Edible Austin: Beverage 2016 by Edible Austin

No. 46 May/June | Beverage 2016

Cel eb ra ti n g Cen tra l Texa s fo o d cu lt u re, sea so n by sea so n

The

BEVERAGE Issue

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DESTINATION HOST

Jalisco, Mexico

Dulce Vida Organic Tequila

PURPOSE RESULT

Sourcing Organic Agave

Great Tequila for Austin

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CONTENTS beverage issue 8 notable MENTIONS 12 notable EDIBLES Blue Owl Brewing, Jester King, Another Bottle Down.

16 edible SPOTLIGHT

Local heroes.

28 edible POLICY

GMOs: a question of food democracy.

32 farmers DIARY

Agua Dulce Farm.

48 edible BEAUTY

Facing facts with DIY facials.

50 hip girlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guide to HOMEMAKING

BEVERAGE features 20 Ben Calais Ben Calais feels strongly about making

In a pickle.

exceptional wine.

52 edible GARDENS Okra: our humble hero.

54 la casita de BUEN SABOR

Kooper Family Rye barrel-ages in Texas terroir.

24 Railean Rum

Gazpacho borracho.

57 back of the HOUSE

22 The Whiskey of Defiance

Restoring American rum since 2005.

35 Making a Mockery Mimic the hard stuff with mocktails.

Hops & Grain.

61 The Directory

45 DIY Tea Blends

COVER: Pulling a taste of Kooper Family Rye by Melanie Grizzel (page 22).

The possibilities are endless for brewing your own.

EDIBLE ESCAPE Photo Contest

PUBLISHER Marla Camp

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Jenna Northcutt

EDITOR Kim Lane

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Dawn Weston

COPY EDITOR Anne Marie Hampshire

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

@jennanoel: Shrimp boils always make me miss home in Louisiana.

Melinda Barsales, Dena Garcia, Cari Marshall, Michelle Moore

@slcassady: Who doesn’t love cake?

EVENTS COORDINATOR Susanna Cassady

MARKETING SPECIALISTS Christine Andrews, Brandy Fox, Valerie Kelly

DISTRIBUTION MANAGER

@marlacamp: Always fresh from the farmers market.

Leary Kelly

INTERN Rian Rendon

ADVISORY GROUP Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Carol Ann Sayle

Tell Us What You Eat and Why! Enter a photo in our Edible Escape photo contest for a chance to win a great escape package! Grand prize is a 5-day New Mexico adventure sponsored by Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm. Runner-up prizes include an escape to Marfa and a getaway to the Pearl Brewery in San Antonio.

Enter by tagging @edibleaustin and #edibleescape Entries May 30—June 10. See edibleaustin.com/rules for official rules.

Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $30 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2016. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.

TICKETS ON SALE NOW!

Over

restaurants

and

craft breweries More at: edibleaustin.com Sunday, June 12, 2:30–5 pm • Circuit of The Americas PRODUCED BY:

EAT BOSTON

PRESENTED BY:

BENEFITS:

notable MENTIONS OUR GLOBAL KITCHEN IS LOCAL The Bullock Museum presents “Our Global Kitchen,” an interactive, multimedia exhibition from the American Museum of Natural History, through Sunday, July 24. The exhibition explores the historical, cultural and scientific intersections of humans and food. Through rare artifacts, such as an ancient earthenware stove from China’s Han Dynasty, vignettes of the dining rooms of historic figures including Kublai Khan and Jane Austen, an interactive “virtual cooking” table, a test kitchen with live programming, and a video showcasing food-centric celebrations around the world, “Our Global Kitchen” provides opportunities to investigate and experience the past, present and future of civilization’s common currency—food. The exhibit’s education programs and Tasting Kitchen are sponsored by Whole Foods Market. Visit thestoryoftexas.com or call 512-936-8746 for more information.

lunch. dinner. MUSIC. 1305 w. oltorf theabgb.com

FREDERICKSBURG MARKET RETURNS The weekly Fredericksburg Farmer’s Market returns for another season of showcasing the area’s bounty in the Marktplatz Kinderhalle on Thursday, May 5, from 4 to 7 p.m. For eight years, the market has been a terrific opportunity to buy directly from farms, ranches, wineries and other growers and producers from all over verdant Gillespie and adjacent counties. The growing market now has 21 vendors—including Cave Creek Lavender, Wahoo’s Seafood Co., Tandem Farm Co., Hairston Creek Farm and 4.0 Cellars—and is dedicated to promoting Fredericksburg as a culinary arts center. Visit fredericksburgfarmersmarket.com for more information.

“UP THE HILLS, DOWN THE BEERS!”

made in the shade OPEN MON-SUN NOON TO 8

liveoakbrewing.com/taproom

The Real Ale Ride, Bicycle Sport Shop’s most popular event, rolls through the scenic hills of Blanco on Saturday, May 21. It’s a ride for all cyclists, with distances of 15, 30, 50, 65 and 80 miles to choose from. Routes are fully supported and all end at Real Ale Brewing Company for a post-ride celebration with local beer and barbecue. This year’s ride benefits Bike Austin and Blanco Friends of the Library. Visit realaleride.com for more information.

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No matter how you mix it, my handmade vodka beats those giant “imports” every day.

WINE ENTHUSIAST RATINGS SCORE OUT OF 100 POINTS

SALT-CURED SA LM ON WITH VODKA, JUNIPER, ROSE MARY & LEMO N ZEST

We’ve been working with HonestCooking.com to show how to incorporate Tito’s Handmade Vodka into a variety of meals and desserts. Our friends over at Feasting at Home have created an easy and delicious recipe for saltcured salmon, featurng Tito’s, lemon and herbs. Perfect for making lox appetizers, or to add to salads, pastas or sushi. For this recipe and more, visit titosvodka.com/blog. Photo and recipe courtesy of Feasting at Home ©2016. feastingathome.com

PTS

IT’S LAVENDER TIME! The City of Blanco hosts the 12th Annual Blanco Lavender Festival, June 10–12. Visitors can enjoy free tours of Hill Country Lavender and Imagine Lavender Farm and shopping at the Lavender Market on Blanco’s historic town square. Be sure to check out the speaker’s pavilion with cooking demonstrations and a food court with special dishes from local restaurants, all featuring the fragrant native flower at the height of its season. Zydeco Blanco and Bobby Mack will perform in Bindseil Park. Visit blancochamber.com for more information.

Dinner tues-sun 5-10pm Lunch tues-sat 11-2pm Brunch sun 10:30-2:30pm

café & bistro 16920 Ranc h Ro a d 1 2 • Wimb e r le y , T X 78676

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KEEP ON TRUCKIN’ Luckenbach will be a hotbed of activity at the Hill Country Food Truck Festival, from noon to 11 p.m. on Saturday, June 25. In addition to tasty morsels from a bevy of portable eateries, the festival will also have plenty of wine from Texas wineries, and the Luckenbach Texas bar will offer Texas craft beer (and other kinds, too). This being Luckenbach, you’ll also enjoy live Americana music. Tickets are $15 each, and kids 12 and under are free (and even dogs on leashes are welcome). Proceeds benefit the Texas Center for Wine and Culinary Arts. Visit luckenbachtexas.com or call 830-997-3224 for more information.

TAKE A HIKE BY THE LIGHT OF THE MOON Put on your walking shoes and join the Lady Bird Johnson

FAMILY OWNED AND OPERATED Craft beer and farm fresh food featuring Windy Hill Foods meats and produce Coming Soon to Boerne, TX

www.cibolocreekbrewing.com

Wildflower Center for an evening hike through the gardens and arboretum. See the beauty of the gardens by moonlight, listen to the coyotes howl, and catch a glimpse of an owl in flight. For ages 16 and older, the next Moonlight Hike will be on Thursday, May 19, from 8 to 10 p.m. Visit wildflower.org for more information and to register. Fee is $15.

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More Tequila FOR THE PERFECT

MARGARITA! With a Texas-sized selection of hard-to-find tequilas and a myriad of mixers, Spec’s is your key ingredient for a good time!

Cheers to Savings!

LOCATIONS ALL ACROSS THE AREA! (512) 366-8260 • SPECSONLINE.COM

notable EDIBLES

EXPERIENCE WINES WITH A TRUE SENSE OF PLACE.

TART REFORM

100% TEXAS. Visit us in the Hill Country, find us in your favorite Austin restaurant or wine shop.

LEWIS WINES visit by appointment Johnson City 512-987-0660 lewiswines.com

hen beer snobs proclaim their love for sour brews, they’re not just trying to be controversial. Refined to tart and tangy

splendor by the Belgians, a good sour beer can be as refreshing as a cool glass of lemonade—when it’s done right. The trouble is, it’s easy to get wrong, given all the special fermented yeasts and lactic-acid bacteria involved. It’s a messy business, but Austin’s Blue Owl Brewing has it down to a science. Founded in 2014 by Jeff Young and Suzy Shaffer—both formerly of Black Star Co-op—Blue Owl makes sour beers and nothing but. The lineup includes: Spirit Animal, a sour pale ale; Little Boss, a sour session wheat; Professor Black, a sour cherry stout; Dapper Devil, a sour raspberry Belgian strong; and Van Dayum!, a sour red ale. It may seem a gamble for a brewery to play only one sour note, but Young has a more expansive view. “What we’re trying to do is take all the usual ingredients and styles you might be familiar with, like hoppy pale ale and malty red ale, and introduce a new dimension,” he says. “All we’re doing is adding sourness as a component. It’s a lot more refreshing.” Though making sour beers tends to be prohibitively expensive for most independent breweries, Blue Owl works its magic through sour mashing. It’s a less costly technique little used by beer folks because the necessary wild cultures involved can produce unpredictable results. But like Walter White of “Breaking Bad,” Young—a pharmaceutical chemist turned brewmaster—has tamed this process to give his creations the same consistent flavors every time. He’s even created “sour units” to turn the sour up or down in each batch. “We can control sourness levels to let us have lighter sour offerings or stronger sour offerings,” says Young. “You get more complex and diverse flavor profiles this way.”

Cripple Creek Wine and Gifts

With Shaffer running the business end of things, Blue Owl plans to

FROM

WINE T

focus for now on expanding within Austin (though you may find a can

O RITAS

Bastrop’s historic downtown is home to unique locally-owned restaurants featuring something for every palate …come be surprised by the tastes of Bastrop! y

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Viejo’s Tacos y Tequila 12

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or two in other Texas cities). For his part, Young will continue applying his exacting method to produce surprising results. “I’m using a lot of the same ideas I used as a chemist to affect reactions and processes,” he says. “The only difference is, I was making drugs back then and now I’m making alcohol. I like this product a lot more.” —Steve Wilson For more information, visit blueowlbrewing.com or call 512-593-1262.

TAKING BACK THE LAND

ould farmhouse beer still be farmhouse beer without the farm? Jester King Brewery doesn’t want to find out. Last year, the

beer-maker bought 58 acres of rural Hill Country from its neighbor (and landlord), Stanley’s Farmhouse Pizza. The move ensures that the only development on the land will be fermenting yeast, rising dough and budding crops. “We were concerned that with all the development we see from Austin to Dripping Springs, we’d find ourselves surrounded by subdivision,” says Jeffrey Stuffings, who founded Jester King with Michael Steffing in 2010. “When the opportunity to buy the land came up, it wasn’t in the plans for 2015, but we found a way to do it.”

TFK_Austin_EdibleAustin_Bison_May_3.625x4.75.indd 1

4/6/16 4:20 PM

Though the view will stay the same, and Stanley’s will still sell pizza next door, Jester King isn’t turning the land into some kind of museum piece. The brewery has several plans in the works, starting with growing grains, herbs and vegetables to put the farm in its farmhouse beer. Already stringent about using water from the local well, now Jester King can use the malted grains and native wild yeasts rising just outside its door. Though hops don’t do so well in this region, Jester King already has grapes, blackberries, melons and peaches planted for its more experimental creations. “Everything we have in the works now we plan to use in the beer,” says Stuffings. “It’s all tied into the idea of linking the beer to the land around us, giving it a sense of place.” The sense of place at Jester King will eventually get bigger when its longer-term goals for the land come to fruition. The brewery has plans for a vineyard for winemaking and a farm-to-table restaurant down the road, as well as an artisan food operation for cheeses and cured meats. “We have a passion for beer-making, but anything microbes can do to create flavors is interesting to us,” he says. “So we’d like to see Jester King become a place for all things fermentation.” Stuffings also dreams of an eventual apiary for honey; on-site barley and wheat malting; a miniature dairy farm; a space for lodging, weddings and events; nature trails; and classes to teach people about sustainable farming. “It comes out of the farmhouse beer tradition,” he says. “If it can be grown, crafted or fermented using what’s available to us, we want to do it.” —Steve Wilson For more information, visit jesterkingbrewery.com or call 512-537-5100. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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ANOTHER BOTTLE DOWN

hen local wine expert Mark Rashap worked at Spec’s, customers often asked for wines they had read about in the New York

Times or national magazines, not knowing that the wines weren’t available in Texas. Rashap realized that while interest in wine was growing in Austin, the local news about wine was still limited. As a certified wine educator, Rashap has contributed to Austin’s wine community by regularly teaching consumers (and wine professionals) via classes for The Wine & Food Foundation of Texas, as well as through webinars with the Society of Wine Educators and wine dinners at local restaurants. Yet even with these educational outlets, he was looking for a way to broaden the audience. “I wanted to contribute to the dialogue in a productive way,” says Rashap. “That manifested into the idea for a radio show, ‘Another Bottle Down.’” Photography by Vanessa Inc.

Encouraged by Francois Pointeau, a former colleague who hosted a poetry and writing show, Rashap joined KOOP radio and began learning the ropes of a community-run station. “You have to do all the pieces of the puzzle,” says Rashap. “There is no engineer on staff, so I had to learn to do that and get certified, which takes about a year.” Prospective hosts also have to apprentice on a show, volunteer regularly at the station, then wait for an open slot and gain the approval of the programming committee. The stars aligned for Rashap in the summer of 2015, and he launched “Another Bottle Down”—initially a half-hour show on Wednesdays, but now a one-hour spot on Tuesday afternoons. Each week, Rashap interviews winemakers, wine professionals and restaurateurs about all aspects of the wine industry. “I’ve been fortunate to work in most aspects of the wine business,” says Rashap. “I want to help listeners understand the behind-the-scenes work as well…like, how a restaurant puts together a wine list or what part distributors and importers play.” The show has a special focus on the Texas wine industry, including interviews with local winemakers and reports from the vineyards. Rashap also features a periodic segment in partnership with Daniel Kelada of the Texas Wine Journal, in which a panel tastes

the-world segments are popular with listeners, and reveal how Texas wines compare to their counterparts from around the world. With the show nearing its first anniversary, Rashap is looking forward to incorporating new segments into the longer format—including interviews from the road (as he travels to wine trade shows in other cities) and conversations with some of his favorite wine personalities, such as Randall Grahm, winemaker at Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz, California, and wine writer, Matt Kramer. “Everyone in Austin has been so supportive, and it’s exciting to see people’s faces after they are on the show…they’re pumped,” says Rashap. “I’m proud to be part of the station and to put out content that’s valuable to the listeners.”—Kristi Willis

Texas wines side by side with similar wines from around the world.

Listen to “Another Bottle Down” at KOOP radio, 91.7 FM, Tuesdays

The tasters don’t know which wine is which, leading to some candid

from 1 to 2 p.m., or visit koop.org for more info. Podcasts of the show

dialogue and banter while they review the wines. The Texas-versus-

are available at theilluminatedbottle.com/radio-and-blog

THERMOGRAPHY HIGHLY EFFECTIVE BREAST SCREENING No Radiation

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edible SPOTLIGHT

LOCAL HERO AWARDS BY C L A I R E C E L L A

arlier this year, we asked Edible Austin readers to vote for their local food heroes—the people and businesses in our community who are making a delicious and

groundbreaking impact on our local food scene. You answered the call to give these heroes the credit they deserve, and we’re honored to present the winners. Here’s a peek into who they are, what they’re up to and why our readers love them.

FOO

ocal Her D SHOP

FOOD SHOP Antonelli’s Cheese Shop Once again, Antonelli’s Cheese Shop has earned the love

and admiration of Austinites and has been named a local food

ocal Her

/ R E S TA U R A

hero. We could try to list the reasons why it remains so beloved, but John and Kendall Antonelli, the cheesemonger couple be-

CHEF / RESTAURANT Todd Duplechan and Jessica Maher Lenoir It’s been a little over four years since Lenoir opened its doors and welcomed diners into a rustic, whitewash-boarded,

hind the shop, just keep adding to the list. They’re forever expanding their craft and knowledge—continuously filling their gleaming glass cases with distinct and unique cheeses, hearty smoked meats and savory snacks. And they maintain an active presence as both generous hosts and learned guides, helping to bolster and further our city’s food culture. antonellischeese.com • 512-531-9610

chandelier-draped space deemed to be about the size of a

FOOD ARTISAN

shed. And while the physical size of the restaurant remains

confituras

the same (save for the addition of an outdoor wine garden), the restaurant’s reputation and impact on the Austin food

For six years, you’ve been able to find Stephanie McClenny’s

scene continues to swell beyond this modest space. That’s

confituras jams and jellies every Saturday at the Sustainable

because husband-and-wife team, Todd Duplechan and Jessica

Food Center’s downtown farmers market, as well as at a few

Maher, remain committed to their original vision: creatively

specialty stores around town. But soon, McClenny will have

celebrating seasonally sourced, truly Texas cuisine.

much more room to spread out, and we’ll have jam and bis-

lenoirrestaurant.com • 512-215-9778 16

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cuits to celebrate! In late 2015, she raised over $29,000 to start

Live music isn’t the only reason people move to Austin. Austin Independent School District is reinventing public education.

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O D A RT I S A N

her own brick-and-mortar. With the help of many enthusiastic backers, McClenny can now build a space that will serve the needs of confituras as well as support small, women-owned businesses via a rental kitchen space and culinary incubator. Talk about spreading the love. confituras.net

• 7 high schools ranked best in the nation by U.S. News & World Report • SAT and ACT exam scores that consistently beat the state and national average • Dual language learning options • 242 national-board-certified teachers — more than any other school district in Texas • A focus on sustainability with the Green Tech Academy at Small Middle School

Photography by Sandra Ramos

• Partners for Education, Agriculture, and Sustainability (PEAS) and the MicroSociety program at Cunningham Elementary • The Butterfly Garden at Brooke Elementary

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• Healthy extras like the made-to-order salad bar and local farm partnerships offered by Metz Elementary

F RM / ARMER

FARM / FARMER Glenn and Paula Foore, Springdale Farm

Take a closer look at an AISD school in your neighborhood.

It’s enrollment time! Glenn and Paula Foore, the owners of Springdale Farm, have provided the community with so much: over 75 different varieties

austinisd.org

of fresh produce; a popular morning market to socialize and spend time together; a backyard space that has hosted events from weddings to pig roasts; and partnerships with some of Austin’s most prestigious farm-to-table restaurants. But when they started the farm more than seven years ago, they hoped to do even more. Now, through their educational food, music and arts events, the Foores show others the powerful way food can galvanize community, culture and compassion. By encouraging and inviting people to visit and experience an urban farm EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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through tours, fundraisers, weddings and supper clubs, the

Lanski and John-Paxton Gremillion—won over hearts and

Foores further the awareness and the appreciation of the local

tongues with their sweet, tangy teas. Not only does the brew

food scene, which in the end, helps us all.

come in a rainbow of flavors, such as blueberry, strawberry

springdalefarmaustin.com • 512-386-8899

lemonade and the newest, turmeric, but it also comes in a variety of forms. You can find it on tap, in growlers and kegs, and from bottles available everywhere from corner stores and cafés to grocery chains in Austin, greater Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Oklahoma and Arkansas. buddhasbrew.com • 512-736-4815

NONPROFIT

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R A G E A RT I S

Urban Roots For Urban Roots, success is not measured in pounds of produce grown (although they grew an impressive 25,064

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pounds in 2015) or acres of fields farmed. It’s measured in

Buddha’s Brew

more than a few of them—from being featured on the “Jimmy

moments of connection. And last year, the nonprofit had Kimmel Live!” show to salvaging flooded farmland. They

You’ve probably noticed that Austin is a little batty about

worked for, and achieved, these transformative and inspir-

kombucha. While there’s contention over which ’buch is best,

ing moments through empowering youth leaders, feeding the

this year, Buddha’s Brew—owned and operated by Kimberly

community and advocating health for all. Since 2011, Urban

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HOME Your guide to local living

Special Edition Debuting June 1

NON

ocal Her PROFIT

Roots has been providing paid internships to Austin youth, donating its harvest to food pantries and soup kitchens and supporting many community-building programs such as its community supported agriculture (CSA) program. As usual, Urban Roots continues to prove just how deep theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re willing to dig for the Austin community. urbanrootsatx.org â&#x20AC;˘ 512-750-8019

Comfort in a bottle

Bottle openers

Visit our tasting room

find it at

142 Linder Branch Trail, Comfort, Texas

830-995-2948 | bendingbranchwinery.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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PEOPLE

BEN CALAIS BY RAC H E L J O H N SO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L

en Calais of Calais Winery

High Plains region. The wines cel-

doesn’t particularly care

lared in Calais Winery are crafted

what you think, as long as

with primarily wild yeast and fer-

you think it while drinking his cab-

ment up to 40 months in his cellar.

ernet/merlot/malbec/cabernet franc

“We have one of the longest cellaring

blend, the 2013 La Cuvee d’Elme. It’s

programs in Texas,” boasts Calais—

a gentle jest, but he’ll tell you he’s

noting that he’s only interested

dead serious about the business of

in producing a limited number of

making exceptional wine. A recent

bottles a year, or at least as many

transplant from Dallas, he’s brought

as he can without compromising

his winemaking acumen to Hye,

his core values. “I want to do ONE

Texas, and has since been intensely

thing and be the best at it. I’ve run

focused on making the area a hot-

big businesses, and I don’t want to

bed for high-end Texas wines.

be a big business. When you reach

Calais grew up in the region

a certain scale, you don’t have the

of Calais, France, and moved to

same amount of attention to detail

Texas to pursue a career in engi-

and you can’t make the same deci-

neering. After making wine part-

sions,” he says.

time and loving it, though, he

This “keep it small” vision

committed himself to the craft and

means that visiting the winery re-

opened a small winery/storefront

quires a scheduled appointment

in the Deep Ellum area of Dallas.

and an hour drive west of Austin.

But after some frustrating zoning

But Calais invites patrons to meet

and permitting snafus with the City of Dallas, he packed up and

him at his cozy cellar/tasting room built into a hillside, a cave-like

moved his operation to Hye. He says that the tight, established

environment that’s ideal for keeping wines—and visitors—cool in

and supportive community of craft winemakers in the area was

the hot Texas sun. His reds currently include a couple of tempra-

enticing and played an integral role in his move; it continues to

nillos, two cabernets, a port-style dessert wine and the aforemen-

support his business in ways he wouldn’t be able to rely on other-

tioned blend. He also produces a dry rosé and two white wines

wise. “There are so many winemakers in the area,” he says. “I nev-

made from roussanne grapes. Calais leads the hour-long tastings

er have to buy equipment; I just borrow it from two miles down

himself, and limits attendance to 10 people—guaranteeing a more

the road! We share customers and similar philosophies when it

intimate experience with ample time for savoring wines and an-

comes to making wine.”

swering questions. He even makes the accompanying artisan bread

It’s true, the area’s winemakers function as family. “When some-

for all his tastings. It’s this attention to detail and simplicity that

one in Hye wins, we all win,” says Calais. It’s not uncommon, for

defines his style and allows him to make noteworthy wines. “Ev-

example, for Calais to send his customers down the street before

erything is designed on my palate,” he says. “I don’t care what’s

his wine tasting begins to visit friend Doug Lewis of Lewis Wines.

cool and what’s not, because by the time you make it, it’s not

“Ben’s general philosophy has had a great impact on my winemak-

cool anymore. You have to do something that you feel strongly

ing,” notes Lewis. “I’d say that he makes the best wine possible, and

about.”

really puts in effort that very few producers in Texas match.” For his craft, Calais relies on simple fundamentals: Time and 100-percent Texas-grown grapes sourced predominantly from the 20

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For more information or to make reservations, visit calaiswinery.com or call 830-213-2124.

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edible ENDEAVOR

WHISKEY OF DEFIANCE BY A N N E M A R I E H A M PS H I R E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L

“Rye helped fuel a lot of rebellions.” —Troy Kooper, Kooper Family Rye

roy and Michelle Kooper didn’t grow up in Austin, but

Springs. “We sit on a limestone shelf and all those wonderful min-

they swear they got here as fast as they could. When the

erals contribute to the complexity of our whiskey,” says Michelle.

couple finally arrived in 2011, they didn’t know a soul and

“And the climate—the humidity and heat—gives it the depth of

didn’t have jobs lined up. But it didn’t take long for them to settle in with their five-year-old son, Phoenix, make new friends, land some freelance gigs and…start making whiskey?

flavor. We’re really lucky. Texas is in our barrels.” With the boom in local craft spirits in recent years, it may come as a surprise that Kooper Family Rye is one of only a few

Yes, the couple were admitted bootstrappers by necessity back

local rye whiskeys on the Central Texas scene. Perhaps fueled by

then, but also, that’s just the way they’re wired. “Michelle was

the rising popularity of mixology, the cultural taste for the spirit

making her own dish soap, laundry detergent and toothpaste, and

is making a meteoric comeback on the national stage after a slow

we were gardening,” says Troy. And after a long day’s work, they

decline that began just after the end of Prohibition. But in fact,

often found themselves dreaming about their next venture while

rye was the first style of whiskey distilled in the U.S. and has deep

sipping rye whiskey. “So we decided to make that, too.”

roots in our national history. George Washington had his own

Why rye? When the couple met in the Bay Area years ago,

distillery at Mount Vernon and Alexander Hamilton, treasury

Michelle was working in the restaurant business. “Back then, she

secretary after the Revolution, imposed a tax on the popular and

got me into red wine,” says Troy. “That was our first big thing.

ubiquitous spirit in an effort to reduce the national debt. This, of

Then we started drinking scotch; that was our first whiskey. But

course, resulted in the Whiskey Rebellion. “It’s the whiskey of

once we were getting into scotch and really liking it, we tried

defiance,” says Troy. “Rye helped fuel a lot of rebellions.”

some rye and we thought, ‘Wow! This is so much better than

Fitting then, that the label on each bottle of Kooper Family Rye

scotch.’” Michelle agrees. “It’s a very smooth, mellow, even

features a boxer with fists up, ready to rumble. And it turns out,

spirit,” she says. “And there’s not a lot of burn, so you can sip it.”

that fighting spirit is in both of the Koopers’ blood: Troy’s grand-

Enamored of the taste of rye, they started brewing and mash-

father was the U.S. Armed Forces light-heavyweight champion in

ing at home, trying to perfect their own recipe. In order to be

1944, and Michelle’s cousin was the WBC welterweight champion

labeled American rye whiskey, it must be made with at least

of the world from 1976 to 1979. Lucky for us, both families’ pen-

51 percent rye, but the Koopers were after a smooth, palatable,

chant for pugilism is now channeled into the couple’s pure love

100-percent rye whiskey. As with all things related to whiskey,

for rye whiskey and the place where it’s aged, bottled and en-

this took time—and a lot of trial and error. “A LOT of error,” Troy

joyed. Not only did their whiskey recently win a gold medal at the

says with a laugh. “Each time you mash, it takes eight hours—an

2016 San Francisco World Spirits Competition, arguably the most

eight-hour day with Phoenix running around getting into every-

influential spirits competition in the world, but it has also quickly

thing. And then, we would ferment for a week, and then distill—

become a favorite among local bartenders and mixologists. The

that’s another eight hours.” Troy admits that in the beginning, 70

Driskill Hotel, for example, has created two signature cocktails

percent of the time they would screw up, but that they learned

that highlight Kooper Family Rye, including The Driskill Julep to

something each time.

celebrate the hotel’s 130th anniversary. “Austin is so great,” says

All that learning eventually paid off. In 2015—after the birth of their daughter, Olympia, and a lot of research and stints training

Troy. “There’s no way we could have done this anywhere else. We wouldn’t have had the courage to try.”

at a small distillery in Chicago to learn the ins-and-outs of a more scalable operation—they started selling their first batch of Kooper

For more information about where to find Kooper Family Rye,

Family Rye.

visit kooperfamily.com or call 512-934-7685.

It’s the aging process that makes Kooper Family Rye distinctly Texan and truly tasty. Their barrels are made from American

While the Koopers—and many bartenders in Austin—believe

white oak that’s been left outside for two years in all the elements

their rye whiskey is best sipped straight, they have a few

to remove the tannins. Then, once the barrels are filled with

tricks up their sleeves when making the perfect old-school

the whiskey, it ages in the warehouse/tasting room in Dripping

rye whiskey cocktails. Find their recipes at edibleaustin.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

BEVERAGE 2016

PEOPLE

KELLY RAILEAN BY M M PAC K P H OTO G R A P H Y BY C H AS I T Y A N N N O E L

elly Railean is a woman with a mission. Her official goal

each other through the Texas Distilled Spirits Association and of-

is “Restoring American Rum,” and since 2005, she’s been

ten worked events together. Tito Beveridge [of Tito’s Handmade

doing just that at Railean Eagle Point Distillery in the tiny

Vodka], was the first Texas distiller, and he was a role model for

coastal community of San Leon on Galveston Bay. “Most people

me. He opened a lot of doors for all of us.”

don’t realize that rum was the original American spirit,” she says.

Currently, Kelly makes several products: Railean White Rum

“Or that most commercial rums today are factory-produced and

is distilled multiple times to produce a clear, smooth spirit. And

often aged in used whiskey barrels. Many distilleries don’t even

three dark rums are single-distilled for more flavor and aged in

make their own spirits; they buy liquors and rectify [redistill],

small barrels: Railean Reserve XO Rum is blended, Small Cask

blend and flavor them.” Through her products, though, Railean

Rum is produced from single barrels and Spiced Rum is aged with

is acquainting customers with the pleasures of wholly handcraft-

spices. She also makes three spirits from blue agave nectar, and

ed rums made from pure American ingredients and aged in new

in 2013, she released Railean Vodka. This year, she’s introducing

American oak barrels. Even the bottles are American-made.

a new rum made from cane juice (instead of the more commonly

Kelly and husband Matt found their way to rum via Gulf and

used molasses).

Caribbean sailing culture. In 1991, they moved to coastal Texas from

A lush sugarcane hedge grows around the distillery’s perim-

Michigan for Matt’s chemical engineering career. They bought

eter. In September 2015, the Raileans harvested the first crop,

a sailboat and roamed the tropical seas—tasting and collecting

crushing cane and extracting juice with an antique mill. “We pro-

rums. With a sommelier certification and a background in bio-

cessed cane all day and got four gallons of juice,” she says with a

chemistry, Kelly worked in wine distribution for 20 years. “I

laugh. “To make a batch of rum, I need at least a thousand gallons.

thought I’d open a winery or wine bar,” she says. But tasting rums

But it was a good exercise showing folks how it worked.”

one evening at San Leon’s Buccaneer Bar, she decided she could

In 2013, due largely to efforts by the Texas Distilled Spirits

make better—and the idea for the distillery was born. Following

Association (Kelly is a founding officer), state liquor laws changed

two years of research, experimentation, business planning and

so that distillers could sell bottles from distilleries, conduct tast-

permit gathering, Kelly made her first rum in 2005 and built the

ings and serve drinks made from their products. The Raileans

Eagle Point Distillery in 2006. Railean Rum hit retail shelves in

wasted no time in building the Buccaneer Bar—named for the

2007, and today, Railean products are distributed in Texas, Arkan-

San Leon dive destroyed in 2008 by Hurricane Ike—next door to

sas, Arizona, Pennsylvania and California.

the distillery. It’s a friendly place with a pirate vibe, patronized

Working as a female distiller in a principally male domain, Kelly says she hasn’t encountered many obstacles. “I’ve never been treated

by local regulars and visitors companionably enjoying cocktails made with Railean products.

differently as a woman,” she says. “Of course, I’m a tomboy and have

And not only does Kelly distill the spirits, wrangle the bar-

always hung out with the guys, and that helps. When I worked in

rels, bottle and label the products and manage the business and

the wine industry, it was male-dominated at the time, so I was used

marketing, she also guides distillery tours, conducts tastings

to that situation. Occasionally at events, people mistake one of my

and tends bar at her own pirate den. Fortunately, she’s got two

male helpers as the distiller, but we straighten things out quickly.”

employees and a handful of enthusiastic volunteers. “Basically,

“When I started Railean, the only other woman distiller in Texas was Paula Angerstein of Paula’s Texas Spirits. We got to know 24

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we’re a bunch of fun-loving sailors and pirate lovers who are really passionate about rum,” she says. Yo ho ho, y’all.

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ALL ABOUT RUM Rum is a fermented, distilled alcoholic beverage made from molasses, a by-product of sugar production. (About 15 percent of rum worldwide is made from sugarcane juice instead of molasses, including rhum agricole from Martinique and cachaça in Brazil.) Sugarcane is a giant grass filled with sweet pulp. Once harvested, the juice must be quickly extracted, filtered, purified and heated to crystallize as sugar. What’s left is the thick, dark, syrupy molasses. To make rum, molasses is fermented to create an alcohol that’s distilled and often aged in charred oak barrels. Rum can be white (colorless) or brown, depending on how it’s processed. Rum first appeared around 1650 in the Caribbean “sugar islands,” where the backbreaking work of growing cane and processing sugar was completely dependent on slave labor. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the sugar, rum and slave trades were triangular: American and European ships carried manufactured goods to barter for West African slaves; slaves were taken to the Caribbean to exchange for sugar, molasses and rum; these products were transported to New England and Europe. In Boston and New York, molasses was distilled into rum, the most popular tipple in the American colonies. “Rum is the history of America in a glass,” says Wayne Curtis, author of “And a Bottle of Rum.” “It was invented by New World colonists for New World colonists.” Rum’s popularity has ebbed and flowed over time; it fell from favor in the early 20th century but enjoyed a mid-century renaissance associated with Americans’ enthusiasm for island lifestyles and tiki culture. With today’s craft cocktails and spirits, artisan rums are again attracting serious attention.

RUM AND THE HISTORY OF SAN LEON San Leon, the home of Railean Rum, is an unincorporated town of about 5,000 on a small peninsula protruding into Galveston Bay. Surrounded on three sides by water, it’s an unprepossessing, freewheeling place that bills itself as “a small drinking community with a large fishing problem.” Shrimp and oyster boats, commercial seafood houses and recreational fish camps are San Leon’s lifeblood today. Much like rum, however, San Leon has serially reinvented itself, and San Leon’s relationship with rum is longstanding. From 1817 to 1820, the French pirate Jean Lafitte used San Leon’s natural harbor to land contraband goods and slaves brought from the Caribbean— local legend revels in Lafitte’s buried treasure at Eagle Point. And we know what these pirates of the Caribbean were drinking…what else but rum? In 1828, Amos Edwards received a San Leon land grant from Stephen F. Austin. Edwards’ son Monroe, a notorious slave smuggler, formed a company that developed the first short-lived town of San Leon, established in 1838, just as commercial sugar production—powered by slave labor—was burgeoning on nearby plantations. In adjacent Brazoria County, Martin Varner built a distillery on what is now the Varner-Hogg Plantation. The bottle of rum he sent to Stephen F. Austin in 1829 was some of the first spirits produced in Texas. San Leon was reinvented in 1892 as a manufacturing center called North Galveston, but it was smashed by the great 1900 hurricane that decimated Galveston Island. While the factories were gone forever, its fine hotel was rebuilt and the town—rechristened “San Leon”—rose from the ruins as a seaside resort. During Prohibition (1920 to 1933), Galveston Bay was a hotbed of illegal rum-running from the Caribbean into Texas. Additionally, domestic production of bootleg liquor was prevalent around the coast. San Leon was no exception—in 1921, flames from a moonshine still destroyed the San Leon Hotel. Today, San Leon’s many drinking establishments are legal, if sometimes rowdy. And Kelly Railean’s artisan distillery and Buccaneer Bar provide a spirited nod toward San Leon’s checkered and swashbuckling past.

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edible POLICY

GMOs A QUESTION OF FOOD DEMOCRACY BY M I C H E L E JACO BSO N

t’s nearly impossible to escape the ongoing genetically modified

According to Steven M. Druker, public interest attorney and au-

organism (GMO) debate. While many hold the strong opinion

thor of “Altered Genes, Twisted Truth,” the fact that GE foods are

that genetically engineered (GE) foods are unsafe, unhealthy and

even on the market is illegal and in violation of federal law. “If federal

downright evil, there are others who believe that they are the way

food safety laws were properly enforced, all GE foods would need

to feed an ever-growing world population. This is, after all, America,

to be recalled and required to have their safety confirmed through

and it is our right to have divergent points of view. However, over

rigorous testing via the formal food additive petition process,” says

the past few years, the public battle over GE food has become more

Druker. “Genetically engineered foods should be regarded as high-

confusing and contentious, with the biotech seed industry and Big

risk foods that have been inadequately tested. Their developers have

Ag on one side of the divide, and the 90 percent of Americans who

shunned the type of rigorous scientific experimentation that is

want to see GMOs labeled on the other. It could be argued that the

necessary in order to demonstrate that they are safe.”

GMO issue has become less about the science, and more about the consumers’ right to know what is in their food.

Opponents of mandatory GMO labeling argue that individual state laws would create a “patchwork effect” throughout the coun-

With no federal laws requiring the testing or labeling of GE foods,

try—confusing to the consumer and costly for food manufacturers.

American citizens, largely via grassroots efforts, have had to speak

This, according to Druker, is untrue. “The various states which have

up for themselves on this matter. There are currently eight GMO-

already drafted laws for mandatory GMO labeling have established

free zones in the U.S.: Trinity, Santa Cruz, Marin, Mendocino and

similar requirements that are comparable from state to state.” Fur-

Humboldt Counties (California); Jackson and Jefferson Counties

thermore, label-changing is routinely done by the food industry for

(Oregon); and Maui (Hawaii). The three states that have passed

new flavors, ingredients or for a variety of other marketing reasons.

mandatory labeling laws are Connecticut, Maine and Vermont.

The food industry uses higher food costs as a scare tactic in an effort

There is legislation for mandatory GMO labeling pending in 35

to manipulate the consumer against GMO labeling.

states. All of these hard-earned laws and regulations are in con-

The absence of a mandatory GMO labeling system has also

stant danger of being overturned if federal legislation to the

had an adverse effect on international trade. More than 60 coun-

contrary is passed, because federal law trumps state or local law.

tries around the world, including Australia, Japan and the entire

Americans recently escaped such a scenario when the Safe and

European Union, either require labeling or have imposed bans

Accurate Food Labeling Act of 2015 was introduced to Congress,

on the production and sale of GMOs. Lack of action on the part

but failed to pass through the Senate. Opponents of this legislation

of the U.S. has created import and export problems with those

coined it the “DARK” Act, an acronym for “Deny Americans the

countries. There have been instances when foods, or products

Right to Know.” Had this bill become law, it would have actually

containing non-approved crops, are refused entry at international

blocked states from labeling foods as containing GE ingredients,

ports for being in violation of the laws of the receiving country.

and further quashed any GMO legislation arising across the country. In March of this year, the Senate once again rejected a version of

Is Our Right to Know Endangered?

the Dark Act, but within the week, major packaged-food-producers,

It is widely known that a strong majority of Americans favor

including Campbell’s, General Mills, Mars, Kelloggs and ConAgra,

labeling of GE foods, and support for labeling is growing. We

vowed to start labeling products that contain GE ingredients—

cannot accept it as “politics as usual” when our federal govern-

mostly to satisfy the Vermont law, which will require this labeling

ment pushes legislation in the opposite direction of the will of

by July. However, they still lobby for a “voluntary federal standard

its citizens, especially when our food system is at stake. Should

for GMO labeling.”

Washington cater to its constituents, or to the lobbyists who

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BEVERAGE 2016

represent the corporate interests? Why do we vote if our inter-

question we need to ask ourselves is: Shouldn’t we be able to make a

ests are not represented by our chosen leaders?

choice when it comes to what we eat? While our reasons for wanting

The definition of food sovereignty is the right of all citizens to

to know what’s in our food may be different according to our culture

have healthful food, but also to be able to define their own food and

or the state in which we live, what should unify all of us is the belief

agriculture systems. No matter what we believe about GMOs, the

that it’s our basic right to know. Food democracy is on the line.

THE NEW SALMON ON YOUR DINNER PLATE The AquAdvantage Salmon is the first genetically engineered

The Orthodox Union—the kosher certification authority—claims it

(GE) animal approved by the FDA as safe for human consump-

is because the GE salmon has fins and scales, defining characteris-

tion, despite widespread public and environmental group oppo-

tics of a kosher fish. However, others cite the Torah’s prohibition on

sition. Initially, this fish was to be marketed as simply “Atlantic

mixing animal species together, as well as the inherent DNA from

salmon”—deceptive, because it is genetically engineered with

the eelpout, a fish that is not kosher.

DNA from both the Pacific king salmon and ocean eelpout. The

GE salmon have no nutritional advantage; indeed, they are a

artificially inserted genes induce the fish to grow to market size

farmed fish and thus are more questionable health-wise because

twice as fast as conventional salmon.

of increased saturated fat, pollutants, contaminants and antibiotic

If the AquAdvantage Salmon went unlabeled, it would be im-

use. Furthermore, should any escape into the wild salmon popula-

possible to tell it apart from other salmon at the market. More

tion (which AquaBounty Technologies, the company that produces

than 60 major retailers nationwide vowed to stand by their cus-

the salmon, says is “extremely unlikely”), the timeline for possible

tomers and refuse to sell it. In mid-December, Congress bowed to

extinction of the wild salmon species is 30 to 40 salmon genera-

consumer pressure, saying the GE fish would indeed be labeled

tions—a mere 120 to 280 years. This makes the ecological risk

as such, and could not be sold until it was. Now, the onus is back

immeasurable. There are currently 35 other genetically engi-

on the FDA to develop guidelines for mandatory labeling.

neered fish in the works, including tilapia and trout.

There is also controversy over whether the GE fish is kosher.

Which animal is next?

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farmers DIARY

AGUA DULCE FARM BY M O N I CA J O H N SO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY PAU L I N E ST EV E N S

n 2011, Jack Waite realized his dream of producing and sharing

loved the idea of combining fish and farming. It hit me hard.”

high-quality food when he founded Agua Dulce Farm—a dif-

Waite’s friends had been studying the concept with Growing

ferent breed of farm in southeast Austin. Waite admits he nev-

Power, a nonprofit farm founded by former basketball player Will

er planned on becoming a farmer, even though his childhood was

Allen, who has been advocating aquaponics for over two decades.

rooted in homegrown food. “Growing up, we always had a huge

Waite would eventually meet Allen in person—an event that

garden,” he says. “I’d go out with a salt shaker in hand and eat

remains a career highlight for him.

tomatoes right off the vine. Those were happy moments.”

Back in Austin, Waite thought the farming concept would be

Over years and various careers, growing food was never too far

a perfect fit for our temperamental climate. “I spent the next few

from Waite’s heart—even when he lived in a cramped apartment and

years thinking up my farm,” he says. “I read anything I could get

gardened out of containers. It was while living and working in Italy,

my hands on. I also researched other aquaponic farms, hydroponic

though, that something clicked. He noticed how the culture there

farms and conventional farms. And I did a lot of market research.”

treated food very differently from the culture back home. “People

When Waite found investors to fund his dream, he left the cu-

in Italy really care about where their food is coming from…and that

bicle world behind forever. But before any actual farming could

it’s healthy and prepared well,” he says. “It’s more of a community

be done, there were numerous hurdles to overcome: finding land,

experience, more than just putting calories in your body.”

acquiring proper urban-farming permits and figuring out what to

As Waite adopted a similar attitude, his connection toward

do when the consulting company he’d hired to help design and im-

food grew beyond gardening and sprouted into a passion. He

plement his system went belly-up and he was forced to learn the

was ready to transition to a career in food—he just wasn’t sure

ropes himself—and there was a sizable learning curve. “Everything

which way to go. Upon returning stateside, he visited friends in

was done in huge iterations where it could come collapsing down

Milwaukee who had just established an aquaponic farm where

to the ground,” says Waite.

they raised fish and grew produce. Waite was completely fasci-

One of his biggest challenges was the actual design of the farm.

nated with the contained, soilless system where fish and plants

There were only a few small buildings on the property, and Waite

work together symbiotically and naturally to produce food via

was frustrated with the high cost of building a sufficient structure

water. “I had never heard of aquaponics,” says Waite. “But I

for the fish to live in. “Then late one night, I came up with the idea to

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farmer,” says Todd Duplechan of Lenoir. “He’s willing to take risks and do things a lot of other farmers won’t, like grow unusual herbs that I request. He wants to give it a try.” Coined Agua Dulce (Sweet Water), Waite’s farm currently produces organic lettuce, leafy greens and specialty herbs, as well as native Texas Bluegill and Black Crappie. Because the farm uses water instead of soil, the pH levels are monitored closely. “It’s constant troubleshooting and adjusting,” says Waite. “We also need to feed the fish, usually twice per day. How well the fish are eating is also an excellent barometer of water quality. Happy fish equals healthy water.” Currently, Waite is focused on building relationships and ways to make the farm even more sustainable—something he’s earnest about. “I cringe a little when people call aquaponics a sustainable way of farming,” he says. “Because, in a lot of ways, it’s not. If Agua Dulce had solar panels and a well for our water source, it would be close to being fully sustainable.” But Waite believes this farming system has the potential to one day play an important role in the local food system. “I couldn’t dream of producing one percent of use shipping containers, and a friend suggested that I insulate them,”

food for Austin, capacity-wise, with my farm,” he says. “But what

he says. “These shipping containers could hold several tanks of fish,

if there were a bunch of aquaponic farms around the city, even

and by placing them close to the greenhouses, the water could easily

on rooftops?” And looking at the bigger picture, Waite anticipates

travel back and forth, nourishing both the fish and the plants.”

the concept could one day have a role in harnessing untapped re-

Finally, he had a functional system in place, and he began to

sources, such as utilizing the ocean to grow food or developing

build and develop relationships with local food producers, growers

innovative technology to grow food in outer space. All of these

and artisans, as well as espouse (to just about anyone who would

possibilities keep Waite inspired. “What the next big thing will be…

listen) the benefits of sustainability-friendly aquaponic farming.

that’s what gets me excited!”

Some of those listening were local chefs. “Jack is such a special

For more information, visit aguadulceaustin.com or call 512-658-5223.

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MAKING A MOCKERY BY L AU RA M C K I SSAC K • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY A L I SO N N A R RO

WATERMELON SHRUB Courtesy of Launderette (photo on previous page) Makes 1 serving 2 oz. watermelon shrub syrup ¾ oz. chili-basil syrup ½ oz. lime juice Pinch salt 1 oz. Topo Chico Lime wheel for garnish For the watermelon shrub syrup: 3 c. watermelon, cubed small 3 c. sugar 2 c. white balsamic vinegar 1 c. apple cider vinegar In a large bowl, combine the watermelon and sugar and stir well to coat. Cover the bowl and refrigerate overnight. The next day, mix together the vinegars in a small bowl and stir. Add the vinegars to the watermelon, stir and place back into the refrigerator. On the third day, fine strain the solids out and store the shrub syrup in the refrigerator until ready to use. For the chili-basil syrup: 4 c. water 4 c. sugar 3 jalapeños, chopped coarsely 1 serrano pepper, chopped coarsely 10–15 basil leaves Zest of 1 lemon Bring all ingredients to a slow boil. Allow to cool and fine strain (run through two strainers) into a container.

n Austin, a growing queue of talented mixologists is catering to patrons who want to enjoy the cutting-edge food, atmosphere and sophistication of our nightlife, but either can’t, or choose not

to, include alcohol in the mix. Enter the “mocktail.” One of the spike-less offerings that’s gained renewed popularity in recent years is the Prohibition-era drink, the shrub. Traditionally, a shrub is made from fruit vinegar and simple syrup topped off with sparkling water. Versions of it can be found around town at restaurants such as Launderette, Vinaigrette, The Hightower and Dai Due, where shrubs are seasonally inspired to include Texas-sourced ingredients, including lime, beets and hoja santa (an aromatic herb often used in Mexican cuisine). Part of the shrub’s charm is its versatility and fruity vinegar kick, but you don’t have to be a fan of vinegar to enjoy a great nonalcoholic mocktail. The trick is as much about sensation as it is taste. Kevin Liu, a writer for the website Serious Eats, says the key to a great mocktail is to consider some of the ways alcohol affects our senses, then replicate those elements to mimic the sensations. The first and most famous of these is the alcohol “burn.” If you’ve ever sipped strong liquor or done a shot, you’re familiar with the pleasant, flowering heat that’s created as the drink travels down the throat. To mimic this burn, Liu recommends adding ginger or hot chilies. Either can be boiled into a liquid concentrate or simple syrup, muddled into a shaker or juiced. Fresh ginger juice has a spicier, slightly more bitter kick than boiled ginger, which is mellower and a little sweet. Both add considerable flavor and warm-belly burn to a mocktail. Alcohol also lends an astringency and sometimes bitterness to a drink, which can be expressed via bitters (there are excellent bitters produced locally using local ingredients, such as the ¡Salud! line), a variety of vegetal tannins such as over-steeped black or green tea or boiled allspice berries or citrus rinds. And to rep-

To make the watermelon shrub, shake together all ingredients except the Topo Chico and double-strain into a Collins glass. Add ice and top with the Topo Chico. Lightly stir and garnish with a lime wheel.

licate the pleasantly woody and smoky qualities present in some types of alcohol like whiskey, Liu uses a faux “barrel-aged” simple syrup made from a kit. There are also flavored wooden rods like Time and Oak’s Whiskey Elements that are intended for flavoring whiskey, but can be dropped into any liquid and allowed to infuse the liquid with flavor. Liu’s “barrel-aged” cherry soda (recipe on

ANNIE PALMER

edibleaustin.com) is slightly astringent, slightly sweet and has

Courtesy of Laura McKissack Makes 1 serving

Whiskey Element rod was used in a jug of strong iced tea to create

just a hint of aged-whiskey flavor, but none of the alcohol. And a the refreshing “Annie Palmer” (recipe at right).

2 oz. infused black tea 3 oz. Fever-Tree bitter lemon soda Lemon wheel and fresh mint, for garnish For the infused black tea: Add one Whiskey Element rod (available online) to 1 gallon of brewed black tea and let the mixture infuse for 48 hours.

According to Jessica Sanders, co-owner of Drink.Well. and Backbeat, the goal with any nonalcoholic beverage is to preserve the flavor and texture of its boozy cousin. “All too often,” she says, “mocktails lack the body and complexity of their full-proof counterparts. Or worse, they’re laden with sugary juices or syrups. My approach is always to keep the end in mind—what kind of drink am I ultimately trying to emulate or recreate? If I’m trying to recreate something refreshing and light, I look for vibrant ingredients that mimic that style and

For the drink: To make the Annie Palmer, combine the tea with the soda, pour into an ice-filled rocks glass and garnish with the lemon wheel and mint.

would therefore steer clear of dense, heavy flavors.” If entertaining at home, impress your guests with some of these alternatives to the typical dinner party cocktail menu. Nothing says “deft host” like surprising a guest with selections or accommodations they weren’t expecting.

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STRAWBERRY BASIL SHRUB Courtesy of Robin Ozakiof The Hightower Makes 1 serving 1½ oz. strawberry basil shrub syrup Sparkling water, to taste For the strawberry basil shrub syrup: 1 pt. fresh strawberries 2–4 basil sprigs, to taste 4 c. sugar 1 qt. red wine vinegar Cover the strawberries and basil with the sugar. Refrigerate for 24 hours, then add the red wine vinegar. Let sit for another 24 hours, then stir to dissolve any remaining sugar and strain out the solids. Serve in a Collins glass over ice and top with sparkling water, to taste. (Strained solids can be reserved and made into jellies or sauces—they also have wonderful flavor.)

EAST INDIES FAUX-JITO Courtesy of Jessica Sanders of Backbeat Makes 1 serving 2 sprigs fresh Thai basil (or mint), plus more for garnish ¼ oz. Liber & Co. Fiery Ginger Syrup 2 oz. unsweetened coconut water 1 oz. Hondo Cane Company fresh Texas sugarcane juice ½ oz. fresh lime juice 1 oz. soda water, such as Topo Chico Muddle the Thai basil and ginger syrup in the bottom of a highball glass. Add coconut water, sugarcane juice and lime juice. Swizzle to incorporate. Fill another highball glass with crushed ice and add the mixture. Top with soda water, then garnish with a sprig of Thai basil.

THE PRE-JUNE 23RD* Courtesy of Justin Elliot of The Townsend Makes 1 serving ½ oz. grade B maple syrup ½ oz. raspberry syrup ¾ oz. lemon juice 1 oz. Earl Grey tea, brewed strong, then cooled Splash Salud! Aromatic Bitters Mint sprig For the raspberry syrup: Slowly simmer (as low as possible) equal parts, by weight, of fresh raspberries, granulated white sugar and water until the berries are very tender—about 15–20 minutes. Strain the mixture very, very gently and slowly through a fine mesh strainer into a lidded jar (avoid pushing or smashing the berries through the strainer). Store in the fridge until ready to use. For the drink: Combine everything with crushed ice in a Collins glass and swizzle. Top with aromatic bitters splash and a mint sprig. *June 23rd is when Justin’s pregnant wife will get to drink the hard stuff again.

BRÛLÉED PINEAPPLE Courtesy of Launderette Makes 1 serving 2 oz. juice from grilled pineapple ¾ oz. sage peppercorn syrup ½ oz. lemon juice 1 oz. ginger beer Mint sprigs, for garnish For the sage peppercorn syrup: 4 c. water 4 c. sugar 1½ T. pink peppercorns ¾ T. black peppercorns 2 sprigs sage Zest of 1 lemon

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To make the grilled pineapple juice, cut a whole pineapple lengthwise into eight pieces and grill until a medium char line develops. Remove the skin, juice the fruit and strain the solids. To make the sage peppercorn syrup, bring all the ingredients to a slow boil and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat and allow to cool and fine strain into a container. To assemble one drink, place the syrup, pineapple and lemon juices and ice into a cocktail shaker, shake then pour into a double-rocks glass (about a 6- to 8-ounce glass). Fill with ice, top with ginger beer, lightly stir and garnish with mint sprig. Keep any unused juice and syrup in the fridge for the next round.

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For the peach and Mexican mint marigold shrub syrup: 1 c. organic raw sugar 1 c. filtered water 2 ripe peaches, washed, pitted and diced 1 T. Mexican mint marigold leaves (reserve flowers for garnish) 1 c. organic apple cider vinegar Heat the sugar and water in a medium saucepan over low heat until the sugar dissolves. Add peaches and herbs and bring to a simmer. Heat the syrup until it changes to a dark peach color and the fruit looks tired. Add the apple cider vinegar and return to a simmer. Fine-strain and chill. Store in a mason jar in the refrigerator until ready to use. To make the shrub, combine the shrub syrup with the soda water in a tall glass (about 12 ounces) filled with ice. Garnish with Mexican mint marigold flowers.

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edible DIY

TEA BLENDS BY L AU RA M C K I SSAC K • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J E N N A N O RT H CU T T

here are countless tea blends on grocery store shelves for tea lovers, so why make your own at home? One answer is expense—you can save a lot of money by buying favorite

ingredients in bulk or growing them in your garden. The most compelling reason to make your own tea blends, though, is simply the ability to be adventurous and concoct flavors that aren’t available at the store. Once you’ve learned how to make and brew your own blends, the possibilities are endless. Keep in mind that the various tea bases have their own recommended water temperatures and brew times. Green tea, for example, is best brewed for no longer than three minutes at around 170 to 190 degrees, while black tea can be brewed a little longer and at a higher temperature range of 190 to 209 degrees, for three to five minutes. These are just basic guidelines, though. The important thing is to discover what your individual palate prefers. Just remember, if you want a stronger tea, simply add more leaves as opposed to extending the brew time, which releases more tannins and can make the tea bitter. Because the term “herbal tea” is more of a blanket term that includes flowers, fruit, woody stems, roots and seeds, there is no one perfect brewing temperature. Consensus seems to be to steep herbal teas for about five minutes at just below the boiling temperature, or 209 degrees, the same as black tea. Yet, more delicate herbs such as mint, or flowers such as chamomile, taste better when steeped at a lower temperature like that used for green tea. And other ingredients such as ginger or turmeric root can be boiled for several minutes. It can be confusing, but when considering brewing temperatures and times, consider the plants’ physical properties. If they seem delicate, start at the green tea temperature: 170 to 190 degrees, and brew for five minutes. If the flavor isn’t there, slowly increase the temperature but keep the brewing time the same. For woody stems, roots and barks, consider bringing out their essence with a full rolling boil, then simmer-

For a sweeter tea, try steeping local fresh or dried stevia leaves.

ing for five to 10 minutes—they can take the extra aggressiveness.

The difference between using fresh and dried herbs in a tea

Central Texas offers many local flavors that lend themselves to a

is usually just the amount required. Typically, about two to three

delicious cup of tea, and you can further enjoy the unique terroir of

times as much fresh plant material than dried is the recommen-

each blend knowing it came from your own backyard—either liter-

dation. And fresh ingredients can often benefit from a quick mud-

ally or figuratively speaking. The peel of Texas-grown Satsuma or-

dling in the pot or cup.

anges, the leaves and flowers of lemon balm, lavender, blueberry and

These recipes each make one, two-cup pot. They’re great for

even foraged ingredients, such as edible sumac, mint and yarrow,

the sniffles, or just as a healthful nightcap. Mullein is a most-

all make excellent teas. For a uniquely herbaceous flavor, consider

ly tasteless herb with great anti-inflammatory properties—the

herbs usually reserved for culinary use, such as parsley, sage or basil.

recipe calls for a lot because it’s rather fluffy. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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SPICY ROSEMARY TEA

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Makes 2 cups 1 2-inch piece raw ginger, peeled and sliced 2 6-inch sprigs of rosemary, or 1–2 T. dried 2–3 slivers of Satsuma or other fresh orange peel, or 2 t. dried Lemon and honey, to taste

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Place the ginger and orange peels in a teapot and cover with 2 cups of fresh water. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the rosemary. Cover to steep for 5 minutes. Strain over cup and add lemon and honey, to taste.

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CHAMOMILE AND GRAPEFRUIT PEEL TISANE Courtesy of Justin Chamberlain, beverage manager at Dai Due Makes 1 cup 4 T. freshly picked chamomile flowers 1 large peel of grapefruit, about 1-by-3-inches 8 oz. water Honey or sugar, optional

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Heat water to about 200°. Add flowers and peel to a French press and pour in the hot water. Cover and steep for 5 minutes. Serve in a tempered mug and add honey or sugar, if desired, to taste.

TEXAS FLOWER BLEND TEA Courtesy of Stefanie Lane Makes 1 cup 6–8 oz. filtered water 1 bloom purple coneflower 1 bloom passionflower 10 blooms borage 1 sprig spearmint Heat water to about 200°. Place clean flowers in a press or large mug and pour hot water over. Cover, steep 5 minutes and strain. The borage has a light, cucumber flavor while the passionflower has a unique flavor that mimics how it smells.

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kava = chill kava + lemonade = chiller GET BETTER TEA Makes 2 cups 2 T. dried mullein leaf, or 4 T. fresh 1 t. of your favorite tea base, such as green or rooibos ½ t. dried stevia leaf, or 1 t. fresh Lemon, to taste In a teapot, heat 2 cups of water according to your tea base: 170 to 190 degrees for green tea, 190 to 209 degrees for black, etc. Place mullein, tea base and stevia in a tea ball, add to the teapot and steep for 3 to 5 minutes according to which tea you’re using. Remove tea ball, pour into cup and add lemon, to taste.

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TEXAS FLOWER SUN TEA Courtesy of Stefanie Lane Makes 1 cup 1 gallon filtered water 3 or 4 handfuls or 60–80 borage blooms 5–6 large (4-inch) passionflower blooms

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In a large pitcher or jar, pour cold or room temperature water over blooms and set out in the sun for an hour or more. Strain and serve over ice. The blend has a light, refreshing cucumber/melon taste.

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edible BEAUTY

DIY HOME FACIAL Step One: Cleanse

FACING FACTS BY K AT H Y W H I T E P H OTO G R A P H Y BY J E N N A N O RT H C U T T

For all skin types: 1–1½ t. coconut oil or olive oil, or a premixed combination of oils that includes 10–30% castor oil Apply the oil in an upward, circular motion—massaging it into the skin. Leave on for five minutes then place a very warm, moist face cloth over the face for 30 to 45 seconds to lightly steam the face. Gently wipe off the oil with the face cloth.

Step Two: Exfoliate For normal to oily skin: 2 t. chickpea flour ½ t. turmeric 1 t. yogurt, goat milk or honey

or a healthy and youthful appearance, there is no substitute for beautiful skin. A flawless complexion, all by itself, can make you look many years younger than

you actually are. Achieving healthy, glowing skin actually begins on the inside, when you drink a steady supply of pure water, which hydrates and plumps the skin—filling in pores and wrinkles. Water also

For dry, mature or sensitive skin: 1 T. oat flour 1 t. plain yogurt, goat milk or honey With light pressure and using a circular, upward motion, apply exfoliate then rinse with warm water.

balances the oil sitting on the surface of the skin to help prevent acne breakouts, flushes toxins from the body and delivers nutrients to your cells. Eating fresh vegetables and fruit is another way to increase water consumption; many are comprised of more than 75 percent water. Also, fruits and veggies that are high in vitamins A and C help increase production of collagen, a protein that aids in keeping skin firm and elastic. Of course, cleansing and moisturizing the face are the basics to daily care, but sometimes they’re just not enough. Indoor heat in the winter can be incredibly drying to the skin—resulting in overall dryness or dry, flaky patches. And in warmer weather, skin may be damaged by overexposure to the sun, chlorine in swimming pools and even skin care products that contain harsh

Step Three: Steam (Skip this step if your skin is extremely sensitive or prone to broken capillaries.) Bring 3 quarts of water to a boil then remove from heat. Add ½ cup of dried herbs (any combination of chamomile, rose petals, lavender buds, peppermint leaf, rosemary or fresh citrus peels such as orange or lemon). Cover the pot and steep for 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the cover and place your face about 12 inches above the pot—drape a towel over your head to create a tent, and let the steam bathe your face for a few seconds. Lower the towel and raise your head to breathe some fresh air, then repeat for a total of 5 to 10 minutes.

synthetic ingredients (synthetic fragrance being the most frequent offender). But using facials and masks made from pure, natural ingredients is an excellent way to counteract the damage done to the skin and to revitalize complexions. Facials are cleansing beauty treatments that typically involve several steps, and they’re often performed by professional aestheticians in a spa or salon. Applying a face mask, however, is usually one of the steps in a facial. Both facials and face masks have specific functions, such as acne reduction, soothing and balancing, moisturizing, pore reduction or lifting and toning. A typical salon facial usually includes a mild cleanser, exfoliation,

Step Four: Tone For dry, mature and sensitive skin: Rose water For normal to oily skin: reen tea or chamomile tea, cooled to room temperature (reG frigerate for up to 4 days). Or use a mixture of 1 T. of good quality apple cider vinegar to 6 T. distilled water.

steaming, a toner, a face mask and a moisturizer. A complete facial can take around 30 to 45 minutes while a face mask can be done in 10 to 20 minutes. 48

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Spray on the toner with eyes closed, or use a cotton ball to apply over the face (avoid the eye area). Allow to air dry.

Step Five: Face Mask These masks can be used as part of the complete facial beauty treatment or as a stand-alone treatment.

DEEP MOISTURIZING FACE MASK 2 T. plain Greek yogurt 1 egg yolk 1 t. extra-virgin olive oil In a small bowl, combine all ingredients with a whisk and mix thoroughly. Apply to the face (avoiding the eye area) with a cotton ball or cosmetic square. Leave on the face for 15 to 20 minutes, then rinse with warm water and splash with cool water. Pat dry. Discard any leftover mask mixture and use only when made fresh. Mask may be used once per week and is recommended for dry, sensitive and mature skin. Also recommended for acne breakouts and sunburned skin.

REJUVENATING AND BRIGHTENING FACE MASK ¼ fresh, ripe papaya, peeled 2 t. raw honey ½ t. fresh lemon juice Puree the papaya in a blender or mash with a fork. Add the honey and lemon juice and mix well. Apply the paste to the face (avoid the eye area). Leave on for 15 to 20 minutes, then remove by rinsing with tepid water. Finish with a splash of cool water and a pat dry. Discard any leftover mask mixture and use only when made fresh. Mask may be used as often as twice a week and is recommended for all skin types.

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REFINING AND TIGHTENING FACE MASK 1 small ripe banana 1 egg white 1 t. apple cider vinegar or fresh lemon juice Put all ingredients in a blender and process until smooth. Apply to the face (avoiding the eye area) with a cotton ball or cosmetic square. Leave on for 10 to 15 minutes, then rinse off with warm water and splash with cool water. Pat dry. Discard any leftover mask mixture and use only when made fresh. May be used once per week and is recommended for oily skin.

Step Six: Moisturize Use a light, daytime moisturizer according to your skin type. Pure argan oil, watermelon seed oil or jojoba oil make excellent all-natural face moisturizers without any added scent. Try coconut oil or extra-virgin olive oil if your skin is very dry. Use one or two drops to spread over the entire face—concentrating on the driest areas. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

BEVERAGE 2016

IN A PICKLE BY KATE PAYNE • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JO ANN SANTANGELO

he world of fruit pickles opened up before me during a

microorganisms to thrive. Spices and aromatics are infused into

particularly lush summer of peaches while I was living in

the pickled matter by osmosis, which can be sped up with heat.

New York. I rolled home from the farmers market, with 14

Fruit is perhaps not commonly thought of as solid pickle materi-

pounds of peaches, to my basement apartment in Brooklyn—my

al, but tracing back through southern favorites we find watermel-

getaway vehicle being a bike with a storage rack, a tangle of

on rind pickles (made from the scraps of a melon) and gingery,

assorted bungees and a 10-pound Chihuahua-Jack Russell mix

spiced pickled peaches, or hopping the ocean, we find chutneys

accomplice perched like a cherry on top of the mess. (We literally

and tangy fruit spreads spanning many ethnic traditions.

rolled without a car in those days.)

Pickling fruit is an excellent alternative to turning it into jam

After the spectacle of getting my weekend peach extravagan-

for those who are not big fans of sweet preserves. Fruit pickles are

za home, there was only so much jam and sauce I could stand to

more complex, a more grown-up incarnation. My all-time favorite

make in my hot little kitchen. I always joke that it’s a wonder I ever

use for pickled fruit is using the brine for shrub cocktails and

canned again after that first foray into sealing jars via water-bath

dropping in the pickled fruit as a garnish.

canning. It turns out that I prefer to be a small-batch canner, not a

These canning recipes work well using a water-bath for lon-

put-up-the-entire-harvest kind of canner. One of the projects that

ger-term storage, but I prefer to just pickle small batches and

my ripe-and-ready peaches endured and excelled at was a single jar

store them in the refrigerator, where they stay firmer. I encour-

of refrigerator pickles. In subsequent years, with way fewer peach-

age lots of experimentation, as fruit will evolve throughout the

es, I’ve reserved more for this particular delicacy, canned them,

course of the season. Early-season fruits tend to be a bit more

conservatively gifted them and proceeded to hoard the remainder.

tart, but the later they hang on, the sweeter they become. Exper-

Pickling is the process of either pouring an acidic solution

imenting with non-sugar sweeteners is also welcome, although

over fruits and vegetables or using salt or a saltwater brine to en-

they can produce darker brines and generally deeper, more mo-

courage the growth of lactic acid-producing bacteria; both meth-

lasses-like flavors. When using a sugar-alternative, I will some-

ods promote an environment too acidic for spoiler bacteria and

times add a bit of organic citrus zest to brighten things up.

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Serve pickled fruit as an appetizer on a cheese tray with crackers, tossed into salads or during the main course with meats such as pork chops or roasted chicken. Pour some of the brine into salad dressings or marinades (after the shrub cocktails are made, of course!). Don’t let the fun stop before dessert; spoon fruit pickles over ice cream for a tangy twist on the sweet portion of the evening. True pickle lovers will even enjoy these mixed in with their morning yogurt.

PICKLED BLUEBERRIES Yields 8 ounces 1 c. blueberries, washed ½ c. organic distilled white vinegar ¼ c. sugar 3 T. water ¼ lemon, sliced thinly 1 cinnamon stick, broken into pieces

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Special equipment: 1 8-oz. jar Wash the jar with warm, soapy water and do not dry. Pack the blueberries into the jar and set aside while you create the brine. In a small, nonreactive saucepan, bring the remaining ingredients to a simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the brine from the heat and pour over the berries through a fine-mesh strainer. Cap loosely and allow the jar to cool on the countertop for an hour before placing the jar in the refrigerator. Begin eating blueberry pickles after 1 week, and consume within 6 months for best flavor. Use the leftover brine for shrub cocktails or sodas—using 1 tablespoon for every 6 ounces of club soda.

PICKLED PEACHES Yields approximately 1 quart 1 c. organic distilled white vinegar ¾ c. water 1 c. sugar ½ cinnamon stick, crushed 4 allspice berries 3 cloves 2 lbs. peaches Special equipment: 1 qt. jar Combine all the ingredients except for the peaches and bring to boil in a large nonreactive saucepan. Reduce the heat and let mixture simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside. Peel the peaches by bringing a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Mark an “x” with the tip of a paring knife across the bottom of each peach—cutting only deep enough to slice the skin. Drop the peaches into the boiling water and let them sit for about 30 seconds to 1 minute. Remove the peaches—placing them into an ice bath to stop the cooking. Return the brine mixture to the stove over low heat. Peel and halve the peaches (removing the pits) and place the peaches into the saucepan to simmer for 5 to 10 minutes (shorter for riper peaches, longer if they are less ripe). Ladle simmered peaches and brine into a 1-quart mason jar. Follow cooling and storage recommendation for Pickled Blueberries.

Find Kate’s Pickled Tangerines recipe on edibleaustin.com

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edible GARDEN

OKRA: OUR HUMBLE HERO BY SA RA H J. N I E LS E N

hen I moved out of the city

of David variety—which when sliced

and into my little house

crosswise, reveals a six-sided star in-

in the farthest reaches of

side—grows to a towering 7 feet and has purple coloration on its leaves.

Travis County farm country, I was completely prepared for setting in my

It’s possible that okra might be

garden, posthaste. The Memorial Day

the most sustainable food we can

flood postponed the implementation

grow in our gardens in Central Texas,

of any grand designs, but eventually,

too. A native of West Africa, it’s both

it happened: 10 beds, each 4 feet wide

nutritionally rich and quite happy as

and 25 feet long, gently lifted and aer-

a low-maintenance, dry-land crop—

ated with my broad-fork and imbued

whatever falls from the sky is usually

with rich organic cotton burr and

enough. It also thrives as a rotation

dairy cattle compost. Obviously de-

crop because it digs deep taproots

termined, yet still a greenhorn in my

to feed itself—reaching nutrients far

enthusiasm, I seeded one entire bed

beneath shallow, hungry crops such

with okra seed. When I proudly told

as corn, spring wheat and some types

my new neighbors—who are both

of legumes. Because of this, I intend

seasoned farmers and gardeners—

to follow my okra patch with peppers

they raised polite eyebrows and held

and tomatoes, which are notoriously

their tongues. I soon learned why. Not only did I harvest enough okra to stock the freezers of all my

Okra

hungry. Tomatoes and peppers also

Abelmoschus esculentus

have deep root systems, so by leaving the roots of my okra plants in-ground

friends and neighbors and then some, but I harvested enough to

after harvest season ends, new pathways become available for early

cook, pickle, freeze and can my own, to excess. I still have pounds

tomatoes to dig deep and feed well. I also use okra leaves as mulch

and pounds of it, prepped and bagged in the bottom of the chest

over the winter. And finally, okra plants also act as a trap crop for

freezer. Okra is an extremely generous plant in its fruiting—a few

pests and antagonists and are naturally pest-resistant, as well.

plants are plenty for most families. And its flowers are sure to de-

Okra is a blessing to both the garden patch and the plate, but

light—they’re like hibiscus flowers, from the same mallow family,

many confess to avoiding the fruit because of its dreaded slime (the

and grace the garden with bright pops of white, yellow and shades

mucilage surrounding the seeds). Though oft-maligned, that slime

of pink. The trouble is that each beautiful flower makes an okra pod,

is really something magical: It serves as a natural thickener in soups

and I had thousands of them.

and stews, and it’s a way to make hungry stomachs feel fuller when

A wonderful result of okra’s famed productivity is the wide vari-

the rest of the meal is thin in substance. Even though I’m a fan of

ety of heirloom seed available. There are okra varieties in different

the slime, the secret to avoiding it is in the preparation of the okra.

colors, shapes and sizes—short and fat, long and thin, red or purple

Parboiling the pods and then immersing them in an ice bath drasti-

or practically any shade of green, and with spines or without—and

cally reduces the slime factor by breaking down cell walls. Cutting

heirloom varieties of okra have long been planted in this area. For

the okra into rings and freezing it in serving-size bags also reduces

example, the Hill Country Red variety has pink-red-tinged fruit (the

the slime, as does cooking it in liquid for 20 minutes or longer, as in

Seed Savers Exchange suggests it’s an excellent pickling variety, so

a gumbo or stew. And pickling is another remedy.

I intend to try it this coming summer); the Red Burgundy type produces a long, thin pod with deep burgundy coloration; and the Star 52

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However it’s prepared, this often-misunderstood, yet easy-growing and gloriously versatile garden friend deserves a second look.

SIMPLE OKRA STEW Serves 4 3 T. olive oil 1 16-oz. bag frozen okra rounds or 8 small pods cut into rounds 12 pearl onions 1 medium head of garlic, peeled, crushed and chopped

½ t. dried oregano Salt, to taste Fresh black pepper, to taste 1 14.5-oz. can whole tomatoes diced, juice reserved 1–2 T. lemon juice

Heat the oil over high heat and pan-fry the okra for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove to a bowl. Add the onions to the pan and cook until softened. Lower the heat and return the okra to the pan. Add the garlic, oregano, salt and pepper and stir until the garlic turns golden. Add the tomatoes, the reserved juice and the lemon juice. Cook until the okra has softened and the pan sauce has thickened slightly. Adjust the salt, if necessary. This stew can be cooled in the fridge and served cold as a side with pita or another unleavened bread such as naan, or it can be served hot. It can also be served with couscous, white rice or a variety of meats (lamb or kebabs).

SARAH’S OKRA PICKLES Makes about 6 pint jars 12 c. baby okra (no bigger than 4 inches long), woody stem gently removed (avoid cutting into okra cap) 2 doz. pearl onions (substitute 3 medium onions of your choice, sliced), peeled 6 hot peppers (I use hot Hungarian wax or yellow banana peppers for less heat), sliced lengthwise ½ c. salt (preferably canning salt, but not necessary) 5 c. white vinegar (there might be extra liquid) ¼ c. granulated sugar 2 T. ground turmeric 2 T. mustard seeds 1 t. celery seeds 3 heads of garlic, peeled, germ removed 6 (or more) fresh dill fronds Combine the okra, onions, peppers and salt and let stand until they begin to release liquid. Meanwhile, clean and sterilize the jars and lids. Rinse the okra, onions and peppers. In a large stainless saucepan (or an enameled iron pan) combine the vinegar, sugar and dried spices. Bring to a boil and dissolve the sugar. Taste the liquid and adjust, if necessary (if you want it sweeter, as is traditional, add more sugar—up to 2 cups total.) Stir in the okra, onions, peppers and garlic and return to a boil. Cook for about 5 minutes, then remove from the heat. Using a slotted spoon, pack the vegetables into the jars—arranging the pepper slices nicely around the outside for presentation—and add one dill frond (or more) to each jar. Add the liquid to fill—leaving ½- to 1-inch headspace—and poke around in each jar to release any air bubbles. Adjust the liquid if necessary. Wipe the rims of the jars and apply the lids and bands. (Please consult the USDA’s Complete Guide to Home Canning at nchfp.uga for information on applying lids—it’s a crucial step in preventing botulism.) Place the jars in the canner and add water, making sure there is at least 1 inch of water on top of jars. Cover, bring to a boil and process for 10 minutes. Take the lid off the canner and wait a few minutes, then remove the jars to a cool place. (I put a towel on the countertop and place the jars on top, leaving them to cool untouched for 24 hours.) I recommend leaving these pickles alone to get good and happy for a couple of weeks before devouring an entire jar by yourself.

A New Infusion for an Old Friend

General Store

501 Bastrop Hwy, Austin 512-385-3452 Monday-Saturday 8am to 6pm

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BEVERAGE 2016

LA CASITA DE BUEN SABOR

GAZPACHO BORRACHO BY LU C I N DA H U TSO N

the

This snookered soup

season for eating

lends itself perfectly to fi-

ooray!

It’s

outdoors—starlit

esta menus and presenta-

suppers, Sunday brunches

tions. Show off its vibrant

and fiestas al fresco. On

colors by serving it from

weekends, many Tex-Mex

chilled, clear glass bowls

families celebrate tardea-

or long-stemmed jumbo

das—leisurely,

afternoon

margarita glasses rimmed

backyard gatherings. Rev-

with fresh lime juice and

elers mingle around pot-

seasoned

luck dishes (and some-

bowls individually or set

times

piñatas),

fajitas

salt.

Garnish

condiment

“bar”

sizzle on the grill and

nearby with small bowls

children chase each other

of avocado, mango, pine-

or play lotería with their

apple and jicama cubes

tías y abuelitas. Some-

sprinkled with fresh lime

how,

juice,

cervezas

seem

toasted

unsweet-

disappear from full ice chests. My tardeadas get-togethers take

ened coconut flakes, lime wedges, chopped green onions, cilantro

place around my outdoor cantina with its welcoming sign, “LA

and mint.

LUCINDA CANTINA…TEQUILA-MUSIC-DANCING,” and I’ve created a fun “adult” recipe just for such occasions!

Serve gazpacho borracho as a first course, or as a meal garnished with fresh-from-the-grill unpeeled shrimp seasoned with a

Gazpacho, Spain’s beloved chilled and sassy soup, always

piquant red ancho chile, garlic, comino and coriander seed spice-

makes enticing party fare. Its rich and flavorful tomato base—

rub. Spear the shrimp, chunks of pineapple and red bell peppers

emulsified with tangy vinegar and olive oil—has freshly chopped

and cucumber slices on bamboo skewers and place horizontally

tomatoes, crunchy cucumbers, peppers and onions in every tasty

across the serving bowl. Or greet guests with a tray of shot glass-

spoonful. I invite some Mexican bravado to this Andalusian fa-

es filled with ice-cold pureed gazpacho borracho and accompa-

vorite by adding a secret ingredient: tequila! In honor of the spirit

nying shots of tequila, if you wish. This gazpacho even makes a

of spring and the upcoming golden days of summer, I’ve created

splendid springtime or summer dessert, served similar to fruit

a new gazpacho recipe using fresh pineapple and tropical flavors

compote. Garnish with toasted unsweetened coconut and crispy

instead of traditional tomatoes. I call this recipe “gazpacho borra-

cinnamon tostadas (make them by frying flour tortilla wedges in

cho” since I fortify it with tequila, too.

hot oil until golden crisp, then drain on a brown paper grocery

Silver tequila (also known as blanco or “white”) has a fresh-

bag and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar).

from-the-still, sweet agave taste with peppery, herbaceous and

To perk up the party, have a chilled bottle of silver tequila in

citrus nuances—perfect for enhancing the zesty flavors in this

an ice bucket on hand for celebratory shots (or to add more to the

recipe. Before chilling the soup, generously spike it. (For those

soup!). Use varied shot glasses, small snifters or cordial glasses

not partaking in tequila, simply add pineapple juice, coconut wa-

to mix-and-match for the occasion. Remember, sip and savor the

ter and/or orange juice in its place.)

tequila—don’t shoot it in one big gulp!

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LUCINDA’S GAZPACHO BORRACHO Makes about 10 cups I love the texture of this gazpacho when ingredients are diced by hand. If you prefer a smoother soup, or to sip it in a shot glass, simply puree the ingredients in a blender or food processor—reserving some of the diced pineapple, golden pepper, cucumber and red onion to add for texture/garnish. 1 large pineapple, peeled, cored and diced (about 4 cups) 1 mango, diced 1 golden bell pepper, seeded, diced 1 English cucumber, diced ½ small red onion, diced 2 t. minced, fresh ginger 2 or more serranos or jalapeños, minced ¼ c. chopped combination of fresh cilantro and fresh mint Salt, to taste Crushed dried red cayenne, to taste (optional) 2 c. (approximately) pineapple juice, coconut water or orange juice (or any combination) 1 c. chilled 100% agave silver tequila 3 T. fresh lime juice Place the diced fruits and vegetables in a large glass bowl. Mix in the ginger, jalapeños or serranos, cilantro/mint and season with salt and cayenne. Add the juice, tequila and lime juice and chill at least 4 hours or overnight. (The flavor of the tequila will mellow.) Because fruit flavor varies, taste to adjust the balance of sweet and acidic—add more tequila, fruit juice and/or lime juice, as needed. Serve ice-cold in chilled bowls or pureed in shot glasses. Hints and Tips: • Sweeten lightly with brown sugar or agave syrup, if needed. • Add diced jicama. • Dice extra cucumber, red onion, golden pepper, jalapeños, serranos, cilantro and mint for garnish. • When serving in a bowl, whisk in a few tablespoons of avocado oil right before presenting, or drizzle some oil on top before garnishing.

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CENTRAL TEXAS FOOD BANK

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ast year, Capital Area Food Bank distributed 34 million

pounds of food, but despite our best efforts, we still couldn’t keep up with the growing need. Because we’re committed to feeding everyone facing hunger, we’ll open our new food bank this June. Located in southeast Austin, the new warehouse has more than double the square footage of our current facility and five times the refrigeration and freezer capacity, allowing us to distribute more fresh fruit and produce. And along with the new space, we’re thrilled to announce our new name: Central Texas Food Bank. We believe this name better reflects our commitment to everyone in the 21 Central Texas counties that make up our service territory. These changes couldn’t have come at a better time. Every summer, families struggle to choose between their electric bill and groceries, or between the expense of summer childcare and a family meal. These families are much like Taylor’s, who moved to Elgin when the cost of living in Austin was no longer manageable. Taylor and her husband Mark were able to get a home big enough for their family of four by leaving the city. “It’s so expensive in Austin,” she says. “They have a lot of low-income properties, but they’re full or their waitlist is really long.” Taylor and Mark still have to cut corners to help make ends meet—such as sharing a car to commute to Austin for work or sometimes skipping meals so their children have enough to eat. Also, in the summer their utility costs soar and a free school lunch is not available. At this critical time, Taylor and Mark rely 5011 BURNET RD.

on our children’s programs to provide a balanced meal for their growing youngsters. As we expand, we’re working hard to serve every corner of Central Texas so that all parents in need can keep

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their children happy and healthy year-round. To make our mission possible, we need your help. We’re raising funds to provide one million meals this summer to help families like Taylor’s all over Central Texas. We hope you’ll help us reach our goal with your generous donations. And feel free to stop by our new facility to see how we’re coming together as a community to fight hunger.

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BACK OF THE HOUSE

HOPS & GRAIN BY MELANIE GRIZZEL

he process of brewing beer begins early at Hops & Grain

on its way to the fermentors, where it meets yeast for the first

craft brewery. Even before the sun rises, brewer Danny Clay

time. The yeast goes to work on the sugars—converting them into

has already measured out the grain for his long-standing

alcohol and carbon dioxide. Each day, in various stages of the

recipe, then milled and mixed it. The raw grain is then transferred

process, samples are taken from the tanks and tested by Bob

into the mash tun where it’s added to hot water and steeped like

Langner, the operations manager who doubles as a lab technician.

tea, causing the starches to break down into simple sugars. The

Langner tests the samples for a number of things, including

resulting sweet, sticky liquid known as “wort” is then transferred

contaminants and inconsistent flavors, but primarily he needs to

to a boiling kettle where the temperature is brought up to 212

know how the yeast is reacting and at what pace. When it’s time,

degrees. At this point, the first round of hops is added to the mix

the beer is moved into the bright tanks, carbon dioxide is added

to imbue flavor, bitterness and aroma. The hot wort is then cooled

and the delicious process is complete. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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Previous page: Clay taking a look at the fresh wort before it’s moved into the boiling kettle. Opposite page: Spent grains and malt coming out of the mash tun. Hops & Grain uses some of the spent grain to make tasty dog treats (available in their tasting room). The balance is sold to local farmers for animal feed. Langner testing beer samples in the lab. Cans of Hops & Grain’s popular beer “The One They Call Zoe” coming off the canning line. Teams of three can 550 cases per day, three to four days a week. Kegs being cleaned and sterilized before being refilled and sent back out again. This page: Hops & Grain’s commitment to quality and consistency includes a weekly meeting—a sensory development program—where employees are asked to sample, smell and rate different beers and their components to help refine their palates. This particular week, the staff got to experience “esters”—a mixture of compounds produced during fermentation. All beers have esters but in varying flavors and amounts.

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Visit Bug-Bouncer.com to find a local retailer near you

STORY AND NUTRIFACTS AT: DOSLUNASCHEESE.COM

THE DIRECTORY ARTISANAL FOODS Antonelli’s Cheese Shop We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily. 512-531-9610 4220 Duval St. antonellischeese.com

Edis Chocolates Handmade chocolate truffles and fine desserts, free of preservatives, additives and made with fair trade chocolate. Excellent gluten-free options. 512-795-9285 3808 Spicewood Springs Rd., Ste. 102 edischocolates.com

Delysia Chocolatier Handcrafted in Austin. Our products are handmade using fine quality, sustainable chocolate and only the freshest ingredients. 512-413-4701 2000 Windy Terrace, Suite 2C delysia.com

Lick Honest Ice Creams Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer! Handmade in small batches in our Austin kitchen. Natural, local and seasonal. 512-363-5622 1100 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 35 512-609-8029 6555 Burnet Rd. ilikelick.com

BAKERIES Blue Note Bakery

Lone Star Meats is a family-owned wholesale meat company, whose mission is to source and deliver the finest cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb to tables across Texas. 512-646-6220 1403 E. 6th St. lonestarfood.com

Sweet Ritual Artisanal microcreamery featuring 17 flavors of alternative ice cream - made with cashew, almond and coconut bases. Gluten-free options. Dairy and egg free. 512-666-8346 4500 Duval St. sweetritual.com

Wholy Bagel Wholy Bagel prepares scratch-made New York style bagels daily. 512-899-0200 4404 W. William Cannon Dr. wholybagelatx.com

Texas Hills Vineyard

Experience chef-inspired dining at our intimate winery with breathtaking Hill Country views at Compass Rose Cellars in Hye, TX. Worth the journey. 830-868-7799; 1197 Hye-Albert Rd., Hye compassrosecellars.com

Winemaking, wine sales, tasting room, patio for picnics, gifts, award-winning wines, fun-loving staff and a beautiful place to visit. 830-868-2321 878 RR 2766, Johnson City texashillsvineyard.com

Blue Note Bakery is Austin’s premier custom cake shop, meticulously creating one-of-a-kind desserts for your special occasions. 512-797-7367 4201 S. Congress Ave., Ste. 101 bluenotebakery.com

Lewis Wines

Tiny Pies

Since 1997 Live Oak Brewing Co. has brewed authentic Central European style beers for people who enjoy the flavor of beer. 512-580-4265 1615 Crozier Ln., Del Valle liveoakbrewing.com

Tiny Pies are just like grandma made only smaller. Both savory & sweet. We cater, offer corporate gifting ideas, deliver locally & ship nationally. 512-916-0184 5035 Burnet Rd. tinypies.com

BEVERAGES Barons Creek Vineyards Visit our new winery for excellent wines, overnight accommodations, private tastings, gift shop, hill country tower views and onsite events. 830-330-4052 5963 Hwy. 290 E., Fredericksburg baronscreekvineyards.com

Becker Vineyards Winery, vineyards, and tasting room with wines for tasting and for sale. Lavender fields, lavender products and annual Lavender Fest. 830-644-2681 464 Becker Farms Rd., Stonewall beckervineyards.com

Bending Branch Winery Lone Star Meats

Compass Rose Cellars

Bending Branch Winery is a premier Hill Country winery with award-winning wines, including our signature Texas Tannat. Visit us Thurs-Sun. 830-995-2948 142 Lindner Branch Trl., Comfort 830-995-3394 704 High St., Comfort bendingbranchwinery.com

Bloody Revolution Bloody Revolution Gourmet Mixes From Austin, TX comes a nothing-else-needed Bloody Mary Mix that’s as great for cocktails as it is for cooking. Start a REVOLUTION! bloodyrevolution.com

Cibolo Creek Brewing Co. A place to kick back and meet your neighbors in a family friendly atmosphere, while enjoying house brewed beer and eating fresh pub food. 254-979-1988 488 S. Main St., Boerne cibolocreekbrewing.com

Boutique producer of 100% Texas wines in Johnson City, Texas. 512-987-0660 3209 Hwy. 290 W., Johnson City lewiswines.com

Live Oak Brewing Co.

Lost Draw Cellars Lost Draw Cellars produces stellar Texas wines from our vineyards in the Texas High Plains, sourcing grapes for some of the best wineries in the state. 830-992-3251 113 E. Park St., Fredericksburg lostdrawcellars.com

Paula’s Texas Spirits Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur & Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur—all natural and handmade in Austin since 2006. Available throughout Texas. paulastexasspirits.com

Spec’s Wine Spirits and Finer Foods Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’ largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more! 512-366-8260 4970 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981 13015 Shops Pkwy., Bee Cave 512-366-8300 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com

Texas Keeper Ciders Small-batch cider made in south Austin from 100% apples. Available in stores, bars, and restaurants throughout Austin, Houston, and DFW areas. 512-910-3409 12521 Twin Creeks Rd. texaskeeper.com

Tito’s Handmade Vodka Tito’s Handmade Vodka is handcrafted from 100% corn and distilled six times by Tito Beveridge in Austin, TX at America’s original microdistillery. Gluten-free! 512-389-9011 titosvodka.com

Twin Liquors Family owned and Authentically Austin™ since 1937, Twin Liquors helps customers match wine and spirits to every occasion. 75 Central Texas locations. 1-855-350-TWIN (8946) 512-451-7400 1000 E. 41st St. #810 512-402-0060 3525 Market St., Bee Cave 512-872-4220 210 University Blvd, Ste. 120, Round Rock twinliquors.com

BOOKSELLERS BookPeople Texas’ leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years! 512-472-5050 603 N. Lamar Blvd. bookpeople.com

CATERING AND MEAL DELIVERY Coté Catering

SquareRüt Kava Bar Kava is known to ease anxiety and stress as well as relax your muscles while bringing clarity to your mind. Come chill out at SquareRüt Kava Bar. 512-452-5282 1601 Barton Springs Rd. 5000 N. Lamar Blvd. squarerut.com

Coté Catering is a boutique farm-totable catering company dedicated to creating exciting, fresh cuisine for weddings, parties, and events of all kinds. Our seasonal, sustainable menus will entertain and delight your guests. 512-230-2366 cotecatering.com

Texas Coffee Traders

Foodee

East Austin’s artisinal coffee roaster and one-stop shop offering a wide selection of certified organic and fair trade options for wholesale and retail. 512-476-2279; 1400 E. 4th St. texascoffeetraders.com

Foodee delivers best in class food from your favorite local restaurants direct to your office. Group meals and catering have never tasted so good! 1-844-8FOODEE food.ee

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communities publications Get to know the farmers in the Finger Lakes, the artisans of Michiana, the vintners in Vancouver and more as we serve up the best local food stories from the fields and kitchens of Edible Communities. edible BLUE RIDGE

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Pink Avocado

Royalty Pecan Farms

Peoples Rx Pharmacy and Deli

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center

A custom catering company specializing in tailored menus, incredible food, and surprisingly good professional service. 512-656-4348 401 Sabine St., Ste. B pinkavocadocatering.com

A family owned & operated pecan farm featuring a gift shop, event venue and tourist attraction. Great source for fresh Texas pecans, pies, breads and gifts. 979-272-3904 10600 State Hwy. 21 E., Caldwell royaltypecans.com

Since 1980, Austin’s favorite pharmacy keeps locals healthy through Rx compounding, supplements and prescriptions, holistic practitioners and natural foods. 512-459-9090 4018 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-444-8866 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-327-8877 4201 Westbank Dr. 512-219-9499 13860 Hwy 183 N. peoplesrx.com

The Wildflower Center is a native plant botanic garden, a university research center and one of the 1,000 places to see before you die. 512-232-0100 4801 La Crosse Ave. wildflower.org

Spoon & Co. Catering It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew! 512-912-6784 spoonandco.com

EDUCATION Austin Independent School District Reinventing the public school experience - Austin ISD student scores exceed state and national averages on SAT. Visit your local school today. 512-414-1700 1111 W. 6th St. austinisd.org

FINANCIAL Capital Farm Credit Capital Farm Credit is your financial lending partner, providing loans for recreational land, home loans and small and large acreage tracts. 512-892-4425 5900 Southwest Pkwy., Ste. 501 512-715-9239 301 W. Polk St., Burnet 979-968-5750 456 N. Jefferson St., La Grange 512-398-3524 1418 S. Colorado St., Lockhart 830-626-6886 426 S. Seguin Ave., New Braunfels capitalfarmcredit.com

The Natural Epicurean At The Natural Epicurean, we train professional chefs, health coaches, and consumers in plant-based health-supportive culinary techniques. 512-476-2276 1700 S. Lamar Blvd. naturalepicurean.com

FARMERS MARKETS Lone Star Farmers Market Providing fresh fruits, vegetables and quality products. Located at The Shops at the Galleria every Sunday from 10 am–2 pm in the Lowe’s parking lot. 512-924-7503 12611 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 100, Bee Cave lonestarfarmersmarket.com

Sustainable Food Center SFC cultivates a healthy community by strengthening the local food system and improving access to nutritious, affordable food. 512-236-0074 400 W. Guadalupe St. 3200 Jones Rd., Sunset Valley 4600 Lamar Blvd. 2921 E. 17 St., Bldg C (Office) sustainablefoodcenter.org

FARMS Burg's Corner Fredericksburg peches. Local fruit and vegetable stand. Peach ice cream. Peach cider. Over 100 Texas gourmet jarred products. Sweet snacks and gifts. 830-644-2604 15194 E. US Hwy 290, Stonewall burgscorner.com

GROCERS Royal Blue Grocery Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer—with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format. Catering too! 512-499-3993; 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700; 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888; 609 Congress Ave. 512-386-1617; 301 Brazos St., Ste. 110 512-480-0061; 51 Rainey St. royalbluegrocery.com

Wiseman Family Practice Wiseman Family Practice is an integrative medical practice in Austin, Tx that focuses on health education and natural approaches to wellness. 512-345-8970 2500 S. Lakeline Blvd. Ste. 100, Cedar Park 300 Medical Arts St. 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. wisemanfamilypractice.com

HOUSEWARES AND GIFTS Callahan’s General Store Austin’s real general store…hardware to western wear, from feed to seed! 512-385-3452 501 S. Hwy. 183 callahansgeneralstore.com

Der Küchen Laden Retail gourmet kitchen shop, featuring cookware, cutlery, bakeware, small electrics, textiles and kitchen gadgets. 830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com

Selling the highest quality natural and organic products. 512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd. 512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon wholefoodsmarket.com

HEALTH AND BEAUTY DITI Imaging DITI Imaging is South Texas’ leading thermography provider with over 10 years experience providing a pain-free, radiation-free means of breast screening. 210-705-1232 866-409-2506 Austin, Wimberley, Boerne, Kerrville and New Braunfels ditiimaging.com

We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices. 512-288-6113 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com

Shoal Creek Nursery Wide selection of high quality plants, shrubs, trees, imported pottery, gardening supplies, soils/mulches and gifts. Highly experienced, friendly staff. 512-458-5909 2710 Hancock Dr. shoalcreeknursery.com

LODGING AND TOURISM Bastrop Culinary District With over 18 restaurants and 11 food related businesses, historic downtown Bastrop has something for every palate. Come visit and experience the food! 512-303-0904 visitbastrop.com

Brenham/Washington County CVB Visit Brenham and Washington County, home of the birthplace of Texas, Washington-on-the-Brazos State historic site. scenic drives, wineries and great lodging. 979-836-3696 115 W. Main St., Brenham visitbrenhamtexas.com

Bullock Texas State History Museum

The Herb Bar Whole Foods Market

Natural Gardener

Best place to cure what ails you and a healing resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate. 512-444-6251 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com

LANDSCAPE AND GARDENING Barton Springs Nursery Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments. Beautiful gifts. 512-328-6655 3601 Bee Cave Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net

It’s About Thyme Garden Center Top quality culinary herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocket-friendly prices. Free lectures most Sundays. 512-280-1192 11726 Manchaca Rd. itsaboutthyme.com

The Bullock Texas State History Museum includes three floors of exhibitions, an IMAX® theater, a 4D special-effects theater, café, and museum store. 512-936-8746 1800 N. Congress Ave. thestoryoftexas.com

Fredericksburg Conference and Visitors Bureau Visit Fredericksburg, a small gem nestled in the Texas Hill Country. Enjoy eclectic shops, diverse lodging, amazing restaurants and Texas wines. 866-997-3600 visitfredericksburgtx.com

Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm Los Poblanos is set amongst 25 acres of lavender fields, an organic farm, and lush gardens, with 20 guest rooms and award winning field-to-fork dining. 505-344-9297 4803 Rio Grande Blvd. NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM lospoblanos.com

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Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm Cooking classes, beautiful dining room venue for private events, hill country cabin rental. 830-833-0910 5818 RR 165, Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com

Blue Corn Harvest Bar & Grill

Hut’s Hamburgers

Snack Bar

Blue Corn Harvest Bar & Grill is a farm-to-table restaurant located in Cedar Park. Locally owned and operated, we keep Cedar Park fresh! 512-528-0889 700 E. Whitestone Blvd., Ste 204, Cedar Park bluecornharvest.com

An Austin tradition since 1939 featuring grassfed Longhorn beef and bison burgers. 512-472-0693 807 W. 6th St. hutsfrankandangies.com

A nostalgic Austin café and lounge, cultivating community and camaraderie by providing a truly hospitable environment and serving accessible, ethical foods. 512-445-2626 1224 S. Congress Ave. snackbaraustin.com

Cafe Josie

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES Austin Foodshed Investors AFI connects investors with Central Texas local sustainable food entrepreneurs to create quality investment opportunities with personal engagement. 512-571-0100 4101 Medical Parkway St., Ste. 107 austinfoodshedinvestors.com

Austin Label Company Custom labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings. Proud members of Go Texan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204 1610 Dungan Ln. austinlabel.com

REAL ESTATE Headwaters Headwaters is a new community located in Dripping Springs celebrating natural beauty, stewardship and outdoor living. It’s ranch life, re-imagined. 2401 E. US Hwy. 290, Dripping Springs liveheadwaters.com

Established in 1997, Cafe Josie strives to provide our guests with a memorable dining experience focusing on using locally sourced ingredients. 512-322-9226 1200 B W. 6th St. cafejosie.com

Chez Nous A casual French bistro, serving Austin since 1982, Chez Nous offers a delectable selection of regional French cuisine and wines in a relaxed, convivial and intimate atmosphere. 512-473-2413 510 Neches St. cheznousaustin.com

Chez Zee American Bistro An Austin original for 25 years! Chez Zee serves lunch, dinner and award winning weekend brunches. Space available for private parties, large or small. 512-454-2666 5406 Balcones Dr. chezzee.com

RESTAURANTS 416 Bar & Grille

East Side Pies

Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co. Locally-sourced lunch and dinner. Craft brewery, live music, good people, dog friendly, creative community. #beermakesitbetter #ouratx 512-298-2242 1305 W. Oltorf St. theabgb.com

Barlata Tapas Bar Located in the heart of South Lamar. Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas. Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us. 512-473-2211 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150 barlataaustin.com

Texan in spirit and local in source, Jack Allen’s Kitchen serves up Texas-inspired cuisine, fresh cocktails, cold beers and good times daily. 512-852-8558 7720 Hwy. 71 W. 512-215-0372 2500 Hoppe Tr., Round Rock 512-351-9399 3600 N. Capital of TX Hwy jackallenskitchen.com

512-524-0933 1401B Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437 5312 G Airport Blvd. 512-467-8900 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. eastsidepies.com

Flyrite Chicken

We offer a carefully selected and prepared take on French bistro fare with wonderful wines all served amidst the intimacy and charm of Texas Hill Country. 512-847-5700 16920 RR 12, Wimberley jobellcafe.com

Kerbey Lane Cafe Kerbey Lane Cafe is a local Austin haunt serving up tasty, healthy food (mostly) 24/7. Stop by any of our 6 locations for a delicious stack of pancakes! 512-451-1436 kerbeylanecafe.com

The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients. 512-847-7327 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com

Lenoir Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service. 512-215-9778 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com

Otto’s German Bistro

At Flyrite, we believe fast food should be real food. Our delicious sandwiches, wraps and shakes are fresh and made to order. Drive Thru. Eat Well! 512-284-8014 2129 E. 7th St. flyritechicken.com

Otto’s offers German-inspired fare in Fredericksburg, Texas. Featuring locally sourced produce and meats, local beers and wines on tap, and handcrafted cocktails. 830-307-3336 316 E. Austin St., Fredericksburg ottosfbg.com

Hoover’s Cooking

Salt & Time Butcher Shop and Salumeria

From scratch Texas home cooking. Serving comfort food favorites like chicken fried steak, meatloaf and southern-style veggies; vegetarian options. BBQ, Sat. and Sun. breakfast. 512-479-5006 2002 Manor Rd. hooverscooking.com

Thai Fresh Thai Fresh offers authentic Thai food, cooking classes, coffee bar, gluten free bakery. We source locally grown and raised ingredients. 512-494-6436 909 W. Mary St. thaifreshaustin.com

ThunderCloud Subs

Jobell Cafe & Bistro

The County Line BBQ For over 40 years the County Line has been The place in Austin for legendary slow-smoked barbeque served up in a scenic Texas Hill Country view! 512-346-3664: 5204 FM 2222 512-327-1742: 6500 Bee Cave Rd. countyline.com

Americana cuisine, full service restaurant serving dinner until midnight seven days a week. Saturday and Sunday brunch starting at 10 a.m. 416 craft cocktails. 512-206-0540 5011 Burnet Rd. #150 416barandgrille.com

Jack Allen’s Kitchen

A full service Butcher Shop and restaurant. 100% locally sourced meat and oroduce, house made deli meats, charcuterie, and salumi. 512-524-1383 1912 E. 7th St. saltandtime.com

For fresh, fast and healthy, head on over to your neighborhood ThunderCloud Subs, Austin’s original sub shop. Now with 30 locations in Central Texas. Corp. Offce: 512-479-8805 thundercloud.com

The Turtle Restaurant Your destination for food prepared from locally available, seasonal ingredients. 325-646-8200 514 Center Ave., Brownwood theturtlerestaurant.com

Vinaigrette A farm-to-table restaurant serving entrée salads and botany-inspired drinks/ cocktails. Patio dining and parking available. Open daily for lunch and dinner. 512-852-8791 2201 College Ave. 505-820-9205 709 Don Cubero Alley, Santa Fe, NM 505-842-5507 1828 Central Ave. SW, Albuquerque, NM vinaigretteonline.com

Wink Restaurant & Wine Bar The daily menu is based on local artisans. Wink happily embraces omnivores, vegetarians, vegans, pescetarians and special dietary issues. 512-482-8868 1014 N. Lamar Blvd. winkrestaurant.com

SPECIALTY MARKETS Make It Sweet At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered. 512-371-3401 9070 Research Blvd. makeitsweet.com

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edible SCHOOLYARD

THE WEE MARKETEERS

ext time you’re

garden is to grow produce

visiting the down-

to cook in class. Current-

town SFC Farmers’

ly, most of the vegetables

Market, cast your gaze just

grown during a season go

a tad lower than expected to

to the school’s cafeteria, but

that booth just over there—

because the herbs are peren-

the one manned and led by

nials, they can also be sold

the wee attendees of the

in the market year-round.

University of Texas Elemen-

And this shows students that

tary School.

their fresh produce can be

Sure, the garden herbs

used in other places besides

they’re peddling might not

the cafeteria or their dinner

be in the neatest bunches

table. From her market expe-

(after all, they’re picked from

rience, second-grader Jayda

the school garden, cleaned

Golech says she’s learned

and bundled by the small,

that you can grow different things, and that they’re

excited hands of fourth and fifth graders), and you might spend a few extra seconds waiting for

healthier when you grow them. “And,” she adds, “you can put them

the first graders to subtract in their heads in order to give you ex-

on things…like, we put our lettuce on pizza.”

act change. But rest assured, you’re making these kids’ day—boosting

The program also helps students understand, at a very basic lev-

their confidence and supporting the school’s gardening program all

el, how to run a business. Zuzu says she wanted to go to the market

at once.

because she’d grown the herbs and she wanted to sell them, too.

The booth is organized by Rebecca Vore, the school’s wellness

And although Camp has the rather sophisticated and specific hope

teacher, who’s been teaching gardening, nutrition, cooking and

of being a thoracic surgeon someday, he says, “It’s really neat just

ecology in Austin for 15 years. She’s always wanted the kids to have

to run something that can inspire other people to have their own

a farmers market booth, and in late 2014, she got her wish—thanks

unique business and unique trade.”

to the support of the school’s administration, a thriving garden and

Both Zuzu and Jayda say they like helping with the money the

the school’s proximity to the market. Vore believes the experience

most. Vore notes that mental math—done without a computer or a

the students gain at the market increases the chances that they’ll

calculator—is a real-world skill that students don’t often get to prac-

continue to explore entrepreneurship as adults. “They start to un-

tice. As a result, “they walk away from the entire experience with

derstand the exchange of goods and services and that is a big part

more self-confidence and knowing how to engage in the communi-

of the discovery for them,” she says.

ty,” she says. And although few of the students say they’re inspired

The students are also adorably mesmerized by the concept of

to become farmers in the future, they have gained an appreciation

trading and bartering. They’re allowed to trade their herbs with

for gardening and growing their own food. Camp says he might grow

other vendors for breakfast goods, for example, and sometimes

herbs one day because “they cost a lot at the store and you can save

they trade with other farmers to take produce home to their fam-

quite a bundle by planting them and growing them yourself!”

ilies. Recently, fifth-grader Camp Oden scored a scone and a ba-

Keep an (lowered) eye out at the market for students from the

guette, while Zuzu Danielson, a first grader, rattled off a list of

UT Elementary School. And if you have a dog, bring it. Camp says

things she garnered in a swap: “kale and juice and a muffin.”

one of his goals is to pet every dog at the market, and that “some of

The school’s gardening program, also run by Vore, supports the cooking component of her wellness program, and the goal for the 66

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them are really very cute!” For more information, visit utschoolgrown.blogspot.com

Photography of UT Elementary School booth attendants (left to right) Jayda Golech, Thalia Hernandez, Zuzu Danielson-LaGrone

BY C L A I R E C E L L A • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JO ANN SANTANGELO

f k r o o m o c the

heart Look for Responsibly Grown veggies when you shop our produce department.

DOMAIN: Just off Mopac, North of Braker | NORTH: Highway 183 & 360 | DOWNTOWN: 6th & Lamar SOUTH: William Cannon & Mopac | WEST: Hill Country Galleria @wholefoodsATX