Edible Austin November December 2022

Celebrating the very best of Central Texas food culture

As we head into the end of the year and our holiday season, we want to thank all of you for your support over the past year — whether you picked up a copy of Edible Austin to read, followed us on Instagram, read our e-newsletters or used our website — your interest in the stories and content we share is what makes our publication a meaningful contribution to our community. We also want to thank our advertisers, as their support is what provides us with the ability to help share the stories of local restaurants, farmers and businesses of Austin and the surrounding Hill Country.

In this issue, our Farmers Diary feature gives you a glimpse into the life of a goat farmer and how Goatilicious owners Claudia and Robert Ragels relocated their family, along with their dogs and goats, from Arizona to 15 acres in New Braunfels with a plan to enjoy early retirement. But as word got around about their cheese and milk, they suddenly found their products in high demand and decided to become a full-fledged Grade-A certified dairy. Today they have around 150 goats and they produce goat milk, cheese and soaps that they sell at local farmers markets.

For more than 50 years, Fonda San Miguel has been an iconic Austin restaurant, thanks to the direction and talent of a single chef, Miguel Ravago, who was responsible for their excellent menu creations. When Ravago passed away of lung cancer in 2017, the head chef position remained empty for years until Ravago’s co-founder and Fonda San Miguel owner Tom Gilliland decided to attempt to fill Ravago’s shoes by hiring not one, but two chefs. Carlos Monroy and Blanca Zesati were brought on to work together as co-chefs, as both brought different backgrounds and skillsets to the Fonda table. Read how they work together in an effort to preserve, and also build upon, Ravago’s legacy and continue to keep Fonda San Miguel at the top of the list for Mexican food in Austin.

Each year in this issue we also include a Holiday Gift Guide to provide our readers with some great ideas for holiday gifts. This year’s guide features interesting and innovative products from local businesses that are sure to please anyone in your family. A special section also highlights vendors who are selling their wares at the Armadillo Christmas Bazaar, which we are so happy to share is finally back in full swing this year! We hope you find the perfect gift you are looking for, and we appreciate you supporting local businesses when you shop in person or online.

As always, there are some great seasonal recipes within these pages, especially for the upcoming holidays, including a hearty soup made with a lesser-known root vegetable, the sunchoke; a delicious and beautiful cocoa pecan orange blossom bread; and a simple shortbread recipe that is fun to make with kids. We hope you like them!

Enjoy the holidays with your family and friends, and best wishes to you all for the upcoming year!

Craig’s Cutie Pies

Just in time for the upcoming holidays, we were fortunate to try a sampling of Craig’s Cutie Pies. These delicious pies are made from scratch upon order with quality ingredients, have no preservatives and range in size from 5-inch tarts to 3-inch mini-pies. The master behind the pies, Craig Anderson, is a former advertising agency executive who transitioned from creating ads to creating pies, having a lifelong passion for baking that was inspired by his mother while he was growing up. Craig’s flavors include Pucker Up (key lime), Coconut Breeze, Mom’s Chocolate Pie, The Salted Caramel, Cherry-Go-Round, Peanut Butter Kisses and several others — there are even some vegan options. We had a hard time deciding which one we liked best, because they were all so good, but Peanut Butter Kisses was at the top of the list. To read more about Anderson or place an order for pies, visit his website. craigscutiepies.com

Goodspread Skin Hydrators

We were recently introduced to a new line of skincare products designed to hydrate your skin. Rather than focusing on specific body parts like traditional lotions and moisturizers, Goodspread products come in three different levels of hydration — light, medium and heavy — that you can apply anywhere on your body at whatever level you feel you need. Founded by Austinite Felipe Correa, an active rower and outdoor enthusiast who also happens to suffer from eczema, Goodspread hydrators are made with clean ingredients, have no added fragrance and are cruelty free and 100 percent vegan. Packaged in BPA-free, recyclable packaging, these products are not only good for your body, they are also environmentally conscious. You can visit their website to learn more or order Goodspread products. goodspreadskincare.com

Wildflower Caramel Company

If you are a fan of soft, chewy caramels, you will want to try some of the tasty treats made by Wildflower Caramel Company. Handmade by a woman-owned and family-run company in San Antonio with organic, local and fair trade ingredients, these caramels come in a variety of flavors such as salted caramel, maple whiskey, dark chocolate and sea salt, peanut butter and honey, and cereal and milk caramel. We sampled several of them and loved them all, but our favorite was the simple salted caramel because of its sweet and savory combination. Pick up a package of them at your local Whole Foods, or order online. wildflowersa.com

INDUSTRY OPENS NEW CONCEPT IN EAST AUSTIN

Now open in East Austin is Industry, a restaurant paying tribute to service industry culture. Industry was started by Cody Taylor and Harlan Scott, who met while waiting tables in college. Now, they are giving back to the industry with their own concept restaurant, which seeks to build a casual community around their all-day menu of “low key healthy” Texas fare.

Everything on Industry’s menu, from their tacos and burgers to hearty salads and house-smoked meats, is made 100 percent from scratch. These dishes are served through a counter-service model, which redirects

server resources to running food and checking-in on diners. Taylor and Scott emphasize that their business philosophy is “employee first, customer second,” which they believe fosters an overall pro-customer experience. With expanded employee benefits, discounts for service industry workers and built-in service fees to support tip-share, Industry seeks to take care of its employees who in turn take care of customers with genuine enthusiasm.

To support Industry’s model and try their healthy and casual food for yourself, visit 1211E. 5th St., Ste 150. For more information on menu options, visit eastside.industrytx.com.

AHHAN LAO KITCHEN OFFERS

AUTHENTIC LAOTIAN FOOD

Austinites in search of quality Asian takeout do not need to look further with the opening of Ahhan Lao Kitchen in the North Loop neighborhood. Ahhan Lao operates out of the 5610 Food Co. ghost kitchen, which includes several private commercial kitchen spaces optimized for delivery and takeout. Ahhan Lao Kitchen was started by Chef Bambu, who wanted to break through the modern and Westernized Laos-style restaurants in America by delivering authentic Laotian food.

Ahhan Lao’s menu features several Laotian dishes, ranging from popular meals in Laos to event cuisine. This includes sai oua (pork sausage), kua mee (a fried soy noodle dish with scallions, eggs, and meat) and seen savan (beef jerky). On Fridays and Saturdays, they offer a special of sakoo yat sai (pork tapioca dumplings). Their menu is also complete with other pan-Asian dishes including pad thai, orange chicken and dumplings. For a traditional dessert, Austin diners can sample their khao la song (a sweet coconut milk with green pandan flavored gems). Ahhan Lao Kitchen also allows their customers to specify the spiciness of their dish, stressing the availability of very spicy and authentic Laotian serving sizes.

To order from Ahhan Lao, visit 5610foodco.com and pick up at 5610 N. Interstate Hwy. 35.

LULU’S BRINGS MEXICO CITY TO AUSTIN

New in Manchaca’s bar district is Lulu’s, a bar that promises to bring a taste of Mexico to Austin. Inspired by the aesthetic of cafes and bars in Mexico City, Lulu’s is a new go-to for an authentic night out. Their drink menu is complete with classic Mexican cocktails, like palomas, as well as a range of aguas

frescas. These aguas frescas can be served with or without a liquor of the customer’s choosing for a fresh and fruit-forward social experience.

Lulu’s is a family project, started by Lourdes Garcia and her daughter Maritza Gonzales. Garcia grew up in Mexico City and later immigrated to the South Austin area, where she raised Gonzales. The bar takes influences from their shared family history, with one foot in the culture of each city. Gonzales designed the space with sleek tiling and earthy tones, which are complemented by plants native to both Texas and Mexico. According to mother-daughter pair, the bar will also offer live music acts in the coming months.

Visit Lulu’s in the Stinson Yard development at 10402 Manchaca Rd., Ste. 3. Follow their Instagram, @lulus.austin, for updates.

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SECOND BAR + KITCHEN OPENS NEW LOCATION IN EAST AUSTIN HOTEL

The beloved Downtown Austin restaurant Second Bar + Kitchen is opening another location taking over a new space in the East Austin Hotel. With a menu driven by seasonal and locally sourced ingredients, Second Bar + Kitchen offers a curated dining experience unique to Central Texas. The new location resides within a mid-century modern boutique space and offers the opportunity to dine in the restaurant, on the rooftop or poolside in the hotel’s courtyard.

“Our guests will recognize that the food and service at this location is authen tic to our original location,” said co-founder Chef David Bull. “I’m very excited to help bring Second Bar + Kitchen back to downtown Austin.”

The East End location offers an updated atmosphere, but holds true to the Modern American menu that made Second Bar + Kitchen a favorite. This includes the Congress Burger with brisket, onion and Swiss; the Black + Bleu pizza with black truffle, bleu cheese and pork belly; and the Truffle Pomme Frites. Guests can pair these shareable plates with drinks from the restaurant’s full bar, including craft cocktails, beer and wine.

Swing by their new location at 1108 E. 6th St. or visit secondbarkitchen.com to learn more.

SIMPLY RAMEN AND GYOZA OPENS IN TOWN OF BEE CAVE

Now open in Bee Cave is Simply Ramen and Gyoza , a new ramen concept from the owners of Simply Pho. This fast-casual spot is perfect for dine-in or take-out, and features a variety of ramen dishes, Vietnamese cuisine and other Asian-fusion favorites. Menu highlights include the gyoza (Japanese fried dumplings), karaage (Japanese fried chicken) and chashu pork.

Simply Ramen and Gyoza is designed as an accessible and family-friendly option to sample a variety of Asian dishes. Their staff is trained to explain the menu in full detail and offer personalized recommendations.

And, lucky customers may even have the opportunity to chat with the owner over lunch or dinner.

To try their custom ramen or extra-crispy gyoza, visit Simply Ramen and Gyoza at 12918 Shops Pkwy, Ste. 300 in the Shops at the Galleria or online at simplyramenhouse.com.

READERS AND WINE LOVERS HAVE A NEW HOME AT VINTAGE BOOKSTORE

Avid readers and wine lovers can now find their niche at Vintage Bookstore & Wine Bar, the first independent bookstore and wine bar of its kind in Austin. Merging reading and drinking culture in Central East Austin,

Vintage offers the perfect place to host a boozy book club or unwind with a glass of wine and a good read.

Vintage was started by Jean Elizabeth Buckner, a book and wine connoisseur who loves concocting custom book and wine pairings. Buckner encourages customers to explore Vintage’s extensive wine list as they browse the bookshelves. This includes products from local Hill Country wineries as well as a selection of national and international wines by the glass. In addition to wine, they offer local beer by the can, coffee, tapped cold brew and various teas. Their menu also includes baked goods and “grazing boxes” complete with cheese, fruits and charcuterie from Cultured ATX.

Vintage’s location is complete with bar seating, bookshelves, tufted sofas and a small stage. There, Buckner plans to host author discussions, live music and trivia events for the community.

To experience Vintage Bookstore's blend of literary and wine culture, stop in and visit them at 1101 E. 11th Street.

To learn more or book a reservation for a private book club meeting, visit vintagebooksandwine.com.

PROUD MARY COFFEE OPENS ON SOUTH LAMAR

Now open on South Lamar is Proud Mary Coffee , an Australian cafe that has Austinites saying “howdy mate” and “g’day partner.” Proud Mary expanded to Austin from its flagship location in Portland, where they built a reputation for offering authentic Australian fare in a casual setting. Now, they are serving up the same world-class coffees in a city with weather much like the birthplace of their cafe culture.

Proud Mary’s in-house kitchen offers toast with vegemite, ricotta hotcakes, barbeque prawns and smoked salmon pate. They also serve a variety of coffees from around the world, which customers can purchase as whole beans to grind and brew at home. And, true

to Australian cafe culture, they also have a selection of teas and brewing accoutrements. Whether it is your first experience with Australian cuisine or you are a keen and seasoned diner, their doors are open. Visit Proud Mary at 2043 S. Lamar Blvd. For more information and to place online orders, check out proudmarycoffee.com.

TINY DINER OFFERS JAPANESE COMFORT FOOD IN EAST AUSTIN

Tiny Diner, a new casual Japanese comfort food restaurant, is now open in East Austin. The counter-service restaurant operates within Native Bar and Cafe, alongside the coffee shop Idlewild. Tiny Diner’s daytime menu provides the perfect complement to the space, with Japanese street-food like egg sandwiches and okonomiyaki (a savory pancake-like dish).

Left Page Top: Proud Mary

Left Page Bottom: Tiny Diner

Left & Bottom:

Vintage Bookstore & Wine Bar

Top: Simply Ramen & Gyoza

Right Top & Middle: Tiny Diner

All photos by featured venues

Tiny Diner is fronted by Chef Domonic Candy, who has a longheld appreciation of the care that goes into Japanese cuisine. After honing his craft at Austin favorites like Odd Duck, Daruma Ramen, Micklethwait Craft Meats, Dee Dee, Otoko and Olamaie, Candy pivoted to specialize in Japanese comfort food. After hours, Candy passes the baton to up-and-coming local chefs, who take over the space for their own pop-ups.

Visit Tiny Diner at 807 E. 4th St. inside Native, a former hostel that now hosts several local businesses and hospitality events. To learn more, follow them on Instagram @tinydineratx.

MATT'S EL RANCHO

In the Local Legends series, we shine the spotlight on a restaurant that’s been serving the community for more than three decades. These iconic spots have become part of the fabric of our shared culture, with multiple generations of Central Texans able to fondly reflect upon memories made at these beloved eateries. In a rapidly growing and changing region, they’ve stood the test of time. Yet, they still need our support so that they can be enjoyed by future generations. It’s time to rediscover the restaurants that keep our communities authentic, vibrant and resilient.

In 1923, a six-year-old Matt Martinez began what would become a long career and family tradition of feeding the community by selling tamales from his father’s restaurant, “El Original,” out of a wooden pushcart near the grounds of the Texas State Capitol. Nearly thirty years later, in 1952, Matt and his wife Janie opened El Rancho on First Street with no other employees and just a few tables. Matt greeted people at the door while Janie cooked everything from scratch in the kitchen. In the 1980s, the Martinez’s sold the property and moved the restaurant to its current South Lamar location, which increased capacity to seat about 500 customers. Matt, the charismatic boxing champion that he was, continued to greet customers like family at the front door, embedding the welcoming culture that has no doubt helped the restaurant earn the “Famous” in Matt’s Famous El Rancho.

Today, as the restaurant celebrates a whopping 70 years in business, Matt’s El Rancho is still family-owned and operated.

Matt and Janie’s daughters, Gloria, Cecilia and Cathy, and daughter-in-law, Estella, are co-owners.

At Matt’s El Rancho, the staff are part of the family, too — all working together to keep the welcoming culture alive and help generations of Austinites create great memories with great food. “We have a dedicated staff with a combined

one thousand years of service at El Rancho. Many of our team members have been with us for ten, twenty, thirty years!” says general man ager Paul Counter. “You just won’t find that at other restaurants.”

Would our city be what it is today without

search page, and you’ll find seemingly countless stories and best-of lists directing you where to find the most delicious tacos, most refreshing margarita, perfect bowl of queso and more.

No surprise, Matt’s El Rancho’s Asadero tacos, Bob Armstrong Dip (aka “the Bob”), and fresh lime juice margaritas top many of those lists.

70 years after opening, Matt’s El Rancho is still topping our lists of favorite restaurants. And while many others have opened their doors and it’s always nice to try something new, we also love to return to our roots and to where Austin’s unmatched love of Tex-Mex was nurtured.

Making memories is also what motivates the team to keep serving up the food and atmosphere we appreciate and look toward the next 70 years. “When people come to Matt’s, it’s like coming home. So many special occasions have been celebrated here and it’s helping to create these memories that motivates us,” says Counter. “The Martinez family is dedicated to helping Texans create more special memories for many years to come!”

Matt’s El Rancho is a refuge, an essential piece of old Austin that doesn’t feel old, just familiar. It’s here to satisfy our cravings and remind us why people travel long distances to our hometown for tacos and queso. It’s here to remind us that Austin is all about treating everyone like family. It’s a place with a wealth of stories to tell and plenty more left to write.

(storied to be a favorite of President Lyndon B. Johnson) or Mexican seafood dishes such as Shrimp a la Matt Martinez (grilled jumbo Gulf Coast shrimp served with two bean and two cheese flautas with Ranchero sauce and guacamole salad).

Want to try a little bit of a lot? Opt for a Tex-Mex dinner combo plate!

If you happen to save any room for dessert, or even if you’re stuffed, finish with some warm sopapillas.

Matt’s El Rancho? It’s difficult for me to imagine what an Austin without the Martinez family’s contributions would look like.

We’re a town known the world over for our Tex-Mex food and passion for queso and margaritas. And I’d argue that Matt’s El Rancho has played no insignificant role in shaping that identity. It’s called “famous,” but maybe it’s part of what made Austin famous.

Talk to a neighbor, and they will likely have an opinion on their favorite local Tex-Mex dish. I’ve found that Matt’s is likely to come up in conversation. Spend just seconds on a Google

Why do we love Matt’s so much? Beyond the welcoming atmosphere, it’s the dedication to quality and favorite dishes we can count on time and again. All entrees are still made 100 percent from scratch using fresh, high-quality ingredients like certified angus beef and lime juice squeezed daily. Restaurant staff even grind non-GMO corn each morning to make their corn tortillas in house.

It’s also the memories that bring us back. It seems like almost everyone in the city has a Matt’s El Rancho connection or story to share.

It might be a celebratory dinner with loved ones or lunch with an old friend, or a happy hour where everyone unashamedly filled up on Bob Armstrong Dip. In a city that’s rapidly growing and changing, where so many restaurants come and go, those shared memories are a powerful, unifying thing.

Whether you’re a regular and know your order by heart, haven’t been back in a few years or just moved to Austin and want to experience authentic vibes and darn good Tex-Mex, pull up a seat to support this local, independent, family-owned business.

“Support all local independent businesses!” That’s how, in Counter’s words, we can “keep Austin … Austin.”

ORDER UP

For starters, ask for the Bob Armstrong Dip (queso with seasoned ground beef and guacamole) and pair with a margarita — they use 100 percent lime juice, squeezed fresh every day. These items may seem like staples on any Austin menu now, but they are Matt's El Rancho’s originals.

For mains, you can’t go wrong with the Asadero Tacos (beef tenderloin tacos with grilled asadero cheese, onions and Rajas in scratch-made corn tortillas), chile rellenos

Visit and re-visit to join the Martinez family in making memories at 2613 S. Lamar Blvd.

Top Left: Matt's El Rancho owners (l-r) Gloria Reyna, Cathy Martinez Kreitz, Cecilia Muela, and Estella Martinez (photo by Matt's El Rancho)

Right: Head Chef Jose Angel Rico Hernandez

Bottom Right: Matt Martinez (photo by Matt's El Rancho)

WORDS BY STACEY INGRAM KALEH • PHOTOS BY RALPH YZNAGA

CHAPARRAL CROSSING FARMERS' MARKET

If you don't like what you see, take a stand; that’s what Nancy Helton did.

Although Helton had no prior experience launching such an endeavor, that didn’t frighten her. What did frighten her was the lack of food resources around her. “Our area is a food desert with little food access, and most people do their shopping at the Dollar Store and local gas station,” says Helton. “This is why I was determined to find a way to bring fresh produce to my community.”

First, Helton started researching Austin farmers market laws and finding local farmers who wanted to give back to the surrounding community. With their help, she hopped on social media and started searching for vendors and connecting with other farmers market enthusiasts. That's how we met, in fact. “Wow, I didn't realize the power of social media. I've met some incredible people and found vendors close by who wanted to be a part of the market,” says Helton.

The first Chaparral Crossing Farmers' Market opened on a Sunday spring morning on April 3 with 17 vendors at the Charlie Dobbin’s Park, which is named after long-time resident and “mascot of the neighborhood.”

When I was there, Katie Kraemer from Tecolote Farm rode in on a horse to say hello.

“I am so happy how the community has come out to support their market,” says Helton.

“The market continues to grow. Thanks to Dancing Bear Farm, we have fresh produce. We also have fresh eggs, meat, and a playground

space for the kids to play.”

The first week of November will be the eighth market, and Helton says it’s been growing since the first. They now have about 25 vendors each month, and there are a handful of dedicated vendors that shoppers have come to rely on such as Sweet Tooth ATX, D'Vyne Organics, Nico's Nitro Cold Brew Coffee

first Sunday of the month to see what this community has to offer.

Chaparral Crossing Farmers Market

4600 Senda Lane

First Sunday of the month

10 a.m.–1 p.m.

25 + Vendors and Food Trucks

Located in the Chaparral Crossing Subdivision at the Charlie Dobbin's Park

Instagram: @chaparralcrossingmarket

Facebook: Chaparral Crossing

Find Yolanda Nagy on IG: @eatin_sippin_locally and on Facebook: Eatin' and Sippin' Locally.

and Nanny Goat Salsa, Helton says. Before I left my tour of the market, I had one last question to ask Helton: What does it take to start a farmers market in a community? “A purpose, a mission, knowledge of social media and the belief that you can make a difference in your neighborhood,” says Helton.

So grab the family and take a trip to the Chaparral Crossing Farmers’ Market on the

WORDS BY YOLANDA NAGY • PHOTOS BY NANCY HELTON

When yo u’re passionate about something, all roads lead there. I can’t get away from it,” says Trisha Bates, founder of Urban American Farmer and the Field Guide Festival. She’s explaining what drives her pursuit of the unsung hero of the culinary world: growing your own food.

When she came to Austin eight years ago from Montreal, Bates was on the business side of the restaurant industry. But, she quickly noticed the need to get locally sourced produce

American Farmer, she helps clients plan and design their garden according to the season and their location. It's a forward-thinking idea that uses the outdoor space that’s already available and incorporates edible plants into that design.

Food sourcing is the act of looking for ingredients that are sustainably farmed, and moving from big box stores to local suppliers. “Buying local vs. in a chain store, you get a whole other experience. There is no biodiversity, nothing is complex or interesting,” says Bates. “And that’s not what it (produce) is supposed to taste or look like.”

in-season ingredients from area farms.

“We want to reach more people, more quickly. By bringing the farmer to the city, and meeting them in person, we can put a face with the name and create more connection,” says Bates of the festival. This connection, she hopes, will be the stitch to mend the tear in the fabric of the unhealthy American diet, and the threats of climate change and the decline in urban farming.

While Bates knows we can look back to what we did before, she knows that we live in a different climate now — both environmentally and culturally. That’s why she’s made it a priority to involve the next generation in her projects, which includes her kids.

URBAN LEGEND

URBAN LEGEND

onto the plates at local restaurants. She began volunteering at farmers markets, getting to know the farmers on a more intimate level and started to build relationships to cultivate more than just food. A year into her Austin experience, she built her own quarter-acre backyard garden using her grandfather’s restored 1975 tiller to prepare the earth for a much needed transformation.

As her produce grew, so did her new business and she started to deliver everything she grew to her new clients. Eventually, she outgrew her home garden and rented a space at Rain Lily. There, she began facilitating a 12-week gardening experience where she taught (and continues to teach online) everything you need to know about establishing your own garden at home or at a restaurant. “The Kitchen Garden Workshop started because we wanted to cultivate active participants in our local food system,” she says. “I’m passionate about educating and want everyone to have the basic skills for growing their own food.”

Then came the idea for Urban American Farmer — which combines everything Bates loves about gardening (foodscaping, education and farm sourcing) with the newfound community she had discovered. At Urban

When the COVID-19 pandemic hit the globe in 2020, Bate’s educational offerings really amped up. “More people were participating because they were stuck at home, and were looking for ways to have food options without having to worry about going to the store or dealing with food shortages,” she says. Unfortunately, however, she’s seen people transition back into their pre-pandemic lives and buying food from big box stores and fast food chains. That hasn’t stopped her, though, and she recently launched a new project in order to continue to “cultivate passionate participants of our local food systems.”

That new project is a form of pollination as she calls it — “I go between the farmers, chefs and community to bring information back and forth. My intent has become less about growing and selling, and more about conversations about what we can do to serve the community.”

This new intention is what sparked the idea for the Field Guide Festival, an annual gathering in its second year that is growing into a feast of knowledge for those hungry to grow and source their own food. Through various events, the day-long festival presents the vast knowledge of local chefs, farmers, foragers, beekeepers, ranchers, mycologists and mixologists through cooking demonstrations, presentations and conversations, freshly prepared food from local chefs and farmers. There is also a farmers market that day, as well as wine and spirits tastings, and like any good festival in Austin, live music. Throughout the year, too, the Field Guide Festival organizers also host several specialty dinners, featuring the creative work of chefs and the farmers growing the food where they collaborate on dishes using

The Urban American Farmer has deep roots in the midwest, where Bates herself grew up on her grandparent’s farm. “I’m driven by the memories, joy and experiences of growing food as a family,” she reminisces. “I remember my grandfather planting corn, then our family would harvest and process it together. Picking cherry tomatoes with my grandmother, eating every other one, and wiping the juice from my hands and face on her dress. My bare feet on the fluffy midwest soil. So much pleasure and community in these experiences.”

She’s raising her children much the same way, but wants them to feel invited to participate in the gardening experience, rather than forcing it on them. That way, “they take more ownership and have more appreciation for the things they grow. They love to taste everything from the garden,” she says. In daily life, it's become routine for Bates and her kids to ceremoniously eat the first fruit of every plant they cultivate. She has taught them, through example, the sweet taste of successfully growing your own food.

As the climates around farming and gardening continue to change, Bates continues to look ahead and respond to her environment with the knowledge and awareness of what plants need to thrive in each new season. Through her ever-evolving endeavors, she continues to forge the path for future growers and embraces her tagline wish gusto: Growing a garden is an act of rebellion against the ease of convenient and fast food.

Trisha Bates is Leading an Urban Farming Revolution

WORDS BY MARY LANCASTER • PHOTOS BY BRENDAN CARROLL

FONDA SAN MIGUEL

WORDS BY NATHAN MATISSE

As much as Austin has changed in the last 50 years, one thing has remained constant. The most beloved and authentic Mexican cuisine in town — heck, maybe even in the state or the country — comes from iconic North Loop staple, Fonda San Miguel. And for nearly the entirety of this legendary restaurant’s existence, only one chef has presided over its consistently excellent menu of regional fare. Chef and co-founder Miguel Ravago has made such a mark on the Austin food scene that when he died of lung cancer in 2017, the chef position at Fonda San Miguel remained empty for years.

Nearly five years later, Ravago’s co-founder and Fonda San Miguel owner Tom Gilliland finally determined it was time to name the second-ever chef to lead the kitchen. And given how much of culinary giant Ravago was, perhaps it’s no surprise Gilliland ultimately turned to two chefs.

Carlos Monroy and Blanca Zesati joined the Fonda San Miguel staff in December 2021, and Gilliland publicly announced the duo as co-chefs in May 2022. This spring, Monroy, Zesati and Gilliland all traveled down to Mexico to study and collaborate with renowned chefs in Oaxaca and Merida. The goal was simple: Ensure Fonda San Miguel maintains the Mexican spirit, classic traditions and restaurant culture it’s become known for.

“We have a big responsibility,” Monroy says. “We don’t want people to say, 'Oh no, Fonda has changed. It’s not what I remember.’ Things are working here, and we don’t need to fix it.”

There’s a clear intent behind the partnership between Monroy and Zesati. Monroy brings immense knowledge of authentic Mexican cuisine. He was born and raised in Mexico City, and he earned a bachelor’s degree in gastronomy in the country while focusing on traditional foods. At one point, he even served as an executive chef of a catering company for visiting stars (Paul McCartney-level stars), meaning Monroy became very comfortable catering classic Mexican flavors to specific tastes. “Every time I got a rider (artist requirement), I had to read the dietary restrictions and what they wanted. Then I’d play with Mexican food to make a menu based on their needs,” he says. “So I have knowledge of how to make a twist on classic Mexican food.” Complementing this, Zesati is a technical whiz with great knife skills and specific expertise in developing plant-based meals. She

previously worked at the Miraval Austin Resort & Spa when they were first creating their wellness-focused menu, and Zesati took about a year to immerse herself in and experiment with plant-based foods, various dietary restrictions and allergen needs. “We planned our menu so everyone could come in and have something that isn’t boring, your average portobello mushroom kinda thing," she says. "So when I interviewed with Tom [Gilliland], I let him know that and he was interested in putting in a plant-based menu here. It’s something they never had before, but a lot of guests were coming in and asking for it.”

Before even reaching their one-year anniversary Monroy and Zesati have already left their mark on Fonda San Miguel. Given the restaurant’s accolades, there was no reason to overhaul the menu. Rather, the duo added eight dishes in a new section titled De La Tierra (From the Earth).

For the first time, Fonda now offers a regular array of plantbased dishes that are all vegan and gluten-/dairy-free. Here, customers still see familiar, beloved Mexican dishes like aguachile (a shrimp ceviche marinated in a liquid of chilies, lime, and vegetables) or Chile relleno (pepper stuffed with meat and cheese then dipped in egg), but they’ve been completely and subtly reimagined. Cauliflower serves as the star instead of shrimp for this aguachile; lentils and plantains take center stage in the Chile relleno.

Monroy and Zesati initially came up with 15 to 20 ideas like this before editing down the new menu section with Gilliland. Those additional dish ideas now rotate in among specials. (Zesati cites her vegan queso in particular as the one recipe she loves and guards like a family secret).

As an example of how committed Monroy and Zesati were to merging the new and the classic with these, they even created the De La Tierra dishes while adhering as strictly as possible to the authentic Mexican

cuisine ethos established at Fonda San Miguel. “We try and make sure we never add anything on the menu that isn’t Mexican, a dish that uses ingredients that can’t be grown in Mexico,” Zesati says. “At first, I was of course thinking of jackfruit, because you can use it as beef or pork — but jackfruit isn’t grown in Mexico. So Carlos helped me steer that dish so we can keep even the plant-bases as traditional as possible, too.”

“I love the vegan poblano,” Monroy adds. “One day I was talking with a friend, asking ‘How does your Mom prepare lentils?’ Oh, she adds this and this — wait, that tastes good? I tried it and it did, and it was vegan. The combo of the sweet and salty, it’s really good. The first night, the guys were like. 'This isn’t going to happen, people aren’t accustomed to it.’ But now, the guys are like, ‘This is selling a lot. We need more, we need to prep more!”

Sales aren’t the only indication that Fonda San Miguel has found the right kitchen leadership for the restaurant’s next chapter. Veteran members of the kitchen staff, some whom have been working at the restaurant for more than 25 years, have embraced Monroy and Zesati, too.

Gilliland also says he’s as excited about the restaurant’s menu as he’s ever been. And when you ask the two co-chefs themselves about their hopes and plans as year one comes to an end, it’s clear they recognize what’s special about the place they now lead.

“There are 50 years of history in this place,” Zesati says. “We just want to keep it going and keep people satisfied.”

“For us, the goal is to keep pushing Fonda San Miguel,” Monroy adds. “We want to keep Fonda San Miguel where it’s one of the staple restaurants of Austin and all of the U.S.”

"There are 50 years of history in this place," Zesati says. "We just want to keep it going and keep people satisfied."

Above: Blanca Zesati

Right: Carlos Monroy

All photos Fonda San Miguel

THE SUNCHOKE FACTOR

During winter, local markets abound with bundles of brightly colored beets, carrots and turnips, flanked by bushels full of sweet potatoes. One perhaps lesser-known but equally seasonal root vegetable is the sunchoke. Also known as a Jerusalem artichoke, earth apple, sunroot or topinambur, sunchokes can be a flavor game changer. They are such an intriguing mix of artichoke taste and creamy tuber. Even just one or two added to a soup will change the flavor profile in a winsome way. Look for them at the market this season with other root vegetables!

Roasted Sunchoke & Turnip Soup with Texas Pecan Dukkah

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

2 large turnips, cut into 1-inch cubes

½ pound sunchokes, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 t. coarse sea salt

1T. olive oil

1qt. water or stock, plus extra as needed Salt and pepper to taste

Texas Pecan Dukkah

Makes 1 (16-ounce) jar

INGREDIENTS

1 c. pecan pieces

½ c. dry-roasted peanuts

½ c. sunflower kernels

1 T. coriander seeds

1 T. cumin seeds

1 t. fennel seeds

2 T. sesame seeds (black or white)

1 T. chia seeds (optional)

1 t. smoked paprika powder, or to taste

1 t. ground black pepper, or to taste

1 t. sea salt, or to taste

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

This Winter

It’s citrus time! Grapefruit, kumquats, Meyer lemons, oranges, satsuma

Dark greens galore, including collards, kales, mustard and rainbow chard

PREPARATION

Preheat the oven to 425°. Line a baking tray with parchment paper. Toss turnips and sunchokes with salt and oil and spread in a single layer on a prepared tray. Roast for about 15 minutes, or until soft and lightly browned. Remove from oven. (You can do this ahead of time, or even freeze them.)

When ready to make the soup, put the roasted vegetables in a large saucepan. Add water or stock until the veggies are under about an inch and bring to a boil. Simmer for 10 minutes. Use a blender to purée the soup until smooth and thick. Add more liquid as needed. Taste and adjust for salt and pepper. To serve, pour soup into a deep bowl. Garnish with Texas Pecan Dukkah.

PREPARATION

Toast the pecans on a baking sheet in the oven until you can smell them (but take care not to burn). Transfer to a mortar and pestle, along with the dry-roasted peanuts, and pound until coarsely ground. Transfer to a bowl. Next, toast the sunflower kernels and proceed the same way, pounding until ground. Add to the bowl. Proceed with the seeds: Toast all until fragrant, transfer to a mortar and pestle and grind coarsely. Add to the bowl. Finally, season to taste with smoked paprika, salt and fresh-ground black pepper.

Let’s root! Think beets, carrots, sunchokes, sweet potatoes, turnips

Winter squash rules, from acorn and buttercup to kabocha and red kuri

And as always, pick those ‘P’s: pecans, pomegranates, pumpkin.

From the Gulf: It’s oyster season!

Find seasonal produce at your local farmers market — visit edibleaustin.com for a list of local farmers markets in the Austin area.

RECIPES AND PHOTOS BY FRANCINE SPIERING

Cocoa Pecan Orange Blossom Bread

INGREDIENTS

2 T. dry yeast

1¾ c. hot water

½ c. honey ½ c. soft butter

1 T. orange blossom water

1 T. sea salt

4 large eggs

2 c. all-purpose flour, more as needed

PREPARATION

Dissolve the yeast in the hot water in the bowl of a standing mixer and let sit until bubbly. Add honey, butter, orange blossom water and salt, and mix on a slow speed for 1 minute to combine. Add the eggs and increase speed and, beating hard, mix for 3 minutes. Add flour gradually until dough is no longer sticky. Shape into a ball and put into a well-oiled bowl. Cover and let rise until doubled (about 1 hour).

Put the pecans in a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Pour into a saucepan and mix in the remaining ingredients. Warm over low heat until butter and chocolate are melted. The mixture should be a spreadable paste. If it’s too runny, chill for a few minutes in the refrigerator. If it’s too thick, add a touch of warm water. On a floured surface, roll the risen dough out into a large rectangle. Spread filling out in an even layer, leaving a 1-inch border all the way around. Roll up the dough lengthwise and pinch edges shut. With a sharp knife, slice the roll lengthwise into 3 long, thin sections (this gets a bit messy but keep going!) and then braid the sections. Place on a parchment-lined baking tray, tucking the ends under. Sprinkle with some sugar or brush with an egg glaze, if desired.

Let dough rise for about ½ hour, then transfer to an oven preheated to 350°F and bake until golden and a toothpick inserted in the thickest part of the bread comes out clean — usually about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the filling:

1 c. toasted pecans

4 oz. dark chocolate, broken in small pieces 3 T. sugar

1 t. sea salt

1 t. cardamom powder

4 T. cocoa powder

1 t. orange blossom water grated zest of 1 orange ½ c. butter

PHOTOS BY LANA BERNBERG RECIPE BY BEE HOLLERAN

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Windy Bar Beef

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The Fonda San Miguel Cookbook

This Holiday Season, give them a gift they’re sure to love…and make your holiday shopping a snap. The Fonda San Miguel Cookbook is available at the restaurant or Amazon, and Gift Cards in any denomination are available in the restaurant or on our website.

$34.99

FondaSanMiguel.com

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Selections range from dinner party size packages to individually wrapped gifts. $10-$45 interorestaurant.com

Grade A Goatalicious

Dairy Farm

WORDS BY ASHLEY BROWN • PHOTOS BY PATTY ROBERTSON

When Robert and Claudia Ragels were starting a family in Flagstaff, Arizona, they never imagined that two decades later they’d be running a Grade A-certified goat dairy and cheese farm in New Braunfels. Claudia, originally from Germany, and Robert, a U.S. Army veteran, got their first two goats in 1999 for the sake of their children’s health. Their young sons, Robin and Ryan, were getting frequent ear infections, and a doctor suggested they switch from cow milk to goat milk. The ear infections stopped as soon as they made the change.

Goat milk isn’t necessarily a miracle food, but hearing the anecdotes from people over the years who have counted on milk from the Ragel’s goat farm, Goatilicious, it certainly seems worth trying. “Goat milk is easier to digest because it’s naturally homogenized,” explains Claudia. “People who think that they are lactose intolerant often have problems digesting the protein in cow milk and can consume goat milk just fine. Over the years we’ve had numerous people tell us that they are lactose intolerant but that when they tried our milk, they realized they were not.”

One parent was grateful for the way the switch to their milk cured their child’s previously out-of-control eczema. Another appreciative mother told the Ragels of her child who’d been wetting the bed consistently … until she started giving him their milk. One customer had suffered from

constipation for years until he transitioned to goat milk. Science suggests that this milk may not only be a good alternative to cow milk, but that it carries health benefits that could warrant adding it to our diets, even if we’re not big milk-drinkers. Among the health issues it could be helpful in alleviating are asthma, allergies and respiratory infections, in addition to digestive problems and eczema.

As the Ragels grew their goat family back in Arizona, they began making cheese and soap from the milk on a small scale. Both having grown up in cities, their knowledge of goats was limited, so they did a lot of reading and sought guidance from mentors. In 2005, they moved to 15 acres in New Braunfels, along with their goats, dogs and cats. Despite their intention to enjoy an early retirement, this property would ultimately become Goatilicious.

Left Page: Robert, Claudia, Robin and friends

As soon as word spread around the Hill Country about the Ragels’ goats, there was an enthusiastic interest in their cheese and milk. At first, the Ragels were selling milk “illegally,” because there were just so many desperate customers. Then, in 2017, they became a Grade Acertified dairy. While they hadn’t exactly planned to build this business, all along the way they’ve pridefully put their hearts and hands into meeting the demand for their high-quality products. Since becoming certified, Goatilicious has been growing. They’re currently constructing a storefront on the property, so customers will not only be able to visit the farm to purchase cheese, milk and soap, but they’ll also get a window (literally) into the making of the cheese. Robert considers that an important element of local farming — educating people about where their food comes from. I was lucky enough to visit

and witness a bit of a day-in-the-life of dairy farming myself. The herd of milking goats — with their loyal, sweet guard dogs — is just outside the door of the cheese-making room. Robert turned down his rock-n-roll music when I arrived to walk me through the process of making Tommboy and Española, their two hard cheeses. While I wasn’t there for the morning’s milking, I was able to meet the goats who provided the milk, watch Robert work on fitting and turning the cheese into wheels, walk into the refrigerated room where the cheese ages for a few months — developing beneficial mold that instills the cheese with flavor — and, finally, sample the products, which were all delicious. To my delight, I found that the cheese is not what I would call “overly goaty,” which is apparently due to the breed of their goats and what they feed them.

“Over the years we changed the recipes a little, and most of the time the changes were for the better, but we did learn a lot from making cheese that didn’t turn out the way we wanted to. Our cheeses took years to develop to what we really like about them,” says Claudia. There are no additives in these cheeses; they consist of nothing but milk, culture and rennet. The taste is affected by the cultures and the temperature during the aging process. In explaining this to me, Robert takes the opportunity to hammer home the point that there is no such thing as yellow or orange cheese!

They also make spreadable soft cheese, like their mixed herb, and fig and black pepper chevres; cajeta, a luxuriously delectable goat milk caramel; and soaps. They sell the raw milk to order and it can be picked up by appointment at the farm or at one of the local farmers’ markets they frequent. The milk, sold by the gallon, is only available in late winter and spring; during the fall and winter, the milk is used for making cheese. They sell their cheeses wholesale (and they’re served up at many restaurants in the area) and at the farmers markets in San Antonio, downtown Austin, Dripping Springs and more.

When I remarked that the cheese-making process seems labor-intensive, Robert explains that there’s not a single part of farming that isn’t. But the Ragels take such pride in their product, as well as the goats themselves, that they enjoy all the hard work. Through the years, it’s been tough to find reliable employees, and they’re happy to have a good crew now, as they work on plans to expand.

Among the many challenges they’ve faced in running and building their farm was a contractor who went MIA in the middle of the expansion projects … which is why they’re now building the storefront themselves. During construction of the cheese-making facility, they had to just dump milk for six months. But the Ragels keep forging ahead, and it’s clear how excited they are about the day they’ll be able to welcome customers into their store.

The Ragels are always dreaming up new ideas. They’d been planning on making a cheddar cheese with beer and/or wine, but then the formula shortage struck. People were so desperate for their milk, they sold more than they normally would, meaning less milk for cheese. “We took a fifty percent loss [because the cheese is more profitable] just to make sure people had enough milk for their kids,” says Robert.

I wondered if they ever get sick of cheese — which, of course, would be a great tragedy — and they assure me they don’t. They love to cook with their cheese, make sandwiches with the jalapeño artichoke chevre or just enjoy the hard cheese on a great piece of baguette or with an apple slice.

The farm is home to 95 does that produce milk, 18 bucks and a bunch of junior does — about 150 goats total, all with names. They

also breed and sell goats. “We breed for quality, confirmation and high milk production,” says Claudia. The registered Ragels Ziegenhof herd consists of three breeds: Nubians, LaManchas and Nigerians, as well as some mixes. “Even though I don’t show goats, I like to have a goat that is as much show-quality as possible that also gives a lot of milk because I believe if you breed, you might as well better the breed.”

In addition to goats, they raise chickens and ducks and sell their eggs. They have four cows and one bull; they raise the females to sell and bulls for meat. (They don’t believe in eating female cows or goats, because of their value and purpose in life.) And they have donkeys just for fun. The goats produce milk for about 10 years, and after all those years of hard work, they enjoy retirement on the farm or go to other families as pets.

This isn’t just about business for the Ragels. “Being around animals is like free therapy,” says Claudia. “It can be very difficult at times but also very rewarding. In today’s world, animals can be much easier to be around than people at times.” Milking and being with the goats is particularly healing for Robert, who has posttraumatic stress disorder. When he was diagnosed, healthcare professionals specifically told him to work with animals as part of his therapy.

“I love working with the goats and making the cheese. It’s all very peaceful,” he says.

Claudia agrees that being around animals all day beats any other kind of work. She explains that growing up, she witnessed male dominance in the workplace, one reason she’s quite happy to be her own boss. “I have too much will to be subservient. Even if we gave up the business, I’d never give up the animals.” Her “colleagues” consist of a few kind people and more than a hundred animals, and her love for and pride in them emanates from her as she introduces me to them all.

For more information, to purchase Goatilicious products or inquire about animals for sale, visit TexasGoatDairy.com.

Upper Left: Robin displays wheels of freshly made cheese

Holiday Shortbread Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

1 c. butter, softened

½ c. confectioner’s sugar

2 c. unbleached flour

¼ t. salt

PREPARATION

Preheat oven to 350º. Cream the butter and sugar in a large bowl. Combine the flour and salt, then add to the butter mixture ¼ cup at a time. Mix until well combined. Roll out dough until ¼-inch thick. Cut into desired shapes, prick each piece with a fork and place on an ungreased cookie sheet. Freeze for 30 minutes. Bake for 20–25 minutes until light brown on the edges.

RECIPE BY LAUREN TITUS PHOTO BY AMY ROBB