edible HOSPITALITY
FRONT-OF-THE-HOUSE HEROES BY K R I ST I W I L L I S • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY D UST I N M EY E R
A
great server can transform a remarkable meal into the
an early dinner of Abita beers, fried catfish and shrimp on Fat
dining experience of a lifetime—making you feel welcome
Tuesday. “It was swamped and, as crazy as it was, it looked like a
and special with well-timed and light-handed expertise.
fun type of crazy,” says Andrews.
Exhibiting equal parts grace, humility, heart and charm, they
He went back to the restaurant a few days later to visit with
know what you need before you need it. These front-of-the-house
Curtis Clarke, the owner, and asked if he had any openings. “We
stars are some of the unsung heroes of the restaurant world and
talked for an hour and a half about everything but the restaurant,”
are an integral part of turning first-time customers into regulars.
he says. “Curtis told me they weren’t hiring, but he’d call me if something came up. About twenty-four hours later, he called, and
ROB ANDREWS, EVANGELINE CAFÉ Towering above the tiny four-seat bar tucked in the back of
I’ve been there every day since. It feels like home; the bayou off Brodie Lane.”
Evangeline Café, Rob Andrews is holding court—pouring beers
Ten years later, Andrews is still excited about every shift—
and listening intently with a genuine, beaming smile. From the
smile at the ready and looking forward to catching up with his
first hello, it’s clear that this South Austin Cajun café isn’t just
regulars. He has his lighter on standby for customers in need and
where this bartender works; it’s also a big part of his heart.
a stash of candy behind the bar in case one of his co-workers is
A native of the Mississippi Gulf Coast, Andrews discovered Evangeline Café while visiting a friend in Austin—showing up for
having a bad day. He wants to do whatever he can to make folks happy. “This is my fellowship; it’s my church.” EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
MARCH/APRIL 2018
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