How to become a better surfer. A handy how to guide
PERFECT A BACKSIDE CUTBACK 1. The backside cutback is one of the most difficult things to do right. Going into the turn, try to focus on positioning on the board. Specifically, try to stay centered over the board going in, but once you begin the cutback shift the weight a more toward the tail. The trick is to treat it like a frontside bottom turn. 2. By keeping your board on a rail and staying spring-loaded. You’ll have the ability to gain speed throughout the maneuver. Once you get the bottom of the wave, shift your weight completely on to the tail. That’s when you transition out the crouch position and start making your way up the face to hit the oncoming section. 3. The hardest part is keeping your speed, but positioning and timing are key. Essentially you’re linking a cutback with a top-turn rebound after it. A lot of guys don’t hit the whitewater at places like J-Bay because if you dig a rail or make the slightest mistake you could ruin the whole wave. But a proper figure eight cutback done right can look really cool and is worth the risk.
PRETEND LIKE YOU MADE
THE BARREL
YOU JUST BLEW
This maneuver relies on situational awareness. Where are your friends? If they’re in the judges’ tower, you’re screwed. If they’re behind the lens, you’re screwed. If they’re out the back or down the beach, you may have a chance. Now, barrel-makers are not going to pop up in the impact zone, they’re going to emerge down the line with confidence. If you blow the take-off, it’s critical that you let the whitewater push you all the way through the inside. As you begin paddling back out, puff your chest a little and look around a if you’re scanning the lineup for the people who witnessed your incredible tube, maybe even “hoot” yourself. On the outside, your friends may ask,”How was that one?” Simply wink.
Celebrate the best wave of your life, A Pro Surfer
Outward gesture that can be easily trademarked. Do it repeatedly. Adriano has the double-fist triple-claim. Parko has the ten-finger claim.
A Soul Surfer
Pull off, paddle back out, and say nothing. Later discuss the wave in metaphysical terms.
An Exhibitionist
Make lewd gestures that should offend anyone in the water. Or just mimic your favorite pro surfer’s claim.
Emotionally Insecure
For the moment, let go of your emotions-laugh,hoot, scream, and make hand gestures. Then spend the rest of your day wishing you hadn’t.
x
if
STRAP A BOARD TO YOUR ROOF
1. Place boards on roof, fins facing forward. 2. Open doors, thread straps through can of car making sure the front strap is behind the forward-most fin. 3. If your strap has no buckle, use a trusted know to tie the boards.
4. Twist tie-down two to three times to avoid the “hum� sound. 5. Close doors. Depart.
PLAN YOUR NEXT ESCAPE Yes What’s your budget? $
$$
Barrels or Pointbreaks?
$$$
Barrels Pointbreaks
Do you get seasick? Yes San Diego to Baja roadtrip
Bali and/or G-Land roadtrip
No Mentawaiis boat trip
Do you rip? Kinda
Who will you be traveling with? Solo or with a buddy or two
With a significant other or family
3/2 or Boardshorts
Wetsuit North Island, New Zealand in an RV
Boardies Sayulita, Mexico
Pesos or Euros?
Pesos Euros Biarritz, France
MUTE 1. You need to go a little more vertically up to the lip
COMPLETE
than you would for an air reverse. For an air reverse you’re kind of high-lining it and then you kick it towards the shore. For a Mute, you’re bottom-turning up to the lip.
2. You’ll find that hitting the lip a bit earlier than you would any other grab is because you need to get your tail real high. With the way you kick the tail out, if you hit the lip late, like you normally would for an air reverse, the tail gets caught and you can’t get the extensions out of it.
GRAB
A
3. All the rotation is from the waist down, unlike an air reverse, where your whole body has to rotate. Once you’re in the air, you kick your tail up and somewhere between leaving the lip and getting your tail all the way up is when you’re reaching for the rail and catching the grab.
4. At the peak of the rotation your body is facing forward as if you’re doing a straight air, but your tail is out front as if you’re doing an air reverse. So at the peak of your board’s rotation you’re trying to bring it all back in under your body so you land straight with your board under you.
LIKE
A
PRO
GET BARRE
FLAT
ELED ON A
DAY