EAT Magazine 15-05 September|October 2011

Main Plates

Chefs Survival Race 13 Great Garden Dinner 20 Opened in Vancouver . .23

One Ingredient 24

Autumn Soups . . . . . . . .26

Destination Naramata 42 Heirloom Vegetables . . .44

Tapas

Chefs’

Wine + Terroir . . . . . . . .30

Wine & Food Pairing 32 Books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Liquid Assets 35 News from around BC . .37 Okanagan Wine News . .46

Editor in Chief Gary Hynes

Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman, Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg Okanagan Contributing Editor Claire Sear Editorial Assistant/Web Editor Rebecca Baugniet Online DRINK Editor Treve Ring

Community Reporters

Nanaimo: Karma Brophy, Tofino | Uclulet: Jen Dart, V Vaannc c o u uvve e r r: : Julie Pegg, Okanagan: Jennifer Schell, Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet, Comox Valley: Eli Blake

Contributors Larry Arnold, Peter Bagi, Michelle Bouffard, E v a C h e r n e f f , Jennifer Danter, Jen Dart, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Holland Gidney, Tracey Kusiewicz, Kathryn Kusyszyn, Anya Levykh, Ceara Lornie, Denise Marchessault, Sherri Martin, Sandra McKenzie, Michaela Morris, Julie Pegg, Genevieve Laplante, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Solomon Siegel, Elizabeth Smyth, Adem Tepedelen, Michael Tourigny, J e n n y U e c h i , Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Caroline West, M e l o d y We y

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark

Advertising: 250 384 9042, editor@eatmagazine ca Mailing address: Box 5225, Victoria,

Cover photography: GREAT GARDEN DINNER by Michael Tourigny

Food Memory

I’m sitting on the veranda, in the waning, late afternoon autumn sun, eating blueberries. It’s been an outstanding year for blueberries The cooler summer seems to agree with them They’re sweet with an intense flavour and a lovely bite of acidity As I eat the inky coloured berries, I think of my Nova Scotian grandmother She loved blueberries. My memory of her making, actually churning by hand, fresh blueberr y ice cream is one that stays with me to this day But it’s another of her blueberry recipes I now hanker for Grunt Grunt is really nothing more than stewed blueberries and dumplings, cooked together in a big old pot (Grandmother cooked hers on a wood stove.) But Grunt is so much more than the sum of its parts. Somehow, eating the berries lip puckering hot together with the dumplings soaked with the thick juices, brought out an incredible “blueberry ness” This is the first time in a long while that I’ve thought of her Blueberry Grunt Perhaps it’s because this year, the berries are so damn fine; my brain, linking back to childhood, conjured up this lovely memory.

Food memory is an essential tool in any good chef’s arsenal Without it, you cook without context With it, you are part of a long continuum of chefs and cooks both professional and home and all of its hard won knowledge and experience Memory improves your cooking. It tells you the difference between a corporate, tasteless tomato and a ripe, field tomato bursting with flavour and nutrition It whets your appetite and tells you when an ingredient is good If you had only ever eaten winterized, supermarket tomatoes, how would you ever know?

You might ask why it’s called Grunt? Because there’s a tendency to eat too many bowlfuls… well you get the idea.

Good eating! Gary Hynes, Editor

chefs talk compiled by Ceara

The Ask

Jena Stewar t Devour 250.590.3231

My friends get so ner vous, we rarely get invited to anyone ' s for dinner I almost hate to explain that as chefs when we can eat it's usually on a milk crate in some despicable alley, stuf fing our mout hs wit h carbs and only wit h a fork , because a knife is never within reach If our friends just roasted a chicken and threw some veggies on t he plate I would be so happy Hint hint

Zoe O’Doher ty La Piola 250.388.4517

Bot h my husband and I are chefs and have t his problem, but worse t hen t hat is when you get invited over for dinner and somehow you get wrangled into cooking it

Ronald St Pierre Locals 250.338.6 493

Most of my friends are happy to cook for us as t hey know t hat t he visit is what it is about sharing a meal in good company But many other friends have told us t hat they wouldn't have us over in fear of t heir cooking too bad, so sad I would be happy wit h hotdog as long as t hey buy t he sausage locally!

Matthew Rissling The Marina Restaurant 250 598 8555

I usually take t he ‘less is more ’ route I really love simple home cooking, so I don’t t hink anyone f eels reluct ant to cook for me The whole point is g e tting tog e t her, and t hat’s usuall y more impor tant t han what’s being ser ved I am happy to sit down to pas ta wit h good bread and a simple green salad or roast chicken When talking about food wit h friends outside of work it’s usually about food politics or gardening instead of trading recipes or shop talk

Peter Zambri Zambri’s 250 360 1171

The bulk of us chefs are pretty down to ear t h and I don't t hink my family or friends are reluctant to cook for me I tr y to relieve any tension in that situation by eit her helping out or by opening t he first bottle of wine or beer I also believe t hat most chefs are pretty easy to cook for considering that it happens so infrequently So any ladies out there wish to invite me over for dinner? Wink wink

Lisa Har ter y Nautical Nellies 250.380.2260

Once family and friends realise that we are only too happy to have someone else do t he cook ing, t hey relax Ever y home cook has a specialty from mac and cheese to lobster bisque, recipes handed down from g enerations pas t These comfor t foods are of t en more memorable t han anyt hing we've eaten in five star restaurants

Robin Jac kson Sooke Harbour House 250.6 42.3421

Sometimes people can be a bit shy when cooking for ot her people I have to say t hat whenever ot her people cook for me I enjoy the experience of eating t heir fun twists on food so much more t han if I had made it, and I always tell t hem t hat No matter how simply or intricately a meal is prepared it is always a work of ar t Cheers to all t he beach fire dinners wit h friends and midnight batches of cookies! Food is such a fun, shared experience!

Jamie Cummins Relish 250.590.846 4

Most of my friends and family know that all I want is simple food I t hink most of t he fear is cen t ered around t he q ues tion if whe t her some t hing is done or not. Is it med rare? Is t he c hic ken cooked? Did I overcook t he salmon? Family and friends cook from t he hear t Sophistication and creativity cannot replace t hat

John E. Brooks Smoken Bones Cookshac k

I have always have a laugh at my folks for t his situation When visiting, I'm always thrown into t he 'surprise' family gathering, for which I seem to be t he only one able to cook I don't get the 'fear' t hing; if t hey knew what I eat at home, I'm sure t hey would challenge me to see who made t he better nachos

CHEF MEETS

GRAPE

Sept. 22, Vancouver Convention Centre West, Vancouver. The largest annual tasting of BC VQA wines in Vancouver, over 75 BC wineries will be sharing their new fall releases, delectably paired with inspired dishes from 12 top Ocean Wise partner restaurants With over 250 award winning Wines of British Columbia, 12 mouth watering dishes, and a critics choice raw bar (featuring wine pairings from top local wine writers and sommeliers), this is an evening you and your tastebuds will never forget! Tickets: $85 (plus HST), with 10% of all proceeds going to the Ocean Wise program at the Vancouver Aquarium. For ticket info go online to www eatmagazine ca/events

Lor nie

“Are your friends and family reluctant to cook for you in fear that you might consider their cooking to be less sophisticated or creative than yours?”

SEPTEMBER

The Great Canadian Beer Festival

The Great Canadian Beer Festival has become one of the worlds' must attend beer events. People from all over the globe seek out Victoria and the GCBF every year; the event attracts brewers from Australia, volunteers from England and beer lovers from all over In support of C Fax Santa's Anonymous, the GCBF will be held Sept 9 10. (www.gcbf.com)

Feast of Fields Metro Vancouver, Vancouver Island & the Okanagan Vancouver’s Feast of Fields is taking place at Krause Berry Farms in Langley, Sept.11. Vancouver Island’s will be held at Marley Farm in Saanichton, Sept 18 Okanagan’s is August 21 at Van Westen Vineyards & Orchards, Naramata www feastoffields com

Cowichan Wine & Culinary Festival

The 7th Cowichan Wine and Culinar y Festival will take place Sept 14 18 The Festival offers an assortment of the area’s best wines and ciders, unique farm fresh delights from organic farms, live entertain ment, green Earth seminars, and hand blown glassware. To spend your day at the festival simply follow the detailed map available on the official website, or pick up the festival brochure at local businesses and tourist info centers Many WIVA wineries, cideries & meaderies will be pouring (http://wines cowichan net/maps htm)

James Barber Fundraiser Dinner Thurs, Sept 15, 6 9 p m , Cowichan Chef’s Table and invited BC chefs are hosting a culinar y showcase in honour of the late James Barber, Canada's Urban Peasant. The event at Providence Farm will feature stations throughout the historic buildings offering culinar y delicacies paired with local beer, wine and cider They will also be officially launching the James Barber Wood Burning Oven project 250 746 4204 provfarm@providence.bc.ca

Kneading Conference West Sept 15 17, Mount Vernon, Washington designed to inspire and educate novice and professional bakers, grain growers, millers, wheat breeders, wood fired oven enthusi asts, food entrepreneurs, food writers, and anyone who loves to eat hand crafted breads The purpose is to bring together people who, by exchanging skills, experi ences, and ideas, will invigorate the re building of regional grain systems kneadingconferencewest.com

Sip and Savour Salt Spring

This festival brings together growers, food providers and chefs from Salt Spring Island and neighbouring Gulf Islands, Cowichan Valley and Saanich Peninsula with vintners

representing the wine growing regions of British Columbia. On Friday evening, from 6:30 10 pm, talented local chefs and wine makers will create a seven course dinner to be held at the oceanfront Hastings House Hotel on their fabulous gardens under a giant marquee There will only be 120 tickets sold for this Gala Winemakers’ Dinner at $160 00 per person (taxes and gratuity included). Sept. 23 24. (www.sipandsavoursaltspring.com)

BC Wine Awards Reception & Tasting

This event kicks off the 2011 Fall Okanagan Wine Festival and includes the announce ment of the award winning wines from the 2011 Fall Judging Competition This medal winning wines competition is judged by world renowned judges judging the wines produced by our member wineries The announcement will be followed by a recep tion including fabulous tapas & canapés and the opportunity to be one of the few to taste a selection of some of these award winning wines while you still can Sept 29 (www OkanaganWineAwards com)

OCTOBER

Art of the Cocktail

The Art of the Cocktail is a special weekend long event fundraiser for the Victoria Film Festival The Grand Cocktail Tasting returns to the Crystal Garden Oct 1, while public tastings and special events will be held from Oct 1 3. (www.artofthecocktail.ca).

Baker’s Market Vancouver

A gathering of professional, amateur, stu dent & Mommy bakers who get together to buy and sell their baked goods to the com munity Inspired by farmers markets (no veggies please), just lots of sweet & savoury baked goodies Saturdays, from 11am 3pm, Oct 1 Dec 10. (www.bakersmarket.com/)

Dog Days of Summer

For the 9th year in a row the dogs get the run of the winery! Come join the team at See Ya Later Ranch for an afternoon of fun while raising awareness and funds for the BC SPCA Bring your favourite four pawed buddy to discover local vendors and enjoy various dog treats While your best pal is making new furr y friends, there will be plenty on hand for you to enjoy such as current and newly released See Ya Later Ranch wines All proceeds to the BC SPCA Enter the doggy fashion show to win fabulous prizes! Oct 1 (www sylranch com)

The Salt Spring Island Apple Festival

This is your chance to visit Apple Heaven while still on earth! Become a Salt Spring Island Apple Connoisseur for a day Where else do you have over 350 different apple varieties being grown organically? Salt Spring's apple history dates back to 1860. Oct 2, 9 5 saltspringmarket com/apples/)

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead the concierge desk by Rebecca Baugniet For more events visit www eatmagazine ca

Pommes d’Amour

As a youngster growing up in Ontario, I demanded compensation for the end of summer; six months of frozen miser y wasn’t something to look for ward to. Relief arrived in late August in the form of tomatoes: beefsteak tomatoes big enough to fill your fist, luscious and dripping with acid to the point where a mouth might break out in cankers The tomato was summer

The concentration of an old fashioned tomato was aphrodisiac on the palate, as the perceptive French knew when they called the fruit “pommes d’amour” love apples We, unsurprisingly, know shamefully little about our palate, that cluster of taste buds that constitutes the food lover’s G spot It’s the most ignored entity in our bodies

Theory has it that sea turtles brought the seeds to Mexico, where the Aztecs became the first to cultivate it The conquistador Cortez found it growing in Montezuma’s garden in 1519 and took it to Spain in seed form. For the next 100 years or so, it was strictly ornamental. The Spanish were convinced it was poisonous.

Times change: nowadays the Spanish town of Buñol is home to the annual Tomatina Festival, in which as many as 40,000 aficionados plaster one another with 250,000 pounds of tomatoes Splaaaaaaat! Talk about painting the town red

Roughly 7,500 species of tomato but how many can we find at the supermarket? are being cultivated today They come in a rainbow of colours: yellow, orange, pink, purple, green, black and white The world’s largest producers are China, the U S and Turkey

The tomato is magnificently healthy Cooked tomatoes and tomato sauce are famously associated with the prevention of prostate cancer. The secret weapon is lycopene, which also pitches in to stave off cervical, colon, rectal, stomach, mouth and esophagus cancers. Harvard researchers claim the tomato content of 10 slices of pizza a week is enough to reduce chances of prostate cancer by 45 percent

Yet we might worry about the health of the tomato itself: as in the case of corn which has long been infused with sweetness the corporate men and their laboratory geeks are more determined than ever to exorcize that wonderful acidity and turn the tomato into a sugar bomb with a shelf life long enough to satisfy Methuselah What might halt this odious trend are current revelations involving the profound unhealthiness of sugar

The joy of living on the Saanich Peninsula is that tomatoes that almost rival the beefsteaks of my long ago summers are available six months a year. I attribute this to Sun Wing Tomatoes, the hugely successful greenhouse operation among the farms of Oldfield Road

Sun Wing’s tomatoes are pesticide free because proprietors Jeanette Lee and Tom Law use insects to combat diseases and blights The greenhouses turn out beefsteak, Roma, Campari, heirloom and cherry tomatoes They’re the best I’ve tasted outside Ontario, richly endowed with roaring flavour and a wonderful, biting acidity

We go through 15 pounds a week My wife Carol Clemens is the tomato lady: when Sun Wing closes in October, she snaps up 50 pounds of green tomatoes and lets them ripen in the garage; they last well into November. She freezes tomatoes for soups and sauces that dispense gastronomic sunshine all winter long. She oven dries Romas as powerhouse garnishes throughout the year.

For breakfast, we slice tomatoes, sprinkle them with Maldon salt and drizzle them with Carol’s house made rosemar y oil Our summer salad is tomatoes tossed with Quebec goat cheese and roasted pecans, then dressed in lemon and olive oil For hours, she stirs puttanesca sauce of tomatoes, garlic, black olives, capers, anchovies and chilies; it was the sauce the whores of Naples famously kept simmering for their clients’ other appetite Her tomato tarte Tatin leaves me drooling Her tomato soups boast bottomless depths of flavour My taste buds dance like leprechauns on a Jamieson’s binge.

My tomato addiction knows few limits. A few years ago, I asked my loved one to concoct a sorbet à la Provençale, a savoury sherbet of tomato, garlic and rosemary. She did I loved it I was raving about it even as the guests fled

epicure at large by Jeremy Ferguson

A Meaty Issue

There’s much more to the classic cuts than traditional American steak house fare. Julie Pegg investigates.

Susanville, a honky tonk town a couple of hours north of Reno on I 395 boasts two correctional facilities, a dusty main drag, a couple of ser vice stations and ver y few places to eat There is, however, Lassen’s Steakhouse, where the atmosphere is roaring ’20s supper club and the house specialty is Steak Delmonico The 20 ounce aged rib eye is trucked to the table escorted by creamy chopped potatoes flecked with onions and cheese, and Delmonico sauce, a smooth concoction of French dressing, Worcestershire sauce, ketchup, finely diced green pepper and sieved hard cooked egg Named for Peter and John Delmonico’s eponymous 19th century New York dining establishment, and precursor of the modern steak house, the simple yet decadent dish along with the porterhouse became a culinary icon The Delmonico steak has largely gone astray (Emeril Lagass’s Delmonico in Las Vegas doesn’t even have it on the menu), but the jumbo T bone remains the king of the American steak house However, there is more at stake than Ruth’s Chris and Morton’s. In Tuscany, the porterhouse struts it stuff as Bistecca alla Fiorentina. Accessorizing the steak (which hails from the ancient Cianina breed of cattle) with anything more than salt, pepper and olive oil and grilling it beyond medium rare is sacrilege Plated on a bed of baby arugula, showered with squeezes of lemon, and a bowl of cooked cannellini beans by its side, this smashing (but pricey) cut of beef feeds two to four easily

Entrecôte or steak frites, the mainstay of the French bistro, should come to the table tender and juicy; the fries golden, crisp and piping hot When piqued by a succession of disappointing restaurant efforts, I sear New York strip (not super sized) chez moi on a charcoal grill and whip up a peppercorn sauce or Roquefort butter to go with it Not always up for turning spuds into shoestrings and twice frying them, I toss julienne potatoes with a couple of tablespoons of lemon oil and oven fry on a parchment lined baking sheet.

Argentine vacio is perfect for the steak lover with less than deep pockets. A whole flank, best purchased from a reliable butcher and untrimmed, begs for a garlicky massage that includes chili powder, brown sugar, black pepper and coarse salt It should then languish for about 24 hours in the fridge to tenderize the meat, which also requires scoring to prevent curling. Seared over a hot fire six minutes a side, followed by grilling it rare to medium rare over a low flame, it is enjoyed best sliced and served with chimichurri (see July/August issue of EAT for recipe) Reach for a good bottle of juicy Malbec and say olé Even chewier cuts such as chuck and round steak are better choices for pot roast and Swiss steak, yet a bath in a marinade and a quick sear over the flame prior to oven braising adds a depth of taste and texture.

For me the best value for money is the sirloin cap a flat, triangular piece of muscle that covers the top sirloin and the tri tip, which lies beneath the bottom sirloin Again, it’s best to rely on a good butcher to cut and trim the meat Both cuts are lean and ideal for grill “roasting,” with or without a marinade or rub. The result, especially in the case of the “cap,” is a tender bit of meat whose rich beefy taste defies any roast or steak I’ve eaten Shredded leftover meat, tossed in a goodly amount of barbecue sauce, makes the ultimate pulled beef sandwich

Regardless of how humble or posh your steak is, you need, as with wood, to “read” its grain before cutting Steak and steak “roasts,” raw or cooked, need slicing across that grain to break up tough fibres A 45 degree angle is a reliable rule of thumb If you are cutting and trimming your own meat on a regular basis, investing in a butcher’s steak knife is also wise.

While you’re at it, why not get that Delmonico back on track? Spring for a juicy aged rib eye (one per two people should easily do it) Prepare sauce and potatoes ahead of time Whip up a pitcher of martinis Pop the cork on a good California merlot Gussy up the table and raise your glass to a bygone era

A Local Story.

Eric Whitehead of Untamed Feast watches the forest fire season closely and quietly, planning his next move. A few months later he disappears deep into coastal BC forests and emerges with baskets of fire morels we use in our creations.

Wilderness locations and hard hiking. Just one of the stories that make up our plates each day.

Silk Road Teas are created and blended in Victoria using fresh, organic botanicals. Exceptional freshness, combined with organic growing practices, results in higher antioxidant levels and superior flavour in your cup. What’s just as important as the premium quality ingredients we select for our teas, are the ingredients we never use - no artificial flavours or colours - just pure, healthy, deliciousness in every sip. For recipes, contests & tea fun join us on facebook.

The Whole Beast

Some months back, Corey Pelan gave up his post as chef at Victoria’s La Piola Ristorante to turn working solely with his “meat nerd” side. (Even when he was chef, he would spend his Sundays off drying and curing ) The Whole Beast finally opened its doors June 28 The new salume ria fits nicely into the same retail site as the Village Butcher in Oak Bay. That makes meat shopping a breeze for the locals, who are thrilled with the new neigbourhood addition.

Salumi is to the Italians what charcuterie is to the French However, instead of pork based pȃtés, hams, sausages, rillettes, etc. Italian salumi relies on the cow as well as the pig for cured and air dried meats But both cultures incorpo rate the animal nose to tail

Pelan is quick to emphasize his passion leans toward southern European cold meats In that, The Whole Beast differs considerably from a charcuterie. Proof, shall we say, is in his product. There are beef salamis, three of which are flecked with fennel, lemon or four types of chile, and Fairburn Farm water buffalo salami and breasola Porcine selections include lardo (fatback cured with rosemar y and other spices), lonzino (air cured pork loin, called lomo in Spain), and mortadella, of the same fine quality you would find in Bologna. My favourite, though, is the shop’s coppa di testa or trotter brawn as the English call it, and better known to North Americans as head cheese The whole beast, literally, gets used for the delicate trotter brawn, including cheeks and ears The jowls are removed, however, for guanciale For his coppa di testa, Pelan looks to lovely cow bits.

Partner Geoff Pinch, a whiz with the smoker, gives a nod to more northerly climes with liver wurst, cabanossi (smoked sausage made from pork and beef and lightly seasoned) and various types and degrees of smokey bacon

Native pine floors, distressed wood cases and chunky jars of homemade mustard, pickled vegetables (beets, carrots, beans), antipasti and sauerkraut echo the rusticity of the wares Pelan is also making kimchi (a traditional Korean dish of fermented vegetables) “The idea came from Vancouver’s Japa Dog Just use it on sausage as you would sauerkraut,” he says Pelan and Pinch give Vancouver’s Rob Belcham a big thumbs up for helping them on their Whole Beast venture (and adventure).

Prosciutto lovers, and who isn’t, take heart (and heed) In another four months or so, they should have a steady supply on hand “Six months aging is good, one year is ideal,” says Corey testament again to his devotion to, well, The Whole Beast

The Whole Beast, 2032 Oak Bay Ave., Victoria, 250 213 1226, www.thewholebeast.ca; Tuesday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.

top shelf by Julie Pegg

Corey Pelan and Geoff Pinch are curing, drying and smoking in a new Oak Bay establishment.

Owner Cor y Pelan with a selection of his charcuterie.

Cookware Advisory

Do you love the way crêpes slide easily out of your Teflon pan? Are you still making soup in the aluminum stockpot you inherited from your Grandma? If you answered yes to either question, you may need a cookware “attitude adjustment ” While most consumers deliberate on the health aspects of the foods they eat, few question the pans. It seems there are some compelling reasons to do so.

Teflon, which accounts for more than half the cookware sold in America, isn’t a specific material or chemical Teflon is a coating made from polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and manufactured using perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) both of which come from the perfluorochemical (PFC) family In general, PFCs are problematic because a growing body of evidence suggests they are highly toxic and damaging to humans and the environment Specifically PFOA has been deemed “likely carcinogenic” based on lab studies done on rats. Dupont, the owner of Teflon, maintains none of these chemicals are released “under normal cooking conditions,” but even they admit that overheating can cause the chemicals to “off gas.”

Pure aluminum pans are cheap and great conductors of heat, but, like Teflon, they pose dangers to health when overheated or scoured, as this causes the metal to be leached into food In addition, absorption of aluminum occurs at a higher rate when acidic foods or leafy vegetables are cooked in the pans Though aluminum is perfectly safe for the body in small doses, higher doses have been linked, albeit not conclusively, to Alzheimer’s.

The question arises why would anyone take a chance with Teflon or aluminum when, as Jed Grieves, owner of Victoria’s Cook Culture, points out, “there are so many safe, superior options available? Let’s take a look at a few Anodized

Aluminum

This is NOT the old school aluminum cookware you need to be wary of The electro chemical anodizing process locks in the cookware’s base metal aluminum, providing a hard, scratch resistant finish In fact, the seal is so protective you can safely prepare acidic foods like tomato sauce in anodized aluminum pans And, as Stephanie Clark, owner of Haute Cuisine, notes, “anodized aluminum pans deliver quick, uniform heating and are easy to clean.” Her favourite brand of anodized cookware is All Clad.

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel is durable, affordable and highly recommended by cookware aficionados around the globe. The term stainless steel is actually a misnomer as these pans are really a mixture of different metals One of these metals is nickel, which can be a problem if you happen to have a nickel allergy Though these pans are extremely sturdy, overzealous cleaning can scratch the surface and lead to the release of trace amounts of nickel According to Shalene Clermont of Penna and Co Kitchen and Giftware, manufacturers have responded to this concern and there are now “nickel free” brands of stainless steel readily available.

Cast Iron

This safe option is a particular favourite of Stephanie Clark’s “it’s beautiful to cook with,” she enthuses, “it provides even heating and great heat retention. And, if it’s well seasoned, it becomes virtually non stick after a while ” Because iron tends to rust, it does have to be “seasoned” with oil before it is used Also, iron pans that have not yet built up a patina of seasoning can leach small amounts of the mineral This isn’t a concern for most people as iron is a vital nutrient most of us tend to be deficient in However, if you suffer from haemochromatosis (a genetic disorder causing an overload of iron in the body), you may want to avoid cooking in cast iron. Another cautionary note avoid cast iron from China. It tends to be full of junk metals. All our local experts agree that U.S. manufacturer Lodge makes the best cast iron pans available.

Ceramic

This enamel finish is completely inert; safe to use and provides the same heat distribution properties of cast iron without calling for the seasoning process However, ceramic cookware calls for a gentle cook as it can chip easily The best ceramic cookware? Our local experts give the thumbs up to Le Creuset from France

What we cook our food in can be just as important as what we cook.

An Apple A Day

In June I was overjoyed to see that my little apple tree had hundreds of nascent apples During the 20 years I’ve known this mysterious tree, it has produced only two to eight apples per year. The only exception to this skimpy annual crop occurred in the summer after the Blizzard of ’96, when the tree produced hundreds of crisp, sweet apples, each one as big as a newborn baby’s head Last winter it snowed and was cold for a while, and once again, the tree is laden with fruit The apples are delicious eaten as is, slathered with pumpkin seed or almond butter, made into crumbles, pies, cakes and muffins, or bubbled into applesauce.

For local farms that sell organic, heritage and connoisseur apples, go to allaboutapples com/orchard/bc htm Mollies Delicious, Ambrosia, Winter Banana, Cox Orange Pippin, Blushing Golden, Apricot Apple, Chenango Strawberry, Muscadet de Dieppe, Pink Pearl and Suntan are just a handful of the hundreds of locally grown varieties with mouth watering names and unique flavours

Don’t miss Salt Spring Island’s Apple Festival 9 a m to 5 p m , Sunday, October 2, 2011 (saltspringmarket com/apples/) This fun, educational event features 350 organically grown apple varieties, tastings and apple identification services.

Cider, applejack (100 proof brandy distilled from hard cider) and Calvados (a dry apple brandy often used to enhance meat and poultry dishes) are lip smacking liquid options Check out Farmhouse Scrumpy, a traditional Somerset rough cider at Cobble Hill’s Merridale Cider Works

Apples can be made into delectable desserts such as apple charlotte, fritters, apple pandowdy, apple Florentine, candy apples, apple snow and apple granita, made with dry Riesling and Calvados Try them in Waldorf salad or mingle them with braised red cabbage for a fine fall dish Preserve them as pickles, jelly, relish or apple butter, or use them to make chutney with dates, apricots, figs or peaches. This portable, versatile fruit easily swings from sweet to savoury

Crisp and delicious local varieties are ready to be turned into apple pies, applesauce and even ... apple pizza.

One of my favourite fall recipes is a savour y apple flower pizza Peel and smash a head of garlic In a medium sized pan, melt 6 tablespoons of butter over medium heat Peel and core 5 apples and slice each apple into 6 chunks Place apples, 1/2 teaspoon chili flakes and garlic in the pan Simmer one hour, uncovered, over low heat, s tir r ing occasionally Remove from heat, cool and purée Slice a large red onion t hinly into rings Over medium low heat, sauté onions in a tablespoon of olive oil until they are caramelized Peel and core two apples, cut t hem in half and slice t hem into ver y t hin slices Place a pizza shell on a baking sheet and spread it evenly with apple garlic purée Spr inkle caramelized onions over t he shell, pressing them lightly into the purée Reser ve some onions for garnish

Star ting at the outside of the shell, place apple slices closely toget her on top of t he onion rings, wit h eac h slice f acing t he same way, to for m a f lower patt er n Press t hem lightly into t he apple purée Place a mound of caramelized onions in t he centre and sur round it wit h a r ing of apple slices Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon each of sugar, cor iander and cumin Bake 15 minut es in a preheat ed 375°F oven Slice into wedg es and

ser ve hot The viole t onions, aubur n purée and ivor y apple slices have a beautiful autumnal glow

Spiced Applesauce with Sweet Basil Seeds

This raw applesauce, created by Tamara Bailey, c hef/owner of Caf é Ceylon in Victor ia, has a unique paradisiacal tang Sweet basil seeds are available at Burnside Food Market, 658 Burnside Rd , Saanich “The soaked seeds are plump, shiny and beautiful like caviar,” says Bailey Ser ves 4 6

6 sweet apples, peeled, cored and chopped

4 green cardamom pods

1/4 tsp saf fron

1/4 tsp nutmeg

1 Tbsp rosewater

1/2 cup raw honey

1 tsp lime juice

2 tsp sweet basil seeds, soaked in cold water for 5 minutes

Purée c hopped apples in a food processor and place purée in a bowl Remove cardamom pod shells and grind seeds into a powder

Add saf fron, nutmeg, rosewat er, honey, cardamom powder and lime juice to t he apple purée and mix with a wooden spoon

Garnish wit h soaked basil seeds and ser ve at room temperature

by Rebecca Baugniet

Chef Sur vival Challenge

At Madrona Farm, chefs work together for farmland conservation

As you walk down the long driveway that leads into Madrona Farm, you can’t help but marvel “only five minutes ago, I was in the city.” The 27 acre property on Blenkin sop is definitely an urban farm, yet the tranquility and surrounding rural vistas deceive you into thinking you’ve left the city miles behind There is something magical about it Equally magical is the story of this farm’s survival More than two years of constant campaigning and close to 4,500 individual donors ensured that Madrona Farm would be saved by The Land Conservancy and remain in agricultural production in perpe tuity

One of the central fundraising efforts in the fight to save Madrona was the Chef Survival Challenge, and the event continues to take place even though the farm’s fu ture is secure. Inspired by their own success story, Nathalie Chambers (one half of the current farming couple on the property), joined TLC and is now heading their Native Pollinator Enhancement Project and continuing to fundraise for their agriculture pro grams TLC’s goal with these programs is to protect farmland for farming, create ac cess for farmers, make farming more viable, and protect the native biodiversity with a respect for the inter dependent nature of agriculture and the environment The Chef Survival Challenge channels 100 percent of the proceeds from the event directly to farmland conservation, bolstering TLC’s agriculture program

The other reason for continuing the Chef Survival Challenge is that it’s just a whole lot of fun What other event lets you watch the region’s top chefs go head to head in a demanding obstacle course, row furiously out to “Condiment Island” to collect their kit, race around a farm in frantic search of ingredients and then produce a five star meal on a camping stove? Chef Sean Brennan of Brasserie L’Ecole is the leader chef for this year’s event and is looking forward to the day (despite telling me unequivocally how much he dreads the obstacle course) Brennan joined the effort because he feels it is important for chefs to be part of the circle creating awareness “A lot of people don’t know that TLC is involved in protecting farmland ” He explains the unique re lationship that forms between chefs and their suppliers and believes that chefs have a role to play in protecting the land that provides them with quality products So what does he like best about the challenge? “The camaraderie among chefs you don’t find it like that at any other events ”

The 4t h Annual Chef Sur vival Challeng e will t ake place at Madrona Far m on Sunday, October 2nd, 2011, from noon to 6pm. Tickets are $50 per person/ $100 per family, and are now available at the Madrona Farm Vegetable Stand, 4217 Blenkinsop Road This family friendly event will be emceed by David Cubberly and fully catered by John Brooks of Smoken Bones and John Pulker. The event will include live local music, food demos, a BC craf t beer tasting garden and cof fee provided by Caf fe Fantastico Cheer on the region's finest chefs as they compete to find the best ingredients on the farm, t hen bid on t he meals t hey creat e. Pr izes and gif t cer tif icat es from par ticipating restaurants will be given away as well! For more information, visit www chefsur vivalchallenge com

Clever, handsome, meticulous, fun and tasty is how I describe Vis à Vis, the Vic Pub Co.’s newest addition to its fleet. But wait, this small plates wine and charcuterie eatery isn’t another Goliath pub This time it’s a little classy, cozy and delicious nook in Oak Bay (I can stop missing the Oak Bay Beach Hotel’s long defunct Snug a little less now) Exposed brick, angled gilded mirrors and a deep bar invite you to sit happily solo with a glass and perhaps a plate of the soft, garnet coloured, air dried bresaola or the dense and luxurious pork rillette with artisan bread

Thanks to the fancy Enomatic Wine Preservation System, guests can enjoy 24 table wines by the glass The wine program was developed by sommelier Erika Staffanson and the bar is run by Stephen Quigley Wines are offered in one , five and eight ounce pours. Flights are offered, and my server customized a “big and bold” for me. The glass arrives with a small ring of paper noting the specific wine All the better to recall it at the Vic Pub Co ’s store across the street on your way home

I tried the grilled asparagus, radish, pecorino and black truffle pudding The presentation was busy yet careful and creative. The pudding, an even slash of black, was the flavour and visual foundation for the dish The pale pecorino and red rimmed radish were ever so thinly sliced and the grilled asparagus was still solid and brilliant green The truffle was as earthy, subtle and bass as it could muster The flavours and textures the creamy pudding, the waifish crunch of the radish, the saltiness of the pecorino were many but wove into a pleasing vegetable dish.

Next I sampled the pork belly with grapefruit, endive and maple onion caramel I did not want to share it This was the first pork belly I have enjoyed that was not mostly

fatty, but the shift away meant that it was, well, porkier, and stood well against the grapefruit and maple onion caramel especially.

The seared scallop with salted liquorice glaze and fennel purée was beautiful and well made But it was a bit too sweet for me, and I found the liquorice somewhat overbearing for the tender scallop The crisp sweetbreads with apple butter, watercress and bacon dressing was a good one to share, and, again, the balance of textures and opposing flavours worked well But it was the lingcod confit with soft egg yolk, English peas and potato purée that really impressed me The whole egg yolk, not quite hard, was bulbous and glistening atop the potato puree debecked with peas And the lingcod was fantastic salty, solid, gorgeous Chef Jens Larsen has really brought a wide array of flavours, textures and goodness to the menu.

Vis à vis means “face to face,” something one might better apprehend when you enter the bathroom and come face to face with a large pig’s head Large Staring at you with its big, humanoid eye The rest of her body stands outside the bathroom on a bench It is unsettling, but you do get used to it. Vis à vis can also mean “a date at a social affair,” or “a person of equal authority, rank, or the like” and it is from these that I warm to the name, much like I warmed to the staff who were not only very skilled and well versed on the meals but were so genuinely enthusiastic about being there that they created their own collective vibe as they worked seamlessly together.

A friend invited me to Vis à Vis again tonight. That will be three times in a week and a half There has never been any reason to go to Oak Bay that often unless you live there Nicely done and thank you Gillie Easdon

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Village Butcher | 20 32 Oak Bay Ave., Victoria | 250-598-1115

You might not be able to buy a meat dress at The Village Butcher, but the shop is stocked with everything else carnivores crave Partners Rebecca Teskey and Michael Windle break down locally raised animals into high quality meaty morsels and have successfully merged the concept of an old fashioned butcher shop with modern, 100 mile diet awareness

As a female butcher, Teskey is a rarity “I don’t need to use brute strength I finesse ever ything Like an ant,” says the slender 34 year old, who looks like a teenager Teskey, a former chef, became Windle’s partner in 2010 after apprenticing with him at the shop’s former location “I was always interested in learning the craft As a chef, I felt the more I could do myself, the more control I had over what I produced We can advise customers because everyone who works for us has cooking experience, and we do custom cutting for people who come in with cookbooks in hand.”

“It’s a veal,” says the exuberant Windle, pointing at some sizeable legs aging in the meat locker. Lambs and rabbits raised by Sooke and Gulf Island farmers are humanely processed (slaughtered) at the Village Butcher’s abattoir in Metchosin Everything else is processed in Duncan and broken down in the shop’s spacious backroom.

Teskey and Windle make beef, turkey and chicken stock, fifteen types of pork, lamb, beef and turkey sausages (including blood pudding), wet cured bacon and ham, and pig’s ear dog treats They sell chicken, duck and quail eggs from Sooke and haggis made in White Rock (by request). They render fat from ducks and leaf lard from pigs which they sell as baking lard

“We are ethical carnivores who praise the lard,” says Windle. “Our products have the highest nutrition because the animals have lived a natural lifestyle, roaming and eating native plants.” The pride they take in their craftsmanship and the joy they derive from creating superb products is unmistakable

“We’re committed to being the intermediaries between local farmers and our customers We’ve done the leg work, so customers don’t have to wonder how the animals were raised,” Windle explains.

Sylvia Weinstock

Par tners Rebecca Teskey and Michael Windle at the newly relocated Village Butcher

Hilary’s

Artisan Cheese | 1034 Fort St., Victoria | 250 388 5810

It was a surprise and a delight to find that Hilar y’s Artisan Cheese had added a Victoria location at the past venue of Plenty on Fort Street. In kind with their family and community focus, Hilar y’s Artisan Cheese also carries an array of Cowichan Valley and local products, including Lisa’s Own jellies and pickles (Lisa Newman, a Cowichan Bay local whose lovely preserves are only found at Hilary’s two locations and True Grain Bread) Organic Fare chocolate, Fol Epi bread and Vancouver Island Salt Co salt

But back to the cheese, please I selected the You Boo Blue and the Red Dawn from Hillary’s and a washed rind cheddar from Blackburn in Jonquières, Quebec The blue was mild, creamy with a rich bloom of pungency that was subtler than most blues I have wrestled. It was very easy in a pleasing fashion. Fresh and elementary. Perfect for large gatherings and solitary nibblings The Red Dawn, a washed rind using Cherry Point’s Solera Blackberry Dessert Wine, was a mild Oka style Tasty as well, though much more innocent than the stinky gooey “porn” cheese that I fall hard for The Red Dawn was supposed to make it until the next day for a boat trip. It didn’t. The Blackburn was arresting, rich, biting, a bit footy and also did not make it for that boat trip Hilary’s Artisan Cheese carries an array of local BC, artisan Quebec and Spanish French and Italian cheeses

A warm welcome to Hilary’s Artisan Cheese, the newest addition to my cheese crawl. by Gillies Easdon

EDITOR’S CHOICE

This event is organized by t he Victoria Downtown Public Market Society in suppor t of t he re es t ablishment of a year round, indoor local produce public mar ke t f or downtown Victoria Eat Here Now is a FREE, family friendly festival taking place from 11am 4pm on Sep t 11 in Spir it (Cent ennial) Sq uare f eatur ing some of t he bes t f ar mers, f ishers, butchers, bakers, processors and restaurants in the region. (www.victoriapublicmarket.com)

R e b e c c a W e l l m a n

And through the pretty Fort Street window, I spot her I choose Red Dawn The washed rind I want her Hilar y’s Artisan Cheese has long been part of my beloved day trip around the Cowichan Bay loop that also includes True Grain Bread, dainties from the Saison Market Vineyard and sometimes a visit to Teafarm The focus is always the cheese, though

Eating Well for Less

by Elizabeth Smyth

Pescatore’s | 614 Humboldt St. | 250 385 4512

Lunch is a great time to get a taste of Pescatore’s before deciding to come back for a more opulent dinner. The restaurant offers daily “Blue Plate” specials for $12. When I visited in the summer, I sampled a white fish with corn chowder that was firmly in the more interesting than it sounds category The chowder was so thick I’d actually call it a stew of sweet corn, double smoked bacon, diced red potatoes and celery This was topped with melted cheddar and a piece of seared, moist seasonal fish halibut when I was there, and probably Pacific cod or snapper at other times. It was all topped with a thatch of roasted corn chips and a sprig of thyme on top It looked small but was actually quite rich and came with a basket of bread My favourite special, the albacore tuna pizza, is naan bread as a creative, tender base topped with house smoked albacore tuna, basil pesto made with toasted almonds, juicy, oven roasted Roma tomatoes, vibrantly green arugula, chopped chives, and a swirl of lemon garlic aioli The Trio of Seafood is good if you’re in a tapas mood Three delicacies are presented on a long rectangular plate The house smoked tuna loin has a reprise here in a cute reverse sandwich, with tuna enveloping a piece of crostini, presented on a small tumble of frisée with lemon tarragon vinaigrette In the centre is a brie stuffed Dungeness and King crab cake, which my server was proud to say is 98 percent crab; indeed, this patty tasted of the ocean, and not of a generic patty as can happen The final offering is a Mad Men throwback, a prawn in brandy sauce, the juices soaked up by a slice of French bread. If you want to prolong your lunch, I recommend the gooey, sticky, caramel almond bread pudding If you can manage to make your lunch last until 4 p m , ease straight into their “Buck a Shuck” raw oyster special, which goes from 4 to 5:30 You may never leave!

The Mint |1412 Douglas St. |250 590 4490

The Mint recently opened up a boite at the same address above the popular subter ranean restaurant where you might have been for dinner. The new space is spare and casually elegant, with clean, cool lines and distressed wood beams. And light, blessed light, as opposed to the downstairs dining room! The food format is basically this:

Pescatores: (l) Trio of Seafood (Shrimp scampi, crab cake, smoked tuna) (r) Albacore tuna pizza

curry boxes, wraps and sandwiches, and a few other bits and pieces The curry boxes are the classic Nepalese cuisine you’ll recognize from the main restaurant and can be taken out or eaten in. And they are a great deal: $9 for vegetable, $10 for butter chicken and $11 for lamb The lamb curry, a rich daub of boneless lamb, pineapple, apricots and tomato, is served over plentiful mustard greens seasoned with fenugreek On the side, a creamy dhal as well as jasmine rice and achar dahi, a yogurt and honey mix for toning down the heat. Dessert is an Indian gulab jamun, which they refer to jokingly as a Timbit soaked in syrup. It’s hard to understand why a person would order a sand wich when there’s such exciting food to try, but that’s another option here, all whole some and hearty My favourite is the roasted pork loin (brined in house) with apple slaw The chicken curry wrap is large and delicious Butter chicken is combined with the surprise of mango, some yogurt, fresh cilantro, red onion and rice for $6.50. Or try pairing what’s essentially a platter of house salad at $5 50 with “choyela,” at $6, an in triguing dish of beef tenderloin that is grilled and then marinated in a puree of lime, garlic, ginger, chili, paprika, cumin, turmeric, cilantro and more Add on a bargain of a chai at $3.25 for 16 ounces and you have an intriguing meal for not much money.

Adriana’s packs a lot of possibilities into a small space Essentially, it’s a deli with a counter, and most people get food to take away for lunch and pick up a casserole for dinner. However, the space is appealing, with bright light, walls of deep orange and green, and a sunflower motif There are three daily specials, and on the day of my visit, these were a chicken chipotle with yam supertaco, enchiladas with mole sauce, and yam pastries The soft supertaco was plump with yams, flavourful with chipotle and very filling for $8. The two enchiladas with mole sauce was an exotic choice for $8 50 There are no fewer than 22 ingredients in the mole, including apricots, plums, raisins, nuts, sesame seeds, banana, tomato, cinnamon and, of course, cacao A vege tarian enchilada with zucchini, yam and corn is also available The yam pastries are light, flaky and naturally sweet. Or try the taquitos appetizer, four for $6.25. Aside from being crisp and savoury as they should be, they are pretty to boot, served with a dab of sparkling fresh salsa and a pink dash of aioli chipotle sauce If you want to be really strategic, order them Fridays on special when you get six for the same price This is the go to dish if you are there with small children. The Chicken Azteca Pie for $9 is fun to try. Adriana describes it as a “Mexican lasagna” with corn tortillas replac

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G R E AT G A R D E N DINNER

Oh, the bounty of early autumn! Our urban farm gardens are bursting with the last of the season’s best. It’s a fun time of year to cook – whole meals are designed around what needs to be pulled up from the garden all those fragrant herbs, last ripe eggplants and peppers dangling precariously and of course tomatoes even the green ones! Har vest, cook, eat most of all.....enjoy!

Recipes and food styling by JENNIFE R DANTE R • Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY • Wine pairing by TREVE RI NG

Sweet & Savoury Sausage Roast Bunches of fresh sage harvested from the garden

Blackberry, Basil & Apple Crisps

This is an out with the old, in with the new crumble A glorious mix of late summer blackberries with the seasons’ freshest apples Don’t worry if you don’t have any blackberries you can make it with all apple or mix in pear or any summer berries or fruit you have stashed in the freezer.

Topping

3/4 cup all purpose flour

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup brown sugar

2 Tbsp chopped fresh basil

1 tsp ground cinnamon

1/2 cup cold butter, cut into cubes

1/2 cup large flake oats

Filling

4 unpeeled apples, chopped

4 cups black berries

1/3 cup sugar

2 tsp cornstarch

1 orange

For the topping, in a food processor, whirl flour with sugars, cinnamon and basil. Pulse in butter until coarse crumbs form

Turn into a bowl and stir in oats

For the filling, toss apples with blackberries, sugar and cornstarch. Grate in 1 tsp peel from orange, then squeeze in juice Toss to mix

Turn into a pie plate and place on a baking sheet. Evenly sprinkle with oat topping Bake in preheated 375F oven until deeply browned and fruit is bubbly, 35 to 40 minutes. If topping is brown ing too quickly, loosely cover with a piece of foil

Sweet & Savoury Sausage Roast

It’s time to turn away from the grill and heat up the kitchen at least fill it with tantalizing aromas of good things roasting away in the oven This isn’t an exact recipe more of an idea and an easy one at that Visit your butcher (Love the choices at The Village Butcher) and buy an assortment of links. Roast ‘em up with sweet juicy pears (or apples) and onions along with generous splashes of tart vinegar to cut through the roasty richness

What to Do

Make a few slashes in each sausage. Arrange on a large baking sheet (use 2 if necessary). Toss wedges of red onion and pear (peel on; core out) with generous splashes of olive oil and vinegar (tr y balsamic, wine or fruit based vinegar) Crumble in a few sprigs of fresh thyme, then vigorously toss together. Sprinkle around sausages. Roast in preheated 475F oven until sausages are cooked through and onions and moltenly soft, 18 to 25 minutes

Sagey Smashed Potatoes

If you don’t have whole small potatoes, cut larger ones into smaller chunks But then you miss out smashing!

2 lbs baby or nugget potatoes

3 Tbsp olive oil

Sea salt, to taste

1 handful fresh sage leaves, torn Rosemary sprigs (optional)

Boil whole potatoes (don’t forget to salt water to bring out flavour) until almost tender, 15 to 18 minutes Drain, then place on a cutting board Using the flat side of a chef knife, gently smash Toss potatoes (be sure to gather up any stray potato bits) with oil, salt, sage and rosemary Spread out on a baking sheet Roast in preheated 475F oven until crispy, 8 to 10 minutes

Rustic Ratatouille

It’s time to clean out the garden: that glut of zucchini, whatever bell peppers (a mix of colour looks pretty) are still around, tomatoes, eggplant and lots of garlic Herb it up with a mixture of fresh greens but don’t overwhelm the dish this is all about those clean fresh vegetable flavours melding together. Dish it up warm or at room temperature for a hearty fall salad of sorts. Have good bread on hand for mashing the pasty garlic from the roasted cloves

6 to 8 whole garlic cloves, unpeeled

2 zucchini, cut into rounds

2 red or yellow bell peppers, coarsely chopped

1 green bell pepper, coarsely chopped

1 small eggplant, cut into thick strips

3 Tbsp olive oil

1Tbsp coriander seeds

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

6 to 8 tomatoes, skinned and coarsely chopped or crushed

Generous handfuls of torn basil leaves, cilantro or parsley (or a mix)

Toss garlic cloves, zucchini, peppers and eggplant with oil, coriander seeds, salt, and pepper Spread out on 1 or 2 baking sheets and roast in preheated 475F oven until tender, about 15 minutes

Turn onto a large platter and add tomatoes. Sprinkle with basil and drizzle with more oil, as needed.

WINE PAIRING

It probably was possibly the most anticipated opening in Vancouver restaurant history When David Hawksworth left his executive chef position at West in 2008 to open his own restaurant, he couldn’t have anticipated the many and lengthy (almost three years) delays that would occur before the doors could finally open at what is now the Rosewood Hotel Georgia.

Good things come to those who wait and cater on the side and the restaurant stoves are finally lit The stunning room (designed by Alessandro Munge of Munge & Leung) reflects the simplicity and elegance of the fare Monochromatic walls in the main dining area are layered with subtle texture reminiscent of Japanese line drawings, as well as installations by artists such as Rodney Graham. The massive crystal shard chandelier reflects a soft light off the multi coffered ceiling, and the glassed in wine room is a feast for both eye and palate

In fact, wine plays such an important part that, in addition to the loving ministrations of Wine Director Terr y Threlfall (formerly of Chez Bruce and West), the restaurant has a team of sommeliers to help you choose between two ounce tasters, five ounce glasses and full bottles from the seasonally rotating list.

As with the design, the food is deceptively simple The “contemporar y Canadian” menu is reminiscent of Hawksworth’s time at West Local, seasonal ingredients are showcased in clean, simple plates with hints of the Far East Roasted tomato and fennel soup with spot prawns and bacon bits ($12) is at once clean and smoky. Yellowfin tuna carpaccio ($17) is laid out in beautiful, large, thin sheets over cucumber and Asian pear salad, with crackly puffed rice and charred avocado Olive oil poached

An Anticipated

Opening, Top Chef Canada & A Roman Homage

By Anya Levykh, Photos by T Kusiewicz

salmon ($29) sits over a bed of lightly cooked Indian cucumbers and eggplant caviar that is pureed with squid ink, for a slightly briny and tart accompaniment A favourite was the Yarrow Meadows duck breast ($30), with crispy skin, sided by some confit leg wrapped in Savoy cabbage. Yogurt panna cotta was a bit runny for my taste, but had a luscious creaminess that was well set off by the fresh chunks of mixed citrus, grapefruit sorbet and Earl Grey meringue fingers Ensemble 850 Thurlow St. | 604.569.1770 | www.ensemblerestaurant.com

I wasn’t sure what to expect when I walked through the door of Ensemble Owner and executive chef Dale MacKay has opened restaurants for Gordon Ramsay and Daniel Boulud, and is also the winner of

a delicately pickled kimchi and crunchy cashews ($13) was a playful contrast between savoury and spice, rich and tart, silk and crunch And fresh pavlova with lightly stewed cherries, basil puree, white chocolate vanilla cream, lemon yogurt sorbet and candied ginger shards ($9) was a mar vellous compote of flavours, with each element contributing to an exotic symphony on the buds This ensemble definitely deserves several encores

Campagnolo Roma

2297 East Hastings St. | 604.569.0456 | www.campagnoloroma.com

The room definitely pleases, with frosted glass tables edged in distressed wood, comfy red leather chairs, and a shiny black, segmented wall feature behind the bar. The service is smart, polished and friendly (with many former DB Bistro and Lumière faces, both in front and back of house) As for the food, it more than lives up to the hype All dishes are designed for sharing and range between $8 and $24 MacKay is a chef who likes to push palate bound aries, and he does it with startling panache and an extensive use of the French techniques he so loves

A foie gras sundae was a heady experience. Creamy celeriac puree was layered with apricot jelly and whipped foie gras, then drizzled with red wine reduction and sprinkled with hazelnut bits and stewed apricot chunks Ser ved with toasty warm waffle triangles, it’s a dish I’ll come back for again and again Five spice pork belly with

It’s fitting that the Campagnolo/Refuel team that is Tom Doughty and Robert Belcham has opened their homage to classic Roman fare on this formerly dumpy stretch of East Hastings On the same block is Schokolade Artisan Chocolate Café, The Red Wagon and Moccia Meats, to name a few Campo Roma, as the locals call it, has a menu that is similar to big sister Campagnolo on Main, in that both focus on casual Italian, but there the similarities end. Roma menu focuses on the slightly more briny and earthy flavours of the Eternal City and surrounding Lazio region

The walk in only room is a good place to share a pizza, like the biancoverde ($12), a simple concoction of fresh mozza, arugula and green olives over a creamy lemon base A trio of marinated eggplant bruschetta ($8 50) are heavily invested with local mushrooms, pine nuts, buffalo mozza and olive oil. A colourful green salad courtesy of Glorious Organics ($12) is topped with a light “confit” lemon vinaigrette, and the whipped ricotta with smoky sea salt ($6) is airy, creamy goodness that is inhaled off the spoon Honey panna cotta (is panna cotta the new “it” dessert?) with fennel crumble and rhubarb compote ($8) boasts a thick, smooth texture, slightly sweet, with just the right amount of spice in the crumble.

Chef Canada on Food Network TV How would a history of high wire haute cuisine translate into this ostensibly more affordable and accessible creation?

Roma’s chef Ted Anderson w/ Honey Panna Cotta

Dale MacKay w/Foie Gras Sundae

David Hawkswor th w/Olive Oil Poached Salmon

Dan Hayes has fish cred He earned that cred by working for some of the top seafood chefs (Rick Stein, Mitchell Tonks) in the UK gutting, scaling, skinning and cooking every known and obscure fish that was served in their London restaurants And now Hayes is campaigning to put all the wasted fish, unintentionally caught as bycatch in the BC commercial and sport fisheries, to better use Specifically, he is talking about the unloved dogfish, a particularly nasty looking, difficult to breakdown, small shark found in west coast waters

Says Hayes, “If you want to look at sustainability, people will look at dogfish and see it’s black listed because it’s susceptible to over fishing, but the fact is these fish are already being caught in the commercial fishery and are dead Until the methods of fishing are improved, dogfish will continue to be caught and discarded as trash They can’t be thrown back. So I say, let’s use them.”

British Columbians aren’t eating all these dogfish and Hayes has an idea as to why. “It’s not an easy fish to deal with Possibly, one of the main reasons that dogfish isn’t utilized is it’s not salmon, it’s not halibut you can’t just slap it on a grill It’s quite hard to

prepare You have to skin it and peel it, but once you get there, you’re fine ”

In the UK, dogfish is known as Huss or Rock Salmon They are often used in fish ‘n’ chips “It stays very moist,” says Hayes, “while halibut can dry out during frying ” I watch as Hayes demonstrates how to clean and prepare dogfish. Although tricky to work with (“you need to know its anatomy”), once the fillets are prepped you have a beautiful, fresh fish that resembles a long, white with an almost pinkish tinge, eel Hayes is cooking two of his favourite recipes using dogfish for me the first is his take on a British style fish fry; the other is an Italian inspired, dogfish osso buco. When I taste the results, I’m impressed The fish is delicious soft, delicate and moist and I’m amazed we don’t eat more of it

“I think the important thing to remember about using dogfish is we aren’t cubing up rubbish and trying to make the most of it; it’s really, really good. It’s an excellent fish.”

• Buy it at Satellite Fish Co Ltd 2550 Beacon Ave, Sidney, BC, 250 656 2642 Call ahead to find out when the boats are coming in Or watch the London Chef website for upcoming classes thelondonchef com

Text by GARY HYNES • Photography by PETE R BAGI

Pictured: photos #1 5 Chef Dan Hayes preps the dogfish #6 finished steaks #7 panko breaded fish being fried in oil #8 Crisp Dogfish #9 Osso Buco

Fish

Fillets from 1 medium, or 2 small, skinned dogfish

Panko breadcrumbs

2 eggs, beaten with a splash of milk ½ cup of all purpose flour

Flaked sea salt

Fresh ground black pepper

Canola oil

Cut the fillets of dogfish into bite size pieces (goujons) and dredge first in flour, then in the egg mixture, and last in the panko breadcrumbs, pressing the crumbs firmly onto the fish to coat Fry until golden brown in small batches in hot canola oil Drain on paper towels then season heavily with sea salt and a pinch of fresh black pepper

Mushy Pea Puree

3 cups peas, fresh or thawed frozen (drain off any excess water)

Unsalted butter

¼ white onion, chopped fine

1 cup chicken stock

2 mint sprigs with leaves

Sea salt to taste

Take the leaves off the mint stalks and set aside Over low temperature, sweat the chopped onion in a knob of butter Season with salt then add the peas, stock, and mint stalks Bring to a slight simmer, then drain and discard half the liquid and remove the mint stalks. Chop the reserved mint leaves and add to the pan along with a big knob of butter. Blend in a food processor until smooth. Serve either warm or at room temperature

Tartar

Aubergine

1308

Sauce

2 Tbsp. baby dill pickles, diced

2 Tbsp. capers, diced

1 tsp. shallot, diced

1 tsp mustard

3 egg yolks

2 cups vegetable oil

2 tsp. white wine vinegar

In a large, round bottom bowl place the egg yolks, mustard and vinegar. Using a whisk, combine these ingredients well, and then begin whisking harder and drip in the oil a few drops at a time (You are now making mayonnaise ) Add the diced ingredients, mix well and refrigerate To serve, plate the fish and the mushy peas Serve tartar sauce in small bowls/ramekins

DogFish

Steaks

Cooked as Osso Bucco

Bone in steaks from 1 medium or two small, skinned dogfish

3 garlic cloves

½ onion, finely chopped

3 ripe plum tomatoes, roughly chopped

2 Tbsp. crushed tomato

2 anchovy fillets, in oil

1 glass of dry, white wine (6 oz )

1 lemon

1 bunch of Italian flat leaf parsley

Sweat the onion in a large skillet in some olive oil with a large pinch of sea salt until golden. Add chopped tomatoes, crushed tomatoes and anchovy and cook for a few minutes, stirring until well combined Add the wine, bring to a boil and cook for 1 2 minutes to remove the alcohol, and then reduce heat to a simmer

Finely chop half the parsley and half the garlic, mix together and add to the pan Add the fish steaks, turn a few times to coat, cover and cook on low heat for 20 minutes Add half a glass of water if the mixture becomes too dry while cooking

Using a knife, or lemon zester, thinly cut away some peel from the lemon (about ¼), making sure to remove all the white pith. Place on a board with the remaining garlic and parsley Finely chop the mixture to form a gremolata

Serve the fish steaks with its cooking juices in a large bowl and sprinkle with gre molata Enjoy with lots of crusty bread and wine

Specialty Foods

Avenue Victoria, British Columbia

SOUP STARS

Text and food styling by DENISE MARCHESSAULT

Photography by C AROLI NE WEST

When the weather turns damp and chilly, is there anything more comforting than a steaming bowl of soup? I love soup and there’s nothing I enjoy more than inviting friends over for a smorgasbord of soup, a soupfest if you will, that’s as delicious as it is warming. Forget about fussing with delicate appetizers and fretting over what goes with this and that With a few pots of soup warming on the stove, you’ll need little else but a couple of baguettes and a bottle of wine to take off the chill Dessert? An assortment of cheese and some ripe juicy pears will do nicely. I’m talking casual, cozy sweater kind of entertaining.

Mastering soup is one of those practical life skills; when soup is part of your cooking repertoire, you’ll never want for a nourishing meal. You’ll learn to transform all those leftovers in the fridge into something inspired and fresh: chicken pot pie filling becomes a luscious chicken soup with rice and lemon; roasted corn is transformed into a sweet and silky purée; braised lamb is tossed into minestrone The variations are endless I’ve included three of my favourite soup recipes to get you started

The key to good soup lies in its very foundation the stock and homemade stock makes for the tastiest soup I’m not suggesting you can’t make perfectly good soup with the boxed variety You can, but you’ll notice a big difference when you use your own stock. It’s like comparing butter to margarine; they both do the trick but one is much tastier (and better for you) than the other

Soup is ideal for casual, cozy sweater kind of entertaining.

You may consider making stock too time consuming, but it’s mostly a hands off affair once you have everything in your stockpot For some, preparing stock is an annual event with the holiday turkey carcass tossed into a pot of water with some onions, carrots, and celery There’s nothing wrong with that method, but if you really want to boost the flavour of your stock, use raw meaty bones that are still full of flavour Go a step further and roast the bones before you add them to the pot and you’ll have an incomparable, rich, roasted stock high in umami (chef speak for that elusive taste sensation referred to as savoury or pure yumminess)

I’ve included a recipe for an easy roasted chicken stock. You’ll want to make enough to stash extra in the freezer because good stock is the secret behind a myriad of dishes, including braised meat, risottos and just about every sauce imaginable Having it on hand will amp up the flavour of your food appreciably.

Infusing minestrone with smoky kielbasa sausage and a hunk of savour y Parmesan rind (yet another source of umami) gives this soup loads of depth and flavour. Pasta is cooked separately and added just before ser ving because who wants swollen soggy pasta in their soup? I garnish the minestrone with freshly chopped spinach (no cooking required), shaved Parmesan and a piquant dollop of pistou made of jalapeño peppers, lime, raw shallots and cilantro Apples, pears and squash are a flavourful trio and luscious when blended into a silky purée The roasted squash soup is finished with a tangy blue cheese cream and topped with roasted squash seeds

No soup repertoire is complete without a classic French onion soup. This heady soup is made of slowly caramelized onions, deglazed with cognac and finished with a slice of crusty bread with a generous melting of Gruyere cheese on top It’s a meal in itself Once you’ve mastered stocks and soup, you’ll be heading off to the market, sans recipe, to create your own soupfest Soup’s on! B Y O B (Bring Your Own Bowl)

WINE PAIRING

An excellent match to soup can of ten be found in Sherr y Higher alcohol creates a textural contrast t hat makes the pairing interesting Look for dr yer Finos for the French Onion, and echo the Roasted Squash with a nuttier Palo Cor tado, or slightly sweeter style, like Oloroso. The briny finish and acidity make them ver y food friendly For t he Minestrone, I would look for a light and fruity Chianti juicy, bright and red fruited to match t he tomato base Treve Ring

“

The secret to this heady French onion soup is the slow caramelized onions and dark roasted chicken stock.

Minestrone gets a vibrant kick from a zesty jalapeno and lime pistou.

MINESTRONE SOUP WITH PISTOU

I always make a huge batch of minestrone because it’s a crowd pleaser and it freezes beautifully. You can easily halve the recipe and tinker with the ingredients; there are no rules with this soup, so get creative! Makes 12 servings

2 onions, chopped

4 slices of bacon, chopped

2 Tbsp olive oil, plus more as needed

2 3 cups green cabbage, finely chopped

2 cloves of garlic, minced

3 carrots, peeled and diced

10 cups roasted chicken stock, preferably homemade

GARNISHES

1 1 1/2 lbs (453 680 grams) smoky kielbasa sausage

4 ripe tomatoes or 1 can (14.5 ounces) of plum tomatoes

1 1/2 cups dry navy beans, soaked and precooked

1 bundle of fresh thyme and parsley stems, tied with kitchen string

2 bay leaves

Parmesan rind, if available

1 1/2 cups of small pasta shells, cooked separately

1/2 cup of Parmesan cheese, shaved with a vegetable peeler

1 bunch fresh spinach, chopped

Pistou (recipe below)

In a large pot, sauté onions and bacon in oil until the onions are translucent and the bacon is cooked through Add the cabbage and sauté it in the rendered fat at medium high heat for about 5 minutes, or until the cabbage takes on a bit of colour. (The browning of the cabbage adds to the flavour ) Add the garlic, carrots and celery and mix well, being mindful that garlic burns quickly If there is excess fat in the pan, remove it with a spoon before adding the stock, kielbasa, tomatoes, cooked beans, herbs, bay leaves and Parmesan rind (if using).

Simmer the soup until the cabbage and the carrots are just tender, but not overcooked Adjust the seasoning with additional salt, if required Remove the herb bundle and the bay leaves

Just before serving, remove the sausage and cut it into bite sized pieces Add a few pieces of sausage and a spoonful of freshly cooked pasta to heated soup bowls. Ladle the soup over the sausage and pasta and add to each serving a generous spoonful of pistou, shaved Parmesan and freshly chopped (raw) spinach Add freshly ground pepper, if desired

PISTOU

1 small shallot, chopped

1 2 serrano peppers, sliced in half

1 cup cherry tomatoes

1 large bunch cilantro, washed, stems removed

1/3 cup grapeseed oil

Juice from 1 lemon or lime

Salt to taste

In a food processor, purée the raw shallot, hot peppers, cherry tomatoes and cilantro Add the oil in a slow steady stream Season well with lime (or lemon) juice and salt This flavourful sauce should be quite piquant; add additional lime and salt to taste

FRENCH ONION SOUP

I’ve used just about every type of onion for this soup Feel free to use whatever onions you have on hand Makes 6 servings

2 Tbsp unsalted butter

2 Tbsp olive oil

5 medium onions (about 3 lbs), sliced

Pinch of dried thyme, or a sprig of fresh thyme

2 Tbsp cognac or dry sherry

6 cups beef or roasted chicken stock, preferably homemade Salt and pepper (to taste)

6 slices of French bread, toasted if fresh 1 1/2 cups grated Gruyere cheese

Melt the butter and oil in a Dutch oven or heavy bottomed soup pot over medium low heat Add the onions and thyme and stir to coat (It may appear as if you have too many onions for your pot, but they will reduce signficantly.)

Cook, stirring occasionally until the onions start to brown, about 15 minutes Reduce the heat and continue to cook, covered, stirring often, until the onions are a rich brown colour, about 40 minutes

Stir in the cognac (or sherr y) and increase the heat to high and cook, stirring constantly, until all the alcohol has evaporated Stir in the stock and bring to a boil and simmer, partially covered, for about 20 minutes Season with salt and pepper

Ladle the hot soup into oven proof bowls. Top each serving with a slice of French bread and a generous grating of Gruyere cheese. Broil or bake in a 450°F oven until the cheese is melted

ROASTED SQUASH SOUP WITH APPLE AND PEAR

Makes 6 8 servings.

*The seeds can be reserved, toasted and used as a soup garnish if desired

2 medium acorn squash, quartered and seeds removed*

3 carrots, peeled and chopped into large chunks

2 Tbsp vegetable oil

1 apple, preferably Golden Delicous, peeled, cored and diced

2 Tbsp unsalted butter

1 onion, peeled and diced

1 large ripe pear (Bartlett or Bosc),

Preheat the oven to 350°F

cored and diced

4 cups roasted chicken stock, preferably homemade Kosher salt

1 cup 35% cream

100 grams (3.5 ounces) of mild blue cheese (I like Rosenborgh Castello’s Mel low Blue brand)

Toasted pumpkin or squash seeds, if desired (method below)

In a medium bowl, toss the carrots in 1 Tbsp of the vegetable oil and place them on a foil lined baking tray Brush the squash with the remaining oil and place on the same tray. Roast the vegetables for about an hour turning them occasionally for even browning. Remove the vegetables when they can easily be pierced with a fork. (The carrots will be done first ) When the squash has cooled, scoop the pulp from the squash and discard the skin

Melt the butter in a soup pot over medium heat and add the diced apple Cook the apple until it turns soft and just starts to colour. Add the chopped onion and cook until the onion is translucent

In a blender or a food processor fitted with a steel blade, add the roasted carrots and squash, sautéed apples and onions, diced pear, 2 cups of the chicken stock and a couple of generous pinches of kosher salt. Process until smooth, adding enough re maining stock to achieve the desired consistency. Taste the soup and check the sea soning, adding more salt if necessary

If you prefer a velvety textured soup, pour the puréed soup through a fine mesh strainer Transfer the soup to a saucepan and reheat Ser ve in heated bowls with a generous swirl of blue cheese cream (recipe follows) and a few toasted squash (or pumpkin seeds) if desired

BLUE CHEESE CREAM

In a small saucepan, gently melt the blue cheese in the warm cream. Do not boil.

TOASTED SQUASH SEEDS

Rinse the squash seeds to remove the fibres Toast the cleaned seeds on a lightly oiled baking sheet in a 350°F oven until crisp and lightly golden, turning occasionally. Sprinkle with salt while still warm.

For Denise’s recipe for Roasted Chicken Stock go to www.eatmagazine.ca and type “Roasted Chicken Stock” into Search.

100% handcrafted in BC

PINOT NOIR

Fragrant, complex and elegant, Pinot Noir is also prone to fits of temper. But that doesn’t stop Miicheelle e Bouuffarrd and M Michhaeela a Moorris from loving the heartbreak grape.

One of the most common questions we are asked is: “What is your favourite wine?” We evade it by retorting that this is like asking someone to choose their favourite child. But if pressed, we admit that Pinot Noir is responsible for some of our most moving wine experiences We both have our own love story with Pinot Noir, and these are intrinsically linked with how we were lured into the wine industry This doesn’t mean we have fallen in love with every Pinot Noir that has passed our lips There is an enormous variety of expression and quality. To generalize broadly, Pinot is a lighter bodied wine with lighter tannin and higher acid than most reds Where it is grown and how a winemaker treats it has a huge impact on the result A Burgundy lover might just not be into Californian Pinot because they are so different The reverse could be true for aficionados of Cali Pinot Noir.

One of Pinot’s most alluring attributes is its potentially beautiful scent. The wine offers a wide spectrum of aromas from pure sweet fruit like crushed strawberries, rhubarb, raspberries, red cherries and cranberries to floral notes such as cherr y blossom, roses and violets. When it gains a bit of age and is grown on proper soil, it reveals spice, forest floor (aka sous bois), mushroom, autumn leaves and even truffle This combi nation of aromas can lead to unexpected emotions Pinot can be equally captivating on the palate. The silky texture caresses and the most complex Pinots possess layers and a minerality that lingers Much of that charm lies in its subtly Pinot Noir is capable of unparalleled elegance But it is also finicky, unforgiving and attention seeking Thin skinned, the grape is prone to rot and viruses in the vineyard and requires well drained soil and a cooler climate to show its best This means it often shows up in marginal climates where a poor vintage can render it tart and mean. Conversely, when too hot, the wine is jammy, stewy and alcoholic, lacking elegance and precision of aromas The grape is equally exasperating in the winery It doesn’t give its colour easily thus luring some winemakers into the trap of pushing it too hard, which of course it does not respond well to! Let’s be blunt, this wine is a prima donna. When good, Pinot Noir is very, very good and even life changing But when it is bad, it can be heartbreaking Thus the moniker “heartbreak grape ” That disappointment is most acute once you have experienced a fantastic Pinot moment You become obsessed with encountering it again only to end up spending too much money on one inadequate bottle after another (Pinots tend to be pricey ) “Why bother?” you might ask Because a breathtaking bottle is worth all of the pain

Pinot Noir’s homeland is Burgundy and it is here that it reaches its apogee It’s also where we first fell in love with it. The climate and the soil are just right for Pinot’s picky nature. It becomes a vehicle to express the terroir to such an extent that you forget that red Burgundy is made of Pinot Noir Within such a small area, there is an amazing diversity of expression, yet sadly quality varies just as much Many wines command prices that are far too high We long for the unrivalled grace of a Chambolle Musigny, and in our perfect world we would revel in the seduction and power of a Gevrey Chambertin 1er Clos Saint Jacques all the time (Preferably from Armand Rousseau, thank you very much ) However, we simply can’t afford these wines on a regular basis So when money is tight, we look elsewhere to get our Pinot fix

Winemakers around the globe have been bitten by the Pinot bug. Their stories have the same ring They experienced that life changing moment with a great bottle of Burgundy The infection is so strong that in many cases it has dictated the path a wine maker has chosen: to make Pinot Noir and try to coax that magic from it Few are so arrogant to claim they are replicating Burgundy. Rather they look there for inspiration. They understand that their unique soil and climate will inevitably craft a different wine Finding a cool site with good drainage is the first step Winemakers who follow the Pinot path are generally in it for the passion, not for the money, and they can only hope that the rewards will be worth the perseverance.

Similarly, we wine drinkers should not compare each Pinot we try with Burgundy. Though a pet peeve, we sheepishly admit to doing it ourselves But our experience in Argentina’s Uco Valley reminds us to embrace Pinot’s changing personalities that reflect where it is grown When visiting Zorzal in Tupungato, we were charmed by their Pinot Noir. Besides concen trated cherries, it exuded jarilla, a local plant with intox icating grilled herb and lemon aromas that had somehow found its way into the wine Besides being juicy, balanced, characterful and well priced, this wine spoke of its terroir. What else could we ask for? This is what wine is all about A comparison to Burgundy is just not appropriate

Pinot has triumphed in many regions throughout the world. The Willamette Valley of Oregon was hailed as the second coming of Burgundy Style is all over the place as this fairly new region continues to grow and develop itself Eyrie and Drouhin make more reserved Pinots that are akin to Burgundy, while Lemelson and Cristom’s wines are fuller and sturdier More recently, New Zealand has become recognized for its Pinot Noir especially from the regions of Martinborough and Central Otago Ata Rangi is a leader in the former while Felton Road and Rippon are superstars in the latter. You may think of Australia as a warm region, but vineyards at higher altitudes and closer to the sea are cool enough to host Pinot Look for the areas of Mornington Peninsula, Yarra Valley and Tasmania on the label and cross your fingers that we will see more wines from these regions.

South America has also entered the Pinot game and in Argentina winemakers have pinned their hope on Patagonia However, our experience suggests that this is not the only place where it can do well In Chile, the cooler Casablanca, Bio Bio and Leyda valleys are best suited to Pinot Noir. California’s Pinot sites are usually tempered by ocean fog: Carneros, Russian River, Sonoma Coast and Central Coast Finally, Pinot Noir is widely regarded as a grape with potential in our local vineyards, and many producers include one in their portfolio The short but generally hot season in the Okanagan Valley can be tricky for our pernickety friend, but there are success stories We have recently been impressed by offerings from Quails’ Gate and Tantalus in the Okanagan Valley From the Salt Spring Island, Garry Oaks Pinot Noir was also a lovely surprise

A Pinot epiphany will remind you what is so special about wine It is much more than just a drink It can bring emotion that you long to share with someone special We’ve had our hearts broken more than once, but we’ll keep searching for another great bottle

Pinot Noir grapes at CedarCreek Estate Winer y

Tasting Notes

The higher prices of the wines selected below are an indication of t he challenge in the vineyard and winer y to craf t quality Pinot

SPARKLING

nv Cave de Lugny, Brut Rosé, Crémant de Bourgogne AOC, France, $26 29*

Crémant de Bourgogne is a great alternative to more pricey champagne Light on its feet wit h nice rhubarb and strawberr y notes Don’t wait for a special occasion to treat yourself

nv Cédric Bouc hard, ‘Inflorescence’ Blanc de Noirs Brut, Champagne AOC, France, $90 95*

The ultimate when you want to celebrate Amazing structure wit h concentrated flavours of red currant, acacia and a light toast Great as an aperitif, digestif, af ternoon tipple or for breakfast!

RED

2008 Little Yering, Pinot Noir, Australia, $15 18

An af fordable introduction to delicate Pinot Simple but pleasing wit h c her r y and s trawberr y flavours Chill slightly and ser ve with chicken or tuna

2008 Kim Crawford, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand, $22 25

Besides making pungent Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough also produces some appealing Pinots Simple and light yet satisfying s trawberr y flavours make t his wine easily drinkable on its own Great value!

2009 Garr y Oaks, ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir, Gulf Islands VQA , B C , $24 27*

Another great surprise from beautiful B C Displays t he more delicate style of Pinot with cranberr y and cherr y flavours Delicate yet f irm tannin and acidity make it a great par tner wit h trout or poached salmon

2009 Quails’ Gate, Pinot Noir, Okanagan VQA , BC, $25 29

Quails’ Gate Pinots have improved steadily over t he last decade Expect charming, vibrant ripe c her r y and s tra wber r y f la vours wit h a sa vour y q uality A bsolut el y delicious wit h salmon in a strawberr y sauce

*Also look out for the Family Reser ve More pricey ($46 51), but well wor th the splurge

2009 Josef Chromy, Pinot Noir, Tasmania, Australia, $30 35

Aus tralia’s cooler region of Tasmania boas ts int eres ting Pinots wit h succulent pure red c her r y flavours The Aussies would drink t his with kangaroo; we opt for grilled albacore tuna

2006 Lucien Croc het, ‘La Croix du Roi’ Sancerre AOC, France, $4 4 49*

Known for its vibrant Sauvignon Blanc, t he region of Sancerre also craf ts a small amount of red made from 100 percent Pinot N oir Quality var ies, but Lucien Croc he t demons trat es how pleasing it can be Pure cherr y, raspberr y and vanilla with a pleasing ear thiness Hello roasted chicken!

2008 Radio Coteau ‘La Neblina’ Pinot Noir, Somoma Coast, California, $75 80*

The exotic combination of dried herbs, cherries and ear t hy notes brings us right back to our last visit to the winer y Passionate winemaker Eric Sussman craf ts a complex, full bodied expression of Pinot that can handle slightly heavier food Pork and duck it is!

2009 Felton Road, Pinot Noir, Bannoc kburn, Central Otago, New Zealand, $85 95*

We have a long love af fair with Felton Road and this gets our “ wow moment ” You will be seduced by delectable notes of wild thyme, cherr y and red plum Concentrated yet elegant and savour y, t his complex and fuller style of Pinot can easily handle venison and duck

Other producers to look for throughout the year; wines available in small quantities:

Oregon

Cristom, Cameron, Evesham Wood

Burgundy (wines from the highly touted 2009 vintage will arrive t his fall)

Per ro t Mino t, Ghislaine Bar t hod, Bouc hard Père & Fils, Louis Jado t, Dujac, Ar mand Rousseau, Br uno Clair, Tollo t Beault, Domaine des Lambra ys, Jean Gr ivo t, Yves Confuron

California

Talley, Au Bon Climat *Available

what to drink with that by Treve Ring

Which wine goes best with Pork a n d Clams?

The combination of pork and clams is a signature dish of Alentejo, the south central region of Portugal, and the kitchen at the Pousada dos Lóios, in the unspoiled provincial walled capital of Évora, makes a particularly memorable version. The pigs of the province dine on acorns, making the pork especially sweet, and the salty clams provide a nice contrast to the rich meat This popular dish is often served with fried potato cubes Sometimes a squeeze of lemon is added at the table (For Joyce Goldstein’s recipe for Porco com Amêijoas à Alentejana please visit leitesculinaria com)

O U R E X P E R T S

Ann Sperling (AS) Wine Grower, Sperling Vineyards

Af ter establishing a reputation for quality and recognition of t his approach (Platinum Merlot 1992) at CedarCreek in Kelowna, Ann has applied t he same pr inciples to several vineyard and winer y star t up projects, including organic and Demeter cer tified Southbrook (2006), Malivoire (1999) and Creekside (1998), all in the Niagara Peninsula Recent B C winer y star t ups include Clos du Soleil (2009) and her family’s vineyard project, Sperling Vineyards (2008)

(HH)

Harr y Her tscheg, AIWS, CSS, CWE, is executive director of t he Vancouver Pla yhouse Int er national Wine Fes tival, Canada's premier wine show Harr y also writes wine reviews for Tidings and N or t hwes t Palat e mag azines, judg es wine com pe titions and teaches wine classes. He's a Cer tified Wine Educator and a Cer tified Specialist of Spirits (from Society of Wine Educators) and has a diploma in Wines and Spirits (from Wine and Spirit Education Trust)

Ryan Dentr y (RD) Bar Manager, Café Brio

A wine enthusiast, Ryan has worked in the B C wine in dustr y for eight years, notably at Kettle Valley Winer y where he par ticipated in all aspects of the 2009 vintage In addition, Ryan is a veteran of t he Vancouver wine scene, with experience at Bishops and Bridges restaurants as well as at Liber ty Wine Merchants Ryan looks for ward to completing his sommelier cer tification t his coming year

AD I'd pair a cool climate, fruity, fresh (less than three years old) red wine such as Gamay, Foch or even a Pinot Noir, if it's not oaky. The wine should be lively and bold, all about the fruit with balancing acidity and moderate alcohol (10 12 percent)

HH While wine touring in Portugal's Bairrada region near the Atlantic, I arrived at a revelation that many coastal Portuguese reds, Alentejo included, go well with seafood. Given their medium bodied structure, lively acidity, ripe berry fruit with herbal, savoury and mineral notes, along with well balanced, integrated tannins, it's little wonder the Portuguese drink more red than white with fish (salt cod dishes included) And they love pork with their reds, too So, hold off on the big, concentrated Touriga Nacional reds from the Douro, but do give a lighter styled Portuguese red a go.

RD I would choose a Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley for its angular acidity, bright berry/cherry flavours and firm minerality When young, these wines generally profile with medium body, high acidity and a wide range of fruit and herbaceous flavours They also show a brilliant integration of components as they age A four to five year old bottle should do the trick, combining the high structure necessary to match the pork with just the right delicacy necessary to not dominate the subtle texture and flavour of the clams

BONUS SOMMELIER CHALLENGE

Caramelized Brussels Sprouts with Applewood-Smoked Bacon, Lemon and Brown Butter.

(Find this recipe by Chef David and Laura Shea at nymag com)

AD I looove Brussels sprouts, so would pair my Sperling Vineyards 2010 Gewürztraminer with this tasty sprout

HH Amontillado sherry can handle sweet, bitter, smoky, fat, citrus, rich ... especially when it's all in one bite.

RD Joie Noble Blend, a fall classic! An Alsatian style field blend of aromatic varietals This wine balances rich limey acidity with white peach, pears and apricot fruit flavours for a long dry finish The floral aromas of the wine will combine beautifully with the rich flavours and textures of the dish, bringing balance to the force.

Harr y Her tsc heg

Executive Director, Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival

The whole beast

FEEDING THE FAMILY

100 YEARS OF FOOD & DRINK IN VICTORIA

by Nancy Oke & Rober t Griffin (Royal BC Museum)

In the last half of the 19th century, Victoria was the commercial powerhouse of British Columbia The largest city in the province was also the largest market Businesses that thrived here brought prosperity to the rest of BC

Nancy Oke and Rober t Griffin present a colourful history of the bakers, butchers, grocers, coffee makers and other suppliers of food and drink in Victoria’s prosperous early days The story begins with the building 43 how the urban landscape changed as the city grew and how it stabilized in the shadow of Vancouver’s rising prominence

This richly illustrated book shows how the shifting population, economic factors and technology all contributed to changes in delivering food and beverages to the people of Victoria Local biscuit makers disappeared as cheaper impor ts arrived On supermarket shelves, seasonal fresh peas gave way to canned and then frozen peas available year round. Small shops yielded to larger shops. Specialty shops flourished in Victoria and still do though general food stores eventually dominated the market.

In the early days, a customer handed the grocery list to the clerk who gathered all the goods from shelves behind the counter A new era of self ser vice stores arrived in the 1920s: now customers could stroll among the goods offered for sale, make their selections and take them to a cashier

A must read for anyone immersed in the food culture of Vancouver Island, Feeding the Family is as well researched as it is enlightening Take a walk through the early food and drink scene in Victoria. Recommended.

liquid assets by Larry Ar nold

RED WINE

Gehringer Optimum Pinot Noir 2009 Okanagan $22.00 25.00

Good Pinot Noir is an elusive critter! But don’t cry for me British Columbia for there are plenty of good ones to be found in our own back yard. This is on the über style of the Pinot continuum Full bodied with concentrated plum, cherry and spice flavours, soft silky tannins and a soft toasty finish Very hard to find but worth the effort!

Trivento Amado Sur 2009 Argentina $16.00 18.00

This is one big wine for the money! A blend of Malbec, Bonarda and Syrah, it is black as pitch, medium to full bodied and redolent with concentrated bramble and raspberry flavours To say this wine is intense is to not do it justice It is also silky smooth with a dusting of fine grained tannins and a hint of oak Marietta Old Vine Red Lot #54 NV California $24.00 27.00

This is not a wine to contemplate. There is nothing to be found within its inky depths but pure enjoyment. Lot #54 is the latest release of Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red, a field blend of grapes and vintages, plain and simple It is the quintessential bistro wine, rich and concentrated with ripe berry flavours, a lush texture and silky tannins Need I say more?

Fatalone Primitivo Gioia Del Colle 2006 Italy $17.00 19.00

It all began with Filippo Petrera “Il Fatalone” which in the local jargon means “irresistible heartbreaker ” To maintain his mojo with the ladies, Don Filippo began each day with the crosswords and a half a litre of milk washed down with an equivalent amount of Primitivo There were no complaints and he lived to the age of 98 Today, winemaker Pasquale Petrera runs the show with the same passion but a little more focus on the job It is a style one rarely sees on this continent Ver y oxidative, with a pale onionskin colour and an incredible bouquet showing sweet to bacco, cinnamon and old leather aromas. Very light on the palate but full marks for flavour Sweet and spicy with a long, long finish Henry Fessy Saint Amour 2009 France $24 00 28 00

Well made Beaujolais is wine worth drinking It can never be Pinot Noir but in the right hands it can produce charming wines of great character. The best of the best come from the 10 crus of Beaujolais of which Saint Amour is the most southerly. The vintage was fantastic and the wine is very forward with blackberry and currant aromas and flavours that linger on the palate Nicely balanced and very silky with a long juicy finish

SPARKLING WINE

Nino Franco Rustico Valdobbiadene Prosecco Brut NV Italy $23 00 25 00

Nino Franco was the Prosecco originally served at Harry’s Bar in Venice, made famous by Ernest Hemingway in the early 20th century The Rustico when mixed with white peach juice is the authentic Bellini and now here in Victoria Light and pleasantly dry with moderate alcohol (11%) and soft acidity. The nose is very delicate with subtle peach, apple and pear aromas. Very refreshing, very creamy, very tasty. The only prob lem I persistently experience with the Rustico is getting the cork out of the bottle Perhaps too many Bellinis, not enough exercise

Pares Balta Cava Brut NV Spain $20.00 23.00

Pares Balta Cava is a delicious sparkling wine from the Penedes region just west of Barcelona in Spain. The wines of this family owned estate have been organic since the 2004 vintage It is crisp and refreshing with a fine mousse and an alluring bouquet of apples, melon and limes Nicely balanced with fresh fruit flavours and a long clean finish

Simonnet Febvre Cremant de Bourgogne Brut France $22.00 25.00

This sprightly little fizz went down ver y well at a recent tasting but what wine wouldn’t when you are quaffing it down with the president of the company Simon net Febr vre Cremant is the only sparkling wine made in Chablis A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir aged for 3 years, it is delicate and full flavoured with crisp fruit flavours, toasty nuances and a delicate mousse Charming to say the least

WHITE WINE

Terre de Neptune Picpoul de Pinet 2010 France $15 00 17 00

Made from Picpoul Blanc, the grape is indigenous to a small area in the Languedoc and produces a wine with slightly more body and less acidity than Sauvignon Blanc Terre de Neptune is crisp and clean with citrus, floral and mineral aromas coming through on the palate with a crunch of mouth watering acidity. It’s not Muscadet but will do just as well

Le Grand St Vincent Touraine Sauvignon 2009 France $19 00 22 00

To be frank, I must admit I have a weakness for the light bodied, refreshing wines of the Loire Valley in France. This elegant Touraine is an exercise in restraint with racy blackcurrant, citrus and tropical fruit flavours, zippy acidity and a clean, tight finish.

Yes please

WWW.HESTERCREEK.COM

Hester Creek proudly introduces – Character White and Character Red – both bright, fresh, lively blends that are classic examples of what our 95-acre vineyard site on the Golden Mile Bench creates.

The Buzz

VICTORIA: Oh, glorious har vest time Get your calendars out, because there are so many ways to cel ebrate it in the city and on the peninsula this year The Annual Saanich Fair launches the season, run ning from Sept 3 5 (www saanichfair ca) Pace yourselves at the Great Canadian Beer Festival Sept 9 10 (www gcbf com), as t he following day sees t he return of t he Victoria Downtown Public Market Society’s Eat Here Now! Festival (September 11 in Spirit (Centennial) Square) I had the chance to catch up with event organizer, Philippe Lucas, earlier this summer, and he told me about some of the new features we have to look for ward to at this year ’ s event, including a knife skills demo station with Jed Grieve (Cook Culture) The Parsonage Café will be ser ving samples of their popular cold drip cof fee (Fernwood Cof fee Co. of course), there will a larger sit down area and an expanded kid zone, hosted by the Compost Education Centre The society, which continues to raise awareness, suppor t and funds for a per manent local downtown mar ke tplace, has been building momentum all year The popularity of their winter markets led them to add market days throughout the spring and summer, and they received a municipal grant, which has allowed them to begin a research project to assess the needs of the farmers, and producers who will be active in the market For more information, visit their website (www victoriapublicmarket com) Next on the schedule is the Vancouver Island Feast of Fields, to be held at Marley Farms on Sept 18 The Marley family has been running their winer y in the Mount Newton valley since the spring of 2000, and along with the resident horses, sheep, geese, chickens, turkeys, ducks and pigeons, are ex cited to host their first Feast (www feastof fields com) I recommend you take it easy the following week end and catc h your breat h before t he always f abulous Ar t of t he Coc kt ail on Oct 1 3 (www ar tof thecocktail ca), and Madrona Farm’s 4th Annual Chef Sur vival Challenge, Oct 2 (read more about it on page 13 www chefsur vivalchallenge com) If you ’ ve been out of town for t he summer, you’ll have noticed a f ew im por t ant c hang es on t he restaurant circuit Bubby Rose’s Baker y and Café in the Cook St village closed mid July af ter nine years of providing delicious baked goods, comfor t food and gluten free treats For tunately, all is not lost! As the sign on the door explained, “the little Bubby is just growing up and taking on a new personality” In ot her words, t hey’ve pulled a Zambri’s Bubby’s Kitc hen is t he result a fully licensed, 50 seat restaurant, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday in the brand new building on the corner of Cook and Oscar (355 Cook St www bubbyskitchen ca) There’s some t hing else exciting happening in t he Cook S t villag e t his f all A f ew mont hs ago, a fellow EAT writer asked me casually if I’d heard about a new burger joint that was in the works “ What’s t hat? Burgers?” I asked, feigning interes t “ Yeah, she said Rumor has it t hat Zambri’s and Pig are joining forces ” Now she had my full attention “I hear t hey’re down in N ew Yor k r ight now, doing research ” And it’s true Bigwheel Burger is slated to open in early November at 341 Cook St (the former laundromat location), with seating for 35, and of course, takeout Are you drooling yet? In other restaurant news, the American burger chain with a cult following, Fatburger, has arrived in Victoria with a 1,650 square foot location (1209 Douglas St www.fatburger.com) At press time, Sam Chalmers of Bistro 28 is poised to open The Black Hat downtown on the corner of Broughton and Langley St, and brunch favourite Shine will be opening a second location at Johnson and Blanshard (in the old Demitasse location) At Paprika Bistro (2524 Estevan Ave) Geof f Parker busy making a few changes and Ken Heuston of Smoken Bones fame is moving his restaurant to The Hudson (opening Dec 01) more soon All in all, there’s a lot to be thankful for this har vest season Oh and one more t hing EAT contributor Jeremy Ferguson has published a stunning photographic essay detailing his many trips to Sout heas t Asia T itled Smelling the Flowers from Horseback t his hardcover, 160 page, cof fee table style book is a lush por trait of six extraordinar y countries their people and the landscapes For more info or to buy a copy visit www blurb com/books/2388832 Rebecca Baugniet NANAIMO: At Terrain Regional Kitc hen in t he Oceanfront Resor t Cowic han Bay, owner Jus tin Skidmore has filled the menu with

Af ter 27 years of running The Mahle House, sister and brother team Maureen Loucks and Delber t Horrock have passed the reins over to Maureen’s daughter and son in law, Tara and Stephen Wilson Keeping with family tradition, the pair is focused on sourcing ingredients from the Cedar/Yellowpoint region What is new is a small plate tasting selection and a weekend lunch of fering You can also find t he f amily at t he Cedar Farmer’s Marke t eac h Sunday selling t ake home dishes of some diners’ favourites like duck confit and delicious homemade compotes (www mahlehouse ca; 250 722 3621)

New owners of Trollers Fish and Chips have proudly made a claim on ser ving the freshest halibut on Vancouver Island Knowing a good thing when they taste it, Penny and Bruce haven’t changed the already popular menu However they seem to have per fected the ar t of battering fried fish One bite into the light crispy battered fish of your choice and you will know what I’m talking about (Nanaimo Harbour Float F, 104 Front Street; 250 741 1609)

In Qualicum, The Old Dutc h Inn (www olddutchinn com ; 250 752 6914) is under t he new management of locavore Kevin Ward The proper ty is receiving a facelif t in the upcoming months that has just star ted wit h a new local food focused menu (not Dutch t hemed) designed and managed by Chef Ryan Zuvic h, who you may know from Markt Ar tisan Deli Fans of Markt need not despair though since Chef Matthew Shepherd has stepped up to add his flare to the deli’s popular cooking classes and long table dinners while Ryan moonlights between the two locations The Old Dutch Inn dining room is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and is another dining experience with a fantastic ocean view

Cobb’s Baker y ’ s newest location has also just recently opened next door to Nesvogs Meats and Deli in Terminal Park (1533 Estevan Rd; 250 591 2422) Speaking of Nesvogs, I recently impressed a group of fr iend’s wit h a platter featur ing t heir house made dr y Chor izo sausage, smoked ham and corned beef

It may be (should be?) t hat your t houghts are on t he upcoming Thanksgiving f eas t Mos t local f ar mers mar ke ts are open up until Thanksgiving wit h g rowers of f er ing up s t alks of br ussel sprouts, squashes, potatoes and an ar ray of seasonal baked goods (bcfar mersmar kets org) Talking tur key, Pipers Meats (www pipersmeats com; 250 758 3611) are now taking orders for the organic variety and you’ll want to order early If you’d rather a local farm gate turkey grace your table, I recommend check ing out the list of suppliers provided by www cowichangreencommunity org/buy local buy fresh/turkey Karma Brophy

COMOX VALLEY: We On a recent tr ip to Campbell River, we stopped by t he Java Shac k, across t he s tree t from t he Quadra Island f er r y I recommend checking out the handmade bike hang ing on display while you wait for a gourmet cof fee and hear ty breakfast or lunch Af ter our meal, the whole family bur ned of f some energy at On The Roc ks Climbing Gym This g reat indoor climbing facility boosts a bouldering room and three stories wit h 70 rout es to explore Chec k t hem out at www roc kgym ca We enjoyed high q uality, traditional sushi at Wasabiya Sushi Caf e www wasabiyasushicafe com In t he river city you can always f ind gour me t food supplies and a prepared meal at Cheddar & Co. www ched darandcompany com

Kic king of f t he Comox Valley’s 30 Da y Local Food Challenge was Shelter Point Distiller y The im pressive new dis tiller y over looks vas t f ields of raspber r y in Oys t er River Only locally g rown ing redients are used and mas t er dis tiller Mike Nic holson (previously wit h Lag avulin) oversees production; t he sing le malts will be ready 2012 Have a look at www shelterpointdistiller y com and plan a trip to the spectacular proper ty During the mont h long c halleng e many g reat events took place, like the cocktail contest at The Old House Res t aurant and t he bar is t a c halleng e at The Wandering Moose Make sure you have a look at www eatlocalcomoxvalley com and see what went on over the 30 days

When in Cumberland enjoying the character and charm of Dunsmuir Avenue, stop by key landmarks

like the old government building, now home to the f amily fr iendly Wander ing Moose Caf e www wanderingmoosecafe ca The Waverley Ho t el is a classic bar t hat has leg endar y music, look up www wa verleyhot el ca for events you should be attending Another great old building is home to the Riding Food Hostel, Dodge City Cycles and Seeds N atural Food Marke t (www seeds foodmarket ca) You will also find The Gatehouse Bistro & Galler y (www thegatehousebistro com), along with sensational sweets pur veyor Dark Side Chocolates (www darksidechocolates com) nestled amongst the funky shops throughout town

Skim boarding on the beaches of Comox Valley really makes a guy hungr y Af ter eating sand and seaweed, it was with great joy that my family found Fred from Tin Town Taco set up in the park at Kye Bay We met earlier in the year at Market Days in downtown Cour tenay, he and I bot h like his new spot in t he shade by t he beac h Contact tintown taco@shaw ca for his daily locations this summer

Congratulations to Trent McIntyre and Sandra Viney of Avenue Bistro, they will be celebrating 4 years this September Look for Chef Aaron Rail at the Marley Farms Feast of Fields, where he’ll be en ticing you for a visit to the bistro Make sure you see what’s fresh at www avenuebistro ca Cour tenay VQA S tore (www cour tenayvqaw ines com) now has 400 BC wines for you to select from and has teamed up with Kathy Jerrit of Tria Culinar y Studios to host Red, White and Rose tast ings

Fall is g reat time to visit an apple orc hard;

Watrin Orchard and Farm Market is a working orc hard and cider juicing facility wor t h c hec king out The market has fresh produce and grocer y from the area Take a look at www watrinorchard ca Denman Island is known as apple countr y, first planted in 1890 Go by Denman Island General S tore at 1069 N or t hwes t Road for some picnic supplies and head of f to Eas t Cider Orc hard (2831 East Road), West Isle Farm (2830 Piercy Road) and Apple Lane Orc hard (2960 Lake Road) for apples and other tree fruits This is a great time of year to enjoy the cozy patio at The Old House Restaurant Owners Jeff Lucas and Don Sharpe, along with their staf f, really know how to take care of you Visit www oldhouserestau rant ca for menu and hours Eli Blake

TOFINO: The food buzz this summer has been the opening of a new gourmet take out and catering business in town Chef T im May’ s Red Can Gourme t of f ers t ake out gour me t sandwic hes, salads, chowders, pizza, and daily specials from the 700 Industrial Way location He also has been catering many events in town and the reaction has been all around positive May was t he head chef at Clayoquot Wilderness Resor t for 13 years He lef t the remote resor t in the capable hands of Ryan Orr before moving on to his own gig When I spoke to him in July, he was so busy with his new venture he was looking to hire another chef In addition to take out and cater ing, Red Can can put toget her platters and dishes for dinner par ties, special events or dinner at home May is also open to special

requests, such as wedding cakes May said he has found a nic he t hat wasn’t f illed: “ There’s a lot of good restaurants in town and we don’t want to take away from anyone else,” he said But f ew businesses can of fer the type of catering he is of f er ing And in case you ’ re wonder ing, t he name comes from a buoy of f Deadman’s Island in Clayoquot Sound that May had a few encounters with over the years he was traveling back and for th from t he remot e Clayoq uot Wilder ness Resor t in Bedwell Sound For more infor mation about Red Can, www redcangourmet com or 250 725 2525 Cong ratulations to t he W ic kaninnish Inn on being named t he top resor t in Canada and t he number one overall top accommodation proper ty in Canada by t he readers of Tra vel and Leisure mag azine The Inn took top mar ks in a recent reader’s sur vey, the results of which were released in July www wickinn com

Feas t Tof ino Ucluele t, a mont h long culinar y f es tival t hat ran from May 9 to June 4 in its inaugural year is getting suppor t in the form of an award nomination from Tourism Vancouver Island

The Power of Par tners awards recognize businesses or organizations t hat have successfully par tnered with other tourism businesses to increase visitation to Vancouver Island Feast par tnerships were between res t aurants, c hef s, food pur veyors, and t he accommodation, tour sectors and sponsors like EAT

The f es tival attract ed top name c hef s like Ric k Moonen, Rob Feenie, Mic hael N oble, Pe t er Zambri, and many more See the website for

information about this year ’ s festival at www feastbc com

The summer brought an abundance of fresh produce and other specialty products to the area through t he Tof ino Ucluele t Culinar y Guild’s f ood prog ram TUCG’s coordinator Bobby Lax kep t t he products coming from independent producers on the Island and the rest of BC Restaurants, individuals, grocer y stores and caterers all reaped t he benefits of his ef for ts For more information on t he guild, please visit www tucg ca

Tickets for the Clayoquot Sound Oyster Festival go on sale October 1 Both the Mermaid’s Ball and t he gala event were sold out last year, so you might want to t hink about picking up your tickets early This year ’ s festival is scheduled for November 17 19 Visit www oystergala com for more infor mation

We continued to enjoy the Saturday markets on the Village Green until Labour Day, but like sum mer those are now on hiatus As I’ve said before though, September is one of the best months to enjoy Tofino I’ll be heading back to my favourite food spots, now that they aren’t quite so busy Happy fall!

Jen Dar t

VAN COUVER: It’s been a busy season for res t aurant and re t ail openings and re boots Giovane Baker y and Café at the Fairmont Pacific Rim Hotel has transformed itself into Giovane Café and Winebar (www giovanecafe com) The regular pastries, cakes and lunch items are available until four p m Af ter t hat, t he Enoteca bac ked bar comes to life, wit h a rotating lis t of 24 reds and 12 whites available by the glass, as well as a selection of thin crust pizzas, charcuterie and cheeses

Edible Canada (www ediblecanada com ) has expanded t heir culinar y tour and locavore re t ail empire to include a new bistro right across from the Public Market The menu features local, Canadian, seasonal and sustainable ingredients Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and weekend brunch from nine a m daily

La Taqueria (www lataqueria ca) has opened a second location at 2549 Cambie St If you ’ ve haven’t made it down to t he or iginal Has tings S t location to tr y t heir pinc he tacos, here’s anot her c hance Favourites include de Lengua (braised Pember ton Meadows beef tongue) and al Pastor (Chilliwack pork marinated in chile, anchovies and pineapple)

Also new to Cambie at West 15th Ave, is Local Fresh Food Market (www localfreshfoodmarket com) This ar tisan grocer y store is jointly owned by several B C growers/producers, including Blue Comet Seafoods, Gelderman Farms, Thomas Reid Farms, Redl’s Home Grown Beef and Wild Coast Edibles In addition to the produce and meats, pick up organic baked items, and specialty ar tisan food and household products Ever ything in store is from B C and most is organic Roc ky Mountain Flatbread (www rockymountainflatbread ca) has opened a second Vancouver location at 4186 Main St Open daily for breakfast, lunch, dinner and weekend brunch, from 10 a m to 10 p m

And as the pizza wars heat up in Vancouver, Trilussa (www trilussa ca) opens at 4363 Main St This café specializes in Roman style pizza, so think long, rectangular flat breads with toppings like pancetta and provolone, potato and pesto, and anchovies and olive oil The panini and espresso are also top notch

And over on the West Side, Andrey Durbach and Chris Stewar t, owners of La Buca, Pied a Terre and Cafeteria, have opened Commissar y at 4025 MacDonald St The tiny storefront allows customers to pick up fresh pastas and ragus, bocconcini and burrata, meats, custom salad dressings, cof fee, olive oil, truf fle paste, and gourmet salts and peppers Open Tuesday to Saturday from 11 a m to 6 p m Watch out for the drunken cows Sezmu Meats (www sezmumeats com) has brought their red wine fed Okanagan cows to Vancouver restaurants and butchers The bright, red colour, flower y aromatics and slightly sweet taste are just a few reasons to tr y it Find it retail at Dir ty Apron Deli, Market Meats and Oyama Sausage Feast on it at Trattoria, Blue Water Café, Yew and Goldfish Kitchen, among others

The ultimate bad boy of the sustainable seafood crowd, caviar has become the new prodigal thanks to t he ef for ts of Target Marine Hatc heries Their Nor thern Divine sturgeon caviar (www.nor th erndivine.com) is sus t ainably produced and Ocean Wise cer tif ied on a land based hatc her y in Sechelt The resulting eggs are minimally salty, with a slight sweetness and a light pop (minus the usual Borax treatment found in the mass produced variety) Find it at C Restaurant for now, but also soon direct through the website

On the people front, Chef Ned Bell has taken over EC duties at The Four Seasons Hotel, including Yew Res t aurant, while Sebas tien Le Gof f is bac k in town from opening anot her Daniel Boulud res t aurant in Sing apore Le Gof f has joined t he Cactus Club g roup of res t aurants as par t of t heir operations management team and will also oversee the wine and beverage program Look for him at the new English Bay location this fall Anya Levykh Find the Okanagan Buzz on page 47

stay to shop, dine and relax.

Cowichan Bay, a picturesque seaside village a shor t drive nor th of Victoria, is emerging as a little culinary oasis on Vancouver Island and quickly becoming known as the gastronomic epi centre of the Cowichan Valley region. A vista of ocean, sail and fishing boats, piers, whar ves, floating homes, small shops and restaurants greet you as you come down the hill into the village. Most of the action takes place along the main street which runs along the waterfront. Visitors come to stroll the shops and galleries, enjoy a fine meal or simply to grab a snack. But the village is also becoming a hub for searching out and sampling local southern Vancouver Island foods and wines If it’s seafood you are looking for, the Cowichan Bay Seafood shop is the place to go Owners Gregg and Anne Best are commercial crab and prawn fishermen and pioneers in sustainable seafood production At their shop fresh from the sea, fresh Dungeness crab are the treat this season and make sure you try their chowder! A little fur ther along the street Hilar y’s Cheese & Deli offers visitors a change to relax and savour cheeses produced locally or from fur ther afield Bring summer onto your plate with Hilarys own fresh Chevre It's a natural with smoked salmon, fresh greens or local asparagus (Look for their new cheese shop on For t Street in Victoria ) Rocky Creek Winer y, a wonderful outdoor patio This fall look for the release of Jubilee a sparkling rosé, Wild Blackberry and a special private release of Tempranillo. Come and enjoy the view and listen to the outdoor music. Newly open but already garnering accolades is Terrain Regional Kitchen in the Oceanfront Resor t Cowichan Bay. Owner Justin Skidmore has filled the menu with ingredients sourced from the sea, farms and culinary ar tisans at his doorstep. Make Cowichan Bay your base for touring the region. Wor th a visit are many neighbouring wineries

Destination Naramata

The Dish

Rare Seared Albacore Tuna Salad with Nugget Potato, Cucumber, Egg, Marinated Olives, Arugula and Miso Aiol

The Wine Hillside Estate Winery Viognier ‘09

Who Hillside Estate Winery & Bistro Executive Chef Rob Cordonier

There is just something special about Naramata where the noise of the city fades into the serenity of country life Accessible by a two lane road from Penticton, the winding drive through orchards and the Naramata Bench Wineries with sweeping views down to the lake is one of the most scenic drives in the Okanagan Known “as the sunny side” and locals as Naramatians, this tiny community holds the honor of being one of only two Canadian towns (the other Vancouver Island’s Cowichan Bay) with the official designation of Citta Slow As a culinary destination, Naramata showcases the Naramata Heritage Inn and Spa with the award winning Cobblestone Wine Bar and Restaurant, beautiful bed and breakfasts, a close by epicurean treasure and three exceptional winery restaurants.

Originally built in 1908, the beautifully restored Naramata Heritage Inn and Spa re opened in 2001 and has been a booked success with guests including everyday city folk from as far away as Penticton as well as the Lieutenant Governor and celebrities looking for a dose of Naramata tranquility Enjoy the enchanting courtyard patio at the Cobblestone Wine Bar & Restaurant, perfect for sharing Executive Chef Thomas Render’s delightful small plates with rock oven fired bread and local wines The Alberta Braised Ribs have a devout following Live jazz or blues on Friday evenings

Stay at one of the many delightful Bed & Breakfasts including the five star Apple D’Or or directly at a winery Therapy Vineyards beautiful Guesthouse, one of a kind Tree House at Elephant Island Orchard Wines, newly opened Black Widow Winery and the laid back D’Angelo Estate Winery.

After an early morning paddle with owner’s, Peter and Eileen of the Sun N Sup (Stand up and Paddle) Store, head over to the popular lunch spot, Café Never Matters, for an excellent latte or killer espresso with the legendary “Hog”, a good omen for Triathlon and Ironman athletes found sitting on the roof Enjoy the new tapas and sangria evenings

The anchor of Naramata the beloved General Store is a throw back to a gone by era, and includes a post office, deli with made to order sandwiches, local treats, ice cream par lor, video store, cold beer/wine, and is the hub for local gossip

Locals know to say hi to Grandma who at eighty two still helps out at the family owned Camp Creek Station Naramata Pub The legendary big portions bring orchard workers from all over the valley especially on Wednesday wing nite. A request from the pub to Penticton’s Cannery Brewing with deep roots in Naramata for a low alcohol beer lead to the creation of No Jail Pale Ale (renamed No Justice Pale Ale after liability issues) served on tap, along with their award winning Naramata Nut Brown Ale The much loved Naramata fine dining institution, the Countr y Squire, will live on in memory and with Cannery Brewing’s Squire Scotch Ale, featuring the now sadly torn down legend on the label

Naramata’s excellent take out and deliver y pizzeria Rocky’s “Real Things Pizza”,

The Dish

Freshly baked to order “Rock Oven” focaccia with small plates.

The Wine Nichol Vineyard Gewurztraminer ‘08

Who

Cobblestone Wine Bar Executive Chef Thomas Render

The Dish

Char grilled ‘beaten lamb’ with sesame lemon drizzle and quinoa parsley salad

The Wine Red Rooster Winery Syrah ‘08

Who Patio Restaurant Executive Chef Darin Paterson

makes a summer must have pizza the Mango Medley, made with curry cream sauce (a treasured family recipe), sliced chicken breast, red pepper, fresh cilantro, garlic and fresh cut mango with homemade chutney The family run China Beach Restaurant contin ues to serve up burgers/fries/ice cream and Chinese food for locals and the beach crowd Don’t miss the Wednesday afternoon Naramata Farmer’s Market including Joy Road Catering’s to die for summer tarts

Naramata is home to many of British Columbia’s cult wineries Kettle Valley (home of the famed gewürztraminer slushie), Poplar Grove, Laughing Stock, La Frenz, Township 7, Nichol, Howling Bluff, Van Westen, Joie and Foxtrot Take advantage of the Okanagan shuttle for touring the wineries and discover more treasures at the newer boutique wineries Perseus, Marichel, Ruby Blues (aka Ruby Tuesday), Serendipity, Three Mile and Misconduct While Poplar Grove wines have moved to their spectacu lar new winery, don’t miss sampling the award winning Poplar Grove cheeses which remain at the original location and are made on site For a unique and memorable dining experience, reser ve one of the Naramata Bench Winemaker’s “Thirst for Thursdays” dinners held in the beautiful garden of Serenata’s Guesthouse

At the entrance of the Naramata Bench drive, find an epicurean treasure The Bench Artisan Food Market. Gourmet breakfasts/lunches, outstanding coffee plus a specialty food store with inviting outdoor patio Bike or walk the KVR trail from Penticton towards Naramata and stumble upon the lovely Trail and More Store selling ice cream cones, seasonal fresh fruit and when in season their famous sweet corn.

Darin Paterson, the Executive chef and owner of Penticton’s well loved fine dining restaurant Bogner’s, has a new venue to showcase his talent the newly opened lunch patio with stunning view at Red Rooster Winery. Delight in the middle eastern menu created from local produce with many ingredients picked daily from his near by farm The char grilled beaten lamb with quinoa, beetroot salted cabbage, flat bread and herbed couscous is exquisite and the warm lentil soup with fresh mint is not to be missed A wonderful match for Red Rooster’s award winning wines Lunch only

Drink up the serenity of summer with a glass of the signature pinot blanc at the flower adorned garden patio at Lake Breeze Vineyards Start with Executive Chef Mark Ashton’s divine Dungeness crab, arugula and celeriac slaw or share an antipasto platter. Grilled veggie panni and roasted chicken salad are local favorites Lunch only

Hillside Estate Winery & Bistro’s magnificent rooftop patio with breath taking views of the valley is heavenly for a summer evening sunset Wonderful grilled flatbreads and outstanding seafood Don’t miss Executive Chef Rob Cordonier’s superb braised pork cheeks paired brilliantly with a glass of Syrah. Extend the evening with a signature dessert Bistro open for lunch and dinner excitedly until December

Rejuvenate your soul in Naramata and enjoy good food and good wine along the way.

travel bc Text by Claire Sear. Photography by Jon Bandringa

Naramata Heritage Inn and Spa

Hillside Estate Winery Red Rooster Winery

The Wall Street Jour nal named 2011, the year of the vegetable but a more accurate description might have been the year of the heirloom vegetable. With the discovery of heirloom tomatoes, a new generation is delving into the wonderful world of vegetables that come in different sizes, shapes, and colors but share one common denominator: flavour Is it any wonder that a corporate tomato grown for symmetrical size, picked green for long distance travel and dosed with ethylene gas to turn red is devoid of taste? Nearly lost and forgotten, heirloom vegetables are staging a massive comeback in the culinary world Kobe beef is so yesterday, today it’s all about Blue tomatoes, Hubbard squash and Turkish Orange Eggplant Sotheby’s is now holding their second annual Art of the Far m auction, where the rare masterpieces up for bid are edible heirloom vegetables and seeds

In the Okanagan, certified organic Sunshine Farm owned by John and Sher Alcock, one of the founders of the Kelowna Farmers’ Market, has transitioned from selling some of the Okanagan’s best vegetables including their prized heirloom tomatoes to selling over 203 varieties of heirloom seeds. Sunshine Farms was the first to introduce rainbow carrots to the Okanagan which were met with curiosity and hesitation at the Kelowna Farmers Market “Customers didn’t know what to make of carrots that were purple, red, and white ” Carrots are orange primarily for political reasons Back in the 17th century Dutch farmers focused on growing orange carrots rather than traditional purple carrots to show their support for the struggle for Dutch independence Rainbow carrots are now featured in the Okanagan’s best restaurants and are a sought after item at farmers’ markets Many of the Okanagan’s top chefs are growing their own heirlooms dragon beans, lemon licorice mint, wonderful lettuces with names like Drunken Woman, Ear of the Devil, Deer Tongue as well as Black Beauty Squash and tomatoes through restaurant gardens and even their own farms Sunshine Farm attends

the fall Kelowna Farmers’ Market and provides a unique opportunity for their seed customers to actually taste many of the heirloom vegetables available by seed from their on line and beautiful print catalogue. With Sotheby’s auctioning heirloom seeds, the honorable custom of gifting seeds is very much back in vogue Plant your own glorious heirlooms next spring and remember to harvest and dry the seeds from your best plants for replanting or gifting

The Okanagan also showcases heirloom “weeds” which have been growing wild for centuries, long a delicacy for immigrants Mary Theodosakis of Theo's Restaurant, a Penticton tradition since 1962, fondly remembers as a child picking “wild weeds” with her mother and other members of the Okanagan Greek community who were delighted to have found the treasured greens of their homeland dandelions, purslane, amaranth and stinging nettles. These wild greens for many Okanagan immigrants provide an edible link to their past

Today, purslane much loved by the rest of the world has gone from North America’s nuisance weed to gracing the tables of New York’s finest restaurants, the pages of Oprah magazine and is now being cultivated in the Okanagan at Oliver’s organic Covert Farm alongside amaranth Covert Farm’s decision to grow purslane and amaranth sprung from the friendship with Mary Theodosakis who taught the Covert family about the edible “weeds” growing on their farm and how to eat them Purslane is delightful as a salad or tucked in a sandwich and amaranth is an exotic Okanagan substitute for cooked spinach. Try the traditional Greek Purslane salad and wilted Amaranth at Theo’s restaurant or the amaranth quiche at Covert Farm’s organic café Wild stinging nettles and zucchini flowers made popular in North America by Mario Batali are now found at the Okanagan Farmers markets Be adventurous discover the exciting world of heirloom and wild vegetables at the Okanagan’s Farmers markets or grow your own. Give me heirloom vegetables and Okanagan “weeds” any day over boring, bland and tasteless corporate vegetables They are worth their taste in gold

One of the founding fathers of the BC, and Canadian, wine industries has embarked on a new adventure Earlier this summer, Harr y McWatters announced the launch of his own estate wine, McWatters Collection, from one of the Black Sage Bench’s first vinifera vineyards, originally planted in 1993 The Sundial Vineyard (formerly named Black Sage Vineyard) is located on the Black Sage Road in the southern part of the rugged desert like Okanagan Valley Farmed sustainably since McWatters first purchased the land almost two decades ago, the vineyard is comprised of 60 acres, with varietals grown including Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

The planting of traditional Bordeaux grapes by McWatters and Viticulturist Richard Cleave in the early 1990s was the largest to take place ever in Canada at that time It was a risky move, as classic red Bordeaux varieties had yet to be planted in the region in any quantity. The Black Sage Bench now totals more than half of the planted area in the Okanagan Valley with approximately sixty percent in red varieties

“Having started in the wine business over 40 years ago, I have devoted my life’s work to establishing the Okanagan Valley as an outstanding vinifera grape growing region. My vision with the McWatters Collection is to craft premium wine that reflects the unique Black Sage terroir and leaves a lasting legacy for future generations,” said Harry McWatters

Harr y McWatters is a pioneer in the thriving British Columbia wine industr y in which he has been involved for over 40 years. He was founder of British Columbia’s first estate winer y, Sumac Ridge Estate Winer y, in 1979 The first release of the McWatters Collection is a 2007 Meritage, with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc releases planned in the future McWatters Collection Meritage retails for approximately $25, and is available at select restaurants and wine shops across BC, as well as via the website www harrymcwatters com

Winer y restaurants have been a brilliant addition to the Okanagan food and wine scene and have defi nit ely t aken our already scintillating des tination tour ism to t he next level Terraf ina Res taurant at Hester Creek Estate Winer y will literally transpor t you to the wine groves of Tuscany Nestled in below t he new winer y, amongs t 40 year old vines and lavender bushes, Terrafina’s fabulous wine list and mouthwatering menu will entice you to stay a while relax, sip the wine, savour the food and experience wine countr y time Stay in one of the rooms in the fab ulous Villas on t he Hillside hes t ercreek com t erra finarestaurant com

Traveling on Black Sage Bench Road on the other side of The Golden Mile, do make a stop at the new Church & State Winer y The original winer y is still on t he Island wit h t his c hic new t as ting room and winer y set down upon their gorgeous Coyote Bowl Vineyard Taste their award winning wines bring a picnic and enjoy the magical view from their outdoor lounge area. churchandstatewines com

Winding your way up from t he Sout h, s top in to view t he g randeur t hat is t he new Poplar Grove Winer y on the Naramata Bench A stunning feat of architecture, the views are jaw dropping inside and out not to mention, t hey make f abulous wine poplargrove ca

Nosh time Just below Poplar Grove on the border of Penticton, discover one of t he mos t c har ming foodie hangouts around: The Benc h A res t au rant/deli/specialty goods store that focuses on local ar tisans t his place is special Ever yt hing on t he

menu is delicious breakfast, lunch, dinner & cater ing Live music on patio on Sundays thebenchmar ket com

Onward into Kelowna’s downtown cultural district to check out t he ver y, ver y long awaited revival of the gorgeous old train station Appropriately named The Old Train S t ation Public House , Chef Rob Walker, formerly from The Bonfire Restaurant & Bar at The Cove Lakeside, is at the kitchen helm and has designed a g as tro pub s tyle menu oldtrains tation pub com

Cookbook lovers will be t hrilled to learn t hat Ri cardo’s Mediterranean Kitchen’ s new cookbook is about to hit the stands! Delve into these pages filled wit h Ricardo and his family’s secrets to living a life filled with great food, fun and big love Go to their website to order or find details: ricardos ca

Basket Case Picnics is a fabulous new addition to wine countr y Fully mobile with a street food style tr uc k , you can f ind t his cool new biz par ked at Okanag an Farmers Marke ts . Kelowna on Wednesday and Saturday, Vernon on Monday and Thursday, Peachland on Sunday and in between you can order online at basketcases com or call 778 214 EATZ (3289) An enviro friendly picnic provider, Bas ket Case uses local, organic, hormone and antibiotic free ingredients and of fers 4 course picnics as well as platters, Panini’s plus they cater par ties

Congratulates to Monika the Baker on the open ing of the second Kelowna location of Okanagan Grocer y Ar tisan Breads (1979 Windsor Rd , Kelowna) Hot baked bread made in the af ternoon

At the Trade Event for Taste: Victoria’s Festival of Food and Wine, the inaugural wine list awards and sommelier of the year awards were presented Applications were numerous and wide ranging, the criteria was detailed and specific, and judges entered into numerous debates in determining the winners The awards were judged over the past month by top industr y professionals including DJ Kearney, Gar y Hynes, John Schreiner, Mark Shipway, Pamela Sanderson, Sharon McLean, Tim Pawsey and Treve Ring

2011 TASTE WINE LIST AWARDS sponsored by EAT Magazine

Most Diner Friendly Wine Menu: Zambri’s

Best Showcase of Island Wines: Butchart Gardens Dining Room Restaurant (Honourable Mentions: Galiano Inn)

Best Overall Wine Program: Zambri’s (Honourable Mentions: Butchar t Gardens, Galiano Inn, Nautical Nellies, Empress Room)

From the left

Kathy McAree (Taste), Jo Zambri (Zambri’s, Frances Sidhe (Zambri’s)

2011 SOMMELIER OF THE YEAR AWARD sponsored by Mission Hill Family Estate Winery

Jacques Lacoste of Lure at the Delta Ocean Pointe Resort and Spa

Honourable Mentions: Rich Massey (Galiano Inn), Frances Sidhe (Zambri’s), Tatum Claypool (Markus’ Wharfside Restaurant)

91 points

MacLean, NatalieMacLean.com, October 2010

“Very elegant with long lines of plummy richness and depth. There are enticing notes of tobacco, pepper and cassis in a lovely melange and lengthy finish. ”

Natalie

Kelowna’s favourite brunch spot. We only use the finest ingredients from free-range eggs to sea-salt & home-made sausages. Downtown Kelowna - 524 Bernard Avenue 7 :30am - 2:30pm Wednesday - Friday 8 :30am - 2:30pm

The Vinegar Works at Valentine Farm, produces innovative and delicious wine vinegars from grapes grown on our farm vineyard.

Everything we sell, we grow.

Pinot Meunier Red Wine Vinegar Gewürztraminer White Wine Vinegar

Apricot Infused Wine Vinegar

Elderberry Infused Wine Vinegar Plum Infused Wine Vinegar Raspberry Infused Wine Vinegar

Tarragon Infused Wine Vinegar Balsamico Bianco Vinegar Balsamico Rosso Vinegar Verjus Find us on Dale Meadows Rd. at Gould Ave. in Summerland 250.494.7300 veggies@valentinefarm.com www.thevinegarworks.com Blog: www.vinegartart.com