EAT Magazine 16-03 May|June 2012

Tapas

Concierge

Hynes

Community Reporters

Nanaimo: Karma Brophy, Tofino | Uclulet: Jen Dart, Vancouver : Anya Levykh, Okanagan: Claire Sear, Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet, Comox Valley: Eli Blake

Web

Reporters

Deanna Ladret, Ellie Shortt

Contributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, E z r a C i p e s , Jennifer Danter, Jen Dart, Jasmon Dosanj, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Tracey Kusiewicz, Anya Levykh, Ceara Lornie, Denise Marchessault, Sandra McKenzie, Michaela Morris, Elizabeth Nyland, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Elizabeth Smyth, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Caroline West

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark Advertising: 250 384 9042, editor@eatmagazine ca Mailing

Fer nwood Bites

To some of you the name “Funky Junky Fernwood” may ring a bell But approximately seven years ago, what was once perhaps a less reputable part of Victoria has now blossomed into one of the most cultured and friendly areas of the city The change is thanks in part to Fernwood NRG (Neighbourhood Resource Group Society), a social enterprising non profit organization run by and for the resi dents of the neighbourhood who first purchased the Cornerstone building in August 2005, and then transformed the space into affordable housing for families Since then they have expanded to include more affordable housing undertakings in addition to childcare and family programs, employment opportunity sourcing and other projects with the goal of raising the value of living in the Fernwood area.

Of course, one of the best ways of building neighbourly relationships is through the connecting power of food, and one of Fernwood NRG’s biggest and well attended fundraisers is based upon edible enjoyments On June 24, this organization will be holding the 3rd annual Fernwood Bites event, showcasing the gastronomic talents of Fernwood businesses as well as other local eateries and chefs from around southern Vancouver Island Mila Czemerys, who helps organize this event, recognizes the integral part food has played in the growth of the Fernwood community

The event runs for two and a half hours in Fernwood Square and has sold out the last two years. For a $50 ticket, guests are able to sample an unlimited array of food and drink from some of Victoria’s greatest talents, and with a firm cap on 300 attendees, this intimate event gives both vendors and guests the opportunity to get to know each other through more face to face interactions than they might have otherwise had in a restaurant setting. “This is a great opportunity for us to showcase all the cool aspects of Fernwood,” says Mike Colwill, owner of the Fernwood Inn. “This is a unique community and I love seeing people fall in love with the different tastes of our square it’s great to engage with them on a personal level ”

Not only is this a great event for businesses to interact with patrons both new and old, but because Fernwood invites vendors from outside of the neighbourhood, it’s also a wonderful opportunity for strenghening ties within the local food scene as a whole Torin Egan, head chef of The Superior, participated in the event last year and is reminded of a particularly great relationship that came from his neighbouring vendor. “Last year we were situated beside Sea Cider and just through chatting with them at the event, we were able to begin a great working relationship that we continue to uphold today I look forwards to seeing what other relationships will come out of this year’s event ”

Though a great event to build awareness and funds for the Fernwood neighbour hood, Jena Stewart of Devour, a participant in the event since the beginning, adds that this is a great opportunity for overall growth in the Victoria food community “Victoria isn't all that big, however we see its food scene growing, and that means creating a widespread network of food makers and consumers I think if we are all to succeed, a 'coming together' of those of us in the industry is essential, no matter where the event is being held I love the idea of a citywide food culture!”

Tickets have been on sale since April 10th and are available at www fernwood ca, with all proceeds going to support Fernwood NRG By Ellie Shortt

Local markets are all about freshness, fun, and community.

Vendors of these markets make, bake, and grow ever ything. Farmers bring to you their farm fresh, wholesome foods, from fruits & vegetables, organics,,meats, seafood, and eggs to specialty cheese, jams, salsa, donuts, and so much more.

Ar tisan o er specialty, one of a k ind, locally made potter y produc ts Connec t direc tly with local farmers who personally bring their goods to your plate or the Enjoy quality seasonal food, picked at the height of its natural har vest. Take time to suppor t local farmers and ar tisans in an atmosphere of festivity and community to positively impac t your environment by buying within the shor test distance to where you live. Good for you; good for ever yone.

Stellys Cross Rd, Central Saanich

Thursdays (5:30pm 8:30pm), Jun Aug

Beacon Avenue in Sidney

Saturdays (8:30am 4pm), Apr Oct

Centennial Park in the hear t of Ganges

Metchosin Farmers’ Market

Sundays (11am 2pm), May Oct

4450 Happy Valley Rd, behind the rehall

MAYSPRING OKANAGAN WINE FESTIVAL

After watching their vines sleep for months, local BC winemakers and vineyards cel ebrate the arrival of spring and the waking of the vines with a glass or two of wine. Spread over the first two weeks of May, the Spring Okanagan Wine Festival busts loose with over 100 events throughout the valley May 4 13 (www thewinefestivals com)

DEERHOLME FARM FORAGES AND DINNERS

Spring events at Deerholme Farm include a Morel Mushroom and Pasture Raised Chicken feast on May 5 (Mother’s Day Weekend) and a Wild Food Forage on May 19(Victoria Day Weekend) (www deerholme com)

EPIC: VANCOUVER SUN SUSTAINABLE LIVING EXPO

Western Canada's largest sustainable lifestyle show and eco marketplace This annual celebration of planet friendly living with over 300 green companies, inspiring ideas, exciting entertainment, and smart shopping in one jam packed weekend Cooking demonstrations with Vancouver's top Green Table chefs and more. May 11 13. (www vancouver epicexpo com/)

FIRST ANNUAL VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL TEQUILA EXPO

This event will take place on Saturday, May 12 at the Vancouver Convention Centre East. It will feature seminars and tastings, and is sponsored by Las Margaritas Mexi can Restaurant and the Consulate General of Mexico Proceeds will benefit the British Columbia Hospitality Foundation (BCHF), the hospitality industr y's own charity (www vancouvertequilaexpo com)

4th ANNUAL SPOT PRAWN FESTIVAL

This year’s festival is a cooperative effort between the town of Cowichan Bay and the Pacific Prawn Fishers Association Special Guest at this year’s event will be Robert Clark, Executive Chef of C Restaurant in Vancouver. A family friendly, fun weekend of chef demos, spot prawn sampling, music and spot prawn sales fresh off the boats. Local eateries will be featuring a spot prawn dish or menu for the week following the event May 12 13 (www cowichanbayseafood com)

FEAST! TOFINO UCLUELET

A collaboration between the area’s renowned chefs, fishermen and women, accom modation providers, activity providers and tour operators, Feast! Tofino Ucluelet cel ebrates the abundance of local produce, seafood and sustainable " boat to table " practices commonly adopted by the area's restaurants. This week’s festival is divided into two parts; Salmon Festival Week (May 18 25) and Spot Prawn Festival Week (May 25 June 2) (www feastbc com)

A TASTE OF FRANCE AT PAPRIKA BISTRO

Paprika Bistro will host an evening of fine French food on Tuesday May 29th. Join the Paprika team and Stuart Brown for a four course wine and food tasting 7pm Call 250 592 7424 for reservations (www paprika bistro com)

ANNUAL LUND SHELLFISH FESTIVAL

From May 27 29, the shores of Lund Harbour are transformed into an outdoor festi val boasting food vendors selling a variety of freshly cooked oysters, clams, mussels, prawns, and other delights Festivities include a Chowder Challenge, live music, craft booths, shellfish sales, art shows, free cooking demonstrations, BC’s Best Oysters Com petition, contests, and kids’ play area. Lund’s Shellfish Festival is handicap accessible and all waste is recycled (no garbage is produced) (www lundbc ca)

JUNE

TOFINO FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL

Now in their 9th year, this festival celebrates the marriage of food and wine, with the main event, Grazing in the Gardens, showcasing local culinary talents and British Co lumbia wines, in the beautiful Tofino Botanical Gardens. Events of the festival support several non profit organizations and initiatives, including Tofino Botanical Gardens Foundation, Community Children’s Centre and Tofino’s Community Garden, Light

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead the concierge desk by Rebecca Baugniet

For more events visit www eatmagazine ca

house Trail and Multi Use Path (MUP). June 1 3. (tofinofoodandwinefestival.com)

ICC LOCAL FOOD FEST

This annual fundraiser supporting the ICC’s micro loan fund for farmers aims to en gage and inspire the public through their palates, with an afternoon spent savouring the finest food and beverages the Island has to offer. June 10 at Fort Rodd Hill. (www iccbc ca)

V.I.C. FEST

The second annual V.I.C. Fest (Vancouver Island Cultural Festival) will be held in Vic toria, BC on Saturday, June 16th at St Ann’s Academy in the heart of Downtown It is a one day outdoor festival held at the historic St Ann’s Academy This year a sec ond stage has been added featuring the Island’s most talented performers A sprawl ing orchard will host the Island’s best local breweries along with a newly improved and expanded wine garden featuring wineries from around Vancouver Island V I C Fest will also showcase local food vendors and delicious Island cuisine (www vicfest ca)

BC SHELLFISH FESTIVAL

For one weekend in June, Vancouver Island hosts the largest shellfish festival on the West Coast Featuring live entertainment, cooking demos by some of the industry’s top chefs, sea worthy competitions and lots of locally grown, sustainably harvested shell fish The event kicks off with a six course Chefs Dinner on Friday, June 15, featuring a great lineup of local chefs, including Ned Bell, Bill Jones, Ronald St. Pierre and more. June 15 16 in Comox (www bcshellfishfestival ca)

FERNWOOD BITES

This will be the third annual “Local Fare in an Urban Square” food and drink tasting event, raising funds for the Fernwood NRG. Featuring local eateries and chefs, beer and wine, live music and a silent auction June 24, 5 30pm 8pm in Fernwood Square $50 per person Due to access to alcohol, this is a19 years + only event (www fern woodnrg ca)

ONGOING THROUGHOUT THE SPRING AND SUMMER MONTHS:

VICTORIA DOWNTOWN PUBLIC MARKET SOCIETY’S SUMMER MARKETS

The VDPMS’ Summer Markets will be held weekly, every Wednesday from 12pm 5pm in Market Square Familiar artisan vendors will be there offering the best produce and value added food Vancouver Island has to offer, and a growing number of farmers will be selling plant starts and produce as the season progresses For a full list of vendors, visit their website. (www.victoriapublicmarket.com)

RICHMOND SUMMER NIGHT MARKET

This Asian style summer event is back starting May 11, 2012 The only one of its kind in North America, the Summer Night Market is as authentic as the original Night Mar kets throughout Asia. Barbeque beef skewers, Cantonese dumplings, deep fried cheese cake, Japanese octopus rolls or hurricane potatoes are just some of the foods on offer (www summernightmarket com)

STEVESTON FARMERS AND ARTISANS MARKET

Located at the corner of Third Avenue and Moncton Street in Steveston. The 2012 Steveston Farmers and Artisans Summer Market will open Sunday, May 20 and oper ate bi weekly until September 30 Market Dates: May 20, June 3, 17; July 15, 29; Aug 5, 19; Sept 2, 16, 30 (www sfam ca)

MARKET DINNER EVENINGS AT EDIBLE CANADA

Edible Canada on Granville Island has invited chefs from across the country to par ticipate in their market dinner series National celebrities (including Anna Olson, Lynn Crawford, Connie DeSousa, Andrea Nicholson), and local talent (including Vikram Each chef will prepare a gourmet, seasonal feast in the custom designed private demon stration dining room at Edible Canada at the Market (www ediblecanada com)

JOY ROAD CATERING SUNDAY AL FRESCO VINEYARD DINNERS

This summer's Sunday Al Fresco Vineyard Dinners will be hosted on the grounds of the God's Mountain Estate B&B just South of Penticton This unparalleled Okanagan din ing experience welcomes local winemakers, beginning June 28th with Joie Farm and running until September 6th (www joyroadcatering com)

Looking for great views & mouthwatering bbq? We’ve got you covered. BBQ season is just around the corner. Join us on Masters Terrace and take in the sights, sounds and tastes of Bear Mountain.

BLOCK PARTY BBQ’S WILL BE BACK THIS SUMMER  STAY TUNED ON FACEBOOK.

You Want Fries With That?

For the author, the U.S. first lady and a goodly portion of the world’s population, the answer is a resounding “yes!”

Michelle Obama confesses to the addiction Movie actress Cameron Diaz ranks the French fry alongside caviar. In the film Sling Blade, Billy Bob Thornton endeared his character to audiences with “I like them French fried potaters ” In A Fish Called Wanda, Kevin Kline lauded the chip as “the English contribution to world cuisine.”

The single most cherished dish in western culture? I nominate the frite, its alternate guises the chip, the fry, even the cretinous freedom fry. That incomparable conflu ence of potato, hot oil and salt floats through childhood memories, haunts our palates until we ourselves are ready to haunt, and sustains the food chain from mcfood to the finest bistros in France

(The French have even made a short comic film about the frites obsession. It’s titled Frites, naturally, and can be viewed online at http://www dailymotion com/video/xi icno frites fun.)

We know about the potato: historically, it was poor man’s caviar, poor man’s truffles, poor man’s everything. But the French fry was a relative latecomer. Antoine Parmentier, Napoleon Bonaparte’s minister of health, whose great achievement was convincing the French that potatoes didn’t cause leprosy, didn’t invent the frite, after all Current thinking places its birth almost a century later, in the aftermath of the French Revolution.

The birth of the British chip is similarly mysterious, but chips were sold in the town of Oldham (which also lays claim to England’s first fish and chip shop) in 1860. The “French fry” first appeared in a U S cookbook prior to the American Civil War

Theories can go a little mad The curator of the Frietmuseum in Brugge, the world’s only museum dedicated to the fried potato, insists the French fry was the creation of the 16th century saint Teresa of Ávila, whose pickled finger, sitting in a jar in the Ávila Cathedral, sent me into fits of youthful mirth on my first visit to Spain in 1967

But it’s true that no one cherishes the fried potato more than the Belgians, who regard it as a critical component of national character Belgians swarm streetside friteries to get their fix, usually accompanied with a large dollop of mayo or garlicky aioli Lately, the passion has gone international with Belgian friteries turning up from Turkey to Thailand

Connoisseurs rush to New York City’s East Village to eat at Pommes Frites, which proffers Belgian fries with 30 different accompaniments, the more fanciful among them Vietnamese pineapple and smoked eggplant mayos

I love the frite so much I once misread a Parisian Bonnes Fêtes sign as “Pommes Frites ” I’ve never eaten a great frite in Paris, and maybe that has something to do with the McCain’s boxes overflowing the trash bins of fashionable Parisian restau rants. McCain’s is the world leader in the manufacture of frozen fries. Every so often I try one hoping to find a hint of potato flavour or a consistency better than congealed sawdust, and come away snarling.

The best French fry I’ve ever eaten was in a small town in Bariloche, the Argentine Banff, in an unpretentious restaurant, a Peruvian yellow potato fried, probably, in lard (a few orders fried in lard in the course of the year won’t ruin the health)

The pursuit of the perfect fry can seem like an impossible dream. The frozen potato rules, and even when they’re not, there’s the question of what potato, traditional practice being the cheapest money can buy. Making a great French fry is not a simple prospect

My Victoria fave by far is Pig BBQ Joint, which for a modest $3.50, ser ves up a portion of fries fat, crispy skinned fries roaring with honest potato flavour generous enough to choke a lumberjack. Pig sells 75,000 pounds of fries a year. What does proprietor Jeff Hetherington do so right?

He uses Kennebec potatoes, switching to B.C. whites later in the season when the for mer sweetens the more sugar, the less crisp the potato He maintains a large fryer exclusively for blanching. He doesn’t overload. He gives his potatoes a few hours in the cooler before the second fry He seasons with kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper.

“In most places, they rush it,” he says, “but with fries, it’s about getting it right every step of the way. One step poorly done and they’re gone tasteless, mushy, soggy. At Pig, my guys come in early just for prep You won’t see them prepping while they’re serving. Above all, it’s a labour of love. I love fries, just love ’em.”

epicure at large by Jeremy Ferguson

by Julie Pegg

Bittersweet Greens

Our coach speeds past country fields and lumbers by vacant city lots, back gardens and front yards spaces one would expect to be lying in dismal February grey. Instead they are carpeted in bright green, specked with sunny bits of yellow A closer look reveals a mass of leafy plants, tipped with small broccoli like florets Some are just breaking flower, hence the yellow. I pluck a leaf. It is tart, peppery and lightly saccharine (A touch of frost sweetens slightly winter vegetables )

I am touring Italy’s Umbria and Campania on a wine tourism conference trip Neither I, nor my fellow conference compatriots, can figure out what the green is. The Italians, even those who speak English, tell us it is “friarelli,” which they offer with a shrug that implies “of course ” A friend and ex pat who lives in Naples enlightens me while hand ing over a mere euro to a market vendor for three enormous bouquets of the stuff We know friarelli as broccoli raab or rapini, she tells me “It grows here most of the year The locals love it and live on it.”

Rapine is not broccoli but related to the turnip It is also not to be confused with broccolini, which, according to my Food Lover’s Companion, is a “trademarked name” for a broccoli/Chinese kale hybrid.

During our trip, the green appears in delicious dish after delicious dish chucked into vegetable and white bean soup, or tossed with toasted wheat orecchiette with chickpeas (marvellous) and other pasta dishes. In Naples, it is scattered, instead of summer’s basil, atop margherita pizza, layered with crushed tomatoes slicked with olive oil and slices of buffala mozzarella Sautéed simply with olive oil, generous garlic, chili flakes and/or anchovies, the green is served room temperature on bruschetta, with rosemary rubbed porchetta or plump sausages Bitter plays off sweet when friarielli, slow cooked in broth, partners with guanciale (pig’s jowl) braised in red wine until the meat is shredding tender, the wine reduced to near syrup

This Italian touchstone has not garnered the popularity in North America that chard and kale have. Save for the southern U.S. penchant for collard greens, North Americans view it, along with escarole, beet, turnip or dandelion greens, as unpleasantly bitter

winter green wherever she goes.

We are missing out

Back in Vancouver, I go looking for friarelli. I come home with a sturdy bunch of dark green leaved rapini from Commercial Drive’s Santa Barbara Market I also happen on organic rapini in Whole Foods Thinner stalked, bright green and flecked with tiny yellow blooms, it’s a dead ringer for the Italian plant.

With on line help, I begin to experiment A sprinkle of coarse sea salt tempers the bitterness; so does blanching the greens before sautéing I find that a slow braise really tames the vegetable but wonder whether it destroys the same powerhouse nutrients that it shares with kale My favourite new recipe, using this versatile and nutrient rich green (vitamin C, folic acid, beta carotene and lutein among others), follows

Pasta and Chickpeas with Rapini

Julie Pegg travels to Umbria and encounters a plentiful, nutritious and delicious EXP XP X ERI ER R ENC ENNCE T ET E HE EXC C E ITI TI NG COM OM M C CO BIN BINATI AT T ONS ON N WE E AR R A E CRE CREATI ATI T NG G FOR OR YO YOU A UAAT A T TAURA URRA A U

Trim and chop one large bunch of rapine and steam one minute over a pot of boiling water. Lift steamer from pot and press the rapini to remove liquid. Set aside. Add more water to pot Add salt Bring to boil Add a cup or so of whole wheat pasta Cook until al dente (about 10 minutes ) Drain Set aside

While pasta is cooking, pour a glug of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat Add a tin of chickpeas, drained (or 1 cup dried chickpeas soaked overnight, cooked and drained). Add a pinch of salt. Saute until chickpeas start to turn golden, about 5 minutes Add 3 cloves finely minced garlic, a few chili flakes and a couple of chopped anchovies (optional) Saute about two minutes (Do not let garlic burn ) Turn up heat and deglaze with ½ cup of either red or white wine. Add ¾ cup chicken or vegetable broth Simmer until liquid is nearly reduced

The Marina’s Matt Rissling

grilled rare albacore tuna with wheat berries, castelvetrano olives, salted pepita crisp, macerated shallot and parsley salad

With his trimmed beard and erect posture, the Marina Restaurant’s executive chef Matt Rissling projects a young sea captain’s calm confidence Since taking over as executive chef at the 160 seat Oak Bay landmark in 2009, Rissling has built a kitchen staff capable of producing consistent, quality meals at the beautiful, sprawling, seaside room

“It’s a wonderfully talented and committed kitchen crew,” Rissling enthused as we visit in his restaurant’s sushi bar “From youngsters to our double Red Seal pastry chef, it’s a great team. Most of the staff of 22 are long term employees, five to 10 year veterans at the Marina who don’t even need to talk while turning out 80 plates an hour ”

As we visited, Rissling was mentally preparing for 1,000 guests at a daunting, two day Easter brunch and dinner offering

A self described “Gordon Head kid,” Rissling was inspired by his mother and aunts’ “unfussy cooking styles” and seminal television chefs like Julia Child, Graham Kerr and James Barber. He started working in local commercial kitchens as a teenager and became a line cook at Chandler’s and Milestones, where he was “drilled in systems, standards, efficiency, organization and consistency. It was great training,” Rissling explained, “but my next job at the Marriott Inner Harbour was the real eye opener ”

At the Marriott’s Fire and Water, executive chef David Roger and chefs Andrew Dickinson and Jeff Keenliside taught Rissling what it takes to produce much higher end, more intricate cooking He followed Keenliside to the Marina a year later and served as his sous chef

“Jeff taught me to build relationships with the people you buy from. I’ve learned to buy great stuff and don’t touch it too much. It’s important to show respect for the products and the people who produce it ”

“Today, I’m excited about the prospect of working with some black cod that came in from Finest At Sea, some nice 8 10 pounders, and I’ll use the frames [the heads, tails and bones for stock] Satellite, some day boat guys out of Sidney, deliver live sole and flounder, and I get oysters direct from up Island oyster farmer Holly Wood I’ve got a crab guy and a mushroom guy and a guy who trucks in large quantities of fruit and vegetables from the Okanagan. Local sources are the best and coincidentally the most sustainable products.”

A former member of the Vic West Food Security Collective who helped establish the edible organic garden at Banfield Park, Rissling now gardens his Saanich townhouse’s grounds in his spare time

“My garlic is six inches tall already! It’s a sixth generation crop from an original garlic bulb We’ve got a nine year old and a ten year old, so we grow strawberries, tomatoes, peas, carrots and radishes. All my kale and chard is already gone. The kids eat it like candy.”

The Victoria native loves the challenge of this 160 seat landmark room.

chef profile by Joseph Blake

R e b e c c a W e l l m a n

good for you — by Pam Durkin

Going with the Grain

These four nutritious foods have all the health benefits of whole grains without the gluten.

Nutritional research provides irrefutable evidence regarding the health benefits of whole grains. But if you’re avoiding gluten the protein found in wheat, rye, barley, spelt, kamut and triticale you may be finding it difficult to incorporate “whole grain goodness” into your diet Enjoying the following nutrient dense, gluten free grains on a regular basis can easily surmount that difficulty They’ll deliver great taste and unsurpassed nutrition whether you’re eating gluten free or not.

Millet You may know millet as the tiny yellow grain found in birdseed But it’s certainly not “just for the birds ” Rich in B vitamins, calcium, magnesium, potassium and zinc, millet also has the highest iron content of any cereal grain In addition, it’s a good source of disease fighting carotenoids. Millet’s sweet, mild flavour is suitable in both sweet and savoury dishes Try millet as “porridge” with dried fruit and nuts or in pilafs, stews, casseroles or puddings A great site to visit for millet recipes is www latartinegourmand com Beatrice Peltre’s Globe Zucchini Stuffed with Millet and Vegetables is positively scrumptious. Another exemplary example of millet’s gourmet worthy status the millet fritters at Vancouver’s Bluewater Café.

Quinoa Technically it’s not a grain at all; it’s a member of the goosefoot family like its botanical cousin spinach Pronounced keen wah, this pseudo grain is renowned for its impressive nutritional profile and intriguing taste and texture. High in B vitamins, vitamin E, iron, calcium, magnesium, phosphorous and potassium, it is also a good source of protein, unlike most grains When cooked, quinoa has a texture that is oddly creamy and crunchy at the same time similar perhaps to “al dente” pasta Quinoa’s delicate nutty flavour makes it an appealing replacement for rice in most dishes, be they entrées or desserts And I have made mar vellous fruit crumbles, cookies and cereals with quinoa “flakes” a relatively new supermarket item But my favourite quinoa creation is Bubby’s Kitchen’s undeniably delicious Chocolate Quinoa Sand wiches a decadent dark chocolate whoopie cake miraculously made with whole grain quinoa.

Amaranth A relative of the common pigweed, amaranth was a staple in the diets of the Mayans and Incas for thousands of years The plant is not a grain at all, it’s an annual herb, but it produces seeds that fall under the “pseudo grain” category in the culinary world. Though tiny in size, the seeds pack a nutritional punch unrivalled among cereal grains Amaranth is teeming with protein, fibre, B vitamins, iron, calcium, magnesium and potassium And unlike other grains, it’s also a rich source of essential fatty acids, including oleic acid, the heart healthy EFA normally associated with olive oil.

Thankfully, amaranth’s profile also includes a delicious malty flavour that lends itself to multiple uses in the kitchen The seeds are normally simmered in liquid like other grains, but they can also be “popped” like popcorn In Mexico, the popped seeds are mixed with molasses to make a crunchy snack called alegrias I make a similar energizing nibble by mixing popped amaranth with honey, dried fruit, nuts and pumpkin seeds

Buckwheat Despite its misleading name, buckwheat contains no wheat and is actually a fruit seed related to rhubarb. Commonly ground into flour for use in pancakes and crêpes, whole buckwheat is sold either unroasted or roasted the latter most often referred to as “kasha ” Unroasted buckwheat has a soft, subtle flavour while roasted buckwheat has more of a robust, nutty taste often used in hearty, Eastern European dishes. Like the other “pseudo grains” listed, buckwheat is a rich source of vitamins, minerals and fibre and is particularly abundant in cancer thwarting flavanoids like quercetin and rutin Simmered in apple juice, with raisins and ginger, buckwheat makes a nutritious porridge, but it can also bring a unique taste to cabbage rolls, soups, stews or salads For the ultimate buckwheat experience, I recommend starting your day with Café Bliss’s Apple Cinnamon Sprouted Buckwheat Granola.

Caulif lower Creations

I have often contemplated hosting a potluck dinner with a monochromatic colour theme For a purple motif, guests could riff on dishes containing purple cauliflower, potatoes, carrots, cabbage, peppers, asparagus, grapes, plums and blueberries. An all white wedding supper featuring white cauliflower, halibut, white truffles, enoki and white asparagus, with mangosteen pavlova for dessert would be très chic At the ceremony, the groom would sport a miniature cauliflower boutonniere and the bride would walk down the aisle carr ying an elegant bouquet nestled in its own ornate veined greenery: a head of raw cream coloured cauliflower, trailing the faint scent of smelly socks

If you love cauliflower as much as I do, join me as I take the concept a step further and fantasize an all cauliflower dinner. It would start with cauliflower pear hazelnut salad and ensalada de coliflor (cooked cauliflower drizzled with avocado, lemon juice and ground almond sauce) The soup would have to be dreamy creamy cauliflower soup, made with crumbled Stilton cheese, heavy cream, leeks, celery, potatoes, onions, garlic and dry sherry, with generous dollops of sour cream in each bowl For the main course: lamb and cauliflower tajine made with chilies, garlic and saffron Side dishes would include aloo gobi (spicy potatoes and cauliflower); cauliflower soufflé; roasted cauliflower dr y rubbed with crushed fennel seeds, dried chilies, peppercorns and coriander; high rise savoury cauliflower cake (with herbs, spices and Parmesan cheese, baked in a springform pan) and chou fleur du Barry, a creamy cauliflower/potato dish with oodles of ladles of beurre meunière, from a recipe created for the 18th century French gourmand, Madame du Barr y, chief mistress to King Louis XV For dessert: triple layer cauliflower, ricotta and raspberry mini cheesecakes with an almond crust, or another sweet created by competitors in the cauliflower challenge Here is a fascinating factoid about cauliflower and its superfood cabbage family kin: they were all derived from colewort, an ancient, loose leafed wild cabbage that still grows wild in coastal Europe. Colewort buds became Brussels sprouts, its flowers became broccoli and cauliflower, its leaves became kale and collard greens, its stem was transformed into kohlrabi and its root turned into the turnip Cauliflower’s pretty little head is composed of immature, unopened flower buds called “curds ” When the florets begin growing, farmers wrap each head of white cauliflower in its own leaves and secure the foliage with rubber bands or twine to shade it from the sun. This “blanching” technique preser ves the whiteness of the curds. The head swells and sweetens in the cocoon of its leaves until it is harvested. Self blanching cauliflower varieties have leaves that fold over the heads without assistance Orange and purple cauliflowers do not require this parasol approach

A list of local farms that sell cauliflower can be accessed at islandfarmfresh com/ products/Cauliflower To grow your own, start seedlings indoors until mid June and transplant them to the vegetable patch in six weeks Cauliflower can be harvested two months after transplanting Be sure to try the colourful cauliflowers that are available. Purple varieties turn green when cooked, and orange ones, like “Cheddar Cheese,” retain their colour. Italian cauli fiori varieties include purple, brown and yellow cultivars and Romanesca cauliflowers with complex, coral like lime green heads Broccoflower, a broccoli/ cauliflower cross, has a chartreuse head and tastes like both its ancestors Imagine a cauliflower crudité platter with multicoloured florets and multicoloured dips Now that’s using your pretty little head!

Thai Cauliflower and Asparagus Stir-fr y

Tamara Bailey, chef/owner of Café Ceylon, an Ayur vedic restaurant in Victoria, created this delicious vegetarian dish, which can be ser ved with rice or noodles.

2 Tbsp peanut oil or ghee

½ red onion, thinly sliced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 medium sized cauliflower, broken into bite size pieces

1 lb asparagus cut into 1 inch pieces

½ red bell pepper, julienne

1 fresh red chili pepper, thinly sliced Sea salt to taste

½ tsp turmeric ¼ tsp black pepper

Heat oil (or ghee) in a wok over medium high heat Add onion and garlic and sauté until tender Add cauliflower, mix well and cook until just tender Add asparagus and stir fr y until tender Add red bell pepper, sliced chili, salt, turmeric and pepper Combine and cook 10 minutes.

Eric Whitehead of Untamed Feast watches the forest fire season closely and quietly, planning his next move. A few months later he disappears deep into coastal BC forests and emerges with baskets of fire morels we use in our creations.

Wilderness locations and hard hiking. Just one of the stories that make up our plates each day.

Tof ino’s Storm Surge

Pictured far left: Michael Farrow at the Tofino Coffee Co. roaster.

Above: Br yan O'Malley, co-owner of the Tofino Brewing Co, with growlers.

Right: Chef Tim May with pizza paddle at Red Can Gourmet

Tofino bound travelers have quadr uple cause for celebration this summer. And “Made in Tofino” has never had more clout

The past year has seen the openings of four new businesses from local entrepreneurs, all with the common mission of pleasuring the palate

So you might find yourself sipping a superlative cappuccino for two bucks a cup and going back for seconds, or quaffing a growler of suds with the peculiar label of Hoppin’ Cretin, or picnicking on a fastidious pizza of unprecedented quality, or tucking into short rib infused with the sensations of Vietnamese pho

All four raise the bar for the Tofino experience

Three of the four operate on the unromantically named Industrial Way. Red Can Gourmet is chef Tim May’s burgeoning takeaway and catering company May, who spent 13 years at the exclusive Clayoquot Wilderness Resort (and catered that celebrity wedding), plunged into a giant hole in the market and now spends his day not only turning out sandwiches, salads and pizzas to star ving locals, but catering weddings, delivering breakfasts to resorts without restaurants and provisioning outfitters with lunches for fishers and whale watchers For fishers without facilities, he offers a catch and cook program, transforming the catch to anything from sashimi to barbecue

May posts his daily menus online. His pizzas he imports the flour from Italy are Friday night balm for many a local. His lineup may include the likes of cumin scented seafood chowder with fresh thyme and braised barbecue beef brisket sandwich, all danc ing to the mantra of fresh, simple and rocking with flavour www redcangourmet com

Bearish Tofino photographer Michael Farrow of the Tofino Coffee Co. is always happy to discuss his love for the “ceremony of coffee.” Flanked by his heavy duty Diedrich roaster, fine tuned grinders and fire engine red Sibilla espresso machine, he is Tofino’s coffee culture

Farrow’s coffee is organic, powerful, rich on the palate, a meld of Guatemalan, Brazilian and Indonesian beans. Tofino establishments, including SoBo, Shelter and the Tin Wis Resort, have been swift to adopt it It’s available from the big guy himself from

8 a.m. to noon every day at his location behind Red Can Gourmet. Farrow dispenses cappuccino at two bucks a cup, a bargain; half pound bags of beans sell for $8

Up the way, the upstart Tofino Brewing Co is the work of Br yan O’Malley, Chris Neufeld and Dave McConnell, three dedicated suds lovers who decided, “Why not?”

Not quite ready for a bottling line, the microbrewery that could dispenses four labels in reusable, refillable 64 oz growlers, including its toasty blond Tuff Session Ale and lusty Hoppin’ Cretin (inspired by a Ramones song) IPA Even more intriguing is its Dawn Patrol Espresso Coffee Porter, a dark, seductive brew with distinct coffee (from the Tofino Coffee Co ) underpinnings

It’s environmentally correct: total hydroelectric power translates as no carbon emissions Water used in the heating exchange process is recovered and reused Used grain is recycled as livestock feed for a Port Alberni farm And the leftover slurry of hops is given to local farmers as fertilizer

With their beers already flying across counters from SoBo and Weigh West to the Wickanninish Inn and sweeping the peninsula to Ucluelet’s Cyn at Night and Blackrock Resort, the wee brewer y looks unstoppable The boys are confident: souvenir kegs, T shirts and hoodies are already for sale Coordinates: www tofinobrewingco com

Chef Vincent Fraissange arrived in Tofino by way of Toronto and Bora Bora, transforming the former Raincoast Cafe into the Spotted Bear Bistro, a 30 seat, high ceilinged boite embracing the local and organic with dedication, affordability and originality

A recent $60 tasting menu included fluffy mushroom and risotto croquettes boosted with house made truffle aioli; pan fried salmon atop warm potato salad with smoked tuna, a stellar ensemble; a duo of short rib exotically braised in Vietnamese pho spices star anise and ginger and Southeast Asian inspired pork and shrimp patty; and to finish, an especially rich and velvety chocolate pot de crème sprinkled with Malden salt Ooh la la. Coordinates: www.spottedbearbistro.com. By Jeremy Ferguson

Four new—and stellar— enterprises add to Tof ino’s growing reputation as a food destination

victoria

Smoken Bones

Cookshack |

This column could be more aptly titled Second Look since Smoken Bones has relaunched itself in a 200 capacity downtown restaurant following its first incarnation as a small but vastly popular Langford eater y Now situated in the gentrified Hudson building on Douglas Street, the new Smoken Bones Cookshack held its grand opening in February and is now open for finger licking southern style lunch and dinner daily

The new space is surprisingly large, with concrete floors, high ceilings and wall to wall windows just above street level Constructed almost entirely by owner Ken Hueston, chef John Brooks and several of their friends, the new Smoken Bones is truly a labour of love, right down to the hand upholstered tabletops

As for atmosphere, imagine a non corporate, non kitschy, locally owned version of the cookhouse style chain (often seen near movie theatres) they hate being likened to. Oh, and kick the menu up about 10 notches in the excitement department and add a soul food twist. As much as Brooks may loathe the comparison, for those of us secretly fond of the unnamed cookhouse style chain restaurant, we now have no need to ever go back

The food lineup has changed somewhat from Smoken Bones’ previous location to reflect the new situation Previews from Chef Brook’s current menu include charbroiled pork sausage, fried fish with Bayou swamp sauce, fried pickles, hushpuppies, clam and bacon sandwich, and of course ribs with sides of mac ’n’ cheese, candied carrots, Kennebec fries or butter fried cabbage Top off the meal with a flourless mud cake, banana pudding with bourbon whip, or bacon ice cream

If those samples seem heavy on the calories, it’s probably true nothing that a few hundred laps around the heritage building won’t fix. However, there are also several fresh, lighter salads and three soups to balance out the menu’s richer features or sat isfy the resident dieter in your group. As one would expect from an ex Camille’s chef, everything is made in house, right down to the bacon and sausages everything that is except the ketchup, of which Brooks says breathlessly, “I’ll get around to it when I have time!”

By Deanna Ladret

The Rooftop Surfclub at The Strathcona Hotel Douglas at Courtney strathconahotel.com

Eating Well for Less

by Elizabeth Smyth

The Black Hat by Bistro 28, 1005 Langley St at Broughton, www.theblackcat.ca, 250.381.2428

The sleek and sophisticated venue of The Black Hat is now open for decadent and delicious lunches, some of which slide nicely into the parameters of a $13 and under lunch budget Many of these lunches share a witticism: a creative and sometimes luxurious food hides behind the wink of a prosaic name Take the B L T for example The “B” doesn’t stand for bacon; it stands for “braised pork belly ” This rich cut of meat is essentially candied in terms of texture; it is braised then deep fried, creating a seared bacon like exterior around the rich, soft, creamy meat interior It is then tossed in star anise, black pepper, and salt This concoction is then paired with smoked tomato jam and the light zing of arugula for the sexiest BLT I’ve ever had The funni est name on the menu, especially given the subtle elegance of the surroundings, is the starkly worded “Hot Dog.” Needless to say, it is a far cry from the fare at summer camp. This one is made from a house made puree of chicken and pork It is twice as long as the conventional ones, and is served in a pretzel bun that is a knockout soft bread with a golden brown exterior brushed with salt This “hotdog” comes beautifully plated, angled on an pristine oblong dish, flanked by a pickled salad of celeriac, Chinese cabbage, red onion, and celery, and on the other side, uniformly crisp thin fries infused with the flavour of truffles Both the above dishes cost $13 “New Mexican Chili” for $11 for a large bowl also contained a surprise it is thickened with pumpkin seeds. This chili is lovingly prepared with meat so tender it has softened and shredded. The pinto beans in it have retained a toothsome bite. The bread that comes with it is grilled, which some people like, but I find it imparts a slightly burned taste Overall, going to the Black Hat for lunch is a chance to enjoy sexy food in a hot new restaurant ting us practice our French

La Taquisa, 120 176 Wilson St near Save On Foods, www.lataquisa.com, 250.590.6588

La Taquisa is best known as a Mexican cart in Cook St Village; I, however, went to their newer Westside Village location across the Bay Street. While most people take their food out, it is perfectly comfortable for a quick sit down meal, with an attractive wood bar along a large plate glass window Granted, the view is of a parking lot, but that’s outside their control! The food was definitely all affordable The reality I’ve experienced when travelling in Mexico is that some food is tasty and some food is

La Taquisa left: Trio of tacos (from left to right): Chicken Mole, Veggie rajas with corn and Beef with salsa verde. right: Scott Demner (pictured rolling tor tillas)

simple to the point of bland I experienced this at La Taquisa too Following are the tasty dishes I enjoyed there. The tortilla soup is a thick, rich mix of tomatoes, onion, garlic, and chicken stock seasoned with oregano The trick is to reach down with your spoon and scoop up the layer of tortilla on the bottom to get it mixed in This is a favourite with the children of their clientele as well, and is priced at $6 for 16 ounces and $4 for 12 ounces. Talking about children, I am extremely grateful for their que sadilla priced at $2 It’s just a corn tortilla and mozzarella, nothing more, but that hits the mark for some toddlers Also worth targeting is the chicken mole, whether it’s in a taco or burrito Mole recipes vary wildly from region to region; this one includes chocolate, bread, chicken stock, cinnamon and cloves, creating a rich, exotic flavour. The corn tortillas are rolled out and grilled fresh to order, and are soft and sweet. The tacos have a generous amount of filling, and are $2 50 each, or five for $10, and the large burrito is $8 To my enormous surprise, I liked the quesadilla called “The Gringa ” The name turned me off, clearly because of my innate snobbery, but it had the appeal of a well executed grilled cheese sandwich with a twist. Here cheese, salsa, and a filling of choice mine was chicken are packed between two tortillas and fried, and it was very tasty At $4, one works well for a snack, and two for a meal

Jade Fountain, 3366 Douglas St north of Ardesier St, www.jadefountain.ca, 250.383.8718

Dim sum at Jade Fountain Restaurant, underneath the Red Lion Inn, is a bustling, lively affair, with lots of families enjoying this communal eating experience For the uninitiated, dim sum is basically a Cantonese brunch with small plates, like hors d’oeuvres, being served, in this case in carts, and at other places off a menu Be pre pared for lots of protein The jewel in the crown for me was the shrimp and scallop ball It looked like a little tiny canoe, with a translucent rice flour wrapper enrobing a pink shrimp ball topped with a slice of scallop, all garnished with a smattering of shrimp roe. Also in the category of delicate was an intriguing golden tofu braised in fish broth and served over Chinese cabbage The tofu cubes were infused with the fish flavour, and were something I haven’t seen before in my dim sum travels in various Canadian cities The shrimp and chive dumplings are easily identified by the glisten ing green shining through the translucent rice casing the generous hand with the chives makes these very refreshing Dim sum can be more known for its richer offer ings The Shanghai ginger pork dumplings are identifiable by their flat base twisting up into a swirl These have a palate cleansing blast of ginger I love assertive season ing. Taro cakes are always a personal favourite, even if they do look a bit like muddy little footballs These have a seemingly impossible structure of a mashed taro exterior,

The Black Hat left: The "Hot Dog" with kimchi and truffled fries.

right: Brian Bekkema (foreground), John Paul Turrinos (background)

stuffed with diced pork, shrimp, and mushrooms, all deep fried to a ligh One dish I missed because it came around as I was packing up to leave plate of steamed gai lan the next time I would pester the servers fo broccoli early on, because I like the balance of a vegetable dish with d I did notice that I wasn’t offered a dish that Caucasians might be pe scary, in this case the tripe. All right, all right, dammit, I don’t in fact li clearly not the world’s coolest food writer, but I still want to be offered it. And I missed having squid that wasn’t deep fried My childhood memories of weekly dim sum trips with my parents included tender baby squid in black bean or ginger sauce, my brother and I dangling the tentacles from our lips in front of our squeamish grandmother, squealing “help me, help me” in squid accent, my parents shocking the servers by knowing how to say “squid” in Cantonese a necessary survival skill in 1980s Ottawa where we would be the only non Chinese family in the restaurant, and we’d be swatting off the lame abbreviated English only menus being thrust at us So stir fried squid. I am haunted by the thought that there might have been some, and I just was n’t assertive enough about demanding that every lid of every bamboo steamer get opened Reason to go back It’s a little hard to say the cost per person as it’s a shared meal and depends on gluttony levels, but you can most certainly feel full for $12 to $15

Jade Fountain - Chive and Shrimp dumpling, Scallop dumpling, Shrimp dumpling, Ginger pork dumpling

Tea Artistry

Silk Road Teas are created and blended in Victoria. Tea can be rich and pungent or delicate and subtle. The Silk Road art of tea blending ensures that the character of the plant retains its essential harmony and is enhanced by the ingredients with which it is paired. Select botanicals from around the world, as well as the West Coast, are carefully cured and prepared to yield a superb tea experience. www.silkroadtea.com

top shelf by Sylvia Weinstock

Feys+Hobbs Canteen

David Feys’s catered luxury comes to Oak Bay Avenue.

It’s always exciting when a new foodie hangout opens in my Oak Bay ’hood, especially one as inviting as Feys+Hobbs Canteen

David Feys’s company, Feys+Hobbs Catered Arts, has built a top notch reputation for catering in Victoria for 16 years. Since Feys opened Canteen in late February, food lovers have flocked into the spacious shop to enjoy sweet and savoury goodies from the fresh case, F+H frozen entrées (try the seafood cannelloni) and unique F+H bottled and jarred delicacies (you have to taste their bacon jam!) Seats at the large round communal table and the counter facing the Avenue are filled with people spooning up scrumptious soups (e.g., carrot coconut, heirloom tomato or sunchoke and cauliflower), tucking into the colourful five veggie “Power Salad” with F+H’s killer Apple Dried Cranberry Toasted Rose mary Dressing, and getting their fix of addictive Caramel Crack Squares Canteen also sells an array of interesting products from other fine food creators, including Noble Hand crafted Maple Vinegar, Secret Aardvark Habanero Hot Sauce and Vancouver’s Butter Bak ery treats

The contents of the fresh case, which Feys posts daily on Facebook, include ever chang ing temptations such as Moroccan Braised Veal Cheeks, butter chicken, Horseradish and Lime Crusted Albacore Tuna Roasts (yum), crab cakes (gluten free), asparagus quiche and osso buco. I was delighted when Feys revealed that Gryfe’s bagels (shipped par baked and frozen from Toronto where they have been a fave since 1957) will be baked at Canteen every weekend As transplanted Torontonians know, Gryfe’s are so fab fresh from the oven they don’t need embellishments Real bagels In Oak Bay Oh my

“The reaction has been phenomenal. We really feel welcomed into the neighbourhood,” says the enthusiastic Feys “Customers can find our best products, the hottest new food products and beloved old standbys It’s a place to enjoy good food prepared with integrity We’ll also have food demos and tastings to round out the experience ”

“There are only so many occasions each year where customers give a large catered party. This venue allows everyone to enjoy our food on a regular basis,” Feys explains “Canteen is all about gourmet, high quality, healthful eating every day ”

Feys+Hobbs Canteen is open seven days a week at 2249 Oak Bay Ave Monday to Sat urday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Sunday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. For more info, call 250 590 5761 or go to feysandhobbs.com.

1624 Government St. Victoria Chinatown

R e b e c c a W e l l m a n

Bitter Tasting Room | 16 West Hastings St. | 604.558.4658 | www.bittertastingroom.com

The neighbourhood used to be part of that stretch of East Hastings Street that one would drive through quickly, with averted eyes These days, like many other parts of the Downtown Eastside, it is home to a burgeoning urban and upscale crowd, with the likes of the London Pub and Save On Meats offering casual, yet trendy fare and tipples

A few doors away from the former lies Bitter, Sean Heather’s latest addition to the expanding empire that includes The Irish Heather, Shebeen, Salt, Judas Goat, Every thing Café, etc. As the name implies, it’s all about the beer here, both what’s on tap and in the bottle. Eight rotating draughts mainly span B.C. with the likes of Back Hand of God from Crannog Ales and Doughhead from Vancouver Island Brewery, with a few imports from Toronto and Quebec to round things out

As for the bottles, over 60 on the standing menu range from the $5 Moosehead from St. John, New Brunswick, to the $32 Ommegang “Three Philosophers” from New York, with some healthy additions from Belgium, Scotland, Thailand and Germany

Most interesting were the beer cocktails, an absolutely new experience for me The Bitter Chill ($9) was a memorable and herbally mix of organic lager, El Jimador reposado tequila, muddled ginger and lime, finished with some salt and pepper If beer really isn’t your thing, you can settle for a nice, tall shandy or go completely off the hops for a glass of wine or a snifter of good Rittenhouse rye

The food was where I truly had a field day. Lots of protein to soak up the hops is the order of the day. An organic Rabbit River Farm egg is scotched ($3.95), wrapped in housemade sausage and deep fried The handmade pretzels with mustard ($3 50) were nice, but the Welsh rarebit ($4 75) and sausage roll ($3 50) were hearty, happy makers, with caramelized onions on the former lending a rich, sweet note to the whole cheese on toast shtick. If you’re extra hungry, try one of the sausage plates, all handmade by master butcher Drews Driessen The Kreiner ($16 for five links) is a cheese studded wonder full of porcini mushrooms There are even a couple of mains like the cassoulet ($18) with duck confit, pork belly and Toulouse sausage It’s one of the most comforting “comfort” menus I’ve come across in a goodly while.

By Anya Levykh

Pop Goes the Dinner

Underground dining in Vancouver has become so common that its cachet of exclusivity and mystery has devolved slightly over the last couple of years But, not to worry, for in its place has quietly stepped the pop up dinner, a slightly more legal yet still intriguing event that will appeal to those seeking the unexpected, unusual and unknown. Dinners can be stand up or sit down affairs at art galleries, retail stores or cooking schools, and thanks to the communal nature of most of them you’re bound to meet at least a few new faces before the mains are cleared

As for who is behind these events, one should look for the most part to the cater ing world Kale and Nori (www kaleandnori com), a partnership between chef Jonathan Chovancek and mixologist/sommelier

Lauren Mote, has been running its “Bittered Sling” series of pop up dinners at Legacy Liquor Store in False Creek for the past year These bi weekly food and cocktail pairing competi

Kale and Nori’s Lauren Mote and Jonathan Chovancek

tions each feature a guest bartender and a theme spirit (recent dinners revolved around Hendricks gin and Flor de Cana rum) Guests are led through an interac tive tasting by the guest bartender, and then dinner, during which a different cocktail is paired with each course.

“The dinner is designed to amplify the character of the gin,” states Mote, “and, like all our menus, is completely sea sonal and sustainable ” Chovancek, who was the chef for CBC’s Village on a Diet, specializes in thoughtful, locally sourced menus. The Flor de Cana dinner includes “jerked” chicken with lemon bitters and a pistachio and mint sauce, spot prawn tamale with smoky yam and pomegranate salad, and a Pemberton Meadows beef oxtail curry with blue potatoes and mint, root pickles, and taro crisps

Guests can rate the bartender’s pairing skills during the dinner, and the two top scoring bartenders from the year compete in a final event for a grand prize. And the price for all this fun? $60 includes your gratuity and taxes, and covers the interactive seminar, four cocktails, hors d’oeuvres and a three course meal

For those looking for a more alternative, slightly left of centre experience, David Gunawan’s monthly ph5 (ph5dining@gmail.com) series focuses on getting back to the roots of food, using old fashioned techniques and highlighting local producers Gunawan, who was formerly EC at West Restaurant, will soon be donning his toque again at Wildebeest on West Hastings Street “ph5 is about getting back to the source of what we eat, it’s an educational process,” explains Gunawan. “We want to bring back techniques that were used for generations, like aging birds ”

Past meals have been planned around specific themes, like the recent “Diary of a Dairy Cow ” Dishes progressed according to the age of a cow, so the meal started with milk, then went on to eight month old cow’s tongue, then striploin from a one year old cow, followed by 14 month old cow’s heart and three year old brisket. The latter was cured for three weeks, and aged in hay before being slightly charred and shaved in paper thin slices

“Everything is locally sourced, we’re working closely with the farmers, and are even raising our own pigs,” enthuses Gunawan. The locations have ranged from cafeterias not normally open at night to his business partner’s restaurant The end goal is to create a regular series of dinners that will be held at Wildebeest and feature various chefs around the city The focus of ph5 is the collaboration of not only chefs and producers, but also pottery makers, florists, artists and winemakers. “We’re really just trying to create an outlet for people to express their creativity, to experiment with their ideas ” This is obviously a labour of love for Gunawan and his cohorts, as the price for a dinner ($70 includ ing tax and gratuity for six courses plus wine pairings) is just enough to cover operating costs. The chefs cook, plate and serve the dishes, and even do the washing up afterward Upcoming dinners will include chefs like Hamid Salimian of Diva at the Met

On the more casual front, chef Owen Lightly, owner of Butter on the Endive Catering (www.butterontheendive.ca), has been running his series of pop up dinners for over a year to mostly sold out crowds The most recent event was a stand up affair at a pop up shop in Gastown called The Found and the Freed (so, yes, it was a pop up dinner at a pop up shop) Guests sampled various canapés, duck confit ravioli in porcini and pine nut broth, seared scallops with bacon wrapped salsify, and inventive cocktails that ranged from the classic Mai Tai to nouveau gin and housemade bitters creations all for the bargain price of $25 Regardless of where your palate and sense of adventure leads you, chances are once you start “popping,” it will be hard to stop

By Anya Levykh

WE LOVE PIES.

Sweet, savour y…. doesn’t matter. All good. Who can resist that gentle yielding pull from pizza crust precariously topped with goodies? And one could rhapsodize for hours about fruit pies. Pure poetr y and comfort – those tender nuggets of war m summer fruit encased in flaky dough. Add some ice cream. Heavenly. That’s what love’s all about.

Plenty o’ Pie

Recipes and food styling by JENNIFE R DANTE R • Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY

Bigger Is Better Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie

6 cups sliced rhubarb

1 pint strawberries, halved (about 4 cups)

3/4 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

¼ cup cornstarch

1 egg yolk

2 Tb coarse sugar

¼ tsp almond extract (optional)

1 orange peel, grated (optional)

Pastry dough for double crust pie

3 knobs of butter

Preheat oven to 400F

In a large bowl, toss rhubarb with strawberries, sugars, cornstarch, almond extract and orange peel Let mixture sit to macerate while you roll out the pie dough

On a flour dusted counter, roll out bottom pastry shell Line a 9 in pie plate Leave a pastry overhang on edge Roll out top pastry into a disc slightly larger than the pie plate

Stir fruit mixture to redistribute any juices, then scrape the whole shebang into the pie plate It should be heaped high and look impressive! Dot filling with a few knobs of butter Gently and carefully cover with top pastry Press pastry edges together, then fold over and crimp Place pie on a baking sheet (that will make getting it in and out of oven much easier).

Whisk egg yolk with enough water to loosen mixture, then generously brush over top. Using the tip of a knife, score pastry to make some steam vents or place a pie bird in centre. Sprinkle pastry with coarse sugar. Bake for 25 minutes, then reduce oven temperature to 350F Continue to bake until pastry is deep golden and filling starts to bubble, about 1 hour If pastry starts to darken too quickly, loosely cover with a sheet of foil

HEAP THE FRUIT HIGH WHEN COOKED. EVEN THOUGH IT’S NEITHER SEASONAL OR LOCAL

I LOVE THE ADDITION OF ORANGE IT ADDS A BOOZY HEADY FLAVOUR TO THE FRUIT DITTO THE ALMOND — IT’S THAT FLAVOUR-LAYERING THING — YOU WON’T PICK IT OUT AS AN INGREDIENT BUT IT ADDS TO THAT ROUND, FULL DELICIOUS MOUTH FEEL

DIY Pizza Bar

The idea here is to make several small pizzas Mix, match, and go wild One word of caution: less is more. Resist the urge to overload. Keep ‘em wanting more.

Grilled Zucchini, Feta & Chili Topper

Slice 3 zucchini into rounds. Place in a bowl and drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with sea salt and ground fresh pepper Grill zucchini over medium high heat, turning over occasionally, until lightly charred. Remove each piece back to bowl as done. Then toss with 2 thinly sliced red chilies, 1 cup crumbled feta (Tr y Salt Spring Island) and ¼ cup toasted pine nuts or chopped hazelnuts. Finish pizza with handfuls of fresh basil.

Caramelized Fennel + Smoked Trout Topper

Slice 3 small heads fennel into thin slivers (tip: leave core intact and shave on a mandolin). Thinly slice 2 leeks. Melt about 3 Tbsp butter in a large frying pan over medium heat, then swirl in 3 Tbsp olive oil Add fennel and leeks. Stir in 2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar and a generous pinch of sugar. Cook, stirring often, until fennel turns meltingly soft and starts to caramelize, about 1 hour Reduce heat to medium low if it starts to darken too quickly Remove from heat and crumble in a goodly amount of hot or cold smoked salmon (visit FAS for options) Finish pizza with fresh slivers of red onion and a pile of fresh mint Finish with slivers of Alpindon (from Kootenay Alpine Cheese Co.).

What To Do

Generously oil grill and preheat barbecue to medium high. Place rounds of dough on grill When it puffs and underside chars and stiffens, flip crust Working quickly, spoon a few Tbsp béchamel sauce to edges of dough, then scatter with toppings.Or, remove dough from grill. Place grill side up on a cutting board Take your time and spread with sauce, then add toppers Return to barbecue Close grill and reduce heat to medium Cook until warm and crusty. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and sprinkles of fresh herbs, thinly sliced red onion or slivers of cheese

To bake pizzas, preheat oven to 500F. Brush edges of dough with olive oil; spread 3 to 4 Tbsp béchamel sauce over pizza rounds and place on a parch ment lined baking sheet Bake until it starts to puff, 3 to 4 minutes, then throw on toppers. Bake until warmed through, about 3 minutes. Finish with oil and fresh herbs.

Note: Cooking times are variable depending on size of pizzas and type of grill. Use your judgment.

Rosemary & Black Pepper Pizza Sauce

This is a classic bechamel sauce a creamy alternative to classic tomato sauce. Velvety in texture and less acidic in taste, it's a good matc for summer veggies and smoked fish It's the kind of sauce that lets the toppings have the glory.

4 sprigs rosemary

3 peppercorns, coarsely crushed ¼ cup butter

6 Tbsp flour

Grated nutmeg, to taste

Pour milk into a saucepan Coarsely bend and crush rosemary springs, then stir into milk along with peppercorns. Heat milk, stirring often, just until it almost comes to a boil Remove from heat and let cool until barely warm Strain and discard solids

Melt butter in a medium size saucepan over medium heat. Sprinkle with flour and whisk until smooth Cook until mixture turns light golden, 2 to 3 minutes Gradually whisk in milk, about ½ cup at a time, whisking until smooth between each addition. While whisking, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and gently simmer, stirring often until “floury taste” is cooked out, 4 to 5minutes Makes about 2/12 cups

The truth

This makes more than you will probably ne ed But why go to all that trouble for a small batch? Freeze leftovers for the next time.

THE RETURN OF THE HUNT

BY SANDRA MCKENZIE

Wild game meat might be the ultimate inconvenience food. Consider the process: up well before the crack of dawn, then the hours or days spent in the field or on a mountain slope, or knee deep in frigid water at the edge of a raging stream, wait ing patiently for the elusive prey, whether fish, fowl or fur Then, once spotted, a split second chance to bring it down cleanly and quickly there are no second acts in the hunting game Follow that with the brutally unpleasant but necessary task of cleaning and gutting the animal, then hauling the carcass, which can weigh as much as several hundred pounds, out of the wilderness and back home All for the sake of a freezer full of meat. And possibly an earful of abuse from your vegan neighbour.

So why would anyone do all that, when a pound of hamburger from your local supermarket gives you change back from a five dollar bill?

“It just makes sense to forage for your food, and hunting game is the ultimate in foraging it’s the motherlode,” says Andrew Moyer, owner of Victoria’s Ottavio Italian Bakery and Delicatessen. “Meat that you’ve hunted yourself is lean and clean. There are no antibiotics, no hormones It tastes like good, healthy wilderness ”

Though hunting is arguably a sustainable and environmentally sound way to harvest meat, and a healthy option to the well documented horrors of industrial farming practices, the optics remain, well, pretty negative. PETA, for example, argues that hunt ing is unnecessary and unsporting and estimates that as much as 50 percent of all hunted

animals are wounded, and then left to die in pain and misery by uncaring hunters.

Some of the bias against hunting is undoubtedly well earned “There are a lot of sloppy hunters out there,” Moyer concedes “There’s some validity to the health authority’s ban on selling wild game In our deli, for example, we sell elk salami, but the elk is farmed, not wild.”

Moyer notes, though, that the perception of the hunter as an unthinking, uncaring thrill killer is undergoing a dramatic change as consumers become more and more involved with their food, and mindful of where it comes from and how it’s been handled. “We have a lot of friends in the food industry who are becoming interested in hunting and foraging, which is a good thing, because the hunting community is getting older ”

Hunting offers nourishment other than the edible variety, he adds Chief among those is the opportunity to learn primal skills such as patience and observation “You don’t need a lot of equipment, but you do need a lot of time, most of which is spent just watching and listening You can’t focus on anything else because you have to pay attention if you’re going to spot a grey brown animal that’s camouflaged against a grey brown backdrop ”

Just getting back in touch with the natural world is another underappreciated benefit of adopting the hunter gatherer approach to life, says Moyer “While you’re waiting for

Hunting still needs some good PR, but there’s a growing number of hunters who see it less as a sport and more as a sustainable food source.

game, you can look around you. Maybe pick some mushrooms or some wild greens for a salad, or collect some firewood, or just get some exercise. It’s like having the world’s best supermarket outside your door ”

In Vancouver, B C Parks area supervisor (Sunshine Coast) Dylan Eyers is launching EatWild, a culinary and environmental venture that aims to bring people face to face with their dinner. A dedicated hunter and forager, Eyers is as confident and meticulous chopping onions and measuring out seasonings in his east end Vancouver kitchen as he is in the field bringing down and dressing the game animals that will provide the food he loves to share with friends, family and complete strangers

Eyers’s hunter ethic seems a strange disconnect from his urban surroundings. East Vancouver is, after all, the locus of the city’s vegetarian/vegan/raw foodist culture Nevertheless, on a sunny Sunday afternoon his kitchen is buzzing with activity as he, along with friends and helpers, prepares a wild meat feast for 14 that night The menu is ambitious. Appetizers include slivers of wild goose breast, cooked to medium rare and garnished with a wild blueberr y sauce, and morels lightly fried in butter. Elk and venison roasts, hunted last autumn in the mountains of Northern B C , are the main events, with saffron risotto and smashed turnips as side dishes When I compliment him on his skills and the menu, he demurs “I don’t cook like a chef, but I do try to cook like a host”. While he may not have the finesse of a master chef, Eyers is indeed an accomplished cook The game meats are robustly flavoured, and expertly seasoned, and the sides are hearty, satisfying fare perfect for a blustery winter evening

Eyers grew up eating the wild game that his father regularly brought home, and, under his father’s keen eye, learned the necessary skills as a teenager. Hunting is his passion, and the excess meat that he harvests becomes fodder for bartering, an important part of his social and economic life “Hunting is about food,” he says “It’s how I can feed my community, and what allows me to do things like this,” indicating the dinner preparations This party is not entirely altruistic, though It’s an initial step towards establishing EatWild as a business that will teach people the basics of hunting in three day workshops held on a private ranch in the Okanagan To cover his expenses and his helpers’ time, Eyers requests a very reasonable $30 donation from each of the guests

In addition to these, Eyers also offers sausage seminars in Vancouver, in which groups of nine or so are led through the intricacies of grinding, seasoning, then stuffing wild game sausages (Disclaimer: I attended the first of these seminars, which was a hilarious good time that that also yielded about five pounds of delicious duck, elk, and bison sausages for each participant to take home)

The group that convened for dinner was a pretty typical collection of 30 something Vancouverites They included IT and media professionals, a community organizer, a real estate developer and a city police officer What was different about this dinner party, though, was that none of the guests knew anyone else, other than his or her partner They had learned about the EatWild event mostly through word of mouth, or, in one case, by stumbling across the EatWild website while looking for something else What fuelled the conversation was their shared interest in food, specifically in learning how to eat more sustainably and naturally Hunting appeared to hold no negative connotations for this crowd, though none seemed likely to jettison their urban roots in favour of a Paleolithic lifestyle, even for a weekend.

“People are beginning to pay attention to where their food comes from,” Eyers says “They’re beginning to understand why ‘local’ is good, and that there are seasons for everything, including meat I want hunting to be a part of that conversation I know there are a lot of challenging stereotypes about hunting out there, and I want to counter those stereotypes with a positive image ”

Moyer and Eyers share a philosophy of ethical harvesting that even PETA would have a hard time arguing with Says Moyer, “If you kill an animal, you have to revere the meat, take care of it, treat it responsibly, and don’t waste it.” Eyers concurs. “Hunting is, first of all, about food, and about sharing, and taking responsibility for that food.”

For information on hunting, and hunting regulations, Moyer suggests reading up on the subject (he recommends Making the Most of Your Deer by Dennis Walrod), then visiting a sporting goods store to sign up for the provincially regulated safety course (Conser vation Outdoor Recreation Education program) and picking up the study materials For more information about EatWild’s hunting workshops and sausage making seminars, visit www eatwild ca

Simply connect the dots on the Lakeshore Wine Route to discover the heritage of the Okanagan’s oldest vineyards: CedarCreek, St. Hubertus, Summerhill and Tantalus. With tastings, tours and dining, we are all only a short scenic drive from downtown Kelowna. Come spend the day with us.

Second Annual Feast! Culinar y Festival in Tofino

Rarely do tourists get the chance to experience what life is really like for the locals in the places they visit An upcoming culinary festival provides the chance to do just that on the west coast of Vancouver Island Feast! Tofino is a 16 day EAT Magazine sponsored event that celebrates the stock and trade of this fishing turned tourist towns wild salmon and spot prawns. “Feast is about celebrating the food that we have here specifically seafood,” said Shelter Restaurant chef Joel Aubie. “It’s about salmon and prawns and all we get to enjoy here on the west coast ”

Chef Vincent Fraissange of the Spotted Bear Bistro says Tofino’s chefs are keen to share their boat to table seafood access with visitors and visiting chefs. “With Feast! we are showcasing the products we have readily available in Clayoquot Sound and how we use it in our restaurants,” he said. “It’s really nice to be able to share it with our friends from the city as well and see how they showcase it ”

There are many salmon and spot prawn events planned for this year’s second an nual festival, said organizer Trish Dixon, although not quite as many as last year “What we’ve done is taken the best events and focused on those,” she said “We really got a good idea of what people, both tourist and locals, want.” By pairing down the festival to 16 days from last year’s 29, there are also fewer days with multiple events, making it easier to take advantage of all Feast! Tofino has to offer

The main events are two Saturday dockside festivals on the wharf on May 19th and May 26th On these days, the Tofino wharf is buzzing with activity amidst tents with food samples, chef demonstrations, grape stomping, live music and entertainment. The first dock festival kicks off salmon week and the second is the starting point for spot prawn week.

Many other events are planned for the intervening time, including prix fixe menus and accommodation and excursion specials at local restaurants and hotels Not only will Tofino’s best chefs be taking part in Feast! Tofino, but Vancouver’s culinary scene is well represented with the following chefs taking part: Nico Schuermans of Cham bar, Joel Wannatabe of Bao Bei, Tom Lee of Edible at the Market, Lucias Syme of La

Quercia, JC Poirier of Campagnolo, and Justin and Lea Ault of Hapa Ikazaya

From Victoria, Chef Kunal Ghose of Redfish Bluefish, and Chef Andrew Springett of the Southern Alberta Institue of Technology (formally of the Pointe Restaurant at the Wickaninnish Inn and Fetch at Black Rock Resort) will also be attending as guest chefs.

Look for this visiting culinary talent to take part in guest dinners at local eateries and other special events. For example, take in a beachside barbecue with Red Can Gourmet’s Chef Tim May and Lee of Edible at the Market at Pacific Sands Beach Resort or go motocross biking with Storm Surf Shop and Shelter Restaurant, with a stop for a picnic lunch and a barbecue at the end of the day.

Also combine activities like a trip to the Hot Springs or fly fishing with a culinary component.

All types of accommodation providers, from B&Bs to hotels are also getting in on the Feast! Tofino action Stay and play packages that are being offered include some culinary element as well

And the festival is designed to be ending just as another great Tofino event is start ing. “The whole concept for Feast! is we want it to tie into the Tofino Food and Wine Festival,” said Dixon “It’s great for people visiting and also for guest chefs to be able to experience that as well ”

Before Feast! kicks off, there is a warm up event that is designed to give a taste of the festival Sneak Peak into Feast is a throwback to 70s progressive dinners, where each of the five course will be offered at five different establishments involved in the festival. The transportation provided event is set for May 13th

All in all, it’s a great time to be here, says Kirsten Soder, general manager of Tourism Tofino: “"With great accommodation and activity specials, 'Dine About' menus, dock festivals and other special events, Feast offers a chance to experience many of Tofino's world renowned attributes before our busier summer season." By Jen Dart

For more information about Feast! Tofino and all its associated events and specials, please visit www feastbc com or follow them on Twitter (@FeastBC) and Facebook

Dock side in Tofino - the FEA ST! line-up left to right: Joel Aubie (Shelter Restaurant), Nicolas Nutting (The Pointe), Matt Wilson (The Point), Cameron Young (Tacofino), Margo Bodchon (Sea Shanty), Nick Donaldson (The Common Loaf ), Mare Dewar (Schooner Restaurant), Tracy Head (Breakers), Liam Paul (Long Beach Lodge), Bobby Lax (TUCG), John Gilmour (Trilogy), Vincent Fraissange (The Spotted Bear Bistro), Bonnie Mar tell (Wildside Grill).

by DENISE MARCHESSAULT Photography by C AROLI NE WEST Wrap any fish in parchment with a generous dollop of seasoned but ter for a simple, memorable meal . Halibut en Papillote with roasted tomatoes, sweet peppers and olive butter

master cooking class

he French call it poisson en papillote a simple meal that brings back one of my fondest food memories

We exchanged homes with a family from Bordeaux last summer. Their home was ancient with a modest kitchen and an oven so small we named it Le Easy Bake I grew accustomed to the limitations of our pint sized fridge and the need to buy food in small, thoughtful quantities Fresh fish from the poissonnier was the dinner plan that night I topped each fillet of cod with thin coins of summer squash and a generous daub of butter flavoured with fresh herbs and lemon juice. Wrapping each bundle in parchment, I baked the parcels until the paper puffed up from the steam The pleasure of watching everyone tear open their surprise packages and pause just long enough to inhale the fragrance still makes me smile The fish was perfectly moist, steamed in its own juices and bathed in herb scented butter

Cooking fish in parchment is easy; you hardly need a recipe. Simply place a piece of fish, any type you like, on a piece of parchment with your favourite vegetables, herbs and butter. (Foil will do, if you don’t mind a camping style presentation.) Seal the parch ment edges with egg white, crimp closed and bake until the packages are puffed with steam, about eight minutes Because you can’t test the fish for doneness, I usually sacrifice one parcel (mine, naturally) by ripping it open to have a peek I want to be sure the fish is slightly underdone because it continues to steam until the parcel is opened Overcooking your fish will zap its succulence, so rally the troops to the table while the fish is still in the oven

FIsh en Papillote

The vegetables you select must cook in sync with the fish. Because of the brief cook ing time, they must be either precooked, in the case of a dense potato, or sliced thin enough to steam briefly, as with squash. Some vegetables, like julienned peppers and carrots, need little cooking and add a welcome textural contrast

You’ll need a generous pinch of salt to season your fish and a courageous amount of butter to keep it moist Steaming fish and vegetables without fat may feel virtuous, but it makes for a disappointing fish en papillote Nothing compares to the magic of butter it keeps your fish succulent and provides an instant sauce for your vegetables. Plain butter is good but flavoured butter, called “compound butter,” is even better The process is simple: combine softened butter with chopped herbs (or spices) and add an acidic ingredient to the mix lemon juice is often used, but vinegars also work well Place the compound butter on a piece of plastic wrap or parchment; roll into a cylinder and place in the refrigerator or freezer until needed. Lemon and parsley are traditional flavour ings, but butter is happy with any seasoning how about cilantro, lime and jalapeno or anchovies and smoked paprika? There are no rules when it comes to compound butter. Try adding chipotle peppers, olives, reduced stock, horseradish, mint, crushed cardamom or ginger Tinker with your favourite seasonings and come up with your ver y own signature butter With a stash of compound butter in the freezer, you have an instant flavour enhancer at the ready It’s a great ally for fish, but it also livens up vegetables, grilled chicken or beef and adds a luxurious silky finish to soups and sauces. It doesn’t take a trip to France to create an unforgettable meal Gift wrap your fish in parchment this spring and create your own memorable version of fish en papillote

Halibut en Papillote with Olive and Caper Butter

The flavours of this dish are very pure Mirror these pure flavours with an unoaked, crisp white like a mineral driven Chardonnay, or a lemon and bitter almond Verdicchio from central Italy.

Treve Ring

Halibut en Papillote with Olive and Caper Butter

Serves four.

3/4 cup cherry tomatoes, sliced in half

1 Tbsp olive oil

1 tsp fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped

Kosher salt

1 lb fresh halibut, divided into 4 equal portions, skin removed

2 small sweet yellow peppers, thinly sliced

2 small sweet orange peppers, thinly sliced Olive and caper butter

4 sprigs thyme

Parchment paper

Egg white, lightly beaten with a fork

Vegetable oil

Preheat oven to 375°F.

Spread the tomatoes on a parchment or foil lined baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with fresh thyme and a generous pinch of kosher salt Roast in the oven for about 7 to 10 minutes until softened and aromatic

Cut 4 sheets of parchment large enough to encase the fish and vegetables, about 16 by 12 inches each Fold each sheet in half, leaving four “envelopes” about 8 by 12 inches

Open an envelope and place one portion of halibut in the centre of one side; season with kosher salt. Add a quarter of the sliced peppers and roasted tomatoes. Top with a disk of olive and caper butter (about 1 generous tablespoon) and a sprig of fresh thyme

Using a pastry brush, lightly coat the edges of the parchment with the beaten egg white Fold the parchment in half to enclose the fish, and press the edges together to seal Fold or crimp the parchment edges to reinforce the packet (It’s important to seal the edges properly, to keep the steam in ) Using a pastry brush, lightly coat the top of the packet with the vegetable oil to prevent it from burning. Place on a baking tray. Repeat with remaining ingredients.

If not cooking immediately, refrigerate until ready to cook If assembling the pack ets in advance, allow them to warm at room temperature, about 15 to 20 minutes, before placing in the oven

Bake for about 7 to 8 minutes or until the packets puff up and the fish is just cooked Serve immediately on warmed dinner plates Allow your guests to open each packet themselves.

Salmon en Papillote with Cilantro Butter

Serves four

2 leeks, white parts only, sliced

1 Tbsp butter 1 Tbsp water

tsp kosher salt, plus more as needed 4 medium sized red potatoes, steamed or simmered until just cooked 1 lb salmon fillet, divided into 4 equal portions, skin removed

Cilantro butter

Parchment paper

Egg white, lightly beaten with a fork

Vegetable oil

Preheat oven to 375°F.

In a small saucepan, cook the leeks with the 1 Tbsp of plain butter and water, covered, on medium low heat until completely softened, about 30 minutes Season with kosher salt and check for seasoning, adding additional salt if necessary

Slice the steamed potatoes about a quarter inch thick and divide into four portions

Cut 4 sheets of parchment large enough to encase the fish and vegetables, about 16 by 12 inches each Fold each sheet in half, leaving four “envelopes” about 8 by 12 inches.

Open an “envelope” and place a layer of potatoes in the centre of one side; this will

form a base for the salmon. Season potatoes lightly with kosher salt and place the salmon on top; also season the fish lightly with kosher salt Top the salmon with a quarter of the cooked leeks and a disk of cilantro butter, about 1 generous tablespoon

Using a pastry brush, lightly coat the edges of the parchment with the beaten egg white Fold the parchment in half to enclose the fish, and press the edges together to seal Fold or crimp the parchment edges to reinforce the packet (It’s important to seal the edges properly, to keep the steam in.) Using a pastry brush, lightly coat the top of the packet with the vegetable oil to prevent it from burning. Place on a baking tray. Repeat with remaining ingredients.

If not cooking immediately, refrigerate until ready to cook If assembling the pack ets in advance, allow them to warm at room temperature, about 15 to 20 minutes, before placing in the oven Bake for about 7 to 8 minutes or until the packets puff and the fish is just cooked Serve immediately on warmed dinner plates Allow your guests to open each packet themselves.

Cilantro Butter

1½ cups fresh cilantro leaves

½ cup fresh mint leaves (optional)

2 cloves garlic, chopped

3 4 jalapeno peppers, seeds removed, chopped

½ tsp sugar

1 tsp kosher salt Juice from 1 lemon

1 cup butter, softened to room temperature

In the bowl of a food proces sor, combine all the ingredients except the butter. When the mixture resembles a fine purée, add the softened butter Alter natively, chop the herbs, garlic and peppers finely; add the sugar, salt, lemon juice and softened butter Check the seasoning, adding more pep pers, salt and lemon as desired. It should have a spicy kick and a tart finish

Spoon the mixture onto a piece of parchment, wax paper or plastic wrap and roll into a cylinder Place in the fridge or freezer until ready to use Compound butters can be stored in the freezer for up to six months

Olive and Caper Butter

½ cup pitted olives, black and green varieties

3 anchovy fillets, mashed with a fork

2 Tbsp rinsed capers

1½ tsp hot smoked paprika

1 tsp hot sauce (Sriracha or chili paste)

½ tsp sugar

1 tsp kosher salt

¼ cup lemon juice

1 cup of butter, softened to room temperature

Combine ingredients in the bowl of food processor and mix until well combined. Alternatively, chop the olives, anchovies and capers finely; add the paprika, hot sauce, sugar, salt, lemon juice and softened butter Check the seasoning, adding more hot sauce, salt and lemon as desired It should be piquant with a smoky finish

Spoon the mixture onto a piece of parchment, wax paper or plastic wrap and roll into a cylinder Place in the fridge or freezer until ready to use

Olive butter with capers, anchovies and smoked paprika & piquant cilantro butter with jalapeño peppers

RED WINE

Yealands Estate Pinot Noir 2008, Central Otago, New Zealand * $23.00 25.00 (+164137)

Central Otago, on the south island of New Zealand has quickly become a source of high quality pinot noirs These are wines to look out for and the few Otago pinots found on liquor store shelves throughout this great province are generally a reliable bet as to quality. Ver y fruit for ward with lovely cherr y, plum and earth nuances. Supple and fresh with a taut acid structure and good length.

Antiyal Kuyen 2009, Maipo Valley, Chile * $33 00 35 00 (+49320)

All the wines of Antiyal are organic and biodynamically grown Owner winemaker Alvaro Epinoza is one of the planet’s leading proponents of biodynamic viticulture and visiting the family’s tiny vineyard in the Maipo is a revelation of sustainable agriculture The wines are pretty interesting too! The 2009 Kuyen, which roughly trans lates to “moon” in the local Mapuche dialect, is a blend of Syrah (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (37%), Carmenere (21%) and Petit Verdot (2%). It is medium bodied with exotic spice, violets and ripe berry aromas Supple yet concentrated with great purity Vignerons de Buxy Buissonnier Cote Chalonnaise Rouge 2009, France * $27.00 30.00

Good affordable red Burgundy is an oxymoron. It is the Holy Grail, Camelot and the Tooth Fairy all rolled into one unattainable ball But brace yourself; it is going to get a whole lot worse! The Chinese market has discovered the sublime delights of this magic kingdom and are about to hoover up all that is good and beautiful This is a harbinger of impending financial Armageddon for Canadian Burgundy aficionados! Where the Grand Crus dare soar, the rest are sure to follow Having shot my bolt, try this frisky little pinot from just off the beaten path Soft and supple with spicy red cherry, leather and warm earth aromas and flavours that coat the palate and linger through the finish.

Peter Lehmann Layers Red 2009, Barossa, Australia $17 00 20 00 (+200261)

This hearty come drink me blend of five grapes from Australia’s Barossa Valley is polished, powerful and utterly delicious It has a silky smooth texture with soft tannins and gobs of dark berry and chocolate flavours.

Gran Mauro Primitivo del Salento 2010, Italy $16 00 17 00 (+818054)

This hearty Primitivo from flat dusty plains of southern Italy is an alluring mélange of concentrated plum, cassis and vanilla flavours imbued with an attractive earthy fecundity Balanced and full bodied, with a patina of fine grained tannins and a firm persistent finish

left: Venturi Schulze Primavera 2010, Cobble Hill, Vancouver Island right: Robin Ridge Chardonnay 2009, SimilkameenValley

liquid assets —by Larry Ar nold

WHITE WINE

Jean Milan Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc Special Champagne NV, France * $63.00 70.00 (+609214)

When first introduced to this very small family owned Champagne house located in the tiny village of Oger, I did not know what to expect but I am happy to report that this gorgeous Blanc de Blanc did not let me down Full bodied with apple, brioche and toasty nut flavours, slightly creamy with a fine gentle mousse nicely balanced with crisp acidity and a clean, dry finish. A lovely bottle of bubble.

Max Ferdinand Richter Estate Riesling 2009, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany* $27.00 30.00 (+610899)

The Richter estate located in the heart of the Mosel has been in the family for over 300 years; so to say the family knows a thing or two about Riesling surely must be an understatement The Estate Riesling is produced from vines under 15 years old using grapes of a least Kabinett and Spatlese quality The quality level is then deliberately downgraded and vinified as simple Qualitatswein (Qba). This enables Richter to produce a style that is consistent from one vintage to the next. Off dr y with concentrated apricot, peach and mineral aromas and lovely vibrant fruit flavours balanced with a jolt of bracing acidity

Domaine Boudin Chablis 2009, France * $32.00 35.00 (+158394)

The Boudin style strives for purity and the expression of terroir, thus if you enjoy Chardonnay that has just had an intimate relationship with the inside of an oak barrel, these wines are not for you This is their entr y level Chablis and it is a tremendous value! Hand picked and bottled without filtration, this stunning Chablis is full bodied with racy acidity and citrus, green apple and oyster shell aromas. Very clean and fresh on the palate with restrained fruit flavours and great minerality through the finish! Fantastic!

Vignerons des Terres Secretes Croix de Montceau Saint Véran 2010, France * $24 00 26 00

Somewhat Chablis like with green apple, citrus and spice flavours, slightly creamy on the palate, with good length, crisp acidity and a clean fresh finish Another fine Burgundy at a great price.

Venturi Schulze Primavera 2010, Cobble Hill, Vancouver Island * $22.00 24.00 Wow, the power and intensity of this off dry white from Cobble Hill is mind blowing. A blend of grapes from the cool 2010 growing season; Primavera came as a startling revelation The acidity is electrifying but so is the nose and on the palate the wine is unbelievable with layers of concentrated peach, passionfruit and mandarin flavours

Robin Ridge Chardonnay 2009, SimilkameenValley, BC * $20 00 23 00 (+ 72637)

Robin Ridge is a small family owned winery located just outside of Keremeos in British Columbia’s beautiful Similkameen Valley. The 2009 Chardonnay is rich and spicy with tropical fruit flavours and a lush, creamy texture. Great length with plenty of toasty oak through the finish Delicious

Rosé

JoieFarm Rosé 2011, Okanagan Valley, BC * $23 00 25 00 (+426551)

Some people never figure this industry out; not so Michael Dinn and winemaker Heidi Noble Their new world spin on old world classics are delicious and perhaps more im portantly, dependable vintage after vintage! The 2011 Rosé is slightly off dr y with plenty of heft on the palate, mouth watering acidity and intense aromas and flavours of red berries, cherries and sage Fresh and clean with lip smacking flavours and a long juicy finish

DRINKING Guide: How to use our purchasing

*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores. Some may be in limited quantities All other wines are available through BC Liquor Stores visit www bcliquorstores com or download the free BC LiquorStores iPhone App for locations and availability Prices may vary

The EAT Guide to Comfort Food

This month’s challenge is to match wine to Pizzas: Red & White

Jake Skakun (JS), Sommelier, L’Abattoir

Josh is a Cer tified Sommelier with over 20 years in the restaurant business He has worked in Whistler, Vancouver and Victoria and also two years in London, England as Sommelier at Jamie Oliver’s res t aurant, Fif t een By night he’s at Il Ter razzo Ris torant e in Victoria working wit h t he largest wine list on Vancouver Island

By da y you can f ind him online at winemonkey ca, ha ving “serious fun wit h wine ”

RED Pizza: Calabrese salame, tomato, mozzarella, red onion, black olives, anchovies

JC I like this dish because it can be paired a few different ways. The biggest deciding factor in this dish is the saltiness, coming from three main ingredients: the Calabrese, the olives and the anchovies The easy solution to salt is acidity Sure you could do a white or sparkling wine, but I would drink red with good natural acidity and not too much body You want to complement the dish without overpowering it The Barbera grape from Piedmont in northern Italy would work well Not only will it work with the saltiness of the big three, it will also complement the tomato component. Get a little crazy and stick the bottle in the fridge for 15 minutes before serving The slight chill will soften the alcohol, lift the acidity and make for a refreshing pairing

JS So often sommeliers have cast that demeaning label of 'a nice little pizza wine' at so many cheap and cheerful bottles It's a pleasure to suggest a pizza wine in a real pizza eating scenario This one calls for something spicy, high acid (tomatoes), and earthy and I will venture onto a limb and choose a red from Italy However, the red I'm thinking of is a little off the beaten track: coming from the southeast corner of Sicily and an area called Vittoria Here you find Nero d'Avola and Frappato; both tend to

Jake Skakun is a writer and wine professional based in Vancouver; most days, you can find him on t he floor at Gastown’s L’Abattoir where he oversees the wine program He's been educated about wine from t he ISG, WSET and UC Davis Wit h a couple more trips in the works, he has had a chance to tour many of the wine regions of France, Italy, Spain, t he US and more locally, British Columbia He blogs from time to time on t he website Cherries and Clay

make wines that are lighter, fresher and prettier than you expect to come from this part of the world A straight Frappato would be perfect a Cru Beaujolais of Southern Italy bright and fruity, with spice and an obvious Italian herbaceous character.

MS Mmmm That’s my kind of pizza! I’ll go with one of the following three: Valpolicella (Italy Superiore and/or Classico if you can get it), Bierzo (some lovely Spanish Bierzos out there total bang for your buck!) or Sangiovese (New World Loving Howard Soon’s Sandhill Small Lots version: xo) Look for a rustic flavour to the wine to enhance the salame / black olive components At the same time, we don’t want anything too tannic or full flavoured as either would overpower the flavours and the weight of the pizza Hence, I suggest old world wines or varietals with lighter bodies and moderate acidity

WHITE Pizza: Porcini béchamel cream, roasted mushrooms, roasted onions, fresh thyme, fontina, pecorino cheeses

JC With this dish I am immediately drawn to the mushrooms and the cream. You need a wine that can stand up to the meatiness of the porcini but also compli ment the creaminess of the sauce I’ve been doing this pairing for a number of years and my choice has always been white Burgundy The malolactic fermentation that the Chardonnay undergoes adds the necessary creaminess

Mireille s t ar t ed her wine career as ‘Canada’s Young es t Female Sommelier’ in 1997 With multiple gold medals for restaurant wine programs under her belt, Ms Sauvé founded The Wine Umbrella in 2005, aiming to raise t he bar of wine appreciation among Canadians She has worked closely wit h Wine Australia, Wines of France, Wines of Ger many, Wines from Spain and Wines of Por tugal

to the wine. The carefully balanced use of oak adds the weight and structure needed to compliment the mush rooms Being a cooler climate, white Burgundy also tends to have good acidity which helps cut through the richness of the cream sauce. Check out some great wines from appellations like Saint Véran, Rully or Pouilly Fuissé JS Many interesting whites come from the volcanic hills of Campania the province of Naples and the home of Napoli style pizza. It's also home to whites from grapes like Falanghina, Greco and Fiano. This pizza obviously cries for a wine that has a creamy texture (bechemel) is earthy (mushrooms) and has some mineral characters to play off the cheeses I'd be intrigued to try a slice with a rich and floral styled Fiano di Avellino.

MS My top three wine pairings for this one are white Rhône (inexpensive version like Louis Bernard or Ogier from France), cool climate Chardonnay (look to BC or Niagara for these) and “Bordeaux Abordables” or ‘affordable Bordeaux’ (moderately priced white Bordeaux ranging from $10 to $20 a bottle) Drawing mushroom type flavours out of dishes is a wine’s most honourable mission. As such, we look to wines that feature mineral flavours with dry overtones, all the while complementing the food’s herbaceous flavours Additionally, the pizza’s creaminess from both the sauce and the cheese demands a stern level of austerity, present in all of these wines

Josh Clark (JC), Sommelier, Il Terrazzo Ristorante

what to drink with that—by Treve Ring

Mireille Sauvé (MS), Sommelier, The Wine Umbrella

DRINK editor Treve Ring asks local wine experts how they would approach pairing dishes and flavours.

The Buzz

VICTORIA: In addition to all t he usual happy signs of spring cherr y blossoms, spring greens, morels, asparagus and rhubarb, a few other new sprouts seem to be emerging around one city block downtown The Clay Pigeon opened its doors at the corner of Broughton St and Blanshard Ave in mid March At the time of printing, the restaurant was still waiting for the sign to go up on the new black awning, but hungr y downtown of fice workers have welcomed them A first visit had me salivating over a moist Porchetta sand wich with apple and pickled fennel and a side of kale Caesar salad They are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, seven days a week (7 30am 10pm) Fully licensed wit h a good looking wine list, t his place is rapidly gaining a steady following Down the street (1018 Blanshard), a subsidiar y of The Little Thai Place has opened, called Noodle Car t Ser ving up traditional Thai fare, including specialties from the Isan region, which dif fers from most Thai food in its use of sticky rice and fier y chilies Open for lunch and dinner, seven days a week (www noodlecar t com) One block down, on Douglas, a sign is up for a new eater y called The Melt, with the promise of bring ing great grilled cheese options to the downtown lunch crowd More details to follow Around the corner, on Broughton, t he ever c hanging space on t he g round f loor of t he SoMa building has a new sign up announcing the imminent opening of the Cleopatra Café and Hookah Lounge Along with twelve flavours of (tobacco free) shishas, the café will be ser ving tea, Turkish cof fee, and homemade desser ts Other news on the downtown food circuit include a big local chain’s rebranding: the flagship location of Romeo’s, at Blanshard and Fisgard has completed its renovation and is the first in the chain to implement the company ’ s new “modern restaurant and lounge concept” The city gained an international candy shop when Oh Sugar opened on LoJo (561 Johnson St ), of fering “sinfully good chocolates and sweets from around the world” And a new spot on Herald St; Jam Café opened in early April and is poised to launch a fresh menu

For any food entrepreneurs looking for a c hange of scener y, Campbell River's own Cheddar & Co Specialty Foods is for sale This successful, popular eater y, cheese emporium and deli has a loyal follow ing and would best suit a culinar y exper t For more information visit the website (www cheddarandco com) or call Michelle @ 250 830 024 4

Bruce & Merrilee Stuar t have announced the closing of The Wine Barrel af ter 19 years in operation The license moves to a new location in the lower mainland No local buyers were found This season has seen some big accomplishments for a number of prominent members of Victoria’s food community Chef Dwane MacIsaac, president of the Island Chef Collaborative and owner of PassionEat Foods has a new television show on CHEK T V called YUM! The program airs weekly on Thursdays at 8pm and each episode features a dif ferent local guest chef from the Island to cook with Last but not least, Island Wineries of British Columbia, from the contributors of EAT magazine and edited by Gar y Hynes, was awarded the Gourmand International Wine Books Award 2011 for Canada, and has been selected as a finalist for the Bill Duthie Booksellers’ Choice Award at BC Book Prizes This award is presented to the originating publisher and author(s) of the best book in terms of public appeal, initiative, design, production and content The 27th Annual BC Book Prizes awards gala will be held on Saturday, May 12 in Vancouver Congratulations to Gar y and all t he EAT contr ibutors who collaborated on t his beautiful book Rebecca Baugniet Cont’d on the next page

VANCOUVER: David Gunawan, former EC at West, will soon be running the kitchen at Wildebeest (120 Wes t Has tings St., no website), t he new joint venture between Abigail’s Par ty owner James Iranzad and The Diamond owner Josh Pape Look for ward to snout to tail cuts and lots of good tipples, thanks to the sommelier ser vices of Lindsay Ferguson, formerly of Salt Tasting Room

Truf fles (www truf flesfinefoods com) has a new café at VanDusen Botanical Garden, with former Relais and Chateaux chef, Reto Ballat, at the helm, as well as master barista, Massimo Perego Look for fresh, housemade snacks and meals, af ternoon tea, and fair trade cof fees and teas

Darren Brown, the new EC at Fairmont Pacific Rim’s Oru (www orucuisine com), has launched a new menu, moving away from t he Pan Asian cuisine of former chef David Wong to a more Pacific Nor thwest inspired focus, with glances to the Pacific Rim

Fairmont Hotels and Resor ts has appointed their first ever female executive chef in the histor y of the brand Dana Hauser, a Fair mont ve t eran, will t ake over t he EC duties at Fairmont Wat er front (www fairmont com/water front) and its restaurant, Herons West Coast Kitchen & Bar Hauser will also be cooking at James Beard House in New York this month

John Blakely , owner of Bis tro Pas tis, has opened a second res t aurant, Le Par isien (www leparisien ca), in the old Café de Paris location in the West End The menu features boudin noir, rotisserie chicken, roasted bone marrow, and three kinds of tar tare (beef, tuna and salmon)

And in the ongoing pizza saga, Via Tevere (www viateverepizzeria com) is now bringing Neapoli tan pizza to 1190 Victoria Drive Run by first generation Canadians who hail from, yes, Naples, look for authentic Napoletana street fare, a daily pasta dish, and lots and lots of pie

Tom Doughty and Rob Belcham, the brains behind Campagnolo and Campagnolo Roma, have closed their Refuel location on West 4th Ave, and par tnered with first time owner Ted Anderson to open Fat Dragon Bar B Q (www fatdragonbbq com) at 566 Powell St The concept sees Asian flavours married to American sout hern barbecue met hods The in house smoker will use local fruit woods for extra flavour

This season ’ s Top Chef Canada contestant Trevor Bird will be opening Fable (no website) at the for mer Refuel location at 194 4 West 4 Avenue, with a farm to table mindset and contemporar y Canadian menu

Also on Powell S tree t, Chr is S t ewar t and Andrey Durbac h, t he pair behind Pied à Terre, Cafeteria and La Buca, are opening a new restaurant called The Sardine Can

The City of Vancouver has approved 12 new street car ts to be added to the current roster, bringing the total number of car ts to 103 The newbies include Ze Bite (French stew and sandwiches), Mogu (Japanese, pork katsu sandwiches), Rimfoodbaht (aut hentic Thai), and Feastro the Rolling Bistro (sustainable meat sandwiches)

The f irs t annual Vancouver Int ernational Teq uila Expo (www vancouver t eq uilaexpo com) happens this month on May 12 Look for seminars, trade and consumer tastings, and oppor tunities to tr y tequilas not yet carried in B C

Swee t endings Car t ems Donut er ie (www car t ems com) has opened wit h many raves for t heir organic, local and fresh doughnuts Baked, vegan and gluten free options are available Tr y the honey parmesan or earl grey versions

Anya Levykh

TOFINO: Halibut season has s t ar t ed and ever y where t here are signs of t he upcoming summer season in Tofino

As we prepare for the onslaught of another tourist season, there are quite a few exciting events to note The culinar y festival Feast! Tofino is scheduled to star t May 18 and run through June 2 In a scaled down version of last year ’ s inaugural festival, Feast! will feature one week focused on salmon and one week on spot prawns Dock festivals, guest chefs, pr ix f ixe menus around town, special events and excursions are all par t of t his culinar y extrava ganza See the ar ticle in this edition (page 30) and visit www feastbc com for more information and a schedule of events

EAT is a sponsor of Feast! Tofino as well as the event it leads into the Tofino Food and Wine Festival June 1 3 a weekend long series of events t hat is anc hored by Grazing in t he Gardens, t he main event on June 2nd Held at t he Tof ino Bot anical Gardens, this event features samplings from Tofino’s chefs and t he Island’s food pur veyors, as well as from a slew of BC winer ies Please visit www tofinofoodandwinefestival com for information Cong ratulations to Shelt er Res t aurant head chef Joel Aubie for being par t of the most recent season of Top Chef Canada on the Food Network A t press time Aubie couldn’t say muc h about his involvement in the show, as it had not yet concluded on air He did say it was a “stressful but enjoyable” experience that was “ once in a lifetime ” Filmed in Toronto, the show star ts out with 16 competitors and t hey are g radually eliminat ed t hrough cooking challenges until only one remains You’ve got t he c hance to treat Mom r ight t his year wit h Mot her’s Day br unc h at t he Point e

Restaurant at the Wickaninnish Inn on May 13 from 8am 2pm. The Point e ’ s c hef Nic holas N utting has been busy travelling to var ious culinar y events In Apr il he reunit ed wit h for mer Wic kaninnish c hef s Andrew Spr ing e tt and Duncan Ly, as well as one of his mentor c hef Michael Noble for an invite only culinar y event at t he Ho t el Ar ts in Calg ar y On June 11t h c hef Nutting and Pastr y Chef Matt Wilson will be guest c hef s at anot her Relais & Chât eaux proper ty, Hastings House on Saltspring Island, for “Chefs Across the Water,” a guest chef program that raises funds for the promotion of local, organic food

Tofino’s own professional food lover Bobby Lax (he’s t he coordinator for t he Tof ino Ucluele t Culinar y Guild and the Clayoquot Sound Oyster Fes tival) has expanded his activities to include a regular radio spot on the local Long Beach Radio

The Fr iday Funky Food Hour s tar ts at 9am ever y Fr iday The point of t he show is to highlight t he amazing people, ingredients and events that make eating on t he wes t coas t suc h a naturally pleasurable experience, says Lax

The Sc hooner Res taurant has been a Tof ino s t aple for 54 years Cur rent c hef Mare Bruce’ s parents were t he pioneers, and now she and her family continue to run t he Schooner New for t his season are a lounge menu and an oyster bar menu

The Sc hooner has many Feas t relat ed events sc heduled; please visit www f eas tbc com and www schoonerrestaurant com for more information Jen Dar t

OKANAGAN: Spring time in the Okanagan enjoy t he blossoms blooming and t he opening of new wineries including Saxon Winer y (Summerland), Misconduct Winer y, Upper Bench Estate Win

er y (Naramata Bench Wineries), Terravista Vine yards (Penticton), Platinum Bench Estate Winer y (Oliver) and Gold Hill Winer y (Osoyoos)

The Okanagan Spring Wine Festival runs from May 4t h to May 13t h Highlight events include Discover the Kelowna Lakeshore Wineries Cherish Our Heritage, Gray Monk Winer y ’ s 30th, 40th & 50th Anniversar y Ultimate Chef’s Table Dinner , the Oliver Osoyoos wineries first Bannee Pig out at Cover t Farms, and Summerhill Pyramid W in er y ’ s Fer tility Festival www thewinefestivals com Spir it Ridg e Resor t has two new res t aurants Newly opened fine wine dining Mica (previously Passa Tempo) run by well known restaurateur, Dave Keeler also of t he Sonora Room at Burrowing Owl and West Kelowna’s Kekuli Café of “don’t panic we have bannock” fame will be opening their second location on the May long weekend at the Nk’Mip beachfront which includes a large patio Also, Moo lix Ice Cream well know by Kelownites celebrates the opening of their second location in Osoyoos

The Firehall Brewer y, Oliver’s first microbrew er y has of f icially opened wit h t he release of t he brewer y ’ s flagship beer, the Stoked Amber Ale, in the Old Firehall Building below the Firehall Bistro Excit ement is building at Blac k Hills W iner y as they ready to open their new tasting room and wine shop complete with poolside cabanas on June 5th make sure to book a tasting

Okanagan Falls now has it’s own ar tisan cof fee café Dogtown Cof fee Company Enjoy a good cup of joe, Americano, cappuccino or latte featur ing beans from local Okanag an roas t er y t he Beaner y as well as ar t from local ar tists The 12 wineries of Okanagan Falls have recently formed

their own winer y association www ofwa ca Can

restaurant be far behind?

Cheese yes please! The N aramat a Benc h Wineries now boasts two ar tisan cheese boutiques where visitors can see c heeses being made and enjoy samples The award winning Poplar Grove Cheese Boutique is joined by just opened Upper Bench Winer y which in addition to be a winer y, houses local ar tisan cheese maker, Shana Miller in a brand new state of the ar t creamer y where de licious brie, blue & washed rind cheeses are made on site

Well known to islanders, and from the Cittaslow community of Cowic han Bay, t he True Grain Baker y will excit edly be opening t heir second location in Summer land, in t he space previously occupied by the Cake Box Baker y which closes its doors af ter 65 years wit h happy owners looking for ward to t heir re tirement The Jus t Delicious Japanese Bistro is expanding and moving across the street to the location formerly occupied by the Vanilla Pod & Tapas Res t aurant whic h has relocat ed to Poplar Grove Winer y Don’t miss a sake margherita on the patio this summer along with excellent sushi

The Wild BC Spot Prawn Festival returns to the Okanagan, with this year ’ s festival taking place in Wes t Kelowna on Saturday, June 2nd at t he Cove Resor t wildbcspotprawns com Enjoy t he bes t of t he Okanagan spr ing including fresh herbs, blooms and asparagus Bot h t he Kelowna and Penticton outdoor Saturday Farmers markets are open For a full list of Farmer’s markets operating in t he Okanag an and BC visit www bcfarmersmarket org It’s good to be in t he Okanagan Claire Sear

DELIGHTFUL PAIRINGS. A PERFECT PARTNERSHIP.

The Pointe Restaurant at the Wickaninnish Inn is the perfect place to savour the season, especially since we’ve partnered with the Tofino Ucluelet Culinary Guild and Tourism Tofino to bring you Feast! – a May celebration of our culinary and natural riches leading up to the 10th annual Tofino Food and Wine Festival in June. Enjoy a $40 discount per night and 3-course Feast! dinner. Call now for complete details.

Michelle Bouffard and Michaela Morris

Cool is the New Hot

It’s no secret that wine drinkers have a love affair with rich, full bodied reds Go to countries Chile, Argentina and Australia all gained popularity with round, supple, fruit driven wines at affordable prices Blessed with dream climates, these countries initially planted in warmer regions where grapes could easily reach full maturity Eventually, though, producers were eager to offer another style of wine Without abandoning what they built their reputation on, all three looked to regions with more marginal climates They started exploring extremes of latitude and altitude as well as coastal areas where fog, rain, frost and lower temperatures may present a challenge. The resulting wines have a different profile characterized by lower alcohol, lighter body and vibrant acidity. Isn’t the secret to a lasting love affair to keep things fresh? Their labour of love has certainly rekindled our excitement.

The heart of Chile is known as the Central Valley. Chile made its reputation on full bodied Cabernet Sauvignon from this warm, dry and sunny nest. Visiting Chile and tasting through the selection offered at the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival revealed a much more diverse picture of Chile’s wines. In the mid ’80s, producers ventured beyond the Central Valley and began planting vines in Casablanca. Located close to the coast, this valley is exposed to cooling maritime influences, like ocean breezes and morning fog Today, it is known for producing some of Chile’s most vibrant Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Chardon nay Tr y Cono Sur’s Pinot Noir and Casa Lapostolle’s Cuvée Alexandre Chard The newer and neighbouring San Antonio Val ley sits closer to the ocean so the impact is even more acute The focus is on the same grapes that have been successful in Casablanca Fresh, crisp Sauvignon Blanc from Undurraga and Montes can be found locally and are the perfect match with ce viche

The innovative spirit of Chile’s winemakers has also led them far north to the regions of Elqui and Limarí Both feel the cooling effects of the Pacific Ocean, and in Elquí, some of the vineyards sit at 2,000 metres above sea level The most exciting variety from these areas is Syrah our personal coup de coeur from Chile Syrah/Shiraz has thrived in Chile for a long time, but these cooler regions allow the country to offer a completely different style Slightly leaner with more acidity and beautiful perfumed and meaty notes, they are akin to those coming from the North ern Rhône Valley Amazingly, we are just starting to see Chile’s full potential Chile’s leading figure and owner of Viña Errazuriz Eduardo Chadwick, recently ventured to the Aconcagua region Costa where Santa Rita, has just planted new vineyards on the granite soil of Pumanque Also, many estates are producing wine in the most south ern valleys of Bío Bío and Malleco

Neighbouring Argentina is enjoying its own renaissance Most of the wine produced there comes from the hospitable region of Mendoza The ongoing trend is to plant Malbec at higher elevations for a more refreshing and elegant expression that high lights the grape’s floral and savoury side. However, the latest buzz comes from much further afield. The emerging region of Patagonia lies hundreds of miles south of Men doza. Even when you’re in Argentina, it’s a trek to get there. Approaching Antarctica, it is associated with glaciers and penguins. Yet Patagonia boasts some of the most southerly vineyards in the world. While summer days are warm, winds are persistent and night temperatures drop dramatically, preserving freshness of aromas and acidity in the grapes. Malbec is of course planted here, but the real star is Pinot Noir. Recently, the owner and winemaker of Bodega Chacra, Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, shared his passion for the area during a visit to Vancouver. He describes it as an unforgiving place, but one blessed with an incredible luminosity. He goes on to explain that despite

daytime heat, wines often only achieve alcohol levels of 11 5 to12 percent His Barda Pinot exemplifies the flavour profile you find there: elegant and silky with pure wild strawberry flavours

Associated with big lush Cab and Shiraz, Australia has been the biggest surprise Eager to move beyond this stereotype, Australia is working hard to introduce trade and consumers to its cooler regions Wines from these areas offer a different expression of familiar grapes as well as grapes not normally associated with Australia On the west coast, Margaret River is cooled by currents from the Indian and Antarctic oceans and draws a comparison with Bordeaux. Indeed the Cabernets are more subtle and elegant with a fragrant aromatic lift and gravelly quality.

Chardonnay is equally successful in Margaret River, with the best being beautifully textured and complex. One fine example after another has convinced us that this is currently Australia’s most exciting grape. Xanadu Next of Kin and Evans & Tate are affordable starting points and highly crab worthy. Though it may be hard to believe, Australia even possesses spots that are cool enough to be taken seriously for Pinot Noir. In Victoria, in the southeast corner of the country, Mornington Peninsula juts out into the Bass Strait with no vineyard more than eight kilometres from the ocean. Kooyong and Yabby Lake are two highly regarded estates The Yarra Valley is slightly further inland with vineyards planted at varying altitudes Its Pinots are characterized by bright red fruit The chilliest corner of all is the island of Tasmania Grapes grown here are often used in sparkling wine production When made as still wine, Tasmania’s Pinots display fresh herbal notes and pronounced acidity; such as the Josef Chromy Finally, higher altitude vineyards in Eden and Clare Valley in South Australia have established themselves with dr y, racy and lime tinged Riesling Always a favourite with our local spot prawns But how “new” are cooler climate wines? In Europe, grapes have been growing in chillier areas for centuries Germany is just about as far north as grapes ripen and, with the exception of southern wine regions, most of France’s appellations are cool climate In general, these leaner, lower alcohol and more acidic wines are less fashionable next to big, powerful, full throttle fruit bombs from warmer places What a shame! Their charms are many, not least of which is how well they pair with food Nothing captures this more than the wines from the Loire Valley This region sits at the northwestern limit of viticulture, and its fine boned wines are sorely underappre ciated Versatile and charged with acidity, they are your best friends around the din ner table Light and tangy Muscadet is guaranteed to be no more than 12 percent and is just so easy to gulp with a plate of seafood Marquis Wine Cellars brings in some delicious Muscadet Sur Lie from Domaine de l’Ecu Racy Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé as well as Chenin Blanc from Vouvray and Savennières are equally mouth watering, especially with goat cheese. Vaugondy and Rimbault are good affordable versions of Chenin Blanc. And when it comes to reds, Cabernet Franc is the Loire’s darling. Embrace its pencil shaving, leather and herbal qualities. There is nothing like a Saumur or Chinon to go with your steak tartare. It’s all they serve in French bistros. This is what we call food wine.

As new world countries take a page from the old world, we hope these more delicate, restrained wines will be embraced. It’s not about leaving your favourite red behind but rather making new friends. Diversity is a beautiful thing. As the temperature rises, it is the perfect time to explore thirst quenching wines. If you like to be hip, remember that cool is hot!

Cooler climate wines are leaner, cleaner, lower in alcohol and food’s ver y best friend.

It’s not about leaving your favourite red behind but rather making new friends.

Reds

2009 Chono, Reser va Syrah, Elq ui Valley, Chile $19 22* (SKU #854604)

Full of meaty and pepper y aromas with enticing f lavours of licor ice and blac kber r y Enjoy wit h duck sausages Well priced and showing Syrah’s sexy side when planted in a cool climate

2010 Thierr y Germain, Saumur Champigny AOC, France $20 23 (SKU #616227)

100% Caber ne t Franc Cr unc hy and gulpable with fresh summer berries and a pepper y herbal lif t Pack an impromptu picnic of cheese, paté and a chilled bottle Steak tar tar is the ultimate match

2009 Nichol Vineyard, Estate Grown Syrah, Naramata, Okanagan Valley $35 39* It may seem bizar re if you ’ ve baked at 40°C temperatures in the Okanagan but BC is deemed cool climate The catch is that our season is shor t Black cherr y, savour y herbs, a hint of pepper and lovely bright acidity Brilliant with venison

2010 Bodegas Chacra, ‘Barda’ Pinot Noir, Pat agonia, Arg entina $40-45* (SKU #136382)

Elegant and silky with enticing pure wild

strawberries and wild herbs aromas and flavours A unique expression of Pinot Noir that works well wit h c hic ken, por k , g ame meat, duc k , tuna or salmon Did we mention it was versatile?

Whites

2009 Evans & Tate, Metricup Road, Chardon nay, Margaret River, Australia $20 23 (SKU #379149)

Slightly Chablis like in style though just a kiss of oak Res trained, t extured and balanced wit h lovely acidity and nectarine and citrus notes A no brainer with crab or halibut

2011 Mont es, Limit ed Ser ies Sauvignon Blanc, Leyda Valley, Chile $21 24* (SKU #76463)

From the area of San Antonio Fresh, bright and clean wit h exuberant g rapefr uit f lavours and a salty tang Divine with beet salad or ceviche

2010 Domaine Vac heron, Sancerre AOC, France $40 45 (SKU #179309)

An all time f avour it e t hat makes a regular appearance at our dining table Juicy citrus and mineral notes with a hint of grass A match made in heaven with asparagus salad or goat cheese Bonjour Crotin de Chavignol

DRINKING Guide: How to use our purchasing information.

*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores Some may be in limited quantities. All other wines are available through BC Liquor Stores visit www bcliquorstores com or download the free BC LiquorStores iPhone App for locations and availability Prices may vary

Is Your Wine List The Best?

to recognize three establishments on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands that have cultivated a successful wine program that reflects their menu, restaurant size and clientele.

As part of the 2012 Taste Wine Festival EAT Magazine is again sponsoring the Wine List Awards Awards* will be presented on July 19th at the Trade Tasting in three categories: Best Overall Wine Program (for the most exceptional wine list on the islands), Best Showcase of Island Wines (recognizes the list that best showcases the wines of Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands) and Most Diner Friendly Wine Menu (this wine list is approachable and easy for diners to understand)

Vancouver Island and Gulf Island restaurants are invited to submit their wine lists which will be judged by a panel of wine experts (Tim Pawsey wine writer, John Schreiner wine author and Treve Ring, EAT Magazine DRINK editor and Sommelier) Entries are accepted until May 18, 2012 and should be e mailed to info@VictoriaTaste com or mailed to: #1 356 Simcoe Street, Victoria, BC, V8V 1L1 For complete details and entr y guidelines go to: www.victoriataste.com/trade industr y or email info@VictoriaTaste com

*Winners will be listed in the next available issue of Eat Magazine with the winner of the Best Overall Wine Program receiving recognition and a feature article prize in the September/October 2012 issue This article and photography will highlight not only the winning restaurant and its wine program, but also the people who created the award winning wine list and program A writer and a photographer will visit the winning restaurant for an interview and photo session

EAT is distributed to over 350 Victoria, Vancouver Island, Vancouver mainland and Okanagan locations as well as being read online from Toronto to Seattle.

DESTINATION: PENTICTON

Locals and returning visitors know it for summertime Channel floating, a festival celebrating peaches, and annually collecting the largest grouping of Elvis fans this side of Graceland (okay, that might be a stretch) Sandwiched between lakes Okanagan and Skaha, the city of Penticton is slowly becoming recognized for its diverse culinary fare From bannock to burgers, the home of the Peach Festival has a few culinar y surprises in store

Breaking Fast

Nestled along a steep incline, The Bench Market on Vancouver Avenue offers feel good (and good for you) breakfast Housemade granola is served with yoghurt and local honey and coffee is from local roaster Backyard Beans. The words “organic” and “artisan” are tossed around like salad. And The Bench Market won the reader nominated Exceptional Eats Award for Best Lunch, too For a slightly more hearty break fast (sometimes required in wine country), enter the Elite Café It’s retro diner cool, right in the 300 block of Main Street, with lava lamps and an impressive collection of 1970’s wall clocks A quieter alternative is across the road at the Bellevue Café, with Fair Trade coffee and delicious pastries

Lunch

The midday meal doesn’t get much better than Il Vecchio Delicatessen on Robinson Street. Wedge yourself in at the busy counter and order a two meat sandwich with your choice of cheeses, almost any vegetable you can think of, and grab a pack of real licorice Pack it to go, or try to grab a seat at one of the few small tables Over in the 400 block of Main Street, Saint Germain Café & Gallery soothes the soul Former Vancouver restaurateur Stephano Liapis rocks the menu with simple yet elegant fare, such as homemade lentil soup, Nicoise salad, or prosciutto and provolone on a baguette Also worth a taste is garage turned burger joint Burger 55 Tucked just off Main Street on Westminster Avenue East, the people in this small building worship the burger in a serious way. Play vintage Nintendo while you await your custom burger; then, when your order’s ready, share a picnic table and make new friends

Unexpected Bites

Chip truck eats: Jeffer’s Fryzz, (on the corner of Nanaimo Avenue and Main Street) for the best fries I’ve tasted outside of Ontario plus they use real cheese curds for poutine Coffee and live music: Fibonacci’s on Main Street makes a serious chai latte, fun paninis, and other nibbles Bring on the bannock: the best bannock (a heritage Canadian pan fried bread) can be found at Hound Dog’s Café (seasonal, on Green Mountain Road at the Channel Parkway). Often, Elvis impersonator “Relvis” can be found serenading anyone within earshot. Urban esque cool: Wild Scallion on Front Street brings a bit of hip and a lot of awesome to the colourful street that angles itself off the 200 block of Main Street Gluten free and vegan friendly dishes, it is self pro claimed Asian fusion Three words to remember: Malaysian potato curry This joint is reminiscent of Vancouver’s Commercial Drive, circa late 1990’s

Dinner

A few of the best spices to be found outside of Vancouver are at Haveli Indian Restaurant in the 500 block of Main Street They’re a smaller operation, with great attention to detail and big plates done well and the naan makes one weak at the knees. On Front Street, Isshin Sushi and Asian Dining does great things with raw fish, rolls, and anything else sushi (don’t let the soda served in a mason jar fool you). Theos Greek Restaurant at the top of Main Street has been a Penticton landmark since 1976 and is a long time local favourite For one on one time with that special someone, Bogner’s of Penticton delivers upscale cuisine and a decent wine list in a refurbished character house, and the chef has his own herb garden right outside It’s just off Eckhardt Street, with distinct, upside down yellow doors And a trip to Penticton wouldn’t be complete without a stop at the award winning architectural feat that is the Hooded Merganser, with its panoramic view, perched atop the water. The menu and wine list almost play second fiddle to the surroundings, and with floor to ceiling windows, getting a good table isn’t difficult There’s plenty to eat in Penticton besides peaches (though don’t miss those either especially when purchased juicy fresh at The Downtown Penticton Farmers’ Market) It seems remiss not to include this open air market as it has wonderful eats and will be in full swing by the time this issue hits the street

By Jeannette Montgomery

A few years ago, EAT editor Gary Hynes set out to track one fish’s journey from ocean to restaurant plate He teamed up with Finest at Sea owner Bob Fraumeni to follow a rockfish from the frigid waters off the coast of Moresby Island to the cozy dining room table at Brasserie L’Ecole (You can read the full article online at the Finest at Sea website.) Today, thanks to technology and an innovative tracking program, con sumers can find out where the fish they are eating was caught, and who caught it. Thisfish is the name of the Canadian organization that allows consumers to learn more about their food, connecting diners to fish harvesters The idea behind the program, which launched in 2011, is “to make the seafood business more transparent, and reward those who responsibly harvest and handle your catch ”

When I first heard about the program, I must confess it brought to mind the clip from Portlandia, in which a couple at a restaurant badger their ser ver for more and more details about the chicken they are ordering, until finally asking her to hold their table while they go off to visit the farm it came from. However, once I learned more about Thisfish, I was pleased to find that it is much more than a gimmick to appease obsessive customers

The hub for this growing community is Thisfish info, the website onto which partic ipating fishermen upload the unique codes they assign to each fish they catch, and where consumers can read profiles on individual fishermen and even ask questions The program is an initiative of Ecotrust Canada and fishing industry partners, and involves fish harvesters from across Canada. It offers a unique forum for coastal fish harvesters to communicate with inland consumers One visitor, having traced the lobster she bought in September to a catch from June, was able to ask the lobster har vester to explain the length of time from catch to purchase The Nova Scotia based captain was interested to learn that his catch had ended up in Ottawa, and responded with a thorough explanation of long term storage practices for live lobsters

One local fisherman who is enjoying this new forum for meeting his customers is Guy Johnston In addition to joining Thisfish, Johnston has established Vancouver Island’s first Community Supported Fishery the Michelle Rose CSF which he named for his wife and daughter. Johnston, who grew up in Vancouver and was first introduced to the fishing life by one of his high school teachers, says the industr y has “transformed dramatically” since he began fishing more than 30 years ago Johnston explains that as fish farms and overharvesting by commercial boats have increasing pushed out small boat fishermen, it has become a severe challenge to remain economically viable using the traditional sales model It was Johnston’s friends, John and Katy Ehrlich, who run a successful CSA program at Alderlea Farm in the Cowichan Valley, who suggested he look at a community supported model

Johnston did a little online research and discovered that there were already several CSFs on the East Coast, and one in Vancouver as well. He calls it “fair trade for fishermen” and was surprised by the response he saw in his first season He had 65 families sign up more than double the amount he was hoping for

So how does a community supported fisher y work? The concept is similar to community supported agriculture box programs Members purchase a share of the year’s catch before the season begins In this case, a share is made up of shellfish ($200), a variety of salmon ($50 $200 depending on size and species), or a combination of both (the minimum amount for a share is $150). The catch is frozen at sea at the time of capture, ensuring the highest quality. Members then collect their seafood at assigned pickups at Fisherman’s Wharf in Cowichan Bay shellfish at the end of June and salmon at the end of August and November (This year, Johnston is also looking to offer a pickup location in Victoria ) The CSF model allows Johnston, as an independent fisherman, to sell direct to the consumer at a fair market price

Both Johnston’s daughter, Rosalie, and his son, Sebastian, fish with him, leaving at the end of April for six weeks to eight weeks for the spot prawn season at the north end of the Island. Then it’s home for a few weeks before heading further north for pink and sockeye salmon at the end of June After another brief return, it’s back out for chum salmon

Johnston’s fish and shellfish are all caught using low impact fishing methods (hook and line for salmon, trap for prawns), in accordance with the Vancouver Aquarium’s Oceanwise program As he explains it, programs such as Oceanwise and Thisfish do involve a certain time commitment, but the need to fish sustainably is deeply ingrained in small boat fishermen, who have witnessed first hand the negative effects of fish farms and over fishing. Johnston is offering an “octopus share” in his CSF this year as well and hopes to expand to include other species such as herring in the future He credits the Norwegian, Croatian and Greek fishermen he fished with in his early years on the water for exposing him to different culinary perspectives towards the fish we eat

Shares for the Michelle Rose CSF are still available for the 2012 season Visit www michellerosecsf com for more information Visit Thisfish info to learn more about tracking the fish you eat

Culinary Nirvana

do

think the future is for gourmet/fine dining cuisine in restaurants?

Sean Brennan Brasserie L’Ecole 250.475.6260

One person’s idea of fine dining can be considered a casual eatery by another. The true gourmet places will always have a spot today and tomorrow The customer will be more aware of spending their dollars on quality, therefore the good will survive and the poor will close P.S. We are not fine dining.

Chris Van Hooydonk The Sonora Room (Burrowing Owl Estate Winery) 250.498.0620

I think the future of fine dining and gourmet food will be an increase of interaction between the guest, their server, and the culinary team As guests become more aware of the importance of localvore eating, the story behind the plate is just as important as the food itself This is to say that the service side of dining will continue to evolve into the story of the food.

Peter DeBruyn The Strathcona Hotel 250.383.7137

I think there will always be a market for gourmet fine dining cuisine for high net worth families. As middle class consumers budget their personal spending more, I believe the casual upscale market will shrink while comfortable casual dining and quick service restaurants will keep expanding Peter Zambri Zambri’s 250.360.1171

Fine dining will always have a place in the hospitality industry while trends will come and go Although it is pleasurable to eat a sandwich, or something simple, with a paper napkin standing on the street, there is always room to sit back in a nice environment, enjoy a glass of fermented grape juice and eat an articulately prepared meal. I believe that food comes in many guises and they all complement each other. It’s a shame to think that one facet of ingestible is more important than the other

Jena Stewart Devour Bistro 250.590.3231

I strongly believe there will be a future for fine dining It is still an art and we must support the arts! I think as we patronize fine dining restaurants, we should plan to spend a little more than we have in the past Good food costs money and every year it increases The future for fine dining will be secure but we will all chose wisely where we spend our money My idea of a perfect evening is enjoying food at a gor geous restaurant with friends.

1 800 420 9463

I think “gourmet/fine dining” is being redefined, customers are looking for more comfortable rooms with a more approachable menu Fine dining seems to be corre lated to high prices, but should not always be so The level of cooking is actually be coming more “gourmet” We are serving seasonal ingredients at the peak of freshness and sourcing proteins from our region. That’s fine dining!

Alex How Pizzeria Primastrada (Bridge Street) 250.590.4380

Fine dining will always have a place People want fancy food for special occasions but don't want to pay for it on a regular basis. They want quality, local fast food more often It keeps me workin'

Laurie Munn Cafe Brio 250.383.0009

I think that the future of fine dining restaurants is going to shift towards more in formal and less traditional service scenarios with the focus being the quality of food and drink We are already seeing this on a global scale with restaurants like two Michelin star Noma in Copenahagen They have given up formal table settings and have cooks serve some of the dishes they prepare, and this is considered the best restaurant in the world by some. I think there will always be a place for gourmet/haute cuisine, but I hope the formality hovering over it dies out letting a breath of fresh air in and new ideas take root

PHOTOGRAPHY Food

250-389-1856

info@michaeltourigny.com 2001 Douglas Street - Unit F

Chef Roger Sleiman's Quails’ Gate Winery Old Vines Restaurant & Wine Bar

What

you

BROUGHTON ST, VICTORIA BC

PRESENTATION CENTRE

DUET Construction By

Duet is 90 thoughtfully-composed homes in two modern buildings that are proudly James Bay and perfectly in harmony with city life. Duet is in the best of all possible worlds, minutes from the bustle of downtown and the charms of James Bay Village; steps from Beacon Hill Park and moments to Fisherman’s Wharf. With a garden courtyard and warmly modern interiors, there’s no place you’d rather be. Come step into a Duet of your own.

PHASE ONE

PRESENTATION

Monkey in the Garden

A most cultured and cultivated roadside café in rural B.C.

By Ezra Cipes

A summer journey to Monkey in the Garden is an annual tradition for my family. After a two hour drive from Kelowna (three and a half from Vancouver), we arrive before lunch and immediately make ourselves at home in this roadside café 10 minutes south of Spences Bridge on scenic Hwy 8 Owner operators Brandie MacArthur and Michael St. Clair Coutts, hereinafter known as the Monkeys, sell almost everything they grow value added on the plate or preserved They draw their bounty from lush permaculture veggie gardens and orchards, and from their own chickens and goats They also trade with other B C organic farmers for grains and other goods On the farm, rows of familiar and unusual crops, including sweet potatoes, Charentais melons and dragon’s claw millet, grow amid volunteer tomatillos, sunflowers, Jerusalem artichokes and clover in productive and healthy low maintenance chaos. Some beneficial but invasive plants grow in prominent specimens amid the crops, but these seem to be staying in one place A field of gorgeous squash and pumpkins sit beneath a plum orchard on a natural plateau Native plants are all around, even inside the gardens, as are an impressive diversity of pollinators

Nearly every day the Monkeys move a freestanding chicken pen (chicken tractor) near old apple trees. The ground where the pen has just been is freshly weeded and tilled by the chickens and potential pests eaten The Monkeys sprinkle buckwheat and pea seed into the freshly prepared ground and cover it with a thin layer of mulch. Eggs are collected, the chicken’s water is changed, and the old water given to nearby perennial vegetables “The chickens became so much healthier when we put them here,” Michael asserts. By the size of the eggs, I believe him.

These two young lovers are really genius chefs in the guise of modern hippies, their focus on health and well being along with pure culinar y delight. Beans, nuts and grains are soaked with a little apple cider vinegar overnight to “neutralize the phytic acid and make them more digestible ” The grains used for baking are then drained, rinsed, sprouted, dehydrated and ground into flour Michael and Brandie have active sourdough buckwheat and rye cultures, a kefir culture, kombucha and even home made wines and beers. And they are downright creative when it comes to pickling. We savoured lacto fermented cherries that seemed like the ripest, softest olives from the Mediterranean. Crocks and jars are filled with cucumbers, beans, cabbage and roots, all stewing in bacterial broths Once they tried pickling sunchokes, grated and pressed in the sunchokes’ own seasoned juice without brine The high amounts of natural sugar proved explosive, but the surviving jar was delicious.

During our recent visit, we ordered the Monkey wraps, prepared on buckwheat sourdough flatbread similar in texture and flavour to Ethiopian injera. The bread was spread with a layer of roasted garlic goat cheese made with kefir culture It was a tough decision between the goat cheese, the vegan pesto or the homegrown babaganoush Next, a bed of heirloom tomatoes and flavourful garden greens and herbs, and farm fresh eggs (or the bean of the day for vegans) To drink, we sampled goat milk cappuccinos and Monkey brewed kombucha they have various flavours including chai, hibiscus, ginger and Earl Grey

A highlight of the meal was an upside down cake, which they prepare all spring and summer long with different fruits as they come into season We were fortunate to be there during peach season Served with custard sauce (goat milk, sprouted spelt flour, unrefined cane sugar, unrefined organic coconut oil and unrefined sea salt), it was remarkably delicious, something you would expect to taste in a Parisian café and not on the side of a dusty highway between Merritt and Spences Bridge. Monkey in the Garden is a culinar y treasure nestled in B C ’s rural desert, and well worth the adventure to get there

Open for lunch and dinner, Saturdays and Sundays, between the first weekend in May and the last weekend of September Also catered events, private parties, even a romantic dinner for two. www.monkeyinthegarden.com.

Fresh Seafood Market

& delicious eat-in or take-away fish n’ chips.

Two great locations to serve you better.

West Kelowna - Governors Market

2231 Louie Drive - 250-768-3474 (FISH)

Penticton - Apple Plaza

150-1848 Main St. - 250-492-3474 (FISH) www.buythesea.ca

When Bernard Casavant joined the culinary world, Canada’s fine dining establishments were dominated exclusively by European chefs and cuisine Local and fresh were seen as expensive fads and fine dining Canadian cuisine? Today, he is recognized as one of the pioneer chefs who received their culinar y education and training in Canada, challenged the European only executive chef status quo, and helped achieve a Canadian culinary identity grounded in dishes inspired by local and regional produce

His greatest culinary influence was his beloved grandmother, Nellie Watts, who as a child taught him to cook, clean, and set the table Her welcoming philosophy of there is always room at the table, just pull up another chair has been a life long mantra for Casavant.

After the realization that a professional soccer career was unlikely, he chose cooking as his career path and graduated in 1976 from the Culinary Arts Program at Malaspina College with the distinction of “most outstanding student’ He was the first West Coast Canadian trained chef to achieve a chef title at an international hotel fine dining restau rant, and in 1986 attained the Canadian Certified Chef de Cuisine Certification, the highest possible level for Canadian culinary excellence Chosen as the executive chef for the Canadian Club for Expo’86, he dazzled foreign dignitaries and celebrities including

Princess Diana, Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, and George Burns with his innovative use of local and regional dishes (revolutionary at the time) In 1991, Chef Bernard had the honor of representing Canada in France’s Bocuse d’Or competition, one of the world’s most serious culinary competitions.

Starting in 1989, Casavant helped make Whistler a true culinary destination, first as the executive chef for the newly built Chateau Whistler and later his own restaurant Chef Bernard’s Bistro A champion of the local food movement, he opened the doors for local produce especially from the Pemberton Valley, created Whistler’s first farmers market, and was a founding member of Farm Folk/City Folk

The perfection in every bite of a fateful pear plucked from a tree while on vacation in the Okanagan with his wife Bonnie and good friends Rod Butters and Audrey Surrao led to his moving to the Okanagan instead of retirement. First as executive chef at Burrowing Owl’s Sonora Room in Oliver and since 2009 at the Wild Apple Restaurant and Lounge in Kelowna The arrival of chef Bernard Casavant signaled the change in the Okanagan from “peaches and beaches” to a true wine and culinary destination

Amongst all the awards and achievements, Casavant’s true greatness can be seen in the love for both his family and extended culinary family His influence and mentorship to a younger generation of Canadian chefs cannot be measured. It is a love of the profession and mentoring to a third generation of Canadian chefs that keeps Casavant forever young and in the kitchen. Wild Apple Restaurant and Lounge is a must when in the Okanagan for both wine inspired cuisine and the opportunity to eat the influence of a Canadian legend

Bernard Casavant helped change the Okanagan from “peaches and beaches” to a true wine and culinary destination Known in the culinary world, as Chef Bernard, some of the chefs he has mentored and inspired include Michael Noble, Chris Mills, Brody White, Andrew Springet, Jeffrey Jordan, Rachael Kompass, Michael Kompass, Lee Cooper, Trevor Jackson, Tim May, Ray Henry, Greg Hook, Peter Zambri, John Clark, Mel O’Brien. And currently in the Okanagan Chris VanHooydonk (Burrowing Owl), Jeff Van Geest (Miradoro at Tinhorn Creek) Rob Cordonier and Brent Pillon (Hillside Bistro), Jenna Angle (Local Lounge) Rod Butters (RauDZ), Geoffry Couper (Okanagan College of Arts), Robyn Sigurdson and all of the chefs currently at Wild Apple Restaurant