Edible Madison 53 • Summer 2023

SUMMER 2023 • ISSUE 53

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"This is the power of gathering: it inspires us, delightfully, to be more hopeful, more joyful, more thoughtful: in a word, more alive." ― ALICE WATERS

6 STARTERS by Hannah Wente

Gathering Places

Creating Community, One Pizza at a Time

Around Town with Local

Chef-Farmer-Bartender-Musicians Where to Go for Food & Music

11 DRINK LOCAL

Table Wine: Uncorked & Unstuffy by Brennan Nardi

16 NOURISH

Respect Your Elderberries by Laura Poe Mathes

20 MAKING SUSTAINABLE DAIRY THE NORM

Sponsored Content

22 FOODWAYS

Kernza: A Promising Wondergrain by Erica Krug

27 BUILDING A STRONGER LOCAL FOOD SYSTEM, 25 YEARS AND COUNTING

Sponsored Content

29 COOK AT HOME

Gotta Love a Grain Bowl by Lauren Rudersdorf

34 BACK OF HOUSE

Above: Kernza grain cleaned and dehulled, ready to be milled. Read more about Kernza, a whole grain perennial, on page 22.

More Than Meats the Eye by Anna Thomas Bates

44 EAT & DRINK GUIDE

Sponsored Content 46

Photo courtesy of Christine Johnson.

Cover: Summer Rye Berry Salad. Photo by Sunny Frantz.

It’s been a privilege to work with the Edible Madison team over the past three years, bringing to life the delicious stories that make our local food community so unique and strong. I’m so grateful for the whole constellation of people who have made this opportunity possible: our publishers, Christy McKenzie and Cricket Redman, our sales team, the writers, photographers, designers, chefs, farmers, local business owners, advertisers, distributors and last (but certainly not least!) our readers.

While I’ve so enjoyed the work and the people it connects me to, lately, I have been feeling like I’ve been spreading myself a little too thin. So I’ve made the bittersweet decision to move over and let someone with fresh new energy for the project take over the managing editor position, and the someone we found is just perfect for the job!

It’s my pleasure to introduce you to Marissa DeGroot. Marissa has a strong professional background in communications, and she is thoroughly enmeshed in our region’s food community as a food writer for local publications and member of the Vitruvian Farms team, co-owned by her husband Tommy Stauffer. We can’t wait to see where she takes the magazine from here. As we’ve worked together on this issue, it’s been crystal clear to me that the future is bright.

Cheers!

Lauren Langtim Former Managing Editor

I broke the cardinal rule of job offers—never accept right away, take a night to sleep on it—but when offered the opportunity to join the Edible Madison team, “yes” couldn’t escape my mouth fast enough.

It has been a serendipitous pleasure joining Edible Madison in time to help produce the summer issue—one which spotlights the many ways our community is nourished through the gathering of good people around good food.

My life has been shaped by gatherings such as these. My whole family would circle around a table for gyoza nights, everyone folding delicate dough around spoonfuls of pork and veggies. Some of my favorite summer afternoons are spent with friends at the farm, eating cherry tomatoes straight off the vine. Most recently, Tommy and I gather around the dinner table, enthralled while watching our daughter discover that cucumbers are her new favorite food.

The individuals, organizations and gatherings featured in this issue of Edible Madison have left me feeling inspired and energized for issues to come. I look forward to using the power of stories to uplift the diversity, ingenuity and resiliency in our local food community.

Managing Editor

Be sure to check out ediblemadison.com for exclusive online content, like Local Upstarts, a quarterly digital column that celebrates local entrepreneurs who have participated in the Wisconsin Alumni Research Foundation's UpStart program, a free entrepreneurship program for women and people of color.

This summer, we profile James Bloodsaw, chef and owner of Just Veggiez

Bottom photo courtesy of Just Veggiez.

ANNA

THOMAS BATES

Anna moved to Wisconsin 21 years ago, and after shopping at the Dane County Farmers’ Market and wandering through the Driftless Area, she hasn’t looked back. Co-owner of Landmark Creamery in Paoli, if she isn’t tasting/selling cheese, you’ll find her writing about food, reading a good book, swimming or hiking with her two boys.

MARISSA DEGROOT

Marissa feels fortunate to be a part of our local food system as the managing editor of Edible Madison as well as working for Vitruvian Farms, her husband Tommy’s organic vegetable and mushroom farm. She loves raising their daughter, Ollie, and team of fur babies on the farm in McFarland, snacking on spring turnips during long evening strolls.

SUNNY FRANTZ

Sunny is an editorial and commercial photographer with a studio on the west side of Madison where she lives with her husband, their two kids and a tiny dog. She specializes in food and product photography and loves the opportunity it gives her to connect with the many wonderful businesses and entrepreneurs in Madison.

ERICA KRUG

Erica is a freelance writer from Madison. In addition to writing and helping to run youth writing summer camps, she also works for Rooted, a local nonprofit, where she supports statewide farm-to-school efforts. Erica loves gardening, swimming in cold lakes and playing Yahtzee.

LAURA POE MATHES

Laura is a private practice dietitian specializing in digestive health and traditional foods diets. She is also a new mama, fermentation and foraging enthusiast and lazy canoer. Originally from Missouri, Laura currently lives in the Driftless region of Wisconsin and now understands why cheese curds are a thing.

BRENNAN NARDI

Brennan is a freelance writer who served as editor of Madison Magazine from 2005-2015. From 2013-2022, Brennan’s family owned Harmony Bar and Grill just down the street from Table Wine.

NICOLE PEASLEE

Nicole is a graphic designer, photographer and artist from Madison. She enjoys being a cat mom, hiking adventures with her fiancé, listening to podcasts, watercolor painting, and spending time with friends and family. She is also a co-founder of New Fashioned Sobriety, an alcohol-free community based in Madison which hosts monthly meetups and events.

LAUREN RUDERSDORF

Lauren is the voice behind the local food blog The Leek & The Carrot where she shares recipes and stories about life, food and farming. Before that, she owned Raleigh’s Hillside Farm, an organic CSA vegetable farm, with her husband Kyle. She advocates for local farms, local food and cooking with the seasons. When she’s not writing or testing recipes in her sunny kitchen, she’s probably on a trail somewhere with her daughter Lillyan.

HANNAH WENTE

Hannah grew up as a 4-H kid on the shores of Lake Michigan. She is a freelance writer and graphic designer based in Madison. In her previous role as communications director for REAP Food Group, she helped launch the new statewide Farm Fresh Atlas project and supported farm-to-school and farm-to-business efforts. When she’s not gardening, cooking or baking, you can find her playing ultimate frisbee or paddling the nearest lake.

MANAGING EDITOR

Marissa DeGroot

PUBLISHERS

Christy McKenzie

Cricket Redman

BUSINESS DIRECTOR

Christy McKenzie

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Cricket Redman

SALES DIRECTOR

Lauren Rudersdorf

LAYOUT & PRODUCTION

Nicole Peaslee

COPY EDITOR

Andrea Debbink

CULINARY ADVISOR

Christy McKenzie

SOCIAL & DIGITAL PRODUCER

Lauren Rudersdorf

ADVERTISING & SPONSORSHIPS

Lauren Rudersdorf laurenr@ediblemadison.com

DRIFTLESS REGIONAL SALES MANAGER

Kristen Wagner kristen@ediblemadison.com

CONTACT US

Edible Madison 4313 Somerset Lane Madison, WI 53711 hello@ediblemadison.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS

Subscriptions are available beginning at $35 annually. Learn more at ediblemadison.com/subscribe .

We want to hear your comments and ideas. To write to the editor, use the mailing address above or email hello@ediblemadison.com .

Edible Madison is published quarterly by Forager Publishing, LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission by the publisher. ©2023

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.

VISIT US ONLINE AT EDIBLE MADISON.COM

Nestled on the banks of the Sugar River in Paoli, Wisconsin, Seven Acre Dairy Company is a lovingly restored historic dairy factory reimagined as a destination for dairy lovers, modern travelers, and discerning diners. DINE

BY HANNAH

Gathering Places

Summer is for gathering, for packing in and savoring as many patio dinners, shows and festivals as you can. The spaces where we feel most alive are the ones that seamlessly weave together music and food while celebrating and supporting our community. Whether it is pizza on the farm or a food truck paired with great tunes, there are events and venues across southern Wisconsin making our summer a feast for the senses.

Photos courtesy of Sittin' Pretty Farm.

Creating Community, One Pizza at a Time

“Steve has done an amazing job breathing life into this event space,” says Smith. “You get that feeling of being on an old farm, but it’s also edgy and cool.”

Last year, a vintage clothing company provided large vintage quilts for people to picnic on. There are also long cafeteria tables with different colored seats.

Steve brings in a variety of acts to Sittin’ Pretty Farm, from well-known artists traveling through the area to local talent.

“We had this high school graduate who [usually] plays guitar from rooftops in Viroqua,” says Smith. “It [Sittin’ Pretty Farm] was his first paying gig and we love to give that opportunity.”

Steve Lawless transformed one farmer’s junkyard into a gathering place for the Viroqua community. He bought the land for Sittin’ Pretty Farm in 2019 and built a barn and other indoor-outdoor spaces throughout the pandemic. The pizza kitchen opened in 2022. A crew of volunteers host a pizza night every Friday from 5 to 8 p.m. with live music.

Each Friday, the proceeds—at least $500—go directly to nonprofit organizations. The nonprofits in turn send a group of volunteers to staff the kitchen.

“It’s a whole circle of goodwill between everybody,” says operations manager

Aja Smith. “It’s a ‘come as you are, use what we have’ energy.”

You won’t find plates or cups here; you can expect mason jars full of on-tap beer and good local food.

“I love how unpretentious this place is—here’s your pizza, rip the box to make plates,” Smith says.

Sittin’ Pretty Farm is all about promoting small, local producers. They get 65 dough balls of sprouted sourdough to use for pizza crust each week from Rhythm Bakery and source vegetables like peppers and tomatoes from local farms and gardens. An area flower farm provides seasonal blooms.

Come for one of the five weekly pizzas; stay for the camaraderie and warmth. Last year, their “pay it forward” pizza special allowed people to buy a pizza and get it delivered to service workers in the emergency room and at police departments. This summer, they hope to offer a home-based version, like Meals on Wheels for people who cannot prepare or buy food.

“It’s a whole family affair,” says Smith. “Kids are running the pizzas out to people. It’s just a welcoming community aspect. We’re out here eating pizza and serving pizza for a good cause. It’s selfsustaining.”

Fridays, May 12 through October 27, 5 p.m. to 8 p.m., sittinprettyfarm.org

Top: A family reunion over pizza. Bottom right: Volunteers raise funds for Living Faith Food Pantry.

Bottom left: The band Aster Alice plays at a fundraiser for Green Burial Alliance.

Around Town with Local Chef-Farmer-Bartender-Musicians Where to Go for Food & Music

SCOTT WILLIAMS

Farmer at Garden To Be, guitarist in Hammock Wilburn

“Name me anything else that brings people together more than these two activities [music and food]!”

Go-to spot: “Tofflers in New Glarus. It’s fun inside when it's cold and rainy, and fantastic outside on their large patio with a stage.”

@hammockwilburn

CED

Musician, painter and veteran bartender at The Robin Room

“Food and music are inseparable. Music is as important (if not more) as the lighting situation, the decor, and the services offered. It is the soundtrack of your evening.”

Go-to spot: “The cool vibe, lovely crowd and red hues of Mickey's Tavern is a favorite spot of mine where I have had bimonthly residency for a decade now.”

@cedricbaetche, cedmusic.com

MATT RABOIN

Co-owner of Brix Cider, guitarist and singer

“Music and food are both creative endeavors. You mix and match flavors, colors and textures with food just like you mix and match melodies, harmonies and rhythm with music. ”

Go-to spot: “Brix Cider of course! I really love the food we make and the way we change the menu for the seasons; I find that there's always something that I want to eat. Meeting so many bands and having the pleasure to hear them all perform has been a highlight of owning Brix Cider.”

1 Sprouting Acres Farm: At this scenic Cambridge farm, pizza pairs perfectly with a serenade by local musicians. Pizza nights are held the first and third Sundays, May through October. sproutingacres.com

2 The Sessions at McPike Park: National acts meet internationally inspired food carts in the heart of the isthmus. Find this season’s schedule at sessionsatmcpike.org. Free.

3 The Sh*tty Barn Sessions: This community-run music venue in Spring Green hosts a revolving line-up of homegrown and national acts along with Enos Farms tacos and Wander Provisions picnics. shittybarnsessions.com. $15-35.

Portraits courtesy of Scott Williams, CED and Matt Raboin.

Photo #1 courtesy of Sprouting Acres Farm.

Photo #3 courtesy of Nath Dresser.

Full Mile Beer Company:

This downtown Sun Prairie locale hosts local and regional Americana, bluegrass and funk acts weekly on Saturdays from 7-10 p.m. fullmilebeercompany.com/events. Free.

5 Nattspil: Stop by any night of the week in June and July for DJ-hosted vibes from 7-11 p.m. or aim for the Sunday Disco Brunch at this intimate small-plate

restaurant just off Madison’s Capitol Square. nattspil.com/djs/dj-schedule. Free.

6 Brix Cider: This local food destination in Mount Horeb hosts live music every Sunday and an open mic night every Thursday. Pair one of their dry ciders with Wisco Gumbo, made with homemade andouille sausage, Seven Seeds Farm chicken and local vegetables. brixcider.com. Free.

7 The Bur Oak: This neighborhood watering hole and venue shares a building with Ahan restaurant and James Beardnominated chef owner Jamie Hoang. theburoakmadison.com. $8-35.

Paoli Hop Garden & Mill Park: Enjoy an outdoor beer garden vibe along the Sugar River with a surprising number of walkable food options—Molina Tacos (10 steps), Paoli Schoolhouse Café (across the street) or Seven Acre Dairy Company (just down the street). thehopgarden.net/ Paoli_Mill#EventsandMusic. Free.

Stoughton Opera House: Acoustic, indie, folk, country, you name it—international legends and Milwaukee-bred bands alike play here. Grab a pre-show dinner and cheese curds at Stoughton staple Wendigo. stoughtonoperahouse.com/events. $12-40. Prices listed are for the music only.

Photo courtesy of Full Mile Beer Company

Bailey's Run

Vineyard & Winery

Bailey’s Run Winery is open 7 days a week. Neapolitan pizzas and live music every weekend! “Where Wine Goes to Have Fun!”

BAILEYSRUNVINEYARD.COM

baileysrunvineyardandwinery

baileysrunvineyard

Brix Cider

Every bite and every sip you take at Brix Cider in Mount Horeb supports the beautiful and bountiful community in which they reside.

BRIXCIDER.COM

brixcider

brixcider

The Cider Farm

Small-batch, family-owned and certified organic orchard growing English and French cider apples in Mineral Point for local cider and apple brandy.

THECIDERFARM.COM

the_cider_farm

theciderfarm

Dancing Goat

Distillery

Located 20 miles east of Madison in Cambridge, Dancing Goat Distillery is open for tours, tastings and a gin academy where guests craft their own bottle of gin.

DANCINGGOAT.COM

dancinggoatdistillery

dancinggoatdistillery

Rude Brew

Kombucha

Small, craft kombucha brewery that utilizes locally grown fruits and herbs to flavor their brews. Now located in the Willy Street neighborhood in Madison!

RUDEBREWKOMBUCHA.COM

rude_brew_kombucha

rudebrewkombucha

Sunshine Brewing Company

Lake Mills brewery offering a wide variety of handcrafted beers, including a range of delicious Belgian-inspired brews and mouth-watering Mexican cuisine that pairs perfectly.

SUNSHINEBREWCO.COM

sunshinebrewco

sunshinebrewco

Local Craft Beverages

You already eat farm to table. Why not imbibe locally too? Try these Wisconsin beverage makers for some of the most creative refreshments around.

TableWine: Uncorked& Unstuffy

It’s difficult to imagine Madison’s Schenk-Atwood neighborhood, an east-side enclave of hip-cool bars, restaurants and retail stores, without a locally owned wine shop. It would have been even more difficult for Molly Moran to imagine a wine shop in the area that wasn’t her own.

“The advice that I had heard a lot was, ‘What would you do if the business of your dreams opened today and it wasn't owned by you? How would you feel about it?’” says Moran. “I thought about that—what if a wine shop went in on Atwood

and it wasn't mine? I'd be so upset that I hadn't done it. So lo and behold, I actually lit the fire under my butt and did it.”

Seven years and a recent relocation later, Moran is so grateful she took that advice—her loyal customers are, too. Table Wine has steadily become an unstuffy, go-to spot for casual wine drinkers and enthusiasts alike. Customers sip leisurely among friends or take part in tastings in the cozy space or, on warm summer afternoons, enjoy the shady outdoor patio that came with the new location.

Photo by Cricket Redman

Just a few blocks from the original store, Table Wine opened its 2301 Atwood Avenue doors last October after Moran and husband Conor purchased the historic, three-story building built in 1900. The top two floors remain as rental units.

The Morans gutted the first floor, previously occupied by Sugar Shack Records, and transformed the quaint-but-cluttered music store into a lovingly restored, wide-open space with floor-to-ceiling windows in front, a large and inviting retail room in back, an impressive selection of curated beer and spirits (including nonalcoholic varieties), locally sourced cheeses, crackers and chocolates, and a bestsellers shelf that rotates weekly.

A self-described “sucker for an old building with charm,” Moran was adamant about preserving the wall that separates the retail room from a multipurpose room she named the txoko—a Basque term for “cozy corner.” When the txoko isn’t being used for classes or private tastings, customers can cozy up by the beautiful bay window overlooking Atwood Avenue and the Capital City Bike Trail across the street.

Wine club members Nikki Javurek and husband Ben Kjorlie were part of a crew of “die-hard fans” who helped move the shop into its new digs last fall. Javurek met Moran at a Wisconsin Book Festival event a few years back (Conor Moran was the festival’s director at the time) and bonded over shared views on books, politics and, of course, wine. When she made her first visit to Table Wine soon after, Javurek noticed an Italian wine, Scaia, on the shelf from a winery she, her mom and her best friend had visited during a trip to Venice.

“Molly said, ‘It’s actually the wine that made me want to start Table Wine,’” recalls Javurek. Moran went on to talk about the meaning of a “table wine”—a great bottle of wine that is also affordable. “Ever since then we’ve been huge fans of Molly and what they’ve built.”

Professionally, Javurek and Moran teamed up for a fundraising event for U.S. Senator Tammy Baldwin, co-hosting young professionals of color and a visit by U.S. Senator Cory Booker. Personally, Javurek and Kjorlie frequently end their bike rides around the lake at Table Wine. The night before the couple’s wedding last spring, they hosted an informal “Friday Night Wine Welcome” for local and outof-town guests. Javurek regularly attends store tastings and enjoys grabbing a glass or two with friends before going out for dinner.

“Creating a community was really as important to me as selling the right wine,” she says. “It's how we train the staff. It's how we talk about wine. It's about not being a gatekeeper and [instead] trying to take this thing that a lot of people think is not for them or too stuffy or whatever, and trying to make it accessible.”

“Two-thirds of Americans buy wine based on wine labels,” says Moran.

“So I just try to make sure that the wine inside is actually good.”

Photo courtesy of Molly Moran

“It’s loyalty,” says Javurek. “If we’re gonna get wine, we’re getting it at Table Wine, and I think it’s because of those intersections with other people and the connections you make while you’re experiencing that.”

From an early age, Moran dreamed of starting her own business. Like most dreams, the path to get there was anything but linear. After graduating from University of Iowa with an English degree, she and Conor moved to Madison, where she cut her teeth at the Madison institution, Steve’s Wine, Beer & Spirits.

“I really liked school,” Moran says. “So wine was a place to be a little nerdy. And there was a purpose for it. It wasn’t just like personal enrichment, which is valid, but there was a reason to do it.”

After Conor graduated from law school at the University of Wisconsin–Madison, the couple moved to Washington, D.C. He would find a job as a lawyer; she would work in restaurants and perhaps become a chef. Instead, Conor pursued his love of books—he’s now the executive director of the Madison Public Library Foundation—and the Morans moved back to Madison to start a family and, fingers crossed, that business Molly had always wanted.

Table Wine at- a - glance

2301 Atwood Avenue, Madison tablewinemadison.com

Year Established: 2016

No. of Employees: 7

Outdoor Seating Capacity: 30

No. of Wine Club Members: 240

Molly’s Spring Favorite: Avinyo Petillant

Tasting Notes: Lemon, minerals, white peach, lightly effervescent.

“It’s perfect for summertime,” says Moran.

After a three-year stint at Epic Systems, where “I got to use my degree and I got to write every day,” she decided it was time to make that dream a reality.

“The cornerstone of what I thought I was going to do differently from every other wine store in town was community,” says Moran.

She credits wine enthusiasts, in particular local meetup groups, for attending classes and tastings in the early years as she worked to grow her fledgling business.

“Creating a community was really as important to me as selling the right wine,” she says. “It's how we train the staff. It's how we talk about wine. It's about not being a gatekeeper and [instead] trying to take this thing that a lot of people think is not for them or too stuffy or whatever, and trying to make it accessible.”

A perfect example of Moran’s commitment to accessibility is her perspective on buying wines by the label.

“Two-thirds of Americans buy wine based on wine labels,” says Moran. “So I just try to make sure that the wine inside is actually good.”

Photo by Cricket Redman

Public events, corporate gatherings, weddings and private celebrations hosted throughout the season open march - december

For current tasting room hours and event information visit bothamvineyards.com

Respect Your Elderberries

While many herbs have strong medicinal properties and accompanying folklore, the elderberry has such power that it is heralded as “Queen of the Herbs” and is known as protector of the garden, often found planted at the edge of gardens across Europe. Long prized for its medicinal properties, there are many myths tied to the elderberry plant, with tales about fairies, witches and elves, and even the Hans Christian Anderson story “The Little Elder Tree Mother,” all associated with this powerful plant. Small but mighty, the elderberry packs a nutritional and medicinal punch, and certainly seems to earn the respect received throughout history.

The elderberry seems to be quite ubiquitous, with several varieties found all over the world, with the most common variety used medicinally being Sambucus nigra. The subspecies canadensis is native to North America and what we will typically find growing wild in our region. The elderberry plant is a medium-sized, woody shrub found across the southwest Wisconsin countryside. In late spring to early summer, the plant blossoms with tiny, white flowers. These delicate and lacy elderflowers emit a beautiful fragrance, and have a sweet, floral flavor. Elderflowers are followed by tiny, dark purple elderberries when they ripen in late summer, hanging in gorgeous, heavy clusters.

While elderberry is quite common in the wild, it can also be cultivated and planted in the garden. If you are looking to forage for elderflowers or elderberries, they can be fairly easy to find in rural areas; the edges of wooded areas, moist areas near rivers and ponds, as well as along roadsides (although I recommend against harvesting from the roadsides to ensure they have not been sprayed with chemicals) are all frequently inhabited by the elderberry plant. The flowers can be harvested once they open and while they are still fresh-looking; they can be used fresh or dried for long-term storage. For the berries, harvest when ripe in mid- to late summer, when they become juicy, round and dark purple. It is generally recommended to avoid varieties with red berries, so only consume those with purple-black berries. Remove as much of the small, fine stems as possible before using, as the stems and leaves are considered toxic to humans; you can use the berries fresh or process through drying or freezing for long-term storage. As with all foraging, always start with proper plant identification by researching the plant thoroughly before harvesting or consuming elderberries. Find good foraging resources, such as the books of Samuel Thayer, an expert in this field. You could also take a wildcrafting course, such as those taught through the Driftless Folk School, or tag along with a friend who knows their plant ID well for more hands-on learning. And of course, always practice responsible, ethical foraging by only taking what you need and not overharvesting.

There seems to be something quite magical about the elderberry.

As is the case with many herbs (and traditional foods and other ancestral practices), research is learning what has already long been known about the elderberry. The medicinal properties of elderberries make them an ideal part of natural health regimens for coughs and colds, flu and fevers. Elderberry extract is commonly found in cold and flu remedies, as it is a potent antiviral and antibacterial herb, and it supports a healthy immune system. There is a large amount of research on its effectiveness against colds, flu, SARS and other viral illnesses, especially respiratory infections, with strong evidence that elderberry extract has the potential to shorten the severity and duration of infections. Besides respiratory illnesses, there is also evidence of effectiveness against other viruses, including shingles and herpes, and reducing fevers. Elderberry is commonly paired with other herbs like echinacea, cinnamon and ginger, which work together to support the body during illness. Elderberry's effectiveness comes, in part, due to the high antioxidant content, including polyphenols, anthocyanins and bioflavonoids. It is also rich in vitamin C along with other vitamins and minerals, adding nutrients to the diet as well. Elderflowers also have medicinal properties, including immune and allergy support. They are diuretic and diaphoretic (induces sweating), making them useful in treating fevers and other conditions, and can support the digestive and nervous system.

Elderberries are astringent, slightly sour and a touch bitter, with a mild sweetness. Recipes, both medicinal and culinary, typically add a sweetener like honey or maple syrup to enhance the flavor and make elderberry concoctions more palatable. Always cook fresh berries before using, as they can cause stomach upset if consumed raw. Dried berries can be used to make tinctures, teas, syrups, oxymels like fire cider and other herbal remedies that extract the medicinal properties of the ber ries. These can also be added to flavor homebrewed kombucha or water kefir, or even as a super-nutrition addition to jams or pie fillings. Fresh elderberries can be juiced and made into tinctures, wine or preserved through canning for later use. Fresh or dried berries can be cooked into oatmeal, homemade gelatin, muffins or other baked goods as well. El derflowers can be used fresh or dried, depending on the recipe, and can be found in oxymels, teas, tinctures, vinegar or honey infusions, and even beer and liqueurs—St. Germain is a popular elderflower liqueur. The flowers have a lovely flavor and make a sweet, floral addition to herbal recipes of all types. If you aren’t the DIY type, there are plenty of local herbalists making beautiful remedies with both elderberries and elderflowers that you could give a try, such as Four Elements out of North Freedom, Wisconsin.

From blossom to berry, the elderberry plant offers so much medic inal potential and is an important part of our local food landscape. Its nutritional power deserves respect and should be strongly considered as part of your herbal medicine cabinet. Make this the year you plant an elder at the edge of your garden, or harvest elderberries in the wild, and see what protection this plant may have to offer you!

3330 ATWOOD AVE, MADISON Plants, sale items, and library books excluded. One

Elderberry Immune Syrup

Yield: 3 cups (Serving size: 1-2 tablespoons for adults)

Prep time: 5 minutes

Cook time: 45 minutes

Make a batch of elderberry syrup at the end of summer with your fresh berry harvest to have on hand for fall’s cold and flu season. Use it anytime you need an immune system boost or you start to feel a little something coming on. The addition of raw honey makes this concoction extra special, as honey has medicinal and nutritional properties of its own, including antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory compounds. You can use dried berries if fresh ones are not available. Simply soak a half cup of dried elderberries in water overnight before using. Feel free to omit the echinacea or any of the other herbs and use this syrup on pancakes, waffles or yogurt—a spoonful of sugar does help the medicine go down, remember!

Ingredients

1 cup fresh or rehydrated elderberries

1 tablespoon fresh ginger root, minced

2 tablespoons dried echinacea root

1–2 cinnamon sticks

1 teaspoon whole cloves

2 cups water

2 cups raw honey or sugar

Other optional add-ins: 1–2 teaspoons of any of the following—orange peel, cardamom pods, star anise, rose hips, elecampane or wild cherry bark (great for coughs!)

Directions

1. Combine the elderberries, ginger, echinacea, cinnamon sticks, cloves and water in a medium saucepan. If using sugar for sweetener, add it in this step. Bring the ingredients to a boil.

2. Reduce the heat, letting the mixture simmer for about 30–45 minutes until reduced by half. Stir frequently, mashing the berries to release more juice as you stir, if using fresh elderberries. This should give you about 1 cup of liquid. The syrup should be a dark purple color when ready.

3. Remove the syrup from the heat and strain out the solids through a fine mesh strainer, letting the juice cool slightly.

4. While still warm, whisk in the honey to combine. If your honey is crystallized, you can heat the mixture slightly to get it well-combined, but be sure not to boil the syrup.

5. Transfer the syrup to a glass storage container and refrigerate until ready to use. This will keep up to 3 months in the fridge.

Photo by Cricket Redman

Making Sustainable Dairy the Norm

By Kaya Freiman on behalf of Roth® Cheese

While many will say it never left, sustainability is back. After years of carryout containers, curbside pickup and going back to “paper or plastic” at the grocery store, many consumers have come out of COVID-19 survival mode with a renewed interest in how companies are working to become more sustainable and help stem the effects of climate change.

According to a sustainability keynote report from food and beverage intelligence platform Datassential, 64% of consumers say it's important to them to make sustainable choices that limit their impact on the environment.

In the Madison area 64% might seem a little low. Thinking globally and acting locally has been the norm for decades. Residents have long purchased shares from CSAs, toted reusable bags around town and dined at restaurants that proudly display a long list of locally sourced products on their menus. These simple acts of sustainability are ingrained in our culture.

The dairy industry might not immediately come to mind when talking about sustainability, but Roth Cheese, out of Monroe, is among a growing number of companies looking to change that.

Working toward more sustainable operations

Emily King is Roth Cheese’s first-ever sustainability manager, a role that was created last year to help advance the specialty cheesemaker’s sustainable operations. King has grown along with the company, starting out in the marketing department.

“We have goals around reducing water, waste and emissions, and we’re working toward achieving net-zero emissions,” says King. “Last year we decreased our water consumption per pound of cheese by 57%. This year we’re getting a baseline of our waste to inform our goal of zero waste to landfill by 2027.”

One popular byproduct of cheese production is whey, a liquid created during the cheesemaking process. The company sells its whey in one of many efforts to reduce waste.

As Roth Cheese’s popularity grows, the company is continually evaluating how to meet growing demand for its products in a sustainable way. For example, King has started to track Scope 3 emissions with help from a vendor that surveys the company’s suppliers and provides analytics to create a Scope 3 baseline.

“Scope 3 encompasses emissions not produced by the company and are not the result of activities from assets owned or controlled by us,” says King. “These emissions are those that we are indirectly responsible for, up and down our value chain. Such as when we buy, use and dispose of products from suppliers.”

Partnering to reduce food waste

In recent years, companies that are on a mission to reduce food waste and deliver products directly to customers’ doors have grown in number and popularity.

During the early days of the COVID-19 pandemic, when flights were canceled at a historic pace, Roth Cheese was left with a surplus of cheese snack trays originally destined to serve to airline travelers.

In an effort to reduce waste and losses, the company partnered with Imperfect Foods—an online grocery delivery service with a mission to reduce food waste—to sell its unused inventory. Since then, the partnership has evolved and, like many other leading food companies, Roth Cheese sells items that are nearing expiration dates, product overruns and bulk cheese. Not long ago, these items could have been sent to the landfill.

“Companies like Imperfect Foods and Misfits Market help drive the conversation around sustainability forward,” says Roth Cheese sales manager Lars Bjorklund. “Partnering with companies that are committed to reducing food waste is one of many ways Roth Cheese is contributing to a more sustainable food ecosystem.”

A Madison native, Bjorklund serves on the sustainability steering team that is helping to shape Roth Cheese’s sustainable future. One challenge is balancing sustainability measures and consumer costs in a time of high inflation.

“We know customers are willing to pay more for specialty cheese, but what about things like 100-percent recyclable packaging and the costs associated with other sustainability initiatives?” Bjorklund says. “During this time of high inflation, consumer goods companies are mindful of costs passed on to consumers.”

“Companies like ours have opportunities to drive sustainable actions with the products we offer,” Bjorklund says. “We’re making changes because it’s simply the right thing to do and that’s what we do as a company.”

Last year we decreased our water consumption per pound of cheese by 57%.

This year we’re getting a baseline of our waste to inform our goal of zero waste to landfill by 2027.

—Emily King, Sustainability

Manager 0% waste

Top and middle photos courtesy of Emmi Roth.

Bottom photo by Nicole Peaslee.

Top left: 1,602 rooftop solar panels at the company's Platteville location, expected to eliminate 14,000 tons of CO2 emissions in their lifetime. Top right: Roth's signature Grand Cru®, aged in Monroe cellars. Middle: Roth Cheese is crafted with milk from local family farms in Southwest Wisconsin. Bottom left: Emily King is the company's first-ever Sustainability Manager, a role created to help advance the specialty cheesemaker's sustainability goals.

kernza a promising wondergrain

Erica Shoenberger first learned about Kernza®, a type of wheatgrass, several years ago when she was working at a permaculture farm in Florida and sat in on a lunchtime seminar with Lee DeHaan, a lead grower of Kernza at the Land Institute in Salina, Kansas. “I was like ‘Oh

my gosh, that is the coolest thing ever,’” Shoenberger says. “I had never heard of perennial grains before.”

Inspired to learn more, Shoenberger began researching graduate programs and reached out to Valentin Picasso, a professor in the University of Wisconsin–

Madison’s Department of Agronomy. “He wasn’t used to people asking about Kernza,” Shoenberger says. Fast-forward a few years and Shoenberger has a master’s degree in agroecology from UW–Madison and is now working on a PhD studying Kernza and nutrient management.

Photo courtesy of Christine Johnson

Kernza grain heads, near harvest time. Perennial Kernza fields are host to insect and mammalian biodiversity year-round, one of Kernza 's environmental benefits.

growing the local market

A perennial, meaning it grows back year after year, Kernza is also known as a “dual purpose,” crop; you can harvest grain from it for human consumption—it can be used for brewing beer, baking and in dishes like grain salads—and you can harvest a highly palatable forage from it for animals. With its deep root system, Kernza also has a number of environmental benefits, including carbon sequestration, preventing soil erosion and improving water quality, giving it the potential to mitigate climate change. For these reasons some refer to Kernza as a “wonder crop,” but Shoenberger acknowledges that it comes with its own set of challenges, including a lack of a viable market for the grain in Wisconsin. “There are structural barriers that can make adoption difficult for the growers specifically,” Shoenberger says. “Farmers might feel like, ‘If I plant this instead of 20 acres of wheat or 20 acres of corn, I might have profit reduction.’” But Shoenberger believes knowledge is power. “A huge part of being able to grow a local Kernza market in Wisconsin is having consumer demand and there can’t be consumer demand if people don’t know about it.” Despite the barriers, Shoenberger is hopeful and believes the Kernza movement will continue to grow in Wisconsin because of its environmental benefits and the grain’s delicious, nutty flavor. “There is so much promise,” she says.

Because of its perennial nature, Kernza can be an appealing crop for growers. (Kernza’s official website boasts, “Tastes great, less tilling.”) “Farmers can plant it once—the ideal planting time is in the fall—then they can harvest in the spring for a forage crop or let their cows or other animals graze the field, and then by August there is a full grain crop from the grass,” Shoenberger says. “You don’t have to do any more planting or anything and then [after harvesting the grain] there is low-quality forage which ends up being more like straw that farmers can harvest in October or November before it goes dormant for the winter and then the same cycle repeats again next year.”

Kernza’s deep root system—up to 10 to 12 feet deep—can store carbon, strengthen

Locally sourced and pasture raised meat and vegetables!

capturing carbon

Deforestation, food production and other human activities have led to an excess of carbon in the atmosphere causing the average global temperature to rise. With its deep root system, Kernza draws carbon from the air and stores it deep in the soil where it increases organic matter adding to the health of the soil. As a perennial, “keep in mind that it is also actively photosynthesizing throughout the entire year whenever it’s 40 degrees or higher,” says Tautges. “And a lot of our annual croplands are bare.” Kernza starts growing whenever temperatures rise above freezing, which can be in March in Wisconsin. “Corn and other annual grains generally don't start growing actively until late April, so that's a lot of extra carbon-capture that Kernza does in the spring—same sort of story in the fall. We also know that most of the nutrient runoff and leaching from agricultural fields occurs from early spring rains when there aren't growing crop roots in the soil taking up soil water, leaving it vulnerable to escape from the field. But Kernza is actively growing during that time period, so it can really help retain soil water and nutrients during a typically vulnerable period in the spring.”

soil and prevent erosion. Schoenberger says growers in Wisconsin’s Driftless region are excited about Kernza’s potential to stabilize fields in an area that is at high risk for soil erosion due to its slopes and topography.

Preventing soil erosion also helps to improve water quality, something that excites Nicole Tautges, an agroecologist with the Michael Fields Agricultural Institute in East Troy. “Studies have shown that Kernza reduces nitrate leaching from croplands by over 90% compared to corn and soybean, so we are getting 90% reduction in nutrient pollutants entering water bodies when you plant Kernza,” Tautges says. “That is the potential of what we are talking about here. It could be a big game changer if we think about strategic positioning of Kernza around vulnerable water bodies or around drainage areas of watersheds. It truly can act like a filter.”

Tautges, who has a PhD in agroecology and worked in a postdoctoral position with Kernza at the University of Minneso-

ta before joining Michael Fields, says she has always been interested in sustainable agriculture research as someone who cares about climate change. “Perennial crops and perennial land cover, they really move the needle on a lot of environmental parameters that we care about in a way that other sustainable management practices like cover cropping don’t. That includes soil health and also carbon storage,” she says. “Very, very, very few practices can actually increase soil carbon levels underground and perennials are one of them.”

While Tautges is enthusiastic about Kernza’s environmental benefits, she also recognizes that farmers might be wary of growing the crop for economic reasons. “We are still not there with the profitability for farmers because we don’t have markets built up…yet,” she says. “We need to spend more resources on professional marketing. A big goal for us is sustained use. We need commitments from people who want a continuous flow of the grain so we can project demand and plan our supply accordingly.”

Kernza root pit in Arlington, Wisconsin.

Photo courtesy of Erica Shoenberger

With its deep root system, Kernza also has a number of environmental benefits, including carbon sequestration, preventing soil erosion and improving water quality, giving it the potential to mitigate climate change.

Wanting to “walk the walk,” Tautges and her colleagues are growing Kernza on 20 acres of their own farmland at Michael Fields, a nonprofit organization with 200 acres of land researching alternative crops. Tautges says she now has 2,000 pounds of Kernza grain sitting in a shed which she has been turning into flour using a small mill; the flour is sold on Michael Fields' website when available. “Someone said to me, ‘See the value chain, be the value chain,’” she says with a laugh. As one of the only retail outlets selling Kernza flour, Tautges is planning on shopping it around to bakers and brewers.

on the menu

Annemarie Maitri and Mark Pavlovich, bakers and co-owners of Bloom Bake Shop in Madison, baked loaves of Kernza sourdough bread last summer when they received a five-pound bag of the flour.

“The smell coming out of the oven is incredible, like cinnamon with deep flavors of honey,” says Pavlovich. Because Kernza doesn’t have as much gluten as traditional wheat flour, Pavlovich used “a supporting cast of glutinous flours” so the bread could keep its structure in a Scandi-style loaf. Despite using about 25% Kernza flour, “the Kernza still dominates…which is impressive considering it was the minority grain in composition but it still punched through in smell and flavor,” Pavlovich says. “People still come in and ask for [the bread.]” While Bloom has run out of Kernza flour for now, Pavlovich is eager for more. “I would love to try it in more products,” he says.

Scott Manning, brewmaster and co-owner of Vintage Brewing Co. in Madison and Sauk City, started learning about Kernza out of his own curiosity when he was approached last summer by artist Tory Tepp about a potential brewing collaboration

using Kernza from his test plot at a farm close to Vintage’s Sauk City location. An artist-in-residence with the Wormfarm Institute, Tepp was looking for a brewery partner to craft a beer for last fall’s Fermentation Fest. “By coincidence his farmer host for the project was William Gasser, the same farmer who picks up my brewery’s spent grain to amend his dairy cattle’s feed,” Manning says. A fan of Fermentation Fest and curious about brewing with a new ingredient, Manning agreed to brew a Kernza beer, a mellow amber ale they call “Z’Quester” Toasted Kernza Amber. “I went for a relatively neutral and malty style to push the Kernza’s mildly nutty, cereal-like flavor to the forefront, and left the hop bitterness medium/low to not distract from the grain’s innate character,” Manning says.

While Vintage already had a relationship with Gasser as they provide him with “spent grains” at no cost—“it’s of no fur-

Erica Schoenberger in a Kernza field near Lancaster, Wisconsin in summer of 2022.

Photo courtesy of Dr. Priscila Pinto

“Farmers can plant it once—the ideal planting time is in the fall—then they can harvest in the spring for a forage crop or let their cows or other animals graze the field, and then by August there is a full grain crop from the grass.”

—Erica Schoenberger

ther use to us but pig and cattle farmers cherish this byproduct as an additional feed source for their animals,” Manning says—brewing a beer with local Kernza brought this connection to the next level. “It's quite rare and special to have brewed a beer with grain grown five miles away, and then returned the same grain, once used, back to the same place for use again. I can't think of a tighter circle of life for a brewing grain on the commercial scale,” Manning says.

Whilden Hughes, a farmer at W. Hughes Farm G.P. near Janesville, started growing Kernza on his land as part of a water quality project with the DNR. “Water quality has always been something that I have had a real interest in, I have spent my whole life next to the Rock River,” he says. Hughes was also interested in Kernza’s benefits as a perennial crop. “Coming from a family farm that is predominantly small grain crops and annual vegetables, the perennial aspect has been really interesting for me to witness,” Hughes says. “It has a transformational aspect

to it in that it requires a fraction of the fuel, tillage, soil disruption and chemical inputs that modern commercial-scale agriculture uses. It’s also a fraction of the yield, so there is an asterisk to that statement.” Echoing Shoenberger and Tautges, Hughes says there is currently almost no market for Kernza in Wisconsin. In order for farmers to grow it, it has to make sense. “It has to earn its place on the farm,” he says.

To help create demand for the grain, Hughes helped found Perennial Promise Growers Cooperative, a group of growers who are pooling their resources to reach out to companies who might be interested in purchasing Kernza. It was through the cooperative that Hughes recently made a connection with Lakefront Brewery in Milwaukee; a Lakefront Kernza beer using Hughes’ grain is now in the works. “You have to start somewhere. Hopefully by the end of it we will have a much more sustainable, much more regional grain shed,” Hughes says. “It’s just the beginning of the story.”

finding kernza

While Kernza growers are working hard behind the scenes to build awareness around the perennial grain, consumers also play a critical role in growing a viable Kernza market.

Nicole Tautges, a grower with the Michael Fields Institute, says the best thing people can do to build demand for the product is to buy it and “spread the word to friends!” Alex Heilman, director of supply & trade for Mad Agriculture, a nonprofit organization which supports regenerative agriculture, concurs. “There are certainly actionable steps consumers can take such as seeking out the handful of Kernza products on the market like Patagonia Provisions Kernza pasta and Cascadian Farms Kernza cereal,” Heilman says. “We [also] need more consumers talking about Kernza and spreading awareness to their local breweries, bakeries and restaurants, who in turn can develop more products and activate demand. Creating a market for a new crop is really about activating an entire ecosystem.”

To find Kernza products online, Tautges suggests checking out the following websites:

perennial pantry

perennial-pantry.com

columbia county bread

columbiacountybread.com/ products/sprouted-kernzaperennial-grain-flour-15-oz

Photo courtesy of Perennial Pantry

Building a Stronger Local Food System, 25 Years and Counting

By REAP Food Group

REAP Food Group has spent the past 25 years focused on the same goal: to nourish the roots that allow communities, economies and lives to thrive. From our new perch on the second floor of the historic Garver Feed Mill on Madison’s east side, our work continues to evolve.

Farm to School

Understanding that Farm to School works best in conjunction with strong school nutrition programs, REAP partners with area schools to support their individual needs, while assisting in research and advocating for local, state and federal policies that benefit students and school nutrition programs as a whole. Our current priority, Healthy School Meals for All Wisconsin, would provide universal free meals to all Wisconsin students.

Through a longstanding partnership with Madison Metropolitan School District (MMSD), REAP has worked to feed the students with knowledge and curiosity. The REAP Farm to School Snack provides a weekly fruit or veggie snack to elementary schools participating in the MMSD Fresh Fruit and Vegetable Program. Throughout 2022, interactive virtual farm tours and local foods celebration videos, produced through a USDA grant with MMSD, brought farms to the classroom.

Farm Fresh Atlas

Since 2002, the Farm Fresh Atlas has showcased local food growers, producers and processors committed to building a stronger local food system in Wisconsin. In an effort to streamline all five Atlas regions operating independently throughout the state, REAP will create a single, comprehensive resource servicing all its Wisconsin member farms and food businesses.

By expanding the Farm Fresh Atlas’s services, REAP Food Group hopes to more seamlessly connect consumers to local food, increase demand for specialty crops, and enhance marketing and networking opportunities for our growing roster of members.

Dane County Food Collective

The same hospitality workers who feed and serve our communities also need to feel nourished. The Dane County Food Collective (DCFC), established in 2021, addresses the needs and concentrates the efforts of service industry workers, farmers, nonprofit organizations and community members to improve the well-being of food system professionals through advocacy, resource-sharing, health and wellness efforts and collective action.

When you support REAP, DCFC’s fiscal sponsor, you allow us to further our mission to transform the food system by building meaningful relationships and bolstering the efforts of like-minded food systems organizations, like DCFC.

Make a donation today at reapfoodgroup.org/give

Chef Elena Terry of Wild Bearies makes corn cookies (left) and Alex Booker of Badger Rock Neighborhood Center demonstrates harvesting collards (right) as part of the Harvest of the Month video series.

Photo by Sunny Frantz

When summer rolls around, there’s nothing we want to do more than pile a dozen different vegetables into a bowl and call it lunch. Pair raw, roasted or gently sautéed veggies with a grain (maybe even a local one!) and that dream is complete. Enjoy these simple, nourishing summer grain salads on their own or add fried eggs, tofu or some grilled fish if you need a bit more heft.

G o ttalove a grainbowl

Summer Rye Berry Salad

If you want to use a local grain, there’s no better place to explore than Meadowlark Community Mill’s website. These New York City chefs turned farmers are producing an array of flour, dried beans and berries on their organic farm outside Ridgeway. Berries are the hulled, whole kernel form of wheat, rye or spelt and they make a great, toothsome grain salad.

Serves 4

Prep time: 15 minutes

Cook time: 1 hour

INGREDIENTS

1 cup rye berries

4 cups water

Kosher salt

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 small red onion, diced

2 medium cucumbers, peeled and cut into small chunks

2–3 ears fresh sweet corn, kernels cut off the cob

¼ cup lemon juice

2 tablespoons sesame oil

2 tablespoons soy sauce

¼ cup basil leaves, torn

DIRECTIONS

1. Combine the rye berries and water in a medium pot. Swish the berries around and remove any that float or are off-color. Add a pinch of salt, then bring to a boil. Once the water’s boiling, reduce to a low simmer, and cover the pot with a lid. Cook for 45–60 minutes. (Some of the berries should have burst, and they'll be tender with a little chew.) Drain and set aside.

2. In a large sauté pan, add 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the diced onion and a pinch of salt. Cook gently over medium-low heat until the onions are translucent and tender. Turn off the heat. Add the cucumbers and sweet corn kernels and stir to warm through.

3. In a small bowl or jar, combine the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil with the lemon juice, sesame oil, soy sauce and ½ teaspoon salt. Whisk or shake the mixture to emulsify.

4. In a large bowl, combine the rye berries and vegetables. Stir in about half the dressing, and taste the salad. There should be a balance of sweetness from the corn and cucumbers, and umami from the dressing and rye berries. Add more dressing if necessary. Top with torn basil.

Note: If the salad is stored in the refrigerator, bring it to room temperature before serving. Also, the rye berries will absorb the dressing over time, so it is good to have a little leftover dressing on hand.

Recipe by Halee Wepking of Meadowlark Community Mill

Persian-Inspired Wild Rice Bowl

It’s no surprise that a recipe from our local CSA coalition would play up the beautiful variety of produce available this time of year. CSA members and enthusiasts are experts at using a wide range of vegetables in one recipe, and this wonderful wild rice bowl is no exception. The hearty bowl is an herby, vibrant celebration of summer inspired by Persian flavors. Note that this recipe calls for a few unique or less common spices. If you have trouble finding them at your usual grocery store, you can find them all at Penzeys Spices.

Serves 6-8

Prep time: 20 minutes

Cook time: 1 to 1½ hours

INGREDIENTS

For Salad:

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 cup wild rice, rinsed

2 tablespoons sesame seeds, plus more for garnish

½ teaspoon salt

3 cups water

1 cup chopped walnuts or pistachios

1 large red onion, thinly sliced

1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced

1 bunch kale, stems removed, leaves torn

1 bunch broccolini, stems sliced into short bits, tops left intact

1 medium zucchini, sliced very thin

1 cup chopped tender herbs (choose basil, parsley, chives, mint, dill, fennel fronds or a blend), plus more for garnish

1 tablespoon capers

4 ounces French-style feta (like Valbreso) or goat cheese (like Meredith Dairy)

For Dressing:

5 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons tahini

3 tablespoons champagne or white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses

1 tablespoon caper brine

1 tablespoon ground Aleppo pepper

1 tablespoon crushed toasted pink

peppercorns

1 teaspoon Za’atar blend

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon sumac, plus more for garnish

DIRECTIONS

1. Combine 2 tablespoons of olive oil, wild rice, sesame seeds and ½ teaspoon salt in a large saucepan. Toast over low heat until fragrant, about 3 minutes.

2. Add the water, then cover and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 60 minutes. When finished cooking, remove from the heat but leave the pan covered to steam for an additional 10 minutes. Then uncover, fluff the rice with a fork, and set aside.

3. While the rice is cooking, warm 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the walnuts or pistachios and cook, stirring frequently, until toasted, about 6 minutes. Use a slotted spoon or spatula to place the toasted nuts in a small bowl, reserving some of the oil in the pan.

4. Add another tablespoon of olive oil to the large sauté pan and keep on medium heat. Add the red onion and the white portions of the scallions (reserving the green tops for later). Sauté until starting to color, about 10 minutes. Add the broccolini stems; cook for a few minutes until just softened. Reduce heat to low, add the torn kale leaves and broccolini tops and cook until wilted slightly, about 5 minutes.

5. To make the dressing, combine 5 tablespoons of olive oil with the tahini, vinegar, lemon juice, molasses and caper brine in a medium bowl. Whisk to combine. Add the ground Aleppo pepper, crushed toasted pink peppercorns, Za’atar blend, red pepper flakes and sumac, and mix well again.

6. In a small mixing bowl, add the dressing to the zucchini, scallion greens, fresh herbs and capers. Toss well to coat. To assemble, divide the wild rice among bowls. Spoon the sautéed veggies over the rice, then layer the dressed zucchini and herbs over the top. Sprinkle with feta or goat cheese. If desired, garnish with extra sesame seeds, sumac and fresh herbs. Serve while the rice is slightly warm, or chill the rice bowls and serve cold.

Recipe by Sadie Willis of FairShare CSA Coalition

Photos by Sunny Frantz

Zucchini Farro Salad with Burrata & Lemon

This recipe combines a few of my favorite flavors of summer: deeply cooked onions, tender, almost jammy zucchini, bright lemon zest, and a big ball of fresh burrata. If you’re not a fan of burrata, thick pieces of shaved Parmesan also work well.

Serves 4

Prep time: 15 minutes

Cook time: 40 minutes

INGREDIENTS

3 cups water

1 teaspoon salt, divided

1 cup farro

¼ cup butter

1 yellow onion, sliced

2 garlic cloves, sliced

3 medium zucchini, halved and sliced

1 lemon

8 ounces burrata

¼ cup thinly sliced basil leaves, optional

DIRECTIONS

1. In a medium saucepan, bring the water and ½ teaspoon salt to a boil. Add the farro and return to a simmer. Simmer gently until tender and chewy, about 15 minutes. Drain and rinse the farro under cold water.

2. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Sauté until the onions begin to take on color, about 10 minutes. Add the zucchini and cook for 15 minutes over medium-high heat until the zucchini are deeply caramelized but not completely broken down (you want them to still have some bite). Remove from heat and add the farro to the pan. Toss gently.

3. When ready to serve, divide the farro mixture into bowls. Zest lemon over each dish. Then cut the lemon in half and squeeze juice from half a lemon over the bowls. Add 2 ounces burrata and basil to each bowl.

Marinated Millet Salad with Tomatoes & Cucumbers

Tomatoes make a wonderful addition to any grain salad. They add brightness, acidity and a pop of color. However, they release their juices as the salad sits which can make it a bit soggy. For that reason, this salad is best eaten right away. If you want to prepare it in advance, be sure to add the tomatoes right before serving.

Serves 4

Prep time: 15 minutes

Cook time: 35 minutes

INGREDIENTS

¾ cup millet

1½ cups water

1½ teaspoons salt, divided

⅔ cup parsley leaves, minced

5 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from ~2 lemons)

⅓ cup olive oil

2 cucumbers, diced

1 quart cherry tomatoes

1 pound heirloom tomatoes, cut into large chunks

1 spring onion (or ½ medium red onion), thinly sliced

DIRECTIONS

1. In a medium saucepan, toast the millet over medium heat until it smells fragrant, about 5 minutes, being careful not to let it burn. Add water and ¼ teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to low, cover, and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from the burner and let it sit for 5 minutes. Then remove the lid and gently fluff the millet with a fork. Let cool for 10 minutes.

2. While the millet is cooking, make the dressing. Combine the parsley, lemon juice and ½ teaspoon salt in a small bowl. Let sit while the millet cools or for at least 15 minutes. Add the olive oil, and stir until well-incorporated.

3. In a large bowl, combine the parsley dressing and the cooled millet. Stir well with a spatula so that the dressing coats the millet and any clumps are broken up. Add the cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, heirloom tomatoes, onion and the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt.

Recipes by Lauren Rudersdorf

Photo by Sunny Frantz

MORE THAN MEATS THE EYE

Athens Grill is located between a gas station and a strip mall. Based on the name, you’d expect gyros and a Greek salad to be on the menu. And you’d be right.

But this Waunakee restaurant, co-owned by Andy Ziegler and the Ladopoulos family (Nick Ladopoulos, Mary Layoun and their sons Kyo and Odysseus) has a few revelations that more people should know about.

First, in addition to classic Greek fare, Athens Grill also offers burgers, mac and cheese, a weekly pizza night (Wednesdays) and fish fry (Fridays). The bar has over 200 bourbons and rye whiskeys available for pouring and 16 rotating craft brew taps. These aren’t the only well-kept secrets.

There’s an onsite bakery, where Ziegler’s brother George Ziegler oversees making all the hamburger buns, baked desserts and pizzas. (A full line of gluten-free bakery items is supplied by MYBREAD in Racine.)

In the basement, a USDA-certified meat processing facility purchases US-raised beef and lamb to make all-natural gyro cones that are distributed across the region. (The recipe was created by Athens Grill former operating owner Gus Kyriakopoulos.) And adding to their meat dynasty, Athens just acquired Knoche’s of Middleton, taking over their meat processing and wholesale accounts.

Adjacent to the restaurant’s order counter is a small shop that sells Athens’ house-made

tzatziki and hummus, along with take-and-bake pizzas, gyro kits, craft beer, pints of frozen yogurt and bottles of bourbon.

There are also milkshakes and rotating frozen yogurt flavors like peach, salted caramel and strawberry dream that you can pick up at the drive-thru window with your order.

The Ladopoulos family and their former business partner Kyriakopoulos started Athens Gyros inside the gas station next door in 2006.

In 2016, when the gas station changed hands and Kyriakopoulos decided to retire, the Ladopouloses weren’t sure what to do next. They decided to call Ziegler, Odysseus Ladopoulos’ close friend.

Photo by SpotHopper

Ziegler grew up as an honorary member of the family, even traveling with them to Greece many summers. He is also a chef who developed his skills in fine dining establishments in Madison and eventually Colorado. Ziegler was searching for a way back to Wisconsin. He came on as a partner to spearhead the development and building of the soon-to-be Athens Grill in the building next door (which was designed to be a bank, complete with drive-thru window).

The menu is made up of familiar foods, but Ziegler makes sure what you put in your mouth is better than what you’re anticipating from a fast-casual restaurant. His philosophy is “real food prepared by hand, using fresh ingredients that everyone can afford.” He takes a fine-dining

approach to food when it comes to quality and preparation, but the cost is economical and the presentation isn’t fussy.

He keeps pricing in check with vertical integration (processing their own meat and baking their own bread), smart sourcing and excellent vendor relationships. As for quality, everything is processed and made in house, according to their recipes. Cheese doesn’t arrive pre-shredded, and tomatoes aren’t purchased already chopped.

Ziegler sources from local producers and farmers whenever he can. Vegetables, like cucumbers and tomatoes, are purchased from local farms in the summer and acquired through a relationship with Jenifer Street Market in winter. Cheese comes from Carr Valley and Capri Cheese.

Ziegler worked closely with Country View Dairy in Iowa (a farmstead yogurt company) to develop the exact texture and flavor profile for the saucy Greek-style yogurt used to make their tzatziki. His menu and kitchen are carefully planned to execute well-made dishes at lightning speed. For example, Athens’ mac-and-cheese sauce is actually made from real cheese and milk (instead of processed cheese), but using a modernist cuisine technique, it can be held hot without separating and an order can be out the door in minutes. His “pick up” for any order averages three minutes (that’s restaurant jargon for how long it takes for an order to be made). That’s really fast. McDonald’s averages three to five minutes per order.

Opposite page: Athens' Gyro Burger on a house-made bun. Top: Andy Ziegler and the autodoner in the basement of Athens Grill where the meat processing facility is located. Bottom right: Pedro Jimenez cutting house-made gyro meat off the cone. Bottom left: Andy Ziegler prepares a gyro cone for shipment.

Photos by Nicole Peaslee

Top right, bottom left photos by SpotHopper.

Top left, bottom right photos by Nicole Peaslee.

Ziegler sticks to the classics on the menu and the bar, because that’s what his customers want. “I let our customers dictate the product, but I’m building a product that is better than what they’re expecting. My biggest idea for Athens Grill is that our menu is made with the same love and care that fine food is, but deliv ered in an approachable way, at a price point where people can afford to eat here more than once a week.”

Along with well-sourced and well-made food, customers can enjoy their meal at an incredibly well-stocked bar. The Athens team realized after opening that folks were looking to sit and enjoy a drink with their meal, so they expanded the physical bar to accommodate more people. Craft beer was always a focus, and Athens’ 16 rotating taps feature local and regional breweries like Working Draft, Delta Beer Lab, Toppling Goliath, Half Acre and Revolution.

The bourbon program is a personal passion of Ziegler’s. When the pandemic hit and Athens shut down their indoor dining, Ziegler became the bartender in charge of purchasing and began stocking up on hard-to-find bottles when no one else was buying them. He still has some of these today, but also has developed relationships that allow him to get coveted bottles like Old Fitzgerald 17-year and 19-year and the Heritage Collection from Heaven Hill. He launched the Bourbon Republic in 2022, a bourbon club that meets quarterly and has an annual trip to Kentucky to choose a barrel with partner distilleries.

The menu is made up of familiar foods, but Ziegler makes sure what you put in your mouth is better than what you’re anticipating from a fast-casual restau rant. His philosophy is “real food prepared by hand, using fresh ingredients that everyone can afford.”

Top left: Sarah Vastile handing a chocolate shake through the drive-thru window.

Top right: Build-your-own gyro plate for two.

Bottom right: Staff preparing onions.

Bottom left: Knoche's classic burger served on a house-made bun.

640 W. Washington Ave. | Open 11AM-9PM Daily

Ziegler credits the success of Athens Grill not only to the recipes and deep bar, but also their employees. There are 26 employees, led by a core group that has been with him for years (gyro master Pedro Jimenez has worked there for 16 years). Having little turnover in managerial positions is unusual in the industry and makes it easier to maintain high quality standards.

And here’s the real secret of Athens Grill: Whether you’re zipping through the drive-thru for house-made gyros, salad and frozen yogurt, or bellying up to the bar for a rare bourbon, Athens Grill is not your typical fast-food gyro joint. Yes, you will get your food quickly and at an affordable price. But the recipes are original, the ingredients thoughtfully sourced, and everything from the gyro meat to the pizza crusts are made on-site, from scratch.

Top: Handmade frozen pizzas available every day in the marketplace.

Bottom: Bourbon tasting flight.

“I let our customers dictate the product, but I’m building a product that is better than what they’re expecting. My biggest idea for Athens Grill is that our menu is made with the same love and care that fine food is, but delivered in an approachable way, at a price point where people can afford to eat here more than once a week.”

Top photo by Nicole Peaslee. Bottom photo by SpotHopper.

OUR SALMON HOT DOGS ARE DELICIOUS, HEALTHY, AND SUSTAINABLE IN EVERY BITE!

Eat & Drink Guide

Unique country roadhouse serving locally-grown beef and other local products. Visit our facebook page for Wood-fired Oven Pizza Nights and other events. Worth the drive!

A small-batch cider company in the Driftless Region that pairs a farm-to-table menu with farm-to-table ciders. Every bite and every sip supports the bountiful Driftless Region community.

An award-winning, destination cafe serving from-scratch bakery items, stellar espresso from two small batch local roasters, and breakfast and lunch in downtown Oregon.

A spacious lounge offering cocktails, brunch, local brews, upscale bar fare (including vegan and gluten free options), and regular live music inside the historic Garver Feed Mill five days a week.

A fourth-generation, grain-to-glass, family-run bourbon farm offering tours and a tasting room. Enjoy internationally acclaimed, heirloom four-grain bourbons (and soon ryes!) just north of Madison.

Bringing the flavors of the Southwest to the Midwest with time-honored recipes. Madison’s favorite margarita! Gathering with friends for over thirty-five years.

A restaurant, market, meal kit service, and event space serving a locally-sourced daily menu to folks who are hungry for high-quality, healthy meals, but starved for time.

Located in the Old Royal Inn, Cafe 43 is a gathering place for friends to enjoy scratch-made breakfast, lunch, pastries, and amazing coffee.

132 S Main St, Lime Ridge BRANDINGIRONRH.COM

119 S 2nd St, Mount Horeb BRIXCIDER.COM

43 High St, Mineral Point CAFE43MP.COM

114 N Main St, Oregon FIREFLYCOFFEEHOUSE.COM

3241 Garver Green, Madison GARVEREVENTS.COM/LOUNGE

7794 Patton Rd, Dane JHENRYANDSONS.COM

A beautiful shop offering delicious gluten-free baked goods, excellent coffee, and decadent chocolates, caramels, truffles and more.

729 Glenway St, Madison MADISONCHOCOLATECOMPANY.COM

6712 Frank Lloyd Wright Ave #102, Middleton 100 Cross Country Rd, Verona PASQUALSCANTINA.COM

2433 University Ave, Madison PASTUREANDPLENTY.COM

The downtown destination for great corner tavern food featuring an ever-changing selection of craft beers and a wonderful outdoor patio.

A community-owned grocery and deli featuring local and organic food. Hot bar, salad bar and grab-and-go options available daily. Indoor and outdoor seating.

A charming cafe located in beautiful Stoughton serving espresso, housemade bakery items, breakfast, lunch, and specialty goods.

102 King St, Madison TIPSYCOWMADISON.COM

609 N Main St, Viroqua VIROQUAFOOD.COOP

218 S Forrest St, Stoughton WILDWOOD-CAFE.COM

When you're thinking of going out to explore a new place to eat or meet friends for drinks please consider these generous sponsors.

Want to see more resources?

Check our local guide online: ediblemadison.com/local-guide

Humane Chicken Harvest Workshop

breakfast & lunch

daily specials

farbretonbakery.com

A one-of-a-kind bakery specializing in handcrafted, all-butter croissant creations available at their storefront as well as the Dane County and Northside farmers’ markets.

1924 Fordem Ave, Madison FARBRETONBAKERY.COM

A cozy, upbeat spot to grab delicious, ethically sourced coffee and other specialty drinks. Thoughtfully developed breakfast and lunch menus highlight local goods.

815 Water Ave, Hillsboro LETSSHINECOFFEE.COM

A historic, lovingly restored dairy factory with a farmto-table restaurant, bar, cafe, and 8-room boutique hotel nestled on the banks of the Sugar River.

6858 Paoli Rd, Belleville SEVENACREDAIRYCO.COM

A renowned historic site that is home to a familyowned Wisconsin winery, distillery, and bistro. Open daily year-round for tours and tastings.

7876 Hwy 188, Prairie du Sac WOLLERSHEIM.COM

Certified Organic Farm

Lovingly Pastured Chickens

Shorten your Food Chain

Build your Food System Resilience

Small Class Size

Select Weekends

June-October

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vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options made from scratch with local ingredients

dine-in, patio or takeout order online at sunncafe.com

201 E Main St, Mt Horeb

Mon-Sat, 7:30-3:00 @ sunn_cafe

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GROCERY STORES & FARMERS' MARKETS

LARK MARKET larkmarket.store

VIROQUA FOOD CO-OP viroquafood.coop

WANDER PROVISIONS wanderprovisions.com

WILLY STREET CO-OP willystreet.coop

LIFESTYLE & KITCHEN CONVIVIO enableyourtable.com

GOOD DAY SHOP gooddayshop.net

THE LITTLE MARKETPLACE thelittlemarketplace.com

MCFEE ON MAIN mcfeeonmain.com

RED BARN AT GRIFF RUN griffrun.com/shop

SIFT & WINNOW siftandwinnow.com

WISCONSIN CUTLERY & KITCHEN SUPPLY wisconsincutlery.com

HOME & GARDEN

LATITUDE REGENERATIVE REAL ESTATE chooselatitude.com/markvoss

SECOND NATURE AT READS CREEK secondnatureatreadscreek.com

SEED SAVERS EXCHANGE seedsavers.org

HEALTH & WELLNESS CONSCIOUS PRACTICE conscious-practice.com

HEDGE MEADOW HERBS hedgemeadowherbs.com

LUMINOUS ROSE luminousrosebeauty.com

TELSAAN TEA telsaan.com

TOURISM

JANESVILLE AREA

CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU janesvillecvb.com

LATARNIA GUEST HOUSE latarniaguesthouse.com

OLBRICH BOTANICAL GARDENS olbrich.org

SEVEN ACRE DAIRY sevenacredairyco.com

TALIESIN taliesinpreservation.org

FARMS & FOOD GOODS

DOUDLAH FARMS doudlahfarms.com

J. HENRY & SONS jhenryandsons.com

MEADOWLARK FARM & COMMUNITY MILL meadowlarkorganics.com

RIEMER FAMILY FARM riemerfamilyfarm.com

WINTERFELL ACRES winterfellacres.com

FOOD, AGRICULTURAL & SUSTAINABILITY ORGANIZATIONS

FAIRSHARE CSA COALITION csacoaliton.org

REAP FOOD GROUP reapfoodgroup.org

SAVOR THE RIVER VALLEY savortherivervalley.org

FOOD & BEVERAGES

BAILEY’S RUN VINEYARD baileysrunvineyard.com

BANDIT TACOS & COFFEE bandit-tacos.com

BOTHAM VINEYARDS bothamvineyards.com

THE CIDER FARM theciderfarm.com

THE COOPERS TAVERN thecooperstavern.com

DANCING GOAT DISTILLERY dancinggoat.com

THE DELICIOUSER thedeliciouser.com

EMMI ROTH CHEESE rothcheese.com

ISLAND ORCHARD CIDER islandorchardcider.com

GIANT JONES giantjones.com

LARK larkjanesville.com

LOMBARDINO’S lombardinos.com

MADISON SOURDOUGH madisonsourdough.com

MIGRANTS migrantsmadison.com

ORGANIC PRAIRIE organicprairie.com

ORIGIN BREADS originbreads.com

PASTURE & PLENTY | P&P MAKESHOP pastureandplenty.com

RUDE BREW KOMBUCHA rudebrewkombucha.com

SEVEN ACRE DAIRY sevenacredairyco.com

SUNN CAFE sunncafe.com

SUNSHINE BREWING CO. sunshinebrewco.com

WONDERSTATE COFFEE wonderstatecoffee.com

PETS

THE PETINARY CLINIC petinaryclinic.com

On a warm summer day, the only thing better than eating ice cream is eating ice cream for a good cause. At Ice Cream Social,10% of proceeds from their ever rotating lineup of frozen treats benefits area nonprofit organizations. Fan favorites like Movie Theater Trash Can (buttered popcorn ice cream with Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, M&Ms, and a salted caramel swirl) are served up in crisp cones from their University Avenue shop in Madison.

Photo by Nikki Hansen

MARISSA DEGROOT