Fitzhugh Row / Farm to Doorstep / Asian Cuisine / Recipes of the Season No. 74 Jan/Feb 2021
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EDIBLE ENDEAVOR
RECIPES OF THE SEASON
How MilkRun is helping
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Turkey Chili
On The Cover
30
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Explore the mushroom world at Hi-Fi Mycology. Photo by Ralph Yznaga.
FITZHUGH ROW
FARMERS DIARY
Local scene that's full of
The hidden world of
options & dripping with fun
mushrooms
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CONTENTS
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LIVE INSPIRED
10 What’s On Our Counter 12 N otable Edibles
16 Friends & Family Patio Dogs
20 Spotlight On Local Asian Cuisine
24 P lant This/Enjoy This Now 46 Edible Ink
Utterly Edible Mushrooms
48 S napshots Around Austin
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PUBLISHER’S note
Austin’s only
A
fter the past year full of struggles, uncertainty, and unrest, I am so thankful to be starting off a new year – one that I hope is filled with many positive moments for us all. We still don’t know what this year will look like or when the turning point for local businesses will be, but I do know that those who make it through this very difficult time will come out the other side stronger, wiser and more adaptable than they have ever been.
At Edible Austin, we are so grateful that we have been able to sustain our mission to support local restaurants, farmers and small businesses by sharing their unique stories and insights into their worlds. We’ve had to work harder and smarter, make changes to our operations, seek out new partnerships to help boost revenues and reduce costs wherever possible, all without sacrificing the quality of the magazine. We are fortunate to have advertising partners who believe in our mission and have continued to support us, and we continue to look for creative and innovative ways to help their businesses in return. In spite of all the difficulties facing the food and beverage industry in Austin right now, we are amazed by the continued growth and expansion of areas and the opportunities Austinites have to enjoy new experiences in and around the Hill Country. One of those experiences we highlight in this issue is exploring the Fitzhugh Road corridor, which has become a must-visit destination with a variety of breweries, wineries, distilleries, special event centers and more. And as we welcome in the Lunar New Year, we can also celebrate the Asian cuisine that Austin has become known for and has continued to thrive despite the unprecedented challenges. We give you a list of some of our favorite accessible, fast and takeout-friendly Asian food restaurants. The cover art on this issue is of a magnificent mushroom, blossoming in its fullest beauty and reaching forward toward the light. It symbolizes for me what we all have to look forward to in the upcoming year — renewed hope, energy and inspiration. The story of Hi-Fi Mycology is one of mushroom farming, technology and innovation and is another great example of how a local company has adapted their business to survive. We hope you enjoy reading this issue, and we wish you all a year full of health, happiness and success in 2021!
ORGANIC, RAW, COLD-PRESSED juice & nut milk PUBLISHER Monique Threadgill monique@edibleaustin.com
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Ralph Yznaga ralph@edibleaustin.com
EDITOR Sarah McConnell sarah@edibleaustin.com
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Edible Austin Mission To transform the way Central Texans eat by connecting them to the local food growers, producers and makers, thereby strengthening the local food economy and creating a sustainable local food system. Edible Austin is a locally owned media company and the authority on the local food scene as captured in print and digital and through our community events.
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W H AT ’ S
ON OUR COUNTER Story and photography by MONIQUE THREADGILL
Take a look at what we are enjoying this month.
PRETTY THAI TIGER SMIRK SAUCE
ROUND ROCK JELLY & CO
Local Austin couple, Robert and Kristen Strong, developed Pretty
Family-owned Round Rock Jelly & Co has perfected the art of
Thai brands to offer a variety of Thai sauces and seasonings that
making jams and jellies made with the finest ingredients. Their
can help you create your favorite Thai dishes at home. One of their
seasonal selections range from their Texas Bar Fight to more of
newest additions to their sauce lineup is the Tiger Smirk Sauce,
their unique flavors such as Margarita jelly and Salted Cantaloupe
with its unique combination of herbs and spices that makes it
jam. Owner Sheri Valencia says the company really took off
great for grilling, dipping and stir fry. We sampled it with baked
after her Hot Pepper jam won 2nd place in the 2019 World Food
Championship’s
Biscuits
and
Jampionship
salmon and fresh steamed broccoli, and it was just the right blend
category.
of tangy and savory. The couple got their start in Austin with a
We sampled the Pomegranate Bubbly jelly and were delighted
food truck, and then transitioned into bottling their sauces and
with the clean, crisp mix of 100% pomegranate juice
spices, while always maintaining their commitment to creating
combined with the bubbly spritz of champagne. You can
products with simple, authentic ingredients and big flavor. Today
order online and pick up or have them shipped to your door.
their products can be found online, or in local HEBs,
They offer free local delivery within 15 miles of Round Rock.
Central Markets, Thom’s Markets and Wheatsville Food Co-ops.
roundrockjellyandco.com
TONI’S TOFFEE
prettythaibrand.com
SOUTH AUSTIN PEOPLE’S LAVENDER SPRAY Many Austinites are familiar with South Austin People’s natural
When we are looking for a little sweet treat to munch on during the day, one of our newfound favorites is Toni’s Toffee. Local chocolatier, Toni Yancer, makes all of her toffees using premium ingredients starting with warm Irish butter, local organic almonds roasted to perfection, refined sugar and a smooth semisweet chocolate. From there, she adds her magical blend of seasonings and spices to create her unique, crunchy, creamy toffee products. Flavors include her award-winning Original semisweet chocolate, Hunka Burning Love infused with cayenne pepper, and Magic Unicorn with rosemary sea salt. You can order online and pick up or have them shipped to your door. tonistoffee.com
soap products, but we recently picked up a bottle of their Lavender Room and Cloth Spray and loved the way it freshened up the air in our office. SoAP is a company of professional artisans, whose body care products are made fresh, by hand, with no unnecesary dyes, chemicals or petroleum. The Lavender Room Spray is a convenient way to fill the air with a fresh, natural scent that is simple and not overpowering. SoAP has many other great products, from hand soaps, to body lotions, and even shampoos and conditioners (for people and for dogs!). Lavender Spray can be ordered online or purchased locally at the Austin Gift Company on South Lamar. southaustinpeople.com
10 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 11
NOTABLE edibles
NOTABLE edibles
Notable Edibles
Eatery Offering a Unique Take on Chicken Salad Opens in North Austin
by SARAH MCCONNELL
Texas' Oldest BBQ Joint Opens a New Location in Hutto
Husband and wife duo Ivan and Molly Mills are the owners of a new establishment serving original chicken salad creations on Burnet Road in North Austin. Chicken Salad Shoppe features a number
Barbecue lovers, rejoice! Texas' oldest BBQ joint — Southside Market &
of “flavoristic” options, as they like to say, in the form of
Barbeque, founded in 1882 in Elgin — has a new location in Hutto. With
sandwiches, wraps, sides and even their monster half-pound cookies
additional storefronts in Bastrop and Austin, the newest installation of this
for dessert.
legendary restaurant is nestled in Hutto’s Co-Op District where it's serving
Some of these flavoristic options include apricot and blueberry,
the same beloved menu of fine sausages and smoked meats. photo by NOM BURGERS
chipotle chicken, buffalo bleu cheese, The James Banh (a spicy Thai
Third-generation Pitmaster Bryan Bracewell and his wife, Rachel, are the
peanut banh mi) and The Texan made with fried chicken. The shop also
owners of the legendary barbecue brand, which has grown over the last
offers soups (with a bread bowl option) and other rich and flavorful accompaniments like jalapeño cheese macaroni, a grilled vegetable
138 years from a one-man butcher shop into the Central Texas staple it is photo by La JOIE
today. Customers can order BBQ-by-the-half-pound in varieties like USDA Prime brisket, ribs, turkey, chicken and jalapeño cheddar sausage. Alongside the meat, a slew of comforting and indulgent sides, such as beans, coleslaw, potato salad or corn on the cob, can be paired to make a meal. For dessert, cobbler, banana pudding and hand-dipped ice cream
salad or a cheese tortellini salad. To finish off your meal, those Texas-sized monster cookies come in an assortment of seasonal and
Cedar Park Gets a New CreoleInspired Oyster Bar
regular flavors like Nutella-stuffed double chocolate chip, strawberrycheesecake-stuffed sugar and King Bubba, a decadent creation
Fans of Creole cuisine need look no further than Central Texas now to
delivery inside The Vanilla Orchid, an esteemed catering company
Visitors to the new Hutto location can enjoy Southside Market’s iconic
enjoy their favorite Louisiana-style dishes. The new creole-inspired
also owned by the Mills.
barbeque in a spacious indoor dining room, outside on the patio or via
oyster bar, La Joie, scratch makes authentic dishes like shrimp-n-grits,
take-out.
bouillabaisse, seafood gumbo and po’ boy sandwiches amidst the
Find the new Hutto location at 106 Co-Op Boulevard, or hop online
charming ambiance of southern style French décor.
Restaurant Inspired by 1920s Style and Elegance Opens in Lakeway
described as a “half-pound of peanut butter cookie kingship.’’ The shop is currently operating as a ghost kitchen for take-out and
cones round out the market’s hearty menu.
photo by THE GRAMERCY
Find Chicken Salad Shoppe at 7433 Burnet Road and order online at chickensaladshoppe.com.
The Gramercy, an elegant new bar, lounge and restaurant located in the Oaks at Lakeway shopping center, is inviting patrons to step back in time and raise a toast to the 1920s. Owners Suzanne and Billy-Joe Hunt were inspired to open The Gramercy because of their family's historical connection to The Gramercy Park Hotel in Manhattan. This Lakeway establishment transports guests back to a time when boutique hotels provided a sophisticated setting to
to shop their premium seasoning blends, sauces and merchandise at
Inspired by childhood memories spent in the kitchen with both of his
share a cocktail with friends. With their newest installation in
southsidemarket.com.
grandmothers, Executive Chef Nicholas Harrison has crafted a menu at
Lakeway, the Hunts are honoring their family legacy and bringing bygone
La Joie that highlights his Louisiana roots and love for Creole cuisine.
New York City charm to the Texas Hill Country.
The restaurant's name was inspired by his grandmother who would say
The restaurant menu features a sophisticated take on American bar food
“C'est la joie” to describe the joy of cooking and the pleasure of sharing her
with options like steak frites, chicken wings, sliders and the Gramercy
techniques with the next generation.
Burger — a gourmet creation made with 44 Farms beef, smoked gouda, bibb lettuce, tomato, onion and mayo. Keeping in step with the Roaring
As part of their mission, La Joie sources ingredients like prime meats
Twenties, the establishment also features an extensive drink menu with
and vegetables from Austin-based farmers and other purveyors. Some
beer, wine and an abundance of signature and classic cocktail selections.
of their featured vendors include Hi-Fi Mycology, Hausbar Farms, Boggy Creek Farm and Round Rock Honey, among others. And true to its own
Visit this exquisite new establishment at 1516 Ranch Road 620 South Ste. 200
roots, the restaurant also showcases a variety of raw oysters harvested by
in Lakeway. Find them online at gramercylakeway.com.
producers on both the East and West Coast and divine, French-Quarterinspired pastries and desserts prepared fresh daily.
photo by CHICKEN SALAD SHOPPE
Visit La Joie at 1500 East Whitestone Boulevard, Suite 200, in Cedar Park or find them online at lajoieaustin.com. photo by SOUTHSIDE MARKET & BARBECUE
12 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 13
NOTABLE edibles
NOTABLE edibles
Brewery Serving Craft Brews and Cubano Food Launches in Pflugerville
Littlefield’s Brings Tacos and Coffee to Tarrytown Littlefield’s, a sweeping outdoor area with food trucks from
A new brewery in Pflugerville is making a splash in the Austin beer scene.
Veracruz All Natural and Medici Roasting, has arrived in Austin’s
Willard’s Brewery offers beer lovers the chance to sit back and enjoy one-
Tarrytown neighborhood. The fully enclosed courtyard offers a
of-a-kind brews in their spacious beer garden set with picnic tables and a
spacious environment for kids to play while other guests enjoy a
delicious Cubano food truck.
bite to eat or a coffee from two of Austin's favorite food curators. In this one courtyard, Austinites can find all of their favorite Veracruz
Willard’s Brewmaster Ramon Astamendi carefully crafts everything
menu items, like migas, quesadillas and tacos of all sorts as well as
from lagers and pale ales to hazy IPAs, drawing inspiration from the photo by THE WELL
explosion of current creativity in the Central Texas brewing scene. Willard’s Fistful of Fury IPA and Zero Hour Pale Ale are just a couple of the craft
cocktail options to boot. Whether it be craft beer, hard seltzer or another beverage of your choosing, no matter your indulgence, Mojo’s food truck on site is the perfect pairing. The food truck showcases the best of Cubano cuisine
and love.
track and field and football coach at The University of Texas at Austin,
Healthy Dining Option on a Mission to Give Back Opens in the Heart of Downtown
who previously owned the space. The name is also a nod to the “little field” where children can play, set amongst greenery, live oak trees, picnic tables and bar seating. Enjoy this beautiful outdoor courtyard and food truck stop at 2401 Winsted Lane or to book an event, find them at littlefieldsatx.com.
with street tacos, pupusas, tortas and chilaquiles, all braised in an authentic Central-American-style mojo sauce.
photo by THE BUTCHER'S BURGER
The name — Littlefield’s — comes from Clyde Littlefield, the former
brews to choose from. The brewery also cans and produces Big Country Organic Hard Seltzers in an assortment of fruity flavors with wine and
the Medici coffee drinks, pastries and other lunch items locals know
A new eatery emphasizing healthy living, nutrition-based meals and
The meat masters behind Salt & Time, the renowned Austin butchery
sustainable farming practices has launched in downtown Austin. The Well Check out this exciting new brewery and treat yourself to a good time
features an entirely gluten-free, soy-free and refined sugar-free menu with
at 2400 Patterson Industrial Drive, Pflugerville. Find them online at
the option to make nearly any item vegan, nut-free or dairy-free.
Masterminds Behind Acclaimed Butcher Shop, Salt & Time, Launch Restaurant Devoted to Burgers known for its exclusively Texas-raised meats, have embarked on a new venture: The Butcher’s Burger. This new eatery is devoted to making high-quality burgers curated by expert craftsmen, Ben Runkle and
willardsbrewery.com.
Bryan Butler.
Crafted by Jon Oh, culinary director for Nova Hospitality and Liv Langdon, holistic health coach and nutrition consultant, The Well’s
The idea for the establishment started with the growing popularity of their
nutrition-focused cuisine includes smoothie bowls, gourmet toasts,
signature burger offered at Salt & Time. Their Classic Burger, made from
organic bone broth, sourdough bread, salads and more. The owners take
top-quality steak trimmings, house-made dill pickles and mayo, quickly
pride in the fact that all items are made in-house and sourced locally
became a fan favorite around Austin and beyond. As the demand for their
whenever possible. As part of their mission, The Well also works with
burger grew, the two decided to launch a separate business devoted solely
organizations throughout the city to provide healthy meals to underserved
to their fine-crafted Texas burgers.
communities every week.
Along with the cherished Classic Burger, the menu highlights an innovative
Visit this innovative eatery at 440 2nd Street for take-out or to enjoy a meal
list of other burger creations made with patties like spiced chicken and
on their outdoor patio. Order for delivery at eatwellatx.com.
zucchini, vegetarian halloumi cheese and ground and braised lamb with Oaxacan Asadero cheese. The menu also features a breakfast-for-dinner burger with a pork chorizo patty, fried egg, avocado and pico de gallo. To accompany the burger selections are a host of mouth-watering sides, like beef fat French fries, a jicama and kale slaw, and chocolate chip cookies, photo by LITTLEFIELD'S
proving Runkle and Butler can cook more than just meat deliciously. The Butcher's Burger is currently operating only as a delivery service with
photo by WILLARD'S BREWERY
14 / EdibleAustin.com
plans to open a full-scale restaurant. To place an order and stay up-to-date about future plans, visit thebutchersburger.com. EdibleAustin.com / 15
edible FRIENDS
edible FRIENDS
& FAMILY
Patio Dogs
Before you head out, pack a “doggy bag,” including a leash, a harness or
by SARAH WELCH
of their dogs’ resource guarding and the approach of strangers. If dogs
Since Austin has the most dog-friendly restaurants per capita, it’s hard to narrow down a list of favorites, but here are a few that are great options
collar, a blanket or mat, extra water, a bowl and a puzzle toy or something
for you and your pup:
to chew. However, the DogBoy’s team cautions, “owners should be careful
list by MONIQUE THREADGILL
FRESA’S SOUTH FIRST
are in close proximity to each other, avoid food or other things your pup
I
& FAMILY
might guard.”
Not only is Fresa’s a great place for gathering friends and family, their
n Austin, patio dining is available almost all year, meaning our dogs
At the restaurant, pick a table out of the line of traffic, but be prepared
massive outdoor patio is also a go-to place for people who want to dine
can often join us as we support our favorite local restaurants. We
for your precious pup to attract attention. If people ask to feed or pet
with their dogs. 1703 South First fresaschicken.com
spoke with the training team at DogBoy’s Dog Ranch, a training,
her/him, check in with your dog. If she’s/he’s okay with it (“loose,
boarding and daycare facility in Pflugerville, to learn what we humans
wiggly body, leaning toward the stranger, and soft eyes,” accord-
JESTER KING BREWERY
need to know to ensure dining out with our four-legged family members
ing to the DogBoy’s team), feel free to say “yes.” If she’s/he’s not
is fun and safe for everyone involved.
in the mood, never hesitate to say a polite but firm “no.” If some-
After working hard to revise their operation due to COVID, Jester
First, be sure your dog has the skills to be a good patio buddy. This is important not only for the safety and comfort of fellow diners, but for your own dog’s safety and comfort, too. Your dog should have a handle on basic commands and be generally comfortable with people and activity. She/he should not be reactive to people or other pups. It’s not just the dog who needs to build patio skills. “Pet parents should be aware of their dog at all times, and a basic knowledge and understanding of a dog’s body language is a must,” says the DogBoy’s team. “Training a dog to settle on a mat is a fantastic foundation behavior that can be taught at home and practiced in several environments to get
King is open and ready to welcome you and your pup to their
one approaches without asking, or doesn’t respect your “no,” the
fabulous 165 acre adult and puppy playland in the Hill Country.
DogBoy’s team encourages advocating for your dog. “You can step
13187 Fitzhugh Road jesterkingbrewery.com
between your dog and a stranger to body-block them if they aren’t listening, and you can teach your dog to move away or behind you.”
LORO
Taking our dogs out to dinner can be tons of fun, but it’s up to us to be
Along with great food, Loro has a beautiful, large outdoor patio on South
sure they enjoy it as much as we do. If your dog isn’t a patio pup —
Lamar that welcomes dogs and their people.
if she’s/he’s aggressive, reactive, nervous or fearful — that’s okay! Your
2115 S Lamar Blvd loroaustin.com
pup will just be happier at home with her or his toys. But if your pup is
ANGEL’S ICE HOUSE
sociable, and you’re able to set her/him up for success, then by all means, give her/him a seat at the table.
Just a short drive down Hwy 71 in Spicewood is a hidden gem for people to enjoy food and fun with Fido under the Texas stars. Their
the dog ready to relax.”
expansive outdoor area is the perfect place to entertain you and
When you’re choosing a restaurant, look for a pet friendly setup. “Dog
your pooch. 21815 Hwy 71W angelsicehouse.com
friendly patios need lots of space, plenty of exits, water, shade and a place
COSMIC COFFEE
where the dog can feel safe close to the owner,” says the DogBoy’s team.
Cosmic
Coffee
on
South
Congress
has
a
large
dog-friendly
patio along with exciting sites for you and your dog to see including a chicken coop and a pond and waterfall garden (but no swimming allowed – the pond is a biological home to many flora and fauna). 121 Pickle Road cosmiccoffeebeer.com
TEXICAN CAFE With four locations offering covered, outdoor patios to accommodate people and their pooches, the Texican Cafe has been serving their El Paso-style Tex-Mex for over 30 years to happy Austinites and now folks in Kyle. 11940 Manchaca Rd. / 11066 Pecan Park Blvd. (Cedar Park) 856 Kohlers Crossing (Kyle) / 4141 Capital of Tx Hwy texicancafe.com
AUSTIN EASTCIDERS Austin Eastciders recently opened up their first restaurant on Barton Springs Road, and they have a huge dog-friendly patio (plus swings for the adults). 1530 Barton Springs Road austineastciders.com
Bo at Cosmic Cafe by MONIQUE THREADGILL
16 / EdibleAustin.com
Eddie at Texican Cafe by JULIET YZNAGA
EdibleAustin.com / 17
edible ENDEAVOR
edible ENDEAVOR Here’s how MilkRun works: customers first select a base, which includes
From Farm to Doorstep
either a produce box or a pasture-raised meat box. From there, they can
by SARAH McCONNELL
will also collect all boxes, bags, cartons and containers afterward to
fill their virtual grocery cart with local grocery items using an online ordering system, selecting from add-ons like sourdough bread, eggs, coffee, dairy and more from a growing list of Central Texas providers. Among others, shoppers will find goods from Shirttail Creek Farm, Rambler, Wholesome Meats, Easy Tiger and Steelbow Farm. MilkRun recycle for future use, so shoppers can feel good about the choice to both
M
support local businesses and promote sustainability. ilkRun is a weekly subscription service that delivers
MilkRun even offers one-time orders, so customers can experiment and
pasture-raised
wild-caught
customize boxes to their liking before committing to MilkRun’s weekly
meats,
seasonal
produce,
seafood and customizable grocery items from the farm to
subscription services. Each box also includes detailed stories from
you. With its Austin debut, MilkRun supports Central Texas farmers,
Central Texas producers and step-by-step recipes that highlight the
ranchers and other food purveyors and makes fresh, local foods readily
ingredients within the box. Some of the featured recipes include a squash
available to the community.
and cauliflower soup, an apple galette and an autumn harvest salad.
Headquartered in the Pacific Northwest, MilkRun was founded by
Niiro speaks with fond appreciation for the warm welcome she’s received
Julia Niiro in 2018 with a mission to support the small-scale farmers of
from the Austin community. “United by the root of the root — food —
Oregon. As a farmer herself, Niiro’s inspiration to launch the business
we've been humbled and honored to see how Austin farmers, makers,
came from a lack of available markets to sell her freshly grown goods.
investors and consumers have welcomed us in. The ‘rising tide lifts all
Together, with the help of other small scale farmers in the
boats’ comradery has opened a lot of doors as we grow our footprint to
community, Niiro began distributing their farm-fresh products
change the future of food distribution across the world,” she says.
in the Portland area. From there, the business evolved from a quaint, neighborhood operation into the expansive delivery service it is today. Niiro’s farming knowledge, coupled with her background in digital
MilkRun offers safe, contactless and free deliveries every Tuesday and Thursday. The business also hosts pop-ups for easy grocery pick up at various locations across Austin. Order your box and have your favorite local foods delivered directly to you at localmilkrun.com.
marketing and technology, has allowed her to build an online platform where local farmers, ranchers, bakers and artisans can sell their products to consumers without a middleman. This business model benefits not only customers who are receiving the freshest foods available, but also local producers who can retain more revenue by selling their products directly to consumers without a third party. In just two short years, the company has expanded from Portland to Seattle, Vancouver, Washington, and now, Austin, with plans to eventually extend their services nationwide. In Portland and Seattle alone, MilkRun provides food from over 100 local farmers and producers to more than 3,000 customers. Austin’s reputation as an innovative and passionate city made Niiro’s decision to expand here easy. “I was drawn to Austin’s unique position in Texas and the South as a major hub for collaborative innovation and new technology, but also a city that loves supporting local businesses. Austin's commitment to honoring the traditions of the past while preserving the value of hard work makes it the ideal place for us to cultivate our roots,” Niiro says. Texican Cafe photos by MILKRUN
18 / EdibleAustin.com
photo by JESSICA ATTIE
EdibleAustin.com / 19
spotlight on LOCAL
Austin’s Astounding Asian Cuisine by SEAN ARMSTRONG
T
acos. Tex-Mex. Barbecue. These three styles of food have
SICHUAN RIVER
defined Austin’s cuisine for decades. But with the city’s rapidly diversifying palate and ravenous appetite for the next hot
thing, we are happily searching out another type of food that is satiating
4534 West Gate Boulevard
Austin’s hunger.
sichuanriverchinese.com
While Asian cuisine has long had a presence here, celebrated upscale
Tucked away in an unassuming South Austin strip mall, Sichuan River
hot spots like Uchi, Wu Chow, Qi and Otoko (not to mention the ever-
has been quietly churning out some of the city’s best and most mouth-
expanding Tatsu-ya empire) have helped put our city on the national map
numbingly authentic Szechuan dishes for over half a decade. Owner
for Asian fare. Luckily, Austin’s recent Asian food renaissance isn’t limited
Cindy Zhao opened the restaurant in 2015, and in doing so, offered a
to the higher-end establishments — accessible, fast and takeout-friendly
welcome southern exception to North Austin’s more established Chinese
favorites continue to thrive in the face of unprecedented challenges.
food scene.
With the Lunar New Year nearly upon us (February 12, 2021), there’s no
The cuisine’s signature spice flows in abundance on specialty dishes
better time to celebrate these eats from the other side of the world. Here
like the Szechuan stir-fried chicken or spicy jumping fish. These are
are five outstanding Austin restaurants not to miss. They promise to start
addictive tongue-tingling experiences that leave you chasing a burn that
the flavor fireworks, just in time for the Year of the Ox.
builds and builds, but, thanks to the Szechuan pepper’s natural numbing powers, never quite ignites.
RICE BOWL CAFE 11220 North Lamar Boulevard
While the spicy standouts earn their reputation, the massive menu offers plenty of well-prepared Americanized fare for those who don’t enjoy fighting back tears with every bite. Standards like fried egg rolls
ricebowlcafeaustin.com
and steamed dumplings offer plenty to savor without the heat (until you
To get this out of the way: Yes, Rice Bowl Cafe does have bowls of rice.
sour soup belies its straightforward name with a depth of slurp-worthy
But behind the humble name lies a world of bold, authentic flavors that
goodness that deserves far more sophisticated adjectives.
wisely dip it into the accompanying Szechuan sauce), while the hot and
have earned the long-time favorite its place in the Austin Chinese food pantheon. From familiar favorites like egg rolls and kung pao chicken to more adventurous fare like crispy pig ears and pork feet noodle soup, the expansive menu is all killer and no filler. Diners in the know start with the roast beef rolls. With four burrito-esque rolls of tender beef, onion and lettuce wrapped up in crisp green onion pancakes fried to flaky perfection, it’s truly an entrée of an appetizer. The frying artistry reaches new heights with the sinfully savory salt and pepper fish, while umami abounds in hearty dishes like mapo tofu and the richly complex three-cup squid. Whether you stick to your tried-and-trusted favorites or close your eyes and point at the menu, Rice Bowl Cafe always delivers.
20 / EdibleAustin.com
photo by EURASIA
photos by RALPH YZNAGA & JULIET YZNAGA
Sichuan River owner Cindy Zhao
EdibleAustin.com / 21
BAO’D UP
EURASIA AND EURASIA RAMEN
Mueller: 1911 Aldrich Street
7101 West Hwy 71 Suite #C13
Sunset Valley: 5207 Brodie Lane
1335 E Whitestone Blvd #T110, Cedar Park
West Campus: 2222 Rio Grande Street
Eurasiasushiaustin.com eurasiaramen.com
North Austin: 8023 Burnet Road (Inside Kitchen United Mix) Baodup.com
Say you’re in the mood for sushi. But also maybe steak and wings. And
For a nearly 1,800-year-old delicacy, bao is so amazingly hot right now.
you know what? Throw in some deep-fried fish cake while you’re at it.
The plush, palm-sized morsels are the star attraction at Bao’d Up,
Eurasia has what you’re looking for and then some. With a menu that runs
Ting Li and Alex Wu’s mini-empire of fast-casual, comfort-food-focused
the gamut from traditionally prepared sushi to ramen to chicken wings to,
eateries. Also known as baozi, gua bao or Chinese hamburgers for the
naturally, an entire subsection of Indonesian Cornish hen, this Oak Hill
unimaginative American, bao typically consists of delicately steamed
restaurant caters to eclectic tastes.
white buns stuffed with various sweet or savory fillings.
Despite the breadth of options, the quality and attention to detail runs
Handmade daily and steamed in authentic bamboo baskets, Bao’d Up’s
deep. One notable dish in particular is the Bakso Sapi Special, a savory
irresistible namesake buns are light and pillowy puffs of joy, the ideal
broth-based noodle and meatball dish described without context as
vessel for quickly and efficiently delivering handfuls of endorphins to
“Obama’s favorite.” For more familiar slurps, Eurasia’s ramen selections
your brain. The restaurant’s ever-evolving menu features an array of
deliver hot and hearty nourishment straight to your soul.
alluring fillings, from traditional pork belly or red bean paste to more Texas-inspired interiors like brisket or barbecue chicken.
The restaurant’s Cedar Park outpost, EurAsia Ramen, doubles down on the noodle experience with an expanded ramen selection. Featuring
All this goodness is backed up by very capable sidekicks like delightfully
chicken, vegetable and spicy broth options in addition to the classic
spiced crinkle-cut Szechuan fries, perfectly pickled veggies or a rich
creamy pork, the pancontinental menu proves that a jack-of-all-trades can
hoisin sauce. Contentment can also be found in liquid form here with a
still be a master of several.
colorful array of bubble teas to choose from with customizable levels of
Bao'd Up photo by JULIA KEIM
ice and sweetness.
SAIGON LE VENDEUR 2404 East 7th Street Austin, TX 78736 Just across the railroad tracks at an awkward East Side intersection, some of Austin’s most satisfying bites are served from a nondescript shipping container. Saigon Le Vendeur’s signature banh mi has been a staple of the city’s sandwich scene since owner Tebi Nguyen established the original East 7th Street food truck in 2013. Served on a lightly toasted french baguette with homemade Vietnamese mayo, cilantro, pickled carrots and daikon, cucumbers, Bao'd Up owners Alex Wu & Ting Li by JANE KIM
jalapeños and various mouthwatering protein options, the food truck’s banh mi is the archetype of handheld perfection. Try the grilled pork with a fried egg for a messy, hedonistic journey to self actualization — or opt for the O.G. to enjoy banh mi in its purest, most traditional form: stuffed full of marinated cold cuts and paté. For those who don’t like to get their hands dirty, the vermicelli side of the menu offers the same endlessly devourable qualities in more civilized bowl form. But no matter what mystical concoction comes out of that shipping container, it’s sure to be sweet, savory, spicy, crunchy and best paired with a refreshing, iced jasmine tea. Rice Bowl Cafe owners Elaine Sun & Roger Jang by RALPH YZNAGA
22 / EdibleAustin.com
Bao'd Up photo by JULIA KEIM
Roast Beef Rolls at Rice Bowl Cafe
EdibleAustin.com / 23
Plant This Now List provided by Sustainable Food Center
photo by JENNIFER SCHMIDT
Arugula
Artichokes
Asparagus
Asparagus
Beets
Beans (Fava)
Bok Choy
Beets
Broccoli
Cabbage
Brussels Sprouts
Carrots
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Carrots
Chard
Cauliflower
Greens (Asian)
Celery
Greens (Collard)
Chard
Greens (Mustard)
Cilantro
Kale
Collards
Kohlrabi
Dill
Leeks Lettuce Onions Peas (English) Peas (Snap) Peas (Snow) Potatoes Radish Spinach Turnip
Enjoy This Now
Grapefruit Garlic (Green)Kale Kohlrabi Leeks Lettuce Mushrooms Mustard Greens Oranges Parsley Pecans Peas Potatoes Radishes Spinach Spring Onions Strawberries Tomatoes (Greenhouse) Turnips
photo by DIVYANSH SHARMA
24 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 25
RECIPES OF THE
SEASON story and photography by HEATHER BARNES
CLASSIC CHEESECAKE WITH STRAWBERRY SPIRAL Makes 8 servings Total Time: 75 minutes
Chilly weather calls for cozy recipes shared with those you love. Here are a couple of delicious recipes to keep you warm and chase away the cold this winter season. This luscious and classic cheesecake is made with a crumbly graham cracker crust and heavenly soft center. It’ll make a statement on your dinner table, too, with a striking red spiral of fresh-picked strawberries — perfect for serving on Valentine’s Day! 1 ¼ c.
graham cracker crumbs, crushed
photo by DIVANI
Preheat the oven to 350°. In a bowl, mix the crushed graham cracker crumbs, 2 tablespoons of sugar and the butter. Press into the bottom
1 c. plus 2 T. sugar
of a 9-inch springboard pan with your fingers. Bake for 10 minutes
3 T.
butter, melted
and set aside to cool.
18 oz.
cream cheese
1 c.
sour cream
Bring oven temperature down to 300°. With an electric mixer, beat
2 t.
lemon zest
cream cheese, adding the remaining sugar gradually. Beat until fluffy.
¼ t.
vanilla
Add in the sour cream, lemon zest and vanilla and beat in 1 egg at a
3
eggs
time. Pour over the graham cracker crust. Bake for 1 hour until the center is firm. Allow to cool and refrigerate before adding a spiral of fresh strawberries.
26 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 27
recipes of the SEASON
TURKEY CHILI Makes: 8 servings Total Time: 45 minutes
This spicy turkey chili has been a family favorite recipe for years. It’s hearty with a bit of heat, and lasts a full week for easy lunches that are filling. It’s also customizable: throw in any chopped seasonal produce you have on hand to mix it up and can be garnished with cilantro, cheddar cheese and a dollop of sour cream if you’d like!
2 T.
olive oil
2
garlic cloves, minced
1
yellow onion, diced
48 oz.
ground turkey
1
packet spicy taco seasoning
2 15 oz. cans black beans 1 15 oz. can corn 1 15 oz. can kidney beans 1 28 oz. can crushed tomatoes 2 c.
photo by loan F
fresh spinach, chopped
1
/4 c.
cheddar cheese
½ c.
cilantro
In a Dutch oven or large pot, add 2 tablespoons of olive oil with 2 minced garlic cloves. Cook on medium heat for about 5 minutes. Add the diced onion and allow to soften for another 10 minutes or until translucent. Add the ground turkey and packet of taco seasoning and brown the meat, stirring constantly and breaking it apart. Add the beans, corn and tomatoes, cover, and bring to a simmer for 20 minutes. Add in chopped spinach and stir for a few more minutes. Garnish with cilantro and grated cheese!
28 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 29
edible ESCAPES
FITZHUGH
ROW by STACEY INGRAM KALEH
T
he secret’s out. Fitzhugh Road, casually referrred to as Fitzhugh Row, nestled between Austin and Dripping Springs, has evolved into a must-visit destination for
all those interested in a casual, authentically Texas experience at
breweries,
wineries,
distilleries
and
more.
Ever
since
Jester King Brewery opened in 2010 and made a statement with its
BEERBURG BREWING & RESTAURANT 13476 Fitzhugh Road Austin, TX 78736 beerburgbrewing.com Passionate. Intentional. Homegrown. Authentic.
sour farmhouse brews set within sweeping Hill Country vistas on a family-friendly property, the local area’s landscape has significantly
These are all words that come to mind after a conversation with
shifted and growth has exploded. So much so that it can feel hard to
Beerburg Brewing founder and native Austinite Trevor Nearburg. No
keep up, even for foodies, beer mongers, whiskey connoisseurs and
stranger to the brewery scene, Nearburg is committed to brewing
locals. But have no fear!
stellar hyper-local beers through sustainable practices and building
We’ve rounded up a list of
a customer experience that is intangible and meticulously thought
new and happening spots
out. “There’s a lot about the energy of a place. I knew I could brew
not to be missed—that is,
good beer, but I wanted to create a good experience and bring the joy
until more come around.
and pride and excitement I feel when I’m brewing to my team and, ultimately, to the customer. Whether it’s perceived or not, I want
While you may have visited
people to walk away with an emotional connection.”
Jester King or neighbors like Last Stand Brewing,
Following a career in international affairs and finance that took him
Revolution
and
from Austin to stints in India and New York City, Nearburg found his
Vineyards,
passion for brewing after experimenting with homebrewing with his
Fitzhugh Road has many
brother. Quickly realizing that brewing was more than just a hobby
other
gems
and interested in a less traditional career path, he visited as many
that make it worth visiting
local craft breweries as possible and fell in love with the creative,
again and again. If your
counter-culture energy and welcoming spirit of Texas breweries
new
resolutions
and the brewing community. “It was important to me to create a
include trying something
place that could be a creative outlet, that could be a haven for that
new, being more intentional when it comes to eating, drinking and
culture that really inspired me,” he said. “And the community aspect I
supporting local businesses, or taking visitors out for a great
observed at other local breweries stood out to me in a huge
socially-distanced time, make plans to spend a day exploring the
way—the specific focus on local ingredients, collaborations and
Fitzhugh trail. And don’t forget to fuel up at some great local
community-building.” With a desire to learn hands-on and from the
restaurants while you’re at it!
inside-out, he got his first brewery job stacking cases at Real Ale and
Solaro
Trevor Nearburg
Spirits
Estate
unexplored
year
eventually became head brewer at Uncle Billy’s. 30 / EdibleAustin.com
Beerburg photos by RALPH & JULIET YZNAGA
EdibleAustin.com / 31
edible ESCAPES
edible ESCAPES As we sit outside in the beer garden, wearing our masks on a warm
Looking ahead, Nearburg and Gutierrez hope to see families and
and sunny November day, we take in a view of beautiful rolling hills
groups of friends in their beer garden, their spacious and vibrant
FITZHUGH BREWING
and, as we discuss what’s on tap and what’s on the menu, Nearburg
taproom open to the views of the brew tanks and kitchen, people
15435 Fitzhugh Road, Dripping Springs, TX 78620
points all around us to the native plants and trees on the property.
enjoying their obsession-worthy seasonal tacos, kids playing in
fitzhughbrewing.com
From the cedar and juniper trees to persimmons, agarita and more,
their outdoor play space, dogs running around their dog park, and a
elements from the surrounding environment are infused into the
continued expansion of their sustainability efforts, with an eye on
Driving along the Hill Country road, Fitzhugh Brewing appears like
beer, so that when you drink a pint glass of the Juniper IPA or
adding solar panels and rainwater collection to the property. Beerburg
an oasis — its bright and inviting farmhouse tasting room appearing
Mugwort ESB (Extra Special Bitter), you are literally experiencing
is not just a brewery, it’s a community.
from the road. Embodying its motto, “Everything Casual. Nothing Care-
the native landscape. What’s more, Nearburg is a trained herbalist.
newbies and aficionados alike. Co-owner and General Manager Kerbey
ger, a refreshing yet complex and textured brew, with carnitas ta-
Smith has been working with her family at Pecan Springs Ranch, a Hill
cos on flour tortillas made in-house from Gutierrez’s grandmother’s
Country wedding venue, for the past six years. Inspired by
recipe. Or, try the Wildcraft Mugwort ESB for more herbal notes
Magnolia Market in Waco, Smith wanted to offer a similar experience
The taproom was open just one month before it was shut down due
and order a signature, baked-in-house Bavarian pretzel. Look-
in the Austin brewery space, with a focus on warmth, beauty and
to the pandemic. But it is ready to welcome visitors and family groups
ing for something sweet? Explore a wide assortment of inventive
space for the entire family. Head Brewer Nathan Rice, known for his
of all ages when it is safe to do so. Nearburg values inclusion, and his
and delectable house-made ice creams, ranging from orange
recipe design and experimentation, is on a mission to bring back
brewery manifests that value at every turn. Entering the tap room,
creamsicle to caramel apple. Come ready to try something new,
“forgotten beers” with origins in Australia, Africa and Eastern
the first thing you notice is an expansive mural by local artist Fabian
something authentically Texan and have a good time.
Europe while embracing the Texas Hill Country spirit. On the menu
He gets excited about this “wildcraft” aproach and finds ways to use some often overlooked and underused plants that grow right in our backyards.
Ricardo Gutierrez by BEERBURG BREWING & RESTAURANT
Rey, whose artwork also adorns Beerburg’s cans, featuring two hands Now an established pro, Nearburg has built his dream project on
of different colors “cheers-ing” with the words, “Better Together” and
Fitzhugh Road, his ideal location. “I specifically sought out this
“Come As You Are." There are options on both the beer and food
location. Fitzhugh Road is important to me because it has an Austin
menus for customers with any dietary restriction, including vegan,
address, it’s just across the Travis/Hays County line (in Hays), which
gluten-free and low-hops.
means fewer restrictions and less red tape, and the Hill Country view is incredible.” Beerburg Brewing is a sprawling 15-acre property comprising a taproom, farm-to-table scratch kitchen and outdoor beer garden.
“Instead of putting money into equipment and distribution, we invest more in our people, the experience of the place and creating a real destination. This being a specifically Austin and Hill Country brewery, I wanted it to be very much that. I want you to come out,
brewer
experience the energy of the plants and the land, because when these
Gino Guerrero, Nearburg has intentionally identified seemingly every
are growing and thriving, you feel that. I think people pick up on
opportunity for Beerburg to be socially and environmentally
that positive energy of a place where things are in balance with nature,
conscious, prioritizing quality local ingredients and sustainability in
and everything is a little brighter and happier. There’s nothing more
all that they do. They source beef from local farmers, milk and eggs
local than Beerburg and you can see it, feel it and taste it.”
Working
closely
with
chef
Ricardo
Gutierrez
and
from Vital Farms and the freshest, ethically-grown vegetables from farms in the Rio Grande Valley, close to where Gutierrez grew up. Gutierrez has been in the kitchen since the age of 6, and his specialty is Mexican food, so you won’t want to skip Beerburg’s tacos. “I take pride in making a dish from scratch,” he says, “and it also eliminates a lot of the preservatives and chemicals.” As far as the beer goes, Nearburg and Guerrero use local grains, exclusively Texas malts and local herbs. Beerburg even has a staff position dedicated to local partnerships and sourcing. The brewery itself is located on relatively untouched land and has adopted permaculture principles — design centered on whole systems thinking, simulating and using resilient
features
observed
in
natural
ecosystems.
Guerrero
spearheads the brewery sustainability plan and permaculture initiatives for Beerburg, ensuring that their programs conserve existing resources, replenish the aquifer their well draws from and provide nutrients that help flora, fauna and wildlife thrive in addition to native ingredients for the brewery and kitchen. 32 / EdibleAustin.com
less.,” the brewery expresses its core value of inclusion, welcoming With that said, schedule a visit early this year! Pair the Mexican La-
During the COVID-19 pandemic, advance reservations are requested for the outdoor beer garden. Online ordering and curbside pickup are also available.
comfort food onsite, from gluten-free backyard pork ribs and
C.L. BUTAUD AND WINE FOR THE PEOPLE TASTING ROOM
Two beloved boutique Texas winemakers have joined together to offer a unique tasting experience just off of Fitzhugh Road at the former location of Argus Cidery. After meeting at the Slate Mill Wine Collective wine incubator in Fredericksburg, Wine for the People founder Rae Wilson and the co-founders of C.L. Butaud, Brooke and
cautiously
area. While you may have picked up a bottle of Wine for the People’s
optimistic and have big plans for the future. “If anything, it’s helped
Dandy Rosé or Grower Project Albariño at Central Market, or added
us to stay focused on our core values. We will always put our people
a bottle of C.L. Butaud’s ‘Pa Pa Frenchy red to your cheese order at
first,” said Nearburg. He’s put many precautions in place to make the
Antonelli’s, the new tasting room is an experiential must. Although
brewery as safe as possible for both his staff and customers. “If even one
Wilson and the Hesters have distinct winemaking styles, they share a
person on staff were to be affected and have reduced lung capacity
vision to cultivate education and promote a connection to Texas wines
… no amount of business or money would ever be worth that.” This
made from 100 percent Texas grapes. Make a reservation to try some of
focus on his team is one Nearburg takes pride in. He knows that a
the most inventive and delicious Texas wines — you can choose a flight
happy staff provides a happy customer experience — one that is
of C.L. Butaud wines, Wine for the People’s lineup, or a mix of both!
both
remain
Wagyu sirloin, and more.
clbutaud.com / wineforthepeople.com
opening,
Gutierrez
smokehouse nachos to a Hill Country dip sandwich made with Texas
12345 Pauls Valley Road, Austin, TX 78737
Randy Hester, made the decision to team up for an outpost in the Austin
and
Farmhouse Ale and Wee Scottish with malt-influenced flavors. Partner PEJ Kitchens (a Poke-e-Jo’s company) offers a variety of
Although COVID-19 has undoubtedly put a damper on Beerburg’s Nearburg
you’ll find brews such as a Sparkling Australian Ale, Lithuanian
authentic, one you can feel. For Gutierrez, COVID-19 has inspired him to innovate the menu. “It’s forced us to think more creatively. Early on, we put together to-go six packs, crowlers, ventured into making ice cream, and started focusing on to-go dishes that travel well.”
photo by FITZHUGH BREWING
EdibleAustin.com / 33
edible ESCAPES
12 FOX BEER CO.
Plan a visit to try their award-winning estate Ghost Hill Bourbon, which is made onsite in Dripping Springs with local heirloom grains
4700 W Fitzhugh Road, Dripping Springs 78620
from Barton Springs Mill. An authentic grain-to-glass bourbon, it is
12foxbeer.com
mashed, fermented, distilled, barreled and aged two years. A fan of
Former army combat engineers and friends Joe Hogge and Aaron Luelling bring their love of family, country and great beer to Dripping Springs. After being stationed in Bamberg, Germany, and enjoying the local craft beers there, they followed their passion for master-crafted European style beer. Venture into 12 Fox Beer Co. to see what’s rotating on their 12 taps of small-batch, single-sourced malt brews. Ask for the German Hefeweizen, a medium-bodied pale, fruity wheat ale, or the Bettie, a complex Belgian Dubbel on Oak with notes of clove, spice, caramel and whiskey. And if you’re craving something other than beer, try their mead or gluten-free cider.
gin? Ask for a Waterloo gin cocktail. And be sure to bring your appetite because you won’t want to pass by Alice’s Restaurant, which features barbeque and comfort food staples that are crafted to pair perfectly with whiskey. There’s plenty of space on their sprawling property to socially distance and spread out beneath the giant live oaks. If you’re missing the bar experience these days, take home a bottle of their premixed Old Fashioned, ready to pour over ice and enjoy at your Addison Grove photo by FEATHER & TWINE PHOTOGRAPHY
living room bar. Break out your vinyl and spin a record while you’re at it, and you can imagine the smoky and sultry ambiance of your favorite dive, all wrapped up in a bottle.
Treaty Oak photos by PATTY ROBERTSON
TREATY OAK DISTILLING 16604 Fitzhugh Road, Dripping Springs 78620 treatyoakdistilling.com Named after the famous 500-year-old tree in Austin, under which Stephen F. Austin signed agreements defining the borders of Texas, Treaty Oak Distilling values the rich history of the Texas Hill Country. While they may not be the newest addition to Fitzhugh Road, they remain true to the “Pursuit of the Curious” which adorns every bottle and means they are constantly refining their offerings — from their whiskey and gin production to craft cocktails to delicious Texas barbeque, and more.
Rae Wilson photo by WINE FOR THE PEOPLE
Founder and CEO Daniel Barnes grew up in West Texas and was inspired by his parents who owned a restaurant and motel. Treaty Oak originally opened in North Austin in 2006 as the fourth distillery operating in Texas, but Barnes moved to Dripping Springs, which he appreciated for its history of community gatherings, in 2016.
ONE SHOT DISTILLERY 31610 Ranch Road. 12, Dripping Springs 78620 oneshotdripping.square.site
In the spirit of this history, Barnes prioritizes community and
Look for the giant Texas flag painted on the side of a big red barn
partnerships, working with family-run Kelvin Cooperage in Kentucky
to find One Shot, a Veteran-owned distillery and brewery on Ranch
to supply American oak barrels that provide a toasty caramel profile
Road 12, just off the intersection at Fitzhugh Road. Retired U.S. Army
to his brews; Barton Springs Mill for locally sourced, non-GMO
Colonel Phil Waldron wanted to combine his passion for supporting
heirloom grains (James Brown and the Barton Springs Mill team
fellow veterans and first responders with his love of world class beer
have a mill, malting floor and bakery onsite); and nonprofit One Tree
and spirits. He’s on a mission to craft great products and support great
Planted to donate $1 for every dumped barrel that can no longer be
people, and is committed to using Texas Agricultural ingredients. One
used. Treaty Oak also facilitates partnerships with other Central Texas
Shot’s flagship brand is “Three Volley Vodka,” distilled three times and
nonprofits for its featured “Charity of the Month” program, where a
filtered seven times. Named after the three volleys of seven fired at
portion of proceeds each month are donated to a local cause.
memorial services for fallen heroes, it’s designed for toasting past and
Joe Hogge & Aaron Luelling by 12 FOX BEER CO.
present comrades. However, the selection doesn’t stop with vodka. They also offer rum and a dynamic mix of beer, from the Route Irish Red to Panzer IPA. Visit for mixed drinks, or place an order online to pick up growlers to-go. photo by DEL SOL YOGA & KUNG FU STUDIO
34 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 35
edible ESCAPES
edible ESCAPES
Other enticing options: Wine lovers, don’t miss these local
HAWK'S SHADOW WINERY
2530 W Fitzhugh Road, Dripping Springs 78620
7500 McGregor Lane, Dripping Springs 78620
Make a reservation to enjoy farm-to-table salads, sandwiches,
hawksshadow.com
and flatbreads at the Orchard Bistro, or make a quick stop by their
In search of a breathtaking Hill Country view? It doesn’t get better
Tuscan style tasting room to grab some of their award-winning locally
than the view at Hawk’s Shadow Winery with its hillside tasting
produced olive oils, balsamic vinegars and spreads.
AND
AROUND
Fitzhugh Row
texashillcountryoliveco.com
room. From bold reds to complex white wines to refreshing dry rosés,
THE ADDISON GROVE
family-owned Hawk’s Shadow offers a dynamic selection of varietals handcrafted with 100% Texas grapes. Don’t skip the HSV Estate Red,
11903 Fitzhugh Road, Austin 78736
a Rhône-style blend from their low-producing estate vines with notes
theaddisongrove.com & nativebloomfloral.com
of plum and chocolate, or one of their signature dry Orange Muscats for a tantalizing palate experience unlike any other in the region.
IN
TEXAS HILL COUNTRY OLIVE COMPANY
favorites just a few minutes off the main road!
With exposed wood beams and stunning chandeliers, this 6,000 square foot barn-style venue offers enchanting views of Texas
During the COVID-19 pandemic, advance reservations are requested.
wildlife, pasturelands and the sweeping Texas Hill Country. Guests can wander the expansive grounds or step out on the patio to enjoy large
SIDECAR TASTING ROOM BY BELL SPRINGS WINERY
Luxury Wedding and Event Venue
oak trees, Longhorns, wildflowers and more. And don’t miss the new
11903 Fitzhugh Road Austin, TX 78736 512.904.9656 events@theaddisongrove.com
floral design studio, Native Bloom, opening in January. P U R S U I T
O F
RAMBLING ROSE
501 Old Fitzhugh Road, Dripping Springs 78620 sidecartastingroom.com Take a slight detour to Old Fitzhugh for some prohibition-inspired ambiance at Sidecar Tasting Room, a special bar experience curated
E
X
U
S
RANCH
Ramblingroseranch.com
Distillery Tours & Tastings alice’s restaurant beer, wine & Cocktails live music
Visit this enchanting event space and working ranch. Catch a glimpse
red and white wines, take in the sounds of live piano (when safe to do
of horses, goats, chickens and more in this picture-perfect setting with
so), or try a specialty wine cocktail for something unique.
gardens, towering trees and rolling hills.
DEL SOL YOGA AND KUNG FU
C U R I O U S
A
1104 Fitzhugh Road, Austin 78736
by the owners of Bell Springs Winery. Order a flight combination of
Don’t forget to visit these other local picks for good times, great food
T H E T
16604 FITZHUGH ROAD, DRIPPING SPRINGS, TX —
Scan to book your tour
t r e at y o a k / Wat e r l o o g i n t x
Great Beer. Comfort Food. No Fuss. Pull up a seat, kick back & enjoy the Texas Hill Country.
15435 Fitzhugh Road Dripping Springs, TX 78620 info@fitzhughbrewing.com 512.648.0653
13118 Fitzhugh, Austin 78736
and stunning views in between tastings.
Delsolaustin.com
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of family recipes. They even have a splashpad and playscape if the kids
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convenient and delicious on-the-go meals and grocery items. Browse their many varieties of just-add-water meals, trail favorites and other food items perfect for outdoor enthusiasts of all types.
36 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 37
edible ESCAPES
RECIPES BY BEERBURG BREWING & RESTAURANT
Preheat the oven to 325°. Combine the salt and spices in a bowl and mix well. Set aside. Separate the point (fatty top) and the flat (lean) sections of brisket. Split each piece down the middle and then cut into steaks of about 6 x 6 inches. Score each brisket steak in a
FLOUR TORTILLAS
crosshatch pattern and then generously season each steak with the
Makes: 15-20
of the tallow to the skillet (canola oil can be substituted if necessary).
1 lb.
high-gluten flour
1 t.
kosher salt
8 fl. oz
water
seasoning. Heat a large cast iron skillet and add a tablespoon or two Sear each brisket steak in the tallow on both sides, adding more tallow if necessary. Place the brisket steaks in a large baking pan (2 may be necessary depending on the size of the brisket). Spread the green onions and lime slices
4 T. + 1 t rendered lard or canola oil (if using lard, melt first)
over the brisket and top with
In a bowl, sift the flour and salt together and set aside. In a sauce
the
pot, heat the water and lard or oil until hot but not boiling (about
and beef stock. Cover with
150°). When heated, add the water and lard/oil mixture to the bowl of
foil and roast in the oven for
a stand mixer. Add the flour and salt and mix on the lowest setting
about 2 hours. Remove from
with the dough hook attachment until a dough ball comes together.
the oven and let cool. Dice
Scrape any dough off the sides of the bowl and off the dough hook
the meat into small pieces.
and reincorporate. Mix with the dough hook on the second lowest
Worcestershire
Organics Plan Required Fill out your organics plan at AustinTexas.gov/bizorganics before February 1.
sauce
To serve: Heat a skillet and
setting for 5 more minutes. Remove the dough and let rest for a
add a teaspoon of the tallow.
minimum of 30 minutes. Use a bench cutter or a knife to cut the
Add the onions and peppers
dough into 30-35 gram pieces. Roll the cut pieces into balls and let
and cook until browned.
sit at room temperature for 30 more minutes. Roll out each ball with
Next, add some of the diced
a rolling pin until thin, about 1/ 16-of-an-inch thick. In a cast iron pan
brisket to the pan and heat
or a comal, cook thoroughly on both sides.
until the brisket is crispy. Photo by JULIET YZNAGA
Deglaze with the beer.
SUADERO STYLE BRISKET SALSA VERDE
Makes: 12-15 servings
3 T.
kosher salt
1 t.
black pepper
1 T.
ancho powder
1 T.
ground coriander
1 T.
ground comino
1 t.
cayenne
8-10 lb.
beef brisket
4 fl. oz
beef tallow
4
limes, sliced into rings
Makes: 1 quart
8
green jalapeños
2 c.
water
2 fl. oz.
lime juice
2
garlic cloves
½ bunch green onions 1 t.
Kosher salt
14-18 fl. oz. canola oil
4 bunches green onions, roughly chopped
In a medium sauce pot, bring the jalapeños and water to a boil and
2 c.
beef stock
then simmer until they are soft. Remove the jalapeños and place
1 c.
Worcestershire sauce
1
yellow onion, julienned
them in a blender with the lime juice, garlic, green onions and
2
green bell peppers, julienned
4 fl. oz.
Mexican-style lager
38 / EdibleAustin.com
salt. Purée until very smooth. With the blender still running, drizzle the oil into the purée until fully emulsified. You may not need all of
The City of Austin requires restaurants to reduce food waste going to the landfill and report how they meet the requirements every year. Restaurants can choose to limit food waste, donate food or compost.
the oil.
Learn more at AustinTexas.gov/bizorganics
EdibleAustin.com / 39
FARMERS diary
S
San
Two Fun Guys Grow Fungi ean
Henry
Nellissen Halloween José.
met
and
Cory
one
spooky
night Henry,
at dressed
Hotel as
a
fox, met an Olivia Newton John-themed Nellissen. “I was visiting town from New York and had to throw together a costume,” Nellissen recounted. “I found an Olivia Newton John record, and cut the eyes out to make a mask. I found the matching blue turtleneck sweater and the blonde wig. It was creepy.”
by ADA BROUSSARD / photography by RALPH & JULIET YZNAGA
S
ean Henry was introduced
they located a warehouse, nestled in a forest of warehouses, where Highway
to Cory Nellissen one
183 crosses Burnet Lane. There, Hi-Fi Mycology was officially born, giving
spooky Halloween night
Austinites their first access to an entire kingdom of mushroom magic.
at Hotel San José Henry, dressed as a fox, met an Olivia Newton John-themed Nellissen. “I was
Clearly, Nellissen made an impression on Henry; the two got along
visiting town from New York and
immediately. Nellissen eventually moved to Texas, and he connected
had to throw together a costume,”
with Henry. The two spent their spare time transforming Nellissen’s
Nellissen recounted. “I found
extra bedroom into a laboratory for pumping out healthy mycelium,
an Olivia Newton John record,
which they would then move to Henry’s garage where the mushrooms
and cut the eyes out to make a
would fruit. But almost as soon as the pair had outfitted the garage,
mask. I found the matching
they knew they’d need more space for their mushroom venture. In 2017,
blue turtleneck sweater and the blonde wig. It was creepy.” Clearly, Nellissen made an impression on Henry; the two got along immediately. Nellissen eventually moved to Texas, and he connected with Henry. The two spent their spare time transforming Nellissen’s extra bedroom into a laboratory for pumping out healthy mycelium, which they would then move to Henry’s garage where the mushrooms would fruit. But almost as soon as the pair had outfitted the garage, they knew they’d need more space for their mushroom venture. In 2017,
40 / EdibleAustin.com
Before feeding fungus for a living, Henry had a marked career in produce. When asked about his transition from lettuce greens to gourmet mushrooms, Henry said it was the late Tom Spicer, a renowned grower and pioneer in the farm-to-table movement in Texas, who introduced him to his first morel spot near Dallas. Interestingly, while Henry was finding morels in Texas, Nellissen was foraging in the Hudson Valley. Convergent evolution at its best, Henry went on to explain how his obsession with mushrooms and decision to start a mushroom operation came to be. “It kinda seeps into your brain and spreads incessantly. It had been almost two years since I had been involved in something, so it was an easy match.” Nellissen, who was previously a chef and baker in New York City, is the keeper of the mycelium. His role at Hi-Fi is to think like a mushroom. He is soft spoken and has kind eyes that smile at you over his mask. Nellissen leads the tour of Hi-Fi’s fungi factory, which is divided into two main sections. The first section is where Nellissen grows massive amounts of mycelium, or the body and feeding structure of the mushrooms.
EdibleAustin.com / 41
FARMERS diary
Hi-Fi grows around 15 different varieties... and each stretches out of its bag in an awe-inspiring mass.
The room, illuminated by LED lights overhead, is densely organized
from lumber mills. In the natural world, massive amounts of mycelium live
with metal shelves lined with bulging plastic bags. At first glance, the
in the soil and in decomposing trees. Mushrooms, responding to oxygen and
bags don’t look like much, but there is actually a lot happening inside.
humidity levels (among other things), poke their heads out and fruit into the
Within the bags are the beginnings of thousands of pounds of culinary
bits we think of as mushrooms. At Hi-Fi, mushrooms emerge from small slits
and medicinal mushrooms that are neither plant nor animal, that break
made into the plastic bags, “a poor, but reliable excuse for bark,” as Nellissen
down nutrients using enzymes, that take in oxygen, release carbon
describes them. After harvest, the substrate blocks (what’s left in the plastic
dioxide, and that are almost too weird to be true.
bags) make incredible soil amendments for the garden. Mushrooms are nature’s
Nellissen shows me three small racks of viles, each containing cultures of a unique mushroom strain, and explains the colonization process: to keep
composters, and Henry and Nellissen have created the perfect urban environment for this closed-loop system to thrive.
mushrooms as fresh as possible, he selects the oldest of his young master
Each rack of substrate bags is organized by mushroom type and the date
cultures and puts those into sterilized petri dishes where they multiply by
it was inoculated with spores. The contents of the youngest bags are dark
sending out spores to create mycelium. From there, the multiplied cultures
brown like wet sawdust, but if you zoom in, you can see where spores are
get moved into a small jar filled with sterilized wheat pellets. Nellissen
“leaping off” and the mycelium is branching out. We find one bag among
picks up a spawn jar with insides that are nearly all white. It resembles a
many with some bacterial contamination. It’s green and soupy. Like any
kitchen experiment gone awry, but Nellissen and Henry assure me it’s
seasoned farmer, Nellissen isn’t too distressed at this bit of crop failure as
a good thing. From there, the growing mycelium is transferred to its home
he inspects the bag. Luckily, there are still hundreds of blocks of white, dense
for the next few weeks—the plastic bags I mentioned, which are filled with
and web-like mycelium to work with.
sterilized substrate, or mushroom food. At Hi-Fi, the food is a mixture of agricultural waste including wheat nibs, soybean bulbs and pelleted sawdust
42 / EdibleAustin.com
FARMERS diary
“I collect people who have changed their minds about liking mushrooms.” — SEAN HENRY
Henry explains that mushrooms require a level of innovation that is
rack of perfect piopinos that look like they sound, and are small
being developed now, as we speak. “Kind of like tech,” he says. “It’s
enough to sauté whole and pile on garlic toast. There are slender enoki
farming and manufacturing and technology.” The fruiting rooms,
mushrooms, common in East Asian cooking, that look like something
where the mushrooms go after they’re taken out of the bags, are
from under the sea, and there are ganoderma, or reishi mushrooms,
essentially humidified greenhouses nestled in the Hi-Fi warehouse.
that resemble glowing stalagmites emerging from a cave floor.
They are modeled after greenhouses from Henry’s lettuce-peddling days. Before teaming up with Nellissen, Henry helped start a successful hydroponic lettuce farm, and this technology-forward, systems-driven style of production has helped him in the mushroom farming business. Both must operate for maximum efficiency per square foot of indoor space, and both have options to grow their crops vertically. The fruiting rooms at Hi-Fi Mycology are magical. Hi-Fi grows around 15 different varieties of these “spore-shooters,” as Nellissen calls them, and each stretches out of its bag in an awe-inspiring mass. There are two varieties of oyster mushrooms—pink and blue—that immediately catch my eye. They look like installation art, with velvety curves and gradient shadows in dusty hues of pink, grey and soft blue. Some of the oysters are spawned from a strain of mushroom Henry foraged himself, perfect for the Texas climate and a bowl of risotto. There are
The colorful shapes and textures in the Hi-Fi fruiting room look nothing like the plastic-wrapped grey mushrooms available at most grocery stores, and it’s truly amazing how vast this kingdom of ingredients is. Henry agrees, “I collect people who have changed their minds about liking mushrooms … they’ve just never had a good mushroom before. You just need to learn where they go on your plate. There is definitely a place for fungi.” Like the mushroom mavericks they are, Henry and Nellissen were able to quickly pivot their distribution model when the pandemic hit. Previously, a large portion of their mushroom dealings were with local restaurants. Now, they are growing over 1,000 pounds of mushrooms a week directly for Austin’s mushroom-loving community. In addition to the fresh mushrooms, Hi-Fi produces mushroom powders and tinctures as well as Grow-At-Home kits.
other culinary delights with names like king trumpet, black pearl,
Want to connect with these fun guys? You can order mushrooms through
and my new favorite, chestnut, which transition from small and dark
the Hi-Fi website and schedule a pickup at their warehouse. You can also
into chestnut-colored toadstools with textured caps and smooth,
find Hi-Fi mushrooms at one of the eight local farmers markets they attend.
creamy stems. The racks of lion’s mane look like a summer thunderhead.
Or, for a home delivery option, you can order through Farmhouse Delivery
They are blindingly white and seem to billow out. When cooked, they
or Farm to Table.
are tender, delicate and stringy … not unlike crab meat. There is a 44 / EdibleAustin.com
Contemporary Italian, focused on using “whole� local ingredients
Specialty chocolates & coffee
Happy Hour, Dinner, Late Night Dining and Sunday Brunch
Vegetarian & gluten-free friendly
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Private dining room available
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