Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Janez Bogataj

Krušni zakladi Slovenije •

Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Založba Kmečki glas

Krušni zakladi Slovenije • Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Janez Bogataj

Krušni zakladi Slovenije •

Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Krušni zakladi Slovenije •

Bread Treasures of Slovenia 2. knjiga iz zbirke 101 zaklad 2nd book from The 101 Treasure Collection prof. dr. Janez Bogataj Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia Art direction in oblikovanje/ Art direction and design Edi Berk/KROG Fotografija/Photography Janez Pukšič Lektura/Proof reading Vid Sagadin Prevod/Translation Primož Žvokelj Izdal/Published by ČZD Kmečki glas, Ljubljana Za založbo/For publisher Peter Zadel Vodja projekta/Project manager Tanja Žgajnar Novak Grafična priprava/Graphic pre-press KROG in Grafika Paradoks, Ljubljana Tisk/Print Tiskarna Euroadria, Ljubljana Realizacija/Production KROG, Ljubljana 2003 Knjiga je izšla v sodelovanju s podjetjem Pekarna Grosuplje, d. d.

This book was published in cooperation with the company Pekarna Grosuplje, d. d.

CIP - Kataložni zapis o publikaciji Narodna in univerzitetna knjižnica, Ljubljana 39(497.4):664.66 BOGATAJ, Janez, 1947Krušni zakladi Slovenije = Bread treasures of Slovenia / Janez Bogataj ; [fotografije Janez Pukšič; prevod Primož Žvokelj]. Ljubljana : Kmečki glas, 2003. - (101 zaklad = 101 treasure collection; knj. 2) ISBN 961-203-260-2 124403456

Vsebina • Contents Če človek pol sveta obteče, najboljši kruh doma se peče!

Ne naredi kruha moka, ampak roka!

Pšenico do koruze, koruzo do božiča …

Stare sorte in na novo odkrite zmesi Zakaj policaj postane kifeljc?

V plenirjih do Trsta Pehta ga je zrezala Kruh ubogih za kruh Dediščina kot posebna vrednota sodobnosti Posladek ob peki rženega kruha Dediščina hitre prehrane Med bizeljskimi vinogradi Kruh kot potica Poseben kruh za posebne praznike Za poroko in druge slovesnosti Ko na porokah še ni bilo tort Darilo za haloško nevesto Prispodoba otroka Podoba in prispodoba obilja Podoba ljubezni in zakona Ptičje in druge svatbe Prazniki in ocvirki Za boljše dneve boljši kruh Čarodejna moč velikonočnega kruha Kakor pri delu, tako pri jelu!

Bog se usmili duš v vicah!

Obdarovanje otrok in revežev Od Martina do adventa Poslastica pridnim, opomin porednim Božič med Slovenci v Porabju Mojstrovina na božični mizi Kar je pridelal človek in ustvarila narava Od božiča do treh kraljev Magični udarec s šibo Po delu in za praznike Kruh kot torta in potica hkrati Kruh, prikazan v knjigi, so izdelali

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11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55 57 59 61 63 65 67 69 71 73 75 77 79 80

Man may travel around the world, the best of bread is still made at home!

It is not flour but a hand that makes the bread!

Wheat till maize, maize till Christmas …

Old sorts and newly discovered mixtures How a policeman becomes a croissant With “plenir” baskets to Trieste Pehta cut it Bread of the poor Heritage as a special value of contemporaneity A sweet from making rye bread The heritage of fast food Among the Bizeljsko vineyards Potica-like bread Special bread for special holidays For weddings and other festivities Times without wedding cakes A gift for the Haloze bride Allegory of a child An image and allegory of plenty An image of love and marriage Birds’ and other weddings Holidays and cracklings Better bread for finer days The magic power of Easter bread At work and at the table alike!

Lord have mercy on the souls in purgatory!

Presenting gifts to children and the poor From St. Martin to advent A treat for the diligent, a reminder for the mischievous Christmas among Slovenes in the Rába region Masterpiece on the Christmas table Produced by man and created by nature From Christmas to the Three Kings Magical stroke with a rod After work and for holidays Bread both as cake and potica Breads, shown in this book were made by

Če človek pol sveta obteče, najboljši kruh doma se peče!*

Man may travel around the Star slovenski pregovor se v teh sodobnih, vsestransko globalizacijskih časih morda sliši nekoliko nenavadno, nekateri bi rekli celo, da zastarelo. Vendar njegovo sporočilo ni usmerjeno k zapečkarskemu pogledu in k nacionalnemu sindromu.

Usmerjen je k vzgoji za zavedanje lastnih vrednot in bogastev. V časih najrazličnejših avtomatizmov, atomov in betonov se tudi sicer vedno bolj oziramo k tistim vrednotam, ki jih je zgodovina že večkrat potrdila. Odkrivamo jih in spoznavamo, saj v naše življenje prinašajo nove kakovosti in spoznanja, dajejo razsežnosti ter globino pogosto površinskim ritualom, ki spremljajo naše praznične trenutke in obdobja … Ena takih vrednot je tudi kruh, vsakdanji in praznični. Kruh, ki na Slovenskem ne pomeni le hrane, ampak tudi bogato dediščino in simbol. Čeprav kruha ponekod sploh niso poznali, drugod pa so ga celo stradali, je beseda kruh postala pojem za hrano nasploh. Količina in vrsta kruha sta bili merili življenjske ravni, tudi sredstvi za označevanje družbene pripadnosti. S kruhom je slovenski človek označeval posameznike (Ta je dober kot kruh), s kosom kruha, kozarcem vina ali peharjem suhega sadja je izražal posebno gostoljubje gostu. Priprava in peka kruha sta pomenili v pre-teklosti temelj načrtovanja prehrambenega ritma ter predvsem družinske ekonomije tako na podeželju kot tudi * Slovenski pregovor / Slovene proverb

This old Slovene proverb may sound a little unusual in modern times strongly shaped by globalisation, some may even say it is old-fashioned. But its message is not focused on a stay-at-home aspect and national syndrome. It is aimed at raising awareness for one’s own values and riches.

In times of all sorts of automatism, atoms and types of concrete we tend to look at those values, which were several times proven by history. They are being revealed and rediscovered, since they bring new quality and comprehension to our lives, they provide dimensions and depth to many superficial rituals accompanying our festive moments and periods… One of such values is also bread, the everyday and festive one. Bread, which in Slovenia does not mean only food, but a rich heritage and symbol.

Although in some places bread was not known at all, while elsewhere people were starving, the word bread became a synonym for food in general. The quantity and type of bread were a criteria of the living standard, even a mean for denoting one’s social status. Slovene people used bread to characterise individuals (He is as good as bread), by a slice of bread, a cup of wine or a basket of dried fruit they expressed special hospitality to guests. In the past, the making and baking of bread represented a basis for planning nutrition cycles and in particular a family economy

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v mestih, kjer se je v zvezi s pripravo kruha že v srednjem veku izoblikoval poseben poklic oz. obrtniška dejavnost pekovstva. Podeželje v zaledju mest (npr. Trst, Piran, Izola, Koper) je imelo v peki in prodaji kruha pomemben dodaten vir dohodka. Danes se s to dopolnilno dejavnostjo, seveda v omejenem obsegu, ukvarjajo nekatere (turistične) kmetije.

V količinah kruha se zrcalijo dobre in slabe letine, uvajanje in priljubljenost določenih krušnih žit pa tudi njihovo pomanjkanje. Priprava kruha je bila najbolj ustaljen delovni proces in hkrati najbolj stalno ponavljajoče se praznično dogajanje. Skrb za stalno zagotovljeno količino krušnih hlebcev ali štruc je bila povezana s številnimi načini premagovanja posledic slabih žitnih letin, ko so uporabljali razne dodatke k moki: semena, fižol, od konca 18. stoletja še krompir, v najhujših obdobjih lakote drevesno lubje ali nekatere vrste gozdnega jagodičja.

Pisni viri omenjajo kruh na Slovenskem v 13. stoletju. Med starejše sodijo predvsem nekvašene vrste kruha, ki jih poznamo pod različnimi narečnimi poimenovanji kot “presnec”, “mlinci”, “tepke”, “gibice”, “povalnik” idr. Seveda je danes od vseh vrst nekdanjega nekvašenega kruha ostalo bore malo. Najbolj razširjeni so mlinci (danes zgolj kot priloga k jedem) in nekatere oblike okrašenega medenega kruha. Nekvašeni kruh so pripravljali še nekaj let po koncu 2. svetovne vojne v nekaterih kmetijsko pasivnih območjih (npr. v Trenti), sicer pa je na Slovenskem že pred tem obdobjem prevladala priprava in peka kvašenih vrst kruha. Uporaba kupljenega pivskega kvasa za vzhajanje testa sega v čas po 1. svetovni vojni, pred tem je bi-

not only in the country but also in towns, where in the middle ages a special profession or artisan activity of bread-baking developed in connection with the making of bread. For areas closer to towns (e.g.

Trieste, Piran, Izola, Koper) making and selling bread generated an important extra income. Today, this complementary activity is performed on a much smaller scale by some (tourist) farms.

The quantities of bread reflect good and bad harvests, the introduction and popularity of certain types of grain but also lack of them. Making bread was the most traditional task and at the same time the most consistently repeated festive ritual.

Taking care for permanently providing an adequate number of loaves of bread was connected to numerous ways of overcoming the effects of poor grain harvests, when different supplements to flour were used: seeds, beans, and since the 18th century also potatoes, while in the worst periods of famine bark or some types of wood berries were added.

Bread in Slovenia was first mentioned in written sources in the 13th century. Among the older types are particularly un-leavened breads, which are known under various dialect expressions like “presnec”, “mlinci”, “tepke”, “gibice”, “povalnik” and others. From all the ancient types of un-leavened bread not much has remained. The most widespread are “mlinci” (flat cake - today just a side dish) and some kinds of decorated honey bread. Unleavened bread was even made for a number of years after World War II in some agriculturally passive areas (e.g. Trenta), while even earlier the making and baking of leavened types of bread prevailed elsewhere in Slovenia. The use of purchased beer yeast

la splošna priprava droži, torej domačih vrst kvasa, ki so jih pod različnimi imeni (npr. “kravajc”, “drože”, “trdi kvas”) pripravljali iz prosene moke, zamešane v vinski mošt, tudi s hmeljem, ali iz koruzne moke, zamešane v vino, ki so ga do zavretja segreli v peči. Take droži v obliki manjših hlebčkov so posušili in jih uporabljali čez celo leto pri pripravi kruha. Njihova posebna lastnost je bila tudi v tem, da so zlasti v poletnem času varovale kruh pred zadahom. Sicer pa so droži delali tudi iz testa vsakokratne priprave kruha.

Od vseh vrst kruha je bil le redkokdaj na mizi beli kruh iz pšenične moke. Predstavljal je eno osrednjih jedi za slavnostne priložnosti. Posebna je bila njegova že kar magično simbolna vloga v šegah in navadah življenjskega cikla (ob rojstvu, birmi, poroki) in v posameznih šegah prazničnega leta (npr. božične in velikonočne vrste kruha, razne vrste darilnih druhov in hlebčkov na valentinovo, vse svete, ob trikraljevskem koledovanju, pustnem času itn.). V marsikaterih, še zlasti revnejših okoljih, je beli kruh na praznične dni predstavljal najboljšo jed, torej neke vrste “sladico” oziroma praznično pogačo, ki je bila pogosto nadomestilo za potico. Bel kruh je bil na Slovenskem vedno merilo in odsev višje življenjske ravni ter blaginje. Torej bi v zvezi z belim kruhom lahko govorili kar o nekakšnem narodnem stereotipu, celo kompleksu. S tem je povezano tudi naziranje našega kmeta v preteklosti, ki je menil, da je “za domačega človeka pšenica predobra”. V stoletjih fevdalizma je ta misel celo razumljiva, kot tolažba v sili, ko je moral podložni kmet večino pridelka pšenice oddati v obliki obveznih dajatev

for raising dough extends back to times after World War I., because before that the making of droži was generally practised.

These home made types of yeast which were produced under different names (e.g. “kravajc”, “drože”, “solid yeast”) were made from millet flour mixed with wine must, even with hop or from maize flour, mixed with wine, which was heated in the oven almost to the boiling point. Such droži in the shape of small loaves were dried and used throughout the year for making bread.

Their special feature was also that particularly in summer they protected bread against unpleasant smells. Otherwise leaven was also made from dough when making bread.

Among all the types of bread white bread from wheat flour was rarely served. It represented one of the most important dishes for festive occasions. Special was also its almost magically symbolic role in customs and habits of the lifecycle (birth, confirmation, marriage) and individual customs of the festive year (e.g. Christmas or Easter types of bread, various types of gift breads and loaves for Valentine’s Day, All Saints’ Day, Three Kings’ Day, carol– singing, Shrovetide etc.). In some environments, particularly poorer ones white bread on holidays represented the finest dish, meaning a sort of “desert” or festive cake, which was usually a visual substitute for the typical potica. In Slovenia white bread was always a criteria and symbol of a higher standard of living and prosperity.

Therefore, in connection with white bread we can speak of a kind of national stereotype, even a complex. This is also linked to the views of Slovene farmers in the past who believed that “wheat is too good for the locals”. During centuries of feudalism this

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zemljiškemu gospodu. K temu moramo prišteti še slabe letine, razne ujme in razmeroma nizko raven kmetovanja, ki se je na področju žitne pridelave začela bistveno razvijati in spreminjati šele od sredine 18. in v 19. stoletju.

Leta 1989 so začeli s prirejanjem odmevnih razstav “Dobrote slovenskih kmetij” na Ptuju, ki so tradicionalne in predstavljajo spodbudo ne le za ohranjanje, ampak predvsem tudi za razvoj bogate slovenske krušne dediščine. Pomembno strokovno, svetovalno in usmerjevalno delo na področju vloge in pomena kruha na podeželju (in tudi v mestih) izvaja Kmetijska svetovalna služba pri Kmetijsko gozdarski zbornici Slovenije.

Slovenski pregovor pravi: Ne naredi kruha moka, ampak roka! Sporočilo tega pregovora uresničujejo številne posameznice, članice društev kmečkih žena.

Med njimi tudi tiste, ki so, poleg pekov v Pekarni Grosuplje, spekle kruh za pričujočo knjigo. Krušni zakladi Slovenije, zbrani v knjigi, predstavljajo razmeroma ozek, a hkrati izrazito reprezentančni izbor velikega krušnega bogastva. To pa ni le naključno oživljanje zgodovinskega spomina, ampak vitalno prisotna ustvarjalnost posameznih ustvarjalcev v našem času in prostoru. S svojim kruhom bogatijo nas in vse, ki prihajajo k nam.

view was quite understandable as is represented a consolation in need, when the dependent peasants had to deliver most of their harvest in the form of obligatory duty to landlords. Bad harvests, various forms of damage, caused by weather and the relatively simple way of agriculture, which in the field of growing wheat started to improve considerably as late as mid 18th and during the 19th century, need to be added.

In the year 1989 exhibitions called “Specialities by Slovene farms” started to be organised on Ptuj. They met a great response and became traditional by representing an incentive not only for the preservation but also the development of the rich Slovene bread heritage. An important professional, consulting and guiding role in the importance of bread in the country (and also in towns) is played by the Agricultural consulting service as part of the Agricul-tural and Forestry Chamber of Slovenia. A Slovene proverb says: It is not flour but a hand that makes the bread!

The message of this proverb is turned into practice by numerous individuals who are members of the Rural Women Associations. They are among those, who, apart from bakers of the Pekarna Grosuplje bakery, prepared bread for this book. The bread treasures of Slovenia brought together in this book re-present a relatively narrow, but representative selection of the immense bread trea-sures. This does not only mean an incidental revival of a historic memory, but also a vitally ubiq-

Ne naredi kruha moka,

ampak roka! •

It is not flour but a hand

that makes the bread!

Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Pšenico do koruze, koruzo do božiča …

Bel, ajdov, koruzni, rženi in ovseni kruh

Wheat till maize, maize till Christmas…

White, buckwheat, maize, rye and oat bread

Beli kruh je imel na Slovenskem

In Slovenia white bread always had a distinctively festive meaning. Therefore the use of other types of cereals and maize for making everyday bread was quite common. Rye bread (rženják) was a very popular one, while among simple people oat bread was quite common. In the second half of the 17th century, Valvasor wrote that the so-called ovsenják bread was made from a mixture of oats and buckwheat flour.

Even other cereal mixes or mixtures were commonly found. For buckwheat bread made by peasants from Carniola, Valvasor wrote, from a typically nobleman point of view, that it is “black like earth”. Maize bread belongs to more recent types of bread in Slovenia, since maize or according to Valvasor “Turkish grain” was introduced in the second half of the 16th century. Different dialects show different names for maize and maize bread thus indicating the spread of this culture to Slovene areas and regions.

izrazit praznični pomen. Zato pa je bila za pripravo vsakdanjega kruha v navadi uporaba raznih drugih vrst žit in koruze. Zelo priljubljen je bil rženi kruh (rženják), med nižjimi družbenimi sloji pa predvsem ovseni kruh. Iz mešanice ovsene in ajdove moke so že po Valvasorjevem poročilu iz druge polovice 17. stoletja pekli kruh ovsenják. V navadi so bile tudi druge mešanice žit ali zmesí.

Za ajdov kruh kranjskih kmetov pravi Valvasor z značilne plemiške razdalje, da je “črn kot zemlja”. Koruzni kruh sodi med mlajše vrste kruha na Slovenskem, saj se koruza ali po Valvasorju “turška pšenica” pri nas začne uvajati šele v drugi polovici 16. stoletja. Različna narečna poimenovanja koruze in koruznega kruha kažejo tudi na smeri širjenja te rastline v naše kraje in pokrajine.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Stare sorte in na novo odkrite zmesi Pirin, soržični in graham kruh

Old sorts and newly discovered mixtures Spelt, mixed cereals and wholemeal bread

Pirin kruh je izdelan iz pire ali bera, t. j. preproste, razvojno zelo stare, odporne, a manj rodne pšenice. Podobno kot že skoraj pozabljeno piro danes na novo spoznavamo razne vrste nekdanjih krušnih oz. žitnih mešanic (zmesi). Med njimi je tudi soržica za pripravo soržičnega kruha, ki je izdelan iz zmesi pšenice in rži.

Graham ali grahamov kruh je nekvašeni kruh iz debelo mlete pšenice, ki ga uživajo predvsem diabetiki. Žitne ali krušne mešanice so ljudje uporabljali v obdobjih težkih družbenih razmer in izjemnih dogodkih (lakota, vojna, slabe letine). Zelo razširjeno je bilo mešanje ajdove in ovsene ter pšenične in ržene moke. Mešanice so pripravljali tudi z ječmenovo, proseno in koruzno moko, z dodajanjem mletih lanenih ali konopnenih glavic, smrekovih storžev, lubja, bučnic, sončničnih pečk, celo krompirja in fižola.

Spelt bread is made from spelt or “bera”, a simple, early evolutionary, resistant, but less fertile type of wheat. Just like the almost forgotten spelt, many of the traditional bread or cereal mixtures are being rediscovered. Among them are also mixed cereals for the preparation of the mixed cereals bread, which is made from a mixture of wheat and rye. Wholemeal bread is un-leavened bread from roughly ground wheat, which is particularly suitable for diabetics.

Wheat or bread mixtures were used in times of difficult social situations and exceptional events (famine, war, bad harvest). Quite widespread was the mixing of buckwheat and oats as well as wheat and rye flour. Mixtures were also prepared by adding barley, millet and maize flour, ground flax or hemp seeds, fir cones, bark, cucurbitaceous plants, sunflower seeds, even potatoes or beans.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Zakaj policaj postane kifeljc? Žemlja, rogljič, presta, slanik

How a policeman becomes a croissant Rolls, croissants, pretzel, salted bread stick

Desetletja zgodovinskega razvoja

Decades of historic development

in življenja v okvirih nekdanje avstroogrske monarhije so pustila svoje sledi v pestri paleti pekovskega peciva. Ne le po oblikah, tudi z imeni. Žemlja, kifeljc (slovensko rogljič) in presta so izrazi, prevzeti iz nemških. Seveda imajo tudi starejše latinske izvire. Tako je bila žemlja v latinščini “simila” in je pomenila drobno mleto pšenično moko. Tudi presta, ta značilni pekovski izdelek, katerega način priprave s kuhanjem značilno oblikovanega testa v vodi in nato pečenja pozna le malo ljudi, je v stari latinščini pomenila pecivo, ki z obliko spominja na prekrižane roke. Rogljič ali kifeljc je postal tudi vzdevek za policaja, saj so avstroogrski policaji (mestni stražniki) nosili svoje osebne številke na kovinskih ploščicah pod ovratniki in so po obliki spominjale na rogljiče.

and life within the former AustroHungarian monarchy have left their mark on the versatile range of fancy breads. Not only by their shape but also by their names.

Bun, “kifeljc” (Slovene for croissant) and pretzel are expressions taken from German. Of course they do have an older Latin origin. Even the pretzel, this typical baker’s product, created by first cooking the created dough and then baking it, a process known only by few people, meant in old Latin a fancy bread, which reminds one of folded arms. The croissant or “kifeljc” also became a nickname for policemen, since the Austro-Hungarian police (city constables) carried their personal identification numbers on metal plates beneath their collars and by their shape they reminded people of croissants.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

V plenirjih do Trsta Hleb, biga, pinca, kornet

With “plenir” baskets to Trieste Loaf, biga, sweet egg bread, cornet

Prebivalke Škednja pri Trstu, tudi vasi v Brdih in Istri (Šavrinke) so do obdobja med obema vojnama pekle razne vrste kruha in pekovskega peciva. Te “krušarice” so razvile obsežno prodajo v Trstu, drugih obalnih mestih in sedanjem hrvaškem delu Istre. Samo v tem delu so dnevno prodale več kot tisoč kilogramov kruha, ob praznikih pa se je ta količina še povečala. Krušarice so v eni noči opravile po dve do tri peke, ob koncu tedna in pred prazniki pa tudi do pet. Ohlajen kruh so v zgodnjih jutranjih urah naložile v jerbase (“plenirje”) in ga raznosile po trgih in k stalnim odjemalcem.

Mnoge krušarice so kruh tovorile tudi na oslih. Tako so vse do prvih let 20. stoletja iz posameznih vasi potekale karavane krušaric proti Trstu in drugim mestom.

Poleg kruha so na mestnih tržnicah prodajale tudi jajca in perutnino. S prodajo kruha so ustvarjale pomemben, predvsem pa stalen vir dohodkov.

Between the two World Wars women from Škedenj (Servola) near Trieste and also from villages in the region of Brda and Istra (“Šavrinke”) baked different types of bread and fancy breads.

These bread women or “krušarice” had developed an extensive market in Trieste, other coastal towns and in today’s Croatian part of Istra. Only in this part they daily sold more than a thousand kilograms of bread, while during holiday season this quantity increased even further.

The krušarice baked two or three times, while on weekends and on days before holidays sometimes even five times a night. In the early hours of the day the cooled bread was put into special baskets (“plenir”) and taken to marketplaces to their regular customers. Many bread women carried their bread on donkeys. Until the early 20th century true bread women caravans set out from individual villages to Trieste and other towns. Apart from bread, they also sold eggs and poultry.

By selling bread they created an important, but most of all regular source of income.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Pehta ga je zrezala Rženi “mížik”

Pehta cut it “Mížik” rye bread

Na avstrijskem Koroškem pečejo Slovenci “domač kmečki kruh” iz ržene moke. V božičnem času mu pravijo “mížik”. Za božični večer spečejo dva hlebca, enega iz ržene in drugega iz bele moke. Prekrita s prtičema ju položijo na božično mizo, zraven postavijo še kravji zvonec in razne vrste žitnega zrnja v posodicah, razpelo in blagoslovljeno vodo. Tako dekorirani praznični pogrinjek ostane na mizi do svetih treh kraljev. Na ta dan hlebca razrežejo (pravijo, da ju je “Pehta zrezala”) in vsak družinski član zaužije ta kruh, da “se bo močnega počutil”. Del kruha dobi tudi živina v hlevu. Prvotno so pekli večje število takih mižnikov, vendar so bili hlebci nekoliko manjši od današnjih, ki merijo v premeru do 40 centimetrov. Iz testa, ki ostane pri mesenju rženega kruha, še danes spečejo manjšo štruco ali hlebček “kržéj”. Take hlebčke so podarjali otrokom, ki so na mihelovo (29. 9.) zaželeli vse dobro dušam rajnih.

In Austrian Carinthia the “Slovene home-made rustic bread” is made from rye flour. At Christmas time they call it “mížik”. On Christmas Eve two loaves are usually made, one from rye, the other from white flour. Covered with napkins they are put on the Christmas table, while next to it they put a cowbell and various kinds of cereal seeds in cups, a crucifix and holy water.

This decorated festive cover stays on the table until the Three Kings’ Day. On this particular day the bread is cut (they say “Pehta cut it”) and each family member takes a piece of this bread to “feel stronger”. A part of the bread is given to cattle in the stable. Originally a larger number of such mižik was prepared, however these loaves were smaller from the ones known today, which feature in average a diameter of 40 cm. From the dough remaining from the preparation process of rye bread a smaller loaf or bun called “kržéj” was made. Such loaves were given to children, which on St. Michael’s Day (September 29th) wished well to the souls of the deceased.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Kruh ubogih za kruh Krompirjev kruh

Bread of the poor Potato bread

Ko so Španci v 16. stoletju pripe-

When in the 16th century the

ljali krompir v Evropo, je preteklo kar nekaj časa, da so ljudje spoznali in sprejeli njegov večstranski pomen in uporabnost v prehrani.

Uvajanje krompirja so v 19. stoletju podkrepili z njegovim pomenom za prehrano revnega ljudstva, tudi v obdobjih slabih letin in lakote. Krompir je zato že Ludvik XVI. konec 18. stoletja označil s slikovitim in povednim imenom “kruh ubogih”. Krompir so uporabljali tudi v naših krajih najprej za pitanje prašičev in za kuhanje žganja. Kar desetletja so bila potrebna, do so ljudje spoznali vsestransko uporabnost krompirja v prehrani. Med raznimi načini uporabe je bila priprava krompirjevega testa za peko kruha. Peka krompirjevega kruha se je v večji meri uveljavila šele po 1. svetovni vojni. Krompirjev kruh je dolgo svež, njegova pomembna lastnost pa je okusnost.

Spanish brought potatoes to Europe, quite some time passed for people to get to know it and accept its manifold meaning and usage in nutrition. In the 19th century the introduction of potatoes was emphasised by their meaning in the nutrition of the poor, but also in periods of bad harvests and famine. At the end of the 18th century king Louis XV described it with the descriptive and meaningful name “bread of the poor”. Potatoes were also first used in Slovene areas for feeding pigs and making brandy. It took decades for people to learn about the manifold usage of potatoes in nutrition. Among the various types of use was the preparation of potato dough for making bread. Baking potato bread became widespread only after World War I. Potato bread keeps fresh quite long, while its important feature is its excellent taste.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Dediščina kot posebna vrednota sodobnosti Sončnični, makov in polnozrnati kruh

Heritage as a special value of contemporaneity Sunflower, poppy seed and wholemeal bread

V težkih življenjskih in naravnih razmerah so na Slovenskem veliko uporabljali razne žitne mešanice z dodatki semen in plodov. To, kar je nekoč označevalo najtežje razmere in oblike preživetja, je s sodobnimi raziskavami in pojmovanji zdravega prehranjevanja dobilo popolnoma nove razsežnosti in pomene. Beli pšenični kruh je bil posebna vrednota in simbol.

Danes to postajajo najrazličnejše vrste “prastarega” kruha, med njimi tistih, ki so označevali družbeno obrobje, pomanjkanje, lakoto.

Tudi ljudska modrost je v preteklosti poznala celo vrsto pregovorov (npr.: Gladnemu je vsak kruh kolač; Lačnemu ni noben kruh slab), ki so ljudem na robu preživetja in lakote poskušali približati razne vrste kruha s semeni in drugimi dodatki h krušnim mešanicam.

Under difficult living and environmental conditions the use of various grain mixtures with added seeds and fruit was quite common in Slovenia. What once described the most difficult situations and forms of survival was given completely new dimensions and meanings by modern research and understanding of healthy nutrition. Once, white wheat bread had a special status and was actually a symbol. Today this role is given to various “ancient” types of bread, among them are those, which once reflected marginal fields of society, shortage, famine. In the past folk wisdom even knew a number of proverbs (e.g. To the hungry every bread is a cake; To the hungry no bread is bad), which tried to bring people, who barely managed to survive, various types of bread with seeds and other additives to the bread mixtures closer.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Posladek ob peki rženega kruha Trenta ali postružnik

A sweet from making rye bread Trenta or postružnik

Posebnost pri peki rženega kruha na Koroškem so manjši nizki hlebčki ali pogače iz rženega testa, ki ga postrgajo iz lesenega korita za mesenje ali kadúnje.

Testo razvlečejo ali “potrentajo” na loparju, ga namažejo s kislo smetano, lahko tudi z mlekom in jajci ter potrosijo s soljo ali sladkorjem in kumino ali janežem.

Ta premaz z vilicami vtisnejo v testo in spečejo v peči pred peko rženega kruha. Običajno se jed uživa topla in pomeni pravi posladek. Kruh ima dve imeni: “trenta” ali “postružnik” (tudi “postržek”). Prvo je povezano z razvlečenjem testa na loparju, drugo pa s postrganjem testa iz kadúnj. Peka kruha je težko pričakovan dogodek zlasti za otroke, zato po navadi gospodinje s takimi trentami potešijo prvo lakoto.

A speciality of making rye bread in Carinthia were smaller low loaves or cakes from rye dough, which was scraped out from a wooden kneading–trough, also called “kadúnja”. The dough was rolled out or “potrentan” on a peel, covered with sour cream possibly milk and eggs, and powdered with salt or sugar and cumin or anise. Usually the dish is eaten warm and is a true desert. The bread carries two names: “trenta” or “postružnik” (also “postržek”). The first one is connected to rolling out the dough on a peel, the other to scraping out dough from the “kadúnja”. The making of bread is a moment children, in particular, can hardly wait for therefore housewives used these trentas to appease the first hunger.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Dediščina hitre prehrane Érpica

The heritage of fast food Érpica

Na območju Šmarja in Rogaške Slatine pripravljajo vrsto kruha, pravzaprav pogače, ki so jo nekoč pripravljali pred peko kruha za potešitev lakote. “Érpice” so pekli v časovni stiski, kadar so hoteli na hitro pripraviti kruh. Primerne so bile tudi za pogostitve ob večjih poljskih delih ali delih v vinogradu. Danes se je peka érpic “splošno razpasla”. Za pripravo kvašenega testa uporabijo zmesno pšenično moko z otrobi. Kepo testa razvlečejo v okroglo ali ovalno obliko. Testo namažejo s posneto smetano iz kuhanega ali pregretega mleka, dodajo tudi ocvirke. Testo zarežejo z nožem, da se med peko v peči (pečici) povsod enakomerno vzdigne. Najbolj okusna za uživanje je topla érpica takoj po pečenju, primerna je tudi kot hladna vrsta kruha k suhim mesninam in vinu.

In the area of Šmarje and Rogaška Slatina a type of bread, in fact a cake is prepared, which used to be prepared before baking the bread in order to appease the hunger. The “Érpice” were baked when pressed for time, when it was needed to make bread as quickly as possible.

They were also suitable for feasts marking important work in the fields or vineyards. Today, the making of érpica is in general decline. For preparing the leavened dough a mixture between wheat flour and bran is used. The lump of dough is rolled out to a circular or oval shape. Skimmed cream from cooked or pasteurised milk is applied onto the dough and some cracklings are added. The dough is slashed with a knife so that during the baking process it rises evenly in the oven.

It is also suitable as a cold type of bread accompanied by dried meat and wine.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Med bizeljskimi vinogradi Koruzna prga ali pršjáča

Among the Bizeljsko vineyards Prga or pršjáča from maize

Koruza je imela v prehrani na Bi-

In the region of Bizeljsko maize had an important place in nutrition. Among other dishes from maize the so-called prga or pršjáča were prepared, a sort of un-leavened bread or cake, which is made from maize grits, milk, eggs and sour cream.

Occasionally some cracklings were added too. Most often it was consumed along with sauerkraut.

It was baked in the mornings and taken as a small meal during work to the vineyard or forests.

Usually it served as a small meal, lunch with goulash or sauerkraut and for dinner. They cut or tore it into pieces and made a hole for two baked eggs in the middle.

The pršjača upgraded this way was a typical lunch for day labourers and everybody who participated in the daily work on the farm.

Today, the pršjača is a distinctive speciality of the tourist offer in Bizeljsko.

zeljskem pomembno vlogo. Tako so med drugimi jedmi pekli tudi koruzno “pŕgo” ali “pršjáčo”, vrsto nekvašenega kruha ali pogače, ki so jo pripravili iz koruznega zdroba, mleka, jajc in kisle smetane. Občasno so dodali še nekaj ocvirkov. Najpogosteje so jo uživali k zabeljenemu kislemu zelju.

Pekli so jo zjutraj in jo jemali s seboj kot hrano pri delu v vinogradu ali gozdu. Uživali so jo za malico, za kosilo z golažem ali kislim zeljem in za večerjo. Razrezali ali razlomili so jo na kose in na sredini naredili vdolbino za dve pečeni jajci. Tako obogatena pršjača je bila značilno kosilo za dninarje in vse, ki so sodelovali pri celodnevnih kmečkih opravilih. Danes je pršjača razpoznavna kulinarična posebnost v turistični ponudbi na Bizeljskem.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Kruh kot potica Pisani in mlečni kruh

Potica-like bread Colourful and milk bread

Pregovor “ne išči kruha nad potico” ima pomenljivo sporočilo. Odslikuje razmere v dediščini na Slovenskem, ko je zlasti v praznični prehrani pomenila potica z orehovim ali kakim drugim nadevom večkrat nedosegljiv ideal. Zato so se ljudje, še zlasti iz revnejših slojev, poskušali približati temu idealu, podobi, brez katere ni bilo prazničnega vzdušja. Namesto nedosegljive potice so spekli njen ponaredek – pisani kruh. Spekli so ga iz treh vrst testa (pšeničnega, ajdovega in koruznega), ki je zvit v treh različnih barvnih plasteh ustvarjal podobo potice. Velik pomen je imel tudi kakovostni beli kruh, zlasti če je bil spečen iz testa, ki so ga zamesili z mlekom in jajci. Tak mlečni kruh je bil obvezno darilo botre ob rojstvu (in krstu) otroka. Zato so bile mlinarice zelo iskane in zaželjene botre, saj je bilo v mlinih vedno dovolj bele pšenične moke za pripravo takega mlečnega kruha.

The proverb “do not look for bread over the potica” carries a very meaningful message. It reflects the situation within the heritage in Slovenia, when particularly on festive menus potica with walnut or any other filling sometimes meant a far off ideal.

Therefore people, particularly in poorer environments tried to come as close to this ideal as possible, an image, which actually created the festive atmosphere.

Instead of the potica they could not afford, a fake potica in the form of colourful bread was made. Made from three types of dough (wheat, buckwheat or maize), which was rolled in three different colour layers, it created the image of potica. Very important was also quality white bread, in particular if it was kneaded from dough with added milk and eggs. Such milk bread was a compulsory present at birth (and christening) of children. Therefore miller’s women were very popular godmothers, since in mills there was always enough wheat flour to prepare such bread.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Poseben kruh za posebne praznike Birmanski kolač in velikonočni menih, ptički in sirkov kruh

Special bread for special holidays Confirmation cake and Easter monk, birds and maize bread

Na območju Krasa, Brd in Vipavske doline je zelo razširjeno izdelovanje birmanskih kolačev. Ti se po številu, načinu priprave in oblikah zelo razlikujejo. V Brdih pozna skoraj vsaka hiša in vsaka vas svoje načine oblikovanja in krašenja birmanskega kolača ali “réšte”, ki ga izdelajo iz najbolj kakovostnega testa. Najpogosteje je birmanskih kolačev sedem, kar nekateri razlagajo s tem, da je birma eden od sedmih zakramentov, drugi spet, da je to število simbolizira sedem dobrot, ki naj bi jih bil birmanec deležen. Birmanski kolači so povezani med seboj z belim trakom in so darilo birmanskega botra (botre) birmancu ali birmanki. Velikost kolača je (bila) odvisna od premožnosti botra.

Med praznične krušne posebnosti v Brdih in tudi drugod na Primorskem sodijo še velikonočni pleteni kruhki z jajcem, ki jim pravijo “menihi”, krušni ptički kot simbol vstajenja in veselja, krušni venčki kot simbol Kristusove krone in koruzni ali “sirkov” kruh za velikonočni “frústek”. Menihi in ptički so bili najbolj pogosta velikonočna darila otrokom.

In the area of Kras, Brda and the Vipava valley a very widespread habit was the making of confirmation bread. They vary significantly by number, way of preparation and shapes. In the region of Brda almost each house and each village knew its own way of shaping and decorating confirmation cakes or “rešta”, which were made from the finest dough. There were usually seven confirmation cakes. Some say that this meant that confirmation was one of the seven sacraments, others believe that this number symbolises the seven types of benevolence, which the confirmed person is getting part of.

Confirmation cakes were connected to each other by a white ribbon and were usually a gift by the godparents to the confirmed person.

The size of the cake depended on the wealth of the godparents.

Among special festive breads in the region of Brda and elsewhere in the Primorska region were also plaited Easter breads with egg, also called “monks”, bread birds as a symbol of resurrection and joy, bread garlands as a symbol of the Christ’s crown and maize or “sirkov” bread for Easter breakfast or “frustek”.

The monks and birds were the most common Easter gifts for children.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Za poroko in druge slovesnosti Vrtanj, vrtanek in perec

For weddings and other festivities Vrtanj, vrtanek and perec

Posebnost prazničnega kruha na panonskem območju Slovenije (Prekmurje, Bela krajina) so belokranjski “vŕtanji” in prekmurski “vŕtanki” ali “vŕtaniki”. Belokranjski vrtanj je značilna podoba ženitovanjskega kruha, kolač, ki je visel na pisanem platnenem “oteraču” med ženitovanjem nad nevesto, potem pa so ga odnesli na ženinov dom. Naslednji dan ga je starešina ženitovanja razrezal. Nevesta je dobila dve tretjini kolača, ostalo so razdelili svatom. Teden dni po poroki je nevesta razdelila tudi svoj del kolača. Podobno vlogo je imel prekmurski vrtanik ali vrtanek, ki je pomenil simbol ljubezni in je bil narejen iz gladkega ali pletenega testa. Pisni viri poročajo o vrtankih že v 17. stoletju (“torta”, “torta panis”). Pekli so jih ob vseh pomembnejših slovesnostih in praznikih ter po končanih delih (košnja, žetev, mlačev).

Pleteni venčki ali “pereci” (preste) so posebnost madžarsko govorečega Prekmurja, njihova izdelava pa je povezana predvsem s kakovostno pripravo testa.

A special feature of festive bread in the Pannonian area of Slovenia (Prekmurje, Bela krajina) was “vrtanj” or “vratnik” from Bela Krajina. The vrtanj is typical wedding bread, a cake, which was hanging over the bride during the wedding on a colourful piece of linen, while later it was taken to the groom’s home. The next day the most senior person cut it. The bride was given two thirds of the cake the rest was given to the wedding guests. A week after the wedding the bride distributed her part of the cake. A similar role was played by the vrtanik or vrtanek from Prekmurje, which was a symbol of love and was made from smooth or plaited dough. Written sources from the 17th century already talk about the vrtanik (“torta”, “torta panis”). It was prepared for every important festivity and holiday as well as after completed work (cutting, harvest, thrashing). The plaited garlands or “pereci” (pretzels) are a special feature of the Hungarian speaking part of Prekmurje. Their making is connected in particular to the quality preparation of dough.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Ko na porokah še ni bilo tort Svatovska pogača

Times without wedding cakes Wedding cake

Svatovska ali ženitovanjska pogača je ena od oblik posebne vrste kruha, ki so ga v celoti šele v šestdesetih letih 20. stoletja zamenjale sodobne poročne torte. Svatovske pogače različnih oblik in okrasja so poznali na vsem slovenskem prostoru. Izjema je bila le Bela krajina, kjer je nevesta dobila vrtanj. O bogato okrašeni svatovski pogači ali kruhu poroča že Valvasor v 17. stoletju in navaja, da je bil okrašen s šopki pušpana in okrasjem iz testa, tudi z zlato peno in kosmato svilo. Pogača je bila osrednja ženitovanjska obredna jed. Razrezal jo je starešina in razdelil svatom za spomin (“šajdezen”, “šajbezen”, “šeškalca”, “pokušnja”). Na Štajerskem je prvi kos pogače ali “ladja” pripadal godcem, drugega so dobile kuharice, tretjega so razdelili med svate, četrtega pa je dobil hišni gospodar. Iz tega je razvidno, da so bile nekdanje svatovske pogače zelo velike ali celo sestavljene iz več manjših.

The wedding cake was one of the special types of bread, which was only replaced by modern wedding cakes in the sixties of the 20th century. Wedding guest cakes of different shapes featuring different decorations were known throughout Slovenia. An exception to that was the region of Bela krajina, where the bride was given a “vrtanj”. In the 17th century Valvasor already reported about opulently decorated wedding cakes or breads and wrote that they were decorated with bunches of box tree branches and decorations from dough also with golden foam and shaggy silk. The cake was the most important ritual wedding dish and was cut by the oldest person of the party who gave pieces of it to wedding guests as a souvenir (“šajdezen”, “šajbezen”, “šeškalca”, “pokušnja”). In Styria the first piece of the cake or “ladja” went to the musicians, the second one to the cooks, the third one was distributed among wedding guests, while the fourth one was given to the master of the house.

This makes it obvious that traditional wedding cakes were very large or even consisted of several smaller ones.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Darilo za haloško nevesto Pletenica ali štruca

A gift for the Haloze bride Plaited bread or loaf

Med različnimi slovenskimi ženi-

Among the various oblong shaped

tovanjskimi vrstami kruha podolgovatih oblik, okrašenih s prepletom testenih kit in s papirnatimi rožami, so tudi haloške “štrúce” ali “pleteníce”. Bile so značilno darilo nevesti, ki ga je razrezala proti koncu gostije in so ga skupaj s svati pojedli. Tako kot pri številnih drugih ženitovanjskih vrstah kruha tudi pri tem izstopa bogato okrasje s papirnatimi rožami, ki so bile vse do prvih let po koncu druge svetovne vojne najbolj razpoznavno okrasje in likovna podoba takega prazničnega kruha.

Znanje izdelovanja in okraševanja ženitovanjskega kruha se je prenašalo iz roda v rod, celostna podoba kruha je bila odvisna tudi od spretnosti in nadarjenosti posameznih izdelovalk. Tako so pletenje pletenic s šestimi ali štirimi kitami testa obvladale le redke gospodinje.

matrimonial types of bread in Slovenia decorated with a number of plaits from dough and paper flowers was also the “štručka” or “pletenica” from Haloze. It was a typical present to the bride, who cut it towards the end of the evening to eat it together with the wedding guests. Just as with many other matrimonial types of bread, this one also features rich decorations with paper flowers, which were during the first years after World War II the most distinguished decoration and creative arts image of such festive bread. The skill of making and decorating matrimonial breads was passed on from generation to generation, the overall look of the bread depended on the skills and talent of the individual bakers. The plaiting of plaits with four or six plaits from dough was a skill performed only by very few housewives.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Prispodoba otroka Bósman

Allegory of a child Bósman

Med ženitovanjskimi pogačami

Among the oblong shaped matri-

podolgovatih oblik je nekaj posebnega prekmurski “bósman” (štruca), poimenovan po obliki in pomenu, ki ga je imel v poročnem ali krstnem ritualu. Predstavljal je stilizirano podobo ženitovanjskega obrednega otroka, s katerim so na simbolen način napovedali nevestino rodovitnost, rojstvo otroka oz. porod. Tako je bila navada, da je ženin položil bósman v krilo nevesti, preden sta odšla spat.

Prav tako v Prekmurju je bila navada, da so bósman med poročno gostijo tudi sicer razumeli kot podobo bodočega otroka mladoporočencev. Zato so z njim uprizorili šaljiv krst, pri katerem so posnemali vse temeljne sestavine pravega krsta otroka. Po pričevanju je morala snaha pripeljati ob poroki k hiši omaro in tudi bósman, kar pomeni, da ne moremo govoriti le o krušnem darilu nevesti.

Bósman je bil lahko tudi darilo krstne botre krščencu. Pisna pričevanja o bósmanu segajo v sredino 17. stoletja (panis vulgo bosman dictus).

monial cakes from the region of Prekmurje is the special “bósman” (štruca), named after its shape and meaning it had within the matrimonial or christening ritual. It represented a composed image of the wedding ritual child, which served as a symbol of the bride’s fertility, the birth of a child or delivery.

It was custom that the groom put the bósman into the skirt of the bride before they went to bed. In the region of Prekmurje it was custom that at wedding meals the bósman was regarded as the image of the future child of the newly wed.

Therefore a funny sort of baptism was organised, where all basic elements of a true baptism were involved. According to tradition the daughter-in-law had to bring a cupboard and a bósman to the wedding meaning that one could not speak only about a bread type of gift to the bride. The Bósman could also serve as a gift by the godparents to their godchild.

Written reference about the bósman reaches back to the 17th century (panis vulgo bosman dictus).

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Podoba in prispodoba obilja Poročni svatovski šarkelj

An image and allegory of plenty Matrimonial wedding cake

Vse vrste ženitovanjskega kruha predstavljajo nekdanje podobe in simbole kmečkega obilja na svatbi. Kos takega kruha je bil ženinu in nevesti simbolna popotnica v njuno novo skupno življenje, vsem svatom, ki so jim razdelili razrezani kruh (“pokušnja”), pa je to pomenilo njihovo medsebojno povezanost in povezanost z mladoporočencema. Za pripravo šarklja so spekli boljši kruh iz 3 do 5 kilogramov moke. Nekateri šarklji so bili tako visoki, da so jih postrani jemali iz peči. Okrasje sedaj naredijo iz sladkorne moke in beljaka, prvotno pa so uporabljali svinjsko salo, pomešano z mlekom. Okras je bil vedno tudi odraz premožnosti poroke. Na obod šarklja so še v 19. stoletju napisali priložnostna voščila, npr.: “Bog blagoslovi novi par in celo svatovsko obsedo, da bi dolgo živeli, se radi imeli in enkrat vsi skupaj v nebesih zapeli”.

All types of matrimonial bread represent former images and symbols of rural wealth. A thin slice of bread was a symbolic travel ration for the bride and groom into their new joint life.

For all wedding guests, which were also given a slice of bread (“pokušnja”) this meant a mutual bond and a link to the newly wed.

For preparing the cake a better type of bread from 3 to 5 kg of flour was made. Some cakes were so high that they had to be taken out of the oven sideways. Today, the decorations are made from sugar flour and the white of an egg, while originally pork fat mixed with milk was used. The decorations were always an expression of the scale of the wedding. In the 19th century inscriptions with wishes for the well being were written on the circumference of the cake like “God bless the new couple and the whole wedding party to live long, love each other and may all once sing together in heaven”.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Podoba ljubezni in zakona Pleteno srce

An image of love and marriage Plaited heart

Razvojno mlajša ženitovanjska pogača v obliki srca je izdelana s prepletom testenih kit in okrašena s testenim okrasjem. Slednje je polno ljubezenske in poročne simbolike. Že osnovna oblika srca simbolizira ljubezen. Prepleti kit označujejo povezanost v zakonu in blaginjo. Mladoporočenca sta označena s pticama (goloboma), med njima prekrižana prstana sta hkrati tudi simbolno znamenje neskončnosti. Pleteno srce predstavlja del ženitovanjske dediščine Bizeljskega. Leta 2002 je znanje izdelovanja in mojstrsko obvladovanje zahtevnega dekorativnega ter simbolnega okrasja prenesla Marjanca Dobnikar pekovskim mojstrom v Pekarni Grosuplje, ki sedaj izdelujejo pleteno srce za številne naročnike in tako posredujejo del krušne dediščine tudi v sodobni čas. Podobno pleteno srce so podarili otroku ob krstu, da bi mu nikoli ne manjkalo kruha.

The development of the matrimonial heart-shaped cake started by intertwining dough plaits and decorating it with ornaments from dough. The latter represents many symbols of love and matrimony. The basic form of heart symbolises love. The intertwining of plaits symbolises the bond of marriage and prosperity. The newly weds were represented by birds (pigeons), the intertwined rings were at the same time a symbolic sign of eternity. The plaited heart represents a part of the matrimonial heritage of the Bizeljsko region. In 2002, the skills of making and perfectly mastering the demanding decorative and symbolic decorations was passed on to the master bakers of the Pekarna Grosuplje bakery by Marjanca Dobnikar. This way a part of the bread heritage was preserved for modern times.

A similar plaited heart was given to a child at a christening, so that he would never lack bread.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Ptičje in druge svatbe Ptički in pecivo k bósmanu

Birds’ and other weddings Birds and pastry to go with bósman

Vsakoletno pomladno spreminjanje v naravi so ljudje povezali tudi s ptičjimi svatbami, in sicer na valentinovo (14. 2.), gregorjevo (12. 3.) in urbanovo (25. 5.). Za gregorjevo se je ohranilo mnenje, da se na ta dan ptiči ženijo. Urbanovo je praznovanje vinogradnikov, najslabše pa je z valentinovim. Zanj smo v devetdesetih letih 20. stoletja prevzeli vsebino in obliko angloameriškega praznovanja. Prav dediščina vseh treh ptičjih svatb pokaže na žlahtne vsebine, namenjene predvsem otrokom in mladini, ki so na te dni hodili po hišah z izražanjem želja po dobri letini in bili pri tem “nagrajeni” z okusnimi darilnimi kruhki v podobi ptičev, zataknjenih za veje grmovja in dreves. Na Koroškem so bili taki testeni ptiči značilna darila otrokom za Miklavža. Zavito, polžasto pecivo pa sodi k prekmurskemu bósmanu, torej posebnemu ženitovanjskemu in krstnemu kruhu.

Every year, people linked the changes in nature to bird’s weddings, in particular on Valentine’s Day (February 14th), Gregory Day (March 12th) and St. Urban’s day (May 25th). It is believed that the birds get married on Gregory Day. St. Urban’s day is the feast of the winegrowers, while the worst example is Valentine’s Day. In the nineties of the 20th century, the content and form of this habit was adopted from the AngloAmerican celebration. The heritage of all three bird’s weddings show noble content, aimed particularly at children and youth, which on those days went from door to door wishing good harvest and being “rewarded” with delicious gift breads in the shape of birds, stuck on branches of bushes and trees. In Carinthia these birds, made of dough, were typical presents to children on St. Nicholas day. The curved, scrolled pastry is considered to go well with the bósman from the region of Prekmurje, a special matrimonial and baptismal bread.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Prazniki in ocvirki Ocvirkovka in luštrakajca

Holidays and cracklings Crackling cake and luštrajkarca

Skoraj vsi prazniki so bili vedno povezani z obilnejšo jedačo in pijačo. Hrana v pustnem času je morala biti čimbolj mastna in vsak se je moral do sitega najesti.

Tako se četrtek pred pustno nedeljo imenuje “debeli” ali “tolsti” četrtek in velja za godovni dan vseh debeluhov. Med značilnimi vrstami kruha oz. potic na ta dan je tudi kruh z ocvirki ali “ocvirkovka”, ki se razlikuje od “špehovke”.

Značilnost nadeva za slednjo so narezana klobasa, slanina in ocvirki, pri ocvirkovki pa nadev predstavljajo le ocvirki, ponekod z dodanimi pomladnimi zelišči. Slednja so značilnost za cekljansko “luštrakajco”, značilni pomladni praznični kruh (potica), ki ga nadevajo z ocvirki, luštrekom, drobnjakom in čebulnim perjem ter ga postrežejo na praznični mizi in za malico ob različnih domačih opravilih.

Almost all holidays were more or less connected to plenty of food and drink. Food during the carnival time had to be as fatty as possible and everybody had to eat as much as he could take. Because of that Thursday before Carnival Sunday is called “fat” Thursday, and is considered the name day of all fat people. Among the typical types of bread or cakes on this day is also bread with cracklings or “ocvirkovka”, which differs from the “špehovka”. The typical feature of the filling for the latter are sliced sausages, ham and cracklings, while for the ocvirkovka the filling consists of cracklings only. Sometimes spring herbs are also added. These herbs are typical of the “luštrajkarca” from Cerkno, a typically spring festive bread (potica), filled with cracklings, lovage, chives and onion leaves. It is served on a festive table and for small meals during work around the house.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Za boljše dneve boljši kruh Béklin

Better bread for finer days Béklin

Tudi peka kruha na domovih je

Even the making of bread at

doživljala in doživlja svoje spremembe. V Prekmurju, kjer panonsko podnebje zelo ugodno vpliva na gojenje raznih žit, se je v zgodovinskem razvoju uveljavilo več vrst vsakdanjega in prazničnega kruha ter pogač. Še danes je kruh ena temeljnih in najbolj razširjenih sestavin vsakdanjega prehranjevanja. Za praznične priložnosti so pekli vedno boljši kruh v obliki hlebcev ali kolačev iz pšenične bele moke, maščobe, mleka in jajc. Nekatere vrste tega prazničnega kruha so bile okrašene s svaljki testa, spletenimi v kito. Danes je najbolj pogosta podolgovata štruca ali “béklin”.

Pripravijo jo iz pšenične bele ostre moke, pred pečenjem jo premažejo z jajcem in z ostrim nožem zarežejo več črt, da se kruh med pečenjem ne razpoči.

Beklin pečejo tudi kot značilni velikonočni kruh.

home has undergone many changes. In the region of Prekmurje, where the Pannonian climate has a very favourable effect on growing different kinds of cereals, during its historic development several types of everyday and festive types of bread as well as cakes became widespread. Even today, bread is one of the basic and most popular items of everyday nutrition. Better bread in the shape of cakes or loaves from white wheat flour, fat, milk and eggs was always prepared for festive occasions. Some types of this festive bread were decorated with rolls of dough, plaits to form a braid. Today the most common is the oblong loaf or “bélkin”. It is prepared from white wheat flour.

Prior to baking it is covered with eggs and slashed several times with a sharp knife so that the bread does not break up during baking. The belkin is also prepared as typical Easter bread.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Čarodejna moč velikonočnega kruha Velikonočni kruh in šarkelj

The magic power of Easter bread Easter bread and cake

The white milk bread from the Beli mlečni kruh iz Ptujskega polja je le eden od številnih vrst velikonočnega kruha, temeljnih sestavin blagoslovljenih jedi, ki se imenujejo “žegenj”. Uživanje velikonočnega kruha naj bi ljudem zagotovilo življenjske moči in zdravje. Enako tudi živini, ki je bila vedno deležna dela velikonočnega kruha. Na Koroškem pripravijo kot velikonočno pecivo “šarkelj”, ki ga pečejo še za druge pomembnejše praznike. Šarkelj je velikonočno darilo botrov svojim krščencem. Njegov nadev je iz rozin in cimeta, bogatejši je polnjen z orehovim nadevom. Šarkelj ima značilno potičasto obliko, torej z luknjo v sredini. Prav v to luknjo so nekdaj botri položili krščencem nekaj denarja. S šarkljem so bili praznično obdarovani tudi posli, ki so sodelovali pri delu na kmetiji, torej hlapci in dekle.

Ptujsko polje field is just one of numerous types of Easter bread, a basic element of blessed dishes, commonly known as “žegenj”.

Eating Easter bread should provide people with vital energy and health. The same was believed for cattle, which always shared a part of the Easter bread. In Carinthia a cake called “šarkelj” is prepared as Easter bread, a type of bread that is also prepared for other important occasions. The šarkelj cake is an Easter present by the godparents to their godchild. Its filling is made from raisins and cinnamon, the more copious ones with walnut filling.

The šarkelj cake takes the typical shape of rolled cakes, meaning with a hole in the middle. The godparents used this hole to put some money for their godchildren. The šarkelj cake was also given to servants, which helped out with the work at the farm, meaning stablemen and milkmaids.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Kakor pri delu, tako pri jelu!

Pisani orehov kruh

At work and at the table alike!

Colourful walnut bread

Zaključke raznih del in opravil spremljajo zapitki in pojedine. Ne le v družinskem okolju, ampak tudi takrat, kadar pri delu pomagajo, sodelujejo sosedje, sokrajani, prijatelji ali obrtniki in delavci.

Dokončano delo se zaključi s sproščenim uživanjem hrane in pijače, kar se imenuje likof. Izraz smo prevzeli iz nemške besede Leikauf, kar pomeni pijačo ob sklenjeni kupčiji. Etimologi so ugotovili še starejši pomen te besede, ki je prvotno pomenila “žganje ob kupčiji”. Zapitki po končanih delih so bili značilnost tudi v preteklih obdobjih zgodovinskega razvoja. Ob večjih likofih, npr. po žetvi, mlačvi, metvi in drugih delih, so spekli pisani orehov kruh, ki so ga uživali ob salami in suhem mesu, vse skupaj pa zalivali z jabolčnikom ali moštom.

Various work processes and types of work are usually concluded with a drink and feast. Not only in the family environment, but also when the work is done together with neighbours, villagers, friends or craftsmen and workers.

The work done is wrapped up by a relaxed enjoyment of food and drinks, which is also called likof (topping-off). The expression was taken from the German word Leikauf, which means a drink to accompany a deal. Etymologists have discovered an even earlier meaning of this word, which meant originally “brandy for the deal”. The feast after all work has been done was typical also in past periods of historical development.

During important likof, for example, after reaping, thrashing, grinding and other types of work, a colourful walnut bread was made, which was eaten accompanied with salami sausages and dry meat, while rounding it off with cider or must.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Bog se usmili duš v vicah!

Vahči

Lord have mercy on the souls in purgatory!

Vahči

Na območju Logatca, Rovt in tudi v drugih krajih Slovenije je bila navada, da so dan pred vsemi svetimi ali dnevom mrtvih otroci iz revnejših družin hodili od hiše do hiše in nabirali hlebčke kruha.

Ker se praznik vseh svetih imenuje tudi “vahti”, so te hlebčke imenovali “vahči”, tudi “vahtiči”.

Hlebčke so nabirali od jutra do večera v platnene vreče in se zahvalili z besedami: Bog lonaj! Bog se usmili duš v vicah! Pri posameznih, zlasti premožnejših hišah so za ta namen spekli tudi po 200 vahčev iz različnih vrst moke, odvisno od tega, katerega žita (pšenica, ječmen, oves, koruza) so na posamezni kmetiji največ pridelali. Otroci iz številčnejših družin so tako nabrali kar lepo število vahčev. Nekaj so jih pojedli takoj, večino pa so jih posušili in jih v naslednjih dneh pojedli nadrobljene v mleku. V nekaterih krajih so vahče pobirali tudi dan po vseh svetih, to je na dan vernih duš.

On the eve of All Saint’s Day on the outskirts of Logatec, in Rovt and in other places in Slovenia it was tradition for children from poorer families to go from door to door and gather small loaves of bread. Since the holiday of All Saints is also called “vahti”, these small loaves were called “vahči” and even “vahtiči”. The small loaves were collected from morning till dusk into linen bags and those who received them thanked with the words: God reward! Lord have mercy on the souls in purgatory! At individual, particularly wealthier houses, up to 200 vahtiči were baked for this occasion made from various kinds of flour, depending on what type of cereals (wheat, barley, oats, maize) was mostly cultivated on this farm.

Kids from families with many children could gather a good number of vahči. They ate some right away, while most of them were dried and eaten in the next few days crumbled in milk. In some places the vahči were collected even one day after the All Saints’ Day, on All Souls’ Day.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Obdarovanje otrok in revežev Prešice ali prešce

Presenting gifts to children and the poor “Prešice” or “prešce”

Obdarovanje otrok in revežev je bilo najbolj razširjeno okoli praznikov vseh svetih in vernih duš.

Na Koroškem so jih obdarovali na mihelovo (29. 9.), v okolici Vrhnike so na martinovo (11. 11.) spekli “martinčke”, na Primorskem pa “vahtiče” (iz nem. wachen – bedeti) – hlebčke kruha z jagodami izabele. Na Gorenjskem je bilo splošno razširjeno obdarovanje otrok in revežev na vse svete s hlebčki, imenovanimi “prešice” ali “prešce”. V njihovem imenu se skriva spomin na nekdanjo vrsto presnega, torej nekvašenega kruha, ki so ga pozneje zamenjali hlebčki iz kvašenega ajdovega ali rženega testa; še posebej so bili značilni za okolico Škofje Loke. Sicer so prešice pekli tudi drugod na Gorenjskem in iz drugih vrst testa. Nekateri berači so si nabrali toliko kruha, do so imeli posuše-nega na zalogi za več mesecev.

Giving presents to children and the poor was most popular around All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day. In Carinthia they were given presents on St. Michael’s Day (September 29th). In the area around Vrhnika the so-called “mar-tinčki” were made on St. Martin’s Day (November 11th), while in the Primorska region one of the typical dishes was “vahtič” (from German wachen - being awake) - small loaves of bread with grape-berries. In Gorenjska giving presents in the form of loaves called “prešice” or “prešce” to children and the poor was generally popular on All Saints’ Day. Their name reminds of the former flat, meaning unleavened type of bread, which was later replaced by loaves of leavened buckwheat or rye dough; they were particularly popular in the area of Škofja Loka. The prešice breads were even made elsewhere in the Gorenjska region and from other types of dough. Some beggars collected so much bread that they could store dried bread for months.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Od Martina do adventa Kruh z oljkami, sirkova pogača, kruh z orehi, figov kruh

From St. Martin to advent Olive bread, maize loaf, walnut bread, fig bread

Martinovanje ali jesenski pust je

Celebrating St. Martin or the autumn carnival is a celebration, linked to must turning into wine.

On St. Martin’s Day the new, young wine is blessed and it is tradition that on this important holiday of wine-growers and viticulturists, for example, in the Brda region olive bread is made which goes perfectly with tasting of the new wine. Since St. Martin’s Day is an important celebration of the end of harvesting, the tables are full of cakes, among them are also maize loaves. Cakes were not only festive dishes of late autumn, they were also prepared for everyday snacks or as a side dish at lunch. In the advent season, when awaiting Christmas, quite often fig bread was made, which in winter perfectly replaced pastry in the Brda region. Into the dough of a standard or sweet white bread, figs cut into small pieces were added and the dough was baked under a special lid (”črepnja“) on a fireplace or in the oven.

praznovanje, povezano z moštom, ki se spreminja v vino. Na martinovo se blagoslavlja novo, mlado vino in ob tem velikem prazniku vinogradnikov in vinarjev je navada, da npr. v Brdih spečejo kruh z oljkami, ki se odlično druži s pokušanjem novega mladega vina.

Ker je martinovo pomemben praznik zaključka letine, so na mizah pogače, med njimi tudi sirkova (koruzna). Pogače niso bile le praznične jedi v tem poznem jesenskem času, ampak so jih pripravljali tudi za vsakdanjo malico ali kot prikuho h kosilu. V adventnem času, obdobju pričakovanja božiča, so v Brdih pogosto spekli figov kruh, ki je odlično nadomestil pecivo v zimskem času. V testo navadnega ali sladkega belega kruha so vmesili na drobno narezane fige in ga spekli pod črepnjo na ognjišču ali v peči.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Poslastica pridnim, opomin porednim Parkelj

A treat for the diligent, a reminder for the mischievous Parkelj

Miklavževi obhodi s parklji in an-

The rounds by St. Nicholas with

geli so razmeroma mlad kulturni pojav. Še ob koncu 19. stoletja Miklavža kot maskirane osebe marsikje niso poznali, poznali pa so parklje. Ti strašljivi liki imajo veliko starejši izvir. V predkrščanstvu so predstavljali podobe duhov prednikov. Krščanstvo jim je nadelo podobo zla, torej hudiča, in jim za protiutež postavilo Miklavža, poosebljenje vsega dobrega. Miklavž začenja v sodobnosti verigo decembrskih obdarovanj, ki jo zaključita božiček in novejši, po koncu druge vojne uvedeni dedek mraz. Med tradicionalnimi Miklavževimi darovi je tudi figuralni kruh v podobi parkljev, ki ne predstavljajo le okusnega pekovskega peciva, ampak so primer tehnološkega obvladovanja testa in oblikovalskih izraznih možnosti, ki jih to gradivo ponuja.

the ”parklji“ figures and angels are a relatively recent cultural phenomenon. At the end of the 19th century St. Nicholas as a dressed up person was widely unknown, however this cannot be said about the parkelj. These frightening creatures boast of a far older origin. In pre-Christian era they represented the spirits of the ancestors. Christianity gave them the image of evil, meaning the devil, which was counterbalanced by St. Nicholas, a personification of everything good. In modern times St. Nicholas opens the December season of giving presents, which is wrapped up by Santa Claus and Jack Frost, introduced just after World War II. Among the traditional gifts from St. Nicholas is a figurative bread in the shape of the parkelj, which does not represent only a delicious baker’s bread but is also an example of technological mastering of dough and expressive design options, featured by this material.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Božič med Slovenci v Porabju Klocovi krü

Christmas among Slovenes in the Rába region Klocovi krü

Na dan pred božičem, ki se imenuje tudi “sveti post”, so porabski Slovenci v Sakalovcih in na Gornjem Seniku na Madžarskem pripravili praznični sadni kruh (“klocovi krü”). Podobno kot Slovencem v Prekmurju, v Slovenskih Goricah, Prlekiji in ponekod na Štajerskem je bil tudi v Porabju sadni kruh osrednji božični kruh oz. praznična pogača. Testo so zamesili z vodo, v kateri se je pred tem kuhalo suho sadje (jabolka, slive in hruške). Dodali so droži oz. kvas, da so dobili hajano testo. Kuhano sadje so tako kot orehova jedrca narezali na tanke rezine oz. koščke in jih dodali testu.

Potem so oblikovali manjše hlebčke, ki so jih spekli v peči.

On the day before Christmas Eve, which is also called ”the holy fasting“ Slovenes from the Rába region in Sakalovci and Gornji Senik (Felsőszőlnők) in Hungary prepared a festive fruit bread (”klocovi krü“). Just like the Slovenes in the Prekmurje region, the region of Slovenske Gorice, Prlekija and in places around Styria, even in the Rába region the fruit bread was the most important Christmas bread or festive cake. The dough was kneaded ready with water, where dried fruit was cooked before that (apples, plums and pears). A yeasted starter or yeast was added to get leavened dough. The cooked fruits were cut along with walnut kernels into thin slices or pieces and added to the dough. After that the dough was formed into smaller loaves and baked in the oven.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Mojstrovina na božični mizi Poprtník

Masterpiece on the Christmas table Poprtnik

Podobno kot v velikonočnem času ima tudi o božiču kruh posebno vlogo in pomen. Kot poseben božični simbol je božični kruh ostajal na mizi v hiši vse božične praznike do svetih treh kraljev.

Tako so pri nekaterih hišah spekli le en hlebec takega prazničnega kruha, pri drugih tudi po tri; enega za božič, drugega za novo leto in tretjega za tri kralje. Hlebci so se lahko tudi razlikovali po vrsti moke, uporabljene za pripravo testa. Tako so spekli po en pšenični, ajdov in rženi kruh. Za praznični božični kruh je na Slovenskem cela vrsta imen, oblik in okrasja. Zelo razširjeno ime je “popŕtnik”, “poprtník”, “poprtnják”, “podpŕtnik”. Že njegovo ime pove, da so kruh pokrili s prtom. Tako je počakal do zaužitja na določen dan v prazničnem obdobju. Tradicija peke poprtníkov je še zelo razširjena. Tako so npr. na razstavi velikolaških poprtníkov v gostilni Pri Kuklju leta 2002 razstavile kmečke žene čez 40 različnih kruhkov poprtníkov.

Just like at Easter at Christmas bread has a special role and meaning. As a special Christmas symbol the Christmas breads remained on the table in the house during the whole Christmas festivities until the Three Kings’ Day. In some houses only one loaf of such festive bread was prepared, while at others sometimes even three were prepared; one for Christmas, the other for new year and the third one for the Three Kings’ Day. The loaves could differ by type of flour used for making the dough.

One wheat, buckwheat and rye bread were prepared. There are a number of names, shapes and decorations for festive bread in Slovenia. Quite widespread is the name ”popŕtnik“, ”poprtník“, ”poprtnják“, ”podpŕtnik“. Its name already tells us that the bread used to be covered with the tablecloth. It stayed this way until it was eaten on a certain day during the holiday time. The tradition of making poprtník bread is still widespread. For example in 2002, at the exhibition of poprtnik bread in Velike Lašče at the Pri Kuklju restaurant local women displayed more than 40 different types.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Kar je pridelal človek in ustvarila narava Sadni kruh

Produced by man and created by nature Fruit bread

V Slovenskih Goricah je za božič značilen sadni ali “klojcov” kruh, tudi “klecenbrot”. Z manjšimi hlebčki takega kruha so obdarovali otroke na tepežni dan ali pametivo. Sicer se v načinih priprave sadnega kruha odslikuje tudi družbeno razlikovanje v preteklosti. Na revnejših kmetijah so spekli sadni kruh iz črne (ržene ali mešane) moke in mu dodali narezane posušene jabolčne in hruševe krhlje (“klojce”) ter suhe slive. Na premožnejših kmetijah, tudi v trških in mestnih družinah, so spekli z nadevom bogat sadni kruh iz bele moke. Testu so poleg suhega sadja, namočenega v kuhanem vinu, dodali še cimet, rozine, orehe, lešnike, mandlje, fige, posušene marelice, pomaranče, limono in koščke čokolade. Sadni kruh je bil osrednja sladica božičnega časa.

In the region of Slovenske Gorice Christmas is typically accompanied by a fruit or ”klojc“ bread also called ”klecenbrot“. Smaller loaves of this type of bread were given to children on Childermas or ”pametiva“. The ways of making fruit bread reflects the social differentiation in the past.

On poorer farms fruit bread was made from dark (rye or mixed) flour while adding dried apples or pears (”klojec“) as well as dried plums. On wealthier farms but also in market towns filled bread was made from white flour. Apart from dried fruit, soaked in hot wine cinnamon, raisins, walnuts, hazelnuts, almonds, figs, dried apricots, oranges, lemon and pieces of chocolate were added. The fruit bread was the most important desert of Christmas time.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Od božiča do treh kraljev Žúpnek

Dokaj razširjena imena za božični kruh so “žúpnek”, “žúpnjak” in “žúpnik” (Ribniška dolina, Velike Lašče, Kostelsko, Loška dolina, okolica Postojne, okolica Cerkniškega jezera). Ime hipotetično spominja na nekdanjo obvezno dajatev (desetino), ki so jo morali okrog božiča dajati župniku. Tudi ta vrsta božičnega kruha je bila vedno zelo bogato okrašena z okrasjem iz testa in s kitami.

Kruh je moral ostati na mizi vse do treh kraljev, čeprav so ga npr. v ribniški dolini prvi del načeli že o božiču. Posamezni “župneki” so bili v preteklosti tudi zelo veliki. Velikost in teža sta bili tolikšni, da sta si morali pri vsajanju v peč pomagati kar dve gospodinji. Poleg verskih znamenj in simbolov so bile med okrasjem pogosto tudi domače živali (npr. kokoši s piščeti, ovce, race in gosi).

From Christmas to the Three Kings Žúpnek

Relatively popular names for Christmas bread are ”žúpnk“, ”župnjak” or ”župnik” (the Ribnica valley, Velike Lašče, Kostel area, Loka valley, area of Postojna, area of the Cerknica lake). The name hypothetically reminds of the former obligatory duty (tithe), which had to be given to the parish priest around Christmas. Even this type of Christmas bread was always richly decorated with ornaments from dough and plaits. The bread had to remain on the table until the Three Kings’ Day although for example in the Ribnica valley they started to eat it at Christmas.

In the past the individual ”žúpnek” breads used to be also quite large. The weight and size were usually so big that two housewives had to help out to get the dough into the oven. Apart from religious signs and symbols there were usually also domestic animals (e.g. hens with chicken, sheep, ducks and geese) among the decorations.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Magični udarec s šibo Mali kruhki na tepežnico

Magical stroke with a rod Small breads on “tepežnica” day

“Tepežnica”, “pametiva” ali “dan

The “tepežnica”, “pametiva” or

nedolžnih otročičev” ima na Slovenskem veliko oblik. Eno predstavlja tudi fantovsko tepežkanje v Stranah pod Nanosom, ko so fantje na prvo nedeljo po treh kraljih hodili po vasi in z brezovimi ali leskovimi šibami tepežkali dekleta: “Zakaj se niste poročile ob cajti? O, punčke, zdej jih boste dobile enmalu!” Za magične udarce s šibami so bili fantje obdarjeni s klobasami, mesom, jajci in denarjem. Zvečer so pripravili skupno večerjo iz nabranih darov ter zaplesali ob jedači, pijači ter glasbi. Posebnost te zabave je bilo licitiranje malih kruhkov pod božičnim drevescem, ki so jih spekla vaška dekleta. Licitirane kruhke so fantje podarili dekletom, možje pa ženam. Med slovesnostjo so morali dobro paziti, da jim kruhkov ne bi ukradli fantje iz okoliških vasi, kar bi bila velika sramota.

“day of the innocent children” takes many shapes in Slovenia.

One of them is also the tradition of “tepežkanje” in Strane at the foot of Nanos, when boys on the first Sunday following the Three Kings’ Day walk around the village with birch or hazel-rods and are symbolically hitting girls: “Why didn’t you marry on time?

Oh girls, now you will have to take a little!” For magical strokes with rods the boys were given sausages, meat, eggs and money. In the evening a joint dinner from the collected donations was prepared with dancing to food, drink and music. A special feature of this feast was auctioning small breads under the Christmas tree, which were prepared by local girls. The auctioned breads were given to girls by boys and by men to women. During the celebration they had to take good care that the breads would not be stolen from boys from neighbouring villages, which was regarded as a big shame.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Po delu in za praznike Belokranjska prostáča

After work and for holidays The prostáča from Bela krajina

Značilna vrsta belega nekvašenega kruha je “prosta pogača” ali “prostáča”. Testo oblikujejo v okrogle ali podolgovate oblike, z nožem naredijo zareze v obliki mreže in posujejo s kumino. Podobno pripravijo tudi prostače iz koruzne moke in v testo zamesijo mleko, maslo in sladkor. Prostača je bila značilna jed ob delih na polju ali v vinogradu. V novejšem času se uveljavlja tudi kot razpoznavna belokranjska krušna jed v ponudbi turističnih kmetij in na sprejemih. Postala je značilna pogača dobrodošlice in gostoljubja.

Sicer je to razmeroma težka vrsta kruha, ki so ga uživali ob krompirju in fižolu, kadar je primanjkovalo običajnega kruha. Posebnost uživanja prostače je v lomljenju posameznih kvadratkov, ki jih nakazuje z nožem zarezana mreža v pogači.

A typical type of white unleavened bread is the “prosta pogača” or “prostáča”. The dough is shaped into a round or oblong shape, while slashing it crosswise and cumin spread on top. Even the prostáča from maize flour is prepared in a similar way while adding milk, butter and sugar to the dough. The prostáča was a typical dish accompanying work in the fields or vineyards. More recently it is becoming a typical bread dish from Bela krajina as part of the offer of tourist farms and at receptions. It has developed into a typical cake of welcoming and hospitality. It is a relatively heavy type of bread, which was eaten along with potatoes and beans, when standard bread was scarce. The speciality in eating the prostáča is in pinching individual squares, which are indicated by the grid on the cake made by a knife.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Kruh kot torta in potica hkrati Mlinčevka

Bread both as cake and potica “Mlinčevka”

Mlinčevka je prava posebnost

The mlinčevka is a true speciality

med prazničnim kruhom. Njeno testo je obogateno z različnimi sočnimi nadevi, ki si sledijo med plastmi mlincev. Vse pa je položeno v vzhajano testo iz bele mehke moke in pečeno v okroglem globokem pekaču. V vzhajano testo, ki ga položijo v okrogel pekač tako, da ga razvlečejo čez njegov rob, polagajo plasti, in sicer najprej jajčni nadev ali “sir”, tega pokrijejo z mlincem in nanj namažejo jajčni nadev (“sir”) z orehi. Tudi tega pokrijejo z mlincem in ga namažejo z jajčnim sirom. Sledi še en mlinec in nanj namazan orehov nadev, ki ga prekrijejo z naslednjim mlincem. Slednjega namažejo z jajčnim nadevom (“sirom”) z orehi in rob vzhajanega testa, ki gleda čez rob pekača, zavihajo proti sredini.

Mlinčevko premažejo s stepenim jajcem in pečejo v krušni peči.

Izvrsten, sočen in nasiten kruh tako postane imenitna sladica na praznični mizi.

among festive breads. Its dough contains various succulent fillings, which follow one another among flat cake layers. Everything is put into leavened dough from fine white flour and baked in a round deep baking pan. Into the risen dough, which is put into the round baking pan in such a way, that it is rolled out across the edge of the baking pan, layers are laid, usually an egg filling or “cheese” first, followed by a flat cake and on top of that the egg filling (“cheese”) with walnuts is spread.

It is followed again by a flat cake and egg cheese spread followed by another flat cake and walnut filling on top that is again covered with the next flat cake. The last is covered by the egg filling (“cheese”) with walnuts and the end of the leavened dough, looking over the edge of the baking pan, is turned towards the centre. The mlinčevka is covered with whisked egg and baked in a baker’s oven.

This way the excellent, succulent and filling bread becomes a fine desert on the festive table.

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Krušni zakladi Slovenije Bread Treasures of Slovenia

Kruh, prikazan v knjigi, so izdelali: Breads, shown in this book were made by: 12 14 16 18

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20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78

Pekarna Grosuplje Pekarna Grosuplje Pekarna Grosuplje Drago Ota, pekarna Ota, Boljunec (Bagnoli della Rosandra), Trst (Trieste), Italija Marija Oraže, Sele-Borovnica (Zell-Freibach), Avstrija Pekarna Grosuplje Pekarna Grosuplje Milka Podričnik, Lom, Mežica Marija Junež, “Trlično”, Rogaška Slatina Zdravka Kampijut, Bizeljsko Gostilna Pri Kuklju, Velike Lašče, Pekarna Grosuplje Afra Prinčič, Kozana, Dobrovo v Brdih Marija Janžekovič, Radovica, Metlika, Antonija Pal, Turnišče Milena Kozmus, Paneče, Jurklošter Terezija Vogrinc, Žetale Marija Raj, Turnišče Nada Baškovič, Skopice, Krška vas Pekarna Grosuplje Marija Raj, Turnišče Gostilna Pri Kuklju, Velike Lašče, Valerija Kavčič, Cerkno Antonija Pal, Turnišče Rozika Sagadin, Dragonja vas, Cirkovce, Jožica Havle, Stražišče, Ravne na Koroškem Ani Draksler, Črdenc, Dol pri Hrastniku Amalija Istenič, Hotedrščica Nada Legat, Naklo Afra Prinčič, Kozana, Dobrovo v Brdih Marija Kolenc, Spodnja Rečica, Rečica Pekarna Grosuplje Tibor Časar, Andovci (Orfalu), Porabje, Madžarska Milka Debeljak, Gornje Retje, Velike Lašče Ivanka Žižek, Sveti trije kralji, Benedikt Milka Debeljak, Gornje Retje, Velike Lašče Milka Premrl, Strane, Hruševje Marija Škof, Boldraž, Metlika Francka Javeršek, Kristan vrh, Podplat

Pleteno srce na strani 2 je izdelala Fanika Korošec, Frankolovo The plaited heart on page 2 was made by Fanika Korošec, Frankolovo

Krušni zakladi Slovenije •

Bread Treasures of Slovenia

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