Edible San Diego Issue 28 March-April 2015 by Edible San Diego

Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 28 • March-April 2015

Leyla Javadov of Café 21 Terryl Gavre Pays It Forward Women of the Land San Diego Women's Wine Alliance Francois Goedhuys, Pioneer of Farm-to-Table

March-April 2015

CONTENTS

DEPARTMENTS

TWO CENTS

RESOURCES & ADVERTISERS

FARMERS’ MARKETS

TIDBITS 4

FEATURES

LOCAL TALENT: LEYLA JAVADOV OF CAFÉ 21

THE GOOD EARTH: MOROCCO GOLD DATES

LIQUID ASSETS: LOS PILARES: NASCENT WINEMAKERS PUT SAN DIEGO ON THE MAP

TO YOUR HEALTH: THE RITUAL OF REAL FOOD

LIQUID ASSETS: 34 BREW TIMES TWO

TERRYL GAVRE: PAYING IT FORWARD TO WOMEN CHEFS

WOMEN OF THE LAND

SHATTERING THE (WINE) GLASS CEILING

GIRARD GOURMET: PIONEER OF FARM-TO-TABLE

ROTATING DIETS FOR ROTATING CROPS

SDG&E ENERGY INNOVATION CENTER

Photo: Lyudmila Zotova

{Two Cents} In Fairness to the Fairer Sex In thinking about doing an issue on Women in Food, I had a healthy debate with myself. On one hand it seems a bit old news—we hear about gender inequalities in every aspect of the workplace fairly regularly. Do half our readers roll their eyes and think "that again?" On the other hand, there are a lot of talented, hardworking, underpaid and deserving women who should be recognized. And as a woman myself, it is never old news.

Photo: David Pattison

For me, this is not an us-and-them issue. Men and women are simply different but equally as valuable and capable. But human cultures have not always and do not to this day recognize this simple fact. And so women are paid less than men, have a tougher time being promoted to desirable positions, and often suffer harassment and discrimination in the workplace. I don't understand it myself. Do we just need to be meaner? Existing inequalities aside, change is going on. Perhaps the status quo only changes when enough women simply refuse to give up doing what they love and become more outspoken. A lot is accomplished by hanging in there and letting your work speak for itself, but you have to make a few demands as well.

The restaurant business is notoriously hard for women to crack. There is a very strong female Riley Davenport and John Vawter presence in culinary schools (40 percent at the International Culinary Center) but only about 6.5 percent have made it into executive chef positions. However there are many more women in sous-chef positions than ever before. We hope there will be opportunities opening up as these young women work their way through the ranks. From what I see, it appears that women are more successful if they just own the restaurants themselves, simply avoiding gender stereotypes and obstructions. More women are taking ownership and leadership roles in farming too. While the stereotypical farmer is a man, women have always played a prominent roll in agriculture. Here in San Diego, 27 percent of farms are operated by women. As you will see in this issue, we are lucky to have some very dedicated, creative and visionary women in farming here. It is enlivening to see the wonderful examples of successful and dedicated women profiled in this issue. They are all making a real difference in our world by their example and with their work. They are growing great food, making wonderful wine, cooking up meals that make us feel blessed and providing inspiration.

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{Tidbits} Charting the Waters of San Diego Beer If you’ve ever wanted a thorough, compact and accessible introduction to San Diego County breweries, then look no further than the aptly named Complete Guide to San Diego Breweries by Brandon Hernández. San Diego Reader’s resident beer aficionado and frequent Edible San Diego contributor, Hernández organized a panel of Cicerones (a.k.a. beer sommeliers), journalists and beer industry experts to provide their insights into each local brewery. The guide includes newcomers like Fall Brewing and Valley Center Brewing and well-established ones like Societe. The rating system gives points for beer quality (the most important and most heavily weighted category), service, atmosphere and bonus points for things like food availability.

Brandon Hernández

For quick reference, the guide provides regional maps and lists of breweries organized by overall ratings and by beer quality. But the bulk of the guide is the highly detailed pages in between. Each brewery and satellite tasting room has its own page with points breakdowns, offered beer styles, a map and—what I find most valuable—a short description of the location. Although available in both print and digital, I highly recommend buying the softcover edition. The guide provides ample room for notes and is compact enough to travel in your purse or pocket (if you have big pockets). ~June Owatari

Satellite Tasting Rooms: Exploring the local craft beer industry’s tasting room trend

Barrio Logan is another hot spot for this trend. Otay Mesa’s Border X Brewing Company went in on a space with San Diego Taco Company earlier this year while Vista’s Iron Fist Brewing Company will arrive early next year and North Park’s Thorn St. Brewery is exploring a site there. Elsewhere, Port Brewing Company and The Lost Abbey now operate a small but formidable tasting room in the Cardiff 4

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strip mall that houses Seaside Market, and Santee’s Twisted Manzanita Ales has gone coastal in Pacific Beach. The first to explore the satellite model was Escondido’s Stone Brewing Co., which first opened a Stone Company Store in South Park in 2011. Since then, they have established three similar venues in Downtown San Diego, Oceanside and Pasadena. As with wineries, this model presents an economical way to showcase the brewery’s liquid wares without the outlay of cash required of a full-on production facility. Often they show a different, more artsy side of the business or bring in a food element that’s nonexistent at the company’s headquarters. But primarily, they save beer enthusiasts, present and potential, some serious time, gas and mileage while bringing an authentic taste of all that the brewery has to offer. ~Brandon Hernández

Photos courtesy of Border X Brewing

The San Diego beer scene is starting to mirror wine country, with breweries of all sizes opening satellite tasting rooms. In most cases, they are further-flung operations in the north and east counties saving centrally located urbanites long drives up the interstates. Case in point: Vista’s Belching Beaver Brewery, which opened a nonbrewing space on 30th Street in 2013 and has since been joined in North Park by Point Loma’s Modern Times Beer and a kitchen-equipped sampling space from San Marcos’ Rip Current Brewing Company.

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{Tidbits} Pop-Up Pizzeria: Tribute Pizza Brings Neo–New York Pies to Coffee & Tea Collective Matthew Lyons has tossed dough everywhere from New York to Nairobi, but Tribute Pizza might be his coolest venture yet.

“The best pizza is well-fermented bread with balanced and extremely high-quality toppings,” says Lyons. To that end, his pies are topped with everything from housemade fennel and pork sausage to primo local produce from Suzie’s Farm, Mountain Meadow Mushrooms and Crows Pass Farm. Whole pies typically range from $18–$25. A limited amount of dough is available for each pop-up, so it’s best to place your order by phone before 6pm (619-777-6102), though walk-ins are also welcome.

Photos by Lyudmila Zotova

After the last espresso shot is pulled at North Park’s Coffee & Tea Collective, the shop transforms into a casual pizzeria where Lyons and his team sling neo–New York–style pizzas that are a hybrid of (and tribute to) his two favorite purveyors: Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix and Emilia’s Pizzeria in Berkeley.

Tribute will be at Coffee & Tea Collective every Thursday and Saturday evening 6:30–10pm through the end of the year, except October 11, November 27 and December 25–27. Visit TributePizza.com or follow @tributepizza on Instagram for the latest updates and menus. ~Erin Jackson

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{Local Talent}

Café 21: Infusing San Diego Cuisine with Care and Creativity By John Bechtel Photography by Chris Rov Costa

eyla Javadov, a youthful-looking woman with an unassuming and engaging smile, is the co-owner and chef of Café 21, a new hot spot that opened in April 2014 in the Gaslamp District of San Diego. As you enter Café 21 a profusion of green plants seems to sprout from the brick walls, alternating with glass shelves containing hand-labeled bottles of crafted vodka, gin, rum and bourbon concoctions. A row of glass wine jugs infused with lavender, sage and a dozen other herbs evoke your curiosity as you wait to be seated. Raised in the Ukraine, Leyla learned cooking basics from her Azerbaijani grandmother. The intriguing nature of her San Diego menus reveals that avid experimentation and research are hardwired into her DNA. As a child she was not permitted to use the more expensive food items purchased at the village market for fear she might ruin them with some of her experiments. Today, as a seasoned and singularly original chef, Leyla’s cuisine, unconstrained by geography, is limited only by her imagination and will to culinary adventure.

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Her husband, Alex, who manages the front of the restaurant, drove a taxi and attended university when they first came to San Diego. When Alex shared some of Leyla’s homemade baklava with a friend in the restaurant business, it was an instant continued on page 10

Beet Tartar Serves one but may be multiplied to serve as many as you’d like. 1 cup cubed, roasted beets ½ tablespoon diced shallots 1 tablespoon fresh pomegranate seeds 1 tablespoon candied walnuts (recipe below)

Candied Walnuts

Lemon Oil

¼ cup sugar

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

¼ cup lemon juice

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Salt and pepper to taste

Place olive oil and fresh lemon juice in a blender until well combined.

1 cup chopped walnuts

½ tablespoon beet hummus (recipe below) 1 tablespoon lemon oil (recipe below) 1fried goat cheese ball (recipe below)

Pour sugar into a hot skillet and stir until brown. Add butter, stir until combined. Add walnuts, season with salt and pepper and remove from heat. Beet Hummus

Arugula salad First, prepare candied walnuts, beet hummus, lemon oil and goat cheese ball (see below). Then gently stack beets, shallots, pomegranate seeds, candied walnuts, beet hummus and lemon oil. Garnish with orange slices or other other seasonal fruit. Serve with fried goat cheese ball and an arugula salad dressed with lemon oil.

1 whole roasted beet ¼ cup cooked black-eyed peas 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon orange juice Salt and pepper to taste In a food processor, add all ingredients and mix until well combined.

Fried Goat Cheese Ball 1 ounce goat cheese 1 egg 1 tablespoon milk ½ cup rice flour 1 cup canola oil (for frying) Roll the goat cheese into a ball and set aside. Combine 1 whole egg and milk until mixed. Dip the ball into the egg wash and then dust with rice flour. Repeat 2 more times. Heat oil in a large pan over high heat. Fry the goat cheese ball until golden brown.

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Creamy Potato and Cauliflower Stuffed Flatbread Potato and cauliflower filling:

1 cup Greek yogurt

2 large baking potatoes

¼ cup olive oil

1 large yellow onion

½ cup butter

1 head cauliflower

In a large mixing bowl, mix together flour, baking powder, salt and pepper until all ingredients are incorporated. In a separate bowl, blend the Greek yogurt and olive oil together. Add the wet ingredients into the dry and mix together until a soft dough forms. Separate dough into 6 equal balls. Roll each ball into a large thin circle and spoon equal portions of the filling into the center of each dough circle. Fold the outer edges of the circle into the center, forming a pocket around the filling. Roll

Salt and pepper Peel and boil the baking potatoes until tender, then shred. Cut the onion into small strips and caramelize. Break the cauliflower apart and chop into small pieces. Bake the cauliflower for 10 minutes at 400°. Meanwhile, in a large mixing bowl combine the shredded potatoes with the caramelized onions. Once combined, mix in the roasted cauliflower with a pinch each of salt and pepper. Stuffed Flatbreads 2 cups flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons pepper

the pocket flat. Pan sear each flatbread with butter until golden brown and filling is hot. Serve with sour cream and a Greek salad.

continued from page 8 hit that quickly developed into a catering business, followed by a tiny restaurant with only eight tables. Since those humble beginnings, they have outgrown their Adams Avenue location and opened a second location in the Gaslamp District. Both locations are thriving destination restaurants that feature carefully handcrafted and locally sourced foods as well as a revival of zymology, the science of pickling and infusing the common with the bizarre to produce drinks like the Jalapeño Pear Marg: jalapeño-infused tequila mixed with pear, lime and agave. You can choose from five infused mojitos or six customcreated sangrias; or you can throw caution and tradition to the winds and pair their Cucumber Basil Smash or Berry Whiskey Crush with a lamb shank (braised in apricot, roasted squash, tomato and onion sauce for hours), served with lentils and sautéed spinach. Café 21 is a family-owned business where the staff functions and feels like family. They partner with other local family-owned 10

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businesses and farms, obtaining the freshest ingredients from sustainability-sensitive purveyors such as Tom King Farms, Suzie’s Farm and Specialty Produce, delivered to their front door daily. At Café 21 the flavors and fragrances are often literally plucked from the surrounding green walls to create original and aromatic presentations. Chef Leyla knows how to tease, surprise and delight the most jaded of taste buds. This spring, Leyla recommends her Creamy Potato and Cauliflower Stuffed Flatbread served with sour cream and a Greek salad. For gourmets who suffer from déjà vu, she suggests the brightly colored and decadent Beet Tartar. If you want to try this at home, you will notice this versatile recipe can serve a few or many guests, and that many of the components can be prepared in advance.

John Bechtel is a freelance travel writer, restaurant critic and nonfiction ghostwriter who has “dined well in 20 countries, including meals prepared by some of the world’s best chefs.” He can be reached at jbechtel@thenewvoltaire.com

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By Caron Golden

tepping into Terryl Gavre’s latest business, Bake Sale Café & Bakery in San Diego’s East Village, is like entering what you’d imagine would have been your favorite bakery of the 1940s or ’50s, only transplanted to 2015. The cheery black-and-white checkered curtains, vintage plates on the wall, big glass jar filled with colorful lollipops, and vintage cake stands in a variety of pastel colors overflowing with lemon bars, snickerdoodles, frosted brownies, chocolate croissants and morning rolls certainly spell out the cozy comforts of grandma’s kitchen. But Bake Sale also comes with a 21st-century sensibility in its concrete floors, exposed concrete block walls and “lofty” feel of a contemporary urban setting.

how to bake, how to crochet and knit. I still make her apple strudel.” When she was old enough to visit Seattle, she fell in love with the restaurant culture. Her grandfather helped get her a job at age 14 in a Chinese restaurant, where she worked mornings in the basement peeling shrimp and cleaning beans, then bussed tables in the afternoon. “I loved the excitement in the kitchen. I loved the customers. I worked all through high school in restaurants and after high school I moved to Seattle,” she says. And life took a weird turn. While watching an interview with a Seattle Sonics basketball player, who, single, had just bought a million-dollar home, Gavre had a brainstorm.

And that pretty much sums up Terryl Gavre: warmth and an urge to offer comfort and love through food—with enough business savvy to keep up in today’s edgy environment.

“I thought, ‘I could fix him up. I can help him.’” So, she contacted him and explained what she had in mind—marketing and cooking meals, arranging for cleaners and housekeeping. It was a novel idea in a time before personal chefs or personal assistants.

Gavre’s early history provides a direct link to her life today as a restaurateur. She grew up in a large family of bakers and cooks in the Northwest.

She built her new business, The Surrogate Wife, through word of mouth with local high-end bachelors as clients.

“My cousins and I would be sent to our great-grandmother’s house every summer,” she recalls. “We worked in the garden and canned what we raised. We learned how to plant and when to pick, how to can and

“It gave me my first taste of starting a business and I wanted to use it to save money and open a restaurant,” she says. She was 19. Just a few years later, in 1992, an L.A. producer read march-april 2015

edible San Diego

Photo: courtesy of Bake Sale Bakery

TERRYL GAVRE: PAYING IT FORWARD TO WOMEN CHEFS

about her in a story and Gavre finagled writing the screenplay for what became the TV movie “This Wife for Hire,” starring Pam Dawber. She even got a bit part in the movie.

“My personal mission at this point in my career is to hire and empower more women,” she says.

With the sale of her screenplay, she now had the resources to open her first restaurant. She moved down to San Diego and opened Café 222 shortly after in the Marina District. It too reflects her love of antiques and comfort food with its retro, seductive, waist-bulging menu items, like corned beef hash, chicken-fried steak and eggs, buttermilk pancakes and pumpkin waffles, as well as lunchtime soups and sandwiches. She also launched a food-writing career in 1992 with San Diego Metropolitan Magazine after complaining to the editor about the lousy writing in their food columns. Gavre also wrote for four years as “Paisley Wood” for Ranch & Coast. Writing introduced her to Chef Carl Schroeder. After hitting it off as friends, they partnered in 2006 to open Market in Del Mar. In 2010 the duo opened Bankers Hill with Steve Pagano as their management company partner. “Conceptually, Terryl did the décor and design work. Carl was the culinary side and I did the business side,” Pagano explains. “Terryl works closer with the general manager and front-of-house staff. She’s there more often than any of us, focusing on day-to-day operations.” Pagano appreciates Gavre’s good business sense. “She’s able to look at issues in front of her and make decisions rather quickly. She has a good sense of what customers want and she keeps it simple. She also does great promotion. I’m sure that comes from her food-writing background—she has great energy and can get things done.” Pagano also admires how well Gavre manages her time, especially as a single 14

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mom with two young kids. “I think it’s one of the things that makes her successful. She’s always busy but she manages that. How else could she run three restaurants?”

David Cohn of the Cohn Restaurant Group has known Gavre since she was a teenager and helped her write her first resume back then. Early on he recognized her potential. “She’s one of the most creative and entrepreneurial people I know,” he says. “She’s always been on top of trends and been in the forefront of culinary.”

women mentors, including longtime restaurateur Ingrid Croce. “I met Terryl years ago at a restaurant she worked at in Pacific Beach,” Croce recalls. “She later came in to talk to me around 1991 about the restaurant. I remember her saying to me, ‘I don’t know any women who own restaurants. Can I come by and talk to you?’ “I thought Terryl was a very special human being and that she had what it took. She has an ability to create a magical feeling.” Gavre found Bake Sale head baker Kathleen Shen, a former real estate broker who was also a CIA graduate. “She’s a woman who’s lived, who knew her passion, and had run her own business,” Gavre says of Shen.

Gavre’s intent is to eventually make Shen a partner. “When I first started working with Terryl, she told me that she’s all about Cohn believes that even more than food, helping and promoting women in business,” being an entrepreneur is where her real Shen says. “We have a symbiotic relationship, interests lie in the end. where we’re constantly working together “And why not?” he adds. “It gives and pushing each other to make the bakery d b a a e k h e you an endless source of better.” , r at B en ake n Sh e e S l creative outlet.” al e th To that end, the duo are Ka So, no one was adding cooking classes surprised when and new menu items, Gavre decided as well as working to open a new on new ideas, like a place in the possible late-night East Village, happy hour. the Southern“We have to keep style ACME moving to stay Kitchen & relevant,” Gavre says. Bar. It opened in time for San “The most important Diego Restaurant thing for me in this Photo: Week in January 2014, Chris Rov Costa industry is to be present,” Gavre but closed in August. The adds. “And you have to constantly Southern food concept didn’t take and think ahead. You have to keep your eye on there were some neighborhood issues, she the ball. You have to compartmentalize. You explains. Disappointed, she clearly wasn’t have to stay focused. And you have to be put off the East Village because she opened tough. I take the soft part of me home to the Bake Sale in July 2014. kids. You’re judged by that if you’re a woman, not if you’re a man.” With the bakery, Gavre decided to create a vehicle to mentor women chefs.

“My personal mission at this point in my career is to hire and empower more women,” she says. She feels that she gained from having

Award-winning freelance writer Caron Golden is the author of the blog San Diego Foodstuff and Edible San Diego's blog Close to the Source. She appears frequently on radio, and has contributed to Saveur, Sunset, Culinate, Riviera, the San Diego U-T, the Los Angeles Times and many other publications.

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Women of the Land Spotlight on San Diego’s Women Farmers By Caron Golden Photography by Chris Rov Costa

or as long as there’s been agriculture, there have been women on the farm in one role or another. But women-operated farms historically have been few and far between. Even by tripling the share from 5% in 1978 to 14% in the U.S. by 2007, we’re still talking just barely double digits. And, in the last U.S. Census of Agriculture in 2012, that number didn’t change much. Additionally, women-operated farms tend to be smaller, with fewer acres and lower sales than those owned by men. It’s been referred to as the “grass ceiling,” a situation in which female farmers are regularly denied government and financial support, including loans—all of which makes it more difficult for them to fulfill their potential as food producers. But locally, the County of San Diego’s Department of Agriculture, Weights and Measures reported a slightly different story in 2013. Of the county’s 5,732 farms, almost 27% are owned by women. We talked with four of them—each very different in age, ethnicity, crops and experience. What they have in common is an absolute dedication to the land that gives them the determination to make it work, no matter the obstacles.

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Of the county’s 5,732 farms, almost 27% are owned by women. We talked with four of them—each very different in age, ethnicity, crops and experience. What they have in common is an absolute dedication to the land that gives them the determination to make it work, no matter the obstacles.

“I feel my lifestyle is as a fulltime farmer. It will never leave me.” Alysha Stehly Vesper Vineyards Her last name alone gives away her heritage. Her dad, Al Stehly, is the oldest of a generation of siblings deeply embedded in North County farming. “Farming has been part of my life since day one,” says Alysha Stehly. “Summers were spent checking on groves with my dad or ‘helping’ my mom in the office of their management company.” So, when it came to selecting a career path and college (UC Davis), the 29-year-old Valley Center native knew that farming would be it, although, as she says, “Farming is about family. It isn’t a job or career choice; it is a lifestyle.” Stehly delved into viticulture and enology. She and then boyfriend, now husband, Chris Broomell launched Vesper Vineyards and enjoyed their first harvest in 2008—a single barrel of Pinot Noir. They’ve increased production—despite water issues, challenging regulations and an irritating reluctance of local restaurants to carry local wines. But with almost 3,000 cases produced in their 2014 harvest and recognition as a Winemaker to Watch, Stehly is determined to live up to the promise, while also teaching viticulture classes at Mira Costa College. “I’m still waiting for a paycheck from Vesper, but I still love what we do.”

“ Farming is about family. It isn’t a job or career choice; it is a lifestyle.”

Deborah Zappa Spur Valley Ranch El Cajon native Deborah Zappa, 63, grew up on an egg production ranch run by her mother while her dad taught chemistry and biology at El Cajon High School. “With 46,000 egg-laying chickens, it kind of got into my blood,” she laughs. “I’ve always had a passion for getting dirt under my fingernails.” Zappa’s family eventually moved away from the ranch, but they always had turkeys, chickens and rabbits. Even when she became a special education teacher and raised her own kids, there was always a garden and chickens raised for eggs.

In 2003, Zappa and her husband bought Spur Valley, a seven-and-a-half-acre dude ranch. Widowed three years later, she kept the ranch and in 2010 launched her business at the Golden Hill farmers’ market, while she continued to teach. Today, she and her family, who live on or near the property, keep two cows for personal beef, meat birds, 40 breeder rabbits, over 100 quails and 50 laying hens of various breeds—along with an organic garden. Today, Zappa sells eggs and meat at the Little Italy Mercato and is revamping her strategy for the farm with plans to retire from teaching. “I feel my lifestyle is as a full-time farmer. It will never leave me.” march-april 2015

edible San Diego

Idzai Mubaiwa African Sisters If you grew up on fields of corn, eating what your family planted, moving halfway across the world to an urban center wouldn’t change things. So, when Idzai Mubaiwa, 49, relocated to San Diego from her native Zimbabwe in 2002 with her husband and four daughters, finding land to farm was as important as finding good schools for her girls. She got her start through the International Rescue Committee, with a 30- by 40-foot garden plot adjacent to her sister Tsitsi’s. When her sister died from breast cancer, she took over her plot, then found land to farm in National City just off Market Street. On her four plots she grows magnificent produce, including scallions, carrots, broccoli and greens, beets, kale, Swiss chard, tomatoes and celery, which she sells at the North Park farmers’ market, where she’s been a vendor for four years. Before her farming day begins, she drives an airport shuttle bus starting at 4am. “Eventually, I’d love to just do farming,” she says. She’d also like to have a small organic produce store in City Heights. In the meantime, she’s eager to meet more chefs. “I want to grow what they want to use.”

“ I want to grow what [chefs] want to use.” Laurel Mehl Coral Tree Farm It’s hard to tell there’s a farm behind the cul-de-sac of McMansions on the short Encinitas street, but Coral Tree Farm has been around since the 1800s. Laurel Mehl, 56, who grew up on the property eventually bought by her parents when it was still an eight-acre avocado ranch, tends to a reduced but still vibrant farm filled with exotic heirloom produce, heritage breed chickens, ducks and goats. Amongst her farm animals and produce are New Jersy Giant chickens and Blue Mottled squash, both on the Slow Food Ark of Taste. To subsidize farming the remaining two acres, Mehl also works at her husband’s heating and air conditioning business. “Our goal is to be self-sustaining but expenses are high,” she laments. “Water costs are nuts.”

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Consequently, the avocado trees are mostly gone, with Mehl, a former high school chemistry teacher, planting more sustainable guavas, cherimoyas and vegetables. A huge slow food advocate, “I like people to come by and be involved with the growing space if they have time.” ’Her sons, who live on the property, also help. Mehl has two special passions: her egg business and her seed business. She develops custom heirloom seeds and sprouts trays for customers. “We really love what we do and love to share it,” Mehl says. “To me, it’s a gift.”

Kylie Konyn A Farmer to Watch An outsider may be awed at what seems to be the overachieving determination of 11-year-old Kylie Konyn. But Kylie, the daughter of Frank and Stacey Konyn of Frank Konyn Dairy in the San Pasqual Valley, is doing exactly what she wants— and has been since she was five years old. And what she wants is to be hip deep in animal husbandry. Currently, she has four grass-fed Angus beef projects. She breeds cows, exhibits calves at shows, raises chickens for eggs for the family and to sell to parents at her school and raises free-range turkeys for Thanksgiving. “I think this interest was inherited from my parents,” she says. “My dad has been in dairying his entire life and my mom was a former agriculture teacher. From a very young age I got to go out to the dairy with my dad and work with him and our calf raiser.” Her first love is Heart, the first heifer she raised. “She is what got me involved and

“ It teaches you things that carry over to real-life experiences and it teaches you responsibility about the raising and care of animals.” interested in starting my own dairy herd.” Of course it’s hard for Kylie to sell her animals for market, but she’s already decided to make dairy her career and thinks other girls should get involved in dairy work.

“It teaches you things that carry over to real-life experiences and it teaches you responsibility about the raising and care of animals.”

“ We really love what we do and love to share it,” Mehl says. “To me, it’s a gift.”

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edible San Diego

Shattering the (Wine) Glass Ceiling “I

By Aaron Epstein

t’s an exciting time to be a woman in the wine industry in San Diego,” says nationally renowned sommelier Tami Wong, wine director of Juniper & Ivy Restaurant in Little Italy.

which provides information and family support systems to children with cancer, and also offers educational scholarships to members. Wong herself is among past recipients.

She also acknowledges that this hasn’t always been the case. Wong, who was named one of the Six Best New Sommeliers of 2014 by Wine & Spirits Magazine, has worked her way to the top, and not without encountering the glass ceiling. She reports once being told, “The guys that buy wine here during the day don’t want to buy wine from a woman. I need a man in this position. Besides, you can’t just drop off your baby any time.”

Here in San Diego, local talent abounds on the winemaking side of things as well, most notably in the form of Vesper Vineyards and Stehleon Vineyards’ Alysha Stehly. Stehly, a graduate of the storied Department of Viticulture and Enology at UC Davis, has been recognized in both the San Francisco Chronicle and the Wall Street Journal for her work. In many ways, she embodies the progress that is being made along gender lines throughout California. While the Viticulture and Enology Department was founded in 1935, shortly after the repeal of Prohibition, 30 years passed before it graduated its first woman, in 1965. When Stehly graduated, in 2008, she recalls her class being roughly 50% women.

But the times, they are a-changin’. And it isn’t coincidence that has given San Diego new cachet and led Wong to success. Making a name for oneself in the wine business, as in any other, requires the support of community and, luckily for San Diegans like Wong, that community is well developed here. In fact, it has blossomed into an organization called the San Diego Women’s Wine Alliance (WWA), which in 2014 finally achieved official nonprofit status. The Women’s Wine Alliance has more than 50 active members throughout the county and a mailing list that’s a virtual “who’s who” of women in the San Diego wine industry. In the words of the group’s president, Lisa Redwine, their monthly educational seminars have one simple goal: “to bring up the educational level of the women who work in the wine industry in San Diego.” Vice President Keri Busino adds: “We want everybody—from the novice to the advanced sommelier—to walk out with new knowledge.” As a result, their seminars are among the most advanced opportunities for wine education offered in San Diego. And the Alliance’s work doesn’t stop there; side by side with its focus on education and community is a firm commitment to philanthropy. The WWA is a proud donor to the Emilio Nares Foundation,

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Even so, society has a lot of catching up to do. Stehly admits, “I kept my maiden name because I wanted to be known as my own person in the wine industry and not just the wife.” She also shares humorous anecdotes about truck drivers making deliveries to the winery, only to be shocked when she climbs confidently onto the forklift to unload them herself. Redwine, from the WWA, comes from a culinary background— another historically male-dominated environment. Of her own experiences, she says, “There’s a hierarchy in the kitchen, and every time I’d get to the sweet spot—the sauté position, or the grill—that’s a hard-core, testosterone-driven position—they’d hire the new guy. And I’d be sent back to the pantry.” Even now, although she helms the wine programs for all three restaurants at the La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club, she occasionally encounters a table that asks to speak to “the man in the suit.” Her WWA associate Busino agrees that the industry still has a way to go.

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The Women’s Wine Alliance has more than 50 active members throughout the county and a mailing list that’s a virtual “who’s who” of women in the San Diego wine industry. “Women are becoming a much bigger part of it, but we’re still a developing part of the upper echelons,” she says. “Master sommeliers are still almost entirely men. You don’t see many female executives at the wholesalers. The upper levels of the wine business are still completely male dominated.” But progress is progress and despite the challenges that remain, the present finds these women full of optimism. Regarding the future of the San Diego Women’s Wine Alliance, Redwine says, “In 2015, now that we have our nonprofit status, I’d love to give out $10,000 in scholarships to women in the wine industry in San Diego. That’s the goal.”

Aaron Epstein is the curator of Le Metro Wine (LeMetroWine.com) and was included in Imbibe Magazine's "75 People, places, and flavors that will shape the way you drink in 2015." He has been studying, selling and writing about wine since before he could legally drink it, and has traveled the world to work in almost every aspect of the wine industry. Aaron also contributes to Riviera San Diego and writes his own blog,

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n San Diego, we have enjoyed a boom of farm-to-table restaurants serving fresh, local and seasonal fruits and veggies. For produce lovers, it’s an exciting time to be alive. But did you ever stop to wonder where the current farm-to-table movement came from? Who started it and why? Among the first restaurants in San Diego to rely heavily on truly local produce was Girard Gourmet in La Jolla, founded 27 years ago by Chef/Owner Francois Goedhuys. For the past 13 years, Francois has supplied his kitchen largely from his own organic garden in Julian. But Goedhuys did not set out to build a farm-to-table restaurant. Nor was he necessarily interested in sustainability (as we’ve come to call it). His original motivations stemmed from a simple love of impeccable produce and efficiency. “I started bringing home the kitchen scraps and composting them,” he says. “I hated to see them go to waste.” Soon his garden was flourishing, and he began fantasizing about growing his own food for the restaurant.

Girard Gourmet: Pioneer of Farm-to-Table By Matt Steiger Phototgraphy by Lyudmila Zotova 22

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Goedhuys set up shop in Julian, collaborating with nearby orchards to procure cherries, pears and apples. That’s how he met permaculturist and well-known orchardist Bob Riedy. Riedy now runs the Girard Gourmet farm full time, and he is overseeing a sustainability makeover: installing rainwater swales, moveable chicken pens and symbiotic plants. Today the farm comprises nearly 5,000 square feet of vegetable beds, over 50 fruit trees and a flock of chickens. The produce supplies Goedhuys’ restaurant, his catering business and over 200 school lunches at two La Jolla elementary schools. Fruits and veggies are harvested several times a week and transported in buckets to the restaurant, where they are immediately turned into food. The kitchen scraps

“ We don’t use cardboard, we don’t make trash and we don’t have to store lots of produce at the restaurant,” Goedhuys beams. “I love efficiency!”

are brought back to the farm in the same buckets and fed to the chickens, which provide eggs for the kitchen. “We don’t use cardboard, we don’t make trash and we don’t have to store lots of produce at the restaurant,” Goedhuys beams. “I love efficiency!” Like most great chefs, Goedhuys loves to feed people. On a brisk December day in Julian, we sat down for a simple lunch in his barn. On a rustic table, adjacent to an ancient pot-bellied stove (sadly unlit), we enjoyed mushroom soup, winter greens with citrus dressing and flaky chicken potpie. All the flavors were clear and bright. “It’s the leeks,” he says. “You can’t buy good leeks; they spoil quickly, and the greens are rotten. We grow leeks year round and harvest them when we need them. The greens go into our soup stock every day.” Dessert was strawberry-rhubarb pie. “This was the first year we grew rhubarb,” he says. “This is the last of it. Today we split the rootstock and next year we’ll have more. You really need good compost to grow rhubarb.” As I leave I notice his rain swales are riddled with something I know quite well to be a weed. He looks at me like I’m crazy. “That’s wild purslane, one of the most nutritious vegetables you can grow. It holds the mounds together, and we harvested over 200 pounds of it this summer for frittatas.” Suddenly my picture of Goedhuys is very clear. An Old-World, old-school chef who loves efficiency as much as he loves working with the land. For him the interplay of seasons, soil and sustenance is its own reward.

Matt Steiger is a physicist, fisherman, home brewer, urban farmer, forager and wannabe chef. He is always on the lookout for the best produce, fresh fish, great brews and the perfect cup of coffee. Follow him at theFoodLunatic.com, on Twitter @foodlunatic or contact him directly at steigy@gmail.com.

Girard Gourmet serves classic café cuisine, inspired by fresh seasonal produce from Goedhuys’ garden. Sweet and savory breads and pies are available at the bakery counter. They are located at 7837 Girard Ave. in La Jolla. GirardGourmet.com. For seasonal offerings, visit them on Facebook.

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{The Good Earth}

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

Morocco Gold Dates: Steady Manager Sustains San Diego Farmers’Markets by June Owatari

hen Andrea Hankins and her husband, Dave, first moved to the city of Bard, California, their property was lined with lemon trees near their neighbor’s land. But one day that neighbor tore them out, thinking the trees belonged to him.

fungus that threatens 95% of banana farming or the coffee rust fungus that threatens small Central and South American coffee farmers.

“It was a fluke,” Andrea says. But the couple had already been considering growing dates, so the fluke turned into opportunity, the start of Morocco Gold Dates.

But Morocco Gold Dates makes it work. Even in drought-stricken California, the couple has the opposite concern. “With all the humidity and rain this last year, we lost a lot,” Andrea says. Date palms prefer hot desert areas with low humidity. “The dates rot if we can’t get into the fields to pick.”

In 1992, the Hankinses’ company, Morocco Gold Dates, started selling their fresh dates at a swap meet, then moved on to farmers’ markets. Now they sell throughout county including Hillcrest, Poway and Leucadia. They also ship to customers who live outside of San Diego. “I have one customer from the swap meet who still buys from me after 15 years,” Andrea says.

Despite some hardship, Andrea and Dave Hankins still love their work—and the fruit of their work. Andrea’s favorite way to eat dates is in her oatmeal every morning. “Just oatmeal, milk and dates,” she says. The dates add enough sweetness. Every picking season, Dave climbs the palms and eats the dates right off the tree. “He makes himself sick sometimes,” she says.

Despite their popularity, Morocco Gold Dates is a small operation. Dave does most of the labor, which involves de-thorning the date palms, hand-pollinating, thinning, picking and bagging the fruit. But he does hire seasonal help for the thinning process (which allows the dates to grow larger than when they are left alone) and for picking. Andrea takes care of sales while also working as sponsor-manager for the Santee Farmers’ Market.

When asked if they planned to grow their business or increase production—perhaps to offset her husband eating all the dates— Andrea says no, “as it’s already a lot of work.” Plus, she says with a laugh, “we’re hoping to retire at some point.”

Relying on one crop for income is tough. Lacking the diversity of multiple types of plant and pollinator species, one single environmental variable can devastate the entire crop, like the Ploetz

See Chef Sharon Wilson’s date recipes on ediblesandiego.com. June Owatari loves that she can find new craft beer and food in San Diego every day, though her waistline regrets it. She particularly enjoys brewpubs with farm-to-table ethics. You can read June’s thoughts on food, music and DIY on Twitter @Juniejuniejune or at her blog EatDrinkCraft.Wordpress.com. march-april 2015

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Photo: Chris Rov Costa

{Liquid Assets}

Los Pilares Nascent Winemakers Put San Diego on the Wine Map By John Alongé Over the course of the past 10 years or so, San Diego County has been quietly evolving into a bona fide, high-quality wine-producing region. The number of wineries and vineyards has increased dramatically, with licensed wineries in the county now totaling well in excess of 100. Local wines produced from locally grown grapes have earned scores of medals in prestigious wine competitions all over the country. The county’s numerous microclimates and geographic diversity have encouraged the planting of a substantial number of grape varieties, many of them relatively little known and sparsely planted elsewhere in California. This has contributed to the production of a dizzying array of unique and interesting wines, far different from the norm in many other wine regions, which tend to concentrate on a limited number of commercially viable varieties.

Enter a small group of San Diego–based garage winemakers and backyard vineyardists who are turning the world of California wine on its head. In 2009, local wine enthusiasts Michael Christian, Coleman Cooney, Jay McCarthy and Pelin Wood Thorogood teamed up to form a general partnership under the name Los Pilares (the pillars). Their mission: make clean, honest wines from high-quality, locally sourced grapes that would clearly express the unique characteristics of the grapes’ origins. And, by the way, they wanted their wines to be natural wines, made with minimal manipulation in the winery and usually without any additives or preservatives. What then, exactly, are natural wines? While there is no legally defined definition of the term, it has come to mean wines that are From left to Right: Jay McCarthy, Pelin Wood Thorogood, Michael Christian, Eric Van Drunen, Coleman Cooney

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edible San Diego

produced from sustainably (and sometimes organically) grown grapes and are made without the addition of cultured yeast, yeast nutrients, acids, enzymes, coloring agents or any of the other additives that are part and parcel of most modern commercial winemaking. Also, natural wines generally are made with little or no sulfur dioxide, avoid the use of techniques like micro-oxygenation and filtration and tend to eschew the use of oak as a flavoring component. The goal is to make wines with freshness, complexity and a keen sense of place.

“ We were eminently dissatisfied with the evolution of California wines, so we decided to do something about it and make our own.”

“When we created Los Pilares, our goal was to make wine that was fundamentally enjoyable,” explains founder Michael Christian. “We were eminently dissatisfied with the evolution of California wines, so we decided to do something about it and make our own. We gravitated toward natural wines not [because of ] dogma, but we were curious and thought it might be a means to our particular end. We all agreed that if we started with crisp, tart, healthy, balanced fruit that we wouldn’t have to manipulate it.” Their first vintage, from locally sourced Grenache and Carignan, appeared in 2010 with almost no use of conventional winemaking techniques. In 2011, they jumped fully into the natural wine arena, producing a wine made with no added sulfites. Because of their confidence in the quality of the fruit, their minimalist winemaking approached the extreme. They used 100% whole berries with no stems and absolutely no additives or preservatives of any kind. The wine’s only ingredients were fresh grapes. It was not filtered, fined or even racked except to blend. Essentially, it was the purest possible expression of the grapes. They followed that effort in 2012 with a natural wine made from 100% Grenache that fermented for 18 months instead of the usual week or so.

Those wines will eventually be followed by the release of the 2014 vintage, to include another sparkling Muscat as well as a sparkling red wine made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced entirely from vines on the Rincon Indian Reservation.

The wine world’s response has been breathtakingly positive. Highly esteemed wine guru Jon Rimmerman, owner of importer/ retailer Garagiste in Seattle, has highlighted the Los Pilares Grenache/Carignan as one of his featured wine finds. Here are a couple of Rimmerman’s comments: “Among the most exciting wine projects in the country,” “It should be opened and enjoyed by all of us to prove that the U.S. can and does make relevant, special and ground-breaking wine.” Wine writer Jon Bonné of the San Francisco Chronicle placed the 2013 Los Pilares Sparkling Muscat in the newspaper’s Top 100 Wines of 2014. Bonné’s description of the wine is laudatory: “A joyous new offering from SoCal’s resurgent winemaking posse. Muscat has a long San Diego history, and this revives it in bottlefermented sparkling form. It has a slightly cloudy aspect, like a great saison beer, with lees suspended in the bottle adding just the right weight to florid Muscat, nectarine and watermelon flavors.” And the accolades keep coming. What does the future hold for Los Pilares? “We want to remain close to the growers, vineyards and vines here in San Diego County,” says Michael Christian. “We’re doing some crazy stuff now and it seems to be working, people are taking notice.” Eric Van Drunen adds, “We hope the market will evolve to support lesser-known varietal wines.”

That kind of forward thinking is what it will take to help put San For the 2013 vintage, they joined forces with Eric Van Drunen, Diego County squarely on the world wine map. owner/winemaker of San Diego’s Vinavanti Urban Winery. Up until that time, Los Pilares wines had all been made on a custom crush basis, meaning that they did Popularly known as the Wine Heretic, John Alongé Where to get Los Pilares wines in not have a winemaking facility of their own. is a well-respected “educational entertainer” on San Diego County: Eric, a kindred spirit regarding winemaking food, wine, craft beer and spirits with well over • LosPilaresWine.com (order online) philosophy, offered his winery as a home base for 2,000 corporate presentations on his résumé. • Seaside Market (Cardiff ) future Los Pilares wine production, all of which Additionally, he teaches in the Wine Certificate • The Patio on Goldfinch (Mission Hills) is now done at Vinavanti by Eric. That year, program at San Diego State University and serves • The Rose Wine Pub (South Park) their association produced a sparkling Muscat as as the director of marketing for the San Diego • V inavanti Urban Winery (Mira Mesa) well as a Grenache/Carignan blend. Both wines County Vintners Association. Connect with John were, of course, made exclusively from San Diego at john@wineheretic.com • Vintage Wines (Miramar Road) County grapes.

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From planting grapes to serving it all happens at wine, From plantingwine, grapes to serving Handcrafted red, rosé and white Highland Hills Winery. wines, showcasing the Ramona it all happens Highland Hills Winery. Our at winery focuses on Valley AVA. Bring a picnic two basicon priciples: Our winery focuses two basic pricipals: and enjoy the views at our Family and Quality. sustainable ranch. Dog friendly.

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{To Your Health}

hen I speak of real food within the vast realm of food culture, I find it peculiar that I must define what real food is. Bringing in freshly picked berries and newly harvested cucumbers from my mother’s garden comes as second nature to me—I was raised with apples and apricots growing just outside my window in lieu of fences and telephone wires. But where is this line drawn between foods that are real and foods that are somehow less than real? How are we to differentiate? For Chef Centehua Deneken real food is clean and sustainably conscientious, but also close to the source. In her eyes, this can simply mean knowing the process by which food came to be: from seed, to farmer, to kitchen and finally to nourishment. The shorter the route to nourishment, the more real the food.

“ Make food with love,” she insists. “It’s that important. There’s a link with everything you do and how things turn out when you’re really invested and when your heart is really in it.” Centehua, whose name means unity or oneness in Nahuatl, an indigenous language spoken in south-central Mexico, holds the position of head chef at Liberty Advance, a nonprofit retreat facility nestled in southeastern San Diego County, where she creates menus based on seasonally available food. Her training is rather unconventional: She cites classical ballet as her education in the culinary arts. She believes there is an important similarity between dance and food, which influenced her education in the culinary arts. “Food is there to give pleasure, but also to fuel you. It’s not an obsession with the body but with how you feel,” she says. Centehua’s journey into real foods began in the kitchens of her adolescence.

The Ritual of Real Food with Chef Centehua Deneken By Amanda Kelly Photography by Chris Rov Costa

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“I saw a lot of goodness coming from the kitchen,” she says. “My nanny, who was indigenous, would make homemade food every day.” She describes herself as having been a “sickly child,” though. Dangerous fevers that often ended in seizures sent her to the hospital on more than one occasion. Her mother, with the aid of her nanny, looked to alternative medicine for help. Ancient detoxifying remedies such as chlorella, cilantro and bone broth restored Centehua to health and ultimately solidified her faith in the healing powers of real food. Her culinary attitudes were quite accidental. She had been recently divorced and didn’t feel good in her body. When she stumbled upon a raw foods cookbook, it catalyzed a deep transformation in her life, healing her mind, body and spirit once again with food. Of her own accord, she began preparing foods for her friends. “I saw the power that it really has to assist people in some more serious issues. It’s a healing tool,” she said. She doesn’t consider herself a “raw foodist.” Her diet has shifted over the years and she

Raw White Chocolate Spheres Ingredients: 2 cups cashews ⅓ cup shredded coconut ½ cup cacao butter 7 Medjool dates (pitted) ¼ teaspoon He-shou-wu (optional, Chinese Adaptogen Herb) 1 teaspoon vanilla ¼ cup lucuma powder (herbal sweetener) 1 teaspoon mesquite powder considers such dogma counterproductive to overall health and wellbeing. “Those kinds of dogmas I don’t think are healthy. This is not for everybody, so I think it’s a detoxifying diet. It’s a good tool for healing and for restoring.” Years later, after she moved to San Diego, her journey to nourish her life would come full circle—once again back into the kitchen when she had to decide which foods to prepare for her own children. “Having children was really the beginning and the remembering into this healing journey,” she says. “It was really a journey into self love. Food is a way to love yourself and to love others.”

1 drop Medicine Flower (Theobroma cacao) extract (optional) 1 pinch salt Shredded coconut and hemp seeds for dusting Instructions: Place cashews, coconut and cacao butter in food processor. Process until ingredients resemble fluffy flour. Add remaining ingredients until mixture comes together like dough. Shape into small spheres and roll in a blend of coconut and hemp seeds. Keep refrigerated until ready to enjoy.

Before putting together a menu, Centehua checks with local farmers to see what they have harvested. This cultivates a farmerdirect relationship and further embodies her philosophy of keeping it close to the source. “I love supporting my local farmers and we’re so lucky here with almost everything.” Her absolute favorite foods to prepare are raw desserts. “It’s Mary Poppins’ wisdom,” she says. “Sugar does help the medicine go down. There are so many good things in something that is sweet.” In many ways her story is not so much about real food as it is about how love, ritual and food can coalesce in the kitchen to nourish our lives and replenish our spirits. Real food offers real connections to people and also to the earth that we inhabit. Centehua’s greatest message is about healing oneself through nourishment and changing the health of our community from the inside out. “Make food with love,” she insists. “It’s that important. There’s a link with everything you do and how things turn out when you’re really invested and when your heart is really in it.” To find a rich source of information on Centehua’s personal chef services, educational opportunities and catering services, visit Centehua.com

Amanda Kelly is a freelance writer based in San Diego. Her roots rest somewhere between the Pacific Northwest and the headwaters of the Mississippi River. She strives to inspire a greater appreciation for Mother Earth through the art of

Notes about ingredients: In Traditional Chinese Medicine He-shou-wu is an herb used to nourish the heart and open up blocked energetic pathways. Lucuma is a low-glycemic, plant-based sugar substitute, and mesquite powder is mineral rich with nutty, smoky, sweet flavors that provide a stable base for this sweet treat. Many of the unique ingredients used in this recipe can be found at Ocean Beach People’s Organic Food Market, Whole Foods or online at NavitasNaturals.com

storytelling as well as living each day naturally and to its fullest.

march-april 2015

edible San Diego

Rotating Diets for Rotating Crops By Vincent Rossi

Photography by Chris Rov Costa

n a New York Times op-ed last May, awardwinning chef and farm-to-table advocate Dan Barber noted that while the vast majority of Americans today “say sustainability is a priority when purchasing food,” the reality continues to be “Big Food is getting bigger, not smaller.” He focused on one key to achieving true sustainability: the role of crop rotation in maintaining soil quality, thus ensuring flavorful and nutritious harvests.

Klaas Martens, an upstate New York grower of the emmer wheat Barber uses to bake bread for his restaurant, practices crop rotation. On a tour of Martens’ farm Barber saw “fields of less-coveted grains and legumes like millet, barley and kidney beans, as well as cover crops like mustard and clover, all of which [Klaas] plants in meticulously planned rotations,” which “dictate the quality of the soil, which means they dictate the flavor of the harvests as well.” Each crop has a specific function, from restoring nutrients to reducing pests and disease to “grabbing [nitrogen] from the atmosphere and storing it in the plants’ roots,” Barber explained. A problem arises because limited consumer demand for these “less-coveted” crops means that most of the harvest goes to livestock feed, paying far less to the farmers than selling food for human consumption. “By creating a market for these crops,” Barber wrote, “we can create more value for the farmer and for our own diets, while supporting the long-term health of the land.” Trish Watlington, co-owner and resident farmer of the Red Door and Wellington restaurants in the Mission Hills neighborhood of San Diego, said she was “very interested” in Barber’s ideas. 32

edible San Diego

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Watlington tends a half-acre micro farm that serves as a prime source, supplemented with produce from nearby farms, of ingredients for her restaurants’ offerings. “Rotational crops are something we strongly believe in,” said Karrie Hills, Red Door and Wellington executive chef. “We pride ourselves in having a no-waste garden, from roots to fruits.” As an example, Hills said, “I use all parts of the mustard. Picked smaller, it’s not as fibrous and it’s good in salads. At the more mature stage I sauté it. Even at its latest stage, I use it for pickling, with the flowers visible in the pickling, and I use the flowers for a garnish.” She said she does the same for various stages of buckwheat, another cover crop. Joe Magnanelli, executive chef at the Urban Kitchen Group, says of mustard greens, “We love these! They are used in our pastas, our daily ragú, they accompany proteins and specials.” Among other cover crops he uses are dandelion greens, nettles, sorrel and arugula. Magnanelli calls arugula “probably the most recognized and guest-accepted cover crop. It is an Italian food favorite.”

“ We can create more value for the farmer and for our own diets, while supporting the long-term health of the land.” Dan Barber restaurants’ patrons reluctant to try dishes featuring less-well-known ingredients, Rossman replied, “Sometimes, but they tend to trust us more as a farm-to-table restaurant, especially when we’re serving the fruits or vegetables alongside a protein that’s a bit more well known.” “Conscious eaters I think will always seek out new and interesting foods, as will producers and artisans of food,” said Pete Balistreri, San Diego regional chef for Tender Greens and founder of P. Balistreri Salumi. Interestingly, the use of cover crops as part of Barber’s vision of sustainable food production seems to be problematic for San Diego County and even for Southern California in general. While Watlington and other micro-farm-scale operations like Urban Plantations enthusiastically utilize them, some larger farms supplying local restaurants don’t, citing climatic and financial reasons.

“I take pride in keeping my menu open,” said Hills, noting they use phrases like “roasted garden vegetables” and “from the vine salad” instead of mentioning specific varieties to reflect what’s in season or available at the moment. “Our guests respect that,” she said, or if they might question, “they’re reluctant to be mad about it.” “It’s important not to be so trendy,” she said, adding that eliminating the specific verbiage inspires clients to ask, “what’s on ‘Farm to Fork’ tonight?’ Jeff Rossman, owner and executive chef for the Terra Hospitality Group, is one of the pioneers of the farm-to-table movement in San Diego. Asked if he found his

“In the Southwest no [larger farm] uses cover crops due to the lack of rain,” said Robin Taylor, co-owner of Suzie’s Farm, a 140-acre organic operation that grows vegetables for local restaurants as well as its own CSA. He added that he does use native weeds, which add organic matter, to replenish his soil.

David Barnes, of Crows Pass Farm, has been supplying local restaurants with organic produce for more than two decades. He called cover cropping “an enormous gamble here…. One time I planted five acres of peas and vetch and received very little rain. The crop grew to four inches tall, fixated no nitrogen, very little organic matter to turn in. Total waste of time and money. I can’t afford to water cover crops with current water limitations in Southern California.” Paul Reeb of Point Loma Farm said he doesn’t have room or time to grow cover crops. “We’re not a big farm: 10 acres.” His organic farm products include heirloom tomatoes, greens and peppers, along with some livestock. “Everything we grow we sell to the restaurants,” said Reeb, who replenishes his soil by using mulch and manure. “I’m not seeing increased sales in ‘cover crops,’” said Nathan Bochler, manager of the local farmers’ market program for Specialty Produce, an organic produce distributor. “As far as ‘less-known crops,’ consuming foraged items and crop byproducts seems to be on the upswing.” Examples he cited included sweet potato leaves, pepper leaves, sprouting kales and nasturtium pods. Bochler said many farmers were “being a little more creative” in what they grow in response to feedback from chefs. He said his program provides “a connection between producers and consumers. Ultimately, the consumer has to be educated and it has to taste good.”

Vincent Rossi has been a contributor to Edible San Diego since 2008. He is the author of three books on San Diego County history and writes a weekly blog, The San Diego History Seeker. His special interests are history, politics and culture, with a special appreciation of the interrelationship between culture and food. With his wife, Peggy, Vincent co-owns StorySeekers, a research and publishing company for family history, memoir and historical books. march-april 2015

edible San Diego

{Liquid Assets}

Photo courtesy of Tim Stahl for Green Flash

Brew Times Two Green Flash Brewing Co. Acquires Alpine Beer Co.

By Lauren Lastowka

“L

et me tell you a story,” Pat McIlhenney says. “When I started out, I wanted to build a little brewery to take care of Alpine, that’s it. I was never forward-looking, I never wanted to sell.” For McIlhenney, who has run Alpine Beer Company out of a small storefront for 13 years, brewing has always been about a commitment to quality, to independence and to doing things right. But quality attracts fans, and over time that fan base grows. Recently, McIlhenney has seen a demand for his beers that has outpaced his supply. So in November 2014, he took a step that might surprise his former self: He merged with Green Flash Brewing Co. “Our overriding driving force was to try to answer the cry for more beer,” McIlhenney explains of the decision. It started in November 2013, when McIlhenney was approached by Mike Hinkley, co-founder and co-owner of Green Flash, with the offer to brew three of Alpine’s beers—Hoppy Birthday, Duet and Nelson— on Green Flash’s system. McIlhenney, who had been exploring his options to increase production, agreed, and “on a handshake deal” the contract brewing started. The two breweries hit it off immediately. “The excitement [Green Flash] employees showed when brewing our beers was pretty evident,” says McIlhenney. Hinckley agrees:

edible San Diego

march-april 2015

Left to right: Chuck Silva, Green Flash Brewing Co. Brewmaster; Pat McIlhenney, Alpine Beer Co Brewmaster; Mike Hinkley, CEO and Co-Founder Green Flash Brewing Co.

“It really energized our people.” Soon, McIlhenney and Hinckley had the same idea: “Why don’t we make this official?” The new arrangement allows Alpine beers to be brewed at Green Flash facilities, but also leaves a large amount of autonomy at the Alpine location, which is still operated by McIlhenney. “Absolutely nothing changes,” McIlhenney says of his day to day. “It’s business as usual. We will still independently do our thing.” What will change is the amount of Alpine beer that will be available, and the number of markets it will be distributed to. Green Flash will brew the three Alpine beers it started with, plus Alpine Ale, McIlhenney’s Irish Red, Captain Stout, Pure Hoppiness and Exponential Hoppiness. It will start bottling Alpine beers this spring, and distributing them to markets outside of San Diego—a first for Alpine. Green Flash will also involve McIlhenney in Cellar 3, their forthcoming barrel-aging and bottling facility in Poway, which will provide 10 times the barrel capacity for Alpine’s sour and barrel-aged beers. There will also, of course, be a collaboration beer. As for quality, McIlhenney is satisfied. “We put on Green Flash–produced Nelson at

the [Alpine] pub—there was absolutely no perception of difference. That’s very satisfying—it tells me we are doing the right thing.” In fact, McIlhenney seems hard-pressed to think of any downside to the arrangement. “If everything goes the way it’s going right now, I have absolutely no reservations. We structured this so that it’s win-win for everyone—for Alpine, for Green Flash and for the public.” Hinkley agrees. “It’s really exciting for me to help Pat and Val [McIlhenney] and the whole team over there and really be the piece of the puzzle that they were missing. It’s not like Green Flash was sitting around needing to buy a brewery to expand our operation. This is such a good fit. It’s just going to be a lot of fun for us, another way for us to grow and learn.”

Lauren is a writer and editor based in San Diego specializing in food, craft beer, nutrition and preventive health. She serves as a manager for the health content team at American Specialty Health, and formerly served as the managing editor of Edible San Diego. She has published a craft beer column for the San Diego Uptown News and served on the volunteer board of Slow Food Urban San Diego. Explore her recently launched writing and editing firm, FlintAndSteelWords.com

SDG&E Energy Innovation Center: Demonstration Kitchen Lights the Way

By Michelle Poveda appliances, since we don’t sell the equipment and are brand- and fuelneutral.”

Photo: Arash Afshar, Port of San Diego

How does it work? If a restaurant is looking to purchase a new oven, its staff can bring their ingredients onsite to test each inventoried oven in the center. Once an owner is ready to make a purchase, SDG&E connects them with the appropriate vendor. Nothing is sold or purchased onsite; rather, they act as the facilitator, their mission being to encourage the use of energy-efficient equipment across San Diego.

alomon Maciel, sous chef at Hilton Harbor Island, took home the title of Top Green Chef 2014 at the San Diego Gas & Electric Energy Innovation Center on September 30. Three chefs from the Port of San Diego’s Green Business Network member restaurants competed, including Chef Roy Hendrickson of Kona Kai Resort and Chef Ricardo Jarquin of Hilton Bayfront. Using sustainable, local ingredients, the chefs employed the Innovation Center’s little-known energy-efficient test kitchen. Nestled in a nondescript strip mall, the SDG&E Energy Innovation Center is

a hidden gem planted in the middle of Clairemont. Its shining parking lot solar panels, garden beds and modern architecture create quite a contrast to its dilapidated surroundings. Inside, the center offers seminars and resources for those looking to “green up” their homes and businesses. The center’s demonstration kitchen is a one-stop shop for food service professionals to test and compare energy-efficient cooking equipment. Says Erin Coller, communications manager at SDG&E, “We have over 50 energy-efficient appliances available for businesses to try out. We provide a comfortable environment for companies looking to purchase new

The center is doing what it can to promote the kitchen and seminars. “We market the kitchen and what we have to offer, in a variety of ways,” Coller says, “including email notices about upcoming seminars, collaborations with various Chamber of Commerce business groups that have restaurants as members, partnerships with the San Diego Water Authority and the Port District of San Diego.” The center’s seminars are offered through the year, sharing information on how to save money and energy on everything from lighting to landscaping. For more information, visit SDGE.com/eic

CHECK OUT OUR HEALTHY, SEASONAL RECIPE BLOG AT www.thrivewellness.com

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edible San Diego

{Resources & Advertisers}

{Local Marketplace}

EVENTS 29TH ANNUAL FALLBROOK AVOCADO FESTIVAL

Celebrate Fallbrook’s agricultural heritage at this street-fair style community festival, April 19, on Main St. in Downtown Fallbrook. Farmers’ market, guacamole contest, children’s car race, food, beer gradens and lots of avocados. Call 760-728-5845, or email info@ fallbrookchamberofcommerce.org for more information.

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COLLABORATION KITCHEN

Bring your own beer or wine and get ready for fun, great food and to learn about seafood from top San Diego chefs. Events held in the warehouse benefit San Diego children and charities in need. Produced by Catalina Offshore Products and Specialty Produce. • facebook.com/collaborationkitchen

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EDIBLE SAN DIEGO TOUR TO PIEDMONT ITALY

Join Edible San Diego publishers on a week-long journey, Sept 18-25, 2015, exploring the regional foods, wines and craft beers of the Piedmont in northwest Italy. Limited to 12 people. Call 805-886-1551 for more information.

San Diego Solar Ovens sandiegosolarovens.com sdsolarovens@gmail.com

RANCHO LA PUERTA

Nourish your body and celebrate Baja cuisine and wines April 4, June 27, August 15 and November 21 at farm-to-table wine dinners and special events at La Cocina Que Canta, Ranco La Puerta’s culinary center nestled in the heart of a six-acre organic garden. • events@lacocinaquecanta.net • lacocinaquecantaevents.com

Come t o

ShOp.

Stay for

Lunch !

SAN DIEGO CHILDREN’S DISCOVERY MUSEUM

The museum celebrates Read Across America Day on March 2. The Preschool Science Workshop Series runs March 16, 17 & 18 with three half-hour workshops from 10 to 10:30am, Bugs & Butterflies, From Seed to Plant, and Math Tools. 320 N. Broadway in Escondido. Kids admitted free. • 760-233-7755 • sdcdm.org

Sunday Market SundayFarmers Farmers Market FARM Sunday Market90SUZIE’S minute, u-pick public tours of the 140-acre farm located just atFarmers the Valley Valley Fort Fort at the Fort Sunday Farmers Market

at the Valley Fort

3757 South Mission Rd. • Fallbrook CA 3757 South Mission Road Fallbrook CA 92028 3757 South Mission Road Fallbrook CA 92028

Open Everyevery Sunday 10am to 3pm Open Sunday Open Every Sunday 10am to 3pm 10 am to 3pm vendor info: Jeanniehathaway2011@gmail.com or 760-390-9726

3757 SouthforMission Road Fallbrook CA 92028 more info email: vffarmfresh@gmail.com for more info email: vffarmfresh@gmail.com Open Sunday 10am to 3pm for Every info email vffarmfresh@gmail.com

south of Imperial Beach. Tours cost $10 per person and $10 per bag of produce harvested. Tours start every Tues at 3:30pm and every Sat at 10am and 12:30pm. • suziesfarm.com/

SAN DIEGO BOTANIC GARDEN

Spring Garden Festival & Tomatomania, featuring herbs & vendorVendors info: Jeanniehathaway2011@gmail.com or 760-390-9726 bromeliads, March 14-15, 2015; Spring Party with Bunny, April 4; contact Amanda Atwood at for more info email: vffarmfresh@gmail.com ArtFest, April 11-12; Lady Bug Day, April 18; Chocolate Festival, May alove.atwood@att.net or 619-417-8334 FollowJeanniehathaway2011@gmail.com us on Facebook: Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market vendor info: or 760-390-97269. • Call 760-436-3036 for info, or go to sdbgarden.org/events.htm. Follow us on Facebook: Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market

Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market

Thank these advertisers for their local and sustainable ethic by supporting them with your business.

FARMS, FARMERS’ MARKETS & PRODUCE DISTRIBUTION SERVICES BLUE TURTLE PRODUCTIONS FARMERS’ MARKETS

Mira Mesa (Tue, 2:30-6 fall; 2:30-7 spring); State Street Farmers’ Market in Carlsbad Village (Wed, 3-6 fall; 3-7 spring); Kearny Mesa (Fri, 10:30-1:30), and Leucadia (Paul Ecke Central School) (Sun, 10-2). 858-272-7054 • leucadia101.com

ENCINITAS STATION FARMERS’ MARKET

At the corner of E St. & Vulcan every Wed, 5-8 May-Sept, 4-7 Oct-April. • 760-651-3630 • encinitas101.com/

ESCONDIDO FARMERS’ MARKET

Sponsored by the Escondido Arts Partnership. Tues 2:30-6pm year round on Grand Ave. between Juniper and Kalmia. • 760-480-4101 • escondidoarts.org

FARM TO OFFICE

Local farm-fresh nuts, dried and fresh fruits and local artisan foods delivered to office locally or mailed anywhere. • info@ farmtooffice.com • 209-712-2870 • farmtooffice.com

GOOD NEIGHBOR GARDENS

Delivers organic, locally grown, pesticide-free produce from San Diego yards through a CSA model. • goodneighborgardens@ gmail.com • 858-375-6121 • goodneighborgardens.com

HILLCREST FARMERS’ MARKET

Sunday, 9-2 at the DMV, 3960 Normal St. • 619-299-3330 • hillcrestfarmersmarket.com

KEYS CREEK LAVENDER FARM

Tours Wed through Sun, 10am to 3pm during the bloom in May and June. Soap making, English High Tea, a beautiful wedding venue. • info@kclfarm.com • 760-742-3844 • kclfarm.com

LA JOLLA OPEN AIRE MARKET

Sunday, 9-1 at La Jolla Elementary school on Girard. 7335 Girard Ave. at Genter. • 858-454-1699 • lajollamarket.com

LA MESA VILLAGE FARMERS’ MARKET

Friday, 3-6pm fall/winter, 3-7pm spring/summer. • outbackfarm@sbcglobal.net • 619-249-9395 • cityoflamesa.com

NORTH SAN DIEGO FARMERS’ MARKETS

Sun 10:30-3:30 at the Sikes Adobe Historic Farmstead. Just off I-15 at Via Rancho Pkwy, Escondido • info@NSDCFM.com • 858-735-5311 • northsandiegofarmersmerket.com

san diego seed company Local Organic Heirloom Seeds

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Monday-Friday 7:30am to 11:00am Downtown San Diego location only

110 W. Broadway, San Diego, CA 92101 Phone: (619) 795-2353 tendergreens.com

edible San Diego

march-april 2015

www.sdseedco.com

PELTZER’S FARM

{Local Marketplace}

RESTAURANTS, FOODIE DESTINATIONS & CATERING

A beautiful setting in Temecula Wine Country for weddings, receptions, birthdays, photo shoots and other events. 39925 Calle Contento, Temecula 92591 • 951-695-1115 • peltzerfarms.com

A.R. VALENTIEN

Elegant timbered room overlooking the 18th hole of the Torrey Pines Golf Course. Artisan Table, Thursday nights. 11480 N. Torrey Pines Rd. • 858-453-4420 • lodgetorreypines.com

RANCHO SANTA FE FARMERS’ MARKET

Sun 9am–1:30pm. 16079 San Dieguito Rd., Rancho Santa Fe 92067 • 619-743-4263 • RanchoSantaFeFarmersMarket.com

ANNEL & DREW’S KITCHEN

SD COUNTY FARM BUREAU FARMERS’ MARKETS

Mobile catering, farmers markets and private parties. At State Street Farmers Market Carlsbad (Wed, 3-6), Oceanside Sunset (Thur, 5-9) and Leucadia Farmers’ Market (Sun, 10-2) • 858210-5094 • anneldrewskitchen.com

College Area, 4747 College Ave. (Wed, 2-6); Linda Vista, 6900 Linda Vista Rd. (Thur, 2-7, and 2-6 in winter); City Heights, Wightman St. between Fairmount & 43rd (Sat, 9-1) and San Marcos on Restaurant Row, San Marcos Blvd. & Via Vera Cruz (Sun, 10-2). WIC and EBT Market Bucks accepted. • 760-5800116 • sdfarmbureau.org

…be human fully alive!

Seed Salt

Seeds. Superfoods. Salt.

BLIND LADY ALE HOUSE

Local & craft brews, Neapolitan style pizza, housemade charcuterie, local veggies. 3416 Adams Ave., San Diego • 619-255-2491 • blindladyalehouse.com

SAN DIEGO MARKETS

Pacific Beach on Bayard btwn Grand & Garnet (Tue, 2-7), North Park (Thu, 3-7), and Little Italy Mercato now on Cedar St. (Sat, 9-2). • 619-233-3901 • sandiegomarkets.com

BURGER LOUNGE

Burgers made from sustainably raised, grassfed beef and other pastured meats. Eight locations in San Diego County: Kensington, Coronado, Little Italy, Hillcrest, Gaslamp, La Jolla, Del Mar and Carlsbad! • burgerlounge.com

SANTEE FARMERS’ MARKET

Weds 3-6:30pm winter, 3-7 summer. Pathway Center, corner of Carlton Hills Blvd and Mast Blvd. WIC, EBT & CCs • 619-4498427 • santeefarmersmarket.com

FLYING PIG PUB & KITCHEN

Rustic American cuisine made with quality, local ingredients. 626 S. Tremont St., Oceanside, 92054 • 760-453-2940 • flyingpigpubkitchen.com

SPECIALTY PRODUCE

Wholesale and retail. Farmers’ Market Bag & Box options. 1929 Hancock St. #150, San Diego • 619-295-3172 • specialtyproduce.com

GIRARD GOURMET

TRY W OUR NE et®

e Seed Sw V�� be-Runa.com 619-929-8075

262 E. Grand Ave, Escondido escondidofarmersmarket@yahoo.com

Deli, bakery, restaurant & caterer for 25 years. Tasty and healthy menu items created with fresh and seasonal ingredients. 7837 Girard Ave., La Jolla, CA 92037 • 858-454-3325 • girardgourmet.com

STATE ST. FARMERS’ MARKET IN CARLSBAD VILLAGE

Wed 3-6pm fall/winter, 3-7pm spring/summer. • ronlachance@gsws.com • 858-272-7054 • statestreetmarket.com

HARNEY SUSHI

SUNDAY FARMERS’ MARKET AT THE VALLEY FORT

Delicious sushi made with sustainably harvested seafood. 3964 Harney St., San Diego • 619-295-3272, and 301 Mission Ave., Oceanside • 760-967-1820 • harneysushi.com

Sunday 10am to 3pm at the Valley Fort, 3757 S. Mission Rd., Fallbrook. • vffarmfresh@gmail.com • 760-390-9726 • thevalleyfort.com

LOCAL HABIT

SUZIE’S FARM

Farm-fresh organic food and craft beer, wine and cocktails! New menu is more Creole inspired. 3827 5th Ave., San Diego • 619-795-4770 • mylocalhabit.com

Organic farm grows, sells and delivers certified organic produce. Farm stand open Tues, 3-7 & Sat, 10-2. 619-662-1780 • suziesfarm.com • 800-995-7776 • sungrownorganics.com

MITCH’S SEAFOOD

WILD WILLOW FARM & EDUCATION CENTER

Locally caught seafood with a view of the bay and the San Diego sportfishing fleet. 1403 Scott St., San Diego • 619-2228787 • mitchsseafood.com

Learn about sustainable farming, permaculture and how to live sustainably. Blog; theartofagriculture.org • wildwillowfarm@ sandiegoroots.org • sandiegoroots.org/farm

Tuesday 2:30 - 6 Operated by the Escondido Arts Partnership

YOUR FIRST STOP ON

RAMONA'S WINE

TRAIL Local, Seasonal, Organic Fare

SPECIALTY CHEESES GOURMET SALADS AND SANDWICHES

RAMONA FAMILY NATURALS 642 MAIN STREET RAMONA, CA 92065 PICNIC BOXES FOR YOUR 760-787-5987 WINE TASTING ADVENTURE

Serving you at the following farmers’ markets: Leucadia, Carlsbad State Street and Stone Brewing Company Store Oceanside (Friday 4–8) Catering • HolistiC HealtH CoaCHing

858-210-5094 • anneldrewskitchen.com march-april 2015

edible San Diego

{Local Marketplace}

PANAMA 66

Five locations throughout San Diego to serve your indoor & outdoor gardening needs, Pacific Beach, Lakeside, San Marcos, Carlsbad and Chula Vista. sdhydroponics.com

RITUAL KITCHEN & BEER GARDEN

Heirloom vegetable, herb and companion flowers. Sold at City Farmers Nursery, In Harmony Herbs, Mighty Hydroponics, Mission Hills Nursery, Progress – South Park, Ramona Hydroponics, San Diego Hydroponics, Summers Past Farms and Walter Andersen Nursery. • sandiegoseedcompany.com

Locally grown organic vegetables and sustainably raised meats. Great wine and craft beer menu. 4095 30th St., San Diego • 619-283-1720 • ritualtavern.com

STARLITE

Dinner. Cocktails. Late night dining. Cuisine that uses year-round local produce. Sunday brunch. Great cocktails. 21 and up. 3175 India St., San Diego • 619-358-9766 • starlitesandiego.com

THE RED DOOR RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR

Displays showcase water conservation through a series of beautiful themed gardens. Free admission for both guided and self-guided tours. Open daily, 9am-4pm, 12122 Cuyamaca College Dr. West, El Cajon, CA 92019 • 619- 660-0614 • thegarden.org

l di

Bui

An intimate supper club in San Diego’s historic Mission Hills. Live music Wed & Thurs, 7-9pm. 729 W. Washington St., San Diego • 619-295-6001• thewellingtonsd.com

im e

Join our CSA!

THE WELLINGTON STEAK AND MARTINI LOUNGE

We plant organic seeds Install and maintain backyard gardens Harvest and deliver produce to your door

TRUE FOOD KITCHEN

Brunch, lunch, dinner, dessert and kids menu. Fashion Valley Mall, 7007 Friars Rd., Suite 394 • 619-810-2929 • foxrc.com/ restaurants/true-food-kitchen

GARDEN RESOURCES

A true European style market

Del Rayo Village Center 16079 San Dieguito Rd. Rancho Santa Fe • 619-743-4263 Sundays, 9:30am –2:00pm ranchosantafefarmersmarket.com 38

edible San Diego

march-april 2015

WATER CONSERVATION GARDEN

GROCERY JIMBO’S… NATURALLY

A local, family owned grocery known for organic and natural foods at reasonable prices. Horton Plaza, Downtown SD. • 4S Ranch • Escondido • Carlsbad • Carmel Valley • jimbos.com

RAMONA FAMILY NATURALS

Natural food market with local, organic produce, raw milk, grass-fed meats, vitamins, supplements, specialty foods and more. Open Monday-Friday, 8-8, Saturday, 8-6 and Sunday, 10-6. 642 Main St. Ramona • 760-787-5987 • ramonafamilynaturals.com

GREEN THUMB SUPER GARDEN CENTER

HEALTH & BEAUTY

SAN DIEGO BOTANIC GARDEN

Restorative acupuncture, holistic massage therapy, individualized fitness, prevention-based health education, clinical psychology and wellness products. 4080 Centre St., Suite 202, San Diego • 619-795-4422 • thrivewellness.com

Organic and natural products for your edible garden, as well as trees, shrubs, flowers, succulents. Home canning supplies. 1019 San Marcos Blvd. off the 79 fwy near Via Vera Cruz • 760- 744-3822 • supergarden.com

goodneighborgardens.com 858-375-6121

URBAN PLANTATIONS

TENDER GREENS

A casually elegant neighborhood hangout serving classic American comfort food. 741 W. Washington St., San Diego • 619-295-6000 • thereddoorsd.com

SAN DIEGO SEED COMPANY

Design, installation and maintenance of edible landscapes for home owners, restaurants and corporate settings. Complete orchard care. karen@UrbanPlantations.com • -619-563-5771 • urbanplantations.com

Local organic produce and humanely raised meats, fish, charcuterie. Locations: 2400 Historic Decatur Rd. • 619-226-6254; 4545 La Jolla Village Dr. at UTC • 858-455-9395; and 120 W. Broadway, Downtown San Diego • 619-795-2353 • tendergreensfood.com

farm, one garde n city

SAN DIEGO HYDROPONICS AND ORGANICS

In the Sculpture Court at the San Diego Museum of Art in Balboa Park. Beer, wine and cocktails, salads, hot and cold sandwiches, house-made meats, with vegan options. Open Mon – Sun, 11 to 3. panama66.com

Four miles of garden trails on 37 acres, flowering trees, majestic palms and the nation’s largest bamboo collection. See events, p. 35. 230 Quail Gardens Dr., Encinitas • 760-436-3036 • sdbgarden.org

THRIVE WELLNESS

UBUNTU HAIR STUDIO

An eco-friendly and socially conscious salon. Hours: Mon-Sat 10am - 6pm. 109 S Acacia Ave., Solana Beach • 858-792-5959 • ubuntuhairstudio.com

{Local Marketplace}

Slow Food Urban San Diego and Temecula Valley Slow Food. • slowfoodsandiego.net • slowfoodurbansandiego.org • temeculavalleyslowfood.org

HOME & GARDEN LIVING ALPINE GARDEN & GIFTS

Plants, soil amendments & unique items from local artists & crafters. Open Tuesday-Saturday, 9-5, and Sunday, 10-4. 2442 Alpine Blvd. (next to Janet’s) • 619-452-3535

PET CARE DEXTER’S DELI

SIMPLY LOCAL

Natural diet and supplements for dogs and cats, including fresh raw foods and selected natural dry and canned foods. Two locations, 2508 El Camino Real, Carlsbad, 760-720-7507; and 1229 Camino Del Mar, Del Mar, 858-792-3707 • dextersdeli.com

High quality, unique and handcrafted items from over 40 local businesses, most made in San Diego County. In The Headquarters Shopping Center, 789 West Harbor Dr., 619756-7958 • North Park, 3013 University, 619-338-0001 • SimplyLocalSanDiego.com

REAL ESTATE MARC CORRELL, KELLER WILLIAMS REALTY

MEAT

If you’re looking to buy or sell a sustainable home, contact agent Marc Correll, CalBRE No. 01944251. 13400 Sabre Springs Parkway, Suite 100, San Diego, 92128. • 760-644-5254 • marccorrell.com

COOK PIGS RANCH

A boutique ranch operation in Julian focusing on heritage pig breeds living in large, outdoor pens. State-of-the-art cut and wrap facility at 8280 Clairemont Mesa Blvd. Ste. 117. • cookpigs.com • cookpigs@gmail.com

STANDARD PACIFIC HOMES SD

These new-home neighborhoods offer the best in San Diego living. Homes with functional floorplans, a rich architectural mix and idyllic locations. 949-789-1600; • marketing@stanpac. com • standardpacifichomes.com

DA-LE RANCH

Sustainably raised, farm-fresh, USDA-inspected meats by the cut and CSA. Beef, pork and lamb sides. Free range eggs. Available at SD, Riverside and Orange County farmers’ markets, or at farm by appointment. Farm tours/internships available. • da-le-ranch.com • dave@da-le-ranch.com

URBAN DWELLINGS REAL ESTATE

Weddings, Receptions and Engagement Parties at Peltzer Farm

For reservations and more information on our hosted weddings and our full service bridal suite please contact us at 951.695.1115 or email carriepeltzer@cs.com

Dominick Fiume, real estate broker, provides exceptional customer service with specialized knowledge of urban San Diego. CalBRE No. 01017892. 909 W. University Ave. San Diego, 92103. • 619-543-9500

THE MEATMEN

Artisan dry sausages at Ocean Beach (Wed), La Mesa (Fri), Little Italy and Poway (Sat), Hillcrest and Leucadia (Sun) and both Oceanside farmers’ markets (Thur), and at brick & mortar stores. • 619-708-9849 • meatmenstore.com

RESTAURANT SUPPLIES SPECIALTY PRODUCE

Freshly picked, organic and sustainably sourced produce from over a dozen farms each week. Wholesale and retail. Farmers’ Market Bag & Box options. 1929 Hancock St. #150, San Diego • 619-295-3172 • specialtyproduce.co

ORGANIZATIONS SAN DIEGO CHILDREN’S DISCOVERY MUSEUM

Inspiring children to learn about our world through exploration, imagination and experimentation. Workshops, Discovery Camp, birthday parties. 760-233-7755 • sdcdm.org

SUN GROWN

Micro-greens, micro-herbs, sprouts, micro-mixes, edible blossoms and specialty greens and shoots. Also available through Suzie’s Farm. Call to order : 800-995-7776 • fax 619662-1779 • sungrownorganics.com

SAN DIEGO COUNTY FARM BUREAU

Leading advocate for the farm community. SDCFB sponsors four farmers’ markets: College Ave., Wed, 2-6; Linda Vista, Thur, 2-7; City Heights, Sat, 9-1; and San Marcos, Sun, 10-2. • 760-7453023 • sdfarmsbureau.org

SCHOOLS BASTYR UNIVERSITY

SLOW FOOD

California’s only fully accredited naturopathic medical school offers Doctor of Naturopathic Medicine (ND) program and Masters

Join the growing international movement to reclaim and preserve good food and food traditions. Slow Food San Diego,

Gelato, Coffee & Panini

2015 Spring GalA Saturday, May 2 • 5-9PM 320 North Broadway, Escondido, CA 92025 Proceeds benefit San Diego Children’s Museum Educational Programs

Downtown Escondido escogelato.com - 760.745.6500 march-april 2015

edible San Diego

{Local Marketplace}

and helps restore balance to the environment. 346 Oak St., Ramona • 760-445-2023 • BarnOwlBoxes.com

Dominick Fiume Real Estate Broker 330 A Street, Ste 4

BE RUNA SEED SALT & SEED SWEET

A handcrafted blend of nine different organic seeds, superfoods, mineral salts and spices available at Little Italy Mercato (Sat), Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo (Sun) and Hillcrest and Leucadia (alternating Sun) farmers’ markets. Contact: tamara@be-runa.com • be-runa.com/product/seed-salt/

BUFFALO EXCHANGE

San Diego, Ca 92101

Buy, sell, trade new and recycled clothing. Two San Diego locations: 1079 Garnet Ave., Pacific Beach, CA 92109 • 858273-6227 • 3862 5th Ave. Hillcrest, 92103 • 619-298-4411 • buffaloexchange.com

619-543-9500

CURDS AND WINE

CalBRE No. 01017892

Home winemaking and cheesemaking supplies and classes at the shop. Large selection of wine kits. 7194 Clairemont Mesa Blvd., San Diego •858-384-6566 • curdsandwine.com

CUT LOOSE SOLANA BEACH

Known for their fabrics, colors and flattering fit, casual clothing that’s sewn and dyed to order in San Francisco. 142 S. Cedros Ave., Solana Beach, CA 92075 • 858-509-0386 • cutloose.com

ESCOGELATO

Luscious, super creamy gelato full of intense flavor and made fresh daily with local ingredients. 122 South Kalmia, Escondido, 92025 • 760-745-6500 • escogelato.com program in nutrition and wellness. 4106 Sorrento Valley Blvd., San Diego, CA 92121 • 858-246-9700 • www.bastyr.edu/california

SEAFOOD CATALINA OFFSHORE PRODUCTS

Bustling wholesale and retail seafood market in a working warehouse with fresh sustainably harvested sushi grade and other fish and shellfish, much of it from local waters. Fri. and Sat cooking demos. M-F, 8-3; Sat, 8-2. 5202 Lovelock St., San Diego • 619-297-9797 • catalinaop.com

GREAT NEWS! COOKWARE & COOKING SCHOOL

Knowledgeable staff, large selection of cookware, culinary skills classes through their onsite cooking school. 1788 Garnet Ave., San Diego • 858-270-1582 • great-news.com

OWL ENTERPRISES WINERY TREK

A cool phone app to help you to locate and select wineries to visit and create a detailed tasting itinerary with directions. owl@ winerytrek.com • 858-442-5319 • winerytrekapp.com

RAMONA RANCH WINERY

Handcrafted wines made from their own grapes and grapes from Ramona AVA. Open noon to sunset on Sat and most Sundays. Please call to confirm. 23578 Hwy 78, Ramona, CA 92065 • 760-789-1622 • ramonaranch.net

SHADOW MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS & WINERY

SAVORY SPICE SHOP

A family business dedicated to producing San Diego’s finest wine grapes and premier estate wines. The wines embody the unique qualities of our region. • 760-749-1200 • triplebranches.com

Installing owl nest boxes in and around your farm, vineyard, garden or homestead is an extremely effective form of pest control

Celebrating Sustainable Food Building Healthy Communities Promoting Food Justice GOOD, CLEAN & FAIR! Slow Food is committed to preserving food traditions and reviving the table as a center of family and community.

Join Slow Food and make a real difference. Slow Food San Diego • slowfoodsandiego.net Slow Food Temecula Valley • temeculavalleyslowfood.org Slow Food Urban San Diego • slowfoodurbansandiego.org march-april 2015

HIGHLAND HILLS WINERY

Beautiful family owned and operated boutique winery. Tasting room now open! Hours: Sat & Sun 11am - 5pm. 18545 Rangeland Rd., Ramona • 760-239-6515 • highlandhillswinery.com

LIVING TEA BREWING COMPANY

BARN OWL BOXES

edible San Diego

EDWARDS VINEYARD & CELLARS

Estate-grown Syrah, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and blends showcase the quality of the RVAVA. 26502 Hwy 78, Ramona • 760-788-6800• edwardswinery.com

Stehleon wines blend four generations of agricultural heritage with local product and talent. Tasting room open Fri–Sun. • 760-7411246 • StehleonVineyards.com

400 fresh ground herbs and spices, 140 hand-blended seasonings, organic selections, extracts and gift sets. 937 S. Coast Hwy 101, C-110. encinitas@savoryspiceshop.com • 760-230-4801 • savoryspiceshop.com/california/encinitas-the-lumberyard.html

CHUPAROSA VINEYARDS

100% estate grown Zinfandel,Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Tasting room open Sat & Sun 11-5pm. 910 Gem Lane, Ramona, 92065 • 760-788-0059 • chuparosavineyards.com

KH METALWORK

Handmade artisan designer jewelry created using traditional goldsmith tools. Custom orders welcome. • khmetalwork.com • instagram.com/khmetalwork • khmetalwork.etsy.com

BABA FOODS

Authentic Mediterranean dips and sauces made from the freshest ingredients high in nutritional value, sold at farmers’ markets and brick & mortar stores all over Southern California. 8765 Dead Stick Rd. San Diego 92154 • 619-426-6946 • babafoods.com

WINE & SPIRITS

Specializing in Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat Cannelli, and sparkling grand cuvee. Tasting cellar open Wed. thru Sun, 10am-5pm, and most holidays. 34680 Hwy 79, Warner Springs, CA 92086. • 760-782-0778 • shadowmountainvineyards.com

100% raw and organic with 9-12 unique kombucha flavors on tap by the glass, growler or your own container! 302 Wisconsin St., Oceanside, 92054 • 760-696 -2376 • livingteabrewingcom.com

SPECIALTY RETAILERS

SAN DIEGO SOLAR OVENS

Solar cooking is a new culinary cooking skill that is fire-safe, efficient and economical. sdsolarovens@gmail.com • 760-995-5670 • sandiegosolarovens.com

STEHLEON VINEYARDS

TRIPLE B RANCHES

VESPER VINEYARDS

Vesper Vineyards aims to expose wine drinkers to San Diego’s diverse microclimates. Tasting room & winery open Fri-Sun. 298 Enterprise St., Suite D, Escondido • 760-749-1300 • vespervineyards.com

FARMERS’ MARKETS MONDAY Escondido—Welk Resort # 8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. 3 – 7 pm, year round 760-651-3630

Seeds @ City Urban Farm

16th & C Sts., San Diego City College 10:30 – 12:30 am (Sept to June) cityfarm@sdccd.edu

TUESDAY Clairemont

Reopens spring 2015 4271 Clairemont Mesa Blvd. 3 – 7 pm 619-795-3363

Coronado

1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing 2:30 – 6 pm 760-741-3763

Escondido *

Grand Ave. btw Juniper & Kalmia 2:30 – 6 pm year round 760-480-4101

Mira Mesa *

10510 Reagan Rd. 2:30 – 7 pm (3 – 6 pm fallwinter ) 858-272-7054

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista

2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd. 4 – 8 pm (4 – 7 pm winter) 619-279-0032

Pacific Beach Tuesday # Bayard & Garnet 2 – 7 pm 619-233-3901

UCSD/La Jolla

UCSD Campus, Town Square 10 am –2 pm (Sept to June) 858-534-4248

Santee *#

Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd. 3 – 7 pm (winter 3 – 6:30) 619-449-8427

State Street in Carlsbad Village

State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 3 – 7 pm (3 – 6 fall-winter) 858-272-7054

Temecula*

40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s 9 am – 1 pm 760-728-7343

THURSDAY Carmel Valley

5951 Village Center Loop Rd. 2:30 – 7 pm 858-945-5560

Chula Vista

Center St. off Third Ave. 3 – 7 pm (3 – 6 pm fall-winter) 619-422-1982

El Cajon #

Prescott Promenade on East Main Btw Magnolia & Claydelle Aves. 3 – 7 pm, year round 619-641-7510 x-277

Horton Square San Diego

225 Broadway & Broadway Circle 11 am – 3 pm, March thru October 760-741-3763

Linda Vista *#

6900 Linda Vista Rd. 2 – 7 pm (2–6 winter hours) 760-580-0116

North Park #

3151 University & 32nd St. 3 – 7 pm year round 619-233-3901

Oceanside Market & Faire *

FRIDAY Borrego Springs

Christmas Circle Comm. Park 7 am – noon (October–May) 760-767-5555

Fallbrook Village Assn. 102 S. Main, at Alvarado 11 am – 3 pm 760-723-8384

Imperial Beach *#

Seacoast Dr. at Pier Plaza Oct-Mar, 12 – 7 pm; Apr-Sep, 12 – 7:30 pm info@ imperialbeachfarmersmarket.org

Kearny Mesa

North Island Credit Union pkg lot 5898 Copley 10:30 am – 1:30 pm 858-272-7054

La Mesa Village *

Corner of Spring St. & University 2 – 6 pm 619-440-5027

Rancho Bernardo Winery

13330 Paseo del Verano Norte 9 am – 1 pm 760-500-1709

SATURDAY Alpine Reopens spring 2015 1850 Alpine Blvd. 10:30 am – 2:30 pm 619-993-3745

City Heights *!#

On Wightman St. btw Fairmount & 43rd St. 9 am – 1 pm 760-580-0116

Del Mar

WEDNESDAY

Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101 9 am –1 pm 619-249-9395

1050 Camino Del Mar 1 – 4 pm 858-465-0013 ananieto1230@gmail.com

College *#

Oceanside Sunset

Escondido Saturday

4747 College Avenue 2 – 6 pm 760-580-0116

Tremont & Pier View Way 5 – 9 pm 760-754-4512 x-103

Encinitas Station

SDSU

Corner of E St. & Vulcan 5 – 8 pm, May-Sept 4 – 7 pm, Oct-Apr 760-651-3630

Campanile Walkway btw Hepner Hall & Love Library 10 am – 3 pm (Sept to June) www.clube3.org

Ocean Beach

Warner Springs

4900 block of Newport Ave. 4 – 7 pm (summer 4–8 pm) 619-279-0032

30951 Hwy 79 Warner Springs 3 pm – 6 pm (Sept – June) 760-782-3517

110 Kalmia St. 9 am – 1 pm 619-838-8020

Golden Hill #

B St. btw 27th & 28th Sts. 9:30 am – 1:30 pm 619-795-3363

Lemon Grove *#

Opens 2/15! Broadway & Lemon Grove Ave 8 am – 1 pm 619-289-5535

Little Italy Mercato #

Leucadia *

Pacific Beach

Murrieta *

W. Cedar St. (Kettner to Front St.) 8 am – 2 pm 619-233-3901 4150 Mission Blvd. 8 am – noon 760-741-3763

People’s Produce *#

Southeast San Diego 4700 Castana St. (north of 47th & Imperial) 3 – 6 pm 619-262-2022

185 Union St. & Vulcan St. 10 am – 2 pm 858-272-7054 Village Walk Plaza I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks/ Kalmia 9 am – 1 pm 760-728-7343

North San Diego #

12655 Sunset Dr. Escondido 10:30 am – 3:30 pm year round 858-735-5311

Poway *

Point Loma #

Ramona *

Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village

Rancho San Diego

San Marcos *#

Old Poway Park 14134 Midland Rd. at Temple 8 am – 1 pm 619-249-9395 1855 Main St. (K-Mart pkg lot) 9 am–1 pm 760-788-1924 Reopens spring 2015 900 Rancho San Diego Pkwy. 9 am – 2 pm 619-977-2011

Rincon’s Outdoor Market

FIRST Saturday of each month 34323 Valley Center Rd. 9 am – 1 pm

Scripps Ranch

10380 Spring Canyon Rd. & Scripps Poway Parkway 9 am – 1 pm 858-586-7933

Temecula *

Sixth & Front St. Old Town 8 am – 12:30 pm 760-728-7343

Vista *#

325 Melrose Dr. South of Hwy 78 8 am – 1 pm 760-945-7425

SUNDAY Gaslamp San Diego 400 block of Third Ave. 9 am – 1 pm 619-279-0032

Hillcrest

3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts. 9 am – 2 pm 619-237-1632

Corner of Cañon & Rosecrans 9:30 am – 2:30 pm 619-795-3363

16079 San Dieguito Rd. 9:30 am – 2 pm 619-743-4263

San Marcos Blvd. & Via Vera Cruz 11 am – 3 pm 760-580-0116

Solana Beach

410 to 444 South Cedros Ave. 1 – 5 pm 858-755-0444

Valley Fort Sunday

3757 South Mission Rd., Fallbrook 10 am – 3 pm 760-728-3205 * Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks) # Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer) ! Currently only City Heights accepts WIC Farmers’ Market Checks and the WIC Fruit and Vegetable Checks. All San Diego County markets listed except Barona, Rincon, SDSU and Seeds @ City are certified by the County Agricultural Commissioner. Visit ediblesandiego.com and click on “Resources” for more complete information and links to farmers’ market websites.

La Jolla Open Aire Girard Ave. & Genter 9 am – 1 pm 858-454-1699

march-april 2015

edible San Diego

Experience the Art of Fine Dining with breathtaking views of Torrey Pines Golf Course LodgeTorreyPines.com | 877.512.6083 11480 North Torrey Pines Road | La Jolla, California 92037