EAT Magazine 16-02 March|April 2012

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SilkRoadVictoria @silkroadtea

Since 1992 we’ve been creating the world’s finest, freshest, organic teas, skin and body products.

It all started in Victoria’s Historic Chinatown, with a passion for premium quality ingredients and exceptional customer service, an eco-friendly approach and a commitment to our communityvalues which continue to be just as important to us today as they were when we started.

Thank you for all your support over these years. We are looking forward to celebrating with you!

silkroadtea.com 1624 Government St. Victoria Chinatown

Tapas

Concierge Desk 06

Epicure At Large 08 Food Matters . . . . . . . . . .09 Meet the Chef 10 (Okanagan edition . . . . . .46)

Top Shelf . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Good For You 12 Get Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Eating Well for Less 22 Reporter 24 Wine + Terroir . . . . . . . .38 Liquid Assets 40 Wine & Food Pairing . . .42 News from around BC . .43 Chefs’ Talk 47

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Editor in

Chief

Gary Hynes

Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman, Online DRINK Editor Treve Ring Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg Okanagan Contributing Editor Claire Sear

Community Reporters

Nanaimo: Karma Brophy, Tofino | Uclulet: Jen Dart, Vancouver : Anya Levykh, Okanagan: Claire Sear, Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet, Comox Valley: Eli Blake Web Reporters

Deanna Ladret, Ellie Shortt, Susan Evans, Treve Ring

Contributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Jen Dart, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Tracey Kusiewicz, Anya Levykh, Ceara Lornie, Denise Marchessault, Sandra McKenzie, Michaela Morris, Julie Pegg, Genevieve Laplante, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Elizabeth Smyth, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Caroline West

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark. Advertising: 250 384 9042, editor@eatmagazine ca Mailing address: Box 5225, Victoria,

Cover photography: “Fry Day” by Michael Tourigny

When the winter rains have been falling for seemingly weeks on end, I like to travel I get tired of hunkering down, cooking stews and chopping firewood for the woodstove. I long for a change of scenery and some fresh inspiration and new tastes Some of you might jet off to Hawaii or Mexico Others could take a big boat cruise with their all you can eat buffets But for me, it’s all about the food I like to take my winter break in San Francisco, birthplace of the locavore move ment and, to many, the food capital of North America. Why?

The food scene is busy, vibrant, and creative, there’s often blue skies and it’s about ten degrees warmer, flights are cheap and short (about two hours), and no pesky time zone change all make San Fran my go to getaway.

This year was no different Destination San Francisco called and I answered My four days were a whirlwind of bleeding edge restaurants, comforting and classic cafes and plenty of shopping (food and wine). Both wine and food prices are less expensive and without the heavy hand of the BC liquor laws you can afford to trade up a level or two when choosing a wine from a restaurant wine list.

My plane landed at SFO at 3:30pm and by 6:10 I had checked into my hotel and was seated cozily in Barbacco Eno Trattoria, sipping a flute of Sorelle Bronca Prosecco The seating is communal, the dishes eclectic. I chose from a menu of piccoline (tiny), in vasetto (in a jar I could happily nosh on the spreadable smoked Calabrian salame softened with lardo daily for the foreseeable future ), inizio (starter), piedi e ali (feet & wings), dal grano (from wheat), and a lato (sides). The polpette (Sicilian meatballs with raisins and pine nuts) were so good

Another night it was the eye opening Sons & Daughters This tiny restaurant near Union Square has an open kitchen and is at the forefront of re envisioning California cuisine The restaurant has a 1 acre, 32 box garden, greenhouse, and orchard located outside the city that provides the restaurant with a huge variety of flowers, micro greens, herbs, vegetables, and fruit. Among the dishes I loved were the Foie Blood Orange Oats Geranium (course one) and the Abalone Burdock Castelvetrano Dill (course three). You might think theses combinations odd from reading the menu but they fit deliciously together to create flavours I had never thought possible

Much of the restaurant and shop action has moved to the grittier Mission district where rents are cheaper. I visited Tartine Bakery (think Fol Epi with long line ups) and Bi Rite Market, the amazing grocer y store that apparently was the inspiration for Whole Foods Producing serious food in a casual room Commonwealth is redefining the concept of what a restaurant should be. It was named one of the ten best restaurants in the USA in 2011 If you go, don’t miss the Jerusalem Artichoke Onion cooked in Hay Quinoa Chickweed Quail Egg combination Both Commonthweath chef Jason Fox and Sons & Daughters chefs Matt McNamara and Teague Moriarty have been influenced by the new genius of California cooking David Kinch of Manresa in Los Gatos

There were other excellent noshes and so many more possible stops but after four days I was sated and happy to get back to soggy BC, our lovely local food scene and the upcoming spring growing season energized and invigorated

Gary Hynes, Editor

I wish you all good eating (and traveling)

True to the region it’s from, one of gentle rolling hills, warm summer days and cool evening breezes, comes a lush velvety Shiraz of incomparably true character. FOR AVAILABILITY

MARCH

2012 VANCOUVER PLAYHOUSE INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL

The Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival is one of the biggest and oldest wine events in the world, offering something for every level of wine drinker, collector and trade professional. Winery principals (winemaker, proprietor, senior executive) from selected wineries and countries will be in attendance to pour and discuss their wines from Feb 27 Mar 4

GROWING FOOD IN THE CITY ROYAL ROADS COURSE

If you are concerned about where your food comes from, what’s in it (or on it), or sim ply getting the best nutrition possible for your family growing your own vegetables and fruit is the answer In this unique and timely course you will learn essential per maculture and organic gardening techniques. This practical, hands on course is open to everyone, no prior education or gardening experience required Mar 3 Sep 22 (www royalroads ca/continuing studies)

ARTISAN COFFEE PAIRING MENU AT DEERHOLME FARM

Bill Jones will be working with Drumroaster Coffee to create a menu that showcases the flavour and creativity of premium coffee beans from a variety of origins Dishes will include an Island Aged Farmhouse cheese ball with an espresso balsamic syrup and a Coffee cured Sockeye salmon gravlox with marinated king oyster mushroom, fresh herb salad $90/person (plus HST) Call 250 748 7450 for more information Duncan, Mar 10 5 9pm (www deerholme com)

PICA SPRING BREAK TEEN CULINARY BOOT CAMP

Spring break teen camp 2012 is all about learning the basics in Culinary, Baking & Pastry Arts Teens will learn the importance of proper food (Food Safe) and equipment handling, knife skills and cleanliness in the kitchen while cooking and enjoying their class creations. Includes all supplies and ingredients and Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts' logo apron Vancouver, Mar 12 16 $450

PACIFIC RIM WHALE FESTIVAL GALA DINNER AND SILENT AUCTION

Chef Nick Nutting and the kitchen brigade at the Wickaninnish Inn cook up some magic, as wine pairings and tempting silent auction items complement the evening for this 14th annual fundraising (and fun raising) event 100% of the ticket cost and silent auction proceeds support the volunteer fueled Whale Festival, now in its 26th year! Tickets for the dinner and wine pairing are an amazingly great value at $110/person Tofino, Mar 15 (www.wickinn.com)

ALM WORKSHOPS

The ALM Organic Farm (Sooke, BC) is offering a great series of spring workshops: Salad Throughout the Seasons on Mar 19, an Edible/Medicinal Herb Walk on Mar 20, Grow Amazing Tomatoes on Mar 26, and Plant Propagation on Apr 16 Classes are $40 $55 per person For complete class details and to register, visit www almfarms org

CULINAIRE

The third annual Culinaire event will provide Victorians the opportunity to savour signature menu items and inspired dishes from an abundant selection of restaurants, lounges, pubs, cafes, specialty food producers, and sip from a fine selection of local and regional wines and craft beers. Proceeds benefit the annual scholarship program at Camosun College’s Culinary Arts Program Mar 22 For full event details and a cur rent list of who will be presenting visit www culinairevictoria com

A TASTE OF ARGENTINA AT PAPRKIA BISTRO

Wine pairing dinner featuring wines from Argentina Mar 27 $35 per person For more information, contact Geoff Parker geoff@paprika bistro com

6TH ANNUAL DINING OUT FOR LIFE

On Mar 29, restaurants across Vancouver Island will donate 25% of their food rev enues to AIDS Vancouver Island Vancouver Island support for Dining Out For Life continues to grow, alongside the Vancouver and Whistler areas, as do the numbers of participating restaurant. Visit www.diningoutforlife.com for a list of participating restaurants

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead the concierge desk by Rebecca Baugniet For more events visit www eatmagazine ca

APRIL

FRENCH WINE SCHOLAR COURSE

Take your passion for French wines to a new level with an in depth 8 week course that explores the history and terroir of French wine regions Students will have the op portunity to taste many unique wines not currently available on the island and the op tion to write a final exam to become a certified French Wine Scholar. This class is ideal for anyone currently pursuing Sommelier or WSET Diploma designations Classes run for nine weeks Mondays in Vancouver and Wednesdays in Victoria from Apr 2 or Apr 4 (www winecollege ca, www frenchwinesociety org or call/email Mark Shipway mshipway@aii.edu 1 800 667 7288 to register)

CALIFORNIA WINE FAIR 2011

Now in its 31st year of touring across Canada, the 2011 California Wine Fair boasts 350 wines from 100 wineries throughout the Golden State All under one roof, the range of wines includes products currently available in the market to new vintages and va rietals that have yet to be released in the Canadian market 600 guests sample wines, and bid on silent auction items including many of the hard to find wines featured at the tasting. Apr 18 at the Vancouver Trade and Convention Centre. $65. (www artsclub com/events)

KAMLOOPS WINE FESTIVAL

Celebrate wine in all kinds of ways! The Kamloops Wine Festival (Apr 5 13) will host seminars, tastings, and special dinners paired with excellent wines will be featured at many of the best local restaurants. The festival culminates with the Consumer Wine Tasting at the Kamloops Convention Centre on Apr 13. More details to follow closer to the event (www kag bc ca)

UNCORK YOUR PALATE

A very special evening of wine, food and music at Victoria’s historic Crystal Garden, to benefit the Victoria Conservatory of Music Participating restaurants and caterers will serve a sampling of hors d’oeuvres and appetizers, paired with fine wines from the Naramata Bench Wineries. Meet the winemakers and be the first to taste Naramata’s Spring Release wines Bid on wines and other exciting packages at the silent and live auctions Apr 26 Tickets: $95 Tickets will be available online at TicketRocket at tick etrocket org/Uncork and at the Victoria Conservatory of Music 250 386 5311 Toll free 1 866 386 5311. (www.vcm.bc.ca/calendars/uncork your palate)

OTTAVIO ANNUAL BIG CHEESE CUT

Come see the kitchen boys and girls of Ottavio cut the largest wheels of cheese made in the world today Watch as they crack, cut and slice their way through the world’s oldest cheeses Learn about the animals and families that have produced these beau ties for generations Taste the history and tradition of the cheese making craft They will be starting with some smaller wheels of artisan cheeses from Quebec and move through to the Italian king, Parmigiano Reggiano, and up to the 225 kg behemoth, the organic, Swiss mountain Emmenthal Samplings and specials on all cheeses cut A great free event for the whole family Apr 28 11 30 am 1pm

APRIL

ANNUAL LUND SHELLFISH FESTIVAL

From May 26 28, the shores of Lund Harbour are transformed into an outdoor fes tival boasting food vendors selling a variety of freshly cooked oysters, clams, mussels, prawns, and other delights. Festivities include a Chowder Challenge, live music, craft booths, shellfish sales, art shows, free cooking demonstrations, BC’s Best Oysters Com petition, contests, and kids’ play area Sign up for a cruise of the nearby islands or a clam dig at Savary Island Lund’s Shellfish Festival is handicap accessible and all waste is recycled (no garbage is produced). More information is available at www.lundbc.ca.

at large by Jeremy Ferguson

Rhubarb Days

Ignored and misunderstood down through the ages, it’s time for rhubarb to take centre stage.

Any day now, take a peek out the window. If there’s rhubarb, it’s jumping out of the ground like a weed In our garden, it billows aggressively among timber bamboo, New Zealand flax and purple azaleas, a gangling, oversized mop of leaves on cherry red stilts. Rhubarb has always been a wallflower.

If anyone has ever said anything brilliant or memorable about it, you tell me Unlike spinach or broccoli, it hasn’t been treated as worthy of abuse. Rhubarb originated in Asia, probably northern China The Chinese lumped it in with medicines and for 6,000 years relegated it to the unromantic role of purgative

It reached the West about 2,000 years ago, its name bearing further insult: it derives from the Latin Rhabarbarian, or “Rha of the Barbarians,” the river of the barbarians who cultivated it The Romans accepted rhubarb with little enthusiasm, and not even the normally verbose Pliny had anything cunning to say about it

Yet it was as good a traveller as any The intrepid Marco Polo noticed the Chinese exporting it. The Arabs and Persians imported it and were the omnivorous Chinese having missed the point the first to cultivate it as food It reached Western Europe by the Middle Ages, but as a dried root, probably used as a demon repellant Europe had no clue it could be eaten or even what it looked like in its natural form.

When the Spaniard Magellan circumnavigated the world, his chronicler, the sublimely named Antonio Pigafetta, wrote that he had found it in Siam and that it was “a large, rotted tree” whose “wood is the rhubarb ” Pigafetta ran with this nonsense: “Twenty or twenty five men gather together,” he waxed, “and they go into the forest, and when night falls, they climb into the trees, as much to catch the scent of the rhubarb as fear of the lions, elephants and other wild animals ”

The English, of all people, were the first to contemplate eating it, even if they started with the leaves But rhubarb leaves contain oxalic acid, rendering the plant thoroughly unpalatable and theoretically deadly The 19th century cleric Augustus Hare, punished for succumbing to the “carnal indulgences” of a lollipop, was forced to consume a mix of rhubarb and soda

The plant as we know it arrived in Europe and the Americas between 18l5 and 1830 The French sniffed at it. Dumas did not even mention it in his Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine The astute Larousse Gastronomique was positively dim witted when it grudg ingly acknowledged “some species cultivated as food plants ” During World War I, Americans consumed its leaves as a vegetable supplement; there were many poison ings

The French still haven’t much to do with it. The English, the Scandinavians, the Dutch and the Germans do, and the Italians use it to concoct an aperitif, the bitter sweet Rabarbaro Zucca, a rhubarb flavoured bitter The U S contribution is the annual Rhubarb Festival, held every May, deliriously, in Intercourse, Pennsylvania.

Nowadays rhubarb can get by on healthiness: the tender, sour stalk is a magic wand of phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, iron and vitamins. Along with such elixirs as garlic and fatty fish, it has been revealed as a cholesterol exorcist It contains only 16 calories per 100 grams, as long as you forget the alps of sugar we heap on it

Yet somehow, we haven’t really given rhubarb a stellar turn. It has to be more than the lower half of a strawberry rhubarb pie Instead of smothering it in sugar, we should embrace its sour disposition and turn it to our advantage

What would you say to a rhubarb margarita? Or rhubarb soup? What of tart rhubarb sorbet as a palate clearer? Or a sauce for fowl, game birds, veal, venison, pork and better still, a fatty roast duck?

In a day or two, I’ll plunder the garden in pursuit of slender, tender, pink young stalks with aromatic, delicate tasting flesh (Don’t leave it until the last: older, thicker stalks display a coarse, watery consistency and formidable acidity levels). I’ll pick it all: the surplus freezes well, a sharp tasting treat for the dull winter months

My wife chef to my bumbling busboy goes local, smoking a rack of Tannadice Farms pork from the Comox Valley in her Delta, B C made Bradley Smoker and saucing it in rhubarb to counter the sweetness of the flesh But I like it best when she partners it with lightly seared, pan fried Quebec foie gras. Does she know how to balance the acid: she bathes the rhubarb in ice wine And the wallflower turns into a

epicure

Well-Oiled

Seldom are there fewer than a dozen culinar y oils in my pantr y. On hand currently are five olive oils a fruity Spanish one, a zippy New Zealand drop, one from California’s Olive Pit, an organic lovely from Australia and a coveted extra virgin first pressed vintage Tuscan oil from Laudemio Add to the inventory hazelnut oil, walnut oil, lobster oil and, to the abhorrence of Gordon Ramsay and other noted chefs (were they to know), truffle oil Also in the portfolio, tea and grapeseed oils for their high smoke point, canola oil and, finally, an everyday good quality olive oil

Never one for margarine, commercial salad dressings or butter (save non salted, high quality French, or local artisan made butters), I nurture a passion for flavourful salad and cooking oils As well as being packed with intense flavours, many culinary oils are cholesterol and heart friendly, too (Calorie counters should take note, however They all clock in around a hundred units per tablespoon )

Olive oil, the study of which can be as intricate as learning about wine, varies immensely in quality and flavour far too involved to discuss in this space As well, production can be subject to nefarious dealings (I refer here to the trade in adulter ated olive oil. [“Slippery Business,” The New Yorker, August 13, 2007.] While some steps have been taken to curb the illegal trade, it does continue )

So I’ll keep it simple. Basic olive oil should taste clean, not too viscous and be low in acidity Spanish or Greek oils are often fine value for ever yday use Ten dollars rewards me with a litre of oil enough for several weeks’ cooking for two. I find little need to lug a three litre tin home from the shop unless I plan to chuck it into the pot by the cupful. I shell out, instead, for two or three small bottles of artisan “finishing” oils a tangy herbaceous one for greens, a viscous and peppery one for drizzling on tomatoes, vegetables and cheeses and robust oil for napping wild mushroom pastas or grilled meats

For Caesar salad, I cut virgin olive oil with canola or sunflower oil. I find an all olive oil dressing too heavy Just like tasting wine, however, it’s each to their own To help with your preferences and opinions, seek advice from a reputable vendor. Gourmet shops should have knowledgeable staff and offer olive oil samples Attending an olive oil seminar/tasting is worth every penny. If you intend to infuse olive oil with herbs, chilis or citrus peel, ensure those ingredients are completely bone dry to avoid bacte ria growth. I advise against garlic infused oil due to the bulb’s tendency to turn oil quickly rancid

Hazelnut (filbert) and walnut oils are the Chanel of salad oils and priced accord ingly Gleaned from the roasted nut, these oils are rich and, of course, beautifully nutty yet delicate Fortunately, as with expensive perfume, less is more Dabbing these essences on a humble cream of cauliflower soup, a salad of baby arugula and radicchio, roasted golden beets or into cookie and cake batters adds an exquisite nuance These oils are also recommended for drizzling over grilled fish and meat as well as pasta, though I stay mostly with olive oil for this fillip

The chemical compound 2,4 dithiapentane, when mixed with olive oil, emulates the earthy taste of truffle Hence the disdain from Gordon Ramsay and contempo raries who feel such laboratory fiddling demoralizes the noble nugget and because too many resort to splashing the stuff willy nilly over ever ything Labelling the concoction truffle oil merely adds insult to injury Hastening to the fridge to inspect my black and white truffle oils, I read that they are “infused with real truffles” (which is what you need to look for in addition to the eye popping price tag) I will continue to curl up in front of a movie with truffle oil anointed popcorn, but can at least do it now guilt free.

No chemical tricks exist in the production of Vancouver based Olive and Ciboulette lobster oil. Cannery chef Frederic Couton processes “Nova Scotia lobster, vegetable oils, herbs and spices” into beautiful essence of lobster I love to toss a wee bit over a seafood chowder or bisque.

Most specialty oils are best used sparingly and stored in the fridge (the lobster oil gets the freeze) to avoid spoilage. They cloud over but soon clear at room temperature. I’ve been thinking of adding coconut oil to my portfolio, and perhaps avocado or possibly pumpkin seed, or even pistachio, that is if I can find room in my fridge.

Check out www tourangelle com for a very fine array of artisan oils More information on lobster oil can be found at www.oliveciboulette.com.

Devour’s Jena Stewart

For the past three years,

has been one of Victoria’s best kept culinary secrets She has a devoted clientele, but with room for only 12 to 14 diners inside and four more outside when the weather permits, fans of Stewart’s cooking are torn between keeping Devour a secret and raving about her culinary magic

“I wanted to create a small restaurant which would allow a different menu daily Equally important was to insure quality as well as to get to know the majority of our customers really well ”

I caught up with her in New Mexico, where she was enjoying a well earned winter vacation, and asked her how she got started

“In a butcher baker establishment in a small Ontario town at age 12 It was work ing there, in this German eatery, that I found my love of scratch baking and the art of butchery I discovered my passion for food at a young age ”

Stewart studied at Dubrulle International Culinar y Arts in Vancouver and The Culinary Arts School of Ontario in Mississauga before working in numerous kitchens over the years She cites time spent working in kitchens at D’Jango in Philadelphia, the Art Gallery of Ontario and Sooke Harbour House as highlights prior to opening Devour

“They were all inspiring and wonderful places to cook; however, I have to say my favourite place was cooking on a woodstove at a fishing/hunting resort on the Naramata Bench,” Stewart explains, adding, “I’m inspired and influenced by passionate people who I can collaborate with to create interesting and delicious dishes. It takes more than one person to put food on the plate ”

Another passion for Jena Stewart is teaching “Combining cooking and teaching is definitely in my future!” she says with enthusiasm

Chef Stewart’s cooking philosophy is based on fresh, local and seasonal sources, and Devour’s walls are lined with cookbooks from various cultures. The daily menu featuring half a dozen main items reflects this international approach and always includes a vegetarian dish I’ve enjoyed the Moroccan chicken stew with phyllo flake, halibut ceviche on endive, braised short ribs and grilled flatiron steak topped with Stilton cottage cheese The soups and sandwiches are always a treat My favourite lunch items are the brie bacon pesto sandwich and the duck salad rolls Stewart’s desserts and baking are delicious and adventurous too. Don’t miss the pecan praline ice cream sandwich, the cherry ricotta tart and the lemon polenta cake Her lemon strawberry muffins are addictive

“I try to challenge myself daily to find and use ingredients that are not common,” Stewart explains “I find myself constantly researching and reading to learn as much as I can about different cuisines A dream is to travel and explore different areas of the world so I can expand my knowledge and experience Owning a restaurant makes that difficult! One day ” 762 Broughton Street, Victoria, BC (250) 590 3231 www devour ca

chef Jena Stewart’s tiny, Broughton Street bistro, Devour,

Her tiny bistro delivers big, bold flavours and uncommon ingredients.

chef profile by Joseph Blake

R e b e c c a W e l l m a n

good for you — by Pam Durkin

The Breakfast Club

Does B.C. stand for best cereal?

Unfortunately, not all breakfast cereals are worth breaking your fast for. If that cereal flake you’re eating is derived from a genetically modified grain, contains toxic pesticide residues or is chock full of refined sugar and artificial flavours and colours, it’s hardly healthy whole grain or not The Cornucopia Institute, an American non profit organization, recently tested several brands of cereal and found many contained high levels of GMOs (genetically modified organisms) and residue from organophosphate pesticides Surprisingly, some of the worst offenders were brands that market themselves as “healthy” and “all natural,” like Kashi (owned by Kellogg’s) and Barbara’s

So how do you find a truly healthy cereal and reap the benefits of regular cereal consumption? If you live in B C , the answer is simple buy local Several savvy B C companies are producing some of the healthiest and tastiest cereals on the market Here are my top picks (in no particular order)

Holy Crap Despite the interesting moniker, the taste of this gluten free, 100% organic blend of chia, hemp, buckwheat, dried fruit and cinnamon made on the Sunshine Coast is reminiscent of apple pie and so delicious you’ll forget just how healthy it is The tasty melange is protein and fibre rich and is an excellent source of heart healthy omega 3 fatty acids. In addition, mounting scientific evidence suggests chia, a chief component of the blend, can help reduce blood pressure and pro inflammatory C reactive protein www holycrap ca

New World Natural Food’s Organic Fruit Nut Muesli I’ve always thought of muesli as the ultimate “comfort food ” This Burnaby version of the famous Swiss cereal is particularly scrumptious. It is a highly nutritious, 100% organic mix of oats, raisins, flax, nuts and seeds Every ingredient is health enhancing Oats, for instance, can help you lower your cholesterol and blood sugar and reduce your risk for heart disease and cancer Traditionalists recommend soaking muesli overnight in butter milk, and I concur. The tang of the buttermilk marries perfectly with the sweetness of the grain and raisins, rendering a healthful concoction that is the perfect start to any day www newworldfoods ca

The Granola King’s Gourmet Granola The quintessential West Coast break fast gets modernized by the King’s royal treatment. If you’ve shied away from gra nola because of its tendency to be overly greasy and a tad too sweet, you need to try this crunchy blend from North Vancouver’s Granola King Each 750 gram bag contains less than a third of a cup of unpasteurized honey and less than a third of a cup of sunflower oil And while there’s less sweetener and oil there’s a lot more heart healthy organic oats, unsulphured coconut, dried fruits, nuts and seeds. And delightfully, a smidgen of unsulphered blackstrap molasses to give this granola that flavourful crunch we all love www thegranolaking com

Nature’s Path Smart Bran with Psyllium This cereal is so therapeutic it almost warrants a prescription. But unlike most things “medicinal” it’s oh so easy to get down. Most bran cereals have a texture and taste akin to sawdust but Nature’s Path, whose home office is in Richmond, has formulated an exception to the rule These slightly sweet, crunchy little nuggets have a malt like flavour that combined perfectly with the milk and medjool dates I paired them with The combination of organic oat and wheat bran with psyllium husk fibre is indeed a smart and strategic breakfast that can help lower your cholesterol, treat constipation, regulate blood sugar and aid weight control www naturespath com

Anita’s Ancient Grains This wheat free cereal, made in Chilliwack, is chock full of disease fighting whole grains, seeds and fruit. And while it isn’t gluten free, the only gluten it contains comes in the form of spelt and kamut, two ancient grains with a much simpler form of gluten than wheat Many wheat intolerant individuals find they can enjoy spelt and kamut without any GI disturbances That’s good news because both of these ancient grains are loaded with powerful antioxidants that can help knockout chronic diseases such as heart disease and cancer. I enjoyed this paired with vanilla yogurt for breakfast and as a key ingredient in a delicious apple crumble www anitasorganic com

Fab Favas

They’re the essence of spring when popped from

Fresh fava beans are a spring treat with a sweet taste and a butter y texture Known throughout history as the “poor man’s meat,” they are packed with protein, fibre and iron Almost ever y countr y around the world has a unique way of fixing favas. Ancient Romans adored them and con sidered them an aphrodisiac (Their name comes from the Italian word fava, meaning “broad bean ”) They are still a beloved Italian ingredient, paired with pecorino cheese, escarole, artichokes, pancetta or other favourite Italian ingredients in pasta and seafood dishes, soups and salads Favas are widely consumed across Europe, the Middle East, Latin America and Asia Check out Italian, Iranian, Egyptian, Greek, Portuguese, Mexican and North African fava bean recipes.

March is the time to plant fava beans for a June harvest The plants are easy to grow, although they do attract aphids As long as you commit to a daily aphid squishing schedule, you can grow them successfully Fresh favas are a rare commodity in our region In March, Fairway Market on Quadra Street and the Root Cellar on McKenzie Avenue carry California grown beans; in June and July Fairway sells favas grown on the Mainland Scour local farmer’s markets in June and July for fresh fava pods You’ll need about two pounds of pods to get approximately two thirds of a pound of fresh shelled beans.

These broad beans grow inside long, pale green pods. Harvest or purchase svelte pods containing pea size beans Bulging pods that are bursting at the seams wil contain bitter, mealy tasting beans To prepare them, string the pods, remove the beans, blanch them in salted water for a minute, and pinch off their waxy skins

Frozen favas are widely available and can be substituted for fresh in any recipe Canned cooked favas are convenient for making dishes such as fava pâté (a Lebanese dip similar to hummus) and fava bean pesto. Dried favas must be soaked overnigh before use.

The best way to enjoy the ultimate in fresh fava flavour is to grow them yourself, so you can eat the tender young things raw, tossed in vinaigrette They taste like the essence of spring

Fava Bean Andouille Sausage Relish

This relish is a component of Emeril Lagasse’s Herb Crusted Catfish with Tomato Fennel Vinaigrette (see foodnetwork com)

1 Tbsp olive oil

1 cup chopped andouille sausage

1/4 cup chopped onions

1 cup fresh (or frozen and thawed) fava beans, blanched and peeled

1/4 cup peeled, seeded, chopped Italian plum tomatoes

1 Tbsp minced garlic

1 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantro

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a large pan, heat oil over high heat Add sausage and cook, stirring, until browned Add onions and cook, stirring, 2 minutes Add beans, tomatoes, garlic and cilantro, and sauté, stirring and shaking the pan occasionally, until beans are tender. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat.

Left to right: Francois Boule sous, David Mincey owner, Stephen Drolet chef, Lindsay Walker Diningroom manager, Paige Robinson owner, Katelyn Schoen, Tracy Nesom, Chris Stephens (missing: Carling Battistuzzi)

What was on your food and wine radar last year? Did you spot a trend? Did a new restaurant, wine or beer catch your attention? Who was your food hero this year? Was there a website, tweeter or blogger that helped give you a deeper insight into the food world? In other words, what were your Exceptional Eats! of 2011?

To get the skinny on the gist EAT staff worked long into the night to come up with 42 questions designed to reflect the year that was Then, on January 1st the virtual voting booth opened for a month When the voting ended we tallied the results and organized them into four groups: eating in, eating out, drinking and, lastly, giving credit to those who inspired us Turns out we are a loyal and

let ’ s eat out

Re staurant Cooking Local Camille’s (VICTORIA)

Edible Canada (VANCOUVER)

RauDZ Regional Table (OK ANAGAN)

If it’s in season and local, it’s on the menu This eatery celebrates local ingredients on a grand scale.

Re staurant of the Year

Brasserie L’ecole (VICTORIA) Hawkswor th (VANCOUVER)

Local Lounge & Grille (OK ANAGAN)

It’s the best restaurant in the city Bar none In every way, every time the best food, ser vice, and ambience. End of discussion.

Awesome

Plate of the Year

Steak Frites w/ red wine & shallot sauce & Roquefor t butter Brasserie l'école (VICTORIA)

Wine marinated lamb popsicles in fenugreek cream curry on turmeric and spinach potatoes Vij’s (VANCOUVER)

Tie: Okanagan Cherry Spare Ribs (Local Lounge) |

Blackened Prime Rib (Ricardo’s Mediterranean Kitchen) (OK ANAGAN)

You are still dreaming of it, pining for it, talking about it

What restaurant dish made that lasting impression?

competitive bunch and many results were close and in some instances a tie had to be declared Due to space availability, we could only publish the top picks the gold plated winners in the magazine But the top award winners don’t reflect the whole picture so we decided to publish the runner ups online (To see the complete list of winners, go to the EAT website at eatmagazine ca )

We think readers chose a glorious group and I, for one, will be very busy in 2012 using this list as a guide to many new and wonderful eating and drinking experiences In our opinion there were no losers only winners as we all win by shining the spotlight on a vibrant local food community

Place for Lunch

Devour (VICTORIA) Meat & Bread (VANCOUVER) The Bench Market (OK ANAGAN)

Lunch is not really about replenishing energy to get on with the workday It is an event and an excellent one at that.

Not Downtown

Bistro at Merridale Cider (VICTORIA)

The Pear Tree (VANCOUVER) Ricardo’s Mediterranean Kitchen (OK ANAGAN)

If you live in a big city, pick an eatery outside of your city center that’s wor th a special trip

Dish Under $10

Hernande'z Cocina (VICTORIA)

La Taqueria (VANCOUVER)

Mad Mango Cafe (OK ANAGAN)

Max $10 and delicious and well made not too much to ask, is it?

Feeding Car t Frenzy

Red Fish Blue Fish (VICTORIA) Japadog ( VANCOUVER) Jeffer’s Fr yzz (OK ANAGAN)

Great street food has never been easier to find At what food truck did you have a really amazing feed?

Place For Heathy Eating

Rebar (VICTORIA)

The Naam (VANCOUVER) Poppadoms (OK ANAGAN)

Rich foods abound these days

Where do you go to give your body a break, somewhere the food is both healthy and delicious?

Be st Burger

Pink Bicycle (VICTORIA)

Vera's Burger Shack (VANCOUVER) Burger 55 (OK ANAGAN)

From the bar to the bistro and now top billing at a few new hot haunts: the ubiquitous burger Who does it best?

Wine List Smackdown

Stage (VICTORIA) Hawkswor th (VANCOUVER) Local Lounge & Grille (OK ANAGAN)

Do you like it comprehensive, educational, big, or just beautiful? Which restaurant’s wine menu dominates?

Place For Eats & Cocktails

Venteto Tapa Lounge (VICTORIA)

Joey Restaurants (VANCOUVER)

RauDZ Regional Table (OK ANAGAN)

Work is done for the day Now for your re ward? drink (or two) and nibbles. Cinq à sept becomes the happiest hours.

Under The Radar

Daidoco (VICTORIA) Campagnolo Roma (VANCOUVER)

The Real Things Pizza (OK ANAGAN)

Give up the name of that eatery that you adore and yet no one seems to know about.

Keep Your Fork

Brasserie L’ecole (VICTORIA) Cactus Club (VANCOUVER)

Local Lounge & Grille (OK ANAGAN)

Many diners just say no when it comes to desser t But we have plenty of talented pas try chefs working to rise above the tried and true creme brule or molten chocolate cake. Tell us who’s cultivating a more sophisticated sweet tooth?

Be st Place To Eat

Sustainable Seafood Red Fish Blue Fish (VICTORIA) C Restaurant (VANCOUVER) Local Lounge & Grille (OK ANAGAN)

Great restaurants that also ser ve a sustainable catch deser ve an EAT award At stake is the future of our oceans

Place to Feed a Kid

Pizzeria Prima Strada (VICTORIA) White Spot (VANCOUVER) Boston Pizza (OK ANAGAN)

Praise be to the eateries and restaurants that have high chairs and ser vers who get that kids are people who should go out to eat, too

Top Chef

Dan Hayes The London Chef (VICTORIA)

David Hawkswor th Hawkswor th (VANCOUVER)

Tie: Rober t CordonierHillside Bistro, Paul CecconiLocal Lounge (OK ANAGAN)

The dining scene is shining brighter than ever and this chef is a large par t of the reason Name your favourite local chef

Be st Place to Buy Local Food

Place for Grocerie s

Thrifty Foods (VICTORIA)

Whole Foods (VANCOUVER) Quality Greens (OK ANAGAN)

Which grocery store has the selection, the quality, the people and the good vibes that says, We are the best?

Be st Farm

Tie: Madrona Farm & Michell Bros Farm (VICTORIA) Kin’s Farm (VANCOUVER) Harker’s Organics (OK ANAGAN)

They just have the freshest produce! What local farm keeps you coming back for more?

Be st Local Cookbook

Rebar: Modern Food (VICTORIA)

Rebar Modern Food (VANCOUVER)

‘That’s Amore’ From Ricardo’s Kitchen (OK ANAGAN)

When you want a homegrownrecipe for dinner with family, or to make for friends, what book do you turn to?

Be st Locally-Owned (Food Related) Store: Cook Culture (VICTORIA) Gourmet Warehouse (VANCOUVER) The Bench Ar tisan Food Market (OK ANAGAN)

Need a fridge, chef?s knife, tablecloth, bag of beets or coffee? You’re not a fan of big box shopping. Where do you go to buy it?

Be st Sele ction of Spe cialty Foods

Market on Yates ( VICTORIA) Whole Foods (VANCOUVER) Whole Foods (OK ANAGAN)

Bread: one of life’s basic pleasures And you need flour to make bread, right? Whether it’s whole wheat, organic, rye, rice, potato, or buckwheat so many varieties, so many options. Who has the best flour selection in the city?

Be st Local Food Product or Ingredient

Cold Comfor t Ice Cream | Spot Prawns ( VICTORIA)

Terra Breads | Sockeye Salmon (VANCOUVER) Carmelis Goat Cheese | Peaches (OK ANAGAN)

What local food, product or ingredient do you take great pride in introducing your visit ing out of town friends and family to?

let ’ s drink

Ground Control

Caffe Fantastico ( VICTORIA)

For ty Ninth Parallel Coffee Roasters (VANCOUVER) Cherr y Hill Coffee (OK ANAGAN)

We want to know who’s bag of coffee beans you grind at home for your cuppa joe.

Top Barista

Street Level Espresso (VICTORIA)

Caffé Ar tigiano (VANCOUVER) Good Omens (OK ANAGAN)

You bow to the bean and are always on the prowl for the best macchiato, French press or Ethiopian heirloom bean Name your favourite barista (or coffee shop) that keeps you from going cold turkey

What’s Old is New Again

Clive’s (VICTORIA)

Tie: Pourhouse Vancouver | The Diamond (VANCOUVER) RauDZ Regional Table (OK ANAGAN)

Welcome back, gin & tonic; ciao, negroni; bonjours,Sazerac Old school drinks are one of the hot new things on the cocktail scene. Which bar, lounge, or restaurant is doing them right?

The New Alchemists

Shawn Soole - Clive’s (VICTORIA)

Jay Jones MARKET (VANCOUVER)

Gerr y Jobe RauDZ Regional Table (OK ANAGAN)

Place to Buy Pie

Oldfield Orchard (VICTORIA)

Savar y Island Pie Company (VANCOUVER)

Tie: Britannia Pies, Rober t's Fruit Market & Orchard (OK ANAGAN)

Pies Meat pies Glorious fruit pies My, oh my savoury and sweet When you aren’t in the mood to bake your own, where do you go to buy a pie fix? (and don’t say you go to your Mom’s)

Bar tisans (bar tender ar tisans) are coming up with modern, edgy kinds of drinking utopias and putting astonishing ingredients in a glass in new ways

Name your hero/heroine and the bar

Spirited Moment

Victoria Gin (VICTORIA)

Victoria Gin (VANCOUVER) Okanagan Spirits (OK ANAGAN)

Who gets you to raise your glass for making the best local spirit?

The Root Cellar ( VICTORIA) • Granville Island Public Market (VANCOUVER) • Kelowna & Penticton Farmers Market (OK ANAGAN)

Phil Lafreniere, Daisey Orser and Adam Orser at the Root Cellar

Cascadia Liquor (VICTORIA) Firefly Fine Wines and Ales (VANCOUVER)

Tie: Canner y Brewing, Metro Liquor (OK ANAGAN)

Be st Mocktail

Cranberr y Casablanca (Ulla)

GM Sahara Tamarin told EAT it’s made with Silk Road Casablanca tea, organic cranberries & cinnamon syrup (VICTORIA)

Virgin Vanilla Pear Ricky (Refuel) Bar tender Jesse Walters makes it w/ pear purée, lime, vanilla bean & soda (VANCOUVER)

Virgin Peach Bellini (Local Lounge) (OK ANAGAN)

Don’t mock this no alcohol cocktail has come into its own Who has made staying sober a beautiful thing?

Heads Ups

Driftwood Fat Tug IPA (VICTORIA)

Granville Island English Bay Pale Ale (VANCOUVER)

Naramata Nut Brown Canner y Brewing (OK ANAGAN)

Impress your out of town host with a bottle of local beer Name the local brew that has real beer wonks foaming over?

Fruit of Their Labours

Merridale Cider (VICTORIA)

Elephant Island Orchard Wines (VANCOUVER)

Elephant Island Orchard Wines (OK ANAGAN)

Place to Buy

BCL For t & Foul

Liber ty Wine Me (VANCOUVER)

Tie: BC VQA Wine Info Centre, Discover Wines (OK ANAGAN)

Wine You want an excellent selection, a range of prices, and a personable, knowledgeable staff What’s your recommendation?

Top Local Wine

Zanatta (VICTORIA)

Burrowing Owl VANCOUVER)

Sumac Ridge Estate Winer y (OK ANAGAN)

Top Local Beverage

Driftwood Fat Tug IPA (VICTORIA)

Driftwood Fat Tug IPA (VANCOUVER)

Poplar Grove Cab Franc (OK ANAGAN)

This local beverage was, in a word, remark able Be it wine, beer, cider, tea, coffee you name it What really impressed you this year? Tell us what it was and which company made it.

Food/Drink Experience of the Year

Feast of Fields (VICTORIA)

Playhouse Wine Festival (VANCOUVER)

Feast of Fields (OK ANAGAN)

Events, festivals, and seminars on food and drink were everywhere the past year which one really did it for you?

Behind the CounterAward

Ottavio (VICTORIA)

Revolver Coffee (VANCOUVER)

Local Lounge & Grille (OK ANAGAN)

Who impressed you with their amazing customer ser vice this year?

The Foodie’s Foodie Award

EAT Magazine blush… (VICTORIA)

Follow Me Foodie (VANCOUVER)

Jennifer Schell Pigott (OK ANAGAN)

Who do you turn to learn from, keep you in the know or ask advice?

I Eat, Therefore I Tweet

EAT Magazine double blush… (VICTORIA) Scout (VANCOUVER) Vine Vie (OK ANAGAN)

Which food or drink tweeter, hyper local blog, online magazine, app or website is your best friend.

The Next Big Thing

Was there ever any doubt?

Burgers of course. (VICTORIA) Macarons (VANCOUVER) Eating local (OK ANAGAN)

Food fashions come and go Remember blackened fish? Cupcakes? Hibiscus flowers? Is it time for pork to stop hogging the spotlight? Say hello to the next big thing

Worst Trend of 2011

Cupcakes (VICTORIA)

Foam Sauces (VANCOUVER)

Foam Sauces (OK ANAGAN)

New, but simply awful, trend Help us weed it out! What is it?

Leave No Footprint

Red Fish Blue Fish (VICTORIA)

Tie: Vancouver Farmers Markets | Ocean Wise (VANCOUVER)

RauDZ Regional Table (OK ANAGAN)

What business, association or non profit best promotes a sustainable food system?

Cooking Class or School

The London Chef (VICTORIA)

Dir ty Apron (VANCOUVER)

Mission Hill Culinar y Workshops (OK ANAGAN)

Knife skills 101? Advanced pasta making? Bread basics?

The London Chef (VICTORIA)

Hawkswor th (VANCOUVER)

Okanagan Street Food (OK ANAGAN)

Chef Peter Zambri

A lifelong journey in pursuit of a passion for food. This is what drove chef Peter Zambri up through the kitchens of Toronto and Vancouver, into the endless gardens of the Sooke Harbour House, through the bustling cities of Southeast Asia and India, and finally, to his family's native Italy, where he lived and cooked for four years before returning to Vancouver Island.

Peter opened Zambri's Restaurant with his sister Josephine in 1999. Since it's debut, Zambri's has prevailed as one of Victoria's favourite restaurants, while Peter and his team have earned an impressive collection of honours including Best Victoria Restaurant from Vancouver Magazine, and glowing reviews from Zagat, James Barber (The Urban Peasant), The Vancouver Sun and Saveur Magazine.

Peter's palpable charisma and energy are evident in his creative delivery of Nor thern Italian country cuisine. He demonstrates the same enthusiasm towards mentoring his younger cooks, through par ticipation in the Island Chef's Collaborative, and involvement in Victoria's newly opened Big Wheel Burger.

With this Lifetime Achievement Award, EAT applauds Peter Zambri for his decades of commitment to mastering the ar t and craft of great food. Here's to many more! Deanna Ladret

BC Bites & Beverages

Explore the history of the food and beverage industry in BC. Purchase one evening event or the full series and save.

Beer | Greg Evans, Brewing Historian | April 26, 2012 Join Greg and local brewers to taste award-winning beers and learn about British Columbia’s brewing history, from pioneers of the Gold Rush to the recent renaissance of craft brewing.

Bounty from the Harvest | Sept 27, 2012

Food from the Home Front | Nov 8, 2012

Treats: Candy & Chocolate | Feb 14, 2013

Traditional First Nations Food | March 21, 2013

Wine & Cheese | May 23, 2013

Tickets available now for members online or at the box office. Public sales begin March 29.

www.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca

#bcbevs

Vancouver Island Peter Zambri (Zambri’s)

Vancouver John Bishop (Bishop’s)

Okanagan Bernard Casavant (Wild Apple)

Peter Zambri

THE EE SPONSORS & DRAW WINNERS

Congratulations to our 40 prize winners. And a big thank-you to all the sponsors who donated such wonderful prizes.

VICTORIA

Aura Water front Restaurant & Patio (2 x $25*) laurelpoint com/dining/aura

Sandi Heal

Blac k Hat (Wagyu Tasting Dinner for Four $250*) theblackhat ca

Ian Yeung

Cafe Brio ($75*) cafe brio com

Bridget Minishka

Canoe Brewpub ($75*) canoebrewpub.com

Sarah Thornton

Cascadia Liquor ($100*) cascadialiquor com

Lori McKenzie

Chateau Victoria (Dinner at Vista 18 and One Night in a Suite) chateauvictoria com

Elissa Frankham

Cook Culture ($200*) cookculture com

Mackenzie Wheeler

Flavour Restaurant (3 course dinner for two $250*) 590 7787

Barbara Kahlo

Hotel Grand Pacific (One night stay and dinner for two in t he Mark) hotelgrandpacific com

Karen Symmes

Lifestyle Market ($50*) lifestylemarkets com

Tony Cheong

London Chef (2 Interactive Classes*) thelondonchef com

Stephen Lee

Lure at the Delta Victoria ($100*) lurevictoria com

Robin Gary Hicks

Mattic ks Farm VQA ($30*) matticksfarm com

Lynne Carlson

Niagara/Fair field Grocer y ($50* & Gif t Basket) getfreshwit halocal com

Diane Maclachlan

Ooh La La Cupcakes (3 x$30*) oohlalacupcakes ca

Jayne Embree

Root Cellar Village Green Grocer ($75*) www therootcellar ca

Jess Howard

Silk Road (Tea Cocktails & Mocktails Work shop $250*) silkroadtea com

Glen Campbell

Slaters Meats ($25*) 250 592 0823

Lisbet Rygnestad

Village Butc her ($25*) thevillagebutcher ca Tanya Kirkland

Wannawafel (2 x $25) wannawafel com

E B Klassen

VANCOUVER

131 Water ($50*) www 131water com

Landon Young

BC Wine Sc hool Voucher for the WSET level

1 Course* bcwineschool com

Melanie Stitt

Browns Restaurant Group ($100*) brownsrestaurantgroup com

T Pipes

Diner No.1 ($50*) www dinerone com

Alan Rae

Edible at the Market ($100*) ediblecanada com/bistro php

Barbara Borchardt

eight 1/2 restaurant lounge ($50*) eightandahalf ca Wing Hui

Joey Restaurants ($100*) joeyrestaurants com

Eddy Tan

Simply West Coast Sauces (10 sauces, t shor t, ball cap) simplywestcoast com

Lonnie Temereski

Teahouse and Seasons in the Park ($100*) vancouverdine com

Marjorie Stevens

OKANAGAN

Benc h Market ($25*) thebenchmarket.com

Valencia Curken Hotel El Dorado (Romance Package) hoteleldoradokelowna com

J Hopper

Joie Farm (Magnum of Rose) joie ca

Tanis Sergeew

Medici's Gelateria ($20*) medicisgelateria ca Jessica Stelkia

Okanagan Street Food ($50*) okanaganstreetfood com

Val Jenner

Pentages (Sauvignon Blanc 08, Gamy 2010, Merlot 2006) pentage com

Kara Price

Poppadoms ($50*) poppadoms ca

Harmonie Basso

RauDZ ($25* + 2 mar tini cars) raudz com/RAUDZ/home html

Stewar t Glynes

Theos Greek Restaurant ($50*) eatsquid com

Alena Zamorano

Tree Brewing ($50*) treebeer com Marilyn Law ton

Water front Wine Bar & Restaurant ($100*) water frontrestaurant ca

*denotes gif t cer tificate value

Eve Layman

Perfectly placed in the South Okanagan

Perfectly placed on rich South Okanagan farmland, Tinhorn Creek overlooks the old gold mining creek that is the winery’s namesake. We are environmental stewards of 150 acres of vineyards: “Diamondback” on the Black Sage Bench, and “Tinhorn Creek” on the Golden Mile Bench. Both provide us with the fruit to craft the superb, terroir driven wine that we’re known for. Our top tier Oldfield Series represents the finest of each vintage.

www.tinhorn.com

Eating Well for Less

by Elizabeth Smyth

Le Petit Dakar | 711 Douglas St. at Belleville | 250 382-0287

Some spice has been added to the Victoria food scene with the arrival of Senegalese cuisine at Le Petit Dakar, across from the bus terminal on Douglas Senegal is on the west coast of Africa and its food incorporates spices and aromatics such as cloves, cayenne and ginger (do order the fresh ginger juice) and ingredients like beans and zucchini

A French colony until 1960, when it gained its independence, Senegalese food still possesses something of a French influence, evident in the Domoda, or Senegalese beef bourguignon, a most basic of stews that may go over well with less adventurous palates and is in fact what my young daughter ate. I preferred the flavour burst of the Yassa au Poulet with Onions, a baked garlic and pepper chicken dish much like jerk chicken and served with a mound of fried onions over rice The vegan black eyed peas, a jaunty pile of beans tumbled with garlic, tomatoes and peppers, is scented with cloves The vegetable curry, like everything else here, contains no processed foods or additives and its vegetable stock is made on site The samosas made me moan aloud flaky pastries stuffed with sweet potato, yam and curry seasoning and punctuated with a surprise of raisins These are the owner Bintou Toure’s top seller and no surprise This small café tucked into the Crystal Garden mainly does take out, with menu items on rotation, so you might not always get the entrées I’ve listed There are three tables if you want to sit down, but it’s very informal just a place for a quick bite While care may not have gone into the décor, because it’s not that kind of place, care has certainly gone into the food. Toure trained at Camosun and has included some vegan and gluten free dishes, so there are many options. She was also sweet about let ting us practice our French

Apple Café | 2031 Store St. | 250-590-6177

Another new kid on the block is the Apple Café, tucked into a new health food store called Ingredients at Store and Discovery This vegetarian café’s mission is to make all food as nutritious as possible My absolute favourite savoury dish was the raw vegan sunflower almond flatbread pizza for $7.50. The base is a brilliant piece of alchemy

pureed almonds and flax dehydrated into a paste and then baked into a toothsome pizza base This is spread with a creamy cashew “cheese,” then topped with a salsa of olives, sun dried tomatoes and yellow peppers The salty olives pair beautifully with the creamy nut paste, and the whole effect is lightened by pea sprouts draped over top

The other hit was the pasta special of Kildara Farm Rotini Alfredo with sheep milk Romano and green salad for $10 The rich, creamy cheese sauce was interspersed with bright, diced tomato, and the side salad included a colourful profusion of sprouts, shaved beets and carrots Many of the foods I tried were both earnest and enticing; a couple were simply earnest but could be easily improved. The quesadilla of cabbage, cilantro, lime and roasted chipotle pepper ($12 with a salad) is made with sprouted rice and germinated pinto beans, two processes that make the foods easier to digest and the protein more accessible A jolt more lime and chipotle will bring this dish out of “earnest” and into “enticing.”

Desserts are inventive. “Almond dream bars” are made with coconut and almond paste and sweetened with xylitol, which is derived from birch bark The raw vegan dark chocolate cheesecake seems to defy gravity; cashews are soaked, sweetened and whipped into a froth that’s piled onto a nutty crust and capped with a fudgy topping This café was only three weeks old when I visited, so the menu is still being adapted and fine tuned; it is certainly worth a visit to see what clever things they may be doing with raw food and to visit the spacious health food store

At Clive’s Classic Lounge, we leave the vegan scene for the meat loving Mad Men scene (though don’t get me wrong you can get a salad.). When you go for lunch, the focus of this report, you get lounge food basics with some quality details And you get to enjoy a soothing, quiet and comfortable atmosphere (again, at lunch, not during its more hopping evening cocktail scene) This is a place to linger and relax into a conversation with a long lost friend. And you can enjoy this privilege for the cost of a $10 meal.

The food is classic, just like the lounge; nothing fancy but tasty A favourite is the Crispy Farmhouse Chicken Sandwich done Italian style, with the chicken fried a dark golden brown, like a good schnitzel It’s topped with basil aioli and a slice of tomato a healthy looking tomato, mind you, not a tragic, limp tomato. This is noteworthy since the sandwich, with its accompanying scoop of coleslaw, is only $9 I hit the jack pot with the daily special, the lamb burger It was an inch thick and extremely juicy

Bintou Toure, owner and chef of Le Petit Dakar. right: Yassa au Poulet

Raw vegan sunflower almond flatbread pizza with raw olives, peppers, cashew cheese, sundried tomato sauce, spinach, tomatoes. Desser t is orange chocolate cake with a lemon macaroon crust.

The smear of blue cheese on top is Roaring 40s Blue from Ottavio’s, a classy touch for a bar basic. This is also $9, including the side of coleslaw; for $3 more, you can get a side of fries or salad I’m wondering if a petition would get this onto the main menu

For those not in a meat mood, the enormous Everything Salad for $11 has standard mixed greens with baby tomatoes, slivered red onions, a quarter of an avocado and pea shoots, tossed with a creamy Dijon dressing. And, of course, you may just be there for a quiet lunch far from the madding crowd, but nothing is stopping you from order ing one of Clive’s famous classic cocktails to go with it I assure you it will be worth the effort

R e b e c c a W e l l m a n

left: Nate Caudle of Clives. ). He made his own Saskatoon berr y liqueur for the Saskatoon Julep pictured above.

West | 881 Granville Street @13th | Vancouver | 604.738.8938

West has long been a benchmark for cutting edge West Coast cuisine, right from its celebrated beginnings when David Hawksworth manned the kitchen. Now Quang Dang, formerly of C Restaurant and Diva at the Met, has moved his EC toque to the place where he started his career (as a junior sous chef) and has re imagined the menu into something that goes well beyond the over sung mantra of “fresh, local, sustainable ”

Transparent brandied truffle gel cuts the salt in and adds richness to a traditional amuse of Kusshi oyster in the half shell topped with Northern Divine sustainable caviar from Sechelt Thiessen Farm quail is marinated in thyme, then grilled and served as a starter with chanterelle tortellini and roasted Brussels sprouts ($18 50) Charred Vancouver Island octopus off the tasting menu ($76 for eight plates) is dressed with barigoule vinaigrette (think artichokes, mushrooms, onions) and sided with marinated vegetables from Pemberton

One of the biggest menu changes is the new collection of smaller sharing plates, available at the bar or in the dining room. These range from a simple, but astounding North Arm Farm beet salad with hazelnuts and parsley pistou ($8) to delicate gnocchi in sage brown butter and parmesan ($9), and barely holding it together braised beef short ribs with red onion marmalade

The menu isn’t the only thing that’s changed The room has been redone, with an ear (excuse the pun) for better acoustics. The noise level is more muted now, thanks to undulating mirrored ceiling panels Fabric covered walls with elaborate leather cut outs mimic the subtle pattern carved into the white Caesarstone tables

And while the white tablecloths may be gone, the service, under Restaurant Manager Brian Hopkins, is still the elegant pas des deux that West is famous for, and is more than matched by Bar Manager David Wolowidnyk’s smooth, barrel aged cocktails and the stellar wine selections (like my Sauvignon Blanc from the Gascon coast) offered by Wine Director Owen Knowlton Other restaurants may be “dining down” to casual, but it’s nice to see that some restaurants are still waving their fine dining and drinking flag with panache.

By Anya Levykh

Chef Quang Dang’s charred Vancouver Island octopus

T r a c e y K u s i e w i c z

Angela

Maida slicing porchetta

Angela Maida is a woman of excellent taste Before I had even tried a single item on the menu of her recently opened Pronto Caffe, I knew I could trust her culinary judgement after she took a provolone sandwich and turned it inside out literally. Okay, only the bun was inside out, but that was enough The soft baguette was not only flipped, but then pesto was added to the new exterior before being stuffed and grilled It made for an incredibly delicious and perfectly textured meal, one I’ve gone back for on several occasions.

Pronto is part of the new culinary mecca that is South Cambie A stone’s throw away from Pied à Terre, Benton Brothers Fine Cheeses, Las Tortas, et al, this licensed café has snuggled itself into the neighbourhood like a cozy bowl of polenta The room is a warm, wood panelled rectangle of comfortable padded booths, gleaming counters and open kitchen.

As for the food, the house specialty is the porchetta, served in a sandwich or as a main with roasted rosemary potatoes The porchetta is made in house, a giant rolled roaster that is hauled out and sliced thick to order For the sandwich, it gets chopped into juicy cubes, effectively distributing the considerable crackling as manageable bites throughout the sandwich The aforementioned provolone is another hit, with its roasted garlic and red pepper filling Daily pasta and main features cover everything from beef fiorentino to linguine with artichokes, asparagus, capers and olives Desserts are also made in house, like the simple but tasty raspberry panna cotta I tried on my last visit

The beer and wine list is equally brief and matches the food well A couple local craft brews and the obligatory Peroni complete the hops list, while the wines (avail able by glass and bottle) cover Italy, Chile, Australia, New Zealand and the U S Every thing is reasonably priced (only one bottle heads over the $40 mark) and of the two Prosecco options, one is Veneto’s organic offering The charcuterie and cheese plates ($9 each) make great sides to a few glasses of Masi’s Campofiorin, and the only thing I’m missing here is a little moscato to go with dessert Maybe a little d’Asti?

By Anya Levykh

eeky Fish Nuets & Duck Fries WITH AIOLI

Doughnut Holes

Recipes and food styling by JENNIFE R DANTE R • Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY • Wine pairing by TREVE RI NG

T h i s i s a c h e e k y d i n n e r , r e a l l y . A f u n o d e t o o u r f a v o u r i t e f i s h + c h i p s , b u t m a d e a t h o m e . M e a t y h a l i b u t c h e e k s ( e a s i e r o n t h e w a l l e t t h a n f i l l e t s ) a r e e n r o b e d i n a n a ir y t e mp u r a c oa t . Th e y de m a n d t o b e eaten with fries! And not just any fries. But fries made richer, bolder and dare I say, even fattier thanks to a dip in duck fat rather than straight-up oil. And to make this meal a triumvirate of deep-fried fun, wind down with explosive jelly-filled doughnut holes.

Chubby Duck Fries

The secret is to cook these plump spuds long and low until they are meltingly tender, then jack up the heat Seems a weird and wrong thing to do, but try it Serves 4

2 large potatoes (I can never get past Yukon Gold for these)

Duck fat*

Fresh thyme sprigs

2 chili peppers (optional)

Sea Salt

Melt duck fat in a non stick frying pan set over low heat At this point, you just want to liquefy the fat, not really heat it Meanwhile, scrub potatoes, then cut (leave peel on) into thick batons. Rinse well, then shake off excess water. If you have extra time, soak the fries in frigidly cold water for 30 minutes.

Arrange potatoes in a single layer or close to that in bottom of pan Be sure they are covered with melted fat If you need, top it up with a trifle of vegetable oil Potatoes tend to stick to the bottom of the pan I had the best success when using a non stick pan

Cook, uncovered, over low heat until potatoes are tender (you can tell because they’ll start to look translucent), 20 to 30 minutes. Be sure to gently stir often to avoid sticking. Increase heat to medium medium high (constantly monitor temperature!) and fry until crispy and deep golden Add a few sprigs of thyme and chilis towards end of cooking (careful the oil will splutter)

Remove fries, as they are done, and place on paper to absorb excess oil. Sprinkle generously with sea salt, then crumble fried thyme leaves overtop

*Local Duck Fat? Can’t vouch for where the poor ducks actually shed the pounds, but you can buy duck fat at local shops such as the Village Butcher, Ottavio or Choux Choux

Cheeky Fish Nuggets

Batter + hot oil really like each other Skin + hot oil don't get on so well Please be care ful! Keep your work area clean, have tongs on hand and baking sheet lined with towels or paper to place hot fish on before you start cooking.

2/3 cup all purpose flour

1/3 cup cornstarch

1 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme

½ tsp salt

Pinch of baking soda

1 egg

1 cup cold soda water

1 lb halibut cheeks

Sea salt and black pepper

Vegetable oil

In a large bowl, stir flour with cornstarch, thyme, salt and baking soda. In a small bowl, whisk egg Stir in soda water, then pour over flour mixture and stir just until blended A few lumps are OK Let batter stand for 10 minutes If batter looks too thick, thin with a little soda or if too thin, stir in a spoonful of flour

Pour oil into a deep heavy saucepan and set over medium heat. If you have a deep fry thermometer, heat to 350F Otherwise, to test readiness, drop a cube of bread into hot oil it should sizzle and turn golden quickly

Generously season halibut cheeks with sea salt and pepper. Working with one piece at a time, dip fish in batter and generously coat Carefully lower into hot oil Repeat with a few pieces of fish don’t overcrowd pan work in batches Cook until batter is light golden and turn occasionally for even browning Blot cooked fish on paper Serve as soon as possible. Dish up with Quick Aioli (see below) and you favourite hot sauce.

Quick Aioli

Stir ¾ cup mayo with 1 Tbsp Dijon. Finely chop 2 green onions and stir in. Squeeze in juice from half a lemon. Taste. Like it? Spice it up with a few dashes of your favourite hot sauce

Explosive Doughnut Holes

These are best eaten slightly warm but can be made a few hours before serving Grab a jar of jelly or jam from your pantry (homemade from summer berries of course!) for the filling if using a chunky jam, be sure to finely chop the bits it will make your life easier! Be generous when filling it's OK if they explode! Makes 20 doughnut holes.

2 cups all purpose flour 3 Tbsp sugar 11/2 Tbsp baking powder Pinches of salt 1 cup whole milk ¼ cup butter, melted 1 egg 2 tsp vanilla extract

Vegetable oil Granulated sugar, for dusting 11/2 cups jam or jelly

1n a large bowl, whisk flour with sugar, baking powder and salt Gently warm milk (you don’t want to boil) and stir in butter until melted In a small bowl whisk egg, then whisk in vanilla Whisk in a little warm milk mixture, then grad ually whisk in remainder. Pour over dry mixture and stir to mix. Batter will be thick.

Pour oil into a deep frying pan and set over medium heat If you have a deep fry ther mometer, heat to 350F Otherwise, to test readiness, drop a little dough into hot oil it should sizzle

Using a spoon, drop balls of batter, about a heaping Tbsp, at a time, into hot oil (be careful!) Do not crowd pan It’s best to work in batches

Fry until dough turns deep golden, 2 to 3 minutes, turning over halfway through cook ing Adjust heat as necessary so oil stays consistently hot To test for doneness, remove a ball Balls should have a crisp crust and the centre should be cooked through to the centre Carefully remove cooked doughnuts balls and let drain on paper While warm, coat holes with sugar.

Fill a piping bag with jam (less chunky the better) Insert pastry tip into each ball and wiggle to create more space Squeeze in jam Reroll in sugar

What to drink?

Chubby, cheeky and explosive? Bring on the beer Go for a flavour packed, fresh and local brew Driftwood White Bark and Hoyner Pilsner come to mind for their pure refreshing character.

Treve Ring

Sea Veggies

Three pioneers of the Island’s edible seaweed industr y are har vesting these unique plants with care and commitment

BY REBECCA BAUGNIET

bull kelp (Nereocystis)

or millennia, coastal inhabitants around the world have included a variety of edible seaweed in their diets For contemporary urban dwellers, however, the only seaweed most of us have ever tasted is nori the dark green, papery sheets used to wrap sushi. The nori that we eat is imported from Asia, where there is a longstanding appreciation for sea vegetables and the manufacturing of seaweed products is highly developed. While the coasts of British Columbia also share a wealth of seaweed (more than 600 identified species according to Bamfield marine botanist Louis Druehl in his book Pacific Seaweeds), sea vegetables remain a largely untapped resource in our kitchens Not only are they incredibly versatile, flavourful ingredients, however Seaweeds also offer unparalleled health benefits through their concentrated supply of minerals (high quality sodium chloride, iodine, iron, calcium and magnesium), nutrients (heart and liver strengthening phytochemicals) and vitamins (A, E, C, B2 and B15)

Here on Vancouver Island, a former salmon fisherman, a politician and a marine biologist are linked by a common dedication to these unique plants. All are pioneers in the Island’s edible seaweed industr y. Each has built their own successful, innovative business around edible seaweeds and are introducing Canadians to more enticing ways to include local sea vegetables into their own diet

Westcoast Seaweed

Brad Carey is the founding owner of Westcoast Seaweed The former salmon fisherman was looking to expand his work season when he started harvesting sea cucumbers and scallops for North Douglas Distributors in 1991 It was there that he was first asked if he could bring in some sea asparagus (salicornia virginica). Carey had never heard of the plant before but figured if it was in the ocean, he’d look for it. His employer explained that what he was looking for wouldn’t exactly be found in the ocean but where there was a mix of fresh and salt water (intertidal marshes) After finding a suitable spot to harvest, Carey discovered that the work complemented the rest of his schedule divers need days on land to “off gas,” and on those days, he could harvest sea asparagus After a few years of harvesting the plant for other distributors, Carey took some time away from the water to complete a few business courses at UVic In 2001, he was ready to launch his own business

Carey’s passion for sea asparagus is obvious he describes himself as a “voice piece for the plant.” “The variety we find off the coasts of B.C. belongs to the same scientific sub family (Salicornioideae) as the plants known as ‘swampfire’ on the east coast of the U.S., ‘sampiere’ in France, and ‘samphire’ in the U.K. It has also been referred to as pickling weed, or sea bean ” Recent research in the Gwaii Haanas Marine Area found evidence that the Haida made intertidal gardens to collect a variety of plants and shellfish, including sea asparagus

Today, it is a specialty food, though Westcoast Seaweed is receiving increased interest from home cooks wanting to experiment with the plant in their own kitchens Sea asparagus can be served fresh, sautéed or pickled It offers a pleasant alternative to other crispy green vegetables such as green beans or asparagus and is a suitable accompaniment to seafood dishes. To reduce its salty flavour, Carey recommends quick blanching (30 45 seconds), warning against overcooking. Eighty percent of the sea asparagus he har vests is sold fresh to restaurants, with between 40 and 50 chefs requesting his product throughout the summer season The plant is harvested from the beginning of June through to the third week of August The remaining 20 percent of his seasonal harvest is either pickled or pre blanched and frozen Westcoast Seaweed products are available in season at restaurants and specialty food shops, or direct from the online store

Outer Coast Seaweeds

Diane Bernard is known by many simply as “the Seaweed Lady.” With a background in criminology, Bernard spent the early part of her career involved in politics. Always a social activist, her focus was on local economic development, and she soon began to study the problems around the way we use our natural resources In 1999, she decided

to apply the lessons she had been teaching to her own life take a wild resource and develop it to its utmost potential (or, in economy speak, “value add”). Seaweed was a natural choice for Bernard, who has roots in both the Magdalen Islands (Îles de la Madeleine) and a small Acadian community in New Brunswick She still feels this strong maritime family influence, and remembers how her aunt would serve favourite seaweed recipes at the family table In 2001, with six local chefs, including then Sooke Harbour House chef Edward Tuson, on board, Diane founded Outer Coast Seaweeds with the goal of providing wild seaweeds for culinary use Her harvest has been served in raw seaweed salads at the Sooke Harbour House, made into pesto and folded into bread at Cooper’s Cove Guesthouse

Bernard cites Nancy Turner, an eminent ethnobotanist at UVic, as an excellent source of knowledge as she was learning about the different plants. She also spent time researching local seaweed in the Royal British Columbia Museum archives. Ten years later, she spouts facts with ease (did you know that the bull kelp found off our coasts is the fasting growing plant on earth? It can grow up to 30 metres in eleven months) She is also a frequent speaker at international algae society meetings

Outer Coast Seaweeds is the first USDA certified organic seaweed company in North America Diane explains how this certification process was unique, as seaweed has a different cell structure from land vegetation Seaweed does not root; it has a holdfast, so there is no exchange of nutrients from the soil and the plant, only between the water and the plant. For this reason, the water must undergo testing on a regular basis. Outer Coast specializes in eight different kinds of edible seaweed, including sea lettuce (ulva), feather boa seaweed ( Egregia menziesii) and winged kelp (Alaria marginata), and has provided seaweed to both the provincial and federal Government House kitchens for special occasions, including the emperor of Japan’s visit in 2009 Outer Coast is also the parent company for Sea Flora, a seaweed based skincare line that Bernard refers to as “food for your skin ” In 2011, the company opened a brand new seaweed processing facility in Sooke

Dakini Tidal Wilds

From May to October you can find Amanda Swinimer in the water har vesting two varieties of kelp winged kelp (Alaria marginata) and bull kelp (Nereocystis) for her home based business, Dakini Tidal Wilds. Winged kelp involves wading in knee to chest deep water at the lowest tides of the moon cycle, while to harvest the bull kelp she must swim offshore Both provide the opportunity for impressive encounters with nature In addition to seeing orcas and stellar sea lions, Swinimer has swum with salmon fry so thick she couldn’t see through the cloud of fish, and multicoloured comb jellies with lights that rippled through them

This will be her 10th season harvesting from the same “garden ” Once harvested, she hangs the kelp to dr y on cedar racks in a garage she has converted to a licensed processing plant. Dr ying seaweed, she explains, is a bit of an art form. You’re really curing it, she tells me, and you need a controlled temperature and constant airflow.

Swinimer combines her knowledge of marine biology with a passion for the traditional use of native plants When I ask her to tell me her favourite way to prepare the seaweed, she tells me of a First Nations method for wrapping salmon in winged kelp before baking The kelp becomes a crispy shell while the fish stays incredibly moist Swinimer harvests 20 kinds of seaweed for her family’s personal use and recommends using winged or bull kelp as a substitute for spinach in a vegetarian or seafood lasagna Dakini Tidal Wild’s winged kelp is used to make the Cowichan Pasta Company’s Wakame Spaghetti and is also ser ved in dishes at Café Bliss Her dried seaweed is available in independent grocery stores throughout B.C., but also directly from her website.

Swinimer, Carey and Bernard all encourage wild harvesting of seaweed, but each one stresses that some knowledge of algae physiology is crucial to sustainable harvesting. In addition, you want to be sure you are har vesting from uncontaminated water Both Outer Coast Seaweeds and Dakini Tidal Wilds offer educational tours and seminars Visit websites for more information

Westcoast Seaweed Inc , 3140 Cook St , Victoria, 250 812 6691, www westcoastseaweed com Outer Coast Seaweeds, 1 877 713 7464, www sea flora com Dakini Tidal Wilds, 250 818 4633 www.dakinitidalwilds.com

Text and food styling by DENISE MARCHESSAULT

Photography by C AROLI NE WEST

fragrant marinated olives with goat cheese E

very Sunday I have guests for dinner 13 if you count the noisy kids I don’t have a table long enough for all of us, so the giggly, lanky ones sit at the table and the adults huddle around the kitchen island and we sip, chat and nibble our way through an array of appetizers until dinner is ready Often, appetizers are the dinner Either way, it’s a loud, disorderly affair that I look forward to each week because I’m enjoying my friends, not fussing over food.

If you like low maintenance entertaining, these simple appetizers just might convince you to open your doors more often: fresh from the oven gougères (pronounced goo zhairs), fragrant marinated olives with goat cheese and beef carpaccio with freshly dressed greens.

Gougères are ingenious little pastries that are light and airy with a sweet and nutty smack of gruyère cheese. Crisp on the outside, almost hollow on the inside, they are delicious served warm, au naturel, or gussied up with a filling of shrimp and dill, curried chicken or smoked salmon to name but a few

Gougères are made from choux (pronounced shoe) pastry or pâte à choux The mixture, more of a sticky batter than malleable dough, is spooned onto a tray or piped from a pastry bag (if you insist on perfectly shaped puffs), and baked I freeze them unbaked and then bake them fresh before guests arrive for an “ohh” and “ahh” appetizer that will have your kitchen smelling like a bakery

Once you’ve mastered choux pastry, you can make all sorts of dangerous treats, including Dauphine potatoes (mashed potatoes mixed with choux pastry and deep fried I warned you), Parisienne style gnocchi, cream filled profiteroles, éclairs and beignets There’s even a choux based cake, Gâteau St Honeré, affectionately named after the patron saint of bakers. There isn’t a more versatile dough.

If you don’t consider olives a worthy appetizer, warm, marinated olives infused with chilies, herbs, citrus and spice will change your mind. Gently heating the olives in oil intensifies their flavour and imbues them with aromatics that have been known to convert olive skeptics into olive lovers. I keep a large Mason jar of marinated olives in my fridge ready to reheat whenever guests show up at my door.

The olives keep for ages and the flavoured oil is enough reason to keep it on hand; I use it for salad dressings, roast potatoes, crostini and anything else that needs a potent earthy boost Goat cheese and olives are a delicious duo, especially when the cheese (room temperature, please) is drizzled with oil steeped with mustard seeds, fennel, thyme and peppercorns Ser ved with a baguette or crackers, this appetizer never fails to please

Think carpaccio of beef is for restaurants only? I serve it for impromptu kitchen parties because nothing could be easier, and there’s no special equipment involved, other than a sharp knife and some plastic wrap Simply slice a small piece of raw beef tenderloin, place it between two sheets of plastic wrap and gently pound the beef (the bottom of a small saucepan does nicely) until the tenderloin is paper thin Remove the top layer of plastic and invert the exposed beef onto a plate. This can be done hours in advance and stored in the refrigerator until ready to use. Just before serving, each fillet is topped with a simple salad, shaved Parmesan, freshly cracked black pepper and a pinch of fleur de sel. Even if your guests are squeamish about rare meat, one bite of the sweet, melt in the mouth fillet will change their minds and have them marvelling at your ingenuity.

With appetizers like these, you’ll find lots of excuses to invite guests over.

FIND THE RECIPES ON THE FOLLOWING PAGES

WINE PAIRING

Appetizers and sparkling go together like salt and pepper. If you’re feeling flush, you can’t go wrong with champagne. If you’re feeling flat, look to Cava or Prosecco. Of course, you shouldn’t skip over B C’s sparkling wines crisp examples from Vancouver and the Gulf Islands, the Fraser Valley and the Okanagan would bring this global appetizer class back home Treve Ring

Gougères

Makes about 45 gougères

¾ cup milk

¾ cup water

¾ cup plus 1 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into cubes

2 tsp salt

2½ tsp sugar

2 cups flour

4 5 eggs

1 cup grated Gruyère cheese, more or less if desired

1 egg, slightly beaten, for egg wash

Disposable piping bag fitted with a plain pastry tip (optional)

Baking sheet lined with parchment or Silpat

Preheat oven to 375°F

In a medium sized saucepan, combine the milk, water, butter, salt and sugar. Bring the mixture to a full boil. Remove from the heat and add the flour all at once and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a ball and pulls away from the sides of the pan

If using a stand up mixer, transfer the dough to the mixer fitted with the paddle at tachment. If mixing by hand, use a wooden spoon. Add the eggs to the dough, one at a time, ensuring each egg is well incorporated before adding another You may not need all five eggs After the fourth egg has been incorporated, check the consistency of the dough: the mixture is ready when the dough forms a thick ribbon from your spoon, or paddle. If the mixture is too firm, add another egg. Add the grated cheese.

If using a pastry bag, spoon the dough into a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip. Pipe round mounds about 1½ inches in diameter onto a lined baking sheet, leaving an inch or two between each mound (If not using a pastry bag, simply spoon the dough onto a lined baking sheet ) Brush the top of each mound with the beaten egg Note: if using a pastry bag, each mound of dough will have a small peak created by the pip ing tip (think soft ice cream) gently press down the peak with a fork or fingertip to create a smooth mound

Set aside for 15 minutes before baking

Reduce the temperature to 350°F and bake for about 20 to 30 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through the baking Test one gougère to ensure it is cooked in the cen tre If the mixture is cooked on the outside, but not the inside, turn the oven off and leave the pastries in until cooked all the way through Watch carefully, as your oven will still be hot. Remove to a rack to cool slightly before serving.

Using a sharp knife, carefully cut the chilled beef into thin slices Place the sliced beef on a sheet of plastic wrap and cover with another layer of plastic wrap Gently pound the beef (the bottom of a pot works well) to flatten the meat until it is paper thin. Re move the top layer of plastic and invert the exposed beef onto a plate If you are not serving immediately, leave on the (remaining) plastic wrap until ready to serve (This can be done hours in advance and stored in the refrigerator until ready to use ) Just before serving, remove the plastic wrap from each fillet. Whisk the grapeseed oil and vinegar together. Top each fillet with a simple salad dressed with the vinaigrette, sliced shallots, shaved Parmesan, freshly cracked black pepper and a pinch of fleur de sel

In the 500 block of Bernard Street is the sunshine y Bohemian Café & Catering Company. Entirely worth standing in line for, sharing a table, or queuing up at the cash register. Bennies, omelettes, granola, or a side of bacon (you know you want it), this is free range, homemade, and all delicious. Busy in there? Really, share a table. You’ll meet great people Near the Bohemian is the Mad Mango Café Okay, the secret is already out with this one but it’s really tasty

Also doing the breakfast/lunch thing on the must eat this food list is The Bread Company (frittata!) on Bernard, Duncan’s Bistro (panini!) on Lawrence Ave, and The Bike Shop Café & Catering on Ellis Street hello, $5 breakfast sandwiches

Aforementioned spots aside, there’s also a burgeoning coffee scene in the city of Kelowna. Words like ‘fair trade’ and ‘locally roasted’ roll off the tip of the tongue. Great places to grab a good cuppa are The Bean Scene Coffee House (200 block of Bernard) with their comfy sofas and vintage sideboard, and GiObean Espresso (self proclaimed “coffee the Italian way”) a bit farther along Water Street And in the newly reclaimed area of Ellis Street is The Cannery Coffee Company, providing a touch of sophistication at midday

We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the Streaming Café (500 block Leon Ave) They take two things very seriously: java, and sharing tunes. A stellar coffee house by day becomes a sweet spot to catch live music on Saturday nights. Best of both worlds.

Lunch

To funk things up, there’s The Rotten Grape Wine & Tapas Bar in the heart of things on Bernard Street Fun, easy, and uber cool, the Rotten Grape is the place to be to share small plates and sip local wines; it’s now open for both lunch and dinner A few blocks away, find the Green Room Bistro (Ellis Street) in the heart of the Arts District with its awesome patio, local wine list and the Okanagan’s only singing servers Back on Bernard Street, Soban Korean Bistro (500 Block) serves up delectable fish tacos or Korean B bop. The Twisted Tomato (300 Block) does a cool lunch, delectable dinner, and that rare thing called brunch when it’s socially acceptable to bubble up your OJ No judgement here And the best spot to grab some good barbeque (and have a nip of bourbon) has to be the Vancouver originated Memphis Blues BBQ House (300 block)

Dinner

Wasabi Izakaya on Pandosy can satisfy your sushi craving and then some A traditional “Izakaya” (loosely translated as a Japanese version of tapas), Wasabi provides several excuses to linger as the plates keep coming

On Ellis Street (1300 1400 Block), find La Bussola (Italian fine dining), the newly renovated Dawett (Indian cuisine) or catch dinner and a show at the Kelowna Actor’s Studio. Home grown talent from kitchen to stage.

Local, sustainable, innovative, communal all are apt words to describe RauDZ in the 1500 block of Water Street With mixologists crafting the finest cocktails and chef Rod Butters keeping a keen eye on what’s in season, RauDZ is a great place to feel the local vibe especially at their communal table

If you’re looking for French cuisine, then Bouchon’s on Sunset Drive (a 2 minute walk from the Delta) might be for you. This classic brasserie offers familiar dishes like fois gras, bouillabaise, and organic chicken coq au vin, among other tasty delicacies. Dinners only, with a killer wine list and magnetic ambiance. Another favourite Kelowna haunt on Sunset is Water front Restaurant and Wine Bar Fresh from a substantial renovation (twice the original size), more fans can now sample the inspired local flavours of Chef Mark Filatow

By Jeannette Montgomery

wine + terroir By Michelle Bouffard and Michaela Morris

Vino in Vogue

The wine world is continually offering up new experiences, but we have to put aside our favourites to sample them.

Like fashion, wine goes through trends but we are often more reluctant to embrace something new While there is nothing wrong with Pinot Grigio and Malbec, there are plenty of other fascinating wines that deserve your attention One of our greatest pleasures when travelling to cutting edge cities is visiting places like Terroir in San Francisco or Bar Jamón in New York to discover the latest in wine But you don’t have to jump on a plane to find something fun to drink British Columbia is filled with passionate people who import and list great wine We asked top sommeliers and wine buyers what excites them these days.

With its enormous variety of grapes and regions, Italy is an endless source of discovery. While once associated with bulk production and plonk wine, southern Italy is really starting to reveal its potential “Unique wines with character are what excite me,” enthuses Terry Threlfall, sommelier at Hawksworth restaurant, “and Italy is the first place that comes to mind, especially Sicily They are now producing some wonderful wines.” Sicily’s indigenous varieties are the perfect vehicle to express the country’s unique terroir Fear not their unfamiliar names Flagship grape Nero d’Avola has already become a fixture on our shelves, and Nerello Mascalese from the slopes of Mount Etna has trickled in more recently Ever heard of Frappato? Michaela was raving about it when she returned from her travels in Sicily last year. Threlfall recently added the Frappato from COS to his wine list so now you can actually taste this well kept secret.

Threlfall is equally passionate about Spain, specifically citing the regions of Bierzo, Toro and Ribera del Duero. This is a reflection of the recent revival of forgotten grapes and regions Dedicated producers, like Telmo Rodríguez, are passionate about bring ing abandoned vineyards back to life. He is also encouraging local workers who know the area like the back of their hand to join his crusade He has made inroads in Málaga as well as Cebreros in the Castilla y León area. From Cebreros, watch for his Pegaso Granito, made from 100 percent Garnacha vines planted at high altitudes Note, there are no cars there apparently, just donkeys Talk about reviving abandoned areas!

Neighbouring Portugal is just as exciting and value and charm never lack The region of Vinho Verde is known for cheap and cheerful wine While we love them; we’re anxious to see more of the higher quality wines A recent tasting with Rui Falcão, a wine writer and ambassador for Portuguese wines, reminded us that a more sophisti cated side of Vinho Verde does exist As for Portugal’s reds, names of indigenous varieties like Castelão and Touriga Nacional don’t roll off the tongue, but don’t let that deter you It’s all about the character they deliver in the glass While we wait for more of these wines to grace our shelves, you can start practising these names while sipping on Crasto’s Old Vines Reserva from the Douro region

Cool and hip doesn’t necessarily mean obscure In New World countries, savvy wine makers are looking beyond the varieties that made them famous and exploring new regions In Chile (where Cabernet Sauvignon reigns king), the latest buzz is Syrah planted in the northern valleys of Elqui and Límari. Pamela Sanderson, regional manager for Cascadia Liquor in Victoria, reminds us that you don’t have to look far away to stay on top of the trends. While the Okanagan Valley dominates the wine scene here in B C , she shines the spotlight on Pinot Noir from Vancouver Island and beyond. “There are too many wines to list that I like from Saanich, the Gulf Islands and the Cowichan Valley, but for me, 2009 really stood out!” In particular, Sanderson recommends Averill Creek and Starling Lane.

True to fashion’s ebbs and flows, certain wines that were once all the rage have become passé. Luckily, some favourites from the past have enjoyed a revamp and are gaining the support of the trade “I’m loving the rebirth, resurgence and re acquain tance of two maligned, misunderstood and misrepresented giants: Beaujolais and Australia,” asserts Neil Ingram, sommelier and co owner of Boneta restaurant “Both had a reputation for industrial plonk, not unjustified from the old selection on our shelves; both are now trotting out delightful, focused and affordable wines

n’t agree more. Beaujolais’ image suffered from its Nouveau category. However, the region boasts many serious and delightful wines beyond Barbara Philip, MW (Master of Wine) and portfolio manager for the wines of Europe at the BC Liquor Distribution Branch, has championed the region’s best examples: Cru Beaujolais “I love them all: from Fleurie and St Amour to the more powerful Morgons and Moulin à Vents The 2009s really caught my attention with their red fruits, exotic herbal aromas and silky tannins, and it looks like the juicy 2010s are going to be excellent as well ” The fantastic selection on the shelves reflects her enthusiasm

Rhys Pender, MW, a wine educator and owner of Wine Plus in the Okanagan, expands on Ingram’s allusion to Australia’s renaissance He recently returned from Australia and is raving about: “Tasmania Racy Riesling, elegant flavoursome, complex Pinot Noir And Canberra for Shiraz and Riesling Underrated but fantastic ” We hope to see more wines from these areas soon In the meantime, we’ll content ourselves with Chardonnay Once known for an over oaked and pedestrian style, Australia has stepped up and is now recognized for making some of the best Chardonnay in the world Skeptical? Get some fresh crab and open a bottle of Shaw & Smith M3, Penfolds Yattarna or Xanadu Next of Kin

Wine trends don’t just apply to grapes and regions. Different styles of wine have their moment in the sun, some quite literally Global warming combined with the trend of picking grapes later has resulted in a huge increase of wines with over 13.5 percent alcohol Wine drinkers were lapping it up, but a backlash against high alcohol wines has begun. Being lightweights, we welcome lower alcohol wines and we’re not alone Mark Filatow, chef and sommelier at Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar says, “Whether it’s snappy Chenins from Loire, Cab Francs and Gamays made here in B C , I’ve had some amazing small production wines from here and beyond that ring in at 12.5 percent or less. Refreshing. My head agrees.” Ours too!

Lighter reds are also capturing the attention of wine experts Whether it be Frappato or Beaujolais, people see a value at the table. Wine is meant to accompany food and these gems are suited for it Frances Sidhe, sommelier at Zambri’s restaurant in Victoria, sees a change: “When we first opened Zambri’s twelve years ago it was hard to convince many of our customers to try Italian wines, especially those which were lighter and more acidic. Now, they come in and ask for them. It makes my job so much easier because there are so many beautiful Italian wines made in just this style ” Inspired to try something new but don’t know where to begin? Plunk yourself down at the bar of your favourite local restaurant and ask the sommelier to guide you along Happy discovering!

TASTING NOTES

Reds

2007 Falernia, Syrah Reser va, Elqui Valley, Chile $18 21 (SKU #147819)

Chec k out Chile’s exciting Syrahs at t he Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival Or, pick up a bottle of the Falernia Violets, red cur rant and blac k pepper not es wit h a lovely elegance to it

2010 Christophe Pacalet, Beaujolais Villages AOC, France, $23 28 (SKU #15800)

A testament to the quality of wine the region can produce Beautiful lif ted floral aromas with fresh cherr y notes Enjoy with chicken, pork or salmon

2009 Alvaro Palacios, ‘Petalos’ Bierzo DO, Spain, $30 35 (SKU #879221)

Mencía is the grape behind this pretty and exotic red Wild aromas of plum and violet with pleasant notes of black licorice Ver y sensual Per fect for game meat

2010 Azienda Ag r icola COS, Frappato, Sicilia IGT, Italy, $33 38 (SKU# 191270)

Sim ple ye t oh so c har ming Pure f lavours of c her r ies and cranber r ies wit h a silky t exture Ser ve with a heaping plate of sweetbreads and mushrooms

2008 Quinta do Crasto, Old Vines Reser va, Douro DO, $43 49 (SKU #489211)

Full bodied wit h f ir m t annin and concentrat ed notes of leather, cassis and minerals Decant and ser ve with a serious piece of red meat

Whites

2009 Xanadu, N ext of Kin, Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia $17 19*

Luscious mango and pineapple flavours balanced by vibrant key lime pie notes The per fect match with roasted chicken and richer seafood

2009 V incent Raimbault Vouvray AOC, France, $24 28 (SKU# 127019)

A g reat Chenin Blanc from t he Loire Valley Piercing flavours of quince, lemon and mushroom Indulge in rillettes

2009 Telmo Rodr iguez, ‘Gaba do Xil’ Godello, Valdeorras DO, Spain $26 30*

A f ine exam ple of t he c haract er ful Godello g rape, whic h has seen a revival in t he Valdeorras region Rich yet vibrant with notes of lime and guava Ser ve with pan fried white fish

2009 Pewsey Vale, Riesling, Eden Valley, Australia $27 32*

Pretty peach and lemon aromas This dr y Riesling enc hants wit h lime sorbe t, s tone, mineral and lip smacking acidity We can’t wait for spot prawn season!

liquid assets

—by Larry Ar nold

RED WINE

Cal Y Canto Full Red 2009 Spain $12.00 15.00

An incredible bargain The blend includes Tempranillo, Merlot & Syrah sourced from fruit grown on the high plains of Spain’s great central plateau; La Mancha Dark and robustly flavoured with bright cherry, earth and spice flavours that persist through the finish. For immediate, easy pleasure.

Alderlea Pinot Noir Reserve 2007 Vancouver Island $32.00 37.00

Deep, generous nose, classic Pinot Noir, island Pinot Noir No brett here just ripe, clean fruit: cherry, cassis, spice and autumn leaves. Mouth filling texture, everything is here but it still needs time Lovely balance

Josef Chromy Pinot Noir 2009 Australia $30.00 33.00

Chromy’s Pinot Noir is sourced from fruit grown on the estate vineyard at Relbia at the northern end of Tasmania The wine is darkly coloured with a generous bouquet of red fruit and expensive French oak Complex with ample fruit, fine grained tannins and a muscular structure Although approachable now this pinot is no gay little charmer; it has a dark side that after a glass or two kind of grows on you.

Bodega Catena Malbec 2008 Argentina $21.00 23.00

Over the last few years Argentine Malbec has become the hottest wine on the planet and when it comes to Malbec, Catena is the gold standard Deep purplish black with an intense nose of blackberries, licorice and spice; a wine at once fine yet at the same time rustic Round and full with rich fruit flavours, soft tannins and a touch of oak Great drinking from beginning to end....

Fontodi Chianti Classico 2007 Italy $34.00 37.00

Fontodi; etch this name into your brain, you will not regret it Located south of the tiny village of Panzano, in the heart of Chianti Classico, vines have been cultivated here since ancient Rome was the biggest player on the planet This estate has history to put it bluntly and although the price of Chianti Classico has soared over the last couple of decades, good Chianti is worth every penny Bright and clean with lovely raspberr y, violet and vanilla aromas. Full bodied with sweet fruit flavours, fresh acidity and a rasp of grippy tannins through the finish. Highly enjoyable now but will reward time in your cellar basement closet

Domaine de Bacarra Beaujolais Villages 2009 France $20.00 22.00

Two thousand and nine is considered by many to be one of the greatest vintages in the last half century and this wine does not disappoint Irresistibly fruity and aro matic, with mouth filling flavours and a long soft finish Fresh and quaffable

left: Clos du Soleil Capella 2009 Similkameen Valley, BC right: Unsworth Pinot Gris 2010 Vancouver Island, BC

WHITE WINE

Unsworth Pinot Gris 2010 Vancouver Island, BC $20.00 23.00

As far as I can tell Unsworth Vineyards is Vancouver Island’s newest winery Sitting on 13 hectares of prime real estate on Cameron Taggart Road, close to Merridale Cidery, the winery and vineyard is still very much a work in progress. Considering 2010 was their first vintage my expectations were not too high but I was delightfully surprised This scrumptious little quaffer begs for a compliment Very fresh with good intensity and racy acidity Citrusy with floral, mineral and honey nuances and a slightly oily texture A good bet to wash down a couple of dozen fresh oysters.

Buehler Vineyards Russian River Chardonnay 09 California $24 00 27 00

This delicious Russian River Chardonnay is irresistible It is what the French would describe as “big shouldered ” Very aromatic with floral, stone fruit and toast aromas and mouth filling viscosity, beautifully balanced with supple fruit flavours, clean, natural acidity and a long creamy finish. Delicious...

J.A. Ferret Sous Vergisson Pouilly Fuisse 2010 $46.00 50.00 Sous Vergisson is a blend of Chardonnay from some of the best sites in the appellation This lovely Pouilly Fuisse is a fresh straightforward Chardonnay with a whiff of crushed oyster shells and citrus on the nose. Balanced and elegant with a lovely creamy texture and a long clean finish

Clos du Soleil Capella 2009 Similkameen Valley, BC $23.00 25.00

Move over Bordeaux Blanc, this lushly textured blend of Sauvignon Blanc (90%) and Semillon (10%) is seriously good. Warm and generous with aromas of wildflowers, vanilla and citrus with a touch of honey and bitter almond to round it all out. Capella is not a flowery little delight; it is big and rich with a creamy texture and a long spicy finish Who could have known?

Grandes Caves Saint Roch Vouvray Demi Sec 2010 France $21.00 23.00

This lovely off dry Chenin Blanc is the kind of wine that could only come from France. The nose is heady and rich, it is floral, perhaps acacia blossoms, but there is also quince, honey and red apples Medium bodied and well balanced with an oily viscosity that coats the palate and dances between fruity sweetness and fresh acidity It is a delicious paradox.

Giesen “The Brothers” Sauvignon Blanc 2009 New Zealand $22 00 25 00

There is absolutely nothing reserved about this intense Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc It is pungent, full flavoured and not lacking in character Crisp and clean with citrus, passionfruit and gooseberry aromas, ripe fruit flavours and a long refreshing finish.

ALL THE DIRT

Local Farmers Launch new Book

Part inspiration, part manifesto, and part reality check, All The Dirt goes beyond being a handbook of farming know how to passionately illustrate life on today’s next gen farm Essentially three long chapters each chapter written by one of three co authors, Rachel Fisher, Heather Stretch, and Robin Tunnicliffe with two shorter, concluding, and collaborative chapters, All The Dir t mixes the romance of farming with the challenge of living off the land, so to speak We hear how farming is a balancing act of technique and science, raising families, the need to earning a living, and about the pleasure of being plugged into a supportive farmer community and growing food movement.

But the book also digs deep into the practical knowledge required to grow food with a truckload of advice including starting out, facts, planting and harvesting charts, tips, the best equipment, leasing land, financial spreadsheets all the information you’d need if you decided to ditch that city job and took up feeding people for a living Sprinkled throughout the chapters are neat little sidebars, such as On Being a Woman Far mer (Robin), How to Put Plastic on a Greenhouse (Rachel) and Far m Kids (Heather) The final two chapters discuss why they are organic farmers and describe their business collective, Saanich Organics Informative, timely and well written, All The Dirt is a must read insider’s account of farming today on Vancouver Island.

Gary Hynes

*To read an interview with Heather Stretch go to www eatmagazine ca and Search: All The Dirt All The Dirt, published by TouchWood Editions, $29 95 ISBN 978 1 972129 12 8 Available at bookstores and online at www touchwoodeditions com

The EAT Guide to Comfort Food

Michael Dinn is co owner and co founder of JoieFarm Winer y He is a graduate of t he Canadian Sommelier Guild program and spent 13 years working in front of house at a number of Vancouver’s best restaurants, including positions as sommelier at both C Restaurant and CinCin

EASTER MODERN Quail, parsnip, chicories, beurre rouge, fig leaf, vanilla

MD A lighter to medium bodied red wine with ripe fruit, good natural acidity and medium alcohol would be the ideal pairing for this dish Pinot Noir, Gamay and Sangiovese would all work well From a pure value stand point, it would be hard to go wrong with a Valpolicella or its richer cousin, a Ripasso. The deciding factor leading me to Italy is the chicories their pleasing bitterness is valued quite highly in northern Italian cuisine, so the wines complement rather than clash with this sometimes difficult flavour

DF I see a welcomed challenging conflict of terrior here with classic dish components of the Old World, yet we want to bring the party into current times This dilemma transports me to the Central Otago region of New Zealand where many top producers are paying homage to the natural purity of Burgundian Pinot Noir while develop ing their own signature noteworthy lineage In this case, there is enough new world ripe fruit to act as a layer over the inherent earthiness of the grape, thereby bolstering the intensity needed to match the mild gaminess of the quail Texturally soft fruits in the wine will be comparable

lenses: modern and traditional.

David Foran (DF) Wine Director, SIDECUT Modern Steak Four Seasons Resor t Whistler

Af ter graduating from t he International Sommelier Guild in 2001, David has become a sought af ter wine consultant, speaker and judge He is currently overseeing the restaurant and wine program at SIDECUT in Whistler’s Four Seasons Resor t

to the texture of the beurre rouge (prepare with the same wine) and parsnip (puree) A degree of toastiness from barrel maturation would work nicely with (grilled) chicory if not a slight vanilla component.

ES With this dish, I would look towards a youthful Bandol from southern France The overall rich and decadent flavours of the dish call for wine with sufficient body and moderate but polished tannins The flavour profile of Bandol will mirror the vanilla, chicories and fig leaf nicely For a closer to home option, I would look towards a B.C. Pinotage: good structure and complemen tary flavours of mocha, vanilla and spice

EASTER TRADITIONAL Ham, pineapple, cloves, potatoes

MD This dish calls for a light to medium bodied white wine to match the weight of the dish You also want great natural acidity to cut through the fat, and loads of tropi cal fruit supported by some residual sugar to properly complement the pineapple and cloves A German Riesling (either Kabinett or Spätlese) or a British Columbia or Ontario Riesling with anywhere from 12 25 grams of residual sugar would be ideal, as would a demi sec Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley

Bar

U pon com ple ting t he Int er national Sommelier Guild Diploma in 2006, Erika relocated to the Okanagan and fully immersed herself in B C ’ s wine countr y With a crush at Tinhorn and a few restaurant stints at Burrowing Owl and Manteo Resor t, she moved back to the Island to open Vis à Vis Wine Bar in Victoria’s Oak Bay Village

DF I would approach this pairing with the thought of North American traditions as opposed to classical European cooker y. To me, this dish screams out for a fleshy, opulent white loaded with richness and tropical elements Although ham may be leaner than other proteins, a bone in version with its increased intensity of flavour can stand up to a richer style wine The caramelization achieved through roasting will play nicely to a wine matured at a high barrel toast level and the pineapple component along with pineapple glaze leads me to an expressive, succulent California selection of oak aged Viognier. My recommendation would be source out a producer from Edna Valley in San Luis Obispo where fruit achieves optimum ripeness yet retains its acidity for balance

ES With traditional Easter dinner I always look towards a slightly off dry Alsatian White Pinot Gris would be my first choice, but a slightly aged Gewürztraminer should be considered as well The richness and fruit driven palate of the Pinot Gris will complement the ham well by cutting through the salt while also ensuring the pineapple notes do not take on a bitter tone Also fun could be a Moscasto d’Asti Fresh, young and lots of spritz will cut through the salt and lighten up the meal.

Mic hael Dinn (MD) Proprietor, JoieFarm Winer y

what to drink with that—by Treve Ring

O U R E X P E R T S

Erika Staf fanson (ES) Manager & Sommelier, Vis à Vis Wine & Charcuterie

DRINK editor Treve Ring asks local wine experts how they would approach pairing dishes and flavours. This month’s challenge is to view Easter dinner through two

The Buzz

VICTORIA: This edition of the Victoria Buzz has had me humming the Beatles to myself (hello, goodbye, hello, goodbye ) Let’s star t with the goodbyes, shall we? Af ter ten years in Market Square, Muf fet and Louisa will be closing t heir Victoria location Their Sidney shop remains open for business Also saying goodbye to Market Square is local institution Fat Phege’s Fudge Factor y, whose lease will not be renewed once it expires in April. The Feys + Hobbs Boutique said goodbye to its For t St. location in Januar y, but will say hello to Oak Bay Ave once renovations are complete (2249 Oak Bay Ave ) Other food businesses to leave For t St this winter include Pink Sugar Cupcaker y and Golden Chopsticks Some more hellos, please? Smoken Bones Cookshack opened their downtown location in the Hudson (corner of Douglas and Herald St ) at the end of Januar y Ingredients Health Food Store and Apple Café celebrated their grand opening in Februar y (Corner of Store and Herald St ) Still hush hush hellos include a new project of Cosmo Meens’ (Mo:lé, Village Family Marketplace) called the Soup Peddler to fill the spot lef t by Bubby Rose’s Baker y in the Cook St Village, and a new independent eater y called the Clay Pigeon coming to Blanshard St with links to the Pink Bicycle and Chef Geneviève Laplante (Sips, Cook Culture and EAT photographer) at the helm in the kitchen Now how about a hello again? The new Oak Bay Beach Hotel is bringing back the Snug Pub; complete with original bar tender Joe Smith and their iconic mugs and memorabilia Opening planned for the end of May Also in Oak Bay, the Whole Beast is planning a Carnivore Dinner series in par tnership with The Village Butcher The butcher shop will be transformed into a meat inspired dining room The dinners will feature five courses of island grown products, paired with local wines Follow the Whole Beast on Facebook or Twitter for more details and updates A selection of Whole Beast products, such as smoked sausages, salamis, hams, liver wurst and pepperoni are now also available at the Niagara Grocer y in James Bay Another exciting food par tnership is happening between El Guapo Chorizo Grill and Vancouver Island Salt Co. who are pairing up to create a Spanish Paprika Salt Keep an eye out for it at the Victoria Downtown Public Markets

In kitchen news, chef Jef f Keenliside has of ficially taken over both kitchens at the Penny Far thing pub and neighbouring Vis a Vis wine bar Vis a Vis is now open ever y day of the week for lunch as well as dinner Anot her new lunch option in town is Kulu Modern Asian Restaurant’ s Take Out Lunch menu Available Monday Friday, orders must be placed before 5pm the previous day, and deliver y is free for orders over $30 Kulu has also just launched their new spring menu, featuring local meats and produce from Umi Nami Farm

If springtime gets your green thumbs twitching, there are several urban gardening courses coming up to provide some guidance on how to get the most out of your patch Lifecycles Project is of fering Planning your Food Garden with Master Gardener Amy Crook on March 7, and Sowing Seeds: The Basics, a work shop in three sessions on March 14, 21 and 28 (www lifecyclesproject ca) Royal Roads University is running a 20 week course on Growing Food in the City, from March 3 September 22 For a great read, look out for t he new book by Saanic h Organics farmers Rac hel Fisher, Heather S tretc h and Robin Tunniclif fe, called All the Dir t: Reflections on Organic Farming (Touchwood Editions) Par t memoir, par t how to manual for establishing an organic farm and getting a food distribution business of f the ground, this book covers ever ything you ever wanted to know about small scale organic farming Rebecca Baugniet

VANCOUVER: Sweet news Chambar alumni Eleanor Chow and Slavita Johnson are opening their first joint project, Cadeaux Baker y (www.cadeauxbaker y.com), at 172 Powell St. If the baking is anything like what Chow used to turn out at Chambar, this will be a gif t, indeed Nicli Antica Pizzeria (www nicli antica pizzeria ca) owners Bill and Alison McCaig are opening Vicino Pastaria and Deli this spring, next door to their Vera Pizza Napoletana establishment Look for housemade fresh filled and extruded dr y pasta, sauces, and housemade, local and impor ted cured meats, with both retail and dine in op tions And speaking of pizza, it seems Vancouver s till doesn’t have enough good pizza Joining t he likes of Campagnolo, Nicli, Nook, Pizzeria Barberella, Novo, and Farina, comes Famoso (www f amoso ca), a popular Canadian franc hise t hat specializes in you guessed it authentic Neapolitan pizza Look for it sometime in April on Commercial Drive

From t he owners of The Cascade Room and Habit comes a new of f er ing The Union Bar (www theunionbar ca) at 219 Union Street specializes in Southeast Asian food (think noodles, curries, and street food inspired fare) Now open nightly, no reser vations Miku Restaurant (www mikurestau rant com) has taken over the former Goldfish Seafood and Chops space at 1118 Mainland Street in Yale town Minami, t he second location of t his Ocean Wise cer tified sushi restaurant (one of only two in Greater Vancouver) is slated to open in summer 2012

Japadog (www japadog com), the first Vancouver street food vendor who managed to of fer some thing other than just tube steak on a bun (the freshly grated daikon is a fave) has opened a storefront location in New York City Tomorrow the world

Green Table Network (www greentable net) has launched their 2 0 ser vice, to better of fer local restaurants access to sustainable producers and suppliers, including online guidebooks, DIY tools, on site verification and suppor t, and more Chambar Restaurant (www chambar com) has become one of only two restaurants in British Columbia to achieve Carbon Neutral cer tification Congrats to hus band and wife team Karri and Nico Schuermans!

And in more g reen news, Traf alg ar’s Bis tro and Swee t Obsessions Cakes and Pas tr ies (www trafalgars com) might just be least wasteful food ser vice operation in the countr y They have elim inated 100 percent of the organic waste going to landfills and 98 percent of all remaining waste From filling a Dumpster ever y week , they now barely fill a plastic garbage bag, all by using the GreenGood CG 50 composting machine, which composts all waste within 24 hours and with no odour NDP Fish eries and Oceans Critic Fin Donnelly has launched a shark fin impor t ban petition Shark fin soup is a popular dish at traditional Chinese weddings, and is also sought af ter for its purpor ted medicinal prop er ties For more info on the ban petition, visit www sharktruth com David Gunawan, former EC at West, is back from a three month stint in Belgium with a new concept in dining labelled ph5 (ph5dining@gmail com), a cooperative food and dining movement Weekly din ners happen ever y Wednesday around t he city until April, at which point t hey will be mont hly Five courses for $70 Email for de t ails Jay Jones, bar man extraordinaire at Mar ke t by Jean Georg es (www marketbyjgvancouver com) in the Shangri La Hotel, has been named Bar tender of the Year by Enroute Magazine Anya Levykh

NANAIMO: As we come out of t he foodie quiet season it is evident t hat a collection of innovative restaurateurs have been busy redesigning their dining rooms, menus and dishes Overall the approach is literally fresh with an increased use of local ingredients and culinar y creativity that is on the rise like a per fectly craf ted loaf of bread A trend for of fering gourmet dining and take home ar tisanal foods all

in one place is making t he mid island food scene more enticing than ever! And now for the highlights: Riso Foods Inc. (www risofoodsinc com; 250 390 07 7 7) Upon ent er ing t his Lantzville bis tro your senses are immediately captured by irresistible aro mas and a wall of fresh wood fired baked breads N ext a menu of seasonal dishes craf ted wit h t he creative f lare of c hef s Sarah Wallbank and Matthew Sheppard fuels your anticipation I was par ticularly taken with the sunchoke soup, es pecially af t er hear ing t he c hokes were g rown in Sarah’s garden As the menu changes with the sea son one familiar bite remains the wood fired pizza made wit h magic by Sarah’s husband Taka You won’t want to leave wit hout tuc king a loaf under your arm

Markt Ar tisan Deli (www mar ktar tisandeli com; (250) 585 5337) You may have noticed Mar kt gets regular mention in t his Buzz This is because chef Ryan Zuvich and his team are on an endless path of innovation Now a Brasserie Menu featur ing amazing classic yet contemporar y dishes is on of fer Thursday Saturday weekly Through a win dow from the deli to the kitchen you can see chef at wor k prepar ing house made c harcut er ie, salad, gourmet entrees and desser ts It is the lamb with or ange olive sauce that found a special place on my palate You won’t want to leave without something (like their house cured bacon) from the deli case Danfor th Deli and Grill (www danfor thdeli com; (250) 591 1742) Here owner Ben Br yce has re vived t he kind of comfor ting lunc h you may re member r unning home for as a sc hool kid Using breads baked before opening he builds a variety of tower ing g r illed c heese sandwic hes you will never forget While I star ted as a skeptic about Buf

falo chicken in a grill cheese I am now a conver t! Takeaways include exceptionally tas ty meat pies and an unusual selection of specialty cheeses

Urban Beet Real Food Cafe (www urbanbeet ca; 250 390 9722) Not just for lunch anymore! A new manag ement t eam has been im plementing t able ser vice and adding dinner and brunch to the menu while new chef Lisa Lipieg has been busy innovat ing thematic dishes that include beet based healthy platters and an amazing “Beet Bomb” star ter Other not ables include a selection of gour me t burg ers, corn tor tilla tacos and t he great take away foods Urban Beet has become known for Nest Bistro (486A Franklyn St ; 250 591 2721) Many locals are already in t he know about t he comfor ting f are at t his neighbor hood eat er y in Nanaimo’s Old City Quar ter A little birdie from the N es t has told me t hat a new menu is ready for launch by March 1st It is without a doubt that the new dishes will reflect the same passion chefs Nick Braun and Jennifer Ash have put into their food since opening last year The little birdie has been tweeting about a great new wine list too! City Square Grill (www citysquaregrill com; 250 746 1700) The newest kids on the block in down town Duncan are City Sq uare Gr ill’s passionat e young team led by owner Jaimie Schmidt Work ing with island suppliers this enthusiastic group have developed a sophis ticated menu featur ing house curr y and specialty ravioli entrees Definitely wor th a visit to get your spice on! Karma Brophy

TOFIN O: There are two ma jor upcoming events that help us far flung west coasters welcome spring The Pacific Rim Whale Festival, March 17 25, is a long running fes tival (now in its 26t h year) t hat

celebrates the return of migrating whales from their sout hern winter feeding grounds wit h many enter t aining events Several food and dr ink focused Whale Festival events also help us to break out of that winter funk Chef Nick Nutting and the kitchen br ig ade at t he Point e Res t aurant at t he W ic k aninnish Inn will be hos ting t he Whale Fes tival Gala dinner and Silent Auction fundraiser on March 15 The Wickaninnish has been donating 100% of the proceeds from this dinner for the past 14 years, and las t year raised $20,000 for t he f es tival www wic kinn com or call 250 725 3100 The Chowder Chowdown is a not to be missed Whale Festival event, with local chefs ser ving up their best seafood c howder of f er ings to t he public and a panel of judg es This event t akes place Sunday, March 18 at the Ucluelet Community Centre Sweet Indulg ences is Whale Fes t’s answer to a desser t lovers’ dream all you can eat desser t! Locals of fer up their best family recipes while attendees vote on t heir f avour it e treats, and it’s all se t to live music March 22 at the Ucluelet Community Centre Black Rock Oceanfront Resor t will be hosting the Bar nacle Blues concer t, also on March 22 This event is all about gourmet appetizers from local chefs and com plement ar y beverag es, as well as f ant as tic blues music from Jim Byr nes and Headwat er www blackrockresor t com 250 726 4800 For de tails visit www pacificrimwhalefestival com/events

The Tof ino Ucluele t Culinar y Guild (http://www tucg ca) is busy with preparations for the 2nd annual Feast Tofino Ucluelet festival, set for May 14 31 This festival recognizes the area ’ s foodie appeal wit h doc k f es tivals f eatur ing local and guest chefs, live music and seafood tasting, and special “Feas t A bout Town” menus at local

res t aurants Accommodation providers and tour operators also of fer specials during Feast. I’m hop ing for more specifics for the May/June edition, but in the meantime visit www feastbc com and follow Feast BC on Facebook

The TUCG also heads up quite the healthy lunch prog ram at W ic kaninnish Community Sc hool and they’ve just announced that chef Rick Moore, for mer ly of his own Caf é Pam plona, t he Wic kaninnish Inn and Shelt er Res t aurant, will be delighting t he palates of Tofino’s youngest diners by t aking on t he prog ram s t ar ting t his year “For anyone who has shared a kitc hen wit h him t hey know he is hard working, humble, caring, and has been a real positive inf luence for a lot of young c hef s in Tof ino,” s t at es infor mation about Moore from the TUCG

The Spotted Bear Bistro took a brief break from their weekend brunch over the winter, but thankfully it’s back Chef Vincent Fraissange will have Sun day brunch until Easter weekend, when it will star t running Saturdays as well This, of course, in addi tion to his regular seven days a week dinner ser vice star ting at 5:30pm www spottedbearbistro com or call 250 725 2215

If you ’ re making Easter weekend plans to come visit, also c hec k out t he Eas t er t hemed br unc h at t he Pointe Restaurant It runs from 8am 2pm on Sun day, April 8th, and will feature a chocolate tasting and demons tration by pas tr y c hef Matt W ilson

For more information, visit www wickinn com or call 250 725 3100 Jen Dar t

N OTE: The COMOX BUZZ by Eli Blake is available online t his issue Visit www eatmagazine ca and enter Comox Buzz into Search

PHOTOGRAPHY

New Brewery Launches

Victoria has just gained another brewery: Hoyne Brewing , with the motto: “Drink Hoyne for Smarts, Strength, and Stamina.” Sean Hoyne has had the dream of opening his own brewery for a very long time “I put my dream on hold while I was raising a family”, says Sean “Meanwhile, I was perfecting my brewing craft at Canoe and Swans brewpubs I figured it was now or never!” Sean started with a science degree specialising in biochemistry and microbiology. Along the way he also did a one year business degree, and then switched to a MA in literature at the University of Victoria “I’m quite liberally educated”, laughs Sean It was while he was at UVic that he met legendar y BC Brewing guru Frank Appleton. Frank was setting up the brewery at Swans Hotel in Victoria, and interviewed Sean for the job of brewer there Sean recalls that he brought a six pack of his homebrew with recipes to the interview, but “Frank and I just talked about literature.” New hire Sean worked with Frank for a few months before Frank left, leaving Sean on his own. After his time with Swans, Sean moved down the street to open Canoe Brewpub, where he remained for 13 years, establishing their beer program and distinctive style

Sean’s goal now is to have a sustainable, environmentally responsible, financially viable company, one where he is surrounded by great people Sean goes beyond the company when he mentions the latter he says that he loves just hanging out with other brewers He was renowned for inviting the brewing community to regular Friday afternoon “safety meetings” during his tenure at Canoe

Hoyne Brewing will have a significantly large number of beers in the future There are nine on the planning board, with four currently in production Down Easy Pale Ale is made with Superior Pale, Golden Promise, and Thomas Fawcett Marris Otter malts, with some Crystal and Carastan added to get the lovely round mouth feel. Northwest hops used are mainly Willamette and Cascades This reminds one very much of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale For the Hoyner Pilsner Sean went for a strong malt character using tons of Vienna and Munich malts plus some German Carapils and Aromatic malts The bittering hops are primarily Saaz, with Hallertauer Mittelfruh, and German Select for the finish This beer pours with a beautiful thick white head, a hint of the excellent full body that this authentic Pilsner has

Devils Dream IPA was brewed with seven different hops including the big citrusy NW varieties: Amarillo, Simcoe, Citra and Centennial. Sean did not want to discuss IBU’s as he considers that a poor way to describe a beer “It’s all about hop character,” he said When I visited the brewery in early January, Sean was just adding the hops to the boil for the first batch of Big Cock Bock “This is going to be a malt bomb I’m adding just enough hops to give this beer balance” he said The main malt is Superior Pilsner malt, together with Chocolate, Carastan, Crystal, Vienna, Munich, Carapils, and Aromatic malts The hops are German Hersbrucker If these beers are typical of this brewery then the future looks well for Hoyne Brewing by John Rowling

Tasting Notes by Treve Ring

Hoyner Pilsner 5.3%

Bright, pale yellow gold in the glass, with crisp citrus and mild cereal notes, opening up to honey aro mas Bright and refreshing, with grapefruit rind finish

Down Easy Pale Ale 5.2%

Tangerine orange in hue and aroma, with easy drinking mild hop character

Devil’s Dream IPA 6%

Golden tones, with asser tive toasty ear th, grass and hop characters Quite smooth with good mouthfeel, and a touch of caramel on the lengthy finish

Big Cock Bock 6 5%

Amber brownish pour, with a subtle roasted malt, cocoa powder nose Creamy, mouth filling midpalate, so smooth it deceptively tricks you into thinking it’s lighter than it is Cocky Bock

*Read about EAT’s experience at Oak Bay Bistro’s Hoyne Brewmaster Dinner online at eatmagazine ca

chefs

W Whhaat t d do o y yoou u t h hiinnk k o of f o onnlliinne e r reevviieew w f foorruumms s s suucch h a as s

250.383.7137

Forums are helpful to find places to eat, however the majority of reviews are either poor or great People are more likely to blog a poor experience which can harm an establishment Alternatively all great reviews lead to disappoint like when customers have artificially high expectations When my wife and I travel, we search for places to stay and eat online and make our choices by price point, location and pictures.

Anna Hunt Paprika Bistro,

I think these forums can be ver y useful, if taken with a grain of salt People must remember that their experience may not be the same as that of other guests. If the complaints or accolades are consistently about the same things then it is a pretty good bet they are true I certainly use those forums when looking for somewhere to dine or stay when visiting strange cities

Jena Stewart Devour Bistro & Catering, 250.590.3231

I think blogs, Yelp, and TripAdvisor are so important I recently went away and used both TripAdvisor as well as Urbanspoon to get an edge on the scene in Sante Fe I am not saying that I would agree now that we’ve eaten at some of the highest regarded restaurant, but I did find places that I would not have sought out otherwise… I would disagree with some people’s choices but we get to have opinions as long as people are not rude with their findings!

Patrick Lynch Foo, 250.383.3111

Undoubtedly there are some informed contributors to online review forums submit ting thoughtful analysis of their dining experiences Fine Unfortunately, these forums also provide a soapbox for unenlightened half wits to slander restaurants For example, one online “food critic” once stated as a matter of fact that at Foo we use canned pineapple rather than fresh, an assertion that is categorically incorrect. The trouble with these forums is that when false and damaging statements are made there is no recourse for the restaurant An investment of twelve bucks on a meal should not entitle you to publicly criticize the inspiration of a chef or the hard work of a professional kitchen. If you aren’t happy, tell your server or write the place an email.

250.592.7424

Sean Brennan Brasserie L’Ecole, 250.475.6260

I would need the whole page to respond to this question

Quang Dang West Restaurant + Bar, 604.738.8938

I believe that, over time, the truth about a really good (or really bad) restaurant will emerge So we always welcome feedback, be it positive (which fortunately is usually the case for us), or constructive criticism If we stub our toe, experienced diners know to take it up with us directly, either during service when we can respond immediately or by getting in touch with us the next day Diners should be aware that some reviews are biased, but overall, the consumer is generally well ser ved by a little on line research, balanced by their own experiences

Sheila Jones, The Vanilla Pod Restaurant, 250.494.8222.

As far as the forums, they are both a great tool and not a great tool We know many people who use them as a guide to decide where to go and where not to go The frustrating part is that you are dealing with people's personal perceptions and not always tangible issues. Having said that everyone's opinions must be heard and if possible acted upon

with Stuart Brown ~ Tuesday March 27th, 7pm $35* - wine & food tasting Reserve Today

ph: 250.592.7424 dinner ~ monday to saturday from 5:30pm talk compiled by Ceara Lor nie

47 www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APR I L 2012

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Executive Chef Mark Filatrow of Kelowna’s Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar is one of the Okanagan’s top chefs both for his culinar y talent and formidable wine knowledge Quiet and unassuming, Mark is extremely focused in the kitchen, loved by his loyal staff and both respected and well liked amongst his peers Mark was born into a family with a great appreciation for food where his European heritage provided a culinar y melting pot of home made Russian, Jewish, Ukrainian, German, and Danish dishes. Growing up in Mississauga, Ontario, Mark was also influenced by his predominantly Italian neighborhood where the smell of grilled peppers was a signal that summer had arrived. After high school, he headed to the West Coast, skiing and working the lower ranks of the kitchens in Whistler Resort The University of British Columbia proved successful in the introduction to his now wife but he switched to Dubrulle Culinary Institute, after the realization that he preferred working in the campus kitchen, where he graduated with honors

After a season as head chef/dishwasher with a tree planting crew which covered his student debt, Mark began his culinar y apprentice in 1996 working with chef Rod Butters at Tofino’s Wickannish Inn which included the added bonus of learning to surf. After two years, he headed back to Vancouver and worked for Chef John Bishop at

Bishops Restaurant, followed by Diva at the Met Restaurant under Canadian Iron Chef, Michael Noble In 2001, he again joined Chef Rod Butters along with Audrey Surrao, as part of the opening team of Kelowna’s revolutionary fine dining restaurant, Fresco (now the contemporary RauDZ).

The dream of running his own restaurant came to fruition in November 2004, when he opened Kelowna’s Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar which overnight became an instant success Numerous awards followed including an award as one of “Canada’s Best New Restaurants” by EnRoute Magazine and five consecutive years of Wine Spectator’s “Award of Excellence” In the restaurant world, where customers are often fickle and today’s hotspot can be yesterday’s news, Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar has stood the test of time.

Mark enjoys raising his family in the Okanagan and skiing is a favorite family activity Along with raising two young children, Mark mentors many young and upcoming Chefs as well as running Details Catering Find Mark’s wonderful line of dips perfect for home entertaining such as Smokey Eggplant Caponta in Kelowna at Okana gan Grocery Artisan Breads under the Details Catering label

Mark takes great pride in sourcing locally and working with small independent farm ers. When he couldn’t find local Russet potatoes, he managed to convince John Cox of Sweet Life Farms to grow them and today they are one of the farm’s best selling potatoes. Mark also grows almost all of the restaurant’s herbs and tomatoes on his small farm called “Eldorado” which includes his much loved Italian Plum tree yielding nearly two hundred pounds of fruit and prized family heirloom Swedish Brown Beans

Menus change to reflect the best of the season and as one of only a handful of Canadian chefs, accepted into the International Sommelier Guild, the suggested food and wine pairings at Waterfront Restaurant are truly exceptional For an insider’s guide to some of the Okanagan’s best wines simply follow Waterfront Restaurant’s changing wine list.

In March after being closed for three months, Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar celebrates re opening following a nearly double in size expansion and renovation Reservations may now be just a little easier to come by Open Mon thru Sat from 5pm Closed Sundays #104 1180 Sunset Drive, Kelowna By Claire Sear

OKAN AGAN BUZZ: Muc h abuzz in t he Okanag an as we head int o spr ing Summerland’s fine dining restaurant, The Vanilla Pod, moves across t he lake to Poplar Grove Winer y, located at the entrance of the Naramata Bench, with open ing scheduled for late spring Summerland residents can still enjoy t he Vanilla Pod close t o home when t he Vanilla Pod Gr ill opens f or t heir f irs t season at t he Summerland Golf and Countr y Club on March 15t h. Summerland also has a new res t aurant , The S tuf f ed Pepper open f or lunc h Tuesda y t o Saturda y and f or dinner Friday and Saturday evenings in t he space previously occupied by Victoria Road and Deli The focus is on traditional Middle Eastern food combined with mod ern Canadian cuisine. Well know Penticton Farmer Market favorite Gigi Huscrof t aka “t he cupcake lady” has opened t he delightful Cupcake Lady Café (66 Front Street) in downtown Penticton Front Street has many good eateries to choose from incl uding Isshin Sushi Bar, Dream Caf é, Ginza Sushi , new l y opened W ild Scallion and jus t around t he cor ner on Wes tminis t er Ave, t he not t o be missed Burger 55

Grant De Montreil is t he new Executive Chef at West Kelowna’s Bonfire Grill located at t he Cove Resor t De Montreil’s culinar y talent already has a loyal local following and combined wit h Wes t Kelowna’s only water front patio, t he Bonfire Grill is a must destination for excellent food, wine and stunning lakefront views In Kelowna, celebrate Water front Restaurant and W ine Bar’ s beautiful renova tions and expansion wit h a reser vation. Zia’s Italian Fine Foods has opened at 1913 Kent Road and combines an Italian grocer y store, deli and café The home made hot Panini’s are sure to be popular wit h t he nearby of fice lunch crowd The Kelowna Farmer’s Market is open indoors on Saturdays from 9:00am to 1:00pm at t he Parkinson Recreation Centre.

The Okanagan now has two aut hentic Vietnamese restaurants to satisfy all your Pho needs (Pho delicious Vietnamese noodle soup wit h beef, chicken or vegetar ian options) Pho Soc Trang (1530 Water Street) located upstairs on t he second floor in downtown Kelowna and Summerland’s Pho Vietnamese (7 702 Prairie Valley Road)

Duck fat is proving to be t he ingredient du jour of 2012 It is gaining in popular ity as a healt hy alternative for fr ying or roasting foods and for t he wonder ful flavor, it adds to almost any dish. Roasted potatoes and vegetables in duck fat are truly sublime Find it locally at Tony’s Meat and Deli (Apple Plaza 1848 Main Street, Penticton)

Finally, Eas ter long weekend is an ideal getaway to t he Okanagan. Bot h Sun Peaks and Big White ski resor ts are open for your last chance to enjoy t he snow and après coc ktails in t he af ternoon sun Or take advantage of t he Okanagan ho t els/bed break f as ts s pr ing seas on rat es and enj oy wine t our ing wit hout t he crowds. This spring accomplish t he Okanagan’s claim to fame a morning game of golf, an af t er noon on t he ski slopes and an ear ly evening wat er ski on t he lake followed by a well deser ved dinner at one of t he Okanagan’s award winning restaurants Happy Easter! Claire Sear