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At Thrifty Foods we believe that you don’t have to dine out to enjoy great tasting beef. Often times the best place to enjoy a succulent steak or prime rib roast is at your home (or on the patio!) Our Triple ‘A’ Sterling Silver Canadian Beef is exclusive to us and guaranteed to be tender, juicy and full of flavour. Try some today!
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I don’t know about you, maybe it’s just me, but it seemed like the winter went on and on, the blossoms were late and it’s been cold With that behind us now we can look forward to the start of food season in BC. Crops are being planted, spot prawns hauled out of the water, market umbrellas are being put up and a new season of BC wines are hitting the shelves Before long I’ll be sipping my Americano or glass of pinot gris on a sunny patio somewhere near the water This time of year is also the season for one of my favourite things the road trip. Despite the sharp rise in gas prices, staying close to home is still a great deal and has plenty to offer the intrepid eater In this issue we feature trips to Sooke, Cowichan Bay, the Comox Valley, and, in a special section, the wonderful food and wine rich area of the Okanagan. Or, if you live in Vancouver why not take the (albeit price for a weekend in Victoria, or vice versa, Islanders can grab a taste of b Vancouver before the tourists arrive Every area of the province has new restaurants, wineries and farms to expl favourites to re visit, and new tastes to be discovered Here’s a thought Ha considered touring the Vancouver Island/Gulf Island wineries? 2009 is quite p the vintage of the decade Or catch one of the festivals coming up? There’s Tofino Ucluelet, the Summer Okanagan Wine Festival, Taste: Victoria's Festival and Wine, The Tofino Food & Wine Festival and BC Spot Prawn Festivals (at le that I know of). Check out more event and calendar listings at www.eatmagaz Good eating! Gary Hynes, Editor
MAYSPRING OKANAGAN WINE FESTIVAL
After watching their vines sleep for months, local BC winemakers and vine yards celebrate the arrival of spring and the waking of the vines with a glass or two of wine Spread over the first ten days in May, the Spring Okanagan Wine Festival busts loose with over 100 events through out the valley Apr 29 May 8 (www.thewinefestivals.com)
BLUSH: A TASTE OF THE ISLAND
Sponsored by the Rotar y Club of Sidney, this event features wine tasting, dinner, silent and live auctions is a fundraiser for local charities: Mount Newton Centre and the Mar y Winspear Centre Grads May 7,4.30 pm at the Mar y Winspear Centre. Tickets: $50, available at the Mar y Win spear Centre
FEAST! TOFINO UCLUELET
A collaboration between the area’s renowned chefs, fishermen and women, ac commodation providers, activity providers and tour operators, Feast! Tofino Ucluelet celebrates the abundance of local produce, seafood and sustainable " boat to table " practices commonly adopted by the area's restaurants May 8 June 4 (www.feastbc.com)
EPIC: SUSTAINABLE LIVING EXPO
Western Canada's largest sustainable lifestyle show and eco marketplace This annual celebration of planet friendly living with over 300 green companies, inspiring ideas, exciting entertainment, and smart shopping in one jam packed weekend. Cooking demonstrations with Vancouver's top Green Table chefs and more May 13 15. (www.vancouver.epicexpo.com/)
This year’s festival is a cooperative effort be tween the town of Cowichan Bay and the Pacific Prawn Fishers Association Special Guest at this year’s event will be Robert Clark, Executive Chef of C Restaurant in Vancouver A family friendly, fun day of chef demos, spot prawn sampling, music and spot prawn sales fresh off the boats. Local eateries will be featuring a spot prawn dish or menu for the week following the event. May 15, 11am 6pm. (www cowichanbayseafood com)
A six course food and wine afternoon ex travaganza May 15 (250 746 4204)
Now in their 8th year, this festival cele brates the marriage of food and wine, with the main event, Grazing in the Gardens, showcasing local culinar y talents and
British Columbia wines, in the beautiful Tofino Botanical Gardens Events of the fes tival support several non profit organiza tions and initiatives, including Tofino Botanical Gardens Foundation, Commu nity Children’s Centre and Tofino’s Com munity Garden, Lighthouse Trail and Multi Use Path (MUP) June 3 5 (www tofino foodandwinefestival com)
This annual fundraiser supporting the ICC’s micro loan fund for farmers aims to engage and inspire the public through their palates, with an afternoon spent savouring the finest food and beverages the Island has to offer June 12 at Fort Rodd Hill (www.iccbc.ca)
As a part of the welcome reception to CCFCC 2011, Tastes of CCFCC Canada will feature 12 food and beverage stations rep resenting regions across Canada, with tastes created by Junior Chefs and their mentors. Each province will host a food and bever age station Included in the CCFCC 2011 are guests from the World Associations of Chefs (WACS), and the American Culinary Federation (ACF) This is an opportunity to mingle with some of the best chefs in the world and sample cutting edge culinar y creations June 12 at the Renaissance Van couver Hotel Harbourside. Tastes of CCFCC Canada is a part of the fundraising efforts for Culinar y Team Canada, junior chefs programs, and culinar y scholarships. (www ccfcc eventbrite com)
For one weekend in June, Vancouver Island hosts the largest shellfish festival on the West Coast Featuring live entertainment, cooking demos by some of the industr y’s top chefs, sea worthy competitions and lots of locally grown, sustainably har vested shellfish June 17 18 in Comox (www.bcshellfishfestival.ca)
A day of special tastings, hourly musical performances, discounts, food & fun in the vineyard June 19, 12 6pm
Starting May 13 The only one of its kind in North America, as authentic as the orig inal Night Markets throughout Asia (www summernightmarket com)
Located at the corner of Third Avenue and Moncton Street in Steveston The 2011 Steveston Farmers and Artisans Summer Market will open Sunday, May 22 and op erate bi weekly until September 18 Market Dates: May 22, June 4, 5, 19; July 3, 17; Aug 7, 21; Sept 4, 18 (www sfam ca)
Bill Jones | Deerholme Farm | 250 748 7450
We received a note in the kitchen at a restaurant I worked that said, "I'm allergic to wheat, sugar, meat, dair y, ocean seafood and anything green please make me something good to eat" I remember we swore a lot and then gave her a great mushroom, barley and herb risotto which she enjoyed immensely I later heard she ate some of her par tner’s desser t loaded with dair y, sugar and wheat
Ken Nakano | Fairmont Empress |250 384 8111
I ser ved the Prince of Brunei 1 kilogram of beluga caviar with several bottles of vintage Champagne Krug while the girls in his ‘harem’ drank Louis XIII Cognac and cola wow! He was a ver y good tipper!
Christabel Padmore | Chuleta by the Little Piggy | 250.483.4171
We had to write on a cake in Korean Hangul While Korean is substantially easier to write than some other Asian languages, the bottom line is that neither Patrick nor I have much of a command of it We took our time and in the end it looked fabulous We were similarly assured by the customer that it said exactly what it was supposed to say
Melbourne O’Brien | Forester’s at Olympic View Golf Club 250.474.3673 ext. 227
Cooking for the Victoria Fish and Game Club annual dinner, we were asked to cook a few interesting items: cougar, raccoon, squirrel, grizzly bear, black bear and beaver to name a few It was a challenge researching recipes, preparing the game, cooking and ser ving it for 180 guests to rave reviews and a re booking of the event for next year
Peter De Bruyn | Sticky Wicket Pub and Restaurant 250.383.7137
A guest asked for an 'extra burnt' steak At the time, I worked with a wood burning grill I grilled the 7 ounce sirloin steak using a steak weight on the hot spot I cooked it for almost 20 minutes until it was a completely flattened, smoldering piece of blackened steak The guest commented, “That chef knows how to cook a steak”
Jena Stewar t | Devour Food 250.590.3231
I guess t he most challenging requests has been to recreate a customer’s wedding desser t : croquem bouche It was not for their anniversar y he just wanted to see if I could do it Price was not an option I still have not fully answered him and I hope he'll forget about it entirely
Matt Rissling | The Marina Restaurant 250.598.8555
We don't pimp ourselves as being ‘gluten friendly’ or ‘allergy aware ’ as I think it should be expected of all restaurants of a cer tain calibre We make nearly ever ything in house from scratch so it's not that hard for us to handle allergy requests as they come up We of ten get ver y challenging ones, such as shellfish or seafood (I mean really we are called ‘the Marina’) but we go the distance to make sure things are handled as best as we can
Hank Kao | Kulu Restaurant 7 78.430.5398
One customer came into the restaurant, who is vegetarian and allergic to wheat and dair y Almost all the dishes on the menu have either dair y, meat, or wheat I created a few dishes from the available food at hand Edamame beans stir fried with herb, salt and pepper For his main dish, I stir fried hear ty green root vegetables, without soy sauce, and paired them with onigiri (rice balls) He lef t happy and satisfied
Aaron Lawrence | Canoe Brewpub 250.361.1940
Allergy requests can be somewhat challenging, especially on a busy Saturday night at Canoe Once I was handed a business card that showed an impressive list of ingredients the guest was allergic to At the time I laughed tr ying to figure out what I could possibly create as it seemed he was allergic to ever y thing Solution: poached halibut, golden beat ,quinoa hash and fresh arugula Having the card right at my fingers made ever yone ' s life easier
Ben Peterson |Heron Rock Bistro 250 383 1545
One diner asked that we make her burger 20 percent smaller as she was apparently on a diet We obliged her request Her guest ordered a triple eggs benedict and ended up giving two of them to the burger lady I'm not sure if she's had any success with weight loss, but I think she might be doing it wrong
Sheen Hogan | Haro’s at Sidney Pier Hotel and Spa 250.655.9700
Ever yday I seem to be faced with more and more allergy and dietar y restriction challenges When cre ating menus, I keep this in mind and I believe through the creativity of our kitchen, our guests leave sat isfied One menu that I truly enjoyed creating was a vegan five course New Year's Eve menu It was a great challenge and quite satisfying knowing that I made their night and, since it was New Year's Eve, maybe even their year!
Alex Teare | Carrot on the Run | 250 714 6924
In the catering industr y there are numerous times where we are challenged by our customers' requests
One of our greatest feats was a 5 course plated dinner for a wedding on Hornby Island The event was under a large tent in a field overlooking the ocean Unfor tunately the June weather didn't cooperate and there was a brutal storm We put up a tent and created a kitchen using barbecues, crab cookers and other cooking sur faces We even managed to heat the entrée plates in chafing dishes
"What is the most interesting or challenging guest request you have ever had?”epicure at large by Jeremy Ferguson
Coffee We can’t get enough of it An estimated 400 billion cups of coffee fly down the global hatch ever y year. We’ll take it any way we can get it: three years ago, Vancouver’s Urban Fare offered Kopi Luwak, at $600 a pound the most expensive coffee in the world It sold out in hours Its charm was that the beans had passed through the digestive tract of paradoxurus hermaphrodites, an Indonesian civet cat
The idea was, the journey through the animal’s guts somehow brings out a certain je ne sais quoi in its flavour.
Travelling in Vietnam a few years ago, my wife and I tried to find chang, which out poos its Indonesian cousin by passing through the intestines of a Vietnamese weasel We weren’t successful but were recently surprised to find an industrially processed facsimile available in Victoria’s Chinatown: the Weasel, it’s called, from Trung Nguyen, the largest coffee company in Vietnam, which now ranks as the second largest coffee producer in the world
The Weasel boasts the customary Vietnamese chocolate underpinnings and like all Vietnamese coffees, goes best with milk. It costs about $10 per pound, a bargain con sidering. It’s always nice to invite close friends over for a cuppa the Weasel.
Coffee originated in Ethiopia, although Yemen across the Red Sea also claims coffee parenthood and has a city named Mocha to boot Yeminis were, however, the first to roast the beans and brew the beverage, and for that we thank them forever
Coffee launched its conquest of the world in the 15th century, The governor of Mecca banned it in 1511 as a distraction to the devout The merchant class raised such a stink, the all powerful Sultan of Cairo had the governor whacked Europe fell head over heels for “the wine of Arabia ” The Roman clergy tried to ban it as a Muslim decadence. Women were prohibited in coffee houses in the Arab world, Europe and England Later the Brits came to think of it as medicine: “Excellent Berry!” wrote a scribe, “which can cleanse the English man’s Stomak of Flegm and expel Giddinesse out of his Head ”
The bean danced through history. Both the American and French Revolutions were hatched in coffee houses. Lloyds of London started out as a coffee house. Seeds smug gled out of Paris in 1727 were the beginning of Brazil’s coffee industry, today the largest in the world
Some years ago, covering the World Food Media Awards in Adelaide, Australia, I fell into conversation with a courtly octogenarian operating the press room machine. Making me an exquisite brew, he introduced himself as Dr Ernesto Illy In 1933, the now deceased Dr Illy invented the first automatic espresso machine and started his life as the world’s premier coffee evangelist I should have kissed his feet
My wife and I drink coffee twice a day, but we also like to cook with it. It brings to cuisine a powerful roasted flavour, occasional bitterness and acidity Its versatility shows in a range of savoury dishes from coffee rubbed cheeseburgers to barbecued chicken and roast lamb My favourite recipe plays espresso three ways as a marinade, dry rub and sauce all at once
Marinate a whole pork tenderloin (preferably one from the Comox Valley’s Tannadice Farm) in a double shot of espresso, half a dozen garlic cloves, a couple of shallots and a quarter cup of sweet soy Two hours on the counter should do it Afterwards, pat it dry Combine a tablespoon of cracked pepper and a tablespoon of espresso coffee grains and rub the mixture vigorously into the pork. Sear the pork on all sides in hot peanut oil, then finish it with five or six minutes in a 325°F oven Add the marinade to two cups of rich tasting homemade stock Reduce the sauce by half and whisk in two tablespoons of cold butter to thicken Slice the pork into juicy pink rounds. Ser ve the sauce on the side. The sweetness of the pork plays off the smokiness and slight bitter quality of the coffee. The mouth shudders with pleasure. There are those among us who might even add a shot of whisky to the leftover sauce, sip it slowly and saunter into the night grinning like
leprechauns
“My favourite recipe plays espresso three ways as a marinade, dr y rub and sauce - all at once.”
Once vilified for being “fattening,” nuts are now being touted by health experts as the “near perfect” food. They deser ve the exaltation; researchers are constantly uncovering surprising health benefits hidden within their shells. The most delightful discovery is that regular consumption of nuts does not lead to weight gain Now that you know you can “go nuts” with near impunity, let’s take a closer look at the health iest players in the “shell game ”
Almonds The almond’s delicate taste belies the nutritional punch it delivers Loaded with vitamin E, riboflavin, calcium, magnesium, copper, manganese, fibre and heart healthy monounsaturated fatty acids, almonds confer a bevy of benefits They provide double barrelled protection against heart disease and diabetes by helping to lower LDL (bad) cholesterol levels and regulating blood sugar and insulin levels. Consumption of almonds has also been shown to reduce C reactive protein a marker of artery dam aging inflammation Two recent studies indicate almonds may offer protection against colon and skin cancer Scientists believe this anti tumour effect may stem from the powerful antioxidants in almonds they’ve identified 20 in the skin alone Try them in baked goods, salads, curries, stir fries and soups or use them to enhance grain dishes, as Vancouver’s West restaurant does. Its risotto with marcona almonds is healthy eating at its most divine Walnuts Unlike almonds, or any other nut, walnuts are a rich source of an omega 3 fatty acid called alpha linolenic acid This is significant because ALA keeps the platelets in your blood from clumping together, effectively reducing the risk for atherosclero sis, high blood pressure, blood clots, heart attack and stroke Omega 3 fatty acids like ALA also benefit your bones and brain. Several studies have shown that diets rich in omega 3s help to reduce bone loss. They also help perk up your noggin. Studies from around the world suggest omega 3s can improve brain function, boost your memory and even brighten your mood Walnuts are chock full of ellagic acid, an antioxidant compound that has been shown to block the metabolic pathways that can lead to cancer Enjoy as little as five or six walnuts per day to reap their health benefits Add them to your morning cereal, baked goods, stuffing, salads and grain dishes Or try my sublime adult popsicle roll a peeled banana in walnut crumbs and freeze heavenly! Pecans Could anything as sinfully rich and scrumptious as pecans be healthy absolutely. Pecans like all nuts are nutrient dense. They contain more than 19 vitamins and minerals In particular, pecans contain several different forms of vitamin E, which protect blood lipids from oxidation They also KO cholesterol, thanks to their plant sterols and high fibre content In plain English they’re heart healthy Consider this according to research published in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, pecans contain more antioxidants than any other nut and rank near the top of the list of all foods that contain the highest antioxidant capacity. All that antioxidant power means pecans may help decrease the risk for cancer, cardiovascular disease and neurological diseases like Alzheimer’s A study done at the University of Massachu setts found that adding pecans to the diet may delay the progression of age related motor neuron degeneration They pair beautifully with squash, roasted red peppers, blue cheeses, ham and dried fruits.
Pistachios These colourful little nuts are not consumed as often as they should be in North America. That’s a shame because not only can they help lower cholesterol, new evidence suggests they can also protect against lung cancer and other malignancies Researchers believe pistachio’s protective power comes from the significantly high amounts of gamma tocopherol they contain Other studies have linked pistachio con sumption with reduced inflammation at the cellular level, and reductions in blood pressure and LDL cholesterol Their slightly smoky crunchiness imparts a taste of the exotic to any dish they’re featured in. Victoria’s Café Ceylon has one of my favourite pistachio treats a guilt free dessert cheekily named “Honeymoon Sweet.”
Nuts are healthy, not fattening and delicious.
It would be hard to imagine a more enthusiastic, dedicated and inspired pair of young entrepreneurs than chef Dan Hayes and his wife Micayla, who recently launched five businesses a communal lunch café, a small shop stocked with unusual house made comestibles, cooking classes, catering, and dining events under the name The Lon don Chef The calm, mellow feeling of the large elegant space echoes the demeanor of its creators. “Our vision was to create a space with commercial cooking capacity that feels like a warm, inviting home,” explains Micayla, “where people learn new techniques by cooking with a professional chef ” Micayla oversees all administrative aspects, while Dan focuses on teaching and creating myriad food products and proj ects It’s the perfect marriage of skill sets
The lunch crowd takes their fresh selection of salads, soups and sandwiches to a stunning 15 foot long table, made from a 500 year old slice of old growth fir, for com munal dining The Pantry carries London Chef brand delights including Hollandaise Reduction, Lobster Reduction and Onion Rosemary Date Chutney, as well as an array of stock and soups and other gourmet goodies.
In the exquisite main room, long white quartz topped counters hold 6 Viking Pro gas ranges, providing 12 cooking stations for class participants Interactive hands on classes are held three times a week Tuesday is Lunch and Learn day Dan also offers private cooking classes and events
Dan is passionate about fishing, fish and seafood. At 18 he began rising through the ranks from commis to head chef of notable fish restaurants in London and Ibiza, Spain He met Victoria born Micayla when she attended his class at Whole Foods, London Dan brings a wealth of teaching and culinary expertise to the enterprise, as well as a heaping helping of charm and charisma.
Upcoming events include classes in partnership with Soup Sisters (soupsisters org), One Table One Word (a 7 course tasting menu based on a single word/ingredient), gourmet boot camps, and a series of regional ethnic feasts “We’re going to push the envelope to give people many unique dining experiences,” Hayes says, enthusiasti cally. “I love talking to people about food, and serving them food, so come in and talk to us about the exciting events we’re offering ”
The London Chef is located at 953 Fort Street, in the building at 947 Fort Street For more in formation phone 250 590 1865 or go to TheLondonChef.com website The Café and Pantry are open 8 AM to 6 PM on weekdays and 10 AM to 5 PM on Saturdays.
Simple preparations are best.
Asparagus is a much loved late spring treat, but is it an aphrodisiac? It is, according to 17th century herbalist Nicholas Culpepper, who wrote that this nutritious, diuretic vegetable “stirs up lust in man and woman ” And in his book The Perfumed Garden for the Soul’s Delectation, 16th century writer Shaykh Nafzawi advised, “He who boils asparagus, and then fries them in fat, and then pours upon them the yolks of eggs with pounded condiments, and eats every day of this dish, will grow very strong for coitus, and find it a stimulant for his amorous desires ” Sounds like a plan worthy of some serious trials
Purple asparagus is the sweetest, most tender type of asparagus. However, it is not widely available and is difficult to grow because it is disease prone Green asparagus, with its sweet, bitter and nutty flavours, is easy to find The thick, smooth stalks of white asparagus have a more delicate, sweeter taste than green asparagus It isn’t a separate variety but just green asparagus shielded from the sun as it grows to prevent it from producing chlorophyll This is done by mounding soil or mulch on the plants daily as they emerge, or by growing plants in a raised bed with an opaque cover This labour intensive process explains why white asparagus is so expensive Most white as paragus sold in B C comes from Peru, the world’s leading exporter of this delicacy For local white and green asparagus, head to Pedrosa’s Asparagus Farm in Cowichan Bay (asparagusfarmplus com) from late April to early June
To prepare white asparagus, trim the lower half inch and peel the brittle spears, tak ing care not to break them Prepare green asparagus by breaking the tough end off each spear (it breaks naturally at its tender point). Tie spears into small bundles with string or scallion strips, and steam upright for five to seven minutes An asparagus pot with a steamer basket cooks asparagus to perfection
Asparagus can be stir fried, roasted or grilled Before roasting or grilling, brush trimmed spears with olive oil, salt lightly and toss to coat. Place spears on a baking sheet and roast in the oven for 10 minutes at 450°F until tender crisp. To grill aspara gus, place spears over medium low coals, turning them frequently for about five min utes, until they are tender and hatched with brown grill marks Alternatively, place asparagus on a baking sheet and grill five minutes
Simple treatments that allow the taste of fresh asparagus to shine through are prefer able for this delectable veggie Marinate cooked spears in vinaigrette made with bal samic, raspberry or sherry vinegar For a quick appetizer, spread a thick layer of cream cheese or hummus on a grilled tortilla, top with asparagus spears, roll up and slice into rounds. Wrap each cooked spear with a slice of lox or prosciutto for a yummy pres entation Try steamed asparagus with a dressing of chopped walnuts, walnut oil, cider vinegar, soy sauce, sugar and pepper If you crave a deep fried fix, check out the recipe for Beer Battered Asparagus with Garlic Aioli at foodnetwork com Spoon some an chovy gremolada, made with finely chopped garlic, lemon zest, parsley and anchovies, over steamed asparagus. Asparagus soup with herbed goat cheese is a sensational dish (foodnetwork com) that flaunts asparagus’ unique flavour
There is an old saying that people who fork up plenty of asparagus will have many lovers Why not spearhead your own asparagus fan club and test out the results on your love life?
Adapted from Bar tolomeo Stefani’s L’Ar te di Ben Cucinare (1662) Ser ves 6 to 8
2 1/2 lb asparagus
Salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste
3 Tbsp butter
1/4 cup grated Gruyère cheese
3/4 cup shredded prosciutto ham
3 eggs, beaten
3 Tbsp grated Parmesan cheese
Cook trimmed asparagus in boiling salted water until just tender; drain Cut stalks into 1 inch pieces Return to t he pan and sprinkle wit h spices Add butt er When butt er has melt ed, tur n asparagus into a butt ered 9 inc h pie plat e Spr inkle wit h Gruyère, cover with prosciutto and pour eggs on top Sprinkle with Parmesan and bake in a 350°F oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or until eggs are set and a golden crust forms on top
This refreshing and sophisticated drink is the perfect accompaniment to Asian-inspired cuisine. It’s also rich in antioxidants, and jasmine uplifts and rejuvenates the mind.
Pour 2 cups hot water (brought just to the boil) over 2 tbsp. Moonlight on the Grove—Silk Road Jasmine Green Tea Steep 3 min. and strain into a heatproof jug. Refrigerate until cold, then combine with 2 cups chilled lemonade Makes 1 litre.
For more delicious recipe ideas, visit www.silkroadtea.com or attend one of our tea workshops at the Silk Road Tea Tasting Bar.
www.silkroadtea.com 1624 Government St. Victoria Chinatown
F o r t h e y h a v e r a is e d s m a l l - b a t c h s a us a g emaking to a culinar y art.
When I was a kid, a boiled wiener stuffed into a pillow soft roll with a squish of yellow mustard was the hallmark of hot dog Fridays (elementar y school, summer camp), birthday parties and baseball games And a couple of fried links with over easy eggs fuelled many a Saturday morning tummy Still, a lot of folks thought of fresh sausages as plebian, cheap and circumspect An old saying goes, “Laws are like sausages Best not to see them made ” But not in my backyard
My mother disdained industrial hot dogs and cello packed sausages No tube steak Fridays at my Catholic school either. Fridays were meatless.
What mum did make for my birthday parties were sausage rolls from fresh minced pork. She bought plump beef and pork sausages, too, from the local butcher for a weekly feast of bangers and mash These fat torpedoes would spit in the pan trying to bust out of their tight skins (Hence the word “banger ”) Settled atop a bed of creamy mash and a boat of rich onion gravy to pour over the lot, it was a favourite childhood meal Come summer, our Italian neighbours spent evenings grilling handmade, coarse grained pork sausages on brick monoliths The Germans across the road intro duced us to chunky bratwurst with their version of potato salad and homemade sauer kraut. The Irish clan cooked a cracker jack fry up of beans, eggs, tomatoes and black pudding (a type of sausage made with congealed pork blood mixed with oats) which, admittedly, took a bit of getting used to But we knew from whence our sausages came Sausage making goes back centuries Almost all cultures lay claim to some sort of sausage The word derives from the Latin “salsus,” meaning salted Originally, sausages were a legitimate concoction of tissue, organs, blood and fat Handmade in small batches, they were an economical and nutritious way to use the entire animal It all went awry with the advent of machinery. Gristle, bone plus lord knows what was ground into grey paste and stuffed into artificial casings. People came to scorn these mechanically “engineered” sausages, particularly hot dogs (Italian and Spanish sausages, fresh or dried, however, seemed to escape ridicule )
Today’s skeptics need not fear the sausage Thankfully, artisan butchers and renaissance chefs have brought the sausage full circle, setting up shop in boroughs and burbs everywhere They slice, dice and chop by hand impeccable ingredients (no binders, no by products) and use natural casings Mindful of today’s tastes, they avoid organ meats and blood, unless intentionally for, say, silky liver sausage or blood sausages like black pudding or boudin noir. And the creative potential for mixing and matching of fresh herbs with natural spices is fathomless These folk have raised small batch sausage making to a culinary art Imagine the aroma and sizzle of venison and blueberr y sausages, or lamb, onion and Guinness grilled over an open flame and washed down with a pint of the same Oyama Sausage Company on Granville Island makes chicken sausages spiked with lemon and dill; at 3P Natural & Exotic Meats in North Vancouver, duck sausage is blessed with sweet ginger. It’s comforting to know that Vancouver still hails the traditional European sausage. Columbus Meats, Cioffi’s, Bosa and Rocky’s Meats turn out traditional spicy Italian salsiccia and Spanish chorizo. Park Royal shoppers flock to Black Forest Delicatessen for German bratwurst
Quite possibly (in Vancouver) it was Rob Belcham (Campagnolo, Refuel) who pioneered making artisinal sausage; now a growing number of local chefs seek out rosy fleshed organic pigs rimmed with snow white fat They look to top quality sea salts and fresh herbs for making sausages in their own pristine quarters
These lovely links share the stage with organic eggs, crusty bread and homemade preserves on the breakfast plate. Kate McTavish, confessed sausage fanatic, has plans to send hikers and fishers on their way after a feed of handcrafted game sausages at the newly resurrected (and reinvented) Fergie’s breakfast and lunch café in Squamish
Victoria’s sausage fans can fill their kitchens on a misty day with a cassoulet of Choux Choux Charcuterie’s Toulouse sausage and fresh foraged island morels, or bake a Cumberland coil from Orr’s Family Butchers with cider, onions and apples, to serve with creamy garlicky spuds for an up to date twist on bangers and mash Galloping Goose Sausage Company’s gently spiced pork links kick morning eggs way up. And at home, sweet Italian sausage tossed with broccoli rabe can be on the table in under thirty minutes
Kulu’s bacon wrapped enoki (straw) mushrooms with tonkatsu sauce and Japanese mayonnaise are divine. Usually, bacon clothes something firm, like a scallop or tenderloin, dates or even a water chestnut; not a small delicate bouquet of tender limp limblike fungi The bacon was still soft, and the mushrooms gave way to the teeth one by perfect one It was a thoughtful little shift away from the expected.
This was my first introduction to Kulu, Fernwood’s Asian fusion restaurant
There are so many good finds in this proactive and proud neighbourhood, and Kulu is no exception. Rather it’s proof that Fernwood should stop keeping secrets from the rest of us
Right across from the Belfry Theatre, in Gladstone Square, Kulu is decorated with a few small tea sets at the entrance and Paul Shepherd’s graceful and soft landscape paintings. Sydney Liu, hostess/co owner, quips, “Bring a friend Don’t eat alone!” She reminds me of the two years I spent in Taiwan, where eating was always an event to be shared Next I sampled the edamame with garlic, pepper and stir fried shallots, the kimchi tofu, the sake salmon and a salt and pepper chicken not yet on the menu The salmon was floral and tender, the chicken, which came with rice parcelled onto nori to “roll your own” if you like, was, again, moist, flavourful and tasty All presentations were elegant and deliberate Although I sampled a lot of food at this lunch, there was no call to unbuckle my thick brown leather belt
Kulu also offers a selection of signature cocktails, includ ing the sake naked with sake, gin and lychee; the plum tea with plum wine and green tea; and the soju ball with soju, vodka, orange juice and melon liquor They also have a few local beers, including Driftwood’s white bark, which pairs very well with Asian food.
I returned for dinner a few nights later I confess I tucked into the bacon wraps and the edamame once again. But this time, I tried the spicy chicken salad, the tsurai chicken steak and the unagi cake with the fried rice patty, tamago and avocado A healthy slice of unagi, smoked eel, arrived aloft a large rice patty adorned with a hint of wasabi and sauce It was decadent. I have enjoyed unagi at sushi restaurants, but not this much, literally and metaphorically This was Kulu’s showstopper The chicken steak was lovely, the salad was good but that unagi was quite something
Sydney and her husband, Hank Kao, co owner and cook, are passionate about Taiwanese food but believe that Kulu, as a fusion restaurant exploring Korean, Japanese and Taiwanese cuisines, is more accessible to the tastes of Victoria. But they are open to hosting parties of people who would like to sample true Taiwanese cuisine. Some of the best of it tests western notions of what parts of the animal should be eaten My thoughts? Western notions be damned! Taiwanese food is excellent and something that Sydney and Hank could share with impunity.
On Tuesdays, Kulu has edamame, bacon wraps and a beer for $10, and on Wednesdays they have a curr y chicken nugget, kimchee tofu and beer for $12 Check it out Now I mean it. ’Tis good. Or “hn how” (which is my poor attempt at scripting Mandarin and means “very good” in English) Sydney is an excellent host The food, company and ambience are lovely and the price point quite reasonable A perfect local or pre theatre haunt.
Kulu, which is an onomatopoeic word for both a stomach grumbling and the sound of swallowing beverage or food, is a wonderful addition to Fernwood Enjoy your own kulu there Gillie Easdon
#101-721 Station Ave | Langford, BC | 250.391.ME AT (6328).
When I was asked to investigate the new burger menu at Smoken Bones Cookshack, I began to rally an eating caravan I chose seven hungry friends to accompany me to Smoken Bones’ Langford location in hopes that they would supplement my own formidable appetite
Ken Hueston, chef and owner of this meat bar, who has championed Island bounty since the restaurant’s 2007 opening, recently changed his menu to reflect his kitchen’s recent forays into burgerdom Hueston wants to combine the classic French technique, attention to quality, and his big Southern flavors to provide the best of island butchery
“We wanted to utilize things like burgers… just star t doing it old school style on the flat top,” Hueston explained “On the grill you don’t celebrate the end product. Our burger is like the flat top version of confit the meat cooks in its own fat ”
Because Hueston makes his own burger mix fresh, you can specify your patty’s doneness as you’d do a steak Top your rare burger with Smoken Bones’ own bacon, a handful of saucy pulled pork, and a bubbling slice of their house smoked cheddar, and you’ll be hold ing a celebration of Vancouver Island farms and culinary dedication: AK A, the Thunda Burger
“Oh, we sell copious amounts of those babies,” Ken chuckled
Probably because everything but the bun was tem pered and perfected in house. Choose two sides to accompany the big burger and you’ll be eating a combination of Victoria’s finest seasonable products, translated for the Smoken Bones menu by Hueston’s vision
If burgers aren’t your thing, a full barbecue menu tempts. Two of our group were experienced Bones eaters, and suggested that the BBQ Taster would be a foolish under taking for only two They described the platter heaped with beef ribs and brisket, pulled pork and ribs, and garnished with three sides of choice
“We go through 8 10 thousand pounds of meat a month.” Ken’s word echoed like in my head. We decided to split it five ways I was advised to accompany the platter with vegetables
“ The point is about progression,” Ken explained. “The new menu is more about celebrating the artistry of charcuterie, and cooking with meat ” Katherine Fritz
621 Cour tney Street, Victoria, BC | 250-386-2010 | www.primesteak.ca | attached to the Magnolia Hotel, but with its own separate entrance at the corner of Broughton and Gordon Streets
Prime Steak House is celebrating its second anniversary, a considerable achievement in a city awash in pulled pork, lunch and pot stickers While Prime’s raison d’etre may be good quality steak, this is not your father’s steakhouse Part of Prime’s success may be that while the menu does contain the expected steaks, it also offers plenty of other choices such as local halibut, rack of lamb, tuna and pasta dishes and thus appeals to even the non steak lovers in our lives (Take that other, now defunct steakhouses!)
On a recent Tuesday night visit I saw a restaurant buzzing with activity no doubt a mix of business visitors from the nearby hotels and locals looking for a relaxing night out. I took a food writer friend with me and, after being seated, we ordered drinks and took in the room Arriving guests are greeted promptly as either owner Bill Almeida or Maître d' Trevor Overbury are always on hand The restaurant is divided between a comfortable, relaxed bar area and the multi level restaurant proper which is quieter and lined with intimate booths. Those looking for a respite from the noisy, tight spaced café approach currently in vogue will find spacious seating and a refined ambience
Although tempted by the variety of dishes, we were both drawn to Prime’s signature steak: the in house, dry aged, bone in New York ($36). This was the only steak on the menu to have received extra aging We peppered our competent ser ver (Stephanie Pedneault) with questions Why was only one steak given the extra aging? (We’re short on cooler space but we’re expanding), Where did the beef come from? (High River, Alberta), What’s a Montague Broiler? (Grills the steaks top and bottom simultaneously and we have one in the kitchen). Who’s cooking tonight? (Chef Bruce Batty handles the kitchen ) Stephanie took our “grilling” in stride and answered all our
“tonight’s going to be a good night.” a story in every
queries with patience and knowledge and a smile.
For appetizers we ordered freshly shucked raw Kushi oysters ($14), tiny, slurpable and briny; and the Wedge Salad ($10) a thick, crunchy wedge of iceberg lettuce, bacon, and diced tomato doused with a good, blue cheese dressing Steaks are the stars here, and no wonder Weighing in at 15 ounces and nearly two inches thick, ours arrived perfectly cooked to medium rare, well seasoned and with lovely, crusty exteriors The difference between a dry aged steak and the others on the menu is an additional 14 28 days of aging that produces a more pronounced beef flavour But it also loses some of its moisture in the process This results in denser meat with a some what chewier bite. While I love it, it may not be for everyone. Those looking for a juicier steak should opt for the well marbled rib steak ($32), tried on another occasion and also loved Our steaks came with crisp frites, carrots, squash, red beets and brassica (a veg similar to a mild rapini brought in from Vantreight Farms in Saanich) The wine list offers plenty of steak friendly choices. We went with a bottle of California cab in the middle price range that stood up well to the beef. By the glass go for the Avalon cab from Napa
Since we couldn’t quite manage to finish our steaks, we skipped dessert and opted for whiskies and then left the restaurant with our identical brown, take out boxes, already anticipating our lunches for the next day. Gary Hynes
NOW161 Station Street | Duncan | 250.597.0 313
Recently on the night time streets of downtown Duncan, an oasis of red twinkling lights led me to the welcoming doors of NOW NOW is an acronym for Noodles of the World, which is just what’s on the menu from Asia to Italy With encouragement from owner/server Sarah Barnes, my companion and I asked her to surprise us with her favourite sharing dishes.
This quickly prompted a multi course presentation that began with seared Ahi tuna and perfectly cooked Salt Spring Mussels, abundantly sauced with delicious Thai Red Curry Soon our table was also laden with Sticky Baby Back Ribs paired and their Hoi sin Mushroom Wok bowl. Not for the faint of taste buds, the ribs were crisp with melt in your mouth intense chili plum flavour, while the Hoi sin dish was noodle rich, standing out as a comforting pairing Next came their outstanding Moo Shu Lettuce Wraps with wide noodle papers presented beautifully in a bamboo warming basket, accompanied by a plate of flavourful fillings including mango chicken, Hoi son duck, pickled cabbage and papaya salad with a heap of delightful micro greens We also gratefully accepted some helpful instructions on how to wrap them for ease of eating Next a bowl of Thai Green Curr y Noodles warmed our palates, but only for a few bites since we had intentions for dessert. And what a dessert it was too! Smooth chocolate mousse with house made raspberr y coulis, whipped cream and berries the perfect ending to a perfect meal
All dishes were generous in portion, plenty of flavour and a superb helping of hospitality. I also have to mention the conviviality that is created in this cozy, eclectic red room. Small tables all close together ensures exchange between diners creating a feeling similar to the communal dining trend taking place in big city locales When asking Sarah the secret to her success she is quick to credit chef Derrick McFarland and a close knit team, which she says, operates as a family No wonder we felt all the comforts of home while feasting at NOW! Karma Brophy
I Kyu Noodles | 564 Fisgard St. | 250 388 7828
In Chinatown, an eclectic, yet authentic experience awaits at I Kyu Noodles. Authen tic because owner Carlos Chan, a third generation noodle maker, is a popular noodle manufacturer in town Eclectic because a conversation with the owner reveals that he has chosen his pan Asian dishes using, in part, the organizing principle of recipes from women he has dated or married Hence the Malaysian coconut prawn noodles, a recipe that comes from his girlfriend’s grandmother. Presumably, this dish reflects the woman’s beauty, for it is a joyful tumble of broccoli, prawns, red peppers and plump corn kernels, topped with a wedge of lime, all in a creamy coconut sauce Happily, Carlos was also once married to a Japanese woman whose father was a chef From this chef he learned many skills, including how to make a complex and intricate miso with flavours of honey and garlic. This is available to buy at the restaurant, and I will be bringing some home, along with his obsession creating ginger dressing The owner explores his own Chinese roots with the addition of Dan Dan Mein, a plain looking but tasty dish of thin noodles with spicy vegetables and marinated pork, as well as Spicy Shanghai Wontons, which are bright with fresh flavours. No foodie can leave without trying the Juicy Buns, especially if, like me, you are galvanized by Carlos’s kindly meant words to me: “Few, pardon me, white people order it ” There’s a system for eating a Juicy Bun First, nibble a little hole in the doughy wrapper Angle your bun upward so the juice inside doesn’t spurt out. Next, put your lips to the hole and suck the juice out Finally, pop the bun into your mouth and enjoy the fresh, savoury pork filling Warning: I Kyu is open to 3:00 p m only every day except Saturday, when it’s open until 5:30 p m
Amrikko’s | 298 Island Hwy. | 250 744 3331
Why, oh why, do people go to chain restaurants for overpriced BLTs when they could go to an Indian restaurant with great ser vice and no dish (other than those with prawns) more expensive than $12? Amrikko’s in View Royal has positioned itself bril liantly. One of very few restaurants in the area, it is both affordable and family friendly. Manager Sonya seems truly devoted to groups and families and provides friendly coaching for non Indian groups seeking assistance She even tells reluctant children that chicken pakoras are chicken nuggets; she serves them with ketchup to validate the deceit, and I have to say that I like that about her. These were the best vegetable pako ras I’ve had, mainly because they were not at all oily. The crisp, lightly salted exterior
gave way to a soft puree sparkling with coriander Onion Bhazia is apparently another appetizer favoured by the Indian clientele A mound of sweet, soft onions in a light, thin, crispy batter is presented with both a mint and tamarind chutney for dipping delicious. I can never resist a butter chicken, even though the food snob in me knows its roots are more British than Indian This one had a perfect balance of tomatoes and cream The spinach paneer was a revelation to me The cheese is made on site and is dense and creamy; it seems the more rubbery, watery versions I’ve had elsewhere have probably been frozen. A lamb curry was redolent of onions and tomatoes, and a rus set coloured lamb rogan had a complex flavour with ginger peeking through, as well as a little touch of sweetness The naan was a bit dry for me, but that one small dis appointment was made up for by the surprise of the kulfi for dessert This mixture of ground pistachios, almonds and cream is served popsicle style and manages to be both decadent and fun at the same time. Two final tips to prepare you for your visit: if it’s a weekend, make a reservation; and, if you want the fully authentic Indian spicing, specify that you want to be treated like an Indian table as servers make note of who’s doing the ordering
The package states, “100% Vancouver Island farmed, fished & foraged” and may be the first commercially sold, filled pasta in our area to aim so high The idea for this new line of frozen, stuffed pastas comes from Matt Horn a chef in the Cowichan Valley (ex The Masthead) who wanted only local ingredients in his ravioli like filled pasta products.
The pastas are made with whole wheat, free range eggs and various fillings Two we especially liked were both sourced from Cowichan Bay Seafood: the spot prawn and the Dungeness crab Both had good sized chunks of seafood and plenty of soul satisfy ing flavour. Surprisingly for a ww pasta, the noodle was tender and held together reason ably well during cooking. We also tried the Quist beef and the vegetarian Valley potatoes, with Hilary’s Fromage Frais, Mitchell Farm onion and V I garlic and V I salt No website Available at Ottavio and Niagara Grocery
The Exceptional Eats awards posted in the March issue make one thing very clear: pulled pork is polarizing Some people feel it’s passé, other people love it I suggest not passing judgment until you’ve tried the pulled pork sandwich on Bistro 28’s lunch menu, which rings in at $12 It differs from others I’ve tried in that it’s not drowning in sauce Instead, shredded braised shoulder of pork is delicately seasoned with maple and chipotle and comes with a cup of baked beans perfectly flavoured with grainy mustard and molasses as well as crisp salted French fries. While you’re at Bistro 28 for lunch, it’s tempting to try some items that are slightly pricier, but certainly fairly priced for the quality Sharing an appetizer and a rich entrée is the way to get the best value The salmon chowder for $7 is pure velvet Its strength is in its simplicity Onions add natural sweetness, and the flavours of the salmon and small chunks of potato each stand out. This comes with two grilled slices of French bread. Sticking with the seafood theme, the moules frites, in an intoxicating maple chipotle cream sauce, is served with fries and a housemade tomato coulis The chicken and foie gras meatloaf, for $16, is also rich enough to be shared They call it a meatloaf, but you could just as well call it a terrine because of its texture. Cooked sous vide to preserve moisture, this “loaf” is tender and elegant and does not stint on the foie gras The creamy porcini and roasted mushroom gravy makes this dish transporting A sunflower sprout and fennel salad on the side is a light and airy counterpoint This dish is a reflection of the atmosphere of Bistro 28 elegant with a twist of fun.
The Victoria Downtown Far mers’ Market, the Island Chefs’ Collaborative and Market Square have partnered to bring the downtown core a series of summer markets beginning May 22 Find the best in locally produced meat, cheese, bread, honey, sprouts, mushrooms, salt and preser ves with the ICC providing cooking demonstrations for the public on the 4th Sunday of each month throughout the summer Admission is free and suitable for the entire family. www.victoriapublicmarket.com
11am 3pm May 22, June 26, July 24, Aug 28
62 E. Cordova St. | Vancouver | www.nicli-antica-pizzeria.ca
do
or take out, and don’t even talk to
What he does do is create some truly fine super thin crust pizzas in the authentic Napoletana style What does that entail? Think Type ‘00’ Caputo flour for the dough, peeled San Marzano tomatoes for the sauce, simple, fresh toppings and most important an authentic, wood burning oven made in Naples. The last is essential, as the pizzas must be cooked at extremely high heat for less than 90 seconds in a wood burning oven to achieve the desired texture and consistency of both dough and toppings and to be considered authen tic McCraig even journeyed to California to take the Vera Pizza Napoletana Americas Association course as the first step in getting his pizzas certified by the Italian authority. (There’s only one restaurant in Canada with VPN certification at the moment Pizzeria Libretto in Toronto )
As for the pizza, the benchmark for any pie joint is their Margherita Nicli’s is beauti ful My pie had a crust decked out with the requisite bubbles around the edges, a soft, chewy texture that went whoompf on the first bite, and the foldability of a soft pita. The fresh mozza and whole basil leaves were present in just the right amounts, and the sauce sang some sweet notes The Funghi was another good choice, but the Bianca was brilliant, with roasted garlic and onions over the parmigiano, oregano and gor gonzola base that was swapped for the usual tomato. I did manage to snag a take away of the Quattro Formaggi, but only because we had just eaten three pies in house I was warned they don’t last long, but it wasn’t a problem, as I couldn’t help quickly scarfing down the heavenly melding of fresh mozza, parmigiano, gorgonzola and emmental in the car on the way home. Anya Levykh
brunch in a with Chef Dino Renaerts.
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'Tis the season for spot prawns. While they look like sea aliens with those big h e a d s f u l l o f s p i n d l y a n t e n n a e , t h e i r p l u m p b o d i e s a r e f u l l o f s u c h s w e e t , mellow sea flavour it’s easy to get past their odd appearance! The window for e n j o y i n g t h i s d e l i c a c y i s r e l a t i v e l y s h o r t , s o r o l l u p y o u r s l e e v e s a n d prepare to feast often.
Pistou is a French style pesto made with fresh basil and often a hint of tomatoes Unlike its Italian counterpart, pistou doesn’t have any nuts
Mince 2 garlic cloves Chop or finely tear 2 bunches of basil (no stems) to measure about 4 cups Peel, seed and chop 2 plum tomatoes Whirl in a food processor, then gradually whirl in ½ to ¾ cup good quality olive oil Stir in ½ cup grated cheese (Go Local and tr y Montana from Salt Spring Island Cheese Com pany). Taste and season with sea salt.
Start with a fabulous baguette (Try Fol Epi!) Slice, then lightly brush with olive oil. Spread out on a baking sheet and toast to light golden in preheated 375F oven. Don’t forget to toast both sides.
Melt a knob of butter in a large wide frying pan over medium heat. Add 1 minced shallot and cook until translucent, 5 min utes. Increase heat to high and add shell on prawns. Stir fry until almost cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes Splash in about 1/3 cup white wine and sauté until liquid has evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes Dish up while warm NOTE: Depending on pan size you may have to cook prawns in 2 or more batches Don’t overcrowd pan
This dish is a hands on snack. You’re gonna get messy between peeling the shells and dragging the prawns through the pistou plus the oily toasts..... you’ll be needing a napkin, or two or three.
This is an updated twist on classic cold shrimp salad Dish it up snack style for fun interactive eating
Peel, seed and chop ½ English cucumber. Place in a blender and whirl with ¼ cup gin (Tr y Victoria Gin!), 2 Tbsp rice vinegar and 2 Tbsp chopped fresh dill Strain through a mesh sieve, then taste and season with sea salt. Stir in more dill.
Place shell on prawns in a large bowl Pour boiling water overtop Cover and let stand to cook through, 4 to 5 minutes Drain prawns, then when cool enough to handle, peel shells. Place prawns in a serving bowl and toss with some of the gin vinaigrette Refrigerate until well chilled
Lettuce
Mix it up tr y bitter but flavourful radicchio, slim spears of romaine hearts or leaves of buttery Boston lettuce.
Place prawns in a small bowl Dish up remaining vinaigrette in another bowl (stir in a spoonful of mayo to make it creamy, if you wish). Dunk prawns in dressing, then cradle it to your mouth wrapped in a blanket of lettuce. Sprinkle with sea salt and sip on a gin and tonic!
This dish looks best with the dramatic prawn heads on, but be sure to peel the tails so eating is easy. Gently cooking the prawns in butter is just the ticket for any delicate seafood It results in an elegant flavour and smoother than silk texture.
Chop 1 large head of cauliflower, 1/2 fennel bulb and 1 peeled potato Place in a saucepan and pour in 2 cups of milk (don’t worry if everything isn’t submerged). Bring to a boil, then reduce heat. Cover and gently simmer until fork tender Strain and save liquid Puree veggies, adding reserved liquid until smooth yet thick. Be decadent and whirl in a knob of butter too!
In a fr ying pan, bring 1/2 cup white wine to a boil with 1 chopped shallot and 1 minced garlic clove. Boil for 1 minute, then reduce heat to low Gradually whisk in 3/4 cup cold butter, cut into small cubes It’s best to add cubes a few at a time and be sure they’ve emulsified before adding more.
Peel prawn tails, but leave heads on, if you wish. Add prawns to warm butter sauce in frying pan and gently poach until cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes Do not boil or sauce will separate Stir in a handful of chopped cilantro to finish.
What to Do Spoon cauliflower puree onto plates Top with prawns, then drizzle butter sauce overtop Be daring and suck out the goodness from the prawn heads
Mushy prawns? It’s not in your head it’s actually the prawn’s head Super soft prawns are the result of the head being left on too long after the prawn has died Once the shrimp dies it releases an enzyme that softens the tissues in the body, turning the flesh mushy For best results buy live prawns To remove heads, grip either side of the neck joint, then twist Save heads to use to for stock very flavourful. Or if you’re squeamish, just buy prawns with heads already removed.
If the 2011 Chinese Restaurant Awards were any indication, there is a large and rapidly growing segment of the Greater Vancouver dining public interested in more than free spring rolls with their chow mein when it comes to Chinese cuisine And that segment is more ethnically diverse and food aware than one might suppose
Both amateur and professional food enthusiasts are developing a connoisseur’s approach fuelled in recent years by the above mentioned awards towards the various regional styles and genres of Chinese cuisine But this new savvy revolves around more than a discussion over who has the best xiao long bao (Cantonese style soupy dumplings) in town (Lin’s, without a doubt). There is a desire to see in Chinese cuisine what has become common in other regional styles an embracing of local and sustain able ingredients, a creativity in execution, innovation on classic dishes and the pairing of all of the above with interesting wines and cocktails Here are a few restaurants that are reinventing Chinese cuisine one dish and one drink at a time
This restaurant can rightly be called the instigator of the modern Chinese food move ment in Vancouver When Andrew Wong first opened this bistro in Chinatown over a decade ago with its “modern Chinese” menu, no one understood what that meant at first, but the confusion quickly dissipated A consistent focus on “ethically conscious” eating meant that from the start, the menu only featured local, seasonal and sustainable ingredients And although the restaurant, in accordance with classic Chinese cuisine principles, almost completely avoids the use of dairy, the execution and style of the dim sum style dishes are flavoured with a West Coast aesthetic that results in some astonishing creations Sloping Hill pork and B C spot prawn siu mai are a tasty twist on the classic dumpling, as is the Fraser Valley lamb potsticker with truffled pea puree Haida Gwaii coho salmon tartare and Yarrow Meadows duck confit terrine offer successful Asian twists on classic French favourites, and a dairy free lemongrass brûlée with vanilla sugar is better at inducing sweet dreams than a long pull on a hookah An extensive selection of vegetarian options, combined with the dairy free atmosphere, mean that even vegans can eat more than half the menu without qualms Wash it down with a drink like the Twisted Fashion (Maker’s Mark, muddled orange, orange bitters, ginger syrup) to finish on a spicy sweet note.
117 W Pender St | 604 642 2882 | www wildricevancouver com
This “Chinese brasserie” is, in many ways, a younger cousin to Wild Rice, opening in Chinatown just over a year ago. The menu, orchestrated by owner Tannis Ling (former keeper of the bar at Chambar) offers similar assurances about hormone free meats, free range eggs and seasonal sustainable ingredients, but there the similarities end Items like “crispy fishies” (tiny, whole anchovies served with roasted peanuts and chilies), shao bing (textured sesame flatbread with braised pork butt and Asian pear) and soft steamed Mantou buns topped with beef shortrib in hoisin, pickled cucumber and scallions, all speak to Asian street food traditions The cocktails are Ling’s own creations, simple and muddled with herbs from the local apothecary shop 163 Keefer St | 604 688 0876 | www bao bei ca
Despite the two previous mentions, it is not in Chinatown that one finds the majority of the Chinese culinar y vanguard That honour is reser ved for Richmond and such restaurants as Jade Seafood, which has quietly been using sustainable and local seafood for years long before either of those terms became buzzwords Executive chef Tony Luk was named Chinese Chef of the Year in the recent awards, and for good reason In this traditional Cantonese restaurant with its linen draped tables and muted walls, some of the best and most innovative classical fare is served up in traditional and occasionally not so traditional style. “Live” (and local) seafood like Dungeness crab, rock cod, geoduck and prawns are cooked in your choice of sauce The award winning Grandpa Smoked Chicken is prepared in a wok with tea leaves and fried rice and served cold in a gingery green onion sauce 8511 Alexandra Rd., Richmond | 604 249 0082 | www.jaderestaurant.ca
A few blocks away, in the Radisson Hotel, Red Star is turning out dishes like Dungeness crab with wild rice (for which it received the Critics’ Choice Award for Most Innovative Dish), chilled geoduck with chanterelles and more classic dishes like barbecue duck (which was a winning dish last year) The restaurant is also known for its innovative dim sum, like the boneless duck webs with jellyfish or steamed baby octopus in garlic sauce
8181 Cambie Rd., Richmond | 604 270 3003 | no website
Whether reeled in from the icy waters of Port Renfrew or ordered from the local grocer, nothing compares to the taste of fresh halibut.
by DENISE MARCHESSAULT Photography by C AROLI NE WESTHalibut's delicate flavours shine in this light aromatic broth
Poached Halibut in a Light Fish Broth Try a medium bodied white with fresh acid and a citrus edge. You need something with a little body for the halibut, and the lemon notes will par tner with both the spring veg and seviche
A Southern Rhone Marsanne/Roussanne blend, or a quality Por tuguese Vinho Verde would work well.
The first time my husband returned from a chartered fishing trip I was unprepared for such a big haul and most of our precious halibut ended up hastily wrapped and tossed into the freezer I vowed the next time the “boys” went fishing I would be ready to celebrate the Big Catch with a fish feast for family and friends
If you’re not an angler and you’ve only seen pristine fillets, steaks or cheeks at your local grocer, you might not know that halibut are curious looking flatfish with cartoonish eyes that migrate to one side of their bodies Halibut have garnered some peculiar nicknames: the younger, tastier fish in the 10 to 25 pound range are referred to as “chickens,” while the older fish, some weighing hundreds of pounds, are referred to as “hippos” and “barn doors.” Whatever size halibut you bring home plan to use it right away
Fresh is always best but frozen at sea trumps the “fresh” fish that has been lingering too long in your refrigerator (or your grocer’s display case) If you’ve hauled in a catch too large to be enjoyed immediately, consider having your halibut processed: vacuum packed and flash frozen the day it’s caught. (Most charters will arrange this for you.) It’s pricey, about $1.50 per pound, but it will preserve the quality of your fish
I’ve included three easy recipes to make the most of your precious catch: a zesty seviche appetizer, a flavourful fish stock and a lightly poached halibut in an aromatic fish broth Seviche is a refreshing appetizer made of raw fish marinated in citrus juice It can be made with just about any type of fresh seafood, but I especially love it made with halibut. The acid in the citrus juice cures or “cooks” the fish, transforming its texture from soft and translucent to firm and opaque In my cooking classes, there’s always a student who’s squeamish about eating raw fish until the first hesitant bite Seviche is a delicious revelation! Served in bowls or glasses, with tortillas or pita chips, seviche makes an easy, no fuss starter.
As with all stews and broths, the flavour is in the stock Halibut bones and collars make the best fish stock imaginable Fortunately, most grocers and fish stores will set aside the bones if you give them a bit of notice Making fish stock is easy: simply combine the cleaned fish bones with cold water, white wine and vegetables, and simmer for about 30 minutes. You’ll be rewarded with a tasty, milky coloured fish stock that will enhance any seafood recipe (think risotto, bouillabaisse, fish croquettes and such) Stock freezes beautifully; you might as well make a huge batch
Fresh halibut is so delicious it doesn’t require much tinkering Seasoning it with salt and pepper and poaching it in your flavourful fish stock is an ideal way to appreciate halibut’s delicate flavour Poaching fish is easy; just remember to remove it from the simmering stock before it’s fully cooked. Residual heat is often the culprit of rubbery, overcooked fish
So, the next time the “boys” come swaggering home with an ice chest full of halibut, be prepared to celebrate with friends A quick email or tweet: “Huge Halibut Haul Come Hungry!” should do the trick. After all, nothing goes better with a good fish tale than an old fashioned fish feast.
2 2 pounds (1 kilogram) fresh halibut, skin removed and cut into six portions
3 shallots, diced
4 Tbsp unsalted butter, divided in half
½ cup white wine
6 cups home made halibut stock
1 fresh sprig thyme
1 Thai chili pepper, seeds removed
Salt and pepper, to taste
12 ounces (360 g) fresh green beans, topped, tailed and blanched*
¾ cup fresh peas, blanched*
1 Tbsp butter (for the blanched vegetables)
Fresh dill or fennel sprigs for garnish
In a wide, straight sided saucepan (deep enough to poach the halibut) saute the shallots in 2 Tbsp butter until translucuent. Increase the heat and add the white wine; cook until the wine has evaporated and almost no liquid remains. Add the fish stock, thyme and chili pepper and bring the liquid to a gentle simmer (Do not allow the liquid to boil )
Generously season the halibut pieces with salt and pepper and add them to the simmering stock; the liquid should cover at least three quarters of the halibut (the top portion of the halibut will be steamed) Poach, loosely covered, for about 7 minutes To test the fish for doneness, make a small slit with a paring knife in the thickest part of the fillet; all but the center of each piece should be opaque Remove the fish before it is completely done. Transfer the portions to warmed soup bowls and tent with foil (The residual heat will continue cooking the fish )
Bring the poaching stock to a boil and reduce the liquid by about half Add a generous pinch of salt and check the seasonings If you are satisified with the heat from the chili, remove it from the stock. Once the seasoning has been adjusted, add 2 Tbsp of butter.
In a small pan, briefly saute the blanched vegetables in 1 Tbsp butter to warm them through Season with salt, if necessary
Pour the stock around the poached halibut and add the warmed vegetables Garnish with fresh dill or fennel sprigs.
*Blanching Place the vegetables (one variety at a time) in a large pot of generously salted water (5 teaspoons per gallon of water) for a few minutes until tender but still firm
Remove the vegetables with a slotted spoon and transfer to a bowl of ice water. Drain once cooled.
Pronounced seh VEE chee Yield: 6 to 8 appetizer portions
1 ¾ pounds (800 g) fresh halibut, skin removed, diced into ¾” cubes juice from 4 lemons, 4 limes, and two oranges (about 1 ½ cups of citrus juice)
4 large shallots, finely diced
4 Jalapeno peppers,* finely diced
2/3 cup fresh cilantro, finely chopped
3 Tbsp vegetable or grapeseed oil
Salt to taste
1 avocado, diced (optional)
*If you prefer more heat, substitute the Jalepeno peppers with Serrano peppers or, if you’re really brave, Thai chilies.
Gently combine the diced fish, citrus juice and diced shallots in a glass bowl (The halibut must be entirely covered by the citrus juice ) Cover and refrigerate for approximately 4 hours.
Drain the fish and shallots in a colander and discard the citrus juice
In a large bowl, combine the drained fish and shallots with the peppers, cilantro, oil and a generous pinch of salt Taste and adjust seasoning, adding additional salt and peppers if needed. Add diced avocado, if desired.
Serve the seviche with pita chips and garnish with thinly sliced cucumber.
Yield: approx 8 cups of stock
2 ½ 3 pounds fresh halibut trim, chopped into 2” 3” chunks, rinsed in cold water, drained well
3 Tbsp grapeseed oil (or any mild tasting vegetable oil)
2 onions, roughly chopped
2 stalks celery, roughly chopped
2 leeks, white par t only, roughly chopped
1 fennel bulb, roughly chopped
4 whole garlic cloves
1 cup white wine
1 bouquet gar ni (bouquet of herbs): bundle together with kitchen string a few sprigs of fresh thyme and a generous handful of fresh parsley, including stems
2 bay leaves
1 tsp whole peppercorns Cold water
In a large stock pot, gently saute the onions, celery, leek, fennel and garlic in the oil over medium heat until the vegetables soften slightly, without browning Add the wine; continue to cook until the wine has evaporated by about half Add the fish bones and cook gently for a few minutes until the meat on the fish bones starts to turns opaque. Add the bouquet garni, bay leaves, peppercorns and enough cold water to just cover the ingredients Bring the stock to a gentle simmer and continue to simmer for 30 minutes The stock should not boil Strain the stock (discarding the solids) and use immediately or refrigerate for up to three days The stock can be transferred to plastic freezer bags and kept frozen for up to four months
top shelf
Down by the Bay bridge there’s a new brewpub in town. Bonnie and Don Bradley, formerly founders of Bowen Island Brewing, have set up shop in the Rock Bay neighbourhood as an English style, bar ser vice pub crafting their own seasonal, traditional beers Three of which are available in 650 ml bottles to take home: Moonlight Blonde Ale, Tranquility I PA and Blue Moon Bitter. All sample fresh and go from light pilsner style to hoppy, crisp, clean to full bodied with a dry finish. A four th beer, Lunar Pale Ale, is only available on tap With alcohol levels kept below 5% all the ales can be considered true “session” beers
Available at the pub, 350B Bay Street, Victoria, www moonunderwater ca
less chocolate cakes and giant puffs of meringues currently all the rage in Paris One bite shows why these have become so popular the crunch, then meringue heaven, slightly chewy with the subtleness of rosewater and a touch of exotic pistachio crunch or comforting cinnamon with hazelnut. Top these with fresh fruit and whipped cream to create an Okanagan pavlova Enjoy lunch with treats such as brioche French toast, bourekas, home made soups and sandwiches This bakery café is not to be missed. (250 770 2001)
The newly opened Wrap It Up Tor tilla has the best authentic home made Mexican tortilla’s in the Valley The tortilla machine was brought all the way from Mexico Unlike grocer y chain tortilla’s, these are made with no preservatives and low sodium Take away deli wraps, taco bowls, and tortilla chips are sold on site as well as Cana dian Pie Wraps a tortilla filled with pie fillings such as lemon, cherr y, or boston cream then rolled up and re baked in the oven. Be warned they are sinfully addictive. (250 487 7474)
treat not to be missed add the ice wines to your tasting flight for just $2 00 a pour Wines can be purchased on site at the wine boutique store Knowledgeable and help ful staff 1125 Richter St, 250 762 9144
Tree Brewing another of the Okanagan’s famed micro breweries offers tours and a tasting bar. Visit the cold vault to purchase frosty beers Best buys are the tall cans (500ml) and big boy beer bottles (650ml) which can be bought individually or mixed and matched to create a customized pack. Both their Hop Head Double IPA, and Seasonal Hefeweizen Wheat Ale won gold medals at the 2010 Canadian Brewery Awards 1083 Richter St, 250 717 1091
Since 1985, Kootenay Coffee, of Nelson fame, has been selling their certified organic coffee both retail and whole sale and has now opened their first coffee bar Coffee con noisseurs local owner Craig Bennett, takes serious pride in his beans and specializes in espresso as well as hand made lattes, and cappuccinos. 1019 Richter St, 778 478 2870
In big cities, the coolest neighborhoods often take root when an industrial area becomes inhabited by artists & entrepreneurs. (New York’s Meat Packing district, Toronto’s Queen West, and Vancouver’s SOMA ) Owner owned and operated restaurants /coffee bars spring up and seemly overnight the industrial ‘hood becomes hip Both Penticton’s Canner y Trade Centre and Kelowna’s downtown industrial core, steps from Prospera Place are two such areas A wander into these ‘hoods finds a treasure trove of culinary delights
1475 Fairview Rd, Penticton. Artists & Artisans Valentini’s Cafe, a favorite with locals, believes in serving ‘real food for real people’ Breakfasts include lattes, classic eggs & bacon, wraps, and eggs benny with real hol landaise sauce For lunch, soups made from scratch, fresh salads, and sandwiches with names that say it all the veg etarian, the beefer (roast beef roasted on site to medium rare perfection), the yoddler (black forest ham & gruyere Swiss cheese), & the gobbler (roast turkey, maple syrup and cranberry cream cheese) all served on delicious nine grain chaibatta bread. (250 487 2265)
Inside, past the western saddles is “Walla” a tiny bakery café crammed with deliciousness including fresh baked artisan bread and delectable’s such as mini flour
Opus Theatre Cafe is a love story and the joint venture of Mike and Terri Surdzis who were married in the café in 2006 and after buying it in 2010 renamed it Opus. Mike, previously owned the “Go Greek” food trailer hence the outstanding gyro’s served at lunch and the Greek theme running through the price fixe dinners that Opus puts on by reservation only for theatre evenings. Opus is an artist’s café good food at reasonable prices and a friendly place to linger Enjoy the patio this summer (250 496 5188)
The Cannery Brewery, showcases that the Okanagan produces not only award winning wines but award winning beers. Squire Scotch Ale took Gold and Naramata Nut Brown Ale Silver at the 2010 Canadian Brewing Awards Here you can sample, take a tour of the brewing facility and purchase their beers Host a summer “Pig” party (a mini keg in the shape of a pig) with the seasonal Apricot Wheat Ale, perfect for the Okanagan’s hot sum mer days (250 493 2723)
The Okanagan Tree Fruit Cooperative has 6 fruit sales outlets in the valley, with one located at Richter and Clement. The best place to buy and sample local farmer’s apples and pears year round due to cold preser vation Varietals include heavenly ambrosia, nicola, concord and exotic koshi Other local treasures include jams, pies and Knight’s chocolate bars with local sour cherries. 816 Clement St, 250 763 8872
Down Richter Street, Calona Vineyards Winery which opened in 1932 (BC’s original winer y) is also home to Vineyards Estate Wines which houses the award win ning Sandhill and Peller Estates wineries. Step into the tasting room and for a small fee sample their wines A
Cecil’s Perogies, has been an Okanagan institution for over nineteen years Hand made perogies and sauces are made on site generous portions. Next door, Hungr y Hound Restaurant diner’s fare is the best bang for the buck Big breakfast meals and lunches which include towering sandwiches and burgers with fries are under $10.00. Cecil’s Perogies, 1011 Richter St, 250 861 4932; Hungry Hound Restaurant, 991 Richter St, 250 762 6266
Around the corner, newly opened, focuses on producing premium vodka and gin A must try The Spirit Bear Gin a unique Okanagan gem with hints of lavender and apple. Open to the public for sampling and tours. All pro ceeds from the tasting fees go directly to helping the en dangered Spirit Bears of British Columbia Save a bear, try a tasting #6 325 Bay St, 778 478 0939
Finally, two well know Okanagan chefs and legends at the Kelowna Far mer’s Market Grant de Montreuil (Wedge Artisan Pizza) and Neil Schroeter (Okanagan Street Food), have both set up permanent shop Now you can satisfy your cravings almost any day of the week.
Wedge Artisan Pizza, famous for their thin crust pizza shells (available at finer grocer y stores) uses the best sourced local ingredients combined with the best of Italy to produce their gourmet take out or delivery pizzas Taste the difference. 1184 High St, 250 868 0004
Okanagan Street Food Diner showcases some of the best food in the valley in a modern day diner The famous market breakfast wrap is served all day An absolute must the candied salmon fritters. Sandwiches, fish tacos, fries with blackberr y ketchup or truffled mayonnaise, daily fresh pasta, & divine homemade soups Where the chefs eat 812 Crowley St, 778 478 0807
Have fun exploring the Okanagan’s Grit and Glamour ‘hoods. ~
Oliver has often been referred to as a one horse town In fact, this is patently untrue, as there are whole fields of horses and cows. Regardless, the area around Highway 97 is called the Golden Mile for good reason Among the multitude of orchards are some of B.C.’s best names in wine; names like Hester Creek, Road 13, Tinhorn and Burrowing Owl
Unfortunately, until recently most tourists made Oliver their pit stop on the way to or from Kelowna. A couple hours of sipping wine, and lunch at one of the few good restaurants in town, and off they went Thanks, however, to the inspired efforts of certain winery owners and their restaurant chefs, Oliver is set to become a dining destina tion in its own right
Winery restaurants have been few and far between in this area But with the recent openings of Miradoro at Tinhorn Creek and Terrafina at Hester Creek, there has been renewed interest in the local dining scene, and with good reason
The recently opened Miradoro (www tinhorn com), a partnership between Tinhorn Creek Vineyards and Manuel Ferreira of Vancouver’s Le Gavroche, boasts a menu rich in Mediterranean influences and a kitchen headed by chef Jeff Van Geest (Bishop’s, Diva at the Met, Aurora Bistro) Ferreira’s own Portuguese background makes itself felt, but so do the influences of Italy, Spain and Morocco all cuisines that match well with South Okanagan wines “We’re not trying to be authentic,” says Van Geest The goal, according to him, is to create dishes based around what’s available seasonally and then play with those influences to create something new But that play isn’t meant to make things complicated The food is presented as simply as possible, such as with the smoked sablefish and sweet pea croquettes off the tapas menu that are sided with a smear of honey garlic aioli, or the albóndigas beef ragout stuffed meatballs in roasted tomato sauce
Mains like seared halibut cheeks (from the first catch of the season) are paired with blood sausage migas, a Spanish and Portuguese savour y version of pain perdu, made from leftover bread soaked in garlic, olive oil and pimentos The migas is crispy, chewy and meaty, thanks to the sausage, and the briny tang of the pimento cuts the richness of the cheeks with samurai skill
Miradoro also boasts a ceramic pizza oven, so thin crust
Sonora Room: Crisp Fraser Valley duck leg confit with truffled ricotta gnocchi and spiced black amber plum gastrique Burrowing Owl 2008 Pinot Noir Chef Chris VanHooydonk
pizzas with classic toppings like fresh torn basil and fior di latte are fixtures on the menu, but also sit next to more in ventive options like the morel mushroom, asparagus and local chevre version. A personal favourite was the potato with caramelized onions and mascarpone The oven is often lined with vine leaves to allow a bit of the grape in your glass to be reflected in the food as well.
The restaurant uses organic, local and seasonal when ever possible and Van Geest has started his own pickling and preserving program for the leaner winter months. As the program expands, so too will the range of housemade products featured on the menu And Miradoro is not alone in its aims. Local chefs are not only embracing the local seasonal sustainable mantra with open arms and inventive whisks, but several of them are also doing double duty as growers and producers.
At Burrowing Owl Estate Winery, an “old timer” in the dining scene, Executive Chef Chris Van Hooydonk along with his Executive Sous Chef Jonathan Thauberger has long been quietly growing, curing, pick ling and preserving for the French inspired menu at the Sonora Room Restaurant (www.bovwine.ca). The charcuterie plate is deliberately vague in description, as the kitchen likes to change up the selection of terrines, pâtés and sausages, depending on what’s available and virtually everything on the plate is made in house
My visit had me sampling the house made copa cotta sausage, beef tongue and pork cheek terrine, duck liver parfait, and a venison cacciatore flavoured with juniper berries and peppercorns The cornichons were pickled in house, the lemon and dill whole wheat bread was baked that morning, and the apricot infused mustard is a local byword
The crispy duck leg confit that followed was meltingly good, especially when paired with the ricotta gnocchi, grilled apples and yellow and red carrots It was matched perfectly with a glass of the winery’s 2008 Pinot Noir.
Van Hooydonk also happens to have his own hobby or chard conveniently located within view of the restau rant dining room on which he grows his own fruits and walnuts to supplement what comes in from local suppliers like Covert Farms, Codfather Seafood Market, Two Rivers Meats and Fester’s Peppers. Nor is he the only one in his kitchen to also wear a grower’s cap The staff all participates in an annual heirloom tomato competition,
Terrafina: Chouriço and mushroom pizza with parmigiano and
cheddar Hester Creek 2009 Character Red
to see who can grow the choicest varietals, and are constantly experimenting with new products from their home gardens
The cherries in my fresh baked strudel come from Van Hooydonk’s farm, a luscious mix of classic and Byng varietals, set off nicely by the housemade (natch) vanilla bean ice cream and cherry coulis.
Van Hooydonk’s philosophy on the food is fairly simple “A beet is a beet is a beet,” he states, “and if you get the best product coming in the back door, then there shouldn’t be much that you have to do to it, apart from cooking and seasoning it properly, and then matching it well to a good wine.”
That philosophy is mirrored over at Hester Creek Estate Winer y’s new restaurant, Terrafina (www.terrafinarestaurant.com) . Executive Chef Jeremy Luypen, who also heads the kitchens at Passa Tempo at nearby Spirit Ridge, has put together a rustic Tuscan centred menu that revolves around the brick lined and wood burning pizza oven that takes centre stage in his open kitchen
The caprese salad is made with Luypen’s own cheese, a soft, silky, creamy, burrata style concoction that makes this often tired offering sing like a Puccini aria An antipasto platter includes the housemade chouriço, a drier Portuguese version of chorizo that the mother of one of Luypen’s friends taught him to make in her kitchen
Housemade prosciutto made from Two Rivers duck tops a pizza along with caramelized onions, Little Qualicum blue cheese and an aged balsamic glaze Lamb sirloin marinated with garlic and shallots is decorated with pur ple and yellow potatoes, and wild boar and venison meat balls are cooked in Chef’s own merlot beef stock
Luypen, along with his two chefs de cuisine Praneil Rai and April Yonkman, has already been going strong on the canning and preserving front at Passa Tempo, has plans for a kitchen garden behind the restaurant, echoing the zero mile inclinations of chefs like Van Hooydonk
In the end, though, all of this attention to hyper local, sustainable, organic, seasonal, fresh, wild, handmade, etc, all comes from a common philosophy that holds that the most wine friendly food is that which comes from the same earth on which the vines grow and is produced with an equal amount of passion and dedication And that is golden, indeed
Ricardo Scebba, Ricardo's Mediterranean Kitchen, 250 766 6810
For years people have requested my recipes and for years I've told them how simple they are to make Well a cookbook seemed like the logical conclusion So this May, Ricardo's will have all of his & his mother's recipe's in one little package entitled “That's Amore”: Recipes honouring my Mom, my heritage & my appetite & for under 25 bucks you should be satisfied
Mark Filatow, Waterfront Restaurant & Wine Bar, 250 979 1222
Last summer I was spit roasting a suckling pig for a backyard birthday party. The customer/birthday boy asked if he could have the head He is Philippino and they make a special dish with it He even bought a huge butcher’s scimitar I showed where to make the cut and with all the guests watching….“WACK” off came the head. Later as I was packing up all the catering gear I asked the host where I could put the head which was now wrapped in tinfoil He said he was going to put it in the freezer The kicker is, his wife’s vegan. He was allowed to have the spit roast pig in their backyard only because it was his birthday I am sure she found it first under the peas
Jas Dosanj, Poppadoms, 778 753 5563
Allergies. So, we created gluten free, lactose free and vegan friendly menus to make things easier A guest emailed us about their daughter’s dangerous chickpea allergy Before cooking we took the Mum into our kitchen and cleaned the pan, utensils and serving plates in front of her to ease her mind about cross contamination.
Ryan Fuller, Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, 250 494 0451
There have been may challenging requests, from allergies to vegans to not having specific items on my menu I along with my team always find ways to accommodate and deliver to our guests. I have even had to run to another restaurant to borrow an ingredient and cook a special dish for a guest that would not take no for an answer
Giulio Piccioli, The Rotten Grape, 250 717 8466
When I ran my first Italian restaurant a regular customer, Enzo, came in with 2 beautiful pheasants, barely dead, handed them to me by the neck and said “I will be back in one hour with 3 other friends, thank you” Neither I nor my sous chef knew what to do. With a lap top, internet connection and a shot of grappa for courage, we set about to please Enzo That night, Enzo and his friends enjoyed a beautiful Roasted Pheasant Breast, with a wild mushroom duxelle, a Chianti reduction and white truffle Mashed Potatoes. I will never forget that night and those two beautiful birds; I learnt the importance of respecting and understanding the ingredients you work with; and the necessity of a wireless connection in the kitchen: you just never know!
Jyunya Nakamura, Wasabi Izakaya, 250 762 7788
Unusual challenge is a normal situation since a lot of our dishes are different from Japanese restaurants in the Okanagan Many people in the Okanagan are still discovering that there is a lot more than sushi to Japanese cuisine
Paul Cecconi, Local Lounge, 250 494 8855
As many more people these days are experiencing sensitivities and allergies to certain foods, it is our responsibility as chefs to face this challenge and provide these guests with an experience that is second to none and making them feel like they have not been forgotten
Its Festival time in the Okanagan! Plan to join us this summer for some of the province’s most spectacu lar food and wine events The upcoming Okanag an Summer W ine Fes tival line up t his year is amazing Wit h new events and locations added, t he exper ience will be sure to t hr ill your palat es www thewinefestivals com
In June we celebrate t he First Annual Okanagan Spot Prawn Festival Hos ted by t he Pacif ic Prawn Fisherman’s Association, in conjunction wit h t he Chefs’ Table Society and sponsored by EAT Magazine, events will be held at bot h Manteo Resor t and Watermark Beac h Resor t The original Spot Prawn Festival, now in its 5t h year, takes place in May at t he False Creek Fisherman’s Whar f in Vancouver Brought to us with help of Jon Crof ts, owner of Codfather’s Seafood Market, we are proud to join ranks with this wonder ful Coastal celebration
When in Summerland, make sure to pop into Good Omens Cof fee Shop This hip java hut is owned by Jamie Ohmenzetter and her par tner Jason Embree Both classically trained chefs, this specialty cof fee house also of fers up a delicious food menu and a super cool back yard. www GoodOmens ca Af ter a stunning 43 year career, Bouchon’s well loved Chef Dominique Couton has entered into a much deser ved retirement Congratulations to former Sous Chef Luc Bissonnette who has taken his
"What is the most interesting or challenging guest request you have ever had?”
place at the kitchen helm Luc was formerly with Bacchus Restaurant in Vancouver and has been with Bouchon’s since it opened in 2004 Before that he cooked in Paris! www bouchonsbistro com
Farmers Market favorites Mar y De Bakker and husband Sandy Lukic have opened their own digs De Bakker’s Kitchen in Kelowna This cozy, wood themed eater y boasts a beautiful wood fire oven fed by local apple wood Of fering up a wide array of wood fire oven baked breads, t hey are now open for lunch and dinner Their delicious locally focused lunch menu features homemade soups, salads, and sandwiches plus daily features Don’t miss the wood fire oven baked pizzas for eat in or take out af ter 5:00 www debakkerskitchen com 1014 Glenmore Drive Open 11 9 closed Monday
•Little Creek Gardens have released a brand new salad dressing to add to their delicious reper toire a creamy Caesar! www littlecreekgardens com
• The Rotten Grape wine bar downtown has a new Chef in the house Direct from Umbria, hot young Chef Giulio Piccioli has infused a taste of Tuscany to the menu www rottengrape com
• Serendipity Winer y has opened up recently on the Naramata Bench make sure to add them to your wine tour www serendipitywiner y com
• Raudz Regional Table’ s cocktail classes lead by in house Liquid Chef Gerr y Jobe are still going strong check out their schedule and sign up: www raudz com
• Water front Restaurant will be expanding into the space next door where Metro Liquor now resides www water frontrestaurant ca
Spring has sprung, and with the sunshine comes a host of change in the Valleys New beginnings, new releases, new crop, new blood South Okanagan’s Le Vieux Pin is going from strength to strength, announcing the inaugural release of its Rhone inspired program with the 2008 Syrah and 2009 Viognier/Roussanne These wines herald an exciting new direction for the winery The belief is that Rhône varieties like Syrah and Viognier are a perfect fit for the paradox ical yet complementary hot microclimate desert of the South Okanagan contained within the cooler 49th parallel macroclimate. www.levieuxpin.ca
The buzz about Tantalus Vineyards isn’t limited to the local press Influential international critic James Suckling awards the 2009 Riesling an impressive 92 points the highest score given to any Canadian Riesling at his early 2011 Société des Alcools du Québec hosted tasting. Tantalus, BC’s first LEED winery, has instigated a honey bee program, with 12 hives to start, and building to 20 by year’s end. www.tantalus.ca
Spring also brings in new beginnings for Naramata’s Lang Winer y, one of the properties of the bankrupt Holman Lang Wineries Ltd group The Lang property and winery have been purchased by Bravo Enterprises Ltd Past owner Guenther Lang will continue to lead a team of consultants, working closely with European educated winemaker Laurent Lafuente.
And finally, from new beginnings to old milestones, 2011 marks Kettle Valley Winery’s 20th year of family winemaking on the Naramata Bench As part of the celebrations they are offering Celebration Pricing Events to individual customers, rolling back to original prices on select wines The first wave was in April, but watch their website for July 15 and October 15 birthday celebration sales www kettlevalley winery com
This spring’s annual Banée celebration weekend had more to celebrate than normal. Banée is a South Okanagan Winery Association industry event to mark the end of pruning and the beginning of a new season This year SOWA announced another new beginning the beginning of a new era, logo and name christening as Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country The 21 member wineries made the decision to move from SOWA to OOWA so they could better define the region where their grapes are grown and to communicate a sense of place Southern Okanagan is a pretty broad term for consumers to comprehend where does it start? Where does it end? How far does it spread? The new name and marketing plan aims to clarify the area, and will work to highlight their unique climate, soil and wine growers and vintners. Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country is now clearly bordered by McIntyre Bluff to the north, and the USA border to the south Its major growing areas lie on 3 benches: the Golden Mile, The Black Sage and the Osoyoos Lake benches While there are a number of soil types and microclimates, the unifying character is the extreme desert climate, with hot days and cool nights perfect for grapes. www.sowasite.com (new site under development at press time)
NEW!
WWW.HESTERCREEK.COM
What separates an ordinar y tea from a tea masterpiece? It begins with the quality of tea leaves used. Soil conditions, altitude, climate, even the location on the bush the leaf was plucked from all are critical elements in the resulting tea But what elevates a tea to something extraordinary is the skill of the tea maker who processes the tea leaves and transforms what nature has created (and the tea farmer has nurtured) into a masterpiece
Some types of tea are easier to make than others. Green, white, oolong and black teas are all produced from the same Camellia sinensis plant, but how they are processed will determine what kind of tea they become Green and white teas are made by steaming and drying tea leaves almost immediately after picking Black tea is created from tea leaves that are fully oxidized (exposed to sunlight and air) before drying. Although green, white and black teas offer certain challenges, they are generally easier to make than oolong teas
Premium oolong teas, known for their depth and lack of astringency, are highly prized by tea connoisseurs To produce one, the leaves are partially oxidized and many styles of oolong teas can be created, depending on the oxidation level and how the leaves are rolled, dried and baked This partial oxidation can result in an extraordinary combina tion of flavours not found in any other type of tea At their best, they have an alluring complexity, natural sweetness, incomparable floral and fruit aromas, and an exquisite long lasting aftertaste. However, bringing an oolong tea to the point where it reveals its full potential requires incredible skill Last October I had the opportunity to experience this first hand with one of Taiwan’s
foremost experts on tea processing, Cheng Chung Huang. Mr. Huang is in charge of the tea processing section for Taiwan’s Tea Research & Extension Station, a government agency where some of the world’s most cutting edge tea research takes place The facility isn’t open to the public, and I felt extremely privileged to be among a select group of non Taiwanese tea professionals who were the first to have been granted access.
Several tea research stations are located throughout Taiwan The one I visited in central Taiwan has a breathtaking view of Sun Moon Lake, a popular tourist destina tion Taiwan’s temperate climate, humidity, abundant sunshine, ample rainfall and mountainous geography create a veritable paradise for tea production. But even the best quality leaves can result in mediocre tea if they are not processed by a skilled tea maker
Those processing methods have been shrouded in secrecy since the origins of tea At one time in China, tea processing was considered a state secret because tea makers didn’t want Europeans to figure out how tea was made. In fact, revealing techniques to foreigners was punishable by death. Clearly, making good tea was serious business!
And it still is Training for tea processing has traditionally taken place through apprenticeships and is often transmitted through families from one generation to the next The problem with this model is the wide range of skill levels among tea makers Those who excel tend to keep their secrets to themselves. It typically takes about 10 years of training to develop enough expertise to produce good quality tea, but even then the ability to produce something exceptional is not guaranteed without a combination of luck, talent and experience, particularly without the opportunity for advanced training.
Cheng Chung Huang’s role is to develop best practices for tea growing as well as tea processing and to offer training to tea farmers and tea makers so they can improve the quality of their product, and in so doing improve their lives Wages in the Taiwanese tea industry are generally higher than for other tea producing regions, but there’s still room for growth Manufacturing premium quality tea requires more highly skilled and better paid workers, but it also commands higher prices, which in turn translates into higher and more stable incomes and has the spin off effect of helping to create and retain jobs in rural areas
The tea I made under Mr Huang’s skilful guidance is a particular style of Taiwanese oolong known as Tung Ting, whose English translation is Frozen Mountain Peak. The best Tung Ting is produced from bushes that grow at elevations of 600 to 700 metres around the foothills of Tung Ting Mountain in the Lugu Township of Nantou County As is typical at higher altitudes, the climate is cool with moderate sun, along with ample cloud, mist and rainfall, which contribute to good quality tea leaves.
The price of Tung Ting tea reflects the demand for, and limited supply of, ultra premium tea In Taipei, an average quality Tung Ting sells for around $130 per kilo, whereas a very good quality one will reach $750 to $850 per kilo
In our case, the leaves we used did not come from Tung Ting Mountain Instead, ours were freshly plucked in the late morning from the research station’s vast experimen tal tea gardens, the site of top secret development of new tea plant cultivars Tung Ting tea is an excellent example of both how challenging and rewarding it can be to process tea The method is complicated and the many intricate steps require great technical precision throughout. It took more than 30 hours of processing time over two days to make this tea, and by the end, I felt as exhausted as if I had scaled Tung Ting Mountain itself But the reward was well worth it; the tea was truly exquisite
From start to finish, we monitored the ambient tempera ture and humidity because they affect how long it can take the tea to move from one stage to another We also constantly obser ved the tea’s appearance and aroma These are the primary indicators of when the tea is ready to move to the next stage.
Tea processing began at 12:30 in the afternoon Freshly picked tea leaves were laid out on large tarps and exposed to the sun in a stage known as solar withering It speeds up evaporation of moisture from the leaf and hastens oxidation. How long this step takes depends on the intensity of sunlight, temperature and humidity After an hour and five minutes, the tea leaves had softened and when held upright they drooped Solar withering was complete Next, the tea leaves were placed on large round bamboo trays and moved inside for indoor withering, further de creasing the moisture content Over an eight hour period, we shook the trays intermittently and gently stirred the leaves by hand to ensure uniform exposure to air. The tea’s aroma undergoes an incredible transformation during this stage. When freshly picked, tea has a light grassy scent, but as the oxidation process unfolds, the grassiness dissipates and an array of intoxicating fruity and floral notes appears Once the scent has reached a particular peak of intensity, it is time to stop indoor withering I asked Mr Huang to de scribe the smell and he laughed It was indescribable, he said, but through practice and experience you eventually devel oped the ability to recognize the moment.
And Mr Huang is right: the scent is unforgettable yet al most impossible to describe It was hauntingly elusive, utterly mesmerizing and pleasantly overwhelming due to its intensity and complexity The perception of the scent kept changing with each inhalation. One moment I smelled honeysuckle, then honey and pollen. In another instant, I detected orange flower blossoms and jasmine. Then a mouth watering array of ripe fruit aromas overtook the air peaches, plums, figs, apricots and pears
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I would have been content to linger in that fragrant heaven forever, but once we identified that the tea had reached the perfect point, it was time to expose it to heat to halt the oxidation and retain the aromatic and flavour characteristics that had been released through withering The tea was trans ferred to a panning machine, which tumbles the leaves while exposing them to temperatures of 70 75 degrees Celsius Then it was onto the pre drying stage, which further reduced moisture in the leaves
Since we had used heat several times to halt the oxidation process, we were able to let the tea rest overnight By this point, I was exhilarated and exhausted It was 2 a m ; finally time to call it a day
Early the next morning we began the rolling process, which is how the tea leaves eventually take on their tightly wound, pearl like appearance. It also causes a further breakdown in the leaf’s structure The first part of rolling is known as half moon rolling, so named because the shape of the device is a half circle
Afterwards, the tea leaves are placed in canvas and formed into a large, tight ball This cloth “tea ball” is exposed to controlled, weighted pres sure to continue dissipation of the moisture and allow the tea to continue developing its characteristic leaf shape By now I was truly weary and I knew this stage was traditionally carried out entirely by hand. It was a great relief to discover that semi automated equipment would be used instead. The tea was rolled, panned and re rolled 30 times over the course of nine hours After each rolling, the leaves were inspected for appearance and aroma to determine whether more or less rolling was required When the rolling was finally judged to be complete, the leaves were run through a dr yer to further deactivate any enzymatic activity and to stabilize the tea
Finally, the tea leaves were baked to seal in the flavour and ensure adequate dryness They were now ready to be packed.
Continual adjustments are made during tea processing to account for the variances in each har vest, as well as the constantly changing ambient tem perature and humidity during the course of a day. There is a high margin for error, and if, at any point, we had too little or too much oxidation, rolling or dr ying, the tea would not have achieved its ideal state At worst, the tea would have been ruined a few miscalculations could result in a moderate quality tea. Instead the final result was exquisite, demonstrating what a true tea masterpiece can be I’ve gained an extensive body of knowledge about tea during my nearly 20 years in the industry, yet this experience of creating a premium oolong in Central Taiwan left me with an even deeper appreciation for the alchemy that goes into a cup of my favourite brew
Tung Ting Tea can be ordered by the pot (or gaiwan) at the Hotel Grand Pacific. It is also available in limited quantities for sale at Silk Road. The
available for sale are from Lugu
Subscribers to Tapas, our newsletter, and EAT Twitter followers are eligible to enter a draw to attend a special tutored Tung Ting tea tasting at Silk Road Watch for details
Cheng Chung Huang’s assistant places tea leaves in and out of panning machine.
Daniela wraps tea leaves in canvas
Daniela inspects the unwrapped tea to determine whether more rolling is required.
Cheng Chung Huang demonstrates how tightly the tea needs to be rolled.Cloth “tea ball”
perfectly wrapped and ready for compression.
Red Rooster Okanagan VQA Chardonnay 2009 BC $14 50 16 00 So what’s not to like about this brilliant Naramata chardonnay Winemaker Karen Gillis and her team won gold at the 2011 Chardonnay du Monde competition in France rating Red Rooster as one of the top ten chards on the planet. Yeow! For under twenty bucks! Creamy with spiced pear and citrus flavours, a hint of oak nicely balanced with a crunch of lively acidity
Beso de Vino Old Vine Garnacha 2009 Spain $13 00 15 00
Grenache or garnacha is the flavour of the month and at this price point nobody does it better than the Spanish! Fat and juicy with sweet toasty berry flavours, medium to full bodied and balanced with a rasp of firm tannins Great value
Joie Rose 2010 BC $21 00 23 00
When I think pink this bright watermelon hued Rose from the Naramata bench is exactly what I am thinking about It is a blend of pinot noir, pinot meunier and gamay with a splash of pinot gris just for the heck of it Off dry and medium bodied with ripe cherry and strawberry flavours, a kiss of zippy acidity and a blush of fine tannin.
Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc 2010 New Zealand $17.00 20.00
The 2010 vintage is a return to a style of wine that put Marlborough sauvignon blanc on our collective radar Concentrated and fresh with crisp acidity and bright passion fruit and citrus flavours Halibut, yes A little sole, perhaps A dozen oysters on the half shell, divine.
Giessen Sauvignon Blanc 2009 New Zealand $16 00 19 00
This is a wine I could throw back in great draughts It is fresh and lively with delicious gooseberr y, citrus and asparagus flavours Medium bodied with mouthwatering acidity and a clean dry finish.
Quails’ Gate Okanagan VQA Dry Riesling 2010 BC $17 00 19 00
An Okanagan classic with a ripe peaches and apricots on the nose and intense citrus and mineral flavours nicely balanced with a crunch of mouth watering acidity. With some of the oldest vines in the valley, Quails’ Gate Riesling just keeps get better and better, year after year!
Kettle Valley Pinot Gris 2010 BC $20.00 23.00
Sitting on prime real estate in the heart of the Naramata Bench, Kettle Valley contin ues to impress This lovely salmon hued gris is loaded with ripe melon, apple and mineral flavours with a slightly oily texture, good weight and plenty of refresh acidity to keep it interesting Get it now because it won’t be around for long
Principesco Pinot Noir 2009 Italy $12.00 14.00
This perky little quaffer is soft and fruity with simple cherry flavours, a velvety texture and a clean dry finish A good buy for it’s humble price point
Escorihuela 1884 Reservado Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Argentina $17 00 19 00
The vineyards and wineries of Argentina are well known as a source of good Malbec at price points that won’t bring tears to your eyes but did you know there is more to Argentina then Malbec Well if you didn’t let me assure you that one taste of this richly endowed cabernet will get you wondering about what you have missed all these year Rich and full bodied with concentrated cassis, menthol, expresso and spice flavours nicely balanced with a soft tannic structure. Hmmmm?
Terra Andina Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009 Chile $10 00 13 00
Fruit, fruit and more fruit, this scrumptious red is all about balance and the crystalline purity of Chilean fruit Rich and silky smooth with cherry, plum and vanilla flavours and a firm, fruit driven finish.
Kettle Valley Pinot Noir Reserve 2007 BC $35 00 40 00
Concentrated and powerful with heady aromas of black cherry, spice and warm earth fill the glass and develop slowly on the palate Medium bodied and richly textured with complex fruit flavours, balanced acidity and silky smooth tannins. A big juicy Pinot worth every penny
Premium Scotch Selection!
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IN VICTORIA, FRESH LOCAL CUISINE COMES FROM THE PACIFIC.
The Pacific is one of Victoria’s best kept restaurant secrets and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. The freshest local fare is perfectly prepared by our expert kitchen, the ambiance is relaxed and menu selections are diverse. When you want delicious west coast cuisine, think The Pacific.
For reservations call 1-800-663-7550 or visit us online at hotelgrandpacific.com
Casual Dining at The Hotel Grand Pacific
This brand new fruit winery is situated on just over 800 acres, nestled at the base of Mt Washington in Comox Valley The family farm (O’Brennan and Ludwig families) is made up of four generations living and working together, to produce a number of hand harvested and sustainably farmed products including wine, fruit, raw honey, mead, and custom milled lumber. With over 80 acres of blackberries, they lay claim to the largest cultivated blackberry farm in Canada Operating as a dairy farm from 1991 to 2009 they decided to switch gears, because “when it came right down to it we simply prefer wine over milk ” They produce various table wines, dessert wines, mead and have just released their Blackberry Sparkling. They are in the process of building an authentic, wood fired Pompeii oven to provide guests with artisan breads and stone cooked pizza to be enjoyed on their (soon to be licensed) patio www coastalblack ca
Mead and Modern might not be words that naturally go together, but Hornby Island’s Middle Mountain Mead has just released a brand new concept in beverage packaing Magick Mead is a fortified (20% alcohol) mead that has been designed to blend with sparkling water. One “Magick Box” holds 48 ser vings of honeyed herbal syrup: lavender, lemon and a host of mysterious herbs and botanicals. The bag in box con cept represents a 600% reduction in weight and volume for the same quantity of single serving bottles, and when empty, flattens to a fraction of the space and weight of bottles It requires no refrigeration and mixes up in seconds, and at 20% alcohol by volume, is stable indefinitely at room temperature. Of course, there are no preserva tives, chemicals or added sulphites To mix a glass of fresh Magick Mead, you just need 1 part Magick Mead, 2 parts sparkling water and 1 part ice www middlemountainmead com
Cowichan Bay’s Rocky Creek Winery has released their entire 2011 line under ZORK The first western Canadian winery to adopt the strip and sip ZORK closure system, Linda and Mark Holford said the decision fits in with their aim to be sustainable and innovative. “We have done a pilot test of the ZORK closure over the last 3 years and learned many of the challenges associated with this product ” Linda states, “We had some manufacturing issues around specifications of bottles for this product, however, it is worth the learning experience to gain access to this product on the entire production line.” Winemaker Mark notes “ZORK is great because it has an aluminum layer that allows a tiny amount of air permeability, which will enhance the wines over the years stored, something that screwcaps don’t have ” They are also reviewing the ZORK for sparkling, with the hopes of releasing their bubbles under it Rocky Creek has 2 new limited release sparkling this year at the winery a sparkling blackberry wine (Salish), and a rose sparkling (Jubilee) www ZORKusa com www rockycreekwinery ca
Lighthouse Brewing Company: OverBoard Imperial Pilsner
Spinnakers Brewery: Northwest Ale
Driftwood Brewery: Naughty Hildegard’s ESB
Surgenor Brewing: #8 Shaft Black Lager
Vancouver Island Brewery: Double Decker IPA
Salt Spring Island Ales: Heather Ale & Kolsch
Taste Victoria's third annual festival celebrating local food and wine will be held July 21 24. As in past years, the summer event is centered around The Main Event, with more than 100 BC wines and local cuisine featured at downtown’s Crystal Gardens New this year are the inaugural Taste Wine List Awards Presented by EAT Magazine, as well as the Sommelier of the Year Award, sponsored by Mission Hill Also new is a 100 metre diet feast, in the field at Vantreight Farms, with Chef Matt Rissling and his team from The Marina Restaurant. Tickets can sell out fast so grab yours Available May Watch EATmagazine ca for posts, tweets, photos and tastes from the festival www victoriataste ca *Check the DRINK section of EatMagazine.ca for current releases, beverage news & events
Wine on Island Time!
Each time I sat down to start writing about Island Wineries of British Columbia, published by Touchwood earlier this month, I’d flip open the book and get completely absorbed, forgetting the work that was waiting to be done First, I read all about the owners and winemakers themselves, enjoying the glimpse into their vineyards, how they came to be, what challenges they’d met along the road Then I learned about the varietals, the grapes that thrive (some with much patience or gentle coaxing) in this region, finding out what makes Island wines so different from their Interior counter parts. Finally, I started planning out a future dinner party menu salivating over local chefs’ recipes, each designed to pair with specific Island wines, and dreaming ahead to a road trip that would allow me to stop in and visit the wineries first hand This is exactly what the book’s editor, Gary Hynes, had in mind as he was oversee ing the project When we recently met to discuss the book, he said the book was to encourage us “Let’s get out there, enjoy the wines in our own backyard, and find out what we can eat with them ” Describing himself as an executive producer of sorts, he explained how he put the team together, drawing on the expertise of wine and beer contributors of EAT Magazine. The result is a spectacular group effort that comes together seamlessly the histor y of the Islands' wine industr y explained by Larr y Arnold, 15 wineries and craft beers profiled by Adem Tepedelen, grape varietals demystified by Treve Ring, who also contributed sections on blackberry dessert wines, blattners, sparkling wines, ciders and artisan distillers, while new contributor Jeff Bateman added a word on mead Julie Pegg edited the mouthwatering chapter of seasonal recipes, testing each dish in her home kitchen, Kathryn McAree mapped out tours of the Cowichan Valley, Saanich Peninsula, Gulf Islands, Comox Valley and Sooke and Rebecca Wellman provided breathtaking images that bear witness to the natural beauty of the islands and a wine industry that is just coming into its own. Beyond being compellingly readable, this book is also delightfully user friendly Profiles of the wineries include an image of at least one label, to help you recognize what you’re looking for on the shelf Sidebars offer contact information as well as listings of the best vintages The section on touring the wine region indicates visually which stops make wine/other alcohol, which serve food and which do both Touchwood approached Gary about doing this book a few years ago, but the timing wasn’t quite right the majority of wines being produced on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands at the time could only be acquired on site at the wineries Fast forward to 2011, and most of the wines featured in the book can now be found on shelves at wine shops around the Island, with more and more restaurants showcasing them on wine lists as well This book offers locals a chance to get to know these wines a little better and provides visitors with a great souvenir Best of all, it feels as though we’re being let in on the ground floor Island Wineries of British Columbia gives us a proper introduction to a new generation of BC wines. Now may the relationship flourish.
Island Wineries of British Columbia, From the contributors of EAT Magazine, Edited by Gary Hynes Published by Touchwood Editions $29 95 Available in book stores, wine stores, BC Ferries and at the wineries
Join us on the slopes of Mount Prevost overlooking spectacular views of the Cowichan Valley for a taste of Averill Creek Wines.
Located 6 minutes o Island Highway at 6552 North Road, Duncan Open 11am to 5pm daily www.averillcreek.ca
The wine world is well known for its crazy lingo and it has been appropriately satirized. Even so, we continue to bandy around phrases that have meaning to us, forgetting that those who aren’t in the industry might not have a clue what we’re talking about Referring to wines as “Old World” and “New World” may come across as pretentious to some and simply confusing to others “Does this refer to the age of the vines or does it have something to do with tradition?” a friend of ours asked.
The Old World refers to Europe Countries like France, Italy and Germany have been making wine for hundreds of years Their know how is based on years of experience, rather than science, and traditions have been passed down from generation to genera tion. Here, a wine’s identity is all about geography. It is an expression of place rather than a grape variety. As such, most labels name the region, village or even vine yard, often making no mention of the grape The latter is simply a vehicle to express where it is grown The French coined the term terroir to describe this.
The New World encompasses all those countries that were conquered or settled by the Europeans who brought their winemaking traditions and grape varieties with them Chile, South Africa, Australia and the United States all fall into this categor y. Without an intimate knowledge of their soil that only years of experience can bring, they focused on planting grapes that were successful in Europe Today, the grape variety is king and generally occupies the place of honour on the label as well as in the bottle The objective of the winemaker is to produce a wine that expresses the grape itself, but not necessarily where that grape is grown.
Despite being called the New World, many of these countries have actually been making wine for centuries And they remind us of this repeatedly! The Spaniards had introduced European vines to Chile and Argentina by the mid 1500s, while the Dutch pioneered viticulture in South Africa in the mid 1600s Australia had a slightly later start but still has about 200 years under her belt. The Aussies also love to point out that their soils are much older than those in Europe It calls into question the expression “New World ” California got its start around the same time as Australia, in the early 1800s, and really started booming during the Gold Rush The true neophytes are Canada and New Zealand, who really only started planting European vines in the last three to four decades.
Beyond distinguishing European countries from the rest of the wine producing world, the terms Old World and New World have a specific style of wine associated with them Though they are stereotypes, they are still used as a reference The generalization about Old World wines is that they are restrained, earthy and decidedly structured either by firm tannins or acidity or both They tend to show better with food, and in Europe this is how wine is enjoyed Furthermore, the finest wines from classic regions benefit from some age before being consumed, to allow time for those tannins to soften New World wines, on the other hand, are described as friendly and softer. When vine yards were first established, they tended to be in areas with more reliable weather; warmer and drier than many of their northern European counterparts The resulting wines are therefore fruit driven, riper and more generous While they are easier to drink on their own and more immediately approachable, they are often deemed less age worthy.
So which is better? The Old World has somehow managed to convince us that its wines are superior Certainly, the years of experience has ser ved many regions well It has allowed places like Burgundy to determine which sites are the best and how to encour age the wine to express that. Yet, while carrying on traditions can be beneficial, simply hanging onto them because that’s the way it has always been done doesn’t necessarily make for better wines Furthermore, when questionable traditions are bound in the regulations it can be a detriment to quality Italy in particular has been a victim to this In the red wine region of Chianti, white grapes were required in the blend for decades. They eventually came to their senses and changed the law.
With fewer regulations, producers in the New World have been free of the shackles that have sometimes hindered European winemakers. This has allowed for more experi mentation. The New World was also quicker to embrace technology. Modern advances have gone a long way to improving the overall quality of wine The New World has been criticized, however, for its over reliance on technology as well as for following current trends to the point of disregarding terroir all together
At the end of the day, though, the line between Old and New World wines is becom ing blurred It is much more difficult these days to determine where a wine is from And increased travel between the two has allowed winemakers from different countries to share ideas and learn from each other Some winemakers even make wine in both the Old and New World. As well, New World producers are adopting tried and true traditions from Europe, and there has been a trend to plant in cooler and/or more extreme climates resulting in wines with a European flair Conversely, beyond the New World introduc ing technology and better hygiene to the Old World, many European producers have noted the success of Australia or California for example and are making wines with more immediate appeal
We still enjoy pitting the Old World against the New World in blind tastings Once it was easy to distinguish one from the other; now it is no longer obvious. Nor is it the point of the exercise We ask wine tasting attendees to choose which they prefer without the influence of the label There is always that eye opening moment when someone chooses the Australian Chardonnay as their favourite after swearing how much they hate them. Blind tasting breaks down biases for or against countries.
When tasted against one another, the New World still seems to have a leg up on the Old World Riper and fruitier, the wines stand out and tend to be the favourites We put this to the test in our recent France versus California challenge, and California won What a surprise! The pinnacle of the tasting saw Napa Valley’s 2006 Rubicon fighting it out against the 2006 Calon Ségur from Bordeaux. The upfront seductive charms of the Rubicon were hard to resist, and the immediate pleasure it gave swayed voters Even so, most people agreed that with time and food, the 2006 Calon Ségur would shine Obviously, there are still differences between some Old and New World wines
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“Once it was easy to distinguish o n e f r o m t h e o t h e r ; n o w i t is no longer obvious.”
2008 Ogier, 'Les Brunelles' Crozes Hermitage AOC, France, $25 99 $32 00 (SKU #485250)
Sexy and suave with sensual notes of plum, iodine and violets; a classic example of a Nor thern Rhône Syrah Begging for game meat
2009 Escorihuela, ‘1884 Reser vado’ Syrah, Mendoza, Argentina, $17 00 $21 00 (SKU #744532)
Full bodied and meaty with plum, black licorice and raspberries flavours Fantastic on its own or, if you want to drink in Argentina’s honour, this wine is screaming for a juicy piece of steak An outstanding value!
2007 Phillipe Girard, Savigny Les Beaune, Vieille Vigne, Burgundy, France, $45 $50 00 (SKU #149039)
Friendly, approachable and juicy; three words that aren’t usually used to describe red Burgundy Sof t and supple flavours of cherr y and violet caress your palate A great match with tuna, salmon or coq au vin
2009 Josef Chromy, Pinot Noir, Tasmania, Australia $29 99 $32 00 (SKU #142588)
Pinot noir is not one of the grapes we typically associate with Australia; however, there are many gems from her cooler regions Tasmania is a great example Delicate ripe flavours of cherr y with subtle ear thy mushroom notes, the Josef Chromy could easily be mistaken for an Old World Pinot
2005 Château Bernadotte, Haut-Médoc AOC, Bordeaux, France, $50 55*(* Private Stores)
Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon with a healthy dose of Merlot Bright cassis, vanilla, mineral and green pepper notes Decanting is necessar y if opening it now, or put it away for four to five years You will be greatly rewarded Its firm structure and ear thy character are classically Old World and make it best enjoyed with food Lamb would be our pick
2006 Truchard Cabernet Sauvignon, Carneros, California, $27 99 $32 00 (SKU #749952)
Rich unctuous flavours of cassis, black plum and prunes Ver y charming and easy to drink on its own Will also pair with red meat of all types
2009 Balt hasar Ress, Hatt enheimer Sc hützenhaus, Kabine tt Riesling, Rheing au, Ger many, $22 $25 00 (SKU #50856)
Slightly of f dr y with mouth watering flavours of lemon curd and peaches Lingering mineral notes and fantastic structure Drink in abundance wit h spicy Asian food or cheese fondue That’s what we call excellent value for the money!
2009 Pewsey Vale, Riesling, Eden Valley, Australia, $29 32*
If you prefer dr y Riesling, Aus tralia is a great place to look Delicat e lime pie and peac h f lavours balanced by searing acidity Ideal with Asian food or as an aperitif
Chardonnay
2009 William Fèvre, Petit Chablis AOC, France, $27 49 $31 00 (SKU #811232)
Fresh, vibrant and delicate with flavours of citrus and minerals We can never get enough of Chablis A must with oysters If we didn’t tell you, you may never have guessed this was Chardonnay
2008 Vasse Felix, Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia, $34 39*
The cooler pockets of Australia are craf ting some of the New World’s best Chardonnay Generous and decadent flavours of butter, hazelnut and pineapple balanced with a firm spine of acidity Excellent!
2009 Paul Mas, Viognier, Vin de Pays d’Oc, France, $13 99 $16 00 (SKU #151100)
Rich expressive flavours of peach and apricot balanced by good acidity Delicious on its own or with richer seafood dishes and Asian food A crowd pleaser
2009 Cono Sur, Viognier, Chile, $10 99 $13 00 (SKU #566836)
The Chileans have embraced Viognier and environmentally friendly producer Cono Sur of fers a great example at an incredible price Friendly tropical and peach aromas make this wine a lovely aperitif
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While blind tastings are fun, they aren’t a true reflection of how we drink wine and will never adequately determine which is superior The only relevant answer is which you personally prefer. In choosing your preference though, judge the wine in the glass, not the label Also consider whether or not you are eating with your wine That ripe fruit forward Cali Cab may be the perfect choice when you’re sharing a social glass With your roast beef dinner, though, you may discover the more subtle charms of a perfectly aged Bordeaux.
It is still hotly debated whether or not the world of wine is becoming homogenous. Whatever your opinion, it is undeniable that both the Old World and the New World have benefitted from each other, and that the overall quality of wines has improved globally And that’s a bonus for all wine drinkers ~
Rhys is a wine educator, consult ant, judg e and free lance writer t hrough his com pany Wine Plus+ and his website www rhyspender com In 2010 Rhys became Canada’s youngest Master of Wine (MW) He wr it es for a number of publications, judges internationally and is increas ingly becoming recognized as one of Canada’s leading exper ts in t he wine business His career plan is to wait for Rober t Par ker to re tire so he can f inall y claim bac k his initials RP for wine reviews
Van Doren Chan’s immersion in t he Vancouver res t aurant industr y star ted from an early age, being born into a family of foodies Following a diverse prof essional culinar y career, Van tur ned her att ention to wine and joined t he Opus Hotel Vancouver as Sommelier in 2005, moving on to Salt Tas ting Room in 2010 She has now tur ned her att ention to t he wor ld of winemaking and is cur rentl y living in Osoyoos while also under tak ing t he Cour t of t he Mas t er Sommeliers cer tif ication program
In 1998 Be t h open t he f irs t VQA s tore in Victor ia (t he four th in the Province), and she hasn’t looked back Wit h over 20 years in t he liquor retailing industr y she has an extensive bac kg round in all areas of wine “ I love what I do wine is an integral par t of so many aspects of our daily life it is g reat t o assis t our cus tomers wit h ever yt hing from special events to what to ha ve wit h dinner on Wednesday night ”
RP There are many wines that would pair beautifully with our fantastic BC Spot Prawns. A crisp, zingy Chablis would be excellent, as would Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand or Sancerre But with the Pistou I would have to recommend a very, very ice cold and fresh Fino Sherry that would perfectly match the saltiness
VD Falanghina is one of the most important white grapes in Campania, Italy. Deep straw in color, it has a ripe honeysuckle nose, juicy stone fruit palate, and is low in acidity Falanghina’s fruit for ward characteristics will compliment the creaminess of David Woods’ Montana, and notes of dried herbs will enhance the sweetness of the spot prawns. The zesty quality makes it a palate refresher for the basil based Pistou.
BC I would recommend BC Pinot Gris Crisp and flavourful, with intensity of flavour and the acidity that develops in the Okanagan and Island climates would make it a fabulous match A style that has been fermented to dryness will stand up to the inten sity of the garlic and sheep milk cheese; but not overwhelm the delicious flavours of the spot prawns
RP With fresh BC strawberries I would look to the beautiful fruit wines of BC from producers such as Elephant Island, Rustic Roots or Forbidden Fruit There are some delicious Raspberry wines that would be a perfect balance and the Mulberry Pear from Rustic Roots would also work really well.
VD Cabernet Franc Icewine Local strawberries are pulpy, juicy and chewy, so I chose a wine that shares the same profile This wine has fruit characters of red currant and cherr y, and a hint of sumac spice to pair beautifully with strawberries The bright acidity in the wine gives the same tingling effect on your tongue as the tiny strawberry seeds do
BC I would have to go with a BC Icewine made from either Vidal or Ehrenfelser the acid in these two grape varieties is softer and the fruit more pronounced by the style of the wine, and therefore would balance the acidity and sweetness of the strawberries
Cowichan Bay, a picturesque seaside village a shor t drive nor th of Victoria, is emerging as a little culinary oasis on Vancouver Island and quickly becoming known as the gastronomic epi centre of the Cowichan Valley region. A vista of ocean, sail and fishing boats, piers, whar ves, floating homes, small shops and restaurants greet you as you come down the hill into the village. Most of the action takes place along the main street which runs along the waterfront. Visitors come to stroll the shops and galleries, enjoy a fine meal or simply to grab a snack. But the village is also becoming a hub for searching out and sampling local southern Vancouver Island foods and wines If it’s seafood you are looking for, the Cowichan Bay Seafood shop is the place to go Owners Gregg and Anne Best are commercial crab and prawn fishermen and pioneers in sustainable seafood production At their shop fresh from the sea, local spot prawns are the treat this season and the feature at the 3rd Annual Spot Prawn Festival A little fur ther along the street Hilar y’s Cheese & Deli offers visitors a change to relax and savour cheeses produced locally or from fur ther afield Bring summer onto your plate with Hilarys own fresh Chevre, the cheese of summer It's a natural with smoked salmon, fresh greens or local asparagus (Look for their new cheese shop to open in Victoria in May ) For 5 star, casually elegant dining, a shor t stroll will bring you to The Masthead Restaurant. Owner/manager Luke Harms has perfected the ar t of dining well with both the menu and the wine list celebrating local foods and wines from the nearby farms and wineries. The deck opens May long weekend and numerous new local wines have arrived. Check their website for upcoming special dinners including La Chaine des Rotisseurs. With many wonderful wineries close by, try the wine café at Rocky Creek Winer y, a wonderful outdoor patio. Buy a glass of one of their new releases such as Or tega, Pinot Gris, Rose, Pinot Noir and Blackberry and enjoy the view and listen to the outdoor music
Tofino South? Not quite yet, but this little laid back town has a bevy of A list culinary landmarks.
Sooke shines ever brighter as a culinar y destination With en Route magazine naming Edward Tuson and Gemma Claridge’s the EdGe one of its top 10 new Canadian restau rants of 2010, the little penturban town can now boast three award winning landmark establishments within town limits Add a small Saturday summer market, backroad farmgates, fresh roasted java at a hidden gem café, and an excellent baker y lunch spot, and its culinar y roadtrip appeal remains strong.
Consider these options for a weekend itinerary: Motor west along winding and scenic Hwy. 14 (or bike here via the Goose). Stock up on field fresh veggies, Cackleberry Hill Farm pies and Sheila Wallace’s organic granola at the Saturday market Oxygenate body and soul by exploring land, sea and still unspoilt sections of the under siege Juan de Fuca wilderness trail. If overnighting, book a room at the newly unboxed Prestige Hotel or one of three dozen B&Bs Then take your pick of dining establishments: big ticket by the sea at fabled Sooke Harbour House; charmingly candle lit at Markus’ Wharfside; or funky Sooke chic at Tuson and Claridge’s the EdGe in the heart of downtown.
at Markus’
Daytime options might include Little Vienna Baker y for organic breads and European style treats Around the corner, Stick in the Mud serves the town’s best java while giving drop ins the chance to match comic wits with owner Dave Evans and his ace baristas Enjoy books and hearty soups at the Reading Room Café or good pub grub at the Stone Pipe Grill. Sign up for a workshop at Ahimsa Yoga with raw food maestro Green Kelly (aka Kelly Proctor) The renovated retro diner ambience at Mom’s Café has made it a Sooke institution Thai, Mexican, Japanese and now Indian (namaste to Otter Point Bakery’s Narinder Singh) options are also available Or phone ahead for takeaway from Rock Beach Grill when heading towards Jordan River and Port Renfrew Stop to sample Bob Liptrot’s mead at Tugwell Creek Meadery And make a meal of it at Point No Point’s oceanfront aerie of a restaurant, home base for respected chef Jason Nienaber
Sooke is rapidly evolving into an affordable bedroom community. By contrast, though, the town’s top culinar y spots align neatly with the Sooke Transition Initiative, which champions sustainability and the grow/work/live locally philoso phy of the worldwide Transition Town movement Unlike the Cowichan, there’s not a lot of arable land here on the rocky west coast, but enough that suppliers like Mary Alice Johnson’s ALM Organic Farm, Candace Thompson’s Eagle Paws Organics and Rob and Josephine Hill’s Ragley Farm, among others, can deliver ample seasonal fresh ness The Sooke Region Food CHI Society runs a mentoring program for new farmers and its website (www sookefoodchi ca) lists 20 plus farms that operate as either farmgates or accept phone orders.
Frederique and Sinclair Philip, almost needless to say, gave Sooke its soaraway culinary credibility in the first place, anticipating trends more than three decades ago by transplanting the everyday norms of their experiences in France to what was then a humble five room inn on the edge of Whiffin Spit New chef Robin Jackson abides by the code established by his predecessors who refined the Sooke Harbour House’s slow food, fresh sheet ethos: Tuson, Michael Statländer, Peter Zambri, Pia Carroll, Brock Windsor and René Fieger included Raised in northern California but with Vancouver Island roots, Jackson, 29, was born into a food family: his mum Joan, now a Metchosin resident, ran a cooking school and his uncles a charcuterie He refined his kitchen chops in Taos, San Francisco and Anchorage (where he was executive chef at the upscale Sacks Café), studied environmental science and got passionate about foraging and shellfish cultivation at an Alaskan ecolodge He’d long had his sights on Sooke’s Conde Nast venerated inn, however, and after “being the persistent guy who kept showing up at the kitchen door,” he was hired as sous chef by Sam Benadetto prior to the latter’s departure last year for Zambri’s in Victoria.
“This is nature’s gift to a chef,” Jackson says, sweeping an arm across an arc that takes in the inn’s edible gardens and the seascape beyond “I have a little cottage on the water in East Sooke, so I harvest seaweeds and shore herbs on the way in to work, some days stopping at Ragley to pick up orders. Sooke is the best place a chef can possibly be on the west coast of North America with all the herbs, mushrooms, seaweeds and varieties of fish ” The new kid is likeable, knowledgeable and genuinely thrilled to be part of a crack team that includes head gardener Byron Cook (now over seeing the inn’s own Sooke Harbour Farm) and master pastry chef Matthias Conradi. Alumni like Tuson, meanwhile, are but a phone call away for advice and support.
The iconic Tuson, a bearded, nose ringed, salt of the earth type with a wry sense of humour, has settled into a hard working routine at the EdGe, turning tables twice during busy lunch hours filled with loyal Sookies, then serving an evening trade drawn by menu favourites like his trademark crispy albacore tuna. He, Gemma and her young daughter live not far off on a three acre farm with 300 fruit trees, a herd of heritage hogs and no less than five motorcycles Their mission: To scale back their working hours to four days a week so as to handle “the ton of other work” that needs doing on the farm, says Tuson. It’s a distinct possibility given the restaurant’s A list reputation, the surprise success of the lunch rush and a hands on approach to makeovers (the chef, a fan of ex rapper Vanilla Ice’s DIY reno show, is also the EdGe’s go to handy man) New for 2011: Takeaway sausages and salami cured by the charcuterie master plus a comfy new banquette to serve summertime’s consistent line ups.
Managing the work/life balance is also a priority for Markus Weiland and Tatum Claypool, who now reside in a matching blue home mere feet from the cottage style restaurant they opened in 2004 “We’re here for the lifestyle, the climate and the com munity,” says Claypool as she pours a glass of Kettle Valley merlot to match a truffled yolk raviolo appetizer featuring a free range egg from Amy Rubidge’s nearby Barefoot Farm Like colleagues elsewhere in town, their ambitions with Markus’ Wharfside are modest; there is plenty enough joy and artisanal pride to be had in serving their base of repeat customers in a pair of warm, cozy rooms certified as a B C Culinary Tourism Destination. The property now features a vegetable and herb garden built by Weiland, known among loyalists for his exceptional Tuscan style seafood soup, risotto specials and panna cotta At the next table are a pair of regulars turned friends who drop in routinely to share snapshots of grandchildren and stories with ser ver/ sommelier Tracy Wilson “This place is like an extension of some people’s homes,” laughs Claypool, “so I guess that makes us a new kind of mom and pop.”
The local scene continues to evolve at a gentle pace Dave Evans, who opened the Stick on the numerically significant 7/7/07, takes his coffee seriously (viz last year’s addition of a roaster) and has also developed some unique food items (Acadian style puff pastries, the grilled sandwich Stick Pop) that will soon utilize fresh herbs from a backdoor garden At the Little Vienna, meanwhile, Albertans Susan and Michael Nyikes purchased the business from its founding owners in the fall, inheriting veteran baker Mario Desfosses in the process to ensure no change in the quality of Sooke’s near daily organic bread and signature cinnamon rolls (aka “schneckes”). Expect to see more shelf items (jams, honeys, spreads) in the future. A bistro menu will make good use of the Little Vienna’s arboured patio on Saturday nights this summer beginning May long weekend Chalk up one more reason to visit the little town with the big, beautiful food reputation ~
VICTORIA: In the last edition of the Victoria Buzz, we promised to continue following changes in kitchens around the city When we lef t of f, Chef Takahashi Ito had just lef t the Empress and moved to Aura At t he beginning of April, Chef Kamil Silva took over as Executive Chef at t he Empress Chef Silva has worked at Fairmont Hotels for the past decade, most recently as executive chef at the Fairmont Vancouver Airpor t
Other shif ts that have occurred recently include the opening of t he new Oak Bay Bistro in the former Blethering Place location Chef John Waller (ex Wickanninish Inn) has created the menu, and owners Bar t Reed and Petr Prusa have transformed t he iconic tea room into a West Coast restaurant, open daily for breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner In Chinatown, another tearoom has changed hands Venus Sophia, opened in 2009, has been sold to Sallie and Alain El Alaily The tearoom maintains the same whimsical character, though the couple has put together a new menu which reflects their Egyptian, Swiss and Italian backgrounds
I think I can speak for all food lovers in Victoria when I say how sad we are to say goodbye to Plenty From the fresh local flowers, plants and herbs outside the door, to the delicious smell that greeted you when you opened the door, the cup of tea of fered as you looked over the shelves bursting with all manner of treats or hard to find spices, and always just the right soundtrack playing in the background Plenty truly was a pleasure to all t he senses It will be greatly missed, and we of fer Trevor, Erica and t heir family, along with all the lovely staf f, our best wishes for whatever the future holds. No small consolation how ever, comes in knowing that Hilar y’s Cheese is set to open up in t he same For t St location on May 12t h, filling what would other wise be a lamentable void Hilar y ’ s will continue to carr y some of the spices and chocolates Plenty introduced us to, as well as their own beautiful cheese selection (www hilar yscheese com)
All of our finger crossing paid of f , Cor y Pelan has announced that his new Ar tisan Salumeria shop, The Whole Beast is scheduled to open in mid May at 2032 Oak Bay Ave, of fering housed cured meats and sausage Cor y will be the first in Victoria to be using water buf falo meat from the Fairburn Farm herd Sample it in his water buf falo pepperoni (www thewholebeast ca)
On May 21st, from 11am 3 pm, Ottavio Italian Baker y and Delicatessen celebrates A Day in France with a French Market complete with music, wine tasting, cheeses, olive tastings and a special café menu Keep an eye on the website for details on their Festa Italiana, coming in June (www ottaviovictoria com)
The ICC may have given a new name to its annual fundraiser, but the Local Food Fest (formerly known as Defending Our Backyard) will still be held at the picturesque For t Rodd Hill on June 12th In addition to tasting local food prepared by Island chefs, this is a great oppor tunity to learn more about growing your own food and getting involved in food security (www iccbc ca)
The Fernwood Inn was the subject of a successful Carrotmob in March in fact, the biggest Carrot mob in t he wor ld, raising over 8K for g reen renovations, whic h was matc hed by General Manag er Mic hael Colwill The Inn has jus t celebrat ed its 4t h anniversar y under present ownership (www fernwoodinn com)
The Niagara Grocer y, which just passed the two year mark at their James Bay Location, has expanded
On the topic of chocolates, in mid April, David Mincey and Paige Robinson of Camille’s Rstaurant launched a new retail display at Cook Culture, offering only “bean to bar” manufactured dark chocolate This is the first in a series of new products from the new company showcasing “the true tastes of the world’s great foodstuffs”, the mission of Mincey’s new company, Preservation Foods. With over bars ($8 $20) for sale do yourself a big favour and check out the array Available at Cook Culture, cookculture com
operations to Fair f ield Like its James Bay count er par t, Fair f ield Marke t also roas ts org anic cof f ee in house under their Mile O label, as well as carr ying Por tofino breads, Cowichan Bay seafood, Slater’s Meats, Suntrio produce, and farm eggs from Haggis Farms on Saturna Island The new location is on Oscar St, near the corner of Fair field and Moss, and is open seven days a week Rebecca Baugniet
NANAIMO: With the mid island all abuzz with a renewed sense of adventure, late Spring har vests and a healthy handful of new dining and culinar y experiences So take a little time and explore the abundant mid island! New to the region is Blu Burrito in Parksville featuring a Southwest Mexican inspired menu all made from scratch As the name suggests burritos are the specialty where you can tailor your own combination of flavour ful fillings or trust your taste buds to the fixed burrito menu created by owner Sandy Johnson and her team Of course you will want to wash it all down with a delicious fresh lime margarita (491 Eas t Island Highway, 250 586 7 782) Recently opened on Bowen Road in N anaimo, Mix is proving to be a well executed blend of modern bistro and homemade comfor t Here Chef Jef f Wright works his magic to deliver made from scratch specialties like pulled pork , chicken pot pie and braised lamb (www mixnanaimo com, 250 585 1748) Diner’s Rendezvous has just released their new seasonal menu, which keeps some fan favourites (Oh, that Little Black Dress!) and introduces some new creations that focus on local seafood Owner chef Thomas Rober tshaw at Acme Food Co (www acmefoodco ca 250 753 0042) keeps his promise for a fun feast with an original “all you can eat” sushi menu, which they now “roll out” all day ever y Tuesday!
The Parksville Uncorked Wine and Food Festival (www parksvilleuncorked com) once again put on an impressive and indulgent display of BC’s best wine, beer and culinar y wares, with the mid island well represented. One highlight was the Road 13 Wine Makers Dinner at the Tigh Na Mara Resor t, where chef Eric Edwards and team presented 5 courses of brilliantly paired creations If you missed this event or like me, can’t wait to relive the experience, Tigh Na Mara will be hosting Okanagan’s See Ya Later Ranch and winemaker Mason Spink for another dinner on June 2, 2011 Visit www tigh na mara com or call 1 800 663 7373 for more information
For a tasty weekend adventure, I highly recommend an af ternoon of meandering through the pastoral Westholme area of Nor th Cowichan Star t with a visit to the lovely Saison Market Vineyard where the bustling baker y café of fers a bounty of pastr y, tor tes, cakes, fresh crusty breads and savouries suited for lunch (www saisonmarket ca 250 597 0484) Then head to the Tea Farm (www teafarm ca 250 748 3811) to see Canada’s first “in the ground” tree plantation This is a great way to experience the innovative ef for t by many mid island farmers to produce products not traditional to the region Hosts Victor Veseley and Margit Nellemann will tell the stor y behind their tea and brew up one of their many special blends in their new tearoom I can guarantee the hospitality of your hosts will warm you up as much as what t hey put in your cup! A little fur t her south in Cobble Hill, Marisa Goodwin of Organic Fair is gearing up for summer with a new line of ice cream, sorbet and sodas using ingredi ents from her farm including lavender, strawberries and Douglas Fir to name just a few Also new is ice cream t akeaway by t he pint but be sure to par t ake onsit e too since you don’t want to miss t he oppor tunity of a handmade organic waf fle cone! (www organicfair com (250) 733 2035) Back in Nanaimo, t he Farmer’s markets are gearing up for t he season where you can find more information on locations and times at www Islandfarmersalliance org If you don’t have time to forage Dee’s Harbour City (Spin) Farm is in production as of May 15t h and provides a weekly box deliver y program of sustainable organic fruits and vegetables (www deesfarm ca) Or you can drop in to the recently opened Old City Organics to check out their daily selection of fresh picks While in the Old City Quar ter be sure to stop into McLean’s Specialty Foods (www mcleansfoods com 250 754 0100) to wish Eric and Sandy McLean all the best as they embark on their 20th year of ser ving up the finest of cheeses and arguably the best selection of hard to find foods nor th of Victoria Karma Brophy
COMOX VALLEY: As I write the Comox Valley Buzz the renowned Snowbirds are per forming ballet in the skies above 19th wing Comox, herring are spawning on t he Salish Sea shores and our valley floor is being ploughed in preparation for this year ’ s bounty. Spr inging for ward t he Comox Valley Far mers Marke t will be bac k outside on Saturday mor nings locat ed next to t he Exhibition Grounds at 4835 Headq uar t ers Rd For a lis t of vendors, per formers, market hours and information go to www comoxvalleyfarmersmarket com
There is no better excuse for foodies to visit the Comox Valley this June than the BC Shellfish Festival Par tnering the people who grow our food with the people who creatively prepare and ser ve it to the public is a mandate of the B CSF. British Columbians are extremely for tunate to have a plethora of delicious, nutritious and sustainable food grown on our doorstep and this is something we should all celebrate. For two days in June, guests will experience an array of activities that offer something for everyone. Beginning on June 17 with the Chefs’ Dinner, 200 guests will be treated to a gourmet 6 course seafood supper prepared by some of BC’s top chefs The evening star ts off with a complimentary oyster raw bar ser ved by three BC oyster growers from different regions and a geoduck sampling with a cash Hester Creek wine and Phillips Brewery beer bar while Comox Valley’s Emily Spiller weaves her musical web on guests in the background Each course during the dinner will be exper tly paired with the perfect wine This year’s chefs feature highly respected culinary pioneers from across our province including C Restaurant E xecutive Chef, co founder of Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise program for ocean sustainability and recent winner of the Seafood Champion Award at the Boston Seafood Show Rober t Clark(Vancouver); Vista 18’s E xecutive Chef and Island Chef member G arrett Schack (Victoria); Black Rock Resor t Executive Chef Andrew Springett (Ucluelet); Crown Isle Resor t E xecutive Chef Andrew Stigant (Cour tenay); Market Street Café owner/chef Richard Verhagen (Salt Spring Island) and G atehouse Bistro’s Chef Belinda Jones (Cumberland) These chefs share a passion for not only providing delicious and healthy food to the masses, but are dedicated to sourcing their food from sustainable resources This is a unique culinary event in that it par tners growers with chefs and takes place outdoors, under tents, along the shores of Baynes Sound Canada’ oyster growing capital.
The festivities continue Saturday June 18 at Comox Marina Park with a main stage featuring many events, highlighted by the B C Oyster Shucking Championships. One winner will be flown to Charlottetown, PE I in September to compete in the International Shucking Championships to represent the best of BC with some spending cash thrown in On hand to judge the competitions are Vancouver Sun columnist/ Global TV ’s Nathan Fong, CBC’s Don Genova and Chef Jonathan Chovancek of Vancouver
Other main stage events include the Comox Valley’s Best Chowder Competition and three outstanding musical acts including Blackberry Wood from Vancouver, Luke Blu Guthrie from Comox and Skagway, an emerging bluegrass band from Nanaimo. Food vendors will be paired with different growers offering their treats to the public and a large beer/wine garden will be set up half in and half out of the main festival tent.
Five cooking demos will take place on the secondary stage throughout the day by such renowned chefs as Avenue Bistro’s E xecutive Chef Aaron Rail of Comox; E xecutive Chef Ronald St Pierre of Locals in Cour tenay; Deerholme Farms’ Chef Bill Jones of the Cowichan Valley; Adrian Merrilees, Executive Chef at Fluid Bar & Grill in Cour tenay and Chef Jonathan Chovancek of Culinary Capers in Vancouver
Other events around the Valley that weekend include a shellfish cooking class taking place at Beyond the Kitchen Door in Cour tenay on Sunday, June 19, 2011 with guest chef G arrett Schack from Vista 18 in Victoria. Several restaurants throughout the Valley will also be offering shellfish specials throughout the week leading up to the festival including Avenue Bistro.
As a family friendly event, there will be a kid’s activities area featuring a touch tank, a face painting station and also a drawing station. Kids under 12 enter the grounds free. Admission for over 12 years old for the day is $5 Visit www bcshellfishfestival ca for more information
•Two Night Festival Package star ting from $199 99 per person (based on double occupancy)
•Gues t Room onl y Fes tival Rat e s t ar ting from $105 per night, wit h a full hot buf fet breakfast included
Call 1 800 668 7 797 and ask about t he BC Shellfish Festival rate or package
Old House Village Hotel & Spa
• Package includes accommodation, tickets to the Chefs’ Dinner, Festival Day tickets and breakfast
Call 1 800 668 7 797 and ask about t he BC Shellfish Festival rate or package Crown Isle Resor t & Golf Community
• Package includes discounts on rooms and free shuttle ser vice to and from t he Chef s ’ Dinner on June 17t h
Call 1 800 668 7 797 and ask about t he BC Shellfish Festival rate or package. Enter to Win t he BC Shellfish Getaway Pac kage at DiscoverComoxValley com
Growing out of the farmers market are great business ideas Locals Restaurant, who operates under the mandate ‘food from the hear t of the Island’, is one of them Chef/Owner Ronald St. Pierre has seasonal set price Table D’hôte and spring menus available at both dinner and lunch ser vice featuring all the Valley has to of fer On Mother’s Day a special of fering for the special lady, a 5 course dinner with local wine pairings will be available Locals will be par ticipating at Edible B.C on Granville Island June 5th, by hosting B.C. Chefs Dinner showcasing the Comox Valley Reser vations and information please contact the website www localscomoxvalley com
Vendors of the market like the faithful folks at Natural Pastures make great cheese and are being rewarded by their peers in agriculture by recently receiving federal funds to help them continue to grow A new cheese on t he market is the Smoked Boerenkaas, a product Smoken Bones Cookshac k of Victoria did the dir ty work for by naturally cold smoking the Boerenkass For more info Natural Pastures cheese products and their availability go to www naturalpastures com.
Hard work at t he market has also led Rosa and Chris Graham to swing open t he doors of t he Purple Onion Delicatessen at 146 Por t Augusta Rd in Comox Her legendar y selection of tamales and salsa from the market are available along with market fresh specials, gourmet cof fees and select grocer y
A new business location has also become a reality for Comox Valley Bakehouse, David and Sonya Thompson moved their operation into a new space at 2998 C Kilpatrick road David attended Malaspina(now VIU) and took culinar y ar ts with a specialty in baking and pastries He turns out 25 dif ferent breads a day while bringing back what an ar tisan baker y really means, ever ything is hand made from scratch ever y morning Pastries and gourmet cof fee are of fered along with breakfast and lunch treats, visit them at www comoxvaleybakehouse com
It’s always nice to find a great bottle of B C wine The Cour tenay B.C. VQA wine store is now open and able to make that happen, Cindy Holland and staf f are dedicated exclusively to promoting the finest B C wines and stock over 300 labels including Ice and desser t wines Visit the store located at #7 3195 Clif fe Ave. for wine accessories, gif t baskets and great customer ser vice from the only B.C. VQA store nor th of Victoria on Vancouver Island or go online at www cour tenayvqawines com
Cour tenay’s newest culinar y and enter tainment destination Flying Canoe West Coast Pub is now open at the Westerly Hotel & Convention Centre Featuring Classic Pub fare made from the fresh est of local ingredients and featuring authentic Forno fired pizzas made right in front of your eyes The Pub will feature local enter tainment and is currently showcasing An Intimate Evening of Conversation & Song with Sue Medley and Special Guests ever y Thursday night from 7 to 10 pm until June 16 Go on line to access menus and other per formances at www thewesterlyhotel com
Atlas Cafe has a new kid's menu for the budding gourmand and best of all kid's size desser ts A seasonal menu for parents is available upon request if the kids won’t share This is great because, the family that eats together stays together www atlascafe ca
Over at Avenue in addition to releasing a new spring/summer menu, Chef Aaron is looking for ward to the BC Shellfish Festival Aaron will be teaching classes, par ticipating in the chowder compe tition and of fering up some delicious creations for sampling www avenuebistro ca
The BC Shellfish Festival will take place on the shores of Baynes Sound with two spectacular events On Friday June 17th at the Filberg Heritage Lodge and Park top chefs from all across B C will ser ve a 6 course dinner paired with B C wine Then Saturday June 18th at the Comox Marina Park from 12pm till 10pm Per formances by Luke Blu Guthrie Band, Skagway and Blackberr ywood will rock out while chefs compete in a chowder competition, the west coast shucking competition takes place with winners going to nationals in PEI this September The day will be rounded out by cooking demonstrations by local and celebrity chefs for spectators to watch and eat www bcshellfishfestival com
Cong ratulations to Comox Valley resident Honorable Don McRea for landing t he Minis t er of Agriculture por tfolio Let us have a moment of silence for the now burned down Lorne Hotel, it was a landmark in Comox and it will be missed Eli Blake
VANCOUVER: Oyster Seafood and Raw Bar, barely bigger than the bibalve’s shell (six bar seats, three high tops and two cur ved booths) and tucked away in the original Vancouver Stock Exchange building at 475 Howe Street, has, without a doubt, the best 3pm 6pm buck a shuck in town No fewer than a half dozen premium gems are on ice Muscadet, the quintessential oyster wine is of fered by the glass, as are natty premixed cocktails in tiny cork topped bottles A great af ter work (or wine tasting in my case) go to Knock of f early for the best selection of oysters (The squid ceviche, too, is a must tr y) No buck a shucks at Joe For tes Seafood and Chop House (still going strong af ter 25 years) but we slurp a half dozen Chef Creeks anyway while perusing the superb 4 6pm happy hour menu fish tacos, beef carpaccio, yam fries, fried oysters, to ream of f just a few tasty nibbles $5 each or 3 for $11 Go for a Guinness or Joe For tes un oaked Chardonnay for this one
As thin crust pizzas crisped in Rocky Mountain Flatbread Bullfrog Wood Stone Oven, a motley gath er ing of jour nalis ts, environmentalis ts and res taurateurs gave ear to Tom Heintzman, president of
Bullfrog Power He explained why we should switch to green gas Bullfrog power relies on the energy rich gas from decaying organic matter in our ever yday waste stream The then cleaned, wind and water driven fuel is injected into the national pipeline, displacing fossil fuel based sources The result? Less carbon, a clean conscience, (and as far as RMF goes, a darn fine pizza) Salt Spring Island Cof fee Company is also committed to Bullfrog Power As of June, we were told, Dad’s cookies (a Kraf t product) will also be Bullfrog produced and logo’d You might say we ’ re pretty stoked on the idea Vegetables ruled at the 12th annual BCPMA Healthy Chef Competition, a fundraiser for the Cancer Socie ty and Hear t and S troke Foundation I hardl y associat e r ight eous eating wit h playing roule tt e Never theless River Rock Casino Resor t hit the jackpot and won the event’s first annual Healthy Plate Award braised sea cucumber, shiitake mushrooms, pea sprouts and prawns The Hyatt Regency kitchen balanced Indian spiced beef tenderloin wit h T ikki spring vegetables to earn t he prize for bes t entrée Goldfish Kitchen turned out a ver y nice pork loin with 5 vegetable pave. Personally I was all over Well Restaurant’s Rabbit’s Feast leg, roulade and sausage ser ved alongside braised red cabbage, roasted golden beets, sauteed zucchini and squash and, naturally, carrots Goes to show t hat chefs are really stepping up to the plate with the veggies Fade to black , the days of mushy broccoli and over dressed ice berg lettuce as sole accompaniments to that hunk o ’ protein My mother’s 1966 edition of The Laura Secord Canadian Cookbook, is in loving tatters Imagine my delight to it republished in its original format as par t of t he Classic Canadian Cookbook Series From Newfoundland Blueberr y Wine, to Acadian Chicken; from Niagara Peach Pie to Red River Scotch Broth; from Calgar y Pumpkin Cake to Fraser River Stuf fed Salmon the home cook travels east to west via distinct regional recipes A few words of local culinar y lore introduces each This gem of a cookbook plays a vital role in our nation’s heritage (and the recipes really work!) Julie Pegg
TOFINO: There’s a lot to cover in this column as we lead into summer on the west coast of the island Firs t of all, a new culinar y fes tival is taking place t his year Feast! Tof ino Ucluelet is a mont h long celebration of both the culinar y talent and fresh seafood ingredients available in the area. Co sponsored by EAT, Feas t r uns from May 8 to June 4 and has many facets to it, including dine around menus at par ticipating restaurants Salmon is the featured seafood in the first week; followed by crab, then spot prawns There will be Saturday whar f f es tivals eac h week , gues t c hef s (look for Duncan Ly at t he Wickaninnish Inn, Rob Feenie at SoBo, Peter Zambri at Shelter, JC Poirier at Spotted Bear Bistro to name a few appearances), and other special events and deals around town Visit www feastbc com for all the details and see the EAT ar ticle from the March/April issue here: http://bit ly/f88M72
Feast leads directly into t he 9th annual Tofino Food and Wine Festival, June 3 5 Anot her event co sponsored by EAT; this three day festival brings together food pur veyors with wineries, cideries, and
breweries for a weekend of events A new event this year is *Beinvenue: Life is Better with BC Bubbles * on June 3 This welcoming evening reception is a drop in at Dar win’s Café at the Tofino Botanical Gardens, presented by the festival organizer Kira Rogers along with BC wineries and oyster suppliers
Also as par t of the festival events is the *Epicurean Showcase* at Long Beach Lodge Resor t on June 2 This is a reception featuring the Lodge’s suppliers and Kettle Valley winemaker Bob Ferguson pour ing his favourites Visit www longbeachlodgeresor t com for more details, or phone 250 725 24 42
The Wickaninnish Inn is hosting a Cedar Creek winemaker’s dinner with Darr yl Brooker pouring pair ings to Chef Nick Nutting’s courses on June 3 Visit www wickinn com to reser ve seats or phone 250 725 3100
The main TFWF event is Grazing in the Gardens on Sat , June 4 from 1 4pm Wander through the lush ground of the TBG while sampling wine, beer, cider, and tasty treats And finally, Wildside Booksellers is hosting cookbook author Caren McSherr y for a cooking event on Sunday, the last day of the festival. Contact Wildside at 250 725 4222 or visit www tofinoseakayaking com Keep up to date with this and other festival events and book tickets online for the main event at www tofinofoodandwinefestival com
It’s time! Tof ino Brewing Company was scheduled to open its doors and release its brews to t he public at the end of April Brew master David Woodward (formerly of the Whistler Brew House) and co owners Br yan O’Malley and Chris Neufeld bring us Tofino’s long awaited first craf t brewer y Their Tuf f Session Pale Ale and Hop In Cretin IPA are available from the brewer y itself at 681 Industrial Way (Units C and D) in Tofino Check the website for more information at www tofinobrewco com
Several local restaurants outdid themselves at the food events that were par t of the 26th annual Pa cif ic Rim Whale Fes tival in Marc h Congratulations to Tof ino Tea Bar, t he winners of t he People’s Choice award at t he Mar tini Mig ration, and to t he judg e ’ s c hoice, Middle Beac h Lodg e Shelt er Restaurant won for Best Decorated Booth from both the judges and attendees The big winner at the Chowder Chowdown was Wildside Grill, who took home the People’s Choice and the Judge’s Choice awards This was shor tly af ter CBC T V personality Rick Mercer tweeted about their lunch: “the best fish taco ever. Really.” Jen Dar t
Find the Okanagan Buzz on page 36 this just in
There’s new restaurant opening in Cowichan Bay in the Oceanfront resor t called Terrain Regional Kitchen According to their FB page “[There will be a] heavy focus on local every thing From produce to protein to wine to anything I can get my hands on” We’re told a Sushi bar and a Sunday brunch buffet will be added in the near future. Open 7 days a week with breakfast, lunch and dinner ser ved. 1681 Cowichan Bay Road, Cowichan Bay, terrainregionalkitchen.com
