Edible San Diego Winter 2020 Issue 57 by Edible San Diego

Connecting through food in San Diego County NO. 57 • WINTER 2020

EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

WINTER

Nipplefruit

This is the true story of fruits and vegetables – the real world of farmers, researchers, chefs, foodies, and more. The Specialty Produce App is an educational, expository, live encyclopedia of fresh foods that you can hold in the palm of your hand. Just like taste buds, the Specialty Produce App evolves with time. Our research is persistent, and we are everstriving to bring the freshest and fullest information to the table. Our comprehensive articles read like a tantalizing menu, historical nonfiction, and a food lover’s guidebook all in one, while our in-app gallery of magazine-worthy food photos gives each produce item character.

Thousand Fingers Bananas

Put on your chef’s hat – whether you identify as a professional chef, home chef, or chef Boyardee – and let the applications section sprout ideas for culinary quests. Sport your Indiana Jones wide-brimmed fedora and discover new produce items through detailed descriptions and flavor profiles that allow your tongue to give taste and texture to foods you have never encountered. Finally, tighten your bowtie and sharpen your pencil as you browse our library of fresh food chronicles, indulging on the rich history, culture, and current affairs of each produce entry – and take your time

Rapiah Rambutan

because there is a lot to digest.

Still craving more? We would never leave you with an empty plate! Within the Specialty Produce App you will find our ever-growing recipe collection where you can build and save your own cookbook for future kitchen endeavors. Want to encourage diversity for your planet and your palate? Branch out by exploring our global in-app Share Market, where you can discover unique items or specialty marketplaces near you.

Bali Cacao

Download the Specialty Produce App today and discover your new favorite fruit or vegetable.

Winter 2020

CONTENTS Issue 57

IN THIS ISSUE

FEATURES

D E PA R T M E N T S

Value of Food

4 Publisher’s Note LIVING LOCAL

6 H ot Dish, Liquid Assets, Let’s Grow, Market Finds, Food Tech, Events, In Season EATING WELL

ON THE COVER The chefs called the dish Chicken Fat Kills Rules: buttermilk fried chicken stuffed with white cheddar, uni brioche French toast, honey fat emulsion, and chicken dashi reduction syrup.

12 A Cooler Way to Roast GROWING GOOD

18 Cutting-Edge Fruits and Vegetables 20 The Squeeze on Citrus 23 Fundamentals of Farming FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS

30 Three Men and a Hen

Find the recipe on ediblesandiego.com.

STAYCATION

THIS IMAGE Hardwood-smoked chicken with secret rub and barbecue sauce. Story starts on page 30.

LOCAL ATTRACTIONS

33 Eat, Drink, Bike, Repeat 37 Around the Block, Check This Out 38 Local Markets Guide PREP

40 Golden Chai

PAGE 24

Locals Only PAGE 25 SPECIAL REPORT

The Path to Climate Neutrality PAGE 27

W H AT TO LO O K F O R O N E D I B L E SA N D I E G O. CO M Winter reading, recipes, and places to eat only on our website.

READ

Vegan-Friendly Japanese • Like a Local: Rancho Bernardo • Winter Recipes • Grown in San Diego: A Farmer’s Story L I ST E N

NEW Living Local Podcast WAT C H

Salt Roasting Recipes Golden Chai 101 Valentine Apple Raspberry Tart + New recipe videos every week

OLIVIA HAYO

om re.c ewa ton eels ewh m th s fro plate

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PU BLIS H ER’ S NOT E |

Rooted and Reaching for Change

ike trees that silently, almost magically, exchange gasses with the air and partner with a subterranean community of microbes to share nutrients in the soil, we humans are also rooted in and draw sustenance from our surroundings. We’re rooted in our body and in this moment. Like trees reach for the sky, offering beauty, shade, habitat, pollen, fruit, and more, we each also have a lot to give as this new year shines bright. With all that is happening in the world, Edible San Diego kicks off 2020 embracing a new seasonal approach to all our editorial content, including four magazines that have evolved into seasonal guides to living local, recipe videos, my podcast, and new events that bring the culinary stories we have chosen for you to life. On the occasion of our mild Southern California winter, this issue explores local citrus farming and offers cozy recipes for salt roasting vegetables. Ramping up our collective literacy about where our food comes from, we share a glossary on farming practices and explain aquaponics (we won’t test you, but you can impress friends and family). Here at Edible San Diego, we invite you to think of food and indeed ourselves as part of a system that relates to other systems, so we invited Elly Brown, executive director of the San Diego Food System Alliance, to ground us in how food and climate relate in our region. We spotlight our local commercial fishers at the Tuna Harbor Dockside Market, along with small restaurant owners, each tackling big challenges to feed us. Lastly, bringing it home, we offer a neighborhood guide to South Park and sketch out the ideal staycation in Pacific Beach. Thank you for your readership, which we view as an essential conversation in our foodshed. We are what we eat, and we are the change we’ve been waiting for. May this issue usher in a new level of mindfulness, joy, and fellowship. Edible San Diego wishes you a blossoming New Year as we nurture both our roots and our reach. Katie Stokes Publisher, Edible San Diego

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edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

EDITORIAL Katie Stokes

Editor in Chief

Maria Hesse

DESIGN TEAM Maria Hesse

Designer

Olivia Hayo

Managing Editor

Visuals Editor

Felicia Campbell

Lulu Yueming Qu

Executive Digital Editor

Illustrator

Olivia Hayo

Haley Weisberger

Associate Editor

Contributing Stylist

Dawn Mobley

PUBLISHER

Copy Editor

Katie Stokes

Annika Constantino

Assistant Social Media Editor

MARKETING Nino Camilo

Event Curator

@ediblesd @ediblesandiego @ediblesandiego

SALES

John Vawter Trisha Weinberg Scott White

ADVERTISING

For more information about rates and deadlines, contact info@ediblesandiego.com 619-756-7292 No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. © 2020 All rights reserved. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If an error comes to your attention, please let us know and accept our sincere apologies. Thank you.

COVER PHOTO BY OLIVIA HAYO CONTACT

Edible San Diego P.O. Box 83549 • San Diego, CA 92138 619-756-7292 • info@ediblesandiego.com • ediblesandiego.com

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Hot Dish

Showcasing the Seasons in Ramona BY N O R E E N KO M PA N I K

resh produce, eggs, and chicken from local farms and gardens and upgraded comfort food is what you’ll find at Marinade on Main, a country bistro located in Ramona’s historic downtown. Chef-owners Jessica and Travis Tan and their dedicated staff bring smiles to their patrons, who return time and again for the outstanding service, seasonal fare, and regional wine selections.

Baked Cinnamon French Toast This baked French toast entrée is so perfect, not a drop of maple syrup is needed. Thick-sliced

bread is dipped in eggs and spices, then baked and topped with homemade streusel, crème anglaise, and candied walnuts.

Winter Quinoa Salad Flavors and textures blend beautifully in a winter salad representing the bounty of regional farms. The salad combines grilled cauliflower, shredded beets, baby heirloom tomatoes, arugula, almonds, and quinoa, with a jalapeño vinaigrette dressing that gives it an extra kick.

Herb-Fried Chicken It's quite possible you've never had fried chicken this good. A house favorite since 2016, chicken is brined and slow cooked in a sous-vide water bath with fresh herbs and lemon, then coated in buttermilk and special seasonings and lightly fried. Served alongside smashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables, this crunchy and juicy chicken will keep you coming back for more.

» marinadeonmain.com

Liquid Assets

BY J A C K I E B RYA N T

rinkable cannabis is the latest craze in the ever-buzzworthy cannabis industry. Thanks to new technology, including techniques that improve the onset of cannabinoid effects (i.e., it kicks in more quickly), many are saying that drinking weed is the future. Here are three places in San Diego that are doing it right.

Two Roots Nonalcoholic Cannabis-Infused Beer On the heels of opening the brewery’s first tasting room in Ocean Beach, Two Roots has created a nonalcoholic, cannabis-infused beer that’s also taking dispensaries by storm. Formally called a cannabis craft beverage, the brew is dealcoholized using special technology from Germany that preserves the integrity of the ingredients during alcohol removal while improving the taste. Two Roots also employs a special nanoemulsion technique that breaks down THC and CBD

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molecules more rapidly, resulting in a faster-acting high. » tworootscannabis.com

Therapy Tonics San Diego-based Therapy Tonics makes cannabisinfused espresso, milk, and tea drinks in 1-ounce to 4.20-ounce (get it?) bottles that each contain up to a very punchy 120 milligrams of THC. With flavors like coconut matcha, chai, and Mexican mocha, drinkers will be sipping on a delicious concoction that is also impeccably dosed and sourced from high-quality ingredients.

» therapytonics.com

Mr. Nice Guy Madison on Park’s most famous cocktail, the Mr. Nice Guy, made waves a couple of years ago for being one of the first CBD cocktails sold in San Diego. After a slap on the wrist from the law in early 2019, they were required to take the CBD out, but what remains is even tastier. The updated version includes a hemp-infused vodka by Humboldt Distillery, which lends a peppery and sweet finish to this upmarket piña colada. » madisononpark.com

Top: The winter salad at Marinade on Main in Ramona will look different from the fall salad with apple and pomegranate pictured here. What will be the same is the restaurant's commitment to showcasing locally grown produce in a seasonal salad. Above: Mr. Nice Guy got a recent makeover with the addition of an organic, hemp-infused vodka made by Humboldt Distillery on Northern California's Redwood Coast.

NOREEN KOMPANIK, TOM WILLIAMS

Refreshing Cannabis

| L I V I N G LOC A L

Let’s Grow Fava Beans

BY BELINDA RAMIREZ Used around the world as both an edible and a cover crop, the fava bean (Vicia faba), or broad bean, is one of the most ancient plants in cultivation. It also happens to be among the easiest to grow. This hearty plant likely became part of the eastern Mediterranean diet, particularly for the Romans and Greeks, around 6,000 BCE. As a cool-season crop, the fava bean loves cooler temperatures and is perfect for planting in January through March, with harvest beginning in as early as 80 days. Favas are a lovely addition to a raised bed garden, and are also excellent nitrogen-fixers well suited as a ground cover crop that promotes soil health. Stalks grow between two to seven feet tall. Packed with protein and fiber, young fava beans and pods can be eaten raw or cooked, while cooked older, bigger beans add a deliciously creamy texture to any meal. The flowers not only smell amazing but are also edible, and younger leaves of the plant give a spinach-like spin to your salad.

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Plant now and your fava beans will be ready in the spring.

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Market Finds Finding the Freshest Local Catch

Left: You'll find rockfish easy to clean. The mild flavor is perfect for preparing light and healthy ceviches. Below: Tilapia live and grow in a recirculating aquaponics system, both feeding from and creating food for the plants. The fish can be eaten once they're large enough.

BY K AY L E D G E R

» thdocksidemarket.com FISHERMAN SPOTLIGHT Fisherman Tristan Hayman is first mate on the fishing vessel Bigfoot. He and Captain Randy Hupp catch deepwater rockfish using rod and reel for the EcoLeeser booth. Hayman became a commercial fisherman four years ago “to pay for my fishing habit,” he says.

» ecoleeser.com

FOOD SPOTLIGHT Jenn Sablan’s popular Island Life Foods offers uni, briny lobes of the sea urchin. She buys the urchins from local divers, cracks and cleans them, then slips the raw uni back into the shell. Also for sale is tuna poke marinated Hawaiian-style, or in a spicy sauce. “It’s all about the taste of the fish,” Sablan says.

» ilnlyffoods.com

VENDOR SPOTLIGHT Family-owned Saraspe Seafoods specializes in lobster and spot prawns when in season. They also catch crab and fish such as bonito and ocean whitefish. Sarah Saraspe says seafood that was swimming in the water yesterday offers better quality.

» saraspeseafoods.com 8

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Food Tech

Aquaponics Provides Promise for San Diego’s Food System BY CHERIE GOUGH Aquaponics is a sustainable farming method that merges aquaculture and hydroponics. Through an aquaponics recirculating system, plants absorb nutrients provided by fish waste and return clean water to the fish. Vegetables, especially leafy greens, thrive in this pesticidefree system, growing up to 25% faster than in soil because nutrients in the water are constantly available to roots. Since this method uses only one-tenth of the water of conventional farming, it’s ideal in urban areas with low water security, like San Diego. Ecolife Conservation’s Innovation Center is a demonstration site in Escondido that last year grew over 2,000 pounds of lettuce, cucumbers, and tomatoes, which was all distributed to Meals on Wheels, Produce for Patriots, and Interfaith Community Services. The nonprofit unveiled its newest urban system at Franco on Fifth in Bankers Hill in September 2019. This system yields up to 108 heads of lettuce every 33 days. Chef Flor Franco donates the produce to family nutrition programs such

as Olivewood Gardens’ Cooking for Salud, and she also hosts healthy cooking demonstrations and aquaponics workshops. Ecolife’s educational program teaches youth about their role in the ecosystem and how to grow sustainable, healthy foods. The program develops engaging curriculum and donates hundreds of 20-gallon growing systems to local classrooms countywide. The organization also recently partnered with Escondido’s COMPACT program, installing an aquaponics system at the facility to use as a living laboratory that benefits at-risk youth from the juvenile justice system and provides educational and job training. You too can test the growing power of aquaponics with an ECO-Cycle Aquaponics Kit, or find more information about Ecolife’s community programs and resources on their website.

» ecolifeconservation.org Find our list of food-related nonprofits on ediblesandiego.com.

MARIA HESSE, LINN SPLANE FOR ECOLIFE

“The fish here is so fresh it’s still wriggling,” said a man to a passerby as he waited for the Tuna Harbor Dockside Market to open. The market, which features seafood caught by local fishing boats, is located on the dock behind Seaport Village on Saturdays from 8am to 1pm.

| LIVI NG LOCAL

Winter Events The Marine Room’s famous High Tide Breakfast combines a high-end buffet (think truffle eggs Benedict and smoked salmon) with amazing ocean views. Reservations available select weekends through March 8. » marineroom.com BIGA’s fourth annual Hog Roast and Harvest Celebration will feature local farmers and produce on January 11 from noon to 3:30pm. Tickets are $55, and 10% of proceeds will be donated to the Chef’s Celebration Foundation, a local nonprofit that provides culinary scholarships to aspiring San Diego chefs. » bigasandiego.com

Dine at a discount at more than 180 diverse restaurants

located all over the county during San Diego Restaurant Week, January 19–26. » sandiegorestaurantweek.com Celebrate Chinese New Year on January 25 and 26 with crafts, cultural performances, and tasty culinary specialties at the House of China’s familyfriendly festival in Balboa Park. » sbalboapark.org The seventh annual Zero Waste Symposium will be held on February 11 from 9am to 5pm, with topics focusing on environmental, economic, and social impacts associated with consumer waste. Registration will include a light breakfast, lunch, and networking reception following the event. » zerowastesandiego.org

Peruse the galleries at the San Diego Museum of Art for Culture & Cocktails: Flight of Love on February 13. The pre-Valentine evening event

will showcase Bouguereau & America with works that feature Cupid, his arrows, and escapades. » sdmart.org Join Vanguard Culture for Artist @ the Table on February 29 with special guest Jonathan Glus, executive director for the Commission for Arts and Culture. The 21+ fine dining event will feature a menu prepared by chef Danielle de la Puente and Valle de Gaudalupe wine pairings complete with a downtown rooftop view. » vanguardculture.com More than 200 West Coast breweries descend on Embarcadero Marina Park North for the Best Coast Beer Festival on March 21. The sudsy celebration is followed by the Best Coast Brunch Bash on March 22. » bestcoastbeerfest.com

There's more to do on our calendar at ediblesandiego.com/event-list.

ner, • Best Chef Win Local organic produce, tà Lo io rs Accu meat & seafood Winner • Best Wine List Authentic Italian cuisine orld • 2017 Pasta Wip Winner, Food, wine & spirits Championsh pairing events Accursio Lotà

LOCAL FISH FROM LOCAL FISHERMEN

Fresh Local Seafood on the docks in Point Loma

Patio dining Dog friendly 1403 Scott Street, San Diego 619-222-8787 www.mitchsseafood.com

KATHRYN CAUDLE

2820 Roosevelt Road • Liberty Station, Point Loma • 619-270-9670 • solarelounge.com

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In Season

Asparagus Freshly harvested asparagus is tender, sweet, and ready to eat in under five minutes. A fistful of asparagus spears will satisfy many nutritional needs and support healthy blood sugar levels. Try raw and thinly sliced asparagus with chunks of feta, a squeeze of lemon or blood orange juice, and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil with salt and pepper to taste.

The Best Season to Eat Greens BY MARIA HESSE ILLUSTR ATI ONS BY LULU Y UEMING QU We can all lower our carbon footprint simply by choosing to eat locally grown fruits and vegetables in season. Benefits include better flavor, higher nutritional values, and supporting regional and statewide growers. Look for these winter gems at your neighborhood farmers’ market, in a CSA box, or at a grocery retailer that buys direct from local farms.

Chard Chard is as shiny as it is leafy and green. A powerhouse source of vitamin K and fiber, chard tastes best when served raw. Remove the stalks, chop the leaves, and lightly dress and massage with a little extra-virgin olive oil and salt to enhance flavors and soften for a salad.

Here's a list of what we get to eat during the winter months.

Asparagus Avocados Beets Broccoli Brussels sprouts Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Celery Chard Cherimoya Citrus Collards Green peas Kale Kohlrabi Medjool dates Mushrooms Mustard Passion fruit Scallions Spinach Star fruit Strawberries Turnips

Cherimoya The green-skinned cherimoya is rich in vitamins B6 and C and offers a healthy dose of magnesium with tropical flavors reminiscent of coconut, pineapple, and banana. Select ripe cherimoyas that are slightly soft under the skin, similar to a ripe avocado. Use a sharp knife to split it open, scoop out the white flesh, and avoid ingesting the toxic black seeds.

Scallions Scallions (or green onions) carry a more refined flavor than their onion relatives. Look for delicate and slim green shoots with sturdy white bases. Slice the green part thinly to impart more flavor and add a handful to a tuna or bean salad sandwich mix to make lunchtime more interesting. Bonus: One cup of scallions offers twice the daily recommended adult dose of vitamin K.

Spinach Dark green spinach leaves will give your skin, nails, and hair a glowing boost. This low-calorie superfood originated in Persia, and makes for a delicious salad raw or a hearty addition to soups and stews.

Search for seasonal recipes by ingredient on ediblesandiego.com. 10

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EATIN G W EL L |

A Cooler Way to Roast Why we're saying yes to salt

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| EATI NG WE L L

BY HALEY WEISBERGER R E C I P E S A N D ST Y L I N G BY O L I V I A H AYO AND HALEY WEISBERGER P H OTO G R A P H S BY O L I V I A H AYO

As San Diegans, we know a thing or two

about salt. We taste it on our upper lips after a day at the beach, on the rims of our margaritas, and atop our flaky fish tacos. We feel it in the air on humid days and smell it as we drive up and down the coast. We crave it, and understandably so—salt is a necessity and is hands down the most important ingredient in the kitchen. It plays a vital role in the creation of flavorful food and in keeping our bodies running, helping to maintain blood pressure, hydration, and proper nutrition. Salt (or saltiness) is one of the five basic tastes that stimulate and are perceived by our taste buds, alongside sweet, sour, bitter, and umami. Cooking is essentially the art of balancing these five tastes, with salt playing a crucial role. Salt minimizes bitterness and balances sweetness and acidity. It deepens aromas, making food more flavorful. It draws out moisture, transforms textures, preserves, and even brightens color.

Salt Roasting 101 Salt is (or should be) used in every cooking preparation, whether it be boiling, sautéing, or roasting. Most of these preparations call for a sprinkling, a pinch, a handful, or a few tablespoons of salt. Salt roasting ups the ante. Home cooks tend to be wary of salt and often underseason dishes, resulting in bland, sad meals. With salt roasting, a shallow bed of coarse-grain salt, such as kosher, is laid along the bottom of a baking vessel. Root vegetables, potatoes, and the like are nestled in the small crystals and popped into a preheated oven to roast. The bed of salt evenly conducts heat, insulates whatever is roasting, and seasons—a triple whammy. The amount of salt used will seem excessive; it might even scare you. Fear not. What’s left is a thing of beauty: perfectly seasoned, crispy-on-the-outside, creamy-on-the-inside goodness. We promise!

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B E F O R E R OA S T I N G R O O T V E G E TA B L E S , L E AV E T H E S K I N S O N A N D S OA K W H O L E V E G E TA B L E S I N A L A R G E B U C K E T O F WAT E R W I T H A DA S H O F W H I T E V I N E G A R T O D I S I N F E C T A N D R E M OV E E XC E S S D I R T.

Spice It Up

Wo r t h T h e i r S a l t

Take it to the next level by adding hearty herbs like rosemary, thyme, or bay leaves and aromatics like garlic or ginger to your salt base to pack extra punch. Have fun with it! Mix and match to make your own special blend. When you are through roasting, don’t toss that salt. Use the leftover salt in a vinaigrette for your seasonal salad, to brine a roast, or in another round of salt-roasted veggies. Though salt may harden from its time in the oven, you can use the back of a spoon to break the salt into smaller granules then transfer to an airtight container. Some of the salt sticking to your pan? No big deal, it will quickly dissolve in warm water.

Crackly, crusty skins and buttery-soft interiors make this cooking method worth its salt. Literally. Show off the unique cooking method by bringing your baking dish straight to the table. The contrast of roasted vegetables against the blanket of snowy white salt and herbs will turn heads, evoking oohs and ahhs. Dust off any excess salt sticking to your vegetables and dig in. Pair salt-roasted veggies with your favorite sauce or creamy dip, and voilà, you have the perfect side dish for your winter spread.

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Five Kinds of Salt

Table Salt Often called granular salt, this variety comes from salt mines and is the most common. The granules have a uniform and distinct cubic shape that's small and dense, making it super salty. It’s processed to remove impurities, and anti-caking agents are added to prevent clumping. Iodine is also often added, which can impart a slight metallic taste. This is a fine and cheap option for everyday cooking, but we suggest you leave it on the table.

Kosher Salt Named for its use in koshering, the Jewish tradition of quickly removing blood from meat, this salt is pure and contains no additives. Kosher salt is inarguably the favorite cooking salt among chefs because of its clean taste and coarse, craggy crystals, which makes it easy to pick up, sprinkle, and adhere to foods. It is inexpensive, forgiving, and ideal for everyday cooking. Use it in your spice rub, to season pasta water, or to roast vegetables.

Flaked Sea Salt Light with a delightful crunch, flaked sea salts universally spark joy. The flakes occur naturally as seawater evaporates, making these salts labor-intensive to harvest and pricier than table or kosher salt. Fleur de sel, Maldon, and the like are truly special—basically the caviar of salts— because they cost a pretty penny. Sprinkle sparingly as finishing salt to add texture and a burst of flavor as a garnish on toast, salad, and on top of warm chocolate chip cookies.

Colored Sea Salt Pink Himalayan salt, Hawaiian black lava salt, and sel gris (gray salt) are a few of the colorful salts that pick up unique hues and distinct flavors from minerals found in the seas where they are harvested. These salts are special, pricey, and should be used as finishing salts. The pop of color enhances presentation, so look for ways to add some drama .

Infused Salt Salt that has been infused with herbs, spices, etc. You can buy them premade or make your own (maybe by salt roasting!?). Salt Farm, a local maker of infused salts, shows us that the possibilities are endless… smoked salt, garlic salt, wasabi-sesame salt, even truffle salt. Use the flavor profiles of infused salts to boost the flavors already occurring in dishes, like smoked salt for grilled meats and zingy lemon salt for crispy-skinned fish or roast chicken.

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Salt-Roasted Potatoes with Herby S a l s a Ve r d e SERVES 4 2 cups kosher or table salt 6 –8 fresh or dried bay leaves 1 pound baby or fingerling potatoes ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 cups finely chopped herbs of your choice (we used ¼ cup each dill, mint, parsley, and chives) Juice of 1 orange Juice and zest of 1 lemon Preheat oven to 425°. Pour salt into a baking dish or cast-iron pan. Nestle bay leaves and

potatoes evenly in the bed of salt. Pierce through the skin of each potato with a toothpick or the tip of a paring knife for steam to release. Roast until potato skins are wrinkly and crisp and the insides are tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Reserve bay salt for another use. While potatoes roast, make salsa verde. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together olive oil, chopped herbs, orange juice, and lemon juice and zest. Season with salt to taste. When potatoes are done, remove from salt bed and transfer to the mixing bowl with salsa verde. Toss to coat, salt to taste using leftover bay salt, and serve warm.

S a l t - Ro a s t e d B e e t s w i t h C a r a w ay- C h i l e O i l a n d Yo g u r t D i p SERVES 4 2 cups kosher or table salt 2 tablespoons caraway seeds, divided 1 pound beets, scrubbed and trimmed ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ½ cup full-fat Greek yogurt

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While beets roast, make the caraway-chile oil and yogurt dip. Steep 1 tablespoon crushed caraway seeds and the red pepper flakes in olive oil in a small pan over medium-low heat until warm and fragrant, about 10 minutes.

Preheat oven to 425°.

In a medium bowl, mix yogurt with lemon juice and zest and a pinch of salt. Drizzle lemon yogurt with caraway-chile oil.

Place salt and 1 tablespoon caraway seeds in a baking dish or cast-iron pan.

Serve beets over a big swoosh of yogurt and chile oil or serve on the side for dipping.

Juice and zest of 1 lemon

Arrange beets on the bed of caraway salt. Roast until tender, 50 to 60 minutes. If desired, peel skin. Reserve caraway salt for another use.

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S a l t - Ro a s t e d C a r r o t s a n d Radishes with Harissa-Honey Glaze SERVES 4 2 cups kosher or table salt 8 cloves garlic, skin on 1 pound carrots and radishes ½ cup honey 1 tablespoon harissa Preheat oven to 425°. Spread salt evenly into the bottom of a baking dish or cast-iron pan. Nestle skin-on garlic cloves, carrots, and radishes into the salt bed. Roast until tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Reserve salt for another use. In a mixing bowl, whisk together honey and harissa. (Prefer milder flavors? Use a little less harissa. Like it spicy? Add a little more harissa.) Toss roasted carrots, radishes, and garlic with a few spoonfuls of harissa-honey glaze and serve warm.

S a l t - Ro a s t e d L e m o n s w i t h Ro s e m a r y a n d T h y m e MAKES 4 CUPS 2 cups kosher or table salt 5 lemons, cut into thick rounds 1 handful fresh rosemary sprigs 1 handful fresh thyme sprigs Preheat oven to 425°. Add salt to bottom of a baking dish or cast-iron pan. Arrange lemon slices, rosemary, and thyme into the bed of salt. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes. Use roasted lemons as you would preserved lemons: Blend them into vinaigrettes, add them chopped to sauces, or stew them whole in your favorite tagine.

H U NGRY FO R MORE? We publish new seasonal recipes every week. Get inspired at ediblesandiego.com.

H EA RT Y Farro Salad with Pickled Apples By Olivia Hayo • Winter Citrus and Radicchio Salad with Poppy Seeds By Haley Weisberger • Box Crab Bisque By Dan Major F IV E WAYS TO CO O K W I TH Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower, and Oranges

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GROW I N G G O O D |

Cutting-Edge Fruits and Vegetables BY K ATIE STOK ES

What began as La Jolla Produce, a small, family-owned produce store in 1970, has grown under the leadership of brothers Bob, Richard, and Roger Harrington into one of San Diego’s most well-known food brands. Specialty Produce (the name changed in 1990) now delivers to over 600 restaurants seven days a week and serves the public in a sprawling retail and wholesale food hub located on Hancock Street that functions as part warehouse, part museum, and part culinary wonderland. Now more than ever before, professional chefs and home cooks aspire to get their hands on produce from around the globe any time of year. This is true even for those of us fortunate enough to live, cook, and eat in a year-round paradise for locally grown, caught, and crafted food and beverages. For those times when we desire global variety, Specialty Produce has an app for that: Twenty-five years in the making, the app puts the whole world of produce on your smartphone. As Specialty Produce’s early-days web editor Joan Sonntag put it, “Who would've thought a little produce stand would become a leader in technology in the distribution of fruits and vegetables?!” Roger’s vision for tech in the early 1980s led him to develop their early information system, and the team created an extensive website with online ordering as early as 1996. Today, in their checkout area, you can’t miss their 40-by-80-foot Jumbotron screen, which they liken to an ESPN highlight reel about the local food scene. They run a community podcast network hosting 15 podcasts from an on-site studio, including Edible San Diego’s Living Local. Specialty Produce showcases their restaurant customers' ingredients, food, and experiences through their DineLocal website, podcast, and social media channels. They have a state-of-the-art commercial kitchen set up for multimedia and a food waste recovery system, called Waste Not SD, or restaurant chefs. Even as their tech prowess reaches beyond

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what most produce distribution companies aspire to, Specialty stays grounded by offering a variety of organics, locally grown produce, and locally made food products as well as a broad array of produce, spices, condiments, bulk items, and other ingredients too numerous to mention. Home cooks can access these goods with a weekly farmers’ market box—a customizable mix of produce and artisan food products—or explore Specialty Produce’s cavernous facility while rubbing shoulders with notable chefs from across the county. Bob's curiosity became the globe-trotting research that makes Specialty’s inventory and database unique anywhere. Having traveled to so many countries in search of produce that he groups them by continent, he’s identified and documented well over 1,000 fruits and vegetables new to him or the San Diego market. This led to the production of what Specialty describes simply as The Book, a foot-high tome containing “the world’s most comprehensive and growing compilation of over 3,000 varieties of fruits and vegetables.” A living legacy culminating Bob’s life work, the app is a handheld version of The Book, updated daily with information and links to an archive of over 15,000 recipes. You can browse for something new, keep personal notes about favorite produce, share prized recipes, and, most notably, the app can even show you where to buy specific fresh ingredients. As a home cook or a pro, we may know that our health and the planet’s reflects what we cook and eat every day—but sometimes so many choices feels overwhelming. Specialty Produce and their new app brings a world of information to our fingertips and around the corner. This helps us make more informed choices about what’s on our plate. Now that’s smart. s

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GROW I N G G O O D |

THE SQUEEZE ON CITRUS BY PAUL HORMICK Immortalized in orange crate art and the detective stories of Raymond Chandler, the citrus industry of Southern California is an important part of San Diego County’s history, culture, and economy. Today, citrus constitutes one of the largest sectors of San Diego County’s agricultural output. Among our top 10 annual crops are lemons, at over $70 million a year, and oranges, at more than $43 million. Other local citrus production includes grapefruit, limes, and tangerines. Andy Lyall, along with his brother Tim, is a fourth-generation citrus farmer, growing mostly oranges, as well as avocados. Their father Warren still has a hand in running the family’s Rancho Monte Vista orchard, which occupies 250 acres in Pauma Valley. “We only use groundwater, and water is our most precious resource,” says Andy Lyall. To save water, the Lyalls employ drip irrigation as well as a micro

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sprinkler system. They plan to upgrade further to a subsurface irrigation system. “Water goes right into the ground, eliminating the loss of water due to surface evaporation,” Lyall says. As electricity to power the pumps is a big fixed cost, 10 years ago the Lyalls converted an acre of their land to solar panels to power their pumps. The panels save the farm $75,000 a year. Pests remain a challenge for local citrus farmers. Currently, growers are girding against the Asian citrus psyllid, a sap-sucking insect first found in the US in Florida in 1998. The insect itself is not detrimental to citrus, but the psyllid serves as a vector for huanglongbing (citrus greening disease), a bacteria that is fatal to citrus trees. The psyllid has devastated the citrus crops of Florida. The pest has also been found in Los Angeles County, Orange County, and outside Tijuana, but so far, San Diego County has been safe.

Lyall explains that local farmers have kept the psyllid at bay through voluntary cooperation, with all of the farmers doing their part to protect against the pest. The farmers have also set up a pest control district. The district works as a type of carrot-and-stick banking system for the farmers: The district taxes the farmers and then uses the tax dollars to reimburse the farmers when they treat their crops for the psyllid.

G ROW I N G G O O D

Like other farmers, Lyall has spoken up about the trials of keeping pace with paperwork and state regulations. According to the Citrus Research Board, an industry group that advocates for California farmers, environmental regulations— those not associated with groundwater sustainability—increase costs by $67 per acre of citrus. The same report claims that new labor requirements could raise costs by as much as $357 an acre. Much of where San Diegans live used to be citrus groves. Photographs from 1910 show orchards as far as the eye can see in Chula Vista. The landscape was similar in Lemon Grove, El Cajon, and other parts of the county that are now suburbia. As houses and development spread, some farmers moved production to the desert of Borrego. Hal Seley established Seley Ranch in Borrego in 1957. On 370 acres the ranch produces lemons, tangerines, and grapefruit, including the ranch’s signature Seley red grapefruit, which is prized for its sweetness. Hal’s son Jim started working on the ranch in 1964, and he now manages the ranch with his son Mike. The Seleys are known for innovation; they installed solar panels and have used drip irrigation for the past 50 years. Despite water-saving efforts, groundwater on which the Borrego farms rely has been declining for decades, as much as two feet a year and 125 feet in total. Agriculture uses about 70% of the water drawn from the aquifer.

ALEXANDRA RAE DANELL, LJUBAPHOTO

State regulations may require a reduction of as much as 75% on the draw of the Borrego aquifer. Despite the threat of cutbacks, Jim Seley plans on keeping his farm in Borrego. “For ourselves, the orchard is personal. I was raised spending time in Borrego Springs and have become personally attached to the land and the town,” he says. Keeping the farm may entail farming fewer acres. The future for our citrus industry may be seen in the efforts of Dennis Selder and George Tubon. The two San Diego natives plan on farming 10 acres in Dulzura. The rural community has had a climate conducive to vineyards, not citrus, which needs a moderate, frost-free zone. But, Selder points out, “We’re banking on climate change. The number of frost days is decreasing.” The partners emphasize their commitment to the environment and plan to create a quality habitat made up of native plants that will benefit local animals as well. It will also include a house that is environmentally suitable to the landscape. They see production growing finger limes up and running in two years. “Nothing tastes better in a gin and tonic than a finger lime,” Selder says. s

Top: Trees full of still-green fruit at Monte Vista Orchard, a 250-acre citrus and avocado farm. Middle: The Lyall family is the fourth generation to farm citrus in Pauma Valley. Right: The signature fruit of Borrego Springs is the red grapefruit grown at Seley Ranch.

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G ROW I N G G O O D

Fundamentals of Farming A Quick and Dirty Glossary BY ANNELISE JOLLEY

ven the most knowledgeable and food-conscious among us can feel hesitant when using terms like permaculture, biodynamic farming, and regenerative agriculture. We’ve put together a glossary of farming fundamentals and suggestions for where to find local examples. Whether you’re starting a farm, a backyard garden, or are just plain curious about where your food comes from, read on. We all benefit from learning more about farming the soil that sustains us and how to keep it healthy.

Organic produce is grown without synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, or genetically modified seeds. Many small farms use organic practices, but because the certification process is lengthy and expensive, their produce doesn’t always display the certified organic seal. Your local farmers’ market is a great choice for picking up local, organic food—or buy direct from a farm stand at Cyclops Farms, Chino Farms’ Vegetable Shop in Rancho Santa Fe, or the Farm Stand West in Escondido.

Permaculture

Biodynamic Buried cow horns and lunar cycles—yep, that’s biodynamic farming for you. Based on the ideas of Dr. Rudolf Steiner, biodynamics integrates science with “a recognition of spirit in nature.” A biodynamic farm or garden promotes biodiversity, builds soil fertility (with a focus on compost), and works in conjunction with the earth’s rhythms. Want to support local biodynamics? Consider a CSA subscription to Odd Trees Biodynamic Farm in Fallbrook. COASTAL ROOTS FARM

Organic

The principles of permaculture boil down to one idea: holistic integration of natural forces (air, soil, sunlight, moisture) to create a self-sustaining system. The term is a mashup of the words permanent and agriculture, which hints at permaculture’s goal of creating closed-loop systems. To see a local example, visit Coastal Roots Farm’s food forest in Encinitas, where trees grow symbiotically alongside other crops.

Regenerative

Conventional It’s too bad this growing practice is called conventional; for millennia, the conventional way to grow food meant no chemical additives. Today, however, conventional growing methods employ synthetic inputs like fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides. Conventional can also refer to the use of genetically modified organisms, monoculture, or intensive tilling.

Regenerative agriculture serves the dual purpose of building healthy soil and sequestering carbon. Wild Willow Farm in the Tijuana River Valley is on a mission to train the next generation of farmers and gardeners in cutting-edge regenerative growing techniques, and their workshops are excellent venues to learn regenerative practices such as vermicomposting and no-till practices from local experts.

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FE ATU RE |

Value of Food Survival of the Small Eateries BY THEODORE R. NIEKRAS On the surface, San Diego is experiencing a food renaissance, our local scene having attracted big-name chefs, Michelin ratings, and, of course, money.

In other cities, I witnessed the boom, the subsequent retail deserts and empty storefronts, chainification, and whitewashing, with even the best venues closing after being priced out of their own neighborhoods by the money machine that followed. So, it’s natural for me to feel nervous about this rise, given the recent closures of beloved neighborhood joints like the Land & Water Co. in Carlsbad, the Wooden Spoon in Escondido, and others. I started asking people on the front lines about the current challenges they face. I spoke to small business owners and operators that have solid establishments providing value and character to the neighborhoods they serve including Eddie Okino of health-focused Second Nature in Pacific Beach and Chicago-style Working Class in North Park, Francis Weidinger and Natalie Buczkowski of quirky University Heights Mystic Mocha, and a handful of other San Diego-based restaurateurs. For most of them, the bust seems precariously near. Margins are thinning, rents are climbing, and landlords are holding out for chains that pay more. Third-party delivery services like Doordash disrupt service, erase margins, and constantly screw up orders. Prices are too low, and the cost of labor is too high. “That’s the elephant in the room,” says Okino, “labor [costs] chipping away versus people wanting to be fair [to their staff].” In part, this is because California has taken a peculiarly myopic stance on labor with a oneminimum-wage-fits-all approach. Restaurants get taxed on tips that aren’t counted as wages, and until recently, restaurants couldn’t pool and share tips with kitchen staff. Weidinger explains, “In this industry model, most of your people are working for tips, so therefore they get minimum wage. When we started, it was

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Tacos at Second Nature in Pacific Beach.

$9 and now it’s $12, soon to be $15. That’s about 30–40% of our bottom line just gone.” Furthermore, labor costs are passed down the supply chain. “When these warehouses get hit again with minimum [wage increases]—it’s all getting passed off. That could single-handedly change the entire restaurant model. That scares me,” says Okino. Costs, then, will disproportionately pass onto smaller restaurants and groups that lack the economy of scale of conglomerates. Smaller establishments have narrower profit margins, and those costs will be passed onto consumers, causing demand to suffer. When high-profile restaurant groups in larger markets attempted to eliminate tipping and pay all staff fair wages by raising prices, sales declined, servers left, and most restaurants quietly returned to tipping within a year. Rents have also increased, and an unexpected rent increase or refusal to renew a lease can be devastating to a small business. Weidinger says if rents go up much more, he might be forced to move. Because of these trends, restaurants are partnering and becoming their own landlords by purchasing their spaces when they can. “I’ve seen a very big trend towards corporate and franchising, all groups, low-end and high-end,” says Weidinger. Okino is one such example. He partnered up after opening his first venture, Turquoise Coffee, and created Working Class and Second Nature with that partnership. Soon they’ll open another concept in Clairemont. Although diversifying and partnering reduces risk, it sacrifices autonomy and creates another barrier to entry for new players. There are other creative solutions at work, including small service charges, rents based on sales, handheld POS systems, and even call buttons that support staff efficiency without

replacing all of them. Touch screens have replaced counter staff at chains and even some private restaurants. In Las Vegas, two robot arms mix a variety of cocktails from 100 different liquors while patrons order from tablets surrounding their glass enclosure. And most of the restaurant and bar waitstaff at Philadelphia International and Newark Liberty airports have been replaced by tablets and kiosks. Owners will tell you these devices can work nonstop and never screw up an order. These devices also don’t talk or ask questions. They don’t give you the methodology behind why they added an ingredient, and they don’t joke. They don’t foster the socialization that humans crave most. What 20th-century author William Burroughs referred to as the money machine lends a metaphor for the modern perils of owning a restaurant in 2020. The money machine extracts wealth, treats humans as data, and lures people with the convenience of quantity over quality. While you’re a commodity to the money machine, to local establishments you’re a person, maybe even a friend. They love doing what they do—for you. That’s the difference. “We’re not here to make it rich,” says Weidinger. “It’s a lot of work. A lot of fun. But you’d hate yourself if you didn’t do it. I love these people.” Surviving as an independent restaurant takes guts, blood, sweat, and tears. Some might say they’re crazy for trying. All the inputs are increasingly expensive and the competition for customers more fierce. Talent, passion, and drive are necessary ingredients for success. Many thanks should go out to these die-hards tackling the intricacies of new labor laws and the promises of technology, somehow managing to source locally as much as possible, cook from scratch, and price the dish right. For all of us as readers and eaters, if we care as much, there’s a very simple way for us to show it. s

CHRIS TRAN

Having lived all over the world, from New York City to Seattle, North Carolina, Ft. Lauderdale, and Miami to Japan, China, and Indonesia, I’d seen this before. And having worked in almost every restaurant position, from server to cook to management, fast-casual to the ultra-high-end, it excites me to see San Diego finally come into its own.

Locals Only Neighborhood Eats

F E AT U R E

ILLUSTR ATI ONS BY LULU Y UEMING QU

In a city where longstanding eateries constantly compete with shiny, trendy newcomers for business, it’s a notable feat when old favorites hold their own in a decidedly fickle dining scene. Luckily, good food speaks for itself. That’s why these five neighborhood institutions continue to be top contenders for San Diego’s most beloved restaurants.

North

Fat Ivor’s

Visit RHK for breakfast and lunch seven days a week.The Neat Underground Dinner popups Thursday through Sunday evenings feature a monthly rotation of seasonally themed menus. Chef Alynn Emily emphasizes bold and provincial flavors with produce from W.D. Dickinson Farm that's worth checking out.

By Robin Dohrn-Simpson

» redhouseib.com

Valley Center in northern San Diego has pastoral fields, a panoramic view of Palomar Mountain, and since 1981, Fat Ivor’s Rib Rack.This all-youcan-eat restaurant enjoys full support from locals who love their food.

East

Owner FredYousefi said, “My two chefs have been here for 35 years. They’re hardworking, loyal, and love doing their job.They want to make good barbecue. Our menu is tried and true— Baby back ribs, slow-roasted prime rib, and pork chops are the main draw.” Yousefi plans on adding lighter fare to the menu for people who want to eat less. “We’ll offer a two-rib and a five-rib dinner. We’re also going to be adding two salads: a Mediterranean salad and a roasted beet and arugula salad.” When you visit, don’t forget to try the original BBQ sauce.

» fativors.com

South Red House Kitchen By Lucila DeAlejandro Bethany Case purchased the Red House Kitchen in 2017 because she had a vegan husband, lived in a food desert, and wanted to stay in Imperial Beach. She transformed it into a Best of Imperial Beach-winning, Surfrider Foundation Ocean Friendly Restaurant that embraces locals and service members from the nearby military base. RHK features many gluten-free and vegan options alongside sandwiches with clever names like Cake by the Ocean, a panini with housemade chocolate ganache, banana, and peanut butter, and the house specialty Donax Don’tTell, a bacon, Black Forest ham, and pastrami tower on tangy sourdough covered with béchamel. Ryan Bros coffee complements in-house baker Lupe Moreno’s rotating specialties, like strawberry green tea muffins topped with matcha frosting and slivered almonds.

Narumi Sushi By Kay Ledger Narumi Sushi is a no-nonsense establishment in a simple La Mesa strip mall. On a Saturday night, expect to find a long line waiting outside for a table or seats at the sushi bar. Inside, the crowded room buzzes as patrons devour Japanese-American classics from sushi to teriyaki, tempura to rice bowls, and satisfying yakisoba noodles. Garlic green beans are a nice start, or try the grilled Spam musubi wrapped with a thin strip of seaweed. Oyster appetizers are prepared fried or on the half shell, or opt for the takoyaki—a deep-fried octopus snack. According to owner and sushi chef Ippei Kishida, a sushi favorite is the maki maki roll, with salmon, cream cheese, and avocado inside, and yellowtail tuna outside. The seared smoked salmon roll with grilled eel is divine, while the Louisiana roll sports a hot Cajun seasoning.The fresh bigeye tuna will satisfy sashimi cravings. Be sure to finish with the green tea cheesecake.

» narumisushisd.com

West Tony’s Jacal By Kay Ledger Tony’s Jacal is your dad’s favorite oldfangled Mexican restaurant and bar, the kind every San Diegan of a certain age loved as a kid. Who could resist their stained-glass bullfighters, vivid pottery, wooden beams, and wild red sun sculpture? It’s convivial with a solid menu that’s been serving Mexican food in Solana Beach for over 70 years. The food is robust with classics like tamales,

enchiladas, tacos, and burritos. Meatier options include carne asada, fajitas, and beef, pork, or seafood chiles. The salsa is garlicky, the beans are flavorful, and the pork chile verde is prepared with both green and yellow chiles. The turkey tamale, a surprising menu item, is made with tender masa and steamy shredded turkey and comes dressed in a rustic sauce. Try the chicken mole in a red sauce thick with chocolate, chile, and spices, or the green version, a blend of tomatillos, chiles, and peanuts.

» tonysjacalsd.com

Central Bankers Hill Bar + Restaurant By Kai Oliver-Kurtin After nearly a decade in business, neighborhood haunt Bankers Hill Bar + Restaurant has proven it can stand the test of time. Although the modern American restaurant has a core group of dishes that go unchanged—including the revered BH burger and not-to-miss butterscotch pudding— most menu items are updated seasonally. Executive chef Carl Schroeder (also at Del Mar’s Market Restaurant + Bar) and chef de cuisine Justin Braly serve up thoughtfully prepared plates like Mexican-inspired skirt steak with polenta and crispy beer-battered fish & chips made with sea bass. During cooler months, starters including carrot soup with smoky andouille sausage and the creamy burrata with glazed pears, toasted hazelnuts, and buttery toast serve as elevated comfort food. Despite its industrial design, the dining room and patio maintain an intimate setting with rustic-chic decor, making it an ideal spot for both date night and happy hour.

» bankershillsd.com WINTER 2020 |

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Get the tools & connections you need to run a successful farm business!

Gain business & leadership skills

Hear from notable speakers

Make lasting friendships

Women’s Conference January 19-21, 2020

Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa | San Diego, California Visit NFU.org/WomensConference to learn more

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S P EC I A L R E P O RT

THE PATH TO CLIMATE NEUTRALIT Y IS PAVED WITH FOOD SYSTEM SOLUTIONS

BY E L LY B R O W N As a mother, ensuring the habitability of our planet has become the single most important issue of the next decade to me. If we don’t fix this problem, all of our societal issues will be exacerbated, further threatening global peace and prosperity. As the executive director of the San Diego Food System Alliance, what empowers me is that our mission statement—cultivating a healthy, sustainable, and just food system in San Diego County—offers a way forward.

We have ignored the implications of climate change for several decades despite the detailed warnings of scientists and the accumulation of weather-related disasters. Three recent Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) special reports have warned that: 1. We have about 12 years to avoid 1.5°C of warming from preindustrial levels. 2. The potential risk of multi-breadbasket failure is increasing. 3. Human activities are fundamentally reshaping the oceans. Six IPCC assessments, four US national assessments, four California assessments, and thousands of articles all point in the same direction: long-term emergency. Global food system activities—harvesting, land clearing, transporting, processing, and landfilling—are major drivers of climate change and are particularly vulnerable to weather-related events. Investing in community food systems and the resiliency of our region is more important now than ever.

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SP ECIAL REP O RT |

US BILLION-DOLLAR WEATHER EVENTS AND CLIMATE DISASTERS 1980–2019

16 WILDFIRES

26 DROUGHTS

42 CYCLONES

$80.4 B

$284.4 B

$934.6 B

109 SEVERE STORMS

31 FLOODS

$238.8 B

$126 B

17 WINTER STORMS

9 FREEZING EVENTS

$49.2 B

$30.4 B

Source NOAA National Centers for Environmental Information (NCEI) US Billion-Dollar Weather and Climate Disasters (2019). https://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/billions/

Confronting Climate Change Carbon dioxide levels are currently at the highest levels in human history (408.86 parts per million). Total US greenhouse gas emissions (GHG) increased 1.3% from 1990 to 2017 and agriculture is the fourth largest contributor (8% of GHG emissions). California’s GHG emissions actually decreased from 2000 to 2017, largely due to the increasing use of renewable energy to generate electricity, demonstrating some hope for progress. When observing data broadly, various global food systems including deforestation for industrial agricultural use, transportation, processing and packaging, freezing and retail, and waste contribute to anywhere from 21–50% of global GHG emissions. Globally, agricultural and food system activities generate tonnes of GHG emissions and these systems will be uniquely impacted by climate change. According to the fourth National Climate Assessment by the US Global Change Research Program, “Rising temperatures, extreme heat, drought, wildfire on rangelands, and heavy downpours are expected to increasingly disrupt agricultural productivity in the US. Expected increases in challenges to livestock health, declines in crop yields and quality, and changes in extreme events in the United States and abroad threaten rural livelihoods, sustainable food security, and price stability.” Fortunately, many of the solutions for addressing climate change have been known for years. Project Drawdown is a global research organization partnering with policy-makers, universities, nonprofits, businesses, investors, and philanthropists that recently quantified the impact of 100 solutions for reducing GHG emissions. At least 21 of the 100 solutions are connected to food systems, accounting for 32.5% of GHG drawdown.

Local Climate Action Plans With the federal government abdicating responsibility for addressing climate change, action has come from youth-driven movements (e.g., Fridays for Future, Extinction Rebellion),

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PROJECT DRAWDOWN FOOD SYSTEM SOLUTIONS SOLUTION 3

TOTAL ATMOSPHERIC CO2 EQUIVALENT REDUCTION (GT)

PERCENT OF TOTAL CO2

REDUCED FOOD WASTE

70.53

6.8%

PLANT-RICH DIET

66.11

6.4%

SILVOPASTURE

31.19 23.15

3% 2.2%

16 CONSERVATION AGRICULTURE 17 TREE INTERCROPPING

20.19 17.35 17.20

1.7% 1.7%

19 MANAGED GRAZING

16.34

1.6%

21 CLEAN COOKSTOVES

15.81

1.5%

23 FARMLAND RESTORATION

14.08

1.4%

24 IMPROVED RICELAND CULTIVATION 28 MULTISTRATA AGRICULTURE 30 METHANE DIGESTERS (large) 53 RICE DISINFECTION SYSTEM 58 LANDFILL METHANE 60 COMPOSTING 64 METHANE DIGESTERS (small) 65 NUTRIENT MANAGEMENT 67 FARMLAND IRRIGATION 68 WASTE-TO-ENERGY 72 BIOCHAR

11.34 9.28 8.40 3.13 2.50 2.28 1.90 1.81 1.33 1.10 0.81

1.1% 0.9% 0.8% 0.3% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.1% 0.1% 0.1%

FOOD SYSTEM SUBTOTAL

335.83

32.5%

ALL SOLUTIONS TOTAL

1034.75%

100.0%

11 REGENERATIVE AGRICULTURE 14 TROPICAL STAPLE TREES

A gigaton (GT) is equal to 1 billion metric tons.

states, regions, counties, and cities. In many ways, California has led the way forward: Through the passage of Assembly Bill (AB) 32, the California Global Warming Solutions Act of 2006, California became the first state in the US to mandate statewide reductions in GHG emissions. AB 32 sets a statewide target to reduce GHG emissions to 1990 levels by 2020, 40% below 1990 levels by 2030, and 80% below 1990 levels by 2050.

Since local governments have an important role in contributing toward AB 32 goals through their planning and permitting processes, local ordinances, outreach and education efforts, and municipal operations—and since many solutions revolve around food system activities—a key goal for San Diegans lies in cultivating a healthy, sustainable, and just food system in our region. San Diego County is a unique region to cultivate a model community food system; home

S P EC I A L R E P O RT

to more than 3.3 million people, it is California's second most populous county and the fifth most populous in the United States. There is also a significant amount of food insecurity: Our county has the second highest number of SNAPeligible residents after Los Angeles County. With more small and organic farms than any other county in the nation, strategies to preserve agriculture in this region facing drought and development pressure can serve as a model for the rest of California. Additionally, San Diego has a unique foodshed relationship with Mexico and also benefits from a diverse population. As cities and counties draft and update their local Climate Action Plans (CAPs), the following food system strategies are important opportunities that should be considered. Vibrant local and sustainable community food systems In order to be less dependent on the global sourcing and distribution of food, many local governments are supporting the emergence of local and sustainable community food systems. Some CAP measure examples include: •

Develop policies to encourage communitybased farms, including demonstration projects (City of Davis)

•

Support the 10 Percent Local Food campaign to encourage eating fresh, local foods in homes, institutions, and businesses (City of Cincinnati)

Food waste reduction, recovery, and recycling Many local governments are developing “Zero Waste Plans” linked to Climate Action Plans that include reduction, recovery, and recycling concepts. For example, the County of San Diego’s “Strategic Plan to Reduce Waste” includes source reduction, food donation, and composting operations at various levels. Promoting consumption of less carbonintense foods Many local governments are now encouraging their residents to consume climate-friendly food products. A few CAP measures: •

Encourage community to reduce meat and dairy consumption countywide by promoting Meatless Mondays and the Cool Foods Pledge (City of Santa Monica)

•

Conduct a community education campaign on the carbon consequences of food choices, with special emphasis on protein sources such as meat, fish, grains, and vegetables (City of Davis)

Carbon farming practices Several counties in California have begun adopting carbon farming measures into Climate

Action Plans including Marin, Santa Barbara, and San Diego. A suite of farming and ranching practices collectively called “carbon farming” hold the potential for delivering multiple benefits, including reducing GHG emissions, building soil health, and strengthening climate resilience.

imagine that the strategies above will become much easier to incorporate and measure progress around. There's excitement at the progress local governments in San Diego have made to proactively embrace food system strategies in local CAP efforts.

Carbon farming can also strengthen San Diego County’s urban-rural connections by shifting the role of farmers as ecosystem service providers, turning urban waste into compost, treating urban wastewater for irrigation, and addressing regional sustainability goals.

San Diego Food System Alliance and its network is leading efforts on all of the strategies addressed. Examples include the Save The Food, San Diego! countywide food waste awareness campaign with over 150 partners (savethefoodsd. org), promoting the Good Food Purchasing Program with large public institutions, and facilitating the San Diego Carbon Farming Task Force. Partnerships and active involvement of local governments in all of these strategies will be critical in order to acheive and maintain goals.

From 2000 to 2015, an estimated 1 million orchard trees were taken out of production, equating to a storage and sequestration value of 300,000 metric tons of CO2 emissions. Meanwhile, city CAPs are now prioritizing urban tree-planting goals. Can we envision a future where farmers are paid for the ecosystem services they are providing to the urban population? For more information on carbon farming opportunities, additional reports developed by Batra Ecological Strategies, San Diego Food System Alliance, and San Diego County Farm Bureau are available at sdfsa.org. As California strives to develop supportive frameworks to advance CAP measures, we can

San Diego Food System Alliance is also leading the development of San Diego County Food Vision 2030, inviting the public to envision the future of our region. Food Vision 2030 is a 10-year strategic plan that will guide collective action toward a healthy, sustainable, and just food system in our region. Please consider joining these important conversations. s

Food Vision 2030 will be developed over the next 15 months with extensive community and stakeholder input. A common agenda produced from these efforts will be presented in December 2020 with goals for the next decade. Subscribe at sdfsa.org/food-vision-2030 and follow @sdfoodvision.

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FR IE N DS W IT H B EN E F I TS |

Three Men and a Hen BY BETH DEMMON P H O T O G R A P H S BY O L I V I A H AYO

n a recent Monday in Vista, Keith Lord, founder of culinary consulting firm Stratәjē Fourteen, invited a couple friends to cook in his backyard for what he described as a “chef’s day off.” The intimate feast was prepared by the likes of Willy Eick, executive chef at Mission Avenue Bar & Grill and Matsu, and Davin Waite, executive chef and owner at Wrench and Rodent Seabasstropub, The Whet Noodle, and The Plot (soon to be open). The private event was not only an opportunity for longtime colleagues and friends to recharge over the shared experience of cooking, connecting, and feasting, it was a reunion to champion a product Lord describes as “magical and insanely good.” That magical product is Autonomy Farms’ hand-fed chickens, raised in a Bakersfield-based operation owned and operated by Lord's close friend Meredith Bell. Bell worked in hospitality and high-end food service positions for years in San Diego, and much of that time was spent assuming various roles alongside Lord, Eick, and Waite across the city’s tight-knit food scene. In 2013, Bell decided to pursue her passion and launched Autonomy Farms a year later. Today, she estimates her farm is home to as many as 10,000 chickens at any given time, making them her signature product along with a few other varieties of humanely raised livestock such as grass-fed cattle and turkeys. Lord has long lauded the remarkable quality of Bell’s chickens while also lamenting the fact that more people, especially in San Diego, aren’t aware of their availability. “She does everything [for the chickens] from start to finish, including the processing,” he explains. “We thought [this event] would be a different way of showcasing them. Nobody hand-feeds chickens. Nobody grows clover for them to finish on, and you can taste it in the product.” Autonomy’s chickens are available for purchase at the weekly Santa Monica

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FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS

TURNING 10 CHICKENS INTO 15 DISHES • C H I C K E N H E A R T S YA K I TO R I , P U M P K I N , O K I N AWA N B RO W N S U G A R C R U M B L E , TO G A R A S H I • C O L L A R D -W R A P P E D L I V E R YA K I TO R I , W I L D R I C E S T U F F I N G • G R I L L E D OY S T E R S & C H I C K E N OY S T E R S , B A R B E C U E B U T T E R • C H I X ‘ N D I P, C H I C K E N F E E T, C H I C K E N FAT R A N C H

Farmers’ Market, locally through wholesale distributor Specialty Produce, or by mail order, but Lord sees San Diego as an untapped market for Bell. “I really just want to help Meredith reintroduce her product to a community that she’s so tied to. For me, it feels like I might be helping her to bring it full circle. It’s time!” he says with a laugh. For Lord, 2017 International Caterers Association Chef of the Year, the long-term professional relationship that has been established with Bell is extremely close and special. “We push each other, we drive each other, [and] we both have a passion for what we do. It’s been like that since day one.”

Bell admits it’s pretty much just her running the show. This makes expansion of her business difficult to achieve if she wants to maintain hands-on quality. “In all honesty, that’s something that I struggle with figuring out: how to scale business without losing what we stand for, what the product is, and what makes it unique to begin with. I’ve been taking it slow… I’m not willing to compromise the quality at this point just to focus on expansion.”

Bell agrees: “He’s been a huge, adamant supporter of mine for a really long time and would probably do anything to help me succeed with this farm. Everybody needs positive reinforcement and encouragement. I’ve been lucky to have that with Keith.”

With supporters like Lord and the rest of the party in her corner, finding that balance seems a little bit easier. “I need to be around people who inspire me and encourage me to be better and really think outside the box. I think that group of chefs definitely does it for me,” says Bell. “A lunch like this is so unique and different, with so many chefs that are truly inspiring and encouraging me down the path I should be taking. It shows that where I’m at is exactly where I should be.” s

Autonomy Farms is a grassroots operation, and

» autonomyfarms.com

• B U T T E R M I L K F R I E D C H I C K E N , W H I T E C H E D DA R , U N I B R I O C H E F R E N C H TOA S T, H O N E Y FAT E M U L S I O N , C H I C K E N DA S H I REDUCTION SYRUP •S H R I M P B I S Q U E , S T U F F E D K AT S U C H I C K E N W I N G S , TO G A R A S H I • F R E S H Y U Z U & W H I T E C L AW L I M E CAN CHICKEN, PEPPER SPICE • C H I C K E N & T H E E G G , G O L D E N C U R RY, Y U Z U L E A F F RO M T H E YA R D •HULI HULI CHICKEN TSUKEMEN • H A R D W O O D -S M O K E D C H I C K E N , S E C R E T P S YC H I C B LO O D B ROT H E R R U B , O K L A H O M A B A R B E C U E S AU C E • P L A N B S P I N Y LO B S T E R , TA N G E R I N E C H I C K E N S A L A D , L E N T I L S , K A B O C H A S Q UA S H , HA ZELNUT OIL • U S U K U C H I S H OY U - B R I N E D W I N G S , SANSHO

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S TAYC AT I O N

Eat Drink Bike Repeat BY FELICIA CAMPBELL PHOTO GR A PHS BY MEHDI TAGH AV I

You won’t find me anywhere near the boardwalk in the summertime. The wall-to-wall crowds and frenetic vibe don’t fit with the low-key, beach town-of-a-bygone-era fantasy that drew me to San Diego in the first place. In the wintertime, however, it’s one of my favorite places to be. The sun still shines and the weather is mild when most of the tourists and day-trippers have gone home. It becomes possible to not only shuffle, but to walk or even bike the three-mile stretch of boardwalk that connects Pacific Beach and Mission Beach. The ride requires patience as you weave around walkers and joggers, which is all the better for taking in the kaleidoscopic view of local culture. At the northern end of the stretch, families and surfers from the surrounding neighborhoods make their way down to Law Street Beach. Dads pushing baby buggies whiz past on rollerblades. Old-timers walk hand in hand. North of the pier sits the posh Tower23 hotel and iconic Kono’s Cafe, and to the south, you’ll find the beach bars beloved by frat boys, marines, and party girls. Past the clubs and souvenir shops, Woody’s signals the end of PB and the beginning of Mission Beach. Here, the boardwalk widens, and you’ll see more yoga mats than margaritas. Near Belmont Park, crews on lowrider bikes congregate, families have picnics on the grass, and the smell of bonfires and charcoal fills the air. At the southernmost tip of Mission Beach, the lanes narrow and the sand is overrun by tan, svelte beach volleyball teams battling it out. The boardwalk belongs to the locals in the wintertime, and they know how to enjoy the relaxed cadence of beach life. Mornings are for post-surfing breakfast burritos, coffee, or coldpressed juice. Afternoons are for biking, sunning, and naps. Sunset is best enjoyed standing on the pier, watching the last rays disappear over the sea. And at night, when the views are no more, it’s time to leave the boardwalk behind and explore the haunts tucked throughout the neighboring blocks.

Locals know winter is the best time to enjoy the Mission Beach to Pacific Beach boardwalk.

Where to Stay Even if you live only a few miles from the boardwalk, like I do, a stay on the beach is an absolute vacation. There’s simply nothing like waking up to the sound of waves and fresh sea air. There are tons of vacation homes for rent in PB and Mission Beach, but to maximize your R&R, Tower23 is the best boutique hotel option with its flawless design, prime location, and stellar on-site restaurant. Beachfront rooms put you right over the boardwalk, while the three beach-view rooms are set a few hundred feet back and overlook the fire pits, deck loungers, and Pacific Ocean beyond. Valet parking for one car, welcome drinks for two, and free use of beach chairs, beach toys, and beach cruisers are all included in the standard resort fee.

» t23hotel.com WINTER 2020 |

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STAYC AT I O N |

Where to Eat The seasonal menu at Tower23's JRDN on the boardwalk and Felspar features fish and produce from local farms. Carrots from Black Sheep and JR Organics star in both the buttery carrot risotto and as a kimchi-roasted side served with smoked mashed potatoes under meltingly tender short ribs. The dessert menu is playful and surprising. Go for the “chef’s whim” seasonal special and you won’t be disappointed. The architect was a genius when it came to making the view the star of the show from every angle of this restaurant. The seats at the interior bar offer a front-row perch overlooking the boardwalk, pier, and the sun setting over the ocean. The wine list is solid, the beer list totally respectable, and the creative cocktails—like the Entrepreneur, made with whiskey and pomegranate juice—are balanced and strong.

» t23hotel.com/dine You deserve some kind of award if you can finish one of the monster-sized breakfast burritos at Kono’s Cafe on your own. They are amazing fuel for a day of biking, surfing, or kayaking. We recommend the #5, which comes stuffed with chorizo, jalapeños, avocado, eggs, cheese, and pico de gallo. Unless you show up right when they open at 7am, be prepared to wait in line for a good 15 minutes or more. Once you place your order, find a seat on their pier deck, boardwalk-facing patio, or inside the cozy shop and your food will be out in less time than it took to order it. » konoscafe.com

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Basic burgers and breakfast burritos at Woody’s Breakfast and Burgers come with a view at this PB counter service classic. » thewoodgroupsd.com Two blocks east of Tower 23, Square Pizza turns out the best thick and crispy Detroit-style pies in town topped with perfectly gooey fresh mozzarella and a ladleful of garlicky, slightly sweet sauce. Sold by the quarter pie, it can easily be a snack for two or a solid meal for one. They’re open until 2am on weekends, making it a great place for a late-night snack to end your evening. » squarepizzaco.com In the Belmont Park complex, Draft is the place for a solid burger and beer overlooking the beach. The attached coffee shop is also a great place to grab a pastry and a morning latte. » draftsandiego.com Live your best life and get a giant churro for $2 at El Jefes Taco Shop. » belmontpark.com/food/el-jefe Simply the greatest, Juice Wave sources local fruits, veggies, honey, and even spirulina for their cold-pressed juices, smoothies, and acai bowls. The bowls are topped with granola that’s made inhouse along with freshly ground nut butter. » juicewavesd.com The newest location of Better Buzz Coffee is right on Mission Boulevard. Get (arguably) the best cappuccino in town or a nitro cold brew

and an avocado toast or grilled sandwich like the bacon, almond butter, and banana on sourdough, or a more classic ham, egg, and cheese on brioche. » betterbuzzcoffee.com

Where to Get a Drink When the sun goes down, you can’t see the view anyway, so unless you want to party like you’re 21, skip the beach bars and head to Saska’s. This old-timey steakhouse has been open since 1951 (though there was a recent change in ownership), and the interior is everything you want it to be from the red leather banquettes to the plush, weathered bar stools to the crooning oldies playing in the background. Sit at the bar and order a whiskey sour and a boat of creamy artichoke dip or a few oysters. After 10pm they have a selection of small bites on the bar menu if you aren’t up for a big steak dinner. » saskas.com The patio at Lahaina Beach House has a mellow, local vibe despite being packed to the gills. If you want a lively, crowded, cash-only dive bar sans thumping club music or wall of flatscreens showing the game, this is your spot. Baja Beach Cafe is home to those fishbowl-sized margaritas you won’t admit you actually want. The food is not going to blow your mind, but the location right on the boardwalk and the fun of drinking out of a glass you can barely lift make it a quintessential boardwalk drinking experience. » bajabeachcafe.com

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