TWO CENTS 4
COVERING OUR COVER: 5 A SEA OF WATERCOLORS
MEET OUR GUEST EDITOR 5
LIVING LOCAL: 6 HOT DISH, EAT LESS WATER, AND GROWING WATERMELONS
LOCAL TALENT: 10 SALTY AIR AND SAVORY SEAFOOD WITH MITCHELL CONNIFF
WATERWISE GARDENING: 14 GROWING ARTICHOKES
SAN DIEGO’S SEAFOOD CHALLENGE: 16 PART TWO
WHAT’S IN A CAN? 19
THE WATER ON SAN DIEGO’S TABLE 22
DAY TRIPPER: 24 CORONADO
INNOVATING FOR GOOD: 28 MEALS, GARDENS, AND CORNER STORES
Most of you are residents of San Diego County. Some of you are advertisers or business owners. Others are farmers, food industry folks, or visitors to the region. We have each of you very much in mind at every stage of what we do here at Edible San Diego.
For me, it’s like Christmas when each new issue comes out, and it warms my heart when readers frequently express similar excitement. We’ll keep growing so we can share more of the information you care about. It’s not just about quantity, though. At a time when our personal data has become a crazy-profitable commodity, at Edible San Diego we greatly value the trust you place in us.
Have you been noticing changes at Edible San Diego? We are evolving quickly and with a creative spirit. Why? So we can cultivate the best mix of relevant and inspiring content for you, in print and online. We are seeking out new community partnerships, including with expert guest editors (thanks, Sarah), so stay tuned for more on that. Give us your two cents, too! This is a conversation, and we’re open-minded.
About our brand. In a world that seems to spin faster and faster, we’re here to accomplish two things. The first is to quickly provide you with information you need and want. The second is to create an occasion slow down for just a little while and quietly dip into a calmer, thoughtful space where big ideas, nifty tips, and heartwarming stories come together. We do not seek to be glitzy or trendy. The kind of fun we offer comes from a gut feeling of goodness. You know what I mean—that taste of caramel on your tongue from a local smoked porter (my personal fave), the tingle on your skin of beauty products handmade with botanicals, meeting your friends’ eyes around a table of good food, or the feeling of peace that comes when strolling on the beach, a hilly trail, or a local farm.
Lastly, this year our editorial themes consciously convey essential elements of our brand— living local, sustainability, water, plus three more completely original issues to come in our 10th Anniversary trip around the sun. Meanwhile, water is life, so let’s join these insightful writers as they share their discoveries about our precious “land and sea” water resources here in San Diego County.
So, for information on the fly, we’ll see you online. For now, welcome to our latest “craft,” “artisanal” magazine—a shared time of contemplation that feeds our souls and powers the actions each of us take every day. At Edible San Diego we put a whole lotta love into these pages because we care about each of you and about this beautiful, imperfect, promising region we call home.
StokesPublisher, Edible San Diego
edible Communities
2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year
The vibrant watercolor illustrations swimming across our cover were painted by Ubaldo Riboni for the San Diego Food System Alliance’s FishTales pilot campaign. Riboni has so far contributed 22 rendered paintings of San Diego-caught fish species to support the campaign that seeks to educate seafood consumers and connect them with local fishermen. The images promote the diversity of species available from our coastal waters.
FishTales provides information and resources about the social, economic, health, and environmental benefits of local seafood. The intention is to promote San Diego’s fishermen and establish San Diego as a seafood dining destination.
the region, like Save the Food San Diego, Faces of the Farm Bill, and Carbon Farming. Check out their website to learn more and find out how you can contribute to developing and maintaining “an equitable, healthy, and sustainable food system for the benefit of all people in San Diego County.”
sdfsa.org
CONTRIBUTORS
Rob Andrews
Amy Finley
Maria Hesse
Rachel Hommel
Annelise Jolley
Brittany Collins Kaufman
Elaine Masters
Vincent Rossi
Sarah Shoffler
Nan Sterman Katie Stokes
PUBLISHER
Katie Stokes
EDITORS
Katie Stokes Executive Editor
Maria Hesse Managing Editor
Felicia Campbell Digital Editor
Dawn Mobley Copy Editor
DESIGNER
Riley Davenport
STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS
Debbie Cole
MARKETING
Cass Husted
SALES REP John Vawter
CONTACT
Edible San Diego P.O. Box 83549 San Diego, CA 92138 619-756-7292 info@ediblesandiego. com ediblesandiego.com
ADVERTISING
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No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. © 2018 All rights reserved. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If an error comes to your attention, please let us know and accept our sincere apologies. Thank you.
Food and drink can be the portals to community and connection. Everyone eats, most everyone can cook something, and lots of people have a story behind their favorite dish—whether it was grandma’s recipe or a favorite discovered while traveling. When we sit down together to break bread and attempt to understand where our meals come from— how the ingredients were grown, harvested, and cooked—we connect to each other. We also connect to the land, water, air, and animals in this world.
As a fishery biologist for National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) Fisheries, the federal agency that monitors and manages our fisheries and the living things in the oceans, I am passionate about the science behind sustainable seafood.
Much of my work is explaining that science and working on the cusp of science and management, both domestically and internationally. I am lucky to work with talented researchers who are committed to our mission of conserving and sustaining our ocean resources.
San Diego has an abundance of responsible fishermen, talented chefs who know where their seafood comes from, and inquisitive fish mongers, plus scientists who provide the information needed for fisheries management. We have a delicious variety of local seafood species off our coast, as well as connected and conscious eaters.
With these elements, I firmly believe we have everything we need to be known as a sustainable seafood destination.
Sarah received her B.S. in biology and environmental science from Albright College in Reading, PA, and her master’s degree in environmental management from Duke University in Durham, North Carolina. She teaches a sustainable seafood course that examines the science, management, and public perception behind it, and serves on the board of Slow Food Urban San Diego.
Delicious dishes you can only find in San Diego
Chef/Owner: Juan Carlos Récamier
Dish: La Paz Ceviche
Details: Bigeye tuna marinated in a ginger-habanero sauce, with cucumber and orange zest.
Why it’s good: Ceviche House is the first restaurant certified by the San Diego Food System Alliance’s FishTales pilot campaign that verifies businesses committed to sourcing local seafood. The bigeye tuna in the La Paz ceviche is harvested by San Diego fishermen, and the freshness is evident in the flavor. This is the spiciest ceviche on the menu, with a tangy kick. Récamier says “the ginger, lime, and habanero balance out very nicely and although it might seem like a sweet flavor profile, it has a very nice savory finish.” cevichehousesd.com
Restaurant: Trust
Dish: Charcuterie & Cheese—chef’s selection with seasonal accoutrements
Details: House-cured duck ham, coppa, Spanish chorizo, mortadella, curried saison sec, pork truffle rillettes, and pork butter with caviar. Wedges of Danish blue and SeaHive cheddar cheeses. Other accoutrements include “everything” lavash, nduja toast, and a Scotch egg, along with house-pickled beets, cucumbers, and cauliflower, caramelized onion and apple jam, mostarda, and mustard seeds (subject to change).
Why it’s good: Did you read that list? Yes the meats are housecured, the veg is house-pickled, and yes, give us all the caramelized onion apple jam with a nibble of SeaHive and that nduja toast, please! Like everything on the menu at Trust, the flavors on the board are diverse and compelling, pairing well with familiar classics like “everything” seasoning on crispy lavash. Trust that this meat and cheese board is one for the ages.
trustrestaurantsd.com
The UN warns that half the world’s population will experience freshwater shortages by 2030. Nationwide, water tables are dropping faster than can naturally be replenished through rainwater and seepage.
It might not seem like there’s much we can do about this, but Florencia Ramirez disagrees. In her book Eat Less Water (Red Hen Press, 2017), Ramirez points to food’s “virtual water footprint”: the total amount of water needed to produce what we eat. One slice of bread, made of conventional
wheat grown and harvested, represents 11 gallons of water. One pound of conventional corn takes 146 gallons of water to make it to the market. And a single pound of conventional beef requires a dizzying 1,851 gallons of water.
Ramirez says that by being more mindful of what we eat and how it was grown or raised, we can significantly cut down on virtual water consumption. In Eat Less Water, she embarks on an eye-opening journey with farmers and ranchers who are doing their part.
eatlesswater.com
May and June are prime planting months for a traditional summer favorite—watermelons.
Details: Watermelons are part of the Cucurbitaceae family, which includes cucumbers and gourds. The sweet and hydrating flesh is 92% water, contains antiinflammatory properties, and is a powerhouse of nutrients. Evidence of cultivation of the viny plant dates all the way back to ancient Egypt.
Growing Tips: We called Brijette Peña, owner and regional heirloom seed farmer at the San Diego Seed Company, for watermelon growing recommendations.
Peña says that depending on your microclimate and watering methods, growing conditions for watermelon in San Diego’s Mediterranean climate can be ideal. The watermelon is more suitable for
inland growth, while growing in coastal regions can present a challenge because excess moisture and the May Gray and June Gloom makes the leaves of the plant susceptible to early powdery mildew.
Peña suggests that “if you’re growing melons, buy seeds that are regionally adapted or have some resistance to powdery mildew.”
The San Diego Seed Company offers seeds for two regionally adapted watermelon varieties: the Sugar Baby (small and sweet
with bright red flesh) and the Crimson Classic (huge, sweet, dense, and super juicy).
Watermelons like consistent water, but Peña’s best tip is “no overhead watering!” Watering close to the root zone of the plant prevents excess moisture on the leaves, which can lead to powdery mildew and prematurely end the life of the plant before it provides any fruit. She recommends a drip irrigation system, lots of compost, really good soil, and straw mulch to conserve moisture.
The advantage of growing your own watermelons is harvesting at peak ripeness, versus conventionally cultivated varieties that are picked before they can sweeten on the vine. Follow your seed packet recommendations for dates to harvest.
sandiegoseedcompany.com
By Rachel Hommel Photos by Rob Andrews
When the Point Loma harbor is at your front door, seafood doesn’t get much fresher and knowing your fishermen is an understatement. At local institution Mitch’s Seafood, the walls are lined with faded photographs of neighborhood fishermen young and old, painting a picture of hard work and a passion for seafood.
Outside on the patio, the salty crew ties up right in front of the restaurant. A stomping ground for those about to embark on a fishing excursion or a place welcoming them home— Mitch’s Seafood is community dining at its finest.
Mitchell Conniff spent seven years cooking up inspiration for his restaurant as a cook on the biggest sport fishing fleet in the world. It was a virtual playground of delicate yellowtail, sushi nights, and ample ceviche. Like his adventures at sea, the restaurant’s menu changes with the day’s freshest catch.
“There was nothing better than catching a fish in the middle of the ocean and serving dinner for friends,” says Conniff. “The model remains the same here.”
Check the restaurant’s chalkboard for old-time favorites like fisherman’s stew, and be open to surprises in the form of sheephead or monchong tostadas—all caught by San Diego fishermen. A jack-of-all-trades, Conniff still butchers the fish, oversees selection, and even fishes for lobster.
“San Diego has access to some of the most amazing seafood. It’s sought after throughout the world,” says Conniff. “Our customer base is built into our location; we are literally a fisherman’s first stop.”
Conniff’s commitment to sustainable seafood goes beyond taglines. Working with fishermen means the restaurant buys directly from friends and trusted sources, which means he knows not only how the fish is caught, but also the methods used to harvest. “We know how every piece of fish on the menu is sourced,” says Conniff. “I’ve spent years getting to know crews personally [because] I will always be a fisherman at heart.”
With 75% of business from San Diegans and fishermen, Conniff has gotten to know many diners by name, building a steady 10-year customer-base through word of mouth. At Mitch’s Seafood, you really can get to know your local purveyors—those that keep our oceans healthy and our fish tasty.
“We are seeing a lot of support for the community,” smiles Conniff. “San Diego, keep doing what you’re doing: Support local seafood and buy direct.” D
Inspired by culinary adventures, street food and world travel, Rachel lives by the motto “eat well, travel often.” She is the current communications chair for Slow Food Urban San Diego, and has a passion for good, clean, fair food. Follow the fearless gourmet at tastetrektravel.com.
Serves 4
4 corn tortillas (you can use store-bought tostada shells in a pinch, but homemade are preferred)
8 parcooked octopus tentacles (Parcook the octopus by braising it in the oven in a covered pan with some aromatic vegetables, white wine, herbs, and paprika. Cook it low and slow at 275° for 1 ½–2 hours depending on size. The octopus is done when it’s tender but not falling apart.)
2 cups cooked white beans, smashed or pulsed in a food processor until creamy but not completely smooth
Herb Salsa Verde (see recipe below)
Avocado slices, radish, and lime wedges, for garnish
Prepare the tostada shells by frying corn tortillas in shallow oil for a few minutes on each side, turning once so they are evenly crispy. You can also prepare them by toasting them on the grill or in the oven. They will have a slightly chewier texture that way, but are quite delicious.
Grill octopus on a preheated grill over very high heat until charred and crispy on the outside. Alternatively, similarly prepare the octopus in the broiler. The octopus is already cooked, so just try to char the outside and warm it through.
Warm the smashed white beans and spread half a cup evenly over each tostada shell.
Put two octopus tentacles on each shell, cutting the octopus in half if necessary.
Drizzle herb salsa verde over the octopus and top each tostada with avocado slices, radish, and a squeeze of lime.
2 cups loosely packed Italian parsley leaves
1 cup loosely packed basil leaves
1 tablespoon thinly sliced chives
½ cup loosely packed cilantro leaves
1 teaspoon orange zest
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1–2 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 anchovy fillet, finely minced, or small squeeze of anchovy paste (you can exclude this if you want, but it really adds an extra layer of flavor to the sauce)
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt to taste
Finely chop all of the herbs. It is important to use a very sharp knife to avoid bruising the herbs so they maintain their bright green color. Alternatively, chop all of the herbs together in a food processor.
Place herbs in a bowl and stir in the remaining ingredients, tasting before adding salt as the anchovy is quite salty.
Let the sauce sit at room temperature for about half an hour before using to let the flavors marry.
This salsa verde is an excellent addition to any grilled or roasted meat or vegetable, especially chicken and fish. The salsa will last several days in the refrigerator, but make sure to bring it to room temperature before using.
Serves 4
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 cup diced celery
1 cup diced leeks
1 cup diced onions
5 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups diced red potatoes
4 cups dry white wine
2 tablespoons Old Bay seasoning
2 bay leaves
2 28-ounce cans whole tomatoes, lightly crushed
Tabasco or other hot sauce to taste
12 clams
8 ounces fresh boneless fish* (really any fish will do, use whatever is fresh and available at the time), cut into 1-inch dice
12 mussels, cleaned and debearded
12 large prawns, peeled and deveined
8 ounces calamari bodies and tentacles (slice bodies into 1½-inch rings)
Chopped Italian parsley, lemon wedges, and crusty bread, for serving
Saute celery, leeks, onion, garlic, and potatoes in olive oil over medium-high heat until translucent, about 5 minutes.
Add white wine, Old Bay, and bay leaves; bring to boil and reduce heat to medium low, simmering until wine is reduced by about ⅓, 15–20 minutes.
Add tomatoes and simmer until vegetables are tender. Season with Tabasco to taste.
Add clams and fish and simmer gently for about 3 minutes.
Add mussels, prawns, and calamari; cover and gently simmer until mussels and clams are open. (The mussels and clams should open pretty quickly, so be careful not to overcook the fish, as you are just trying to lightly steam it at this point.)
Ladle stew into 4 bowls, making sure to distribute the seafood evenly.
Sprinkle with parsley and serve with lemon wedges and crusted bread.
*You can use any seafood that you like for this dish. Crab legs, lobster, octopus, or scallops are all excellent additions or substitutions.
Serves 4
Campechana is a Mexican-style seafood cocktail with a variety of mixed seafood— some cooked, some raw—in a spicy, zesty lime-spiked, tomato-based sauce.
½ cup ketchup
1 tablespoon horseradish (optional, and not very authentic, but it adds a nice kick)
½ cup Clamato juice (either homemade or store-bought)
⅓ cup lime juice
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
½ cup prepared pico de gallo (chopped tomatoes, red onion, cilantro, and jalapeño mixed together, seasoned with salt and a little lime juice, and allowed to stand for 20 minutes for flavors to meld)
Your favorite Mexican hot sauce to taste 1–1½ pounds of mixed seafood, chilled. You can choose from any of the following or add whatever looks good to you. The Mitch’s Seafood version uses crab, octopus, scallops, shrimp, and oysters.
• Cooked crab meat
• Raw scallops
• Shucked raw oysters
• Cooked shrimp
• Cooked octopus
• Shucked raw clams
• Cooked mussels
• Raw or cooked fin fish of almost any kind
• Cooked lobster meat
Tortilla chips and avocado, for serving
Combine the first seven ingredients in a bowl and mix well; refrigerate the sauce for at least half an hour so that it is chilled through.
Add all of the mixed seafood and mix gently so as not to break any of the fish apart. Spoon into four individual pint glasses, top with avocado, and serve with chips.
Interested in buying sustainable seafood in San Diego? Check out Mitch Conniff’s top choices.
Tuna Harbor Dockside Market
Saturday, 8am–1pm
879 West Harbor Dr. San Diego thdocksidemarket.com
Catalina Offshore Group
Monday–Tuesday, 8am–3pm
Wednesday–Sunday, 8am–5pm 5202 Lovelock St. San Diego catalinaop.com
Market Hours
Tuesday–Saturday, 10am–7pm
Sunday, 11am–3pm
1735 Hancock St. San Diego fishmongersmarkets.com Local
We San Diego gardeners have an amazingly wide selection of vegetables to grow. Most vegetables come from regions with far more rainfall than ours naturally offers. But some of our favorite garden edibles need very little coddling in San Diego’s dry, Mediterranean climate, including one of my favorites— the artichoke.
The artichoke (Cynara cardunculus) is a type of thistle that likely originated as a prickly wild cardoon in Sicily and North Africa. The Romans ate them cooked in butter or fried in oil. They also admired artichokes’ perceived medicinal benefits, like curing baldness and promoting the conception of male children.
Today’s supermarkets typically offer just one variety of artichoke, while farmers’ markets offer a few more. In Italy, I’ve seen 20 different varieties sold in street markets, each distinctive in size, shape, and flavor.
Artichokes are tri-purpose plants. We eat their meaty, leaflike bracts and the lovely, tender edible “heart” at the center of each bud. We grow them as large, beautiful perennials whose long, jagged, gray-green leaves emerge in a fountainy spray from the base. And, artichoke buds left on the plant open to a stunning “flower” of fringy, rosepurple stamens.
Plant artichokes from seed in fall, from bare root in January and February, or from a four-inch pot or one-gallon nursery can the rest of the year. Plant in full sun in soil that drains well and has a high organic content. Artichokes need mulch but no fertilizer.
A single artichoke grows about four feet across. Over time, the roots form side shoots, so one plant can eventually fill a space eight feet across.
Water artichoke plants generously from the time the rains end in spring through the end of bud harvest.
Early spring brings the start of artichoke buds. For “baby” chokes, harvest the buds at Ping-Pong ball size. Let the buds develop longer for larger chokes but be sure to harvest while the buds are still tight. The more buds you cut, the more buds the plant makes until it reaches the end of the season. At that point, bracts get tough, then open to reveal the flower within.
After harvest, reduce irrigation and allow the leaves to die back. The roots will stay dormant through summer’s heat. In the cool of fall, new leaves sprout from the base and the cycle starts again.
Look for artichoke varities like: Green Globe, Violetta, Grosso Romanesco, Imperial Star, Emerald, and others. D
Caution: Do not plant cardoons, the artichoke relative grown for its edible stem. This thistle is invasive in California, which means that it harms native habitats.
The Jerusalem artichoke is an entirely different plant. It is a perennial, tuberous sunflower grown for its starchy root.
Ants and the aphids they farm are inevitable when it comes to artichokes. Flush them away with a sharp spray of water. When you harvest artichoke buds, swish them vigorously in a basin of water mixed with a splash of white vinegar and squirt of dish soap. Between the soap, acid, and movement, dead aphids will float to the top so you can pour them off. If there are a few aphids left, just think of them as extra protein.
Garden expert, designer, and author Nan Sterman specializes in low water, sustainable, and edible landscapes. She hosts “A Growing Passion,” a TV show that explores how plants power the planet. The show’s sixth season is currently airing on KPBS television Thursday nights at 8:30pm and Saturday afternoons at 3:30. See past episodes online at AGrowingPassion.com. Her newest book is the just-released Hot Color, Dry Garden Nan also runs the popular Facebook group San Diego Gardener and leads international garden tours. For more information, visit plantsoup.com.
If you’ve ever scrutinized a seafood counter in a local grocery store, you may have noticed that most of the fish on display are not from anywhere near here. Why is it so hard to find local seafood in San Diego, a coastal city? It’s a perpetual conundrum worthy of a second article exploring this topic.
The US imports over 80% the seafood we consume. In 2016 this included 1.2 billion pounds of edible seafood from China (much of it farmed), 258 million pounds of shrimp from Indonesia, and 747 million pounds of salmon. In the same year, U.S. fishermen landed about 9.6 billion pounds of seafood (edible and industrial) in the 50 states, and we exported about 2.9 billion pounds of
edible seafood. Considering that Americans use (consume and use) about 21 billion pounds of seafood in 2016, the imbalance in how much we produce versus how much we eat and use is likely one reason so much of our seafood comes from somewhere else.
Why does the US import and export vast quantities of seafood? The first article on San Diego’s Seafood Challenge explained that rigorous domestic fishing regulations, lack of working fishermen, and a lucrative export industry all contribute to the quandary. Considering how businesses select seafood to buy and sell is another story, but the sourcing practices of a few local brick-and-mortar seafood markets that aim to provide responsibly sourced seafood exemplify the issues.
Catalina Offshore Products, a seafood processor that’s been in San Diego for 40 years and is known for its high-quality, sustainable selection, procures most of its seafood from “the pristine waters of Southern California and Baja California.”
“We primarily source our seafood directly from fishermen,” Dave Rudie, owner and founder of Catalina Offshore Products, tells me. “Around 45% of our products come from the US, including about 35% from San Diego fishermen.” Catalina purchases over 1 million pounds of seafood a year from San Diego fishermen, and relies on the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s seafood guide to make
sourcing decisions for much of their seafood, particularly seafood not caught by US fishermen. “If we need a species that is not found locally, we look for a reliable supplier from a well-managed fishery or farm.”
Whole Foods Market, an icon of healthful food, has different standards. John Kirkpatrick, associate seafood coordinator for the Whole Foods Market Southern Pacific Region told me in 2016 that “to promote responsible fishing, the wild-caught seafood we offer is certified sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) or rated either ‘green’ or ‘yellow’ by Monterey Bay Aquarium and The Safina Center.” As a result, about 50% of the seafood in Whole Foods’ San Diego markets comes from US
fisheries and 5–10% comes from San Diego waters, depending on the season.
This might make you wonder if seafood caught by local fishermen is sustainable if it’s not meeting Whole Foods’ standards.
Kirkpatrick noted that there can be logistical issues with sourcing from local waters. In addition—and this is where it gets interesting—“many smaller fisheries do not want to go through the auditing process that has some costs associated with it.” Like farmers, fishermen’s profit margins are tight and the pay-to-play audits can cost more than they can afford on top of permits, gear, vessels, gas, berthing, and other fishing costs. In some cases, fishermen just aren’t willing to pay the fee
HOW TO FILL YOUR PLATE LOCALLY:
• When eating out or grocery shopping, ask for seafood caught by San Diego or US fishermen—because US fisheries are responsibly managed.
• Diversify what you eat and try new things. San Diego fishermen catch boatloads of underused species, such as opah, top snails, and rock crab.
• Support local businesses that support local fishermen when you can.
required to get the ratings Whole Foods requires in order to buy their catch.
Standards for sustainable seafood are as varied as the people creating and using them. For example, some guides may put swordfish on the “eat with caution” list, while others call it a “responsible choice.” I may care if a fish is overfished or not, you may be concerned about mercury levels or the fishery’s impact on an endangered sea turtle, for example. There’s no single set of standards that every consumer or rating system agrees with.
However, US fisheries are some of the most regulated in the world. If the fish population is depleted or if fishing unduly harms a protected population, like endangered sea turtles, fishermen are required to change their practices or stop fishing until the fish or turtle population has rebounded. US fisheries management meets the UN Food and Agriculture Organization’s standards for sustainability, making “US-caught” synonymous with “sustainable”—meaning that if a San Diego fisherman caught the seafood you’re eyeing at the fish counter, no other standard is needed. Buy, eat, enjoy. D
Sarah Shoffler is a fishery biologist, seafood enthusiast, foodie philosopher, and board member of Slow Food Urban San Diego. Most Saturdays you can find her eyeing the fish at Tuna Harbor Dockside Market or surfing La Jolla Shores. She recommends the science-based, user-friendly FishWatch.gov for learning about sustainable seafood.
In an era of anxiety about the foods we eat, whether a given choice is “good” or “right” based upon a complicated rubric of human and environmental costs, one food in particular makes even the most conscientious eaters among us break into a cold sweat—fish. I’ve known would-be pescatarians who’ve reverted to carnivore habits because they found the stress of the seafood counter to be too extreme.
When is “farmed” better than “wild”? Which fishing locations are OK fish? What does local mean in San Diego when we share a coastline with Mexico? And those are just the questions primarily reserved for fresh fish—which, let’s face it, is a budget luxury for many of us.
Canned fish is far more accessible for more eaters, which is why, according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), in 2015 Americans ate about 3.7 pounds of it per person. Properly stored and unopened, a can of fish has a shelf life lasting from three to eight years, making it a food bank mainstay. Generally speaking, canned fish is dramatically less expensive than fresh. And it retains the same health benefits: According to the United States Department of Agriculture’s National Nutrient Database, canned fish has roughly the same nutritional value as fresh fish.
These might all be reasons why, in the US today, canned tuna is the second most popular seafood of all, ranking just behind shrimp. We eat about 1 billion pounds of it
Considering smart, sustainable choices for one of America’s most popular foods.
By Amy Finleya year, according to the National Fisheries Institute. Most of that is consumed in the form of a sandwich (52%), at lunch (83%), and by people living in households with children (2:1). There are only two foods getting more shelf space in the American grocery store than tuna: coffee and sugar.
In recent years, canned tuna consumption has actually declined somewhat in the US, a shift that’s likely linked to consumer concerns about issues like overfishing and dolphin bycatch. It is evident that our seafood anxieties are spreading from fresh sources to canned, even while we still rely on canned tuna as a convenient and accessible protein source. So what’s worrisome about canned tuna?
That’s a generalized question without an easy answer, linked to changes in tuna fishing in both the US and abroad over the last 60 years or so. The West Coast of the US was once the Tuna Capital of the World, with San Diego fishing families playing a significant role. Prior to the 1950s, the West Coast catch was primarily line-caught with long poles, and processing occurred at canneries dotted up and down the coast, including several on the San Diego Bay waterfront, spanning from Laurel Street to Barrio Logan.
But stiff foreign competition in the 1950s led many, if not most, West Coast fishermen to adopt new practices, converting their boats
to purse-seine fishing, a method in which large nylon nets corral whole schools of tuna—and the dolphins and porpoises that swim alongside them. In 1972, the Marine Mammal Protection Act was passed, an important step toward protecting bycatch species that also contributed to the decline in the US tuna fishing industry, including those in San Diego and along the West Coast.
Which brings us back to the can. Responding to US fishing regulations and eager to preserve a way of life, some US tuna fishermen returned to older, more sustainable fishing practices, like handlines, hand-operated poles and lines, and trolling lines. These are now the favored methods endorsed by some organizations dedicated to sustainability and a healthy ocean environment, like the Monterey Bay Aquarium.
While dolphin-safe labeling is considered by some to be borderline meaningless due to its ubiquity, other considerations for ranking canned tuna’s sustainability include identifying the species of the fish and the fishery’s country of origin. Together, fishing method, tuna species, and fishery location form the trifecta of information conscientious consumers should strive to know about their canned tuna.
How can you find out? It’s on the can. And if it’s not, walk away. Brands that are making eco-conscious choices don’t try to hide it. Here are some things to look for:
• Species: Albacore, yellowfin, skipjack, and tongol are the most common species found in the can. Skipjack (commonly labeled “light tuna”) is the most abundant in the ocean. Pacific and Atlantic yellowfin (“light meat”) are above or near their target population levels, respectively, according to FishWatch.gov. However, tongol, also known as longtail tuna, is a small species found in the Indo-Pacific where fisheries management is poor.
• Country of Origin: Designates where the fish was caught. Fishermen operating in US waters must follow US regulations, which are among the strictest in the world.
• Product of: Designates where the tuna was processed. To support the US fishing and canning industry, choose USA.
• Fishing Method: For fisheries outside the US, look for “hand line,” “pole-caught,” “troll” or “pole- and troll-caught.” “No long lines” is an ocean-safe designation.
At minimum, “FAD-free” or “free school caught” may be a better choice than anything marked simply “sustainably caught,” which asks you to take the brand’s word for it.
• Certifications: Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) is recognized as the gold standard—look for a blue-andwhite logo with a fish and a check mark. “Turtle safe” is usually only found on brands sourcing pole- or troll-caught tuna. “Ocean Wise” means the fishery in which the tuna was harvested conforms to the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch program.
You may also come across “dolphin safe” or “wild caught” labels. “Dolphin safe” dates to 1990, ranking it among the oldest labels on the tuna can. But in recent years, some environmental organizations have raised concerns about the label, claiming that the verification procedures behind the label are neither universal nor independent. The Mexican tuna fishing industry has alleged the label is a form of protectionism. And NOAA has acknowledged there is cause for concern regarding whether dolphin-safe standards are applied in a consistent way across all fisheries. As for “wild caught,” with the exception of an extremely small farmed population of Pacific yellowtail and a slightly larger farmed population of bluefin (farmed
6 oz can Catalina’s Choice Solid
Olive Oil (don’t drain)
1/4 cup red wine vinegar (more to taste)
1/4 cup diced red onion
1 tbsp diced yellow bell pepper
1 tbsp capers
1/2 tsp onion powder
1/2 tsp garlic powder Salt & pepper Olive oil
In a bowl mix together tuna, vinegar, onion, bell pepper, capers and garlic and onion powders. Season with salt and pepper and additional olive oil to taste. Serve with crackers or vegetables, or use for sandwich filling. To make the best tuna melt ever, use a high quality sourdough and sliced Swiss or sharp white cheddar! Store salad in airtight container in refrigerator for up to a week. Adapted from Tommy’s original recipe which uses fresh steamed tuna.
in an attempt to save the species from extinction), all tuna is wild-caught—which makes the label “wild caught” seem like feel-good marketing.
What’s that mean for you? Apply a healthy dose of skepticism when scrutinizing the tuna can. And then do your homework by consulting websites like FishWatch to learn more about the fisheries and species in question. D
For more information: fishwatch.gov americantuna.com catalinaop.com
Amy Finley is a cook and writer living in San Diego. She is the author of How to Eat a Small Country, a memoir about living with her family on a farm in Burgundy, France.
San Diego’s long love affair with tuna fishing still lingers, as evidenced by the emergence of the Tuna Harbor Dockside Market downtown, inspired by San Diego’s contemporary fishing fleet and storied fishing history. Reverberations of the canning industry—which at its height brought more than $500 million (in today’s dollars) into the local economy, thanks to brands like Bumblebee Foods, Chicken of the Sea, Premier Packing, and Van Camp Seafood—echo here to this day, as Bumblebee and Chicken of the Sea maintain their business headquarters in San Diego.
The city’s most high-profile sustainable seafood market, Catalina Offshore Products, recently branded their own canned tuna, Catalina’s Choice Solid-Packed Tuna ($5, available at Catalina Offshore Products), featuring yellowfin and bigeye tuna caught by local fishermen, filleted at Catalina, and hand-canned in Oregon (where a small canning industry, primarily devoted to salmon, has remained). It’s worth seeking out.
But American Tuna is perhaps San Diego’s biggest tuna success story these days, exemplifying best practices and underscoring how traditional fishing and artisanal canning can work together to create an environmentally sustainable, financially viable business, even in the face of foreign competition. Founded by six San Diego fishing families, American Tuna purchases and processes only MSC-certified sustainable pole- and line-caught albacore fished by vessels that belong to the American Albacore Fishing Association (AAFA). The brand’s labeling—explained in detail on the company’s user-friendly website—makes each can of tuna traceable to the boat and captain that caught the fish. You can find cans of American Tuna for about $6 online, or at Jimbo’s, Frazier Farms, Whole Foods, Bay Park Fish Co., and a variety of other boutique retailers.
You can’t get much more local than local water. Or can you?
The water that flows out of San Diego County’s taps, irrigates our lawns, parks, playgrounds, and the fields of our farms is, in reality, more imported than local. Eighty percent of San Diego County’s water supply comes from northern and central California and from the Colorado River by way of massive systems of canals, reservoirs, and pumping plants—a complex network of infrastructures that most of us take for granted.
TThere is a local water supply, however, flowing down from our hills and mountains and moving beneath our feet in underground reservoirs or aquifers. At one time, it was San Diego County’s only source of water. And it was a much more sporadic source since it was dependent on rainfall, which, in the region’s arid climate, could fluctuate wildly. It’s no mystery why the region’s
indigenous people would shift their villages with the seasons. They followed not only the movements of animals they hunted for food, but also the seasonal ebbing and flowing of nearby natural streams.
It’s also no surprise that these ancient humans initiated the first attempts to manage their environment, including the water supply. Richard Carrico, professor in American Indian studies at San Diego State University, had this to say in his book, Strangers in a Stolen Land: Indians of San Diego County from Prehistory to the New Deal: “At several of these semi-permanent settlements, archaeological investigations have clearly documented stone retaining walls for holding back soils, dams and weirs to control water in the interior valleys, rock bases for large willow storage vessels, and other man-made features of the land.”
Carrico and other researchers have estimated that the indigenous population for all of San Diego County at the time of first contact with Europeans in 1769 was roughly 20,000. Compared to today’s population of 3.3 million, securing a safe and reliable supply of water has been a crucial element in supporting the needs of the region. “Developing water” and “water management” are prominent phrases reiterated by the San Diego County Water Authority and other agencies involved in the “water industry.”
Up until the mid-19th century, county farmers and ranchers practiced water management by digging wells, creating earthen dams to form local reservoirs, and keeping careful track of rainfall. The last half of the century saw growing collective action within and between individual communities and at the county and state levels to promote irrigation and other conservation programs. The city of San Diego’s first water company was formed in 1873. Other water companies and irrigation districts were created throughout the county, like the Escondido Mutual Water Company and the Vista Irrigation District, formed in 1904 and 1923 respectively.
Local, county, and state water management efforts became more intertwined with the creation of the Metropolitan Water District (MWD) of Southern California in 1928 and the California State Water Project (SWP) in 1960. The MWD brought a steady supply of Colorado River water to San Diego County, while the SWP linked our water systems to the reservoirs of northern California.
These efforts reflected the increased water needs created by the explosive growth in San Diego County, especially during World War II and its immediate aftermath, which saw the population practically double in only six years. It was in the midst of World War II, in 1944, that the first countywide water agency, the San Diego County Water Authority (SDCWA), was created “to administer the region’s Colorado River water rights.” This language underscores the dominant role played by “imported water” in the life of the county. The SDCWA also became a wholesaler of, and coordinator among, a growing number of local water districts across San Diego County seeking to manage this essential resource on the local and regional level.
At the water authority’s founding, it was working with nine member agencies. Today it works with 24. These agencies include those of six cities (including San Diego, Poway, National City, and Oceanside) plus utility and irrigation districts representing unincorporated municipalities and regions (including Fallbrook, Helix, San Dieguito, and Sweetwater).
To an outside observer, looking at the state of water management and development in our county today, one word that seems to stand out is “interdependence.” The overlap in usage of local water sources becomes evident when looking at the websites of, and talking to officials in, what is referred to as “the water world” or “the water industry.”
For example, talking about “local water” may actually mean water from a reservoir miles away from a particular community.
“We own nine reservoirs in different parts of the county,” says Brent Eidson, deputy director of internal affairs for the city of San Diego’s Public Utilities Department, clarifying that ownership refers to the city having “jurisdiction and responsibilities over certain aquifers.”
The geographical overlap in local water management is visible when one looks into the treatment of wastewater, the water that flows out of our homes, workplaces, and farm fields after usage. The facilities of San Diego’s Public Utilities Department not only treat the city’s wastewater, but also that of 15 other cities and districts, including Chula Vista, Coronado, El Cajon, Poway, Lakeside, Lemon Grove, and Alpine.
Treated wastewater, also known as recycled or reclaimed water, has been used in urban areas for the irrigation of lawns and parks. The possibilities of more advanced water treatment for use in agricultural irrigation is also on the agenda in the county, but it will require time since it involves some major infrastructure upgrades. In the meantime, “Farmers are irrigating with perfectly potable drinking water,” according to Eric Larson, executive director of the San Diego County Farm Bureau.
It’s no mystery why the region’s indigenous people would shift their villages with the seasons.The Miramar Reservoir supplies water to the city of San Diego. Photo by Mr. Gall, Department of Public Utilities, City of San Diego.
luckybolt.com
Then there’s the matter of what water-wise initiatives will cost to farmers and residential users.
In Escondido, the city’s Hale Avenue Sewage Treatment Plant treats and recycles a portion of the city’s wastewater so it’s suitable for irrigation for use in public spaces like parks and medians. But that water “can’t be used for croplands because of its salinity, especially for crops like avocados,” says Christopher McKinney, director of utilities for the city of Escondido.
With requests pouring in from Escondido farmers, the city is planning to remedy that with “a series of pipeline projects, a tank project, and an MFRO (Micro-Filtration and Reverse Osmosis) project,” McKinney says.
Reverse osmosis is the process by which the recycled water’s salinity can be reduced “down to a point where it’s usable for farmers,” says Larson. McKinney says the pipeline phase of the project is currently under construction and that the construction of the new tank and the MFRO will begin later this year. Construction of the distribution system for the desalinated water is expected to get underway next year. When the upgraded system goes online in 2021, McKinney adds that “the bulk of the water used for agricultural purposes [in Escondido] will be recycled water.”
The city of San Diego has similar plans as part of its Pure Water Program. This program and other such efforts, like Oceanside’s desalination plant, are important stories regarding water conservation, which in turn means conserving our local aquifers.
In the interim, Eidson says, “We’re poised with our nine reservoirs to capture more of the local runoff. Last year’s rainfall helped.” He
adds that they are hoping for more sustained rainfall before this year’s rainy season ends.
He also says his department is continuing to promote “a pretty robust conservation ethics program” which resulted in a 13–14% reduction in water usage since 2013—a number attributed to customers taking steps at home or in their businesses to use water more efficiently.
Officials talk of the differences in definitions and interpretations between the “water world” and the “wastewater world.” One “world” speaks in “acre-feet,” another in “gallons per day.” And then there’s the matter of what water-wise initiatives will cost to farmers and residential users. There are also discussions, apparently just beginning, about how to “recharge” local aquifers. Exploring the many aspects and sustainable solutions for the region’s water table will have to be an ongoing story.
Stay tuned. D
Freelance writer Vincent Rossi has been a contributor to Edible San Diego since 2008. He is the author of three books on San Diego County history and writes a weekly blog, The San Diego History Seeker. His special interests are history, politics, and culture, with a particular appreciation of the interrelationship between culture and food. With his wife Peggy, a professional genealogist, Vincent co-owns StorySeekers, a research and publishing company for family history, memoir, and historical books.
The thin band of water between the high rises of downtown San Diego and the Coronado Island ferry landing is a channel between worlds. Windswept ferries and water taxis deposit you at a demure dock in front of galleries, souvenir shops, and popular restaurants. It’s the perfect point to meet friends for cocktails on a shoreline patio to witness the sunset glinting off the mainland towers, or for people watching and a picnic in Centennial Park.
Many families hold the small community dear. Children still ride bikes through roundabouts and “born and bred on the island” is a point of pride for locals like Aubrey and Amanda Marks, who work at Clayton’s in the village. The island is also peppered with noble Navy homes and uniformed officers. Their indelible presence, especially when the ships are in, overflows into hideaways like the Little Club on Orange Avenue.
Full of architectural, historical, and natural beauty, exploring Coronado can be a spontaneous or planned pleasure trip. A visit doesn’t have to be fancy to be fulfilling.
Ferries and water taxis shuttle visitors to the island quickly from downtown docks. If you drive, sweep down to sea level from the towering Coronado Bridge. One route goes north from the first right, curling past Tidelands Park. Pull into the Il Fornaio parking lot on Tuesday afternoons between 2:30 and 6pm to peruse local produce at one of the oldest farmers’ markets in the region. Growers from across the county offer their fresh fruits and vegetables, sauces, vinegars, flowers, and more year-round. (Find out what’s in season at ediblesandiego.ediblecommunities.com/whats-in-season)
Technically, the island is a peninsula. Surfers and sunbathers gather along the wide-open southern strand, while kids splash at the small beach near the ferry landing. The powdery sand in front of the Hotel del Coronado lured Marilyn Monroe, presidents, and dignitaries into the sea. For a unique photo opp, find the Sand Castle Man, Bill Pavlacka, sculpting custom designs in front of the hotel.
Fortify yourself with Clayton’s Coffee Shop’s “homestyle cooking” for breakfast or lunch and revel in the diner’s retro decor.
Transform loose change into tunes from the countertop jukebox or the vintage box at the door.
Looking for something lighter? Cross the street to Cafe 1134 for baked goods, coffee selections, and bistro fare. You can escape the crowds and enjoy a quiet conversation in their petfriendly patio seating.
Grab a quiche at Tent City Cafe or dig into a plateful of fresh noodles at Island Pasta where Brant and Carol Sarber have been rolling it out daily since 1994. Across the street at Moo Time Creamery, indulge in handmade ice cream, yogurt, and sorbet with a dose of 1950s nostalgia.
Not much remains of the vast Spreckels family fortune that shaped Coronado, but in the center of the island is Spreckels Park, where a gazebo commemorating the founders hosts concerts in the summer and other events throughout the year. John D. Spreckels owned the Hotel del Coronado and overlooked his investment as well as his yacht from the family villa. Today the mansion is open to the public as the Glorietta Bay Inn. A new exhibit about Spreckels opened in March inside the Coronado Historical Association galleries.
While the famous frolicked at the Hotel del Coronado, a quieter resident settled down in the neighborhood: L. Frank Baum was already a well-known author when his family moved into the new hotel. He translated his whimsical talent into designs for the hotel’s Crown Room chandeliers and wrote The Wizard of Oz from the family’s winter home on Star Park Circle. While the home is currently privately owned, a glass patio offers views of Oz memorabilia and a mask of the Wicked Witch stares down from a beam near the door. Looking for more Oz? The new Coronado Library has a glass wall adorned with Baum’s characters.
Movies have been a big part of Coronado’s popularity. Spreckels, ever the marketing wizard, set up rows of tents along the beach for sunbathing visitors and filmed the Tent City to advertise island life. Silent movie stars and Hollywood producers followed. The Village Theater opened in 1947 with a lush Art Deco interior but closed in the 1970s. It stood silently fading for decades, but since a lavish renovation in 2011, the single-screen theater shows matinees daily and films nightly. The Coronado Film Festival will be celebrating its second year at the theater in the fall of 2018. In the village, Lamb’s Players Theatre grew out of their street art roots and moved into a renovated performance space in Coronado’s historic Spreckels Building, where they’ve been producing plays ever since.
The 100 block of Orange Avenue is home to a row of shops, restaurants, a brewery, and local hangouts. Planning a picnic at Centennial Park? Gather supplies at Boney’s Bayside Market or the deli inside Central Liquor for fresh, affordable subs and sandwiches. Central also offers the largest wine selection on the island. The awardwinning, family-friendly Coronado Brewpub has been turning out specialty drafts since 1996, well before artisanal brewing was a trend. Try the Orange Avenue Wit or get adventurous with the Coco Chaos, a coconut IPA. Next door, a jalapeño margarita complements the fresh Latin specialties at Fonda don Diego. Saiko Sushi is lauded for its sake flights and choice seafood; certified sake sommelier and chef Anthony Pasquale is a well of wisdom about fish and what to drink with it.
No one leaves Coronado Island hungry. The dreamy and delicious destination is well worth rediscovering again and again. D
Ever curious and hungry for adventure, Elaine is a passionate freelance travel and food writer and videographer. As founder of Tripwellgal.com, she follows stories about anything from culinary trends and traditional recipes to conscious travel and overlooked destinations. Based in San Diego as a scuba diving and seafood fanatic, she agrees with Helen Keller that, “Life’s an adventure or nothing.”
In a food desert, there’s not a lack of food; there’s a lack of access to healthy food. Corner stores and fast food restaurants offer a wealth of convenient, processed, packaged meals but few fresh fruits and vegetables.
Unlike many pressing social issues—homelessness, poverty, and addiction, to name a few— hunger is an invisible ailment. It may come as a surprise, then, to learn that one in six San Diegans lacks access to healthy food. As San Diego County’s economy pursues globally competitive companies, contracts, and jobs, income inequality grows. One local result is food insecurity.
“The biggest barrier to healthy, nutritious food is affordability,” says Anahid Brakke, executive director of the San Diego Hunger Coalition. “San Diego County is an expensive place to live, and wages in local service and blue collar industries aren’t keeping pace with rising rents.”
The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) defines food security as “access by all people at all times to enough food for an active, healthy life.” Couched in this definition is the issue of food access: how people are—or are not—able to access healthy, affordable, culturally appropriate nourishment.
This story is part two of a three-part series that takes you inside the inspiring world of San Diego’s food nonprofits. The remaining story will appear in the September-October issue. Since there are far more than we can fit in the series, our website features a directory of local food nonprofits.
For those people experiencing food insecurity, local nonprofits have stepped in with solutions. While charitable food banks are the most familiar to many, they’re not alone in combating hunger in the region. We spoke to three organizations that work to improve food access—and dismantle the barriers that prevent it.
There are a variety of reasons why corner and liquor stores don’t offer fresh fruits and vegetables, including redlining and affordability. BrightSide Produce was founded to serve as a fresh produce distributor for these community stores. The organization currently partners with 12 stores in National City, including two in a food desert.
“The stumbling block preventing supermarket chains from moving into lowincome and underserved areas is profit,” says Iana Castro, director of BrightSide Produce. “The only way to improve food access and what is offered in these communities is to work with the community stores that are already serving the community.”
BrightSide isn’t just about distributing fresh fruits and vegetables. As a studentdriven venture, it works to improve the food system by bridging communities. Through engagement with students, corner stores, and residents, BrightSide “brings about social change that is attainable, sustainable, and scalable.”
Project New Village’s work begins with a vision of what is possible. “We make a concentrated effort to disrupt the current way people in the neighborhood access food,” says Diane Moss, managing director of Project New Village.
Based in southeastern San Diego, an area low on healthy food options, Project New Village plants new ideas and aims
to grow a stronger local food network. The organization changes the way people eat through programs that change perspectives: community gardens that invite participation and the only farmers’ market in southeastern San Diego, which provides much-needed fresh produce and serves to reframe residents’ ideas about where their food comes from. Project New Village’s work is collaborative, and the organization views its neighbors and neighborhoods as assets in improving the neighborhood-based food supply chain.
In a racially just society, universal access to good food is the goal for individuals, families, and neighborhoods. However, all too often social, economic, geographic and cultural barriers compound each other. So putting a market in a neighborhood, for example, isn’t a fix for food justice. Creating policies and actions that boost community control are part of the solution.
Our third food access nonprofit leader has changed the regional food system by redefining relationships and definitions.
Mama’s Kitchen was founded in the early days of the AIDS epidemic to provide nutrition to HIV patients. Since then, the organization has delivered millions of healthy meals and expanded its mission to serve San Diegans whose vulnerability to hunger is due to illness.
Mama’s Kitchen’s core service is nutritious, home-delivered meals. The organization also runs a walk-in pantry and nutrition education services. In recent years Mama’s Kitchen has advocated for the necessity of good food in medical treatment, piloting a program to treat congestive heart failure patients with meals tailored to their condition.
“This goes beyond food access and insecurity; it’s about treating food as medicine,” says Alberto Cortés, executive director.
Cortés says that income isn’t the only reason San Diegans are food insecure. Communities that lack access to food often lack access to educational nutrition services. He also notes the connection between hunger and shame, which can prevent people from seeking assistance.
“What that one-in-six number tells you,” he says, referring to the proportion of hungry San Diegans, “is that long before people are going to be homeless, they’re going to be hungry.” Like BrightSide
Produce and Project New Village, Mama’s Kitchen seeks to treat the invisible faces of hunger by making local, nutritious food available to all San Diegans—no matter what barriers they might face.
One thing that’s clear when it comes to shockingly high numbers of our neighbors experiencing food insecurity is that challenges are multifaceted. Nonprofits step into the gap, creating, disrupting, and changing our food system to improve wellbeing for more people—a goal we can all stand behind.
Annelise Jolley is a San Diego-based writer and editor interested in stories about food, travel, and community development. She earned her MFA in creative nonfiction writing and her work has appeared in Sojourners and Civil Eats, among others. Follow her on Twitter @annelisejolley or say hello at annelisejolley.com.
Katie Stokes led two educational nonprofits in Escondido for nearly over 20 years and has served as a volunteer on several Boards of Directors. Her MA in Geography and her passion for travel, culture, and family inform and inspire her current work as publisher of Edible San Diego.
Specializing in red wines made only from estate grown and other Ramona Valley grapes.
National and international award-winning wine.
Tasting veranda open Sat. & Sun. and by appointment.
steve@woofnrose.com 760-788-4818 Woofnrose.com
EVENTS
A unique farm-to-table dining experience at The Lodge at Torrey Pines. This intimate communal meal is on the terrace overlooking the 18th hole of the Torrey Pines Golf Course. Executive chef Jeff Jackson and chef de cuisine Kelli Crosson present dishes carefully paired with wines. • 858-777-6635 LodgeTorreyPines.com
Learn to create Italian cuisine from chefs Accursio and Brian through this intimate, hands-on experience in Solare’s commercial kitchen. Every other Saturday at 10am. Italian-style coffee and pastry served, along with Italian wine for students interested in “cooking with wine.” Class size limited to 10. $75 • 619-270-9670
COASTAL ROOTS FARM
DICKINSON FARM
Veteran owned and operated farm in National City producing organically grown, heirloom fruits, vegetables, and herbs. Design your own box, buy a farmshare, and lots more options. 1430 E 24th St., National City, 91950 • hello@dickinson.farm 858-848-6914 dickinson.farm
ESCONDIDO CERTIFIED FARMERS’ MARKET
Find everything you need here, including meat. Sponsored by the Escondido Arts Partnership. Tue 2:30–6pm year-round on Grand Ave. between Juniper and Kalmia. • 760-480-4101 EscondidoArts.org
FALLBROOK - VALLEY FORT SUNDAY FARMERS’ MARKET
Sun from 10am–3pm at the Valley Fort, 3757 S. Mission Rd., Fallbrook. Great atmosphere, vendors, and music. skippaula@ verizon.net • 951-695-0045 TheValleyFort.com
FARM
FRESH TO YOU
Delivers organic produce to your door from family farms in Capay, and San Diego and Imperial Counties, weekly, biweekly, or every third or fourth week. No seasonal commitment required. Customize your box. $15 off first box. Sign up for home delivery with promo code “eathealthy18.” See page 11 for offer. contactus@farmfreshtoyou.com • info@kclfarm.com • 800-796-6009 FarmFreshToYou.com
Sun, 9-1pm at La Jolla Elementary School on Girard. A great community success story! All proceeds benefit the school. Fresh produce, food court, local artisans, and entertainment. 7335 Girard Ave. at Genter. • 858-454-1699 LaJollaMarket.com
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LEUCADIA FARMERS’ MARKET
Sunday, 10–2pm at Paul Ecke Central School, 185 Union St. off Vulcan in Leucadia. A big weekend farmers’ market with just about everything, including knife-sharpening. • 858-272-7054• leucadia101.com
LUCKY BOLT
Eat well, save time, and get more out of your day. Lucky Bolt makes it easy and affordable to eat well while you’re busy at work. Order by 10:30am and lunch will arrive between 11:30am and 12:30pm. A different menu each day uses produce from local, sustainable farms. • talk@luckybolt.com LuckyBolt.com
Every Sun from 10:30am–3:30pm, year-round, rain or shine, since 2011 in San Pasqual Valley. Fresh, locally grown produce, pastured eggs, raw honey, plants, ready-to-eat and take- home foods. 100% San Diego County producers. An old-fashioned farmers’ market. Supports the preservation and restoration of Sikes Adobe Historic Farmstead. EBT/credit cards accepted. I-15 at Via Rancho Pkwy, Escondido 858-735-5311 • NSDCFM.com
OCEANSIDE MORNING FARMERS’ MARKET
9am–1pm every Thu, rain or shine, at 300 No. Coast Hwy. Certified fresh, locally grown fruits, veggies and flowers, hot food, baked goods, and crafts. • outbackfarm@sbcglobal.net • 619-249-9395 MainStreetOceanside.com
RFB FAMILY FARM & APIARIES
Small-scale beekeeping and honey production with beehives placed on small family farms in northern San Diego County. Not-so-ordinary, locally grown produce and plants from a small Rancho Penasquitos backyard family farm. Exclusive producer of “PQ Backyard Honey.” Find RFB in the Certified Producers sections of select local farmers’ markets. RFBFamilyFarm.com
SAN DIEGO MARKETS
Robust farmers’ markets with great selections at Pacific Beach on Bayard btwn Grand & Garnet (Tue, 2–7pm); North Park Thursday at No. Park Way & 30th, (Thu, 3–7:30pm); and Little Italy Mercato, Cedar St. (Sat, 8–2pm). All accept EBT. PB and NP also accept WIC. Farmers market vendor training, Vendor 101 and 102. • 619-233-3901 SanDiegoMarkets.com
Convenient midweek market. Wed, 3–6pm in fall/winter, 3–7pm in spring/summer. Over 50 vendors in Carlsbad Village east of the railroad tracks. ronlachance@gsws.net • 858-272-7054 CarlsbadVillage.com
RESTAURANTS, FOODIE DESTINATIONS & CATERING
A.R. VALENTIEN
BETTY’S WHOLE PIE
Sweet and savory pies, from coconut to chicken pot, are the focus at this Southern-style outfit. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Located under the red roof inside Sunshine Gardens. 155 Quail Gardens Dr., Encinitas, 92024 • 760-230-6781
BettysPieWhole.com
MITCH’S SEAFOOD
Casual waterfront dining in the historic fishing neighborhood of Point Loma, serving up locally caught seafood with a view of the bay and the San Diego sportfishing fleet. 1403 Scott St., San Diego • 619-222-8787 • MitchsSeafood.com
San Diego Magazine 2017 Best Chef (Accursio Lota) and Best Wine List winner, and 2017 Barrilla Pasta World Championship Winner! Locally sourced ingredients, fresh-made pasta, organic produce, sustainably caught fish, and hormone-free meat. Great wine list, craft cocktails, and beers. Tue–Sun happy hour, Tue wine specials, live jazz on Thu. 2820 Roosevelt Rd., Liberty Station, Point Loma • 619-270-9670 • SolareLounge.com
SPECIALTY FOOD, DRINK & OTHER PRODUCTS
ANCIENT ORGANICS GHEE
BOB’S RED MILL
Committed to providing people everywhere with the best quality foods available, Bob’s Red Mill has a complete line of nutritional whole grain products, including gluten-free oatmeal in a cup, muesli, ancient grains (sorghum, millet, and farro) and glutenfree flour. • BobsRedMill.com
ESCOGELATO
EscoGelato’s luscious, super-creamy gelato is full of intense flavor and made fresh daily with the highest quality ingredients including fruit sourced from local farmers at the Escondido Farmers’ Market. 122 South Kalmia, Escondido, 92025 760745-6500 • EscoGelato.com
FLOUR POWER CAKERY
With 30 years in business, Flour Power is well-known and respected in San Diego. They’ve partnered with hundreds of local hotels, restaurants, and private venues, and can create the ideal cake for every occasion. From the most elaborate wedding experience to a cozy, romantic backyard celebration, Flour Power has a cake to match.• 2389 Fletcher Pkwy, El Cajon • 619-697-6575 • FlourPower.com
Specializing in local California extra-virgin olive oil, California balsamic vinegar made by local artisans. Tasting bar open Fri–Sun, 11–4pm. Olive oil and vinegar for sale 7 days a week. For Olive Oil 101 classes and private corporate tastings and events, call 760-518-5161. • 155 Quail Gardens Dr., Encinitas, 92024 NorthCountyOliveOil.com
PALEO TREATS
Foodie-approved paleo desserts since 2009! These guys are serious about flavor, texture, ingredients, and all things paleo, and they’ve ironed out the kinks of getting great desserts shipped to your door. Shipped all over the world from Australia to Afghanistan, 100% guaranteed. 619-795-2203 • 4662 30th St., San Diego, 92116 • PaleoTreats.com
GRANGETTO’S FARM & GARDEN SUPPLY
Family-owned and operated since 1946. Organic and natural products for your edible garden, trees, shrubs, flowers, succulents, and everything you need for their care. Great selection of home canning supplies. 1019 San Marcos Blvd. off the 79 Fwy near Via Vera Cruz • 760-744-3822 SuperGarden.com
SAN PASQUAL VALLEY SOILS
Topsoil (specially blended for growing in San Diego), compost, and mulch, ready to use or custom blended to your specifications. OMRI listed organic. Biosolids NEVER used. 16111 Old Milky Way, San Diego, 92027 • 760-644-3404 (sales); 760-746-4769 (billing & dispatch)• SPVSoils.com
SUNSHINE GARDENS
Where quality, selection, and service are always in season! A familyowned full-service garden center. Large selection of succulents, herbs, pottery, vegetables, seeds, garden art, and a friendly and knowledgeable staff. 760-436-3244 • 155 Quail Gardens Dr. at the corner of Encinitas Blvd., Encinitas, 92024 • SunshineGardensInc.com
TWIGS BY TERI
Encinitas florist Twigs by Teri is known for its sophisticated floral designs, one-of-a-kind gifts made by local artisans, and a huge selection of Fairy Garden items. Located inside the red-roofed gazebo in Sunshine Gardens. Open Tue-Sun. 760-943-8757. • 155 Quail Gardens Dr., Encinitas, 92024 • TwigsByTeri.com
San Diego County’s largest dealer in fine, imported Japanese koi and aquatic plants, and leader in the local pond industry, Underwater Environments specializes in Japanese koi, koi pond filtration systems, and water gardens. Open 7 days a week inside Sunshine Gardens. 760-634-1404. • 155 Quail Gardens Dr., Encinitas, 92024 • UEKoi.com
Edible gardens and fruit trees for your home and business. Complete design, installation, maintenance, and refresh services for everything from small home gardens to restaurant and corporate campus gardens. They’ll create the garden of your dreams! • 619-563-5771 • UrbanPlantations.com
WILD WILLOW FARM & EDUCATION CENTER
Educating the next generation of farmers, gardeners, and homesteaders. Farming 101: Intro to Small Scale Regenerative Farming course runs July 8 to Aug 19. Check calendar for monthly Open House Potluck; 4–9pm, donations accepted, $5 to participate, $3 slice of pizza from their outdoor pizza oven! Tours, field trips, and venue rental. Visit their blog at theartofagriculture.org • wildwillowfarm@sandiegoroots.org • SanDiegoRoots.org/farm
JIMBO’S...NATURALLY!
RAMONA FAMILY NATURALS
BIGGER STORE! Family-owned and operated natural food market with local, organic produce, raw milk, grass-fed meats, vitamins, supplements, specialty foods, and more. Open Mon–Fri, 8am–7:30pm, Sat, 8am–6pm, and Sun, 10am–6pm. 325 6th St., Ramona • 760-787-5987 • ramonafamilynaturals.com
DA-LE RANCH
{Local Marketplace}
Casi
Cielo Winery Tasting room open 12–6 pm most Saturdays & Sundays. Private events welcome. Catering available.
Dominick Fiume
Real Estate Broker
URBAN DWELLINGS REAL ESTATE
Dominick Fiume, real estate broker, provides exceptional customer service with specialized knowledge of urban San Diego. CalBRE No. 01017892 1228 University Ave. Ste. 200, San Diego, 92103 • 619-543-9500
BASTYR UNIVERSITY CALIFORNIA
California’s only fully accredited naturopathic medical school offers degrees in Nutrition and Culinary Arts, and a Master of Science in Nutrition for Wellness. Now offering cooking classes! Learn more at Experience Bastyr. 4106 Sorrento Valley Blvd., San Diego, CA 92121 858-246-9700 • Bastyr.edu/california.com
CATALINA
The first stop from the docks, make your plate the second! This bustling wholesale and retail seafood market in a working warehouse offers fresh, sustainably harvested seafood, much of it from local waters. Fri and Sat cooking demos. Mon and Tue, 8–3pm; Wed–Sun, 8–5pm. 5202 Lovelock St., San Diego, 92110 619-297-9797 • CatalinaOP.com
CLAYTON VACATIONS
Experience Spotlight on Wine in the Mediterranean. Enjoy hosted dinners, wine tastings, and meet-and-greets on board the intimate Regent Seven Seas Voyager with a renowned wine expert from Castello Banfi. To book, contact Bitsy Clayton, cruise and vacation specialist. • 888-451-6524; 858-451-6524 • bitsy@claytonvacations.com • ClaytonVacations.com
“Almost Heaven.” Specializing in handcrafted red, white, and rosé wines, and their newest addition, Kickass Fruit wines. They also offer gourmet grape and fruit jellies, handcrafted quilts, barrel stave crosses, cork items, and vineyard paintings. Open Sat and Sun, noon–6pm. 3044 Colina Verde Ln., Jamul, 91935 • 619-251-1818 • CasiCieloWinery.com
100% estate-grown Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, and Albariño. Picnic on the patio overlooking the vines or warm up by the fireplace this winter inside the rustic tasting room. Open Sat and Sun 11–5pm. 910 Gem Ln., Ramona, 92065 • 760-788-0059 • ChuparosaVineyards.com
Dedicated to growing Rhone grape varietals and vinifying and blending them in traditional and innovative ways. Available for private events. Open for tastings Sat and Sun, noon–6pm. 15404 Highland Valley Rd., Escondido, 92025 • 760-432-8034 • Domaine-ArtefactWine.com
A California wine estate producing Rhone and Iberian varietals high in the foothills of Palomar Mountain with a view of the ocean 30 miles to the west. The well-drained decomposed granite soil, warm days and cool nights, abundant sunshine, and cool ocean breezes make for ideal wine grape cultivation. Tasting room: 298 Enterprise St. Suite D, Escondido, 92029 888-409-8610 • info@jacksimonvineyards.com • JackSimonVineyards.com
Features award-winning red wines made from 100% Ramona Valley American Vitacultural Area (AVA) grapes, mostly estate grown. Try their flagship Estate Cabernet Franc. Open most Sat and Sun, 11–5pm, and by appointment. Call ahead to allow them to give you good directions and to confirm availability. 760-788-4818 • WoofNRose.com
For daily recipes, resources, and more about San Diego food culture visit ediblesandiego.com
Escondido—Welk Resort # 8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. 3–7pm, year-round 760-651-3630
Seeds @ City Urban Farm 16th & C Sts., San Diego City College 10:30am–12:30pm (Sept to June) cityfarm@sdccd.edu
Coronado 1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing 2:30–6pm 760-741-3763
Escondido * Heritage Garden Park Juniper btwn Grand & Valley Pkwy. 2:30–6pm year-round 760-480-4101
Mira Mesa * 10510 Reagan Rd. 2:30–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter) 858-272-7054
Otay Ranch—Chula Vista 2015 Birch Rd. & Eastlake Blvd. 4–8pm (3–7pm winter hours) 619-279-0032
Pacific Beach Tuesday *# Bayard & Garnet 2–7:30pm (2–7pm fall-winter) 619-233-3901
UCSD Town Square UCSD Campus, Town Square 10am–2pm (Sept to June) 858-534-4248
Vail Headquarters * 32115 Temecula Pkwy. 9am–1pm 760-728-7343
Encinitas Station Corner of E St. & Vulcan 5–8pm, May to Sept 4–7pm, Oct to Apr 760-651-3630
Ocean Beach 4900 block of Newport Ave. 4–7pm (4–8pm summer) 619-279-0032
People’s Produce Night Market *# 1655 Euclid Ave. 5–8pm 619-262-2022
Santee *# Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd. 3–7pm (2:30–6:30pm winter) 619-449-8427
State Street in Carlsbad Village State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 3–7pm (3–6 fall-winter) 858-272-7054
Temecula—Promenade * 40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s 9am–1pm 760-728-7343
Linda Vista *# 6900 Linda Vista Rd. 3–7pm (2–6 winter hours) 760-504-4363
North Park Thursday *# North Park Way & 30th St. 3–7:30pm year round 619-233-3901
Oceanside Morning * Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101 9am–1pm 619-249-9395
Rancho Bernardo 16535 Via Esprillo btw Via Fontero & Via del Campo 11am–2pm 619-279-0032
SDSU Campanile Walkway btw Hepner Hall & Love Library 10am–3pm (Sept to June) www.clube3.org
Sleeves Up Horton Plaza 199 Horton Plaza 10am–2pm 619-481-4959
Valley Center 28246 Lilac Rd. 3–7pm vccountryfarmersmarket@gmail. com
Borrego Springs Christmas Circle Comm. Park 7am–noon (late Oct to May) 760-767-5555
Horton Plaza # 225 Broadway Circle 11am–2pm 619-795-3363
Imperial Beach *# Seacoast Dr. at Pier Plaza Oct to Mar, 12–7pm; Apr to Sep, Noon–7:30pm info@imperialbeachfarmers market.org
La Mesa Village * Corner of Spring St. & University 2–6pm year-round 619-249-9395
Rancho Bernardo Winery 13330 Paseo del Verano Norte 9am–1pm 760-500-1709
City Heights *!# Wightman St. btw Fairmount & 43rd St. 9am–1pm 760-504-4363
Del Mar Upper Shores Park 225 9th St. 1–4pm 858-465-0013
Little Italy Mercato #* W. Cedar St. (Kettner to Front St.) 8am–2pm 619-233-3901
Pacific Beach 4150 Mission Blvd. 8am–noon 760-741-3763
Poway * Old Poway Park 14134 Midland Rd. at Temple 8am–1pm 619-249-9395
Rancho Penasquitos YMCA 9400 Fairgrove Ln. & Salmon River Rd. 9am–1pm 858-484-8788
Scripps Ranch 10380 Spring Canyon Rd. & Scripps Poway Pkwy. 10am–2:30pm 858-586-7933
Temecula—Old Town * Sixth & Front St., Old Town 8am–12:30pm 760-728-7343
Vista *# 325 Melrose Dr. South of Hwy 78 8am–1pm 760-945-7425
Allied Gardens Sunday Lewis Middle School 5170 GreenBrier Ave. 10am–2pm 858-568-6291, 619-865-6574
Fallbrook—Valley Fort 3757 South Mission Rd., Fallbrook 10am–3pm 951-695-0045
Hillcrest * 3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts. 9am–2pm 619-237-1632
La Jolla Open Aire Girard Ave. & Genter 9am–2pm 858-454-1699
Leucadia * 185 Union St. & Vulcan St. 10am–2pm 858-272-7054
Murrieta * Village Walk Plaza I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks/ Kalmia 9am–1pm 760-728-7343
North San Diego / Sikes Adobe #
12655 Sunset Dr., Escondido 10:30am–3:30pm year-round 858-735-5311
Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village 16079 San Dieguito Rd. 9:30am–2pm 619-743-4263
Santa Ysabel 21887 Washington St. Hwy 78 and 79 Noon–4pm 760-782-9202
Solana Beach 410 to 444 South Cedros Ave. Noon–5pm 858-755-0444
* Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks)
# Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer)
! Currently only City Heights
accepts WIC Farmers’ Market Checks and the WIC Fruit and Vegetable Checks.
All San Diego County markets listed except SDSU, Seeds @ City, and Valley Fort Sunday are certi fied by the County Agricultural Commissioner. Visit ediblesand iego.com and click on “Farmers’ Markets” for more complete information and links to farmers’ market websites.
