Early Winter 2015 - Cheers! by edible New Mexico

edible

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

SANTA FE ®· ALBUQUERQUE · TAOS The Story

Local Food, Season

Season

Cheers! ISSUE 41 · EARLY WINTER · DECEMBER 2015 / JANUARY 2016

final_9.qxp_Layout 1 5/8/15 9:46 AM Page 1

Chomp...

Munch...

OPEN DAILY ON THE TAOS PLAZA

575.758-8866

Scarf...

THE

W W W .T HEG O R GEB A R AN D G RILL .C OM

/pärCHt/ the physical condition resulting from the need to drink wine, eat good food, and shop…in Taos

103 EAST PLAZA TAOS, NEW MEXICO (575)758-1994

www.parcht.com

DECEMBER 2015 / JANUARY 2016 DEPARTMENTS 2

GRIST FOR THE MILL By Willy Carleton and Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

CONTRIBUTORS

FRONT OF THE HOUSE

Arroyo Vino and Parcht: Bottleshop + Bites by Ellen Zachos

TOOLS OF THE TRADE Las Cosas Kitchen Shoppe by Stephanie Cameron

EDIBLE 101 Coffee Facts and Local Coffee Roasters

BEHIND THE BOTTLE From the Vine by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

AT THE CHEF'S TABLE An Anthropology of Sherry by Sam Melada

LOCAL HEROES

EDIBLE NOTABLES

EAT LOCAL GUIDE

LAST BITE

Sage Bakehouse and 2016 Local Hero Nominees

Spicy Atole de Calabaza Borrachito Style by Enrique Guerrero

FEATURES 19 POETRY AND COCKTAILS By Hakim Bellamy, Sawnie Morris, Jessica Helen Lopez, Joan Logghe, Valerie Martínez, and Deborah Casillas

O N T H E C OV E R

edible

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

SANTA FE ®· ALBUQUERQUE · TAOS The STory

LocaL food, SeaSon

SeaSon

32 THE SPIRIT IN THE BOTTLE By Willy Carleton

38 CRAFT BEVERAGE INDUSTRY GROWS By Amy White

44 NECTAR OF THE GODS By Allison Muss

48 CONSISTENTLY GOOD: OHORI'S By Laura Jean Schneider

52 DRINK YOUR GREENS By Katherine Mast

Cheers! ISSUE 41 · EARLY WINTER · DECEMBER 2015 / JANUARY 2016

Cheers! Downtown Taos, see recipe on page 29. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

57 SPRING FROST By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

grist for the mill Poetry, as Gwendolyn Brooks famously put it, is life distilled. Just as a distilled spirit can bring the immensity of a landscape into a glass, a poem can fit the expanse of an experience into a few potent phrases. Just as a glass of brandy can capture and amplify subtle flavors of apples, a poem can reveal hidden nuances that intensify and add meaning to our days. Both a fine whiskey and a well-crafted poem can strengthen bonds, intoxicate, and open the mind to the beauty of life in the present moment. In this issue, as the holiday season nears, we pair these two distilled forms of life in a celebration of local harvests, past and yet to come. We have much to celebrate in our glasses this season. The options for locally produced beverages increases at a dizzying clip—New Mexico is now home to seven micro-distilleries, nearly fifty wineries, five cideries, and the list grows. Several new juice bars have opened and good coffee has never been easier to find. Perhaps the most significant changes in the local beverage scene are occurring

PUBLISHERS Bite Size Media, LLC Stephanie and Walt Cameron

EDITORS Willy Carleton and Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

POETRY EDITOR Valerie Martínez

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Jodi L. Vevoda

COPY EDITOR Margaret Marti

DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron

PHOTOGRAPHY Stephanie Cameron, Douglas Merriam Photograpy, Rick Scibelli

WEB AND SOCIAL MEDIA EDITORS

in our pint glasses. New Mexico is participating a nation-wide renaissance in craft

Stephanie Cameron, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

brewing that has the potential to transform much more than beer culture. The pro-

VIDEO PRODUCER

liferation of local breweries signals more jobs, not just for brewers and bar staff but

Walt Cameron

also for farmers, food truck entrepreneurs, and local musicians and artists. Breweries

ADVERTISING

provide new social spaces—built around the consumption and appreciation of high-

Walt Cameron, Gina Riccobono, Jodi L. Vevoda

quality, local products—which inspire customers to branch out and develop connoisseurship that carries over to food and other beverages. Beer has improved, and so has the drinking experience. As brewers and other craft beverage makers continue to grow and collaborate, a cultural, agricultural, and political momentum builds that benefits the entire local food scene. As we raise our glasses, we celebrate more than their contents. The votes are in and we toast all of this year’s edible local heroes who work to give depth and meaning to our regional cuisine. Support these local producers; ask them questions about why they do what they do, and maybe even make a New Year’s resolution to become one yourself. Here’s to the efforts of farmers, food and beverage artisans, advocates, and others who change the ways we appreciate and celebrate our local landscape and community. Cheers!

Willy Carleton and Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, Editors

Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers

CONTACT US: 3301-R Coors Boulevard NW #152 Albuquerque, NM 87120 info@ediblesantafe.com www.ediblesantafe.com Phone/Fax: 505-212-0791

SUBSCRIBE ∙ BUY AN AD ∙ LETTERS 505-212-0791 WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at INFO@EDIBLESANTAFE.COM Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible Santa Fe six times a year. We distribute throughout Central and Northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. Printed at American Web Denver, Colorado No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2015 All rights reserved.

edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2015

WINTER in the Rio Grande River Valley From crackling fires to austere, snow clad landscapes, Los Poblanos is the perfect wintertime destination.

meetings & retreats I work celebrations holiday parties I unique gifts at the Farm Shop seasonal winter menus I lodging at the Inn

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

contributors HAKIM BELLAMY Hip-hop generation dad. Person-in-progress. Poetry-in-practice. Journo. Author. Community organizer. Bright ideas magnet. Music addict. W. K. Kellogg Foundation Fellow. Inaugural Albuquerque Poet Laureate. Find him at www.hakimbe.com. WILLY CARLETON Willy Carleton lives in Albuquerque and is an avid vegetable grower, forager, and editor of edible Santa Fe. He is writing a dissertation on the agricultural history of twentieth-century New Mexico in the history department at UNM. DEBORAH CASILLAS Deborah Casillas was born in Los Angeles and lived in Berkeley, San Francisco, Madrid, and Mexico City before moving to Santa Fe. She studied poetry at the College of Santa Fe and with local poets Jon Davis, Greg Glazner, and Valerie Martinez. Her poems have appeared in various literary journals. JOAN LOGGHE Joan Logghe was Poet Laureate of Santa Fe 2010-12. Her latest book is The Singing Bowl, (UNM Press). She teaches at Ghost Ranch, UNM- Los Alamos, and Santa Fe Girls' School. JESSICA HELEN LOPEZ Jessica Helen Lopez is the current City of Albuquerque Poet Laureate and the Poet-In-Residence for the Albuquerque Museum of Art and History. She has also been a featured writer for 30 Poets in their 30s by Muzzle Magazine and named one of 10 Up And Coming LatinX Poets You Need To Know by Remezcla. Her first collection of poetry, Always Messing With Them Boys (West End Press, 2011), made the Southwest Book of the Year reading list and was also awarded the Zia Book Award presented by New Mexcico Press Women. KATHERINE MAST Katherine Mast is a freelance science and environmental writer living in Santa Fe where she dabbles in backyard gardening and vermicomposting. VALERIE MARTÍNEZ Valerie Martínez's award-winning books of poetry include Absence, Luminescent; World to World; A Flock of Scarlet Doves; And They Called It Horizon; and This is How It Began. Her book-length poem, Each and Her (winner of the 2012 Arizona Book Award) was nominated for the Pulitzer Prize, the National Book Critics Circle Award, the PEN Open Book Award, the William Carlos William Award, the Ron Ridenhour Prize, and received an Honorable Mention in the 2011 International Latino Book Awards. Her poetry has been widely published in magazines, literary journals, and anthologies. Valerie was the Poet Laureate of Santa Fe for 2008 – 2010. SAM MELADA Sam Melada is a food and wine writer with a strong desire to make the history, language, and culture of wine and food more accessible and enjoyable to everyone. He is a full-time nurse educator with UNM hospitals and a graduate student in cognitive linguistics at UNM. 4

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

SAWNIE MORRIS Sawnie Morris is winner of the 2015 New Issues Poetry Award for Her, Infinite, forthcoming in March of 2016. She has been the recipient of a Poetry Society of America George Bogin Memorial Award and, for her chapbook in The Sound a Raven Makes (Tres Chicas Books, 2006), a cowinner of the New Mexico Book Award. Her writing about poetry has won a Texas PEN Literary Award and appeared in The Kenyon Review, Contemporary Literary Criticism, and Boston Review. She is a frequent contributor and former Book Review & Essay Editor for Taos Journal of International Poetry & Art. ALLISON MUSS An advertising copywriter, newsletter publisher, and freelance writer, Allison loves to eat, but hates to cook. Living in Wisconsin was her culinary turning point; there she became ensconced in the farm-totable movement, learned the joys of homemade local fare, and recognized the importance of writing about it. Besides edible Santa Fe, her food-centric articles have appeared in the Santa Fe Reporter and their Annual Manual. LAURA JEAN SCHNEIDER Laura Jean Schneider lives on the Mescalero Apache Reservation. Her writing has appeared in the Montana Quarterly and New Mexico Magazine, and on The Writer magazine's website. She is the author of Ranch Diaries, a bi-monthly web series for High Country News about working ranch life. Find her at laurajeanschneider.com. SARAH WENTZEL-FISHER Sarah Wentzel-Fisher is the editor of edible Santa Fe. She also works for the Rio Grande Farmers Coalition and the Quivira Coalition New Agrarian Program, and wants you (yes, all of you) to consider becoming a farmer. In her free time she visits farms (she highly recommends this activity), experiments in her kitchen, and keeps chickens in her backyard. AMY WHITE Amy White teaches science classes for teachers at Central New Mexico Community College and is the education coordinator for Ciudad Soil and Water Conservation District. Over the past eight years, she has developed programs such as RiverXchange and the Arroyo Classroom Program to teach kids about New Mexico’s precious ecosystems and water resources. She also writes about urban foraging, gardening, and cooking on her blog, Veggie Obsession (www.veggieobsession.com). ELLEN ZACHOS Ellen Zachos is the foraging expert at About.com (foraging.about.com) where she shares seasonal recipes and tips on foraging. She writes a monthly column for the National Gardening Association and is a regular contributor to several Edible magazines. Ellen is a Harvard graduate and the author of six books including Backyard Foraging: 65 Familiar Plants You Didn’t Know You Could Eat. She is currently working on a book of foraged cocktails which will be published in 2016. A long-time instructor at the New York Botanic Garden, Ellen has recently moved to Santa Fe.

november 22, 2015 – september 11, 2016 An exhibition that traces flamenco from its Gypsy beginnings to its rise as an art form now enjoyed by millions worldwide.

On Museum Hill in Santa Fe · internationalfolkart.org THIS EXHIBITION HAS BEEN MADE POSSIBLE IN PART BY EL FAROL, SANTA FE’S OLDEST RESTAURANT AND CANTINA. Additional support comes from the Cotsen Family Foundation, the Folk Art Committee/Friends of Folk Art, the Museum of New Mexico Foundation and the International Folk Art Foundation. Pictured: María Benítez and Vicente Romero, Tesuque, New Mexico, c. 1970. Photograph courtesy Lili del Castillo and Luís Campos.

front of the house

Arroyo Vino

KNOWING WHAT CUSTOMERS WANT By Ellen Zachos • Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Left to right: Arroyo Vino wine shop; David Enright and Brian Bargsten at Arroyo Vino stock some eight hundred wines.

You’re not going to stumble upon Arroyo Vino casually, but more and more people make the drive out to Las Campanas to visit this special place. Just northwest of Santa Fe, it’s well worth the trip. Arroyo Vino takes wine seriously. They won’t sell something because it’s a novelty; there’s no such thing as touting a wine just because it’s local. Founded in 2011, the wine shop at Arroyo Vino is less well known than the restaurant of the same name, which opened in 2013, right next door. While the restaurant has quickly gained a welldeserved reputation for its creative menu and expansive wine list, the wine shop is a well-kept secret, frequented mostly by residents of Las Campanas west of Santa Fe. That should change. Brian Bargsten is the sommelier, co-owner, and managing partner at Arroyo Vino. I was especially interested in Bargsten’s take on local wines, and considering the restaurant’s local and seasonal bent, I fig6

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

ured I’d find several to choose from. In fact, there was only one on the shelves: a Gruet chardonnay. Noting my surprise, Bargsten explained that he wasn’t opposed to carrying New Mexico wines, but it isn’t something his customers ask for. “There’s no reason New Mexico can’t produce great wines,” Bargsten said. In fact, he’d discussed the subject with a colleague just the day before. The climate is appropriate, but Bargsten suspects it’s a matter of finding people with the necessary knowledge and bankroll to make serious wines. In the kitchen, the approach is somewhat different. There, local ingredients are used whenever that makes sense from a quality and economic point of view. In 2015, their garden was greatly improved, with attention paid to composting kitchen waste, drip irrigation, and raising unusual crops like squash blossoms and a full range of flavorful

herbs. (Unfortunately, several July hail storms did a number on the tomatoes.) Recent construction of a greenhouse will provide new space for growing micro-greens and starting seeds in 2016. As Bargsten explains, Chef Colin Shane works with raw ingredients, while a bottle of wine is a finished product. The chef can work his magic with a tender cut of New Mexico lamb or a delicate edible flower. But a bottle of wine is a completed work of art, and what goes into it can’t always be replicated or replaced by a talented winemaker. Both the terroir and the grapes themselves are essentials that are very much tied to a specific place. While the restaurant wine list offers a selection of ten reds and ten whites, customers are encouraged to choose a bottle from the store shelves to bring to the dinner table. A twenty dollar corking fee is the only mark up from the wine store price, a startling exception to typical wine mark-ups in restaurants, and one that Bargsten hopes will encourage customers to try better wines without much sticker shock. Both Bargsten and store manager David Enright like to play with the line-up on their shelves. Of the eight hundred wines they carry, about fifty are static, which leaves lots of room for experimentation. While the changing inventory and depth of selection is exciting for an oenophile, for those of us who feel undereducated when it comes to choosing the right bottle of wine, the sheer number of choices can be overwhelming. That’s where the expertise of Bargsten and Enright come in, and that’s why it’s worth the trip to Las Campanas. Every bottle on the shelves has been carefully selected, and Bargsten and Enright combine an intimate knowledge of their wares with an understanding of what customers want. Bargsten isn’t shy about dissuading customers from purchasing a bottle he thinks will leave them unsatisfied. The sommelier’s job is not merely to suggest a wine for a specific meal or a special occasion, but also to understand what the customer likes in a more general sense. Arroyo Vino keeps a database of purchases which helps Bargsten and Enright develop an understanding of their clientele’s preferences. Customers trust these men to help them choose wine wisely. Before I left the shop, I asked Bargsten to choose a bottle of white for my dinner. I wanted a budget-conscious wine, and I asked for something not too sweet, fruity, or heavily oaked. He chose a bottle of Statti Lamezia bianco and, damn, if he didn’t nail it! For fourteen dollars, I got a crisp, flavorful, light white wine that proves exactly why it’s worth a special trip out to Arroyo Vino. Whether the wines are local or not, Bargsten knows his stuff…and he’s there to make you happy. 218 Camino La Tierra, Santa Fe, 505-983-2100, www.arroyovino.com

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front of the house

Parcht: Bottleshop + Bites SO MUCH MORE THAN A NICE GLASS OF WINE By Ellen Zachos • Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Left to right: Nicolette Casale and Kevin Hunter of Parcht serve coffee, tea and, most importantly, wine; Cruvinet with vast selection.

Despite what it says on the sign, Parcht offers much more than “bottleshop + bites.” Yes, first and foremost, Parcht is a wine bar and a wine store. It also offers craft beers on tap; locally roasted coffee from Iconik in Santa Fe; tea from New Mexico Tea Company in Albuquerque and Tea.o.graphy in Taos; and both savory and sweet small plates. The space is small, comfortable, and relaxed, and the service is friendly and personal. The Roessler Group owns Parcht, as well as Savoy, Seasons, and Zinc restaurants in Albuquerque, and the Gorge Bar & Grill in Taos, directly above Parcht on the east plaza. Kevin Hunter and Nicolette Casale run Parcht, and stress how grateful they are to work with supportive owners like the Roesslers who have given them great autonomy in decision making. 8

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

Nodding toward Casale, Hunter says, “I know who the boss is,” but it’s clear this is a well-balanced partnership. Hunter and Casale share everything; together they choose the wine, prepare the food, run the house, and serve the customers. They make it all look very easy. Both combine years of practical experience in the food and beverage industry with formal education from the International Sommelier Guild and the Court of Master Sommeliers. Which makes sense, because wine is at the center of the unique experience that is Parcht. Behind the bar stands the Cruvinet, a temperature and atmospheric control unit that allows Hunter and Casale to keep ten reds and ten whites on tap and fresh. The machine uses nitrogen to keep oxygen off the wine and thereby preventing oxidation. The beauty of the Cruvinet lies not only in its ability to keep wine fresh but also because it

allows Hunter and Casale to pour a customer a taste of wine at the touch of a button. What better way to introduce someone to a new wine than by offering a free taste? This approach is key to the Parcht experience. Hunter and Casale have chosen an eclectic and well-rounded wine lineup that changes three or four times a year. They focus on wines not found in supermarkets and large retailers, but often from smaller, less well-known vineyards that Hunter describes as restaurant friendly. This means the wine makers will sell their wine at a smaller markup to restaurants because they see it as a form of marketing. Someone who loves their wine at a restaurant is more likely to seek it out in a retail establishment. At Parcht this happens all the time. Perhaps a customer asks for a glass of pinot grigio, which isn’t on the menu. Hunter might explain that they don’t currently sell a pinot grigio by the glass, and he might suggest a glass of Sancerre instead. A taste of wine can be very convincing, especially when served with thoughtfulness and expertise. That customer might discover she loves Sancerre, even though she had never heard of it before Hunter’s offer, and she might take a bottle of said Sancerre home with her for later in the week. When asked about New Mexico wines, Hunter points out that in the past New Mexico has been known for producing sweet wines. Now dry wines are more popular, and New Mexico vintners are learning to accommodate this change in taste. He is optimistic about the future of New Mexico wines and mentions the joint venture between Gruet and the Santa Ana Pueblo as a promising project (see page 56). Hunter stocks a few New Mexico wines on the retail shelves at Parcht—Merkin and Vivac, and a Gruet twenty-fifth anniversary blanc de blanc are currently on tap. Both Black Mesa and La Chiripada have tasting rooms in Taos, so Parcht has chosen to focus on New Mexico wines customers can’t find nearby. Bosque Brewing Company beer is on tap, along with four other beers, and many of the small plates feature New Mexico and Colorado meats and cheeses. Hunter and Casale expected their clientele to be mostly tourists, but were happy to realize that the majority of their customers are locals. Regulars trust them to pick out a wine for a special occasion and look forward to trying new bottles from the Cruvinet. The combination of a thoughtful, retail wine store with a friendly, modern wine bar makes Parcht’s business model unique; it’s a place where you can fall in love with a bottle of wine, then take it home with you. But the people behind the bar are equally special. Attentive, expert, personal service makes the customer feel both welcome and appreciated, and who wouldn’t want to spend time in a place like that. Warning: Parcht may be habit-forming. 103 E Plaza, Taos, 575-758-1994, www.parcht.com

...get cozy steep yourself in the magic of winter in Taos Taos, NM

575-758-2306

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tools of L the

trade

By Stephanie Cameron

as Cosas Kitchen Shoppe in Santa Fe opened forty-three years ago in 1972. In 1998, Karen and Mike Walker purchased the shop and tripled the size of the property, serving the community’s kitchen needs for the last eighteen years. The Walkers are an anomaly in that they have managed to survive the onslaught of big box stores and internet giants. So why would you, as a consumer, choose to spend your dollars with Las Cosas rather than with their larger corporate counterparts who may offer a better bargain and more choices? The answer is simple: personable customer service, competitive prices, and diverse selection. As a victim of internet bargain shopping that led to four coffee makers in less than three years, I quickly realized from my visit with Mike Walker that I would never shop for my kitchen needs this way again. For the amount of time it takes to vet the thousands of reviews on Amazon and decide whether to side with the five star reviewers or one star reviewers and the best price, I could have driven to Las Cosas and had a variety of options and price ranges to choose from, most with a life-time guarantee. Better yet, I’d have a real, live person and authorized dealer to tell me about the pros and cons of all the choices in a coffee maker. Las Cosas also offers price matching and a loyalty program, as well as cooking classes. Many of the appliances you can buy come with a free cooking class so you can learn to use them. Cooking School Director John Vollertsen (a.k.a. Chef Johnny Vee) helped open the cooking school in 1999 and offers fifteen plus different classes every month to help you get comfortable with all the tools they offer. From knife skills and high-altitude baking to paella and braising techniques, there is a class for any level home cook.

LAS COSAS

Walker and I spent a morning discussing all the ways to brew coffee, which according to Walker, is all about “maximizing the flow of water.” From drip coffee to pour-over coffee and from grinders to glassware, Las Cosas has just about every option available for preparing your favorite locally roasted beans.

K I TC HEN SHOPPE

Fino Pour-Over Coffee and Tea Kettle More than a stainless

Las Cosas Kitchen Shoppe 181 Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe, 505-988-3394 www.lascosascooking.com

Bodum Bistro Mugs The Bistro line is made of mouth-blown borosilicate glass known for its amazing insulating qualities. Bistro Double Wall Glass Line serves best if used to keep cold drinks cold and hot drinks hot.

Set of two $34.99 10

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

steel tea kettle, the Fino's narrow spout and gooseneck curve naturally produce the slow and precise water flow critical to extracting the most flavor with the pour-over coffee and tea brewing technique. Pour-over coffee (unlike some other methods) continuously replenishes the liquid surrounding the coffee grounds with new, fresher water. This promotes a faster, more efficient brew. $45

Toddy Cold Brew System Many coffee lovers find regular brewed coffee too acidic. The Toddy cold brew system extracts the coffee bean's true delicious flavor and eliminates much of the acidity (up to sixty-seven percent less acid), producing a bold and smooth coffee concentrate that may be refrigerated for up to fourteen days without any deterioration in taste or freshness. Toddy cold-brewed coffee can be served hot or iced. $39.99

Capresso Infinity Conical Burr Grinder The Infinity conical burr grinder provides maximum aroma and flavor retention. Poorly ground beans will affect the taste of your coffee. With a conical burr grinder, beans are ground in a uniform size, and you have more control over your grind than you do with a blade. You are also less likely to burn your grind as flat blade grinders can do. $99.99

Le Creuset French Press Coarsely ground coffee beans are steeped in boiling water, and then filtered away by plunging the mesh sieve through the press. Direct contact between the beans and the water means a stronger flavor. This ceramic press holds heat better than a glass press.

$65 Automatic Coffee Centers Las Cosas has a demo center for all their automatic coffee centers so you can try them in the store or even take them home or to the office to give them a test drive. They are fully programmable and do the grinding and brewing for you to specification. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a simple cup of coffee, espresso, or cappuccino, these coffee makers do it all. $799 - $5,999

Technivorm Moccamaster Coffee Maker These coffee makers are all manufactured and assembled by hand and tested individually in a live situation. They are designed to maximize the flow of water and to function like an automatic pour-over. $329

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Coffee Facts

edible 101

asic re b two es a e The tegori sta. Th s a bu nc lean bea and ro rofile usta ica or p rob arab ca flav c; the feine i af di arab rd aci gher c old a i b tow ers a h and a ch off ntent th mu co or wi id. flav ess ac l

Fifty-four percent of Americans drink coffee every day.

illustration by Kelli Cameron

The word coffee comes from the Arabic for "wine of the bean.”

Coffee beans aren't beans. They are fruit pits.

Coffee is the world's second most valuable traded commodity, only behind petroleum.

Coffee is the biggest source of antioxidants in an average diet! edible Santa Fe | 12Western

EARLY WINTER 2015

It only takes ten minutes to start feeling the effects of caffeine after you take a sip of coffee.

Many steps go into the preparation of roasted coffee beans for the end user before it is transformed into that wonderful cup of artisan coffee. Picking, stripping, fermenting, drying, roasting, grinding, and then begins the beverage preparation.

One of the world's most e xpensi ve brands , Black coffee Ivory, i ferm s elepha ented by res cued nts in T h coffee cherrie ailand. They eat s , remove th them f en care take rs ro ment. The be m their excr eans are roasted cleane , and s d, old for cup or $50 pe $179 fo r ra quarte r poun d.

According to legend, Ethiopian shepherds first realized the profound caffeinating effects of coffee when they noticed their goats started “dancing” after eating coffee berries.

ROASTING THEIR OWN

CASSIE’S FITNESS BOUTIQUE

Locally roasted, small-batch production coffee houses. This list focuses on coffee shops roasting their own beans in Albuquerque and Santa Fe. Many other local roasters specialize in wholesale to your favorite coffee spots. Tell us about your favorites on our Facebook page (www.facebook.com/ediblesfe) and support local businesses by buying locally roasted coffee. With all these choices, why would you choose Starbucks? ALBUQUERQUE Cafe Bella Coffee 2115 Golf Course SE, Rio Rancho 9121 Eagle Ranch NW Fans of Film Cinema Cafe & Coffee Roaster 504 Yale SE Java Joe’s Roast under name Red Door Roasters 906 Park SW Michael Thomas Coffee 1111 Carlisle SE Moons Coffee & Tea 1605 Juan Tabo NE

WHERE FITNESS & FASHION MEET! FOR WOMEN & MEN 505 Cerrillos Rd. @ LUNA Courtyard Downtown Santa Fe • 505-983-0647 Free Parking at Cerrillos & Manhattan streets

www.cassiesfitnessboutique.com

New Mexico Piñon Coffee Company 4431 Anaheim NE Red Rock Roasters 4801 Jefferson NE The Brew by Villa Myriam 311 Gold SW Trifecta Coffee Company 413 Montano NE Winnings Coffee 111 Harvard SE

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SANTA FE Aroma Coffee Company 4 Bisbee Court Iconik Coffee Roasters 1600 Lena Java Joe's 2801 Rodeo 1248 Siler Las Chivas Coffeehouse 7 Avenida Vista Grande Ohori's Coffee 1098 1/2 South St. Francis 505 Cerrillos

E S T.

20 0

NOW OPEN IN SANTA FE order online @ www.jerkybyart.com 1717 San Pedro Drive NE, Albuquerque • 2235A Bosque Farms Blvd, Bosque Farms 1520 Deborah Road, Suite J, Rio Rancho • 2107 Cerrillos Road, Santa Fe WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

behind the bottle

From Vine to Glass AN IN-DEPTH LOOK AT NEW MEXICO WINEMAKING By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Pinot meuenier varietal To initiate our new Behind the Bottle department, I talked to Beverly Stotz, executive director of the New Mexico Wine Growers Association (NMWGA), to get a read on trends and happenings of winemakers and growers in our state. The organization, established in 1991, promotes the wine industry of New Mexico. Like breweries, cideries, and distilleries, the number of winemakers in the state continues to increase, as does the sophistication that they bring to their work. NMWGA supports its fifty-two member vineyards, wineries, and tasting rooms at all stages from vineyards to retail through marketing, education, legislation, and community outreach. For many years, New Mexico vintners had focused primarily on sweet wines. Vintners trained in California and France have recently brought the skills and expertise required for better dry wines, and viticulturalists have developed better understanding of what varieties can be coaxed to do well in New Mexico soil to produce those wines. 14

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

According to Stotz, New Mexico wine industry above all needs to do a better job toasting its work. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have lots of wineries making excellent wines. I can say that all day long, but the proof is in the awards. When we bubble to the top on the international stage, that says it all. We just need to capitalize on those awards and make sure we are telling our story.â&#x20AC;? In an effort to encourage New Mexico wine producers to seek recognition, in 2016 NMWGA will help send member producers to the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition. These events offer one of a few places where wine can be evaluated by professionals from around the world in the wine industry, and on stage with other regions. As medals are won, it further solidifies our status as a reputable wine region producing superior wines, and introduces New Mexico wine to leaders in national and international markets.

DOUBLE GOLD

2015 Denver International Wine Competition Casa Abril Vineyards 2014 Sol y Luna 2015 San Francisco International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2009 Reserve Aglianico 2015 Tasters Guild International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2009 Reserve Aglianico Luna Rossa Winery 2008 Reserve Nebbiolo 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition Noisy Water Winery 2013 Wine Maker’s Select Merlot

GOLD

2015 Tasters Guild International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery Sangria Luna Rossa Winery 2007 Reserve Barbera Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Tempranillo 2015 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition Wines of the San Juan Pinot Grigio 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2008 Reserve Nebbiolo Noisy Water Winery Curtain Call Noisy Water Winery Ruidoso Bubbly Ponderosa Valley Vineyards 2011 Sangiovese 2015 Riverside International Wine Competition Heart of the Desert Sweet Gewürztraminer (Chairman’s Award) 2015 Beverage Testing Institute St Clair Winery 2013 Malvasia Bianca

SILVER

2015 Denver International Wine Competition Casa Abril Vineyards 2013 Sangiovese Casa Abril Vineyards 2014 Malbec Casa Abril Vineyards 2014 Zinfandel Casa Abril Vineyards 2014 Tempranillo 2015 TEXSOM International Wine Competition Gruet Winery 2010 Grand Rose 2015 Tasters Guild International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2014 Chardonnay Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Sangiovese Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Luna Rossa Winery 2014 Chenin Blanc

2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition Black Mesa Winery 2012 Malbec Black Mesa Winery 2012 Merlot Jaramillo Vineyards 2013 Chambourcin La Chiripada Winery 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon La Chiripada Winery 2012 Petite Sirah La Chiripada Winery 2014 Viognier Luna Rossa Winery 2013 Moscato Luna Rossa Winery 2009 Reserve Aglianico Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Tempranillo Noisy Water Winery Bella Rosa Noisy Water Winery 2013 Black Muscat Noisy Water Winery Divine Intervention Ponderosa Valley Vineyards 2013 Chardonnay Rio Grande Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Beverage Testing Institute St Clair Winery 2014 DH Lescombes Sauvignon Blanc St Clair Winery 2014 Gewürztraminer St Clair Winery 2014 Pinot Grigio St Clair Winery 2013 Riesling

BRONZE

2015 TEXSOM International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition Wines of the San Juan Dry Blue Winged Olive Wines of the San Juan 2011 Serendipity Merlot Wines of the San Juan Chardonnay Wines of the San Juan 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Tasters Guild International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2013 Malbec Luna Rossa Winery 2014 Dry Riesling Luna Rossa Winery 2014 Pinot Grigio 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition Black’s Smuggler Winery 2013 Baco Noir Black’s Smuggler Winery Sandia Rose Camino Real Winery 2014 Chardonnay Jaramillo Vineyards 2013 Cabernet Franc Jaramillo Vineyards 2013 Tempranillo La Chiripada Winery 2012 Dolcetto La Chiripada Winery 2014 Riesling Luna Rossa Winery 2007 Reserve Barbera Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Sangiovese Noisy Water Winery 2013 Reserve Chardonnay Noisy Water Winery 2012 Dolcetto Noisy Water Winery El Cabron Viejo Noisy Water Winery La Vida Dulce Noisy Water Winery Moscato Noisy Water Winery Relleno Brothers Malvasia Bianca Noisy Water Winery 2013 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Noisy Water Winery 2013 Riesling Noisy Water Winery Tighty Whitey Rio Grande Vineyards & Winery Sangiovese

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

Top left, clockwise: As players in the local wine story, Amaro Winery welcomes guests to its tasting room; David Arnold of Wines of the San Juan inspects his vines, photo by Rick Scibelli; Milagro Vineyards sits framed by the Sandia mountains.

Awards also matter to consumers. They help make buying decisions when faced with similar products—a California merlot beside a silver-medal New Mexico merlot may be what it takes to convince the buyer that a local wine can stand up to the connoisseur at his or her next dinner party. Then there’s the issue of having a broad base of well-educated wine drinkers in the state—drinking or tasting wine still carries stigma of unwarranted snobbishness and elitism. At its essence, wine, like anything else, is really up to an individual’s taste preference. Stotz says, “There is a perception that wine tasting is intimidating. The only rule is, there are no rules. The best place to start is at a local winery or tasting room.” NMWGA offers a wine map and app to locate wineries nearby using a smartphone. Stotz recommends using a notebook, or notating photos of the wine bottle, as it can be hard to remember all details of what makes a particular wine appealing. She also says that wine festivals provide an excellent opportunity to try wines from numerous wineries. Nearly two dozen wineries participate at NMWGA’s

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

large festivals. In March, they will host a Wine Education Conference at the Sheraton Uptown for those who really want to dive in deep. Wine takes longer than craft beer-making in several ways: it takes years to develop a mature vineyard, years to age a finished product, and years to develop a local culture of connoisseurship. But with more vineyards come more viticulturalists who know how to produce great grapes, vintners who produce delicious wine, chefs who know how to pair local flavors. More tastings make for more confident wine drinkers. More local wine choices stimulate pride in place and consumer demand. And more wine is just plain good!

www.nmwine.com

There’s living. And there’s loving life. We’re here to help with the second one. Our intriguing blends of herbs and botanicals support energy, stamina, focus, and overall

well-being. Cup after cup, day after day, life is good.

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

Poetry and Cocktails photos by Stephanie Cameron

Last year, after watching Valerie Martínez, Michelle Otero, and Shelle Sanchez (ECKO Poets) read from “Anyway, We Live” during a Women & Creativity event, I resolved to find more space for poetry, both in edible and in life. The language of poetry is both liquid and potent, so poems with cocktails seemed a natural pairing. I asked Martínez to select a few local poets to write a toast to food, community, and celebration. These poets represent Albuquerque, Santa Fe, and Taos and come with significant accolades: two poets laureate of Santa Fe and two of Albuquerque as well as a long list of awards and publications. As a group, they also represent an astonishing commitment to community initiatives that make New Mexico a richer place. Without prompting, and unsurprisingly, each writer responded with passion about place, family, and land. So now, I invite you to lift a glass to poets, collaboration, and all the spirits of the season. Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

RADISH & RYE

Mixologist: Quinn Stephenson

505 Manhattan

(pictured)

2 ounces Buffalo Trace bourbon 1 ounce sweet vermouth 1/2 ounce creme de cacao 2 drops of mole bitters Combine all ingredients in a shaker filled with ice. Shake until chilled, then strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with bourbon-soaked Amareno cherry. This cocktail pairs well with our grilled pork chop or our smoked ribs. 548 Agua Fria, Santa Fe, 505-930-5325 www.radishandrye.com

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TONGUE

by Hakim Bellamy With cupped ears pointed skyward, we wait for the heavens to bleed blessings one drop at a time. Delicious, so good I can hear it. Hear it percolating, it sounds like lovemaking in the kitchen. We sometimes call it “Joe.” We demand it any time of day with hollow-tip prayers in rapid-fire succession, a harvest of hallelujah. We raise our cups, offer us up for the filling, for the stuffing, for the giving, for the thanks, the communion, the conversation, the people we want to drink with, or from, the ideas good enough to eat. Thirsty for the promise we are so desperate to grow inside us. We offer ourselves up in exchange for double rainbows, as the consummation of a covenant between the fruit of Aztlan and mankind. This meal is a promise of biblical proportions, of dominion and stewardship, of consumption and coexistence. And as we stand barefoot in this garden with a handful of vineyard extended above our melon, we recognize our place in this ecosystem of predator, and pray. Our Lengua Legacy the relationship between our tongue and our land is one in which we eat dirt in order to taste life —and we are what we eat. Amen.

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

VINAIGRETTE

Mixologist: Erin Wade

Apple Cider Spritz

(not pictured)

At Vinaigrette, because we don’t have a full liquor license, we serve this spicy-fruity fall syrup with a nice sparkling wine or champagne and one of the Dram bitters from Colorado that we carry at Modern General for added complexity. But since it is holiday season, with a chill in the air and mothers-in-law is in your zip code, why not add whisky? Cider-Honey Syrup 1/2 cup honey 1 inch piece of ginger, peeled and sliced 2 cinnamon sticks 1 teaspoon whole cloves 1 cup apple cider 4 sprigs rosemary Spritz 1 ounce whiskey or bourbon 2 ounces cider-honey syrup 3 – 5 drops of Dram Hair of the Dog bitters Gruet Brut to top glass Sprig of rosemary to garnish For the syrup, combine honey, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and apple cider in a saucepan; heat until the mixture starts to bubble, about 3 – 4 minutes. Remove from heat; add rosemary and let cool for 25 minutes. Strain through a sieve and transfer to a container until ready to use. Can be made ahead and stored covered in the refrigerator for up to one week. Also, this syrup is great added to sparkling water for an autumnal non-alcoholic bevy. In a shaker filled with ice, combine the honey syrup and whiskey. Shake vigorously and strain into a serving glass. Top with champagne and garnish with a rosemary sprig.

Royale

(pictured left)

2 ounces cider-honey syrup 3 drops of Dram Hair of the Dog bitters Champagne or nice sparkling wine to top Frozen cranberries or pomegranate seeds for garnish Pour syrup and bitters into a champagne or wine glass and top with bubbly. Float a few frozen cranberries or pomegranate seeds on top for a festive colorful garnish. Pair with I Yam What I Yam salad. 1828 Central SW, Albuquerque, 505-842-5507 709 Don Cubero Alley, Santa Fe, 505-820-9205 www.vinaigretteonline.com

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YOU, FRIENDS, ARE MY CUP OF HONEY by Sawnie Morris

, my mellifluous

yearning, my song

of songs. You are

the apple

trees in autumn, their fruitful

fingers

crossed. You are the bite of

my neck,,

my belly,,

ginger, ,,

my tongue . You are

my draft of cider ,

lakes of it ,

golden

liquid

sparkling

its way into

a bevy

of clouds. .. . You are

my syrup, ,,

my stirrup, ,,

my cinema , ,

my cinnamon – whole

cloves of it – and an orchard

of apples

sliced

open,

their 5 pointed stars

amid rosemary. I say , add pomegranate seeds for garnish and rose.

4 sprigs of it.

merry me, Be with me

of feasting 22

´´´´ and love.

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

the evergreens

SEASONS ROTISSERIE & GRILL Mixologist: Nicole Wynnyk

Lavender Afternoon

(pictured left)

2 1/2 ounces Taos Lighting bourbon 1/2 ounce lavender simple syrup 1/2 lemon, squeezed Soda water For Lavender Syrup 1 cup water 1/3 cup dried culinary lavender buds 1 1/2 cups sugar Boil all ingredients until bubbling. Lower the heat, simmer for 15 minutes. Let cool. Double strain through cheesecloth and bottle. Shake bourbon, simple syrup, and lemon juice with ice. Fill highball glass with ice and strain ingredients into glass. Top with soda water. Garnish rim with lavender sugar. Pair with petite filet frites on the upstairs Cantina menu.

ExSqueezeMe

(not pictured)

2 orange wedges 2 lime wedges 2 grapefruit segments 1/4 ounce fresh grapefruit juice 2 ounces Reposado tequila 1/2 ounce Squirt soda Himalayan pink salt Combine fruit, juice, and tequila in mixing glass. Shake and strain into a champagne flute. Top with Squirt. Rim flute with agave nectar and dip into Himalayan pink salt. Garnished with a wedge of choice; lime, orange, or grapefruit. Pair with street tacos available on the upstairs Cantina menu. 2031 Mountain NW, Albuquerque, 505-766-5100 www.seasonsabq.com

COZY UP AND CONTEMPLATE YOUR GARDEN. We offer plants and seeds for native and edible landscapes, wildlife habitats, pollinator gardens, and non-GMO/GE vegetables and herbs, both culinary and medicinal. Thank you for supporting local business.

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GREEN CHILE, GOURDS, AND FAMILY FEASTS by Jessica Helen Lopez

When Autumn opens its crisp embrace the bounty of gourds, golden-ripe, life-giving, the purity of thick rind on the vine, the juice of the flesh growing and tumbling from earth beneath the dimming light, then we know that feast is near. When Autumn bats her sun-lit eyes, shifts her life-bearing hips and tells the farmers, in that wind-whipped voice of hers, reap now the silken tassel-headed corn, pull pumpkin and squash from the rooted earth, pluck the sweet heat of green chile from the vine, let the taste buds celebrate, tingle beneath the bold and bright flavors of an autumnal banquet from farm to table from cage and flame roasted heat to fingertips. Now is the time to draw friends and family near, gather â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;round the hearth of kitchen Now is the time to simmer the broths, light the wicks of butter-colored candles, set the table-tops with our best linens and heirloom platters Now is the time to whisk the flour, make masa and pat into rounded clouds speckled brown by cast iron skillet The sun shines a bright white on cold days like these, blowing a whispered frost against the window panes but the stove glows, the red heart of home And now is the time to uncork the wine, pop fizzing bottle caps from the amber neck of beers, sip the agave plant from fat-bottomed cups And now is the time to raise our glasses: Saludos, to the celebration of life!

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

INN OF THE ANASAZI Mixologist: Lorelee Carletti

Roasted Hatch Green Chile Margarita (pictured left) 2 ounces roasted green chile infused tequila 1/2 ounce Cointreau To create the green chile infused tequila, soak 1/2 cup green chiles in 2 cups 1800 Black Tequila for 3 – 5 days, periodically testing the mixture for the perfect balance of flavors. Once the infusion tastes balanced, mix the infused tequila with the Cointreau and serve with slices of green chile. Pair with the green chile buffalo burger.

Spiced Kiss

(pictured below)

1 1/2 ounces spiced rum 1/2 ounce Clear Creek pear brandy Top with hot apple cider

Celebrate with Someone Special Christmas Eve Dinner starting at 4pm

Christmas Day Dinner starting at 5pm

New Year’s Eve Dinner starting at 6pm

LUNCH • DINNER • BAR Reservations: 505.982.4353 653 Canyon Road compoundrestaurant.com

A Holiday Tradition for 50 Years photo: Kate Russell

Mix the rum and brandy into a martini glass and top with hot apple cider. Serve with a stick of cinnamon. Pairs with the apple tart.

113 Washington, Santa Fe, 505-988-3030 www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/inn-of-the-anasazi-santa-fe

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SATURDAY NIGHT IN LA PUEBLA by Joan Logghe

Here comes Rebecca with a box of apples in a year of freeze. From the corner of Placita and paradise, a rhapsody of crisp, a heaven of bite. In her red shirt, here comes Rebecca and I have nothing she desires, as she arrives with pure offering. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to Rebecca who loves her neighbor as much as she loves herself, loves red tart apples in October twilight, a dusk of harvest, a box of buds and blossoms, a box of rain, a box of orchard, a gift that causes us to shift gears and concoct pie or sauce or cider. I know each season has its edible equivalent as each religion has its apple. Move over Eve, here comes Rebecca to make this Saturday when we are at home at nightfall, a little bit Edenic, a taste of reaching out to feed each other this. This raw bliss.

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

DERAILED AT THE SANTA FE SAGE INN

䄀氀氀漀猀攀椀渀最猀昀漀爀琀栀攀䬀椀琀挀栀攀渀渀

Mixologist: Jessica Butler

Wigwag

(pictured left)

1 1/2 ounces Wheeler’s Western dry gin 3/4 ounce sage syrup 3/4 ounce lemon juice 1/2 ounce egg white Sage leaf for garnish

匀氀椀搀攀愀渀搀吀漀甀挀栀㨀䤀䴀倀刀䔀匀匀䄀䄀㤀䌀漀洀瀀愀挀琀Ⰰ 匀琀爀攀愀洀氀椀渀攀Ⰰ 匀琀礀氀椀猀栀⸀

Dry shake in Boston Shaker with no ice; this helps to break down the egg whites. Then add ice and shake again, in Boston Shaker. Strain contents into martini glass. Garnish with sage leaf.

New Mexico Mule

(pictured below)

1 1/2 ounces local Expedition vodka 1/2 ounce fresh lime juice Dash Bitter End Jamaican Jerk bitters 3 ounces ginger beer Lime wedge for garnish Build in mug over ice. Start with lime juice, then add vodka and ginger beer. Add a dash of Bitter End Jamaican Jerk bitters. Stir gently and garnish with lime wedge.

泰吀栀攀䤀洀瀀爀攀猀猀愀䄀㤀椀猀琀栀攀昀愀猀琀攀猀琀眀愀礀琀漀攀渀樀漀礀琀栀攀瀀攀爀昀攀挀琀挀甀瀀漀昀挀漀û攀攀⸀ 泰㄀㈀猀攀氀攀挀琀愀戀氀攀猀瀀攀挀椀愀氀琀椀攀猀眀椀琀栀琀栀攀琀漀甀挀栀漀昀愀戀甀琀琀漀渀椀渀挀氀甀搀椀渀最氀愀琀琀攀洀愀挀挀栀椀愀琀漀⸀ 泰唀猀攀爀昀爀椀攀渀搀氀礀琀漀甀挀栀猀挀爀攀攀渀搀椀猀瀀氀愀礀⸀ 泰䌀漀洀攀琀漀䰀愀猀䌀漀猀愀猀䬀椀琀挀栀攀渀匀栀漀瀀瀀攀昀漀爀愀昀爀攀攀搀攀洀漀渀猀琀爀愀琀椀漀渀⸀ 泰䰀愀猀䌀漀猀愀猀挀愀爀爀椀攀猀琀栀攀昀甀氀氀氀椀渀攀漀昀䨀甀爀愀䄀甀琀漀洀愀琀椀挀䌀漀û攀攀䴀愀挀栀椀渀攀猀⸀ 䴀愀挀栀椀渀攀

䔀愀爀渀㔀─ 戀愀挀欀眀椀琀栀漀甀爀䰀漀礀愀氀琀礀倀爀漀最爀愀洀 ጠ 倀爀椀挀攀䴀愀琀挀栀椀渀最倀漀氀椀挀礀䐀攀嘀愀爀最愀猀䌀攀渀琀攀爀Ⰰ 匀愀渀琀愀䘀攀泰㔀㔀ⴀ㤀㠀㠀ⴀ㌀㌀㤀㐀泰氀愀猀挀漀猀愀猀挀漀漀欀椀渀最 ⸀挀漀洀

SupreMe Saigon Cinnamon

Cinnamon Sugar Twists Check out our cooking classes at: savoryspiceshop.com/santafe

5 off $25

225 Galisteo Street . Santa Fe, NM 87501

725 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-982-5952 www.santafesageinn.com

(505) 819-5659 . santafe@savoryspiceshop.com Mon-Fri: 10am-6pm, Sat: 10am-5pm, Sun: 11am-4pm

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EACH ONE

by Valerie Martínez Is this a dream of glass—ringing— with these patterns of light-shine on the wall, warm to the hand above the fireplace, and wavelets of sound, voice and voice and voice, in a room where the boy, eyes at table height, stands motionless in the shuffle of suit pant pockets and peplum, squints through a highball tumbler where a dish of cranberries offers up a knot of red balloons he can separate and almost set afloat if he tilts his head left and right, and his mother, a few feet away, throws her head back with laughter, launches into her own rollicking story, catching his ears, lifting his gaze— still through glass—to the topaz moon at her earlobe, beaming down onto the rim, through liquid, back into his small brown eyes and deep into his chest until a hand, thunderous, sweeps the tumbler away and up into air, striking it repeatedly with its ring— sound stopping sound— and it lifts, this sea of glass, up and everywhere over him, starlight crush, through which comes down a singular voice and chorus— call and response— everything they wish and he now sees: May the rocks in your field, each one, turn to gold. 28

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

DOC MARTIN’S AND THE ADOBE BAR AT THE HISTORIC TAOS INN

HAPPY HOLIDAYS FROM

Mixologist: Adam Kerr

Downtown Taos

(pictured left)

2 ounces Taos Lightening rye 3/4 ounce Carpana Antiqua vermouth 2 dashes Angostura bitters Cherry garnish Combine alcohol, add ice, gentle stir with spoon, strain into chilled glass, and serve up. Remember, never bruise your brown! Pairs well with our house-smoked ribs.

Taos Inn Negroni

(pictured below)

1 ounce Wheeler’s Western dry gin 1 ounce Carpana Antiqua vermouth 1 ounce campari Orange twist garnish Combine spirits. Add ice, roll, strain into chilled glass and serve up. Pairs nicely with our seared scallops and red chile pesto sauce.

䔀䐀䤀䈀䰀䔀吀䔀堀吀䤀䰀䔀匀䠀愀渀搀ⴀ䰀漀漀洀攀搀吀攀砀琀椀氀攀猀椀渀䐀攀氀椀挀椀漀甀猀䠀甀攀猀

瘀椀猀椀琀䌀漀洀洀漀渀吀栀爀攀愀搀 ⬀ ㄀㈀㐀䈀攀渀琀匀琀爀攀攀琀 ⬀ 吀愀漀猀漀渀氀椀渀攀猀琀漀爀椀攀猀䀀䌀漀洀洀漀渀吀栀爀攀愀搀⸀䌀伀

125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-758-2233 www.taosinn.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

VINO TINTO

by Deborah Casillas In the neglected field gone now to weed and barren vines, old desires rest where grapes once grew and red wine aged slowly in the Tesuque hills, here, where years ago we filled our water bottles for a horse pawing at an empty trough, the shallow stream flowing beyond his paddock fence. Fields like this, now fallow, lead to others, a constant knitting— to Madrid, vino tinto for a few pesetas in the tascas on Calle Echegaray, strong wine for the common man, a row of tapas on the bar, shrimp shells on the floor. A sip of red stirs memories of dusty Spanish wine, fields of poppies burning orange beside the roads, an early winter’s snow falling in the Plaza Mayor, blissful days, no ties, no plans. I raise my glass to the lamplighters who made dark streets bloom in amber flame, to Goya’s fresh-faced angels drifting along a chapel’s walls, to here, now—the array of savory tapas on our plates, Baldy’s high peak iced with snow, muted flames flickering inside a row of paper bags.

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

ARTICHOKE CAFÉ

Mixologist: Julian Martinez

7505 (pictured left) Our local take on a French 75. 1 1/2 ounces Wheeler’s Western dry gin 7 grams Los Poblanos lavender 1 ounce lemon juice 1/2 ounce New Mexico honey 1/2 ounce elder syrup 3 ounces Gruet blanc de noirs Orange peel Gin infusion: Steep lavender in a 750-milliliter bottle of gin for 1 to 2 days; strain. Combine syrup, juice, and gin in a mixing vessel. Add ice. Shake. Add sparkling wine. Strain into a chilled flute. Squeeze the orange peel above the flute to mist the oil of the orange onto the surface of the cocktail; then place it over the top of the glass to garnish. Will pair well with a few of our new fall menu appetizers: duck confit poutine with french fries, cheese curds, green chile gravy, red chile crema; or smoked trout salad with tian boxty, radish, avocado purèe, aioli. 424 Central SE, Albuquerque, 505-243-0200 www.artichokecafe.com

Experience great taste through all five senses. Built on La Fonda’s original 1920s patio, La Plazuela would be picture perfect even without its storied architecture and majestic skylights. If great taste is our benchmark, service is our hallmark. Treat yourself to a culinary adventure that engages all five senses.

100 E. San Francisco St. • Santa Fe, NM 87501 505-995-2334 • www.lafondasantafe.com/la-plazuela

WI NE B IS TRO

Come and enjoy the holiday season with us! Lunch Mon-Saturday • Dinner Every Eve 304 Johnson St, Santa Fe 505-989-1166 • terracottawinebistro.com Inquire about our holiday hours

Find additional cocktails like the Class V+ pictured above on www.ediblesantafe.com/liquidassets. WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

ediblepot Santa Fe | EARLY 2015 Copper still atWINTER Algodones Distillery 32

The Spirit in the Bottle CRAFT DISTILLING IN NEW MEXICO

By Willy Carleton • Photos by Stephanie Cameron

If you distill the sun’s energy, the soil’s nutrients, and the water of the rivers and aquifers of New Mexico into a bottle, you can taste, in one sense at least, the spirit of our landscape. In search of this spirit, I recently visited Santa Fe Spirits and Algodones Distillery, two of a handful of craft distilleries across the state that are expanding locavores’ drink options with liquors that capture unique flavors of New Mexico. As we sipped a variety of whiskeys, gins, and brandys, and discussed the agricultural, legislative, and marketing hurdles each distiller faces, I discovered that the spirit of our landscape can be both exquisite and elusive. Both distilleries provide beautiful spaces to learn about craft distilling, enjoy tastings, and meet the people behind the labels. Colin Keegan, who founded Santa Fe Spirits in 2010, greeted us with a warm smile. Tucked away in a small business center just outside of town, the distillery includes a small tasting room with views into both the fermenting and distilling room, as well as into the sweet-scented barrel room where the whiskey ages. The tasting room feels more like an educational space than a bar, and for fifteen dollars they offer tours

of the distillery that include tastings. The distillery also hosts classes on cocktails and on whiskey. Keegan has since opened a larger tasting room in downtown Santa Fe and hopes to add another, possibly in Albuquerque. Keegan’s counterparts at Algodones Distillery, Greg McAllister and P. David Pacheco, provide a beautiful space to learn about and enjoy fine spirits. The small distillery, nestled among old bosque cottonwoods beside their home, has a mini tasting bar as well as outdoor seating. The distillery, licenced in 2013, is just coming into production, with their vodka and gin available now, and their blue corn whiskey, bourbon, and moonshine soon to follow. Tours are by appointment only on Saturdays. Just a taste of the many offerings at either distillery leaves little doubt that fine spirits can be made in New Mexico. Whether it was the mellow Colkegan single malt whiskey or the warming apple brandy from Santa Fe Spirits, or the dry, earthy, floral complexity of the Algodones Distillery gin, each sip induced a prolonged moment of savoring reflection and lasting satisfaction.

Left to right: Distilling room at Santa Fe Spirits; Colin Keegan in the barrel room. Page 35: Botanicals infused in Wheeler’s Western dry gin give it a particular New Mexico flavor.

A tour of either distillery not only makes for an enjoyable gustatory experience, it makes clear how much expertise, sweat, and investment goes into making fine spirits. Distilleries require more startup capital than breweries, owing in part to higher taxes, added equipment such as barrels and copper stills, and the prolonged process of aging spirits. To help overcome some of the tax-related costs and marketing hurdles, both these distilleries were instrumental in organizing the New Mexico Distillers Guild to increase their marketing voice and gain a more influential lobby in the state legislature. The guild includes Left Turn Distilling and Distillery 365 in Albuquerque, and Little Toad Creek in Silver City. Specifically, the guild hopes to expand the retail reciprocity law so that New Mexico spirits can be sold alongside New Mexico beer and wine, and to eliminate excessive liquor taxes for local distillers by expanding current micro-beer brewers’ exemptions to include micro-distillers. Several distilleries strive to source their ingredients locally. Certain ingredients, such as the botanicals that flavor gin, are readily available. Santa Fe Spirits uses local juniper berries, cholla buds, and osha in 34

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

their Wheeler’s gin; and Algodones Distillery uses local prickly pear, piñon nuts (they are the only distillery to buy local piñon, i.e. pinus edulis), desert sage, juniper berries, lavender, and rose petals in their signature gin. These ingredients impart unique local flavors that make the gins exceptional. Base ingredients, however, prove harder to procure locally. Both distilleries I visited use an extremely clean, high-grade corn-based alcohol from the Midwest for their vodkas and gins. The distilleries buy the base alcohol and “finish” it by cutting it to proof with their own water and bottling it for vodka or resdistilling it with the botanicals for gin. Santa Fe Spirits makes their whiskeys entirely from barley, which they source from the Midwest. Algodones Distillery crafts whiskey from a blend of twenty percent barley malt (sourced out of state) with eighty percent blue corn grown near San Jon, New Mexico. Santa Fe Spirit's apple brandy uses a base cider almost entirely from western Colorado apples. Keegan explains that while New Mexico has a small number of commercial orchardists, none so far have been unable to compete with Colorado growers on price.

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Malted barley is particularly difficult to find locally. It is an essential ingredient for many brewers’ and distillers’ recipes, not only because of its flavor profile but also because of its naturally occurring enzymes that convert starches to sugars. The relatively low commodity price for the grain, and the lack of a malting house in New Mexico, has so far limited barley production in the state. The rapidly growing local market, however, will hopefully encourage higher prices for local grain and the investment in a malting house. Such changes, no doubt, would entice farmers to add the fast-growing, relatively salt- and drought-tolerant cover crop into their rotations. While shifting to a local barley landscape will take time, maize provides a more readily available grain. Sorghum, a historically significant crop in New Mexico that can be dry-farmed in certain parts of the state, also provides an intriguing option for distillers to experiment with in the future. Perhaps the most resource-friendly local base ingredients are perennial, well-adapted, multi-use fruits such as apples, peaches, and grapes.

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Left to right: P. David Pacheco and Greg McAllister. Algodones Distillery's naming convention uses Spanish names and English subtitles to describe their cross cultural products.

New Mexico, in fact, has a rich history of distillers crafting local fruit into spirits. Although Simeon Turley with his (in)famous Mexican-era Taos Lightening (which, incidentally, was made from local corn and grains) is perhaps the region’s best known nineteenth-century distiller, several other distillers later in the century focused on transforming the territory’s grapes, apples, and peaches into a shippable, sippable product. In 1869, for example, Thomas Jefferson Bull, a prominent storekeeper in Mesilla, New Mexico, planted a thirty-five-acre vineyard and orchard that within a few years produced enough fruit for nearly two thousand gallons of grape, apple, and peach brandy a year. “Bull’s Brandy” became known, at least according to one enthusiastic journalist in 1888, as “the pride of Mesilla” whose “quality was known and noted from New Mexico to the Atlantic.” Today’s distilleries operate with economic and agricultural realities far different from their nineteenth-century counterparts. Nonetheless, many of New Mexico’s distilleries, to varying degrees, try to source local ingredients. The distilleries that choose local base ingredients and pay more for local speciality products, such as piñon, deserve the most support. This effort not only promotes local agriculture, it gives the product a unique flavor that sets it apart from competitors. McAllister explains that using blue corn for their whiskey, for example, is “worthwhile not only to have something that’s rooted in New Mexico 36

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

culturally,” but also because it adds “a nice flavor that makes a subtle, important difference.” Local distillers contribute to the New Mexico local food scene in significant ways. On the most basic level, they craft a superior product compared to many mass-produced spirits. They also provide important social spaces where New Mexicans can learn to appreciate the distilling and aging process and how best to enjoy their products. More broadly, supporting these distilleries not only supports their businesses, but also all the other local businesses they support—from the piñon picker to the blue corn farmer. In fact, several distilleries supply local farmers their spent grain to feed cattle and hogs. The distilleries that craft local abundance into a preservable, highly enjoyable product bring out subtle flavors of our landscape and help bring people together. Supporting these distillers, and encouraging their use of local ingredients, brings the spirit in the bottle closer to home. Santa Fe Spirits Downtown tasting room: 308 Read, Santa Fe, 505-780-5906 7505 Mallard, Santa Fe, 505-467-8892, www.santafespirits.com Algodones Distillery By appointment only: Algodones, 505-301-9992 www.algodonesdistillery.com

OTHER LOCAL PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS OF DISTILLED SPIRITS

GROWN IN ITALY

Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal, www.mezcal.com Distillery 365 2921 Stanford NE, Albuquerque, 505-221-6281 www.distillery365.com Don Quixote Winery and Distillery 18057 US 84/285, Pojoaque, 505-695-0817 www.dqdistillery.com KGB Spirits, www.kgbspirits.com

TO FLAVOR

Left Turn Distilling 2924 Girard NE, Albuquerque, 505-508-0508 www.leftturndistilling.com Little Toad Creek Brewery & Distillery Little Toad Creek Inn and Tavern, 1122 Hwy 35, Lake Roberts, 575-536-9649 Little Toad Corner Pub, 200 North Bullard, Silver City, 575-956-6144, littletoadcreekbrewerydistillery.com Silvercoin Tequila, www.santafetequilas.com

LOCAL BOTTLE SHOPS Arroyo Vino 218 Camino La Tierra, Santa Fe, 505-983-2100 www.arroyovino.com On-site restaurant.

NEW MEXICO

Hangar Beer Wine and Spirits 622 Central SE, Albuquerque, 505-850-8847 www.facebook.com/HangarABQ Jubilation Wine & Spirits 3512 Lomas NE, Albuquerque, 505-255-4404 www.jubilationwines.com

F R O M M Y FA M I LY TO YO U R S

Kokoman Fine Wine & Liquor 34 Cities of Gold, Pojoaque, 505-455-2219 La Casa Sena Wine Shop 125 E Palace, Santa Fe, 505-988-9232 www.lacasasena.com/wine-shop On-site dining. Medley. 100 NM-150, El Prado, 575-776-8787 www.medleyinelprado.com On-site dining.

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37 9/2/15 12:36 PM

Craft Beverage Industry Grows HELP COMES FROM RECENT LEGISLATIVE CHANGES By Amy White

Mike Zercher grins as he loads another bushel of apples from a huge cardboard box into a chopping machine, then dumps the chunks into his high-tech press. No quaint old-fashioned wooden cider press, this is a serious machine built for the wine industry, and it can press a whole lot of apples. A giant rubber balloon begins to inflate in the center, pressing the apples against the sides of the stainless steel cylinder, and juice streams out through slits in the metal. Santa Sidra is the only hard cider made from one hundred percent New Mexico apples. During apple season, Zercher receives about seven thousand pounds of apples each week (which yield about five hundred gallons of juice) from small orchards all over New Mexico. Farmers pull up to the back door of his facility off Cerrillos Road in old pickup trucks a few times a week to sell loads of apples that wouldn’t otherwise have been worth the cost of picking. Most of these apples are common eating varieties such as Gala, Red Delicious, Jonagold, Earligold, and Golden Delicious. Individually, they aren’t the best apples for making cider, but Zercher blends 38

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

different varieties of apples as they come in over the season to create a balanced flavor profile. The mix is different from early summer to fall, so the flavor of each batch is unique. Cider apples are tart, astringent varieties that aren’t very good for eating because they are high in tannins. Hardly anyone has grown cider apples since Prohibition, but a few New Mexico farmers still grow Winesaps, which are good for both eating and cidering. He also plans to release a single-varietal made from Winesaps next year. As cider gains popularity, perhaps there will be a market for cider apples once again. Zercher has created a market for local farmers by making use of a previously wasted crop, thus keeping about fifty thousand pounds of imperfect apples out of the arroyos each year. He estimates that probably one million pounds of such apples are produced each year in New Mexico, so he’s got a long way to go before the market is tapped out. And business is growing, thanks to a slew of legislative changes that make it easier for him to get his product to market.

This year, several revisions to New Mexico’s Liquor Control Act have opened up a number of exciting new options for craft beverage artisans. Producers have worked together with the state’s Alcohol and Gaming Division to move the industry forward and make it easier for small producers to get started. The bigger the market for local craft beer, spirits, cider, and wine, the more local jobs will be created in service, manufacturing, and agriculture. Craft brewers are happy, wine growers are happy, and cider makers may benefit most of all. “In the past five years, we’ve seen more changes than in the previous twenty years,” says Rod Tweet of Second Street Brewery in Santa Fe. “I’m kind of surprised at how high-profile the brewing industry has become, and I think that really showed at the legislature. Craft brewing has really become a going concern. It used to be kind of an offbeat career choice, and now it’s definitely considered a real career/industry by the mainstream. In the last two years, the craft beer market has shown seventeen percent growth, yet beer consumption is flat. Big breweries are losing market share, and we’re picking it up.” As New Mexico’s craft beverage industry gains momentum, producers explore new ways of using local ingredients. Cider and wine are clearly tied to local fruit production, but many craft brewers are interested in growing the capacity of local agriculture to supply their ingredients, too. New Mexico is home to its own unique subspecies of wild hops, Humulus lupulus var. neomexicanus, and thanks to a decade of plant breeding research, it’s becoming more attractive to brewers. Abbey Brewing in Abiquiu has been growing and using these hops for a few years already, and also sells limited quantities for homebrewing. Now Santa Fe Brewing has planted three varieties bred from native hops on a seven-acre farm they purchased in 2013 near Dixon. They brewed a few small batches using this year’s crop, which sold out quickly in their main taproom. The hops must be used fresh within twenty-four hours of picking, because the flavor fades quickly unless they are vacuum sealed and frozen. This is the key challenge with using local hops, because the equipment for drying and pelletizing hops would be a huge investment that’s simply not feasible at this scale. Barley might actually be easier to produce in New Mexico, because it’s similar to wheat in its growing requirements, and is much simpler to store and process than hops. Some areas of Colorado already grow barley, and it’s likely that New Mexico could also get into the business. Trials have been underway for growing barley in Farmington since 2012. Both Los Lunas and Las Cruces are looking at building malting facilities in the future. Matt Simonds of Albuquerque's Distillery 365 uses as much New Mexico corn as he can procure (nearly one hundred percent, but sometimes it varies) to make his incredibly smooth Holy Ghost Vodka. After cooking the mash and fermenting, he distills the liquor in three passes through a four-stage distillation column. The result is delicately sweet, with almost no burn and

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Top left, clockwise: Michael Zercher loads Santa Sidraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cider press; Rod Tweet of Second Street Brewery samples his wares; and Matt Simonds of Distillery 365 with Holy Ghost vodka. 40

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

no harsh aftertaste. Simonds is deeply committed to sourcing locally, and was happily surprised to discover a supplier of New Mexico grown corn that actually turned out to be cheaper than the big industrial suppliers. He initially intended to make bourbon and gin, but he’s selling the vodka as fast as he can make it, so he can’t yet spare any of the corn to start the aging and infusing processes those other liquors require. Several other new craft distilleries also use New Mexico products such as blue corn, apples, local botanicals, pecans, and piñon nuts in their spirits (see page 33). Wine production has grown to approximately eight hundred thousand gallons per year, and the New Mexico Wine Growers Association has grown to more than fifty members, with at least one new vineyard being planted this year. The New Mexico Brewers Guild has grown from thirty breweries in 2012 to more than sixty in 2015, with many more slated to open in the next year. And since 2009, the number of craft distillers in the state has grown from one to seven, forming the New Mexico Distillers Guild. To understand how the legislative changes affect brewers, wine and cider makers, and distillers, it helps to know a little about the different types of licenses under which these producers operate. In simplest terms, each licensee is allowed to manufacture their own product, sell it to wholesalers, and to operate a certain number of taprooms or tasting rooms where they may sell by the glass as well as in packaged form for off-premises consumption. A small brewer’s license allows a brewery to produce up to two hundred thousand barrels (about six million gallons) per year. Wine and cider makers operate under a wine grower’s license, which has no limit on gallons produced, but does require that except during periods of shortage, fifty percent of annual production for sale in New Mexico must come from fruit grown within the state. A craft distiller’s license allows the distiller to produce up to one hundred fifty thousand proof gallons (meaning a gallon of liquid at sixty degrees Fahrenheit that contains fifty percent ethyl alcohol by volume) with a minimum production requirement of one thousand proof gallons. Craft brewers led the charge this year on five major changes, all of which passed unanimously at the legislature, says Chris Goblet of the New Mexico Brewers Guild. They range from things as simple as defining and explicitly allowing the sale of growlers (for wine and cider also) to more esoteric regulatory changes that nevertheless have an important impact on the economics of craft beverage production. One thing that more established breweries are excited about is the increase from two to three off-site taprooms that small brewers can operate. This creates parity with wine growers, who have been allowed three off-site tasting rooms for many years. “The additional taproom is a real benefit,” says Brian Lock of Santa Fe Brewing. “It’s an opportunity for brewers to expose the general public to specialty beers that they might not be able to sell enough of from one taproom.” Probably the most significant change allows reciprocity between New Mexico’s small brewers, cider makers, and wine growers, meaning that they can all sell each other’s products in their tasting rooms. Before this

Top: Brian Lock of Santa Fe Brewing Company is on-site at their hops farm in Rinconada, spring of 2015. Bottom: Hops growing. Photos courtesy of SFBC.

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year, New Mexico breweries could sell beer made by other small breweries, and wineries could sell each other’s wines, but the crossover between the two categories will do a lot to improve craft beverage culture. A bill including small distilleries in reciprocity with brewers and wine growers passed both houses of the legislature, only to die on the governor’s desk. However, they are allowed to sell other New Mexico distillers’ products in up to three off-site tasting rooms. Lock says reciprocity has been huge for Santa Fe Brewing’s two off-site taprooms. Sales at their Eldorado location have increased by twenty percent since they began offering wine and cider, and they’re selling well in the new Albuquerque taproom, too. Wineries will benefit immensely from reciprocity, says Beverly Stotz, executive director of the New Mexico Wine Growers Association, mainly because many people want to have their wedding at a winery but have been deterred because they weren’t able to serve beer. Another change that will benefit wine and cider makers is a provision allowing them to do internet sales via third-party websites like Amazon. Cider makers are perhaps the biggest beneficiaries of these two changes. Because they make alcoholic beverages from fruit, they operate under a wine grower’s license, so they are included in the internet sales provision. Yet their product is more similar to beer and people are more likely to be interested in drinking it in a pub setting, so reciprocity with breweries helps them get their product out. “It’s basically doubled my business,” says Zercher. “Within the first month, Marble [Brewery] became my biggest customer.” Santa Sidra is now sold in more than a dozen brewery taprooms statewide. Reciprocity opens up a huge opportunity to build demand, and Zercher hopes to open his own taproom next year. Another important change, fondly known as the “stranded brewpubs” provision, affects brewpubs such as Second Street Brewery in Santa Fe and Chama River Brewing Company in Albuquerque. With a brewpub-type license, they could only serve New Mexico-made craft beer, so the next logical step was to get a restaurant beer and wine license to better serve their restaurant patrons. But by holding that license they were forced to give up the right to distribute their own beer in packaged form to other restaurants, bars, or retailers, as other breweries could. Alcohol sales in New Mexico, as in most states, generally operate under the three-tier system: producers sell their product to distributors, who sell it to retailers. At its root, this system is intended to prevent monopolies from controlling the entire supply chain. The key role of the distributor (or wholesaler) is to get New Mexico beers out to a wider audience through their larger networks, and to create healthy competition by getting a wide array of products into the retail market. But if this system is strictly enforced, it’s difficult for small producers to get started. New Mexico has actually been quite progressive, allowing small brewers to self-distribute long before most other states. Wholesalers are generally in favor of allowing producers to self-distribute, because 42

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it’s a good way to prove there is adequate demand before ramping up production to a level that would make it worthwhile for either party. So the “stranded brewpub” fix allows breweries that operate with a restaurant license to get into that game. The last change, a structure called alternating proprietorship, applies to wine, beer, and cider makers as well as craft distillers. This allows a larger brewery, who might have extra capacity, to rent time in their facility to another brewer. This opens up a valuable opportunity for small brewers to get started if they don’t yet have the resources to invest in their own equipment. Or, for example, if a smaller brewery has a very popular beer and they want to brew a larger batch, they could use a larger brewery’s facility while still keeping their business separate. The difference between this arrangement and contract brewing is that the small brewer uses its own labor and expertise, sources its own raw materials, and retains the intellectual property of its own recipes. The small brewer also keeps its own records and pays its own excise taxes, whereas in a contract brewing arrangement they are basically just a wholesaler. Essentially, alternating proprietorship is similar to the way that small food businesses can get started at the South Valley Economic Development Center’s commercial kitchen Overall, 2015 has been a very good year for the craft beverage industry, with legislation setting up favorable conditions for growth by making it easier for small-scale beer, wine, and cider makers to get started and to get their products out to a wider market. Craft distilleries are still just getting started, but the industry is gaining momentum rapidly. As Goblet says, “every brewer, cider maker, distiller, winemaker, or chef has their own secret recipes and techniques, but at the end of the day we all want to see each other succeed. We’d rather see consumers drinking local than buying from the big international conglomerates.” There’s still work to be done. New Mexico is still five to seven years behind Oregon’s craft brewing industry, says Goblet, but we’re making great progress. Craft distillers still have a ways to go, yet the industry’s recent growth is encouraging. “In addition to the continued pursuit of equal reciprocity among manufacturers,” says Simonds, “our big legislative goal currently is excise tax reform. Winemakers and brewers enjoy a nice tax break when manufacturing on a craft scale, and distillers are looking for a similar treatment.” Craft beverage artisans, in many ways, lead in the local food movement, because there is so much demand for their product. It’s exciting to see this industry taken seriously as an important part of New Mexico’s economy. The commitment of producers like Zercher and Simonds to sourcing locally is inspiring, and the growing interest of many others gives much hope for the future of the local food economy. Santa Sidra, www.santasidra.com Second Street Brewery, www.secondstreetbrewery.com Santa Fe Brewing Company, www.santafebrewing.com Distillery 365, www.distillery365.com New Mexico Brewers Guild, nmbeer.org New Mexico Wine Growers Association, www.nmwine.com New Mexico Distillers Guild, www.nmguild.distillery365.com

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Nectar of the Gods THE SANTA FE BOURBON REVOLUTION STARTS WITH RADISH & RYE By Allison Muss • Photos by Stephanie Cameron

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

In 1937, in response to a request for the formula to mix mint juleps, Lieutenant General S.B. Buckner Jr. of Kentucky wrote: “A mint julep is not the product of a formula. It is a ceremony and must be performed by a gentleman possessing a true sense of the artistic, a deep reverence for the ingredients and a proper appreciation of the occasion.” Aptly displayed in their menus, Buckner’s letter captures the general philosophy of Radish & Rye and the passion of owners Dru Ruebush, Camille Bremer, and Quinn Stephenson: “Our restaurant isn’t the mere product of a formula,” explains co-owner Dru Ruebush. “From bar to kitchen to service, the concept is instead the product of purpose.” According to their mission, R&R “is an expression of [our] values, creativity, and love of this community.” There is no formula for that. “Sustainability is important,” explains Ruebush, “so we opened our doors as a farm-to-table, bourbon-centric restaurant.” Like farm-to-table dining, the bourbon trail can be highly sustainable when distillers buy local grain and turn its waste into energy or use it for feed. Barrels are reused by other liquor makers or are torn apart for the staves to be used separately. And with a Southern twist to the menu (fried green tomatoes are the most popular dish), it seemed apropos—and purposeful—to feature seventy selections of the South’s most popular spirit, including classic bourbon cocktails with a modern handcrafted twist. Ultimately, Radish & Rye was born. With it came the Santa Fe bourbon revolution. Bourbon is a traditionally American spirit made from at least fifty-one percent corn and aged in unused charred oak barrels. It must be bottled at eighty-plus proof. Strongly associated with the American South and viewed as a Southern septuagenarian gentleman’s drink, the recent US cocktail renaissance has sparked a resurgence of bourbon and made the mahogany-colored beverage hip among millennial trendsetters. Stephenson, an R&R co-owner, sommelier, and master mixologist, brings a “true sense of the artistic” and a passion for combining elixirs to his extensive artisanal bourbon cocktail menu. When available, Stephenson's refreshing, insidiously intoxicating mint julep is all the rage; its seductive sweetness masks the fact that it’s virtually straight bourbon! This is not surprising since mixology brings the culinary arts to the world of alcohol, expanding the Left: Signature Nightcap For 2 with bourbon, cream, espresso, vanilla, and egg. Signed with cinnamon.

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edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

concept of what cocktails can be. Stephenson also has a commanding knowledge of spirits and flavor pairings. His “reverence for the ingredients” inspires him to thoughtfully create signature cocktails that encourage locals to open their minds to something beyond the quintessential New Mexican tequila margarita. “Because there’s such a wide range of flavors,” says Ruebush, “trying high-end bourbon is the only way to appreciate the spirit’s layers and nuances. With each taste, each sip, each pairing, we offer the palate an opportunity to become educated and amenable to new flavors, however subtle. But it’s not necessarily important to understand the flavor differences, because drinking bourbon is like drinking wine—it’s very personal.” He continues, “We offer Santa Feans a cocktail culture beyond margaritas. Bourbon opens a whole new world for them and is a nice respite from the typical New Mexican flavors.” By contrast, out-of-towners tend to favor bourbon cocktails that add a Southwestern twist by fusing a classic cocktail with local New Mexican flavors. R&R's 505 Manhattan, for example, blends bourbon, carpano vermouth, cacao, and mole bitters (see recipe on page 19). Ruebush explains that bourbon’s large post-Prohibition spectrum of flavors and taste profiles are a result of modern analytics and the refined palates of master distillers. Woodford Reserve, for example, manipulates its distilling cycles based on how weather affects the expansion and contraction of the barrels, while Buffalo Trace controls temperature and evaporation by aging barrels at different elevations. And then there’s small-batch bourbon. Unlike mass-produced bourbon, which requires consistency and predictability, small-batch offers the option to explore complex new flavors. “We’re proud to be the only restaurant in Santa Fe offering such a wide selection of bourbon. In fact,” says Ruebush, “we’re mostly responsible for the increased allotment of bourbon to the state of New Mexico. In turn, we’ve markedly increased the audience for this time-honored liquor.”

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"When all is ready, assemble your guests…in the garden, where the aroma of the juleps will rise Heavenward and make the birds sing. Propose a worthy toast, raise the goblet to your lips, bury your nose in the mint, inhale a deep breath of its fragrance and sip the nectar of the gods.” Buckner’s words, however unintentional, describes the Radish & Rye experience. In the spirit of his salutation, “Being overcome by thirst, I can write no further.” 548 Agua Fria, Santa Fe, 505-930-5325, www.radishandrye.com

Top left, clockwise: Dru Ruebush and Camille Bremer; steak tartare with calabria, lime oil, quail yolk, and crostini; Radish & Rye’s bar back; figaro with fig-infused bourbon and balsamic reduction; and fried green tomatoes with pimento cheese. WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

Consistently Good OHORI’S MAKES MICRO-ROASTING A FAMILY AFFAIR By Laura Jean Schneider • Photos by Stephanie Cameron

The heart of Ohori's: 1965 vintage German-made Probat UG-15 coffee roaster.

Ohori’s Coffee Roasters seems like the ideal escape from the chilly October Santa Fe morning. I follow a low-lighted hall to emerge into a space with large windows and high ceilings, sliding doors that open onto a brick patio, and shelves displaying tea and coffee goods for purchase. The music is at a just-audible level. Two tattooed twentysomething baristas move fluidly at the counter, making lattes and hand-scooping bulk coffee from bins of fresh-roasted beans. I’m delighted to find my favorite Montana-made Bequet caramels on the counter among the sweets. There’s original art on the walls, and I’ll find out later that’s unique to this Ohori’s location—and there’s no commission to hang a show. In her late thirties, General Manager Tai Ayers looks years younger. Her short dark hair is lively, like her demeanor. As she leads the way to her upstairs office, we gather her mother, Pema Ayers, who’s visiting 48

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

from Hawaii. Sam Brinegar, Tai’s husband and Ohori’s primary bean roaster, glances up briefly from the computer where he’s working on payroll. Larry Ayers, Tai’s father, is in and out, at one point examining the icon on a glazed Ohori’s mug—handmade in Colorado—audibly wondering if they should alter the design. Looking through Ayers’ office windows, I can see the whole floor plan of the coffee shop. Indoor seating provides a half dozen or so tables with chairs, and the patio is always open. Tai explains the challenge of providing seating, knowing a café plan is difficult to pull off in Santa Fe, where most social gatherings happen in private homes. The original Ohori’s was basic: they sold pounds of fresh-roasted beans to take home, with a complimentary black coffee to go. But some customers expressed the need for a space to sit and enjoy a latte or cappuccino and connect to Wi-Fi. In the twelve years that she’s

been general manager, Tai has made some changes. She’s added dairy and dairy-free options and mixed coffee drinks to the menu. And, she confides, it’s been nice to have two locations offering distinct atmospheres: 505 Cerrillos is oriented around gathering, while the original location on South Saint Francis Drive, with limited seating and a drive-through window, is a better choice for people on the go. As I sink into the couch in Tai’s office, I sip an urn-brewed cup of micro-roasted black Sumatra. It’s perfect to my taste: dark and strong. I don’t add anything. I savor it as she and her mother give me the Ohori’s backstory. Founder Susan Ohori used the same German-made Probat UG-15 coffee roaster that Brinegar uses today. Ohori learned the art of roasting beans from Alfred Peet of Peet’s Coffee, who Pema refers to as “the grandfather” of Ohori’s. Ohori was the first person to provide fresh-roasted beans to Santa Fe, and when she wanted to sell her business in 2002, her accountant from the start, Larry Ayers, and his wife Pema shared that passion. When I ask why they retained the Ohori’s name after purchasing the business, Pema acts as if it’s self explanatory: Why would they have changed what was already iconic and successful? She lets me in on what seems to be a little-known fact for an established Santa Fe business: Ohori’s is not an Irish name, she points out, but a Japanese surname. And, if you study their logo, it has a definitive East Asian feel. Since purchasing Ohori’s, Larry and Pema have amicably parted ways but have remained joint owners. In fact, all three Ayers and Brinegar are in the process of becoming equal owners. While it seems natural that the only child of coffee shop owners might be part of the business some day, that was not Tai’s original intention. She started skiing when she was two years old; ski racing at seven. Home educated, she participated in the US Ski Team C-Team youth training program through high school. Some of Ayers’ teammates ended up at the Olympics, where she was headed, but ultimately she decided that period of her life was complete. During our visit, Tai scrolls through her phone and shows me a recent photograph: a coffee table heaped with medals, trophies, and racing suits. A house fire last year forced her to confront her storage, and she felt it was time to part with her memorabilia. The trophies went to an organization that recycles them for new awards, and she discarded everything else. When her daughter asked about keeping something back, Tai told her she could earn her own medals, encouraging yet another generation of motivated female achievers. After competitive skiing, Tai majored in environmental studies at Middlebury College. She moved overseas and was a Tibetan-to-English translator until her parents bought Ohori’s. Like many of the people she now employs, she often used barista work as a fill-in for employment lapses and holidays. It eventually gave her the coffee bug, and she found her niche in the family business by becoming general manager in 2003.

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From left clockwise: Sam Brinegar opening the roasting chute; the Ohori's team from left to right Larry Ayers, Tai Ayers, Sam Brinegar, and Pema Ayers; coffee beans cooling in the roaster.

“There are still people who don’t know that Ohori’s ever changed hands,” Tai tells me, a testament both to the dedicated customers who’ve been coming for their Joe since the 1980s, and to a consistent product. It’s hard for independent businesses to last thirty-one years, but according to Pema, “[Ohori’s] forte is keeping the quality of coffee up.” While it’s trendy now to value quality over quantity, Ohori’s has weathered economic fluctuations by providing something many people afford regardless of a shifting income: a good cup of coffee. Tai has a knack for staying abreast of trends, discerning what will enjoy longevity and what is simply a fad. Pour-over coffee is at Ohori’s to stay. Buttered coffee, a paleo trend, has stuck. Flat whites—an Australian import that’s basically a latte with less foam—have been the rage lately, and if you ask for one, you’ll get it, although it hasn’t made menu status quite yet. She’s seen a shift as Santa Fe residents become more active and outdoor oriented. So, they’re providing “coffee for the health conscious.” Ohori’s doesn’t use syrups and artificial sweeteners; they still offer a free refill; and they’ve always been coffee purists, starting from the bean up. Bags of green coffee beans, which weigh from one hundred thirty to one hundred fifty pounds (after roasting, there’s twenty to twenty-five percent shrinkage), are acquired through reputable bean brokers. “I be50

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lieve in our relationships,” Tai says of their interactions with their brokers, and Ohori’s new pricing means better wages for the coffee farmers living on the equatorial strip where arabica beans grow. Pema and Brinegar taste-test coffee until they find a fit for their menu. That’s twelve to twenty tastes per variety, and Ohori’s offers over thirty kinds of specialty coffee, including decaf and blends, which are also one hundred percent arabica. “All arabica, all the time,” Pema states emphatically. Although I’m a coffee drinker, I have to ask why this matters. The robusta species grows at lower elevations and can be machine harvested. The green beans, though higher in caffeine content, trade for about half the price of arabica beans. Arabica beans are picked completely by hand, and have almost sixty percent more lipids, which roasting enhances. Ohori’s 1965 Probat is a true micro-roaster, with a maximum capacity of just thirty pounds. It’s all manual, unlike many contemporary computer-controlled machines, and it requires a vigilant, educated handler like Brinegar to produce properly roasted beans. While the Third Wave coffee drinker often prefers light roasts, Tai believes that heating to at least a medium roast brings out a bean’s best flavor. But caffeine content might be partially responsible for the light roast trend: Tai claims an average bean roasted lightly has thirty percent more caffeine content than the same bean at a dark roast.

And it’s not just arabica beans that denote specialty coffee; it’s the water to coffee ratio. Ohori’s uses one pound of ground beans per gallon of water for their urn coffee, which explains why my Sumatra is so stout. And they sell a true sixteen-ounce pound—which still comes with a free cup of coffee—unlike many retailers now using similar packaging for just twelve ounces of product. That burnt taste associated with coffee from big-name chains? Tai divulged, “It’s probably rancid.” The lipids start to age after roasting, but especially after grinding. At Ohori’s, old beans are never consumed; they’re composted. For the first time in a decade, Ohori’s is raising their prices. In addition to reflecting inflation, the new prices, effective in November, emphasize their effort toward more sustainable business practices. Just switching to green cups increased Ohori’s cost per cup over one hundred percent. But she’s enthusiastic about working with the city of Santa Fe’s new recycling and composting program, Reunity Resources. I could sense her environmentalist roots beneath her vision for Ohori’s. “By next month, eighty percent of our trash will be recycled or composted,” she shares, adding that she’s especially thrilled that the composting system will use what’s already in Santa Fe to produce healthy soil for Santa Fe residents. While the micro-roasting trend is finally catching up to what Ohori’s has been doing for three decades, they’re not changing anything. Underlying every decision is Ohori’s commitment to putting “an affordable cup of coffee” into the hands of everyone from construction

workers to city council members. With its down-to-earth vibe and dedication to quality, it’s not surprising Ohori’s has been named Best of Santa Fe by Santa Fe Reporter seven of the last ten years. A recent issue of Travel and Leisure listed them among the five best places to get coffee and tea in Santa Fe. Ohori’s employs twenty people, ranging between eighteen and forty years old, many of whom are parents. Tai understands being a barista isn’t generally a lifelong career—“barista work is hard on bodies,” she admits—but she “supports individuals on their paths.” While they’ve used radio and select print publications for advertising in the past, Ohori’s now has Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram accounts. Tai describes social media as “a new way of word of mouth,” continuing an Ohori’s tradition twenty-first-century style. When I ask about plans for the future, Tai shrugs and laughs. She tells me “the heart of Ohori’s is our roaster.” And it’s a rare vintage item no longer being produced. While they sell beans wholesale and may consider opening another location, Ohori’s has no intention of becoming so big that they sacrifice the quality and consistency they are known for. Tai is committed to managing a sustainable, local, family-operated business that she and her husband can pass on to their children—should they find their own unique paths into the business, like their mother did. 505 Cerrillos and 1098 South St. Francis, Santa Fe 505-982-9692, www.ohoriscoffee.com

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Drink Your Greens A TASTY WAY TO BOOST YOUR NUTRITION

By Katherine Mast ∙ Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Top left clockwise: Rasa cold-pressing greens; drink your greens from Verde, Squeezed, and Rasa.

It’s early Sunday morning. A gentle, steady motor whirrs in the back production room. I’m in the bright, sparsely decorated front room at Verde, a popular new juice shop in Santa Fe. Kelly Egolf, who opened the juice shop exactly one year ago, pulls bottles with vibrant liquids from a tall, glass-doored refrigerator, offering me tastes of the various green, red, orange, and nearly purple drinks. My allergies had flared up that morning, and she noticed right away. “I have something that will help,” she tells me, pouring a taste of Spicy Sunrise. The bright red carrot-beet-orange-cucumber-et.al. juice was smooth and soothing, with a final kick of warming, nasal-clearing cayenne pepper. Verde is one of a handful of local juice purveyors who transform crunchy, dense raw vegetables and fruit into bright, good-for-you drinks through a cold-press juicing process. Billed as the very best of all juicing methods, cold-pressing is just one of a variety of avenues to drinkable vegetables. It uses a slow grinding process to chew the produce into tiny bits, then squeezes out nearly all the liquid with a hydraulic press in a process that is much like making apple cider. Verde, 52

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which juices five hundred fifty pounds of produce each day, uses a floor model that stands in the middle of the spotless, open kitchen. Rasa Kitchen and Juice, which has provided Santa Fe with juice for the past seven years, uses two smaller table-top Norwalk models, which owner Wendy Borger describes as super-slow mulchers. Because cold-pressing takes a long time, Verde, Rasa, and Squeezed, Albuquerque’s juicery, all make their juice blends ahead of time and sell them in bottles. None of these juicers pasteurize their products— the high heat of pasteurization kills both good and bad bacteria and can denature the enzymes that are part of what makes fresh juice so attractive to so many people. It’s a huge part of what makes fresh juice different from the bottled varieties available at grocery stores. Not pasteurizing precludes local operations from selling their products anywhere but their own stores. If you want to buy juice from Squeezed, for example, you’ll have to go to one of their three storefront locations or track down their mobile food truck, The Juice Wagon, usually parked at 7900 San Pedro Boulevard NE in Albuquerque.

Squeezed offers a staggering nineteen juice blends, while Rasa currently carries six cold-pressed juices, and Verde bottles twelve, with some seasonal rotation. Each juice blend is a careful creation, made to offer a variety of nutrients and great taste. Sometimes customers want to make their own mixes, says Ryan Fellows, who owns Squeezed with his wife, Vickie. Squeezed processes made-to-order juices differently, using a centrifugal juicer, which is the style most common for home juicing. Centrifugal juicers send the produce through a quickly spinning, fine mesh grate, while the juice flies out to the edges and flows into a reservoir below. The process is much faster but produces a lower juice yield, and some worry that the higher heat and exposure to oxygen will denature the plant enzymes. A third way to drink your veggies is through smoothies. Unlike juicing, which separates the liquid from the plant fibers, smoothies blend the entire plant into a satisfying, rich slurry. Borger, who is also a clinical Ayurvedic specialist, says smoothies are great for people with healthy digestion; they are dense and retain the fiber, which are critical to a healthy diet, but are best served cold and take more energy to digest. Keeping those fibers slows down nutrient absorption compared to juice. “Smoothies can themselves be a full meal,” says Borger, adding that they can include just about anything you want, while juice “is a great way to get nutrients and add vegetables without the bulk.” All of our local juice producers are committed to sourcing organic produce, and they take extra steps toward environmental sustainability. They all compost the pulp leftover from juicing, and both Egolf and Borger source as much of their produce from nearby farms as possible, shopping at the farmers market, ordering in bulk through La Montañita Co-op, and working directly with local farmers. Egolf includes cucumber in many of her blends and has partnered with Red Mountain Farms in Abiquiu for her entire supply. “They planted a field for us on a handshake,” says Egolf, who knows what a risk that was for a farm to commit to a brand new business. “I think it paid off for both of us,” she says, and hopes to develop more relationships with other local farms. Egolf says the biggest challenges to sourcing locally are scale and price. There’s not much of a wholesale economy for the types of produce Egolf wants to buy. A lot of regional farmers sell at farmers markets where they can fetch prices twice as high as what Egolf pays for wholesale produce from California. It’s a conversation she is deeply involved in, encouraging more regional growers to grow more, and more sustainably. “It’s our biggest social mission,” she says. It’s been a good year for Verde, which employs more than a dozen people. Verde will open a second storefront in downtown Santa Fe—before the end of the year, if all goes as planned—and their flagship San Mateo store is slated for a facelift. With the expansion in space, Egolf plans to add some solid to-go breakfast and lunch foods to the menu. “There’s a demand for more healthy, convenient food in Santa Fe, especially breakfast options,” says

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Egolf. Right now, the best bet for a quick grab-and-go morning meal is a breakfast burrito, which is typically loaded with saturated fats. Verde's menu will include a chia seed pudding, gourmet popcorns, and spiced sprouted nuts to their array of juice blends. “We want to be that better-for-you brand,” she says. Solid foods and warm drinks have also long been part of Rasa’s offerings, an extensive contemporary vegan menu built on Ayurvedic principles, with items like falafel salad, kimchi dumplings, and thai salad with zucchini noodles. Tucked in a converted industrial area, from the exterior Rasa is unassuming. Through their doors is a warm, welcoming room that feels more like a friend’s kitchen than a commercial space. The large doorway at the far end of the dining room opens into the main kitchen, and a row of simple natural wood cabinets hangs over a countertop and kitchen sink. “Having a beautiful space was part of our goal,” says Borger. It’s the perfect spot for yogis from the studio next door and rock climbers from the gym around the corner to swing in for post-workout refreshment. Drinking fresh juice isn’t cheap, though. A single bottle of coldpressed juice will run nine dollars. Some people balk at the price, says Egolf, but when you start to consider just how much it takes to fill one of her sixteen-ounce bottles—two to three pounds of produce—the price begins to make more sense. One of Verde’s most popular drinks, Green Goddess, combines the sweetness of pineapple with the earthy richness of kale, spinach, wheatgrass, parsley and carrots, and the grit of chia and pumpkin seeds. Verde purchases nearly all organic fruits and veggies, increasing the cost to produce each bottle. Throw in expensive herbs like ginger or turmeric, the price escalates quickly. “For home juicing, the cost is actually a lot higher than you’d think,” says Egolf. And, she reminds me, there’s the hassle factor of prepping the veggies and cleaning up.

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An even greater commitment—of time, money, and willpower—are the cleanses that each juicer offers. Sign up for a single day cleanse or a multi-day regimen, and you’ll get a series of juices to drink in a prescribed order over the course of the day. Egolf, who nursed herself back to health on homemade juices and nut milks after a major jaw surgery left her unable to eat solid food for four months, carefully considers the nutritional and caloric elements of each juice and suggests a specific order to flow with your day. Borger, who is also certified in Panchakarma, the Ayurvedic system of cleansing and rejuvenating the body and mind, offers a variety of cleanses that incorporate more traditional Ayurvedic practices. Cleansing through diet not only helps reset the digestive system, but also can help reduce some of the emotional attachments we carry around food, says Borger. Photos left: 1. Wendy Borger of Rasa pressing greens. 2. Vickie and Ryan Fellows of Squeezed. 3. One of Rasa's tempting treats, vegan ice cream. 4. Kelly Egolf of Verde. 5. Chris Rodriguez loads the floor press with beets. 6. Nut-made cheese plate from Rasa. 7. Beet pulp from Verde's cold press. 8. Cyanne Garcia juicing at Squeezed. 9. Bright colors of Squeezed's Nob Hill locations.

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There’s a lot of debate over just how beneficial juices are for your health, and what ingredients, and by what processes. The internet is awash in claims that cleansing—or detoxing—can cure ailments from arthritis to cancer, which Egolf says are “too much of a promise.” Cleanses may flush out toxins and reset the digestive system, and many people swear by the powerfully positive experiences they’ve had. On the flip side are equally vocal arguments that juicing detoxes are at best a waste of money, and worse, potentially harmful. It’s a challenging debate because few rigorous scientific studies, the gold standard for Western medicine, confirm or refute these claims. In December 2014, Hosen Kiat, a professor and the head of cardiology at Australia’s Macquire University, and Alice Klein, a researcher from the university’s Cardiac Health Institute, published a comprehensive review of the literature on detox diets in The Journal of Human Nutrition and Dietetics. They discussed a few studies that found positive results when testing certain dietary elements—like citric acid, coriander, and chlorella—in helping animals expel heavy metals. Their overarching analysis, however, was this: “A handful of clinical studies have shown that commercial detox diets enhance liver detoxification and eliminate persistent organic pollutants from the body, although these studies are hampered by flawed methodologies and small sample sizes.” Both the prevalence of synthetic chemicals in our daily lives and the growing interest in detox diets merit further, and more comprehensive, studies, they suggest.

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Juice detoxes are a realm where there just isn’t evidence to back it up, says Wendy Johnson, a doctor and the medical director of La Familia Medical Center in Santa Fe. “I’m someone who is open to alternative medicines,” she says, recognizing that some supplements and alternative treatments don’t get rigorous clinical studies because there isn’t pharmaceutical industry backing. “There might not be evidence for something that really does work.” One thing is certain—good nutrition is critical for good health. If you’ve traded out a donut for a glass of juice, you’ve done your body a favor. “The way you eat is the ultimate self-care,” says Borger. And in the US, most of us could do with more fruits and veggies. Only one in four Americans gets the recommended amount of fruits, and one in nine eats enough vegetables, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Packing two to three pounds of veggie nutrition into a delicious drink is one convenient, satisfying way to help us get more. Squeezed Juice Bar 7900 San Pedro NE, Albuquerque, 505-821-1437 3339 Central Ave NE, Albuquerque, 505-717-1407 1751 Rio Rancho SE, Rio Rancho, 505-219-2597 www.squeezedjuices.com RASA Juice Bar 815 Early, Santa Fe, 505-989-1288, www.rasajuice.com Verde Juice 851 W San Mateo, Santa Fe, 505-780-5151, www.verdejuice.com Watch for Downtown Santa Fe location opening soon.

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

Spring Frost TRIALS AND TRIBULATIONS IN A NEW MEXICAN VINEYARD By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher · Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Santa Ana Pueblo's thirty-acre vineyard on the east side of I-25, north of Bernalillo.

This summer, on my way to visit the blue corn mill at Santa Ana Pueblo for a story in the fall issue, I got a call that a lead on a new vineyard in New Mexico had fallen through. I had been excited to research New Mexico’s growing viticulture sector, and I shared my disappointment with Joseph Bronk, agricultural enterprises director at the Pueblo. He turned to me and said, “Well, do you want to go see our vineyard?” About a mile north of Bernalillo on the east side of I-25, Santa Ana planted a thirty-acre vineyard in May 2014. With no signage, this endeavor has surely been a curiosity for many commuters on their way to or from Santa Fe. After helping to expand their blue corn business and native plant nursery, Bronk sought a new project to generate revenue for the Pueblo and to put more of their acres and water into production—this vineyard was that next step.

After a tour of the mill, we headed to the vineyard to see the five acres of chardonnay, five acres of pinot meunier, and twenty acres of pinot noir vines heavy with grapes in varying stages of ripening. Bronk explained that the grapes this year wouldn’t be used for winemaking. For second-year vines, they produced unexpectedly well, so he hadn’t lined up a buyer, although the entire 2016 crop is slated to head down the road to Gruet Winery where they will make the grapes into their famous sparkling wine. For still wine production, vines are often pruned intensively to focus the plant’s energy into grape production. At the same time, winemakers want flavor concentrated in these grapes, and put a premium on acres where the grape yield is limited to a certain number of pounds. For example, winemakers will often demand premium chardonnay grape yields be limited to between two to two and a half tons

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Left to right: Rick Hobson of Milagro Vineyards; pinot grapes on the vine at Santa Ana Pueblo.

per acre, even though left alone would produce two to three times as many pounds. On the other hand, these grapes fetch a premium price equal to two or three times that of grapes grown for sparkling wine. The nuance and concentration of flavor is less important in sparkling wine grapes, so yield limits tend to be much higher, and prices per pound lower. Once the Santa Ana vineyard is fully mature, the gross per acre will range from approximately seven thousand dollars for premium still wine grapes to seven to eleven thousand dollars for sparkling wine grapes in a non-frost year. Starting a vineyard is an expensive undertaking with high risk and a long wait period for return. Grapes vines typically need three years to come into full productivity, then wine needs at least a year to age before it can be bottled. According to both Bronk and a 2012 UC Davis Cooperative Extension study, it costs between ten and twelve thousand dollars to establish an acre of vineyard, and another two to three thousand dollars a year to operate, all requiring a patient investment. For Santa Ana, this investment came in the form of a three-year Social and Economic Development Strategies grant from the Administration for Native Americans. With a letter of interest from Gruet and commitment from the tribal council, Bronk leveraged funding for the vineyard, then sought out expert help from Milagro Winery’s Rick Hobson and Precept Wine (Gruet’s new partners) to ensure proper implementation and the project’s success. Siting the vineyard was the first step. Part of the curiosity of the vineyard on the east side of the freeway is its distance from what many would consider much better farmland closer to the river. According to Hobson, New Mexico’s biggest challenge to growing reliable grapes

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for wine is spring frost, and this is the main reason the vineyard is planted so far up the hillside. While higher might seem colder, valley temperatures actually drop lower because the cold air from the mountains will sink to the lowlands. According to Hobson, “The best solution [to spring frost] is location, of course, and identification of microclimates that are less prone to late freezes.” While the vineyard is well sited to reduce this risk, last winter and spring brought relatively mild temperatures and good rainfall. As a result, the Santa Ana vines have had ample time to establish strong root systems and trunks, further buffering their vulnerability to a late freeze. Variety also matters. Certain types of grapes will bloom later than others making them less susceptible to New Mexico temperature swings. In 2016 at his Corrales vineyards, Hobson will plant roussanne, a white wine grape, and mourvèdre, a red wine grape, both of which bloom late and show promise of doing well here. Hobson says New Mexico viticulturists need to pay attention to and experiment with location, variety, and soil amendment if they want to see their vineyards thrive and their grapes produce good wine. According to Hobson, good wine is made on the vine. Grapes must be planted in the right location, pruned properly, watered just the right amount, and picked at exactly the right moment to make a good bottle of wine. New Mexico wine growers are still learning how the regional climate and soils affect certain types of grapes. It takes four years to get to taste a bottle of wine from a new vineyard, which also means that it takes four years for a winemaker to understand if a vineyard produces grapes that make a varietally correct wine. Over the past decade, working with many different varietals, and planting

grapes in fields throughout Corrales, Hobson has done some of the hard work to understand how to make vineyards work in the Middle Rio Grande. Though, he will admit to only have scratched the surface with twenty different vineyards planted on ten acres he tends around the village.

New Mexico wine industry is growing, but like many agricultural sectors in the state, it lacks infrastructure and mid-scale winemaking operations to support certain scales of grape production. One exception to this rule, and perhaps a good model for how the industry might develop in the state is Santa Ana vineyard. Beyond the start-up costs, Bronk estimates for the vineyard to be able to maximize the costs of inputs like infrastructure and labor, and for Santa Ana to exclusively grow grapes to sell to a winemaker (rather than making wine at the Pueblo), he would need to scale up to approximately two hundred acres. With success and knowledge gained with the initial project, he hopes to expand the Santa Ana vineyards in coming years, develop a tasting room in collaboration with Tamaya Resort, and deepen Santa Ana’s relationship to Gruet.

Gruet Winery, www.gruetwinery.com Milagro Winery, www.milagrovineyardsandwinery.com Santa Ana Agricultural Enterprises www.santaana-nsn.gov/agriculture

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Ultimately, more wine production in New Mexico has the potential for positive long-term economic and cultural impacts. Raising grapes presents a high-dollar, low-water-use crop that can be cultivated and adapted to the high desert climate and soils. Rumors have surfaced that other Pueblos are in negotiation with winemakers looking to capitalize on the potential of New Mexico wine production. The combination of federal funding for agriculture, prime vineyard lands, and water rights may be the perfect equation to grow more mid-sized wineries like Gruet in New Mexico. Vineyards, in spite of challenges like spring frost and a long learning curve to understanding which grapes are best for New Mexico, have the potential to provide jobs and sustainable revenue streams for communities like Santa Ana.

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According to a 2011 report from the New Mexico State Extension Service, New Mexico has only 895 vineyard acres (compared to 789,000 acres in California, the top producing state in the US.) While the number of acres has grown, at least three and a half percent from Santa Ana’s new vines alone, the New Mexico wine industry still has work to do to establish itself as a player in the national arena. Historically, New Mexico State University (NMSU) conducted minimal research on best practices for wine grape production, but the success of Gruet, and partnerships with new vineyards like the one at Santa Ana, have encouraged more research for development of a stronger wine industry in the state. NMSU now has weather stations monitoring temperatures and precipitation at ten vineyards, six along the Rio Grande corridor and four at other substantial vineyards from as far north as Farmington and as far south as Deming.

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An Anthropology of Sherry IN NEW MEXICO WITH JAMES CAMPBELL CARUSO By Sam Melada • Photo by Stephanie Cameron

Left to right: James Campbell Caruso sniffs the aroma of a a amontillado sherry; glass of amontillado and fino.

Chef James Campbell Caruso, owner of La Boca and La Boca Taberna in Santa Fe, as well as Más Tapas y Vino in Albuquerque, came to Albuquerque in 1989 by way of Boston to study anthropology at the University of New Mexico. “It’s the study of humans and what people do in their daily lives. Eating and drinking is one of the top 60

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three things. I think it’s a great perspective for studying other cuisines.” His academic background informed our discussion on the intersection of food and wine in such a diverse environment as New Mexico. “I grew up in an Italian tradition that had a little bit of Basque mixed in and Irish, so I kind of had my own traditions. But I’m a student

of everything else, and I like to have that perspective of studying and figuring out why people do what they do and how it works in their culture. Sherry certainly fits into that category really well.” Sherry is one often overlooked New Mexico libation. It’s made in bodegas (aboveground cellars) using the solera system,

which involves gradually blending new wines with older wines, such that each bottle is a living, transforming reflection of previous vintages. Also important is the flor (yeast) that grows on the surface of the wine as it ages, contributing to the distinct flavor of nearly every bottle. The four basic styles range from the bone-dry flavors of fino and manzanilla (think granny smith apples), to slightly more complex and captivating amontillado, to oloroso (still dry but with a hint of nut-like sweetness), culminating in the sweet sherries exemplified by PX (named for the Pedro Ximénez grape). What makes sherry such an amazing complement to food? For Caruso, one of the distinctions is the solera system. “By the time you bottled this thing, it could be sixty years old. The aromas and the nose on these things, I just want to sell ‘nosehits’ for two dollars. If you want to drink it, it’s extra, and you will want to drink it. You can smell all that complexity of history coming through and that’s what makes it so appealing to pair with food. That’s why I do a lot of multicourse tasting dinners and educational seminars specifically on sherry.” Caruso has witnessed sherry’s reputation improve over time in America, along with our food palate in regard to the flavors we find on our plates. He argues that the flavor profiles in American food and wine recently went through an adolescence, “Wines were fruitier and somewhat sweeter, now flavors are coming back in line with a balance of the more bitter flavors.” As a savory wine, sherry’s image is being reborn. “Diners have gotten more experienced,” he says. How can we match the complex flavor palate of traditional New Mexican cuisine with fortified wine from southern Spain? “Piñon nuts are great for getting that taste with an amontillado. It starts to taste like almonds. Local blood sausage, sweet corn, as in a corn soup with trout, pair beautifully, too. We have this great tie in to our local heritage and what was brought here and what was planted here. The more we explore our Spanish heritage, the more we can get into sherry.” New Mexico has a great harmony with Spain in terms of the climate and the eat-

ing style. An increased availability of locally grown Spanish ingredients, such as the padròn and piquillo peppers Caruso buys from Thunderhead Farms, has led to an explosion in the interest in the cuisine and wines of Spain. “We are such chile heads, people devour them. It took a few years, but then they got perfect. Great flavor comes out of the ground here, and the diversity! Old Windmill Dairy makes great stuff, and I exclusively use feta from Tucumcari. There’s more of a relationship between farmers, chefs, and growers now.” While we may not all be experienced in preparing traditional Spanish cuisine, we have the ingredients right here in our local markets and restaurants that enable us to explore sherry. When delving into something new, I recommend you keep it simple at first. Find the style of wine that matches your existing taste, then begin broadening your horizons. Start with a fino. Try it with something salty like jamòn serrano, fried fish, or sushi (the salt in the soy makes it perfect). Amontillado can pair beautifully with a salad of bitter greens, piñon nuts, and grapes. (Now is the season for great bitter greens and piñon.) Try an oloroso with manchego or a local cheese of your liking, or traditional duck or pork dishes. If you want to explore the sweet end of the sherry spectrum, Caruso recommends trying it with bleu cheese all by itself. “It tames it. You get the creaminess of the cheese with a lush, almost motor oil-like consistency.” Ultimately, there is no single right answer when it comes to pairing sherry. The keys are curiosity and willingness to explore. Whether it’s Jesùs at Jubilation, the knowledgeable staff at Susan’s in Santa Fe, or the incredible Kokoman in Pojoaque, ask for a recommendation, pick up a bottle and try it out. You will find another world that you may never stop exploring. MÁS Tapas y Vino, Hotel Andaluz 125 2nd Street NW, Albuquerque 505-923-9080, www.hotelandaluz.com La Boca, 72 W Marcy, Santa Fe 505-982-3433, www.labocasf.com Taberna La Boca, 125 Lincoln, Santa Fe 505-988-7102, www.tabernasf.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

local heroes

Sage Bakehouse BEST FOOD ARTISAN

An Interview with Andrée Falls Photos by Douglas Merriam Photography

Left to right: Andrée Falls at the fast-paced Sage Bakehouse; just flour, water and sea salt, made fresh every day.

Every year edible Santa Fe recognizes a group of amazing individuals and organizations for their work to create a healthy, sustainable food system in New Mexico. We determine these as Local Hero awards through reader nomination and a reader poll. The local food movement is a grassroots effort that often involves late nights, backbreaking work, getting your hands dirty, checking your ego at the door, and generally being a good sport. In an effort to showcase these individuals, organizations, and businesses for their work to build a stronger local economy and a robust local food system, each issue edible continues to spotlight several of the winners with interviews about the work they do. See page 64 for this years nominees. Winners will be announced in our late winter issue. 62

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

Andrée Falls, owner and operator of Sage Bakehouse, grew up in the restaurant business. At age four, she was sitting on the kitchen counter of her mother's restaurant watching the cooks prepare the day's lunch. By the time she was eight, she was wearing an apron and has been cooking and baking ever since. In 1981, Falls went to Paris for a semester abroad that turned into a three-year stay. When she returned home to Dallas in 1984, she opened Parigi Restaurant. She was chef and owner until 1995, when she sold Parigi to move to beautiful Santa Fe and open the Sage Bakehouse.

What inspires you about baking? I’m inspired by the fact that we’re doing something timeless. We’re not trying to create something wildly creative or novel with exotic

ingredients or combinations. We just take humble ingredients: flour, water, and sea salt, and try to produce delicious, healthy, satisfying loaves of bread every day. Bread itself I find endlessly challenging. Because almost all of our breads are one hundred percent naturally leavened, we’re working with something that is alive and needs care, attention, and nurturing.

M bistro IDTOWN

What do you love most about your work, as it relates to local food? I’m grateful that my work has the possibility to touch a large part of the local population. First, almost ninety percent of our flour comes from wheat grown and milled within two hundred seventy five miles of the bakery. Next, the bakery employs dozens of local residents and strives to do so in a way that is respectful and adds value to their lives. Additionally, our customers represent a big swath of the local population. Unlike an expensive restaurant that only a small percentage can enjoy, for a modest sum, thousands of people every day enjoy a locally made, delicious, nutritional loaf of bread. And finally, we donate about two thousand pounds of bread per week to the Food Depot. In sum, from the growers and millers to the bakers, the customers and the donation recipients, it seems that we’re able to touch so many people and we really are an important part of the texture of local life.

Who inspires you? As far as other bakers go? For sure it’s Apollonia Poilane. Poilane is surely the most celebrated name in baking, yet she has no desire to use her fame to create a worldwide empire of bakeries. She deeply understands her business; she concentrates on quality; she continues her family’s tradition. Further, she has published a beautiful collection of poetry and essays that celebrate the importance of bread in our culture.

Where do you like to eat? What are your favorite foods? I really can’t answer the first question without getting into trouble with some of my restaurant and hotel customers. Of course I love bread with anything else…cheese, wine, butter…

Why do you do what you do at Sage Bakehouse? I feel like every day when I come to work I walk into a little cultural anthropology study. I work with people of vastly diverse backgrounds: different nationalities, ages, education levels, social classes…the full spectrum…and we all pull together to make simple, delicious loaves of bread that nourish and delight thousands of people every day. I find this to be deeply rewarding. 535 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-820-7243, www.sagebakehouse.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

LOCAL HERO NOMINEES The Local Hero Awards recognize the hard work your favorite famers, artisans, and advocates have put into championing farm-fresh, locally-produced food in New Mexico. Readers submitted nominations during an open call in October. We selected the ten most nominated individuals or businesses in each category for the final polls. We will announce the winners in our late winter issue, and we will profile each winner in one of our 2016 issues.

BEST FARM Vida Verde Farm Mr. G’s Organic Produce Speakeasy Gardens Gaia Gardens Naylor Farm Sol Harvest Farm Red Tractor Farms Monte Vista Organic Farm Santa Cruz Farms Cecilia’s Organics FOOD WRITER Rob DeWalt James Selby Cheryl Alters Jamison Deborah Madison Sam Melada Sarah Wentzel-Fisher Amy White Denise Miller BEST RESTAURANT Radish & Rye Blades Bistro Santacafe La Merienda @ Los Poblanos Il Piatto Dr. Field Goods Kitchen Joseph’s Culinary Pub Vinaigrette Terra at Four Seasons Rancho Encantado Jennifer James 101 Eloisa The Compound

Wendy Borger, RASA Juice Bar Marie Yniguez, Bocadillos Slow Roasted Xavier Grenet, L'Olivier Lois Ellen Frank, Red Mesa Cuisine Saul Paniagua, Canvas Artistry BEST CAFE

The Shop Breakfast & Lunch RASA Juice Bar

Squeezed Juice Bar

The Grove Cafe & Market Taos Dinner Cafe Fina

The Kitchen at Plants of the Southwest

Hartford Square

Dulce Bakery & Coffee BODY of Santa Fe

BEST PUB (serves beer and food) Loyal Hound Fire & Hops Duel Brewing Taos Mesa Brewing Blue Corn Brewery Nexus Brewery Taos Ale House 5 Star Burgers Canteen Brewhouse Draft Station BEST SPECIALTY RETAILER The Cheesemonger

M’Tucci’s Italian Market & Deli BEST CHEF Las Cosas Kitchen Shoppe Jonathan Perno, Los Poblanos Savory Spice Shop Historic Inn & Organic Farm Modern General David Swan, Swan Kitchen Susan’s Fine Wine Renee Fox, Loyal Hound Santa Fe School of Cooking Kevin Bladergone, Blades Bistro Parch Bottleshop + Bites Matt Yohalem, Il Piatto MIXOLOGIST Rocky Durham, Joseph Haggard, Elosia Santa Fe Culinary Academy edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTERJulian 2015 Martinez, Artichoke Cafe Mark The Compound 64 Kiffin,

Justin Greene, Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm Quinn Stevenson, Radish & Rye, Coyote Cafe, and Geronimo Chris Milligan, Secreto Lounge BEST GROCERY RETAILER Kaune’s Neighborhood Market Talin Market Taos Market Cid’s Food Market Espanola Community Market Village Farmers Market Whole Foods BEST FOOD ARTISAN Old Windmill Dairy Hatchup Katchup Revolution Bakery RASA Juice Bar Barrio Brinery Valley Gurlz Goods Coonridge Goat Cheese Heidi’s Raspberry Jam Bosque Baking Co. New Mexico Pie Co. BEVERAGE ARTISAN (non-alcoholic) Villa Myriam/The Brew Ohori’s Coffee Roasters Verde Juice Bar Zendo Iconik Coffee Roasters Humble Coffee Camino de Paz De Smet Dairy BEST FOOD TRUCK The Bonsai Asian Tacos Street Food Institute Rustic Irrational Pie Soo Bak Foods Firenze Pizzeria Fresco New Mexico Gauchito Catering TFK Smokehouse Pete’s Frites

BEVERAGE ARTISAN (alcoholic) Black Mesa Winery Santa Sidra Bosque Brewing Vivac Winery Estrella Del Norte Winery Santa Fe Spirits Algodones Distillery Monte’s Hard Cider Second Street Brewery Boese Brothers Brewery FOOD ORGANIZATION Squash Blossom Santa Fe Community Farm Valencia County Community Garden Rio Grande Community Farm NMSU Cooperative Extension Farm to Table Agri-Cultura Network Santa Fe Farmers Market Institute Knowaste Renuity Resources OLLA AWARD (Local Food Hero) Nina Yozell-Epstein, Squash Blossom Andrew Cooper, Terra Restaurant Suzanne Taylor, Valencia County Community Garden Matt Yohalem, Il Piatto Michelle Franklin, La Montanita Co-op Cherie Montoya, Farm & Table Lois Ellen Frank, Red Mesa Cuisine Vicki Pozzebon, Prospera Partners Pamela Davis, Seed2Need Jason Greene, The Grove Cafe & Market

edible notables PIZZERIA DA LINO LAUNCHES CHILE LINE BREWERY

Alexander Pertusini showing off his grains.

Pizzeria Da Lino will launch their Chile Line Brewery in December. Alexander Per-

tusini, master brewer, lovingly refers to this endeavor as a “nano brewery.” To start, they will only produce thirty to forty gallons a week to supply the pizzeria and a small tasting room located adjacent to the restaurant. Because the brewing operation is so small, it will surely stand out from the rest of the pack. Being small also means it can quickly adapt its small-batch recipes to consumer tastes. Pertusini focuses on rauchbier (smoked beers) from Germany, creating a unique flavor profile that compliments authentic wood-fired pizzas. Pertusini hand mills all the whole grains for his beers, adding time to the process, but this extra step enhances the flavor profile of the beer. For now, the Chile Line Brewery will only offer tastings and beer at the restaurant while they get their grounding and learn what their community wants. Pertusini wants the brewery to be an educational experience where customers learn about the process of his nano brewery and about rauchbier. Being a small-scale brew-

Waterwise in Winter Saving Water is Always in Season Santa Fe Water Conservation Office

ery, the homebrewer can easily identify with what Pertusini does at the Chile Line Brewery. He says, “Come and fall in love with the craft.” 204 N Guadalupe, Santa Fe 505-982-8474, www.pizzeriadalino.com

PIATANZI BISTRO & PIZZERIA OPENS NEW LOCATION Piatanzi Bistro & Pizzeria—currently operating at 1403 Girard Boulevard NE in the Netherwood Park neighborhood—will open its second location in Albuquerque this November at 3305 Juan Tabo Boulevard NE. Chef Peter Lukes will again dish up his refined version of house-made regional Italian in the upbeat, cosmopolitan setting designed by his wife, Margaret Lukes—fresh fish, pastas made-to-order, hand-tossed Neapolitanstyle pizzas, extensive beer and wine selections, and service with a smile. Much of the menu here consists of local, organic, and non-GMO certified ingredients. Be sure to ask your server.

Make water conservation a part of your holiday tradition. Water conservation is a yearround commitment in Santa Fe. For tips on how you can save water this holiday season visit www.savewatersantafe.com

Save Water Santa Fe

(505) 955-4225 • www.savewatersantafe.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

EL MORRO , NEW MEXICO

COME EXPERIENCE AN ENCHANTING GETAWAY WILD SPIRIT WOLF SANCTUARY 505-775-3304, info@wildspiritwolfsanctuary.org Daily Tours 11-3:30 pm, Tuesday - Sunday wildspiritwolfsanctuary.org • Find us on Facebook Lodging, food available, feeding tours.

edible notables Food and drink brings people together, which brings community together. Piatanzi promises to become a favorite neighborhood spot where community can gather and enjoy delicious meals, share some wine, and savor good company. 1403 Girard NE, Albuquerque 3305 Juan Tabo NE, Albuquerque 505-792-1700, www.piatanzi.com

OM ORGANIC MIXOLOGY LIQUEURS

A wind-powered printshop prints OM’s labels and the company ships their liqueurs in recycled cases. The company’s partnership with Trees for the Future results in a seedling planted for every bottle sold. “I’m proud of what we’ve accomplished with OM,” explains Bovis. “Our certified organic liqueur is made with an eye toward sustainability and offers flavorful, quality liqueurs to people seeking an enlightened cocktail.” www.omcocktails.com

JERKY BY ART OPENS NEWEST LOCATION HAPPY HOWL-O-DAYS FROM ALL OF US AT WILD SPIRIT WOLF SANCTUARY

ANCIENT WAY CAFE & EL MORRO RV PARK AND CABINS 505-783-4612, elmorrorv@gmail.com www.elmorro-nm.com Visit our Website for Monthly Dinner Menu Creative Casual Cuisine. Hike El Morro National Monument, Local Art at the Old School Gallery.

CABIN AND DINNER FOR TWO $110 INCLUDE A WOLF FEEDING AND TOUR $65

A CENTER FOR WELLNESS

505-783-4039, waveridersheal@yahoo.com redwulf.dancingbare@facebook.com www.waveridersoftheancientway.com Sessions, Workshops, and Retreats. Come Quiet your Mind & Rejuvenate your Spirit.

Nestled among the pines at the base of San Lorenzo Mesa. edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

OM Organic Mixology Liqueurs make home entertaining easy. Their flavors, which include Cranberry & Blood Orange, Meyer Lemon & Ginger, Coconut & Lychee, and the new Dark Chocolate Sea Salt, have become popular in cocktails across the country. The liqueurs are available in New Mexico as of November 2015. High-end customers, such as Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles; the Ritz Carlton in Amelia Island, Florida; and the Four Seasons in Las Vegas, Nevada, now serve OM Dark Chocolate Sea Salt, topped with whipped cream and espresso shavings. Entrepreneur Jason Monkarsh, of Beverly Hills and Santa Fean Natalie Bovis, who is the founder of The Liquid Muse Mixology, together created OM Liqueurs and the New Mexico Cocktails & Culture festival, which returns to the City Different in June 2016. Bovis also co-founded the Mind, Body, Spirits wellness program for bartenders, and authored three cocktail books: Preggatinis: Mixology for the Mom-To-Be (nonalcoholic), The Bubbly Bride: Wedding Cocktail Guide, and Edible Cocktails: Garden to Glass.

Jerky, the only English word derived from the South American language, Quechua, is a form of American culinary art that goes way back. Jerky by Art, with locations in Albuquerque, Rio Rancho, Bosque Farms, and now in Santa Fe, has a more modest but nonetheless impressive history of over fourteen years. Today it’s the largest beef jerky retailer in New Mexico, providing jerky seasoned more than twenty-five different ways. In addition to adding its own rendition to the tried and true salt and pepper, Jerky by Art has introduced new dimensions to the jerky world with creations such as orange teriyaki and green chile lemon. Be sure to try their newest location on Cerrillos Road in Santa Fe. 1717 San Pedro NE, Albuquerque 505-262-0240 2235 A Bosque Farms Boulevard, Bosque Farms, 505-262-0240 1520 Deborah, Suite J, Rio Rancho 505-721-7079 2107 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-262-0240 www.jerkeybyart.com

ALBUQUERQUE eat local guide

MIUM PRE

Authentic

Delicious

L LY S O U R

EAT LOCAL GUIDE CE

New Mexico has its own unique food traditions —from Hatch to Chimayó—and we’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants and chefs that create the distinctively New Mexico dining experience. Restaurants are chosen for this dining guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients in their menus and their commitment to real food.

Support these restaurants, and support local food communities.

Brew

villa myriam

311 Gold SW, Albuquerque 505-814-1599, www.villamyriam.com Family owned from farm to cup, we are steeped in three generations of coffee excellence.

4803 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque 505-344-9297, www.lospoblanos.com Rooted in organic ingredients from our own farm and the Rio Grande Valley region. Join us at La Merienda, Wed-Sun 6 - 9pm, by reservation only.

1403 Girard NE, Albuquerque 505-792-1700, www.piatanzi.com Our fabulous small plate Italian creations are crafted from the finest, freshest ingredients; organic, farm-raised, and locally sourced. Featuring a beer and wine bar.

tuesday-saturday 11am-8pm

3216 Silver SE, Albuquerque 505-266-2305, www.ajiacobistro.com Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by a diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. Cultural traditions of different Colombian ethnic groups play a roll in our choice of ingredients.

The

colombian bistro

now open

8917 4th NW, Albuquerque 505-503-7124, www.farmandtablenm.com A wonderful dining experience! Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm.

125 Second NW, Albuquerque 505-923-9080, www.hotelandaluz.com

1710 Central SW, Albuquerque 5901 Wyoming NE, Albuquerque 505-821-1909, www.5starburgers.com Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of sandwiches, entrees, salads, a kid’s menu, beer and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

4003 Carlisle NE, Albuquerque 505-884-3625, www.nmpiecompany.com

A culinary creation by Chef James Campbell Caruso, MÁS offers a fresh reinvention of traditional Spanish cuisine located in one of Albuquerque’s most iconic spaces, Hotel Andaluz.

Handmade sweet and savory pies with an emphasis on simple, pure flavors, and premium ingredients. Locally roasted coffee and espresso drinks compliment our pies. Order your holiday pies now.

10601 Montgomery NE, Albuquerque 505-294-9463, www.savoyabq.com

2031 Mountain NW, Albuquerque 505-766-5100, www.seasonsabq.com

California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Farm-to-table dining from the area's best farms. Wine tastings and happy hour.

Oak-fired grill, local ingredients, and the best patio dining Old Town has to offer!

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

ALBUQUERQUE

600 Central SE, Albuquerque 505-248-9800, www.thegrovecafemarket.com The Grove features a bustling cafĂŠ experience serving breakfast, brunch and lunch. Local, seasonal, organic foods, Intelligentsia coffee and tea, beer, wine and signature sweets.

2933 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-433-2795, theshopbreakfastandlunch.com Come in for breakfast or lunch, creative American classics with Latin and creole influences, made from local and organic ingredients.

88 Louisiana SE, Albuquerque 505-268-0206, www.talinmarket.com Talin T-Bar Traditional flavors Made quickly and with love Ramen. Friday/Saturday: Dumplings!

TRIFECTA COFFEE COMPANY

413 Montano NE, Albuquerque 505-803-7579, www.trifectacoffeecompany.com

1828 Central SW, Albuquerque, 505-842-5507 www.vinaigretteonline.com

Coffee bar, roastery and, baked goods. Open 7 days a week. Monday thru Friday, 6:30am 6pm. Saturday, 7am - 4pm. Sunday, 10am â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2pm.

Our salad-centric philosophy focuses on bold flavor combinations and savory proteins to compliment a huge variety of organic greens.

LOS LUNAS

3423 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-255-8226, www.zacatecastacos.com Zacatecas features recipes handed down from generation to generation with flavors that are true to the history and culture of Mexico. Zacatecas is a real taqueria.

PLACITAS

Creative Casual Cuisine

3009 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-254-9462, www.zincabq.com

5 Thomas, Los Lunas 505-866-1936, www.greenhousebistro.com

A three level bistro featuring contemporary cuisine with a French flair. Dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails, and tasty bar bites!

Good food always puts you in a good mood! Fresh, seasonal ingredients provide the basis for a meal that promotes healthy living.

221 Highway 165, Placitas 505-771-0695, www.bladesbistro.com Chef and owner Kevin Bladegroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an award-winning wine list.

SANTA FE

622 St. Michaels, Santa Fe 505-438-1163, www.agniayurveda.com

502 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe 505-469-2345, www.bangbitesf.com

Our mission at Agni Ayurveda is to help you attain exceptional health of mind, body, and spirit through ancient Ayurvedic treatments, cooking classes, and diet and lifestyle consultation.

Fresh. Local. Tasty. A bunch of food enthusiasts obsessed with serving the very best crafted food we can get and delivering it the way it was meant to be enjoyed.

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

4056 Cerrillos, Santa Fe 505-438-1800, www.bluecornbrewery.com A local favorite since 1997! Featuring award-winning, handcrafted beers brewed on location. Northern New Mexican cuisine and contemporary comfort food highlighting local, sustainable ingredients.

SANTA FE

Kitchen Bakery & Butcher Shop

233 Canyon Road, Santa Fe 505-820-7996, www.caffegrecosantafe.com

725 Cerrillos, Santa Fe 505-982-5952, www.santafesageinn.com

2860 Cerrillos, Santa Fe 505-471-0043, www.drfieldgoods.com

Caffe Greco is nestled on the first block of historic Canyon Road boasting a beautiful patio, authentic New Mexican cuisine, sandwiches, salads, Lavazza coffee drinks, beer, wine, and catering. Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown Finalist.

Drink. Dine. Unwind. Featuring American comfort food to stylish fusion cuisine that honors farmers market seasonal goods. Sip cocktails inspired by local spirits, popular wine varietals or a cold craft beer on the patio.

Mouth-watering creative daily specials, locally sourced produce, house-made sausages and meats butchered daily, rotating selection of fifteen beers on tap, hand-muddled sake cocktails, executive chef owned and operated.

5 228 E Palace, Santa Fe 505-982-0883, www.eloisasantafe.com John Rivera Sedlar spent many years in Grandma Eloisa's kitchen. She lovingly taught him the origins and secrets of Santa Fe cooking. Inspired by this rich heritage. Chef John offers a unique vision of New Mexico cuisine.

604 North Guadalupe, Santa Fe 505-983-8977, www.5starburgers.com

95 West Marcy, Santa Fe 505-984-1091, www.ilpiattosantafe.com

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of entrees, sandwiches, salads, a kid’s menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

A local favorite since 1996, boasting an authentic Italian farmhouse experience, sourcing its ingredients directly from local farms, dairies, and ranches. Extensive wine list.

428 Agua Fria, Santa Fe 505-982-1272, www.josephsofsantafe.com

125 E Palace, Santa Fe 505-988-5232, www.lacasasena.com

100 E San Francisco, Santa Fe 505-982-5511, www.lafondasantafe.com

Joseph's is the latest incarnation of Chef Joseph Wrede's mission to bring together the finest ingredients, artistic vision, and delightful, surprising flavor to every dish.

A local favorite for over thirty years! Chef Gharrity features New American West cuisine infused with fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients. We also feature an award-winning wine list.

Showcasing contemporary interpretations of old favorites with New World influences and classic New Mexican cuisine, accompanied by an awardwinning wine list.

CAFFÉ BAR TRATTORIA

L’OLIVIER 229 Galisteo, Santa Fe 505-989-1919, www.loliviersantafe.com Chef Xavier Grenet creates elegant and refreshing cuisine combining classic French culinary techniques with southwestern flavors and ingredients.

228 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe 505-989-1904, www.mangiamopronto.com Enjoy fresh, authentic, Italian street food; house-made gelato; Lavazza espresso; and wine and beer all day long on our beautiful sidewalk patio.

901 West San Mateo, Santa Fe 505-820-3121, www.midtownbistrosf.com Midtown bistro, featuring executive chef Angel Estrada, offers Santa Fe gourmet fine dining with a Southwest flair.

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

SANTA FE

505 Cerrillos and 1098 South St. Francis, Santa Fe 505-982-9692, www.ohoriscoffee.com

58 South Federal, Santa Fe 505-986-5858, www.osteriadassisi.com

Modern General’s café offers simple organic breakfast items, pastries, and cold-pressed juice and smoothie options.

The original specialty, local micro-roasted coffee source since 1984. Along with our fresh beans, we serve espresso, pour-over, teas, pastries, donuts, burritos, chocolates, and more.

An authentic Italian restaurant in Santa Fe assuring us all that Italy never feels too far away. Gracious service mixed with fresh, seasonal ingredients from local farms to create homemade items.

551 West Cordova, Santa Fe 505-930-5521, www.paper-dosa.com

548 Agua Fria Street, Santa Fe 505-930-5325, www.radishandrye.com

815 Early, Santa Fe 505-989-1288, www.rasajuice.com

Paper Dosa's focus is to bring clean, fresh, authentic homestyle south indian dishes to your table. These bright and exciting flavors will leave you wanting more.

Farm inspired cuisine: simple yet innovative food and drinks sourced locally whenever possible. We work closely with local farmers and ranchers to build our menu.

An organic juice bar and café committed to offering delicious plant-based foods, cold-pressed juices, and innovative cleansing and detox programs.

637 Cerrillos, Santa Fe 505-930-5462, www.moderngeneralnm.com

414 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe 505-955-0765, www.riochamasteakhouse.com 20 Buffalo Thunder, Santa Fe 505-819-2056, www.buffalothunderresort.com

1814 Second Street, Santa Fe 505-982-3030, www.secondstreetbrewery.com

Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder is perfect for your next romantic night out. Fare rotates seasonally. Enjoy the extensive wine list.

A "home away from home" for both locals and visitors. Chef Blankenship features innovated classics on American cuisine with New Mexican influences. Offering the best prime rib, burgers and fondue in town. Our patio is one of Santa Fe’s most popular and inviting patios.

Second Street offers a welcoming, friendly environment where you can enjoy hand-crafted beer and delicious food. Gluten-intolerant friends can enjoy gluten-removed hand-crafted Kölsch and IPA.

1607 Paseo De Peralta, Santa Fe 505-989-3278, www.secondstreetbrewery.com

304 Johnson, Santa Fe 505-989-1166, www.terracottawinebistro.com

505 Cerrillos, Santa Fe 505-780-5073, www.talinmarket.com

Located near the Rail Runner train depot, Second Street Railyard offers comfortable atmosphere, good food, and delicious micro-brewed beer. Now brewing gluten-removed Kölsch and IPA.

A smart, casual restaurant located in a charming one-hundred-year-old adobe. Seasonally-changing, globally-inspired cuisine and an extensive, valued-priced wine list.

Talin T-Bar Traditional flavors Made quickly and with love Ramen. Monday: Dumplings!

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2015

SANTA FE

TAOS

653 Canyon Road, Santa Fe 505-982-4353, www.compoundrestaurant.com The Compound Restaurant has a heritage rich in history and regional influences. Chef Mark Kiffin continues to preserve a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution.

709 Don Cubero Alley, Santa Fe, 505-820-9205 www.vinaigretteonline.com Our salad-centric philosophy focuses on bold flavor combinations and savory proteins to compliment a huge variety of organic greens.

124 F Bent Street, Taos 575-758-0606 THE BEST COFFEE IN TAOS! Fair trade, organic espresso, chai frappes, smoothies, gelato, and pastries. Featuring the only ROCKBAR ever! Come on in and drop a rock in YOUR drink!

TAOS

5 125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos 575-758-1977, www.taosinn.com Serving lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. Patio dining, fresh local foods, award-wining wines, and margaritas. Try our signature chile rellenos.

1032 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur, Taos 575-758-8484, www.5starburgers.com

100 State Highway 150, El Prado 575-776-8787, www.medleyinelprado.com

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of entrees, sandwiches, salads, a kid’s menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

A casual yet refined dining experience featuring world class wines and culinary delights inspired by regional American cuisines with a touch of international flair.

TAOS DINER I & II TAOS, NEW MEXICO

103 E Taos Plaza, Taos 575-758-1994, www.parcht.com

908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374 216 B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989 www.taosdinner.com

103 E Taos Plaza, Taos 575-758-8866, www.thegorgebarandgrill.com

/pärCHt/= the physical condition resulting from the need to drink wine, eat good food, and shop…in Taos.

Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown, and organic breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine.

Our menu is straightforward yet eclectic, and chock full of favorites made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible.

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last bite SPICY ATOLE DE CALABAZA BORRACHITO STYLE Recipe by Enrique Guerrero Bang Bite Filling Station Serves 7 – 9 3 cups fresh pumpkin, peeled, seeded, and cubed into 1-inch chunks 3 ounces piloncillo, roughly chopped, or brown sugar 1 teaspoon whole anise seeds 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon of Chimayó red chile powder 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1/2 teaspoon ground clove Pinch salt 1/2 bottle of Santa Fe Spirits apple brandy 3 cups water 2 cups whole milk 1 cinnamon stick, whole (preferably Mexican cañela) 1 cup Tamaya Blue atole Sugar to taste Candied ginger, for garnish Candied pepitas (pumpkin seeds) Note: Piloncillo, or whole cane sugar, is sold in Latin American markets. In a large heavy pot, combine the cubed pumpkin, piloncillo, spices, and salt with 1/4 cup of water. Set over medium heat and stir frequently until the the piloncillo melts. Continue to cook, covered, until the pumpkin falls apart, 15 – 20 minutes. Puree in a blender or food processor until smooth. In a large heavy pot, combine the water, milk, and cinnamon stick. Bring to a high simmer. Lower heat and gradually whisk in the atole, stirring constantly to avoid any lumps. Add the pureed pumpkin and simmer until slightly thickened but still pourable, 5 – 10 minutes. Add apple brandy, simmer for 1 minute more. Serve warm with added sugar to taste, and garnish with candied ginger and pepitas. 72

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