12 minute read
Restaurants reviews
from EBM Magazine #14
AN ESCAPE INTO LUXURY
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BEEFBAR
Opening its doors for the third season, Beefbar on the Beach easily claims the title of Malta’s most luxurious pool deck. And to top it off, it boasts some of the best food on the island.
The décor is a statement in refined yet understated luxury. Designed by Humbert and Poyet, the deep blues of the Mediterranean complement the yellows of the indigenous Maltese limestone prevalent throughout. It is the perfect spot to stetch out like a cat on the ultra-deluxe sun loungers while catching some rays and indulging in that Monaco lifestyle.
When lying by the pool, their Street Food menu is the perfect choice. An Asian-fusion selection of ceviche rosada - seabream ceviche with raspberry, yuzu and truffle oil, Wagyu beef gyoza and fresh tuna robata skewers drizzled with miso dressing - light bites that curb the day’s hunger without bringing on a food coma. But if you want to go down that route, they’re perfect to line your stomach after one-too-many cocktails from their scrumptious cocktail list; just the one drink from their menu is an impossible feat. Their wasabi-infused vodka with cucumber and lime juice can almost be counted as a green smoothie, couldn’t it?
When the skies are losing their last hues of pink, the restaurant offers the perfect end to the day. Beefbar have put a nail in the coffin of the tired old cliché of steakhouses drowning out their meats with sauces. Cooked to perfection, a sauce would only drown out the flavours of the meat and are not recommended. Ordered off a menu much like a wine menu, you can order cuts from different places from all over the world, with the WC Wagyu beef tomahawk claiming its place on this writer’s favourite piece off the menu.
Beefbar on the Beach is not just a restaurant, it’s a lifestyle. The only location of 16 worldwide Beefbar outlets to offer a combination of bar, restaurant and pool deck, this is the perfect escape for the professionally trendy, die-hard foodies, and anyone seeking out the finer things in life.
SUMMER PARADISE AT THE END OF A SECRET GARDEN
PHOENICIA
Having most of its original features preserved, Valletta is perhaps Malta’s loveliest city. As much as we enjoy the restaurant and café scene of this UNIESCO World Heritage site, it does get a little sweaty during the summer months. Our solution? The Bastion Bar and Restaurant at the city’s most historic hotel, The Phoenicia Malta.
From the get-go, you’re immediately transported into a world of quietude. Step in through the peacock gates and stroll through the 7.5 acres of mature garden, rich in colour from trellised bougainvillea and shaded by ancient trees.
Nestled in the baroque bastions, the infinity pool overlooks the Marina di Valletta, with views of the ancient walls built by the Knights of St John to your right, and luxury yachts sailing in and out of the harbour below. Take in the serene environment, sip on cocktails by the pool, and indulge in the freshest ingredients the Maltese Islands have to offer.
The secret to the Mediterranean diet lies in its selection of ingredients; fresh, seasonal produce with as little travel time from farm (or sea) to fork as possible. The menu at Bastion Bar and restaurant is a reflection of this, with a selection of seafood and meat dishes that make the most of the Mediterranean offerings.
Their bruschetta is made with succulent, plum tomatoes, grown in their very own kitchen garden, topped with crudi of local, red prawns. Tuna sahimi with sea asparagus, gluten-free calamari fritti and local mussels cooked in a white wine and garlic broth and served with crunchy grilled bread, allow patrons to indulge in all the flavours of the sea. Keep it light with a selection of starters or move on to grilled meats, fish or a selection of simple Italian pasta dishes, all made to order.
This hidden paradise at the end of the secret garden is the perfect place to get away from the heat this summer, turning Valletta into a cool town where anyone can dress so fine and look so pretty.
AN EXCEPTIONAL DINING EXPERIENCE IN A BOTANICAL PARADISE
PALAZZO PARISIO
Palazzo Parisio’s grand interiors and majestic gardens, dating back to the 18th century, are a sight to behold. As you step into the gardens, you are immediately taken in by the peace and tranquillity of this botanical paradise. Jasmine grows over trellises filling the warm summer air with scent, while the tinkling of the fountains lulls you into the serenity of a sleepy Mediterranean summer.
While the daytime dining experience focuses on the classic dishes that regulars have come to expect, the evening has taken on a brand-new concept in the form a degustation menu.
You would have heard of Chef Andrew Borg from his recent acquisition of a Michelin star from his previous post at Iniala Harbour. He has taken the reins at Luna, Palazzo Parisio’s brand new concept in evening dining under the stars.
Working closely with the resident gardener, Andrew creates dishes around produce available in their own kitchen garden. Other ingredients are then sourced from the very best of Malta’s producers, and his weekly menu comes alive, changing in accordance to what is in season and what is available on the day.
Though using the best of local ingredients, the dishes on the menu are by no means traditional. A blend of Asian flavours with Mediterranean tastes produces some truly exotic dishes; a Mediterranean risotto with tomato confit and crab topped with a coconut and lime Thai cream is simply delightful, as is the tuna belly tartare with miso and barrel-aged feta cheese, topped with a carpaccio of melon.
The Bar is slightly more casual, with guests enjoying cocktails and delectable bar bites, also created by Andrew Borg. These are certainly more than your aperitivo snack. Wagyu beef sliders with Comte cheese and pickled cucumber and foie gras parfait with a cardamom and star anise-scented marmalade, made from oranges from the garden are but two examples of the luxury nibbles available.
The bond between the Italian influence of the owners of Palazzo Parisio and the local expertise of the kitchen brigade promise an exceptional dining experience that exceeds expectations.
SERVICE WITH A SMILE
MEZZODI
As its capital city, Valletta is the heart and soul of Malta. Bustling with tourists and locals alike, the restaurant and café scene thrives. The sheer quantity of restaurants in the city are numerous, but there are few that have patrons returning time and time again.
Walking to Mezzodi is a treat in itself. Pass the beautiful Auberge de Castille, or Renzo Piano’s new parliament building, depending on the direction you’re coming from, and settle at one of the outdoor tables just beneath the ruins of the Royal Opera House. The smooth playlist and an icy cocktail put you in the right frame of mind for the delectable meal ahead.
What really sets this place apart is the impeccable service. Run by Chris and Michael Diacono, you’re sure to be looked after. Not only will Chris remember your favourite drink, but he’ll also remember the dishes you’ve enjoyed in the past, and he’s quick to recommend what might be up your street. He’s not often wrong! Should you have any special requirements, they are always quick to help.
Their cuisine focuses on seasonal produce, with a bit more of an eclectic flair. A number of classic Italian dishes are always on the menu – the Mezzodi carbonara is a must-try – while other dishes come and go with the seasons. Tuna with nduja and broccolini or spring rolls with confit duck, fennel and orange served with a tahini dressing, make this more than your average trattoria.
A cold, crisp glass of white wine is a must on a hot summer’s day, and the choice at Mezzodi is extensive, with a selection from both the old world and new. Rounding off your meal has never been sweeter. Just like the food menu, the dessert selection one changes often and takes advantage of seasonal ingredients, so be sure to leave room for a sweet finale.
Though the food is fine, the atmosphere is casual. Guests are just as likely to pop in after a day at the office as they are to book a table for a special occasion. Even dogs are allowed to sit with their owners – as long as they behave – and are served with the same gusto as their humans.
Whether taking a break from the bustle of Valletta life during the day, or sitting down to relax after a hard day’s work, sipping on a cocktail or two under the Old Opera House while you wait for your meal, is the perfect way to while away a summers’ day.
BLENDING CHIC AND COMFORT
GUISEPPI’S
Guiseppi’s Bar and Bistro, established in 1984, has been a hit among locals and tourists for decades. Homey dishes inspired by the chef patron’s mother, the menu has slowly become more refined, resulting in today’s offering of comfort food with a more lavish flair.
Warm and cosy in the winter, their outdoor deck is reminiscent of The Hamptons in the summer; wooden decking, large white umbrellas and plenty of trees – yes, some people appreciate trees – beautifully up lit in the fading light. Overlooking the stunning Salina Bay, settling down for a cocktail at the golden hour is the perfect antidote for a stressful day – and works wonders for your Instagram following!
Established in 1984, the restaurant has its roots in a traditional Maltese townhouse in Mellieha. Chef Patron, Michael Diacono, took over the restaurant from his brother’s father-in-law and has never looked back. Joined by his nephew, Chris Diacono and grandson of the original owner, Nannu Petes, in 2017, the pair moved the well-loved restaurant to the Salini Hotel.
The menu at Giuseppi’s changes daily and focuses on seasonal ingredients. Gozo asparagus season is something to look forward to at this establishment. While in Mellieha, Michael cooked more traditional dishes, and though some of the favourites – the tuna in coffee and the rabbit in chocolate – make an appearance on the menu every now and then, the menu at today’s Guiseppi’s is a little more chic – last week’s spaghetti with prawns and fresh truffles comes to mind. It’s a happy blend between the dishes your grandmother made (if you have a Mediterranean grandmother) and something a little more restaurant-worthy.
This summer, it’s Sunday evenings that should be catching your eye. Cocktails, bar bites and the smooth sounds of resident singer and songwriter Flip Giles are sure to end your weekend on a good note.
Deciding on Guiseppi’s Bar and Bistro for dinner is an easy choice, making a decision on what to eat, is slightly harder. Perhaps this is the reason guests keep returning time and time again.
Photo by Julia Boikova
SHARE A MOMENT IN MALTA’S HISTORICAL HEART
HAMMETT'S
It’s not often that we leave the confines of our favourite towns in search of new restaurants. After all, Valletta and St Julian’s have so much to offer, it’s hardly even necessary. However, when we find something worthy of a little bit of extra travel, it’s well worth the journey.
Getting to Hammett’s Macina in Birgu can be as much of an adventure as the meal itself. Instead of hopping into a taxi, why not get the ferry over from Valletta? Approaching the Three Cities gives you a small taste of what it must have been like to approach these imposing walls during the Great Siege.
The historical fortress walls contrast with modern interior design, offering the perfect blend between old and new. Outdoor dining in the evening offers an unforgettable experience with views of the imposing bastions, the fortified city of Birgu and the spectacular harbour, illuminated by the Festa fireworks display. Perfect paired with a lavender-infused gin cocktail with lemon and violet syrup.
Like the Maltese language the menu is a taste of history with Mediterranean and Semitic influences. A unique concept on the island, sharing is encouraged. Guests order a number of dishes to be placed at the centre of the table for sharing, so that they may dip into a variety of different flavours. Have you ever been to a restaurant and wanted to try everything on the menu? At Hammett’s Macina, you absolutely can!
Their ftira, tadam (tomato) and tahini is an exciting take on a local specialty, while the cream of pistachio dip is influenced by our Sicilian cousins. The cured fish and roasted meats are truly delectable – particularly the roasted quail with fennel and mandarin salad with lentil puree – but it is their vegetarian and vegan dishes that really steal the show, even if you do not lean towards a plant-based diet.
The concept of sharing food is not entirely new. However, Hammett’s Macina take a casual and social concept and refine each and every element. As the weather gets warmer, take to the seas and find yourself a spot in Malta’s historical heart.
Photo by Julia Boikova Photo by Julia Boikova