No 9 • 2015 Llyˆ n AONB Newsletter
In this issue… projects, events and news Walking
Photography Competition
Ecomuseum
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special area
Welcome to the 2015 edition of Llygad Llˆyn – the annual newsletter for the Llˆyn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). The newsletter’s purpose is to provide background information about the area and its special designation and to report on the recent work of the Llyˆn AONB Team – as well as other partners who work for the benefit of the area. Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) AONB stands for an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Llyˆn is one of five AONB’s in Wales, designated under the National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act 1949. The other areas are the Gower Peninsula, Anglesey, Clwydian Range and Dee Valley, and Wye Valley. The designation’s main purpose is to protect, maintain and nurture an area’s natural beauty. This includes protecting wildlife and plants, as well as the area’s geological features and landscape. It is also important that archaeological features, historical remains and architectural features are also protected. For more information about each Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in Wales, England and Northern Ireland, visit the website for the Society of AONB’s – www.landscapeforlife.org.uk.
Contents Llyˆn AONB Map ........................3
Llyˆn Peninsula The main basis for designating parts of Llyˆn as an AONB back in 1956 was the varied and interesting coastline and the beautiful landscape. Around a quarter of the peninsula, a total of 15,500 hectares is designated. Most of that land is coastal, but it also reaches inland to include Foel Gron and Garnfadryn. Although the main basis is the natural beauty of the landscape and coastline, many other qualities belong to the area such as the varied wildlife, historical remains, the sea, the unique culture and the Welsh language which continues to thrive.
The Llyˆn AONB Joint-Advisory Committee The Llyˆn AONB Joint-Advisory Committee was established in 1997 in order to contribute to the work of protecting and caring for the AONB. Among the members are local Councillors, members of Community Councils, and representatives from local agencies and organizations such as Cyfeillion Llyˆn, the Agricultural Unions and the National Trust. At the meetings, held about 2-3 times a year, members will discuss relevant national and local issues. They also contribute to the work of preparing the Management Plan and are informed about the work of other organizations relevant to the AONB. Also, there is a Sub-Committee (known as the Grants Panel) that decides on applications for a grant from the Sustainable Development Fund.
Walking Llyˆn’s Coast .............4 & 5 Research into the History of Llyˆn’s Pubs ….................. 6 & 7 Tidying and Restoring ...........8 & 9 The Official Opening of Llyˆn Maritime Museum ............10 Wales’ First Ecomuseum ….......11 The Sustainable Development Fund ..........12 & 13 2015 Photography Competition….....14 What’s Going On in 2015? .......15 Protecting and Managing the AONB ...............................16
Published by: Llyˆn AONB Unit
The Ll yˆn AONB Team Congratulations to Elin Wyn Hughes (AONB Project Officer) on the birth of Dafydd. Over Elin’s maternity, Catrin Glyn will be working as a temporary Project Officer with the Unit’s Manager, Bleddyn Prys Jones. Bleddyn and Catrin work in the AONB Unit in the Dwyfor Offices in Pwllheli, Bleddyn leads on the unit’s core work and the Managment Plan and Catrin works on projects arising from the scheme and administrates the Sustainable Development Fund.
Printed by: Gwasg Carreg Gwalch, Llwyndyrys and Llanrwst Photos: Copyright of Gwynedd Council (unless stated otherwise) Cover photo: Chris Chown
Bleddyn Jones
Contact Details Llyˆn AONB Unit, Countryside and Access Department, Gwynedd Council Offices, Ffordd y Cob, Pwllheli Gwynedd – LL53 5AA (:
01758 704 155 / 01758 704 176
E-Mail: ahnellynaonb@gwynedd.gov.uk Website: www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org
Catrin Glyn
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l l ˆy n A O N B m a p
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w a l k i n g l l ˆy n ’ s c o a s t
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Wa l k i n g L l ˆy n ’ s C o a s t
COUNTRYSIDE CODE
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RESPECT • PROTECT • ENJOY
• Be safe, plan ahead
Every year, the Llyˆn AONB Unit arranges guided walks in the area. They offer a great opportunity to enjoy the scenery, meet new people and learn more about the area’s rich history. At the end of September, 2014, a walk
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was organised by Llyˆn AONB, together with Rhys Roberts who works for Gwynedd Council as the Coastal Path Project Officer.
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and and follow any signs Leave gates and property as you find them Protect plants and animals and take your litter home Keep dogs under close control Consider other people
Porthor Walk The meeting point for our walk was The National Trust car park (grid reference – SH170293). As well as being within the boundaries of Llyˆn AONB, this area is also within other statuary designations. One of these is Pen Llyˆn and the Sarnau Special Area of Conservation (www.penllynarsarnau.co.uk). The reason for this designation is to protect the vast variety of marine wildlife that lives here. Seals are often seen here and even dolphins. The area near the beach is also a stronghold for the Chough, Razorbills, Guillemots, Kittiwakes, Cormorants, Shags and Yellowhammers. Porthor is also within the Site of Special Scientific interest of Aberdaron Shores. There are over a thousand Sites of Special Scientific Interest throughout Wales and they are heavily protected because of the habitats, the species and special geological aspects within the site. The Walk We headed east from the bottom of the car park towards Porth Iago, joining the Coastal Path. Instantly we were walking above Porthor, a stunning beach often referred to as “Whistling Sands”, the reason being that it’s possible to hear the golden sand whistling under your feet. We followed the path and enjoyed a respite above the beautiful creek of Porth Gyfyng,where Rhys Roberts introduced the brand-new part of the Coastal Path and explained the day to day maintenance work in detail. Rhys highlighted the kind co-operation of the local landowners who have contributed to secure such a valuable resource as the Coastal Path to the area. Soon, we were walking above the cliffs of Porth y Wrach (The Witch’s Port). There is no certainty as to the source of this interesting name. One could easily imagine some link with a witch at some point in time, but more likely, the name refers to the special fish that live here – Gwrachennod (Wrasse). Soon we came to a small headland called Trwyn Glas, and towards Porth Llwynog. Situated here, is Ogof Newry, a cave with its name associated with a tragedy that occurred here back in April 1830. The Newry was a ship bound from Northern Ireland to Quebec in Canada, with nearly 400 emigrants on board. The ship was wrecked in a storm near Anelog, and it’s said that the remains came to shore here. What was the fate of the poor travellers? Records show that around 25 drowned and were buried at St Hywyn’s Church, Aberdaron. The others were rescued by members of the ship’s crew and some brave local men who went to help. One of those was Dafydd Griffiths, who lived at Morfa Trwyn Glas farm. The Newry isn’t the only ship to reach its demise on this coast over the centuries. We were told of the story of a ship called Lovely wrecked in 1802 on Maen Mellt, a protruding rock out at sea that can be seen from here.
Photo: Turtle Photography
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Maps showing the Llyˆn Coastal Path can be found on the AONB website www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org in the ‘Visiting’ section
Photo: Turtle Photography
w a l k i n g l l ˆy n ’ s c o a s t
Soon, we were walking above Graig Ddu looking down at the sheltered and sandy beach of Porth Iago where we had a chance to rest and enjoy the view once more. The Coastal Path continues from Porth Iago towards Porth Ferin. Nevertheless, we wanted to return to Porthor and permission was granted by the landowner to walk along the private lane through Tyˆ Mawr farm back on to the public road by Tyˆ Hen. Before arriving at Methlem, we turned right, off the main road and back onto a public footpath. This enabled us to walk back to Porthor Cafe along the beach, where we had a warm welcome and a lovely cup of tea. The café itself has a very interesting history as it used to be a coal yard back when Porthor was a busy port, and was known as ‘Coal Hole Café. Our walk came to an end on the lane leading from the beach back to the parking, with everyone having enjoyed the walk immensely. Anyone is welcome to join our walks and information about the latest walks can be seen on page 15. Please contact us before hand to secure your place and to ensure that the walk is suitable.
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h i s t o r y o f l l yˆ n ’ s p u b s
Research into the history of Llyˆn’s Pubs Nanhoron Arms, Nefyn Ship, Aberdaron Llyˆn’s historic environment is a special factor and a big contributor towards the important designation of the area as an AONB. Therefore, it’s very important to undertake research from time to time on interesting historical aspects and to assure that the history is recorded and preserved. This was the basis of the research carried out in 2014 by Mr John Dilwyn Williams on behalf of the AONB Unit, into the history of Llyˆn’s pubs. The area is full of buildings that at one time were busy pubs and an important part of the society, some of which still thrive today. The research looked at the pub’s locations and introduced interesting stories and facts about them. For example, there were once three pubs in Aberdaron. The Gegin Fawr was one of them, which is today a popular café – and supposedly so, the barmaid was summoned to court for working under the influence of alcohol! The meaning of the logo that can be seen on some pubs in old Gegin Fawr, Aberdaron pictures was also explained as the Cyclists’ Touring
Club’s Logo. It’s seen here for example on the Sun Inn in Llanengan and the Nanhoron Arms in Nefyn (notice that the Nanhoron Arms is in a different location than it is today).
Sun Inn, Llanengan
The Whitehall Pub, Pwllheli. Today The Mostyn Arms Hotel is a Hairdressing Salon.
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l l yˆ n p u b s q u i z
The result of the research was presented in a talk in Sarn Mellteyrn Village hall. Many praised the work and it was suggested that the research should the published. Dafarn Newydd, Abersoch – today and yesteryear
Here are some buildings which were once Pubs. We have noted their names, but do you recognise the villages? answers on page 14
1. Royal Oak
2. Victoria (left) and the Pengwern
4. Wellington
or Jolly Farmers facing us.
5. White Horse
3. Penponcyn
6. Ship
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tidying and restoring
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Tidying and Restoring • • • • • • • • • Tidying Historic Wells
From time to time, essential maintenance work is needed on the site of some of Llyˆn’s historic wells. As the seasons go by, the weather and vegetation are elements that affect these important sites and it soon becomes impossible to access them. During 2014, the AONB Unit worked together with Keep Wales Tidy to hold events to clear two sites. Thanks to all the volunteers who helped with this project, and particularly to Lee Oliver from Keep Wales Tidy for organising the events and ensuring that the necessary equipment and refreshments were on hand. Ffynnon Aelrhiw Ffynnon Aelrhiw is situated a stone’s throw from Eglwys Sant Aelrhiw in Rhiw. There are beautiful views from here of Porth Neigwl and beyond. It is a holy and very historic well. It was believed for centuries that its waters could heal certain skin conditions. A good group of volunteers came to help, and within no time, the thick thorns and brambles were cleared from the site.
Ffynnon Aelrhiw
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This is an interesting well in terms of its history and architecture. A detailed description is given by Myrddin Fardd in his book, Llên Gwerin Sir Gaernarfon (1908), where he states that it is an excellent well with surrounding walls, stairs leading to it, benches for its users and two baths. It is situated past Capel Horeb in Mynytho. According to tradition, the water is beneficial to eye disorders among other illnesses. Bracken and hemlock were amongst the thick growth on site, but with enthusiastic volunteers, it was soon cleared.
Restoring Pont Inkerman’s sign The AONB Unit from time to time restore old road signs, milestones or any other interesting feature seen along the area’s rural roads. This is an effort to protect our historic environment as well as the area’s unique character. One interesting project recently developed was to erect a new sign on Pont Llidiart y Dw ˆ r, a bridge situated in the wooded valley of Nanhoron. The sign replaced another, which had been there for some years and had deteriorated. Another name for this bridge, as stated in the sign is Pont Inkerman. But what is the background of this foreign name? There is another equally foreign name adopted on a nearby lane – the original sign can still be seen. If you go on the road past Pont Inkerman, you’ll reach a crossroad at Rhydgaled. The road straight ahead is Ffordd Balaclava. The two names above refer to the Crimean War and its impact on the Nanhoron Estate and its family. The Battle of Balaclava was fought in October 1854 and the Battle of Inkerman the following month. The siege of Sebastopol lasted until 1855, and it was there that the heir to the Nanhoron estate, Captain Richard Lloyd Edwards was killed on May 11th. He was 22 years old.
tidying and restoring
Ffynnon Fyw
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official opening
The Official Opening of the Llyˆn Maritime Museum A good crowd gathered in Nefyn in July 2014 for the official opening of the Llyˆn Maritime Museum. This was the outcome of years of hard work to raise money and to raise the profile of the project. The opening began in Capel Isa’, then everyone had the chance to head to the museum to have a look and to enjoy some light refreshments. During the ceremony, Harri Richards sang a song celebrating the original museum back in 1977, written by the late Joni Owen. Roger Stephens Jones gave a reading from Growing up Among Sailors by J.Ifor Davies, Anna Georgina played some maritime tunes on her harp and the former vicar Wheldon Thomas spoke about the original museum.
The official opening with the historian and lecturer, John Dilwyn Williams.
The ceremony in Capel Isa’.
This site is an important facility for the area and we wish the Museum every success. You are certain to have a worthwhile experience if you wish to visit. For more information and opening times, take a look at the museum’s website – www.llyn-maritime-museum.co.uk or get in touch by calling 01758 721313 / 0791 7700 851.
The brand-new museum.
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Social media training session for the partners
A very exciting development happened in Llyˆn during the last few months when Wales’ first Ecomuseum was established. Ecomuseums are very popular in Europe with over 200 established there since the 70’s. Ecomuseums celebrate the identity and richness of a specific area. They are very dependent on the participation of the community and aim to better the welfare and development of the local communities. There isn’t a specific model to follow for any ecomuseum, but they all share the same vision. This ecomuseum operates in partnership with seven other heritage organisations in the area, Nant Gwrtheyrn, Llyˆn Maritime Museum, Felin Uchaf, Porth y Swnt, Plas Glyn-y-Weddw and Plas Heli. It continues the heritage work started by the Llyˆn Landscape Partnership.
Their vision is to see an increase in cultural tourism, which leads to a sustainable four season tourism industry that will bring not only economic benefits but some social and environmental benefits also. It will operate digitally by using new technology and social media in an innovative and positive way to attract social participation and a worldwide audience to this special area. @ecoamgueddfa #Ecoamgueddfa The Ecomuseum team
www.ecoamgueddfa.org
wales’ first ecomuseum
Wales’ first Ecomuseum
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sustainable development fund
••• The
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Sustainable Development Fund •••
The Sustainable Development Fund (SDF) was established by the Welsh Government in 2001. The Fund provides grants for projects that benefit the environment, the economy, the culture or community in Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The projects should be innovative and should develop a more sustainable way of living. Here are a few examples of projects in Llyˆn that we’ve supported over the last few months
Llyˆn’s Coastal Bus During the summer of 2014, an innovative pilot scheme was trialled by a local transport company, O Ddrws i Ddrws. The bus service initially ran every Sunday, parallel to the Coastal Path between Nefyn and Aberdaron, where no such provision was available before. The funding from the Sustainable Development Fund was used for marketing and coordination costs. It was a very exciting scheme reaching many of the fund’s criteria by: • Promoting sustainable travel • Reducing traffic in the area • Encouraging more people to use the Coastal Path • Encouraging more to people to visit the area’s heritage attractions. The scheme was a huge success with many praising the flexibility of the service. Some could walk part of the Coastal Path then be transported back to their starting point in the afternoon. Others enjoyed getting transported to secluded sites such as Porth Ysgaden and Porth Iago (by booking a seat beforehand, it was possible to ask the driver to divert off the main road). O Ddrws i Ddrws plan to develop the provision further by increasing the number of weekdays that the bus will be available. It is also an intention to extend the service to other areas in Llyˆn edging with the Coastal Path. We wish every success to the enterprise and we’ll look A happy customer at Uwchmynydd forward to hear about the developments.
Plas Carmel Project Close to the village of Aberdaron is the interesting site of Plas Carmel. Situated there is Capel Carmel, which is a building of special architect and historical interest and registered as a Grade II* by CADW. The Chapel House attached is also registered as Grade II. Seen within the curtilage of the site also is a zinc building that was a rural shop.
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Gerddi’r Ddôl and Nefyn’s Orchard There have been exciting developments in Nefyn over the last few months with two projects being supported a stone’s throw from each other. The first application came from Nefyn Town Council to develop Gerddi’r Ddôl, and to create 21 allotments for the local people. Following planning permission, preparation of the site was underway, with funding from the Fund being used for work such as draining and ploughing the land, fencing, erecting a gate and creating a footpath. The project reached many of the Fund’s requirements by: • Helping people to save money by growing their own food • Reducing the amount of miles travelled before the produce reaches the table • Developing new habitats for wildlife • Encouraging more to take part in leisure and healthy activities. On the land opposite to the allotments, another project was developed to establish and orchard. The various fruit trees planted included apple, pear and plum trees. The goal is to distribute the produce to the local people in the future. Again, this is a project that offers a lot of benefits to the AONB in a social, economic and especially an environmental way. Fruit trees have a high biodiversity value and offers benefits to birds and pollinators especially.
For more information regarding the Sustainable Development Fund, contact Llyˆn AONB Project Officer:
01758 704 176
ahnellynaonb@gwynedd.gov.uk
sustainable development fund
This site is located in an environment full of history. Nearby was the home of the famous linguist and traveller, Dic Aberdaron. Also the remains of Mynydd Carreg’s Jasper quarry, and it was in this area too that the stones of Anelog were discovered. These are inscribed memorial stones that date back between the 5th and the start of the 6th century. Now seen at Aberdaron Church, they commemorate (in Latin) two priests called Senacus and Veracius. Some months ago, a public meeting was held to discuss the future of the site. The condition of the Chapel has deteriorated and is now closed to the public. The house and shop are also empty. A Committee was formed to achieve the goal of protecting and preserving the Chapel and to create a project to develop the site for the benefit of the community, and possibly the economy. The committee secured funding from the Fund to commission an architect to assess the condition of the buildings and to offer recommendations regarding the site. Some of the money was also reserved for display materials and events such as a guided walk, organized to raise awareness about the project and to attract new supporters and volunteers. We hope that the contribution of the Fund has given the project an initial boost and we look forward to the architect’s report and to hear the Committee’s decisions regarding the future.
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‘Llyˆn’s Heritage’ Our photography competition is back again in 2015. The theme this year is ‘Llyˆn’s Heritage’. You’re invited to send us up to two pictures by post or via e-mail.
Here are the contact details:
Prizes
2015 Photography Competition Llŷn AONB Gwynedd Council Ffordd y Cob Pwllheli LL53 5AA.
1st – A trip for two to Ynys Enlli 2nd – Sunday Lunch for two 3rd – Tonnau Gift Voucher worth £20
Give it a go – Good Luck!
e-mail: ahne-llyn-aonb@gwynedd.gov.uk .. .. .. .. .. ..
SE F R I D AY • • E T A D CLOSING
2 0 1 5 .. .. .. .. , H T 5 2 R PTEMbE
2011 Winner Jackie Milnes – Tudwal Islands
2013 Winner – Rory Trappe – Porthor Rules: • The winners will be chosen by an independent panel appointed by the AONB Unit • The maximum allowance is two pictures per individual • Individuals are not permitted to apply more than once • The competition is not open to anybody linked with organizing the competition • The competition is not open to professional photographers • The AONB Unit will have the right to use the pictures in future as long as credit is given to the owner, unless otherwise stated by the owner • By competing, the contestants commit to the rules of the competition Answers 1)Rhydyclafdy 2)Efailnewydd 3)Y Rhiw 4)Sarn Mellteyrn 5)Llanengan 6)Tudweiliog
2015 photography competition
2015 Photography Competition
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What’s going on in 2015? ˆ N THROUGHOUT THE YEAR THERE’S SOMETHING TO SUIT EVERYONE GOING ON IN LLY
• Llyˆn Costal Festival is returning over the summer months, which is a series of activities organised by us and our partners. There will be plenty of interesting activities to suit people of all ages. Here is a taste of the activities this year:
Plas Heli 8 -10/5/2015 – All Wales Boat Show 23-24/5/2015 – Land and Sea Food Festival 7/6/2015 – Llyˆn Coastal Sportive www.plasheli.org
National Trust 24/5/15 – ’50 things’ Llanbedrog, 12 p.m – 4 p.m. 14/6/15 – Taste of the Sea Aberdaron, 11 a.m – 4 p.m. 27/6/15 – Taste of the Sea Porthdinllaen, 12 p.m – 6 p.m. 30/7/15 – Fun on the Beach Porthor, 11 a.m – 4 p.m. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/llyn-peninsula
AONB Guided Walks – Don’t forget to book your place by calling 01758 704 176 – www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org 1. 2. 3.
13/9/2015 – Historical and Archaeological walk guided by Rhys Mwyn in Clynnog Fawr. A chance to visit St Beuno’s Church, Bachwen Burial Chamber and Beuno’s Well – 1 p.m. 20/9/15 – Walk guided by Dilwyn Morgan in Garnfadryn, where he was born and raised – meet by the chapel at 1 p.m. 27/9/15 – Walk guided by John Dilwyn Williams along a new part of the Coastal Path in Cilan – 1 p.m.
Nefyn and Tudweiliog Agricultural Shows 4/5/2015 Nefyn Show •
8/8/2015 Tudweiliog Show
The main activities in the area will be noted in the activities calendar on Llyˆn AONB website, so remember to keep an eye for the latest information about the hustle and bustle in Llyˆn over the year. www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org
Nefyn Show
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protecting and managing the AONB
PRO TE CT I N G AN D M AN AG I N G T H E AO N B A Review into Wales’s Designated Landscapes In 2014 an independent panel was commissioned by Carl Sargeant AM, Minister over Natural Recourses to lead a review of Wales’s designated landscapes. The report’s aim is to ensure that the designations meet the requirements regarding their protection and opportunities existing at the moment. The Review Panel is chaired by Professor Terry Mardsen from Cardiff University with John Lloyd Jones and Dr Ruth Williams as members. In a statement, the Minister stated: “The statutory purposes of our National Parks and Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty were originally set out in legislation that is now almost seventy years old. In the intervening decades, economic, environmental and social developments mean that the issues they face have evolved.” The Review was separated into two sections with the first looking at the purpose of the special landscapes and the benefits/disadvantages of categorizing the areas under one title. Work started at the end of 2014 by gathering evidence and a public consultation. The second section, happening in 2015 will consider; • governing arrangements and the managing of designated landscapes • how managing bodies promote collaborations and avoid duplications • the method of coping with liability and local decisions in the best way The second section will also consider the Planning Act (Wales) regarding the planning arrangements in National Parks. More information and developments can be found on the Welsh Government website www.wales.gov.uk
Management Plan Preparing the Management Plan is one of Gwynedd Council’s responsibilities in relation to the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. It is stated in the Countryside and Right of Way Act that the Plan should be reviewed every five years. The first Management Plan for Llyˆn AONB was created in 2004 and was reviewed in 2009. In 2014, work started on reviewing the plan once more. This time there are new guidelines approved by Natural Resources Wales showing how to emphasise on ecosystem/natural services. The AONB Unit will lead the review of the Plan supported by the Joint Advisory Committee and other stakeholders. For the latest information regarding reviewing the Plan head to the AONB’s website – www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org.
llwybr gwyn plas llithfaen