WINTER DINING IN THE MEDITERRANEAN

The aesthetics of dining out

HAMMETT'S MESTIZO

‘You eat with your eyes first’ is an expression used by critics everywhere to describe any old restaurant that pays attention to presentation, and while this acts as a barometer of what’s to come in the way of flavour, there’s more to your dining experience than the food.

At Hammett’s Mestizo in St Julian’s, the feast for the eyes starts from the moment you arrive. The high ceilings with hanging light fixtures give you a sense of space, while the purple and grey hues blend with the greenery of fresh plants and live walls. Like stepping onto a Hollywood film set, crossing the threshold of Mestizo takes you away from the humdrum of daily life, and transports you to a world of chic luxury.

While the right atmosphere on a night out is paramount to its success, a restaurant is nothing if the food isn’t worth talking about. Like the other Hammett’s instalments all over the island, food is meant to be shared; morsels of intense flavours passed around the table, received with gasps of delight. Every instalment of the Hammett’s empire has a theme, and at Mestizo, it’s Latin American cuisine, led by Venezuelan chef Jorge Lugo and directed by Chris Hammett himself.

The vibrant menu is as rich in colour as it is in flavour, with influences expanding from Central America to the Caribbean, and from the Andes to the Amazon and Patagonia. The cachapa – a Venezuelan corn pancake – topped with stracciatella, is an explosion of flavours balanced with a kick from a jalapeno mayonnaise. A mixed fish tempura is the perfect sharing dish, but the Mestizo Jalea Mixta adds to that with a batter that mixes beer and oregano for a pop of flavour, complemented perfectly with a mayo-based sauce flavoured with ginger, lemon and red chillies, and served with a criolla salad and yuca chips. Meat eaters won’t be disappointed with the lamb tetela, a mix of minced lamb perfectly balanced with a black bean puree, served with sour cream and fresh herbs. There’s no room for manners with this dish; you’re going to want to get in there fast and help yourself to more than your fair share!

It’s always disappointing to get dressed up and turn up at a restaurant that doesn’t look the part, so if the night you’re after involves the highest of your heels, plans to drink more than a few cocktails, and share some of the island’s tastiest treats, make Hammett’s Mestizo your choice for the night.

A trip around South America

SUSURRUS

The onomatopoeic susurrus is defined as a whisper, and that’s exactly what you’ll hear as you walk into the restaurant; excited whispers as diners exchange muted gasps of delight.

The green and gold tones of the interior with a burst of life from the banana leaves glisten in the setting sun, giving off an instant sense of calm. As you settle at your table overlooking the 1870s-built Dragonara Casino and the deep blues of the Mediterranean, you’re instantly reminded of why you live on this island.

The menu is a trip around South America, where techniques are taken from individual countries around the continent and fused with Mediterranean ingredients, creating a fresh burst of flavour that is unique to Malta’s culinary scene.

The pork tortellaci are a Costa Rican recipe made with local pork and cooked in a rich sauce. This dish was perfectly paired with an Amaretto Colada; a twist on the classic Pina Colada, while the tuna tiradito – a Colombian dish of raw tuna with green olives, orange, lime, cucumber and mint - was paired with a cocktail of premium gin, fresh lime, cucumber and mint.

Presentation is everything at Susurrus. The Argentinian rib-eye arrives on smoking hot coals, reminiscent of the traditional asado, popular in Argentina. You eat first with your eyes, but this also imparts a delightfully smoky flavour to the meat, making it so much more than just a pretty dish.

End the meal on a high with a Cuban cigar… except this one is made of dark chocolate mousse with rum and coffee, served with black sesame and custard.

If deciding on what you’re going to eat gets a little tricky (there are so many wonderful flavours you’re going to want to bite into!) the seven-course degustation menu is just the ticket. Take a trip around South America without ever having to leave your table. Seven delightful morsels from countries all over Latin America, paired with wines from the region, is the perfect vacation from daily routine… and you can be back at your desk by the morning!

MAREA

The central south is smartening up. The baroque architecture of the 16th century bastions paired with the grand superyachts berthed at the Birgu marina make the perfect backdrop for a night on the town. It’s the perfect destination when you’re looking to change things up a bit and stray a little outside your usual comfort zone.

Marea, a Mediterrasian lounge bar and restaurant, is the latest addition to the Kalkara Waterfront. Tucked away underneath Esplora, the panoramic views are stunning, and the bubbly mood makes for a chic but playful night out.

The upbeat atmosphere, with DJs spinning tunes at the weekend, is complemented by a trendy menu, a fusion of Mediterranean and Asian cuisine. Cocktails and sushi have been done before, but Marea adds a different dimension, with varied offerings from around the world.

The very best of Mediterranean ingredients have been given an Asian flair, using kitchen techniques from both parts of the world, sometimes in separate dishes and others in the same dish. Italy meets Asia in an experimental rendition of focaccia served with seaweed butter.

A Korean yukhoe is Asia’s answer to France’s beef tartare, uniquely seasoned with sesame oil, almond, chilli and honeyed mustard seeds, and topped with a soy-cured egg yolk. The homemade pork bao buns are just that – homemade. The char siu pork belly is marinated in soy, mirin, sake and ginger, and served with a homemade teriyaki sauce and pickled cucumbers. Consider the bao bun game upped a level or two.

As with any good fusion restaurant, not all dishes have an Asian slant. The French foie gras is pan seared and served with a kumquat jam, homemade milk bread and fresh truffles. Though autumn has barely begun, this will top any aficionado’s list for warming winter comfort food.

The desserts lean towards the Mediterranean, though still boast an Asian twist. A selection of goodies ranging from sesame cake with a tonga bean cannolo, blackberry gel with matcha and white chocolate ice cream and a coconut fool make it impossible to resist a sweet ending to the meal.

Marea is worth a trip down south; a meander away from the hustle and bustle and the conventional destinations we pick time and time again. Life begins outside your comfort zone, so take that trip.

Simple flavours without the need for smoke and mirrors

TARRAGON

When Tarragon had first opened its doors in 2007, it was one of the island’s most loved fine dining restaurants. With a number of awards under their belt, Tarragon have adapted their menu of the year.

Today, the concept at Tarragon takes a field-to-fork approach, using locally-sourced ingredients for the lightest eco-footprint possible. Returning to their original way of thinking, they draw inspiration from the sea, taking most of their star ingredients out of the water while adding a more modern twist.

As you enter the restaurant, you’re met with a giant aquarium filled with rockfish. Just a stone’s throw away from the Mediterranean Sea with views of St Paul’s Island, it’s no wonder that fish takes centre stage. Their fresh fish is no more than 12 hours out of the water, so fresh that the chef insists on adding very little to the dish, in order to allow the natural flavours to come through.

The amuse-bouche on this particular occasion was green apple tacos with red mullet. The ingredients here are simple; tartare of red mullet wrapped in a finely sliced green apple and seasoned only with olive oil. The acidity from the green apple complements the fresh fish without overpowering the delicate flavours. Paired with a cocktail of calvados, gin and ancho reyes (a Mexican chilli liqueur), the simple flavour combinations create perfect balance.

“This,” the chef explains, “is what we’re developing in the new menu. No smoke and mirrors, just simple flavours delicately paired with minimal ingredients.” Their crudi follow the same concept; the freshest fish paired with acidic fruit – green apples, berries and orange flavours from a Blue Curacao jelly. The science of food features heavily in the menu at Tarragon, with a perfect balance of sweet, salt, acid and heat.

Though fish dishes take a prominent place on the menu, locallysourced vegetables also play a part. Fresh asparagus is brought in from Gozo daily and served in a delightful salad with a jammy hard-boiled egg and sharp pickled onions on top. The tomato tart is a celebration of local produce, featuring a combination of local varieties.

The dessert menu is true to the same concept - traditional cooking methods with a more modern twist. The crème brûlée is the perfect example, with a hint of Arabic ras el hanout mixed into the traditional French recipe.

The sunny islands of Malta have some wonderful ingredients to offer, and well-researched recipes and time taken to source the right ingredients are the perfect combination that will take Tarragon back to its original reputation as one of Malta’s leading fine dining restaurants.