Edible San Diego Full Circle Spring 2022 Issue 65 by Edible San Diego

NO. 65 SPRING 2022

EAT • DRINK • READ • GROW

LIMITED EDITION

edible

SAN DIEGO

FULL CIRCLE A SPECIAL FEATURE ISSUE SERVING SAN DIEGO COUNTY | MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES | EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM

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Breathtaking Views, Uniquely California Cuisine For Every Occasion

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1980 KETTNER BLVD | SAN DIEGO, CA 92101 (619) 736–5077

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SAN DIEGO’S PREMIER PLANT-BASED RESTAURANT

SPRING 2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 1

Spring 2022

CONTENTS

Issue 65

IN THIS ISSUE

O N T H E COV E R

DE PART MENTS

The paddle of a cactus, prickly pear, nopal, or Opuntia cacti, also known as navut by the Cupeño and Luiseño, navit in Cahuilla, and ‘ehpaa in Kumeyaay.

Publisher’s Note

S P E CIAL FEAT URE DEPARTMENTS

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Eating in a Changing Climate Relating to the Land Actions We Can Take Moving Forward

E DIBLE CO MMUNI T I ES S IG N AT URE SECT IO N

38 In Labels We Trust: How Food Certification Labels Can Help Consumers Make Better Choices

The spelling of these names will vary as these languages were meant to be spoken and shared through conversation, not written down. It is from within many conversations throughout time immemorial that these languages have persisted to be passed down generation after generation.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR ON EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM RE AD

T H I S I M AG E

+ New Spring Recipes

“The seed stalk of the white sage plant is like the umbilical cord with the Creator.” —Richard Bugbee More on page 18.

LISTE N

Living Local Podcast W ATCH O N YO UT UB E

• • • • •

Barbecue-Spiced Roast Chicken Beet Carpaccio with Burrata & Pistachios White Bean & Lemon Pepper Tuna Tartine Gluten-Free Tahini Swirl Brownies Mashed Spring Pea Crostini

We greatly appreciate you for reading this special edition. Please subscribe to support San Diego’s only food media company dedicated to promoting the sustainability of what’s edible.

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DEBORAH SMALL

For Organic Use • OMRI.org

Success Starts With Great Soil G&B Organics Soils & Fertilizers are made from quality ingredients that build life in the soil for gardening success.

Available ONLY at Independent Garden Centers Dixieline Lumber & Home Center - La Mesa

Dixieline Lumber & Home Center - Solana Beach

Dixieline Lumber & Home Center - Rancho San Diego

Kniffing’s Nursery

8372 Center Drive La Mesa, CA. 91942 (619) 465-4242

3607 Avocado Blvd. La Mesa, CA 91941 (619) 670-5600

663 Lomas Santa Fe Dr. Solana Beach, CA 92075 (858) 755-0246 14940 Oak Creek Rd El Cajon, CA 92021 (619) 561-0611

Grangettos - Encinitas

Grangettos - Fallbrook

Grangettos - Escondido

Grangettos Valley Center

189 S Rancho Santa Fe Encinitas, CA 92024 (760) 944-5777 1105 West Mission Escondido, CA 92025 (760) 745-4671

GB-Organics.com

530 E Alvarado Street Fallbrook, CA 92028 (760) 728-6127

29219 Juba Road Valley Center, CA 92082 (760) 749-1828

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EDITORIAL

PUBLISHER

Maria Hesse Executive Editor

OPERATIONS

Katie Stokes Editor in Chief

Dawn Mobley Copy Editor

Rose Fox

Associate Editor

DESIGN

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| Publisher’s Note

We Titled This Special Edition “Full Circle” For Many Reasons BECAUSE THE EARTH ITSELF IS A BEAUTIFUL BIOSPHERE WE ALL DEPEND ON FOR LIFE. BECAUSE OUR JOURNEY AS HUMANS IS CYCLICAL WITH NEW OPPORTUNITIES TO LEARN AND GROW. BECAUSE SO MANY OF THE MOST CURRENT IDEAS ON CLIMATE CHANGE—THAT IS, HOW TO REESTABLISH THE HEALTHY DIVERSITY IN NATURAL SYSTEMS THAT HAVE BEEN DISRUPTED BY HUMAN ACTIVITY—SHARE ELEMENTS FROM THE TRADITIONAL WISDOM OF PEOPLE THAT HAVE LIVED IN WHAT WE NOW CALL SAN DIEGO COUNTY AND NORTHERN BAJA CALIFORNIA FOR TENS OF THOUSANDS OF YEARS.

This special edition unexpectedly came to be through some soul-searching I felt called to do last fall. Everything that was and is going on in the world made me feel like this is a time for less business as usual. Though climate change might seem too big, scary, or abstract to think or do anything about, this magazine that you’re holding has the purpose of offering an opportunity to slow down for a few moments, focus, go deeper, and hopefully discover some new perspectives, new information, and new partners in the work that lies before us. We hope these pages change the subject, figuratively and literally. This issue is neither definitive nor a one-time effort. It will be imperfect, and some might question what we do or don’t include. With respect to all, we aim to open new paths of understanding and connection through this magazine. What motivates this work is better health for all people, the land, and the animals and other creatures we share it with…most immediately in our home region, although these matters manifest all over the planet. Okay, here we go. We’re going to talk about climate change in San Diego County, focusing on the land here, and even more specifically, with regard to our local food system.

Then we zoom in a little more, from two perspectives that offer insights about the land and the food that comes from it. We present regenerative agriculture and the traditional ecological knowledges (TEK) of our region’s Indigenous peoples. Lastly, we take a more up-close-and-personal approach with practical information, tools, and resources to integrate some aspects from the first two sections into our daily lives. This issue requires both trust and boldness of our editorial team and of you. Let’s see where it takes us. Full circle. Katie Stokes Publisher and Editor in Chief, Edible San Diego

PS: As we were conceiving of and preparing this content, many ideas, feelings, and questions presented themselves that didn’t quite fit in with the main features. So we created a space in the issue to hold them—and any that might occur to you—in this lovely blue stream of consciousness that appears at the bottom of each editorial page. Thank you to Kim Reasor for her design of this space. 

Since this is a magazine, and storytelling is our thing, let’s consider the narratives that we are comfortable with and acknowledge that we are undertaking an intentional effort to present other narratives because we need to sort through the attitudes, behaviors, practices, and policies that have led us to where we are. reclaimingnativetruth.com SS PP R R II N NG G 22 0 0 22 22 ||

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Climate Connections From the Land to Our Plates BY D I A N E T E R RY, C L I M AT E S C I E N C E A L L I A N C E

To understand how climate change impacts the food on our plate, we first have to learn about our regional climate and weather, and how climate change and extreme events impact us on a local level. The good news is that you don’t need to be a climate scientist to do this. In fact, you likely already know a lot about our climate just by living in the region. San Diego County has a variety of microclimates determined by our unique topography that spans from the sea to the mountains, creating a complex palette of landscape types. It’s this palette that makes it possible to experience sweetsmelling chaparral, grassy meadows, coastal intertidal zones, and oak woodlands, all in one day. It is also these unique microclimates that create an abundance of agricultural activities that are reflected in every meal. The climate in San Diego County is already a place of extremes and climate change will only exacerbate this. We experience hot, dry summers that put even the most drought-tolerant plants to the test. Mild winters exhibit the greatest yearto-year variation in rainfall of anywhere in the nation. We have warm, dry Santa Ana winds that drive extreme fire events. Amidst these extremes, the low clouds and fog along the coast provide respite for plants, animals, and people during the hottest parts of the summer. Agriculture plays a prominent role in Southern California, holding significant economic, cultural,

Solutions will be fractal. —Paul Hawken

m eeddiibblleessaannddiieeggoo..ccoom

ecological, and historic value. In San Diego County, agricultural lands account for 242,554 acres and collectively boast $1.79 billion annually in economic value to the region. With over 5,000 farms, the county has more farms than any other in the nation and 70% are under 10 acres in size. The diversity of our microclimates is reflected in an impressive variety of specialty crops: Avocados, nursery, and floriculture crops have the highest production value not only in California, but also in the nation. Farmers are experts at adapting to changing conditions, weather variability, and water availability. Climate change will exacerbate these existing challenges and create new ones. We can expect warmer nights in the summer and warmer winters overall as our minimum temperatures increase. The average hottest day of the year could reach 110°–125°F in desert areas and 100°–110°F in coastal areas by the end of the century. Intensified droughts, drier conditions, and water deficits across the entire region are likely—while our average wettest day is expected to increase by up to 30% every five years, reflecting the increasing intensity of precipitation and flooding events. Local agriculture is critical to our food security and economy and also presents opportunities for advancing climate solutions. Across the

What if the ‘environment’ isn’t “out there,” but instead we see ourselves as an inherent part of it?

region, farmers have been pushing forward bold and creative strategies that are not only good for the land, but good for the people who tend to it too. At the helm of this regional movement are the Indigenous peoples—the Cahuilla, Cupeño, Luiseño, and Kumeyaay people—who have stewarded this land since time immemorial, and whose knowledges are critical to advancing climate solutions that keep food on our plates. All of the farms in San Diego County are on the ancestral homelands of the Indigenous first stewards, yet only 1.2% of farmers are Indigenous. Rather than reformatting Indigenous knowledges to fit into agricultural frameworks as we know them, a truly regenerative approach starts with uplifting Indigenous communities already leading the way to demonstrate stewardship strategies that protect people and the land while also addressing climate change. We have an opportunity to embrace working with, supporting, and learning from the leadership, traditional knowledge, and connection to this place from Indigenous practitioners. Learn more about this and Pauma Tribal Farms on page 21.

This is too _ to think about; therefore I don’t want to think about it.

Our climate is controlled by a mixture of gases that act as a blanket surrounding the earth, protecting us from the cold expanse of space that lies beyond. When we burn fossil fuels, we release tiny, invisible gas molecules (greenhouse gases) into the atmosphere. As more of these greenhouse gases are released, they amass over time and create a layer that blankets the earth in heat-trapping gases. As more gases accumulate, more layers of blankets form over the planet and trap more heat, which further throws our ecological systems out of balance. While you might have heard how climate change will impact us on a global scale (e.g., melting icebergs), we can also expect changes right here in our own backyard. So, what happens when our climate changes? Simply put, climate change feeds into extreme events and makes them more frequent and intense. We will experience hotter, drier summers that leave the ground cracked and thirsty, with winters that bring too little rain too late, or too much rain all at once. This process of extreme heat and precipitation events leads to drought and flooding, fuels fires, and impacts air quality. The plants and animals in our region have evolved to handle our local climate; however, the rate at which our climate is changing and becoming more extreme is unprecedented and species are not able to adapt quickly enough. Humans are also vulnerable, and even if we can buffer these impacts in the near term (air conditioners, please), not everyone has that luxury. Eventually, extreme events and the impacts of drought, fire, coastal flooding, and poor air quality will catch up to all of us.

Tell me again, what’s the difference between climate and weather!

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Eating in a changing Climate

CLIMATE CHANGE, MADE SIMPLE

This Is How Climate Change Affects Food Grown in San Diego County Change in temperature will cause significant declines in table grape yields, likely by the end of the century.

When asked how climate change is impacting their crops and livelihood, the overwhelming response from farmers was that they are already seeing impacts across the board, including extreme weather events and variability, drought, temperature changes, precipitation variability, wildfire, and more.

“Farming here is hard. One extreme weather event can erase years of hard work … We get every kind of extreme

Precipitation and flooding events will become more frequent, intense, and variable.

weather event—high winds, extreme heat, freezing, cold,

Annual and daily temperature ranges are increasing and will become more extreme.

Extreme precipitation and flooding events could delay harvesting of strawberries.

and drought.” “Temperatures reached 123°F, turning leaves into potato chips and wiping out our year’s work.”

Wildfires can result in significant losses to avocado crops, which take years to establish.

“In the long term, the region may no longer be viable for some of our current crops,

Large, highintensity fires will increase in frequency.

Carrot crops are sensitive to the reduced water quality and quantity expected in drought conditions.

The number of dry days will increase and become more intense.

such as avocados and wine [grapes].”

SUP·PLY CHAIN /səˈplī CHān/. Noun. 1. the

sequence of processes involved in the production and distribution of a commodity. 8 8

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CARBON FARMING IS A THING.

Climate Change Resources The term climate change involves us in a dynamic, interactive way of relating to our biosphere. There are countless resources for you to delve into these topics. Here are a few suggestions. What are yours?

Read

Climate Hope, Come Rain or Shine Podcast

All We Can Save: Truth, Courage, and Solutions for the Climate Crisis edited by Ayana Elizabeth Johnson and Katharine K. Wilkinson

What You’re Eating Podcast Vibrant Blue Dot by Andrew J. Pittman on YouTube Breaking Boundaries: The Science of Our Planet presented by David Attenborough and Johan Rockström on Netflix Don’t Look Up (disaster/fantasy) directed by Adam McKay on Netflix

Climate Change Influencers @intersectionalenvironmentalist @gretathunberg

Drawdown: The Most Comprehensive Plan Ever Proposed to Reverse Global Warming edited by Paul Hawken

Get Involved Locally & Globally Climate Science Alliance and Climate Kids San Diego Food System Alliance SanDiego350.org Climate Action Campaign Project Drawdown Don’t Look Up Climate Platform

This Changes Everything: Capitalism vs. the Climate by Naomi Klein Climate: A New Story by Charles Eisenstein The Ministry for the Future and New York 2140 (fiction) by Kim Stanley Robinson Finding the Mother Tree by Suzanne Simard

Find this hyperlinked guide on ediblesandiego.com or search for these media titles and organizations online.

How can I make a difference by myself?

What are your favorite podcasts on climate change and food? SSPPRRIIN NG G 22002222 ||

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Eating in a changing Climate

Listen & Watch

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This Land We Live On and Depend On How can we heal it, for its own sake and for ours?

Defining Regenerative Agriculture R E D E F I N I N G O U R S E LV E S

You’ve heard the buzzword sustainable. At Edible San Diego, we’ve certainly been talking about it for years. Over time, it’s become clear that the natural systems that enable us to grow food (soil, air, water, and local communities of plants and animals) have seen more and more damage, so we must go beyond sustaining the status quo to actually repair them. Opinions differ, but if we look at agriculture as an opportunity to not only address climate change, but to support healthy people and healthy natural systems … well, then we’re really on to something good.

Notable Farmers Using Regenerative Agricultural Practices in San Diego County Agrarian Craft Urban Farm - Carlsbad Agua Dulce Farm - South Bay Coastal Roots Farm - Encinitas The Ecology Center - Encinitas/San Juan Capistrano Enjoy the Farm - Valley Center/Encinitas Indian Summer Farm - Escondido Jared’s Real Food - Lakeside Pasturebird - Oak Grove Perennial Pastures Ranch - Santa Ysabel Primal Pastures - Murrieta Rio Del Rey Heirloom Beans - San Luis Rey River Sage Hill Ranch Gardens - Escondido Sand n’ Straw Farm - Vista Solidarity Farm - Pauma Valley Terra Madre Gardens - Escondido

This small herd of cows at Pasturebird supports rotational grazing for chickens.

Wait, you mean sustainability isn’t enough?

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Wild Willow Farm & Education Center - South Bay

This growing list was compiled with help from farmersfootprint.us, an Encinitas-based nonprofit advancing awareness, education, and economy in an effort to increase regenerative farming practices. M A R I A H E SS E

Wendell Berry has called people who dedicate their lives to producing food in ways suited to a particular place “craftsmen of the highest order.” As eaters, our future looks brighter if it’s filled with diverse farmers and ranchers using old and new ways to work with nature.

You are what you eat ... and what your food ate.

Regenerative Ag Resources On Social Media

Call of the Reed Warbler: A New Agriculture, A New Earth by Charles Massy

@soulfirefarm

Farming While Black: Soul Fire Farms Practical Guide to Liberation on the Land by Leah Penniman English Pastoral: An Inheritance by James Rebanks The One-Straw Revolution by Masanobu Fukuoka For the Love of Soil by Nicole Masters Special Report: The Path to Climate Neutrality Is Paved with Food System Solutions by Elly Brown

Get Involved Locally & Globally Regeneration.org

@rodaleinstitute

California Department of Agriculture’s Healthy Soils Program

@organicconsumers @naturesalwaysright

Regenorganic

@regenerationinternational @regenerativefarmersofamerica @sandiegoseedcompany @farmermainguyen

Food Tank 4P1000.org Bioneers Farmer’s Footprint Kiss the Ground Regenerative Organic Alliance

Watch

For the Love of Soil

Fantastic Fungi Biggest Little Farm Clarkson’s Farm

Find this hyperlinked guide on ediblesandiego.com or search for these media titles and organizations online.

Regeneration Regeneration.org aims to be the world’s largest network of solutions to the climate crisis.

Are cows good or bad for the environment?

Are there stories about growing food that have come down through your family? SP PR R II N NG G 2 20 02 22 2 || S

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Relating to the Land

Read

Perspectives on Land and Food From the People Who Have Been Here the Longest B Y A LT H E A W A L K E R , C L I M A T E S C I E N C E A L L I A N C E

Paradigm Shifting in Our Food Systems The concept of a paradigm shift within our food systems is recognizing “the right of peoples to healthy and culturally appropriate food produced through ecologically sound and sustainable methods, and their right to define their own food and agriculture systems. It puts the aspirations and needs of those who produce, distribute, and consume food at the heart of food systems and policies rather than the demands of markets and corporations.” •

Changing the narrative about terms like produce and food.

•

Indigenous peoples are the original regenerative farmers. The Indigenous perspective and approach to regenerative agriculture is not just about farming and grazing practices, but about how we care and tend for the ecosystems all around us. Regenerative farming, from an Indigenous perspective, is a balance of land, animals, plants, water, and humans—the ones who throw this order out of balance. We need to find more ways to live in balance with all ecosystems around us and not just what matters the most to us.

•

We need to see all parts of every ecosystem as interconnected.

•

Prepare mentally, physically, spiritually, emotionally to be on the land, in relation.

•

Foster knowledge of how to respectfully steward and care for the land.

•

Apply integrated ecosystem management approaches.

You stand on someone’s homeland wherever you are. Go beyond a “land acknowledgement” and find ways to personally relate to the people and the place you live with. 14 14

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DEBORAH SMALL

—Declaration of Nyéléni, the first World Forum for Food Sovereignty., Mali, 2007 (US Food Sovereignty Alliance)

Relating to the Land and the Food We Take From It “Indigenous peoples were the original stewards and caretakers of the land. Settlers came to colonize a land full of abundance. There was abundance because the original stewards lived in balance with the land, and it wasn’t until settler colonialism that we as a society began to live out of balance with all living things. This imbalance, greed, and exploitation led to climate change. If we wish to begin to reverse our impact on Mother Earth, we must begin to care for her as the original stewards did. We must let Indigenous knowledge, Indigenous land management practices, and Indigenous peoples lead the way in addressing the impacts of climate change.” —Althea Walker

Indigenous This term refers to First Nations, American Indian, and Aboriginal peoples including from federally recognized Tribes, state-recognized Tribes, and nonrecognized Tribes who have historical, spiritual connections to their traditional homelands. Sovereignty Politically this refers to the inherent right of Native nations to govern themselves, their affairs, and their lands. Indigenous/Traditional Ecological Knowledge Evolving knowledge acquired by Indigenous and local peoples over hundreds or thousands of years through direct contact with the environment. —Climate Science Alliance Building Authentic Collaborations with Tribal Communities: A Living Reference for Climate Practitioners Indigenous Data Sovereignty The right to determine the means of collection, access, analysis, interpretation, management, dissemination, and reuse of data pertaining to the Indigenous peoples from whom it has been derived, or to whom it relates. —Indigenous Data Sovereignty: Toward an Agenda by Tahu Kukutai and John Taylor

I get my food from a grocery store and never really thought about the who, what, where, and how of it until the pandemic. R II N NG G 22 0 0 22 22 || SS PP R

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Relating to the Land

Glossary of Terms

Plants Native to Our Region Reveal Deep Connections WITH WISDOMS OF THE ELDERS Richard Bugbee is a Payómkawichum (Juaneño/Luiseño) Indian from northern San Diego County with ties to the Kumeyaay, Mununjali Yogumbeh, and Te Ahwina. Richard has taught ethnobotany, ethnoecology, Indigenous material cultures, and traditional plant uses of Southern California at Kumeyaay Community College, museums, botanical gardens, and reservations, and for several Kumeyaay tribes. He has served on boards and councils with the goal to use knowledge to serve as a bridge that connects the wisdom of the Elders with today’s youth. Here and on page 18, Bugbee shares about what he considers to be the two most important native plants to our region’s first peoples: elderberry and white sage.

Richard Bugbee taught classes on Indigenous material cultures and ethnobotany at Kumeyaay Community College. (Image courtesy of Lacey Cannon)

California’s native peoples lived with and used thousands of native plants in countless ways over millennia. Some examples of the “material culture” of Indian tribes include adhesives, basketry, boars, ceremonial items, clothing, cordage, dyes, foods, furniture, games, medicines, musical instruments, nets, ornamentation, poisons, snares, structures, toys, tools, traps, utensils, and weapons. —Tending the Wild, M. Kat Anderson

How We Gather First, ask permission Say a prayer of thanks State your intent Gather in such a way that you benefit the plant, like pruning… Never gather when a plant is flowering —Richard Bugbee

The way these names are spelled will vary, as ancient native languages were meant to be spoken and shared amongst conversation, not written. It is through these conversations throughout time immemorial that these languages have persisted to be passed down generation after generation. —Climate Science Alliance

Nature has 3.8 million years of R&D. —Bioneers.org

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“Willie Pink tells us another reason why elderberry is so unique. The elderberry leaves are poisonous, but…you can drink the blossom tea. You get a tree that can kill you or heal you. You can go either way. You can make weapons out of it, or you can make musical instruments.”

Relating to the Land

—Ethnobotany Project, edited by Rose Ramirez and Deborah Small

Elderberry (Sambucus mexicana)

Cupeño: kuut | Luiseño: kutpat Cahuilla: hunqwat | Kumeyaay: kepally Delicious and Nutritious Eating Ripe berries are very nutritious and can be eaten fresh or dried, and they are often made into syrups, jams, or teas.

DEBORAH SMALL

Healing Potential It’s one of the few plants you can gather blossoms from ahead of time. Good for the blood with long-lasting medicinal qualities. Making Things Fibers from the inner bark were used to create skirts. Stems and leaves make yellow and black dyes for basket weaving. Dip branches in water to bless a house, and make flutes and split-stick rattles.

I have elderberry tea in my cupboard. I didn’t know a variety of this plant is native to San Diego County. I wonder what other native plants are in foods I already enjoy? I NGG 22002222 | | SSPPRRI N

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White Sage (Salvia apiana) Cupeño: qashily | Luiseño: qaashil Cahuilla: qas’ily | Kumeyaay: pestaay Delicious and Nutritious Eating Toasted seeds and tender shoots can be eaten raw or roasted. Healing Potential Use as a tea for various ailments. Ceremonial Importance The seed stalk is like the umbilical cord with the Creator. It removes negativity or purifies when burnt as a smudge and purifies in a water solution. The sale of white sage as a medicinal plant is discouraged. Instead, encourage giving some as a gift or grow it yourself. Making Things White sage can be used as a hair rinse, cleaning solution for baskets, and toilet paper. In nature, the flower makes a perfect platform for bees and pollinators to land on, with two stamens that strategically drop pollen off on them.

“Native practitioners know never to over-gather an area of plant relatives, so as to maintain the ecological resilience and balance of those plant relatives.” — Will Madrigal Jr. “The Climate Science Alliance and its California Native partners would like to minimize the illegal extractive practice of harvesting native California plant relatives. We would implore all who are interested to obey all plant protective laws and be sensitive to the delicate balance in our plant environments.”

Does Foraging Threaten Wildlands and Native Culture? by Ilsa Setziol

So, it’s OK if I try to plant some white sage at home? (Yes, and then you can share it.)

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DEBORAH SMALL

READ

—Saging the World

Type your zip code into audubon.org/native-plants to see which native plants will thrive where you live.

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Relating to the Land

To stem the accelerating loss of habitat, growing white sage and other native plants for ourselves and to share with our communities is one of the most beneficial things we can do as individuals. Cultivating white sage and other California native plants is “essentially repatriating those plants back to the landscape from which they grew,” according to Naomi Fraga.

Traditional Knowledge and Innovative Leadership Indigenous Regeneration Indigenousregeneration.org is an organization based in Valley Center. It originated as Mata’Yuum, a pilot program for sustainable land-based educational programming for the San Pasqual Reservation. Over the last five years, Mata’Yuum evolved as a campus that is now being returned to the Tribe to continue to serve the youth and the community of San Pasqual through its programs of regenerative agriculture, earth building, ethnobotany, cultural revitalization, and connection to land and community. Indigenous Regeneration is currently working on three projects: The Birdsong Project, to create a digital platform for Kumeyaay cultural traditions; a board game that uses interactive fun to teach about Kumeyaay ethnobotany; and Paradise Valley Farm, which serves families on the San Pasqual Reservation with free boxes of produce and farm apprenticeships. Their partners include Dr. Bronner’s, Guayakí, Clevr, Patagonia, REI, SDGE, San Diego Foundation, Posca, San Manuel Band of Indians, SDSU, Haro BMX, Chipotle, Farmer’s Footprint, Kiss the Ground, Berry Good Food Foundation, Whole Foods Kids, Sea + Soil, SDSU, The Foodshed, and ProduceGood.

A stop on the basketmaking trail

Great oaks from little acorns grow. 20 20

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LACEY CANNON

—As told by Lacey Cannon

Pauma Tribal Farms

CO N N O R M AG E E ( H E D G E R O W P L A N T I N G ) R U T H - A N N T H O R N ( ACO R N S A N D P R O D U CTS )

N8iV Beauty “I am standing on tribal land at Rincon Indian Reservation where my family has lived for thousands of years. A spirit of activism passed to me from my parents in a way that shares light and positivity to a world and society that needs it. N8iV Beauty is my catalyst for healing, empowerment, and indigenous restoration. Building on wisdom passed down from my ancestors, I harvest plant life from the reservation to heal the skin. As Indigenous people, we have always known that our uniqueness and relationship with Mother Earth is what brings strength to our Tribe. We believe that plants are living beings whose powerful extracts promote healing and a balance with nature. Especially our mighty ancestor, the acorn (kwíila) is the best ingredient for skin regeneration. All the botanicals and natural ingredients used since ancient times create a balance that we need to walk the fullest life. We have a word in Luiseño called yawaywish, meaning ‘beautiful.’ Join me. Let us walk in beauty.” —Ruth-Ann Thorn, registered tribal member of the Luiseño/ Payómkawichum Tribe

Since time immemorial, the Pauma Band of Luiseño Indians are the original stewards of Pauma Valley. The Pauma Band has owned and operated hundreds of acres of commercial citrus and avocado for decades on and off Pauma’s reservation. Pauma has formed numerous partnerships in experimenting with cover crops, windrows, and other regenerative practices to restore the health of the soils, biodiversity, and carbon sequestration, continually increasing their food sovereignty in a time of increasing heat and drought. “In our way of life, we’re nothing without our health, and food is essential to being healthy,” says Tribal Chairman Temet Aguilar. The Tribe’s traditional knowledge has always guided their work—living in balance with the air, the land, and the water. The Tribe’s recent focus on producing healthy foods from their own land in harmony with their culture brings balance back into the valley and prosperity instead of poverty. Chairman Aguilar envisions the Pauma Tribe connecting with other Indigenous nations….trading and bringing old foodways back to life. “We have been doing this quietly,” says Chairman Aguilar. “There’s a bigger vision where we are going with this. You can only move so fast, and allies help champion our cause. Nobody knows the future, but the Tribe can reach back to time immemorial for guidance. We know what our ancestors knew. Climate change makes for uncharted territory, but we will live our way of life, be dynamic, and adapt to thrive. It’s radical to trust, but we do.” —As told by Temet Aguilar, Tribal Chairman, Pauma Band of Luiseño Indians

Tribal members can feel burdened when people expect them to educate. Take responsibility for following your curiosity and be respectful of others on your journey. SPRING 2022 | SPRING 2022 |

edible SAN SAN DIEGO 21 edible DIEGO 21

Relating to the Land

Pauma means “the place of water”

Native People and Plants Have a Lot to Contribute as We Adapt to Climate Change The United Nations Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change’s latest report noted for the first time in its 34-year history that historic colonialism and governance models have contributed to unsustainable ocean and land use, inequity, and marginalization of vulnerable communities such as Indigenous peoples. The report also said the “recognition of inherent rights of Indigenous peoples” and including Indigenous peoples and other local communities would be integral to successful adaptation in forested areas and other parts of the world. —Debra Utacia, Arizona Republic

TEK ON wildfire As mainstream restoration and climate adaptation efforts begin to utilize traditional knowledges, a local organization is creating opportunities for Indigenous peoples to receive the training and certifications necessary to not only participate in these efforts, but to also lead them. “We have been resilient through a long line of colonization, but we have also lost a lot of knowledge about our lifeways,” explains Will Madrigal Jr., who is Cahuilla and Luiseño and is part of the team leading the Stewardship Pathways program at the Climate Science Alliance. To remedy this loss, the program hopes to train a network to lead equitable and inclusive restoration efforts as part of a larger goal to revitalize Indigenous stewardship, starting with a cohort of trainees this spring. Training has already begun to establish an Indigenous crew certified in wildland firefighting and trained in cultural stewardship and climate science. Additional trainees will soon convene for a five-month course on native plant propagation that weaves together technical skills with traditional knowledge and climate science.

San Diego County is the most biodiverse in the country due to its varied topography and Mediterranean climate.

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Nearby places to learn about native plants and Indigenous traditions Iipay ~ Tipai Kumeyaay Mut Niihepok Land of the First People Area Kumeyaay Garden - University of San Diego San Diego Botanic Garden Indian Rock Garden

Learn more

Videos/Movies

Books & Articles

Kumeyaay College

KPBS Explore San Diego: First People - Kumeyaay

Ethnobotany Project, Rose Ramirez and Deborah Small

Survival in the Weave: Kumeyaay

Indigenous Food Sovereignty in the United States, edited by Devon A. Mihesuah and Elizabeth Hoover

California Indian Culture and Sovereignty Center (CICSC), California State University San Marcos SDSU Department of American Indian Studies, San Diego State University Indigenous Anthropology Major, California State University San Marcos

Our People. Our Culture. Our History. Gather directed by First Nations Development Institute

Tending the Wild, by M. Kat Anderson “Indigenous Food Sovereignty, Renewal, and U.S. Settler Colonialism,” by Kyle Powys Whyte in The Routledge Handbook of Food Ethics

Indigenous Foods Knowledges Network Climate Science Alliance - Meaningful Engagement Resources

Visit Barona Cultural Center & Museum

Find this hyperlinked guide on ediblesandiego.com or search for these media titles and organizations online.

What’s your starting point for understanding native people in our region?

SPRING 2022 | SPRING 2022 |

edible SAN SAN DIEGO 23 edible DIEGO 23

Relating to the Land

Traditional Ecological Knowledge Resources

Grass fed nutrient dense beef Regenerative ranching practices that build soil Online ordering. 8 farmers markets. Halves and wholes. 760.600.0248

Sub scr ibe Today

Perennialpasturesranch.com

PRINT & DIGITAL memberships

scan me

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SPRING 2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 25

to savor the extraordinary.

In Monterey County, some experiences are best enjoyed at a slower pace. It’s easy to get lost in a stunning vista, the creativity of a dish, or a good conversation with great friends. So, come explore the flavor of this place. At your own speed.

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SeeMonterey.com/Now

Shopping…More Consciously Small, everyday steps can improve our health and the well-being of the planet

You’ve probably heard of MEAL PLANNING and are loathe to spend precious weekend time doing it, but try it. You might like it! A few minutes spent perusing past copies of Edible San Diego and your favorite cookbooks can give you some fun, new ideas. BE GENTLE ON YOURSELF, kids, and family. We can try our best most of the time, but we can’t do it all, all the time. Try to set simple goals that make processed foods or sweets increasingly rare treats rather than staples. CONSIDER FOOD MILES, which have a huge impact on our climate. Does your grocery store carry and indicate local products? Is it feasible to buy directly from a local farmer or food artisan, even just for some things? It sounds basic, but A SHOPPING LIST can help us both stay within our food budget and reduce waste by buying only what we really need or realistically can cook with or eat in the coming week. SPEAK UP! When you shop and eat out, ask about whether they source locally and what they’re doing to reduce food miles, single-use plastic, food waste, and chemical additives. CHOOSE ORGANIC WHEN YOU CAN and use the Environmental Working Group’s Dirty Dozen™ and Clean Fifteen™ lists to help guide wallet-friendly priorities.

M A R I A H E SS E

We love The Natural Kitchen: Your Guide to the Sustainable Food Revolution by Deborah Eden Tull (Process Media, 2010).

Why Buy Local Buying locally grown produce reduces the food’s carbon footprint. It’s fresher, which means it contains a higher level of nutritional value—more ROI on your food dollar! All kinds of good ripple effects happen when we put our food dollars into circulation among people who live close to us, who we can come to know, and who in turn employ local people and put those dollars back into our region.

Where To Buy Local and In Season

Do you know a local farmer or food maker by name? If not, try getting to know one by buying from them. SPRING 2022 | SPRING 2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 27 edible SAN DIEGO 27

Actions We Can Take

REDUCE WASTE by using reusable shopping bags, boxes, or even a laundry basket when you shop. Look for foods with the least amount of packaging, and try to avoid singleuse plastic. Purchasing more fresh produce, whole foods, and bulk pantry items can be a big help with this effort.

SAN DIEGO FARM SUSTAINABILITY PROGRAM The San Diego Farm Sustainability Program is a 20-month, no cost business development course designed for a small group of San Diego farmers and growers. This program focuses on sustaining local specialty crop farm businesses through strategic agricultural expert guidance. This program utilizes a curriculum-based framework to provide technical assistance in areas of crop planning, business design, and farm law regulations to support the sustainability of farmto-institution business relationships. Through this program, it was evident that participating farmers faced evolving challenges specific to their operation. Furthermore, a common thread of support was identified and provided to participants by program staff and Subject Matter Experts.

REGULATIONS & COMPLIANCE:

Ensuring farm operators are within compliance on labor, runoff, water, as well as appropriate liability and employee insurance. Participants were directed and encouraged to utilize services and groups like the Avocado Commission for food safety trainings, the Irrigated Lands Group, Specialty Agriculture Water Rate, County Department of Agriculture for pesticide compliance and National Resource Conservation Service.

FINANCIALS & BUSINESS PLANNING: Offering a range of financial and business support, including: separating personal and business bank accounts, structuring financial spreadsheets, farm deductions through IRS Schedule F, recategorizing profit & loss statements, crop costing, financial metrics, price points suggestions, and cost/benefit analysis of markets.

FACILITATED SALES:

A major area of support provided through the SDFSP was its ability to introduce and facilitate farm to buyer sales relationships for those within and outside of the program.

72 38

Total farm and buyer connections Successful sales (52.7% success rate), which ranged from one-timepurchases to long-term relationships

2020

104,450 Pounds of local food brokered

162K+

Spent on local food

For more information

F2ICENTER.ORG

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PEER TO PEER NETWORKING:

Despite an overall feeling of solitude in the agricultural word during the COVID-19 pandemic, SDFSP created a sense of camaraderie with participants through fostering and facilitating peer-to-peer networking opportunities. The vehicles used for this medium included hybridnetworking sessions, Farm to Buyer gatherings, and break out discussions. One significant outcome through these events was the realization that they were closer in proximity and business models. These invaluable connections made will support long-term success for future farming.

OPERATIONS & CROP PLANNING:

Support in maintaining or expanding production areas, considerations for crops to grow, sourcing options, planting guides, maximizing current and future production, improved labor and facilities, new customers with higher return on sales, organic certification, application and benefits of fertilizer injector, and labeling compliances.

THROUGHOUT THE PROGRAM TERM:

2021

146,924 Pounds of local food brokered

284K+

Spent on local food

GRANT PERIOD

251,374 Pounds of local food brokered

447K+

Spent on local food during grant period

Food Security: Having reliable access to sufficient

affordable food that meets dietary needs and food preferences Let’s clarify some things when we’re talking about food.

Food can be a source of gratification, entertainment, or even status. Consumer culture turns food into a commodity and sometimes even an obsession. The companies with the largest advertising budgets encourage us to eat highly processed foods, whose ingredients, supply chains, and labor practices raise many questions when we stop to think about it. Edible Communities publications across North America are dedicated to exploring beyond the sound bite and pretty food picture. Covid and climate change are drawing more attention to where our food comes from and how regular access to food is much more vulnerable and inequitable than we thought.

IN SAN DIEGO COUNTY, 290,000 PEOPLE WORK IN FOOD...

Contributing $35 billion to our Region's economy

... At 20,000 businesses

How can busy, hardworking people have enough time to create circumstances in their lives in which As they can eat the we each way they contemplate our own want to? life and how our eating habits reflect our role in our local and global food systems, what are some questions we might ask?

What are the best practices to get nutrient-dense food into more people’s hands?

To learn more, the San Diego Hunger Coalition and the San Diego Food System Alliance are local organizations that have extensive information about food security in our region.

3 Inspiring Nonprofits Working to Share More Local Food Project New Village Olivewood Gardens I Love to Glean San Diego County Hunger Relief Guide 

How we grow, move, and share Food has massive implications on our planet...

... And on people. we can heal our relationships with land and each other by transforming our Food system.

THE TIME TO REIMAGINE OUR FOOD SYSTEM IS NOW

#SDFOODVISION2030 — 3 GOALS. 10 OBJECTIVES. 60+ STORIES. 10 YEARS TO TRANSFORM OUR FOOD SYSTEM. 3 MILLION SAN DIEGANS. ONE MOVEMENT.

What are the dishes that mean the most to you and why? SPRING 2022 | SPRING 2022 |

edibleSAN SAN DIEGO 29 edible DIEGO 29

Actions We Can Take

While many residents of San Diego County take food for granted, as many as one in three San Diegans (that’s one million of us) have a relationship with food that is dominated by scarcity according to the San Diego Hunger Coalition. When you don’t have enough money to provide food for yourself or your family, making purchasing decisions based on whether food is organic, local, or how many miles it’s traveled might seem irrelevant or insensitive. At the same time, each of us have personal lived experiences that influence food preferences including race, ethnicity, and family background.

How can we talk about fair and equitable access to food that encompasses How can we encourage all these the production of foods dimensions? that help rather than harm the planet we live on?

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Good Reasons to Cook at Home

Actions We Can Take

Having the ability to cook is one thing, and finding the good in it can be another. There are drawbacks, like all the dishes to wash. There are also plenty of occasions in life to leave the cooking to the professionals, and so many prepared food options that make takeout and delivery too easy. Still, breaking out the apron can offer many benefits.

1. It’s the most convenient it’s ever been

2. It gives you more control over what’s going into your body

3. Discover and share the abundance

If we have some kind of kitchen indoors, with access to water, electricity, and fuel, we are fortunate indeed. By keeping food prep simple, we can make time for it in our busy lives.

We’re grateful when we have food at all—too many don’t. And too often, we eat mindlessly. Don’t stress: This isn’t about someone else telling you what to eat. All we’re saying is try to be mindful and connect with others to make your food your medicine. You deserve it.

Fact: There are few things that offer as much joy as a good meal made with intention and shared with others. No matter your beliefs, gratitude really starts to flow when you’ve talked to the farmer or raised those herbs yourself. When we take the time to cook at home, it can be a little moment in our day to focus on our health.

Paper or digital for recipes? Favorite cookbooks? Do you have recipe cards from previous generations?

“Another thing cooking is, or can be, is a way to honor the things...that have been sacrificed to gratify our needs and desires, as well as the places and the people that produced them.” —Michael Pollan SP PR R II N NG G 2 20 02 22 2 || S

SAN DIEGO DIEGO 31 edible SAN

4. Cooking is fun and creative Cooking is an art and a science that can connect us with family, places, cultures, and more through all seven senses. Don’t get hung up on perfection. Invite your kids, friends, or significant other to get into the kitchen. Things don’t always turn out as expected, but experimenting can be fun and delicious. 5. It makes for great fuel efficiency Did you know that an idling car in a drive-thru line releases up to one pound of CO2 every 15 minutes? Microwaving an Amy’s frozen breakfast burrito might be a far more ecologically sound option if you’re in a rush. If and when you do pick up takeout, park the car, turn off the engine, and go inside to get your order. Depending on where you’re getting takeout from, you can preorder over the phone or through apps, schedule pickup times, and dash right in and out. 6. It saves money Prepared meals cost on average 325% more than a meal cooked at home. 7. Cooking actively endorses a sustainable life skill Of course, we’re biased, but mastering some cooking basics, figuring out the best way to make your favorite meals, and trying new things can connect us with people all over the world who care about our personal and collective health. And who doesn’t want to make friends with more people who’ve discovered how making changes to seemingly small, everyday actions actually do add up to big impact?

Here are some tasty, seasonal, climatefriendly recipes courtesy of the Climate Science Alliance.

Quick—What’s your earliest food memory? Do you take turns with who cooks and who washes the dishes? 32

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edible SAN DIEGO 33

WINTER

SUMMER

2 tablespoons Champagne or white wine vinegar 2 tablespoons local honey ¼ cup olive oil Salt and pepper to taste 1 ruby red grapefruit

15 minutes

1 Valencia orange 2 blood oranges Mixed greens 1 small red onion, sliced 1 tablespoon pistachios 1 tablespoon pomegranate arils

3 cups prickly pear fruit juice (or lemon or grape juice) 1 cup grapefruit soda, sparkling water, or additional juice 2 tablespoons chia seeds, soaked Seasonal fruit chunks (optional)

Ingredients

Recipe adapted from Cooking the Native Way by the Chia Café Collective

Note: The ratio used above is 3:1, which yields 4 cups. You can adjust quantities for the size and number of popsicle molds you are using. Use 4-ounce popsicle molds for 8 servings or 2-ounce paper cup molds for 16 servings. You can double or triple the ingredients for large groups.

pop and turn the liner upside down over the cup like a lid so that the stick stays upright and centered while freezing. 3. Freeze for at least 10 hours. Remove the cupcake liner and enjoy.

2. Insert a wooden ice pop stick through the bottom center of a cupcake liner for each ice

1. Combine all ingredients and pour into popsicle molds or paper cups.

How to Prepare

10 minutes to prep plus overnight to freeze

Prep Time

Prickly Pear Frozen Treats

Recipe adapted from “Home and Plate” by Ali Randall

on top. Sprinkle with pistachios and pomegranate arils. Drizzle the salad with the dressing and serve.

3. Arrange two plates with mixed greens, placing the citrus rounds and sliced red onion

into thin rounds.

2. Peel the citrus, cutting away the bitter white pith. Using a serrated knife, slice the citrus

Whisk or shake well to incorporate the honey. Tip: Warming in the microwave for 10 seconds helps to thin the honey.

1. To make the dressing, mix together the vinegar, honey, olive oil, salt, and pepper.

How to Prepare

Ingredients

Prep Time

Winter Sweet Citrus Salad SPRING FALL

3 avocados, pitted and peeled Juice of 2 limes ¼ cup chopped cilantro ½ small white onion, chopped

10 minutes

jalapeño, and salt.

1 small jalapeño, minced ½ teaspoon kosher salt

15 minutes

1 tablespoon butter 1 yellow onion, chopped 1 stalk celery, thinly sliced 1 large carrot, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh thyme 1 quart low-sodium vegetable broth tablespoons olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast until tender, about 25 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, in a large pot over medium heat, melt butter and remaining tablespoon olive oil. Add onion, celery, and carrot and cook until softened, 7 to 10 minutes. Season with salt, pepper, and thyme. 3. Add roasted squash and potatoes and pour in vegetable broth. Simmer 10 minutes and eat as is or use an immersion blender to purée until creamy. Tip: If you don’t have an immersion blender, purée soup in a blender or eat as is. Use caution when pouring! 4. Serve garnished with thyme and pepper.

1. Preheat oven to 400°. On a baking sheet, toss butternut squash and potatoes with 2

How to Prepare

40 minutes

Cook Time

Ingredients

1 large butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cubed 2 potatoes, peeled and chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil Salt and pepper

Prep Time

Autumn Squash Soup

more salt if needed. Garnish with cilantro before serving.

3. Once the mixture has reached the desired consistency, season with

2. Stir, then slowly turn the bowl as you gently mash the avocados.

1. In a large bowl, combine avocados, lime juice, cilantro, onion,

How to Prepare

Ingredients

Prep Time

Easy Guacamole

Seasonal Food Highlight

Avocados

Let it grow!

Climatic shifts in precipitation and water availability may have impacts on avocado production, affecting availability and cost. Avocado trees are an important crop for sequestering carbon back into the soil. DIY Activity

Butternut Squash

1. Fill a jar with water. 2. Wash and dry an avocado pit. Poke three toothpicks into and around the pit and place on top of the jar, so the widest end of the pit sits about an inch deep in the water. 3. Place the jar in a warm spot in the sun that doesn’t get direct sunlight (such as a window sill). 4. Add more water as needed. The pit should start to sprout in 2 to 6 weeks; wait until the roots are thick to place in soil.

Seasonal Food Highlight

Squash Stamps

Squash is an easy vegetable to try growing at home. Squashes are storage crops and can last for many months in your pantry without going bad, so there’s reduced chance of food waste. DIY Activity

1. Keep the ends that you cut from the squash and pat them dry. 2. Using a pencil or marker, draw a shape on the cut end of the squash. Cut around this shape using a kitchen knife, leaving behind the design so it is raised significantly higher than the rest of the surface.

Tip: Press a cookie cutter into the squash and use it as a guide. 3. Apply paint or ink to your new stamp and decorate paper, fabric, or whatever you like!

Seasonal Food Highlight

Oranges

Natural Household Cleaner

Keep in mind how far your food travels. Many oranges sold in stores are sourced from differ ent states. Buying local when you can helps reduce carbon pollution from transportation. Southern California citrus trees are at risk of disease and pests that could worsen with increasing temperatures. DIY Activity

1. Fill a large Mason jar halfway with citrus peels (peels only, no pulp). Pour white vinegar into the jar, making sure the peels are fully submerged. Seal the jar with a lid.

2. Let the jar sit in a dark place for two weeks. After two weeks, strain the liquid using a fine-mesh sieve or cheesecloth placed over a large bowl. Pour cleaner into a spray bottle. Tip: Compost the discarded peels to reduce waste even further.

Chia

3. Optionally, add herbs or essential oils to the cleaner.

Superfood Highlight

Loaded with nutrients, antioxidants, and omega-3 fatty acids, chia is considered a modern day superfood. Did you know we have native chia in Southern California and Baja? Learn more from the California Native Plant Society about how you can protect native plants in our region at cnps.org.

What can you add chia to?

Native Foodways: The intersection of food in culture, traditions, and history is known as a foodway. To learn about Native foodways, check out Cooking the Native Way from the Chia Café Collective at: heydaybooks.com/catalog/ cooking-the-native-way-chia-cafe-collective. DIY Activity

Jam Fruit juice Nut milk

Oatmeal Pancakes Smoothies

Chia is a versatile seed that can be added to many recipes to make them new, exciting, and nutritious! Try adding the seeds to foods like these and see how you like it. Bread Cookies Granola/Cereal

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GROW SOME ME OF YOUR OWN FOOD Why Grow Your Own

Actions We Can Take

The many benefits of gardening include exercise, stress and anxiety reduction, lowering blood pressure and risk of dementia, plus a short distance in transit required to get from yard to plate.

Ideas for Gardening in Small Spaces Container Gardening You don’t need tons of space to try your hand at growing something to eat. Start simple with tried-and-true herbs like rosemary or basil. Tomatoes are pretty forgiving, as are chile peppers. Look up videos online about how to use laundry baskets and other items you might have on hand to grow potatoes and other vegetables…even from the ones that have sprouted in your kitchen. Grow on Window Sills Try sprouting lettuce from its base and carrots from their tops. Sprouting avocado pits is a whole botany experiment and creates a new avocado tree.

Let’s add forage and glean to our vocabularies.

Healthy foods require healthy soil—check out mycorrhizal networks and microbiome to start… SPRING 2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 35

Mission Hills Nursery

Grower to Garden Providing San Diego Gardeners with Edibles Grown in San Diego County Since 1910 Selection of o Quality Herbs, Fruits and Vegetables Organic and Natural Fertilizers, Insect Controls and Weed Suppressants

Virtual Spring Seminar

Earth Friendly Gardening Learn, Plant, Grow.

619-295-2808

www.missionhillsnursery.com

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SAVE THE DATE

March 16-27, 2022 mastergardenersd.org

Gardening and Growing Resources

Nan Sterman - A Growing Passion, local television show that’s been picked up nationally by PBS. Offers workshops, tours, and books City Farmers Nursery - An iconic retailer for growing in the city San Diego Seed Company - Regionally adapted and organic certified seeds Master Gardeners Association of San Diego County California Native Plant Society San Diego Chapter

Think Edible Landscapes If you live where you have even a little bit of land around you, switch your thinking to edible landscapes. Integrate a few herbs, veggies, and fruits into what’s already there, perhaps gradually evolving your space into a climate- and budget-friendly permaculture food forest. Including native plants and growing things around where we live can be waterwise. It can seem overwhelming, but as with all good things, start small.

Books Growing Consciousness: The Gardener’s Guide to Seeding the Soul by Leo Carver Second Nature: A Gardener’s Education by Michael Pollan Radical Regenerative Farming and Gardening by Frank Holzman The Edible Balcony: Growing Fresh Produce in Small Spaces by Alex Mitchell Tiny Victory Gardens by Acadia Tucker

Sustainable Agriculture Program at San Diego City College ▶

Collecting seeds is economical and empowering. Make sure to look for nonGMO certified seeds.

Does your neighborhood have a community garden or a garden at a local public school where you can volunteer or meet other people interested in gardening?

Some plants that we think of as weeds, like dandelion, are edible, nutritious, tasty, and free! Just make sure the areas where you pick them are free from herbicides and other chemicals. SPRING 2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 37

Actions We Can Take

Unique San Diego County Gardening Resources

38 e d i bCommunities lesandiego.com edible |

S IG N AT U RE

S E C T ION

The trademarks and certification marks displayed are the property of their respective owners and are displayed herein for demonstration and informational purposes. Edible Communities and these entities are not affiliated.

IN LABELS WE TRUST

How food certification labels, seals and standards can help eaters make better choices

STO RY

E L E N A

S E E L E Y,

FO O D

TA N K

CO N T E N T

D I R E C TO R

Danielle Nierenberg, Food Tank president, contributed to this article.

Even before the pandemic, choosing what to eat was difficult.

PROT E CT ING WO RK E RS

What’s healthy? What’s not? Do workers get a fair wage? What’s

In 2020, the World Economic Forum/Ipsos found that 86

better for the planet? For eaters looking to purchase products that

percent of people want a significant change towards a more equi-

are fairly traded or BIPOC owned, it can feel exhausting to find

table and sustainable world post-pandemic.

delicious foods from producers they believe in.

Standards from the food sector are working to eliminate

Certification labels and standards can be useful and neces-

forced and child labor, improve workers’ conditions, promote

sary ways to help consumers, but they’re often confusing. “Un-

gender equity and ensure better pay. Many fair-trade companies

fortunately, the burden is always on the consumer in terms of

are helping growers shift to environmentally sustainable practices.

evaluating the veracity of the label, doing the research to see

“While not a silver bullet, the Rainforest Alliance certification

whether the information on these labels is properly supported

is designed to provide methods and a shared standard for creat-

and accurate,” Brian Ronholm, director of food policy at Con-

ing a more transparent, data-driven, risk-based supply chain…to

sumer Reports, says.

make responsible business the new normal,” says Alex Morgan

Focusing on one issue helps, says Jerusha Klemperer of FoodPrint, an organization that educates consumers about food production practices. Decide which issue you’re most passionate

from the Rainforest Alliance. For foods from the United States, it’s more difficult to find companies upholding fair working conditions.

about and look for a label that upholds those standards. Labels

“Farm employees are still not equally protected under the Fair

can help increase transparency and provide insight into how food

Labor Standards Act and do not have a federally protected right

was produced. They can help eaters vote with their wallets for

to a weekly day of rest, overtime pay, sick time, collective bar-

food choices that support the environment, climate solutions,

gaining rights or even the right to a federal minimum wage on

animal welfare, workers’ rights, and healthy and sustainable diets.

small farms,” says Leah Penniman of Soul Fire Farm, an Afro-

But even conscientious eaters can get overwhelmed by the num-

Indigenous centered community farm in New York.

ber of choices they face.

Rosalinda Guillen, founder of Community to Community,

Choosing certified labels is a way to avoid empty claims, Klem-

says the Food Justice Certified label by the Agricultural Justice

perer says. But not all certification processes are created equal.

Project (AJP) is the most comprehensive label for protecting

Klemperer advises consumers to “do the research before you get

workers. “We call it the gold standard,” says Guillen, who has

to the store.”

provided input on AJP’s certification since 2000. Her BIPOC-

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led organization fights for better farm working conditions. She trusts the

mals suffer unnecessarily,” says Ben Goldsmith of Farm Forward, a non-

label because farm workers were deeply involved in setting the standards

profit striving to improve farm animal welfare. It can be easy for us to

from the beginning.

imagine ideal scenarios—healthy animals that are free to roam in open

Soul Fire is one of just six farms using Food Justice Certified. And it's advocating for the Fairness for Farm Workers Act. “The exploitation of farm labor is so deeply entrenched in the DNA of this nation that it can feel daunting to confront it, and yet we must,” says Penniman.

pastures—but unfortunately, Goldsmith explains, few animals are raised this way. According to the nongovernmental organization, Food and Water Watch, 1.6 billion farm animals live on 25,000 factory farms, or concentrated animal feeding operations, in the U.S. These animals face over-

IS AL L N AT URA L ME ANI N GL E SS?

crowded and stressful conditions and are regularly subject to physical

One of the most familiar labels is all natural. It sounds good—even healthy—but it’s an empty marketing tool.

alterations like tail docking and beak clipping. To avoid meats from animals subject to inhumane practices, look for

Klemperer says, “Ignore it.” Look for labels like USDA Certified

the Certified Animal Welfare Approved (AWA) label. Farmers and ranch-

Organic, which is two decades old. According to the Economic Re-

ers qualifying for certification cannot use cages, must provide access to

search Service of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, organic foods can

pastures and must ensure animals are treated humanely when they are

be found in almost three out of every four conventional supermarkets.

bred, transported and slaughtered. Producers may also add a Certified

To meet USDA standards, foods must be grown in soils that have

Grass-fed label to this certification, meaning animals were fed a 100 per-

not been treated with artificial fertilizers and pesticides for at least three

cent grass and forage diet. Goldsmith says he appreciates the AWA label

years. And organic farmers cannot plant genetically modified organisms

because it helps to “support and encourage small producers.”

(GMOs).

Another label is Certified Humane from Humane Farm Animal Care.

Newer labels, like the Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) label,

Minimum space allowances and environmental enrichment must be pro-

encourage farmers to further improve animal welfare, fairness for farm

vided for animals raised under Certified Humane standards. That encom-

workers and soil health. The label’s three-tiered system allows producers

passes the treatment of breeding animals, animals during transport and

to earn bronze, silver or gold certification to incentivize action.

animals at slaughter.

This label is also designed to be adaptable. “As science and culture

These labels are better for animals—and farmers can find them more

morph and change, we can incorporate that into a flexible or dynamic stan-

rewarding. “You get to see animals exhibit natural behaviors,” says Ron

dard that can adjust at that level,” explains Jeff Moyer, CEO of the Rodale

Mardesen, a livestock farmer for Niman Ranch, a beef, pork and lamb

Institute, a nonprofit group dedicated to growing the organic movement.

company with Certified Humane products. For products like eggs, terms like humane raised, free range and hor-

NON- G M O L A BE L S DE MYST I F I E D

mone free sound good, but lack a clear definition. The U.S. prohibits the

Many growers avoid GMOs without using USDA Certified Organic practices. GMO products are derived from plants and animals, the genetic makeup of which has been altered, often to create resistance to pesticides, herbicides and pests.

use of hormones in all poultry, veal, eggs, bison and pork production, so claims of hormone free don’t mean much. AWA, Certified Humane and USDA Certified Organic labeling standards prohibit the use of antibiotics and synthetic hormones in animal

Consumers can look for the Non-GMO Project Verified label, which indicates that produce or products containing fruits and vegetables are not

production. Consumers looking to buy meat products raised without these inputs should buy certified labels.

produced with GMOs. For meat and dairy products, this label means that S O ME T H ING FIS H Y

animals were fed a non-GMO diet. In 2022, products containing GMOs must use a new Bio-Engineered

The seafood sector is rife with labor exploitation, overfishing, eco-

label from the USDA. But some non-GMO advocates argue this label

system damage, fraud and intentional mislabeling. Mark Kaplan, of the

doesn’t go far enough. Many products derived from new modification

company Envisible, calls the challenges in the industry “appalling.”

techniques, including those having undergone CRISPR gene editing and crops meant for animal feed, will be exempt from the label.

Envisible works to make supply chains more transparent and equitable. Using blockchain, the company can trace a product from a fishing vessel all the way to the supermarket. Data entered at every point along

H UMA N E L A BEL I N G

the supply chain cannot be changed, helping eliminate fraud.

“I think everybody cares about animals and nobody wants to see ani-

Kaplan recommends consumers look for the Global Seafood continued

40 e d i bCommunities lesandiego.com edible |

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S E C T IO N

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Alliance’s Best Aquaculture Practices label, a third-party certification that

Numi prefers this approach. She believes that allowing companies to la-

addresses environmental health, social wellbeing, food safety and animal

bel individual products as carbon neutral “can give a green halo to that

welfare along the aquaculture supply chain.

company without necessarily committing to or investing in enterprise

The Fair-Trade Certified seal, a label given to various species of fish

level change.”

that meet certification requirements, is also helpful. Certification focuses

Numi plans to print on each tea box the precise estimate of green-

on supporting economies, improving working conditions and protecting

house gas emissions associated with it—something Oatly and Quorn are

ecosystems.

currently also doing with their packaging.

The Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch is a tool to help guide more sustainable choices on a case-by-case basis. Its website allows users

UNWRAPPING LABELS

to search by species to understand the best options and alternatives, and

Emily Moose, executive director of the nonprofit A Greener World,

which species to avoid.

argues that it’s important for consumers to continually ask for sustainable

C A R B O N L AB E L I N G

whelming, it might not matter.’ But that’s really not true,” says Moose.

products. “It can be easy to just say, ‘Oh, there’s too much, it’s too overAccording to Nature Food, more than one-third of greenhouse gas emissions can be traced to the food system. Many eaters are seeing this

“That only benefits an opaque food system and practices that will never improve.”

connection between global agriculture and the climate crisis, and they

If you care about workers, speak with store managers about carrying

want to purchase more climate-friendly food. Some businesses are seeing

products with AJP’s label. For environmental concerns, email store buy-

labels as part of the solution.

ers to let them know you’re happy they purchase organic or local products

Numi Organic Tea has Climate Neutral Certification. It helps com-

but wish they had more.

panies measure, offset and reduce their carbon emissions to reach carbon

And eaters don’t always need labels to do the right thing. BIPOC

neutrality—a balance between the amount of carbon emitted into and

and women-owned businesses have been disproportionately impacted by

absorbed by the atmosphere. Climate Neutral also tries to account for the

the pandemic. Consumers can look to local farmers’ markets or Yelp and

entirety of the supply chain—emissions caused by on-site facilities, pur-

Google for businesses with a Black-owned or women-led badge.

chased electricity, employee transit, shipping and transporting materials.

Ultimately, labels and certifications are helpful tools, but don’t tell us

Instead of specific products, Climate Neutral certifies entire brands

everything about how food is produced. As eaters, though, we have the op-

once they achieve zero net carbon emissions for one year and requires

portunity, every time we pick up a fork, chopsticks or a spoon, to choose

them to commit to emission reduction targets annually. Jane Franch of

more economically, socially and environmentally just food systems.

Closing Thoughts From Our Founder Thank you for joining us on these pages, the fourth in a series of thought leadership pieces from Edible Communities. We would like to send a special thanks to our partners for this issue, Elena Seeley, Danielle Nierenberg and the team at Food Tank, who made this story possible. Exploring, investigating and changing our food system have been guiding principles of Edible Communities since we first began. And while I know our work has impact and is valued, there is still a lot more to do! In the case of labeling, for instance, it would be so easy if there were one label, one certification, one set of guidelines, one choice to make when it comes to our food, but alas, only one option would allow a broken food system to stay broken. Therefore, we hope you find this thought-provoking and thorough coverage on the topic informative and useful. As you are reading this, Edible Communities is fully into our 20th anniversary year as a media company. We are approaching 100 titles throughout North America and reach over 20 million readers each year. Those are statistics we don’t take lightly. We are grateful for you, dear readers, who help guide and sustain us. And if you’re an Edible reader, we feel you will enjoy being a Food Tank reader as well. Part of its mission statement says: “We aim to educate, inspire, advocate and create change,” and it certainly does that. I encourage you to visit foodtank.com, to listen, learn, join and be part of the conversation. Tracey Ryder, Co-Founder & CEO Edible Communities

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At Specialty Produce, we go to the literal ends of the earth to forage unique produce and study local lore so we can cultivate education around the influence of food, inside and out of the kitchen. From the little lime to the plump pomelo, fruits of all shapes and sizes have a story. The rare, sour Shikuwasa lime is rumored to play a vital role in the legendary longevity of Okinawans, while pomelos like Wong and Tahitian are deeply-rooted symbols of prosperity in Chinese culture. Believe it or not, the innocuous lemon is a secret staple of spies the world over. As far back as 600 CE, lemon juice was used to make invisible ink in the Arab world to deliver covert messages, and by the 16th century it became popular with cautious Renaissance Italians and European monasteries protecting their trade secrets. The juiciest tale comes from WWI, when a group of Germans were caught using lemon ink to send secrets in Britain. One was found with the fruit in his coat pocket, while the raid of another’s home led to even more incriminating evidence—a lemon with pen-poked holes. Those Germans were forever inked in history as the Lemon Juice Spies.

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Even inside the kitchen, lemons are a versatile staple described as “the little black dress” of fruits, good for all occasions. Flavor desserts with the sweet and floral Meyer lemon, or tenderize meat with Eureka or Lisbon (which are interchangeably marketed as simply “lemons” in standard stores). Use Pink lemons for an authentic pink lemonade, though don’t expect the color to be as vibrant without red dye, grenadine, or the fabled dirty water —the popular pink drink is rumored to have origins in the circus sometime in the late 1800s, when a lemonade vendor ran out of clean water and instead used a basin that had just been used to wash a performer’s red tights, dyeing the lemonade pink. So, what do you do when life gives you lemons? Download the Specialty Produce App to learn more about their unique place in history, on and under the table!

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Moving Forward I feel deeply honored that we have spent this time together with you, our valued reader. We are so grateful to each of our contributors and advisors, friends old and new. Special thanks are due to the entire team at the Climate Science Alliance, who’ve contributed to this special edition from start to finish. How do you feel as you flip through these pages? Every bite and sip we take into these amazing bodies of ours reveals just how mind-bogglingly, exquisitely, and unavoidably we are all interdependent. The stories we tell ourselves and pay attention to strongly impact how we view ourselves, the world, and what the future holds. Let’s examine our assumptions, and share stories that uplift us. Yes, climate change invokes many emotions, but maybe our welfare and possible futures reflect more about who we are right now than we usually think. We hope this issue offers new tools with which to examine our own dynamic roles in this biosphere, circle of life, or food system. With apologies for any errors or omissions in this issue, over the past few months, I realized that the topics that we could just barely touch on here call out to me. There were many people who offered their valuable time, knowledge, and support, and we look forward to sharing their contributions in the future. I intend to continue reaching out to people who know more about regenerative thinking and traditional ecological knowledge so that Edible San Diego can share this learning with you, our community. So this page isn’t really an ending at all. May this issue invite readers into a closer relationship with this unique, beautiful region we call home. May we seek and live in an ever more respectful relationship with nature and with each other. May we rise to the challenges we face with new humility, partnership, and the joy that comes from simple pleasures. Katie Stokes Publisher and Editor in Chief, Edible San Diego

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