Chefs Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
We welcome chefs from across the country visiting Vancouver Island for the Canadian Chefs Congress
The Atrium Four . . . . . . . . . .24 Adrien Sala sits down with four local businesses to talk about the move.
Local Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
The Menu: Friday night dinner with friends
Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
DRINK Online . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Craft Beer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Eco Wines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Wine & Terroir . . . . . . . . . . .44
The Mixologist . . . . . . . . . . .46
Concierge Desk . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Epicure At Large . . . . . . . . . . .9
Dining Trends . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Get Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Good for You . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Food Matters . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Restaurant Repor ter . . . . . . 14
Local Food Hero . . . . . . . . . . 19
Master Chef . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Travel + Food . . . . . . . . . . . .30
News from Victoria, Vancouver, Nanaimo, The Okanagan & The Comox Valley . . . . . . . . . . . .34
COVER: Autumn Dinner: Recipes begin on page 29.
Photo by Michael Tourigny, Styled by Jennifer Danter.
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Editor in Chief G ary Hynes
Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman, Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg Editorial Assistant/Web Editor Rebecca Baugniet
Comox Valley: Hans Peter Meyer, Tofino | Uclulet: Jen Dar t, Vancouver: Julie Pegg, Okanagan: Jennifer Schell, Victoria Rebecca Baugniet
Contributors Larry Arnold, Michelle Bouffard, Maryanne Carmack, Jennifer Danter, Jen Dar t, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Holland Gidney, Laurie Guy, Mara Jernigan, Tracey Kusiewicz, Kathryn Kusyszyn, Anya Levykh, Ceara Lornie, Sherri Mar tin, Rhona McAdam, Kathryn McAree, Sandra McKenzie, Michaela Morris, Colin Newell, Janet Nicol, Julie Pegg, Genevieve Laplante, Karen Platt, Treve Ring, Solomon Siegel, Elizabeth Smyth, Adem Tepedelen, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman
FO R CONTR I BUTO R B IOS GO TO WWW.EATMAGAZI N E.CA/CONTRI BUTORS
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Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No par t of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher Although every effor t is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the ar ticles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher Pacific Island Gourmet reser ves the right to refuse any adver tisement. All rights reser ved.
Every week a batch of Hollie Wood’s fresh Satori oysters makes its 100 mile journey from Denman Island to the Marina Restaurant. And every week we send any extra oysters back to be re-seeded. Nothing wasted, unbelievably fresh. Just one of the stories that make up our plates each day.
Front row:
Sol Kinnis and Lisa, City Har vest $1 315 00 for green house
David Mincey, Camille’s & ICC Member
*I just picked up the latest E AT by recommendation of my friend and lo! The promised ar ticle What a lovely feature to have and so useful I've made copies of it and have posted it indiscriminately around my workplace Keep on making a lovely magazine Clinking forks and glasses, Tina
*Your last issue had a fantastic ar ticle on locally available meats, and issue which is dear to me and I was thrilled to see included in your publication. I was however disap pointed to see that the Quadra Village Halal butcher was missed in your over view I live
Funds Raised from Defending Our Backyard go to six local farms
Second row:
Wendy and Darren Montana, West Wind Farm $2,075 89 for irrigation cistern
Patrick Miller, ICC market coordinator
Jana McLaughlin, Rare Ear th Organic Farm $1,379 for green house
Brock and Heather McLeod, Makaria Farms $2,267 25 for transplanter
Ken Nakano, Empress Hotel & ICC Member
Heather Robinson and Naomi, Halibur ton Farms $695 61 green house
Missing: Sylvia Hancock, Holly Hill Farm $2,267.25 for tractor)
and work in Quadra Village, and am always thrilled to have access to the delicious qual ity local, ethical meat that comes from this stellar establishment Thank you so much for shedding some light on this often difficult to navigate sector of our island's food industry, and I look forward to seeing more!
Simon N Ayo
*I tried calling the restaurant Ayo in Market Square in Victoria and the number didn't work We went anyways and noticed it was a typo in the magazine it should be (250)
590 4231
Aliza H
With har vest season in full swing and farmers markets bursting with sun ripened tomatoes, there’s no better time than now to take a fresh look at local food and sustainable agriculture Using large scale photographs Home Grown introduces visitors to the people behind local food. From an inner city Italian backyard gar dener, Ennio, to an aerial view of an industrial scale organic hothouse, the exhibit play homage to sustainable farming. Visitors will receive an insight into alternative styles of growing food like house lot farming and farming co ops, and enjoy the many photos of community gardeners from across the city Photographer Brian Harris takes us to the city’s rooftops, snapping a bee keeper as he tentatively lifts a tray of bees from a hive atop a skyscraper, and to the new con vention centre’s living roof Aug 26 Jan 2, 2011 (www museumofvancouver ca)
Table Talk is a Plenty Epicurean Pantry/Share Organics co hosted event that takes place the first Wednesday of each month, after hours, from 7PM 9PM at Plenty Epicurean Pantry (1034 For t Street). These demonstration/interactive sessions are an oppor tunity to sample wonder ful food and engage in discussion based on the NW Ear th Institutes Menu for the Future guide Plenty's website www epicureanpantry ca for details $25 for the Menu for the Future text
SA ANICH FAIR
Do not miss the biggest agricultural fair on the southern tip of Vancouver Island This event provides lots of fun for the whole family From farm animal judging, equestrian events, plough ing match, arts and crafts competitions, produce vendors to the ever popular midway, you will be enter tained from morning until dark Sept 4 6 (www.saanichfair.ca)
The Great Canadian Beer Festival has become one of the worlds' must attend beer events. People from all over the globe seek out Victoria and the GCBF every year; the event attracts brewers from Australia, volunteers from England and beer lovers from all over. In suppor t of C Fax Santa's Anonymous, the GCBF will be held Sep tember 10th 11th, 2010 (www gcbf com)
Canadian Organic Growers Vancouver Island Chapter meets monthly every third Thursday of the month at Halibur ton Farm, 741 Halibur ton Road, Victoria Thursday, September 16th, 7 pm 8pm (www halibur tonfarm org)
Every September, some of the best cooks in the city gather, showcasing their culinary skill Local performers including musicians, singers, dancers & comedians display their talents on stage while the local brewmeister from Fernie Brewery, along with a sommelier or two, provide refreshments. Fri Sept 17 Sat Sept 18, 2010 at CP Station Square, Fernie, BC.
The 6th Annual Wine and Culinary Festival will take place Saturday, September 18th Sunday
September 19th The Festival offers an assor t ment of the area’s best wines and ciders, unique farm fresh delights from organic farms, green Ear th seminars, and hand blown glassware During the festival, purple ‘wine route’ roadside signs will make it easy to find participating prop er ties All the exquisite festival locations will offer at least one complimentary activity or tasting. To download a map of the par ticipating venues and for more information, visit www.wines.cowichan.net .
Saturday September 18th, from 6pm 7pm, the Saanich Fairgrounds will host the Peninsula Har vest Supper, a family oriented and delicious celebration of local har vests, local producers and local processors For more information, contact rlthompson@shaw ca
Sunday
19th,
will be speak ing about each
and will be available to answer questions. Please join us for a special evening filled with quality local food and some of the best wine the Cowichan Valley has to offer Takes place at the Satellite Bar & Grille at Arbutus Ridge Golf Club, in Cobble Hill on Van couver Island (250) 743 5100
The sixth annual ChefmeetsGrape event brings quintessential BC cuisine together with new, fall releases from the Wines of British Columbia, with more than for ty B C VQA wineries repre sented The chefs in this year’s event will again compete for both “Peoples Choice” and “Judges Choice” honours, as they create appetizer sized por tions of a dish using BC ingredients, paired with a selected B C VQA wine. Thurs, Sept 23, 2010 from 7 to 9:30 pm, Vancouver Convention Centre West, 1005 Canada Place, Vancouver. Tickets: $80, with $5 from each ticket sold going to the Ocean Wise program at the Vancouver Aquarium (www winebc com)
Saturday September 25th 11 3 @ OTTAVIO Ital ian Bakery & Delicatessen 2272 Oak Bay Av enue 250 592 4080 Highlights include Beer Tasting, Mustard
MADRONA
III
Come celebrate the protection of Madrona Farm and the community’s dedication to sav ing local farmland At this fun, catered event watch the city’s finest chefs go head to head through a challenging obstacle course, pick ing the vegetables they need to create their masterpieces Bid on your favourite plate and enjoy the afternoon festivities. Proceeds will go towards TLC’s Agricultural Program with 10% going to the Island Chef Collaborative 12:00 5:00pm, Sunday, October 3. Tickets are $75 at the Madrona farm gate Wed Sat, 11 am to 2 pm or online http://madronafarm com
September 26th, Spirit Square (Centennial Square) will be home to local farmers, chefs and food security champions EAT H E R E NOW! is to be a free, family friendly har vest festival With a farmers market, farm animals, corn boil, pig roast and local restaurants demonstrating how they put regional produce to best use, the Har vest Fest promises to offer an accessible taste of all that a permanent market could offer down town Victoria Go to their website at victoriaci typublicmarket wordpress com
This festival is an experience for all who love fabulous wine accompanied by great food and unique events Autumn in Okanagan wine coun try is the perfect time to watch the grapes ripen in the sun and indulge in the har vest celebra tions This is the only wine festival in Nor th America that takes place during the hear t of grape har vest. During this festival, experience vineyard tours, lunches, dinners, events & the fall wine harvest there is no better way to visit Okanagan wine country. Friday, Oct 1 Sun Oct 10, Kelowna, BC (www thewinefestivals com)
The Naramata Bench presents Rootstock' 2010 Two days of wine & enter tainment Naramata style Wineries along the Naramata Bench offer their Fall releases along with an eclectic blend of roving ar tists, dance troupes & performing ar tists on the two Saturdays of the Fall Wine Festival Visit the website for details of this movable feast for the eyes, ears & palate one of the most uniquely enter taining events of the Fall Wine Festival! Sat Oct 2 and Sat Oct 9, 2010. (www.naramatabench.com)
Where else do you have over 350 different apple varieties being grown organically? Salt Spring's apple history dates back to 1860. Activities include a display of hundreds of apples all grown organically on Salt Spring Island, a tast ing of more than 100 apple varieties at just one farm (Apple Luscious) and at least 12 labeled varieties of apple pies baked by the Pie Ladies Sunday, Oct 3rd, from 9am 5pm www appleluscious com
Monday, October 4th, join us Hester Creek Es tate Winery for one of the highlights of the Fall Wine Festival Our annual Celebrity Chef Dinner celebrates the ar t of pairing exquisitely pre pared regional cuisine with our award winning wines Non refundable payment required at time of booking. Tickets at $150 include wine,
taxes
Create delicious, healthy cuisine with local and seasonal ingredients Using the generously stocked Hollyhock kitchen as your palette, ex plore and prepare West Coast and internation ally inspired meals Focus on primarily vegetarian meals, using unrefined ingredients from the garden, the orchard, and the sea. Dis cover how cooking delicious and inspired meals can be an incredible creative outlet that is both nourishing and nur turing. Offered as a blend of lectures, discussion, and hands on cooking classes, Explore the conscious and creative eat ing that is the hallmark of the Hollyhock kitchen
Learn how your daily diet can impact your en ergy, mood, and overall health Tour the organic garden and take a field trip to nearby Linnaea Farm Welcome to foodies of all experience levels Oct 6th 10th (www hollyhock ca)
The Art of the Cocktail is a special weekend long event fundraiser for the Victoria Film Festival
On Saturday October 16th, from 7:00 10:00pm The Grand Cocktail Tasting offers an around the world spirited adventure unlike any other, fea turing flavors to stimulate your palate and set your taste buds soaring. Experience the finest spirits transformed into delectable cocktails by distinguished bar tenders and global brand am bassadors Oct 16 18, 2010 (www ar tofthe cocktail ca)
The Sidney Pier Hotel & Spa is bringing the Wild West back to the Peninsula! On October 16, 2010 the ‘Wild West Roadshow’ will take place at the Viscount Hangar, featuring internationally acclaimed and Juno award winning musician Jim Cuddy of Blue Rodeo Tickets are $150 and include a full gourmet BBQ dinner, drink ticket, live enter tainment all evening and the chance to win some great prizes Help raise funds for the Saanich Peninsula Hospital Foundation. Visit www.wildwestroadshow.com for more in formation and tickets
13TH ANNUAL TA STE OF OUR VALLEY Sun, Oct 17 enjoy award winning Similkameen appellation wines from the organic farming capital of Canada Food picked that day on your plate, warm, gracious hospitality, come and have a taste of the Valley Victory Hall, Keremeos, British Columbia (www.similkameencountry.org)
THE 18TH ANNUAL BITE OF NANAIMO
September 24th, 2010 from 4pm 9pm at the Beban Park Auditorium. The 18th Annual Bite of Nanaimo is a tasty fundraiser for TheatreOne. Tickets available. (www.theatreone.org).
On October 21st, some of Victoria's favourite dining establishments will be dimming the lights and dialing up the ambiance to raise awareness about energy conser vation and sim ple actions that can add up to make a big dif ference Restaurants will provide diners at the Candlelight Conservation Dinner with some spe cial offers Victoria details to follow closer to the event www tourismvancouver com/visitors/can dlelight
If you have a food or wine event you would like to see listed in the next issue of E AT, please email editor@eatmagazine ca and put Concierge Desk in the subject line
We love sharing our passion for tea. Explore tea history and tea culture by attending a traditional Tea Ceremony. Tantalize your taste buds with a visit to our Tea Tasting Bar. Take a Cooking with Tea class, learn about the the world of rare tea varietals.
We understand Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth likes a fruit bowl We also wonder what was pass ing through her head last June 17, when Heston Blumenthal, chef at England’s Fat Duck, served her a “fruit” bowl of sweetbreads, brains and testicles
Odd bodkins! The Queen with a mouthful of testicles? One is reluctant to offend the royal gut and has been since Henry VIII, who, finding a dinner disagreeable, had the hapless chef boiled alive be fore a cheering audience The French, who still insist the Brits boil everything and would have boiled, not burned, Joan of Arc must have rolled in the aisles Having sweetbreads and testicles roving her palate, Her Majesty was sure to discern they weren’t the same thing, as many suppose Sweetbreads, although one might have a ball consuming them, are not not testicles They’re the thymus gland or sometimes pancreas of a calf, lamb or pig George Washington could have told her that. Sweetbreads were the first American president’s favourite pie
The sublime gland stormed the White House kitchen again with the F DRs First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt was so fond of sweetbreads, Franklin D once complained he’d eaten them six times in one week
Sweetbreads are strictly suppor ting players in Hollywood, recently as Sweetbreads à la Gusteau with white fungus and a chili licorice sauce in Ratatouille. And in 2002’s Red Dragon, the fussily carnivorous Hannibal Lector ser ves a sweetbread ragout to dinner guests human sweetbreads, of course
Canadians have scant past with organ foods, but this could change with the current surge in an imal flesh Charcuterie is the rage in Vancouver Hot young chefs are rediscovering offal across the land Lamb shanks, pork belly and beef cheeks are giving way to a more radical tier of brains, ears, snouts, kidneys reeking of aged urine and tripe, reeking of something worse.
With a silken consistency and mild flavour, sweetbreads are the mildest and most agreeable gut of the lot They par tner with the grace of Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers with foie gras, truffles and wild mushrooms. They can be deep fried, pan seared, poached, baked, braised or barbecued. I’ve just been reading about sweetbreads confit, the delicate lobes cooked in duck fat And at Van couver’s Judas Goat Taberna, a sweetbreads saltimbocca is wrapped in prosciutto and sauced in sage beurre noir. Oh, dear.
In realms where puritanism trumps pleasure, the inhabitants don’t know what to make of sweet breads. Some years ago, after praising sweetbreads in the Globe and Mail, I received a reprimand from the Toronto Vegetarian Association “If you are an average meat eater,” it finger wagged, “you’ll consume precisely 12 cows, 29 hogs, 2 sheep, 37 turkeys, 984 chickens and 408 kilograms of fish (and a par tridge in a pear tree?) in your lifetime.” The quote was sufficiently loony to merit a place in John Rober t Columbo’s Famous Lasting Words, Great Canadian Quotations
Even without the harangue from true believers, sweetbreads have met up with much abuse, mostly from uncomprehending hacks whose kitchens turn them into nuggets of par ticleboard. Their fragility is such, only a loving hand can make them sing on the plate
We’re up for loving hands You’ll never see sweetbreads in a market, but our Thrifty Food’s butcher can get them for me, no problem. When you buy sweetbreads, they should be pale, pink, plump, soft and moist Settle for nothing less
Don’t be put off by sweetbreads in the raw For sure, they won’t be winning any beauty contests My preferred punishment for B.C. politicians would be a whack in the chops with an armload of untrimmed sweetbreads
Nobody does sweetbreads like the French, so we subscribe to classic methods of prep We soak, wash, blanch, cool, hand trim and press until they’re white and firm. Then slice them into half inch thick medallions Taste as you go to avoid undercooking and overcooking
We can turn them into a satiny terrine, ser ve them as a warm salad, stuff them into vol au vent, pan fry them and sauce them every which way. CONT ’D On the next page
With a silken consistency and mild flavour, they’re the mildest and most agreeable offal of the lot.
With the trend in Vancouver restaurants leaning ever more towards the casual end of the dining spectrum, it seems apropos that diners and cafés should step up their game to deliver surprisingly fine food at down low prices. After all, is there anything more casual than a drippy burger lathered with processed cheese and a large chunk of ground? Take the case of the Wallflower Modern Diner, which opened its doors last year in the old Aurora Bistro space on Main Street. Sure, the menu here boasts an impressive selection of your typical breakfast combos, bennies and burgers, with the requisite onion rings and yam fries But mushroom bruschetta? Crab apple cakes? Meatloaf Wellington? A tomato boc concini salad ($10) is dressed with fresh basil, avocado, dill and syrupy balsamic vinegar A juicy, jumbo por tobello burger ($11) is paired with creamy goat cheese, and the crispy Cajun tofu sticks ($8) have just enough heat to cause a pleasant, slow burn on the buds Wallflower owners Lisa Hewlett and her husband, Matt, have also taken things one step fur ther by creating additional menus that are vegetarian/vegan friendly, as well as full of gluten free options for those with celiac diets.
Across town, on the cusp of the DTE S, Acme Café, which opened in the spring, has also taken a different approach to traditional diner fare. Think turkey brie panini with cranberry Grand Marnier sauce ($12), or a daily quiche that includes fresh soup and salad ($9 50) Wash it down with the retro Pop Shoppe pops in their cur vy glass bottles Or how about a bell pepper stuffed with shrimp risotto ($10)? Where Acme truly stands apar t, however, is in the pie depar tment A strawberry, walnut and cream cheese concoction really stood out on one visit, and you can also order whole pies to go with 24 hours’ notice There’s an em phasis on fresh ingredients, everything is baked in house, and the pies really are wor th a trip all on their own.
Practically around the corner in G astown is Everything Café, the most recent offspring of Irish Heather owner Sean Heather. On the surface, there doesn’t seem to be much that’s outstanding about this spot. Pastries, muffins, sandwiches … the fare seems pretty typi cal Until you look a little closer Then you star t to see influences from sister restaurant Judas Goat, like the beef brisket meatball sandwich topped with a large mound of pecorino romano Or the grilled cheese made with provolone, brie and caramelized onions And don’t forget all of the charcuterie that comes from big sister Salt
Of course, one cannot talk about diners with dining edge without mentioning The Temple ton. This granddaddy of diners in the Granville enter tainment district has been around for a handful of decades and was one of the first diners to deliver classic comfor t food with in novative and healthy twists. Still going strong, its vegan chili with focaccia and mixed or ganic greens ($9.50) is pretty spectacular. But the burgers and sandwiches made with free range, unmedicated or organic beef and poultry are the real draw I recently enjoyed the “B B B,” a cer tified organic beef burger ($13 50) with cheddar, bacon and barbecue sauce, sided with a creamy garlic mash The perfect combo of traditional and upscale, diner and fine dining, all on one very full plate
But, I want them the way I had them the first time, when they left me aglow with discovery at the long gone Toronto bistro La Chaumiere I know you can’t go back, not really, but I’m still on my knees, banging on the door.
I want golden brown, bite size morsels with a dizzying fragrance of butter and Madeira sauce I want them crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside I won’t give up And with a lit tle luck and a heap of time, our ugly duckling will emerge a gastro swan.
I love eating greens with ever y meal, so it was wonderful to be able to har vest them all summer from my garden A handful of chopped mustard greens, gai lan, collard greens, yu choy or kale sautéed in garlic would be delicious added to this scrump tious squash soup before ser ving. The spiciness of chorizo sausage would marry beautifully with the soup’s sweetness
Crumble two or three chorizo sausages and sauté in olive oil until completely cooked Add cooked sausage to hot soup just before ser ving
6 cups seeded 2 inch wide chunks butternut squash
Melted butter, for brushing
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp freshly ground white or black pepper
3 cups chicken or vegetable stock
4 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon minced ginger
4 ounces heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
2 3 chorizo sausages (optional)
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Brush the squash flesh with melted butter. Sea son the squash with salt and pepper. Place squash chunks on a baking pan, flesh side up, and roast 30 to 35 minutes or until the flesh is soft Cool slightly Scoop the flesh from the skin into a pot Add stock, honey and ginger Bring to a simmer Puree with a stick blender or cool and puree in a food processor Stir in heavy cream and return to a low simmer. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg.
If you grew tomatoes this summer, I’m sure you have plenty of green ones Try ser ving piping hot fried green tomatoes on top of the squash soup Ripe red tomatoes can also be used instead of green tomatoes
Smoked paprika is available in the spice aisle of most large supermarkets.
4 large, firm green tomatoes, cut into 1/2 inch thick slices
1 cup stone ground yellow cornmeal
1/2 tsp. smoked paprika
2 large eggs
1/2 cup vegetable oil
Season tomatoes with salt and pepper. Mix cornmeal and paprika in a bowl. Lightly beat eggs in another bowl Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat Dip tomato slices in egg, then dredge them in cornmeal Fry tomatoes in a single layer until golden brown, 3 minutes per side Drain on paper towels.
This gorgeous gourd possesses an affinity for a wide variety of cultures and cuisines.
Can a kid be a curmudgeon? I was when it came to pumpkin. Cinderella’s carriage was silly; I didn’t care for Peter Pumpkin Eater’s darker side; and I lacked completely the car v ing gene, so hacking into the gourd to ward off goblins posed little interest. As for pie, the only edible form of pumpkin I knew, I could take it or leave it.
Nearly 20 years passed for me to reach that pumpkin ah ha moment While mulling over the menu at Fiore D’Italia, San Francisco’s oldest Italian restaurant, located in Nor th Beach, a heavily accented voice snapped at my side, “You gotta have da pumpkin ravioli ” Who could have defied the seasoned waiter about whose generous waist was tied a crisp apron as white as his hair The ravioli were exquisite butter, browned to a sweet nuttiness driz zled over feather light pillows plumped with smooth orange flesh laced with parmegiano and garnished with crisped sage leaves. Two other pumpkin revelations made me a firm conver t pumpkin butter, a superb alternative to a passion for the peanut, and a Mexi can inspired soup spiked with cayenne, cumin, chilies and prettied up with a scattering of toasted pumpkin seeds (pepitas), avocado and fresh shrimp.
I began using pumpkin mostly in soups, but in other dishes as well that call for squash, preferring its depth of flavour and denser texture over other squashes Gradually I discov ered that the gorgeous gourd possesses an affinity for a wide variety of cultures and cuisines
In Gower, Wales, the locals make “Swp Pwmpen,” a hollowed out pumpkin filled with fresh cream, salt and pepper, and baked until its meat collapses into the cream The mix ture is scooped out of the shell, blended then returned to and ser ved from its pliable “bowl.” Germany’s Kuerbissupe kicks its pumpkin potage up with cloves, cinnamon stick and a bit of wine vinegar. Cypriots wrap a mixture of pumpkin, onion and real cinnamon (not cassia bark) in phyllo. South Asians curry the golden flesh with peanuts and coconut. And chutney made from pumpkin is a must for lamb West Indians mix pumpkin with ground meat, onion and spices to ser ve over rice
And then there are those mar vellous raviolis, a native dish of Lombardy (A far easier and very tasty recipe for pasta and pumpkin is to take a pound of each ingredient Cook pasta while you sauté cubes of pumpkin in butter, olive oil and chopped parsley Toss the two to gether with a little more butter and grated Parmesan.)
Closer to home, October’s chilly days beg for roasted pumpkin soup laced with American bourbon and dotted with crumbly smoky bacon, or New Orleans pumpkin, lamb and lima bean “stew” to warm the soul.
But only the French could sauté paper thin slices of Rouge Vif D’Etampes (Cinderella Pumpkin), a heritage variety, to ser ve with pan fried sole, preser ved lemons and Grand Cru Chablis
For years I resor ted to using good quality tinned (unspiced) pumpkin or purloining the flesh and seeds from friend’s Jack O’Lantern pumpkins Then it occurred to me If I could buy golden beets, heirloom tomatoes and purple carrots, there must be market gardeners or farms cultivating the interesting Rouge Vif D’Etampes (and the small sweet sugar pie va riety about which I had read wonders). As it happens, U BC Farm grows and markets both. And so it seems does Richmond Farms in the Lower Mainland and Providence and Abby Lane Farms in Duncan.
Shannon Farrell, owner of Shamrock Farm in Comox, took time out from making 53 jars of jam and cutting 150 lavender plants to answer my request for pumpkin particulars, phon ing me immediately Her passion for the gourd is palpable She explained how to roast pumpkin, including seeds (the trick is to not wash them Clean off string and flesh, drizzle with olive oil, put seeds on a parchment lined cookie sheet, sprinkle them with a bit of sea salt and bake them at 300°F until they are crunchy) She offered recipes for curried soups, pumpkin chocolate chip cookies (her sons’ favourite), and a grandmother’s pie. She also highly touted Dee Dee Stovel’s Pumpkin: A Super Food for All 12 Months of the Year (Storey Publishing, 2005) for recipes, including pumpkin butter and chutney. I can get down and dir ty in a pumpkin patch with the best of the kids now. (If only I had known Cinderella’s carriage was a Rouge Vif D’Etampes!) As to my car ving skills? They haven’t improved a whit
A repor t issued by the World Health Organization in 200 3 linked increased sugar consumption with cancer, diabetes and obesity More recent studies suggest over indul gence in the sweet stuff may also increase the risk for hear t disease and stroke. There’s good reason for Canadians to be concerned refined sugar consumption in Canada in creased from just over 37 kilograms per person in 1998 to nearly 45 kilograms in 2002. Quite simply, we are addicted to sugar because it makes things taste good Does this mean we have to sacrifice that divine sweet taste for the sake of our health? No. By sim ply avoiding sugar laden, processed foods and using the healthier sweeteners I’ve listed below, you can have your cake and eat it to.
Stevia, a plant native to Central and South America hails from the sunflower family The leaves have 30 45 times the sweetness of ordinary table sugar And an extract made from the leaves can be as much as 300 times sweeter than sugar! But unlike sugar, stevia is non caloric and has no deleterious effect on blood sugar levels In fact, in Brazil, stevia is approved as a treatment for diabetes. It is also reputed to aid digestion and lower blood pressure Sold as either an extract or a powder, Stevia can be used safely and effectively as a substitute for sugar in any of your recipes. I prefer to use the extract for liquids and custards and the powder for baked goods It is best to consult a stevia/sugar conversion char t (available on the net) before adapting your recipes. (Stevia is available in gro cery/health food stores )
Brown rice syrup is a gluten free, natural sweetener with the consistency of honey. It is made by cooking brown rice with a special enzyme preparation that breaks down the starches in the rice. The result is a smooth, delicately sweet liquid with a buttery caramel flavour that makes it an ideal choice for baking Because brown rice syrup consists of 50 percent complex carbohydrates, 45 percent maltose and 3 percent glucose, it does not cause rapid spikes in blood sugar the way table sugar does In addition, because it is made from brown rice it contains a number of impor tant nutrients like magnesium and zinc It is 20 percent less sweet than sugar however, so I add 1 1/4 cups for every cup of sugar I’m replacing in a recipe. Keep in mind this usually requires you to also add an extra quar ter the flour (Widely available in most health food stores )
Yacon syrup is a delicious sweetener derived from the tuberous roots of the yacon plant, a native of the Andes The syrup, pressed from the roots, has a dark brown colour and a bold sweet flavour reminiscent of molasses. While most other tubers store carbohydrates as starch, yacon stores carbohydrates as fructooligosacarrides (FOS) Because the body cannot process FOS, they pass through the system without leaving behind absorbable sugar compounds This makes yacon syrup a terrific alternative sweetener for diabetics FOS also act as prebiotics, which encourage the growth of good bacteria in the gut. In ad dition they enhance the absorption of B vitamins Yacon syrup contains ample amounts of potassium and antioxidants and has a very low glycemic index. Its rich flavour adds just the right amount of sweetness to plain yogur t or oatmeal Unfor tunately it is too costly for everyday baking. (Available at Lifestyle Markets and Whole Foods.)
This sweet golden liquid might just be everyone’s favourite sugar alternative Honey con tains an array of vitamins and minerals including small amounts of calcium, copper, niacin, potassium, riboflavin and zinc It is also rich in falconoid and phenolic acids that function as antioxidants in the body Preliminary research suggests some of these acids may help prevent colon cancer Recent studies have also revealed that honey enhances calcium ab sorption, promotes the growth of good bacteria in the intestines and boosts the immune system. And natural honey causes a significantly lower rise in blood sugar than sucrose (table sugar) It is delicious in muffins and cakes, salad dressings and any sauce requir ing a hint of sweetness. Due to honey’s extraordinary sweetness, use 2/3 to 1 in place of refined sugar Local producer Babe’s Honey offers many varieties, each with its own unique taste. Their Blueberry Blossom is my current muse in the kitchen.
At press time Ulla had just opened it doors so we thought it wouldn’t be fair to comment on the quality at this point However, we wanted to let readers know about Ulla and what they are hoping to achieve This is from the press release
Who are they? Ulla is owned and operated by Sahara Tamarin and Brad Holmes who moved to Victoria in 2009 after working in Vancouver: Brad with Feenie’s, West, Cibo, Aurora Bistro and Chow; Sahara at Aurora Bistro, Parkside, Lumiere, Chow and Cibo and since moving to Victoria she also worked at Brasserie L’Ecole
What are they? Ulla ser ves modern west coast food that features local ingredients, modern techniques and tradititonal flavours Ethically raised products are used whenever possible Dinner only is ser ved up in a warm, inviting and non pretentious atmosphere. Call it food for everyone.
Where are they? Ulla is located in Victoria’s Chinatown and is in a heritage building that formerly housed a Japanese restaurant. Hand made fir tables, including a beautiful communal table with seating for 8, exposed brick and tall arched windows are balanced with vibrant, large scale paintings. The 6 seat bar is nestled in its own alcove off to the side of the dining room and is topped with a beautiful piece of Cowichan fir. EAT staff
bread.
On another visit, we both had the Carbonara Linguini ($12) with shrimp, smoked bacon and peas which I’d describe as pedestrian
The menu is self described as “West Coast cuisine with ethnic twists” and favors “small plates”. They par ticipate in the Ocean Wise program (which means identifying sustainable seafood choices on the menu).
Over several weeks my guest and I made three visits both for lunch and for dinner One visit, I had the Tahition Tuna Salad ($15) 4oz seared rare, lemongrass encrusted albacore tuna filet ser ved with a wasabi aioli and a simple salad of baby greens dressed with a drizzle of sesame lime My guest chose from the 6 pizzas on offer and ordered the Spicy Capicola ($13.50) with sopressata salami, banana peppers and mozzarella, which she loved interestingly, the crust (and oval shape) was reminiscent of langos a fried Hungarian thin
In our last visit we tried the grilled Kobe (blended with regular ground) Beef Burgers that came with a side of a strongly flavoured, Fire Roasted Tomato Linguini but all in all was a pretty good burger
Brown’s is located in the tourist and business area of Victoria on east Douglas Street. It works for a quick bite and drink with the after work crowd. Hardly fine dining, but fun For us it was lively and affordable and we liked the friendly and energetic staff Two drinks, two entrees and a star ter came to $60 with tip and HST
Open from 10AM til late The wine list features plenty of California but also has a decent smatter ing of Okanagan Valley wines. Half the list is avail able in either a 6 or 9 oz. by the glass. Bottle prices average around $40. Colin Newell
Let’s talk about wontons, since they figure so prominently in this restaurant’s name. J & J Wonton Noodle House offers a soup with shrimp or pork wontons for $6 50 The broth, a stock of both seafood and meat, is clear and shimmering, and the wontons, made on site, are plump and meaty a far cry from the frozen versions you can get at Chinese grocery stores that often show up in other Chinese restaurants. There are also numerous noodle options. The Chinese Vegetable Chow Mein for $10.50 can suit vegetarians. It’s a colourful and generous platter heaped with guy lan, baby bok choi, red peppers, and unapologetic large slivers of garlic. Another dish that’s convenient if you’re eating on your own is Satay Beef Flank on Rice for $10 50 It’s an interesting mix of textures, with tender beef, juicy pineapple, and crisp water chestnuts and snow peas tossed in a roasted peanut curry sauce Two of their best sellers are sweet, sticky, and fun Honey Sesame Fried Chicken, at $12 95, is deep gold, and the bite size pieces suit little fingers as well as adult sized mouths. Also wor th a try is the garlic pork in a caramely sauce of brown sugar, vinegar, and soya, which perhaps sneaks above the budget line at $13.95, but would go well with the cheaper vegetarian dishes when you’re dining in a group. These are all lunch menu prices, which are very fair because the quality of the produce is high vegetables are uniformly fresh and free of blem ishes The restaurant is clean, and ser vice is fast and friendly, so it’s great for any kind of casual gathering
Nostalgie Restaurant | 3838 Cadboro Bay Rd, Victoria
250.590.5159
I have just had the best cabbage roll of my life, and that’s saying a lot considering that I’m half Ukrainian and was dragged every year to the annual Ukie Fest in Rochester, NY, to gorge on pierogis and other meat and starch products, and to watch my elderly relatives play Blackjack I was never sure how the latter fit into a cultural celebration of Ukrainianess, but I digress. Back to the cabbage roll. Owners Olga and Elena Romanova of Nostalgie Restaurant have added a twist to this classic of East Eu ropean cuisine they’re using a rich, cream based mushroom sauce to hold together the meat base of pork and beef, and it works. Two large cabbage rolls and by large
I mean two inches high and three inches wide cost $14.00. Two people sharing those and a green salad for $8.00 would have a budget meal. The mushroom sauce reap pears in the blinis, or crepes, stuffed with potato, mushroom, and ham, for only $11.85. Another very tasty dish was the Siberian pilmeney for $12.50, very flavourful meatballs wrapped in dumpling wrappers. Let’s be frank they were wontons. The Russian version granted, and maybe they invented them first, I don’t know, but it was a great bowl of wontons, and very child accessible because of their size Do try the Am brosia for desser t It’s not Russian necessarily, but it is the invention of the owner Olga’s grandmother, and is a delicious confection of buttercream, walnuts, ground biscuits and whipped cream. Please note that all these prices were for the lunch menu. In turns of décor, you’ll have to be stoic about the cold entrance and characterless front room. Proceed on down to the back room, keeping your gaze fixed and forward; there, in the back room is a more gracious space that the owners have worked hard on warming up with table linens and tapestry cur tains The owners are planning a lunch combo soon of a soup, salad, and main If I were up the road at UVic, I’d be tak ing note
Lunch at Bon Rouge is a chance to escape the office or the hustle and bustle of shopping, and retreat to a peaceful and elegant oasis, choosing between the sun dappled patio or the more opulent French interior. Lunch is definitely the time to go to get considerable savings compared to dinner. The Roasted Vegetable Salad for $11 reminds me of a gorgeous bouquet of flowers. At the top is a profusion of baby greens, crowning a base of roasted yellow beets, carrots, broccoli and onion Nes tled on the side are candied walnuts and plump, fresh cranberries It’s almost a shame to dismantle the structure Two different dressings grace two different par ts of the salad: a light, lemony dressing is over the top, and encircling the base is a very so phisticated pumpkin vinaigrette I’d ask for my salad to just have this vinaigrette, it’s so good. The other star was a daily feature that I hope will return for many more days. The Soupe Normande for $12 is an elegant chowder with a base of local Sea Cider, cream, and slivers of bacon. In it swim mussels and chunks of salmon, with a cen terpiece of wilted Swiss Chard I appreciate this last addition, because when I’m get ting a quick one dish lunch, I like to feel vir tuous and know I’ve had some vegetables The Farmer’s Benny for $12 is more fun than classic; I like how it’s ser ved on rosti, a potato pancake, and the dry, spicy local Italian sausage adds a kick. New on the menu are lunch specials for $10 you can’t get more budget than that, especially consid ering that you get lovely surroundings to boot. My Sole and Frites with Green Beans Amandine, the Wednesday special, passed the balanced meal test, but the simplic ity veered toward boring for me Other days’ lunch specials include Beef Bourguignon and Coq au Vin I will definitely be back to check those out
Things are looking up for the street car ts on Cook St. The plan for a permanent outdoor food cour t has been approved by city council, and landscaping plans are well underway. One of the new additions to the outdoor dining room is West Coast Waffles. Intended as the satellite for a walk in location downtown on Broad St , the car t ended up opening ahead of its flagship in early July With a choice of batters made from free range eggs and organic wheat, buckwheat or spelt flour, each waffle is made to order Sweet and savoury waffles are on offer, as well as freshly brewed Salt Spring Coffee Across town, on the corner of Yates and Wharf St , you will find another option for tasty street fare The Puer to Vallar ta Amigos ser ve up authentic Mexican food every weekday from 11am 3pm. Angelina and Antonio Espinoza ran a successful cyber café (Taconet) in Puer to Vallar ta before moving nor th seven years ago for their sons, Shankara and Ramesh, to pursue higher education. The deluxe car t, acquired earlier this year, is equipped with a full kitchen, refrigerated drinks counter and a hand washing station for customers. If you think you may have spotted them in another location, it is highly likely with their inter municipal business permit, the family has been touring the island, ser ving food at various festivals and events such as the Providence Farm Fundraiser and the Symphony Splash Their regular menu offers a selection of tacos, tor tas (sandwiches) ser ved on eight grain bread, quesadillas and a combo option with a choice of chicken, beef, beans and cheese, ser ved with corn tor tillas, Mexican rice and fresh avocado salsa. Prices range from $5.99 $7.99. The family also plans to introduce daily specials in the coming weeks, with re gional Mexican specialties such as mole and enchiladas. While Antonio told me the whole family is vegetarian, he says they “offer the best of both worlds”, wanting to provide Vic torians with a taste of their culinary culture, while sourcing local meats and produce wher ever possible Good news for the lunch crowd finding healthy and affordable fast food just got a little bit easier Rebecca Baugniet
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Local Food Harvest Festival in Support of Downtown Public Market Organized by the Victoria Downtown Public Market Society.
Free, family-friendly local harvest festival featuring LOCAL farmers market; buck-a-bite tastings from amazing restaurants that support local agriculture; beer, wine and cider tastings; kids area hosted by Lifecycles Project and the Compost Education Center; local musicians and DJs.
PARTICIPANTS INCLUDE: Island Chefs Collaborative | 2% Jazz | Sooke Harbour House | Foo Asian Street Food | Bliss | Ottavio’s Italian Bakery and Delicatessen | Lifecycles Project | Puerto Vallarta Amigos | Smoken Bones Cookshack | Silk Road | Bean Around the World | Mile O Coffee | The Village Butcher | Canoe Restaurant/Truffles Catering | Kildara Farm | The Compost Education Center | Madrona Farm | Saanich Organics | Ambrosio Markets & Wholesale | and many more…
e s u o r u o r a e o o y r e k a B n a i l a t I s ’ o i v a t t O s o g i m A a t r a l l a V o t r e u P d l r o W e h t d n u o r A n a e B f f u r T / t n a r u a t s e R e o n a C C n o i t a c u d E t s o p m o C e h T e l o h W & s t e k r a M o i s o r b m A t u o k c e h c s l i a t e d r o F w.V www.V
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Organized by the Victoria Downtown Public Market Society. All proceeds will go towards the establishment of a public produce market in downtown Victoria. Sponsored by Eat Magazine and the City of Victoria.
s t c e j o r P s d a o R k l i S r e h c t u B e m r a F s c i n a g r O h tHereNow@
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o o e e r n a s o o e l c y c e f i L n e s s e t a c i l e D d n a k c a h s k o o C s e n o B n e k o m S g a l l i V e h T e e f f o C O e l i M a r a d l i K g n i r e t a C s e l Make your reservation now! Call 250.655.9700
i a m e r o Ea fresh flavours, casual comfort, genuine service slurp it, sip it, do it again
c i n a a S m r a F a n o r d a M r e t n e e r o m y n a m d n a e l a s ictoriaPublicMarket.com It’s a match made in heaven; fresh Vancouver Island oysters accompanied by sensational New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc! Throughout September sample our special hot and cold oyster dishes, paired with a selection of fine wines or other savory beverages.
Once upon a time, there was a permanent public market in the hear t of Victoria. Think of a place where you can stroll from stall to stall, chatting with local butchers and farmers, bakers and fishmongers From May to October, the market spills outside, with farm stalls boasting their freshest produce You know the names of the farmers, and when you make a purchase, it feels like you’re investing in a friend rather than for tifying a multinational cor poration From 1891 until its closure in 1959, the public market was a way of life in Victoria If you've lived in any number of other Canadian cities, this scene is not so hard to conjure up But if you haven't enjoyed the experience of a year round market before, this fall you'll have the chance to get a hint of what it could be like September 26th, Spirit Square (Centennial Square) will once again be home to local farm ers, chefs and food security champions EAT H E R E NOW! is going to be a free, family friendly har vest festival With a farmers market, farm animals, corn boil, pig roast and local restau rants demonstrating how they put regional produce to best use, the Har vest Fest promises to offer an accessible taste of all that a permanent market could offer downtown Victoria. The organization behind the Har vest Fest is the Victoria Downtown Public Market Society. Recently incorporated as a non profit, the society is spearheaded by Victoria City Councilor Philippe Lucas, with the suppor t of local food security activists such as Lee Fuge (Food Roots), Scott Kelley (HomeGrown Collective), Tim Treblecock (Moss St. Market) and business people like Andrew Moyer (Ottavio’s). As the project gains momentum, Councilor Lucas in vited the EAT editors over for lunch to explain his vision, though the food he ser ved offered up a little microcosm of the market mentality on its own A fresh homemade gazpacho made with local tomatoes and cucumbers, topped with chives from his own garden, was the re freshing star t to a leisurely meal that included baguette from Fol Epi, a selection of cheese and charcuterie from Chou Chou, and desser t from Wild Fire Bakery
One stop shopping that offers the best of local produce and meats is only one of the po tential benefits of a permanent market, yet it is by no means a novel idea in this city at tempts have been made in the past to re establish a permanent market without lasting success Councilor Lucas, however, brings an unwavering confidence and a wealth of ex perience, both in the political sphere and in business (he and his wife own Hip Baby on Lower Johnson) to the project He sees his role as facilitator, bringing the right people into the room to expedite the process The plans are ambitious, with hopes to incorporate a teaching kitchen as well as a rooftop garden, but Lucas appears undaunted, citing examples like Seattle’s Pike Place Market as a model that has successfully seen food security concerns expand to include social security, to the benefit of the downtown core and the economy. As another vocal suppor ter of the market, Trevor Walker (Plenty), expressed on his blog, “pub lic markets can provide an oppor tunity for people to rent a market stall and get into busi ness for much less than if they had to star t from a retail storefront.”
Lucas tries to tell us that his motives for taking on the project are selfish at the core: “at the end of the day, it’s about a putting better food on my plate”. If that food happens to sup por t local farmers and bolster sustainable food practices, well those are just a couple of the fringe benefits that a market has to offer
The Victoria Downtown Public Market Society is open to new membership If you would like to be involved, contact Philippe Lucas (phil@philippelucas com) for more information
Charles de G aulle was once quoted as saying, “How can anyone govern a nation that has 246 different kinds of cheese?” That said, it seems our provincial political leaders may have a similar problem as British Columbians have cer tainly close to that number of cheese offerings from our local ar tisan cheesemakers From Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands to the Fraser Valley, the Okanagan and the rest of the province, we are for tunate to have a great diversity of cheeses, everything from fresh quark and ricottas, to washed rinds, blue veins to hard and sharp varieties. And the diversity continues with the four legged creatures who provide the milk goats, sheep and heritage breed cows.
Long gone are the days of ser ving cheeses simply with a fruit plate. Many of our local cheeses are wonderful to cook with, whether for a savoury entrée or sweet desser t. These tantalizing cheese recipes use local ar tisan cheeses
Ser ves 6.
1 cup quark cheese, such as Hilar y’s Ar tisan Quark or The Farm House
3 large eggs, separated 2 1/2 Tbsp all purpose flour
1/8 tsp salt
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
1/8 tsp cream of tar tar
1/4 cup plus 1 Tbsp sugar, plus additional sugar for sprinkling Chunky blackberr y sauce or another fruit sauce or compote
Position a rack in the centre of the oven and preheat to 375°F Butter and sugar six 6 oz ramekins and place them on a baking sheet In a medium bowl, mix the quark, egg yolks, flour, salt and vanilla until blended Beat the egg whites with cream of tar tar with an electric mixer until soft peaks form when the beaters are lifted Gradu ally add the sugar, continuing to beat, until the whites are stiff but not dry Fold about one quar ter of the egg whites into the cheese mixture. Fold in the remaining egg whites. Divide the batter among the ramekins. Sprinkle the top of each soufflé with sugar. Bake the soufflés until they are puffed and slightly golden brown, about 15 minutes. Ser ve immediately, with sauce if desired.
Ser ves 4 to 6.
1 tsp butter, softened
2 Tbsp fine grated Parmesan
1 1/2 cups water
1 tsp olive oil
2 Tbsp fine corn meal
1 tsp Tabasco sauce
5 large eggs, separated
Preheat oven to 425°F.
3/4 to 1 cup blue cheese, cut into small dice, such as Moonstruck Beddis Blue or Poplar Grove’s Tiger Blue
1/2 tsp sea salt
Fresh ground black pepper, to taste 1/4 tsp cream of tar tar
1/4 cup grated Parmesan
Butter a 6 cup soufflé mould or small individual moulds, then dust with the 2 Tbsp parmesan Set aside
Bring the water and olive oil to a simmer over medium high heat Slowly stir in cornmeal and cook for about 10 minutes until the mixture has the consistency of a thick sauce Stir in Tabasco sauce Remove from heat and beat in egg yolks one at a time until well mixed Stir in blue cheese and season with salt and pepper
Beat egg whites with cream of tar tar until stiff peaks Fold in one quar ter of the egg whites carefully into the cornmeal mixture. Then fold the cornmeal mixture into the remaining egg whites. Spoon the mixture into the prepared soufflé dish 3/4 full and smooth the top. Sprinkle tops with the Parmesan cheese.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the soufflé is puffed, golden brown and firm. Ser ve immediately
Alternatively, transfer mixture to small individual 1 cup moulds and bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until golden brown and firm
The Pacific is one of Victoria’s best kept restaurant secrets and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. The freshest local fare is perfectly prepared by our expert kitchen, the ambiance is relaxed and menu selections are diverse. When you want delicious west coast cuisine, think The Pacific.
“I want to showcase a seafood product that is sustainable, local and not used commonly in the industry, so sardines it is! The fresh sardine fillet is dredged in local durum flour and Cowichan Bay sea salt, pan fried until golden brown and ser ved on toasted sliced baguette that has been rubbed with the cut half of an overripe saanich heirloom tomato I top it off with the best olive oil I have on hand and some more local sea salt Ridiculously simple and one of the best things I've ever eaten.”
Cory Pel an, La Piol a 250.388.4517
“Ling cod (which isn't actually cod but a greenling) only lives on the west coast from the Baja to Alaska and is most abundant in B.C. waters. We source it from Finest At Sea at almost any time of the year It has a delicate taste and a firm texture which makes it easy to cook with As for a vegetable, we pair the beignet with cubed roasted pumpkin, crispy sage and the chili jam ”
Jena Stewart & Alison Bigg, Devour 250.590.3231
“When I think of Vancouver Island I think spot prawns This dish showcases spot prawns as well as locally grown heritage pork. Brined Sloping Hills Farms pork tenderloin, cooked sous vide in butter and thyme, crusted in fennel seed, star anise and salt and pan roasted Ser ved on top of milk braised fennel, spot prawn bisque sauce, sauteed spot prawns, herbed bread crumb and Saanich Organics field grown pea shoot salad.”
Sam Chalmers, Bistro 28 250.598.2828
“Mother Nature inspires us as usual I will prepare herring roe on kelp (or kazunoko kombu as we call it in Japanese) for the Chefs’ Congress. Marinated in my secret sauce and ser ved with some of my special smoked albacore tuna, it’s an acquired taste and texture for sure, but it’s one of my fondest childhood flavour memories that I would like to share it with my fellow chefs ”
Ken Nak ano, The Fairmont Empress 250.384.8111
Breast of Forest Green Farm Muscovy Duck, Wild Ginger Root Marinade, Caramelized Camas Lily Cr oquettes, Mahonia Berry Demiglace and Grand Fir Gastrique
“With the exception of the duck, all the ingredients are plants native to B.C. and things that were widely used for hundreds of years by indigenous cooks in their dishes. For real authenticity go and catch yourself a Mallard, or better yet a Canada Goose
David Mincey, C amille’s 250 381 3433
Pine Mushr oom Vegetable Br oth with Nodding Onion Oil and Poached Skate Wing
“ The pine mushroom has a unique forest aroma and nodding onion is pungent and gives the soup a savoury note as well as vibrant green drops Skate wing is a underused fish which is curious considering how good it is All the ingredients speak to me of Vancouver Island as I first had them all here For me the island was and is an educational gastronomical adventure of discovery ”
Brock Windsor, Stone Soup Inn 250 749 3848
Locally Raised Bison Ribeye Wrapped in Bull Kelp on a Whole Grain Portofino Bakery Bun
“I have put a rustic First Nations spin on my dish. I wrap locally raised whole bison rib eyes in bull kelp leaves, then slowly spit roast the rib eyes over an open fire for eight hours. The kelp will add the necessary salt and protect the rib from scorching. Ser ved sliced on a whole grain Por tofino Bakery bun. This will be the perfect taste of what our island offers ” Garrett Schack, Vista 18 250 382 9258
Pan Roasted Fresh Swiftsure Halibut Filet w/ Local Organic Cherry Tomatoes, Vancouver Island Manila Clams & Fresh Basil and Fingerling Potatoes
“Halibut and clams are sustainable Halibut is fished a few kilometers from our restaurant's door and the clams are from Cooper’s Cove Oyster Farm in Sooke My spontaneous pairings usually happen during a walk through one of my green house grabbing a ripe tomato off the vine, cutting a few leaves of fresh basil, sprinkling bit of salt and popping it in my mouth!”
Markus Weil and, Markus’ Wharfside Restaurant 250.642.3596
Charbr oiled Sockeye Salmon Salad, Gold River Morels, Pattison Farms Organic Greens w/ Nature’s Way Farm Strawberries, Goat Cheese Walnut Cr ostini, Honeysuckle Syrup & Cider Press Apple Cider Vinaigrette
“Here in the Comox Valley, we are blessed; nature provides the foundation of our cooking Our First Nations ancestors named this region "Komok'way" which means ‘valley of plenty’ On Vancouver Island, our communities are embracing our culinary culture, and blossoming due to the hard work of local chef and food producers It is all about our local ingredients ”
Ronald St Pierre, Loc als Restaurant 250 338 6493
Sooke Hills Rainbow Tr out Confit, Braised Island Pork Belly and Savoy Cabbage Ragout and a Citrus Sea Ur chin “Salad”
“I slowly confit the trout in duck fat, lay that upon a six hour braised pulled pork belly in a ragout with locally grown savoy cabbage. I need acidity so I toss some orange and grapefruit with lobes of fresh sea urchin and place that atop the trout. Lots of flavors here and it suppor ts our Ocean Wise program and our local farms. P S Yes you can get oranges and grapefruits on Vancouver Island (but I won't tell) ”
Mike Weaver, Lure 250 360 5873
oc coli,
“Aquaculture is an industry with a split identity. Shellfish farming is low impact and something I can see growing and prospering on the West Coast. This dish is an island version of surf and turf, fresh broccoli from the garden and the most amazing scallops around from the shores of our beautiful island Elderberry is a sweet and sour treat, honeyed and floral with a nice tang on the finish ”
Bill Jones, Deerholme Farm 250 748 7450
Served on a Baked Sun Wing Farm Bell Pepper
“I cannot get enough of Sun Wing Farm veggies! The bell pepper is stuffed with cherry tomatoes, roasted shallots and Salt Spring Island feta cheese with sauteed local organic rainbow chard and a basil and mint pesto. A super simple and fresh taste of what Victoria and the islands have to offer.”
Anna Hunt, Paprik a Bistro 250.592.7424
Grilled Island Corn with Herbed Butters, Grilled Squashes with Romesco, Wild Mushr ooms with Hazelnut Pesto and Natural Pastures Parmadammer
“I have chosen to share in the bounty of vegetables at this wonderful transitional time of year because I love an underdog Corn, squash and mushrooms may not shine as bright as spot prawns or rack of lamb but they can be beautiful I will do my best to show the humble vegetable in all its glory ”
Lisa Ahier, Sobo 250 725 2341
“I use Savoury clams from up island. I prefer these clams to Manila as they are sweeter and have a cleaner after taste. I make the dish à la minute and without flour so the flavours are clean and light reflecting the freshness of the clams that go into it. Island bacon and potatoes will help showcase what the island has to offer Can't wait!”
Jeff Keenliside, Lucy’s in the Square 778 430 5829
Vee Dub Farm Grass Fed Sirloin Steak with Portobello Mushr oom Sauteed in Butter, Garlic and Herbs
“Our neighbours warmed our new home with a huge portobello mushroom picked from their bountiful front garden Sauteed with some butter, garlic and herbs from our own patch and poured on top of a thick grass fed beef sirloin steak from Vee Dub Farm in Metchosin, the result was unmistakable; cooking with love using these wonderfully cared for ingredients made a scrumptious harmony between senses and soul! ”
Ben Peterson, Heron Rock Bistro 250.383.1545
“ These express the wild, fresh flavours of Vancouver Island. This dish brings together all of our surroundings from the abundance of our sea for the salmon, the wildness of our beaches with the sea asparagus to the richness in our land for the fresh blackberries.”
Jonathan Frazier, Atl as Bistro 250.338.9839
by
It’s 8:30 p m on a Monday in July and a group of independent business owners have gathered inside the unfinished Atrium building (800 Yates) to talk shop and have their photos taken. Careful not to trip on exposed pipes, they navigate toward the building’s centre, pushing aside dusty air hoses and plastic sheets before coming to a stop in the middle of a seven storey atrium that will be the future home of their new projects. Waiting there is the photographer, who assembles them all on chairs brought in from their respective businesses for a collective shot, taken amid the chatter and banter of what ap pears to be a good group of friends
For several months now this has been a common scene The group regularly gets together to share ideas, goals and business wisdom But what is most interesting about this crowd is not that they have gathered late in the evening to rap about their individual projects it’s more the fact that they are each essentially in the same industry and could, therefore, be con sidered competitors. Separately they represent four hospitality businesses, and one might think that a good enough reason to not offer words of encouragement, discuss development concepts or share information on deals they’ve found on everything from flooring to chairs during construction of their new shared space.
But that’s exactly what’s happening here.
Star ting with Zambri’s and ending with A J’s Organic Cafe, the group’s legacy in Victoria weaves its way from established to emerging In the middle of the spread are Habit Coffee & Culture and Pig BBQ Joint, both of whom are opening additional locations, while the two former are closing the doors at their current ones and opening anew at The Atrium Together they make up a group of four foodie businesses on the ground floor.
“We had to make a move forward, not laterally,” says Peter Zambri, chef and co owner of Zambri’s, who were the first of the four to sign on as tenants. For the humble, yet award win ning restaurant that famously sur vived (actually thrived) for 11 years tucked away in the corner of a single level strip mall, it definitely is a move forward. The new space has serious mozza: three times the seating, a large patio, an in house pizza oven and triple the staff It’s no longer quite as unassuming and modest, but for tunately for the Zambris (and for us) what makes their restaurant so appealing is a combination of the family run element with the food and wine, all of which have easily been carried over into the new location
Next to put pen to paper was Habit Coffee & Culture For Habit, opening a second location in a brand new building was also a bold move. It was a depar ture from the rustic, hand built feeling of the first on lower Pandora. The new location is tightly made, with floor to ceiling windows and polished cement floors, arguably making it the slickest coffee shop in the city. But like Zambri’s, it was possible for owner Shane Devereaux to inflect a cer tain amount of the original aesthetic during the build and carry over the most impor tant elements, namely attitude and quality coffee (there are even repurposed wood counter tops and vintage record players, reminiscent of the first)
With two signed on, so began the collaboration and regular meetings where the soon to be tenants of The Atrium powwowed over design costs, funding and the like With a couple of independent businesses already committed, it wasn’t long before Pig BBQ Joint joined in For Pig, opening its third location, the move made sense. Transferring all the barbecue goodness and cheeky humour from its hole in the wall location on View Street (they’ve kept the space and are using it for what may become yet another success, Pig Dog an inexpen sive, but super tasty hot dog joint) meant a bigger profile and more space for people to sit. It also meant beer With jugs of local ales on tap, patio seating and an expanded menu, Pig has become a full fledged barbecue destination
“I just wanted a place where people could come and drink cheap beer and have good bar becue,” says Jeff Hetherington, the owner of Pig who is famous for smoking anything he can fit inside a barrel (smoked baloney anyone?)
Completing the four was A J’s Organic Catering, who stepped onto the foodie stage from moderate obscurity. Previously, A J’s made food in a kitchen in Vic West, then brought it all
over the city. It was a successful business, but now owner Alicia Davies has created a much more public profile. Opting for a name change, her business is now known as A J’s Organic Café, with a deli style bar ser ving sandwiches and salads made up of local ingredients, as well as home made cookies and treats And she continues with the catering from a large kitchen behind the counter
The fact that four successful foodie hangouts came together under one roof in the first place can largely be credited to the development company of The Atrium itself, Jawl Investment Cor poration, who wanted businesses that would benefit the surrounding community For Rob Jawl it meant declining offers from generic chain stores in favour of suppor ting independent restaurants and businesses they themselves enjoy
“ These people create a unique element in culture that is critical to Victoria,” says Jawl, who worked hard to bring the four together. For him, an intriguing and eclectic mix of Victoria eateries inside the building was a “no brainer.”
The building itself is essentially a reflection of the wants of many Victorians: green, local and sexy. The Atrium was designed and built to incredibly high environmental standards, and despite its size, its footprint is dramatically smaller than most similar projects in the city they’ve even got trees on the proper ty that clean rain water from the street before it heads
to sea In fact, it's so
that it’s almost an organism on its own The giant atrium actually breathes (captures and recycles) the air inside, creating a constant, comfor table temperature year round, reducing energy cooling costs and making it upward of 45 times more efficient than other buildings. The LE E D Gold building is carpeted on the top with a green roof and the whole project has the potential to dramatically revitalize the Blanshard Yates area.
But what does it all mean for the food scene in Victoria? More seats and places to find food, of course, but it also might signal a shift in the food community that has gradually been moving to a more collective, almost village style approach. Now when walking into a huge new development downtown, instead of battling through throngs of generic food cour t offerings, you can enjoy eateries with a face and a family behind them They can point you in the direction of their friends across the way, who will be happy to fill you in on all the good things the others are doing It creates an inclusive community where anyone can go relax and enjoy some of the best Victoria has to offer As for the group meetings, they still happen, often over food and wine “And whoever else signs a lease will be invited to join in if they want,” says Shane Devereaux.
A J's Organic Cafe
Suite #109 800 Yates Street 250.419.2179
7:30 AM to 5 PM (Mon Fri)
Habit Coffee & Culture 808 Yates Steet 250 294 1127
7 AM to 6 PM
Pig BBQ Joint
1325 Blanshard 250 381 4677
11 AM to 10 PM
Zambri’s
820 Yates Street 250 360 1171
11:30 to 3ish and 5 PM until late
out green‘But what does it all mean for the food scene in Victoria? More seats and places to find food, of course, but it also might signal a shift in the food community that has gradually been moving to a more collective, almost village-style approach.’
Har vest Potato, Turnip and Roasted Tomato Gratin
After a glorious summer of casual dining, it’s time to take it indoors and up the ante. Rabbit is a good place to star t it’s underrated, underused and always causes a stir. Sounds like the makings of a memorable dinner par ty. If you’ve mastered roasting a chicken, then rabbit is the next step. Flavourwise, it’s subtle and well suited to the roasting pan with aromatic herbs, lashings of butter and splashes of local wine Round out the meal with seasonal favourites from the market: sculptural squashes, freshly dug spuds, bouquets of sage and rosemary plus heritage baking apples and pears to prepare desser t.
The mellow mild flavour of rabbit cries out for fresh garden herbs and pairs well with sweet succulent squash This is an easy going recipe and is well suited to either white or red wine Plan to cook with the same wine you’ll drink at dinner Slater’s butcher carries local rabbit from Barlett Farm up near Durance Lake.
Makes 4 to 6 ser vings.
1 large squash (Tr y ambercup, autumn cup, acorn, buttercup or butternut or carnival)
1 head garlic
1/4 cup butter, melted
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 small bunch each rosemar y and sage
1 rabbit, cut into 6 pieces (tip: buy fr yer rabbit it’s a young rabbit that ways no more than 3/12 lbs)
Sea salt and pepper, to taste
2 Tbsp unbleached white flour
1 cup dr y white or red wine
2 cups chicken stock
Cut squash in half (don’t peel) and discard seeds. Cut halves into large chunks. Break garlic into cloves (leave in papery skins). Place all in a large roasting pan. Drizzle with half the butter and oil; add handfuls of herbs and toss to mix Roast in preheated 400F
Meanwhile, season rabbit with salt and pepper Coat a large frying pan with remaining butter and oil and set over medium high heat. Add rabbit pieces and cook until light golden, 3 to 4 min per side. Carefully place rabbit pieces in roasting pan with squash. Reduce heat to 375F and continue roasting until rabbit is cooked through and squash is tender, bout 40 minutes Rabbit is very lean and overcooking makes it tough If using a thermometer, the internal temperature should be 160F
(T I P: The saddle/loin pieces will cook faster than the legs. Take them out earlier to prevent overcooking)
Remove rabbit and squash to a platter and tent with foil to keep warm. Place roasting pan over medium heat. Stir flour into pan juices. Pour in wine, then scrape up and stir in bits from pan bottom Stir in stock and bring to a boil Simmer, stirring constantly, until sauce thickens, 4 to 6 minutes Pour through a sieve and discard herbs Refresh with chopped fresh rosemary or sage, if you wish.
This dish tastes best at room temperature And that’s good news when you need the oven to get the rest of dinner ready The longer it stands (within reason) the easier it is to cut since the spuds soak up all the creamy goodness. Make ahead and keep in a warm spot.
Makes 6 ser vings
2 to 3 tomatoes, sliced Olive oil 11/2 cups 35% cream 1 garlic clove, minced 1 large sprig fresh thyme
2 large potatoes, peeled, unpeeled 2 small turnips or 1/2 rutabaga, peeled Sea salt, to taste
Spread tomatoes out on a baking sheet lined with parch ment paper Brush with oil and bake in preheated 300F oven until shrivelled around edges, about 40 minutes. If making ahead, pack into a container and refrigerate overnight.
Meanwhile, in a saucepan, stir cream with garlic and thyme Bring almost to a boil, then remove from heat and let stand while prepping the veggies so flavours infuse Don’t strain
Using a sharp knife or a mandolin, thinly slice potatoes and turnips. Place in a bowl and season with salt. Toss to mix, as best you can.
Layer half the turnips and potatoes in a small buttered casserole or deep dish pie plate. Pour half the warm cream over top (let the garlic thyme fall where they may) Layer tomato slices over top, then cover with remaining turnip and potatoes Spoon remaining cream over top Using the back of a spoon, press down to ensure even distribution of cream. Place dish on a baking sheet to catch any spills.
Loosely cover with foil and bake in preheated 325F oven for 30 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking until tender, 30 to 40 more minutes Let stand at least 15 minutes before ser ving
Old World: Cotes du Rhone Rouge, France A GSM (Grenache Syrah Mour vèdre) from the Southern Rhone would suit, with its characteristic spice and ear thy ripe fruit New World: Washington State Syrah, USA Though better known for its Merlot, Washington Syrah is where it’s at Wild blackberry, ear thy Rainier cherry and rustic spice
The heady perfume of pears mixed with tar t crispness from apples makes this a dynamic desser t. Crushed hazelnuts and deep dark chocolate adds an unusual twist to the crumble top Treat yourself and use Organicfair chocolate try the purist 70% dark chocolate deliciousness
Makes 4 ser vings
3 ripe pears, such as Bar tlett or D’Anjou
2 apples, such as Bramely, Bell de Boskoop or the redfleshed Pink Parfait (Don’t forget about the Salt Spring Apple Festival in September)
1/3 cup local honey
Pinches of crushed fennel or anise seeds (optional)
1 cup unbleached white flour
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup finely chopped toasted hazelnuts (for ease, blitz in a food processor,)
1/2 cup chopped chocolate
1/4 cup cold butter, cut into cubes
Peel and core pears. Peel apples, if you wish, then core. Coarsely chop both Place in a bowl and toss with honey and fennel seeds (T I P: If pears aren’t super juicy, add about ¼ cup apple juice) Gently stir to mix, then divide between 4 large, oven proof coffee cups or ramekins Place on a baking sheet.
In a food processor, whirl flour with sugar, chopped hazelnuts and chocolate. Add butter and pulse to a sandy mixture. Generously mound over fruit.
Bake in preheated 350F oven until golden and bubbly, 30 to 35 minutes Dish up with vanilla ice cream and gar nish with fresh fennel fronds, if you wish
Old World: Tawny Por t, Por tugal. A well crafted tawny shows sweet nuttiness, citrus peel and warm, silky caramel notes
New World: Quails’ G ate Optima, BC This botrytis affected desser t wine shows baked pear, fig and citrus notes, with a swirling of honeycomb.
Friendly Maritimers welcome visitors to tour, taste and sample their way around this gentle island in the Atlantic.
Story and photography by Gary Hynes
be grown and produced locally to sustain its residents. Although agriculture is a challenge in PE I, as it is in most places, it is still a region where farms and fishing, rather than industry and development, predominate.
Flying in via Air Canada to Charlottetown, I set up in my comfy and well appointed base camp at the Great George, a historic boutique hotel in the middle of this capital city (pop. 30, 000). The flight from the west coast arrives just before midnight, and I had planned to just toddle off to bed. But the gracious night auditor opens the bar and brings out cookies and fresh scones (just baked for breakfast) as well as chilled bottles of Gahan’s Sir John A’s Honey Wheat Ale (made at the brewery just around the corner) A delicious welcoming committee that promises well for the days ahead
Morning is 8:00 a.m. sharp to sun and a crisp, cool autumn day. A day or two of jet lag adjustment might usually be necessary, but I hardly notice as I plow full on into Day 1 of Fall Flavours food events and shor t drives into the farm dotted countryside (what isn’t nearby on PE I?) You can pick and choose which events you’d like to attend or as I did join small groups so you don’t have to do all the driving yourself
Touring in PE I is a treat So many quiet roads crisscross rolling hills and give one access to numerous ocean views, red cliff vistas, bird filled river estuaries and dignified family farms While you wander, farm stands overflow with just picked fruits and vegetables and beckon you to pull over and stop. Why not? What’s the hurry anyway? You’re on Maritime time now.
First stop is Cow’s Creamer y, a cheesemaking facility known for its traditional Avonlea Clothbound Cheddar. Armand Bernard, cheesemaker, explains that this type of Cheddar has its roots in the Orkney Islands nor th of Scot land He uses only PE I milk from Holstein cows, and each cheese is wrapped in a gauze like, natural cotton (which keeps the cheese from drying out) and then aged on spruce slats for 12 months This process re sults in an ear thy, dense, creamy, crumbly cheese Bernard likes to make an Acadian dish using his clothbound Cheddar called rapure.
He lines a cast iron pan with back bacon, fills it with grated and mashed potatoes, then tops it with Avonlea Cheddar and bakes it until bubbly
Lunch is back in Charlottetown at the Pilot House for giant lobster club sandwiches, then its back out of the city to Green Gables Mussels, where I join a group and don gumboots and visit a working processing plant on the nor th shore of the island With the lilt of owner Lauretta Jollimore’s PE I accent in the air as she explains operations, I peer into a room full of people busy cleaning and packing more than 1,400 pounds per hour of the famous PE I mussels. These sought after mollusks appear on the best restaurant tables across the country. Did you know one of the main reasons the Confederation Bridge was built was to facilitate transpor tation of all those mussels to restaurants across Nor th America?
A trip to the east coast wouldn’t be complete without a bowl of milky seafood chowder, so I set my compass southwest toward Brehaut’s café, aim for lunch and plan some solo stops along the way. I head out of Charlottetown towards the ferry to Nova Scotia but make a right turn to call in on Seaweed Secrets and learn about gathering sea vegetables. The Gillis
family har vests dulse, nori and Irish moss (used in the making of beer, toothpaste and ice cream). Before getting back on to Shore Road, I stop for a photo op at the end of a small road that lazily peters out onto a breezy shoreline of tall sea grasses and the stately Prim Point Lighthouse.
Back on Shore Road I continue eastward, passing large farms overlooking the sea and along to Rossignol Winer y, PE I’s only winery First, I admire the vineyards that gently slope down to the Nor thumberland Strait, then step into the airy tasting room to sample the wines Rossignol is known for a variety of non grape wines such as maple, cranberry, blueberry and apple as well as a couple of grape wines I enjoy their Little Sands White, a pleasant bottle of early ripening Seyval Blanc grapes that produces a crisp and off dry wine well suited to the local seafood.
By now its time for lunch and, with a stomach growling with anticipation, I reach my chowder destination: Brehaut’s Take Out Restaurant in the seaside village of Murray Harbour (pronounced Mor y). It is everything I pine for quaint old building overlooking picturesque view and a milky chowder NOT thickened or creamy filled with haddock, mussel and lobster A pat of salted butter pools on the soup’s surface and a fresh baking powder biscuit sits on the side As I am leaving, I am hailed with a warm chorus of ‘byes from the foursome of ladies playing cards at a table in the corner
After driving a bit far ther up the coast to take in the colourful fall leaf show and a quick stop to buy some crisp and juicy Gravenstein apples, I scoot back to Charlottetown for tea and a nap. Rested, I join the group and set out for the Chef ’s G ala evening, a fundraiser for the PE I Chefs Association at Dalvay by the Sea, a resor t located inside the Prince Edward Island National Park. We are met with a crackling fire set in a huge fireplace to dispel the evening chill Readying ourselves for a great culinary show of force, we sip on French Champagne and admire the view out to the fragile sand dunes and a calm sea
The menu is haute and multi course, but the ambience is pure kitchen par ty. Guests are encouraged to go into the busy kitchen and watch the dozen or so chefs cook. Sur prisingly, there is no melee as chefs hurriedly cross paths with dinner guests Once a course is cooked, we troop back to our tables and the chef who prepared the course comes out of the kitchen to tell us, amid much laughter and joking, what’s on his plate It’s a relaxed, ca sual and fun evening far away in place and spirit from the big city hustle.
We eat hand picked, wild chanterelle mushrooms and wild thyme in a soup that is smooth and ear thy, a delicate and mildly sweet deep sea scallop ceviche boldly matched to a beef infused sweet potato purée, and a meticulous preparation called Maple Lacquered Local Pork Belly that belies its understated name On the plate there are no fewer than a dozen ingredients that accompany the pork, each ingredient a mini dish in itself There is radish confit, sweet and sour tomatoes, a spiced pumpkin purée, a bundling of braised island beef shor t ribs and chive potatoes, too all sauced with a cabernet molasses jus in fused with foie gras and truffle oil. An enormous tour de PE I. After that my memory goes dark and refuses to cooperate other than to note the sheet tossing dreams that came late that night as a result of all the pear, chocolate, ginger, port and cheese that came after that course.
Although rain and cloud filled, the day shows the promise of food Everywhere you go in PE I you find oysters in the shell Unbelievably fresh, shucked to order and tasting like the sea delicious Throw in an ice bucket filled with local beer and wines need I say more? Well, a little more I have tickets to the Fall Flavours Tong & Shuck oyster event and join my happy little band of fellow festival goers but along the way we stop first for, you guessed it, oysters. Someone in the van has recognized the owner of a local oyster pound standing by the side of the road. So, although the pound is closed, we stop. The gracious owner, one James Power of Raspberr y Point Oysters, is happy to tell us about his operation all the while generously shucking oysters and handing them round. We must have gone through half a peck (a peck = 100 lbs. more than enough for the six of us. Satiated, we climb into the car and soldier on up the road to the oyster event Tong and Shuck at Future Seafood turns out to be an interactive taste workshop and very hands on For the second day, we don gumboots and, following a path that meanders through an old cemetery (where everyone has the same family name), we arrive at the ocean’s edge and a small dory Two by two we get into the boat with our guide Erskine Lewis and pole out into Salutation Cove. We are shown how to manipulate the ridiculously long tongs to pick up small Rocky Bay bivalves between two and 16 feet down on the sandy bottom. A few of us get some. What we all get is how hard this backbreaking work is. Remarkably, there is still a large number of oyster tongers who earn their living this way. Then it’s back to the house where co owner Ted Boutilier shows us how to shuck and, yes, we eat more oysters! Did I mention with wine? We skip lunch (as if we needed one), refusing one merry prankster in our group who tried to lure us to a local diner for a deep fried oyster feast, and head for the Great George for what is quickly becoming the daily routine, an early afternoon nap
By dinner time I am once again hungry and walk over to a lively wine bar called Sims Corner. Sitting down at the long bar I notice a large bowl on the bar filled with crushed ice holding about half a dozen varieties of local oysters. With a glass of Rossignol White Sands in hand I work my way through the selection of Colville Bays, Lucky Limes, Pickle Points, Raspberry Points and Shiny Seas each with its particular combination of saltiness, iodine, crispness, colour, texture and mildness By now I’ve become a bit of an amateur exper t My favourites are the plump and almost perfectly round Luckies Dinner is grilled, PE I grass fed beef sirloin generously rubbed with a homemade spice mixture, a cheese and potato gratin and buttered whole baby beets and parsnips The wine is Isle Saint Jean Red
Charlottetown is home to the Culinar y Institute of Canada at Holland College and this morning, chef Michael Smith is giving a demo on breadmaking Seeing him in person, it’s easy to see why Smith has become one of Canada’s most popular celebrity chefs Smith’s likable and casual, down to ear th manner instantly charms the crowd as he tells stories of the making of his TV series Chef Abroad Smith lives on the nor theast shore of PE I with his family, where he spends many of his days cooking at home. Today, he shows us how to make a country loaf without kneading the dough. (Back home I try the no knead bread recipe from his Chef at Home cookbook and it works perfectly.) Smith sums up his culinary philosophy this way. “ The food with the most integrity has a time and a place, whether it is a simple home cooked bowl of chowder or a complicated molecular gastronomy dish.”
If there was ever any doubt that PE I is one big farm, it is completely dispelled on attending the downtown Charlottetown Farmers Market Locals and visitors alike wander along Queen Street buying fresh produce or stopping for a cob of boiled corn dripping with butter and a chat Everything from bushels of potatoes and apples to molasses breads and pasture raised beef is on display and if you have the time (who doesn’t on vacation?) every farmer is happy to talk about their food and their farm. Giving market day a festive air, a small stage has been erected and a tidy procession of lively fiddlers, callers and step dancers put on a show, the energetic music reverberating off the nearly 300 year old build ings.
For a final, farewell dinner our group make reser vations at one of PE I’s top restaurants, Lot 30 Here, rural charm gives way to big city sophistication in a spare, modern, industrial looking room and food that is precise and season focused Chef Gordon Bailey, formerly of the Inn at Bay For tune and Dayboat, cooks with island ingredients and uses plenty of seafood, local farm produce and his own charcuterie in a style that exper tly balances tech nique and presentation with delicious and accessible flavour forward dishes Ser vice is professional but “down home” casual as they say in eastern Canada. A favourite star ter is sea scallops seared rare with pistachio cream in a nage made with fall broccoli, and for a main course a thick, ear thy slice of Sheperd’s Farm crispy maple crusted, braised, local pork leg accompanied by fingerling potatoes and a natural pork jus.
A fine end to my visit to one of the friendliest and unpretentious foodie destinations in Canada
This year’s Fall Flavours takes place from September 3 30. For a complete schedule of events, go to www fallflavors ca PEI: The Details can be found on page 39
Early September rings in t he school year once again, but not just for children in Victoria UVic’s depar tment of Continuing Studies welcomes a number of prominent epicureans to their faculty for a fresh round of Sustainable Gastronomy courses Don Genova will teach two courses; Pick and Choose: Navigating Your Way to t he Greenest Food Choices and Exploring Local Foods, while Cher yl Br yce and Lorenzo Magzul of fer Indigenous People’s Food Systems: Creating Local and Global Sustainability David Mincey (Camille’s) is back with Chocolate Food of the Gods Other courses include Food Matters: The Future of Food on Vancouver Island and Drinking Locally: Hidden Winer ies of BC Visit www uvcs uvic ca and download t he course calendar for more information
Cooking classes around t he city have also announced t heir fall schedules, wit h an impressive range of international flavours on the menu French Mint (www frenchmint ca) fall classes include Mexican Pozolada, Rus tic Italian, and Sushi and Japanese Fundament als Chef Heidi Fink’ s (www chefheidifink com) September schedule boasts a series to get you cooking Thai at Home, while Chef Sonya Limberger of fers lessons in Vegetarian recipes from Africa and Vegetarian East Indian Cuisine t hrough October For complete class sc hedules and more information, visit t he Fair field Community Centre programs page (www fair fieldcommunity ca/programs) and the James Bay Community Centre website (www jamesbaycentre ca)
Most outdoor farmers markets wind down in late September or early October, but as we repor t on page 19, there is new reason to hope that a permanent downtown public market is in this city’s future Don’t miss EAT HERE NOW! t he free, family friendly har vest festival t hat will be taking place September 26th in Spirit Square (Centennial Square) The Har vest Fest aims to raise aware ness and funds towards t he re establishment of a permanent public market, and will be an excel lent occasion to connect with local farmers and food security activists who are working hard to make this dream a reality
Other ways to revel in t he har vest season include t he Saanic h Fair (www saanichfair ca), run ning from September 4th 6th, with farm animal judging and produce vendors along with the usual fair merriment The Saanich Fairgrounds will also be home to a Peninsula Har vest Dinner a family oriented feast honouring t he local har vests and t heir producers on Saturday, September 18t h The Vancouver Island Feas t of Fields is being held at Par r y Ba y Sheep Far m in Metchosin on Sunday, September 19th New par ticipants involved in this year ’ s event are, among ot hers, Stone Soup Inn, Broc k Windsor’ s (Sooke Harbour House, ICC) new inn and restau rant in t he Cowichan Valley (www stonesoupinn ca) and Ulla Restaurant (www ulla ca) which opened las t mont h on Fisg ard S t T ic ke ts are $85, and are a vailable online (www f eas t of fields.com). ...Wit h t he recent news t hat Madrona Farm has been saved and will remain in agricultural production forever, the Madrona Chef Sur vival Challenge III is a great way to cel ebrate t he fruits of ever yone ’ s labour The t heme this year is t he Quest for t he Golden Broccoli Watch t he city’s finest chefs go head to head t hrough a challenging obstacle course, picking t he vegetables they need to create t heir masterpieces Bid on your favourite plate and enjoy t he af ternoon festivities, Sunday, October 3rd from noon to 5 pm at Madrona Farm (4317 Blenkinsop Road) For your at home har ves t celebrations, remember to order your Island turkey early t his year to avoid disappointment Lifestyles Markets, Ambrosio’s, t he Niagara Grocer y, as well as Slaters and Island Meats and Seafood place special orders, so get on t heir lists early Look for out more extensive Local Turkey list on the EAT website at www EATMAGAZINE ca The Great Canadian Beer Festival, being held September 10t h and 11th at Victoria’s Royal Athletic Park , was already sold out at t he time t his issue went to press, but there are ot her occa sions that revel in the bubbly beverage, most notably Oktober fest, being celebrated at Ottavio’s, Saturday, September 26th from 11 am 3 pm There is also t he Ar t of the Coc ktail, t he Victo r ia Film Fes tival’s main fundraising event, whic h will t ake place from Saturday, October 16t h through to Monday, October 18th. Events will consist of workshops, tastings, the Pacific Nor thwest Bar t ender Com pe tition Present ed by EAT Mag azine and a Dinner wit h a Twis t Chec k www ar tof thecocktail ca for t he full event schedule and ticket information by Rebecca Baugniet
Former
No
to the world of chocolate,
have been well known chocolatiers in France for three generations Walking through the front doors of Sandrine’s, the dis play of handcraf ted chocolates, macaroons, cakes and other French delights will transpor t you to Paris Best of all, like in Paris, these bakers open shop early enough that we can enough their dy namite croissants in the morning! Doors open at 7:30 and for $4 95, you will get the per fect French breakfast : deux croissants avec café The quiche is also sold by the slice alongside some ver y tempt ing croissant sandwiches, bot h making for per fect takeaway lunch nosh Or, purchase an entire
Kelowna has recently become t he lucky por t
a new impor t company:
Olive Oil Mer c hant Teresa Kuhn, a BC native residing in Italy decided to launch her business af ter deciding to soon relocate her family to Canada She says that ”the idea of not having access to real ‘Made in Italy’ products terrified her " Already embraced by the chefs at Vancouver’s award winning Italian restaurant Cibo and La Quercia and locally at Mission Hill’s Terrace Restaurant and the Local Lounge and Grille in Summerland you too can add this key ingredient fresh from the groves of Italia to your home kitchen Products are available for mail order on their website: www oliveoilmer chant com
The 2010 Okanagan Feast of Fields will take place on Sunday August 22nd from 1 5pm at Broc k Farm in Okanagan Falls, one of the Okanagan’s award winning wine regions Right next to the famed Blue Mountain Winer y, guests are sure to enjoy at literal feast for the senses Tickets available at Choices Market in Kelowna or online at : www feastof fields com Joy Road Cat er ing continues to wow gues ts who att end t heir God’s Mount ain V ineyard dinners Chefs Dana and Cameron build their menus featuring the freshest, regional cuisine per fectly paired with Okanagan wines and ser ve them amongst the vines at a communal table Catch t he las t of t heir Winemaker Ser ies Sep t ember 9t h wit h f avor it e N aramat a winer y La Frenz www joyroadcatering com
For ten days in early October enjoy over 165 events throughout the valley which are focused on wine, food, education and the ar ts The Okanagan Fall Wine Festival runs from October 1st to the 10th www thewinefestivals com Book one of the amazing wine festival dinners at Naramata’s stunning Heritage Inn This romantic Inn and spa of fers up old world charm in a spectacular wine countr y setting Featured dinners prepared by in house Chef Thomas Render:
Blue Mountain Vineyard “Pinot & Truf fles” Friday, October 1, 2010
Joie Farm Winer y “100% Okanagan Dinner” Saturday, October 2, 2010 La Frenz Winer y “Jef f's 40th Vintage Celebration” Friday, October 8, 2010
Kettle Valley Winer y “Bob & Tim vs The World!” Saturday, October 9, 2010 Bring t he family and watc h t he red coloured kokanee salmon spawn in Mission Creek at The Kokanee Salmon Festival on Sunday, September 19, 2010 This Festival was created to help pro mote the long term health of our fish populations and to assist in fisheries recover y The event helps to raise public awareness of fish and watershed health and ensure a positive future for British Co lumbia’s fish populations Mission Creek Regional Park (2363A Springfield Road) 250 469 8688
by Jennifer Scxhell PigottInnis & Gunn oak aged beers took the beer drinker to cask this summer Brewed in limited amounts to celebrate the Maple Leaf I & G’s Canadian Cask Ale is aged in whiskey barrels. Mellow, roasty wit h nuances of dried fruit peel per fect for sipping grill side Scout out shops for remaining bot tles Cask Ale is well suited to a brined Thanksgiving bird Ot her wise keep a look out for next sum mer ’ s supply In better quantity is Innis & Gunn Original, a crisp, creamy, fruity ale t hat begs for battered halibut, hand cut chips and a lashing of top notch malt vinegar (Look for Sarson’s Malt V ineg ar at Br itish specialty pur veyors or order on line at www.amazon.com and www abitofhome ca)
L’Abbatoir (217 Carrall St 604 568 1701, www labattoir ca) stepped into t he vacated Irish Heather (Heather’s new digs are directly across the street) site, undergoing a complete makeover, before “coming out” to positive reviews Exposed brick and floor to ceiling French windows, and t hir ty foot long drif twood “chandelier” in t he atrium are smashing Head bar guy Shaun Layton muddles a mean cocktail Madmen [fans] seated at t he bar can sip a Donald Draper (Buf falo Trace, Pineau De Charentes, Apricot de Pouillson, bitters, Absint he) from a vintage glass Chef Lee Cooper’ s French inspired menu focuses is getting t hem coming back
Galloways (gallowaysfoods com) goes back quite “ aways ” The Robson Street store, was, for years, t he haven for baker y supplies, nuts, grains, beans, spices and oils and Avalon Milk) The specialty foods store relocated to Richmond (60 Alderbridge Way 604 270 6363) Owner Annie Kara has opened a second location east of Boundar y Road in Burnaby of f Marine Way (#110 8620 Glenlyon Parkway 604 430 6363) A whirlwind tour of the baking section revealed laven der flowers, calendula petals, Callebaut chocolate, a wide array of yeasts and flours at prices and sizes wor t h gassing up for t he trip From groats to grits, quinoa to kamut t here’s seeds and grains galore Vegetable shor tening, coconut oil, shea and cocoa butter geared toward making your own natural soaps and make up takes the kitchen in a new direction The Burnaby facility is set up to avoid any cross contamination between wheat, nuts and other ingredients Check out t he web site for seasonal recipes and info on cosmetic workshops
Until t he weather turns nasty, Roc kin’ Ronnie and his team will continue to dish up all you can chow down slow cooked pulled pork sandwiches and tri tip beef during Smokin’ Sundays on t he Lobby Lounge Patio, in the Fairmont Pacific Rim Hotel (1038 Canada Place; 604 695 5300)
Add ons include baby greens, hand cut coleslaw, spicy red potato salad and house made baked beans Grilled pineapple wit h caramel dulce de leche (made from goat’s milk) tops of f t his deal of a meal Stanley Park Ale washes t he whole lot down pretty nicely rain or shine
XFour Vodka drives the spirit home Handcraf ted from Canadian corn and r ye and quadrupled distilled at Okanagan Spirits in Vernon, XFour flir ts wit h t he aromas and flavours of anise and mandarin This satin smoot h vodka is best sipped neatly chilled or in an extra dr y mar tini wit h a twist XFour is available at Steamworks Liquor Store and Wall Center Fine Spirits in Vancou ver and at selected private shops throughout BC
Mission Hill proprietor Anthony Von Mandl whipped into town to present t he 2008 Perpetua along wit h several librar y wines Now in its t hird vintage t he ultra premium 100 percent chardon nay conjures up Meursault like notes of vanilla, hazelnut and honeysuckle and Burgundian acid ity Von Mandl also treated t he press to t he new Mar tin’s Lane Riesling Old world acidity frames new world fruit in t his beautifully structured riesling, a collaboration between Gunderloch and Mission Hill winemakers, Fritz Hasselbac h and John Simes by Julie Pegg
Cowichan Bay, a picturesque seaside village a shor t drive nor th of Victoria, is emerging as a little culinary oasis on Vancouver Island and quickly becoming known as the gastronomic epi centre of the Cowichan Valley region.
A vista of ocean, sail and fishing boats, piers, whar ves, floating homes, small shops and restaurants greet you as you come down the hill into the village. Most of the action takes place along the main street which runs along the waterfront. Visitors come to stroll the shops and galleries, enjoy a fine meal or simply to grab a snack. But the village is also becoming a hub for searching out and sampling local southern Vancouver Island foods and wines.
If it’s seafood you are looking for, the new Cowichan Bay Seafood shop is the place to go. Owners Gregg and Anne Best are commercial crab and prawn fishermen and pioneers in sustainable seafood production. How about fresh, whole sockeye on a cedar plank, ready for the bbq?
A little fur ther along the street Hilar y’s Cheese & Deli offers visitors a change to relax and savour cheeses produced locally or from fur ther afield. Bring fall onto your plate with Hilarys own fresh Chevre, the cheese of fall. It's a natural with smoked salmon, fresh greens or local tomatoes.
For 5 star, casually elegant dining, a shor t stroll will bring you to The Masthead Restaurant. Owner/manager Luke Harms has perfected the ar t of dining well with both the menu and the wine list celebrating local foods and wines from the nearby farms and wineries. New at the Masthead are over 24 half bottles on the wine list. Make Cowichan Bay your base for touring the region. Wor th a visit are many neighbouring wineries and farms, quality coffee shops and farmers markets. For more information on your visit to Cowichan Bay go to www.cowichanbay.com
The 6 th A nnu u al C o owi ch a an Wine & C ul inaar y Fe s st ival takes place September 18th & 19th at various locations around the valley. Music, food and wine: from the kick off Friday night to a host of Sunday events. For more information go to: wines.cowichan.net
This time of year is a well kept secret on the west coast The masses have depar ted, but the weather and waves continue to delight us As do t he “all of a sudden you don’t need a reser vation” food and drink oppor tunities
It’s a given t hat food prepared outdoors simply tastes special And t hat’s especially true when you have Clayoquot Sound as a backdrop to your outdoor food adventure Tofino Sea Kayak ing star ted of fering evening paddle tours of f Tofino this year that incorporate a stop for chocolate fondue wit h Okanagan fruit in a secluded area Owner Dorothy Baer t said t he tours are de signed for t hose who can’t enjoy t he overnight expedition style tours, but who still want to appre ciate the “sublime experience of sumptuous food in the outdoors ” Chocolate and a front row seat to nature does it get much better? The trip builds on t he company ’ s “Day in t he Sound” paddle trip t hat includes a guide prepared lunch in a remote setting Visit www tofino kayaking com or call 1 800 Tofino 4
I recently visited t he revamped Chocolate Tofino shop t hat Kim and Cam Shaw took over in March from Gord and Leah Austin Before making t he jump to permanent residency, Kim and Cam were frequent visitors to t he coast. Alt hough Cam has worked in t he food and beverage in dustr y, bot h were new to the chocolatier trade until t hey apprenticed wit h Gord and Leah Leah continues to work in t he shop, passing on all her and Gord’s recipes for hand craf ted chocolates, gourmet chocolates and truf fles, and home made gelato and sorbet Look for Chocolate Tofino in t he Beaches parking lot beside Groovy Movie or call 250 725 2526
It’s festival time again t his fall as t he Weigh West Marine Resor t gears up for t he 5th annual Beer fest on Saturday, Sept 25 From 5 8pm sample t he goods from over 10 local and regional brewers dockside at t he resor t Get your tickets for $40 at t he main of fice or at t he pub or visit www weighwest com
Just case you missed it; t he July Tofino Eat Buzz is online at www eatmagazine ca/ar ticle/2010 07 10/tofinobuzz. Check it out for news from this year ’ s Food and Wine Festival, and the goods on a five course media dinner by Long Beac h Lodge’ s new chef Randy Jones
Two local chefs are par ticipating at t he Canadian Chef’s Congress t his mont h at Providence Farm in the Cowichan Valley Andrew Springett of Blac k Rock Resor t and Lisa Ahier of SoBo Restaurant make up the west coast contingent for the conference, Sept 11 12 Details of the con gress wit h guest speaker Dr. David Suzuki at www.canadianchefcongress.blogspot.com.
As we look for ward to great fall and winter events like the Clayoquot Oyster Festival, get back out there to enjoy Tofino t he way t he locals do in t he shoulder season: hockey games and beer specials at Shelter Restaurant, lunches and margaritas at SoBo, Jojo being back (and Crazy Ron as always) at the Inn at Tough City Sushi, and Schooner Restaurant breakfast, to name a few
In my opinion, September and October are t he most enjoyable and underrated mont hs of t he year to visit Tofino by Jen Dar t
The summer has been a blur of food conversations and activities in the Comox Valley As we move into t he most glorious season of all (when we get to taste t he fruit of our and ot hers’ labours) a few places always stand out One is Locals [364 8th Street, Cour tenay 250 338 6493, where Chef Ronald St. Pierre and his team make some of the best cases for the suppor ting local growers and local prod uct To walk into t hat room is to know t he gustator y richness of t his region Anot her is Atlas Café [250 6th Street, Cour tenay 250 338 9838] which sets the bar for consistent ser vice and flavour in this town and any big city within at least a couple of hours as the crow flies There is always room for more, apparently, however, in the food savvy Comox Valley The Delicado's chain has just opened in Cour te nay at 180A 5th Street (formerly Rose’s Tea House) Whenever I’ve eaten in their Nanaimo outlets I’ve been impressed: tasty food at good prices I’m hearing ver y good luncheon repor ts about Common Ground Café [596 5th St, (250) 897 1111], a remodelled house on 5th just outside of the downtown core Open 10 10 Mon Thurs, 10 2 Fri They don’t take reser vations Congrats to Neil Mckenzie: Thai Village Restaurant [2104 Clif fe Avenue, Cour tenay, 250 334 3812] celebrated it’s 5th anniversar y this summer The fall is definitely a good excuse to reacquaint myself with the Tom Yum soup A recent eye opener to me (although others have been raving about it for years) is Osaka Sushi [6 450 Ryan Road, 250 703 0146] When I lived in the neighbourhood it was the Burger Bus Now it’s Wain Jar vis’ s Carnival Caribbean Cabana [4915D Island Hwy N , 250 334 264 4 ] and he’s getting lots of good attention for his Jamaican jerk style food Just nor th of Cour tenay at the top of Mission Hill Back in town, I’m a big fan of Tita’s Mexican Restaurant [536 6th Street, Cour tenay 250 334 8033] for a cou ple of reasons One is that they cook from the extensive garden surrounding the patio fresh fruit mar garitas are a treat! The second is that their Mexican is outside the boxes I associate with “Mexican ” This season they’re ser ving "pork picadillo tamales" and a fabulous egg free bread pudding with our own Cajeta (goat's milk caramel sauce) Heather tells me I should “remind ever yone that we make ever ything in house ” And the patio is one of the loveliest places to spend a warm September evening It’s been a while since I checked out what Chef Troy Fogar ty is up to at The Kingfisher [4330 Island Highway 250 338 1323 and 800 663 7929 www kingfisherspa com] Here are a couple of events that appeal to my eye (and tastebuds): the Seafood Buf fets (Sept 24, Oct 29th), and the Chef’s Table (Sept 30; it includes five course menu with wine pairings)
On Denman Island owner Jenny Myer and Chef Daniel Arsenault are attracting some attention with their dinners at the Kof fee Klatsch Bistro [13806 Denman Rd, 250 335 2299] Chilly fall evenings seem just the right reason to get cozy in Campbell River’s fine dining gem, the Angler's Dining Room at Dolphins Resor t [4125 Discover y Drive 1 800 891 0287] Chef David Prevost has re vamped the menu at Campbell River stalwar t Fusilli Grill [#4 220 Dogwood St] Meanwhile, Daniel is hooking up with the fisherman for fresh catch (always a good reason to visit Campbell River) and his menu follows 100 Mile and is organic Newcomer to the Fusilli Grill team is Matt Finlay, formerly kitchen manager of Mar y's Bleve Moon res t aurant The g reat er Comox Valley Campbell River is food r ic h That’s prompted Gaetane Palardy to star t Island Gourmet Trails [www islandgourmettrails ca] a series of foodie tours A great way to spend a har vest season Saturday! by Hans Peter Meyer
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Baldersons Farm Stand, 11057 Trans Canada Hwy, Stratford
Brehaut’s Take Out Restaurant, Route 18, Murray Harbour, 902 962 3141
Chef Michael Smith, www chefmichaelsmith ca
Cows Creamery, 397 Capital Dr , Charlottetown, 902 628 3614, www cows ca
Culinary Institute of Canada at Holland College’s Tourism and Culinary Centre, 4 Sydney St , Charlottetown Dunes Studio Gallery & Café, RR#9 Brackley Beach, www.dunesgallery.com
Future Seafood, 358 New Road, Fernwood on Salutation Cove
Gahan House Pub & Brewery, 126 Sydney St , Charlottetown, www gahan ca
Green Gables Mussels (L & C Fisheries Inc), French River, RR # 2, 902 886 2770
Maple Farms Apples, 494 Route 17, Lower Montague
Seaweed Secrets, www.experiencepei.ca
Myriad View Ar tisan Distillery, 1336 Route 2, Rollo Bay, www straitshine com
Raspberry Point Oysters, (800) 565 2697
Rossignol Winery, Hwy #4 along the Shore Road to #11147, Little Sands, 902 962 4193
Shipwright’s Café, 11869 Rte 6, Margate, 902 836 3403
Top Notch Lobster Excursions, Charlottetown, www.markschar ters.com
Charlottetown Restaurants
Lot 30, 151 Kent St , 902 629 3030, www lot30restaurant ca
Off Broadway, 125 Sydney St , 902 566 4620, www offbroadwayrestaurant ca
Water Prince Corner Shop & Lobster Pound, 141 Water St., 902 368 3212
Pilot House, 70 Grafton St , 902 894 4800, www thepilothouse ca
Sims Corner Steakhouse and Oyster Bar, 86 Queen St , 902 894 7467, www simscorner ca
Stay
Dalvay by the Sea, 1 888 366 2955, www dalvaybythesea com
The Great George, 58 Great George St , Charlottetown, 1 800 361 1118, thegreatgeorge com
Stanhope Bay & Beach Resor t, Route 25, Stanhope, www stanhopebeachresor t com
Fall Flavours, www tourismpei com/fall flavours festival
PEI Association of Chefs & Cooks, www chefspei com
PEI Flavours, www peiflavours ca
Tourism Charlottetown, www walkandseacharlottetown com
Tourism PEI, www.gentleisland.com
San Silvestro Gavi 2009 (Italy - $15.50-$17.50)
Made from Cor tese, another white grape unique to Piedmont, this G avi is dry with citrus, floral and mineral flavours, nicely balanced with good acidity, some weight on the palate and a very long finish An honest white at a good price.
Anterra Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie 09 (Italy $13 00 $15 00)
This lovely little Pinot Grigio from the nor th of Italy is surprisingly zesty and concentrated considering its humble price point. Light and crisp with lovely citrus floral notes and a soft, dry finish.
Il C a scinone Soril aria Roero Arneis 2007 (Italy $27.00 $29.00)
Arneis is a white grape grown almost exclusively in Italy’s Piedmont region. Light yellow with an intense bouquet of jasmine and jellybeans, explosive fruit flavours and a long, creamy finish that just doesn’t quit
Earthstone Sonoma Count y Chardonnay 09 (California$18.00-$20.00)
This is not a big fat butterball Chardonnay! It is crisp and clean; some might even say elegant, medium bodied with simple fruit flavours, a touch of oak and a soft creamy texture A very good wine indeed.
Chateau Ste Michelle Riesling 2009 (Washington, USA $17 00 $19.00)
This tasty Washington Riesling has got it all, with gobs of peach, citrus and mineral flavours, lip smacking acidity, a slightly oily texture and just enough residual to hold it all together.
Tommasi Pinot Grigio “Le Rosse” 2009 (Italy $19.00 $21.00)
Clean, fresh and dry with soft floral and apple aromas, crisp acidity and a pleasantly fruity finish. Straight forward, refreshing and absolutely delicious
C assini Pinot Gris 2008 (BC, Okanagan $15.00 $17.00)
Cassini Cellars is located on prime real estate in the hear t of the south Okanagan Valley’s Golden Mile, just outside of Oliver This refreshing Pinot Gris is clean and dry with citrus, pear and mineral flavours An old world take on what has become an Okanagan standard Very good indeed
Ancora Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 08 (Italy - $17.00-$19.00)
C aves De Lugny Cremant de Bourgogne Rose NV (France $23.00 $25.00)
If dry sparkling rose is what turns your crank but the price of pink Champagne dampens your ardor and you have been disappointed more times then you care to admit by two bit pink fizz and have all but given up hope of ever finding happiness in a flute of bubble then listen up my glum friend, I may have found what you are looking for A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and G amay, made in the Champagne method and aged in the bottle for at least a year before being released Bright pink with fine bubbles, soft fruit flavours and a clean fresh finish that begs another sip
Azul Portugal Vinho Verde 2009 (Por tugal - $16.00-$18.00)
A zul Vinho Verde is made from a blend of white grapes in the nor th of Por tugal It is light and white with crisp acid ity, simple fruit flavours and a slight spritz It goes well with all manner of shellfish and is best ser ved icy cold One bottle is never enough
Now here is a red you can bet the farm on Full bodied and robust with ripe plum, cherry and dusty earth aromas, soft fruit flavours, no sharp edges and a rich, chewy finish
Remoissenet Bourgogne Rouge 2002 (France $30.00 $32.00)
Remoissenet Pere & Fils has perhaps the largest cellar of aged Burgundy in this solar system. Although the youthful vigor of some older crus from this historic Burgundy house has caused consider able angst amongst the ever vigilant Burgundy cognoscenti, the providence of this humble Bourgogne rouge need not concern us bottom feeders Its under thir ty bucks and tastes like a Pinot Noir from Burgundy I think! Very pale with dusty strawberry nuances and a slight ear thy fecundity on the nose, sweet stewed fruit flavours, nicely balanced with a fine patina of tannin Yummy
Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva Rum (Venezuela-$56.60-$59.00)
Distilled from fermented molasses in copper potstills and aged in used whisky and bourbon barrels for an average of twelve years, this lovely rich brown rum from Venezuela is outstanding in every way, including the price An unbelievable bouquet with caramel, spice and walnuts, very sweet and unctuous on the palate with fantastic concentration and depth! An outstanding taste experience.
For dinner out, a family gathering, home parties or kicking back at the cabin, Tinhorn Creek has the wines for the occasion. Celebrating our 15th anniversary with a fresh look, we are proud to show you our 100% estate-grown varietal line up and Oldfield Series wines. At Tinhorn Creek we sustainably farm our land and create wines of merit. Our 150 acres of vineyards are located on two unique and diverse south Okanagan sites: the Golden Mile and the Black Sage bench. Our ability to blend the grapes from these vineyards and capture the best characteristics of each site sets us apart. Visit our spectacular estate winery in Oliver, BC and experience for yourself. We will welcome you with open arms.
NATURALLY SOUTH OKANAGAN www.tinhorn.com
One doesn’t typically associate the idea of terroir and fall har vest with beer The four main ingredients in beer water, malt, yeast and dried hops are available year round, so even though brewers may make cer tain seasonal styles of beer, they do this out of choice, not necessity. But come fall, when the hop plants are mature and the flowers are ready to be picked, several West Coast brewers have started to use this fresh crop to make har vest ales In fact, three local breweries Salt Spring Island Ales, Phillips and Driftwood are brewing lim ited edition har vest ales using freshly picked B.C. hops.
Like grapes, hop flowers mature in the early fall and the flavours and aromas they produce are directly related to the condi tions soil, weather, climate in which they are farmed So it’s not surprising that hops generally grow well in the same areas where grapes are grown. Oregon’s Willamette Valley and Washington’s Yakima Valley together comprise the biggest hop growing region in Nor th America Once har vested, the hop flowers are typically dried and then pelletized to preser ve them
Hops are used to add both bitterness to a beer (to balance out the sweetness of the malt) and aroma. All beers contain some, though in varying amounts. In cer tain styles they’re at the forefront, such as in an India pale ale (I PA), which will have a high bitter ness and spicy aromatic factor They play a suppor ting role, however, in, say, a brown ale, which will be softer, more round and a little sweeter. In har vest ales, they cer tainly play a starring role, but that doesn’t neces sarily mean these beers will be super bitter.
Brewing beer with fresh hops offers a flavour profile that dried hops doesn’t “It’s what you’d expect intuitively if you compare using a fresh herb to a dry herb,” says Meyer. “With hops I find that when they’re fresh and wet, there are some perfumey components to them that seem more in tense than when they are dry.” The result is a beer with bright, ear thy elements that is a good match for food
“I find that with any hoppy beer, they are more flexible than you would assume,” says Spinnakers chef, Ali Ryan. “It likes some spice it actually takes on quite a bit of spice. One of the more popular pairings I did recently was a hot and sour soup with
our malt vinegar and tomato It all worked so well with that really green flavour that you get from the hops ” Café Brio chef, Lau rie Dunn, who has hosted a Driftwood beer pairing dinner in the past, has his own phi losophy on what to pair with a well hopped beer. “I would pair it with something that’s really rich like foie gras,” he says. “The hop piness and bitterness can almost act like a palate cleanser to the rich food ”
One of the most compelling things about these local har vest ales Salt Spring’s spe cial edition of their Whale Tale Ale, Phillips’ Grow Hop Bitter and Driftwood’s Sar tori I PA is that all are made with B.C. grown hops. Salt Spring is actively involved in growing theirs organically (“Our hop plan tation is located approximately 1 5 kilome tres from the brewery and is watered with the same spring water we use for our brew ing,” says co owner Becky Julseth.) And Meyer at Driftwood is fostering relation ships with hop farmers on both the main land and Vancouver Island with the hope of primarily using B C grown hops in all of their beers in the future “I’m really jazzed on the idea of using hops that are grown lo cally because theoretically they should taste, in some strange way, more unique,” says Meyer.
And like wine grapes, there’s no telling when the har vest will be from year to year So, as much as we’d like to tell you when these beers will be available, there are no specific release dates “Last year we were brewing it in early September, but it really depends on the weather conditions,” says Meyer.
But you can bet that when he gets the call, Meyer will be cruising over to Sar tori Cedar Ranch, just outside of Chilliwack, to pick up his freshly picked hops from farmer Christian Sar tori and haul them home in a hurry. And this time, since his Sar tori I PA sold out so quickly last year, he’s bringing a bigger truck. “We’re brewing twice as much this year,” he says, “and will use sev eral hundred pounds of hops ”
Driftwood’s Sar tori I PA and Phillips’ Grow Hop Bitter will be available in most places that sell fine beer, while Salt Spring Island’s special edition Whale Tale Ale will be very limited since the 2010 harvest will be based on the yield of only 20 hop plants
Though winemaking has been around for thousands of years and is a very natural and organic process, modern winemaking is anything but. From pesticides in farming, to gas for the tractor, to the manufacture of glass bottles, to the global shipping engine, the wine on your table costs a lot more than the monetary price you paid for it.
It’s not always easy being green. Here are a few ways to make your wine world a little more verdant
Sustainable farmers ensure their land and vines are healthy, and will continue to be so for the future generations. Practices include conser ving water, energy and land, protecting air and water quality, and strengthening community relationships.
Yalumba Y Series Viognier, South Australia ($18-22)
Australia’s oldest family owned winery was the first wine company in the world to receive the Climate Protection Award from the US Environmental Protection Agency. Vibrant aromas of honeysuckle and apricot lead to a full palate of ripe and zesty tropical fruit flavours and perfumed citrus
Organic Farmers use no synthetic chemicals (fungicides, pesticides) in the vineyard, relying on natural fer tilizers, biological pest control systems and polyculture
Château de C araguilhes Domaine de L’Olivette Red. Côteaux de l a C abrerisse, Corbières, France ($20 23)
Château de Caraguilhes is ECOCE RT designated, ensuring that all grapes grown are organic A blend of Merlot (50%), Grenache (25%) and Syrah (25%), this soft, mouth fill ing Vin de Pays has concentrated aromas of cherry and spice, juicy flavours of plum and cherry, and spicy dark violet notes
Biodynamic farmers are often thought to be par t mystic, par t crazy Tending vines according to the astronomical calendar, they use herbs, minerals and manure for sprays and composts.
Marcel Deiss Beblenheim Riesling. Alsace, France ($45 50)
Marcel Deiss is one of the strongest suppor ters of biodynamic practices, and maker of some of the top whites in the world. Sipping his wines have silenced the skeptical. This Riesling is rich with fresh lime and elegant floral, has a medium body of concentrated citrus, mineral and spice, and a long stony finish.
Eco wine extends beyond what was put in the bottle to the bottle itself. Glass is a carbon footprint stomper Alternatives include PE T (a B PA free lightweight, recyclable plastic), Tetrapacks (drink boxes for grownups) and Eco Glass (lighter weight glass made from recycled materials) Decisions are also being made about closures (Stelvin is 100% recyclable aluminum), labels and adhesive, and shipping boxes
Bodegas y Viñedos Santa Emiliana Eco Bal ance C abernet Sauvignon ($12 14)
Chilean producer Viñedos Emiliana is known for their Orgánico beliefs Their Eco Balance range is farmed sustainably, eco glass bottled, labeled with ecologic paper and shipped in recycled material boxes This Cab Sauv (with 15% Syrah) is an easy drinking, medium bod ied red with plum, licorice and cherry popsicle aromas, flavours of fresh red fruit and spice and soft tannins.
Perhaps the easiest, if not the most obvious, way to drink green is to drink local. If your organic Aussie Shiraz had to be trucked, barged and flown from the other side of the world, how is that better than the BC bottle from our backyards?
Dunham & Froese Rosé, Oliver, BC ($17-21)
Located just nor th of Oliver, this local winery also follows organic and biodynamic practices. This structured and dry sipper is a blend of 95% Merlot and 5% Syrah, with a spicy sweet strawberry jam nose, full flavours of ear thy cherry, anise, lime and stone, and a lengthy finish
Cascadia features unique selections of wines from around the world, as well as showcasing local, regional products.
...mention this ad in EAT magazine and receive 5% off selected italian wines
Quadra Village (across from Fairway Market) 250.590.1940
Colwood Private Liquor Store (Corner of Sooke Rd & Kelly Rd) 250.478.1303
12 other grapes in the blend The most commonly used are Syrah and Mour vèdre, both of which add colour and increase aging potential. Mour vèdre also impar ts an appetizing gaminess. This combination is not exclusive to Châteauneuf du Pape but also used in the broader (and less expensive) appellation of Côtes du Rhône. Beyond the Rhône, Grenache, Syrah and Mour vèdre are planted throughout the southern French regions of Languedoc and Roussillon and show up in varying propor tions under a number of different appellation names
When faced with the choice of a 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and a wine labelled “Cabernet Merlot,” which do you pick? Many wine drinkers opt for the single varietal under the false impression that a blend is inferior. Is a soloist always better than an orchestra? When it comes to wine, a blend is not an afterthought or con cession nor is it simply the leftovers; it is a conscious decision. Don’t get us wrong, we love our purebred Pinot Noirs from Burgundy, but we are equally intrigued by wines that rely on more than one grape
Many highly regarded wines are made from an assor tment of grape varieties, Bordeaux being the most famous Here either Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot dominates the blend with Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot showing up in smaller propor tions When blended together, each grape contributes something unique, making the final wine more interesting Cabernet Sauvignon brings structure and ageability while Merlot gives a voluptuousness and richness, which is often lacking in Cab. For added appeal, Cabernet Franc can provide lifted aromas and bright red fruit with Petit Verdot lending spiciness. Similar to cooking, the main ingredients are enhanced by a pinch of this and a dash of that. The goal is to use exactly the right amount of each grape to make a balanced wine, with each winemaker crafting his own version Bordeaux’s success has inspired producers around the world to adopt this tried and is true recipe It was indeed the prototype for “Meritage ”
The recipe for red Bordeaux isn’t simply about taste Relying on a number of different va rieties is crucial in coping with the region’s uncer tain weather conditions Autumn rains often threaten growers at har vest time As such, the various varieties are planted on different soils and ripen at separate times allowing growers to hedge their bets. The earlier ripening Merlot may be har vested before the downpour in years when the rain comes early. If the Cabernet Sauvignon crop suffers due to the rain, wineries are able to count on their healthy Merlot grapes to play the starring role in the final blend.
France’s other great blending success story comes from the Rhône Valley The full bodied and heady red wines of Châteauneuf du Pape (CDP) have seduced palates worldwide Grenache’s ability to withstand the intense heat of the southern Rhône Valley makes it the most widely planted variety and the main component in blends It is distinguished by flavours of raspberries and garrigue, a savoury mix of sun baked herbs Beyond Grenache, CDP allows
Other countries have adopted the triumphant trio, emulating the hedonistic wines of Châteauneuf du Pape Australia has appropriated the blend to such an extent that the acronym “GSM” is often used on labels to designate the three grapes (Remember that Aus tralians call Syrah “Shiraz ”) Once upon a time, before wine drinkers became obsessed with straight varietals, most Australian wines were blends of Shiraz and Grenache. Wanting to satisfy demanding consumers, winemakers eventually focused mainly on varietal Shiraz. The pendulum is now swinging the other way and GSM blends often represent premium wines made from special old vines. Australia has also created its own signature blend. The combi nation of Cabernet Sauvignon with Shiraz is a Bordeaux meets Rhône blend if you will. Here Shiraz plays the same role that Merlot does in Bordeaux, giving plump fruit to Cabernet’s more serious structure Many of the country’s top winemakers, like Rober t Hill Smith from Yalumba, firmly believe that Cabernet Shiraz blends are far superior to straight varietal wines The Yalumba Signature cer tainly suppor ts his theory Still not convinced? Consider this: that California Cabernet Sauvignon you are drinking may only contain 75 percent of your preferred grape. This is the legal minimum required by U.S. labelling law when a single grape is stated on the label. (The minimum legal percentage varies from country to country but is usually 85 percent) In California, Cabernet Sauvignon is often blended with a small amount of Merlot and Petit Verdot. The Petit Verdot adds a cer tain “stiffening” to the mid palate by increasing tannin A producer who makes a wine with 75 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 25 percent Merlot can call it either Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Both are legal, yet consumers’ perceptions may differ Blending goes beyond just combining different grape varieties Most wines are blends on some level The same grape variety planted in different soils, climate and altitude will produce wine with different characteristics In Argentina, for example, it has become common to blend Malbec planted at low altitudes with the same grape planted at high altitudes. The former gives a soft, fruit driven character while the latter adds firmness and a high toned, perfumed flavour profile to the blend. In Australia, winemaker Peter G ago crafts Penfolds’ top wine, Grange, from grapes planted throughout different wine regions in South Australia. The exact recipe changes from year to year, but it often brings together Shiraz grapes from both warmer and cooler areas
Champagne is the quintessential blended wine. Devoted to special occasions, it cer tainly isn’t
seen as substandard. Most Champagne on the market is what is called “non vintage.” Usually a blend of all three permitted grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier), non vintage Champagne is a combination of base wines made from grapes harvested in dif ferent years The goal is to achieve a consistent house style and an overall better product in a region where the climate is extremely challenging Like Champagne, Por t is often a blend of different vintages made from various grapes More than 80 are allowed!
Beyond the celebrated classics, countless weird and wonderful blends are begging to be tasted. All that is required is an adventurous spirit. Whether a wine is a blend of different varieties, the same grape from different areas or even different vintages, the sum should be better than the par ts.
2007 St. Hallett, Gamekeeper’s Reser ve, Barossa, Australia, $13.97 (SKU# 532176)
A play on GSM where Mour vèdre is replaced by the Por tuguese grape varietal Touriga Nacional. Well made and balanced without being overdone A great everyday wine
2005 Yering Station, Shiraz Viognier, Yarra Valley, Australia, $26.98 (SKU# 699785)
Another region in the Rhône Valley that has inspired winemakers around the globe is Côte Rotie A red wine based on Syrah, it often sees a small propor tion of white grape Viognier for added dimension The resulting wine is more floral and lifted New World producers have embraced this style and label their wine Shiraz/Viognier Yerring Station crafts a fine example with pleasant white pepper, violet and red plum flavours.
2006 Ridge, Santa Cruz Mountains, California, $50 (SKU# 720664) (56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot) Plush fruit but firmly corseted with silky tannins Abundant flavours of blackberry are complimented with cedar and bay laurel. A long time favourite with the house wine girls when gathering with good friends for an upscale barbecue
2008 Montes, 'Classic Series' Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Chile, $14.95 (SKU# 464479) (Note that this is labelled as Cab, but there is a healthy 15% dose of Merlot) Although it’s a great value year after year, the 2008 might be the best vintage we’ve ever seen. Generous blackberry, vanilla and chocolate flavours with just the right tannin structure A great Monday night wine with red meat of all kinds
2001 Château Bernadotte, Haut Médoc AOC, Bordeaux, France, $45.95 (SKU# 437277) (65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot) Bordeaux’s underrated 2001 vintage produced excellent wine at a very good price. This is a great example Developed flavours of sweet tobacco and cassis with pleasant refreshing mineral notes Fantastic value and a treat with rack of lamb
2007 Cuvée du Vatican, Réser ve Sixtine, Châteauneuf du Pape, France, $74 00 (SKU# 594952) (55% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 15% Mour vèdre) Full bodied and rich with flavours of crushed raspberries, prunes and grilled herbs Despite its heft, there is some elegance here Be prepared to ser ve something hear ty with it A feast of grilled sausages would be our pick.
2007 Château Saint Mar tin de la Garrigue, ‘Bronzinelle,’ Coteaux du Languedoc AOC, France, $21.99 (SKU# 194654)
The Bronzinelle tempts our weakness for Syrah Rounded out with a touch of Grenache, Mour vèdre and Carignan, this southern French red offers up meaty aromas with crushed lavender, dried herbs and dark black fruit on the palate Santé! Wine pairing options abound nv Henriot, ‘Souverain’ Brut, Champagne AOC, France, $60-65* (60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay)
One of the best value non vintage Champagnes when you want the real thing. Toasty and enticing, rich brioche notes with lingering lemon and a nutty finish We can never get enough of it
2007 De Toren, ‘Fusion V ’ , Stellenbosch, South Africa, $50 55* (55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 10% Malbec, 7% Petit Verdot) Aromas of tobacco, black currant and a hint of fresh cut green pepper intrigue Just as pleasurable on the palate Lush yet structured and full of ear thy notes; California meets Bordeaux. Delicious now but will be even better in five to eight years.
2008 The Wolftrap, Syrah, Mour vèdre, Viognier, Franschhoek, South Africa, $14.99 (SKU# 138479)
Soft, plump, dark plum and blackberry notes with a hint of tar Perfect for the final days of barbecue season or pizza night. Simple, tasty and savoury, it over delivers for the money. *Available at private wine stores only Prices may vary
Cocktails are returning to their pre prohibition roots, lovingly made with the finest ingredients and utmost attention to detail.
We are in a new age of drinking The age of the craft cocktail Craft cocktails are not the insipid blue and purple, this doesn’t taste like alcohol drinks that filled every “mar tini” list in the 1990s Instead you will find craft cocktails pouring from the shakers of barmen and women whose minds and palates are more that of a chef or ar tisan
Attention to detail is what makes a craft cocktail. Thought is put into every aspect of the drink base spirit choice, fresh juice, bitters, homemade ingredients, proper technique, ice, right down to the choice of glass.
The passion building behind these intoxicating libations is palpable. Not only are we see ing more cocktail competitions, but whole festivals are now becoming popular Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans is the mainspring of the cocktail festival world, and more keep pop ping up The Manhattan Cocktail Classic, a five day event in New Your City, just had its first and very successful run last May And the Ar t of the Cocktail festival, right here in Victoria is now preparing for its second year of promoting craft cocktails with an event October 16 18. To Shawn Soole, from Clive’s in Victoria, a craft cocktail is a classic drink with a gourmet twist. Shawn takes cocktails that may have been around for a hundred years or more and adds a homemade ingredient Like his classic Manhattan cocktail with a dash of homemade cherry bitters
In the golden age of bar tending, 1862 1920, bar tenders made most of their mixing ingre dients themselves Fresh ginger beer, homemade bitters, raspberry and pineapple syrups from scratch were the order of the day It was not just a matter of pride, it was the only op tion. In recent decades, bar tender have taken the easy way out: grenadine that has nothing to do with pomegranate, sour mix that tastes more like Tang than citrus, and, of course, those legendary atomic red cherries. All of these shor tcuts are akin to having a gourmet chef who uses bouillon cubes, MSG and cheese in a spray can The craft cocktail movement is trying to set this to rights by returning cocktails to their pre prohibition roots, lovingly made with the finest ingredients and utmost attention to detail
“A true craft cocktail is prepared with care and an educated technique,” says Simon Ogden of Victoria’s Veneto Tapa Lounge. “Each component ingredient is balanced and present on the palate, and tasked with enriching the spirit at its base.”
Ogden’s words are exactly what bar tenders need to think about when they take par t in competitions like Ar t of the Cocktail’s Best Bar tender of the Pacific Nor thwest Presented by E AT Magazine on October 17 When presenting their drinks, veteran bar tenders like Odgen offer the judges sound reasons behind every ingredient and every step of the as sembly Ogden’s Serenity cocktail is the perfect example: Hennessy V S , Silk Road philoso pher’s brew tea, elderflower, mint, and a splash of Chandon Blanc de Noirs The Serenity is not built upon just any brandy; it is geared towards bringing out the floral notes in the Hen nessy V.S. cognac.
Lauren Mote of The Refinery in Vancouver says this about making craft cocktails: “I’m thinking like a chef or an artist because the end product should be pleasing to the eye, erotic to the nose, velvet and complex on the palate, and super unique ” If you ever get a chance to have her “Charred Bourbon Sour”, you will see what she means Mote took her tasting notes on Maker’s Mark bourbon and deconstructed them, then reconstructed them into a cocktail, mixing the bourbon with house made charred American oak and caramelized co conut syrup and homemade bitters.
If you’re ever in doubt about whether you’re drinking a craft cocktail, Brad Stanton of Uva in Vancouver has some advice. “You know you have a craft cocktail when, after the bar tender sets the drink down on the bar, you feel obligated to pause as a show of respect be fore you delve into the first sip ”
Truly we are living in a great time to go out for a few drinks It’s been a hundred years since there have been so many great bar tenders taking care with their craft Just as much as chefs and kitchens have benefited from the myriad of fresh and interesting ingredients available, so too have bar tenders and the bar.
