Publication-Cuisine

MILE CUISINE

MAY 2012

ONE MOORGATE PLACE SAMPLED BY CHARLES CHAMPION ONE MORGATE PLACE LONDON EC2R 6EA 020 7920 8613

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f there is such thing as an instant response, the one you get from lunching at One Moorgate Place is that of surprise. Surprise that the cooking is so accomplished. Surprise that the restaurant exists at all, hidden away in the basement off the beaten track. Surprise that the service is so polished. And surprise that the prices are very reasonable”.Presentation on the plate is elaborate and dishes have multiple elements with supreame precision.

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F A BEAUTIFUL AND HISTORIC PLACE IN THE HEART OF Charles THE Campion CITY

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or quick fine dining without breaking the bank, check out Moorgate’s accountancy quarter for a real lunchtime treat.The dining room is light and spacious with a host of contemporary trappings and a neutral colour scheme highlighted with flashes of lime green and raspberry red furnishings.

The staff are exceptional; swift and professional, yet personable and friendly at the same time.The clever chefs at One Moorgate Place have come up with a ‘fast food, reinvented’ menu where you can have two excellent courses served to you in under 30 minutes,or it’s free 2 courses for £13.

GAUCHO-BROADGATE SAMPLED BY SAL STOWERS

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SLEEK, SOPHISTICATED AND BEST OF ALL GREAT TASTING SAL STOWERS

GAUCHO BROADGATE 13-15 BROADGATE ST EC2W 5EA 020 7930 8418

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aucho Broadgate is a sleek and sophisticated branch of the chain, following the same tried and tested formula of dark wood, cow-hide furnishings and dim lighting.

However, the ultra-modern bar entrance and “beam-me-up-Scotty” lift to the restaurant below make this place seem even more exciting.We visited last night, and it was packed to the rafters - to be expected in the City on a Thursday evening. The bar upstairs was very busy, but drinks were delivered quickly and there was one spare section of couch to perch on while we necked our glasses of champagne.

Once at our table downstairs, we ordered drinks and studied the menus.

We had a considerable wait after the drinks arrived, and had to ask for the bread to be brought to our table as we were so hungry those cheese puff buns are divine!We were finally shown the meat board, and I paid more attention

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than usual since they have had a major revamp of their steak cuts. I was disappointed to find my old favourite bife de lomo fillet (225g of juicy thick goodness) has been discontinued, seemingly replaced by 220g of two thin medallions for the same price. I ordered these and was not disappointed with the flavour or cooking, but I did hanker for that big thick piece of steak I used to love.The sides are overpriced in my opinion, but that never stops me ordering them! £5.25 for five stems of broccoli(and just regular tenderstem broccoli at that, not the purple sprouting variety described on the menu. We also ordered the pommes puree and to be

honest were a little diappointed with the average mash that turned up. Creamy silky pommes puree this was not.

To to sum up fabulous, faultless steaks and sauces,OK but over priced sides,charming if a little overstretched service,but Fantastic.

MILE FASHION

LONDON

TIMELESS & ELEGANTLY STYLISH WWW.HOBBS.CO.UK

RHODES TWENTY FOUR 24TH FLOOR TOWER 42 OLD BOND STREET 020 7877 7703

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he view from the 24th floor is awe-inspiring day or night, though we have a slight preference for the twinkling evening cityscape. Also, at dinner the usual business clientele is leavened by dating couples and family groups. Bargain hunters should check for the regular lunch deals; the special summer set lunch on our visit was a steal for this quality. Decor is pale and low-key, focusing attention on the floor-to-ceiling windows. Well-drilled staff ensure everything runs smoothly, while the kitchen produces hit after hit.

The real showstopper was a plate of pork: pork belly on a chunky apple ring, roast loin on carrots, and braised cheek on mash - a sublime dish. Beside this, pan-fried haddock with baby leeks and smoked bacon and cockle chowder was almost unassuming.

Starters were excellent too. An earthy, deep green watercress soup came with little ticklemore goat’s cheese fritters.

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SAMPLED BY MARTA OK

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RHODES TWENTY FOUR

EVERYONE SHOULD GO HERE AT LEAST ONCE OR TWICE IN THEIR LIFE. MARTA OK

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igh standards were maintained by the signature dessert plate, which held Gary Rhodes’ version of a jaffa cake, an almost liquid bread and butter pudding, and an addictive warm date pudding with toffee sauce. Of the extras, a white tomato soup amuse-bouche scored top marks, and the bread rolls were also good. Petits fours were generous but misguided: mini muffins are just too heavy after a three-course meal. Have an aperitif (there’s a short cocktail list) first, or a coffee in the bar later, to make the most of those amazing views. Its honestly official, in my opinion once you are over the age of 30 and have enough money to enjoy yourself, you need to come to this restaurant once or twice in your life.

To sum up I thoroughly enjoyed the atmosphere, truly loved the food, and was impressed with the service. The bill however, it was sizeable.

CHAMBERLAIN’S SAMPLED BY CHARLES CHAMPION

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THE BEST SEA BASS I HAVE EVER EATEN. FULL STOP. NO QUESTIONS.

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CHARLES CHAMPION

CHAMBERLAIN’S 23-25 LEADENHALL MARKET CITY OF LONDON EC3V 1LR 020 7648 8690

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his was fantastic from start to finish! A last minute booking (less than a week in advance) for a party of 35 guests from all over the world. We had to cater for a range of cultural and religious dietary requirements and Chamberlains were more than happy to accommodate. They gave us the whole of the first floor, let me choose my options from a set menu that could be chosen on the night and also arranged for a drinks reception on arrival. Fantastic food, atmosphere and staff. I will defiantly come again.

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have never been to Chamberlains before, but a good friend of mine told me that it is a very good place for business. And despite been very busy during the lunch time ,The management accommodate me to have a quiet table in the corner to do so. As well as the staff not being to intrusive but being very attentive.We did have the scallops and the halibut. I will definitely come back.

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CHINESE CRICKET CLUB

TAKES CHINESE FINE DINING TO NEW LEVELS OF SOPHISTICATION SAL STOWERS

SAMPLED BY SAL STOWERS 19 NEW BRIDGE STREET THE CITY EC4V 6D3 0207 438 8051

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ituated within luxurious hotel The City Crowne Plaza in London’s Blackfriars is one of the city’s finest Chinese restaurants the Chinese Cricket Club. Named in honour of the newly formed Chinese National Cricket Team, this super stylish restaurant takes Chinese dining to a completely new level. The dining room is a sophisticated scene with golds, reds and lime greens and chic modern furnishings creating a contemporary look. Executive Chef Brendan Speed demonstrates his life long passion for Asian cuisine with a concise and exceptional Chinese menu where he shows he is unafraid to experiment a little with flavours and textures. Signature dishes include crispy orange beef; fried perch with garlic chives and tea smoked duck salad. Classics like twice e cooked pork or corn fed chicken and corn soup also feature. The dim sum selection is delicious, try the black cod gow gee,

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he club lobster dumpling or the honey glazed pork puff. The wine list has been carefully thought out and really does match the menu.

The Chinese Cricket Club has reset the standards for Chinese dining in the City with its modern and sophisticated dining room and menu alike. By far the best Dim Sum I have tasted since visit to Beijing.

Superb restaurant and could not fault food and wines were delicious (we sampled a few!). Allow Tony and his superbly attentive staff to choose for you, you will not be dissappointed. So nice to see staff that knew the menu inside out and a soothing and light decor to wrap up a near perfect lunchtime. In all one of the best meals I have had in London this year. If you dont visit soon, the secret will out and reservations a must.

MILE ARCHITECTURE 2000 YEARS OF PROGRESSION AT THE HEART OF LONDON

MILE FASHION

LONDON

TIMELESS & ELEGANTLY STYLISH WWW.HOBBS.CO.UK

MILE ARCHITECTURE

WARWICK COURT CITY OF LONDON EC4M 7DX 0207 439 4760

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he service was prompt and generally pretty professional slick rather than charming. I have become a bit impatient with inattentive and slow waiting staff and so I often now get my retaliation in first by being a bit pushy and demanding it seems to work. They probably think I’m an annoying git, but at least I’m a well-served annoying git.One pretty major glitch on the service front: an eager young waiter brought our 6 flutes of champagne to the table on a tray then spilt them all over my wife’s back that’s a whole bottle of champagne all over her dress, with broken glass all around.

Not great. Fortunately for them my wife is a very sweet natured woman and she was more concerned for the crest-fallen waiter than herself. Nevertheless they swept into action pretty efficiently to deal with it all. Fresh champagne was brought etc. Lots of good stuff on the al la carte mind but that was startlingly

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PATERNOSTER CHOP HOUSE

PROMPT AND PROFESSIONAL THE WHOLE WAY THROIUGH MARTA OK

expensive. From the fixed price I had an excellent porky brawn - a jellied delight. My faggots weren’t faggots they were just slices of pigs liver in a cloying sweet black sauce. Strange bit of mis-description.Those who ordered the haddock and pollack were very plesed really good portion sizes of fish.Dessert: my sticky toffee pudding was dry with a stingey dribble of toffee sauce - a shame as the flavours were good. The almond and raspberry tart (posh Bakewell) was good.Wine: a very good list in fact, with enough in the £25-ish bracket to please.

We had a very good white Rhone, then a few glasses of a cherrylicious trebbiano.

Champagne is stupidly pricey (that’s the city for you). £49 for house champagne, a decent but by no means stellar Piper Heidseck.Overall: we had an excellent evening. I wouldn’t rush back however unless someone else was paying - you can eat well-sourced honest English grub much more cheaply elsewhere.

THE DON SAMPLED BY CHARLES CHAMPION THE COURTYARD 20 SWITHINS LANE EC4N 8AD 0207 6262606

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ucked away in a tiny courtyard at the heart of the City of London, in the historic Sanderman Port Cellars, The Don is an elegant retreat with superb modern art throughout. Famous for its service and style, as well as its stunning wine list, The Don has won a Wine Spectator Award every year since 2000. Listed in the Hardens, Square Meal and Good Food Guides, The Don is recommended for its modern, quality Gallic cuisine accompanied

by London’s largest selection of ports and sherries. Bright and spacious, the restaurant’s interior is highlighted by its stunning double height wine tower and seven large windows that open up on to the small courtyard. For a truly historic atmosphere, you can also wine and dine in the bistro, previously a wine cellar where Port and sherry were bottled for over 200 years. This superb destination leaves you want more, i will be back to experiance excerlance again.

AN ELEGANT RETREAT WITH SUPERB FOOD AND WINE CHARLES CHAMPION

This is one of 6 monthly publications highlighting the attractions within one of the most culturally rich areas in London, the square mile. This focuses on the cuisine, giving you reviews by our in house food critiques demonstrating that the square mile has a diverse and surprisingly affordable array of restaurants and cafes at your disposal.