Edible Columbus Fall 2019

Complimentary

edible COLUMBUS THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD

T he D airy P ersists +

HIGH SCHOOL SLOW FOOD LOCAL FALL BEER RAISING THE BAR PAWPAWS Member of Edible Communities No. 38 | Fall 2019 FALL19.indd 2

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For your contributing to my community and beyond side. farming state of Ohio.

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Nationwide and the Nationwide N and Eagle are service marks of Nationwide Mutual Insurance Company. © 2019 Nationwide GPO-0417AO (06/18) 10973205

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䘀䰀伀圀䔀刀匀 ☀ 䈀刀䔀䄀䐀 圀攀 戀攀氀椀攀瘀攀 椀渀 猀椀洀瀀氀攀 瀀氀攀愀猀甀爀攀猀㨀 ˻漀眀攀爀猀Ⰰ 戀爀攀愀搀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 愀 最漀漀搀 挀甀瀀 漀昀 挀漀û攀攀⸀ 䈀攀愀甀琀礀Ⰰ 猀甀猀琀攀渀愀渀挀攀 愀渀搀 挀漀渀瘀攀爀猀愀琀椀漀渀⸀ 圀攀 渀攀攀搀 愀氀氀 琀栀爀攀攀⸀ 圀攀 昀漀甀渀搀攀搀 䘀氀漀眀攀爀猀 ☀ 䈀爀攀愀搀 眀椀琀栀 琀栀攀 戀攀氀椀攀昀 琀栀愀琀 猀椀洀瀀氀攀 瀀氀攀愀猀甀爀攀猀 愀爀攀 洀漀猀琀 洀攀愀渀椀渀最昀甀氀 眀栀攀渀 礀漀甀 瀀愀爀琀椀挀椀瀀愀琀攀 椀渀 琀栀攀椀爀 挀爀攀愀琀椀漀渀⸀ 圀攀 愀爀攀 愀琀 栀攀愀爀琀 愀 氀攀愀爀渀椀渀最 猀瀀愀挀攀Ⰰ 愀 瀀氀愀挀攀 琀漀 氀愀礀 搀漀眀渀 礀漀甀爀 瀀栀漀渀攀 愀渀搀 攀渀最愀最攀 礀漀甀爀 栀愀渀搀猀 椀渀 琀栀攀 漀氀搀ⴀ眀漀爀氀搀 琀爀愀搀椀琀椀漀渀猀 漀昀 戀爀攀愀搀 戀愀欀椀渀最Ⰰ ˻漀眀攀爀 愀爀爀愀渀最椀渀最Ⰰ 愀渀搀 挀漀漀欀椀渀最 昀爀漀洀 愀 眀漀漀搀ⴀǻ爀攀搀 漀瘀攀渀⸀

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FALL 2019 | CONTENTS

DE PA RTMEN T S 3 EDITOR’S NOTE

5 #EDIBLECOLUMBUS 6 EAT

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10 CULTURE 14 DRINK 24 TRAVEL 35 OHIO AGRICULTURE 36 DIY 38 ADVERTISER DIRECTORY 41 HERO

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FE AT U RE S

A step back in time

By Gary Kiefer | Photography by Lesya Holzapfel

20 SLOW TIMES AT REYNOLDSBURG HIGH

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17 RAISING THE BAR

The first high school chapter of Slow Food USA sprouts at Reynoldsburg High School

By Nancy McKibben | Photography by Julian Foglietti

27 PAWPAWS

Ohio’s native tropical fruit

By Lynn Donegan | Photography by Devin Trout

30 THE DAIRY PERSISTS

A thriving organic dairy with a New Zealand mind-set

By Steven N. Berk | Photography by Devin Trout

C O V ER

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Photography by Devin Trout

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EDITOR’S NOTE

edible

T

he arrival of fall in Ohio means we leave behind the hottest weather of the summer, but we also lose our fresh tomatoes, sweet corn and peaches.

As the weather cools, it’s time to throw on sweatshirts and turn our attention to apples and squash and festivals celebrating the season.

COLUMBUS PUBLISHER

Franklin County Farm Bureau

You can count me among the seasonal changes, as this is my first issue working with Edible Columbus. But I’m an Ohio native, and I have been an editor at Ohio Magazine and The Columbus Dispatch, so it’s familiar terrain for me. I’m honored to be working with the great crew that brings this magazine to you.

With schools back in session, in this issue we’ll take you to Reynoldsburg, where the modern learning environment includes an urban garden and the exploration of careers in the food industry.

Also in these pages, you can learn about some changes in the agricultural landscape. The decline of dairy farms has some farmers looking at new models for the business. Meanwhile, there’s a new cash crop on the horizon since July, when Ohio dropped its ban on growing hemp.

You also will get a closer look at the pawpaw, the Ohio fruit that few Ohioans know about. It was designated as the official state native fruit in 2009, but you won’t find it in grocery stores.

If you want to see how pawpaws can be put to use, the Ohio Pawpaw Festival is the place to go. At this year’s festival, held on a hot September weekend in Athens County, I was able to sample pawpaw muffins, pawpaw eggrolls, pawpaw salsa and even pawpaw beer. In fact, 10 different Ohio brewers offered their own spins on pawpaw-infused beer.

I also watched a panel of judges at work in the Best Pawpaw competition, evaluating

Gary Kiefer

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER

Steven N. Berk

COPY EDITOR

Doug Adrianson

Digital Editor

appearance, taste and texture of the many entries. In the end, the crown went to Ron and Terry Powell, owners of Fox Paw Ridge Farm in Adams County near Cincinnati.

My Ohio perspective on eating local was enjoyably challenged this summer by a trip to Alaska, where the grocery store featured locally caught king salmon that was cheaper per pound than raspberries and cherries, which have to be imported.

It was an unexpected twist on my usual shopping experience.

I also had a chance to read Edible Alaska, which was a bit like meeting a distant relative. The 80-plus Edible magazines around the country are all locally owned and operated but share a common philosophy focused on local food.

Devin Trout DESIGN Devin Trout

WEB DESIGNER

Edible Feast

PHOTOGRAPHY + Illustration

Julian Foglietti | Lesya Holzapfel Nicole Rasul | Devin Trout

WRITERS Steven N. Berk | Lynn Marie Donegan Gary Kiefer | Nancy McKibben Nicole Rasul | Devin Trout ADVERTISING

Kirsten Marihugh kirsten@ediblecolumbus.com Suzanne Vela suzanne@ediblecolumbus.com

“Local” in Edible Alaska meant stories about cooking salmon, adding fresh sea asparagus to a salad and using native spruce tree tips in cooking.

Whatever local foods you are eating, we hope you have a delicious and bountiful fall season.

Gary Kiefer

Edible Columbus is brought to you by Franklin County Farm Bureau Board of Trustees: President, Leland Tinklepaugh | Secretary, Roger Genter Vice President, David Black | Dwight Beougher | Veronica Boysel Charles Hines | Denise Johnson | David Lewis Ross Fleshman | Nathan Zwayer | John Hummell Lewis Jones, Cassie Williams Edible Columbus

EDITOR IN CHIEF

@ediblecbus

CONTACT US

P.O. Box 21-8376, Columbus, Ohio 43221 info@ediblecolumbus.com ediblecolumbus.com

Edible Columbus is published quarterly and distributed throughout Central Ohio. Subscription rate is $25 annually. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.

@ediblecolumbus

.com

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Advertise With Us

“I advertise my business in Edible Columbus because

not only does it hit my target market that ranges from local foodies and chefs to those that may be just visiting the area for a short time and have a passion for wholesome and unique foods, but you become part of a community, the tapestry of what the local food movement is all about.

“

— Paul Freedman, Dutch Creek Winery

“Edible Columbus allows us to reach individuals

who care about animals and farming, just as we do. Their readers believe in local agriculture, and this support is invaluable to our farm.

“

— Katherine Harrison, Harrison Farm

To learn more about growing your business, contact Kirsten Marihugh or Suzanne Vela. kirsten@ediblecolumbus.com | suzanne@ediblecolumbus.com.

15 E. Olentangy St. Powell, Ohio 43065 614.822.9990 LocalRootsPowell.com

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Fall's Bounty

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#ediblecolumbus

Share your edible endeavours with us on Instagram via #ediblecolumbus!

Here are a few of our recent favorites... —Devin Trout

Top: @eat_thewholething, @nurserylanebakingco, @passportfoodie Middle: @tasting.with.tina, @j_moore87, @tastingcolumbus Bottom: @cvl614foodie, @littledatesbigplates, @thomasogara .com

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Charcuterie Board made with local ingredients Story and Photography by Devin Trout

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CHEESES: Black Radish Creamery 1

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Shenanigans, Farmhouse Tomme-Style Cheese. Raw cows’ milk. Caveaged 8-12 months. Signature black charcoal rubbed rind (they use foodgrade charcoal). Firm with semi-dry texture that develops tiny crystals as it ages. Strong, rich flavor with piquant finish that is reminiscent of a Pecorino only it’s made with co’w milk instead of sheep’s milk, as in traditional Pecorino.

Charlie’s Legend Clothbound Cheddar Cheese: Raw cow’s milk. Cave aged 6-10 months. Smeared with thyme—infused organic butter before being placed in cave for enhanced flavor. Mildly sharp, semi-dry texture.

Notes of butter, lightly floral and a hint of grass.

Bankston, Mini Brie/Camembert-Style Cheese. Pasteurized cow’s milk.

Aged 30+ days. Bright white edible bloomy rind. When young, it is firmer in texture and features notes of fresh cream with a tang. As it ages, it will develop a soft cream line just under the rind which will soften its overall texture and turn the flavor more buttery and savory.

MID-AMERICA

restaurant INNOVATION TECHNOLOGY & TRENDS

presented by the Ohio Restaurant Association

FEBRUARY

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We had the pleasure of working with North Country Charcuterie, who provided all of the meat and helped assemble the board. We enjoyed watching their team delicately place each piece and form it to perfection. We also had the pleasure of working with Black Radish Creamery, The Crazy Cucumber LLC, Impossible Jams, Flowers & Bread and Old Brooklyn Cheese Company, who supplied the rest of the ingredients for the board.

EAT

GREATER COLUMBUS CONVENTION CENTER C O L U M B U S ,

O H I O

If you’re in the restaurant, foodservice & hospitality industry in the Midwest …

THIS

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4,000+ industry attendees taste, sample and shop the show floor.

CHARCUTERIE: North Country Charcuterie 4 5

6

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Hoguera Spreadable Chorizo: Best enjoyed on a baguette or added to a favorite Spanish recipe, the sobrassada hits your tongue with a sultry surprise and fiery finish.

Lupo Salami: Deep, dark and mysterious, from the furthest reaches of the wild: A Russian Imperial Stout meets Mexican Mole to create a rich, globe-spanning flavor in this collaboration with Wolf’s Ridge Brewing of Columbus.

Herbed Wagyu Bresaola: Ohio—raised Wagyu beef eye of round, delicately flavored with a blend of aromatic herbs and spices. Traditionally sliced very thin and served with a drizzle of olive oil, lemon juice and fresh ground pepper.

No 1 Salami: Richest and creamiest salami, boldly flavored with cheese from Blue Jacket Dairy (Bellefontaine, OH), Chardonnay from Debonne Vineyards (Madison, OH), chopped garlic and fresh sage.

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exhibitors showcase their innovative products & services.

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professional education sessions on five stages within four tracks: Food & Beverage, Tech & Trends, Workforce Development, and Professional Services.

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M I D A M E R I C A R E S TA U R A N T E X P O . C O M

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is the season for family gatherings, tailgating and celebrations. Why not enjoy these moments with a locally made charcuterie board? For this article, we dove into the heart of the Columbus food scene and made a charcuterie board with all local ingredients. When making a charcuterie board, it is important to have a balance of sweet, salty and acidic. A go-to ingredient list is cheeses, meats, something with acidity, some bread or crackers and some form of fruit spread.

This is an industry-only show & not open to the public.

.com

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ACID: The Crazy Cucumber, LLC

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Horseradish: Just the right amount of spice; so tasty you won’t be able to stop.

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Garlic: Garlic crisps in every bite.

SAVORY: Old Brooklyn Cheese Company

10 Original IPA Mustard: #clevelandcaviar is the tag line of this unique mustard. It has a blend of jalapeno, kaffir lime and beer.

SWEET: Impossible Jams

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Rhuberry Bluebarb: Move over strawberries, there’s a new berry here to mingle with the tart bite of fresh rhubarb. It’s so good it makes us a little tongue-tied.

BREAD: Flowers & Bread

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Sourdough: The crispy crust and chewy, moist interior make this one of the most popular breads at the Clintonville bakery and cafe, which also offers classes in how to make it at home.

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Baguette: With a crust that crackles when you bite into it, this traditional French bread is a natural pairing with cheeses.

community microfarms food security economic opportunity systems approach nutritious food sustainable agriculture our community at justice studentJoin co-ops social discovery.osu.edu/InFACT community microfarms food security economic opportunity systems approach nutritious food sustainable agriculture 8

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.com

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OHIO’S EMBRACE OF HEMP

With the legalization of hemp at federal and state levels, Ohio growers and processors are gearing up to enter the crop’s fast-moving market.

Story and Photography by Nicole Rasul

F

or the first time since World War II, hemp is legally planted in several small patches across Ohio: Outside of the Reynoldsburg office of the Ohio Department of Agriculture (ODA), as well as in research plots at The Ohio State University and Central State University.

In fact, by this time next year, a multitude of Ohio growers – not just state employees and university researchers—are anticipated to be at work tending and harvesting hemp for the first time in decades. This is due to Gov. Mike DeWine’s July signing of Ohio Senate Bill 57, which overturned legislation banning the growing and processing of hemp within the state’s borders. Ohio’s embrace of hemp follows the federal legalization of the crop through the 2018 Farm Bill. Valued for its sturdy fiber, nutritious seed and healing cannabidiol (CBD) oil, hemp is experiencing an American renaissance. Banned for decades due to a case of mistaken identity with its botanical cousin marijuana, hemp contains

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CULTURE

negligible amounts of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), the chemical that triggers marijuana’s famed high. Hemp is increasingly sought for a variety of uses in the food, wellness and manufacturing industries.

A test plot near Dayton On a summer-like day in early September, Craig Schluttenhofer points to a smattering of hemp plants about a month old shooting up from the soil at the research farm of Central State University, where he is a research assistant professor of natural products.

They were planted in early August shortly after the Wilberforce school received a research license from ODA, making Central State the first academic institution in Ohio to plant hemp in decades.

The quick effort to seed the ground was aided by Schluttenhofer’s connections in Kentucky, where hemp has been legal since 2014 and where he sourced the seed to start Central State’s crop. The researcher completed his doctoral studies and post-doctoral work at the University of Kentucky.

Due to Ohio’s longtime hemp ban, most agriculturalists in Ohio have never worked with the crop. Schluttenhofer, however, is somewhat of a veteran in America’s fledgling hemp industry with five growing seasons under his belt from his time in Kentucky.

In anticipation of hemp legalization in Ohio, he was recruited to Central State in early 2019 to serve as the university’s hemp research specialist.

“I’ve been doing a lot of grant writing while waiting to actually grow something,” Schluttenhofer says with a chuckle in reference to the months spent preparing for the crop’s legalization in Ohio.

Upon the signing of Senate Bill 57, academic organizations were permitted to file immediately for licenses to grow the crop for research purposes.

Meanwhile, as of press time, ODA was at work finalizing the rules for all remaining growers and processors who will also need licenses to plant, harvest and process hemp. These regulations are expected in the coming weeks after review and approval by the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Under the midday sun, Schluttenhofer points out the varieties in trial on Central State’s farm. There are three European dual-purpose versions for use as grain or fiber. Also planted is a Chinese variety grown for fiber, which is outperforming the others.

Schluttenhofer reflects on a recent day of training he helped to organize for Extension educators from both Central State and Ohio State. He says that in a week he’s hosting a field day at Central State’s farm and that he’ll be at Farm Science Review, an annual farm show hosted by Ohio State, presenting information on the crop to growers in attendance.

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“There is definitely opportunity,” Schluttenhofer says about the booming national industry and the flood of interest from Ohio’s agricultural community. VoteHemp, an advocacy group, reports .com

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Fall is for planting ! let's share this season shop Local. columbus • DUBLIN NEW ALBANY • DELAWARE

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Call today to schedule a Consultation!

Your Agribusiness needs point in one direction, Leavitt Group. We can cover your risk for all your current and future needs.

Grove City Office: 4200 Hoover Rd. Grove City, Oh 43123 Columbus Office: 4942 Reed Rd. Columbus, Oh 43220 Grandview Office: 1885 W. 5th Ave. Columbus, Oh 43212 Canal Winchester Office: 6207 Gender Rd. Canal Winchester, Oh 43110

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Securities offered through Registered Representatives of Cambridge Investment Research, Inc., a broker-dealer, member FINRA / SIPC. Advisory services offered through Cambridge Investment Research Advisors, Inc., a Registered Investment Adviser. Cambridge and Secure Path Advisory Group, Inc. are not affiliated. The information in this email is confidential and is intended solely for the addressee. If you are not the intended addressee and have received this email in error, please reply to the sender to inform them of this fact. We cannot accept trade orders through email. Important letters, email, or fax messages should be confirmed by calling (your phone number). This email service may not be monitored every day, or after normal business hours. Information to consider when your representative changes firms: finra.org/industry/broker-recruitment-notice Leavitt Group is not affiliated with Cambridge.

FALL 2019

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that since the passage of the 2018 Farm Bill, hemp acreage in the U.S. has quadrupled. One industry group, New Frontier Data, estimates that by 2022 the U.S. hemp market will reach a value of $1.3 billion, tripling since 2018’s $390 million valuation.

Ohio is one of the last states to legalize production of the crop—by the end of 2018, 41 states had enacted legislation to grow hemp— and some fear that Ohio’s growers will struggle to catch up in the fast and furious national hemp race.

However, Schluttenhofer isn’t concerned. “It’s still very lucrative,” he says about the industry overall. “There is a place for Ohio farmers in all three markets,” he notes, referring to grain, fiber and CBD varieties of the crop. The Ohio Farm Bureau Federation has expressed the same, publicly noting that hemp has the potential to be the state’s most-grown crop after corn and soybeans.

Next steps for Ohio growers Julie Doran, a fifth-generation farmer and founder of the Ohio Hemp Farmers Cooperative, says that more than 200 people from various sectors have expressed interest in membership in her fledgling industry organization. Doran says that her early work on behalf of the cooperative, which was launched after the federal legalization of the crop, focused on educating legislators on the potential value of hemp in Ohio.

Kristin Boggs, a state representative for Ohio’s 18th District which includes parts of Columbus, co-sponsored Senate Bill 57. Boggs calls Ohio’s agricultural community “innovative” and “not risk adverse,” noting that she looks forward to their embrace of hemp in Ohio. “Because this is such a new industry, we’re really going to have to listen to the stakeholders that are on the ground, that are doing the cultivation, the processing, the manufacturing, and tailor our policies to what they are telling us they need to be competitive at a national level,” Boggs says.

one can handle as hemp is intensive to harvest and prepare for processing, particularly the variety grown for CBD which most growers have expressed interest in due to the plant’s high returns.

Schluttenhofer says growers must do their research to understand cannabis varieties, preferred growing conditions and best management practices, especially since there are no approved pesticides for hemp to control weeds, insects or disease. “The crop essentially follows an organic program, whether growers want to or not,” he says.

With federal and state government support now secured and grower interest booming, Schluttenhofer says that industry investment will soon follow. “The area where we’ll need the most development is getting processors in the state, but I think they’ll come,” he said, noting Ohio’s relatively large population compared to surrounding states should help to attract them. “The CBD processors are going to come first just because the money is there but building up the infrastructure for grain and fiber processing is going to be important for success in those areas.”

Nicole Rasul writes about food and agriculture. Follow her on Twitter @rasulwrites or view her writing online at NicoleRasul.com.

Harrison Farm Celebrations. Animals. Teaching.

“I advise all farmers, or anyone interested in getting into the industry, to go to events,” Doran says. “They are happening all over the U.S.,” she says in reference to gatherings like the hemp summit organized by her cooperative. “A lot of farmers think they can just jump into it. It’s a new crop unlike any other—it’s nothing like corn or soybeans. Farmers need education if they are interested in growing hemp.”

Schluttenhofer agrees, saying that “there are a number of nuances with the plant that are different than other crops.” In his outreach work, he cautions growers to start small, to plant only as much as

Photo by Amber Hughes

Doran’s cooperative held its second hemp summit this fall to connect growers, processors and others interested in the crop.

She says that once the ODA regulations are released, her group will mobilize in preparation for the 2020 growing season: procuring seed or clones in bulk, investing in shared equipment, and networking to discuss best management practices and industry opportunity.

Now booking 2019 + 2020 Holiday for Open Farm

12/7, 12/14, 12/21 1pm to 4pm

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‘

Id have a beer Local brews to pair with bonfires and flannel shirts

By Mike Troy at Crafted Drafts, Photography by Devin Trout

Pumpkin Beer / Rivertown / Cincinnati Pumpkin ale / ABV 5.2% Notes: This has been one of the most-requested pumpkin beers made in Ohio over the last several years.

Each year it’s different as the brewery goes to a local spice monger in Cincinnati and chooses one of three specially curated spice packets. Even though each year tastes different, they are always good—which is why it’s so highly sought after.

Pairings: Turkey dinner; pumpkin pie; stuffing

Wulver / Thirsty Dog / Akron Bourbon barrel–aged Scottish Wee Heavy Ale / ABV 12% Notes: This bourbon-aged beer is strong in flavor and alcohol. While it smells like a fresh snifter pour of bourbon, it still has balance of flavor so it’s not like you’re drinking a shot of booze. The vanilla from the bourbon and wood pairs well with the Scottish red base beer, amping up the sweet notes of the Wee Heavy’s toffee and caramel flavors. As it warms, it becomes bolder and more of a true fall evening beer meant to warm you up.

Pairings: Steak dinner; balsamic roasted Brussels sprouts; vanilla ice cream; cigars

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Coffee Brown Ale / Mt. Carmel / Cincinnati Cold press coffee–infused brown ale / ABV 6%

DRINK

Notes: This beer has all of the pros of coffee and none of the cons, though you won’t get a big caffeine buzz off of this beer. If you are sensitive to caffeine, this beer will affect you and keep you up at night. Caffeine aside, this brown ale smells like you walked into a local coffeehouse. It tastes the same too. Brown ales seem to really embrace cold-press coffee as well since each of the two flavors tamps down any bitterness the other one might create. So instead of having a bitter or thin brown ale, you have a smooth, mild nut brown ale with a big coffee flavor minus any coffee bitterness. It finishes nice and smooth, too, so your palate isn’t wrecked by the coffee or beer.

Pairings: Breakfast and brunch foods; chicken salad with pecans or almonds, dry-rub barbecue brisket Oktoberfest / Wolf’s Ridge / Columbus German-Style Marzen / ABV 5.4% Notes: This is an excellent representation of the style.

Most people are familiar with Sam Adams Oktoberfest, a truly great beer. This one is a little drier with a touch less sweetness but with a bit more malt complexity to it. Definitely a great beer to sit back and relax with by a fire.

Pairings: German fare; pork chops; banana nut bread

MojoFlo / Sideswipe / Columbus Hoppy amber ale / ABV 6% Notes: This local brewery made a beer for a local band called MojoFlo. This popular fall seasonal is great for those who don’t like all of the pumpkin beers out at this time or for those who really just want to drink something hoppy. Don’t dismiss this one if you are not a hop fan. If you drink this warmer, like 55° to 60°F, the rich and sweet amber malts will come out as very smooth and caramel—like, which will temper the bright hop flavor, making it very balanced Pairing: Salmon salad with a Dijon mustard vinaigrette, sushi, roasted chicken Find more info at crafteddrafts.com .com

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Stone Fort / Seventh Son / Columbus English-style brown ale / ABV 5.3% Notes: This beer from Seventh Son is named after the oldest structure in Ohio. It’s a style of beer that some people really like, an English brown ale, while others are not huge fans. English brown ales tend to be light in body, with a crisp and malt-bitter finish that comes off as metallic or mineral tasting. That’s just how the style works. The beauty of this beer is that it has that refreshing brown flavor without any of the negative aspects. This is one of the best brown ales you are going to find anywhere AND it just happens to be made right here in Columbus.

Pairing: Mashed potatoes and gravy, poultry, beef stew (even better with beef stew made with Stone Fort) Festbier/ Saucy Brew Works / Cleveland German-Style Marzen / ABV 6.17% Notes: If you’re unfamiliar with Cleveland-based Saucy, they are fairly new to the Central Ohio beer scene. This Marzen is proving to be one of the better surprises of the year, as Oktoberfests go. This beer is a great representation of the modern style — lighter, crisper and more refreshing than some of the more typical caramel-flavored drinks out on the market. This is closer to what the Germans are making and drinking in Munich this time of year.

Pairing: Sausage; pretzels and pub cheese; sauerkraut

Pope’s Imperial Pumpkin Ale / Millersburg Brewing Company / Millersburg Pumpkin ale / ABV 9% Notes: When people run out for pumpkin beer this is the kind of beer that they are running for. This tastes like a pumpkin pie and is 9% alcohol, too, with heavy amounts of spice and gourd. It’s so good that it won bronze at the World Beer Cup that only happens every other year and is a competition for the whole world to compete in. Bronze at the World Beer Cup is a big deal, so if you’ve not had this beer, make sure you do as it won’t last long. It has become many people’s favorite pumpkin beer.

Pairing: Thanksgiving food; cool flannel evenings with a warm fire and friends

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RAISING THE BAR A step back in time

By Gary Kiefer, Photography by Lesya Holzapfel

C

olumbus is on the move, growing quickly and looking to the future. Modern new buildings rise. Self-driving electric shuttle buses circle Downtown. Drones fly overhead.

And, yet, Columbus has managed to hold on to some grand pieces of the past ... and some of those are bars.

The Columbus bar scene has also grown and changed over the years, bringing new rooftop patios, wine bars, taprooms and even a craft beer hotel (Brew Dog’s Dog House). Whether you are looking for a drink or just a place to socialize, Columbus today offers a wide variety of choices.

If you want to step back into a world where the pace of life was slower and multitasking was not part of the language, you can find that, too. Come along as we take you to four Columbus bars that will serve you a century-old piece of history with your cocktail.

1. Barcelona Restaurant & Bar, 263 E. Whittier St. Consistently named one of the city’s best restaurants, Barcelona has been serving traditional Spanish flavors since 1996.

But the German Village building it occupies has a much longer history, dating to the 1890s.

Take a seat at the bar and look over the extensive wine list or the cocktail menu. Look over the magnificent oak bar as well, with large columns at each end featuring carved capitals atop them.

Built by the Brunswick Company in 1907, the bar has been the focal point of this space for more than a century. (Brunswick was a Cincinnati woodworking operation that started out building carriages, then found there was bigger money to be made in billiard tables, bowling alleys and ornate bar fixtures.)

For most of the last century, the establishment at the corner of East Whitter and Jaeger Streets was known as Deibel’s even as it passed through a succession of owners before closing. Barcelona’s redesign of the space kept the significant historical elements intact.

It’s not just the bar that delivers the history lesson here. The original tin ceiling remains, and the uneven wooden floor shows the wear of many decades. It’s a comfortable space, one that has been a hangout for Columbus folks for 100 years. It’s a place to slow down and just enjoy.

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2. Service Bar, 1230 Courtland Ave. This is a place where the history comes in layers. As you approach the Short North building, the most noticeable feature is the translucent tower housing the distillery equipment of Middle West Spirits. That part is new, built in 2017 on top of the 1920s-era one-story warehouse where Middle West began operations in 2010.

The addition allowed the company to open its own restaurant/ tasting room called Service Bar. Walk in the front door and you will immediately notice the elegant antique back bar, another wooden masterpiece made by Brunswick dating back to the 1880s. This one features triple arches with arched mirrors and elaborate carving. Saved from a Cincinnati bar and restored, it provides a classic saloon vibe to the room.

The drink menu naturally features the house-made spirits in creative cocktails. If you’re seeking a drink as classic as the bar, they offer signature versions of a Manhattan and Old Fashioned.

The stylish blending of modern and historical elements, along with an innovative food menu, earned Service Bar mentions in the New York Times and Food & Wine magazine.

3. Citizens Trust, 51 N. High St. Look for the side door on Gay Street, climb the stairs and step back in time. The bar here is modern marble, but the space transports you back to an earlier era in other ways. Vaulted ceilings, tall classic columns and hand-painted friezes are clues that you are actually in a century-old bank built in Classical Revival style at the corner of North High and Gay Streets in downtown Columbus.

The sophisticated cocktail bar takes its name from the original occupant: the Citizens Savings and Trust Company.

When Columbus-based developer The Edwards Companies wanted to remodel the building into apartments and retail, some serious effort went into recapturing its original glory. To restore the columns, the Kephart architecture firm said they “found the grandson of the original plasterer who still had the original molds and was able to re-cast the columns.”

Head to the bar to place your order for one of the many inventive cocktails. There are more than 30 on the menu, and the bartenders will help you choose one — or go off the menu to make what you want. While you’re up there, take note of a couple more nice touches: the antique cash register and the original bank vault behind the bar. (Another bank vault serves as the mailroom for residents of the building’s apartments.)

Then take your drink to one of the many seating areas, from couches to plush chairs to tall tables, some near a pool table. If a space can be both open and cozy at the same time, this is it.

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4. Asterisk Supper Club, 14 N. State St., Westerville When owner Megan Ada took over a longtime pizza place in uptown Westerville in 2016, she set out to create a space that would be “a throwback tribute to when times were slower and when friends and neighbors would gather around the supper table.”

Asterisk Supper Club delivers that atmosphere, with shelves of books that run from floor to ceiling and antique chandeliers over the dining area. Afternoon tea is part of the daily ritual.

But the room is dominated by the dramatic bar, another antique from the Brunswick Company, hand-carved in 1892. This one is beautiful mahogany, 22 feet long, with triple arches, arched mirrors and a carved head looking down at you from top center. Bar manager Steven Riska tells visitors the bar appears briefly in the 1960 western film Guns of the Timberland, starring Alan Ladd. A poster for the film hangs on the wall next to the bar — and Riska has made a cocktail named for the movie. “It was also Frankie Avalon’s first movie role,” he says. The bar ended up in storage for decades in Colorado, but was rescued and restored by Wooden Nickel Antiques in Cincinnati, which installed it at Asterisk during the renovations.

Sitting at the bar, it does feel like being in a saloon of a different era. But the saloon would have been in a different place as well, since turn-of-the-century Westerville was not only dry, but also was home to the national headquarters of the Anti-Saloon League.

It would take until 2004 for Westerville voters to approve liquor sales.

Today Asterisk offers more than 25 custom cocktails to go with its beer and wine list. It’s a sure sign that, despite the vintage ambiance, times have changed.

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SLOW TIMES AT REYNOLDSBURG HIGH

The first high school chapter of Slow Food USA sprouts at Reynoldsburg High School

By Nancy McKibben, Photography by Julian Foglietti

O

nce a Disney World chef, teacher Trevor Horn today is planting a different kind of magic kingdom at Reynoldsburg High, one where apple trees flourish by the tennis courts and tomatoes and cucumbers thrive in the library’s courtyard, planted by students and free for all to pick.

The subject is food I visited Trevor —35 years old, bearded and enthusiastic—at his large, well–equipped classroom in August. Fridges, microwaves and sinks line three walls, and countertops hold piles of watermelons and pumpkins, grown on site.

His students will process the pumpkins, make pumpkin pies and plant the saved seeds next spring.

Intriguing objects populate the room. A worm composter sits under a table (“no time to use that one yet,” Trevor says). Two hydroponic growing towers, donated by Franklin County Food Services, dominate the back of the classroom, and the students sit at six black-topped lab tables.

A large bowl of school-grown tomatoes waits on Trevor’s desk, bound for a pasta sauce demo later in the week.

In this room and outside in the gardens, he teaches two Ag and Natural Resources classes to 60 students, two Nutrition classes to 56, oversees the senior projects of 20 and heads up the Slow Food and Greenhouse class of 16.

A single quote, one of Trevor’s, dominates the smartboards on the front wall of the classroom: “We are a product of our choices, not a product of our environment.”

From Michigan to Ohio via Florida Trevor grew up in Woodlawn, Michigan, which he compares to Reynoldsburg: “rural meets urban with a lot of diversity. ” He attended Madonna University in Michigan as a basketball player and elementary education major, switching to culinary school after a career-ending basketball injury.

At Le Cordon Bleu in Orlando, Trevor cooked like he played basketball: “The chef was the coach, my fellow students were the team, the recipes were the playbook.

And I had the same work ethic as in basketball. I was passionate.”

Passion and luck handed him an executive chef position at a Michigan country club by age 24, then whisked him to Florida at the invitation of Disney World Chef Tim Keating, now retired. “I cooked mostly at the Flying Fish Restaurant, which was fine dining,” Trevor says.

Despite “great job security and the opportunity to learn a lot” (not to mention the fun of creating menu items like “blue milk” for a Star Wars–themed café), Trevor wanted a job that gave him more free time after his son Colton was born. And time with his son reawakened the desire to teach, this time using the medium that most inspires him: food.

Vessel of opportunity Reynoldsburg is “extremely culturally diverse,” Trevor says, a mix that includes Ghanaians, Somalis, Latinos and Nepalese. The high school comprises 3,000 students and five academies on two campuses. Trevor teaches at the 500-student STEM academy, Human Services and Health Science.

He notes that “we are often uneducated in our choices, from GMOs to nutrition,” moved by marketing hype rather than solid information. He aims “to educate students so they can make better choices.”

Trevor sees food as a “vessel of opportunity” for his students—opportunities to make connections about food and health, food and resources, food and sustainability, food and careers. To demonstrate the high-tech career possibilities that abound in food and agriculture, Trevor asks students to choose a possible career path and research it. “There is everything from drones that monitor soil temperatures and water levels in a farmer’s field, to plant genetics and agricultural smart phone apps.” .com

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Conversely, students learn that agriculture and food production sometimes take steps backward to go forward, returning to practices like crop rotation and biodiversity rather than monocultures to improve soil quality.

The other important component in empowering students is growing food themselves, both outdoors and in hydroponic systems, some of which are student-designed. “When you see how long it takes even to produce salad greens,” Trevor says, “you start to value what’s on your plate.”

Senior Hayden McLean echoes this thought when I chat with him outside class.

“I like the idea of localizing food,” he says. “Not something that grows halfway across the country and you have to use pesticides on it and then it spoils. A tomato tastes better when you see it grow.”

First in the nation In his first year of teaching, Trevor organized a Friday after-school club about food and sustainability. A chef from Due Amici restaurant demonstrated Italian: mozzarella from scratch with a reduction of balsamic vinegar and olive oil, strange new ingredients for many.

Students celebrated Oktoberfest with a butcher from local Holly Hill Farms. He made bratwurst, Trevor cooked spaetzle and red cabbage, and the students baked an “apple strudel-ish” dessert. Later that year, they made eggnog in a sous vide cooker and raised funds for their club by selling homemade goodies like salted caramel dip to teachers.

The same students began erecting a greenhouse, donated

by Battelle, on the unused school tennis courts. A Mid-Ohio Foodbank grant provided materials for raised beds and compost pits, and later, equipment and a farm stand for homegame produce sales.

Spurred by student interest, Trevor became a board member of Slow Food Columbus. Their vision of food that is “good, clean and fair for all” was in sync with Trevor’s vision to empower his students with the knowledge to “make informed decisions and support sustainable practice.” He proposed that the school club become a high school chapter of Slow Food, the first one in the country.

Director of Slow Food Columbus Mark Anthony Arceno, a PhD candidate at OSU with a specialty in wine and climate change, thought Trevor’s ideas “sounded like a great opportunity.”

“School gardens at grade-school level have been successful, so the stage is set,” says Mark Anthony. “We hope that the Reynoldsburg chapter can serve as a model for other chapters.”

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The club is now an elective class, Slow Food and Greenhouse, at RHS.

Solving real—life problems While growing at the school presents challenges, Trevor sees them as opportunities for students to solve “real-life problems.” Some examples: Problem: No outside water source.

Solution: 60-gallon rain barrels at all four corners of the greenhouse.

Problem: The rain barrels provide some water, but not enough.

Solution: Possibly a student-designed-and-built water tower and drip irrigation to save water.

Problem: No outside electricity to power greenhouse fans.

Solution: Solar-powered fans.

Problem: Japanese beetles in the apple trees. No chemical pesticides allowed.

Solution: Traps and nematode oil.

Generous grants and community support solve other problems. Donations have included confiscated grow lights for inside gardening (from the Reynoldsburg Police Department), eight Jonathan and Granny Smith apple trees (Strader’s Garden Center) and compost manure (The Paddock Stables).

And students give back, Trevor says. “This year’s senior projects include supporting biodiversity in the local ecosystem by planting flowers and milkweed and making bird and bat houses.” Other students are working to create a food pantry for high school students, while others teach gardening to younger students in the school system.

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Many of his students have no experience in growing. Senior Nailah Harris, who is taking the Slow Food Greenhouse class, admits to being “a little scared” of her first venture in gardening, but “Anything that helps the earth, it attracts me.” She adds, “I always liked the idea of going my own way and taking charge of my own health.”

And that is just the kind of thinking that Trevor wants to encourage.

For more information about Slow Food Columbus, visit: slowfoodcolumbus.org.

Nancy McKibben is happy to combine her loves of eating and writing with the opportunity to advocate for sustainable agriculture in the pages of Edible Columbus.

Her latest project is Kitschy Cat Alphabet, a rhyming alphabet book in postcards. She is also a novelist, poet and lyricist, the mother of six and the wife of one.

View her work at nancymckibben.com; contact her at nmckibben@leader.com. .com

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TRAVEL

THE BOURBON AFFAIR Reviving Downtown Findlay – One Bourbon at a Time

By Steven N. Berk, Photography by Devin Trout The county seat of Hancock County is home to a posh yet inviting speakeasy bar called The Bourbon Affair. Neatly nestled in the city’s business district, the bar is located on Crawford Street, which was once lined with empty storefronts and dilapidated buildings. Today this street is thriving with bars, restaurants and a brewery, and it is gaining a reputation as Findlay’s own version of Bourbon Street. The Bourbon Affair is an essential stop for locals and out-of-town guests.

FINDLAY

COLUMBUS

Started in 2015 by Ryan and Staci Leonard, the bar exceptionally replicates a 1930s-style speakeasy.

“It was born out of Ryan and I being empty nesters and our love for bourbon,” says Staci. “We had made several trips to Kentucky’s famed Bourbon Trail and wanted to bring an aspect of that back here to Findlay. There was an unfilled niche for this type of bar, and we wanted to create something that was both relaxed and refined.”

She and her husband both work full-time jobs outside the bar.

Both agree the endeavor gives them an opportunity to give back to their community and to share their passion.

While the neighborhood outside is bustling with the sounds of a city bringing itself back to life, inside the bar no detail is overlooked — down to the white shirts and vests the bartenders don as uniforms. Syrups and bitters are house-made. The extensive cocktail list includes classics such a Manhattan but also avant-garde cocktails, including my personal favorite: Luke’s Bourbon-N-Smoke. Watching the cocktails being made with such acumen and flair makes each savory sip only fitting for such a work of art.

When asked about what lives in the Leonards’ personal liquor cabinet, they said it rotates. “The hunt for new and exciting bourbons is half the fun,” says Ryan.

Bars, much like bourbons, are not created equal. The Bourbon Affair takes you back to an era and style of drinking that exemplify a touch of class with a slight bourbon burn on the back end. A true American classic, bourbon is experiencing a renaissance. The spirit with humble beginnings as corn and creek water is storming its way back onto cocktail menus across the country. But look no further than Findlay to find your next favorite bourbon cocktail.

The beautiful bar made from harvested ash trees from the Leonards’ property is uniquely lavish and welcoming. The dress code for the patrons ranges from suits and ties to shorts and flip-flops.

Stepping into a bar with over 100 varieties of bourbon and whiskey on the shelves can be intimidating for a novice of the brown spirits, but 30 seconds talking with head bartender Luke Kish — whose beard is just as impressive as his drinks — will assuage all your hesitations.

“I enjoy making drinks and talking to people about bourbon because I have such a passion for it,” he says. “There is no judgment here, because no two palates are alike so people are naturally going to like different things.”

Ryan Leonard echoes that sentiment: “Bourbon education is a part of our mission. We offer flights and tastings to allow folks to find which variety best suits them. We also offer a full bar and are just as happy serving a Jack & Coke as a seasonal cocktail.” .com

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PAWPAWS Ohio’s Native Tropical Fruit

By Lynn Donegan, Photography by Devin Trout

I

tasted my very first pawpaw this September. Slicing through the thin skin of a perfectly ripe one that had just been shaken from the tree, I couldn’t wait to try this unusual fruit. Holding half of the fruit in one hand, I scooped out a small spoonful of the yellow flesh, working around the shiny, bulky seeds. I took my first bite, unsure of what to expect. I was instantly struck by the pawpaw’s unique flavor: warm and rich, somewhat resembling the flavor of banana, but stronger. The texture made me think of a mango, only creamier.

“Describing the taste of pawpaw is challenging,” says Steve McGinnis, a service forester for the Ohio Department of Natural Resources.

“It’s a little like a cross between banana and mango with the graininess of a pineapple. To many it is considered an ‘acquired taste.’ This is most often due to the pulp consistency rather than the flavor.”

He’s found that “people with a sensitivity to food textures are typically not fans of pawpaw.” But despite its similarities to other fruits, the pawpaw has a flavor all its own. It’s a fruit you really have to experience for yourself.

September is peak season for pawpaws in Ohio. Sometimes called Indiana banana, Appalachian banana, poor man’s banana and other names, the pawpaw is the largest native fruit in North America and became Ohio’s official native fruit in 2009. Part of the Annonaceae family, the pawpaw can be found as far south as Florida, as far north as Canada and as far west as Texas.

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Pawpaws in the Past

The pawpaw made its first appearance in recorded history in 1541. During Hernando de Soto’s expedition, one of the members wrote about a fruit that Native Americans were cultivating in the Mississippi Valley. In fact, it is believed that this was the time when the fruit was christened “pawpaw” because of its similarity to the papaya.

George Washington planted pawpaw trees at Mount Vernon, and Thomas Jefferson also grew them at Monticello. Lewis and Clark ate pawpaws to survive at one point in 1806, and pawpaws provided pioneers with food as well. Since then, the pawpaw has been featured in one of John James Audubon’s paintings and has also shown up in a folk song you might recognize: “Way down yonder in the pawpaw patch”.

“Pawpaws have always been an important food source to the people of Ohio,” says Steve. “Prior to European settlement, Native Americans gathered pawpaws every year in late summer. Later, pawpaws were utilized by settlers and annually used for trade as early Ohioans prepared for winter.”

How to Identify a Pawpaw Pawpaw trees are deciduous, meaning they lose their leaves every year, and stay relatively small. Look for large, shiny dark green leaves (which may grow up to a foot long) that become wider towards the tip. In the fall, the leaves may turn yellow or golden brown. In the spring, look for maroon flowers with six petals — three large ones on the outside, and three smaller ones inside. Although the flowers are attractive, they give off an unpleasant odor.

Pawpaw trees have an alternating branch pattern and the bark is gray and smooth, which becomes bumpy over time. Because pawpaws send out new shoots called suckers via a single root system, you may discover an entire patch of pawpaws growing in the same area.

The most exciting part about the pawpaw tree is, of course, the fruit. Growing up to six inches long, pawpaws are shaped like a potato with a smooth skin. Fruit can be green, yellow or brown, often with black spots, and you may find them hanging in clusters or alone.

Cultivating the Pawpaw Perhaps one of the most important things to remember when planting a pawpaw tree is the fact that pawpaw trees do not self-pollinate. This means that if you want your pawpaw tree to produce fruit, you’ll have to plant a genetically different pawpaw tree nearby, which will allow for cross-pollination. Unlike with many other trees, flies and beetles — not bees — are responsible for pollinating the pawpaw flower.

While birds, squirrels, raccoons, opossums and even foxes enjoy its tasty fruit, the pawpaw is undesirable to deer. In fact, according to the National Park Service, deer have played a significant role in the spread of pawpaw trees. By feeding on other plants

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and trees, the deer allow the pawpaw to grow in peace, even making way for the further spread of the pawpaw tree. And since the tree isn’t threatened by disease or pests, its future is certainly promising.

Picking & Preparing Pawpaws You can test if a pawpaw is ripe by feeling the outside for a soft give, like you would a mango. A great method for gathering the fruit, especially if it’s out of reach, is to gently shake the tree and gather the falling fruit.

It’s best to enjoy the ripe fruit within two to three days, but you can extend shelf life by storing them in the refrigerator, from one to three weeks, depending on how ripe they are. You can even freeze the pawpaw pulp for later use. If you’re in a hurry for the fruit to ripen, Steve says that storing them in a paper bag can help.

One of the simplest ways to enjoy a pawpaw is to cut it in half or lengthwise and scoop out the flesh with a spoon, removing the seeds, which, like the skin, are not edible. In baking, pawpaw fruit can be used as a substitute for bananas, as in bread or muffins. Spice up your smoothie with the unique flavor of pawpaw, or make your own pawpaw ice cream or pudding.

“There are an endless number of ways to prepare pawpaw fruits, but they can get messy,” Steve warns. “Be prepared to remove a lot of seeds. I most often halve them like you would an avocado, and carefully remove the seeds with spoon. With the peel serving as the bowl removing the seeds helps work the pulp into a kind of custard which you can eat right then and there.”

I would drive all the way across town for Weiland’s chicken salad.

I know this because I do it at least once a week.

-Steve C, Weiland’s Customer Our full-service deli has a wonderful variety of meats, cheeses, & salads (including our famous chicken salad), plus hot & cold ready-to-go foods!

3600 Indianola Ave. (in Clintonville) 614-267-9878 • WeilandsMarket.com Monday-Saturday: 9 a.m.-8 p.m. • Sunday: 10 a.m.-7 p.m.

Health Benefits of Pawpaws As if you needed another reason to try this juicy fruit, the pawpaw is packed with nutrients, rivaling — and at times surpassing — more familiar fruits such as apples, bananas and oranges in vitamin and mineral content.

“Pawpaws are an excellent source of fiber,” says Steve. They’re also high in vitamin A, vitamin C, potassium, iron, magnesium and more.

If you missed out on this year’s pawpaw harvest, or have yet to try a pawpaw, I hope you’ve been inspired to seek out this fascinating fruit next year, whether at the annual Ohio Pawpaw Festival, a local farmers market or in your own backyard. Better yet, plant a few trees and start your own pawpaw patch!

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THE DAIRY PERSISTS A New Zealand mind-set helps local couple’s farm thrive

By Steven N. Berk Photography by Devin Trout

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A Dairy Dilemma

M

ilk is a bargain for shoppers at the grocery store, but those low prices are a factor in the decline of Ohio’s dairy industry, once a staple of rural farming communities.

The industry is going through a profound transition as many family dairy farms, facing meager or nonexistent profit margins, choose to cease operations. According to the Ohio Department of Agriculture, more than 650 dairy farms have shut down in the past three years, leaving just under 2,000 operating in the state today.

This systematic contraction impacts not only family farms, but the support industries that rely heavily on milk production for their businesses. Truck drivers, veterinarians and processing plants are feeling the negative impacts as Ohio’s once-extensive network of dairies further consolidate.

For the consumer, low milk prices are a benefit. For farmers, however, the sluggish commodity prices for milk mean they must make tough choices about their futures. Farmers who wish to continue operating must find ways to remain economically viable in an industry forcing many families out of a job they love so dearly.

As farmers look for new alternatives amid industry turmoil, one recourse coming back into vogue is raising cows on pasture. It’s a method that was widely used in the past by American dairies before land prices skyrocketed and commercial feed became more affordable.

Rotate, Graze, Repeat The pastures at Sweet Grass Dairy in Fredericktown are singing as you walk through them. The biodiversity is extraordinary. Every step through the lush forage triggers the flush of grasshoppers, while pollinators of all types flutter, buzz and zip from flower to flower. Meadow-loving birds accompany the faint insect drone with their own songs to create a wildlife symphony.

This is not your typical dairy farm.

This 140-acre organic farm nestled in the Knox County countryside about an hour north of Columbus is a permaculture marvel incorporating the very best in regenerative and sustainability principles.

Although small dairies are most susceptible to closing, Sweet Grass Dairy owners Jacob and Elizabeth Coleman are utilizing techniques developed in New Zealand to ensure the farm remains profitable and sustainable. New Zealand has a world-renowned grass-growing culture, where farmers manage land with the specific goal of producing grass. New Zealand’s cool, balmy climate prevents the growing of large amounts of traditional feed rations such as corn, soybeans and wheat. However, that weather is ideal for growing nutri-

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ent-dense grass. Farmers in New Zealand produce milk, beef and lamb on a mostly grass-based diet.

A key element of a grass-based dairy is a concept known as rotational grazing. This method involves segmenting a large pasture into smaller paddocks. For dairy cattle, which are docile and mild-tempered by nature, a single strand of electric fence is all that is needed to keep them inside a paddock. A farmer then rotates the livestock from paddock to paddock. At Sweet Grass Dairy, they move the cows two to five times a day.

This ensures that the cows are constantly grazing on the fresh, calorie-dense forage. At the same time it gives the grass in the other paddocks a chance to rest and regenerate. Simultaneously, cows are producing nutrient-rich manure that is dropped along the way. This manure ensures optimal pasture fertility.

Additionally, movement by the cows guarantees that manure is naturally spread across a wide area. Pastures grazed in this manner are healthier and grow back stronger, capable of producing even more food, which in turn yields greater milking production.

Pastures are not a monoculture of a single variety of grass. At Sweet Grass Dairy, the grazing paddocks are a buffet of plant varieties. Red and white clover, dandelions and various grasses such as fescue make up the cows’ grazing options. Cows do not mindlessly graze across a grassy meadow. They are extremely tactical in what they like to eat. Without regular rotation, the cows would overgraze what they like in a pasture, leaving the rest. Over time, both the pastures and the cows would suffer as the pastures lost their biodiversity and the cows were left with fewer options.

Through intensive rotational grazing and careful management of grazing practices, pastures regenerate stronger, healthier and more capable of producing delicious dairy and meat products. This system of management gives farmers greater freedom to make decisions best suited for the land and alleviate costly feed bills as cows get their calories from grass instead of mixed feed rations.

Jacob Coleman credits early adopters to this type of production: “We were influenced a lot by early pioneers of grass based-agriculture like Joel Salatin and try to incorporate those principles in our operation.”

In 2013, the couple started the farm and have been constantly improving the land ever since. This hard-working husband and wife and their five children are dedicated to the land and forging their own path to sustainability. “No two farming operations are alike” he said, and “we use elements of other ideologies, modified to fit the needs for our farm.”

Choosing to go organic is more than just selecting a production method to raise food for consumers. It is a rigid operating procedure that is as much a legal definition as it is a farming practice. Farmers are left with few options to control sickness, parasites and weeds on their farms. They must be creative and flexible as issues arise.

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Direct from Farm to Table When they first started milking their herd of 30 dairy cows, the Colemans marketed their organic milk through Horizon Organic. Producing milk and marketing dairy products are two totally different disciplines. Often farmers opt to sell their products wholesale to a company, which in turn sells the products to consumers at retail prices. The farmer assumes the risks of production and the retailer assumes the job of marketing the products to consumers. While this system is very practical and efficient, it prevents the farmer from realizing the maximum return on investment.

As their dairy operation began to gain momentum, the Colemans took a gigantic leap and decided to take even more control of their farming operation by marketing their products directly to consumers. This entrepreneurial spirit essentially cuts out the middleman and allows for the Colemans to have a more personal relationship with their customers.

Today, they market more than 80% of their products directly from the idyllic little farm store located on the farm. In true country fashion, the store is run on an honor system and has a regular clientele that visits the farm throughout the year. “Our customers are committed to buying meat and dairy products raised this way,” Jacob Coleman said. “They believe in what we are doing.“ The store allows the Colemans to supply their loyal customers with organic products and gives them a chance to see first-hand how the animals on the farm are raised.

Jacob and Elizabeth have also diversified their farming operation beyond milk and dairy products. They currently offer customers pastured poultry, free-range eggs, and pork products.

This allows those who prioritize pastured protein and dairy products to get everything they need with one stop at the farm.

Their customers are committed to the meat, cheese, and milk they produce and this creates a steady demand that continuously supports the farm.

Jacob and Elizabeth believe they have developed a farm that is able to withstand outside market pressures and remain viable despite circumstances impacting the dairy industry. However, beyond the financial independence, they are dedicated to how they choose to raise animals for meat and dairy products. Sweet Grass Dairy is truly a farm that inspires enthusiasm and optimism for Ohio’s dairy future.

If you would like to learn more about Sweet Grass Dairy, https://sweetgrassdairy.grazecart.com.

If you can’t visit the farm store, you can order meat, cheese and other dairy products online for later pickup at one of several Columbus locations. Find details about this process on the website.

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Ohio agriculture

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Split This Firewood Chopping 101

By Steven N. Berk, Photography by Devin Trout

W

hen you can get renewable energy and the perks of a seasonal fire on a chilly night, going green has never felt so cozy! As fall settles in and winter looms behind the sunset of shorter days, it’s time to don your favorite flannel and chop some wood.

Fires are an entrancing part of colder weather and—with a little guidance and elbow grease—you can create your own wood supply from sturdy branch to smoky ash. Of course, even if you don’t have a fireplace, the seasonal outdoor fire with family and friends is a perfect way to enjoy nature.

It is easy to get started. Identify any fallen, diseased or dead trees on your property that would be candidates for fuel. Not all wood is created equal, so identifying which varieties are suitable for burning is important.

For those with access to timber, burning wood is a great way to spend an evening under the stars or cuddled up on the couch. Wood is a renewable resource, and carefully culling trees from woodlots improves overall forest health and vigor. It can also reduce energy bills and reduce dependence on fossil fuels.

Why split wood?

1. Allows it to dry faster 2. Increases surface area to allow for more thorough burning 3. Makes stacking and handling wood easier and more efficient—round logs tend to roll easily 4. Everyone looks cool holding an axe

Tools of the trade:

1. Safety glasses 2. Splitting maul or axe, available at your local hardware store 3. Protective leg coverings and steel-toe boots—the majority of wood-splitting accidents occur in the foot and lower leg area.

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DIY

Splitting wood 101

Determine the size of your fireplace and how long the split wood should be.

If you have one, an old stump makes a great chopping block. It provides a solid surface for the wood and reduces strain on the lower back from bending over.

Avoid splitting wood on the ground. It poses a safety hazard to yourself, and constantly hitting your blade against the ground will dull it more quickly.

Stand log on stump and with a crisp stroke bring your blade directly down on top of the wood.

A successful swing will result in two halves. Wood can be further split into smaller pieces, if desired.

Common Types of Wood to Burn Red maple Sugar maple Silver maple Swamp oak White oak Red oak Hickory Beech Apple Ash

Tips for success, inside & out Inside: Before burning any wood, have your chimney inspected by a professional.

Avoid burning pine varieties inside—these softwoods can build up dangerous amounts of creosote inside a chimney or wood stove and create a fire hazard.

Make sure your fire extinguisher is nearby and in good working order.

Ensure there is nothing touching or close to the fireplace that could start a blaze.

NEVER LEAVE A FIRE UNATTENDED. Outside: Check with local regulations pertaining to open air fires. Visit https://www.epa.state.oh.us/ to learn more.

Burning pine varieties outdoors is acceptable.

Never attempt to start a fire with gasoline. Use a specifically designed lighter fluid.

Questions about the commercial agricultural use value of your property?

Call 614.525.HOME and I’ll help whatever way I can

franklincountyauditor.com .com

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Our ADVERTISERS Be sure to support our advertisers, as they share our commitment to local food and enable this award-winning magazine!

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Weiland’s Market weilandsmarket.com 614.267.9878 3600 Indianola Ave., Columbus, Ohio Find on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter

Gardening Supplies & Services Oakland Nurseries oaklandnursery.com Locations in Columbus, Dublin, Delaware and New Albany Find on Facebook and Instagram Solid Waste Authority of Central Ohio (SWACO) swaco.org 614.871.5100 4239 London Groveport Rd., Grove City, Ohio 43213 Find on Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn Go Zero gozero.org 614.746.4287 Find on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Pinterest and LinkedIn

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Explore Licking County explorelc.org 740.345.8224 5 S. 3rd St., Newark, Ohio Find on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter

Katalina’s Café katalinascafe.com 1105 Pennsylvania Ave., Columbus, Ohio 614.294.2233 Open seven days 8am–3pm Find on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Twitter

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Leavitt Group-Midwest -- Smith, Molino, Sichko leavitt.com 4200 Hoover Rd Grove City, Ohio 614.871.9707 Find on Facebook, LinkedIn and Twitter

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Pathways Financial Credit Union pathwayscu.com 614.416.7588 121 Emmaus Rd., Marysville, Ohio Find on Facebook, LinkedIn and Twitter

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Education Franklin County Auditor ranklincountyauditor.com 614.525.4663 373 S. High St., 21st Floor, Columbus, Ohio Find on Facebook and Twitter Franklin County Farm Bureau ofbf.org/counties/franklin/ 614.876.1274 Find us on Facebook Initiative for Food and AgriCultural Transformation (InFACT) discovery.osu.edu/focus-areas/infact/ 614.292.5881 Ohio Ecological Food and Farm Association (OEFFA) oeffa.org 614.421.2022 ext. 202 Find on Facebook and Twitter

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10/1/2019 12:39:29 PM

Holy Family Soup Kitchen

HERO

“Give us this day our daily bread …” – The Lord’s Prayer

By Gary Kiefer, Photography by Devin Trout

I

t’s 10:30 am on a Tuesday, the halls of Holy Family Soup Kitchen are full of people and Dana Krull is searching the pantry for mustard, because hot dogs are part of the menu this day.

As the new director of a program that feeds a free meal to as many as 300 homeless and hungry people a day, Krull believes that no detail is too small to deserve his attention.

“We want our guests to know that they matter, that they aren’t numbers,” he said, “because they are just a number in so many places that they go for services.”

For more than 40 years, the soup kitchen run by Holy Family Catholic Church has been an oasis for those in need of a hot meal. Every weekday they fill the basement of the old brick building that once was the Holy Family School in the Franklinton neighborhood on the west side of Columbus.

There’s also a food pantry that provides bags of groceries to 25 or more families a day, with most of that food coming from the Mid-Ohio Food Bank at a minimal cost.

Krull, 39, is a former Army chaplain who grew up on the west side and worked at Holy Family for about 18 months before taking over as director in the fall.

But the heroes of this operation, he says, are the 125 regular volunteers who keep everything running day to day. Most are retirees who could be spending their leisure time in other ways.

Some have volunteered for decades to help others less fortunate.

“They are seeking to serve just out of a simple love for fellow human beings,” he said.

The generosity of thousands of donors over the years also makes it possible for the soup kitchen to continue its work.

“Daily bread is the thing we’re striving to serve here. The goal is to help bridge the gap for those who just need to get by,” Krull said.

“And the need is not going to go away.”

To learn more visit hfsk.org

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