Our Fall issue has introduced me to many new things about the Rio Grande Valley, from ingredients to cook with, to new hobbies to explore, to places worth visiting. I never would’ve imagined that birding would become a passion of mine, but spotting a beautiful bird while on a walk has turned into a soothing experience.
Living in an area where various birds come to nest or forage is truly a blessing. In this issue, Erica Barrera highlights how special our area is for birdwatching during fall migration and how we can support these travelers on their long journey. My family and I followed her advice and provided a place for them in our yard to rest and feed during their long trip.
While exploring La Sal del Rey on a hot August day, the beauty of nature in our valley struck me. A red cardinal perched on a mesquite tree, cactus growing freely in all directions and the expansive salt lake in the distance made for a breathtaking scene. It was my first time experiencing this spiritual connection with nature. The breeze kept me cool at sunset, though I’d suggest visiting after a cold front. I witnessed the salt crystals forming and saw families enjoying the natural splendor. Melissa Guerra’s story resonated with me, as there’s a palpable sense of history along this stretch of State Highway 186 that you can feel when you’re by the lake.
Black garlic, which I’d first heard about during my time in New York City but never tried, was delightfully surprising to find in the RGV. Its flavor is complex — sweet, tangy and rich with hints of garlic. I spread it on toast, and it was fantastic! Incorporating it into recipes adds depth and will certainly spark conversation at your next dinner party. The Trumans take great pride in producing this unique ingredient for the Valley.
In our recipes, we wanted to capture the essence of fall with seasonal ingredients and flavors like pumpkin, sweet potato, cinnamon and other baking spices. We put together a perfect dinner party menu: Salt Baked Red Snapper as the main course, Pumpkin Cavatelli as a side or mid-course, Maple Glazed Sweet Potatoes as a complementary dish, and Pumpkin Fig Loaf from Semilla Coffee Lab as the dessert. All these dishes pair deliciously with the Hayride cocktail featured in Last Sip. We’d love to see photos of you making and enjoying these recipes with friends and family.
I’m writing this just as Texas Highways magazine has released its September issue, celebrating all things RGV. I’m proud of the work we’re doing to highlight the unique aspects of our region and our pride in living here. We couldn’t achieve this without our loyal advertisers, and we welcome new ones in this issue. Please visit and support these local and small businesses, and let them know you saw their ad in our magazine.
Happy Fall!
Jacqueline Folacci Publisher
Edible Rio Grande Valley is published quarterly. Subscribe and have it delivered right to your door. You can subscribe online at edibleriograndevalley.com or mail a check for $28 to: 415 Calle Retama, Brownsville, Texas 78520.
PUBLISHER
Jacqueline Folacci
EDITOR
Letty Fernandez
CONTRIBUTORS
Erica Barrera
Sammy Jo Cienfuegos
Ximena Díaz
Mia Eustaquio
Melissa Guerra
Eugenio Uribe
Jen Valdez
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Daniela Loera
Horacio Martinez
Selene Shores
Elias Tamez
Cynthia Torres
LAYOUT DESIGN
Matthew and Tina Freeman
COPY EDITORS
Doresa Banning
Cristina Tijerina
ADVERTISING
advertise@edibleriograndevalley.com
CONTACT US hola@ediblergv.com
TO SUBSCRIBE
Visit us online at edibleriograndevalley.com edible Rio Grande Valley is published quarterly by GC Publishing LLC. Subscription rate is $28 annually.
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RGV MEAT PRODUCERS’ COOPERATIVE is a new organization making every effort possible to bring a USDA certified slaughterhouse and meat processing center to deep South Texas.
Choose and take a survey to learn more or get involved! Connect with us: rgvmeatproducerscoop@gmail.com
Why Salt Belonged to the King
STORY BY MELISSA GUERRA
The Rio Grande Valley is uniquely defined by diverse bodies of water. On our eastern coastline is the Gulf of Mexico, an ocean basin shared by Brownsville, Cancun, Havana and Miami. The Rio Grande is the southern border of our four-county region as well as the international border between the U.S. and Mexico. Scattered underneath our soil is a series of underground “norias,” or artesian wells, which were accessed by early Indigenous tribes and Spanish colonists in our semi-arid environment.
We even have a natural salt lake north of Edinburg, near the cattle ranching community of San Manuel. Known as
La Sal del Rey or “the salt of the king,” this lake was a hub for ancient tribal activity and played an important role in Spanish colonial history.
When I was a young passenger in the family station wagon, I remember seeing the salt lake shimmering beyond the heavy green brush as we drove towards Raymondville. In those days, La Sal del Rey was on private property. Nowadays, the lake is part of the Lower Rio Grande Valley National Wildlife Refuge. It’s a favorite hiking spot for my kids and their friends. This salt lake never fails to amaze visitors in its size, a mile long and five miles around. Most of the comments I have heard over the years have been, “Gee, I didn’t even know this was here.”
Left: Aerial view of La Sal del Rey. Opposite page top left: Sign on TX-186 at the historical marker for La Sal del Rey. Lower Right: From the late 1940s in the Larry Wingert collection at the Museum of South Texas History archive.
Photo courtesy of Elias Tamez
These days, the salt lake is quiet, with the exception of families and day trippers who hike 30 minutes down a mesquite- and cactus-lined path to see this natural phenomenon. But 300 years ago, La Sal del Rey and its sister La Sal Vieja (“the old salt lake”) were highly significant natural resources in Rio Grande Valley.
We don’t know what the salt lakes were named before Spanish colonists arrived, but we know they were important. Water levels in the lakes rise and fall, leaving crystalized crusts of salt to dry in the sun. Once collected, the natural salt can be used to preserve meats and process animals hides into leather.
Aside from salt’s value as a preservative and processing chemical, the lake itself still attracts white-tailed deer, racoons, opossums and javalinas as a salt lick, making the area around the salt lake a densely populated wildlife habitat. Archeological evidence, such as arrowheads and stone tools, shows that tribes camped at the salt lakes. Fresh meat from a successful hunting expedition could have been salted, dried in the hot sun and preserved on the spot.
But how could a salt lake located in Texas be claimed by a Spanish king over 5,000 miles away?
In the year 1492, when King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella agreed to pay for Columbus’ journey to the New World, the understanding was that the royal couple would receive a return on their investment. They believed Columbus would find gold, silver, pearls and jewels.
However, unlike the gold nuggets and silver bars that we see in the movies, most gold and silver deposits exist in ore, a natural rock that contains various types of minerals and occasionally precious metals.
“This salt lake never fails to amaze visitors in its size. Most of the comments I have heard over the years have been, ‘Gee, I didn’t even know this was here.’”
The extraction process for separating the silver or gold from the ore required salt. Without salt, there was no gold or silver to send back to Spain.
In order for Ferdinand, Isabella and their royal Spanish successive heirs to get their gold and silver, their royal agents in the New World first needed to claim any and all salt supplies.
If you are interested in a deeper historical dive on how the King of Spain could legally claim the salt in New Spain (aka Texas,) research the life of Francisco Xavier de Gamboa, an attorney who published Comentarios a las Ordenanzas de Minas (Comments on Mining Ordinances) in 1761. In his commentary, Gamboa defended the existing framework
based on the Royal Mining Ordinances of 1584 including the assumption that the Spanish government owned all the subsurface minerals in Spanish territory (aka New Spain, aka Texas.) Private property owners’ rights were secondary to the royal ownership of undiscovered treasures hidden below the dirt.
Texas oil and gas law is still based on these early Spanish mineral ownership laws dating back to 1584. When Mexico ceded claims to Texas after the Mexican-American War ended in 1848, all mineral rights, from salt to petroleum, were relinquished to the private property owners.
When you visit the La Sal del Rey, the salt lake will appear quietly on the horizon as you hike the peaceful path to get there. Remember that the Spanish crown’s claim of ownership of the salt there was not just for a culinary ingredient; it was for the untold wealth of the New World.
La Sal del Rey is open year-round. For directions and information, visit the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service website at fws.gov.
Melissa Guerra is an eighth-generation Texan, born, raised and currently living on a cattle ranch in South Texas. She loves food and is a self-taught culinary expert, food historian and cookbook author. She has spent years learning the food ways of the American continent, especially Texas, regional Mexican and Latin American cuisine. She is an active food blogger and has a food history podcast on YouTube. Follow her at kitchenwrangler.com.
Left: Sky reflection on salt lake. Right: Texas State Historical Marker. Bottom: Mounds of salt.
Photos courtesy of author’s family
What’s In Season
September – November
Plant
All Season
Beans
Bok choy Broccoli Carrots Cauliflower Cilantro Fennel Green onions Kale Kohlrabi Lettuce Melons
Mustard greens Parsley Radishes Squash
Swiss chard Turnips Zucchini
Harvest
September and October
Cantaloupes Honeydew melons
November
Beets October and November
Beans Bell peppers Bok choy Carrots Chili peppers
Only September
Bell peppers Brussels sprouts
Only October Cabbage
September and October
Chili peppers Cucumbers
October and November
Field peas Mustard greens Oranges Radishes Spinach Squash
Sweet peppers Tomatoes Zucchini
Cilantro Cucumbers Kale
Lettuce Mustard greens Oranges Radishes Squash
Sweet peppers Tomatoes Zucchini
BLACK GARLIC!
All the Rage at PW Farm
STORY BY SAMMY JO CIENFUEGOS | PHOTOS BY JACQUELINE FOLACCI
Debby and David Truman on their farm in San Benito where they make their black garlic.
Sharing a meal with loved ones is a sacred celebration — of love, life and sustenance. This divine ritual is made even sweeter when the food shared is as nourishing as it is delicious. I have visited various farmers’ markets searching for new ingredients to incorporate into my diet and brainstorming new meals to create.
On one of my trips to a local farmers’ market, I met Debby and David Truman, owners of PW Farm in San Benito, where they have been implementing sustainable and holistic practices for fourteen years. On their farm, you will find chickens, holland lop rabbits, pekin ducks, turkeys, two chihuahuas, two blue heelers, honey bees and the elusive black garlic. These two sweet people sell many items, such as fresh chicken, quail and duck eggs, adorable bunny rabbits and of course, their black garlic. This is garlic that has been cured and fermented, which gives it a different flavor, texture and color.
“We wanted to offer something different for people,” Debby explains. “Everyone who has tried it likes it. You really experience the black garlic throughout four of your five senses. It looks different than your classic garlic, feels and smells different, and of course tastes different, too.”
I still remember the first time I tasted the Trumans’ black garlic hummus. Nothing I had ever tried before came close to the slightly nutty, sweet yet tangy flavor. If I could compare the flavor and texture of black garlic to anything, it would be a dried date with a rich, savory flavor — very similar to balsamic vinegar.
“People are very amazed when they taste it,” says David. “Some people think we add something to make it sweet, but no, it’s just the process changing the composition of the white garlic. It’s something very different and unique.”
“We wanted to offer something different for people. Everyone who has tried it likes it. You really experience the black garlic throughout four of your five senses. It looks different than your classic garlic, feels and smells different, and of course tastes different, too.”
PERSEVERANCE AND SWEET, SWEET FERMENTATION
PW Farm is a pioneer in the black garlic world, as in the Rio Grande Valley, many hadn’t been exposed to such a delicacy. The Trumans were “the only ones in the game” when they first started back in 2010, David shares.
Creating black garlic is a unique process, one that took Dave a few years to perfect. Whole garlic cloves are cured in a humid environment for several weeks. After enough heat, the cloves are then cooled down and fermented. “They have to age and settle on their own. It’s just heat and time,” adds David.
It’s a natural process that requires consistent monitoring over one to two months. “It’s similar to wine where you are constantly checking on it to make sure it’s good. If something goes wrong on the last day of the process, the entire batch will go bad. You either persevere or give up. There’s a lot of heartache involved in this business.”
Despite the challenges in developing black garlic, the Trumans remain dedicated to offering it so people may experience the health benefits said to come from the vegetable. Both Debby and David have experienced improvements to their overall well-being, they say, and have received plenty of similar positive feedback from their customers as well.
Black garlic contains more antioxidants than raw garlic, due to the aging process that converts allicin to antioxidants, according to the National Institutes of Health. Along with providing the many benefits of antioxidants, black garlic may help regulate blood sugar, reduce the risk of heart disease and improve brain and liver health.
Black garlic is a perfect balance of sweet and savory and has a soft, delicate texture. It can be used as a spread or in dips, stir fries, soups, rice platters, you name it. It is best to add the vegetable after a dish is completely cooked, says Debby.
Given its delectable flavor and reported health benefits, it is obvious why the Trumans care so deeply about sharing black garlic with the community.
Visit rgvblackgarlic.com for recipes and products.
Sammy Jo Cienfuegos is a freelance journalist and the development manager for the Moody Clinic in Brownsville. In her spare time, she enjoys reading, writing poetry and caring for her 4-yearold shih tzu Ollie.
Bulbs of black garlic.
Black Garlic Wild Mushroom Soup
Recipe courtesy of afamilyfeast.com
Serves 8−10
“This soup is very earthy, delicious and heart healthy with the black garlic and the mushrooms. It is such a really nice soup that warms your heart and your body.”
6 tablespoons (85 g) butter
1 cup (160 g) onions, diced
2 teaspoons (11.4 g) kosher salt
1 teaspoon (2.3 g) freshly ground black pepper
½ cup (60 g) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon (3.4 g) fresh thyme leaves, removed from stems
1 large bay leaf
2 quarts (1.9 l) vegetable broth, homemade or store-bought
2 pounds (780 g) mushrooms, coarsely chopped or sliced
2 tablespoons (28.4 g) PW Farm’s black garlic, sliced
1 cup (236.6 ml) heavy cream
¼ cup (6.25 g) loosely packed fresh basil
¼ cup (6.25 g) loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley
In a large Dutch oven or heavy bottomed pot, melt butter over medium heat and add onions. Sauté onions for a full 10 minutes, stirring often. They will begin to brown.
Keep heat at medium and add salt, pepper, flour, thyme and bay leaf. Stir to create a roux. Cook the roux for 4 minutes, stirring often.
Add the vegetable broth, ⅓ at a time, whisking as you add. Once all of the roux and broth are combined and the mixture is creamy, add the mushrooms and garlic. Bring to a slight boil, reduce to a medium simmer. Cook for 15 minutes, stirring often so it does not stick to the bottom. Remove and discard the bay leaf.
Add cream and heat just to get the soup back to temperature. Add the fresh basil and parsley. Using an immersion or regular blender, purée the mixture until creamy.
Adjust salt and pepper to taste as needed and serve.
Getting Ready for the Fall Bird Migration
STORY BY ERICA BARRERA
BY SELENE SHORES AND HORACIO MARTINEZ
Putting out food and water for the Rio Grande Valley’s spectacular bird life is always a win-win but especially during migration periods. The Valley is deeply important for birds and bird lovers. In fact, birders from all over the world travel to glimpse our birds, many of which Valley residents enjoy from the comfort of our own backyards. Why? Our location is key, along a migratory corridor where two major bird flyways converge. Plus, we are next to the Gulf of Mexico and relatively near the Tropics.
As a result, about 50% of all the bird species in the U.S. can be found right here at some point in the year. And some can only be found in the Valley’s subtropical habitats, like the Altamira oriole and plain chachalaca, while the green jay’s northern range ends in deep South Texas.
FALL IS A SPECIAL TIME
Our bird watching is exceptional year-round but fall migration (roughly August through mid-November) is when millions upon millions of birds will be flying into, out of, or through the Valley. They will be looking for extra energy and nutrients to help them complete or recover from their journeys. During migration, your backyard bird feeding can make a real difference.
Pro Tip: Use the BirdCast Migration Dashboard at dashboard.birdcast.info to see photos of each day’s most common species in the area, so you know what to look for.
PHOTOS
Cardinal feeding on brown tray. Opposite page, top row, left to right: Altamira oriole, ruby-throated hummingbird, yellow-rumped warbler; Middle row: green jay, painted bunting, Baltimore oriole; Bottom row: black-crested titmouse, great kiskadee, cardinal.
Buff-bellied hummingbird at feeder tray.
BIRDS ARE GOOD FOR US
• Mental health: Research shows birdsong reduces anxiety and irrational thoughts, and that seeing or hearing birds can boost well-being for up to eight hours.
• Plants and crops: Many bird species spread seeds in their droppings, and some even pollinate flowering plants.
• Pest control: Many birds eat various species of insects, and some even eat mosquitoes.
• The economy: Wildlife-watching Americans, the majority being bird watchers, spend billions on their trips.
YOU CAN HELP
Did you know the Valley Land Fund estimates that “less than 5% of the original native habitat remains” here? You can help turn that around. Here’s how:
Dial Up Your Bird Curb Appeal
You do not need a large yard or even a lot of money to make your home — or workplace — an inviting stopover for birds.
Small Budget
• Stick half an orange on a tree branch to feed orioles, or smear peanut butter on tree bark for woodpeckers.
• Find instructions online from the Texas Parks & Wildlife Department or other reputable sources to make feeders from old milk jugs, jars or spare wood.
Small Spaces
• Some hummingbird and seed feeders can stick to a window or glass door with suction cups.
• Hang a feeder from a wall, post, deck or balcony using a bracket or hanger arm with a hook.
• Choose a suet feeder if you want to avoid spilled seed.
our scorching summer heat. Then visit local nurseries that specialize in native plants because many birds and insect pollinators rely on native plants, trees and shrubs. Also, natives are typically easier to maintain — another win-win.
CREATING A BIRD FEEDER
Find these items at specialty wild bird feeding stores, feed stores, hardware stores and the like.
The Basics
Your main feeder: Look for a hopper or a tube feeder that fits several birds at once, holds enough seed for two to three days, is easy to fill and clean and is durable.
Going Bigger
If you can, create one or more bird-feeding stations. Add a water source, such as a birdbath or water feature, to help mitigate
Shepherd’s hook: Use a tall, sturdy shepherd’s hook to hang your feeder in a spot you can see and access easily, with 10 feet of clearance all around to prevent window strikes and deter squirrels and cats. Birds prefer having trees/shrubs or a fence nearby for cover or perching. (You can also place a feeder within 3 feet of a window, where birds generally won’t pick up enough speed to get hurt.)
All-purpose bird food: A blend of sunflower, safflower and peanuts will attract a variety of birds.
Birdbath or fountain: Water helps sustain and attract birds, especially if it is moving (which also prevents mosquitoes).
Next Level
Tray/platform feeders: These are fun for watching birds going for special foods like peanuts or mealworms. Suet feeders: These cages hold blocks or balls of high energy that give migrating birds a needed boost, but also attract birds year-round.
Hummingbird feeders: Choose one with red accents and that’s built to deter insects. Specialty feeders and feed: These can help attract — or deter — certain birds. For example, weight-sensitive feeders close off to pigeons and squirrels. Finch feeders are designed to hold the tiny Nyjer seeds they love.
Squirrel baffles: These prevent squirrels from climbing up a pole or leaping onto a feeder.
Pro Tip: Read Seed Ingredients — Avoid Fillers
Stay away from bargain seed blends, which often use milo (sorghum), red millet, flax and wheat to fill up the bag. Birds generally kick that stuff to the ground, which leaves a mess, attracts rodents and wastes your money. If the seed is moldy, do not buy or use it.
DIY HUMMINGBIRD NECTAR
Simply dissolve 1 part white table sugar into 4 parts hot water. Cool before using, then refrigerate the rest. Discard after a week or so. Replace the nectar in your feeders every couple of days to prevent bacteria and mold. Don’t add red dye (natural nectar is clear) or extra sugar, and don’t use honey, raw sugar or sugar substitutes. During fall migration, your feeders may attract ruby-throated hummingbirds, rufous hummingbirds, black-chinned hummingbirds or even rarer species.
MORE WAYS TO HELP VALLEY BIRDS
• Turn off or dim outside lights to avoid confusing birds, most of which migrate at night.
• Wait until spring to cut back plants. These can provide perches or cover for birds, while seed heads can be food sources.
• Clean feeders and change birdbath water regularly to prevent disease.
• Learn how to prevent bird strikes on your windows.
• Keep your cat indoors as much as possible, and consider attaching a small bell or cat bib to its collar.
Don’t miss out on the Valley’s spectacular fall bird migration this year. With a few simple steps, you can help support our amazing bird life and bring more color and joy to your backyard.
Barrera is a birdwatcher and lives in McAllen. She is the owner of the Wild Birds Unlimited store there, which is a locally owned national franchise that brings people and nature together through bird feeding, native gardening, birdwatching and community outreach.
Birding Hotspots
AROUND THE RGV
Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley State Park* (Mission)
City of Brownsville Landfill (Brownsville)
Edinburg Scenic Wetlands* (Edinburg)
Estero Llano Grande State Park* (Weslaco)
Frontera Audubon Society Nature Preserve (Weslaco)
Harlingen Arroyo Colorado* (Harlingen)
Hugh Ramsey Nature Park (Harlingen)
Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Refuge (Los Fresnos)
La Sal del Rey (Edinburg)
McAllen Nature Center (McAllen)
National Butterfly Center (Mission)
Old Hidalgo Pumphouse Museum* (Hidalgo)
Quinta Mazatlan* (McAllen)
Resaca de la Palma State Park* (Brownsville)
Roma Bluffs* (Roma)
Sabal Palm Sanctuary (Brownsville)
Salineño Project** (Salineño)
Santa Ana National Wildlife Refuge (Alamo)
South Padre Island Birding and Nature Center* (South Padre Island)
South Padre Island Migratory Bird Sanctuary** (South Padre Island)
South Texas Ecotourism Center (Laguna Vista)
Valley Nature Center (Weslaco)
*Part of the World Birding Center, a network of nine parks and nature preserves
** Part of Valley Land Fund’s conservation efforts
77 Farmers Market Bannworth Park 1822 N. Shary Rd. Sundays 2-4:30PM buenavida77gardens.com 512-554-9713
Neighborhood Farmers Market
The Bryan House 1113 E. Mile 2 Rd. Wednesdays 3-7PM thebryanhouse.com @thebryanhouse
Primera
Primera Market City Hall, 22893 Stuart Place Rd.
3rd Thursday of the month 4:30–7:30PM (956) 423-9654 or ecavazos@primeratx.gov
Rancho Viejo
Rancho Viejo Farmers Market 3301 Carmen Ave. Every other Sunday 3-6PM ranchoviejofm.com @ranchoviejofarmersmarket
San Benito
El Pueblito Market
101 N. Reagan St. 2nd Saturday of the month 11AM-3PM elpueblitomarket956@ gmail.com
South Padre Island South Padre Island Farmers Market 8605 Padre Blvd. Sundays 11AM-1PM sopadre.com
Weslaco
La Cebollita Mid-Valley Farmers Market
Weslaco City Hall 255 S. Kansas Ave. Last Saturday of every month 11AM-2PM @weslaco_chamber weslaco.com
Available CSAs in the RGV CSA, or Community Supported Agriculture (CSA), is one way consumers can directly support local farms. You connect directly with the farmer, and every week your farmer delivers or you can pick up a variety of fresh nutritious food.
All CSAs have different financial structures and procedures, so we suggest you reach out to the CSA for more information.
CD&J Mini Ranch Offers a produce CSA Meat and egg CSA 29575 Adams Rd., San Benito cdjminiranch.com @cdjminiranch_woman_owned
Nature’s Heartland Farm Offers produce and eggs 11920 N. Mile 16, Edinburg Saturdays 10AM-4PM heartlandfarm.com @naturesheartland
Sentli Center for Regenerative Agriculture Offers produce CSA from Participants: Terra Preta Farm, Food Bank RGV, Vida Farms, The Hour Farm & Sunshine’s Bounty. Contact Shakera Raygoza to sign up, 956-472-7436
Valley Green Growers Cooperative (VGG) Offers fresh produce and protein boxes CSA 19833 Morris Rd., Harlingen vggcoop@hopeforsfs.org
Please send updates to letty@ediblergv.com
Eat & Buy Local Market Place
We are a Latino inspired, award winning frozen dessert novelty manufacturer. Our founder, Gerardo Alcazar, is a 5th generation descendant of a paletero bloodline. We have infused tradition and authentic premium natural ingredients to create tasteful flavors that are a creamy memorable experience. For us, it’s important to represent our culture and tradition through our flavors, textures and colors.
Nadia Casaperalta , chef, culinary arts lecturer at South Texas College and contributor to Edible Rio Grande Valley, was one of 15 chefs selected to participate in the 26th James Beard Foundation Chef Bootcamp for Policy and Change.
For 12 years, this program has trained and inspired culinary leaders from across the country to mobilize in support of policy decisions that impact our food system.
Casaperalta was one of two chefs from Texas who participated in the program held at the Glynwood Center for Regional Food and Farming in Cold Spring, N.Y.
Chris J. Galicia had one of his cocktail recipes, Cameron Park Spritz, featured in imbibe, a national spirits and cocktail magazine, in the summer.
The mezcal and St. Germain in this drink play their roles perfectly to produce a deliciously bold floral spritz, says Galicia. He named the cocktail after Cameron Park, a Brownsville neighborhood.
Galicia is the beverage director and junior partner with Las Ramblas Hospitality Group. Most days you can find him behind the bar at Le Rêve, a French-American restaurant. It’s the group’s newest addition, joining Las Ramblas Lounge and Boqueron Tapas + Wine, in downtown Brownsville. Cheers to Chris!
Twenty-five years after opening her first restaurant, Sylvia Casares, of Sylvia’s Enchilada Kitchen, is now packaging her signature sauces for sale.
The Sylvia’s Signature Sauce collection features a trio of sauces — Sylvia’s Salsa, Salsa Verde and Enchilada Chili Gravy — all in 16-ounce jars. They are available at her Houston restaurants and will be sold in select food stores later this year.
Brownsville born and raised Casares is is partnering on this project with Gourmet Cuisine Inc., a French-owned company with operations in Dallas, and Generations in Jars in Houston.
SIP & S AV OR THE FL AV OR S
NO M A T TER THE TIM E , NO M A T TER THE D A Y , BR O W NS V ILLE IS THE P L A CE T O T A S TE THE BE S T F L A V ORS THE RIO GRANDE V ALL E Y HAS T O OFFER .
W h et h er y ou’ r e loo k i n g f or a spot t o get bru n c h a n d mi m osas, or y ou’ r e on t h e hunt f or t h e best t a c os in t h e ci t y, B r o wn s ville is h o m e t o ma n y unique a n d delicious f ood + b e v e r a ge e xpe r ie n c es y ou must t r y f or y ou r sel f . Fr om Ja m es B e a r d Aw a r d- n omina t ed c o c ktails on F r id a y night t o delicious s m o ked b a r b a c o a t a c os on Su n d a y m o r ni n g, n o n e can de n y that B r o wn s ville is a f oodie destination that of f e r s so m ethi n g special f or e v e r y o n e t o enj o y.
On the border, by the sea
A P L A T F ORM DEDI C A TED T O SH O W C ASING THE BE S T L O C AL DININ G , RE T AI L , AND LIFE S T Y LE SP O T S ON T H E BORDER, B Y T HE SE A
by
Photo
Daniela Loera
Pumpkin Cavatelli
Recipe by Mia Eustaquio, private chef in McAllen
Serves 6−8
“What I like about this pasta recipe is that it can be versatile and customizable. You can add more or less of things and really make it your own. This dish is such a textural experience from the warm pasta to the tender cabbage to the crunchy bread crumb topping, but it all comes together beautifully in each bite.”
1 pound (75 g) dry cavatelli
2 tablespoons (14.8 ml) olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups (178 g) green cabbage, shredded
¼ cup (453 g) freshly grated Parmesan plus more for garnish
¼ cup (32 g) pumpkin purée
¼ cup (60 g) mascarpone
Salt and pepper
For the crunchy topping:
6 tablespoons (85 g) butter
1 tablespoon (14.2 g) fresh sage, minced
¼ cup (37.7 g) roasted chestnuts or walnuts, chopped
½ cup (75 g) dry breadcrumbs
Salt
First prepare the crunchy topping. In a large skillet, melt the butter on mediumhigh heat. Cook until the milk fats start to separate and butter begins to lightly bubble and smell nutty. Whisk the butter until it develops a light brown color.
Add the minced sage and fry for 30 to 40 seconds or until it is aromatic.
Add the chestnuts or walnuts and breadcrumbs. Stir until combined. Season with a generous pinch of salt. Set crunchy topping aside to cool.
Next, prepare the pasta and sauce. In a large pot, cook the cavatelli in salted water, according to the package instructions.
While the pasta cooks, wipe out the large skillet and coat with the olive oil. Fry the minced garlic for 30 seconds then add the shredded cabbage. Sauté until the cabbage softens, 2 to 3 minutes. Set aside.
Add the Parmesan, pumpkin purée and mascarpone cheese, and mix.
Strain the pasta when al dente, reserving ½ cup of pasta water. Transfer pasta to the skillet with the cabbage mix. Stir pasta until it all is coated with the pumpkin mascarpone cream. Add a few tablespoons of pasta water at a time to loosen up the sauce. Season with salt and pepper, keeping in mind the previously added pasta water has salt in it as well.
Serve pasta in a bowl. Add desired amount of crunchy topping and garnish with grated Parmesan.
Salt Baked Red Snapper
Recipe by Eugenio Uribe, culinary director, Las Ramblas Hospitality Group
Makes 2 servings
“When you salt bake a fish, it works like a double oven. Cooking the fish seals in all the steam coming out of it. This cooking process is gentle as it retains all the moisture.
“This is a simple recipe that you can make year-round. I hope you enjoy making it as much as I do.”
1 whole, or 2 to 3 pounds (907.2 g to 1.4 kg), red snapper, gutted but not scaled
5 pounds (2.3 kg) rock salt
3 egg whites
Dry white wine or water, as needed
1 sprig fresh rosemary
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 shallot, peeled and cut into ⅛-inch thick slices
3 tablespoons (25.8 g) capers, rinsed and drained
Lemon wedges, for garnish
Preheat oven to 325 degrees F.
Place the rock salt in a large mixing bowl.
In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until large bubbles appear. Add egg whites to the salt and mix well. Add a little bit of white wine or water to the salt, mixing well until it reaches the consistency of wet sand.
Stuff the belly of the fish with the rosemary, thyme and shallots. On a large baking sheet, place a layer of salt and press down to even it out.
Place the stuffed fish on top of the layer of salt. Cover the fish with the remaining salt, pressing down all around to make a tight fishshaped salt mound.
Bake fish on the middle rack of the oven for 45 to 50 minutes.
Remove baking sheet from the oven. With the back of a wooden or heavy metal spoon, tap the salt mounds to break salt into large chunks then peel it away.
With a spatula, remove the fish from the salt and place it on a serving tray. Peel away the skin; it should come off very easily.
Serve with capers and lemon wedges.
Photo by Daniela Loera
Photo by Daniela Loera
Maple Glazed Sweet Potatoes
Recipe by Eugenio Uribe, culinary director, Las Ramblas Hospitality Group
Makes 4 servings
“Sweet potatoes remind me of the fall. In this recipe, the maple syrup balances the sweet potatoes pretty well. People are going to be familiar with the flavors. I added cumin, which is a warm spice and should make this dish feel very fall-like. This is a classic recipe that is perfect to make during this season or to serve at your Thanksgiving dinner.”
3 to 4 sweet potatoes
Salt, as needed
⅓ cup (78.9 ml) maple syrup
⅓ cup (78.9 ml) apple cider
2 tablespoons (29.6 ml) apple cider vinegar
3 tablespoons (42.5 g) unsalted butter
1 teaspoon (3 g) ground cumin
1 teaspoon (2 g) orange zest
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
Wash sweet potatoes in cold water. With a fork, prick them all several times and wrap each one in foil.
Bake for 45 minutes to 1½ hours, depending on the thickness of the sweet potatoes, until very tender.
Remove from the oven. Remove the foil from potatoes, let them cool then peel.
Cut sweet potatoes into large pieces and spread evenly in a baking dish. Season with salt.
In a small pot, combine the maple syrup, apple cider, apple cider vinegar, salt to taste, cumin and orange zest. Bring to a simmer on medium low heat. Simmer until slightly thick, about 15 minutes.
Pour hot syrup over the sweet potatoes. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes.
Photo by Cynthia Torres
Pumpkin Fig Loaf
Recipe by Ximena Díaz, pastry chef, Semilla Coffee Lab in McAllen Makes 1 loaf
“I can’t find fault with this loaf. It has my favorite flavors — fig, the fruit with the most delicious and unique flavor, and pumpkin, which definitely reminds me of my home and family. Sharing this recipe is sharing a little piece of me with you.”
2 cups (250 g) wheat flour
1½ cups (300 g) sugar
1 teaspoon (6 g) baking soda
1¼ teaspoons (2.1 g) pumpkin pie spice
½ teaspoon (3 g) salt
2 cups (425 g) pumpkin purée
½ cup (115 g) unsalted butter, melted
1 egg
⅓ cup (80 ml) milk
1 teaspoon (4.9 ml) vanilla extract
Fig slices, for garnish
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Mix the flour, sugar, baking soda, pumpkin pie spice and salt. Set aside.
In another bowl, mix the pumpkin purée, melted butter, egg, milk and vanilla.
Little by little, mix the dry ingredients with the wet ones.
Line a 9½-by-6-inch loaf pan with parchment paper. Add the mixture to the pan, spreading it evenly throughout. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes. Let cool.
Once cool, frost and decorate with fig slices.
For the frosting:
8 ounces (226.8 g) cream cheese
1 cup (115 g) powdered sugar
4 ounces or 1 stick (113.4 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 teaspoon (4.9 ml) vanilla extract
Mix together the sugar and butter. Gradually add the cream cheese and vanilla extract until the frosting texture is uniform.
Hayride
Recipe by Jen Valdez, barista
and bartender, Bandera Coffee Co. in Harlingen Makes 1 drink
“As a person who loves to be outdoors, I can’t wait for the long, sweltering fever of South Texas summers to break and give way to the cool breath of autumn. I wanted to fashion a cocktail that encapsulates the feeling of outdoors in the fall, with earthy, spiced aromas and playful candied apple.”
½ ounce (14.8 ml) Masala Chai Syrup (recipe follows)
½ ounce (14.8 ml) lemon juice
1½ ounces (44.4 ml) apple juice
1½ ounces (44.4 ml) rye whiskey
Ice
1 cinnamon stick, for garnish 2 thin apple slices, for garnish
First, prepare the garnishes. Sprinkle raw sugar over the apple slices. Using a kitchen blowtorch, torch slices until bubbling to create a crust. Then torch the cinnamon stick until it smolders.
For the cocktail, combine all of the ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake until frost forms on the outside. Strain and serve over fresh ice. Garnish with apple slices and cinnamon stick.
