San Diego County's food media company NO. 59 • PEAK OF SUMMER 2020
EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES
The
UNCOOK BOOK
SUMMER 2020 |
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Peak of Summer 2020
CONTENTS
Issue 59
IN T HIS ISSUE DE PARTMENTS
4 Publisher’s Note E AT ING WELL
6 The Uncook Book: Tips For Being Ready to Eat 10 Let’s Go Nuts 12 Picked for Summer 14 Seafood City
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LOC AL ATTRACTIONS
22 Local Markets Guide PREP
24 How to Make Fritters Out of (Almost) Anything WHAT TO LOOK FOR O N E DIBLESANDIEGO.CO M
The best of summer cooking and eating with new original stories and videos weekly on our website. R E AD
Cultivating Food Justice for Social Justice • Garden of Eden • Second Chance Youth Gardens • Pandemic Farming • Betty Crocker’s Kitchen in Valley Center
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LI ST E N
Living Local Podcast
Potato Salad with Gooseberry Vinaigrette • Stone Fruit Clafoutis • Peach Caprese • Beet Carpaccio with Burrata and Pistachios + more recipe videos ON T H E COVER
Cotija cheese, chile-lime seasoning, and pickled corn and jalapeño dress wedges of watermelon to bring salty, tangy, spicy, and sweet together in perfect balance. It almost looks like a guilt-free plate of nachos, so it’s okay to indulge all day every day, right? Get the recipe on page 12.
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Publisher’s Note |
edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year
Talk About Essential Welcome to Edible San Diego’s summer 2020 issue. Grab something cool to drink, and let’s take a moment to sit for a spell. Like most everyone, Edible San Diego has been dealing with the pandemic by taking stock, prioritizing, and then reorganizing. To adapt, we created a new membership program in April and soon realized we had to go all the way with a digital transformation to survive and serve our readers and advertisers better than ever before. Join us online where lots of exciting change is just beginning to unfold. With so much transition inside and out, we postponed our summer edition and hope you agree the results are worth the wait. We want to thank the many people who jumped in to share their recipes and photos because this summer issue needed to be our most collaborative effort ever. Take that, COVID!
MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES
Our goal with this Uncook Book is to take the struggle out of “what’s for dinner” (or lunch or breakfast) so we can make better food choices for ourselves that are automatically better choices for our community, economy, and the planet.
Cheryl Angelina Koehler
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Local food prepared simply and shared is an incredible gift—and statement—each time. May we show gratitude for the natural systems and the many hands that bring it to our plates. Let’s pledge to learn and work together more effectively for more equitable wellness in our region.
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Maria Hesse Executive Editor
Considering that most of our everyday meals are not recipe-based, we compiled simple ideas meant for easy prep and options that everyone at the table will enjoy. There’s a list of classic fallbacks reminding us about the ease of tacos and sandwiches, plus ways to make the most out of rice papers and noodles with prepped veggies. We go nuts for plant-based milk, creams, and dips that are good with anything, and we included a few outstanding seasonal salads. We also dedicated space to our city’s finest resource—local catch—and threw Pacific rockfish into a ceviche duel.
2017 Updated
EDITORIAL
LOCAL FISH FROM LOCAL FISHERMEN
Fresh Local Seafood on the docks in Point Loma
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Eating Well |
The Uncook Book Tips for being ready to eat BY MARIA HESSE
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Join us online by tagging your food photos with #ediblesdiscooking on Instagram. We love seeing how diverse and delicious the food is on your table!
Five Ways to Master Uncooking Your appetite may be big but your motivation for making a big meal is zero. Ideally, we don’t want to have to spend too much time using complicated recipes or buying excessive ingredients to have variety in most of what we eat. Here are five things to consider when trying to whip up something easy.
Advance Prep and Icebox Salads Always keep a decent extra-virgin olive oil and vinegar combination that you love, or a preferred salad dressing to drizzle over a handful of leafy greens so that you actually enjoy the salad. Try to eat at least one big bowl per day. Whether you are stocking up on fresh produce through a CSA, farmers’ market, grocery store, or Costco, commit time on shopping day to wash, prep, and store fresh produce when it comes home to make a prep line for your fridge. Prepped produce should be stored in separate containers that can be grabbed quickly and supplemented in different meals throughout the week. Look up practices to store food safely and different techniques for lasting freshness, like storing sliced celery in water to keep it crisp for up to a month. Try the same with stem bouquets of fresh herbs like parsley and cilantro in
I STO C K /A R X0 N T
hen COVID-19 closures went into effect earlier this year, it was interesting to observe what food items were left in markets after the clearout. While nonperishables, consumer packaged goods, and toilet paper had been wiped out, many fresh produce items remained well stocked. Independent stores like Small Goods in La Jolla and Jimbo’s in Del Mar opened up their sidewalks to the farmers and vendors that suddenly had no place to sell their goods since farmers’ markets had closed. Restaurants started selling clever survival kits that offered pantry staples, craft beer, hand sanitizer, and rolls of toilet paper. Exposed to the insecurities of our conventional food sources, consumers flocked to the fresh aisles and subscribed to communitysupported agriculture. Innovative businesses like Market Box SD made it easier than ever to get seasonal produce from local farms like J.R. Organics. (There’s currently a produce box available on their website that will cost less than two value meals.) And that renewed interest you felt to grow and cook your own food again was driven by our most basic of needs: food security. And then we spent months cooking, and cooking, and cooking. Now, it’s hot, and we are adjusting to challenging and changing environments, social and political climates, and economic stress—and we’re spending more time at home than ever before. Making the most with what we have is different for everyone, but we wanted to bring together a quick compilation of reliable cooking tips, techniques, flavor combinations, and recipes to inspire healthy mealtime solutions that bring joy to our day and come together in a matter of minutes. It also happens to be the peak of summer, a time when you might need to plan for canning, preserving, fermenting, or quick pickling. We’ve found it’s easier to keep up with the pace of life when we’ve done a little extra food prep; baking off a block of tofu or some chicken will come to the rescue when the need for a ready-to-eat meal arises. Many of San Diego’s small farmers, cooks, writers, and celebrities answered the call to help create this issue filled with special recipes. We’ve also selected a couple summer specials from our ediblesandiego.com archives that have never been in print. With that in mind, we encourage you to be adventurous with the meals you put together. We’re not throwing a dinner party— we’re feeding busy families and our community with a glimpse of realistic and flexible dishes to make for those times when you simply don’t feel like cooking.
To rinse off dirt and kill bacteria, wash fresh produce in a solution of three parts cool water and one part distilled white vinegar. Fill up a salad spinner and give everything a good soak for about 30 minutes. Alternatively, a saltwater solution ratio of one teaspoon salt diluted in one cup warm water and cooled makes a good vegetable wash for leafy greens and berries, especially those prone to little farm friends like worms.
the fridge—they’ll keep your kitchen smelling fragrant too. Seeds, nuts, and dried fruits from the pantry add texture, flavor, healthy fats, and protein, while pickled and fermented veg or eggs will add an extra layer of tang. Don’t forget deli-style salads. Various vintage versions of icebox recipes with mid-20th-century origins combine canned vegetables and mayonnaise, but the principle technique of preparing an icebox salad (in my opinion) is to throw a bunch of stuff together that can chill in the fridge and somehow manage to taste even better the next day or two, if not longer. You can steam fish in under 10 minutes, chill it, and dress it with quick-pickled onions, tomatillos or tomatoes, cilantro, lime juice, chiles, salt, pepper, and extra-virgin olive oil for a quick fish salad. Much like a poke or ceviche, it is effortless to indulge in with tortilla chips or crackers for a couple of days, or add it to a green salad or a bowl of rice. Try something similar with canned tuna if that’s all you have, or riced cauliflower or slightly mashed cooked beans for plant-based alternatives. It’s also fun to be nostalgic and bring back dishes like grandma’s macaroni salad, coleslaw, and retro recipes that bring us comfort in memories.
Make a Sandwich, Burrito, Quesadilla, Pizza, or Tacos With What You Have Prep and cook time 2–30 minutes Serves one to many
It seems so basic and universal, yet I recently found myself teaching a teenager to smear peanut butter and jelly on two pieces of bread as if it were a life skill. And it is. Sandwiches can be as elaborate as they are utilitarian, and are iconic to chefs and cultures from around the world. I have to consider there might be someone who doesn’t like sandwiches, but I beg you to try them again. Accommodating all dietary interests and restrictions can be met with any variety of breads or substitutes. While you should be able to master sandwich making without much guidance, we can confirm that toasting or grilling almost always adds an extra touch of love. Making quesadillas will require a few quick minutes in a skillet but it’s so simple even kids can do it—and adults like it too. Heat a skillet over medium heat, add tortilla of choice, top with grated cheese (or plant-based version), and add in almost any ready-made item or veggies you’d like. Hummus works great as a binder instead of cheese. Dress it up with salsa and guacamole or keep it old school and enjoy the pleasant combo of hot melty cheese with a warm tortilla. The same goes for the idea of a pizza: an open-faced base for melting cheese on sauce, garnished with an assortment of fresh veg, in the oven or grill. You can also make quesadillas
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I STO C K / O K S A N A K I I A N
minutes while you arrange the fillings in the center and should be perfectly pliable once you are ready to roll. Bundle it up like a burrito and be careful not to overstuff it. Cold vermicelli noodle bowls are another favorite Asian staple, and making your own is basically foolproof in under 10 minutes. The thin rice noodles cook in a three-minute bath of hot water, and while they taste great served more traditionally with lemongrass-scented meats and bundles of fresh mint doused in fish sauce, they’re flexible with whatever else you have. Japanese soba noodles made with buckwheat flour also make for a refreshing take on pasta salad with a gingery soy and citrus dressing. If you need something hot even Packaged rice paper sheets and vermicelli noodles can be found at most Asian though it’s warm out, I can tell you grocery stores. Look for them at 99 Ranch Market, Mitsuwa Marketplace, and that when I was growing up, we had a Thuan Phat Supermarket. Pick up a few dipping sauces and fresh vegetables rice cooker that always kept a hot pot while you are there. of rice. Grab a couple scoops, add a few toppings like tuna salad, pickled and pizzas on a baking stone in a grill or smoker if you have one daikon, and furikake and call it a meal. and want to do something extra on the weekend. I’ve dressed up Grazing Boards a tortilla like a pizza, baked it, and called it a pizzadilla. There’s also no shame in garnishing the frozen family-size organic cheese Pile a variety of nourishing nibbles on a platter like chopped veg, pizza from Trader Joe’s with radish slices, green onion, and fresh and dried fruits, olives, mini sandwiches, cheese, and nuts chopped cilantro, and doing so makes it that much better. and make a meal out of snacks. Assembled and left out midday, Tacos are perhaps the most perfect quick fix meal, or at least it makes it easy for the whole family to grab bites as needed. I’ve never met a taco I didn’t like. You can get creative with your taco shells too, with thin slices of jicama or butter lettuce leaf Prep, Extra Batches, and Leftovers Is Key cups in place of tortillas. And we all know you can’t beat the Really, we want to think about making food that can stretch portability of a burrito. dollars, fulfill appetites, and trigger happiness in each day. Pick two to three things to make in a week that you can cook Summer Roll or Bowl With It a big batch of and look forward to having in a sandwich, taco, Prep and cook time 5–30 minutes salad, or rice bowl. You get to decide what works best for you; Serves one to many maybe it’s Instant Pot carnitas or one of those savory roasted You might already be a fan of the fresh rolls at your favorite watermelons that I am desperate to try. Make the most out of all Vietnamese restaurant. The translucent and chewy rice paper of it with a rotation of healthy sauces and condiments like salsa, wrapped around variations of fresh veggies, shrimp, pork, tofu, guacamole, and cashew cream. and glass noodles satisfies all cravings for cool and refreshing eats. Many of our favorite local restaurants are adapting to current The technique is thought to have originated in Vietnam, but times and making family meals, ready-made items, and kits you might find the popular menu item offered at other Asian available for takeout or delivery—which is perfect because it restaurants. Rice paper is a staple in our house, and we’ve made means even less cooking. Yay. a habit of rolling up whatever fresh veg we have on hand in rice If and where you can, choose whole foods over processed paper and dipping it in a quick peanut, almond, or dumpling foods, eat more vegetables and fruits than meat, and buy sauce. Kids especially love having the hands-on opportunity for organic when possible—purchasing directly from a local farmer, water play with their food. fisherman, or business is a better way to vote with your fork. Simply soften a sheet of rice paper in room temperature Meal planning is about being mindful of our food choices, water. Some recipes suggest hot water, but I find that can lead wasting less, and getting the most joy and nourishment out of it. to overcooking and breakage. Once wet, rice paper may still We live in the best place in the world for food lovers and we feel slightly stiff, but it will continue to soften for a couple of hope you find more ways to love it as much as we do.
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Eating Well |
Let’s Go Nuts
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ho knew soaked cashews could be so delicious? I put cashew cream on everything from pasta to baked sweet potatoes with pesto to salads, and I even use it to make dips. The flexibility of cashew cream is never-ending and the method works well other nuts, like macadamias and almonds. With the addition of a variety of fresh herbs and flavors including za’atar with scallions, garlic, and lemon, honey-sesame, and even strawberry-lime, it was all so good—leading to this compilation of cashew cream recipes. Strain the nut cream in cheesecloth or reduce the water content and you have a base for a nut cheese or spread, like in the version from The Mexican Keto Cookbook (Ten Speed Press, 2019) by Torie Borrelli, a local integrative holistic nutritionist. Or add in fresh herbs and jalapeños like chef Claudia Sandoval does for a zingy dip. Remember I said you can try this cashew cream technique with almost any nut or seed and get similar results? We’ve got a hemp milk recipe here for you too. Plant-based dairy can easily do all the things we want it to.
BASIC CASHEW CREAM MAKES 3 CUPS
1½ cups raw cashews 1½ cups water 1 tablespoon nutritional yeast 1 teaspoon–½ tablespoon salt* *Try using kosher, sea salt, or pink Himalayan varieties and adjust to taste preference. In a large bowl, soak cashews in water for 30 minutes. Transfer to a blender or food processor and blitz until smooth and creamy (1 to 3 minutes), pausing occasionally to scrape down the sides. Keeps well covered in the fridge for about a week. TIP: For a buttery basic cashew cream, add 1 teaspoon turmeric powder and ½ teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper to the recipe above. The result is unbelievable on pasta. 10
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ERIC WOLFINGER
BY MARIA HESSE
TORIE BORRELLI’S VEGAN CASHEW SPREAD MAKES 1 CUP
1 cup raw cashews ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed 2–3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar ¼ cup nutritional yeast ¼ teaspoon turmeric powder ½ teaspoon smoked paprika 2 cloves garlic, peeled In a large bowl, cover the cashews with cold filtered water and salt. Make sure the cashews are covered by 2 inches of water. Top with a dish towel and leave to soak for a minimum of 6 hours, or overnight. The cashews will soak up a ton of water, so make sure your bowl is big enough. Drain and rinse the soaked nuts to remove the taste of salt. Place the soaked cashews in a blender or food processor and add the lime juice, vinegar, nutritional yeast, turmeric, paprika, garlic, and enough fresh water to just cover the cashews. Blend until the mixture is smooth. If you want to use this as a crema, stir in hot water until the desired consistency is achieved. Season with more salt. Store in the fridge for 3 to 5 days. If you want to spice it up, add 1 to 2 canned chipotles in adobo sauce plus 2 teaspoons of sauce from the can. You can also add ½ teaspoon chili powder. Reprinted from The Mexican Keto Cookbook. Copyright © 2019 by Torie Borrelli. Photographs copyright © 2019 by Eric Wolfinger. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC.
C R E A M Y C A S H E W JA L A P E Ñ O D I P MAKES 3 CUPS
2 cups raw cashews 1 bunch cilantro, bottom stems removed 1–2 jalapeños, stems removed 3 cloves garlic, peeled 1 cup water 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 tablespoon kosher salt In a medium saucepan, boil cashews for 15 minutes in about 3 cups of water or until doubled in size. Remove from heat, rinse, and drain. Add all ingredients to a blender or food processor and blend until creamy and smooth. Add more salt, jalapeños, and lemon juice to taste. Serve alongside crudités or tortilla chips. Provecho! Recipe by Claudia Sandoval, February 26, 2020, chefclaudiasandoval.com/lacocina
QUICK AND REFRESHING HEMP MILK MAKES 2 CUPS
This plant-based milk alternative is great for summer smoothies. Quin Butler from Hungry Vegan Lion shared this version that she uses to make her famous vegan berry ice cream. 2 tablespoons hemp seeds 1 tablespoon agave C L AU D I A S A N D OVA L , I STO C K / L I N DA R AY M O N D
⅛ teaspoon salt 2 cups spring water Add ingredients to a blender and blend on high for 2 minutes. That’s it.
Hemp seeds are a superfood with a good balance of beneficial fats and omega fatty acids. They are packed with protein, fiber, vitamins, and minerals, and reduce inflammation while boosting brain health and supporting weight management. Hemp is also the fastest growing crop in the US.
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Picked for Summer Fresh garden and farm harvests inspire us to make colorful salads with our favorite melons, cucumbers, and even cucamelons.
WAT E R M E LO N “ N AC H O S ” SERVES 4
This playful recipe swaps in sweet watermelon for tortilla chips and salty cotija for nacho cheese to create a refreshing take on triangular treats. ¾ cup white vinegar ½ cup water ⅓ cup sugar 1 tablespoon salt 1 jalapeño, sliced into thin rounds 1½ cups fresh corn kernels (cut from about 2 to 2½ ears) 1 small watermelon, cut into 2–3 inch triangles Chile-lime seasoning* or Tajín Cotija, crumbled or grated 1 lime, cut into wedges In a small mixing bowl, combine vinegar, water, sugar, and salt and stir until dissolved. Add jalapeño and corn to a sealable jar and pour the salt and sugar brine over it. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Assemble the nachos: On a serving platter, arrange watermelon in an overlapping pattern. Sprinkle with chile-lime seasoning, a dusting of cotija, and spoon over pickled corn and jalapeños. Serve with lime wedges on the side. *Find a recipe for homemade chile-lime seasoning on ediblesandiego.com.
Aside from being undeniably refreshing, melons have a great nutritional profile. One cup of cantaloupe boasts nearly enough vitamin A and C to meet the recommended daily intake. Watermelon contains very few calories and is a good source of the amino acid citrulline and the antioxidant lycopene, both of which offer numerous health benefits. 12
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O L I V I A H AYO
Recipe by Olivia Hayo published August 15, 2019 on ediblesandiego.com
AVO CA D O A N D H E R B AG UAC H I L E
C U C U M B E R M E LO N S A L A D
SERVES 1
SERVES 4
Jen Phillips, Gracey Lane Farm, and chef Carlo Guardado, Small Town, are neighbors in Fallbrook, making for a perfect friendship. Phillips brought Guardado freshly harvested cucamelons and citrus to inspire this dish.
Juicy melon and crisp cucumbers are dressed with fresh lime juice and sesame oil for an unexpected, toasty twist.
½ ripe cantaloupe, rind removed, cut into bite-size pieces
1⅛ cups lime juice
1 lime, juiced
¼ cup lemon juice
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup orange juice
1 teaspoon flaky sea salt
1 serrano chile, seeds removed
½ teaspoon sesame oil
½ bunch cilantro with stems
⅓ cup crumbled feta
½ cup sugar
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Handful fresh mint leaves
1 avocado, diced Assorted seasonal ingredients for garnish
J E N P H I L L I P S , O L I V I A H AYO
3 Persian cucumbers, cut into bite-size pieces
Make the dressing: Chill citrus, serrano, and cilantro before adding all of them to a blender with sugar and salt; and purée until smooth. Pass through a fine mesh strainer to remove large pieces (optional). Store in the refrigerator until ready to serve. Make the aguachile by drizzling the dressing over the diced avocado on a plate.
Place cucumbers and cantaloupe in a large bowl. Add lime juice, olive oil, salt, and sesame oil to the bowl. Toss to coat and let marinate for 10 to 15 minutes. Plate the salad and top with crumbled feta, red pepper flakes, and fresh mint leaves. Recipe by Haley Hazell published August 18, 2019 on ediblesandiego.com
Top it off with seasonal ingredients. Chef Guardado plated this extravagant beauty (above) with pinto beans, chickpeas, spiced peanuts, supreme-cut citrus, sweet chile slices, cucamelons, radish, fresh coriander seeds, dill and citrus blossoms, lemon verbena, fresh oregano, thyme, and chile oil.
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Seafood City
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rom super easy to a little more elevated, these recipes offer alluring ways to get hooked on local catch. Try buying fish directly off the boat at Tuna Harbor Dockside Market every Saturday morning or check out local retailers like Point Loma Seafoods and Catalina Offshore Products—or go catch your own. You can also order direct from Saraspe Seafood and Haworth Fishing for delivery.
Y E L L OW TA I L T I R A D I T O SERVES 2
By Michael Aaron Gardiner Raw fish dishes are ubiquitous in Baja—from mariscos stands and food truck parks to highend Cali-Baja restaurants. Chefs of the Cali-Baja and Baja Med movement, though, have elevated these dishes beyond their ceviche origins by introducing flavors and techniques from Italy, Japan, and Peru. Miguel Angel Guerrero at La Querencia restaurant in Rosarito and Tijuana was the first to turn me on to it; then Benito Molina and Solange Muris in their Ensenada restaurant Manzanilla perhaps set the bar. This take on “uncooking” is inspired by their work. 2 large red beets 1–2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 ear corn, husks and silks removed Pinch kosher salt, plus more to taste 1 tablespoon ají amarillo purée* (see note below) 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice, divided 5 tablespoons chicken stock 1 tablespoon soy sauce ½–¾ pound sashimi-grade hamachi loin (yellowtail or hiramasa), skinned and filleted Microgreens (cilantro, radish, beet, arugula, basil, or other) or fresh cilantro leaves to garnish Roast the beets: Preheat oven to 375°. Coat beets lightly with olive oil, wrap in aluminum foil, place on a baking sheet, and roast in the oven until cooked through, approximately 45 to 60 minutes. Remove beets from the oven, unwrap, and place in the refrigerator to cool. Peel beets when cool and the skins should slip right off. Char the corn: Use the microwave/blowtorch method by cooking corn ear in the microwave oven on high for 2 minutes, turn, and microwave 2 more minutes. Once 14
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cooked, use a blowtorch to scorch the corn’s surface, turning the ear to make sure all sides are charred. Alternatively, char the corn directly on the flame of a gas stove or grill, turning frequently. Make the tiradito: Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil, add yellow bell pepper, and boil for 15 minutes. Remove pepper from the pot and let cool before peeling the skin off. Place peeled pepper in a food processor with a pinch of kosher salt and process until smooth. Add ají amarillo purée, garlic, lemon juice, 2 tablespoons lime juice, chicken stock, and soy sauce and pulse until puréed. Set sauce aside. Trim yellowtail loin into sashimi-thin pieces, about 1½ inches by ¾ inch in size. Using a very sharp and long knife, slice the fish on a slight bias toward the narrow end and lay the slices on a plate; sprinkle lightly with kosher salt. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Cut beet down to ½-inch dice. Cut charred corn off the ear. To serve: Arrange yellowtail slices in a circular pattern on four plates. Spoon sauce around and over the yellowtail. Divide and top each plate with beet cubes and corn kernels and garnish with microgreens or cilantro leaves. *Find ají amarillo purée at Northgate Markets or Andrés Latin Market.
NANCY GARDINER
1 yellow bell pepper, seeds and stem removed
D U E L I N G PAC I F I C RO C K F I S H C E V I C H E
the outside is opaque and firm, approximately 20 to 30 minutes. (For a more well-done ceviche, marinate the fish in the citrus juices for 1 to 2 hours.)
SERVES 4
By Alison Rowe Let the flavorful notes of pineapple and mint or mango and cilantro duel it out for best summer ceviche. It’s the perfect way to enjoy locally caught Pacific rockfish. 4 limes
P i n e a p p l e , C u c u m b e r, and Mint
½ navel orange
½ cup diced fresh pineapple
1 pound Pacific rockfish, skinned and deboned
¾–1 cup diced pickling cucumber ½ cup minced red onion
Pinch salt, 1 large avocado, tortilla chips, to serve
½ serrano chile, seeds removed and thinly sliced
Juice three limes and the navel orange half and combine juices in a large glass bowl. Cut the remaining lime into wedges for garnish.
ERIK BALDWIN
Once the fish is ready, drain and reserve marinating juices, then transfer fish to a bowl with your choice of:
Cut the fish into ½-inch cubes. Mix diced fish with lime and orange juices to evenly coat each piece of fish. Cover and refrigerate while preparing the rest of the remaining ingredients. The fish should marinate in the citrus juices until
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, plus leaves for garnish Combine all ingredients in a large glass bowl and mix well. (Note: This ceviche is best enjoyed immediately after the fish is mixed with the pineapple. Natural enzymes in pineapple soften the fish over time.)
M a n g o , R e d B e l l P e p p e r, and Cilantro 1 mango, peeled and diced 1 large red bell pepper, seeds removed and diced ½ cup minced red onion 1 jalapeño, seeds removed and minced (or half if it’s extra spicy) 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, plus leaves for garnish Combine all ingredients in a large glass bowl and mix well. Finish ceviche by adding 2 to 3 tablespoons of the reserved marinating juices to the fish and ceviche mix of choice and gently toss to combine. Season with salt to taste. Garnish with mint or cilantro leaves and serve with lime wedges, avocado, and tortilla chips. Double the rockfish and citrus juices if you want to try both ceviche recipes at the same time. Let us know which one is better.
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B U C K Y ’ S Y E L L OW TA I L S A S H I M I SERVES 2
“Neither Bucky Lasek nor I are professional chefs, but we are professional eaters that have bonded over our love for fishing and enjoying our fresh catch. This sashimi recipe features fresh yellowtail Lasek caught in Baja waters and seasonal ingredients from our farm. We hope you enjoy this recipe as we do with our friends and family. Try it and trust us—it will make you look like a pro.” —Jen Phillips, Gracey Lane Farm 1 Meyer lemon ½ pound sashimi-grade yellowtail 1 serrano chile, thinly sliced Pinch sea salt Pinch black Hawaiian sea salt Wasabi and Sriracha chili sauce, to serve Tamari or soy sauce, to serve (optional) Tip: Before making the sashimi, soak thinly sliced serrano chiles in pickling juice for 30 minutes. Find a pickling recipe from the Culinary Gardener, Ellyse Briand and Jen Phillips, Gracey Lane Farm on ediblesandiego.com.
With a very sharp knife, slice the yellowtail sashimi-style. Drizzle lemon juice over sashimi slices and top each piece with a quartered slice of lemon. Sprinkle pinches of sea salt and black Hawaiian salt and add a slice of serrano to each piece. Squeeze a small drop of wasabi and Sriracha on top to finish. Devour as is or serve with tamari or soy sauce for dipping. 16
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ERIK BALDWIN
Cut the Meyer lemon in half. Juice half and reserve; quarter and thinly slice the other half.
J O H N PA R K ’ S Q U I C K P O K E
BEST TUNA SAL AD
SERVES 1
SERVES 4
The guy behind the simple genius of Fish 101 in Cardiff and Leucadia knows how to throw together a poke bowl. This is the version he makes at home.
1 pound albacore tuna, steamed and chilled*
4–6 ounces sashimi-grade bigeye tuna
⅓ cup chopped fresh dill
1–2 tablespoons thinly sliced scallions and sweet onions
⅓ cup chopped scallions
1 teaspoon grated ginger
6 tablespoons Kewpie mayonnaise (Japanese mayo)
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 dill pickles, diced
1 teaspoon sesame oil
Splash dill pickle juice
Pinch sesame seeds
Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste
Pinch red pepper flakes
*If fresh tuna isn’t available, use 3 5-ounce cans albacore tuna in water, drained.
Hawiian sea salt to taste ½ cup cooked rice I STO C K / N ATA L I I A S H C H E R BY N A
½ cup diced celery
With a sharp knife, dice tuna into ½-inch cubes. In a medium bowl, mix together onions, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil, sesame seeds, and red pepper flakes. Adjust to taste. Add tuna and lightly fold until each bite is coated, and finish with a dash of sea salt. Best served chilled over a warm scoop of rice.
Mix it all up, that’s it. Makes a perfect tuna melt or keep it in the fridge for snack time with crackers and crudités. Recipe by Sam Zien, thecookingguy.com
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Partner Content |
Preserve the Harvest What do you get with two days and... 8 ½ pounds homegrown pluots 5 enormous lemons 6 ½ pounds sugar 2 humongous pots 15 canning jars, lids, and rings + countless gallons of water? 15 8-ounce jars of yummy pluot jam. What an exhausting weekend canning pluot jam! Those two days of canning gave me even more respect for farm families who spend spring planting their vegetable gardens, summer tending the gardens, then late summer preserving their produce for winter. Just a handful of jam jars seemed like a huge amount of work; putting up enough food to last a household through winter is an unfathomable task and fortunately one I don’t have to do. Still, my vegetable garden produces much more than my family can keep up with, so preserving the harvest is important in my house. We can’t get enough of the garlicky kosher dills I make using homegrown cucumbers and my Russian grandmother’s recipe. I freeze tomatoes whole in zip-top freezer bags, then use the tomatoes through the year in soups, sauces, stews, and my favorite dish—shakshuka. Stone fruits get pitted and frozen, too, plus dill and parsley to use in soups and in stuffing. I freeze hot peppers, then shave off bits as needed to give dishes an extra punch. The basics of preserving food involves fermenting, pickling, dehydrating, salting, and canning, and you can see these methods in one of my favorite episodes of A Growing Passion, “Preserve the Harvest.” In that episode, I got to work alongside local chefs and experts who taught me to make dishes like fruit kimchi, Moroccan preserved lemons, tomato jam, and a diversity of pickled vegetables. I’m heading back into the garden now for late summer tomato harvest. I think I’ll make an amazing tomato jam. Or maybe I’ll pick and dry Anasazi beans to make chili this winter. Or maybe more pickling cucumbers are ready. Or...? 18
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Watch episodes of A Growing Passion at 8:30pm on KPBS TV in San Diego, or watch episodes online anytime at agrowingpassion.com. Follow A Growing Passion on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter for a behindthe-scenes look at new episodes.
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edible san diego Local Monday
Escondido—Welk Resort √† 8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. 3–7pm 760-651-3630
Tuesday Clairemont √
2550 Fairfield St 3–6 pm, pickup only Place orders at onthegofarmersmarket.com by Monday at 3pm 619-550-718
Enjoy the Open Air Wednesday
Thursday
501 W. Date St. 9am–1pm 619-233-3901
2885 Lemon Grove Ave. 3–7pm 619-813-9148
Little Italy Wednesday √*†
Lemon Grove √*
Ocean Beach √
Linda Vista √*†
Coronado √
Santee *†
North Park Thursday √*†
Escondido √*
South Bay √
Oceanside Morning √*
1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing 2:30–6pm 760-741-3763 262 East Grand Ave. 2:30–7pm (2:30–6pm Oct to May) 760-480-4101
Mira Mesa √*
10510 Reagan Rd. 2:30–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter) 858-272-7054
Otay Ranch—Chula Vista √
2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd. 4–8pm 619-279-0032
Pacific Beach Tuesday √† Bayard & Garnet 2–7pm 619-233-3901
4900 block of Newport Ave. 4–8pm 619-279-0032 Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd. 3–7pm (2:30–6:30pm winter) 619-449-8427 4475 Bonita Rd. 3–7pm Place orders at onthegofarmersmarket.com by Tuesday at 3pm 619-550-7180
State Street in Carlsbad Village √ State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 3–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter) 858-272-7054
Temecula—Promenade √*
40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s 9am–1pm 760-728-7343
People’s Produce Night Market √ 5010 Market St. 5–8pm 619-813-9148
San Marcos √
1035 La Bonita Dr. 3–7pm 858-272-7054
UCSD Town Square √
UCSD Campus, Town Square 10am–2pm, Sept to June 858-534-4248
Vail Headquarters √* 32115 Temecula Pkwy. 9am–1pm 760-728-7343 22
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6939 Linda Vista Rd. 3–7pm (2–6pm winter) 760-504-4363 2900 North Park Way 3–6pm 619-550-7180
Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101 9am–1pm 760-791-3241
Rancho Bernardo √ 16535 Via Esprillo 11am–1:30pm 619-279-0032
Friday
Bernardo Winery √
13330 Paseo del Verano Norte 9am–1pm 760-500-1709
Borrego Springs √
EAT the most delicious californiagrown fruits and vegGIES 7 days a week
700 Palm Canyon Dr. 7am–noon, Oct to Apr 760-767-5555
Horton Plaza Lunch Market 225 Broadway Circle 11am–2pm 619-795-3363
Imperial Beach √*†
10 Evergreen Ave. 2–7pm (2–6pm winter) info@imperialbeachfarmersmarket.org
La Mesa Village √*
La Mesa Blvd. btwn Palm & 4th St. 3–7pm, year-round 619-795-3363
Markets Guide Cook All Weekend
Saturday
find the freshest local catch
City Heights √*†!
Pacific Beach √
Temecula—Old Town √*
Del Mar √
Poway √*
Tuna Harbor Dockside Market
Little Italy Mercato à
Rancho Penasquitos
Vista √*†
Wightman St. btwn Fairmount & 43rd St. 9am–1pm 760-504-4363
4150 Mission Blvd. 8am–noon 760-741-3763
1050 Camino Del Mar 1–4pm 858-465-0013
Sixth & Front St. 8am–12:30pm 760-728-7343
14134 Midland Rd. 8am–1pm 619-249-9395
600 W. Date St. 8am–2pm 619-233-3901
879 West Harbor Dr. Port of San Diego 8am–1pm 325 Melrose Dr. 8am–noon 760-945-7425
9400 Fairgrove Ln. 9am–1pm 858-484-8788
Support local growers and businesses
Sunday
Murrieta √*
Hillcrest √*
3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts. 9am–2pm 619-237-1632
Village Walk Plaza I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks & Kalmia 9am–1pm 760-728-7343
La Jolla Open Aire √
North San Diego / Sikes Adobe à
Girard Ave. & Genter 9am–1pm 858-454-1699
12655 Sunset Dr. 10:30am–3:30pm 858-735-5311
Leucadia √*
21887 Washington St. Noon–4pm 760-782-9202
Solana Beach √
Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village √
185 Union St. & Vulcan St. 10am–2pm 858-272-7054
Santa Ysabel √
410 South Cedros Ave. Noon–4pm 858-755-0444
16077 San Dieguito Rd. 9:30am–2pm 619-743-4263
cultivate community DUE TO COVID-19: Markets shown in gray are temporarily closed and all listings are subject to change. Please contact markets directly to confirm hours of operation and locations.
Visit ediblesandiego.com and click on “Resources” for more complete information and links to market websites.
* M arket vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children) Farmers’ Market checks. † Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer). ! Market vendors accept WIC Fruit and Vegetable checks. √ Indicates markets certified by the San Diego County Agriculture Commissioner, ensuring that the produce is grown by the seller or another certified farmer in California, and meets all state quality standards. Temecula markets and the Murrieta market are certified by the Riverside County Agricultural Commissioner.
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Prep |
How to Make Fritters Out of (Almost) Anything BY MICHELLE STANSBURY
B
efore the uncertainty around COVID-19, I bought fresh produce twice weekly for plant-based meals. After the shelter-at-home order, I would stand in front of my cupboard looking at my shelf of nonperishables to figure out what to make for dinner. The first week, I made a bag of lentils and ended up with seven cups, which is a lot for one person to get through without boredom. I unenthusiastically threw the last remaining lentils in a bowl with an egg and some flour, formed it into misshapen patties, and baked them into fritters. Not bad. The next attempt got some garlic and cheese—even better. Fritters became my COVID comfort food and low-waste savior. Leftover Indian food? Palak paneer fritters. Wilted leeks? Fritters! On the first day of summer, sweet corn fritters seemed an apt way to celebrate. The most audacious fritter attempt made use of leftover pulp from a batch of homemade vegetable stock. The fibrous mess was made up of carrot tops and old spinach, onions that had started to sprout, and beet greens. I cut it all up with scissors, mixed it with the usual egg and flour, threw the patties on the stove, and waited. My kitchen smelled of desperation, but once the edges of the fritters were brown and crispy I realized that you can make fritters out of just about anything—especially if you top them with garlic herb cream cheese.
Start with veg
Add deliciousness Many fritters have some sort of cheese, which can be anything from mild mozzarella to sharp cheddar or even crumbled goat cheese. If you have strong flavors in your base or herbs, opt for a milder cheese. Parmesan cheese gets nice and crispy due to the low moisture content, and the flavor works, or avoid dairy by leaving the cheese out. Any favorite fresh herbs or dried spices, from rosemary to cilantro to cumin, add to the party, as does quickly sautéed minced garlic or diced shallots.
Baked versus pan-fried If your goal is to sneak veggies into a delicious snack, pan-frying gets them crispy and decadent. You only need a few tablespoons of oil for a shallow fry, heated until the fritters sizzle in the pan. The healthier option is to bake them; this reduces extra oil and I’ve found it also helps fritters keep their consistency longer. This means I can pop them in the fridge and reheat as an easy snack for several days.
Don’t forget dip Topping my fritters with dip didn’t occur to me until I needed to improve a lackluster batch (my vegetable stock sludge), but now I don’t leave it off. Creamy sauces work best: Try using a base of Greek yogurt stirred with harissa or pesto. A homemade lemon aioli is versatile and balances savory fritters while ready-made hummus, ranch dressing, or creamy artichoke dips will also do the trick.
M I C H E L L E STA N S B U RY
Use any vegetable as the base for delicious fritters and mix in flour and egg, approximately 1 egg to ¼ cup flour and ½ cup vegetables, depending on moisture content. Sweet potatoes and carrots can be grated and added straight into the mix. The same goes for broccoli, spinach, and leeks cut up into small pieces. Corn off the cob works great, but if you use frozen corn, make sure to
defrost the kernels first. Zucchini and squash, however, need to be drained after chopping or grating to remove excess water. For legumes and leftovers, there is some trial and error that goes into finding the right moisture content—add a little extra flour and hope for the best.
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