Edible Madison 52 • Spring 2023

SPRING 2023 • ISSUE 52

sprout

"In the spring, at the end of the day, you should smell like dirt." ― MARGARET ATWOOD

6 STARTERS

REGIONAL SEED SOURCING by Dylan Bruce

SEED-TO-TABLE by Hannah Wente

BACKYARD FORAGING by Qwantese Dourese Winters

13 LIVING WELL THIS SPRING by Cricket Redman

Sponsored Content

14 NOURISH

Land of (Milk and) Honey by Laura Poe Mathes

18 FOODWAYS

Regional Vegetable Farms Make Changes for an Uncertain Climate by Dylan Bruce

27 COOK AT HOME

Breakfast Sammies by Lauren Rudersdorf

34 BACK OF HOUSE

Jardin: Sensational Seasonality by Rose Brookins

44 EAT & DRINK GUIDE

Sponsored Content

46 SUPPORTERS

48 RECIPE INDEX

49 LAST BITE

Above: Springtime means it's time to eat local greens: parsley, spinach, dill, thyme, greenhouse collards and bibb lettuce, and early dandelions.

Photo by Sunny Frantz.

Cover: Brunch sandwiches begin with great bread, like this beautiful loaf from Bloom Bake Shop. Photo by Sunny Frantz.

Good food starts in the ground.

So as we greet spring, we’ve got growth and gardens on the brain. There’s nothing more delightful than scoping out seed catalogs, envisioning your garden-to-be, or that first whiff of damp, thawing ground as the temperatures begin to creep up. Now is the time to let your imagination run wild—before the realities of space, time and weather can limit the garden of your daydreams. This issue is filled with inspiration and resources to help you garden creatively and look at your yard (or patio, balcony or indoor planters) with fresh eyes.

Planting seeds is a hopeful act. You can’t help but smile when a seedling cautiously pokes its first bright green leaf out of the soil. Tending a garden from spring through fall is to surrender to and dance with the rhythms of life and the cycles of nature. But because of climate change, sometimes these rhythms feel a little off-beat, and the cycles seem completely out of whack. In his article on p. 18, Dylan Bruce explores how this new reality is impacting the vegetable farms of our region and how farmers are adjusting their methods in response. Personally, the urgency of the climate crisis is hitting me harder than ever before, especially as the mother of a tiny human. We all have a part to play in healing humanity’s relationship with the Earth. It’s going to take all kinds of solutions, innovations and paradigm shifts to get to a place of actual sustainability, but I have to believe we can and will get there.

If you’re looking for some hearty fare to start the day off right, as usual, Lauren Rudersdorf has you covered with an array of breakfast sandwich recipes gathered from our chef community on p. 27. Let’s grab a cup of coffee (see p. 49 for a particularly beautiful pour) and get dreaming!

We hope you soak up all the magic that springtime has to offer.

Let’s Dig In!

Lauren Langtim Managing Editor

Be sure to check out ediblemadison.com for exclusive online content, like Local Upstarts, a new quarterly digital column that celebrates local entrepreneurs who have participated in the Wisconsin Alumni Research Foundation's UpStart program, a free entrepreneurship program for women and people of color.

This spring, we profile Keena Atkinson, founder of R’oujie Wellness.

ROSE BROOKINS

Rose has found herself in the enviable position of getting paid to combine three of her favorite things: writing, local food, and local industry. She hails from Madison, lives in Mount Horeb, and loves getting to bring you stories about the entrepreneurs who make this area so very special.

DYLAN BRUCE

Dylan was raised on a vegetable farm in southwest Wisconsin. After working his way through the food system and across the country, he now runs Circadian Organics with his partner. Dylan also co-founded SeedLinked, an app for farmers and gardeners working to create a more transparent and resilient seed system.

SUNNY FRANTZ

Sunny is an editorial and commercial photographer with a studio on the west side of Madison where she lives with her husband, their two kids and a tiny dog. She specializes in food and product photography and loves the opportunity it gives her to connect with the many wonderful businesses and entrepreneurs in Madison.

LAURA POE MATHES

Laura is a private practice dietitian specializing in digestive health and traditional foods diets. She is also a new mama, fermentation and foraging enthusiast and lazy canoer. Originally from Missouri, Laura currently lives in the Driftless region of Wisconsin and now understands why cheese curds are a thing.

NICOLE PEASLEE

Nicole is a graphic designer, photographer and artist from Madison. She enjoys being a cat mom, hiking adventures with her fiancé, listening to podcasts, watercolor painting, and spending time with friends and family. She is also a co-founder of New Fashioned Sobriety, an alcohol-free community based in Madison which hosts monthly meetups and events.

ERIN PRESLEY

Erin manages the herb, woodland and pond gardens at Olbrich Botanical Gardens. Her interests include native woodland plantings, sedges, American ginseng, low-maintenance and drought-tolerant gardening styles, recycling coarse woody debris, and all things related to herbs, vegetables and cooking. Never shy when it comes to sharing the joy of gardening, she has appeared on the PBS series Let’s Grow Stuff and Wisconsin Public Radio’s Garden Talk and is a contributor to Fine Gardening magazine.

CRICKET REDMAN

Cricket is an avid gardener, artist and designer and messy cook. By day she runs Cricket Design Works and by night she is the creative director and partner of Edible Madison. In 1993, she moved to Madison for grad school at UW-Madison and fell in love with the snowy winters, Driftless landscape and her now-husband and business partner Phil.

LAUREN RUDERSDORF

Lauren is the voice behind the local food blog The Leek & The Carrot where she shares recipes and stories about life, food and farming. Before that, she owned Raleigh’s Hillside Farm, an organic CSA vegetable farm, with her husband Kyle. She advocates for local farms, local food and cooking with the seasons. When she’s not writing or testing recipes in her sunny kitchen, she’s probably on a trail somewhere with her daughter Lillyan.

MANAGING EDITOR

Lauren Langtim

PUBLISHERS

Christy McKenzie

Cricket Redman

BUSINESS DIRECTOR

Christy McKenzie

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Cricket Redman

SALES DIRECTOR

Lauren Rudersdorf

LAYOUT & PRODUCTION

Cricket Redman

Nicole Peaslee

COPY EDITOR

Andrea Debbink

CULINARY ADVISOR

Christy McKenzie

SOCIAL & DIGITAL PRODUCER

Lauren Rudersdorf

ADVERTISING & SPONSORSHIPS

Lauren Rudersdorf laurenr@ediblemadison.com

DRIFTLESS REGIONAL SALES MANAGER

Kristen Wagner

kristen@ediblemadison.com

CONTACT US

Edible Madison 4313 Somerset Lane Madison, WI 53711 hello@ediblemadison.com

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Edible Madison is published quarterly by Forager Publishing, LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission by the publisher. ©2023

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.

VISIT US ONLINE AT EDIBLE MADISON.COM

statewide Farm Fresh Atlas project and supported farm-to-school and farm-

newsletter

dener who teaches Wisconsinites all about how to grow veggies and tend to

LEARN AND GROW

Explore more than 50 classes for all ages including:

MARCH 23, 7 - 8:30 PM

The Invincible Garden Ladies

A virtual lecture with Abra Lee

APRIL 12, 5:30 - 7 PM

Spring into GardeningGet Ready for the Season

A Garden walk with Samara Eisner and Erin Presley, Olbrich Botanical Gardens

APRIL 14, 10:15 - 11:15 AM

Story and Stroll Over in the Jungle Little Sprouts, Ages 2-5

APRIL 27, 7 - 8:30 PM

Attracting Bees and Beneficial Insects with Native Plants

A virtual lecture with Heather Holm

MAY 25, 7 - 8:30 PM

Resilient in Nature at Olbrich

Botanical Gardens

A virtual lecture with Olbrich’s horticulture staff

Don’t miss our

ONLINE PERENNIAL PLANT SALE

Featuring a selection of tried-and-true perennial varieties from Walters Gardens and Midwest Groundcovers. Olbrich’s horticulturists carefully select unique plants that do best in this climate. Find the newest, hardiest, most disease-resistant cultivars on the market.

FEBRUARY THROUGH MAY WHILE SUPPLIES LAST. Shop at Register at olbrich.org

3330 ATWOOD AVE, MADISON

Regional Seed Sourcing

There is a renaissance of small, independent companies focused on the heirloom varieties and needs of gardens in the Upper Midwest. Here are some favorites that are farm-based, meaning they grow many, if not most, of the seeds they offer:

Nature and Nurture Seeds

Ann Arbor, MI

Excellent Midwest and Wisconsin heirloom collections.

North Circle Seeds

Vergas, MN

Unique varieties selected for short northern growing seasons.

Ann Arbor Seed Company

Ann Arbor, MI

Part of the no-till, majority women-owned Green Things Farm Collective.

Cultivating the Commons

Amory, WI

Varieties selected in Wisconsin for productivity, storage, disease-resistance and flavor.

Prairie Road Organic Seeds

Fullerton, ND

Good for our short season, but mostly selected for drier climates.

The following companies are not expressly focused on our region, but are important to our seed system:

Buffalo Seed Company

Farm-based company outside Kansas City with unique offerings. Their bioregionally adapted seeds are better suited to longer, drier growing seasons.

Seed Savers Exchange

Famed heirloom seed bank with an international focus based in Decorah, IA. Some seed is produced regionally, but they mostly buy from other regions.

Jung Seeds

One of the last surviving historical Wisconsin seed companies with an extensive catalog, and the only one on this list that carries hybrids. They mostly buy seed from other regions but are based in Randolph, WI.

There are other great regional seed companies we didn’t have room for—who is your favorite? Tell us about them and tag @ediblemadison and we’ll give them a shout-out!

Photo by Nicole Peaslee

STARTERS by Dylan Bruce

What are the Chefs Planting?

“I’m really excited that we are growing lemons and pomegranates in conjunction with raising langoustine and shrimp in a hydro/aqua system at the Knight Farm that’s located 500 meters from our kitchen. Also I cannot wait for a black light yellow oyster mushroom midnight scavenger hunt with coworkers. It’s amazing that they glow under UV light, so it’s gonna be a little magical.”

—Ben Hunter Chef at Seven Acre Dairy

“I’ll be gardening with my dad this year and we’re going to reap the rewards of all the fresh abundance by teaming up together! I’m looking forward to planting a huge crop of cabbages, which will be processed into sauerkraut, San Marzano tomatoes to process into sauces and can for the colder months, and a whole bunch of medicinal herbs along with the classic culinary varieties as well.”

—Katie Ankowicz Meal Kit Sous Chef at Pasture and Plenty

“I'm getting really excited for my backyard raised beds. Our family can't wait to have little manageable beds in our backyard where we can grow all the daily essentials (herbs, greens, alliums, peppers, and maybe a cucumber plant or two) to share with our daughter. We'll still be using a corner of our farm to grow (an obscene number of) tomatoes because there's just no replacement for homegrown.”

—Lauren Rudersdorf

Recipe Developer, The Leek and the Carrot “I'm looking forward to picking Holy Basil and other herbs from the garden to make bitters for the bar and to add to a fresh touch to our dishes.”

—Ryan Huber Owner of Turnkey

Seed-to-Table: Q&A with Jack Kloppenburg

With modern-day patenting came the ability to turn seeds, once belonging to all of humankind, into individual property. Jack Kloppenburg and plant breeders around the world are fighting to reclaim the seed and restore it to its natural state: free.

Hannah Wente: Why was the Open Source Seed Initiative (OSSI) founded?

Jack Kloppenburg: It is a response to a key change in plant breeding over the last 50 years. Decisions about what our crops look and taste like are being made by fewer people in fewer companies. Four companies own the intellectual properties of most plant varieties, corn and soybean, even lettuces—and people don’t know it. Fewer companies translates to fewer varieties on the market.

As we enter the new world of climate change, crops are going to need to be responsive to new rainfall, diseases and pests. We’ll need more breeders and diverse varieties.

Inspired by the free and open source software movement, OSSI was created to free the seed—breeders pledge that the genes in at least some seeds can never be locked away from use by intellectual property rights. The OSSI logo means this is a variety from freed seed, that it’s

available for anyone to use further. You can plant the seeds in your garden. We should be able to find these varieties at farmers’ markets.

HW: How did you get involved with seeds?

JK: I was working for UW–Madison and thought plant breeding only occurred at businesses and land-grant universities.

I discovered there is this community of plant breeders. Today, we have 48 freelance breeders and over 500 varieties under the OSSI pledge. These are sustainable varieties, bred locally for local conditions. There’s a good deal of interest in farm-to-table, but what about seed-totable? It’s a portal into the larger issues.

HW: What can individuals do to support this work?

JK: People think of themselves as foodies and go to farmers’ markets. They may notice different varieties of tomatoes and peppers, but they may not know how many different flavors, sizes, colors and textures are available. We should all dig deeper. The most important thing you can do is vote. We talk about patents and intellectual property rights and regulations—those are up to local, state and federal governments.

Join an organization that brings your voice together with other people and works to make the changes people can vote for.

Know your plant breeder. Buy opensource seeds and foods, like tomatoes from the Dwarf Tomato Project. Visit www.dwarftomatoproject.net.

Jack Kloppenburg is a professor emeritus in Community and Environmental Sociology at the UW–Madison. After serving in the Peace Corps in Botswana, his empathy for the plight of farmers and appreciation of locally produced food led to a lifelong study of plant breeding and seed production and promotion of local, sustainable food systems. He helped found both REAP Food Group and the Open Source Seed Initiative.

Kloppenburg: "I grow Candystick Dessert delicata by Carol Deppe and Nate France of Fertile Valley Seeds in Portland. It is the sweetest delicata there is and very productive. One thing you’ve got to do with delicata is let them ripen—wait until they’re brown. Then it tastes like dates."

Photos courtesy of Jack Kloppenburg

STARTERS by Hannah Wente

Did you know? Four companies control over 60% of global seed sales: Bayer (Monsanto), Corteva (Dow/DuPont), Chemchina (Syngenta) and BASF (formerly Monsanto). (Philip Howard, Michigan State University, 2018)

OSSI’s deployment of open-source seeds in the U.S. is facilitated by the fact that the U.S. places virtually no restrictions on breeding and subsequent sale of seed. In contrast, breeders and seed sellers in the European Union labor under the extremely restrictive regulations of the Common Catalog. These regulations forbid selling most seed that is not listed in the Catalog, and the requirements for listing are such that farmers, gardeners and small seed companies find it difficult to breed and sell their own varieties.

ABOUT PLANT BREEDERS:

Participatory Plant Breeding: The active collaboration between researchers, farmers and other actors throughout the breeding process. (Cambridge University Press, 2021)

Freelance Breeder: A grower who's not connected to any particular company or university. Just like home cooks trying out new recipes, freelance breeders breed plants for different characteristics for themselves. Basically, they have little to no financial incentive—they're seeking to

Backyard Foraging

by Qwantese Dourese Winters

Backyards are often seen as places for recreation only after the Wisconsin winter has finally melted away. Unbeknownst to many of us, underneath our running feet are edible plants we can use for cooking and to support our health. Backyards are full, fruitful landscapes that have a variety of plants all enclosed in an accessible and safe place. Perfect for foraging! Here are three edible plants you can forage that will show you what your yard has to offer.

Dandelion

Dandelions get their claim to fame for their whiteskirted seeds that speckle the air during spring and for being every gardener's foe. You can find their yellow petals and tender leaves all over your yard without much effort. Despite the fact that it’s so unpopular, dandelion is actually a great plant. It supports a healthy digestive system and improves the immune system. The roots, leaves and petals of dandelions can be used in different ways. Make a tea from the petals, a warming apple cider vinegar with the roots, or a yummy soup or salad with the leaves.

Dandelion

Broadleaf Plantain

Broadleaf Plantain

This is not the long banana-shaped fruit eaten alongside fragrant rice. Broadleaf plantain is a different plant species. It has shiny, short leaves that are broad just as their name suggests. Plantain leaves and seeds are edible and can be used to soothe bug bites, small cuts, scrapes, rashes and even eczema. This plant is known as the “Band-Aid plant” and is perfect for making skin salves. There are many ways to derive benefits from broadleaf plantain. My favorite way to use this plant is to dry its leaves, then infuse them into almond oil which I use as a healing body oil. It works great for keeping my skin calm on buggy days in the garden.

White Clover

I have so many memories as a child playing outside and seeing white clover, small white flowers embedded in the grass all around me. What I didn’t know then is that white clover is nutritious. And not only does this member of the legume family offer many nutrients, it has many uses too. It can treat colds, coughs, fevers, infections—the possibilities are vast. While the plant’s name is white clover, its color can range from white all the way to pink. You can find it

in low-growing patches in your yard. The petals have a slight sweetness that tastes great on top of a fresh salad or as a garnish for iced tea. Who knew that backyards could not only be the perfect place for weekend barbecues and late-night bonfires, but also a place to get in touch with nature’s bounty? As we begin tending our gardens and dreaming of all the fresh veggies, greens and fruits soon to come, and begin to ponder what this season means to us, let us not forget the backyard, our subtle nourisher. It’s a place where we can find medicine in the vibrant petals of the dandelion and white clover, healing in the waxy leaves of the broadleaf plantain, or just simply a good meal.

Safety Alert!

There are so many nutritious and beneficial plants waiting for us in our yards, but be aware that sometimes plants look alike. To avoid accidentally poisoning yourself or someone else, it is important to make sure you have properly identified the plant. Do your research, and consider using a plant identification app to help you. You also should only forage from places where you can be certain that no pesticides or other toxins have been used.

White Clover

EXPLORE

SEED SAVERS EXCHANGE

Display Gardens | Trails | Visitors Center Visitors Center open March-October Decorah, Iowa · 563.382.6104 seedsavers.org/visit

JOIN US FOR OUR 2023 EVENTS

Virtual Apple Grafting Workshop

Heirloom Plant Sale

Virtual Conference

Virtual Seed School

For more information and a complete list of events: SeedSavers.org/events

Discrimination against marginalized groups in agriculture negatively affects all Americans by limiting the opportunities for farmers, workers, and consumers.

AFT is raising up diverse voices in agriculture, because we believe diversity contributes to a more resilient agricultural system, a stronger economy, and a more equitable society.

At American Farmland Trust, we believe agriculture is strengthened through diversity.

LIVING WELL THIS SPRING

BY CRICKET REDMAN

Until recently, the majority of the western world has relied on reactive health practices to treat ailments. But we’re learning that there are many proactive approaches to wellness that are easy to integrate into our everyday routines for long-lasting benefits. Here are a few local businesses that provide healthy options for living well.

SPA

DAY EVERY DAY

Tucked away in the southeast corner of Garver Feed Mill is a sanctuary of light and life. Kosa Spa is an ayurvedic day spa founded by Shilpa Sankaran. Ayurveda is an ancient proactive approach to healthcare that is now being validated by modern scientific research. The spa o ers consultations, bodywork, facials and skincare services in an oasis of calm. Snacks, ayurvedic beverages and meals are available to guests. All products and services are adapted for the seasons and are curated to your body type. Sankaran and her team have created a line of products for hair, face, and body care, so that you can bring the spa experience into your home on a daily basis. kosaspa.com

PLANT-BASED CUISINE

A TASTE OF WISDOM

SUPPLEMENTS FOR SELF-CARE

This independent, worker-managed cooperative whose mission is to promote better health for the community has two locations: Community Pharmacy on Fair Oaks Avenue in Madison, and Community Wellness Shop on University Avenue in Middleton. They o er an impressive range of quality natural medicines, flower essences, homeopathic formulations, herbs and other supplements and wellness products. Their experienced sta is available to share their knowledge with you to help you find the best solutions for your needs.

communitypharmacy.coop

Chef Lauren Montalbano is a creative force who brings inventive, nutrient dense, plant-based meals to all occasions. She sources her high-quality ingredients from a rich network of local farmers and makers to create sustainable dishes with a minimized carbon footprint. Whether you're in need of pre-made, plant-based and gluten-free meals to get you through a hectic workweek or are for an artfully catered event plant-based, Chef Montalbano and her team are there to make eating well feel easy. Plus, her o erings are so delicious that no one will be whining

Community Pharmacy (Fair Oaks Ave in Madison) and Community Wellness Shop (University Ave in Middleton) are two locations of an independent, worker-managed cooperative whose mission is to promote better health for the community. They o er an impressive range of quality natural medicines, flower essences, homeopathic formulations, herbs and other wellness supplements and healthcare products. Their experienced sta is available to share their knowledge with customers to help them find the best

If you want to know about the long tradition of drinking tea for your health, then Telsaan Tea is a must-stop along Main Street in Mount Horeb. The shop o ers more than 150 varieties of teas from across the globe including green, oolong, black and white teas plus yerba mate. These teas are packed with antioxidants and other components reported to be anti-inflammatory and supportive of your body. Spring teas are harvested from the first flush of growth on the tea plant and are particularly high in both antioxidants and ca eine—owner Erin Ulrich suggests Silver Needle, a beautiful white tea. Telsaan also has a wide variety of herbal blends that you can use to soothe digestion or calm down for a good night’s sleep.

telsaan.com

A YOGA STUDIO FOR EVERY BODY

Perennial Yoga o ers a range of yoga classes at their two locations: one in Madison’s Garver Feed Mill, the other overlooking a prairie in Fitchburg. Each holds its own beautiful character. Owner Megan Grace has created a community of practice that ranges from slow grounded yoga nidra (a type of non-sleeping deep rest) and restorative classes to fiery heated flow practices that build strength and stamina. Perennial also o ers meditation sessions, regular sound baths, book groups and other opportunities to discover your true nature.

perennial-yoga.com

PLANTS THAT HEAL

Clare Kritter is an herbalist and founder of Hedge Meadow Herbs. She provides consultations to help people learn more about how plants can be used to leverage the natural intelligence of the body. Through her work with her clients, Kritter became inspired to develop a line of delicious herbal teas that are gentle enough to be used daily. In spring 2023, Kritter will open a brick-and-mortar store and education center on Broadhead Street in Mazomanie. The store will o er teas, tinctures, bulk herbs, skincare products, art, books, gifts and more. Workshops and classes will provide opportunities to learn more about the power of plants.

hedgemeadowherbs.com

Land of Honey (milk and)

While April showers bring May flowers, those May flowers bring us something just as wonderful: honeybees! And those bees, filled up on sweet nectar, bring us honey. We are blessed in southwest Wisconsin to have multiple natural sweeteners available to us, with many sources of maple syrup, sorghum and honey from local producers. Honey in particular seems to be quite magical both in how it is produced but also its health benefits—I like to think of it as liquid gold.

The full scoop on how honey is made is a bit too in-depth to cover in this article but here are the basics (though you should totally research this sometime, as it is fascinating!): Bees bring nectar back to their hive where enzymes in their saliva break it down into simple sugars. The moisture evaporates out of this liquid sugar in the honeycomb to create a thick syrup concentrate—the honey.

all of the honey in the hive to sell and feed the bees sugar syrup to meet their needs for warmth and energy.

When the honey is ready, beekeepers pull out the frames from the hives that contain the honeycomb, scraping off a wax cap and placing the comb in a centrifuge to remove the honey. This is then strained and bottled; some beekeepers heat and filter the honey further, but raw, unfiltered honey is the gold standard, as it contains more enzymes and many find it has better flavor. You can inquire about honey-making practices with local apiarists before buying their honey if you want to ensure you are buying the most ethical, nutritious honey possible.

If stored properly–in glass jars or food-grade buckets that are sealed to avoid moisture or air getting in–honey has no expiration date and essentially is good forever; its antibacterial properties, low pH and lack of water content make it very shelf stable. With raw, unprocessed honey, crystallization can occur, where the liquid honey starts to harden into crystals. This is totally normal and does not mean the honey has spoiled—it can simply be warmed slightly and the crystals will melt, giving you liquid honey once more.

You may have seen different types of honey, such as clover or wildflower, but these do not actually have added flavors. Rather, the honey is named for the flowers the bees pollinated, and is infused with flavor compounds from the source of the nectar. Clover is the most well-known, but other common types include wildflower, tupelo, buckwheat, acacia, manuka (especially known for its medicinal value and healing properties) and even

Honey can be certified organic when the bees are not exposed to chemicals or fed supplemental sugar and only pollinate organically grown flowers and plants, which would need to grow within their 2-mile average flight radius. This is essentially impossible

in much of the U.S. because of the widespread use of pesticides, including in our region, so most certified organic honey is imported from other countries, such as Brazil or New Zealand. It is important to source honey locally when possible, and good quality, unprocessed honey can be found at farmers' markets, co-op grocery stores and health food stores, and directly from local beekeepers, including many in the Amish community.

Though honey is a source of sugar, I truly consider it a health food. Natural honey contains antioxidants like phenols and flavonols, quercetin, prebiotics, amino acids, enzymes, B vitamins, zinc and trace amounts of other vitamins and minerals. Due to its composition of fructose and glucose, many find it does not affect blood sugar in the same way some other sugar- and carbohydrate-rich foods do. Some studies even associate intake of honey with improvements in blood sugar, cholesterol and inflammatory markers. Honey is known for its medicinal properties and has been used in “folk” remedies for thousands of years all over the world, including treatments for coughs, respiratory infections, allergies, gastrointestinal disorders, h.pylori (the bacteria associated with causing ulcers) and for immune support. Honey’s anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties not only can be used as a medicinal food, but also externally, as it has been used for millennia as a topical salve for burns and wound healing, which is truly amazing.

As a food, honey can be used as a sweetener like sugar or maple syrup in cooking and baking, noting that you may have to modify recipes if swapping honey for granulated sugar as it is liquid. Honey can be used in dressings and marinades, drizzled on pancakes instead of syrup, stirred into a hot cup of tea, or used to sweeten yogurt, oatmeal and much more. For medical purposes honey can be taken by the spoonful, mixed into water or teas, or can be used to make herbal honey infusions, switchel (a natural electrolyte drink), and oxymels, a mixture of herbs, honey and vinegars—including the famous fire cider!

Since we know how important pollinators such as bees and their honey are for us as a local food source, it is crucial that we protect them. Bees pollinate so many of the fruits and vegetables that we eat, and even that our meat animals eat, making them and other pollinators an essential part of the local food cycle. Unfortunately, honeybee populations (and wild bees, as well) are decreasing due to pesticide use and farming practices that decrease food for these pollinators. By supporting organic agricultural practices that do not use pesticides that kill bees, you are ensuring that we have bees and honey for generations to come. You can support the local honey industry by purchasing honey from local beekeepers, but also by planting wildflowers that give bees food as well. You may have heard “no farmers, no food,” but this is also true: no bees, no food—so be sure to do your part in supporting local honeybees and beekeepers by getting plenty of delicious, nutritious local honey.

Note: Honey of any kind should be avoided by infants under 1 year old. Diabetics and some with bee allergies may need to avoid honey or check with a healthcare provider before using it as food or medicine.

Nettle & Elderflower Oxymel

Oxymels are a traditional way to use honey medicinally, mixing honey and raw vinegar, and infusing them with herbs to make potent, natural remedies. The combination of nettles and elderflowers, paired with local honey is a folk remedy for allergies to try this spring allergy season and support your immune system—plus, it tastes wonderful, too! You can take a swig as needed or stir into a bit of sparkling water, warm water or tea to make a medicinal beverage.

Ingredients

4 tablespoons dried nettles, chopped

4 tablespoons dried elderflowers

1 cup local, raw honey

1 cup raw, unfiltered apple cider vinegar

Directions

1. Place the dried herbs in a pint-size glass jar.

2. Cover the herbs with both the honey and vinegar.

3. Seal the jar with a plastic, nonreactive lid and shake well.

4. Let the mixture sit at room temperature for two weeks, shaking often to infuse.

5. Strain out the herbs when ready to use, pressing gently to get out as much oxymel as possible. Discard the herbs.

6. Store in the fridge or pantry where it will keep for several months.

To source your herbs, I like Mountain Rose Herbs, which can be purchased in bulk online, or you can check your local co-op for dried herbs as well. If you are knowledgeable about wild edibles, both nettles and elderflowers can be foraged in the spring; refer to wild edible guides to ensure safe and ethical harvesting of wild foods.

Photo by Sunny Frantz

Doing Food Right

Regional Vegetable Farms Make Changes for AN UNCERTAIN CLIMATE

What will Wisconsin’s climate look like in 20 or 30 years? Climate change is uncertain by definition, but one thing that is certain is that regional farms will continue to feed our communities.

For our region, climate change can mean massive flooding and severe drought within the same season, which makes vegetable farming extremely challenging.

FOODWAYS by Dylan Bruce

Climate change is no longer an abstract concept; even nonfarmers are noticing changes in our local climate. Dry weather in July, snow before Thanksgiving, or having to bundle up for Halloween used to be the norm. Now our summers have 15-20% more precipitation, and fall weather is 2-5°F warmer than it was 60 years ago. When your livelihood depends on the weather, as it does for our region’s vibrant vegetable farms, the stakes are high.

Wisconsin is Getting Warmer and Wetter

Although the future of climate change is still unpredictable (especially in the short-term), there is some consensus emerging among climatologists. In another 60 years the weather in southern Wisconsin is predicted to be closer to the current weather of southern Indiana or northeastern Kansas: hotter and wetter. We’re already in the warmest period modern civilization has faced. The global average temperature has risen by nearly 2°F in the last 120 years, and the seven hottest years on record occurred in the last decade.

5-20% more precipitation in the summer

In the Midwest, one of the key influences on extreme weather events is the jet stream, a powerful air current that normally keeps cold Arctic air separate from warmer southern air. As the differences in temperature between the Arctic and the equator grow smaller, the jet stream weakens, allowing it to swing up and down more significantly over the

northern U.S. So, while winters are generally becoming warmer, we’re also seeing more polar vortexes that bring bitter cold. Another prominent effect can be seen with extreme rainfall events, increasingly common as the air warms and is able to hold more moisture.

“We're already seeing more frequent extreme weather events, including heavy rainfalls that leave fields flooded and either directly damage crops or keep farmers out of fields at critical times for field preparation, planting or harvest,” said Rue Genger, the UW-Madison scientist behind the Climate Resilient Organic Vegetable Production collaborative. One of the group’s members, Rufus Haucke of Keewaydin Farms in Viola, reiterated the issue: “The increased frequency of hail, or heavy rain and high winds has kept me up at night.”

Regional Producers Adapt to Our New Climate Reality

Our area has an incredible richness of vegetable farms, but extreme weather events are challenging them to adapt. Fortunately, as Dr.

Genger said, “Farmers are already innovating in response to climate change.” Some growers, like Haucke, are adapting their production methods by reducing tillage.

sion to shut down their well-loved vegetable CSA and fully transition to a perennial fruit farm, mainly producing high-quality, certified organic apples. “The ground in the fruit plantings is protected by mulch and sod,” Chris said, “which makes it much less susceptible to soil erosion during the intense rain events which are expected to become more frequent.”

Typically, vegetable production is very tillage intensive, which can reduce soil quality and lead to excessive erosion, nutrient loss and general degradation of the soil. Haucke has transitioned to a notill method of production to lower the risk of erosion, but noted that he actually prefers the smaller scale of this method despite the challenges of figuring out a new production system. “I have lots of experiments to run and ways I want to evolve my own system, but I just love the style,” he said.

Other farms have made the difficult decision to shift away from annual vegetable production entirely. At Two Onion Farm in Belmont, Chris McGuire and his wife Juli made the difficult deci-

Changing Climates, Changing Production, Changing Markets

Part of the challenge of changing production systems is that it changes the markets that growers can access. Two Onion Farm primarily marketed their vegetables through a CSA. Now, although they sell some of their apples directly to customers through a fruit CSA, they have had to focus on wholesale markets. Critically, they’ve had to find markets for the blemished fruit—which was not as important while farming vegetables—including “selling some of the fruit to processors and having some fruit processed into applesauce and apple butter which we sell ourselves.”

“We're already seeing more frequent extreme weather events, including heavy rainfalls that leave fields flooded and either directly damage crops or keep farmers out of fields at critical times for field preparation, planting or harvest.”

2-5 ˚ warmer weather in the fall

At Keewaydin Farms, scaling down to enable a reducedtillage production system has also meant giving up some markets entirely. “I had a number of good customers in the Twin Cities,” Haucke recalled, “but I dropped that market completely so I lost all the customers I had. Failure can be a tough pill to swallow but once I came out of it I was at a scale that was enjoyable.”

Haucke also pointed out that climate change is a double-edged sword for Wisconsin producers. “We are at a bit of a disadvantage in Wisconsin when it comes to the length of our growing season, so as things warm there is perhaps a bit of an advantage to being able to get crops going outside sooner and have crops later in the season. I feel as if we have gained about a month of growing weather since I first started 18 years ago.” With just 3 to 4 months without frost for most Wisconsin growers, adding a month of adequate growing weather is huge.

Yet while the warmer weather might seem to be a boon for some farmers, it can be a headache for others. Dr. Genger added, “Higher summer temperatures are a risk both to crops and to farm workers. But winters are warming fastest, and that means more insect pests surviving through the winter and impacting crops.”

As McGuire notes, “Any changes to climate are especially worrisome when we are invested in a perennial, long-term crop…it's difficult to adapt quickly to changing climate with changes in varieties, crop mix or growing methods.” What might be the right move for climate resilience now could present challenges later.

No Matter What the Future Brings, Resilience is Key

No matter what tactics farmers are using to deal with changing climates, there is consensus that decentralizing and diversifying food production is key to building resilience. As Dr. Genger said, “Rebuilding local and regional infrastructure is key. We need to support farmers in diversifying food production including perennial production systems. But we also need to invest in food storage, processing and distribution at community scales. There's so much potential to revitalize local economies at the same time as increasing the resilience of our food system.”

“Farmers are already innovating in response to climate change.”

Top: Bethanee Wright examines crops on her farm, Winterfell Acres, where she uses regenerative farming practices.

Middle: A recently flooded kale field at PrairiErth Farm in Illinois. Bottom: Monocultures grown using traditional agriculture practices are particularly susceptible to flooding and contribute to soil erosion.

Top photo courtesy of REAP's Farm Fresh Atlas. Middle photo courtesy of PrairiErth Farm.

Locally sourced and pasture raised meat and vegetables!

MIGRANTSMADISON.COM

2601 W BELTLINE HWY, SUITE #106, MADISON, WI

In southern Wisconsin we’re lucky to have dedicated researchers and innovative growers tackling the problem head-on. Next time you choose your CSA or find a moment to chat with a favorite farmer at a market, consider asking them how they are feeling about and reacting to climate change. While it might be an abstract question for many of us, figuring out how to adapt to climate change is a poignant and pressing issue for farmers. Adapting for a resilient food system will be up to us as consumers as well as the farmers themselves. It’s important to vote with our dollar and support farmers that are using climate-smart approaches. Supporting those farms during the good seasons means that when times are tough we can still count on local food.

“I am an optimistic person even when it comes to climate change,” Haucke told me. While reducing tillage is an excellent adaptation strategy, making those farms more resilient when flooding occurs, it is also a mitigation strategy— helping sequester more carbon in the soil. Agriculture has been a major contributor to greenhouse gas emissions, but as producers seek more sustainable methods it can also be a part of the solution. “I personally spend more time thinking about ways to work within the reality of this changing planet. It seems to me if all we do is think of doom and gloom then we become paralyzed with emotion and lose hope,” Haucke said. “Better to face the situation and come up with solutions… I feel like it's our free pass to shake off past agricultural practices in favor of something new and hopefully better.”

Agriculture has been a major contributor to greenhouse gas emissions, but producers are seeking more sustainable methods.

Top: Shawn Kuhn and Tommy Stauffer of Vitruvian Farms in one of their high tunnels, which they use to farm year-round. Middle: Salad turnips being harvested. Bottom: Grass-fed cattle at Gwenyn Hill Farm. Rotational grazing is a more climate-friendly way to raise livestock versus CAFOs (Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations), which make up the vast majority of meat production in the U.S.

Top photo courtesy of Vitruvian Farms. Bottom photo courtesy of Gwenyn Hill Farm.

JOIN A CSA

Food Grown for You

Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) is a way to buy local food directly from a farmer near you. Join a farm early in the season by purchasing a “share” of that farm’s harvest in advance of the growing season.

And CSA is about more than just food. In addition to regularly receiving a delicious box of farm-fresh food all season long, the CSA farmer-member relationship allows you to learn the story behind your food, who grows it, and how. And by signing up in advance, your farmer is better able to plan for the season ahead.

A FairShare Endorsed farm promises to:

• Be certified organic or in transition to organic certification;

• Grow and produce the majority of the products they offer in their shares on their own farm; and

• Demonstrate a high level of customer service to its members year after year.

Along with farm-fresh food, CSA members often also receive:

• News from the farm, including notes about what’s in each box, cooking tips, and recipes.

• Opportunities to visit the farm and attend farm events.

• Payment plans or financial support to accommodate households on a tight budget.

• The knowledge that your farmer uses sustainable and organic farming practices that limit environmental impact.

FIND A FARM

STEP 1. STEP 2. STEP 3.

Go to: csacoalition.org/farm-search

• Pickup location

• Share Type

• Season

• Share Size

Choose the CSA share that is right for you using the Online Farm Search Tool Search FairShare Endorsed farms using the criteria that matters most to you: Explore your results, choose your farm, and get ready for delicious farm-fresh veggies!

FARM SPOTLIGHTS

Crossroads Community Farm

Cassie Wyss & Michael Noltner

Location: Cross Plains, WI

crossroadscommunityfarm.com

608-798-0219

@crossroadscommunityfarm

Established 2005

Crossroads Community Farm grows and delivers customizable organic vegetable shares so every meal tastes fresh.

Harmony Valley Farm

Richard de Wilde, Andrea Yoder, & Rafael Morales Peralta

Location: Viroqua, WI harmonyvalleyfarm.com

608-483-2143, ext 2

@harmonyvalleyfarm

Established 1984

Offering a long delivery season from May to December along with 30 years of experience growing for CSA families.

Lovefood Farm

David & Abby Bachhuber

Location: Stoughton, WI lovefoodfarm.com

608-217-5387

@lovefoodfarm

Established 2015

Lovefood Farm is located on 30 acres of beautiful rolling land in the town of Pleasant Springs, about 25 minutes east of Madison. We grow 5 acres of vegetables and herbs that are devoted to our CSA as well as sales to local farmers markets, restaurants and grocery stores.

Small Family Farm

Jillian & Adam Varney

Location: La Farge, WI

smallfamilycsa.com

608-625-4178

@smallfamilycsafarm

Established 2006

We offer weekly and biweekly veggie shares as well as coffee, egg, and apple shares. We also offer maple syrup.

Squashington Farm

Sarah Leong & Patrick Hager

Location: Mount Horeb, WI

squashingtonfarm.com

(920) 422-1042

@squashingtonfarm

Established 2016

100-member CSA in Mount Horeb offering pre-packed and market-style shares. On farm pick ups and Madison drop sites.

Tipi Produce

Beth Kazmar & Steve Pincus

Location: Evansville, WI tipiproduce.com/csa

608-882-6196

@tipiproducecsa

Established 1976

We are famous for our melons, carrots and much more. As experienced farmers, we provide high-quality produce over a 24-week season

Two Good Farms

Tim Zander & Becky Breda

Location: Rio, WI badgerorganics.farm

920-948-8216

@two_good_farms_csa

Established 1994

We offer market shares at four Madison area markets, where you can choose the items you want, in the quantities you want. Choose from herbs, flowers, vegetable plants, and produce. We look forward to seeing you.

Two Onion Farm

Chris & Juli McGuire

Location: Belmont, WI

twoonionfarm.com

608-762-5335

@TwoOnionFarm

Established 2003

We are the area’s only apple CSA, delivering flavorful and unique organic apples in autumn.

Nestled on the banks of the Sugar River in Paoli, Wisconsin, Seven Acre Dairy Company is a lovingly restored historic dairy factory reimagined as a destination for dairy lovers, modern travelers, and discerning diners. DINE

Breakfast Sammies

If you want to start your day right, a breakfast sandwich will get you there. Piled high with greens, eggs, cheese, a delectable spread and an in-season vegetable or two, these four sandwiches will make your spring mornings a whole lot brighter.

Not into eggs? Make these sandwiches plant-based by substituting a tofu scramble for the eggs. We’ve got more plant-based tips and a recipe for the tofu scramble in the online version of the article.

ediblemadison.com/stories/breakfast-sammies

Photo by Sunny Frantz

Corn Cake Breakfast Sandwich with Fried Collard Greens

Eggs and greens cooked in rendered bacon fat is a simple way to take the flavor of everything to another level. Yusuf pairs those delicious sandwich ingredients with nutty Gruyère and homemade corn cakes. Originating with Indigenous communities, corn cakes are also known as johnnycakes.

Serves 4

Prep time: 5 minutes

Cook time: 30 minutes

INGREDIENTS

For the Corn Cakes:

½ cup cornmeal

½ cup all-purpose flour

1¼ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

2 large eggs

⅓ cup milk

2 tablespoons water

3 tablespoons rendered bacon fat

2 tablespoons butter

For the Sandwich:

8 slices Nueske's bacon

3 tablespoons rendered bacon fat

1 bunch collard greens or 8 oz of your favorite seasonal greens, stems removed, cut into a chiffonade

Salt

4 eggs

4 thin slices Gruyère

Hot sauce (optional)

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

2. Place the bacon on a foil-covered sheet pan and bake in the oven until the bacon is slightly crisp, 12-15 minutes. Remove from the oven, drain the bacon on towels and chop or crumble, reserving the rendered fat.

3. In a large bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, flour, baking powder and salt. Stir in the eggs, milk and water, until just mixed. Do not overmix, some lumps are ok.

4. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat, add 1½ tablespoons rendered bacon fat and 1 tablespoon butter. Drop the corn cake batter onto the hot pan using a ¼ cup scoop; work in batches to make 8 corn cakes, adding more bacon grease and butter to the pan between rounds. Fry until cooked through and golden brown, approximately 2 minutes per side. Set in the warm oven to hold.

5. Add one tablespoon rendered bacon fat to your large skillet and heat over medium high heat. Add the greens and sauté gently until wilted. Season lightly with salt and set aside.

6. In the same skillet, add two tablespoons of the rendered bacon fat. Crack the eggs into the pan and cook over medium high heat until the whites are set, about 3 minutes. Flip the eggs, turn off the heat, and place a slice of cheese on top of each egg. Cover the pan, and let rest until the eggs are set and the cheese has started to melt, about two minutes.

7. Assemble the sandwiches by dividing the collard greens onto four corn cakes. Top each with one egg and cheese followed by a half slice of bacon. Add some hot sauce if you like a kick, and top with another corn cake.

Herby Egg Sandwich on Brioche

There is nothing a couple handfuls (or nearly a cup) of fresh herbs doesn’t transform, especially as we await more flavors, textures and varieties to emerge in the spring. This simple egg frittata portioned into individual sandwiches makes feeding four a breeze and boasts big flavor.

Serves 4

Prep time: 5 minutes

Cook time: 15 minutes

INGREDIENTS

8 large eggs

¼ cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup fresh dill, finely chopped

¼ cup fresh chives, finely chopped

½ tablespoon butter

3 tablespoons mayo

1 teaspoon apricot preserves

½ teaspoon hot sauce

1 ounce microgreens

4 ciabatta or brioche rolls, toasted

7 ounces fresh chevre

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, heavy cream, salt and pepper. Add most of the dill and chives, reserving about a teaspoon of each for the mayo mixture.

3. In a 10-inch ovenproof skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Coat the pan with the butter and pour in the egg mixture. Continue cooking the egg mixture over medium heat until the bottom is set, about 5 minutes, lifting the edges up so the uncooked eggs flow underneath. Place the skillet in the oven and cook until the top is set, about 5 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the mayo, apricot preserves, hot sauce, and reserved dill and chives. Divide the mayo mixture between the top halves of the toasted rolls.

5. Spread the chevre on the bottom halves of the rolls. Add a quarter of the cooked egg on top followed by a pile of microgreens. Assemble each sandwich by putting together the two halves of the roll.

Recipe by Lauren Rudersdorf of The Leek and the Carrot

Recipe by Yusuf Bin-Rella of TradeRoots Culinary Collective

Corn cake breakfast sandwich with fried collard greens (top) and herby egg sandwich on brioche.

Photos by Sunny Frantz

Recipe by Mark Pavlovich of Bloom Bake Shop

Bacon, Egg & Cheese Sourdough Sandwich with Overwintered Spinach

While early spring in Wisconsin can bring great optimism for the growing season ahead, there’s no denying that the prime-time bounty remains months away. Luckily, there are a few hidden gems lurking in the permafrost often overlooked by the casual culinarian. A pile of wilted, overwintered spinach brightened with last year’s stored garlic (or this year’s first green garlic of the season) brings a touch of beautiful freshness to this hefty breakfast sandwich featuring crushed red pepper eggs, bacon, cheese and a spicy horseradish mayo.

Serves 1

Prep time: 5 minutes

Cook time: 25 minutes

INGREDIENTS

Unsalted butter

2 slices sourdough

2 slices thick-cut bacon

2 teaspoons sunflower oil

1 cup fresh, overwintered spinach

2 cloves garlic (or green garlic), sliced

Kosher salt

2 large eggs

1 tablespoon half & half

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper

2 slices smoked Gouda

For the Horseradish Mayo:

2 tablespoons mayo

2 teaspoons peeled and grated horseradish

¼ teaspoon lemon zest

Pinch of salt

DIRECTIONS

1. Heat a griddle or large cast-iron skillet to medium-low heat. Generously butter the sourdough slices and place them in the preheated pan. Toast the bread on each side, about 4 minutes total, adding more butter, as needed after you flip. Remove the toast and set aside.

2. Using the same pan, cook the bacon over medium heat to your desired level of doneness, about 2-4 minutes per side. Set aside until ready to use. Discard the bacon grease but don’t wipe out the pan.

3. Add the sunflower oil, spinach and garlic to the same pan. Cook the spinach over medium heat until wilted, adding a pinch of salt as it cooks down. Set aside.

4. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, half & half, crushed red pepper and salt.

5. Heat a small nonstick pan over medium-high heat, add a small dab of butter and cook the egg mixture, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon or plastic spatula. As the eggs thicken and cook, turn off the heat and stir until set.

6. In a small bowl, stir together the horseradish mayo ingredients.

7. Smear the sourdough toast liberally with the horseradish mayo. Next add the eggs, spinach, cooked bacon and sliced Gouda. Place the assembled sandwich in your skillet and cover until the cheese is melted and the ingredients have cooked together.

Photo by Sunny Frantz

Soft Scrambled Eggs, Asparagus & Wild Ramp Cream Cheese Toast

No one knows seasonal breakfast quite like longtime Capitol Square staple Marigold Kitchen. Spring delicacies like asparagus and ramps shine beautifully on this open-face breakfast sammie.

Serves 4

Prep time: 5 minutes

Cook time: 40 minutes

Photo by Sunny Frantz

INGREDIENTS

Kosher salt

2 bunches ramps or green onions (bulbs, greens or a combination), roots trimmed

1 bunch asparagus, woody ends trimmed

¼ cup water

1 tablespoon olive oil

¼ black pepper, plus more to taste

8 ounces cream cheese, softened

3 tablespoons sour cream

½ teaspoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon butter

8 large eggs

4 teaspoons water

4 slices seeded thick-cut bread, toasted or lightly griddled with olive oil

2 tablespoons finely shredded Parmesan

1 teaspoon fresh lemon zest

DIRECTIONS

1. Bring a large stockpot of salted water to boil over high heat. Meanwhile, fill a large bowl with ice water and place it nearby.

2. Once the water is boiling, blanch the ramps for 30 seconds. Then drain and submerge the ramps in ice water until they’re cool to the touch. Set them on a towel to drain and then finely chop. Set aside.

3. Heat a large skillet over high heat. Add the asparagus, water, olive oil, ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Cover and boil for 2 minutes. Remove the lid and sauté the asparagus until it reaches desired tenderness, about 2-4 minutes. Remove the asparagus from the pan and cut it on the bias into 1½-inch pieces and set aside. Wipe out the skillet.

4. In a mixing bowl, whip the cream cheese until smooth. Add the sour cream, lemon juice, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Continue mixing until the ingredients are well incorporated, scraping down the sides of the bowl as you go. Fold in the ramps.

5. Melt the butter in your large skillet over high heat. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and water. Add the eggs to the pan and stir gently three times. Add ¼ cup of the ramp cream cheese mixture and reduce the heat to low. Fold the eggs into themselves until lightly set and fluffy. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper.

6. Smear the remaining ramp cream cheese mixture across the pieces of toast. Transfer the warm eggs to the toast and arrange the asparagus spears on top. Garnish with Parmesan, lemon zest, and more salt and pepper.

Recipe by Kristy Heine of Marigold Kitchen

640 W. Washington Ave Open 11AM-9PM Daily bandit-tacos.com

Thoughtful tacos, coffee and cocktails located on Madison’s most historic train platform.

PHOTO: ERIKA WHITSON

by Rose Brookins

Jardin:

Sensational Seasonality

In the heart of Madison’s East Washington corridor lies a culinary gem known as Robinia Courtyard. Originally created in 2015, the Courtyard is now home to three concept restaurants centered around a magical outdoor dining oasis. Come along with us to visit Jardin as we explore their globally-inspired, locallysourced, 100% plant-based menu.

The response to the food at Jardin has been “amazing, way beyond all expectations,” says co-owner Jon Reske. For Reske, who has been vegan for eighteen years, to see a restaurant where upscale, completely plant-based cuisine is not only accepted but embraced by folks “from all walks of life, all types of eaters,” has been “overwhelming.” Reske's commitment to plant-based living stems from his passion for sustainability. “Twenty years ago, to announce that you were vegan was often met with outright hostility. I found myself having to bone up on the defenses of the vegan diet.” That is something he’s grateful for now, because taking the time to study the positive environmental impacts of plant-based eating made it seem like “a no-brainer. The amount of resources allocated to livestock agriculture are astounding. As this world gets smaller and the repercussions of decisions made on one side affect the other much more loudly and quickly than before, it’s very apparent that we need to make every move in the right direction.”

For Reske and Robinia Courtyard co-owner Armando Magaña and Executive Chef Juan Umaña, Jardin feels like a step in that right direction. “Armando is the backbone of this place,” Reske says. “He is very passionate about everything we do at Robinia Courtyard, [and when] Juan reached out to us we loved what he had to say, what he had to offer,” so much so that they actually pushed back their 2022 reopening to give him time to take the helm, add his final touches to the menu and put his team in place.

Together, these folks are creating a space for community to gather, crafting meals that delight and deeply satisfy both vegans and non-vegans alike, and transforming notions of what is possible with local, plant-based cuisine—one eater at a time.

Top and bottom left and top right photos by Nicole Peaslee. Bottom right photo courtesy of Jardin.

Juan Umaña

Clockwise from upper left: Chef Umaña brings an excitement and curiosity to his work at Jardin, from putting the finishing touch on a signature dish to conferring with his fellow chefs about their ever-evolving seasonal menu.

“What’s really driving me right now going into spring and summer is the seasonality and building on existing connections with our farmers. I’m really looking forward to showcasing more of that locality in our menu, to start experimenting with a lot more diversity.”

A summertime showstopper: butterhead lettuce, roast peaches and strawberries, marigolds, dill, all tossed with in-house balsamic. A masterpiece in showcasing seasonality, this salad highlights the chef’s love of local fruits and flora.

Spring also ushers in the start of foraging season, and looking ahead Umaña is excited to feature morels and other spring mushrooms, ramps, watercress and other wild-growing seasonal delights.

IN SPRING GREEN!

If So, We've Got the Job For You!

Work with fellow fun-loving and passionate people at the Frank Lloyd Wright Visitor Center at Riverview Terrace in Spring Green

Available Positions:

Kitchen Lead

Front of House

Back of House

Includes cross-training & optional housing on the property for an enriching experience of a lifetime!

- Seasonal Positions Begin in April

- Daily Operations May 1 - Oct 31

- Flexible Schedule Preferred

- Bonus & Incentive Pay Available

“I try to focus as much as I can on ingredients that are in season. I like to challenge myself and showcase technique but also ingredients that you can find at the farmers' market or co-op.”

-Chef

tend to change from one prep cycle to the next as vegetables come in and out of season. A lot of thought goes into substituting ingredients, changing or adding spices to go with a new vegetable or mushroom, and working with the interplay of those dynamics.”

Opposite page, top left: A seasonal specialty from last summer showcasing local mushrooms, vegetables, and even edible flowers.

Opposite page, top right: Jon Reske, co-owner of Jardin

Opposite page, bottom: The bar at Jardin overlooking Robinia Courtyard provides a lovely spot to sit and enjoy a beverage.

Top left: A stack of roasted hen-of-the-woods finishes off the Door County cherry mole featuring a handmade tortilla from Tortilleria Zepeda.

Bottom left: James Troia (left) and Umaña (right) compare recipe notes. “We make all these recipes from scratch,” Umaña says, so things

“Everybody comes in gushing, and that energy alone is impossible to describe. We’re living in this bubble of harmony with the guests, [a relationship that] we hope not to take for granted anytime soon. I think all of it’s going to come together this summer, the courtyard is always a magical place to enjoy a meal.”

-Jon Reske, Jardin co-owner

Photos by Nicole Peaslee

Top left photo courtesy of Jardin. Top right photo by Nicole Peaslee. Bottom photo by Kat Wegrzyniak.

-Chef Juan Umaña

Top left: James makes the sauce for the Door County cherry mole. Bottom left: The “lobster” in this lobster casarecce is a mushroom, served with Alimentari casarecce pasta, pulled lion’s mane mushrooms, herbed sun-dried tomatoes in a white wine cream sauce with blistered sage. Photos by Nicole Peaslee.

“I’m excited to be here, pushing boundaries, changing the misconception that plant-based means bland or simple.”

Eat & Drink Guide

Unique country roadhouse serving locally-grown beef and other local products. Visit our facebook page for Wood-fired Oven Pizza Nights and other events. Worth the drive!

A small-batch cider company in the Driftless Region that pairs a farm-to-table menu with farm-to-table ciders. Every bite and every sip supports the bountiful Driftless Region community.

An award-winning, destination cafe serving fromscratch bakery items, stellar espresso, breakfast and lunch seven days a week from 6:00am to 3:00pm.

A spacious lounge offering cocktails, brunch, local brews, upscale bar fare including vegan and gluten free options), and regular live music inside the historic Garver Feed Mill five days a week.

A fourth-generation, grain-to-glass, family-run bourbon farm offering tours and a tasting room. Enjoy internationally acclaimed, heirloom four-grain bourbons (and soon ryes!) just north of Madison.

A

delicious gluten-free baked

Bringing the flavors of the Southwest to the Midwest with time-honored recipes. Madison’s favorite margarita! Gathering with friends for over thirty-five years.

A restaurant, market, meal kit service, and event space serving a locally-sourced daily menu to folks who are hungry for high-quality, healthy meals, but starved for

Located in the Old Royal Inn, Cafe 43 is a gathering place for friends to enjoy scratch-made breakfast, lunch, pastries, and amazing coffee.

132 S Main St, Lime Ridge BRANDINGIRONRH.COM

119 S 2nd St, Mount Horeb BRIXCIDER.COM

43 High St, Mineral Point CAFE43MP.COM

114 N Main St, Oregon FIREFLYCOFFEEHOUSE.COM

3241 Garver Green, Madison GARVEREVENTS.COM/LOUNGE

7794 Patton Rd, Dane JHENRYANDSONS.COM

beautiful shop offering

goods, excellent coffee, and decadent chocolates, caramels, truffles and more.

time.

729 Glenway St, Madison MADISONCHOCOLATECOMPANY.COM

6712 Frank Lloyd Wright Ave #102, Middleton 100 Cross Country Rd, Verona PASQUALSCANTINA.COM

2433 University Ave, Madison PASTUREANDPLENTY.COM

The downtown destination for great corner tavern food featuring an ever-changing selection of craft beers and a wonderful outdoor patio.

A community-owned grocery and deli featuring local and organic food. Hot bar, salad bar and grab-and-go options available daily. Indoor and outdoor seating.

A charming cafe located in beautiful Stoughton, WI serving espresso, housemade bakery items, breakfast, lunch, and specialty goods.

102 King St, Madison TIPSYCOWMADISON.COM

609 N Main St, Viroqua VIROQUAFOOD.COOP

218 S Forrest St, Stoughton WILDWOOD-CAFE.COM

When you're thinking of going out to explore a new place to eat or meet friends for drinks please consider these generous sponsors.

Want to see more resources?

Check our local guide online: ediblemadison.com/local-guide

Humane Chicken Harvest Workshop

farbretonbakery.com

A one-of-a-kind bakery specializing in handcrafted, all-butter croissant creations available at their storefront as well as the Dane County and Northside farmers’ markets.

1924 Fordem Ave, Madison FARBRETONBAKERY.COM

A cozy, upbeat spot to grab delicious, ethically sourced coffee and other specialty drinks. Thoughtfully developed breakfast and lunch menus highlight local goods.

815 Water Ave, Hillsboro LETSSHINECOFFEE.COM

A historic, lovingly restored dairy factory with a farmto-table restaurant, bar, cafe, and 8-room boutique hotel nestled on the banks of the Sugar River.

6858 Paoli Rd, Belleville SEVENACREDAIRYCO.COM

A renowned historic site that is home to a familyowned Wisconsin winery, distillery, and bistro. Open daily year-round for tours and tastings.

7876 Hwy 188, Prairie du Sac WOLLERSHEIM.COM

Certified Organic Farm

Lovingly Pastured Chickens

Shorten your Food Chain

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GROCERY STORES & FARMERS' MARKETS BRANCH & DAUGHTER branchanddaughter.com

LARK MARKET larkmarket.store

VIROQUA FOOD CO-OP viroquafood.coop

WANDER PROVISIONS wanderprovisions.com

WILLY STREET CO-OP willystreet.coop

EVENTS

WISCONSIN GRILLED CHEESE CHAMPIONSHIP grilledcheesewisconsin.com

RIDGES AND RIVERS BOOK FESTIVAL ridgesandriversbookfestival.org

LIFESTYLE GOOD DAY SHOP gooddayshop.net

SIFT & WINNOW siftandwinnow.com

HOME & GARDEN

LATITUDE REGENERATIVE REAL ESTATE chooselatitude.com/markvoss

MYTHIC FARM mythicfarm.com

SECOND NATURE AT READS CREEK secondnatureatreadscreek.com

SEED SAVERS EXCHANGE seedsavers.org

THOREAU’S GARDEN thoreausgarden.com

VOSS ORGANICS vossorganics.com

HEALTH & WELLNESS

COMMUNITY PHARMACY communitypharmacy.coop

CONSCIOUS PRACTICE conscious-practice.com

HEDGE MEADOW HERBS hedgemeadowherbs.com

KOSA WELLNESS SPA & RETREAT kosaspa.com

LUMINOUS ROSE luminousrosebeauty.com

PERENNIAL YOGA perennial-yoga.com

TELSAAN TEA telsaan.com

VIBRANT VEG thevibrantveg.com

TOURISM

OLBRICH BOTANICAL GARDENS olbrich.org

GREATER RICHLAND TOURISM richlandcentertourism.com

SEVEN ACRE DAIRY sevenacredairyco.com

TALIESIN taliesinpreservation.org

VISIT SHEBOYGAN visitsheboygan.com

FARMS & FOOD GOODS

DOUDLAH FARMS doudlahfarms.com

J. HENRY & SONS jhenryandsons.com

LANDMARK CREAMERY landmarkcreamery.com

MEADOWLARK FARM & COMMUNITY MILL meadowlarkorganics.com

RIEMER FAMILY FARM riemerfamilyfarm.com

SASSY COW CREAMERY sassycowcreamery.com

WINTERFELL ACRES winterfellacres.com

FOOD, AGRICULTURAL & SUSTAINABILITY ORGANIZATIONS

FAIRSHARE CSA COALITION csacoaliton.org

SAVOR THE RIVER VALLEY savortherivervalley.org

FOOD & BEVERAGES

AMERICAN WINE PROJECT americanwineproject.com

BANDIT TACOS & COFFEE bandit-tacos.com

THE COOPERS TAVERN thecooperstavern.com

THE DELICIOUSER thedeliciouser.com

EMMI ROTH CHEESE rothcheese.com

ISLAND ORCHARD CIDER islandorchardcider.com

GIANT JONES giantjones.com

LARK larkjanesville.com

LOMBARDINO’S lombardinos.com

MADISON SOURDOUGH madisonsourdough.com

MIGRANTS migrantsmadison.com

ORIGIN BREADS originbreads.com

PASTURE & PLENTY | P&P MAKESHOP pastureandplenty.com

SALT & TIPPLE instagram.com/salt_and_tipple

SASSY COW CREAMERY sassycowcreamery.com

SEVEN ACRE DAIRY sevenacredairyco.com

STATE LINE DISTILLERY statelinedistillery.com

SUNN CAFE sunncafe.com

WONDERSTATE COFFEE wonderstatecoffee.com

PETS

THE PETINARY CLINIC petinarymadisonwi.com

While cooking up a tasty breakfast at home is a great way to start the day, there's something extra luxurious about going out for breakfast. The fine folks at Bradbury's are serious about their breakfast game—serving up savory and sweet crêpes and housemade scones and muffins. This year, owner Trevor Gruehn and his team are celebrating fifteen years of serving some of the best coffee beverages in Madison.

Photos by Nicole Peaslee

BRADBURY'S by Cricket Redman