Edible San Diego Spring 2020 Issue 58

Connecting San Diego County through food and drink NO. 58 • SPRING 2020

EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

Spring

Spring bounty

This is the true story of fruits and vegetables – the groundbreakers of the garden renaissance that chase away winter gray and lead us into the bright, crisp, lush season of spring.

Green garlic sprouts as a hallmark of springtime, signaling the change of season. Artichokes show the effect of any lingering wintry temperatures, “frost-kissed” with bronze tips and a blistered appearance, and imparted with a rich, nutty flavor. And it just wouldn’t be spring without an abundance of peas of all kinds – snow peas, snap peas, English peas, and pea tendrils.

Green Garlic

Yet there’s nothing quite like spotting the first strawberries of the season as they burst onto the green scene of the spring market unapologetically red. Strawberries (which are not actually berries, botanically speaking) are fresh and flirtatious like the season itself with their conical heart shape, sweet-tart flavor, fragrant aroma, and succulent yet firm texture.

They play well with others in the kitchen and are surprisingly adaptable, easily finding their way into sweet or savory dishes at every course, from salad and soup to desserts and afterdinner drinks.

Strawberries

There are over a hundred species of strawberries found around the world (including all fifty states of America and every province of Canada) with wild strawberries growing on each major continent except Africa and Australia. The modern strawberry we know and love today is actually a natural hybrid of the wild Virginia strawberry (native to North America) and a Chilean variety. Thanks to European colonists in the New World and a

Wild Strawberries

French spy in Chile, the two varieties met in France where they were inter-planted by chance in the 18th century.

If you’re craving more juicy details about strawberries or other spring favorites, download the Specialty Produce App and keep exploring their role in this world, inside and out of the kitchen!

Spring 2020

CONTENTS Issue 58

IN T HIS ISSUE DE PARTMENTS

4 Publisher’s Note LIVING LOCAL

7 H ot Dish, Liquid Assets, Let’s Grow, Bookshelf, Market Finds, Food Tech, Events, In Season

FEATURES

Value of Food Putting a Price on Farming PAGE 20

W H AT TO LO O K F O R O N E D I B L E SA N D I E G O. CO M Spring reading, recipes, and places to eat only on our website.

READ

What to Order at The Gluten Free Baking Company • Furaido Premium Chicken in Poway • Spring Recipes • Peruvian-Inspired Comfort Food at Pachamama

12 Satisfying Tastes for Better Health

Locals Only A Taste of Mesopotamia in El Cajon Valley

GROWING GOOD

PAGE 22

Living Local Podcast WAT C H

FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS

Hometown Street Foods Provide Comfort and Independence

EATING WELL

16 Herbs to Contain Yourself 18 Mighty Micros 31 An Abnormal Partnership STAYCATION

33 Devouring Downtown

L I ST E N

Farro Salad with Pickled Apples Build Your Own Avocado Board + more recipe videos

PAGE 27

LOCAL ATTRACTIONS

36 Around the Block, Check This Out 38 Local Markets Guide PREP

ON THE COVER Feeling board? Visit the Little Italy Wednesday Market to pile up on kumquats, carrots, peas, rapini, and watermelon radishes from Gilbert & Lee Quintos Farms. Turn the carrot tops into pistou, drizzle it over ricotta, and dig in. Find the recipe on page 40.

THIS IMAGE Chef Lan Thai shows off green garlic fresh from the fields at Chino Farm. See how to sauté and serve it with mahi-mahi on page 14.

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OLIVIA HAYO

40 A Board to Spring For

edible br ooklyn

TELLING THE STORY OF HOW THE CITY EATS AND DRINKS • NO. 52 SPRING 2018

THE

Drinks ISSUE

BOTTLING LIQUID COURAGE MAKING SPICEBUSH FIZZ BIOINTENSIVE ORCHARDS BOOM IRISH BARS’ FLUID IDENTITY A BREWERY-FERMENTARY-JUICERY IN ONE Member of Edible Communities

Complimentary

edible

COLUMBUS THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD

Member of Edible Communities No. 39 | Winter 2019

edible east end

Celebrating the Harvest of the Hamptons and North Fork

No. 36 High Summer 2012

TasTy B&B’s Hand-PrEssEd TorTillas long island livEsToCk FarM-gEnEraTEd PoWEr

US $5.00

WinEs FroM onE WoMan, PalMEr and MErlianCE MEal-WorTHy golF CoursEs Member of Edible Communities

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edible

m a n h at ta n

long island TELLING THE STORY OF HOW LONG ISLAND EATS

TELLING THE STORY OF HOW GOTHAM EATS • NO. 30 JULY�AUGUST ����

NO. 10 FALL ��� 5

THE

TRAVEL ISSUE

REAL GREEK YOGURT LONG ISLAND CITY BEER CRAWL THE KINSTON KRAWL IN NORTH CAROLINA CONNECTICUT SENSE MEMORIES WHAT ARE BLUE POINT OYSTERS?

GOAT MILK SOFT SERVE CONSCIENTIOUS CATERING

US $5.00

CATCHING THE BLUES

Member of Edible Communities

edible

Issue 45

Spring 2020 MARIN & WINE COUNTRY

Celebrating the harvest of Marin, Napa and Sonoma counties, season by season

edible

LOCAVORE BEER Member of Edible Communities

SEEDING CHANGE AT RIKERS ISLAND

N O. 45

FALL/WINTER 2019

MEMPHIS FOOD, FARM AND COMMUNITY IN THE MID-SOUTH

FAMILIAR FACES KITCHEN QUARTERBACKS CLASSIC COCKTAILS UNSOLICITED ADVICE

Explore a world of local food through the magazines and websites of Edible Communities. We’ll introduce you to the chefs, farmers, brewers, home cooks and others who inspire and sustain local flavors across the US and Canada.

ANDERSON VALLEY • LOW PROOF SPIRITS • BLACK VINES MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

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PU BLIS H ER’ S NOT E |

Culinary Operations & Logistics Consulting Keith A. Lord

Founder/Principal

stratejefourteen@gmail.com 760.583.9237

Helping to create an inclusive environment that fosters innovation, collaboration, systems and practical businessbased solutions.

M AT S U modern japanese by chef william eick for tickets: eatatmatsu.com

Renewal

W

e’re in a springlike mood here at Edible San Diego as we share what we do and who we are with more residents and visitors every month.

Just before the holidays, a national Edible survey of polled readers across the country— many of them from San Diego County—enabling them to chime in about what’s most important to them. The results revealed interest and loyalty to local content and brands that share similar values. Edible readers care about economic sustainability for farmers and healthy water, soil, and natural spaces. We learned a lot more, but our favorite fact is the average 52 minutes people spend reading each issue. The national survey is only one example of the several ways your local Edible is connected to a national network of media companies equally committed to these values. Whether you have your reader hat on or you’re a local business owner, we’ve got great feedback up our sleeves and ideas brewing.

We’re also busy preparing for two new quarterly events this year: a launch party for each new seasonal issue of our magazine, plus a separate series we dubbed Table of Contents (TOC). You can look forward to a casual mixand-mingle with contributors, readers, and partners at our issue launch parties, and TOC will bring each issue to life with multicourse dining experiences inspired by our feature stories. Make sure to get on our e-mail list so you can join in on these exclusive and original gatherings.

We welcome all the joys of spring with an issue full of fresh deliciousness and surprising discoveries: Explore barbeque like Korean brisket, pork adobada, and smoked turkey the way they do it in Texas. For a good pairing, look for a few of the best seasonal brews and tasty synergy at Cork and Craft and Abnormal Beer Co. For your cooking pleasure, chef Lan Thai from Enclave Adventurous Superfoods shares some key tips to finding wellness through f lavor, and we styled an epic veggie board with Venissimo’s ricotta recipe.

Take a fresh look at microgreens and find garden tips from Stepheni Norton from W.D. Dickinson farm and Nan Sterman from A Growing Passion on KPBS. Consider the Value of Food with some thoughts on farming and find intriguing Mesopotamian food and culture in El Cajon, and a triumphant market-to-mortar story about women in the farmers’ market food business. For those of you eager to explore our region like tourists at home, put on your walking shoes for a downtown Staycation and chef Keith Lord’s guide to downtown Vista, and check out the California Surf Museum in Oceanside.

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CHASE LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY @CHASE_LIFE_PHOTOGRAPHY FOOD • EVENTS • FASHION • PRODUCT ERIK BALDWIN • 760 • 845 • 0420

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We’ll have to pace ourselves with so many options to cook and eat the rainbow, dig in the soil, and get out to enjoy this unique culinary region of ours. It’s that spring feeling! Let’s savor the renewal of life a little bit every day.

Katie Stokes Publisher, Edible San Diego

LOCAL FISH FROM LOCAL FISHERMEN

Fresh Local Seafood on the docks in Point Loma

edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year

1403 Scott Street, San Diego 619-222-8787 www.mitchsseafood.com

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

EDITORIAL Katie Stokes

Editor in Chief

Maria Hesse

DESIGN TEAM Maria Hesse

Designer

Olivia Hayo

Managing Editor

Visuals Editor

Felicia Campbell

Lulu Yueming Qu

Executive Digital Editor

Illustrator

Olivia Hayo Associate Editor

Dawn Mobley

PUBLISHER

Katie Stokes Copy Editor Media Icons Annika Constantino d Social Media Icons MARKETING Assistant Social Media Editor Nino Camilo Event Curator 2017 Updated Icons Social Media

@ediblesd 2017 Updated

@ediblesandiego @ediblesandiego

SALES

John Vawter Trisha Weinberg Scott White

ADVERTISING

For more information about rates and deadlines, contact info@ediblesandiego.com 619-756-7292 No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. © 2020 All rights reserved.

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If an error comes to your attention, please let us know and accept our sincere apologies. Thank you.

COVER PHOTO BY OLIVIA HAYO

Come visit the family farm hidden in the heart of Vista where organic & regenerative agriculture practices are utilized to grow delicious healthy produce for our community to enjoy.

Fresh Produce Farm Animals 629 Mar Vista Drive * Vista, CA 92081

www.sandnstraw.com

CONTACT

Edible San Diego P.O. Box 83549 • San Diego, CA 92138 619-756-7292 • info@ediblesandiego.com • ediblesandiego.com

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| LIV I NG LOCAL

| L I V I N G LOC A L

Hot Dish Fan of the Flame

BY CHRISTINA KANTZAVELOS

COURTESY OF TACOS EL GORDO VIA BIEN MEDIA, THE LOST ABBEY

A

s the days begin to warm up,

so do our cravings for fireroasted flavors. Check out these grilled favorites that can only be found in America’s finest city.

Chargrilled Brisket Dae Jang Keum has been the hot spot for fans of self-grilled quality meats, seafood, and veggies in Kearny Mesa for over 15 years. Named after a famous Korean movie and song that translates to “Jewel in the Palace,” it’s the only Korean barbecue restaurant in San Diego that uses natural oak charcoal rather than electric or gas grills. The owners wanted to provide restaurant-goers with an authentic Korean barbecue experience. The brisket is the most popular meat option: Thin slices of meat are grilled over natural oak and are extremely tasty dipped in salted sesame oil or Plant now any of the house sauces. After eating and your fava here once, you may think the rightful beans will be name readyshould in the be Jewel of San Diego. » daejangkeumkoreanbbq.menutoeat.com spring.

Pork Adobada Tacos Tacos El Gordo has been a staple in Chula Vista and San Diego since 1998. They are notorious for Tijuana street-style tacos that feature handmade corn tortillas, topgrade meats, and fresh, housemade guacamole and salsas. The adobada pork is marinated in salsa and spices, then cooked al pastor (spit-grilled), like shawarma. Regulars add pineapple to the taco for an extra layer of flavor. » tacoselgordobc.com

Texas Wood-Smoked Turkey Grand Ole BBQ filled Southern California’s need for a true Texas barbecue experience. Featured on the Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, it is the place for traditional white oak-smoked, pit-barbequed meat. Aside from Central Texasinspired barbeque staples like tri-tip, brisket, pulled pork, and beef ribs, they also offer smoked turkey that will melt in your mouth. The woodsmoked turkey is slow cooked for six hours with only salt and pepper, and some of the gluten-free sides include green beans, corn pudding, potato salad, and coleslaw. » grandolebbq.com

Liquid Assets Beer Springs Eternal

BY BRANDON HERNÁNDEZ

S

pring has sprung! The birds are chirping, the bees are buzzing, and the beers are flowing in the nation's craft-brewing capital. Start your springtime suds exploration with a trio of highly anticipated standouts.

Eppig Brewing Natural Bridge Special Lager Japanese-Style Dry Lager (5.8% ABV)

Lost Abbey Carnevale Ale Belgian-Style Saison (8% ABV)

Released each year in conjunction with Brazil’s celebratory Carnevale season, this award-winning Belgian-style saison is floral with a pronounced white-pepper spice.

It’s delicious, fresh, and pairs well with herbaceous Easter dinner and springtime fare. When aged at cellar temperature for two to four years, secondary fermentation with Brettanomyces (wild yeast) ups its funk factor while giving it a bone-dry finish. » lostabbey.com

Pure Project with Alvarado Street Brewery Cannery Row 2.0 Northeast-Style Murky IPA (6.7% ABV)

Eppig is considered by many to be San Diego’s finest lager producer.

So what makes this one special? The incorporation of rice in the grain bill, which lends to this Japanese-style lager’s light, smooth character. It’s perfect for San Diegans as we return to the great outdoors following sub70-degree hibernation stints. Also special: This cult favorite is being canned for the very first time this spring.

This hazy IPA comes from a collaboration of breweries sharing One Percent for the Planet certification. Crafted using three of the world’s most in vogue hop varietals—Mosaic, Galaxy, and Strata—it has a soft, pillowy mouthfeel. Plus, the hop-borne flavors of peach, mango, and orange without any intense lupulin bitterness makes this an IPA hallowed by hop heads and ale amateurs alike.

» eppigbrewing.com

» purebrewing.org

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LIV IN G LO CAL |

Let’s Grow

Pocket Melons

BY STEPHENI NORTON I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y L U L U Y U E M I N G Q U Tasty, easy to grow, and high in vitamins A and C, pocket melons (small muskmelons) are perfect for spring planting.

Originating in Ancient Egypt, the whole plant has been used for centuries: The leaves are used for dolma, the seeds for oil, the fruit as a savory side or as a perfume, and the melons carried whole in pockets.

Also known as plum grannies, they are light enough to trellis and grow easily with well-drained soil, lots of sun, and air flow. For small spaces, add an obelisk trellis to a pot and train the vines. Or, create an Instagrammable dinner spot in your own backyard by training the vines over a pergola that lets the melons drape overhead.

Pocket melons slip off the vine when they are ripe and ready. Slice and sprinkle with your favorite spices, then quickly grill and enjoy the caramelized sweetness.

Bookshelf

Oak Age Experiment

Market Finds Healthy Chamoy and More

BY K E L LY B O N E Gisel Barrett’s hunger for healthy Mexican snacks prompted a collection. Now, the narrows of Barrio Logan’s Maxa Market can hardly contain the discoveries of owners Barrett and Edgar Flores. The vegan goods are vetted for social responsibility, community reinvestment, and natural sourcing, showcasing products prepared with modern techniques and traditional goodwill.

MuMa Paxil Salsas In Tijuana, Ángel Ibarra and Ángel López explore their passion for chiles. The Valle de Guadalupe olive oil-based salsas pair complementary tastes and textures that range from savory blends with peanuts, sesame, and pepitas to sweet bites of figs with pistachios.

San Diegan Christine Dionese joined Oak Bottle founder Joel Paglione to create a curious collection of culinary cocktails, mocktails, and gastronomic treats in Oak Age Experiment (Oak Bottle, 2019). Vibrant fruits and vegetables were selected locally from markets like Specialty Produce and City Farmers Nursery to create recipes and stunning visuals.

Essentially a manifesto on oak-aging techniques and plant-based recipes,

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Maxa’s selection of chamoys—a sweet, sour, and salty chilespiked condiment—line the side wall. Ready-to-drizzle tubes of Chilito Sirilo hold the tartest paste. Beside it, jars of Dulce Encanto contain a subtle blend of hibiscus, tamarind, chiles, and stevia in a jam-like consistency. Bottles of Nainari Artisan Chamoy offer a glossy chile sauce fruited with tamarind and tejocote (Mexican Hawthorn fruit).

Amaranth Girl Cosmetics Lip Balm the 200 pages are filled with more recipes for health-conferring tonics and mocktails that make good use of herbs and flowers, and popular superfoods like matcha, turmeric, and maca.

The sweet scent of cocoa butter rises from the lip balms crafted

by Amaranth Girl Cosmetics. Damaris Ortiz, whose line of Abbas House amaranth bars can be found on the shelves at Maxa (try the coffee-spiked ones), learned that the native grain’s oil is not only anti-carcinogenic and antioxidant-rich, but also perfect for lip balm.

» theoakageexperiment.com

» maxamarket.square.site

HANNAH BETTS, KELLY BONE

The book offers 45 recipes for plantbased mocktails, oak-aged original cocktails, and savory dishes. Recipes like the colorful rainbow brassica crudité with oak-aged EVOO and balsamic are eye-catching enough to entertain guests. Mocktails like La Banana Affogato and the Green Goddess are great for socializing.

Chamoy

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Food Tech Restaurants Rescue Food with MealConnect

BY MICHELLE POVEDA Ever feel immense guilt about leaving leftovers at a restaurant?

Well, there’s an app for that.

Feeding San Diego is here to assuage some of that guilt with MealConnect, an app designed to help restaurants, catering companies, and event centers donate leftovers to local food banks. The free service aspires to bridge the gap between hunger and waste.

In San Diego alone, one in eight people experience food hunger, while 40% of all food produced is wasted. MealConnect, an online platform, has already reduced 1.6 billion pounds of food waste since the program’s US debut. San Diego became the eighth city in the country to launch MealConnect in November 2019, joining major markets like Washington DC, San Antonio, and Austin.

The number of local companies that have joined MealConnect is growing, and currently includes a variety of venues such as Bread & Cie, Pure Burger, Toast Catering, the French Oven Bakery, and more. Those interested in joining the food donation effort are encouraged to get the app and sign up online. » feedingsandiego.org/mealconnect

COURTESY OF FEEDING SAN DIEGO

Find our list of food-related nonprofits on ediblesandiego.com.

baked goods • international cuisine • tea

“Every day, San Diego throws away more than enough food to solve hunger,” says Vince Hall, CEO of Feeding San Diego. “MealConnect is an exciting new way for the community to divert good food from going to waste so it can be used to help feed the people in San Diego County struggling with hunger.”

• fruits • vegetables • ocean view • flowers • orchids • seafood • hummus •

DEL MAR CIVIC CENTER

1050 Camino Del Mar (between 10th &11th Streets) FREE PARKING IN GARAGE Operates year-round Saturdays 12 - 4 p.m.

Community Yoga on upper level from 12 - 1 p.m.

baked goods • kettle corn • coffee

Restaurants can sign up for free through the app and report food that meets the guidelines for product donation. Notifications are sent to the donor’s phone once a driver has accepted the food donation and a pickup time is scheduled. Trained volunteer drivers then collect and deliver the food to local food banks. To ensure the safe handling and distribution of food items, Feeding San Diego implements strict food safety standards.

• honey • jam • juice • arts & crafts • bread • vegetables • potted herbs •

www.leucadiafarmersmarket.com

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Spring Events

BY ERIN JACKSON Vegans (and the vegan-curious) are invited to learn about the vegan lifestyle at the San Diego Vegan Festival on April 5.

Organized by Vegan in San Diego, the event at Waterfront Park features food, drinks, goods, and more.

The New Orleans-themed Gator By The Bay festival brings bon temps to Spanish Landing Park May 7–10 with nonstop music, cooking demos, and Southern cuisine—including 10,000 pounds of live crawfish trucked in from Louisiana. » gatorbythebay.com

Treat your sweet tooth to baked goods by local pastry chefs at the Friendly Feast Bake Sale on April 19 at Herb & Eatery. Proceeds from the sugar-coated fundraiser benefits the Monarch School.

Learn how to prepare nourishing plantbased dishes at Bastyr University Clinic’s Vegan BBQ Cooking Class on May 12. Featured dishes include avocado potato salad and barbecued portobello mushrooms. Gluten-free versions of all recipes are available when requested in advance.

» friendlyfeast.org

» bastyrclinic.org

Head to City Farmers Nursery on April 25 to check out Art in the Garden. Explore the serene nursery during peak bloom season with local artists showcasing unique creations.

Discover dozens of local varietals, mingle with wine makers, and learn about the craft at San Diego County Vintners Association’s 2020 Wine Festival on May 18 at Rancho Bernardo Winery.

» cityfarmersnursery.com

» sandiegowineries.org

» veganinsandiego.com

Del Mar Summer Solstice returns to Powerhouse Park on June 18, with tasty bites from area restaurants, Californiamade beverages, and local bands. » visitdelmarvillage.com The Ocean Beach Street Fair and Chili Cook-Off celebrates its 40th anniversary on June 27. In addition to the chili competition, there’s live music on four stages, a beachside beer garden, local art, and a fun zone for kids. » oceanbeachsandiego.com There's more to do on our calendar at ediblesandiego.com/event-list.

Seasonal, small batch gelato crafted with love.

Supporting our local farmers.

122 South Kalmia, Escondido • escogelato.com

Helping home gardeners and landscape professionals since 1952.

ESCONDIDO • ENCINITAS • FALLBROOK • VALLEY CENTER

grangettos.com

KELLY BONE

Espresso • Gelato • Panini

Your resource for organics TOOLS • IRRIGATION • GARDEN SUPPLIES

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In Season

Asian Pears

Here’s What Spring Will Bring

Asian pears are perfectly sweet, pale yellow fruits with a crisp texture. High in fiber and low in calories, they contain micronutrients that are important for bone, blood, and cardiovascular health. While they’re delicious to eat as is, they make a great addition to a stir-fry or salad.

BY CHRISTINA K ANTZAVALOS I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y L U L U Y U E M I N G Q U

Avocados Choosing to eat locally grown, seasonal produce benefits your body, community, and our planet. In addition, nutrient profiles are at their highest levels and flavors are best at peak freshness.

Seasonal produce is also more abundant and usually cheaper than out-of-season fruit and veg, making it ideal for stocking up and preserving.

Apricots Asian pears Asparagus Avocados Basil Beets Black-eyed peas Broccoli Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Celery Chard Cherries Citrus Collards Corn Cucumbers Eggplant Figs Green beans Green peas

LOCAL GROWER Jacy Organic Farm, available at San Diego farmers’ markets

San Diego (Fallbrook) is the Avocado Capital of the World, and we grow seven different varieties. It’s the California-native Hass variety, however, that accounts for 95% of the crop volume. The green, pear-shaped superfood is loaded with healthy monounsaturated fat, fiber, and antioxidants and contains more potassium than a banana. The most San Diego way to enjoy an avocado would be in guacamole, or smeared on toast with sea salt and chile flakes.

LOCAL GROWER Stehly Farms, available at Stehly Farms Market

Kale Kohlrabi Lettuce Medjool dates Mushrooms Mustard Nectarines Okra Onions Passion fruit Peaches Plums Potatoes Raspberries Scallions Spinach Strawberries Summer squash Tomatoes Turnips

Beets Full of vitamin C, fiber, folate, and other vitamins and nutrients, beets are helpful for digestion, inflammation, blood pressure, brain health, and more. Buy a bunch and use the leaves as a spinach substitute in a frittata. The root vegetable is often a beautiful deep red or orange, which makes it excellent for juicing, or try roasting with olive oil, salt, and pepper.

LOCAL GROWER Maciel Family Organic Farm, available at San Diego farmers’ markets

Medjool Dates Nearby Coachella Valley, also known as the American Sahara, is recognized as the Date Capital of the World. The hot, arid desert and deep aquifers make for the perfect growing environment for these stone fruits. The Medjool variety of dates are darker, larger, and have a more caramel-like taste compared to others. Rich in fiber, antioxidants, and essential vitamins and nutrients, dates are a fantastic natural, low-glycemic sweetener. Eat them raw, or stuff them with your favorite nut or seed butter.

LOCAL GROWER Sun Date USA, available at Stehly Farms Market

Broccoli Leaves After eating broccoli crowns, you can munch on their often overlooked leaves, a nutritious and delectable part of the plant. Just two ounces provide a daily dose of both vitamins C and A. Broccoli leaves have a milder taste than florets and are suitable for smoothies, sautéing with garlic, or oven roasting into chips.

LOCAL GROWER Sage Mountain Organic Farm, available at San Diego farmers’ markets and local grocers

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Satisfying Tastes for Better Health

BY FELICIA CAMPBELL AND MARIA HESSE P H OTO G R A P H S BY O L I V I A H AYO

“Nature is the best guide for healthy eating,” says Lan Thai

If finding well-balanced flavors in our meals is the key to healthy eating, sign us up. At Enclave, simple ingredients like this local caught mahi-mahi from Pacific Horizon Fishing are paired with green garlic and Fioretto cauliflower from Chino Farm. It's dynamically delicious in under 30 minutes and a mere sample of why the Food As Medicine (FAM) coalition is quickly growing a fan base at the fast-casual dining concept located inside Juneshine Ranch. Find the recipe on page 14.

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(a.k.a. Chef Lando), the owner and head chef of Enclave Adventurous Superfood located in Scripps Ranch. With staffed nutritionists and specialized meal delivery plans, the restaurant offers food as natural, delicious medicine. “Just look at fruit. You know when it’s in season because it tastes amazing and makes you feel amazing. Is there anything more seasonal than citrus and radicchio in winter? And those ingredients have been shown to boost your immune system,” Thai says.

Only recently has food as medicine become a more mainstream approach in the West, but the importance of balance has been a vital part of wellness in the East for thousands of years.

“My parents were refugees from Vietnam, and before they came here, they lived off the land. We grew or raised everything we ate, and everything was seasonal," Thai explains. "They didn’t know the science behind why they were doing it, but the knowledge was passed down to help them survive.”

The idea of balance is key to Thai’s philosophy. “Everyone now knows we should ‘eat the rainbow’ to make sure we are getting the right variety of nutrients, but I believe we need to taste it, too.”

Where colors offer visual cues as to whether or not your diet is balanced, Thai believes that the five flavor components tell us even more about what we might be missing or eating too much of.

“The five flavors are bitter, sweet, salty, sour, and umami, right? If you are eating a slice of pizza, you’re getting salt and umami, but nothing else. If you eat ice cream, you’re just getting sweet. A balanced meal should incorporate all five. Nature is the perfect guide,” says Thai.

| EATI NG WE L L

Thai puts this philosophy into practice with her lemongrass chicken. “This is a very savory, umami chicken,” she says, as she sautés kaffir lime, chile, turmeric, ginger, and sweet onion in a non-GMO rice bran oil. “Topping it with a citrus beet slaw with jalapeño and mint brings in the sweet and tart, and a little bitterness comes from the kale. The surprise of the tart flavor keeps you interested, and you’ll want to eat more.”

As we move into the bounty of spring, it’s easier than ever to build meals with a perfect balance of colors, textures, and flavors.

“I love green garlic and this is the only time it’s in season,” says Thai. “That and fruit. Fresh berries—I just eat them. I don’t like to mess with nature too much. For the garlic, I just grill it with olive oil and put it on fish.”

Fresh herbs provide an opportunity to add a layer of complexity and balance to the base of the five flavor elements.

“Spring is a transitional period; we can still borrow the end-of-season citrus and marry it with all the things coming out of hibernation.

Beets grow through winter, but spring is when they are at peak flavor. Same with mint and young garlic and other fresh herbs. We are also coming out of the cold, ready to jump-start into a new season.”

Too salty? Try adding plain rice or another starch. Balance bitter flavors with sweet or tart or salty ingredients. That balance will make you feel satisfied. If you’ve done all that and still feel like your dish is missing something, it’s probably fresh herbs.

“Vietnamese cuisine is all about balance, even balance in terms of temperature,” she says.

“That lettuce next to your spring roll? Those herbs on your pho? They’re not a garnish! Eat them!”

Top: Chef Lando beams before colorful fermentation jars that are in constant rotation at the storefront, along with trays of microgreens regularly replenished by Lath House Gardens. Bottom: This hearty lemongrass chicken bowl hits the tasting notes for savory umami, tart and tangy sours, and gingery sweetness.

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The traits of beauty and flavor are apparent in the purposefully sourced ingredients of every dish. The beets are from Sage Hill Ranch Gardens in Escondido. The chicken is supplied by Pasturebird, known for producing high-quality birds through regenerative agricultural practices. Located about an hour north of the restaurant in Riverside County, it's one of the largest pastured poultry producers in the world. Thai is also particular about using pink Himalayan salt and high-quality cooking oils and keeps Red Boat fish sauce close to her heart.

Mahi-Mahi with Green Garlic and Fioretto Cauliflower SERVES 4 – 6 Salt and pepper to taste 1 ½ pounds mahi-mahi filleted into four 6-ounce portions 4–5 tablespoons avocado oil, divided 2 cups minced green garlic 1 pound Fioretto cauliflower Salt and pepper both sides of each mahimahi fillet.

Heat a 9” cast-iron skillet over mediumhigh heat and add 1 tablespoon avocado oil. Sauté green garlic with a pinch of salt, stirring occasionally until edges of the green garlic start to brown. Remove from pan and set aside.

Keep the skillet hot and add 1 to 2 tablespoons avocado oil and trimmed pieces of Fioretto cauliflower. Sear until each side is charred, 1 to 3 minutes per side, then top with salt.

Continue to keep the skillet hot and well coated with avocado oil. Add mahi-mahi fillets and quickly sear until outsides are crispy and the center is nearly cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Set aside to rest, up to 5 minutes before serving.

To serve, plate Fioretto cauliflower and top with mahi-mahi and sautéed green garlic.

Out of Season: Try swapping minced leeks for green garlic, and any vegetable seared in substitution for Fioretto cauliflower.

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L e m o n g r a s s C h i c ke n w i t h B e e t S l a w a n d Tu r m e r i c Ginger Rice SERVES 4 – 6

Tu r m e r i c - G i n ge r R i c e 2 cups sprouted brown rice 2 teaspoons ground turmeric 1 tablespoon thinly sliced fresh ginger 3 ½ cups water

B e e t S l aw ¼ cup Champagne vinegar ¾ cup orange juice 2 cups julienned raw beets 1 cup thinly sliced red onion ½ cup thinly sliced red cabbage Zest of 1 orange Fresh mint leaves

L e m o n g r a s s C h i c ke n 2 stalks lemongrass 2 tablespoons avocado oil ½ cup minced sweet onion 1 tablespoon minced shallot 1 small clove garlic, minced 1–2 red bird's eye chiles, thinly sliced 4–6 kaffir lime leaves, ribs removed and leaves cut into a chiffonade 1 ½ tablespoons fish sauce, preferably Red Boat 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs sliced into 1” strips Orange zest, mint leaves, and thinly sliced purple daikon for garnish Make the turmeric rice: Rinse uncooked

sprouted brown rice in cool water. Mix rice with turmeric, ginger, and water.

Follow rice cooker or pressure cooker instructions to cook, or use a mediumsized pot and bring water to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and cover with a lid; cook for 30 minutes. Remove from heat and let rest for 10 minutes before fluffing with a fork.

While rice is cooking, make the beet slaw.

Whisk together vinegar and orange juice.

Toss beets, red onion, and cabbage with dressing. Garnish with orange zest and torn mint leaves. Chill for 15 to 30 minutes while cooking the chicken.

Prepare the chicken: Remove outer green leaves of lemongrass to reveal the light yellow and more tender part of the stalk.

Trim the bottom 1 to 2 inches to remove the bulb and the woodier green top of the stalk and reserve for another use in a broth. Thinly slice the yellow part and finely chop or blitz in a food processor.

Heat a 9” cast-iron skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add oil to coat the pan, followed by shallot, sweet onion, and lemongrass and sautè for 2 minutes. Add garlic, chiles, and kaffir lime leaves and continue to sauté until onions are a light golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add chicken and fish sauce and continue to stir and sauté until chicken is done, 4 to 5 minutes.

To serve, place a healthy scoop of rice on a plate and top with lemongrass chicken and a serving of beet slaw on the side.

Garnish with orange zest, mint, and sliced daikon.

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Five Ways to Eat More Lemongrass The rich, lemony flavor of lemongrass emerged early in Sri Lankan and South Indian cuisines before spreading across Asia and beyond, and the holistic properties of this versatile herb has us desperate to find more uses for it. The plant’s tropical origins make it drought-friendly to grow for local gardeners, and its mild astringent properties are antibacterial.

Te a Bring 1 cup of water to a boil and steep 1- to 2-inch pieces of lemongrass for 5 minutes. Lemongrass tea is anti-inflammatory and said to relieve symptoms like pain, bloating, and anxiety. It also reduces cholesterol while improving digestion and oral health.

Mocktails and Cocktails Combine 1 cup of water, 1 cup of organic sugar, and 2 stalks of lemongrass cut into 2-inch pieces in a small saucepan. Simmer for 10 minutes, stirring to dissolve sugar. Remove from heat, strain, and reserve a few pieces of lemongrass to store with the syrup in a jar once cooled. Try the lemongrass syrup mixed with soda water—add a shot of gin or vodka for extra-refreshing fun.

Enriched Broths and Stocks Use the green parts of the lemongrass stalk to brighten broths and stocks as bases for Asian-inspired dishes and soups, like in coconutbased curries or a simple pho dinner.

Marinade or Dipping Sauce Make a marinade or dipping sauce by whisking together 1 tablespoon of avocado oil, 2 tablespoons of coconut aminos, 2 tablespoons of finely chopped lemongrass, 1 tablespoon of minced ginger, 1 tablespoon of maple syrup, and a crushed clove of garlic. Marinate slices of superfirm tofu for 15 to 30 minutes before baking on a parchment-lined sheet at 400° for 25 minutes until edges are crispy. Serve the tofu on top of rice with fresh leafy greens and a drizzle of hot sauce for a quick savory meal.

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Herbs to Contain Yourself

BY NAN STERMAN

Have you seen inspirational photos of beautiful kitchens with pots of herbs in the windowsill? Cute pots overflow with basil, rosemary, or dill—and are totally fake. Herbs don’t grow that way, a lesson you learn quickly if you try to imitate those images in your own kitchen. Lucky for you, here in Southern California we grow many kinds of herbs, most of which do very well in pots. But the path to success is very different from what you see in those hyper-styled spreads.

The first lesson of growing herbs in pots is to match the pots to the size of the mature plants, and that means using big pots. Did you know that upright rosemary planted in the ground grows to a five- or six-foot-tall shrub, and prostrate rosemary makes an eight-foot-wide groundcover? So, growing these plants in pots requires big pots that are at least 30 inches tall and wide.

If you don’t have room for pots that large, choose a smaller herb variety, like Chef’s Choice® rosemary from the Sunset Western Garden Collection. In my garden, this beautiful blue bloomer grows happily in a pot 18 inches tall and wide. Set the pot outside in full sun and fill with cactus and succulent mix (this Mediterranean climate native needs good drainage).

In just a short time, its branches will cascade over the sides of the pot. Branches are clothed in deep green, needlelike leaves filled with aromatic, resinous oils. To harvest year-round, snip off a short section of branch and strip off the needles.

Oregano is another easy-to-grow perennial herb, but one that grows low and wide. A ceramic bowl

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or cylinder at least eight inches tall and 18 inches across makes an excellent planter for oregano. Place the container outside in full sun, fill with cactus and succulent mix for good drainage, and plant. Use the same approach for oregano relatives marjoram and thyme. Snip off branches and strip the leaves off to harvest year-round.

Bay is one of my favorite culinary herbs. I was very surprised when the first bay tree I planted grew 30 feet tall and 20 feet wide! That taught me to grow bay in large pots rather than in the ground. Choose an upright cone, square, or rectangular pot at least 30 inches tall with an inner diameter of 18 inches at the top. Bigger is better since pot size limits plant size. Place the pot outside in full sun, filtered light, or part shade. Fill with a good-quality potting soil. To harvest, pick as many leaves as you need and use them right away. There’s nothing like marinara sauce made with fresh bay leaves!

Basil is an annual herb that grows only in warm months. A pot 20 inches tall and wide is big enough for no more than two basil plants. Don’t overplant.

Set the pot in full sun outside and fill with goodquality potting mix high in organic matter. Start basil seeds in late March, or plant seedlings starting in April. Keep the soil moist at all times. Pinch off leaves and stems to harvest.

Note: Every pot must have at least one half-inch diameter drainage hole in the bottom. To keep potting soil from washing out and bugs from crawling in, cover the hole with a square of window screen before you fill the pot with potting mix.

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Mighty Micros

BY PAUL HORMICK PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEXANDRA RAE DANELL

Starting in the mid-1980s, colorful, often crunchy, and tasty microgreens began showing up on dishes and in salads at some of our finer restaurants. These very young beets, radishes, and other vegetables—called microgreens—have also made their way onto sandwiches, into home cooking, and have become prized for their nutritional value.

Many diners confuse microgreens with sprouts, which are harvested just past germination.

Microgreens are more developed; generally one to three inches long, they’re ready to eat when the cotyledons (seed leaves) are fully developed but before the adult leaves have developed fully.

Radish microgreens are subtler and less pungent than adult radishes. The same can be said of onion microgreens, which have a bit of a nutty flavor that is a cross between an adult onion and a nigella seed. Kale microgreens have a lighter, sweeter taste than full-grown kale.

Chef Jana McMahon is the director of culinary at the Training, Education, and Resource Institute (TERi), a nonprofit that aids individuals with autism and other developmental disabilities. She says, “When you’re adding microgreens, you have to look at the dish.” For example, for a risotto dish you might use purple basil microgreens “to visually complement the dish and complement the flavor She believes that micros are often an afterthought, carelessly added to a dish. “For some people, microgreens have become what parsley was in the

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‘80s,” she says.

Robin Kanzius of Fred’s Urban Farm encourages people to be creative with their microgreens and has found ways to enjoy them that might surprise even those who have appreciated micros for years. “We eat them as a salad, a full salad of microgreens. And tacos! Tacos are great with microgreens,” she says. “It’s nice to sprinkle microgreens on pizza. And on soups— they add crunchiness to soups.”

The Microgreen Farms Possibly the first farm to produce microgreens on a commercial scale in San Diego County was Sun Grown Organics. When Robin Taylor took over the operation of Sun Grown from his father in 1983, the farm grew only sprouts. Within a year Taylor expanded the farm to include microgreens.

“We could actually supply more products that way,” he says. Among their first microgreen crops were sunflowers and peas.

On a visit to the Sun Grown farm, I park next to a tractor with a semi-trailer, indicative of the major grocery stores that the family-operated farm supplies, such as Whole Foods and Sprouts.

Although Sun Grown is a large-scale commercial producer, the farm is only five acres, which is considered small by agricultural standards. “And production in the greenhouse is 80,000 square feet,” Taylor says.

Immediately behind the main processing building are a half dozen greenhouses. Stepping inside the first one, there are rows of tables, all covered with square seedling trays. This greenhouse has micros of sunflowers and onions in various stages of development. Taylor displays a freshly planted container in which sunflower seeds completely cover the substrate. “We lay down a bed of compost, which we produce here, and add the seeds,” he says. Production is year-round, with greens harvested in seven days during summer and taking as long as 16 days during winter. Once the greens are ready to harvest, the roots are cut off; the greens are then cleaned, packed, and shipped.

In smaller greenhouses on the farm, the seeds are distributed on the ground in a bed of compost, a simpler method than growing in trays.

San Diego County has a number of other commercial microgreens producers, all serving to fill a number of culinary niches. A newcomer to growing microgreens is Fred’s Urban Farm.

“We started two and a half years ago. We were looking for a way for my sister to work at home,” says Mike Suter, who, with his sister Robin Kanzius, manages Fred’s Urban Farm. “We started brainstorming ideas to start a business without a whole lot of infrastructure.” The farm was also inspired by a vacation in Washington State where the two enjoyed microgreens. Fred’s Urban Farm delivers to local restaurants, and also delivers fresh microgreens to local household subscribers. Aside

| GROWI NG GOOD

their edible flowers are lavender, basil, and mint blossoms.

from their stands at the La Mesa farmers’ market on Fridays and the La Jolla farmers’ market on Sundays, they maintain a microgreen “ATM” at their farm in La Mesa.

As part of TERi’s robust agricultural program, McMahon worked on developing a grant-funded microgreens program with urban organic farmer Andrew Keener. Keener has spent the last five years working out the kinks in the growing system and building three greenhouses that produce chef-specific mixes for more than 25 chefs in North County. “We deliver directly, there is no middleman,” McMahon says, emphasizing the freshness of their products.

When McMahon started working with TERi 10 years ago, they administrated 13 group homes, all of which presented the opportunity to convert their lawns to gardening or small-scale agriculture.

“One had a quarter acre of lawn, and I said, ‘If you’re going to water it, you might as well eat it," McMahon says.

On a different scale, Fresh Origins is perhaps the largest producer of microgreens in San Diego and one of the largest producers in the country, offering an array of 400 products.

Besides microgreens, Fresh Origins produces Tiny Veggies™, those Tom Thumb-sized carrots, radishes, beets, and petite greens, which are stronger-tasting than microgreens. They also grow 60 varieties of edible flowers, including extremely aromatic and flavorful herb flowers. Among

In addition to supplying microgreens to local chefs and selling their micros at farmers’ markets, Quantum Microgreens offers an array of do-it-yourself kits, which feature micros such as arugula, radish, and mustard.

Nutritional Benefits of Microgreens From the beginning, microgreens have been hailed for their nutritional value, yet the peerreviewed science to back up those claims has only recently come out. A 2017 study from the USDA found that most micros contain more nutrients than their full-grown counterparts.

Another research team at the USDA found that microgreens contain as much as five times the vitamins and carotenoids than of adult vegetables. Of the 25 microgreens tested, red cabbage, cilantro, garnet amaranth, and green daikon radish had the highest concentrations of vitamin C, carotenoids, vitamin K, and vitamin E, respectively.

In another study, laboratory mice who were fed micros had lower “bad” cholesterol than mice without microgreens in their diets. Researchers also found that red cabbage microgreens contained more polyphenols and glucosinolates— antioxidants and anti-inflammatories that also lower cholesterol—than mature red cabbage.

The nutritional value of microgreens is part of what motivates Kanzius to produce micros herself.

She is encouraged by research out of the University of Maryland and Johns Hopkins University that shows measurable improvements for people with autism and depression when given a daily diet of microgreens.

Describing some of the findings of the research, she says, “There are the cruciferous vegetables, like broccoli, cauliflower, and kale—they all have a compound, sulforaphane, but it’s mostly in broccoli. It opens up NRF2 pathways, which regulate 200 different genes, ones that work on detoxification and inflammation.” There is no scientific proof, but since Kanzius’s family began incorporating microgreens into their diets, her mother claims that her vision has improved.

Kanzius says, “I love helping people live healthier lives.” s From left: Deeply fuchsia radish sprouts captivate the eye; A peak inside the second greenhouse at TERi, where growing trays in various stages are filled with delicate blankets of cilantro, arugula, carrot, and more; Keener explains the technical aspects of the germination process that take place under the protection of the growing table; Purple basil microgreens; Many of TERi's clients like Aaron enjoy participating in greenhouse activities.

Find more beautiful images from TERi's greenhouses on ediblesandiego.com this spring.

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Value of Food Putting a Price on Farming

BY THEODORE R. NIEKRAS

S

tephen Clark wanted to “do the city thing,” he tells me on a rainy day at his family farm in Escondido. Presently, Clark is the fourthgeneration market manager for JD Organics, one of the oldest organic farms in San Diego County. They’re doing well (finally profitable and in 20 farmers’ markets), and although there’s some anxiety about labor and land, the immediate future looks bright for them.

Clark wanted to give it all up.

But that wasn’t what happened. He realized he loathed his boss, loathed the illusion of a luxurious lifestyle, and loathed making money for the machine.

“It got worse and worse, but then I came back and fell in love with everything that was happening out here. It seemed like every week customers would tell us how much they relied on us. I thought, OK, it’s done for me. I need to do this.”

Nan Sterman, host and coproducer of A Growing Passion on PBS, has her finger on the pulse of our food sector. She’s proud of Southern California’s farm scene. To her, nowhere else in the country has the variety and quality of produce that we come across on a daily basis. At present, the county is home to 5,700 farms, 69% of which are under 10 acres (Clark’s is 80). Although the agricultural industry ranks 12th largest in the state, it’s the fifth largest contributor to our economy, employing over 12,300 workers and impacting the economy to the tune of $3 billion dollars.

With around 360 organic producers producing 160 crops, and 400 different varieties, San Diego County is first in the nation for organic farms, and we all benefit from this extremely vibrant and productive farming sector— especially for how urban our region is.

Sterman worries this will all collapse because there aren’t many Stephen Clarks left. First and foremost on her list of concerns is the rapidly

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A dreamy sampling of what comes with a CSA subscription at W.D. Dickinson Farm.

aging farming demographic. “The average age is skewing,” she says. “So, what does that mean for our future? I’m struggling to think of maybe two farmers I know under 80.”

Simply put, young farmers aren’t replacing older ones. Our food future, in other words, is in peril. But why?

According to the California Young Farmers Report, there’s a host of reasons for this, from predatory capital-backed companies like Amazon to residential and urban encroachment, water cost, myopic and often baffling regulation, and structural racism.

Compensation, perceived and real, is the chief reason, however, because small farm revenues are not keeping up with the skyrocketing costs of operations.

The common narrative is that local produce at farmers’ markets and grocers is more expensive and that farming doesn’t pay—but is this true?

This is all a mechanism of price, quality, and convenience in order to affect demand, growth, and profit. The machine rarely accounts for what’s most important, because those things are intrinsic and not easily quantifiable.

If we were to value the intrinsic and tertiary benefits that the money machine rarely does willingly, would that change our habits?

Countless studies show us that small farms, local markets, local businesses, and strong social relationships not only contribute significantly more to the local economy than chain and

big-box competitors (often by a factor of more than double according to one recent UC Davis study), but they also increase diversity, quality of life, health, and even mood. Working in the dirt does the same. What’s that worth?

“New farmers only look at paychecks,” Stepheni Norton of W.D. Dickinson farm in National City explains. “But do they look at the total quality of life?... If you farm your land, gas (expenses) drop. Groceries are cut in half.

Working outside in the dirt is amazing for your health.”

The outdoor, mission-oriented lifestyle of farming is also a perfect fit for veterans. As a previously deployed veteran with PTSD and Lyme disease, Norton's story is remarkable.

Farming practically saved her life.

“If it wasn’t for the farm, mentally I’d be dead by now,” Norton says. She’s helping to spread that awareness with classes, and thankfully, other veterans are noticing her success and becoming interested.

Still, is this all enough?

It won't be until we examine and change the stories we tell ourselves about money and value, noting the worth of intrinsic benefits as we would price and convenience. It might surprise you to know I didn’t frequent my local market before starting research on this story. The more I examined my beliefs and the unquantifiable benefits of supporting local—the more I recognized like Clark and Norton—what I actually value. s

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“In middle school, people would say I’m just a farmer, called us poor, made fun of us for it. I wanted that big city life. I got an opportunity to sell cars and was like, this is it, I’m going to make a lot of money—farming’s done,” he relates, shifting his Tacoma to a lower gear.

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Locals Only A Taste of Mesopotamia in El Cajon Valley

BY FELICIA CAMPBELL P H OTO G R A P H S BY O L I V I A H AYO

T

wo women expertly stretch rounds of bread dough over a domed cushion before slapping them onto the scorching interior wall of a tanoor oven. The bread puffs and chars for a few moments before it’s hooked and tossed onto a platter. Across the kitchen, a butcher breaks down lamb and beef into cubes for skewering, throwing larger pieces into a mincer to make ground meat kebabs known in Iran as koobideh, in Turkey as kofte, and in Iraq simply as kebab. In Arabic, keba means “to turn,” which is exactly what the men working the grill do once the kebab has passed to them from the hands of another cook expertly working baseball-sized portions onto flat skewers.

Flames leap and smoke perfumes the air as fat drips from the meat onto the charcoal below.

Rows of skewered tomatoes, onions, and chiles blister alongside. The final step in this wellpracticed dance is the placement of the kebab and vegetables on a freshly baked round of tanoor bread.

Azad works the front counter, and his bright eyes oversee the action. The moment the kebabs hit the plate, he scoops it up and passes it to Najla, who delivers the feast to a waiting table.

Her smile is well known to diners at Saray, where she has worked since the original Turkish owners opened shop at the far end of East Main Street and Jamacha.

“I’ve been in El Cajon more than 20 years now,” she says, sharing that she is originally from Nasiriyah in Southern Iraq, “on the border with Iran.” When asked if El Cajon now feels like home, she places a hand on her royal blue hijabcovered head. “Oh yes, of course! When I go back to Iraq, it has changed so much I don’t recognize it.”

The manager, John, originally from Baghdad, has lived in El Cajon since the 1970s and has witnessed the East County city completely

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transform. “This street,” he says gesturing towards Jamacha Road, “used to have maybe one car per hour. Now look at it! There must be 200 cars passing each hour.”

Over the last seven years, the shop has amicably changed hands several times, passing to Iranian owners (Azad’s brother), and, most recently, to two Iraqi business partners, Mumtaz Malan and Ari Segman. The newest owners can often be found alongside their staff, cutting lamb and chicken and mincing beef for their signature grilled meats.

Places like Saray exemplify the way varied regional flavors can harmonize rather than clash.

The diverse staff are reflected in utterly perfect mixed grill combination platters. Dips include the usual suspects, like smoky baba ghanoush (also called moutabal), and hummus so tahini-rich it’s as nutty as peanut butter—and a dish you won’t find anywhere else.

Azad explains that their signature spicy eggplant dip is a bit of a hybrid created by an Egyptian chef that worked with the original Turkish owners.

Loosely based on a garlicky Iranian roasted eggplant dish called mirza ghasemi, this version packs plenty of extra spice from black pepper, chile, and a tangy hit of pomegranate. It is the superb prelude to the shop’s meltingly tender Iraqi minced meat kebabs.

Saray’s recently scaled-down menu, which used to sprawl with Iranian, Turkish, and Pan-Middle Eastern delicacies, now focuses on Iraqi essentials: fresh tanoor bread, dips, grilled meats, and a pickled vegetable bar where, alongside fresh herbs and pickled radishes and beets, toum, a distinctly Iraqi garlic sauce, can be found.

“The Jewish traders brought amba back from India,” John explains, pointing to a bright orange savory mango chutney. “They carried it back in 100-kilogram jugs. As a boy, we used to buy amba

and tomato sandwiches on the street for around 10 cents,” he shakes his head. “We cried when the Jews were kicked out of Iraq.”

El Cajon is home to the second largest Iraqi community in the country, many of whom are Chaldean Catholics. When asked if he is Chaldean, John waves his hand. “This is a religion, not a place. We are all Iraqi, we are all human, we are all the same. Here we have Syrian, Iraqi, Iranian, Kurdish, Christian, Turkish, Muslim.” He smiles as he looks around the bustling kitchen.

The area has drawn immigrants from across the Middle East and Central Asia who enjoy the sense of community, access to traditional ingredients, and events from church and mosque services to employment workshops carried out in Arabic. The tapestry of influence is reflected on menus that go far beyond generic Mediteranean dishes.

A dazzling array of regional Middle Eastern

| FE ATURE

The Chaldean cathedral, a diner at Al A zayem Restaurant, and kebabs with fresh tanoor bread at Saray Restaurant .

foods are available in this East County hamlet with dishes like mandi from the Arabian Gulf, which can be found at Zarzour restaurant on the western end of Main Street. The red-skinned, roasted chicken is served atop a mountain of spiced rice, the same way it’s found in Yemen and Saudi Arabia. The newest immigrants from Syria have already begun to leave their mark on the culinary landscape, opening restaurants like Mal al Shams farther down Main Street where guests enjoy specialties like shawarma and kibbeh mashwiyeh, a grilled version of the more commonly fried bulgur patties stuffed with minced lamb and pine nuts.

Thousands of Iraqi refugees came to El Cajon to escape persecution under Saddam Hussein, and then again to escape the fallout from the Iraq war in 2003. But it's the the flavors of Iraq that remain the most prominent.

At Shakirah Pastry, a young woman’s eyes light up when asked about the national cookie of Iraq.

“You know kleicha?” she asks excitedly. She begins handing out small squares filled with date paste and nigella seeds and little sesame-seeded rings filled with mashed dates. They are just a couple of the myriad sweets that Majid Suleman and his crew at Shakirah make fresh each day.

Another customer bites into a cookie. “They’re the best in town, I’m tellin’ ya,” she says. “I’ve lived here all my life, and this is the best bakery anywhere.”

Under the watchful eyes of the Virgin Mary, the pastry case displays rows upon rows of pistachio baklava in various shapes and sizes, along with vermicelli and syrup-topped cheese kunafeh, rose-scented lubiya “lady fingers,” and other PanArabian sweets.

Originally from Mosul in northern Iraq, Majid and his wife opened the shop nearly 20 years ago when they moved to El Cajon from Baghdad.

“They have something like this in Syria and Iran, but it is originally Iraqi,” Majid says of the popular fried sweet zalabia, which can be found all over the region, from Yemen to Lebanon. He adds rosewater to a yeasty, wet mixture. “You can only make it from experience. The dough, sometimes it does what it wants.” He laughs, ladling the mixture into a piping can and releasing curls into hot oil where it puffs into cursive rounds.

He quickly scoops them up and submerges the pastries into a simple syrup. He looks at them and shakes his head. “Not yet.” He adds a little flour to the mixture. “Everything here is made from scratch. We want it to be perfect.”

Across the street, a family from Baghdad opened Al Azayem Restaurant six years ago. The restaurant offers classic Iraqi dishes like cream chicken chop (a breaded chicken cutlet), mixed grill, makhlama, a turmeric-laced minced meat and egg breakfast, and tomato-rich kubba soup

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crowned with softball-sized, meat-stuffed bulgur rounds. They also offer masgouf, a butterflied, grilled river fish that is considered the national dish of Iraq. “It takes an hour to cook, so it's better to call ahead for masgouf or for our special ricestuffed chicken,” Mazin, the owner’s son, suggests.

Down the block, Valley Foods is a sprawling, modern grocery store where the staff calls out cheerfully to the customers they know by name.

At the deli counter, fresh kebabs sizzle and slivers of shawarma fall from a hot spit. An army of bakers churn out a steady supply of freshly baked tanoor and fluffy, diamond-shaped samoon breads.

The aisles are lined with Iraqi specialities like housemade and bottled amba, basturma dried beef sausage, apricot leather, and an entire refrigerator case of different types of hummus.

In the produce section, mashed date paste is labeled kleicha, just like the cookie. The produce manager extolls the virtues of both. “Dates are so good for your health,” he says. “Even diabetics can eat them. A man should have 14 pieces each day, not more than that,” he continues. “For a woman, seven pieces, maximum.”

In El Cajon, it’s the little things that make it feel familiar to those who have spent time in the Middle East. Hospitality is the supreme cultural value, one that cuts across borders and religions.

Here, people make time to talk to one another with the warmth and exuberance the region is known for.

Back in the Saray dining room, large urns of cardamom-scented tea and housemade lentil soup are complimentary for patrons as a small gesture of generosity. These sentiments draw in many guests for a glimpse of the homelands they left behind.

After setting down a plate, John takes a moment to reminisce. His blue eyes sparkle as he speaks about the foods of his childhood, when he enjoyed freshly caught masgouf on the banks of the Tigris River. “They make a ring of fire and put the fish on stakes around the circle. Then, they pull them off and...” he smacks the back of his hand into his palm, “they sear the back of the fish so the skin is crispy. That is masgouf.”

In El Cajon, the specialty is made using more readily available fish like carp and tilapia, rather than Iraqi river fish. They are cooked not in a ring of fire, but in a tanoor oven at nearby Nahrain Fish & Chicken Grill on East Main Street. Like everything in El Cajon, it is an adaptation of the life and flavors left behind.

I ask him how similar it was to the masgouf he remembered. He smiles and shrugs. “Close enough.” s From top left: Freshly made zalabia at Shakira Pastry; a baker at Shakira Pastry; trays of baklava; pickled beets and turnips at Saray Restaurant; a plate of fresh vegetables and pickles at Al Azayem Restaurant.

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MESOPOTAMIAN FAVORITES ON MAIN STREET IN EL CAJON In Greek, Mesopotamia means “the land between the rivers,” a reference to the Tigris and Euphrates, which flow through present day Turkey, Syria, and Iraq down to the Arabian Gulf. Also known as the Fertile Crescent, this region was the birthplace of civilization, where the wheel was invented, wine and beer were first brewed (by women!), animals were first domesticated, and agriculture was modernized through irrigation. So, it should come as no surprise that Mesopotamia was also the birthplace of cuisine, as documented in the world’s first cookbook, etched in cuneiform on a clay tablet in 2500 BCE. While there are countless Middle Eastern restaurants to explore throughout El Cajon, you can taste an amazing array of regional Mesopotamian flavors right along Main Street.

Find a few suggestions listed below from east to west.

S A R AY R E S TAU R A N T 123 Jamacha Rd. (and E Main St.)

Mesopotamian mixed grill (Turkish, Iraqi, Kurdish) with perfect Iraqi minced meat kebab, fresh tanoor bread, hummus, moutabal, signature spicy eggplant dip

VA L L E Y F O O D S E L C A J O N

NAHR AIN FISH & CHICKEN GRILL 1183 E Main St.

Iraqi restaurant where the specialty is masgouf

S H A K I R A PA S T RY 1183 E Main St.

Iraqi/ Pan-Arabian bakery where you'll find Iraqi kleicha cookies and baklava

S P E E DY FA L A F E L 1142 E Main St.

Modern Levantine menu featuring regional falafel (Syrian, Iraqi, Lebanese), freshly baked saj and samoon breads, and tepsi baytinijan (Iraqi eggplant casserole)

A L A Z AY E M 550 E Main St.

Iraqi restaurant with traditional favorites like chicken cream chop, masgouf, mixed grill, and kubba soup

MAL AL SHAM 388 E Main St.

Syrian mixed grill, shawarmaThank you, kibbeh mashwiyeh

1275 E Main St.

Z AR ZOUR

Iraqi Market for stockng up on Samoon bread, apricot leather, dates, fresh dips, amba, kebabs, and fish

Arabian gulf & Pan-Arab cuisine. You'll want to try the Mandi.

293 El Cajon Blvd. (and W Main St.)

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| FE ATURE

Hometown Street Foods Bring Comfort and Independence

BY DEBRA BASS PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAUREN DI MATTEO

Julie Lopez was 24 years old and five months pregnant

the first time she was on an airplane. A few classes shy of a university degree, Lopez made the daunting decision to leave El Salvador in 1997. The news that she was expecting wasn’t welcomed by her family or the community. Lopez couldn’t continue her education, and her future prospects of a career and financial sustainability in El Salvador were bleak. She had been studying public relations and she was working at a local television station.

“It hurt to leave,” Lopez says. “I still think that one day I’ll finish my degree.

It’s not too late, right?”

Her father and oldest sister were already settled in San Diego, having emigrated in the 1980s after a brutal civil war that dissolved any family wealth.

Lopez’s sister encouraged her to join them in the United States. At the time it was far easier to secure a visa, so she did.

Lopez worked odd jobs for years as her English skills improved. In 2008 when both she and her mom Lydia Lopez were unemployed at the same time, her mother suggested that they sell pupusas in packs of 10 by a convenience store.

Making her homeland’s native dish to eat and share helped Lopez deal with the homesickness and regret of the life she left behind in El Salvador. Now, making pupusas is how she’s managed to make a life for herself and her family in one of the nation’s most expensive regions.

Pupusas are the national dish of El Salvador, but Honduras has made strong claims to the food item as well. Still, it’s widely believed to have originated

in El Salvador. Warm, chewy, pupusas are griddled corn cakes stuffed with various ingredients—the most popular being bean and cheese.

Formed with corn masa, the dish bears a resemblance to arepas, which originated in the northern region of South America, most notably popular in Colombia and Venezuela.

However, the Salvadoran dish is served with a mandatory side of curtido, a crunchy cabbage relish that’s prepared like a vinegar-based slaw with onion, carrots, spices, and salt. The tangy cabbage mixture is a little like sauerkraut, and traditionally it's accompanied by a simple hot sauce that provides more flavor than heat.

The trick of the pupusa, which Lopez likens to a tortilla pancake, is the way the masa harina (grainy cornmeal flour) is mixed with water and a little salt: The masa must be worked into a dough by hand, not machine, then pupusas are stuffed with the filling and griddled fresh on a hot plancha.

The compact disc is extremely versatile; another common traditional version is called revueltas. The stuffing is a mix of refried beans, cheese, and pork, but vegan options with mushrooms and spinach can be made just as easily.

Although it was never a selling point in El Salvador, Lopez now capitalizes on the fact that the flour is naturally gluten-free. The flour made from corn is also higher in fiber, vitamin A, zinc, and iron than wheat.

“See this? It’s not too smooth, but it has to be very soft, otherwise the pupusas will not be good,” Lopez says, picking up a small mound of wet masa in her fingers from a steel container at her farmers’ market stall. The texture

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| FE ATURE

resembles the consistency of something between tacky bread dough and clay, and perfecting it is an art.

Lopez recalls that at first they gave away more pupusa samples than they sold. It was early for Salvadoran immigrants, and the street food staple commonly found in their homeland was virtually unknown.

Soon enough, Lopez and her mother developed a following and sold the delicious comfort food successfully enough that someone recommended a local program with La Maestra’s Mujeres Emprenadoras (female entrepreneurs) project.

Lopez started attending classes in 2008 to learn the ins and outs of establishing a small business and later received a microloan of $500 to buy a canopy that allowed them to start selling at farmers’ markets.

In 2009, she and her son Chris Lopez, now 22, started working at the North Park farmers’ market.

Chris Lopez is the reason Lopez emigrated and she calls him her little angel. Even as a pre-teen he was helping her with applications and advertising.

Coincidentally, marketing and advertising is his college major in Arizona.

Still, in the beginning, the La Maestra program helped Lopez find a commercial kitchen to work with, fill out reams of technical paperwork, submit tax forms, and develop a business plan.

Now, Lopez and her younger sister Maria Ayla operate the business under the name Pupusas Express at four markets—UC San Diego, Linda Vista, City Heights, and Lane Field Park—and in January they opened a brick-and-mortar shop at 1207 East Main Street in El Cajon.

Lopez and several other female immigrants and refugees were accepted into the Source of Change program at UC San Diego, which helped open doors to other markets. The purpose of the university program initiated by Social Impact and Innovation and the UC San Diego Housing, Dining, and Hospitality program is to ensure that these women, who are often ostracized and exploited, develop a sustainable and dignified means to earn a living. Several food stands established by women from various countries have participated, including other Latin American and African collectives, but Pupusas Express and La Costeñita of Guatemala are the only two currently operating at the weekly market.

Julia Macouzet, a program manager at La Maestra, called Lopez of Pupusas Express a shining example of what hard work and determination can accomplish. Most intrepid entrepreneurs suffer setbacks while navigating linguistic and financial literacy concerns. It is no small feat to develop a menu, negotiate and source ingredients, develop a schedule for food prep, and secure all of the necessary equipment and health licenses.

Ana López of La Costeñita said that she’s currently only at one market—UC San Diego on Tuesdays—but she wants to expand. She’s been operating her stand for two years. Her most popular dish is a small snack food hailing from Guatemala called rellenitos de platano, or simply rellenitos: small stuffed plantains filled with refried beans then fried. It’s an unexpected blend of sweet and savory with a slightly crisp, caramelized exterior.

Domestic violence led López to immigrate to the US 12 years ago. She found the La Maestra program while recuperating from an attack by a supervisor at a previous job. La Maestra’s program deals with many women who have suffered physical and mental abuse, and works to boost their self-esteem and encourage self-sufficiency.

Financial independence is the best means of ending abuse. The program includes microloans, mentoring, peer support, and an education in the ever-important message of self-care and well-being.

The program now includes more than 150 female small business owners including crafters, direct sales, tailors, and only two food vendors.

Macouzet explained that getting vendors into the food business is tough, but there are more women looking to enter the markets specializing in other traditional Latin American street food staples.

Looking around UC San Diego’s weekly market, it’s easy to see why food stands provide an accessible opportunity for new immigrants.

Meal options include Hawaiian doughnuts and poke, East African sambusas (fried dough filled with meat, potatoes, or lentils), Mexican tamales, Jamaican jerk chicken, Brazilian street food, and an only-in-America carb-rich creation of sandwiches stuffed with pasta. When it comes to celebrating differences and international exploration, it seems easiest to do via calories. s

P r e v i o u s p a g e : O n Tu e s d a y s , P u p u s a s E x p r e s s a n d L a C o s t e ñ i t a a r e n e i g h b o r s a t t h e U C S D To w n S q u a r e M a r k e t . F r e s h a g u a f r e s c a s a n d p u p u s a s a r e p r e p a r e d

by Julie Lopez's family while she works at the newly opened s tore in El Cajon.

A na Lóp e z is e ager to in tr o duc e us to L a C os teñi t a's s p e c ial tie s: Enr ollada s ar e the Guatemalan equivalent of enchiladas, and rellenitos are slightly sweet and d o u g h y o n t h e o u t s i d e w i t h s m o o t h b e a n s a t t h e c e n t e r. I t e m s f r o m b o t h m e n u s p a i r w e l l t o g e t h e r.

This page: Julie Lopez prepares an order at her store. The lef t side of the menu of fers an array of traditional Salvadoran items while the right side of fers popular Mexican options. Personal details like framed awards and pic tures of her favorite landmarks in El Salvador share highlight s of the market-to -mor tar journey p o w e r e d b y f a m i l y a n d p u p u s a s . G o c a s u a l , o r d e r a v a r i e t y, p i l e o n t h e c u r t i d o , an d d on' t hoar d the ho t s au c e .

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Discover Local , Award-Winning Wines at Annual San Diego Vintners Wine Festival San Diego County Vintners Association Wine Festival set for Sunday, May 17 from 1 to 4pm at historic Bernardo Winery

By Bonnie Shaw Intimate, local wine festivals are an excellent way to sample wines produced in a specific region, and at a pace that suits true wine enthusiasts. Attendees avoid crowds and long lines, while discovering new, exciting artisan wines. Regional wine festivals also allow for an educational opportunity you just can’t find at larger wine festivals. Typically, it’s the winemaker pouring samples, describing the wine, detailing the grape’s terroir, and taking the time to explain what makes the wine unique.

Each spring, the San Diego County Vintners Association (SDCVA) hosts a wine festival featuring about 25 artisan wineries from around the county. This year, the festival will be held at the Bernardo Winery, the oldest operating winery in San Diego County. Located 25 miles north of downtown San Diego, Bernardo Winery features a charming village atmosphere and a beautiful vintage winery setting to enjoy wine, food, live music, winethemed silent auction and plenty of sunshine.

Ticket prices: Early bird $60 available through May 1; regular ticket price $70 for unlimited wine tasting.

Tickets can be purchased through Brown Paper Tickets online at sdcva2020.bpt.me.

SAN DIEGO COUNTY WINE INDUSTRY PROFILE • • • • • •

142 ACTIVE AND PLANNED WINERIES COUNTY WIDE ECONOMIC IMPACT $58.6 MILLION GENERATES $41,059,126 IN GROSS SALES 3,284 TONS OF WINE GRAPES HARVESTED WITH A PRODUCTION VALUE OF $4,591,032 62 VARIETIES GROWN IN THE REGION TOP FIVE VARIETALS ARE CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SYRAH, MERLOT, SANGIOVESE, AND ZINFANDEL

Experience San Diego Wine Country San Diego County is home to 142 wineries making artisan wines.

Visit SanDiegoWineries.org for a list of top wineries, tasting rooms, interactive map and more.

San Diego—Where California Wine Began . . .

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“Our annual wine festival showcases the delicious wines being produced throughout San Diego County, south of Temecula all the way to the Mexico border,” said SDCVA president Ed Embly, owner of Hungry Hawk Vineyards in Escondido. “It’s the only event of its kind to feature wines exclusively made in San Diego County—many of them award-winning.”

For more information and to purchase tickets, visit sandiegowineries.org.

RIIENDS WIT BE NE FII T TS | | FFR ENDS W ITH B EN EF S

An Abnormal Partnership

BY BETH DEMMON PHOTO GR A PHS BY L AUREN DI M AT TEO

W

hen an organization has two leaders, power struggles aren’t just expected, they’re practically inevitable. But the partnership between Rancho Bernardo restaurant Cork & Craft and adjacent brewery Abnormal Beer Co. has never followed convention.

“Chefs, in general, kind of have an ego,” comments Cork & Craft executive chef Scott Cannon without a trace of irony. “But I like the collaboration we have between us as a team. We're like a family.”

The other patriarch of said family is Abnormal Beer’s head brewer Nyle Molina, who took over for the original brewer Derek Gallanosa in 2017. The potential for clashes between the two heads is mitigated by constant communication, professional respect, extensive event planning throughout the year, and the fact that Molina also has a culinary background.

“I had seven or eight years working in kitchens, [and] I went to culinary school right out of high school, so I understand all the ins and outs of the restaurant,” explains Molina. “It makes it a lot easier to not butt heads.”

Cannon also sees their contrasting personalities as beneficial to the relationship. “We’re completely opposite—I’m serious and he’s outgoing.”

Molina chuckles and agrees: “I’m definitely that easygoing, laissez-faire goofball. But when it comes down to business, I completely flip a switch.”

Years of kitchen training imparted a sense of preparation and organization to Molina. “I think that mentality is a shared thing both of us have, even with my mellow personality. We both have that drive, that hustle. We just want to get stuff done.”

That “stuff” ranges far beyond standard lunch and dinner service. Quarterly beer dinners are meticulously planned far in advance in order to showcase the unique relationship between the sister companies, as well as to provide an opportunity for guest breweries and chefs to mesh their individual ideas into the events.

“All the dinners are 100% planned together,” says Cannon.

Cannon’s vision at Cork & Craft is one of sustainability and seasonality, which, despite being increasingly buzzword-y, is still not the standard for restaurants pursuing the refined comfort food model. Not only is consumer awareness becoming more important in the hospitality industry, it’s also a foundation for Molina to play off of when brewing beers to pair

with Cannon’s dishes. Drinkers and diners want to know where their food and beer comes from, and when both are created and plated just steps away from one another, it’s easy for patrons to enjoy a sense of responsible consumption.

The unusually short distance between the two workspaces means the teams overlap on occasion, a situation both men approach with ease. When the brewery’s canning line needs some extra hands, Cannon jumps in to keep production cranking. Likewise, Molina and his crew have washed dishes, served food, and traded staff when the kitchen needs a boost.

“We definitely help out wherever needed. We’re only a wall away from each other, so it’s natural,” says Molina.

This synergistic setup is part of the reason Molina returned to the hospitality industry after working a long stint in retail post-culinary school.

It’s also what keeps the two leaders in sync while managing their individual roles.

“It’s very special,” says Cannon of their relationship.

Molina echoes in unison: “We’re here for them, and they’re here for us.” s » thecorkandcraft.com SPRING 2020 |

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For the Love of Olives Did you know that California’s olive groves got their start in San Diego?

The first olive trees were planted by Franciscan monks not long after they established Mission San Diego de Alcala. Cuttings from those first trees, that some call the “Madre” trees, were planted in missions all the way north to Monterey. Locals also took cuttings from the Madre trees, and by the early 1900s, San Diego was home to the state’s biggest olive groves. Olive oil from those groves was used by local canneries that processed fish caught by the region’s renowned tuna fleets.

In a new episode of A Growing Passion, “For the Love of Olives,” you’ll see the life cycle of olive trees, from flower to fruit to olive oil. In Ramona, you’ll meet a home grower who planted a small olive orchard after his chaparral-covered property was burnt to ash by a devastating wildfire. Memories of fresh olive oil in his mother’s Middle Eastern kitchen inspired him to plant olive trees, and within a decade, those trees started producing award-winning olive oil.

A twenty-minute drive east of Temecula takes us to the Temecula Olive Oil Company’s main olive orchards, where we tour the groves to see how olives are grown and olive oil is pressed. A Growing Passion host Nan Sterman learns the art of tasting olive oil, including the chemical components that give the best

oils their characteristic flavors.

Throughout the show, you’ll see beautiful olive trees, which are perfectly suited to San Diego’s Mediterranean climate, with its long, hot, sunny summers.

They grow in almost any soils, they aren’t picky. And their water needs are minimal. Pale gray bark covers gnarled trunks and branches covered in deep green leaves with slivery undersides. An olive tree makes a beautiful specimen at home or in an orchard.

“For the Love of Olives” is just one of six new episodes, three arriving this spring, and three in late summer. Later in the season, you’ll meet a famous plant explorer who travels the world in search of succulents to use in breeding and growing new garden plants. We’ll see how scientists at the Salk Institute harness plant characteristics to create new, resilient varieties to support populations into the future. Carbon farming is another topic this season, and one of the most promising ways of battling climate change. To lighten things up, we’ll visit some of Southern California’s most beautiful and notable cultural landscapes, and we’ll learn about growing, cooking, and using herbs.

It’s an eclectic mix of plants, people, and planet­—just the way we like to do it on A Growing Passion.

Watch all new episodes of A Growing Passion at 8:30 pm on KPBS TV in San Diego, beginning April 30, or watch episodes online anytime at agrowingpassion.com. Follow A Growing Passion on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter for a behind-the-scenes look at new episodes and more!

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| STAYCATI ON

Devouring Downtown

BY ERIN JACKSON

W

hen I moved to San Diego in 2010, I was instantly struck by how downtown is a pedestrian’s paradise. The terrain is flat, with uncluttered sidewalks that lead past parks, historic buildings, and vibrant restaurants.

Little Italy is known for its lively dining scene and the bustling farmers’ market. The East Village is downtown’s optimistic upstart, with ambitious residential buildings, pop-up community spaces, and exciting food and drink options. In between are Marina and Core-Columbia, where residents rest and the city’s work gets done. Later this year, Seaport Village 2.0 will take shape. In the meantime, the seawall serves up stellar views of the sunset.

The best way to fully experience downtown is on foot. Park the car and strap on your city legs for an urban adventure.

WHERE TO STAY Accommodations range from budget motels to trendy builds with rooftop pools. The Guild Hotel is a new, centrally located boutique option that once housed the Army-Navy YMCA. Rooms are sparsely decorated with all of the essentials, like sultry showers, comfortable beds, and plush bathrobes, accounted for. Luca, the onsite restaurant, is a worthy choice for Sunday brunch—try the parfait French toast.

WHERE TO EAT

S C O T T M U R P H Y; DY L A N + J E N I ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E G U I L D H O T E L

E A S T V I L L AG E Choose from a dozen different pour-overs—like the East Village, with notes of honey, pecan, and grapefruit—at Achilles Coffee Roasters plus seasonal lattes and breakfast sandwiches served all day. » achillescoffeeroasters.com At Lola 55, chef Drew Bent’s menu of modern tacos is all hits, no fillers.

Try the vegan squash blossom relleno and pork belly al pastor with mesquite pineapple. » lola55.com You & Yours Distilling Co. recently debuted small plates, including crab-stuffed mushrooms and sweet potato empanadas. Check the menu for suggested cocktail pairings. » youandyours.com

L I T T L E I TA LY Arrive early for flaky croissants still warm from the oven at Herb & Eatery. The sun-dappled café offers a comprehensive daytime menu, plus pizza in the evening. Don’t miss the chef ’s pantry and gifts on display. » herbandeatery.com Parakeet Café is a fun pick for a functional beverage and a savory small plate like magic mushroom matcha and eggs Benedict on toast with flavored hollandaise that changes seasonally. » parakeetcafe.com Top down: Renovating the former Army-Navy YMCA building took three years and $80 million, with special attention given to preserving the historic building built in 1925; rooms are are classy and minimally decorated; the dinner menu items are cleverly named, like this dish called beautiful scallop with brown butter risotto and preserved lemon at Luca Restaurant & Bar.

Every Sunday from 10am to 4pm, Lane Field transforms into an international food market with umbrellas and blankets for lounging.

Offerings include Korean BBQ, local shellfish, empanadas, and dessert dumplings. » sandiegofoodmarket.com SPRING 2020 |

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MARINA

Coava Coffee Roasters slings caffeinated beverages in an ecochic space on the ground floor of The Westin. Try the honey latte sweetened with Bee Local Honey Water. » coavacoffee.com In-the-know locals love the $12 burger-and-beer happy hour special at the Lion’s Share, available alongside a smattering of apps and discounted cocktails from 4 to 6pm daily. » lionssharesd.com Animae showcases Asian-inspired plates in a theatrical space. Try the butter dumplings (pictured) with escargot and razor-thin slices of Wagyu carpaccio, the snow pea salad, or malasadas with green curry ice cream. » animaesd.com Budget-friendly AAHARN by Koon Thai specializes in authentic Southeast Asian dishes like beef rendang, khao soi, and nourishing bowls of laksa lemak that deliver layers of flavor. » aaharn.us

P a r k s We L o v e i n the Neighborhood Pantoja Park

West G St., btwn Kettner Blvd. and State St. The oldest park in the city is home to several giant fig trees and pretty palms. Yoga One offers a free yoga class on Saturday mornings.

ner, • Best Chef Win Local organic produce, tà Lo io Accurs meat & seafood Winner • Best Wine List Authentic Italian cuisine orld • 2017 Pasta Wip Winner, Food, wine & spirits Championsh pairing events Accursio Lotà

Quartyard 1301 Market St. Locals (and their dogs) gravitate here for coffee and craft brews.

Colorful murals provide a few fun photo ops.

Patio dining Dog friendly

Park at the Park

840 K St. This grassy oasis is the perfect spot for a coffee break with views of Petco Park.

2820 Roosevelt Road • Liberty Station, Point Loma • 619-270-9670 • solarelounge.com

La Bonne Table VISIT SAN DIEGO WINE COUNTRY

Bon Appetit!

Experience traditional French cuisine in Hillcrest’s most romantic bistro. * Full Bar * Brunch * Reservations Recommended Social Media Icons 2017 Updated

San Diego County is home to 142 wineries making artisan wines— many award-winning.

Explore San Diego wineries and enjoy wine tasting, live music, food trucks, events, and wine sales.

Social MediaSocial Icons Media Icons 2017 Updated

3696 5th Ave San Diego 92103 • labonnetablesd.net

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2017 Updated

San Diego—Where California Wine Began . . .

C H R I S R O V C O S TA

Visit SanDiegoWineries.org for a list of top wineries, tasting rooms, interactive map and more!

| PA R T N E R C O N T E N T

NEIGHBORHOOD DINING GUIDE The Neighborhood Dining Guide recognizes locally owned restaurants passionate about local sourcing and participants in Surfrider Foundation’s Ocean Friendly Restaurant program. OFR’s pledge to uphold specific environmentally-friendly practices.

Enjoy a delicious meal at these exemplary eateries, and tell them Edible San Diego sent you!

NORTH COUNT Y

E SCOGEL ATO 122 South Kalmia St., Escondido 760-745-6500 • escogelato.com Located in the heart of Escondido, EscoGelato is made fresh daily using the highest quality ingredients and fresh fruit sourced from local farmers. The result is a luscious, super-creamy gelato that’s full of flavor. You will taste the difference. In addition to the main event, enjoy a nice selection of paninis, soups, salads, coffee, and tea.

M E A DIOCR IT Y M E A D 1365 Grand Ave. Suite 100, San Marcos 760-651-6323 meadiocritymead.com Meadiocrity Mead crafts the oldest alcohol in the world with a modern San Diego twist at its San Marcos tasting room and production facility. Naturally gluten free and made with raw honey in a variety of flavors, styles, and sweetness levels, Meadiocrity's mead delights all craft drinkers. Meadiocrity sources honey from their own 6+ million bees and other local partner beekeepers to capture the unique aspects of San Diego native and cultivated forage.

MISSION AV E BA R A ND GR IL L 711 Mission Ave., Oceanside 760-637-2222 missionavebarandgrill.com We source products for our cuisine and cocktails from local farms, our beers and wines are exclusively Californian, and we serve a large portfolio of California spirits, especially those distilled in San Diego County.

Chef William Eick is known for his mastery of seasonal, globally inspired New American cuisine, and he brings a fine dining commitment to the highest-quality ingredients and careful attention in crafting casual fare.

100% coal fire oven in North County. We take pride in our local organic ingredients sourced from our local schools and Cyclops Farms all within a mile radius. Our Blue Collar Gourmet menu is lead by Samantha Parker, the first female executive chef in Oceanside offering up several vegetarian and vegan options. The Marketplace & Wine Bar is known for our event hosting with Comedy Tues, Wine/Beer Dinner Pairings, Live Music, DJ Sundays, Wine Vendor Tastings, monthly Art Wall Launches, and more. Join us for a very unique experience in our fine city of Oceanside.

W R ENCH A ND RODEN T SE A BA SSTROPU B 1815 S Coast Hwy., Oceanside 760-271-0531 seabasstropub.com The W&R team strives to provide a unique dining experience that is casual and accessible, exciting, and constantly evolving. We take pride in offering locally and responsibly sourced ingredients, and special care is taken to minimize waste. Executive chef Davin Waite conjurs up a menu relying on the highest quality, chef-selected fish and produce. dinner, and freshly-baked pastries and breads at our Kitchen + Takeaway. We make everything in-house using the best ingredients we can find from local farms. We do office catering and also offer a unique lunch-delivery program for busy individuals at work.

Solare is an authentic Italian restaurant with a special focus on southern Italy and Sicily featuring a menu made with fresh ingredients selected daily. Blending modern and traditional tastes, the results are light and healthy dishes brimming with natural flavors. Complement your meal with one of 2,000 bottles of wine from the cellar or 30 wines by the glass. Solare is committed to serving the cuisine of today, created with all the love and attention to detail from generations past.

UPTOWN

L A JOLL A A .R . VA L EN T IEN 11480 North Torrey Pines Rd. 858-453-4420 lodgetorreypines.com/ar-valentien OFR

L A BON N E TA BL E 3696 Fifth Ave.

The Torrey Pines Lodge’s signature restaurant, A.R. Valentien, highlights regional San Diego cuisine served in an elegant, timbered indoor-outdoor dining room overlooking the 18th hole of Torrey Pines Golf Course. Executive chef Jeff Jackson sources only the best local provisions, and the menu changes frequently based on seasonal fare available.

The restaurant takes its name from a talented early 20th-century California artist whose works are exhibited throughout the restaurant.

619-260-8039 • labonnetablesd.net The Bonne Table means “the good table,” a place to gather and enjoy hearty, flavorful, and beautifully presented food. Our romantic bistro setting offers classic French dishes, weekend brunch, and a full bar. When you walk in, you are treated like family. We want to get to know you and to serve you over and over again.

T HE ROSE W IN E BA R 2219 30th St. 619-281-0718 • therosewinebar.com

CENTRAL SAN DIEGO

Based on the iconic AMP&RSAND campus and former home of San Diego's Union Tribune, Break offers a casual, yet refined, environment where anyone can find sanctuary and nourish themselves with food and drink sourced from an all-star cohort of San Diego’s finest growers and artisans. The cafe offers a rotating menu of seasonal fare and assorted house-made baked goods that will satisfy all dietary regimens.

The Privateer is an independently owned, locally supported, family-operated business touting the largest

Established in 2008 by three families with a long history of fishing in Point Loma, Mitch’s specializes in fresh seafood from the waters off San Diego. Located directly on the city’s working waterfront with a view of the fishing fleet, the focus is on simply prepared, Californiastyle seafood, accompanied by a nice selection of craft beer and wine from San Diego and California.

SOLARE 2820 Roosevelt Rd. 619-270-9670 solarelounge.com

BREAK ALL-DAY CAFE + LOUNGE 350 Camino De La Reina 858-546-2636

PR I VAT E ER COA L FIR E PIZ Z A 1706 S. Coast Hwy., Oceanside 760-453-2500 theprivateercoalfirepizza.com

MITCH’S SEAFOOD 1403 Scott St. 619-222-8787 mitchsseafood.com

The Rose is a womanowned and run neighborhood wine bar and bottle shop dedicated to natural wines with stories to tell about the place and people who make them. The menu showcases a selection of small production wines from around the world, craft beers, along with handmade food sourced from local farms. Bottles purchased at the shop can be enjoyed in-house or taken home. Their legendary wine club boasts a selection of New and Old world style wines, which can be enjoyed at their release parties every second Monday of the month.

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LO CA L ATT RAC TIO NS |

Around the Block Vista

BY KEITH LORD PHOTOGRAPHS BY BHADRI KUBENDRAN I was a teen visiting family friends my first time touring Vista. There was no 78 freeway, just a main road through town with a feed store. My friends’ house was beautiful and home to a massive avocado and citrus orchard. They were from Malta, so we ate amazing food until we were overly plump. I still remember every detail about the glorious Vista setting.

I’ve lived in North County for 16 years, and Vista for three. I’ve been witness to a shift in the community as new residents from beach communities move inland to escape high costs, leading to a revitalization that can be recognized most notably on Main Street and the surrounding neighborhood. The community is filled with art, steampunk sculptures, murals, and pop-up festivals.

Spend a day walking downtown, or make multiple days trips to seek out the gems that Vista has to offer.

Being a tattooed, punk rock-loving chef, I do plan most of my outings around food, music, and beer.

That said, here are some cool spots (most of them dog-friendly) to help you plan time in my hood.

On the way in, stop at Rosa’s Kitchen. It’s my goto taco shop with the best salsa in San Diego. (Yep, I said it.) Consider the bean and cheese burrito as an excuse to layer four cups of salsa inside of it. They’re amazingly nice people and make great chile verde and really good crispy-shell chicken tacos.

Mother Earth is an easy, family-friendly spot for hanging out over a Pin Up Pale Ale—or any of their beers. Order pizza and salad from URBN across the street and they’ll deliver right to your table in the brewery.

San Diego brews. Chef Ramiro Guerra cranks out lip-smacking food like a duck peanut butter stout mole—yeah baby, yeah!

Dog Haus Biergarten offers mostly patio seating, and is the place to be with ‘80s music blaring, beer, housemade sausage, and great burgers. Who doesn’t want their burger or dog to come on a four pack of griddled Hawaiian rolls? My favorite menu items include the Chili Idol (a Haus dog topped with chili, cheese sauce, and onions), Freiburger (Haus burger topped with fries, white American cheese, slaw, fried egg, and mayo), and tots.

Tortilleria Los Reyes is not only great for takeout comfort food, but the best for freshly made hot corn tortillas.

There is some kick-ass music to be found at unsuspecting places in these parts, like at the Hell Bent for Hair Beauty Parlor. It’s a bright, modern salon filled with super-fun staff. Owner Kayleigh Elizabeth is a talented hair stylist, barber, and recordloving punk rock girl with a Dave Vanian streak in her bangs. If you know, you know.

Elizabeth introduced me to Standards, an oldschool record store with tons of vinyl. You know it’s legit when 45 Grave is the first LP on the rack.

There’s amazing food, vegan doughnuts, dumplings, tons of beer, and great tunes to check out in Vista. Come up, stay awhile, and get some of that salsa from Rosa’s to go, I’m telling you.

Curbside Cafe is an inviting Sunday morning breakfast spot. John Randall, the chef-owner, is the nicest guy with the most upbeat, friendly staff to help get your morning going. They’ll always keep you topped off with plenty of caffeine (thanks, Nikki) and great coffee cake.

Check This Out

BY NOREEN KOMPANIK

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S

urfing is a way of life in Southern California, and there’s no better way to celebrate the culture than a visit to the California Surf Museum. Founded in 1986 and located in Oceanside, the impressive museum chronicles the surfing lifestyle from its inception to modern times with an impressive collection of surf memorabilia dating back to the early 1900s.

Displays include everything from famous surfboards and surf wear to art, photographs, and equipment. The museum’s most popular exhibit features the story of professional surfer Bethany

Hamilton. Her shark-bitten surfboard and bathing suit from the 2003 shark attack in Hawaii that cost the then-13-year-old her arm are on display.

Upcoming exhibitions this spring include "Surfboard Craftsmanship," showcasing the artistry of wood; "Let's Boogie," featuring Tom Morey and the evolution of the boogie board; and a timeline of surfboards.

Museum curators also stress how important preserving the health of the oceans is to the surf community. » surfmuseum.org

COURTESY OF CALIFORNIA SURF MUSEUM

Belching Beaver Tavern & Grill has a large patio and offers a massive beer list that includes other

| PA R T N E R C O N T E N T

ADVERTISERS RESOURCE GUIDE Join the local food movement by patronizing the businesses that support Edible San Diego in being the trusted source for content about sustainability and healthy living in San Diego County.

SAN DIEGO SEED COMPANY info@sandiegoseedcompany.com 414-797-3726 sandiegoseedcompany.com

FA R M S , FA R M E R S ' MARKETS & PRODUCE D E L I V E RY

LĒNUS HANDCRAFTED info@shoplenus.com • 619-200-4266 shoplenus.com

DEL MAR FARMERS' MARKET

G R O C E RY, M E AT & SEAFOOD

1050 Camino Del Mar, Del Mar 760-453-9837 delmarfarmersmarket.org ESCONDIDO CERTIFIED FARMERS’ MARKET 300 Block of Juniper and East Grand Ave. 760-480-4101 • escondidoart.org FARM FRESH TO YOU contactus@farmfreshtoyou.com 00-796-6009 • farmfreshtoyou.com LEUCADIA FARMERS’ MARKET 185 Union St., Encinitas 858-272-7054 • leucadia101.com

DA-LE RANCH 24895 Baxter Ranch Rd. Lake Elsinore dave@da-le-ranch.com • da-le-ranch.com CARRISITO RANCH 25580 CA-79, Santa Ysabel 760-703-4926 • carrisitoranch.org CATALINA OFFSHORE PRODUCTS 5202 Lovelock St., San Diego 619-297-9797 • CatalinaOP.com E D U C AT I O N & N O N P R O F I T

MAINSTREET OCEANSIDE'S FARMERS' MARKET Corner of Pier View Way and Coast Highway. 760-754-4512 • MainStreetOceanside.com

BASTYR UNIVERSITY CALIFORNIA 4106 Sorrento Valley Blvd., San Diego 858-246-9700 bastyr.edu/locations/san-diego-campus

SAND ‘N’ STRAW FARM 629 Mar Vista Dr, Vista 760-877-9054 • sandnstraw.com

A GROWING PASSION TV Show on Thursdays at 8:30pm on KPBS • info@agrowingpassion.com • agrowingpassion.com

SPECIALTY PRODUCE 1929 Hancock St. #150, San Diego 800-221-9730 • specialtyproduce.com STATE ST. FARMERS’ MARKET IN CARLSBAD VILLAGE State St. and Carlsbad Village Dr., Carlsbad 858-272-7054 • carlsbad-village.com W.D. DICKINSON: FARM, HOUSE, AND MERCANTILE 1430 E 24th St., National City 858-848-6914 • wddickinson.com MEGAN MORELLO

URBAN PLANTATIONS 7579 Mission Gorge Rd., San Diego 619-563-5771 • urbanplantations.com

HOME, GARDENING, FLORISTS & R ANCH S U P P LY GRANGETTO'S FARM AND GARDEN 1105 W Mission Ave., Escondido 760-745-4671 • grangettos.com

FALLBROOK CHAMBER OF COMMERCE—AVOCADO FESTIVAL April 19, 2020 9 am­­–5pm Free Admission fallbrookchamberofcommerce.org SAN DIEGO COUNTY VINTNERS ASSOCIATION info@sandiegowineries.org sandiegowineries.org R E S TAU R A N T S A.R. VALENTIEN 11480 North Torrey Pines Rd., La Jolla 858-453-4420 lodgetorreypines.com/ar-valentien BREAK ALL-DAY CAFE + LOUNGE 350 Camino De La Reina, San Diego 858-546-2636

Sand n' Straw Community Farms Farm to Table Dinner.

ESCOGELATO 122 South Kalmia St., Escondido 760-745-6500 • escogelato.com LA BONNE TABLE 3696 Fifth Ave, San Diego 619-260-8039 • labonnetablesd.net LUCKY BOLT 10920 Roselle St. #104, San Diego 858-352-6766 • luckybolt.com MATSU 711 Mission Ave., Oceanside eatatmatsu.com MISSION AVE BAR & GRILL 711 Mission Ave., Oceanside 760-637-2222 missionavebarandgrill.com MITCH'S SEAFOOD 1403 Scott St., San Diego 619-222-8787 • mitchsseafood.com PRIVATEER COAL FIRE PIZZA 1706 S. Coast Hwy., Oceanside 760-453-2500 theprivateercoalfirepizza.com SOLARE 2820 Roosevelt Rd., San Diego 619-270-9670 • solarelounge.com WRENCH & RODENT SEABASSTROPUB 1815 S Coast Hwy., Oceanside 760-271-0531 • seabasstropub.com

ARTISAN BE VER AGES MEADIOCRITY MEAD 1365 Grand Ave., Suite 100, San Marcos 760-651-6323 • meadiocritymead.com THE ROSE WINE BAR 2219 30th St., San Diego 619-281-0718 • therosewinebar.com SAFARI COFFEE 1012 West El Norte Pkwy., Escondido 760-740-9575 • safaricoffee.com WOOF’N ROSE WINERY 17073 Garjan Ln, Ramona 760-788-4818 • WoofNRose.com T R AV E L UNCRUISE ADVENTURES sales@uncruise.com 888-862-8881 • uncruise.com VISIT ESCONDIDO 235 East Grand Ave., Escondido 760-839-4777 • visitescondido.com WINNER DESTINATION melinda@winnerdestination.com 760-975-3973 • winnerdestination.com

Our readers are dedicated to supporting businesses that align with their values. Connect with them by becoming an advertiser or distribution location today.

Contact info@ediblesandiego.com SPRING 2020 |

edible SAN DIEGO 37

edible san diego Local

Enjoy the Open Air Monday

Escondido—Welk Resort √† 8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. 3–7pm 760-651-3630

Tuesday Coronado √

1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing 2:30–6pm 760-741-3763

Escondido √*

262 East Grand Ave. 2:30–7pm (2:30–6pm Oct to May) 760-480-4101

Mira Mesa √*

Wednesday

Grossmont Center Certified √ NEW

Thursday

Little Italy Wednesday √*†

Linda Vista √*†

5500 Grossmont Center Dr., West Court 2–7pm 619-465-2900 501 W. Date St. 9am–1pm 619-233-3901

Ocean Beach √

4900 block of Newport Ave. 4–8pm 619-279-0032

Santee *†

Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd.

3–7pm (2:30–6:30pm winter) 619-449-8427

10510 Reagan Rd. 2:30–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter) 858-272-7054

South Bay √ NEW 4475 Bonita Rd 3-7pm 619-550-7180

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista √

State Street in Carlsbad Village √

2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd.

4–8pm 619-279-0032

Pacific Beach Tuesday √† Bayard & Garnet 2–7pm 619-233-3901

State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 3–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter) 858-272-7054

Temecula—Promenade √*

40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s 9am–1pm 760-728-7343

People’s Produce Night Market √ 5010 Market St. 5–8pm 619-813-9148

San Marcos √

1035 La Bonita Dr. 3–7pm 858-272-7054

UCSD Town Square √

UCSD Campus, Town Square 10am–2pm, Sept to June 858-534-4248

Vail Headquarters √* 32115 Temecula Pkwy.

9am–1pm 760-728-7343

38

ediblesandiego.com

EAT the most delicious californiagrown fruits and vegGIES 7 days a week

Lemon Grove √*

2885 Lemon Grove Ave. 3–7pm 619-813-9148 6939 Linda Vista Rd. 3–7pm (2–6pm winter) 760-504-4363

North Park Thursday √*† 2900 North Park Way 3–7:30pm 619-550-7180

Oceanside Morning √*

Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101 9am–1pm 760-791-3241

Rancho Bernardo √ 16535 Via Esprillo 11am–1:30pm 619-279-0032

Friday

Bernardo Winery √

13330 Paseo del Verano Norte 9am–1pm 760-500-1709

Borrego Springs √ 700 Palm Canyon Dr. 7am–noon, Oct to Apr 760-767-5555

Horton Plaza Lunch Market 225 Broadway Circle 11am–2pm 619-795-3363

Imperial Beach √*†

10 Evergreen Ave. 2–7pm (2–6pm winter) info@imperialbeachfarmersmarket.org

La Mesa Village √*

La Mesa Blvd. btwn Palm & 4th St. 3–7pm, year-round 619-795-3363

Markets Guide Cook All Weekend

Saturday

find the freshest local catch

City Heights √*†!

Pacific Beach √

Temecula—Old Town √*

Del Mar √

Poway √*

Tuna Harbor Dockside Market

Little Italy Mercato à

Rancho Penasquitos

Vista √*†

Wightman St. btwn Fairmount & 43rd St. 9am–1pm 760-504-4363

4150 Mission Blvd.

8am–noon 760-741-3763

1050 Camino Del Mar 1–4pm 858-465-0013

Sixth & Front St. 8am–12:30pm 760-728-7343

14134 Midland Rd. 8am–1pm 619-249-9395

600 W. Date St. 8am–2pm 619-233-3901

879 West Harbor Dr. Port of San Diego 8am–1pm 325 Melrose Dr. 8am–noon 760-945-7425

9400 Fairgrove Ln. 9am–1pm 858-484-8788

Support local growers and businesses

Sunday

Murrieta √*

Hillcrest √*

3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts. 9am–2pm 619-237-1632

Village Walk Plaza I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks & Kalmia 9am–1pm 760-728-7343

La Jolla Open Aire √

North San Diego / Sikes Adobe à

Girard Ave. & Genter 9am–1pm 858-454-1699

12655 Sunset Dr. 10:30am–3:30pm 858-735-5311

Leucadia √*

Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village √

185 Union St. & Vulcan St. 10am–2pm 858-272-7054

Santa Ysabel √

21887 Washington St. Noon–4pm 760-782-9202

Solana Beach √

410 South Cedros Ave. Noon–4pm 858-755-0444

16077 San Dieguito Rd. 9:30am–2pm 619-743-4263

cultivate community * Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children) Farmers’ Market checks. † Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer). ! Market vendors accept WIC Fruit and Vegetable checks. √ Indicates markets certified by the San Diego County Agriculture Commissioner, ensuring that the produce is grown by the seller or another certified farmer in California, and meets all state quality standards. Temecula markets and the Murrieta market are certified by the Riverside County Agricultural Commissioner.

Visit ediblesandiego.com and click on “Resources” for more complete information and links to market websites.

SPRING 2020 |

edible SAN DIEGO 39

PREP |

A Board to Spring For

BY O L I V I A H AYO

W

e know you can’t wait to dip into this spring-inspired board piled with creamy ricotta, farmers’ market crudités, and a carrot top and herb pistou.

This kind of thing never goes out of season with the varieties of fruit and vegetables available in San Diego year-round.

Gather crispier selections and rinse produce in cool water. Slice into chips or sticks.

Make a pistou by combining several handfuls of green herbs (basil, parsley, mint) with a fistful of carrot tops, raw garlic, and a generous glug or two of extra-virgin olive oil and blend until smooth. Season with salt to taste and add extra olive oil until it’s the perfect consistency for drizzling directly over a pool of ricotta. This herbaceous sauce is ready to use right away but only gets better with time in the fridge, so leftovers never go to waste. Use it in salad dressings, as a condiment for grilled or roasted proteins, or simply tossed with your favorite pasta.

To keep things easy, our board features ricotta from Bellwether Farms, a family-owned, herbicide- and artifical-fertilizer free farm and artisan creamery located in Sonoma County, California. It's hard to resist eating a whole basket by the spoonful.

If you’re feeling up for a next-level challenge, try making fresh ricotta with this easy recipe from Gina Freize, founder of Venissimo Cheese. You'll save a few dollars and have a bigger batch of ricotta with unparalled flavor to devour.

F R E S H A N D F LU F F Y R I COT TA Y I E L D S 4 – 5 C U P S ( R E C I P E C A N B E H A LV E D ) Equipment: cheesecloth, thermometer, colander, and large nonaluminum stockpot. Curds and Wine in Clairemont is a great shop for cheesemaking needs.

1 gallon whole milk (not ultra-pasteurized) 1 quart buttermilk 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon citric acid (or ¼ cup lemon juice) Combine ingredients in a large stockpot and heat over medium until mixture reaches 180° (just before boiling), stirring occasionally.

Remove from heat and let sit uncovered for 20 minutes.

Line colander with cheesecloth. After 20 minutes, gently pour the cheese into the lined strainer set over a large bowl to catch the liquid, or whey. Whey can be used for making bread, soup stock, or fertilizing plants (within 2 to 3 days).

Hang the ball of cheese in the cheesecloth over a sink or bowl and let it drain until most of the whey is gone and the cheese is cool, or to desired dryness.

MAKE SURE TO CHECK THE CALENDAR AT VENISSIMO.COM FOR UNIQUE COOKING CLASSES, CHEESE TASTINGS, AND EVENTS LIKE CALIFORNUCOPIA, A FINE WINE COLLABORATIVE DINNER AT WAYFARER BREAD IN BIRD ROCK ON JUNE 11.

OLIVIA HAYO

Notes: Citric acid can be found at Sprouts or international markets across San Diego County. For best results, use whole milk from Rockview and Alta Dena brands. For this recipe, avoid using organic milks that are ultra-pasteurized, as they weaken the bonds needed to form the curds in the cheesemaking process.

E AT

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DR I N K

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S OCI A L I ZE

M O N T H LY W I N E A N D B E E R P A I R I N G D I N N E R S • C O M E D Y T U E S D AY S L I V E M U S I C • D J S U N D AY S • R E TA I L W I N E 1704 S. Coast Hwy. | Oceanside, CA 92054 (760)453-2500 | theprivateercoalfirepizza.com

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