Edible Rio Grande Valley - Spring 2024 by ediblergv

Gratis!

No. 9 Spring 2024

EAT. DRINK. THINK. LOCAL.

Member of Edible Communities

SPONSORED PAGE

ISSUE SPRING

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

COMMUNITY Strawberries — and Families — Thrive at Salinas Family Farm

NATURE Resacas Help Create a Sense of Place

13 WHAT’S IN SEASON

18 TRAVEL JOURNAL One State at a Time RECIPES 15 Strawberry Pie 22 Mostachon: The Mexican Pavlova 23 Serrano Sauce Ceviche 24 LAST SIP Fresas con Crema

14 MARKET GUIDE 15 VENDOR SPOTLIGHT Meet the People at the Market: Olivette Pena Fisher & Hernandez Family Farm

ON THE COVER: Strawberries from Salinas Farm in Lyford, Texas Photo by Scott Wolfe

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Year 3, here we go…. From the lenses of nature, we live in paradise in the Rio Grande Valley. The plants, the birds and the resacas are the things I missed when I moved away. During the COVID pandemic, the resaca near my house became my refuge. We could paddleboard or kayak and watch the different birds that make the resaca their home. I was curious about how resacas came to be. So our writer Steve Clark dove into the story and the role resacas play in our current and future ecosystems. Strawberries in Lyford, Texas? Heck, yes!!! When you add a seasoned professional like Cruz Salinas, you get locally grown organic strawberries that you get to pick yourself and eating the strawberries is an experience to remember. Let me tell you a strawberry-picking secret I discovered on the farm; when you see the shriveled, dehydrated berries...PICK THEM, they taste like candy! The strawberries from the Salinas Family Farm are the best I have ever tasted. We debut two new sections in this issue and we are so excited. The Travel Journal was inspired from our upcoming Italy trip in September. Yes, we are going to Southern Italy, and we invite you to join us on a food and wine tour of Campania, Puglia and the Amalfi Coast. Get all the details on page 2. Make sure to read Nikkie Saldivar Hodgson’s journal as she shares her summer trip to the Great Lakes. The places she visited and the meals she ate all focused on local. I also love that her goal is to visit every state in the U.S, and I am tuned in to see when she hits her goal. In our Vendor Spotlight, you will meet some of the people at the markets across the Valley. Letty and I wanted to start sharing their stories as each has a unique reason for providing their product to our community. You will meet Olivette Pena Fisher, founder of Ollie Oats. Her project marked a new chapter for her after battling cancer. She had been making this recipe for her family. It was a truly a labor of love. The Hernandez family farm is a touching story of the American dream come full circle. For the owners, Adriana and Antonio, growing up as migrant workers, farming was hard work. They never would have thought that farming would become a passion, a way for their family to come together doing what they love. We get many comments about our recipes.I chose to get ambitious with one, the ceviche recipe from Chilmoli, a new restaurant in Brownsville. If the entire recipe seems too much, please try the Serrano Sauce. It is incredibly delicious and simple to make. McAllen chef Carola Gutierrez introduces us to a surprisingly easy recipe. Her take on the traditional mostachon, the Mexican pavlova, is a definite show stopper. In Last Sip, Juan Flores brings us a cocktail that is indescribable. I was expecting it to be sweet and rich, but it turned out to be light and refreshing, with a hint of smoke from the mezcal. In March we will launch our issue dinner series to feature the people, the stories and the recipes we cover in our magazine. Our next dinner is happening in April in Brownsville, where we will celebrate spring and introduce you to this issue. Keep an eye out on our social media pages for details. Working on an issue of Edible Rio Grande Valley encompasses meeting, readers, its such a beautiful expereince and a true honor. And as always, none of this would be possible without our advertisers. We thank them for their continued support. We are always on the hunt for more businesses that see the value in what we are bringing to the valley. I hope you enjoy our spring issue.

PUBLISHER Jacqueline Folacci EDITOR Letty Fernandez PHOTO EDITOR Daniela Loera CONTRIBUTORS Denise Cathey Steve Clark Juan Flores Carola Gutierrez Nikkie Saldivar Hodgson Rafael Villalpando PHOTOGRAPHERS Denise Cathey Nikkie Saldivar Hodgson Daniela Loera Eric Schlegel Scott Wolfe LAYOUT DESIGN Matthew and Tina Freeman COPY EDITORS Doresa Banning Marci Caltibiano-Ponce Cristina Tijerina ADVERTISING advertise@edibleriograndevalley.com CONTACT US hola@ediblergv.com TO SUBSCRIBE Visit us online at edibleriograndevalley.com edible Rio Grande Valley is published quarterly by GC Publishing LLC. Subscription rate is $28 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us at hola@ediblergv.com. Thank you. ©2024. All rights reserved edibleriograndevalley.com

Jacqueline Folacci Publisher Edible Communities Publications of the Year (2011)

2 Spring 2024

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COMMUNITY

Strawberries and Families

Thrive at Salinas Family Farm STORY AND PHOTOS BY DENISE CATHEY

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ind turbines spin lazily in the distance as the sun sets. I carefully walk up and down the rows, scissors and a plastic container in hand, hunting for the perfect strawberries. I’m in Lyford, Texas, of all places, picking strawberries.

It is a very surreal feeling to be this far south in the state and picking strawberries, I’d never considered they’d grow in the valley until I visited Salinas Family Farm. Turns out, strawberries can indeed thrive in South Texas. Cruz Salinas, an agricultural expert and strawberry farmer, said strawberries was one of the many crops grown in the Rio Grande Valley before labor costs and the lack of mechanization made the crop unprofitable. But more than five years ago, Cruz and his wife Joyce brought strawberries back to South Texas, half an acre at a time on their farm. They’ve quickly become famous for their “U Pick” events, which let visitors head out into their fields and take home the sweetest, ripest berries of their choosing (assuming the haul remains uneaten before the car ride home). Cruz starts his strawberry crop thousands of miles away each year, as his transplants make their way to the Valley from California. Thankfully, due to the Valley’s more hospitable growing seasons, he can get them planted early, in late September or early October, and

Above: Family picking start spreading the splendor of his strawstrawberries together. berries as soon as January. It’s not easy getting strawberries to harvest, as Cruz can attest. If creatures with two legs like them, creatures with four legs (or wings) certainly don’t turn away from such a sweet snack. For that purpose, he uses a bird cannon, which creates a loud booming sound through pressurized air, to frighten away birds, and fencing to keep out rabbits and coyotes. Everything has to go just right to get the most out of the special crop, and things very rarely are perfect in agriculture. As he and Joyce tend the fields together in the evenings, Cruz says, they will often look at each other and ask, “Why are we doing this?” Truth is, they do it because they love it and the people it brings in to share their fields. “The things that come out of it that money can’t buy outweigh the problems,” Cruz adds. Bringing families together, sharing knowledge about how strawberries grow or simply just enjoying people as they experience the glorious taste of a perfectly ripe berry for the first time — these are what make the work worthwhile. As I stand in their field, my container bursting with lush strawberries, I watch as children hunt through the fields on their own quest for the biggest, the best, the reddest, the juiciest, the sweetest strawberries. And as I watch the parents enjoy their children’s enthusiasm, I get what Cruz means. There’s something so very special about this

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“As he and Joyce tend the fields together in the evenings, they will often look at each other and ask, ‘Why are we doing this?’ Truth is, they do it because they love it and the people it brings in to share their fields.”

Left: Cruz Salinas on the strawberry patch. Above: Little girl picking strawberries.

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Strawberry Pie

Recipe by Joyce Salinas, Salinas Family Farm in Lyford

experience. Granted, I’m pretty jazzed about my strawberries. After an hour or two of hunting through the plants, I’ve amassed a selection that will make an excellent strawberry rhubarb pie. I’d say that’s a great way to enjoy the “fruit” of my labor. If you’d like to attend a “U Pick” at the farm, keep in mind that all of these events are at the whim of Mother Nature and Lady Luck. Joyce handles the farm’s social media on their Facebook account, @SalinasFamilyFarm, where she posts the “U Pick” notices throughout the season for however many people they can accommodate that day. The faster you sign up, the better. Keep in mind, these events are extremely in demand so you might have to wait a while before it is your turn. “To this day it takes about five minutes to fill our list. We’ve had some people waiting two or three years,” Joyce says. “U Pick” events are $5 to $6 per box of strawberries picked, with a very generous interpretation by the Salinas couple of when your box is deemed “full.” If you’d just like to try strawberries from the Salinas Family Farm, you can catch Cruz selling them at the Harlingen Farmer’s Market, which meets on Saturdays starting at 3 p.m. on Tyler Avenue and 2nd Street. Denise Cathey is a reporter living in Houston. A native Texan and perpetual RGV enthusiast, she has an ingrained love of whiskey, BBQ and the truly odd. As ever, she is always on the lookout for the perfect cup of coffee. Follow her on Instagram @denisecatheyphoto.

“I was given this recipe from a good friend many years ago. It is my go to recipe. It is super easy. I make it for my family since they love strawberries. My coworkers also ask me to make it as soon as strawberry season comes around. They love it! You can really tell the difference between a store bought strawberry and a freshly picked one!” 3 tablespoons (30 g) cornstarch 1¼ cups (150 g) sugar 1½ cups (296 ml) water 1 3-ounce box strawberry Jell-O 2½ cups (300 g) strawberries 1 prebaked 10-inch pie crust, cooled Whipped topping (recipe follows) Wash and remove stems from strawberries. Add the strawberries to the cooked pie crust. Set aside. Combine cornstarch, sugar and water in small saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring constantly, until thickened. Add the Jell-O and stir until Jell-O is dissolved. Pour over the strawberries and refrigerate until set. When set, top with the whipped topping. For the whipped topping: 1 cup (237 ml) cold heavy whipping cream 3 tablespoons (23.4 g) powdered sugar ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) vanilla Add all ingredients to a cold mixing bowl and beat with an electric mixer for several minutes until peaks form. Use immediately or store in refrigerator.

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NATURE

Resacas Help Create a Sense of Place

STORY BY STEVE CLARK

ats off to the lower Rio Grande Valley farmers of a century ago who had the good sense to take advantage of the region’s naturally occurring resacas to irrigate their fields rather than digging canals or laying pipe.

Otherwise, the resaca systems that are such a central feature of the region’s social-cultural-environmental character probably wouldn’t be so central. Take it from Jude A. Benavides, associate professor of hydrology with the University of Texas Rio Grande Valley’s School of Earth, Environmental, and Marine Sciences. He grew up living on a resaca, still lives on one, has been studying them for more than 20 years and probably knows more about them — particularly the ones that wind their sinewy way through the lower Valley — than anybody.

Those growers of old probably were more concerned with saving money than preserving resacas for future generations, but who cares? “The fact remains that a lot of the resacas are not as threatened as they could be, because we use them for irrigation purposes,” Benavides says. “And now as irrigation demands decline and urban demands increase, we have another bold decision to make.” That decision involves how to keep resacas viable for the long haul, but more about that later. Meanwhile, what are they? “Resaca” is Spanish for “vestige” (also “hangover”). There is no shortage of misconceptions. They are not, for instance, exclusively oxbow lakes, formed when a river bypasses out a bend to carve out a more direct course, but they do include oxbow lakes, Benavides says.

Paddlebording at sunset at Resaca de los Cuates in Los Fresnos.

Photo by Erich Schlegel

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They are also abandoned distributaries (not tributaries), secondary river channels and old meanders — characterized by a “curvy, bendy path, like a snake,” according to the U.S. Geological Survey. “They encompass abandoned waterways of the Rio Grande over the course of the last several thousand years,” Benavides says. “The whole network encompasses a good one-third of the southeastern Valley and a good section of northeastern Tamaulipas.” The Valley’s five major resaca systems are, from north to south, Resaca de los Fresnos, Resaca de los Cuates, Resaca del Rancho Viejo, Resaca de la Palma and Town Resaca, which squiggles through the heart of Brownsville, including Dean Porter Park and Gladys Porter Zoo, skirting Old City Cemetery. Generations of South Texans have grown up, courted and picnicked alongside them, fished them, swam them (not recommended), and thrown old tires and other junk in them (bad idea). Resacas figure in the area’s history, culture and stories, they beautify the landscape Photo courtesy of Brownsville and they support copious wildlife — most conspicuously Public Utilities Board a breathtaking assortment of birds. “It imbues the area with a sense of place, particularly for those that grew up in and around them,” says Benaof course paddle your canoe, kayak or pirogue on it and the other resacas vides, who lives on Resaca de la Palma. to your heart’s content. The Brownsville Public Utilities Board (BPUB) and the city of Wet resacas are loaded with fish, from bass to prehistoric alligator Brownsville jointly manage most of Town Resaca, which is a major gar, which tends to surprise a lot of people, Benavides says. As far as storm water collector and kept flowing with raw water from the Rio eating resaca fish, it depends on the particular system. If there’s no flow, Grande, a good reason for not swimming in it, Benavides says. You can then no, he wouldn’t do it, though Benavides has eaten bass on occasion pulled out of Resaca de los Cuates. That said, he’d avoid gar. They live a long time and accumuCourtesy of Bridgett Collis late too much bad stuff in their bodies, Benavides says. and the School of Earth, One of his neighbors is Traci Wickett, who retired Environmental, and Marine last year as head of the United Way of Southern CamerSciences at UTRGV on County and lives with her husband, Rick, on Resaca de la Palma. Like Benavides, she loves resaca life — especially along her particular stretch. What used to be farmland on the opposite bank from the Wicketts’ property was acquired years ago by Texas Parks & Wildlife, reforested, and will never be developed. “The land across the resaca from us will be forever wild,” Traci Wickett says. “There’s just wildlife galore across the resaca from us that comes and visits our feeders, our yard, our dock. It’s just magical. We love hearing the coyotes howling, and the chachalacas have a big time over there. We’ve seen a bobcat come down and drink from the resaca.” Wickett can watch the sunrise from her backyard, and loves the way the moon and clouds are reflected in

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Left: Kayak tour at Dean Porter Park. Right: Pelicans take in the sun at Town Resaca. Below: A resaca known as Olmito Lake in Olmito.

Photo courtesy of Brownsville Public Utilities Board

Photo By Erich Schlegel

the water. Don’t forget the birds: green jays, whistling ducks, pelicans, herons and egrets, to name a few. “We’ve got feeders out right now for the orioles,” she says. “One of them comes around squawking at me like, ‘Come on, where’s my jelly?’” BPUB is 10 years into a vast resaca-restoration project for the pieces it manages. It involves dredging, removing invasive vegetation and planting native vegetation and other improvements. Funding comes from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers and the RESTORE Act, though most of the activity now is associated with RESTORE while BPUB waits for USACE funding to restart. Town Resaca, through the zoo, the park and the old cemetery, has already been dredged and other improvements made. Ryan Greenfeld, BPUB’s communications and public relations manager, said preliminary engineering work and all the design work have been completed for Resaca de la Palma at Brownsville’s old Jagou Plantation site (founded in 1872 by French immigrant Celestine Jagou). Now they’re waiting on USACE funding, which depends on the whims of Congress. edibleriograndevalley.com

Sign up for our newsletter • Get early access to events • See what seasonal veggies to plant and eat • List of upcoming food events in the RGV

Photo courtesy of Brownsville Public Utilities Board

Brownsville Public Utilities Board dredging Town Resaca.

Scan the QR code above or visit edibleriograndevalley.com to sigh up today.

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“The project does have a new status,” Greenfeld says. “It has been listed as a Corps project. There are lots of really big obstacles that you have to overcome before you can get any funding. Right now we’re keeping an eye on (Washington) D.C. to see where things go.” Meanwhile, BPUB, using RESTORE funds, is dredging bits of Town Resaca, replacing native vegetation and doing bank improvements, he says. Crews were taking samples from the Prax Orive Jr. (Sunrise) Park in Brownsville to gauge the amount of sediment. “Aside from just taking samples they’re also going in and physically probing, going out on a boat and feeling around to get an idea of what’s in there,” Greenfeld says. Tree stumps, for instance, or tires. When crews dredged Old City Cemetery they kept having to stop to remove tires, shopping carts and other big junk — much easier said than done. BPUB would like to do less of that. But it’s all part of saving the resacas, a massive undertaking with limited funds. “We have a lot of places we want to do,” Greenfeld says. “We know that there’s a lot of need, but it just takes time and of course funding. It’s something that we’re definitely very committed to, especially when in these

last few years we’ve seen a lot of drought.” The Valley’s sprawling, serpentine, complex resaca systems can’t manage themselves, and without vision, willingness, strategies and money to keep them viable, they’ll eventually cease to exist. Managing them is complicated by the wide range of rainfall variability, between drought and flood, though mostly drought these days. “They’ll eventually fill up with sediment and go the way of a naturally severed limb,” Benavides says. “But we have an opportunity to squeeze, I’d say, decades if not a couple of hundred years more out of them and potentially more, depending on what we do with water conservation in the Rio Grande watershed.” Humans have to shoulder the responsibility for sustaining the resacas they enjoy, while scientists like him figure out the best course, Benavides says. At stake is a big chunk of that sense of place. “They are threatened by a variety of different things,” he adds. “If we don’t take care of them, they will go away. If they go away, the landscape will be changed, unfortunately, forever.”

Steve Clark is a writer living in Brownsville, Texas. When not writing about food and other subjects, he enjoys going on adventures with his lovely wife, Laura, picking banjo and guitar, and tinkering with his vintage Jeep truck.

What’s In Season March – May

Beets* * Bell Peppers *** Broccoli ** Cabbage** Cantaloupes *** Cucumbers ** Field Peas ** Greens **

Green Onions ** Honeydew *** Melons *** Onions ** Spinach * Strawberries *** Sweet Peppers *** Watermelons *** March Only *

March & April **

What to Plant Corn * Cucumbers* Eggplant * Hot Peppers * Snap & Lima Beans * Sweet Peppers ** Tomatoes* May Only ***

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MARKET GUIDE

Market to Market

All Across the Rio Grande Valley Market Locations & Available CSAs Brownsville Brownsville Farmers Market Linear Park, 1495 E. 7th St. Saturdays 9AM-12PM brownsvillewellnesscoalition.com @brownsvillewellnesscoalition

Donna Heart of the Valley Farmers Market 120 S. Main St. 3rd Sunday of every month 2-5PM @heartofvalleyfm

Edinburg Hub of Prosperity Urban Farm 3707 W. University Dr. Saturdays 9-11AM openfoodnetwork.net @hub_of_prosperity

Harlingen

Laguna Vista

Primera

Available CSAs in the RGV

SPIGC Community Farmers Market South Padre Island Golf Course 1 Ocelot Trail Rd. 1st & 3rd Tuesday of the month 4–6PM

Primera Market City Hall, 22893 Stuart Place Rd. 3rd Thursday of the month 3-6PM (956) 423-9654 or ecavazos@primeratx.gov

CSA, or Community Supported Agriculture (CSA), is one way consumers can directly support local farms. You connect directly with the farmer, and every week your farmer delivers or you can pick up a variety of fresh nutritious food. All CSAs have different financial structures and procedures, so we suggest you reach out to the CSA for more information.

McAllen Farm to Table Tres Lagos Farmers Market 4350 Tres Lagos Blvd. 1st Sunday of every month 2-5PM visitmcallen.com @treslagosmcallen Grow’n Growers Farmers Market Firemen’s Park, 201 N. 1st St. Saturdays 9AM-12PM visitmcallen.com @farmersmarketatfiremenspark

Harlingen Farmers Market Tyler Avenue & 2nd St. Saturdays 3-4:30PM Mid October-mid June harlingenfarmersmarket.com @harlingenfarmersmarket

McAllen Farmers Market 4001 N. 23rd St. Saturdays 10AM-1PM mcallenfarmersmarket.com @mcallenfarmersmarket

HOPE Farmers Market 19833 Morris Rd. Mondays & Thursdays-Saturdays 10AM-6PM yahwehfarm.com yahwehs.farmgarden@gmail.com @yahwehsfarm hopeforsfs@yahoo.com hopeforsfs.org

Buena Vida 77 Farmers Market 77 Farmers Market Bannworth Park 1822 N. Shary Rd. Sundays 2-4:30PM Buenavida77gardens.com 512-554-9713

Wild August Nursery & Flower Market 16802 Garrett Rd. October-May Saturdays 9AM-12PM June-September Fridays 6-9PM wildaugust.com @themarketatwildaugust

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Mission

Neighborhood Farmers Market The Bryan House 1113 E. Mile 2 Rd. Wednesdays 3-7PM thebryanhouse.com @thebryanhouse

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Rancho Viejo Rancho Viejo Farmers Market 3301 Carmen Ave. Every other Sunday 3-6PM ranchoviejofm.com @ranchoviejofarmersmarket

San Benito El Pueblito Market 101 N. Reagan St. 2nd Sunday of the month 11AM-3PM elpueblitomarket956@ gmail.com

South Padre Island South Padre Island Farmers Market 8605 Padre Blvd. Sundays 11AM-1PM sopadre.com

Weslaco La Cebollita Mid-Valley Farmers Market Weslaco City Hall 255 S. Kansas Ave. Last Saturday of every month 11AM-2PM @weslaco_chamber weslaco.com

CD&J Mini Ranch Offers a produce CSA Meat and egg CSA 29575 Adams Rd., San Benito cdjminiranch.com @cdjminiranch_woman_owned Nature’s Heartland Farm Offers produce and eggs 11920 N. Mile 16, Edinburg Saturdays 10AM-4PM heartlandfarm.com @naturesheartland Sentli Center for Regenerative Agriculture Offers produce CSA from Participants: Terra Preta Farm, Food Bank RGV, Vida Farms, The Hour Farm & Sunshine’s Bounty. Contact Shakera Raygoza to sign up, 956-472-7436 Valley Green Growers Cooperative (VGG) Offers fresh produce and protein boxes CSA 19833 Morris Rd., Harlingen vggcoop@hopeforsfs.org

VENDOR SPOTLIGHT

MEET THE PEOPLE AT THE MARKET Olivette Pena Fisher & Hernandez Family Farm STORY BY LETTY FERNANDEZ

ENA FISHER OLIVETTE P ket

Farmers Mar Brownsville s Market Island Farmer South Padre al media or at Oats on soci e lli O w llo Fo . ollieoats.com

Olivette Pena Fisher describes her Ollie Oats as a “convenient little pouch of goodness” that you can eat right out of the package. She created Ollie Oats in January of 2023, shortly after completing treatments for cancer. She says she has always been a busy and active person. Her son Robbie encouraged her to find something to do. “We were trying to think of what to sell, and Robbie and my niece, Anissa, suggested selling overnight oats,” Pena Fisher says. “I have been making overnight oats since my twins were toddlers, and the idea just grew from there.” Two months later, she was ready to unveil her product. Ollie Oats is a family affair as her husband, children and even her mother pitch in every week to help get her product to the markets. Pena Fisher is free of cancer. In March she will mark her one-year anniversary of sharing her Ollie Oats and selling it to the public. Tell us about Ollie Oats. I start by combining our rolled oats with super foods such chia, flax and pumpkin seeds. There is no added sugar because the sweetness comes from dried fruit, dates and coconuts. I offer six varieties, a carrot cake version but only in the fall. Our product is a healthy meal, but what we are really providing is convenience to our customers. They can pour their favorite plant- or dairy-based milk right into the eco-friendly rice paper package. Simply refrigerate for three to four hours or overnight, and when it’s ready,

you can eat right from the pouch. The best part is there is no need for a messy cleanup. What do you like about selling at the farmers’ markets? I enjoy meeting and talking to people. I was a teacher and a school administrator for 34 years. When I was diagnosed with cancer and had to begin treatment, I had to stop working, so I retired. I was so used to being around people, I missed that. I could have sold Ollie Oats from home, but I wanted to get out there to the farmers’ market. I have run into people that I have not seen in a long time. It also gives me joy to meet and hear the customers’ reactions. People tell me, “Oh, wow, I can take it to work or when I travel,” and I have parents sending Ollie Oats to their kids at college. Your husband says the whole experience in making Ollie Oats has brought a smile to your face, and that has been part of your recovery. As I smile, my husband means that Ollie Oats has given me purpose and optimism in this new lease on life. I enjoy the new outlook and spending time with the people that supported, loved and continue wishing me well. Ollie Oats has helped me embrace my emotions and make the most of every day. It brings a smile to my face because I feel that little by little I am helping people make better eating choices that are just “smart eating.” edibleriograndevalley.com

VENDOR SPOTLIGHT

RM Z FAMILY FA eggs and organic HERNANDE , vegetables opical fruits men’s Exotic and tr arket at Fire s Farmers M er w ro G ’n w Gro n na Park, McAlle s Market, Don Valley Farmer e th on Heart of si arket, Mis 77 Farmers M orrea Buena Vida Hernandez-C ia onio-Adr na nt A @ ok bo Face

Antonio and Adriana Hernandez, and their six-yearold daughter Jodie-Faith live outside of Edinburg on their 3-acre property. It’s a life they dreamt of, living in the country and having a farm. They grow vegetables and fruits and raise organic-fed chickens for their fresh eggs. What they are really known for is the exotic fruit they grow — 40 varieties of dragon fruit and more than 20 different kinds of other fruit, such as starfruit, passion fruit, avocado, sugar apple, cherimoya, guanabana, ice cream bean, guava, longan, luffa, berries, the list continues. “One of the directors of the Heart of the Valley Farmers Market searched for dragon fruit and that led her to our Facebook page, and that’s how it happened,” says Ariana. Then another market found us, then recently another and now we sell at three markets.” The Hernandezes have a dream to retire from their current fulltime jobs and start their very own little family farmers market from home and pass the business to Jodie-Faith, who now says she wants to “be a farmer” like her mom and dad when she grows up. How did you start gardening? Since we were small children, my husband and I have always had a thing for gardening with our parents. However, the irony, being young migrant workers, contracted to work in fields for many years, was not really our passion. As adults, now with good careers and since meeting each other, gardening has actually become a great stress reliever from work life, and such a rewarding recreational hobby for our little family, that grew even more with the recent pandemic. We had a lot more time on our hands, so we started gardening more together. My young daughter would always say how she loved her new life and family because we were able to be home together and have fun outside and eat yummy food.

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How did you get into growing exotic fruits? I have always loved exotic fruit and plants. And when I found out there were so many kinds of fruit trees and plants that could grow here in the Valley, especially so many varieties of dragon fruit, I went crazy. So many people see the different types of exotic fruit and beautiful tropical fruit we grow and sell, and when we let them taste it, they love it. My husband and daughter also started raising organic-fed chicks and chickens almost two years ago, which we now have about 70. With so many eggs, we have been able to sell at least 30 dozen a week at the markets. Now we have expanded our crop areas to grow even extra goodies for the markets. You enjoy gardening and participating in the farmer markets? When people ask us why we have so many farm animals, raise chickens and garden so much and now find the time to do farmers markets, my response is it’s not only one of our family stress relievers, but it is our family time together, away from the daily battles of the world. And it is one of our happy places. And when you find happiness in a family activity, you will make time for it.

BEYOND THE BAGEL SMOKED SALMON ISN’T JUST FOR BREAKFAST ANYMORE!

Kvarøy Arctic Smoked Norwegian Salmon is the perfect way to add salmon to your dishes any day of the week. At Kvarøy Arctic, our smokehouse experts naturally smoke the salmon with extravagant care and technique, creating a luxurious mild flavor that will transport you to the great Norwegian outdoors.

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TRAVEL JOURNAL

One State at a Time

STORY & PHOTOS BY NIKKIE SALDIVAR HODGSON

am on a mission to see all 50 U.S. states before my 60th birthday, which is nearing. Last summer I traveled to the Midwest and enjoyed skirting all five Great Lakes and visiting a few states left to get to. I convinced my dear friend since ninth grade, Tammy, to join me. We both agreed to eat our way through the trip, consuming only local cuisine and foods. After flying into Buffalo, New York, we headed to Niagara Falls State Park, on the U.S. side. We stopped at DiCamillo Bakery, a century-old, family-owned bakery that rolls fresh bread daily. We crossed into Canada and at magnificent Niagara Falls, did all the tourist stuff, the Maid of the Mist and “Behind the Falls” tour.

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Top left: Ambassador, Houghton, Michigan. Center right: Rocky shoreline and sunset on Mackinac Island, Michigan. Center left: Freshly picked strawberries from Always June, Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada. Bottom right: Carriage ride approaching The Grand Hotel, Mackinac Island, Michigan.

In Ontario we ate at Massimo’s Italian Fallsview Restaurant, headed by one of Canada’s most prominent chefs, Massimo Capra. I had a delicious Caesar salad, topped with crisp prosciutto, and a lovely linguine pescatore, seasoned to perfection. We had an amazing dinner while viewing the falls from above — breathtaking. A fireworks and light show brightened the falls at night. It was a perfect end to the first day. After a good night’s sleep, we drove to Lake Ontario. En route, we spotted an organic farm and market named Always June. There, we loaded up on freshly picked strawberries, warm baked chocolate chip cookies and other locally grown goods. Upon arriving in Niagara-On-The-Lake, we were awed by its beauty. This town, with many cozy restaurants and blooming gardens, is worth seeing. High tea at the Prince of Wales Hotel is a must. The view of Lake Ontario was majestic. edibleriograndevalley.com

The next morning, we drove Interstate 90 and exited frequently to discover lovely lake towns with beautiful lighthouses on Lake Erie. Once in downtown Cleveland, we had brunch at Cordelia’s, a local farm-to-table culinary experience led by chef Vinnie Cimino. I had a burger box, a 1921-style burger with smoked Cheddar, pickles, onions and a secret sauce, which was excellent. Our dinner that evening was at Marble Room Steaks & Raw Bar, an old bank converted into a restaurant. I selected a bone-in rib eye steak, which was cooked to perfection. The chef complimented us with whipped potatoes and garlic-chive butter. For dessert, we had the guava and blackberry swirl crème brûlée. The food was superb and the ambience, extraordinary. While in Ohio, we traveled through Amish Country, discovering cultural and historical treasures of its people. At Hershberger’s Farm & Bakery in Holmes County, we had our fill of delicious baked breads and pastries, homemade cheeses and meats, and fresh produce. We continued towards Toledo, detouring to view Lake Erie from its shorelines.

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Top left: Marble Room Steaks & Raw Bar, Cleveland, Ohio. Top right: Kayak and bike Shop on Mackinac Island, Michigan. Center: Nikkie Saldivar Hodgson (left) and Tammy Garza (right) at Blu Dot Farm & Vineyard, Charlevoix, Michigan. Bottom left: Delicious cocktail at Speakeasy: The Counting Room at Vault Hotel, Houghton, Michigan. Bottom right: Woods Restaurant in The Grand Hotel, Mackinac Island, Michigan.

Our next stop was Charlevoix, Michigan — we loved everything about it. We stayed at The Earl, a boutique hotel with a great rooftop bar offering a view of Lake Michigan and live music. We visited Lost Cellars, owned by retired doctors who discovered the art of making wine … and amazing pizzas. We dined at Grey Gables, a restaurant dating to 1936. The entire experience was phenomenal. I started with the B.L.T Wedge, featuring smoked bacon, blue cheese crumbles and dressing. For my entrée I had pan roasted Norwegian salmon with a grain mustard and balsamic glaze, couscous, crispy leeks and lemon beurre blanc. Charlevoix is noteworthy for its beautiful bright red, square-shaped lighthouse and a group of fascinating stone structures built in the early 1900s: the Mushroom Houses. Next, we stopped in Petoskey to see its beautiful downtown area full of unique boutiques and galleries. We ferried over to Mackinac Island, where horse-drawn carriages, bicycles or walking is how you see its sights. We rented bicycles and rode the entire 8.2mile island loop. The views of Lake Huron were glorious. The Grand Hotel, a National Historic Landmark, around since 1887 and with a rich history, is a must see and stay. On its grounds is Woods Restaurant, a remote, sophisticated Bavarian hunting lodge once used as a shelter and for gatherings. The Woods’ menu showcased a field-to-farm concept. I ordered a shrimp bisque followed by butter poached lake trout with braised leeks, crisp potato pancakes and crème fraîche, and caviar. For dessert, we tried the chocolate pot de crème with flaked gold and sea salt. It all was as delicious as it sounds. We couldn’t leave the island without trying Original Murdick’s Fudge. I’ll just say I want to go

back there for the fudge! Back on the mainland, we headed northwest to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. There it was, in all its grandeur: Lake Superior. We arrived in Houghton, where our foodie highlight was Ambassador, a family-owned restaurant since 1965 with an award-winning reputation built on creating exceptional pizzas. We stayed at the swanky Vault Hotel, once a bank. The Counting Room, a speakeasy snuggled into the basement, serves handcrafted cocktails in a unique atmosphere. Michigan, with its quaint towns, local dining experiences and beautiful lighthouses, enthralled me. We stopped in Wisconsin and Minnesota for a few nights then hit our final destination, Fargo, North Dakota. It had a cosmopolitan and urban vibe to it. We stayed at Hotel Donaldson, in the center of a revitalized downtown with great shops, eateries and entertainment. Its fabulous rooftop bar afforded views of the city and the marvelous sunset. We ate at Rosewild, showcasing rich regional flavors and fresh produce in its dishes. Its light pink Paloma fresh grapefruit juice cocktail, my favorite of the trip, was rimmed with volcanic salt and a grapefruit slice. It was a marvelous summer full of new discoveries. We stuck to our commitment to only try local cuisines, breweries, bakeries, wineries and coffee houses, which made our journey even more enjoyable and memorable.

Nikkie Saldivar Hodgson grew up in Harlingen and resides on South Padre Island, Texas. She is a professor at Texas State University. A published children’s book author, she enjoys writing, traveling and spending time with her young adult children.

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RECIPES

Photo by Daniela Loera

Mostachon: The Mexican Pavlova

Recipe by Carola Gutierrez, chef and owner, Caramela Food Boutique in Mission Makes 10 servings “The natural sweetness of fruit complements any kind of cake, and in this typical dessert from the North of Mexico, it is a key element that also enhances the cake flavor and texture. In Mexico, the mostachon is called by many the Mexican Pavlova. This crunchy meringue-based cake, with walnuts and crackers, is topped with a cream-based icing and the fruit of your preference. The tradition calls for strawberries, however, I find that figs, mangoes, raspberries and guavas are an excellent replacement that can take this dessert to a next level. This spring is the perfect season to delight yourself with this fresh dessert, from brunch to dinner.”

8 1 1 1½ 3 2 up 2 ¾ ½ ½

egg whites teaspoon (3 g) cream of tartar teaspoon (4.9 ml) vanilla extract cups (300 g) sugar cups (375 g) walnuts, chopped cups (350 g) Ritz crackers, broken cups (120 g) cream cheese cup (97.5 g) powdered sugar cup (152 g) dulce de leche cup (120 ml) heavy whipping cream

Stir in the chopped nuts and the broken crackers (breaking them by hand just before adding them to the mixture works well) then give this mixture just a gentle fold. Pour it into a 9-inch round cake pan or springform pan previously greased and lined with parchment paper. Bake for 1 hour and cool at room temperature before decorating.

Preheat the oven at 320° F. In a mixer, beat the egg whites and cream of tartar at maximum speed until firm peaks are obtained.

For the icing, beat the cream cheese with the icing sugar and the heavy whipping cream until the mixture is soft without lumps.

Add the vanilla and sugar in the form of rain, beat about 5 minutes until they have a bright color and firm peaks.

Once the cake is cool, add a layer of dulce de leche, cover this with the icing and top it with the fruit of your preference.

Watch Carola make the recipe!

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Photo by Daniela Loera

Serrano Sauce Ceviche

Recipe by Rafael Villalpando, chef at Chilmoli Mexican Steakhouse in Brownsville Serves 4 “My inspiration for this recipe comes from when I lived and worked in Riviera Maya. Every morning they would bring in fresh fish off the boats. I love working with fresh ingredients. In this recipe I have the coast from Playa del Carmen, and I add some luxury ingredients, like the truffle oil and Parmesan cheese, to make a fusion of ingredients that match. I had the idea one day to make a different green aquachile, which is very simple. I wanted to try to be different and use the flavor of the serrano. I choose to combine it in this recipe with the Parmesan for a little creaminess.” For the ceviche: 1 cup (200 g) red snapper, raw, cut into small cubes 1/3 cup octopus tentacles, cooked (recipe follows) 2 tablespoons (24 g) red onion, julienned ⅓ cup (42 ml) lime juice 1 cup (140 g) serrano sauce (recipe follows) Black pepper, to taste Hibiscus or fine sea salt, to taste 3 tablespoons (40 g) avocado 2 tablespoons (30 g) Persian cucumber, thinly sliced ½ tablespoon (2 g) serrano chile, thinly sliced Cilantro microgreens 2 teaspoons (10 g) truffle oil Garlic chips, for garnish (recipe follows) 4 tostadas Place the red snapper and the octopus in a bowl. Add the red onion, fresh lime juice and salt. Let marinate for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the serrano sauce and mix well. Plate the ceviche. Salt and pepper, to taste. Top with avocado, cucumber, serrano chile, truffle oil and cilantro microgreens. Garnish with garlic and serve with tostadas.

For the octopus: 3 to 4 octopus tentacles 4 cloves garlic 2 sprigs fresh rosemary ½ white onion 2 tablespoons olive oil Salt Place the octopus in a pot with the garlic, rosemary and white onion. Cover with cold water. Cook over medium flame until the water begins to boil, then reduce heat and simmer the octopus until tender, about 1 to 2 hours. Octopus is tender when you can easily pierce the thickest part of the tentacle with a paring knife. Once cooked, allow the octopus to cool in the water, then remove and pat dry with a paper towel. Let the tentacles dry, sitting on paper towels in the fridge, for another 2 to 3 hours to get maximum char when grilling. The drier they are, the more char you will get without overcooking them. Light a grill for high heat cooking, 450° F degrees or higher. Douse the tentacles in the olive oil, then sprinkle with salt. Grill until they have a nice char. Set aside. Once cool, slice tentacles into small circles.

For the serrano sauce: ¼ cup (56 g) olive oil ¼ cup (56 g) serrano pepper ½ cup (100 g) Parmesan cheese, shredded (Grana Padana preferred) ⅔ cup (140 g) fresh lime juice 4 cloves garlic ½ cup (121 g) cilantro 1 tablespoon (10 g) kosher salt 1 large tomatillo with skin Blend all the ingredients around 8 minutes until you have a smooth purée consistency. Strain, chill and reserve. For the garlic chips: 4 cloves garlic, peeled, thinly sliced ¼ cup neutral oil Peel the garlic cloves without crushing them. Cut them into thin, uniform slices. Set a frying pan on medium-low heat and add the oil. Add the garlic slices. Bring up to temperature and cook until the garlic is lightly golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes. When the garlic slices are lightly golden, remove from the pan using a slotted spoon or a fine-mesh skimmer spoon to drain the oil. Transfer chips to a paper towel-lined plate in a single layer to absorb any excess oil. Let cool completely. Store in an airtight container.

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LAST SIP

Photo by Daniela Loera

Fresas con Crema

Recipe by Juan Flores, co-owner/bar director, Terras Urban Mexican Kitchen in Brownsville Makes 1 serving “When it comes to creating a new cocktail, it is often helpful to start with a specific flavor combination and build from there. In the case of this particular cocktail, the inspiration came from a flavor combination that evoked childhood nostalgia. Specifically, the memories are of enjoying “fresas con crema” as a special treat after a meal, as my grandmother used to prepare for me. For those who may not be familiar, fresas con crema is a simple dessert consisting of fresh strawberries topped with half cream. To recreate this fond memory, I decided to incorporate my preferred spirit, mezcal. I hope you enjoy my take on a guilty pleasure. Cheers!” 1½ ½ 1¼

ounces (44.4 ml) Del Maguey Vida mezcal ounce (14.8 ml) Giffard Crème de Cacao white liqueur ounces (37 ml) strawberry condensed milk (recipe follows) ¼ ounce (7.4 ml) simple syrup (recipe follows) ½ ounce (14.8 ml) lemon juice Fresh mint, for garnish Strawberry slice, for garnish Combine all ingredients in a shaker, add ice, shake and strain into a glass. Add fresh pebble ice. Garnish with fresh mint and a strawberry slice. For the strawberry condensed milk: 14 ounces condensed milk 14 fresh strawberries, hulled Place the condensed milk and strawberries in a blender. Blend and strain. Once strained, store the milk in an airtight container for up to 1 week. For the simple syrup: 2 cups sugar 1 cup water Add the sugar and water to a saucepan and stir over heat until the sugar completely dissolves. Store the syrup in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

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