Edible Rio Grande Valley - Summer 2023

EAT. DRINK. THINK. LOCAL.

RECIPES

16 Texas Shrimp Summer Salad with T hree Citrus Vinaigrette

17 Panko Butterfly Shrimp with Creamy Avocado Dipping Sauce

17 Texas Ceviche

21 Parchment-Wrapped, Oven-Baked Halibut with Olive Relish

22 W hite Bean and Spanish Chorizo Salad

23 Vegan Carlota de Limón

ON THE COVER Shrimp boats docked at the Port of Brownsville Shrimp Basin at dawn.

Summer is here!

Summer, to me, means beach days, enjoying and eating seafood, watersports, fishing, sun and sand. Summer was the time I most wished I was back in the Rio Grande Valley when I was living in New York City. We wanted this issue to feel like summer from cover to cover. In it, we take on the serious topic of the state of the shrimping industry, celebrate the work that Sea Turtle Inc. does and provide, oh, so many fun and delicious summer recipes!

No matter where I’ve been, shrimp from the Gulf of Mexico is always the best. The more that I have heard about the hardships the local shrimping industry faces, the more that I realize it’s us, the consumer, who needs to be informed and ask for Gulf shrimp to be served wherever we dine. It’s easy to assume we are eating Gulf shrimp in the Valley, especially on South Padre Island, but the reality is that if the menu does not specify Gulf shrimp, then it’s not. Gulf shrimp is a premium product and, as such, comes at a premium price. The beautiful part is that when you buy local Gulf shrimp from a local seafood market, let’s say Los Tortugos in Port Isabel, your dollar stays here and you support the local business, the local workers and the local industry, thereby expanding our local food economy.

The work that Sea Turtle Inc. has done for the last 45 years is phenomenal. Getting to know the staff and the work they do was a true honor. The facility is amazing to visit if you find yourself on the island and looking for something fun to do. While I have never been to a turtle release, it is on my summer bucket list this year!

We chose Mahi Nic’s for our first In Conversation piece as it exemplifies what I value in a restaurant experience. It is customer driven, sustainable, environment friendly, and the food just tastes good! Owners Wendy and Billy Nichols are the nicest people. They lead by example and love what they do. What else could you ask for? On this topic we ask you, our readers, to let us know the places you love so we can expand this section. We ask that the businesses are locally owned, provide a great experience and try to source locally. If a place comes to mind, please email it to letty@ediblergv.com.

So many recipes … we have heard that you all truly enjoy them. Of course in this issue, we needed to include as many shrimp recipes as possible. VIVA is the new hot restaurant on the island — the drinks are fabulous, the food is delicious and the view is one of a kind. The chef, Blake Angelos, shows us a bit of his Greek heritage with his fish recipe. His olive relish will be in my fridge all summer long. Our dessert recipe in this issue is easy to make and can travel well to all your summer BBQs. It’s also vegan! Las Ramblas was recently chosen as a finalist for a James Beard Award in the Outstanding Bar — such an honor. Las Ramblas’ cocktail and spirits director Chris Galicia shares with us three refreshing recipes that show the versatility, flavors and styles of spritzes. While I tend to drink spritzes year-round, they really do make summer feel like it’s really here. I love the flavors of floral and citrus, the gorgeous colors but most of all that they’re low ABV cocktails, we can drink them all day long. My go-to right now is any amaro and Topo Chico. Order an Apreol Spritz at your next brunch and give them a try! Please share photos of your favorite dishes with us on Instagram @edibleriograndevalley.

We invite you to share this issue with friends and family. When you spot Edible RGV, make sure to take more than one copy so you can pass them around! I would like to thank our advertisers; without them, you would not be reading this issue. Please support the businesses that allow us to bring this magazine to you.

I wish everyone a fabulous and safe summer, and don’t forget the sunscreen!

PUBLISHER

Jacqueline Folacci

EDITOR

Letty Fernandez

PHOTO EDITOR

Daniela Loera

CONTRIBUTORS

Blake Angelos

John Burnett

Christopher Galicia

Wendy Knight

Amanda Nolan

Texas Department of Agriculture

Eugenio Uribe

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Denise Cathey

Daniela Loera

LAYOUT DESIGN

Matthew and Tina Freeman

COPY EDITORS

Doresa Banning

Marci Caltibiano-Ponce

Cristina Tijerina

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

Sara Ortiz

ADVERTISING

advertise@edibleriograndevalley.com

CONTACT US hola@ediblergv.com

TO SUBSCRIBE

Visit us online at edibleriograndevalley.com

edible Rio Grande Valley is published quarterly by GC Publishing LLC. Subscription rate is $28 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us at hola@ediblergv.com. Thank you.

©2023. All rights reserved

edibleriograndevalley.com

Jacqueline Folacci Publisher

Congratulations!

Wright Vineyards started selling its wines in the Valley. The farm and winery located near La Feria is a dream come true and an adventure for owners Turner and Matiana “Nena” Wright. They launched the business in 2017.

“It’s been an exciting journey of learning experiences. We worked tirelessly to grow our grapes, we learned the winemaking process through lots of trial and error and now we are proud to share our product with the Valley,” says Turner.

All the grapes are grown, harvested and processed in the Valley. The wines are created by local winemaker Kate Coleman and are named for famous animals that “roam South Texas and give it character.”

They include Ocelot Blanc du Bois, Nilgai Bull Lenoir and Rattlesnake Rosé, all of which are now available online at wrightvineyards.com and at Dodici Provisions in Brownsville. The Wrights are working with a distributor to sell their wines in local restaurants and additional stores.

Los Chilaquiles Mexican Buffet in Pharr made the list of “Where to Find Some of the Best Chilaquiles in Texas” and was featured in an article in Texas Highways magazine. Read it at texashighways.com.

Chilaquiles are a traditional Mexican breakfast dish. Corn tortillas are quartered, lightly fried and topped with ample green or red salsa. Sometimes pulled chicken, cream, queso fresco and avocado slices are included.

Edible RGV Publisher Jacqueline Folacci moderated a panel, “Farm to Table: Chefs and Farmers on Eating Sustainably,” at the UTRGV Earth Fest Food Summit. She says, “We are proud to be part of these important conversations on the Rio Grande Valley’s food culture. We’re thankful to the UTRGV Agroecology Program and the Office of Sustainability for including us in their event.”

Brownsville

Lettuce Eat Salad

3341 Pablo Kisel Blvd., Ste. R McAllen

AMBRA

1200 Auburn Ave., Ste. 200

South Padre Island

VIVA

202 W. Whiting St.

Know someone who should be in Notable Edibles? Send us a note at hola@ediblergv.com.

What’s In Season

June – August

What to Harvest

June & July

Bell Peppers

Cantaloupe

Corn

Cucumbers

Dragon Fruit

Green Beans

Mangos

Melons

Microgreens

Sweet Peppers

Tomatoes

Watermelon

Zucchini

All Season

Eggplant

Okra

Sweet Peppers

What to Plant

Dragon Fruit

Microgreens

Okra

CULTIVATING

HEALTHY FOODS & LIFESTYLES

La Cocina Alegre - Healthy Cooking Classes

Fresco Mobile Market - Our farmer’s market on wheels

Community Gardens & Urban Farms - Learn to grow your own food with organic methods

Brownsville Farmer’s Market - Open every Saturday from 9am-12pm at Linear Park, Brownsville

Nesting intoSummer

Volunteers Play Important Role In Protecting Kemp’s Ridleys Sea Turtles

STORY BY WENDY KNIGHT | PHOTOS COURTESY OF SEA TURTLE INC.

As we enter summer in the Rio Grande Valley we think of sand, sun and sea … turtles. A trip to South Padre Island would not be complete without a visit to Sea Turtle Inc. and a look at the amazing efforts taking place there to protect the critically endangered Kemp’s ridley sea turtle.

Sea Turtle Inc. has been a staple of the Valley for 45 years. Founded in 1977, the nonprofit organization is dedicated to rescuing, rehabilitating and releasing sea turtles right on South Padre Island and Boca Chica beaches.

Nesting season runs from mid-April to early September each year, and the tone of this year’s nesting season is excitement and anticipation.

“Last year’s nesting season was the largest nesting season in the history for South Padre Island and Sea Turtle Inc.,” says the group’s chief executive officer Wendy Knight. “With over 100 nesting females protected and more than 10,000 hatching eggs safeguarded last year, we are ramped up and ready for another busy nesting season.”

South Padre Island and Boca Chica beaches are the nesting grounds for these most critically endangered species, Kemp’s ridley sea turtles. The small staff at Sea Turtle Inc. along with a strong volunteer force, patrols more than 7,400 miles per season up and down the beaches to watch for and protect nesting or injured sea turtles. The community is a huge part of this work as many of the nesting females are spotted and called in by vacationers and residents who are out enjoying the beaches.

Kemp’s ridley hatchling being released back into the Gulf

Did You Know?

• In the last 10 years Sea Turtle Inc. has safeguarded more than 71,000 hatching eggs.

• In February 2021 Sea Turtle Inc. treated more than 5,500 cold stunned sea turtles in the largest event of this kind in recorded history.

• The Kemp’s ridley is the only sea turtle that nests during the daytime.

• A single nesting female can return to nest two to three times a season and can lay 80 to 120 eggs in each nest.

• Sea turtle patients stay in the hospital 75 days on average before they are released back into the ocean.

• There are seven species of sea turtles, and all seven are protected under the Endangered Species Act.

“When I turn left on the sand to head north and the sun is opening a new day over the Gulf of Mexico, my eyes focus on the beach looking for the tracks of the Momma Kemp’s that will lead to her disguised nest and clutch of eggs to be gathered and protected by our ultra-qualified conservation team. This is livin’ the dream for me,” says volunteer John Spreen.

What You Can Do to Help

• If you see an injured or nesting sea turtle, call Sea Turtle Inc. immediately at 956-243-4361.

• You may contribute to the cost of medical care, food, vitamins and surgery for the turtles by donating at seaturtleinc.org.

• You may ceremonially adopt a nest or hatchling to help offset the costs and expenses related to nesting season; go to seaturtleinc.org and click on Ways to Help.

• You may enjoy unlimited admission and private info on releases by becoming a Sea Turtle Inc. member. At the Sea Turtle Inc. site, there is an education center, museum, gift shop and boardwalk where visitors can enjoy the beautiful waterways of the Laguna Madre.

“We take over 800 calls a year on our emergency response phone with reports of injured sea turtles or nesting sea turtles. These calls are critical to us and allow us to have the maximum impact on conservation on our beaches by having the community help keep a watchful eye,” says Knight.

John Spreen has been a volunteer since 2018. Being a Sea Turtle Inc. ambassador, he says, is an experience that he will always treasure, but being a nesting patrol volunteer is the ultimate achievement of volunteerism.

“When I turn left on the sand to head north and the sun is opening a new day over the Gulf of Mexico, my eyes focus on the beach looking for the tracks of the Momma Kemp’s that will lead to her disguised nest and clutch of eggs to be gathered and protected by our ultra-qualified conservation team. This is livin’ the dream for me,” says Spreen.

As the summer moves forward, Sea Turtle Inc. hosts public releases so the community can see and experience thousands of small sea turtles returning to the ocean at sunrise. Most babies hatch during the last week of June and the first week of July.

This one-of-a-kind experience is broadcast privately to Sea Turtle Inc. members first, and then is posted on social media by 6 a.m. the morning of the public release.

“Our members get a text message in the early morning hours if a nest hatches early enough to allow a public release. Members play a critical part in funding the work we do here at Sea Turtle Inc., and private text messages are just one of the many benefits being a member has,” says Knight.

Sea Turtle Inc. also operates a sea turtle hospital on the island, which is open to the public. For the price of admission, visitors may not only see the current patients, but they also can hear about the medical care and treatment underway and visit the resident sea turtles that live on site with the organization.

Wendy

Knight is the chief executive officer of Sea Turtle Inc. Wendy spent 25 years as an executive in the insurance and financial services industry before joining the non profit sector. She is a resident of South Padre Island and actively serves on the board of directors for the Chamber of Commerce and supports locally owned businesses on the island.

Top: Members of the public attend a release of hatchlings. Right: A nest immediately after hatching; between 80 and 100 hatchlings erupt from the nest in the sand at the same time.

Bottom: A Kemp’s ridley is released following successful treatment for cold-stunning.

AMERICA’S FAVORITE SEAFOOD In Crisis

Why The Wild-Caught Shrimping Industry Is Dying

STORY BY JOHN BURNETT | PHOTOS BY DENISE CATHEY

How to spot Gulf shrimp? Look for the “ridge” in a brown shrimp tail

Joe’s Oyster Bar in Port Isabel is where locals go to savor the bounty of the Gulf: flounder, black drum, red snapper, blue crab fingers, oysters. But it’s the restaurant’s shrimp that is legend. “Texas browns” with their firm shells and robust, briny flavor are widely considered one of the tastiest shrimp in the world.

“You saw ‘Forrest Gump’ and how his friend Bubba told him all the ways of preparing shrimp? The same goes for me,” says Rudy Garcia, co-author of Shrimp Tales: Port Isabel and Brownsville Shrimping History. The Port Isabel native is sitting in the noisy dining room at Joe’s before a mound of golden-fried shrimp. “I like it with eggs in the morning. I like it with rice. I like it grilled. I like it bacon wrapped. I like it fried. I like it boiled. In soup. In pasta. It goes on and on.”

Most connoisseurs of wild-caught shrimp don’t understand the world of hurt that shrimpers are in. They’ve been hit with a triple whammy: an acute shortage of deckhands, record high diesel prices and a glut of cheap, imported, farm-raised shrimp that has gutted the value of Gulf shrimp. The shrimp boat fleet at Port Isabel and the Port of Brownsville — once the largest in the world — has declined from 500 boats in the go-go days of the 1970s to about 60 boats today, say locals.

“This is an old man’s industry. Young people want nothing to do with shrimping,” Garcia says. “They don’t want to spend 60 days at sea away from their families. They don’t want to deal with the hard intensive

labor that’s involved. They just don’t want to be out there.”

E.J. “Chato” Cuevas, though, refuses to give up. His grandfather started Cuevas Trawlers in the late 1960s. This spring, when most shrimpers tied their boats up because they couldn’t make any money, Cuevas sent five trawlers across the Gulf to harvest pink shrimp off Key West.

“I came into the new year with the mentality that I wasn’t going to let anything deter us and we were going to make it work one way or another,” Cuevas says, standing on the company docks, with pelicans perched on pilings.

Cuevas, 34, a devout Catholic who puts candles for Saint Michael, the Archangel, in his wheelhouses, sees the industry’s woes in universal terms. “It’s a true test of faith for me,” he says. “Suffering is a necessity in order to triumph in the end. This is just going to make us stronger and smarter.”

Left: Cuevas Trawlers prepare a shrimp boat for its next run. Life preserver on the Mom & Dad boat. Cuevas Trawlers Co-operators Joseph Martinez and E.J. “Chato” Cuevas.

On the other hand, because fewer boats are on the water these days, those who venture out are bringing in monster hauls — up to 40,000 pounds of shrimp. After a good trip, a Cuevas vessel will ease up to the company dock, secure the ropes and the crew — captain, rig man and two headers — is beaming. “Their faces say, ‘We kicked some ass,’” Cuevas says. “‘We filled up the boat. Nobody got injured. We’re on land. Thank god.’”

Port Isabel/Brownsville was a latecomer to the shrimp business. It was after World War II when several established shrimping families from Louisiana motored down the Texas coast and discovered the deep waters of the lower Gulf teeming with big browns. The advent of powerful diesel engines; onboard freezers; lighter, stronger nets; and more precise navigation allowed the shrimping industry to dramatically expand. By the 1970s, shrimp cocktails were on menus from Boise to Buffalo.

Shrimp is far and away America’s favorite seafood. Per capita, we eat more than five pounds a year. And as long as it’s not swimming in garlic butter, shrimp is good for you. The crustacean is a rich source of protein, antioxidants and omega-3 fatty acids.

If you want to start a bar fight in any shrimpers’ tavern along the Gulf Coast, say two words: “imported shrimp.”

One ornery boat owner at the Brownsville Shrimp Basin printed up a bumper sticker: “FRIENDS DON’T LET FRIENDS EAT IMPORTED SHRIMP.”

In the 1980s, domestic shrimp accounted for half of U.S. consumption. At present, more than 90% of all shrimp consumed in America is farmed, the great majority of it coming from overseas. You must have noticed that it’s everywhere: pre-cooked in bulging sacks at the supermarket and listed on menus as an optional protein on everything from power bowls to pad thai.

“Shrimp used to be a premium, luxury product,” says Greg Londrie, vice president of Zimco Marine at the Shrimp Basin. “And when farm-raised shrimp came along, you had (foreign) companies say, ‘Hey, let’s turn shrimp

into the next chicken.’ And so we became a dumping ground for imported, farm-raised shrimp, and it has just killed us.”

Discriminating diners say farmed shrimp has a milder flavor and softer texture. Researchers caution consumers to be wary. Some foreign shrimp farms add antibiotics that are banned in the U.S. to the shallow ponds to ward off disease, and if the ponds are not well managed, they can become squalid.

Every month, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration rejects shipments of frozen foreign shrimp from countries like India and Indonesia because of the presence of antibiotics, and contaminations of salmonella and “filthy, putrid … substances,” according to FDA Import Refusal Reports. In 2015, Consumer Reports warned that the FDA tests less than 1% of foreign shrimp shipments. The watchdog group concluded that while proper cooking kills most bacteria on seafood, there are “real questions about how shrimp is raised, processed and regulated.” And while antibiotic-contaminated shrimp won’t make a diner sick, it can lead to the spread of antibiotic-resistant bacteria.

So how does a seafood lover tell the difference between wild and farmed shrimp? “It’s really tough to tell,” says Tony Reisinger, Cameron County marine extension agent, before launching into an arcane explanation of how to look for the ridges on the tails of white shrimp, the favored breed for farmers.

The best way is to ask your server. Fact is, most restaurants that serve Gulf shrimp proudly advertise it — because it’s more expensive. Wild shrimp get their appealing saltwater flavor from their natural diet of bottom-feeding worms that are rich in a group of chemicals called bromophenols.

“We try to get everything wild caught and stay away from anything farm raised,” says Louie Ornelas, owner of Cocteleria El Levanta Muertos in Brownsville. (He chose El Levanta Muertos for the name — which literally means “the raised dead” — because customers say his seafood chowder cures hangovers.) Ornelas says he could buy Chinese shrimp for $3.75 a pound versus $5.25 per pound for wild caught. “But I want my clients to get the good stuff,” he adds. “Farm-raised shrimp is pale and rubbery and has bad ingredients.”

The domestic shrimp industry has been in decline for decades, but today it faces an existential threat. Licenses for Texas shrimp boats have plunged 84% from 1988 to 2022, according to the Texas Parks & Wildlife Department. Shrimpers are selling off their boats. Crews have scattered.

“Despite wild-caught shrimp being considered a better product, the U.S. shrimp industry is on the precipice of collapse,” says Deborah Long, spokesperson for the Southern Shrimp Alliance that represents the eight U.S. shrimping states.

And with so much strongly flavored breading and sauces on restaurant shrimp these days, most people don’t know if it’s farmed or wild. And they don’t care.

The Gulf of Mexico remains a seafood cornucopia. But if economic conditions don’t improve, shrimpers say there could come a time when shrimp “that tastes like the ocean” becomes a memory.

“Despite wild-caught shrimp being considered a better product, the U.S. shrimp industry is on the precipice of collapse.”

—Deborah Long, spokesperson for the Southern Shrimp Alliance

John Burnett worked as a national correspondent for NPR for 36 years and specialized in covering the U.S.-Mexico borderlands.

Top: Zimco’s shrimp boats.

Right: Author Rudy Garcia at Joe’s Oyster Bar. Left: Louie Ornelas in front of Cocteleria Levanta Muertos in Brownsville.

Bottom: Cuevas Trawlers’ vessel, Mom & Dad

Texas Shrimp Summer Salad with Three Citrus Vinaigrette

Recipe courtesy of Texas Department of Agriculture

Serves 4

“Super fresh and clean flavors really make this salad stand out as a truly refreshing light lunch or dinner appetizer. Using fresh thyme makes a world of difference in the flavor and is worth seeking out.”

1 pound (454 g) large Texas wildcaught shrimp, peeled and fully cooked

2 grapefruits, preferably Texas Red when available

1 small mango, peeled and sliced

½ cup (65 g) San Saba pecan halves, toasted

1 cup watermelon, diced into ½-inch pieces

1 bunch watercress, trimmed and cleaned

½ cup plus two tablespoons (118 ml plus 30 ml) Three Citrus Vinaigrette (recipe follows)

Kosher salt

Black pepper, freshly ground

In a small bowl toss the shrimp with 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of Three Citrus Vinaigrette to marinate and season with a little salt and pepper.

Peel the grapefruit, removing all skin and pith. Then, using a paring knife, cut between the grapefruit membrane and remove the sections. Place them in a separate, medium-size bowl.

Add the mango, pecan halves, watermelon and watercress to the bowl with the grapefruit. Toss all the ingredients with remaining ½ cup (118 ml) of Three Citrus Vinaigrette.

Season the salad with a little salt and pepper, to taste.

Divide the salad evenly on 4 chilled plates and top with even amounts of the marinated shrimp.

Serve immediately.

Three Citrus Vinaigrette

Makes 1 cup (237 ml)

1 teaspoon (0.8 g) fresh thyme leaves, minced

2 teaspoons (9.8 ml) lemon juice, freshly squeezed

2 teaspoons (9.8 ml) lime juice, freshly squeezed

3 tablespoons (44 ml) grapefruit juice, freshly squeezed

1 shallot, peeled and minced

3 tablespoons (44 ml) honey

1 tablespoon (15 ml) Dijon mustard

⅔ cup (158 ml) Texas extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

Black pepper, freshly ground

Place shallots, thyme and juice of the lemon, lime and grapefruits in a small bowl. Add the honey and Dijon mustard and mix well.

While stirring vigorously with a wire whisk, slowly drizzle in the olive oil until it is completely incorporated.

Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

The vinaigrette will keep for up to 1 week refrigerated in a sealed container. Prior to serving, allow it to come to room temperature and whisk it vigorously.

Panko Butterfly Shrimp with Creamy Avocado Dipping Sauce

Recipe courtesy of Texas Department of Agriculture

Serves 2–3

“Crispy, crunchy and golden brown, butterflied shrimp gets battered and fried in panko, allowing the natural flavor of the shrimp to really shine through. Serve alongside the dipping sauces of your choosing, like creamy avocado, cocktail and sweet chili.”

For the shrimp:

1 pound (454 g) 16/20 shrimp, shells and tails on

1 cup (119 g) panko breadcrumbs

1 cup (120 g) all-purpose flour

1 egg

Oil

Clean the shrimp. Pat dry. While pinching the tail, peel off the shell, but leave on the tail.

Using a paring knife, make a small slit down the back of the shrimp to butterfly. For a cleaner look, remove the dark line running along the edge or through the body.

Place the flour and panko in separate bowls. Mix the egg and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of water in a separate bowl.

Place the butterflied shrimp into the flour first and shake off any excess. Then dip them into the egg wash, letting any excess egg drip back into the egg bowl.

Once the shrimp are coated with egg, place them in the panko breadcrumbs, making sure they are covered, and press lightly to get the panko to stick.

Place the fried shrimp in an air fryer or deep fryer with cooking oil. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes until done.

Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels before serving.

For the creamy avocado dipping sauce:

1 avocado

½ cup (118 ml) sour cream

Juice of 2 limes

Place the avocado, sour cream and lime juice in a blender and blend until smooth.

Thin the sauce with water until the desired consistency is reached.

Texas Ceviche

Recipe courtesy of Texas Department of Agriculture

Serves 2

“This Peruvian-style snack is made with raw fresh fish and shrimp that’s marinated in lime juice, tropical fruit and red onion and topped with cilantro. And what better way to enjoy this citrusy seafood treat than with a margarita? Cheers, y’all!”

½ pound (227 g) 16/20 shrimp, raw or, if preferred, cooked

½ pound (227 g) jumbo lump blue crab meat

½ pound (227 g) snapper, raw or, if preferred, cooked

1 cup (112 g) pineapple, diced into small chunks

1 cup (145 g) papaya, diced into small chunks

1 red onion, diced into small chunks Cilantro, chopped, for garnish

Lime juice

Tortilla chips, for serving

Prepare the shrimp and snapper. If raw, rinse, Cut the fish into bite-size chunks.

Place the fruit, red onion and all fish in a large rectangular glass dish and spread it out evenly so there is only layer. Squeeze enough lime juice over it so that all ingredients get covered.

Place the dish in the fridge for several hours to allow the ingredients to marinate in the lime juice. Every so often, mix them so the flavors continue to meld and the lime juice coats every part of the protein.

Once the ceviche is done marinating, transfer it to a serving dish. Mix well. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve with tortilla chips.

with Billy and Wanda Nichols

STORY BY JACQUELINE FOLACCI PHOTOS BY DANIELA LOERA

Mahi Nic is a hidden gem on South Padre Island run by Billy and Wanda Nichols. They are true hospitalitarians in that they have chosen to provide a positive consistent experience to every customer, and they focus on sustainability, by sourcing local ingredients and using eco-friendly disposables.

Just off the Queen Isabella Causeway to the left, Mahi Nic is located in the Sea Ranch Marina not too far from the entrance to Isla Blanca Park. The eatery’s al fresco dining lends to the casual island vibes. You can come salty, straight from the beach. The food is some of the best on the island. You can taste the freshness and the pop in flavors, and every team member delivers exceptional customer service.

I met Billy and Wanda on my first visit to Mahi Nic. I had heard whispers about the spot, great burgers, amazing fish tacos. My favorite is the iron shrimp skillet. They use local wild Gulf shrimp, one of five restaurants on the island to do so. You can get the shrimp blackened, with garlic butter or, my favorite, Peruvian style.

As the Nicholses and I sat down for our conversation, seagulls were squawking in the background. Towards the end of our interview, a Winter Texan couple wearing Sea Turtle Inc. volunteer T-shirts thanked the owners for making their stay on South Padre Island special. The duo mentioned how they loved the food, especially the burger and the frozen drinks, but most of all they appreciated the restaurant using paper straws, which are turtle friendly. They said that Mahi Nic was “the only place” they found on the island that does.

Mahi Nic is also dog friendly, and will offer your pup a water bowl and treat. As it’s boat friendly too, you may order from your boat, parked in the marina.

We asked Billy and Wanda a handful of questions to get to know them and their restaurant better.

Q: How did you get to the Rio Grande Valley?

BILLY: My parents lived down here in Port Isabel for over 30 years. We have been coming down here off and on. My dad passed away eight years ago. My mom, she was very independent and fine for several years, but we came down one Christmas and we kind of noticed, and the neighbors told us, she was getting dementia. Should we bring her to Utah [where the Nicholses were living] or [keep her] here? And that was before COVID and she was playing golf three times a week. We thought if we bring her to Utah and all the snow, she won’t get any exercise. So we sold our house, moved down here and then ended up in the restaurant business.

Q: Why did you choose to open a restaurant in the SPI Marina?

BILLY: I was in sales, sold high-end systems. I ended up needing a change. I thought I had something down here and it didn’t work the way we thought. My mom lives in Long Island Village and at 5 p.m. everyone goes to have cocktails. One night someone said, “Hey, did you hear that little restaurant on the island is for sale?” Really?

A guy named Nate actually started the restaurant. He had only been here a few months and had to go back to Michigan, and he had some kids running it. The basic part of the menu was his, but the employees would not show up for work. So people would come to eat and it was a ghost town. When we bought the restaurant, we didn’t have any formal training, We kind of tweaked the menu. Nate came down and spent a week throwing pans at us. Just kidding. He was teaching us how to cook.

WANDA: Nate had some training on how to cook fish using the blackening technique. And that is one thing he taught us: don’t bread your fish, don’t bread your shrimp. This blackening technique is the way to go, and so we kind of held on to that. He comes back every year and spends a month here on South Padre, and he sits here and kind of watches us. He tells us, “You guys are killing it.” He has been very supportive.

Q: You opened Mahi Nic a few months before the pandemic. What was that like?

BILLY: We opened in October of 2019. We had only been here a couple of months and then COVID hit. We inherited one employee, and she was a lifesaver. We could not have done it without her. For a while it was

just the three of us. We had outdoor seating. We were very lucky.

WANDA: With COVID, we took it on. Being here every night we would cut the big size mahi — we were trimming it ourselves — and we would peel our own shrimp.

BILLY: We would close at 6:30 p.m. shutdown, go home and make our dinner and then we would run to the store, buy all the fresh veggies for the next day, come back, do the basic prep for the next day, then go home at 2 or 3 a.m. and then do it again the next day. Those first two years were just …

At first no one knew we were here. And there were days when we would not even sell a Coke, nothing. And we were looking at each other and saying, “What are we doing here?” We didn’t know what we were going to do.

WANDA: We had to ease into it. There were days where we had 25 orders. And we were like, “Whoa, Look at this!” But we have held true to offer fresh every day. That’s part of it. We make everything from scratch. I think people really appreciate that. And it’s about the consistency … and customer service.

Q: What is your restaurant philosophy?

BILLY: Wanda is a real fanatic about when a dish is served. It has to look like the photo (there are photos of their dishes near the register). It’s so nice when a customer comes up and says, “Damn, this is good.” People don’t expect much since we are on the docks, and then they eat our food. We love it when they are surprised. It’s so cool.

WANDA: We work with a fish broker that we have had since we opened the restaurant. It’s important for us to get mahi as fresh as we can. We have local wild Texas Gulf shrimp. Our beef is ground fresh every morning. We go to the store every morning and hand-pick our produce. We have our burger buns, and we don’t tell anyone where we get them. That is our signature.

BILLY: Like the hot dogs — nope, that is not going to cut it. Wanda went through three different brands to try to make it right. We have a hot dog on the menu that we now call the Captain Henry. One of the local captains would come in and order a hot dog with the bacon wrap with chipotle mayo and pico de gallo. One day I said, “Let’s try it,” and we were like, “Damm, that’s good!” So we put it on the menu, and it’s named it after him.

Q: What do you like most about running a restaurant?

WANDA: We have met incredible people. The relationships that we built with the Winter Texans — we look forward to them coming back. Or a customer tells their friends and they are so proud when they tell us, “I told my friends and look who I brought with me” — new customers.

BILLY: Or they say, “My family is in town, and this is our first place.”

WANDA: The people that we meet. That to me is the most rewarding. I love that.

BILLY: Yeah.

Billy and Wanda’s favorite dishes on Mahi Nic’s menu are the mahi nachos and the shrimp tacos. Check out the rest of their offerings on Facebook. Mahi Nic is located at 33384 State Park Road 100, South Padre Island.

Market to Market

All Across the Rio Grande Valley Market Locations & Available CSAs

Brownsville

Brownsville Farmers Market

Linear Park, 1495 E. 7th St.

Saturdays 9AM-12PM brownsvillewellnesscoalition.com

@brownsvillewellnesscoalition

The Market at North Park Plaza 800 N. Expressway 77/83

Saturdays 3-7PM marketattheplaza.com info@marketattheplaza.com

Donna Heart of the Valley Farmers Market

120 S. Main St.

3rd Saturday of every month 2-5PM @heartofvalleyfm

Edinburg

Hub of Prosperity Urban Farm 3707 W. University Dr.

Saturdays 9-11AM openfoodnetwork.net

@hub_of_prosperity

Harlingen

Harlingen Farmers Market

Tyler Avenue & 2nd St.

Saturdays 3-4:30PM

Mid October-mid June harlingenfarmersmarket.com

@harlingenfarmersmarket

HOPE Farmers Market 19833 Morris Rd.

Mondays & Thursdays-Saturdays

10AM-6PM yahwehfarm.com

yahwehs.farmgarden@gmail.com

@yahwehsfarm hopeforsfs@yahoo.com hopeforsfs.org

Wild August Nursery & Flower Market 16802 Garrett Rd. October-May

Saturdays 9AM-12PM

June-September

Fridays 6-9PM wildaugust.com @themarketatwildaugust

Laguna Vista SPIGCC Community

Farmers Market

South Padre Island Golf Course 1 Ocelot Trail Rd.

1st & 3rd Tuesday of the month

4–6PM

McAllen Farm to Table Tres Lagos Farmers Market

4350 Tres Lagos Blvd.

1st Sunday of every month 2-5PM visitmcallen.com

@treslagosmcallen

Grow’n Growers

Farmers Market

Firemen’s Park, 201 N. 1st St. Saturdays 9AM-12PM visitmcallen.com

@farmersmarketatfiremenspark

McAllen Farmers Market 4001 N. 23rd St.

Saturdays 10AM-1PM mcallenfarmersmarket.com

@mcallenfarmersmarket

Mission

Neighborhood

Farmers Market

The Bryan House

1113 E. Mile 2 Rd.

Wednesdays 3-7PM thebryanhouse.com @thebryanhouse

Rancho Viejo

Rancho Viejo

Farmers Market

3301 Carmen Ave.

Every other Sunday 3–7PM ranchoviejofm.com @ranchoviejofarmersmarket

San Benito

El Pueblito Market

101 N. Reagan St.

2nd Sunday of the month

11AM-3PM elpueblitomarket956@ gmail.com

South Padre Island

South Padre Island

Farmers Market

8605 Padre Blvd. Sundays 11AM-1PM sopadre.com

Weslaco

La Cebollita Mid-Valley

Farmers Market

Weslaco City Hall

255 S. Kansas Ave.

Last Saturday of every month

11AM-2PM @weslaco_chamber weslaco.com

Available CSAs in the RGV CSA, or Community Supported Agriculture (CSA), is one way consumers can directly support local farms. You connect directly with the farmer, and every week your farmer delivers or you can pick up a variety of fresh nutritious food. All CSAs have different financial structures and procedures, so we suggest you reach out to the CSA for more information.

CD&J Mini Ranch

Offers a produce CSA

Meat and egg CSA

29575 Adams Rd., San Benito cdjminiranch.com

@cdjminiranch_woman_owned

Nature’s Heartland Farm

Offers produce and eggs

11920 N. Mile 16, Edinburg Saturdays 10AM-4PM heartlandfarm.com @naturesheartland

Sentli Center for Regenerative Agriculture

Offers produce CSA from Participants: Terra Preta Farm, Food Bank RGV, Vida Farms, The Hour Farm & Sunshine’s Bounty. Contact Shakera Raygoza to sign up,  956-472-7436

Valley Green Growers

Cooperative (VGG)

Offers fresh produce and protein boxes CSA

19833 Morris Rd., Harlingen vggcoop@hopeforsfs.org

Parchment-Wrapped, Oven-Baked Halibut with Olive Relish

Recipe by Blake Angelos, chef at VIVA, Spi Serves 4

“I love that it takes very little time to prep and that it is easy to make for large parties. It’s perfect for summer due to the extremely light nature of the ingredients. The olive relish is extremely versatile, goes great with fish and chicken. An easy recipe to tweak to your liking.”

4 6-ounce (170 g) filets halibut

4 sheets parchment paper, with 3 inches (7½ cm) trimmed off one end

Olive oil

Salt and pepper

For the relish:

1 cup (30 g) red onion, very thinly sliced

1 tablespoon (10 g) shallot, very thinly sliced

1 cup (200 g) Castelvetrano olives, cut in half

½ cup (156 g) sundried tomatoes, jarred in oil

⅛ cup (10 g) fresh parsley, finely chopped

½ tablespoon (7 g) fresh dill, roughly chopped

1 small bunch fresh chives, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon (7 g) salt

Juice of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons (30 ml) red wine vinegar

½ cup (118 ml) olive oil

4 wedges lemon, for garnish

Preheat oven to 375° F.

Dry fish filets with a paper towel. Place each in the center of one of the trimmed parchment paper pieces.

Drizzle fish with olive oil (about 2 tablespoons).

Season with salt and pepper.

For one filet, bring together 2 corners on left side of parchment paper. Moving to the right, begin to fold and seal fish in the “bag,” similar to closing and shaping a “paper empanada.” Repeat with remaining 3 filets.

Place all of the wrapped fish on a large sheet tray and bake about 12 to 14 minutes or until perfectly fork flaky.

Prepare the relish by combining everything together in a mixing bowl. Mix well and season with salt and pepper to your liking.

Keep relish cold until ready to be served. (Relish can be made ahead of time.)

When fish is done baking, remove from the oven. With each filet, using a sharp knife, slit a large cross in one side of the parchment paper.

Place fish on serving plates and top each portion with 2 large spoonfuls of the olive relish.

Splash each portion with one last swirl of olive oil. Serve with a lemon wedge on the side.

Photo by Daniela Loera

White Bean and Spanish Chorizo Salad

Recipe by Eugenio Uribe, executive chef at Boqueron Tapas + Wine, Brownsville Serves 8

“When we opened Boqueron I wanted to offer something hearty but still fresh. I’ve been working with this bean farm in California that grows heirloom beans, and they are so creamy and nutty. I wanted it to still resemble in a way Spanish food, so I added the chorizo and a sherry vinaigrette to brighten the heavier flavors of the salad.

You can also serve the salad with a grilled pork chop or grilled fish like grouper or salmon on top. I hope everyone enjoys this during the hot Valley summer.”

For the Seasoned Spanish White Beans:

2 cups (360 g) dry Spanish white beans, soaked overnight

1 large onion, cut in half

1 celery stick, cut into 3 pieces

½ carrot, cut in half

5 cloves garlic

4 bay leaves

1 sprig of fresh thyme

Soak beans, uncovered, at room temperature, overnight.

In a large pot, place the soaked beans, onion, celery, carrot, garlic, bay leaves and thyme. Cover with cold water. Do not salt water.

Simmer over low heat until tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. Once fully cooked, season with salt, drain well and discard vegetables. Cover beans and cool in the refrigerator.

For the Spanish Chorizo Salad: Seasoned Spanish White Beans (recipe above)

Extra virgin olive oil

1 large onion, diced into small pieces

4 celery stalks, diced into small pieces

½ link spicy or sweet Spanish chorizo, peeled and cut into ¼-inch rounds*

Sherry Vinaigrette (recipe follows)

*For a vegetarian version, substitute 6–8 roasted piquillo or red bell peppers, julienned, for the chorizo

Coat a pan with extra virgin olive oil. Cook onion and celery over medium heat for 5 to 7 minutes or until the onions are translucent. Season with salt. Transfer to a plate and refrigerate to cool.

To assemble the salad, place the prepared and chilled white beans, onion-celery mixture, and chorizo or peppers in a large bowl. Mix together.

Drizzle half the vinaigrette on top. Season with salt and pepper.

Notes: All preparation can be done in advance. Salad will last up to 5 days in the refrigerator.

Sherry Vinaigrette

½ cup (119 ml) aged sherry vinegar

½ cup (119 ml) extra virgin olive oil

½ shallot, minced

2 tablespoons (30 ml) smoked garlic oil (recipe follows)

Salt and pepper

Place all ingredients in a bowl, mix and season. Add more salt if needed.

Smoked Garlic Oil

2 cups (473 ml) vegetable or grapeseed oil

½ cup (67.7 g) whole cloves garlic, peeled

Set the smoker temperature at 350° F. Place oil and garlic cloves in a deep metal container.

Put the loaded container in the smoker. Smoke for at least 25 to 30 minutes or until garlic cloves are golden brown and very soft.

Cool oil at room temperature then transfer to a glass or plastic container with a lid.

Store at room temperature for up to 2 weeks or in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.

Photo by Daniela Loera

Vegan Carlota de Limón

Recipe by Amanda Nolan, baker and owner of Sweet Craft Vegan, Brownsville Serves 10

“I think it’s a really great summer dessert because you don’t even need to turn on your oven to make it, and it’s eaten cold so it’s very refreshing. This vegan version is great because you can make it in the traditional way with Maria cookies. If you’re looking for a healthier snack, you can use any other cookie or cracker you’d like and any sweetener you prefer. It can be made in a cake pan and served as dessert at a fancy dinner, or you can even make it in containers or togo cups and take them with you in a cooler to the pool or beach for a refreshing snack on a hot day.”

16 ounces (454 g) silken or soft tofu

½ cup (100 g) cane sugar or other sweetener

⅓ cup (79 ml) almond milk (soy will also work)

⅓-½ cup lime juice, freshly squeezed

Zest of 1 lime plus more for garnish

2-3 sleeves vegan Maria cookies or 1 box Graham crackers

Lime wheels, for garnish

Notes: Any other premade vegan cookie will work, including Biscoff, and even saltine or club crackers. I also like using galletas populares or barras de coco, which are both vegan.

If using crackers instead of cookies, I recommend increasing the amount of sugar in the recipe to taste, up to 1 cup (200 g).

The dessert can be made with any type of citrus.

This recipe makes enough for an 8-by-8-inch square pan or 8- to 9-inch round pan. It can also be made in ramekins for individual servings.

Line your pan or dish with parchment paper for easy removal.

Blend the tofu, milk, sweetener and zest in a blender. While the blender is running, pour in the lime juice gradually and blend until combined and slightly thick. It will thicken more as it sits.

Pour some of the blended mixture into the dish you’ll be making the Carlota in, enough to evenly coat the bottom with a thin layer. If it has already started to thicken, spread it with a spoon or spatula.

Over the cream, gently place a layer of cookies without pushing down on them. On top of the cookies, pour another layer of cream to cover them. Repeat this process until you use all of the cream. Refrigerate overnight or at least 4 to 5 hours before serving.

Keep refrigerated and serve cold. Top with lime zest and lime wheels for decoration or any fresh fruit you prefer.

Photo by Daniela Loera

RECIPES BY CHRISTOPHER GALICIA, COCKTAIL AND SPIRITS DIRECTOR AT LAS RAMBLAS, BROWNSVILLE

“Shorts, sundresses and spritzes … three things absolutely crucial to any summer season in the Rio Grande Valley! The Spritz is a cocktail that dates back to the 1800s and originates in the Veneto region of Italy. Originally composed of wine and water, the spritz cocktail has evolved into a delicious drink containing white wine, predominantly sparkling, an apéertif/amaro/liqueur and sparkling water of some type. Most popular of the spritz family is the Aperol Spritz which contains the apéritif Aperol, Prosecco and sparkling water. Salud!”

Rosolio Spritz

Makes 1 drink

3 ounces (89 ml) dry sparkling rosé

1 ounce (30 ml) Lillet Rosé

1 ounce (30 ml) Aperol

1 ounce (30 ml) sparkling water

1 slice grapefruit, for garnish

Fill a wine glass with ice. Pour in the Lillet Rosé and Aperol. Add 3 ounces (89 ml) of dry sparkling rosé and top off with the sparkling water. Stir to incorporate, garnish with a grapefruit slice and enjoy!

Spritz di Bergamotto

Makes 1 drink

3 ounces (89 ml) dry sparkling wine

2 ounces (59 ml) Italicus Rosolio Bergamot Liqueur

1 ounce (30 ml) sparkling water

1 lemon, for garnish

Fill an old fashioned glass with ice. Pour in the Italicus Rosolio Bergamot Liqueur. Add the dry sparkling wine and top off with the sparkling water. Stir to incorporate, express lemon oils over the cocktail, drop lemon swath in cocktail and enjoy!

Spritz de Fleur

Makes 1 drink

3 ounces (89 ml) dry sparkling wine

1½ ounces (45 ml) Cocchi Americano

½ ounce (15 ml) elderflower liqueur

1 ounce (30 ml) tonic water

Chamomile buds, for garnish

Fill a brandy snifter with ice. Pour in the Cocchi Americano and elderflower liqueur. Add the dry sparkling wine and top off with the tonic water. Stir to incorporate, garnish with chamomile buds and enjoy!

Photo by Daniela Loera