No 10 • 2016 Llyˆn AONB Newsletter
In this issue... projects, events and news Enlli News
The Sustainable Development Fund
Traditional Gates
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special area
Welcome to the 2016 edition of Llygad Llyˆn– the annual newsletter for the Llyˆn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). Contents The newsletter’s purpose is to provide background information about the area and its special designation and to report about the recent work of the Llyˆn AONB Team – as well as other partners who Llyˆn AONB Map ........................3 work for the benefit of the area. Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) AONB stands for an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Llyˆn is one of five AONB’s in Wales, designated under the National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act 1949. The other areas are the Gower Peninsula, Anglesey, Clwydian Range and Dee Valley, and Wye Valley. The designation’s main purpose is to protect, maintain and nurture an area’s natural beauty. This includes protecting wildlife and plants, as well as the area’s geological features and landscape. It is also important that archaeological features, historical remains and architectural features are also protected. For more information about each Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in Wales, England and Northern Ireland, visit the website for the Society of AONB’s – www.landscapeforlife.org.uk.
Llyˆn Peninsula The main basis for designating parts of Llyˆn as an AONB back in 1957 was the varied and interesting coastline and the beautiful landscape. Around a quarter of the peninsula, a total of 15,500 hectares is designated. Most of that land is coastal, but it also reaches inland to include Foel
Gron and Garnfadryn. Although the main basis is the natural beauty of the landscape and coastline, many other qualities belong to the area such as the varied wildlife, historical remains, the sea, the unique culture and the Welsh language which continues to thrive. The Llyˆn AONB Joint-Advisory Committee The Llyˆn AONB Joint-Advisory Committee was established in 1997 in order to contribute to the work of protecting and caring for the AONB. Among the members are local Councillors, members of Community Councils, and representatives from local agencies and organizations such as Cyfeillion Llyˆn, the Agricultural Unions and the National Trust. At the meetings, held about 2-3 times a year, members will discuss relevant national and local issues. They also contribute to the work of preparing the Management Plan and are informed about the work of other organizations relevant to the AONB. Also, there is a Sub-Committee (known as the Grants Panel) that decides on applications for a grant from the Sustainable Development Fund.
Walking Llyˆn’s Coast .............4 & 5 Traditional Gates .....................6 & 7 Circular Walks in Llyˆn ................... 8 Llyˆn Coastal Bus ...........................9 A New Marine Code for Gwynedd ....................10 Enlli News ..................................11 The Sustainable Development Fund .......12, 13 & 14 Llyˆn AONB 2015 Photography Competition ...........15 What’s on in 2016? .....................16
Published by: Llyˆn AONB Service
The Ll yˆn AONB Team
Printed by: Gwasg Carreg Gwalch, Llwyndyrys and Llanrwst
The Llyˆn AONB Team The Unit has two members of staff: Bleddyn Prys Jones – Llyˆn AONB Officer As the Llyˆn AONB Officer, Bleddyn leads Gwynedd Council’s core AONB work, national issues and the work of preparing and implementing the Management Plan.
Photos: Copyright of Gwynedd Council (unless stated otherwise) Cover photo: Porthdinllaen
Contact Details
Bleddyn Prys Jones
Llyˆn AONB Service, Countryside and Access Department, Gwynedd Council Offices, Ffordd y Cob, Pwllheli Gwynedd – LL53 5AA
Elin Wyn Hughes – Llyˆn AONB Projects Officer As Projects Officer, Elin leads on work deriving from the Management Plan and administers the Sustainable Development Fund. Elin also arranges events to raise awareness of the Llyˆn AONB and assists with updating the Management Plan.
(:
01758 704 155 / 01758 704 176
E-Mail: ahnellynaonb@gwynedd.gov.uk Website: www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org Elin Wyn Hughes
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Exploring Llyˆn’s Coast • • •
COUNTRYSIDE CODE RESPECT • PROTECT • ENJOY
• Be safe, plan ahead and and follow
Every year, the Llyˆn AONB Service will host guided walks in the area. They offer a great opportunity to enjoy the scenic views, meet new people and learn more about our rich heritage.
any signs
• Leave gates and property as you find them
• Protect plants and animals and take your litter home
• Keep dogs under close control • Consider other people
During 2015, walks were held at Garn Fadryn, Mynydd Cilan and Clynnog Fawr. At Garn Fadryn, we enjoyed the company of Dilwyn Morgan who shared his childhood memories about the area, and after reaching the summit there were a few discussions about the fantastic landscape all around us. On Mynydd Cilan, John Dilwyn Williams drew our attention to many interesting features such as the hoof print of Einion Frenin’s horse and we heard about the numerous ships that reached their demise in Porth Neigwl below. It is an ideal place to explore and a haven to all kinds of rare wildlife, especially seabirds. Our walk at Clynnog was led by archaeologist Rhys Mwyn and here is some more detail about that event...... ••••••••••
Clynnog Fawr is located on Llyˆn’s northern coast. It is a historic and picturesque village, full of character. As well as being within the AONB boundary, most of the centre of the village is a designated Conservation Area on the basis of its character and interesting architecture. For a small village, there are numerous interesting features around and places of historic importance. One of the most obvious of these is the Church, our meeting place on the day. This is one of north Wales’s most important churches, and very impressive in terms of its construction. It is one of many listed buildings in the village. It is believed to be established in the 7th Century by Saint Beuno, who is considered to be one of the main Celtic Saints. According to tradition, he possessed special healing powers. There is a record of the Church being burnt in the year 978 by the Vikings and then later by the Normans. By the late 15th Century, it was a collegiate church, one of only six across Wales. It seems the Church was an important destination for the pilgrims on their journey to Enlli, and the ancient wooden chest where the pilgrims would deposit their contribution, named Cyff Beuno, can be seen today. Many other interesting features can be seen on the site, such as the sundial in the cemetery, which dates back to the 10th Century.
Clynnog Church
The Sun Dial
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Cromlech Fachwen
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If you wish to explore the cemetery, there are many graves of national interest such as that of Ebenezer Thomas (Eben Fardd) – a famous poet and hymn writer who was a schoolmaster at Clynnog. Not far from the Church gates, there is a small path turning right towards the A499 highway. After crossing the road, we then followed a footpath to Cromlech Fachwen. This is a special type of burial chamber from the Neolithic era. It is likely that the chamber was used to bury someone of a high status in society. We were shown strange markings carved onto the upper stone and we had a lively discussion regarding their possible significance. We returned on the same path back to the village and visited Ffynnon Beuno before finishing our walk by the Church. Ffynnon Beuno is a well that has been a popular attraction for many centuries. According to tradition, it was a healing well and those of ill health would be immersed in its water and laid to rest on Beuno’s grave in the Church in the hope of a cure. During September 2016, guided walks Ffynnon Beuno will be held at Rhiw, Llanbedrog and Nant Gwrtheyrn. The three walks will offer fantastic scenery as well as a chance to see a variety of wildlife. Also of course, we will hear oral histories and appreciate many interesting features. To join these walks, it is essential to contact us beforehand for more information and to book your place. Please call 01758 704 176 or e-mail – AHNELlynAONB@gwynedd.gov.uk
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traditional gates
Clynnog
Traditional • • • • Gates • • • • Hedges, stone walls and cloddiau (stone faced earth banks) make an important contribution to the character of the landscape here in Llyˆn but old wrought iron gates also play their part. These heavy iron gates are traditional here in Llyˆn although some wooden gates have also been used. Wrought iron gates were made by blacksmiths in the area’s many local smithies. The gates were made in different styles according to the area and blacksmiths who made them. A century and more ago there were smithies in most of the area’s villages and they were important places for congregation and discussing the issues of the day. The blacksmiths who worked there were true craftsmen and would undertake a variety of iron-work including making gates, railings, horseshoes, agricultural implements etc. By today most of the old smithies have closed but many names are still retained and some instances the actual buildings survive – here are some examples: Efail Rhos, Rhoshirwaun, Efail Pont y Gof, Botwnnog, Efail Bemprys, Pentreuchaf, Efail Gledrydd and Efail, Tudweiliog (which is still operating). The Country Estates of Nanhoron, Cefnamwlch and Glynllifon had their own smithies and gates for their farms and
Llanengan
Efail Pont y Gof, Botwnnog
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Rhiw
Botwnnog
Bryncroes A new gate in Clynnog
new and old ...
traditional gates
properties were made to a particular style. Old estate farms can still be identified from design of the buildings and style of gates. Recently the AONB Grant Fund has supported a project by the Bardsey Trust to install new gates, based on original design by Glynllifon Estate, on the Island. Although many of the original wrought iron gates can still be seen today they are now getting scarcer. Some have been damaged or rusted away while others have been removed due to widening gateways for modern machinery. In some instances original stone gateposts have also been lost. In most cases the traditional gates have been exchanged for tubular galvanized ones. While these are plentiful, are available in a wide range of sizes and are easy to fit, they are plain and lack the character of the iron gates. The good news is that there are still local blacksmiths who can repair and make new traditional iron gates and that prices are quite reasonable. These gates look better, help sustain the area’s character and are made to last a lifetime! Also, there is a possibility that the AONB Service can offer a grant towards the cost of iron gates which can be seen by the public (roadside or on a path) on agricultural holdings. Please contact us for more information.
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c i r c u l a r w a l k s i n l l yˆ n
Coastal Comm un i tie s Fund
Clynnog Fawr Circular Walk
New Circular Walks in Llyˆn Gwynedd Council, along with other organizations in the area, has been successful in attracting funding from the Big Lottery Coastal Communities Fund. The aim of the Coastal Communities Fund is to encourage economic development of coastal communities in the United Kingdom by awarding money to create economic growth and sustainable jobs. Gwynedd Council has received £280,205 towards developing and upgrading footpaths and creating 18 new circular walks connected to the Coastal Path, and to promote them with the aim of attracting economic investment to nearby communities.
Llangwnnadl Circular Walk
Many resources are being developed to promote this by using videos and images, as well other social media such as Facebook. An interactive map will be developed that will highlight the details of each walk. This project will also support coastal events an will target walking magazines. Many of these circular walks are located within the Llyˆn AONB, including Clynnog, Trefor, Tre’r Ceiri, Edern,Tudweiliog, Aberdaron, Llangwnnadl, Rhiw and Llanbedrog. Mel Parry was appointed, in co-operation with Myrddin ap Dafydd and Neil Johnstone, to walk the paths and then write about each one, and pay particular attention to heritage, cultural and ecological sites as well as provide information about which facilities and attractions are in the surrounding areas. All this information will be provided on the following websites – www.ymweldageryri.info and www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org . Purpose made signs that provide information about each cirlcular walk will be erected during 2016.
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Following the successful trial of the Coastal Bus by community enterprise O Ddrws i Ddrws during summer 2014, they have also received funding to continue with the Coastal Bus provision between March and October 2016. This year, two buses will be used and will run for four days a week between Nefyn and Abersoch. There are five specific locations where you can embark on the bus (Nefyn, Porthor, Aberdaron, Pentowyn and Abersoch) but it is also possible to arrange to be picked up in other places by arrangement beforehand. It is a useful service for local people as well as visitors, and is available for only £1. Contact O Ddrws i Ddrws on 01758 721777 or oddrwsiddrws@yahoo.co.uk for more information or to book your seat.
ˆ COASTAL BUS ROUTE
COASTAL PATH
PICK UP AREA
l l yˆ n c o a s t a l b u s
Llyˆn Coastal Bus
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P A G E 10
marine code for Gwynedd
A New Marine Code for Gwynedd The Marine Ecosystems Project is a pilot scheme located in Llyˆn and derives from the work of the Pen Llyˆn a’r Sarnau Special Area of Conservation (www.penllynarsarnau.co.uk). This project is a result of a document drafted by the Welsh Fishermen Association that offers a way of managing the area’s seas that would improve our understanding of the marine environment and promote the improvement of ecosystems without having a negative impact on local fishermen and communities. The aim is to protect the culture and economy and protect traditional fisheries and recreational activities. Therefore the Pen Llyˆn a’r Sarnau SAC and the Welsh Fishermen Association are joining together to lead a project that reflects the fact that conservation and the fishing industry go hand in hand and there is a strong emphasis on joint-management and consultation. One element of the project is a new Marine Code. The previous code was dated, so the project has developed a new code for Gwynedd. Following the success of a similar process by Ceredigion Council recently, discussions were held with the relevant officers and it was agreed to share the same code, or at least use their code as a basis for the new code for Gwynedd. This has avoided duplication and ensures consistency across the bay. With the cooperation of Barry Davies from Gwynedd Council’s Maritime Unit, the code will be distributed to all registered boat users in the county and will be available in all harbours. There is also a copy on the Llyˆn AONB website – www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org The code aims to protect that fantastic wildlife we have in this area therefore it is vital that it is followed by everyone in order to enjoy the sea, without harming any dolphin, porpoise or nesting bird. The code enables us to enjoy seeing the different species that live in Pen Llyˆn a’r Sarnau, in a way that is safe for everyone. Therefore, please bear it in mind when you enjoy the Llyˆn coast over the summer. For more information about the Marine Code or the Marine Ecosystems Project, please call Catrin Glyn on 01286 679 445.
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P A G E 11
Without a doubt, one of the most popular and famous attractions of Llyˆn is Ynys Enlli. Seperated from the turbulent Enlli sound, this is a legendary island with Christian links dating back to a very early period. Pilgrims from far and wide were attracted here over the centuries and according to tradition, three pilgrimages to Enlli amounted to one to Rome. It is said that 20,000 saints are buried in the island. The island is rich in historical ruins and buildings and is home to a wide variety of wildlife. These features, as well as Enlli’s enchantment and beauty mean that many designations are associated with it. Amongst these (as well as the AONB designation), Enlli is a Conservation Area, a National Nature Reserve, a Site of Special Scientific Interest and is part of the Pen Llyˆn a’r Sarnau Special Conservation Area (www.penllynarsarnau.co.uk). Currently, a Heritage Management Plan for Ynys Enlli is being developed by the Gwynedd Archaeological Trust in partnership with the Bardsey Island (Ynys Enlli) Trust. The aim is to improve the understanding of the island’s archaeology, assess the significance of archaeological features and provide appropriate information and a strategic framework to ensure that the historic environment is an integral part of land management. It is also an intention to recognise any issues regarding managing archaeology on the island and create recommendations to address those issues. We look forward to hear about the Plan’s development during the year. Another exiting development recently on Enlli is the appointment of Sian Stacey as a new manager. With over 300 people worldwide applying for the post, it was Sian, originally from Carmarthenshire who was successful. Her role will include looking after visitors as well as undertaking maintenance work on the cottages. An interesting account of life on Enlli can be seen on Sian’s blog – www.bardseyislandlife.blogspot.co.uk. Books have recently been published also by Gwasg Carreg Gwalch that give us an insight into life on Enlli, today and in years gone by – Pobol Enlli (edited by Myrddin ap Dafydd) and Enlli – Tu hwnt i’r swnt (Marian Delyth). For more information about Enlli, and how to arrange a visit, more information can be found on the following website – www.enlli.org.
Enlli news
Enlli News
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the sustainable development fund
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P A G E 12
The Sustainable Development Fund ••••••
The Fund provides grants for projects that benefit the environment, the economy, the culture or community in Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The projects should be innovative and should develop a more sustainable way of living. Here are a few examples of projects in Llyˆn that we’ve supported over the last 12 months Improving the Garden at Meithrinfa Blagur
An interesting project was developed recently in Rhydyclafdy with the support from the Sustainable Development Fund. At Meithrinfa Blagur, wasteland was restored and a rather special garden was developed. Overgrowth was cleared from the site and materials were bought, such as fine slate, planters, bird boxes and plants and a local contractor assisted with the work of creating the new garden. By now, the garden is a haven to all types of wildlife and is an ideal place for the children, who are cared for at Blagur, to play and engage with their surrounding environment. The project also has benefited the local community, as an area in a prominent position has now been improved. The project was very worthy of the Fund’s support and reached many of the environmental and social criteria.
Remembering Elizabeth Watkin Jones Filming work has been undertaken recently to record the history of one of the area’s famous authors. Elizabeth Watkin Jones was born in Nefyn in 1887 and produced many children’s books that are still popular to this day, such as Luned Bengoch and Plant y Mynachdy. 50 years after her death, Llyˆn Maritime Museum have lead a project to remember her and an element of this was to create a film that included local people who knew here sharing their stories. This was an interesting and important project that has ensured that local history will be remembered for future generations. The film will be shown in the Museum as part of a wider exhibition during 2016.
Discovering Aberdaron For centuries, Aberdaron has been a popular destination for visitors from all parts. It’s a picturesque village with a unique character, beautiful beach and many interesting historical sites here and there. Aberdaron is just as popular today as it was at the time pilgrims flocked there on the journey to Enlli. This is also one of the strongholds of the Welsh language and the village and surrounding area boasts rich history and folklore. A project was developed by the Aberdaron and District Tourist Link to raise awareness and take pride in this special place, its language and heritage. Basic Welsh language courses were arranged for visitors to then visit local shops, cafes and pubs to practice their new skills. Bus tours were also arranged around the area to highlight the numerous features and historical sites – as well as the stunning scenery of course! The project was a great success and a fun and different way of promoting this special area at the far end of the Llyˆn.
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Plasdy Bodwrdda, Aberdaron Many interesting talks were held during January and February this year at Canolfan Bryncroes with the Fund’s support. Canolfan Bryncroes Ffynnon Fair, Bryncroes committee members wished to give people the opportunity to socialise and enjoy lectures about the area’s history. Many interesting stories and features relate to Bryncroes and surrounding parishes such as wells, farms, manor houses and estates, hill forts and old taverns. There are many interesting stories relating to the area’s residents over the centuries also, and it is important to take the opportunity to preserve their stories. The talks were a great success with the former school full during each talk. Amongst the guest speakers were the historian John Dilwyn Williams and Glyn Roberts, a member of the Ganolfan’s committee An Exhibition by Arlunwyr Sarn Artists With the Fund’s support, a group of local artists have taken the opportunity to further develop their skills, and hold an impressive exhibition of their work at Canolfan Porth y Swnt, Aberdaron. Arlunwyr Sarn Artists purchased a special printing press to experiment with different techniques and the group worked hard to create artwork based on Llyˆn’s special features. Part of the exhibition was based on the popular poem by Meirion MacIntyre Huws, “Penrhyn Llyˆn”. This project reached many of the Fund’s criteria, especially for promoting the AONB and its unique features and the local culture to a large audience.
Celebrating Carnguwch Church Friends of Carnguwch Church became another group who developed an interesting project with the Fund’s support. Their aim was to hold a concert at the Church and a guided walk. The history of Carnguwch Church, which is dedicated to Saint Beuno, reaches back for centuries and many interesting historical features can be seen around such as a standing stone and derelict building. The events were an opportunity for the community to learn more about the area’s rich heritage and appreciate the stunning scenery. There was an opportunity also to raise money for a long-term project to improve the provision at the Church and expand the cemetery.
For more information regarding the Sustainable Development Fund, contact Llyˆn AONB Project Officer:
01758 704 176
ahnellynaonb@gwynedd.gov.uk
the sustainable development fund
Talks on Local History – Canolfan Bryncroes
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the sustainable development fund
••••••
The Sustainable Development Fund (continued) •••••• Aberdaron Sailing Club A recent project by Aberdaron Sailing Club (Cymdeithas Hwylio a Chymdeithasol Hogia’ Llyˆn) was very deserving of the Fund’s support. The Club promotes and arranges a varied programme of maritime activities at the far end of Llyˆn. The aim of their project was to upgrade as well as purchase new equipment, as well as offer training sessions for local young people and first aid training for volunteers. In an area with such strong maritime heritage, it was a worthwhile project and it was good to see so many local people gaining from it.
Cynnyrch Ll yˆn Market The Fund helped to establish an important and popular event – the Cynnyrch Llyˆn Market. This Market is now held regularly on the first Saturday of each month at Sarn Memorial Hall, with a feast of local produce such as meats, vegetables, eggs, cheese, bread, cakes and pickles. There are also many unique crafts that are great as gifts and special occasions. Cymydmaen Cyf. led this project and it was well worthy of the Fund’s support by boosting local producers and also encouraging people to adopt a more sustainable way of life.
•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
New Cynnyrch Llyˆn Development Officers With the development of the Cynnyrch Llyˆn market and the obvious interest in the area in fresh, local produce, Cynnyrch Llyˆn Development Officers have been recently appointed to work on exiting projects over the coming months. Dafydd Hughes and Ffion Strong will work at Neuadd Sarn every Tuesday between 9 and 1 o’clock and every Wednesday between 3 and 6 o’clock. “We will concentrate on developing and promoting creating and selling locally. Therefore if you are interested in creating and selling local produce, or want more information about Cynnyrch Llyˆn projects, which includes the Market, come and see us!” You can also contact via e-mail at cynnyrchllyn@gmail.com.
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P A G E 15
Every so often, the AONB Service runs a Photography Competition under various themes. The aim is to encourage people to enjoy exploring the area and draw attention to all the special features and scenery. In 2015, a competition was held under the theme "Llyˆn Heritage". This was a great opportunity to receive an interesting collection of photographs and we were not disappointed. These three pictures came out on top. Thanks to Mari Jones of Oriel Plas Glyn y Weddw for judging.
1st – Sant Gwynhoedl’s Church by Michelle Brecken Sant Gwynhoedl’s Church, named after one of Llyˆn’s early saints, is located in Llangwnnadl parish and there are many interesting stories and features associated with it. Within the church there is a stone relating to Gwynhoedl, which many believe to be his tombstone. During the middle ages, Gwynhoedl’s altar became very popular, and was one of the most important locations on the Pilgrim’s Route to Ynys Enlli.
2nd – Porth Meudwy by Rory Trappe Here is a small but busy port a short distance from Aberdaron. There is a wonderful route from the village along the Coastal Path and down the steep steps to the beach. It was from here that the pilgrims would embark on their journey across the Sound to Enlli and it is their reclusive nature that has given Porth Meudwy its name. Boat trips to the island leave from here.
3rd – Porth Cychod by Dawn Jones Porth Cychod is a sheltered cove near Porth Ysgaden, popular with local fishermen. One memorable story associated with the place was of two local youths who started on a great adventure from here in March 1933. They started out in a boat to install lobster pots, but lost one of their oars. They were carried out to sea and were washed ashore in Kilkeel, Northern Ireland two days later. We can imagine the concern of the villagers of Tudweiliog, as well as their joy when a message was received that the boys were alive and well.
Congratulations to the winners, and many thanks to all entrants for taking part.
photography competition 2015
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A R E A O F O U T S TA N D I N G N AT U R A L B E AU T Y
What’s Going On in 2016? There’s something to suit everyone going on in Llyˆn throughout the year, whether it’s an agricultural show, ploughing match or eisteddfod. • The Llyˆn Coastal Festival will return over the summer months, with a series of events organized by ourselves and our partners. Many interesting and exiting activities to suit everyone will be part of the Festival. Here is a taste of this year’s events;
National Trust
Plas Heli May 28th - 29th – Llyˆn Land and Seafood Festival June 5th – Llyˆn Coastal Sportif June 10th - 12th – Pwllheli Boat Show www.plasheli.org
June 18th – Blas y Môr (Taste of the Sea) Porthdinllaen July 10th – Blas y Môr (Taste of the Sea) Aberdaron July 29th – Fun Day on Porthdinllaen Beach August 1st – Fun Day on Llanbedrog Beach August 15th – Fun Day on Porthor Beach
www.nationaltrust.org.uk/llyn-peninsula
Ll yˆn AONB September 10th – Y Rhiw Guided Walk September 15th – Llanbedrog Guided Walk September 24th – Nant Gwrtheyrn Guided Walk (Pre-booking beforehand is essential and to gain more information – 01758 704 176)
Nefyn and Tudweiliog Agricultural Shows Nefyn – May 2nd
Tudweiliog – August 13th
The area’s main events will be shown in the Event Diary on the Llyˆn AONB’s website, so have a look at the latest information about what’s on throughout the year. www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org
Nefyn Show