SEASONAL AND SUSTAINABLE

Words by Rachel Zammit Cutajar Photography by Julia Boikova

Although the Michelin Guide’s expanding reach to the Maltese shores has motivated chefs to become more adventurous in the kitchen, there are still restaurants that favour the simplicity of good food. Adrian Hili believes that great ingredients are the key to delectable meals, and his Birgu restaurant, Terrone, is a showcase of the best of what Malta has to offer during every season.

You make friends in the unlikeliest of places. But those friendships are more often than not solidified over a nice meal. I had first met Adrian Hili from Terrone on a farm, in the south of the island in Delimara. We both adopted Pharaoh hound puppies from the same litter, and, with a common interest in locally sourced, seasonal food, we quickly became friends, and Terrone naturally became a favourite destination.

Adrian’s style of cooking is the sum of his experiences. His first memories of food were with his father, trawling the farmer’s markets in Australia, and helping him shell broad beans and other timeconsuming tasks in preparation for the family meal at weekends. Though he graduated university, he was uninterested in academics, and got a job in a professional kitchen at Rockpool, where he worked under celebrity chef Neil Perry. This is where he had started learning about the marvel of locally sourced ingredients as a means of conserving the region’s culinary tradition, whilst also doing one’s part in creating a more environmentally friendly and sustainable world.

The menu at Terrone is the sum of Adrian’s experiences. Changing daily, the dishes on the menu are dictated by the ingredients available. “I don’t like to interfere too much with the flavours offered by the ingredients. Heavy sauces with lots of exotic ingredients tend to drown out the natural flavours.” As he grills some local octopus over hot coals, he talks about using simpler cooking methods which allow the natural flavours to really shine. “My style is much simpler, allowing the ingredient to take centre stage. I only mildly accentuate the flavours through preparation.” When your cooking methods are this simple, the stakes to sourcing ingredients become higher. Having been in the restaurant business in Malta for many years, he’s made it his business to know where to get the right stuff. Working with a number of individual fishermen, Adrian often buys the fish while it’s still at sea; getting a phone call from any of his loyal fisherman friends is enough to secure the deal.

“I try not to use fishermen who use commercial methods, such as trawling, big nets and long lines; there’s a lot of collateral damage with this. The most sustainable way to catch fish is spear fishing. I’m in contact with a few people who spear fish as a hobby, and they bring in the bulk of the fish that I buy.”

Adrian had travelled the world working in kitchens, from Australia to the Amalfi Coast, all the way to London. Of these experiences, his time at the River Café was the most influential, where he learned to tweak his menus according to seasonality.

“We use a lot of tomatoes in the summer as they are at their best in under the scorching Maltese sun, but you won’t find a single tomato on the menu in the winter. As the summer eases into the cooler, wetter months, the tomatoes give way to meatier mushrooms. “One of my spear fishermen was injured last winter and couldn’t fish, so instead he foraged for mushrooms, a skill which I hope he maintains through the coming season.”

Nestled in the ancient fortifications of Fort Saint Angelo in Brigu, Terrone paints a stunning picture of what the island has to offer, from the yellow sandstone steeped in history to the contemporary ingredients that form a backdrop to his dishes. This glimpse into Maltese lifestyle has earned Terrone a place in the Michelin Guide and has us returning time and time again.

Chargrilled Maltese Octopus Fregola, Rosemary & Salted Anchovy

Serves 8

INGREDIENTS

- 1kg Maltese octopus - 200g fregola - 1 cup dry white wine - 1L fish stock - 1 carrot, diced - 1 onion, diced - 1 zucchini, diced - 1 garlic clove, crushed - Bunch of flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped - 1 lemon - 6 rosemary branches picked of their leaves - 10 salted anchovy fillets, washed and deboned - 350ml extra virgin olive oil - 1 Tbsp dijon mustard - Good quality sea salt flakes - Freshly ground pepper

METHOD

For the Anchovy & Rosemary Sauce

Pulse the rosemary leaves in a food processor until a dry paste is formed, add the anchovy fillets & mustard and continue to pulse until combined. Gradually add 200mL of the EVOO to form an emulsion (add a few drops of lemon juice to loosen if necessary). Refrigerate until required.

For the Octopus

Tenderise the octopus by freezing and then thawing completely. Bring a pot of salted water to the simmer (you can add some aromatics, whole cloves of garlic, parsley, leeks etc). Introduce the octopus to the simmering water by holding from the mantle and gently dunking the tentacles until they begin to curl. Eventually submerge the octopus and cook until the octopus is just tender but retains some of its natural crunch. Remove and chill immediately to halt the cooking process. Cut into 8 equal portions, oil and cook over hot coals for 3 minutes turning only once.

For the Fregola

Soften the onion, garlic, zucchini & carrot in 100ml of EVOO, add the dry Fregola and toss until coated with the oil. Increase the heat and deglaze with the white wine. Allow to evaporate and add the stock one ladle at a time until the Fregola is al dente.

To Finish

Place a serving spoon of Fregola on each plate, a grilled tentacle on top, drizzle with the anchovy & rosemary sauce, garnish with fresh parsley & a lemon wedge.

Burrata with chargrilled peaches & pistachio nuts

Serves 1

INGREDIENTS

- 1 burrata (125g) - 50ml good quality olive oil - 25ml good quality balsamic vinegar - A drizzle of carob syrup (or honey if unavailable) - 6 fresh basil leaves (leaves picked) - 20g pistachio nuts, chopped or crushed coarse - 1 ripe golden peach, de-stoned and quartered METHOD

Oil the peach quarters and grill over hot coals until grill marks are formed on all sides. Take care to allow time for this to happen. If they are turned too soon they may stick to the grill.

Remove from the grill and allow to cool in a bowl which allows any juices to be retained. Once cool, arrange the peaches in a serving bowl in a way that allows them to support the burrata without it rolling. Scatter the pistachio nuts over the cheese, drizzle with balsamic vinegar, carob syrup, peach juices & garnish with fresh basil leaves.

Chargrilled Maltese Sardines Marjoram Salmoriglio

Serves 2

INGREDIENTS

- 4 large sardines, scaled, gutted, rib bones and head removed - 150ml olive oil - 1 lemon - 2 cloves of garlic - Large bunch of marjoram (leaves picked) - Sea salt

METHOD

For the Marjoram Salmoriglio

In a mortar, combine the garlic, salt and marjoram leaves. Pound with a pestle until a thick paste is formed. Loosen gradually with the olive oil, until a pourable consistency is achieved. Add the juice of about half a lemon gradually, tasting as you go, until a balance is reached between the oil and the citric acid.

For the Sardines

Oil the fish well and grill over hot coals for about a minute on each side. It is imperative not to overcook them, or they will become dry and inedible. It is normal for the fish to be pink (undercooked) near to the bone.

To Finish

Place the hot fish on a serving plate and spoon a generous amount of Salmoriglio over. Serve immediately.

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