Edible Austin July/Aug 2019 by Edible Austin

Bouquet of Viogner / Catalan Food / Reduce Your Rubbish No. 65 July/August 2019

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CONTENTS R EGUL A R S 07 Eat Drink Local

08 What’s on Our Counter

CATALAN FOOD

REDUCE YOUR RUBBISH

The taste of Catalonia mixes with the ingredients of Central Texas.

Simple ways to cut down on waste.

10 N otable Edibles

Austin Restaurant Weeks. City of Austin's Net-Zero Plan.

14 W hat’s in Season 17 E dible Endeavor

Q&A with Daniel Olivella.

28 E dible Explores Vegan Paradise.

34 S potlight on Local Finding My Path.

42 E dible Ink The Official Fruit of Summer.

On the Cover

Bouquet of Viogner / Catalan Food / Reduce Your Rubbish No. 65 July/August 2019

Celebrating Central Texas food culture, season by season

Watermelon patch. Photography by Jenna Northcutt.

COOL OFF WITH WATERMELON

BOUQUET OF VIOGNIER

Enjoy this savory recipe with your summer melon.

Discover a locally made wine that's easy to love.

EdibleAustin.com / 5

PUBLISHER’S note

Remembering Your Roots

PUBLISHER Jenna Northcutt

eflecting on your heritage can make a world of difference when it comes to cooking, as a wealth of recipes and food knowledge

lie in the past. Chef Daniel Olivella, owner of

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Dawn Weston

local restaurant Barlata Tapas Bar, puts this idea into practice in his kitchen daily. For this issue, we spoke with Daniel about his childhood in Catalonia and how growing up there influenced his cooking

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Darby Kendall

today. In his new cookbook, "Catalan Food," he takes what he learned about food in his youth and adapts that knowledge to make the European dishes approachable to even the most

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Welch

homegrown Austinite. The cookbook immediately interested me, as I love the idea of taking traditions from where you grew up and melding them with where you now live — and there are so many crossovers to be found in every culture.

ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Mika Locklear

I myself am from Southern Louisiana. After spending time in Gulf Coast kitchens as a child, I wholeheartedly believe there is no substitution for painstakingly stirring a dark roux for at least 45 minutes. The depth of flavor you get from slowly keeping the roux moving to avoid burning can’t be achieved any other way. In his book, Daniel

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Claire Cella

talks about sofregir, meaning “to cook slowly,” when describing how to make the

Dena Garcia

Sofrito for his Paella de la Casa (page 24). Across every culture, achieving depth of

Stacey Ingram Kaleh

flavor can only be reached with patience and time. It's a culinary universal truth, if you will. If you want to experience the delicious cross-cultural foods Austin has to offer, we

DISTRIBUTION Craig Fisher, Flying Fish

have the perfect excuse for you to eat out this summer. Head to participating restaurants from August 15 through September 2, and give back to Central Texas Food Bank for their second annual Austin Restaurant Weeks. Over 50 local restaurants are participating, so you can truly try a wide variety of cuisines. Read more about this great fundraiser on page 10. Cheers to getting out this summer!

Edible Austin Mission To transform the way Central Texans eat by connecting them to the local food growers, producers and makers, thereby strengthening the local food economy and creating a sustainable local food system. Edible Austin is a locally owned media company and the authority on the local food scene as captured in print and digital and through our community events.

6 / EdibleAustin.com

CONTACT US 1101 Navasota St., Ste. 1, Austin, TX 78702 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2019. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Edible Austin is a member of Edible Communities.

eat drink LOCAL

What's for Dinner? We've got the perfect seasonal dishes for you to make tonight. Visit edibleaustin.com and take a look at our carefully selected seasonal picks for you and your family.

Where to Eat Out Explore our list of locally sourcing restaurants making an effort to support our local farmers and ranchers. edibleaustin.com/restaurants

Want to expand your culinary skills and learn from the best local artisans? Join us for our upcoming Eat Drink Local classes. We'll learn how to make chocolate from bean to bar with SRSLY Choclate on September 12 and take a look into the process of making cider with Texas Keeper Cider on November 10. Get your tickets now edibleaustin.com/edl

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Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re revealing the chefs very soon!

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ON OUR

COUNTER by DARBY KENDALL photography by JENNA NORTHCUTT

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Take a look at what our staff is enjoying this month.

AUSTIN HONEY COMPANY From tea to toast, we love using local honey, and Austin Honey Company is a fantastic producer. The family-owned business keeps their apiaries on organic farms in and around Austin, including Eden East Farm and Bernhardt’s Farm. They offer a wide variety of pollinator products: the classic honey bear bottle full of raw, unfiltered honey; blocks of honeycomb; beeswax candles and a creamed honey that’s specially whipped and chilled to optimize spreadability. You can order their products online or find them at Texas Farmers Markets at Lakeline and Mueller and at SFC Farmers’ Market Downtown. 512-784-3279 austinhoneyco.com

PURE LUCK FARM AND DAIRY We Austinites are lucky to have access to the best chèvre in North America. Trust us, we’re not exaggerating. The local farmers at Pure Luck won the award from the American Cheese Society last year. Amelia Sweethardt, who owns the farm with her family, has been making goat cheese since she was a little girl, when she worked alongside her mother on the same Central Texas acres the farm occupies today. One of our favorite takes on their first-rate cheese is June’s Joy, a chèvre mixed with Texas honey, smoked black pepper and organic thyme. Find their cheeses at Austin-area Central Markets, Whole Foods Market at Lamar and Gateway, Texas Farmers Market at Mueller, Wheatsville Food Co-op and Antonelli’s Cheese Shop. purelucktexas.com

FITJOY Having a quick snack ready to go when hunger strikes is essential in our office, as it’s our job to look at and think about food all day. FitJoy bars fill that role perfectly — they taste great, are locally made and use only natural flavors and sweeteners. They offer both full- and fun-size bars, which we pick depending on how powerful a particular craving is. The bars currently come in flavors Chocolate Peanut Butter, Cookies and Cream, Grandma’s Lemon Square and Cookie Dough Brownie. Find them online and at Central Market. 833-434-8569 fitjoynutrition.com

TITO'S HANDMADE VODKA It’s no secret that we’re fans of Tito’s here at Edible Austin. Our admiration stems mostly from two points: They make a great local vodka, and they support many nonprofits within our community. Tito’s Handmade Vodka is not only a good base for cocktails — it’s also the perfect blank slate to infuse with seasonal produce, like peaches and blackberries. Plus their founder, Tito Beveridge, was the first to bring distilling back to Texas after prohibition, and for that we’re forever grateful. Tito’s Handmade Vodka is a Texas-made drink you can get in all 50 states, but we’re partial to enjoying it right here in Austin. titosvodka.com

EdibleAustin.com / 9

notable EDIBLES

A Square Meal by DARBY KENDALL / photography by ERIN HOLSONBACK AND HIDEAWAY KITCHEN & BAR

PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS: INTERO RESTAURANT AND HIDEAWAY KITCHEN & BAR

iving back to our community is deliciously simple this

the fundraiser. Because Austin Restaurant Weeks occurs during

summer, thanks to the folks at Central Texas Food Bank.

what is normally a slow period for restaurants, he says eateries

The second annual Austin Restaurant Weeks, a city-wide

actually benefit by participating. “It's a win-win for everyone,”

fundraiser for the food bank, returns August 15 through September

Gilmore says. “We're donating to the food bank, and the

2 this year. Many top restaurants and bars in Austin will offer

restaurant makes money … It's pretty neat to be able to help

special prix fixe lunches, dinners and drinks, with a portion of the

your business and then also help feed people.”

cost from each dish and drink going directly to the food bank to help fight hunger.

Austin residents can make the most of the fundraiser by using it as a reason to get out and try new restaurants. The prix fixe

Last year’s inaugural event was a huge success for the food bank,

menu offerings make it more approachable for many, with lunches

as they raised funds that provided over 550,000 meals for their

priced at $20 and dinners priced at either $35 or $50. “We had a

clients. Every dollar donated to Central Texas Food Bank turns

lot of first-time customers over those two weeks,” Gilmore says.

into four meals for someone in need, so the purchase of a sin-

“When you see the positive effects that the food bank has, provid-

gle dinner during Austin Restaurant Weeks can support up to 32

ing as many meals as they can to people who need them, it's just

meals.

a no-brainer to support that.”

“It definitely exceeded our wildest expectations for our first year,”

Looking forward to this year’s event, Jackson says he’s excited to

says Mark Jackson, chief development officer for Central Texas

see how participation from both chefs and attendees will amplify

Food Bank. “I personally ate at eleven or twelve of the restaurants

the fundraiser. “It was a huge learning curve to build it from the

over the course of two weeks. It was really cool to see how the

ground up in the first year, but we think we've got a really good

restaurants got creative with the stuff that they already had on the

format that can grow.”

menu or added new items specifically for the event.”

To find out where to dine during Austin Restaurant Weeks, visit

Local chef Bryce Gilmore, who’s participating this year with his

austinrestaurantweeks.org for a list of participating bars and

restaurants Barley Swine, Odd Duck and Sour Duck Market, champions

restaurants.

10 / EdibleAustin.com

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notable EDIBLES

Zeroing in on Sustainability by DARBY KENDALL

ating locally produced food does more than satisfy your taste buds — it’s good for the environment, too. Supporting Central Texas farmers and makers is just one of the many

ways you can help the City of Austin reach its goal of making our community carbon neutral by 2050.

The next big step is meeting the same goal in 2050 for community -wide carbon emissions. “All of the emissions in our boundary of

As the climate changes, our local government is working to lessen

Travis County total about thirteen million metric tons of CO2 per

the impacts for Austin residents by cutting down on greenhouse

year,” says Baumer. “That challenge is really different from trying

gas emissions. Some of its initiatives include the aforementioned

to get city operations to zero.”

2050 goal, as well as a resolution for net-zero carbon emissions from all city municipal operations by 2020.

Electricity is currently the highest producer of greenhouse gases in the community, but thanks to Austin Energy’s efforts to use 90

“A really important distinction between the municipal goal and the

percent carbon-free energy by 2027, this can be easily remedied.

community-wide goal is that when we say ‘municipal operations,’

Transportation is the next biggest contributor.

we mean the 5,050 vehicles and the 200 buildings the city owns, like City Hall,” says Zach Baumer, climate program manager for the city’s Office of Sustainability. “But when you compare that to the community-wide target, we mean my emissions, your emissions, your car, my house, every restaurant — all of the emissions.” When the resolution to lower municipal greenhouse gases was originally passed by the Austin City Council in 2007, city operations produced nearly 250,000 metric tons of carbon dioxide each

“Right now, over seventy-five percent of people get in gasoline-powered cars every single day and drive around, most of the time by themselves,” Baumer says. “Transportation is just a much more dispersed and challenging problem to solve.” Though it may seem like a tall order to decrease carbon emissions from transportation, one simple step Austinites can take to reduce their fuel-based footprint is to buy locally produced foods.

year. They now produce less than a fifth of that amount, and Baumer

“The more local food that we produce, the less food has to be

says they’re on track to meet the goal of zero emissions by the

shipped from far away,” Baumer says. “Most of the local food is

end of this year.

produced in a non-industrial-intensive way, which creates less

This success is made possible by an increase in energy-efficient buildings, city cars that use biodiesel and electricity, Austin Energy’s GreenChoice program and the purchase of carbon offsets for the remaining emissions. 12 / EdibleAustin.com

emissions, too … The push for better, healthier, more local food will help local farmers and can help [us reach] our emission targets.” For more information on the resolution, visit austintexas.gov/climate

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edible ENDEAVOR

Q&A with Daniel Olivella by ADAM BOLES photography by MELANIE GRIZZEL

hen Daniel Olivella came to the United States in 1979 at the age of 18, he had stars in his eyes — though not the kind you might expect. He was going to be

a famous jazz saxophonist, and his uncle Paco was going to help by giving him a job at his Continental restaurant in Chicago while Daniel pursued his dream. “My career as a musician was spent in kitchens and bartending,” the now-seasoned chef and recent cookbook author tells me on a sunny afternoon at Barlata, his South Lamar tapas restaurant and bar. “I knew from the beginning I liked cooking. I had a feeling in my hands and in my palate for food. I was lucky — in my mid-20s, I found out that I was a better cook than a musician.” Back in those days, aside from Julia Child on PBS and a few others, the idea of a “celebrity chef ” was unthinkable. Chefs stayed in the kitchen, sweating it out on the line night after night while their guests were safely ensconced in the dining room. “When I was a kid, we went out once a year, on my mother’s birthday or something,” Olivella says. “And when we went out, we didn’t meet the chef. We met the maître d’, the guy with the bow tie.

EdibleAustin.com / 17

edible ENDEAVOR

I remember there was one good restaurant in my hometown, in the

When you see geographically where we’re located, people some-

ramblas, in the main street, and next to it there was a little alley they

times ask me, “How come there is pasta in your food?” Because

called ‘The Alley of the Flies.’ And I would go through this alley, and

the Romans founded us. “Why is there béchamel?” Because the

I remember seeing the chef in the back, outside the kitchen, smoking

French are next to us. In our culture, in our food, there are a few

these unfiltered cigarettes with a big bottle of beer.”

staples of the Mediterranean diet. Nuts. We use a lot of nuts. We

Even now, as a successful restaurateur, lecturer and author of "Catalan Food," his stunning first cookbook, Olivella still runs service at Barlata with a solid understanding that cheffing is not glamorous and it certainly isn’t a job for someone with stars in their eyes. “We’re servants, basically. I always remember that in the Medieval times, cooks were not inside the castle, but they were living right next to the door of the castle, because the king wanted to be fed by a good chef. So we feed the royalty, but we’re still working class. That’s what I think people have forgotten.” Such are the insights from a man who’s been in the business for 40 years, who still regularly cooks on his own line at Barlata and has no illusions about exactly what it takes to bring the traditional cuisine of his home to eager diners and, now, curious home cooks. The following interview contains some of the best pearls of wisdom I could gather from this veteran chef, entrepreneur, father and proud Austinite.

use walnuts, hazelnuts, almonds and pine nuts. We pound them to make sauces. Not many other cuisines do that. Extra virgin olive oil — everywhere; small fish — everywhere; sardines. Almost every single day of my life I’ve had sardines. A lot of vegetables, a lot of fruit, a lot of beans, especially garbanzos. What don’t we eat in Catalonia? A lot of beef. We don’t eat beef because we don’t have beef, because it is super expensive. What do we eat? A lot of rabbit, little game, little birds, snails. Some people tell me that my book is an ode to the onion. I worship onions. I sweat my onions two hours every single day. I tell everybody the acoustic base of my food is my sweated onions. I think there are three things in food for me — acidity, fat and seasoning. These three things are what dictate your palate. How you put fat in food. My fat, it’s done by a scoop of onions that have been sweated with extra virgin olive oil. There’s integration there. Sweat your onions first. With that you’re gonna do wonders. Is there a dish you make, or that you feature in your book, that best illustrates your philosophy of food and service?

Your cookbook has, at its core, the recipes and techniques

There’s a dish we make that’s fried potatoes — patatas bravas.

of Catalonia, but dishes like your smoked paella and your

That’s the most traditional tapa in Spain. That potato needs to be

chorizo burger hint at a distinctly Austin influence. How has

boiled to the point that it almost disintegrates, then cooled off.

Austin informed the food you cook?

We deep fry it once, cool it off, then we deep fry it again in order

I wanted to make a cookbook about my food and my culture. When you come to Barlata, it’s a tapas bar. But if you start scratching at the layers of my food, at the end, you can close your eyes and you can taste Catalonia — more than Sevilla, Madrid or San Sebastian. You can taste sofrito from Catalonia, you can taste my picadas. The way that I sweat my onions, the way that I braise my vegetables, it’s Catalan. I haven’t invented anything. I’m just trying to recreate the flavors of my mouth onto the plates. Then, at the end, I might make a smoked paella because we’re in Austin, and if I don’t have fun creating food, then I will be bored. My cookbook is authentic because it contains stories from a Catalan

to create that crunchiness and tenderness inside. I fight for this potato. I’ve done this potato for years and years and years every day, and every day I’m still excited to make sure the potato comes out good. And every day I eat at least one with aioli to make sure it’s crunchy. That’s what a restaurant needs to drive it: that passion for perfection for that silly potato, the humble potato. Being in restaurants is a hard line of work, yet there are so many restaurants opening in Austin right now. What advice would you give a young restaurateur about the business that you’ve learned along the way?

guy who has somehow never left Catalonia but has somehow

It’s a hard business. If you’re lucky and you’re good at it, you make

understood American palates, too.

a 5 percent profit, and that 5 percent is eaten up right away by the things that start breaking once you’re over four or five years

Catalan food is a distinct cuisine from Spanish food, and yet

in. You gotta love it, and you gotta understand that the business

it shares so much in common with it and other European

doesn’t start in the food or the wine or in the kitchen — it starts

traditions. What makes Catalan food so special?

up here at the front door. The floor has to be shiny every day.

18 / EdibleAustin.com

edible ENDEAVOR

What do you look for in a restaurant when you go out to eat? When I go out to a place, I always check for chewing gum under the table. If there’s no chewing gum, that’s a good sign. If the place is clean, that’s a super positive second sign. And then I just look to have a good time. And honestly, I’ve been to elBulli, I’ve been to all the best restaurants and I could be happy eating at a taco truck if the food is good. As long as it’s solid and clean and people are smiling and happy to have me there, that’s all I want. Beyond Catalonian cuisine, what other culinary traditions get you really excited? The only food that really, really excites me, the only food that gets me out of my chair to go eat, is Japanese food. I like the way the Japanese marinate things, so I do some of the marinades of my meats with the Japanese influence. I always put the Catalan touch on it. I’ve done all of that to grow as a cook, to grow as a professional. I always think of the Japanese way of serving people and respecting the food as a platform for how I envision my business. When you go to a Japanese restaurant, you can’t hear a sound, because everybody is focused. It’s how I perceive my kitchen, you know — a place of concentration. You’ve already accomplished so much in your career. What’s next for you? What keeps you going? I’m baking now and I’m so excited. I could not find a pastry chef, so now I’m teaching myself. I’m proud because I’m making all the desserts for my restaurant. You always have to find that edge of excitement. You spend a good deal of time on the road doing talks and lectures. What are some of the things a crowd can expect to hear from you? The first thing I tell the people is that if you want to do a Mediterranean diet, the most important thing is to go shopping. A cook at home has to understand the basics, but shopping is the most important thing. Then you have to understand that food should be eaten in peace, with family, and you should be taking your time to cook. Listening to the seasons, listening to what’s closer to where you live, it’s important. The life in this part of the world centers around food because it’s a family oriented lifestyle. The table is where you gather with everybody every single day. This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

EdibleAustin.com / 19

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edible EXCERPT

CATALAN

FOOD

Reprinted from "Catalan Food: Culture & Flavors from the Mediterranean." Copyright ©2018 by Daniel Olivella and Caroline Wright. Photographs copyright ©2018 by Johnny Autry. Published by Clarkson Potter, an imprint of Penguin Random House, LLC.

n Catalonia, the experience of tapas is a festivity. You go to a

A meal of tapas is like having a tasting menu of your own creation

bar or restaurant, sit at a table with friends, and order a vari-

without any pretense: It’s greasy fingers holding onto a cold beer;

ety of small plates to be passed around. As the night goes on,

piles of mussel shells and crumpled napkins; and pimentón oil

everyone shares their favorite foods, orders a few more plates,

sopped up from a plate of seared octopus with crisp bread smeared

and excitement builds at the table. It’s no secret that Catalans like

with tomato and garlic. It’s a hunger and mess best understood in

to drink. For us, leisure time and work time are equally important.

the aftermath: a jumbled table strewn with empty wineglasses and

We spend many hours socializing in bars, and tapas are a nat-

small plates licked clean.

ural extension of our proclivity for drink. Tapa actually means “lid” and refers to the way Catalans perch small plates of food on

Outside of Catalonia, you can reproduce the food reasonably well.

top of their drinks. We love small bites of food with our drinks

But the hard part is re-creating the experience. The attitude toward

so much that we have several words describing different types

eating is different in other countries and, as a result, less fluid and

of tapas. Pica-pica means “pinch pinch.” These are even smaller

less exploratory. In Catalonia, a meal of tapas turns dining into a spe-

snacks usually served as single bites. Pinxos are skewered foods,

cial event to be entered into with abandon and shared with everyone

and they are typically on full display on the countertop of the bar

at the table. Nowhere else could be better or more important than

like a buffet from which guests can pick and choose.

where you are—except maybe the next tapas bar down the street! EdibleAustin.com / 21

edible EXCERPT

Gambes Al’ Ajillo SHRIMP IN GARLIC OIL SERVES 3–4

My deepest memories come from playing around in the kitchen

In a cold 6-inch cast-iron skillet, stir together the oils and garlic.

as a boy while my mother cooked. The savory aroma of sofregit

Tuck the shrimp together in a single layer on top. Place the skil-

and the smell of frying garlic always remind me of her, as do the

let over medium-high heat and sprinkle a generous pinch (about

smells in this dish. I like to serve it to guests in small cast-iron

¼ teaspoon) of adobo seasoning over the shrimp as they begin

skillets with the shrimp and garlic still sizzling. The aromas of

to sizzle. Sear the shrimp until they are pink on one side, about

garlic and oil waft up from the pan, engulfing your senses.

2 minutes, shaking the pan once or twice to keep the garlic from

4 t. vegetable oil 2 t.

extra-virgin olive oil

medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced

8 medium tail-on shrimp (21/25 count), peeled and deveined ½ t. adobo seasoning, plus a generous pinch of pimentón (smoked paprika) 1 T.

finely chopped fresh curly parsley, for serving

22 / EdibleAustin.com

burning. Use tongs to turn the shrimp and cook until they are bright pink, about 1 minute more. Sprinkle with the remaining adobo seasoning and remove the skillet from the heat. Let stand for about 30 seconds, garnish with parsley, and serve the shrimp sizzling in the skillet.

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Texas Peach and Tomato Salad with Goat Cheese SERVES 4–6 AS A FIRST COURSE OR TAPA

3 T. extra-virgin olive oil 1 T.

PX vinegar or balsamic vinegar

1 T.

pitted and very finely chopped oil-cured black olives

2 lbs. heirloom tomatoes, cut into bite-sized pieces 1 lb. peaches (about 3), cut into bite-sized pieces

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 T.

thinly sliced fresh basil leaves

3 oz. cold soft goat cheese In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, and olives. Add the tomatoes and peaches, season with salt and pepper, and toss gently to coat.

GROCERY • ESPRESSO • DELI • WINE & BEER TO STAY OR GO • LUNCH SPECIALS • GRAB & GO

Divide the mixture among plates. Scatter over the basil and finely crumble the goat cheese on top. Spoon over any remaining vinaigrette from the bowl and serve.

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EdibleAustin.com / 23

edible EXCERPT

Paella de la Casa H O U S E PA E L L A SERVES 2 AS A MAIN DISH OR 4 TO SHARE

In Spain, rice dishes are more about the rice than the add-ins. But in America, more is more, so this paella is filled to the brim with chicken, shrimp, clams, mussels, squid, and chorizo. The idea here is to add whatever you want. I am a firm believer that the beauty of paella is that it can be changed to suit your preferences, depending on the season, where you are, and who is eating it. This version is for my American friends. 5 c. store-bought or homemade chicken stock

of hot stock to the pan, shaking it to settle and loosen any rice

small garlic cloves, peeled

clusters as the stock begins to boil. Only shake the rice at this

pinches of pure saffron (about ¼ teaspoon)

point; if stirred, it will become sticky.

⁄ t. kosher salt, divided

6 T.

fresh curly parsley leaves

Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer the paella until

2½ T. extra-virgin olive oil

about 80 percent of the liquid is absorbed, about 10 minutes.

1 small (3-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken thigh, chopped

When most of the liquid is absorbed, the rice will start to

¼ c. squid bodies, sliced into rings and tentacles

sizzle a bit, almost as if it is asking you for another drink. At

2 T.

finely chopped smoked, cured chorizo sausage

1 c.

Spanish rice, such as bomba

that point, add about 1 cup more stock by drizzling it around

¼ c. Sofregit (recipe follows) or store-bought sofrito ½ t. pimentón (smoked paprika)

the edge of the pan so the stock seeps from the pan edge to the center.

¼ t. freshly ground black pepper

Arrange the clams and mussels around the outer edge of the pan,

littleneck or Manila clams, scrubbed

mussels, scrubbed and debearded

and bury the shrimp throughout the rice. Simmer until about 80

4 medium tail-on shrimp (21/25 count), peeled and deveined 2 T.

frozen peas, thawed

2 T. fresh thin green beans or haricots verts, cut into ½-inch 4

percent of the liquid is absorbed and the rice starts to sizzle again, 5 to 6 minutes more. Drizzle about 1 cup more stock around the pan edge, and scatter the peas and green beans over the rice. Continue to simmer the rice until it is just beginning to become

pieces

tender, 5 to 6 minutes more. At this point, the shrimp should be

small lemon wedges, for serving

pink, the vegetables cooked through, and the clams and mussels should be open. Test the rice by taking a bite. The paella is done

In a medium saucepan, bring the stock to a gentle simmer over

when the rice is plump, glossy, and tender on the surface with a

medium heat.

firm white center when bitten into.

Make a picada by mashing the garlic, saffron, and ¹/8 teaspoon of

The edge of the paella pan should also have a dark rim of oily

the salt to a fine paste in a mortar with a pestle. Gradually add

starch, which is a good sign of the crispy socarrat below. To

the parsley leaves, mashing each addition completely before

test the socarrat, use a spoon to scrape the bottom of the paella

adding more, until you have a green paste. Stir in ½ tablespoon

pan. If the spoon doesn’t move through the rice but instead the

of the olive oil and a few spoonfuls of warm stock to loosen

rice is firm and the pan moves, then the socarrat has begun to

the mixture so it is just runny enough to slowly drip from the

form. When the socarrat has begun, rotate the pan for even

spoon.

browning. The rice will talk to you as it cooks; the crackle will

In a 12-inch paella pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the chicken, squid, and chorizo. Cook, tossing, until the chicken and squid begin to shrink and turn opaque, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the rice

get faster as the rice dries out, then it will go silent when the socarrat is finished forming. Your nose will tell you if it’s beginning to burn; just add a spoonful of stock to the scorching spot if so.

until it is shiny with oil, then add the picada, sofregit, pimentón,

Serve the paella at the center of the table with spoons for

black pepper, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Add about 3 cups

guests to serve themselves and lemon wedges for squeezing.

24 / EdibleAustin.com

edible EXCERPT

EdibleAustin.com / 25

edible EXCERPT

Sofregit SOFRITO MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS

¹⁄³ c. extra-virgin olive oil

there as the sauce cooks. The sofregit is finished when it concentrates

medium yellow onion, finely chopped

A few generous pinches of kosher salt

to a thick, chunky texture and falls from a spoon in one dollop.

small green bell pepper, finely chopped

To store, spoon the sofregit into ice cube trays in 2-tablespoon

can (15 ounces) tomato sauce

portions. Freeze until solid, then transfer to freezer bags, squeeze out all the air, and seal. Store for up to 3 months. Thaw before

In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the onion and salt, and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook until the onion is translucent, about 15 minutes, stirring often to prevent burning. Stir in the bell pepper and cook until the onion is pale golden and very soft and the pepper is tender, about 15 minutes more. When it is ready, the onion will fall apart in your fingers. Give it time.

using or add directly to the pan for dishes that will be simmering. EL CONSELL: In Spanish, sofreír (sofregir in Catalan) means to cook slowly, and slowly cooking onions is the most important step to a deeply flavored sofregit. Take your time. You could use fresh tomatoes here, but the truth is I’ve had the best results with a can of smooth tomato sauce (not Italian pasta sauce). Look for tomato sauce (or pureed and strained tomatoes) near the other

Add the tomato sauce, increase the heat to medium-high, and bring

canned tomato products in your market. In a pinch, you could

to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer gently for 1½ hours,

substitute good-quality store-bought Spanish sofrito from a market

stirring occasionally. You should see only a few bubbles here and

such as La Tienda.

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EdibleAustin.com / 27

edible EXPLORES

Vegan Paradise by KM THORNBERRY / photography by NATHAN BEELS

LEFT TO RIGHT: BISTRO VONISH, ZUCCHINI KILL BAKERY AND WASOTA VEGAN PARADISE

ossum Park is a vegan enclave that has coalesced around a

of their products, the ladies running this business are in it to blow

shared courtyard of picnic tables and canopied patio dining

the competition away. All of Zucchini Kill’s baked goods, which

sets. Made up of four food trucks, a camper trailer and one

include cupcakes, “cream coffins,” cookies, brownies, donuts and

brick-and-mortar bakery, the density of vegan food options at Possum

Swiss cake rolls, are free of gluten, soy and animal products. In

Park is making this offbeat community an Austin destination.

addition, the ingredients they use are top-of-the-line, from Earth

Bistro Vonish

Balance shortening to fair trade chocolate and organic vanilla.

Chef Craig Vanis’ ambition is to elevate vegan cuisine, and he

s’mores are a few that have graced the display case lately. Yet, the

has been extraordinarily successful with his food trailer, Bistro

basics are never neglected; chocolate and vanilla treats are always

Vonish. Vanis, a vegan himself, left a lucrative career as an

available and are, like everything else, delicious.

oilfield engineer to attend culinary school and pursue a career as a chef. His dream: to open a “date-quality” vegan restaurant

Their ever-changing array of cupcake flavors is thrilling: basil blueberry, pistachio velvet, black forest cherry, creamsicle and

zucchinikill.com

in Austin. The result is the Bistro Vonish trailer, with outdoor tables and elegant cuisine. Southern-fried oyster mushrooms on carrot-habanero puree, sweet potato arepas with cream cheese and jalapeño jam, black garlic bruschetta with roasted tomato and sage and pan-seared mac and cheese are a few of the current offerings. The changing menu is always based on local, seasonal ingredients prepared with culinary expertise. Bistro Vonish is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays and also offers brunch on Saturdays and Sundays, and business is so good they have been steadily expanding their hours. bistrovonish.com

Zucchini Kill Bakery There is just so much to love about this bakery. From their ridiculously cool sense of humor and punk rock aesthetic to the professionalism 28 / EdibleAustin.com

Wasota Vegan Paradise Wasota is sufficiently different enough from Bistro Vonish to be a perfect complement. In this trailer, Lawrence Eguakun prepares traditional West African and Nigerian food, selling hearty plates that are nutritious and filling. Staples of this cuisine are blackeyed peas, spinach, plantains, rice, green beans and peppers, and Eguakun is a master at preparing them. The savory and spicy flavors are served up piping hot, and the fried plantains and fritters are crispy and irresistible. Beyond the traditional options, a veggie burger and other sandwiches are available, though it is often the Nigerian dishes — and Eguakun’s homemade pepper sauce — that keep people coming back for more. facebook.com/wasotaveganparadise

edible EXPLORES

LEFT: SUNDAZE AND FRANNY'S SOUTHERN COMFORT FOOD. RIGHT: POSSUM PARK AND HEMLOCK BOUTIQUE

Find Possum Park at 701 E. 53rd St.

Hemlock Boutique

vegan ranch, peach ’n’ sour, spicy lemon pepper, BBQ , habanero

It is astonishing that such a tiny camper trailer can hold so many

any in town. And, for non-vegan customers, Sundaze also offers

desirable items. This little business sells chic ladies clothing, soy

classic, unforgettable fried chicken.

candles, jewelry, beauty products and gifts, all of which are man-

sundazetx.com

and buffalo. Sundaze also makes fresh-cut french fries that rival

ufactured without harm to animals. Their clothes are made from natural and artificial fibers, including rayon and Eucalyptus fiber, dresses. Hemlock’s prices are beyond reasonable; they range from

Franny's Southern Comfort Food

“bargain” to “steal.” Hot products include vegan nail polish, faux

Franny’s offers Creole and Cajun-style vegan comfort food,

leather boots and vests and bamboo “take-out” utensil sets (which

specializing in red beans and rice, gumbo, smoky greens, grits,

include a reusable bamboo straw and straw-cleaning brush).

cornbread, po-boys, potato salad, muffulettas and homemade vegan

and they run the gamut from buttery-soft tees to velvet and lace

hemlockboutique.com

Sundaze A go-to spot for vegans looking for the joy of fried chicken, Sundaze at Possum Park offers deep-fried seitan served in a variety of ways: in a basket with dipping sauces, á la chicken nuggets; in a scrumptious sandwich with romaine, tomato, red onion and pickles; doused with Buffalo Sauce, like chicken wings; or on top of a fresh spinach and romaine salad. The crunchy, housemade seitan is first-rate, and the dipping sauces are crave-worthy:

“meats” including fried Chick’n, Cajun “sausages” (including Boudin), barbecue tofu and Franny’s newest creation, vegan corndogs. Franny’s also makes what are possibly the most delicious sweet potatoes in Austin — crispy, pan-fried chunks of creamy perfection topped with a signature hot sauce. Cajun cooking is, in some ways, a natural candidate for vegan interpretation since its spices and flavorings are what make it so heartwarming and unmistakable. The southern comfort doesn’t stop at the entrees, however; Franny’s also makes an idyllic chocolate-pecan sheet cake. facebook.com/frannysatx EdibleAustin.com / 29

Reduce Your Rubbish by KELLY STOCKER

Illustration by JENNA NORTHCUTT, ROBUART AND SSSTOCKER

Trash

Recycling Center

edible ENDEAVOR

e don’t need to read another story about a whale with

chemicals, items that plug in, clothing and housewares, aerosol

a stomach full of plastics or an overflowing landfill

cans, batteries, tires, brush and yard trimmings. If the items they

to convince us to put the brakes on waste. Every day

collect are still viable, they give them away to anyone who needs

we're confronted by dire realities surrounding the environment and

them. Check the city’s free ReUse store in Southeast Austin, located

climate change. But the good news is that there are simple ways to

on the same site as the Drop-Off Center, for art supplies, clean-

be part of the solution. Here are six suggestions for reducing waste,

ing products and automotive fluids, plus free mulch and reblended

being a good environmental steward and making a big difference at

paint.

the individual level.

Recycle & Reuse is just one of many options for recycling unwanted items in town. Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore is a home improve-

KNOW THE RULES, AND STOP “WISHCYCLING”

ment store that accepts and resells furniture, appliances, excess

Years of messaging have, at long last, penetrated the national

used kids items, Anthropos Arts is always looking for musical gear

consciousness. Americans are recycling on an unprecedented scale.

and Dress for Success outfits their clients with professional clothing

Unfortunately, what most people are doing is “wishcycling” — putting

and beauty products.

building materials and housewares. AGE of Austin will take viable health and medical equipment, Any Baby Can needs new and gently

items in the recycle bin that they wish were recyclable, whether they are or not. As a result, in part, of this trend, China imposed

to pick up the slack.

THINK TWICE BEFORE TRASHING TEXTILES

Understanding which items go where can be confusing, but knowing

textiles. Textiles make up over 7 percent of the waste in U.S. land-

the rules is crucial for recycling. The phrase to remember is, “when

fills. Nearly 100 percent of all textiles are recyclable, but only 15

in doubt, throw it out.” Some of the top non-recyclable offenders

percent of consumer-used clothing is actually recycled. Some of

include anything with food or human waste (pizza boxes, napkins,

this is due to the uptick in fast, inexpensive fashion, but it’s also

tissues) along with “tanglers” — items like hoses, plastic bags and

due to lack of awareness around the issue. When buying clothes,

Christmas lights that can become entangled in the machines. The

instead of purchasing them new, consider thrifting or getting them

city provides resources, including a webpage called “What Do I Do

from online sites like Poshmark and ThredUp.

severe restrictions on what they’ll accept, rendering it extremely difficult to comply and leaving U.S. recycling companies scrambling

With...?” where you can search for an item in question. Austin’s residential recycling collection service does accept all recyclable items without sorting, so all you need to do is check for those emblematic recycling arrows on the items you throw into the bin.

Whether they “spark joy” or not, don’t trash items of clothing or

Donating or selling items is always the best alternative to throwing them away. There are organizations that distribute donations or get them to the secondary recycling market. If an item is beyond repair or reuse, you can take it to the Recycle & Reuse Drop-Off Center for collection. Austin Resource Recovery had a partner-

BREAK OUT OF THE CARDBOARD BOX

ship with Simple Recycling for curbside clothing collection, but the contract ended this past June. The City of Austin is currently

There’s a place for almost anything you're ready to be rid of.

working on reinstating the program with a new partner, but for

Austin’s Recycle & Reuse Drop-Off Center accepts household

now the program is on hold.

EdibleAustin.com / 31

Sunday-Tuesday

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edible ENDEAVOR

ADVOCATE FOR GREEN PURCHASING

COMPOST LIKE A COOL KID

Just as we’ve adjusted to looking at nutrition labels for calorie and

Composting can reduce landfill waste by up to 30 percent, and all

sugar counts, we need to look at product labels to determine whether

you need is a kitchen container and/or a compost bin. You can com-

they are — or can be — recycled. Opting for a recycled or recyclable

post anything that has recently been grown — this is especially

product helps create demand which, in turn, influences the industry

important because food waste releases methane, a gas that is over 20

at large.

times more potent than carbon dioxide, as it decomposes in landfills.

Commit to only buying office supplies that are reusable or made from recycled materials. The process of recycling paper results in up to 74 percent less air pollution than making it new. While you’re at it, encourage your business or employer to make the same commitment. Being an advocate and presenting environmentally friendly alternatives to standard practices is an easy win. If you’re exhausted from examining labels, become a brand loyalist. Brands like Adidas, Allbirds, Outdoor Voices and Patagonia are incorporating recycled materials into fashion. Several international companies, including PepsiCo, Unilever and L’Oréal, have pledged to work toward more environmentally friendly packaging. And local businesses like Confituras Little Kitchen and Casey's New Orleans Snowballs use 100 percent compostable serviceware. Knowing which companies are committed to sustainable practices can help you make a responsible purchase decision.

If you’re composting for your own household, don’t include meats, which can spoil and become a smelly problem. However, the City of Austin’s compost program accepts all food scraps, including meat, as well as yard scraps and soiled paper like burger bags and pizza boxes. The major obstacle here is inertia — remembering to put leftover and questionable produce in your compost instead of in the trash. Compost will evolve into nutrient-rich soil that can benefit your plants and garden. You can compost indoors with a worm bin or transfer your scraps outdoors if you have a yard. The other option is to take advantage of the city’s compost pickup service if it is available in your neighborhood (Austin Resource Recovery plans to add all curbside customers to the service by 2020). Anything green and growing benefits from the natural fertilizer, and the environment will benefit from your reduced carbon "foodprint."

WHICH CAN DOES IT GO IN? A/C FILTERS

Trash

ALUMINUM FOIL

Recycle clean balled foil

BAGGED RECYCLABLES

Remove from bag and recycle, but put bag in trash

BATTERIES

Recycle & Reuse Drop-off Center

BROKEN GLASS

Trash

CUPS WITH PLASTIC OR WAX COATING

Trash

light bulbs, program the thermostat to not run as often while you’re gone and add ceiling fans.

EXTRA RECYCLING

If your recycling can is full, place recyclables in a box next to it for pickup

FOOD CONTAINERS (PAPER)

Compost

FOOD CONTAINERS (NON-PAPER)

Trash

FOOD CONTAINERS (PLASTIC)

Recycle

FLUORESCENT LIGHT BULBS

Recycle & Reuse Drop-off Center

GARDEN HOSES, ROPE, LEASHES, WIRE & STRING

Trash

LIGHT BULBS

Trash

PIZZA BOX

Compost

TONER AND INK JET CARTRIDGES

Recycle & Reuse Drop-off Center

ZIPLOC BAG

Trash

ADOPT SMALL CHANGES AT HOME Waste isn’t only about what is going in the trash; it’s also about excessive use of any kind. Humans are creatures of habit, but changing those habits — even a little bit — can make a big difference. • Decrease energy consumption: Shift to energy-saving

• Reduce disposables: Use reusable grocery and lunch bags, switch to glass food storage and carry a reusable water bottle. • Eat your veggies: Hop on the “Meatless Monday” train to conserve water and reduce greenhouse gases. • Buy responsibly: Purchase refurbished electronics, donate working items and recycle the rest. • Power up: Choose rechargeable batteries — most can be recharged up to 1,000 times. • Opt out: Get less garbage mail by visiting optoutprescreen.com and DMAChoice.org.

EdibleAustin.com / 33

spotlight on LOCAL

Finding My Path by QWYNCI BOWMAN, URBAN ROOTS YOUTH FELLOW / photography by KASEY WILLIAMS

ave you ever experienced a moment where you stop, look at your life and realize that it’s wildly different than you could have ever imagined? Maybe you live in a

state you never thought you’d live in, or you’re working a job that wasn’t on your radar. I recently had one of those moments. As I chose my college major and made the decision to move across the country, I had to stop and wonder, “How did I get here?” The answer is simple: Urban Roots. On my first day at the Urban Roots farm in the spring of 2018, after the smiling team greeted me and my fellow interns — and after we recovered from being overwhelmed by the vivid colors of fresh produce that surrounded us — the farm manager, Lea, led us on a tour of the farm. At one point as we walked through the fields, she asked the group if we were interested in a snack. In unison, we said, “Yes!” It had been a long day, and we were starving. Without hesitation, Lea reached down into a patch of weeds and offered them to us as if they were candy. We were speechless. A handful of weeds was not the afternoon snack we were looking for, and we declined her offer. But if you asked any of the Urban Roots youth interns now … well, you wouldn’t have to ask. We’d already be eating them. Fast forward to that summer, when I immersed myself in farm culture, agriculture and food justice initiatives. Urban Roots introduced me to the idea of living an environmentally conscious lifestyle, and the more time I spent at Urban Roots, the more I became frustrated with the food habits I was seeing off the farm. At Urban Roots we were focused on sustainable agriculture and equitable access to healthy, affordable foods. Meanwhile, you couldn’t throw a rock without hitting a fast food restaurant in many cities and towns across Texas and the United States. During an Urban Roots community lunch on our farm, I shared these frustrations along with a vision to improve access to healthy food in my hometown: a community garden at my high school in Kyle. The idea behind the community garden is to pass on the 34 / EdibleAustin.com

knowledge I learned at Urban Roots to my fellow high school students with the hope of changing my city. After my speech, a woman from the audience approached me, wanting to know more about my community garden idea. After we spoke, she offered to make a donation toward the project. This was a powerful moment for me because it showed me that my idea was worth pursuing and my community was worth helping. It’s now been over six months since I broke ground on my school garden. With the help of my teachers and fellow students, I was able to build garden beds, buy soil and plant vegetables. I also created an organization on campus called the Lehman Soil Society. We meet every week, work in the gardens and give fresh produce to other organizations. None of this would have been possible without the generosity and knowledge of my Urban Roots family. At first, I believed that my involvement with Urban Roots was just a pitstop on my journey but now I see Urban Roots is the beginning of my path in life. I’m meant to move forward and continue to give back to my community through food and service. Learn more about Urban Roots at urbanrootsatx.org

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Edible Austin July/Aug 2019

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