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MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES
® SANTA FE ®· ALBUQUERQUE · TAOS THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON IN NEW MEXICO
the wellness issue ISSUE 53 · EARLY WINTER · DECEMBER 2017 / JANUARY 2018
THE WELLNESS ISSUE: DECEMBER / JANUARY DEPARTMENTS 2
GRIST FOR THE MILL By Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook
62 FERMENTI'S PARADOX Good-For-You Brew by Carrie Murphy
72 NOTABLES Cookbooks and cooking classes
CONTRIBUTORS
76 SOURCE GUIDE / EAT LOCAL GUIDE
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LOCAL HEROES
80 LAST BITE
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CHEF'S TABLE
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FACES OF FOOD
Hyper-Local, Hyper-Seasonal by Michael J. Dax Grass Farmers by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher
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LIQUID TOURISM
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EDIBLE CRAFT COCKTAIL
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COOKING FRESH
Old and New Perspectives by Sam L. Melada Tranquilo by Quinn Stephenson Indulging in the Season by Tara Lanich-LaBrie
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edible
MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES
® SANTA FE · ALBUQUERQUE · TAOS THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON IN NEW MEXICO
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Verde Food Company, Artichoke Cafe, Rancho de ChimayÓ, and Cherie Montoya
ON THE COVER
Trippa Della Nonna by Enrique Guerrero
FEATURES 50 FRACKING IN NEW MEXICO Creates Uncertain Future for Land and People by Michael J. Dax
56 HEALTHY HIVES, HEALTHY LIVES Beekeeping Brings Wellness to Humans and Bees by Willy Carleton
57 FORAGED EARTH Finding Healing in New Mexico’s Wild Harvests by Emily Hill
the wellness issue ISSUE 53 · EARLY WINTER · DECEMBER 2017 / JANUARY 2018
Top left, clockwise: Calendula flowers, rose buds, juniper berries, rose hip, red dock root, and lavender. Sourced from The Herb Store in Albuquerque. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.
66 THE FERMENTED LIFE A Morning with Sandor Ellix Katz by Katherine Mast
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GRIST FOR THE MILL PUBLISHERS
As winter settles in, and the scent of green chile gives way to wafts of juniper smoke in the air, we reflect on how our personal health reflects that of our planet. We find in this reflection that the wellness of our bodies and minds, and that of our landscapes, are entangled and inextricable. Food is the outside environment becoming a physical part of ourselves. For this issue of edible, we examine the state of our wellness through the health of the lands and waters that surround us. From a recent proliferation of fracking wells near Chaco, which potentially contaminate water for drinking, irrigation, and livestock, to ongoing threats to local bee populations due to herbicide and pesticide use, we take stock of how seemingly distant and outside contaminants can affect the foods we consume. We explore local medicine makers, who rely on a vibrant landscape to provide healing plants; and we explore ranchers who invest in grass-finishing techniques to provide a more healthful product for consumers and the planet. We look, too, to invisible landscapes, such as the wild bacteria of our microbiomes, that help maintain digestive health and aid the immune system. Throughout the issue, we find that wild places, both inside and outside of us, prove essential to our wellness. With the holidays on the horizon, making healthful food decisions can be a challenge. This issue also features a variety of food and drink options that will help you partake in the decadence of this food-centric season without derailing your wellness goals for the new year. Recipes for delicious desserts that swap out refined sugars for antioxidant-rich alternatives like local honey are sure to keep your sweet tooth satisfied. We also highlight local kombucha companies, which provide gut-friendly, fizzy, and festive refreshments that won’t leave you with a holiday hangover. And if you do indulge, we’ve got a “cure” for that, too, in our Last Bite recipe column. Achieving a healthy constitution and planet may feel, at times, beyond our control—sometimes it is—but the work these local food producers and protectors are doing should inspire us to be more proactive and mindful about what we put into our bodies and what we put out into the world. We wish you all a happy and healthy New Year!
Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook, Editors
Bite Size Media, LLC Stephanie and Walt Cameron
EDITORS Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook
COPY EDITORS Margaret Marti and Briana Olson
DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron
PHOTO EDITOR Stephanie Cameron
EVENT COORDINATORS Natalie Donnelly and Gina Riccobono
DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Joshua Hinte
PUBLISHING ASSISTANT Rhiannon Fraizer
VIDEO PRODUCER Walt Cameron
SALES AND MARKETING Kate Collins, Melinda Esquibel, and Gina Riccobono
CONTACT US Mailing Address: 3301-R Coors Boulevard NW #152 Albuquerque, NM 87120 info@ediblesantafe.com www.ediblesantafe.com Phone: 505-375-1329
SUBSCRIBE ∙ BUY AN AD ∙ LETTERS 505-375-1329 WWW.EDIBLENM.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at INFO@EDIBLESANTAFE.COM Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible Santa Fe six times a year. We distribute throughout central and northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. Printed at Courier Graphics Corporation Phoenix, Arizona
Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2017 All rights reserved. Winner of James Beard Foundation Award 2011 Publication of the Year
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Celebrating 35 years! Join us for the rebirth of Vanessie. Northern Coastal Italian menu influenced by local cuisine and flavors that change with the seasons.
434 W San Francisco St, Santa Fe • 505-982-9966 • vanessiesantafe.com
CONTRIBUTORS
STEPHANIE CAMERON Stephanie Cameron was raised in Albuquerque and earned a degree in fine arts at the University of New Mexico. After photographing, testing, and designing a cookbook in 2011, she and her husband Walt began pursuing Edible Communities and they found edible Santa Fe in their backyard. Today, Cameron is the art director, head photographer, marketing guru, publisher, and owner of edible Santa Fe.
TARA LANICH-LABRIE Tara Lanich-LaBrie is an artist, healing facilitator, and culinary explorer living on a small farm in rural New Mexico with her young daughter and farmer husband. She spends her days painting, writing, and creating seasonal, highly nutritious meals that empower others to discover new ways of indulging in beautiful food. You can follow her journey on Instagram at @themedicinecircle or find her online at themedicinecircle.com.
WILLY CARLETON Willy Carleton lives in Albuquerque and is an avid vegetable grower, forager, and editor of edible Santa Fe. He recently completed a dissertation on the agricultural history of twentieth-century New Mexico in the history department at the University of New Mexico.
KATHERINE MAST Katherine Mast is a freelance science and environmental writer living in Santa Fe, where she dabbles in backyard gardening and vermicomposting.
CANDOLIN COOK Candolin Cook is a history doctoral student at the University of New Mexico, an associate editor for the New Mexico Historical Review, and editor of edible Santa Fe. On Saturdays, you can find her selling Vida Verde Farm produce at Albuquerque's Downtown Growers' Market. Follow her farm life on Instagram @vidaverdefarmabq and @candolin. MICHAEL J. DAX Michael J. Dax lives in Santa Fe and writes about environment and culture in the American West. He is the author of Grizzly West: A Failed Attempt to Reintroduce Grizzly Bears in the Mountain West (2015). EMILY HILL Emily Hill is a wellness-travel journalist and outdoor educator. She spent her summer leading hiking expeditions for adolescent girls across the Southwest, where she mainly ate dehydrated beans and trail mix. Originally from Atlanta, Hill now lives in Albuquerque, and has fallen in love with New Mexican culture and cuisine. She's also a regular contributor at Yoga Journal, the Wanderlust Journal, and Huffington Post Healthy Living.
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SAM L. MELADA Sam Melada is a local food and wine writer with a strong desire to make the history, language, and culture of wine more accessible and enjoyable to everyone. He is also a neuroscience nurse educator with UNM Hospitals and a graduate student in cognitive linguistics at UNM. CARRIE MURPHY Carrie Murphy is the author of two books of poetry, Fat Daisies (Big Lucks, 2015) and Pretty Tilt (Keyhole, 2012). Originally from Baltimore, Maryland, she works as a freelance writer and birth doula in Albuquerque. SARAH WENTZEL-FISHER Sarah Wentzel-Fisher is the executive director of the Quivira Coalition and a champion of regional food systems and regenerative agriculture. She has managed area farmers markets, edited edible Santa Fe, worked for the National Young Farmers Coalition and La MontaĂąita Co-op, and is currently the board president of the Rio Grande Agricultural Land Trust. In her free time, of which she has very little, she enjoys visiting farms and ranches, experimenting in her kitchen, and keeping chickens in her backyard.
Our second century begins November 25, 2017. Join us. E X H I B I T I O N S · A R T & F A M I LY E V E N T S · P E R F O R M A N C E S nmartmuseum.org | . , | -- |
LOCAL HEROES Edible recognizes this group of amazing individuals and organizations for their work to create healthy, sustainable food systems in New Mexico. We determine these awards through reader nominations and a reader poll. The local food movement is a grassroots effort that often involves late nights, backbreaking work, dirty fingernails, and being a generally good sport. In an effort to showcase these individuals, organizations, and businesses for their work to build a stronger local economy and a robust local food system, each issue this year spotlights several of the winners with interviews about the work they do. Readers can vote for 2018 Local Heroes now at www.ediblenm.com.
Verde Food Company AN INTERVIEW WITH KELLY EGOLF, PRESIDENT BEST BEVERAGE ARTISAN (NON-ALCOHOLIC)
Left: Kelly Egolf. Right: Spicy Sunrise juice and Verde Juiced Burger. Photos by Douglas Merriam. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.
she worked in fundraising, including at UNM Medical Group. After
foods and eliminating the processed “fake” meal replacements recommended by the surgeon. Verde Food Company was born out of Egolf’s personal menu of functional beverages for healing.
Egolf's first child was born with life-threatening allergies, she dedicated
What do you love most about local food?
Kelly Egolf followed her husband Brian, a member of the New Mexico House of Representatives, to New Mexico in 2002. For a decade,
herself to learning about natural foods and supplements. Later, when she underwent a major jaw surgery that required her mouth to be wired shut for two months, Egolf started researching and designing a highly nutritious beverage line to aid in her recovery—which was only half as long as other patients. Her secret was focusing on genuine organic 6
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Fresher food is more nutritious, and buying locally grown food is the best way to guarantee freshness. Also, farming and ranching are generations-old traditions in northern New Mexico. I love knowing who our farmers are and I love their commitment to sustainable and organic farming—even without certification—because their farming
Versatility Reinvented
6401 San Mateo Blvd NE Albuquerque, NM 87109 505.908.9060
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LOCAL HEROES
Left: Washing carrots. Top right: Cristian Rosales juicing carrots. Bottom right: Signature juice blends. Photos by Douglas Merriam.
methods are family traditions passed down by their grandparents’ grandparents.
How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work?
What are some of your favorite places to eat and why? I love breakfast at Pasqual’s. It’s not only amazingly delicious, Katherine [Kagel] is committed to sustainability the way Verde is—which means a sustainable work environment for her staff and the farms she buys from. She is also a food advocate I admire, who has given back to the community in truly meaningful ways.
My previous career was in nonprofit development. I spent fifteen years working for and with organizations that share my passion for health, environmental protection, and social justice. I put that career on hold six years ago to focus on my own health, specifically life-disrupting TMJ [temporomandibular joint disorder] caused by a degenerative jaw condition.
For lunch, I find myself at Sweetwater Harvest often. They believe in whole and natural ingredients, made from scratch, and have tons of plant-based options on the menu. They also do amazing work to support local food as a CSA pick-up location. For cash-paying customers, they dedicate two percent of sales (which would normally go to a credit card processor) to a different worthy non-profit each month.
I had a major jaw surgery and was wired shut, unable to chew for nearly two months. I had to thread a small feeding tube between my teeth to get nutrition. My doctor told me to drink a nutrition shake, which was mostly high-fructose corn syrup and pharmaceutically engineered nutrients, as my sole source of nutrition. I decided there must be a better way.
My favorite place for dinner is on my porch with my kids. When we have family dinners out, it’s always something locally owned, and we encourage them to try new cuisines. If a restaurant isn’t familyoriented or doesn’t have an allergy-friendly menu, we won’t go back.
I was only a casual juicer before my surgery, but quickly discovered that juice did not meet my total nutrition needs. Smoothies were thick and globby, or they were milkshake-like sugar bombs. So I dedicated my recovery time to creating a line of functional, coldpressed juice beverages that combined the best elements of juice and smoothies. When I got bored with one recipe or thought I needed a different nutritional profile, I created a new one. All the while, I was learning a tremendous amount about how to meet nutritional needs on a liquid diet.
What’s your favorite way to spend a day off? As winter is approaching, I’ll be spending lots of time with my girls doing crafts for the holidays. We sew together and try out new glutenfree baking recipes—always an adventure. 8
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One day, someone suggested I turn my juice blends into a business. From there, we’ve expanded to ultra-nutritious foods as well, but never compromising on the taste or integrity of the ingredients. Fill in the Blank: Tell us about your life outside of Verde. I also am involved in advocacy work for causes I believe in. I love working with customers the most when it comes to my work and my passion, because my favorite thing about Verde is helping people with healthy food choices and sharing the medicinal properties of food with grateful customers, usually confused by media messages of eat this or don’t eat that. The question people always ask me is what it’s like to be a busy politician’s wife. But I wish they'd ask me what it’s like for your husband to be married to a successful entrepreneur. If I had the chance, I would have lunch with Michael Pollan in Deborah Madison’s kitchen. I'd like to ask him, If Americans are unwilling or unable to dedicate the time and resources needed to eat real food, how can we food industry folks change the popular diet culture for the better . . . and do people look in his shopping basket the same way they look in mine at the supermarket? If I weren't doing what I’m doing now, I'd be helping non-profit organizations and advocating for public policies to improve access to nutritious food. Most people are surprised to learn that I’m not a vegetarian (I just often eat like one). What makes you laugh? Why? My kids love to dress up our dogs in their own clothing and jewelry and then dance around with them in the living room. I don’t think that requires any further explanation, do you?
Inn on the Alameda Daily Happy Hour
What gets you fired up? Why? I am overjoyed when a customer tells me that Verde inspired them to change how they eat and about the difference we’ve made in their lives. Sometimes the story involves weight loss, but usually it’s that they’ve started to eat a more plant-based and less processed diet. They tell me they feel less bloated, sleep better, have fewer aches. I know our juice didn’t do anything miraculous for them. The powerful stuff is in understanding the difference between real food and fake foods and learning how much less we eat naturally if we just fill our bellies with nutritious food. Is there anything else you'd like to share with edible readers? Verde is growing rapidly and we’ll soon be selling our products in grocery stores and spas around the state. www.verdefood.com
5–6:30
$6 house wines $6 happitizers $4 bottled beers $7.50 house margarita Dining & Cocktails 5–9:30 303 E. Alameda at Paseo de Peralta • Santa Fe, NM • 505.984.2121 WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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LOCAL HEROES
Artichoke Cafe AN INTERVIEW WITH TERRY AND PAT KEENE, OWNERS BEST RESTAURANT, ALBUQUERQUE
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While a student at UNM, Terry Keene started working in the restaurant business as a waiter, and later as manager, for the Montana Mining Company, a steakhouse in Albuquerque. He then did a stint with Steak and Ale Corporation, but decided he wanted to open his own restaurant. An opportunity in Hoboken, New Jersey, came up in 1985, so he and wife Pat went back east to own and operate The Gold Coast Café, a pub-style restaurant in a gentrified neighborhood. They stayed four years and, during that time, Pat earned a Professional Chef degree from The New York Restaurant School (now International Culinary Academy) in Manhattan. She specialized in operating a one hundred seat, white-tablecloth restaurant where everything was made from scratch, and interned at a few New York City restaurants with similar themes.
exercise gear on a day off and run into other people from the neighborhood. We love to go to Santa Fe when we have time, and always go The Shed for lunch. We love Arroyo Vino for dinner. It's such an interesting place and our former sommelier, Julian [Martinez] works there, so we have a friend to say hello to. When we go to San Francisco, we always stop in at Chez Panisse [in nearby Berkeley]. It's our favorite place in the world.
By 1989, they’d moved back to New Mexico and taken over the Artichoke Café, which fit their vision perfectly. The neighborhood didn’t have much going on at the time, but it fit their budget. With help from Terry's father, they purchased the building and set about not only building their business, but changing the neighborhood. Pat was instrumental in getting Old Albuquerque High School redeveloped by serving on Martin Chavez's technical team, which chose Rob Dixon to develop the school into loft apartments. Terry joined forces with Rob Dixon and other neighborhood activists to make Huning Highland Neighborhood not just a great historic destination but also a business destination by starting the East Downtown business district (Edo). Today Edo is one of the top restaurant destinations in Albuquerque, and it continues to grow and improve. In 2010, Pat had an idea to bring artisan pizza to Albuquerque, and they collaborated with their chef, Richard Winters, and sommelier, Stew Dorris, to open Farina Pizzeria. They followed that up by tapping Evan Keene and Sean Holler to open Farina Alto in northeast Albuquerque.
Do you have a serendipitous moment?
What do you love most about local food? Cuisine is the heart of a culture. Albuquerque's local food scene was always interesting because of its unique New Mexican cuisine, which is like none other in the world. Since 1989, and especially with the growth of farmers and farmers markets around Albuquerque and Santa Fe, our local food has become more diverse and interesting. It’s always so much more satisfying to eat at a local establishment that is done with style and serves local ingredients than it is to eat at a chain restaurant where the food may not even be made on the premises. The local food scene is always changing with the times and keeps us interested. Its places [allow us] to savor an experience, not just eat. What are some of your favorite places to eat and why? When we're not at one of our restaurants, we love to eat New Mexican food. We love Duran's Station on Menaul, which is near our house. Their food is fresh and delicious. We can go there in our Opposite, top: Pat and Terry Keene. Bottom, left: Artichoke Café's duck confit with black-peppered strawberries, snap peas, and beets. Bottom, right: Scallops with black morels. Photos by Stephanie Cameron.
What’s your favorite way to spend a day off? Our favorite way to spend a day off is to walk our golden retriever, Jax, at the North University Golf Course, work in our yard, and then have friends over for dinner. Pat gets to cook new things or old favorites, and Terry gets to share wines with his friends.
Pat: I was on my way to a doctor’s appointment and missed my turn on Montgomery. I made a U-turn and saw the for sale sign at a restaurant building. I called Terry and told him to call the sales agent. Now it’s Farina Alto! I often wonder if I'd have been aware that building was for sale if I didn't miss that turn. Tell us about your life outside Artichoke. We have an Airstream trailer which we use as much as we can. Terry loves to fly-fish and Pat loves "glamping" with great food and wine in the outdoors. We take it to the beach in California, to visit friends around the country, and to the national parks. This year we went to Yellowstone and Grand Teton. After the holidays, we'll be going to Joshua Tree, Palm Springs, and Malibu. Next summer, we plan to go to the Dakotas and Mount Rushmore, and we always take trips to rivers in Colorado for short fishing trips. We also like to meet friends from around the country at beach vacations like Club Med. This year we'll be going to Los Cabos. Terry is still involved in the Edo neighborhood board and Pat is involved in the Albuquerque Museum Foundation, where we do a donor's dinner every year. We also belong to the Albuquerque Community Foundation's Social Giving Club. We're empty nesters, but we have lots of family and friends who visit throughout the year, and that leads to large dinner gatherings. What we love most about our work is providing our customers with a great place to go out and enjoy a great meal and a great dining experience. We love the fact that we have had a chance to be a big part of the Albuquerque community through our businesses. Our passion really is great food and wine and we enjoy doing it at work as well as at home. How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? What brought us to where we are now is a love of what we do. Whenever we tell people what we do, they will say "Oh, that's a hard business." We never looked at it that way. Yes, we have had to work hard over the years, sometimes more than we wanted to, but we have had the privilege of having thriving businesses, and that's a great luxury. www.artichokecafe.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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Rancho de Chimayó AN INTERVIEW WITH FLORENCE P. JARAMILLO, OWNER/PRESIDENT BEST RESTAURANT, GREATER NEW MEXICO
Florence Jaramillo started Rancho de Chimayó with her husband, Arturo, in 1965. For more than fifty years, the restaurant has been a favorite of locals and travelers alike. When asked what led her to a life in the restaurant business, Florence answered, “I had always worked in some form of accounting. I always was interested in cooking and different foods. My dad was a very good cook. When we opened the restaurant, I worked in the kitchen. I learned how to make chile and how to increase the quantity. I made some French recipes that my father taught me for weekend specials. I always like working in the kitchen.” 12
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What do you love most about local food? I love the taste, and the fact that chile has a lot of vitamins and beans have a lot of proteins. What are some of your favorite places to eat and why? I like Osteria in Santa Fe, but I don’t go to too many places because of my age. I only get to leave my restaurant in winter and spring. I like Italian cooking. I also like La Fonda. My favorites are restaurants that use local produce.
What’s your favorite way to spend a day off? I don’t have too many of those, but when I get a chance, I usually go shopping for our bed and breakfast. New sheets and other linens, etc., and fruit from Costco. If the restaurant needs supplies, I’ll do that too. It’s a day in Albuquerque for me! Do you have a serendipitous moment? At my age, every day is serendipitous. For our forty-fifth anniversary in 2010, I decided to thank all our customers by running daily specials for $2.00 (1965 prices). I had so many customers I thought I was going to lose money, but at the end of the month, it turned out to be one of my best months!
Dear Santa,
I miss the sun.
Happy Holidays! Love & Light,
Your friends at Solarius
Tell us about your life outside of Rancho de Chimayó. I have been involved in quite a few associations and boards. At present, I am an honorary board member of the New Mexico Restaurant Association and the Los Alamos National Laboratory Foundation. I am also a director for our Food Industry Self Insurance Fund (FISIF) which handles workers comp claims for the food service industry in New Mexico. How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? I met my former husband in 1951 while on vacation. At the time Mr. Jaramillo was in the navy. He was from New Mexico. When his grandfather died, his family wanted him to move back, and we bought them out. We wanted to start a business and were encouraged by locals to open a restaurant. We sold our home in Connecticut and moved with our three-year old daughter to New Mexico. What do people always ask you? They want to know about the history of the area. Also about Chimayó chile. I just like talking to people and they tell me how they visited the area long ago. Who would you like to have lunch with if you got the chance? I’d have lunch with Pope Francis and I’d ask him what his favorite foods are. What makes you laugh? A good joke and seeing my customers, they make me happy.
CALL US FOR A CONSULTATION • 505-299-3116 •
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stay with us shop with us store gifts/accessories/baby 4022c rio grande blvd nw sarabandehome.com 505-344-1253
What gets you fired up? To get up every day and serve people good food.
a bed and
Is there anything else you’d like to share with edible readers?
breakfast
Thank you for being who you are and supporting the restaurant industry.
modern twist
with a
www.ranchodechimayo.com Opposite, left: Florence Jaramillo, photo courtesy of Rancho de Chimayó. Right: Carne adovada combo plate, photo by Stephanie Cameron.
5637 rio grande blvd nw sarabandebnb.com 505-348-5593 WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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LOCAL HEROES
Cherie Montoya FARM & TABLE OWNER OLLA AWARD / LOCAL HERO AWARD
Cherie Montoya, photo by Sergio Salvador.
Cherie Montoya, the president and owner of Farm & Table, has family roots in New Mexico that extend three hundred years, and is the mother of two. After pursuing architecture for five years, she spent thirteen years in development, working for several nonprofits. In 2004, she opened La Parada with her mother, and then, in 2012, she opened Farm & Table. The restaurant has since received local and national accolades and an overwhelming endorsement from the community. Its seasonally changing menu incorporates local ingredients from the onsite farm and from more than sixty-five other local farmers, ranchers, and food artisans. What do you love most about local food? Why? I love that local food connects us with the people, ecology, history, and traditions of a particular place, whether it be a specific area of 14
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town, another city, or a different part of the world. Here in Albuquerque, I love that local food has the ability to strengthen our community. I believe that when we grow, prepare, and share local food we are honoring the earth, our precious resources, and our health. When farmers grow and raise food with reverence for the land and without the use of dangerous herbicides, pesticides, and hormones, they are protecting the soil for future crops and producing the healthiest and most flavorful food one can buy. Now, more than ever, our community is making deliberate choices to support farmers and purchase locally. All who participate in the local food movement are helping to reduce carbon emissions, while helping to grow our local economy. Local food really does have the ability to strengthen our community, and who doesn’t love that!
What are some of your favorite places to eat? Besides eating at Farm & Table, I enjoy cooking and preparing meals at home. My partner Danny and I recently planted a modest garden and have found tremendous joy tending, harvesting, and preparing the fruits and vegetables of our labor. My favorite restaurant is La Boca in Santa Fe. Chef James Campbell Caruso has created a menu that features local ingredients in Spanish-style dishes that always burst with flavor. He is a creative, passionate, and wonderful person, and it shows in his food. What’s your favorite way to spend a day off? On a day off, I love heading outdoors to take advantage of New Mexico’s sunshine and blue skies. I enjoy a run in the bosque, a hike up in the mountains with friends, or escaping to Ojo Caliente for a luxurious soak. Do you have a serendipitous moment? I believe that life does not happen by accident. I have enjoyed so many “happy accidents,” for example, the ridiculous number of volunteer squash plants that appeared in my garden last season. On a larger scale, when I was creating the concept for Farm & Table, many people came in and out of my life. In the end, I found myself basically alone with this incredible idea but with very little experience. I continued to share my vision with those close and important to me and so began my journey as a restauranteur. You won the Olla Award because of your involvement in and commitment to the local food community—tell us a little bit about that. Since opening Farm & Table in 2012, I have come to recognize the importance of resiliency and trust in this industry. The daily operations of the restaurant are influenced by the same issues that affect our farmers: weather, pests, invasive species, harsh and sometimes unpredictable growing conditions, and seasons that always seem to be in flux. Sustaining the business is a complex process from beginning to end, which is why we have adapted as a team to become congruent with this natural flow of the seasons. I have also learned that making meaningful connections is a crucial part of my business. Each connection informs the next in a harmonious and cyclical pattern. This cycle begins with our farmer, Ric Murphy of Sol Harvest Farm, and all of the other local farmers and food artisans. Chef Carrie Eagle and her team play a crucial role as they take the food from the farm to the table to create delicious and inspired dishes. Our community completes this beautiful cycle by enjoying and sharing the fruits of our labor. This culminates in an experience that is distinctly Farm & Table and underscores our mission of supporting and celebrating local food. While complex and challenging, running Farm & Table is a true labor of love. Over the last six years our restaurant has played a significant role in our local food economy. It brings me great joy to make meaningful connections with farmers and creative individuals and then to deliver a beautiful experience to our guests. Last year we purchased over 20,000 pounds of local produce from neighboring farmers, more
than 11,000 pounds of beef, 6,000 pounds of pork, and 6,000 pounds of cheese. We also provided a living wage to more than twenty-five full-time employees. These numbers illustrate that just in our small corner of the community local food can make a significant impact. Tell us about your life outside of Farm & Table. I am also involved in the arts and cultural community and absolutely love working with people who are passionate and creative. I am fortunate to live in a community where art and culture is central to its identity. In addition to growing my modest personal art collection, I enjoy attending art openings and festivals, galleries and museums, the opera, and supporting local artists and arts organizations in New Mexico. How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? Before I was a restaurant owner, I worked thirteen years in the nonprofit industry. I worked with New Mexico AIDS Services, the Downtown Action Team, the New Mexico Symphony Orchestra, and the National Hispanic Cultural Center. While I loved contributing to the community and to the arts, a series of “serendipitous moments” (and the urging of my family) pushed me to follow a new path. I began to pursue the idea of opening a farm and restaurant on a twelve-acre piece of land that my father purchased to save from development in an area where my family has a history dating back seven generations. I hoped to revive an important community tradition of growing food and honoring my grandparents, who raised food with joy and pride as a way of life. I was inspired by a local farmer who encouraged me to explore the concept of growing food onsite. I began talking with potential farmers about growing food on the farm, and, in the summer of 2010, sought advice from several successful restaurant owners and chefs. One particular chef proposed that we open the restaurant as partners. However, after nine months of intense research and planning we decided to part ways. I continued to seek advice and counsel from many others, which propelled me through the many challenges I faced opening the restaurant. What makes you laugh? I love to laugh! My partner and I like to listen to the news/politics through comedy for a little relief from the ridiculous current happenings. It’s more palatable that way! Is there anything else you'd like to share with edible readers? Please join us at Farm & Table! Take a stroll around Sol Harvest Farm, visit our store La Parada, and enjoy a delicious meal with gorgeous views of our ten-acre farm. We are open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday and for brunch on Saturday and Sunday. We offer special prix-fixe dinners every month—our next dinner is an Ethiopian dinner on December 11. www.farmandtablenm.com
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CHEF'S TABLE
Hyper-Local, Hyper-Seasonal ROCKY DURHAM PRESENTS AN EVER-EVOLVING EXPERIENCE By Michael J. Dax · Photos by Stephanie Cameron
Left: Rocky Durham shows off his award-winning green chile cheeseburger. Right: Durham plates a bowl of bouillabaisse.
Fifteen minutes from Santa Fe’s plaza, Sunrise Springs Resort sits on seventy acres in La Cienega—a green oasis fed by its namesake spring. Peach, apple, cherry, and pear trees; lush grasses; a modest garden; and plenty of shade provide visitors an escape from the hot summer sun. For centuries, travelers have stopped at the springs, which produce sixty gallons of water a minute, to relax and enjoy the unique atmosphere—a tradition Rocky Durham, executive chef of the Blue Heron at Sunrise Springs, aims to continue. “I refer to the Blue Heron as the oasis within the oasis,” says Durham, a Santa Fe native. As a teenager, Durham got his start washing dishes at La Frogerie. He was immediately drawn to the comradery of the kitchen. “What I 16
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loved most about it was being on a team and working on a crew,” he says. “That really inspired me.” His grand ambition as a teenager was to work as a line cook, but after ten years on the line, he returned to school to study French technique. Since then, he has worked on five continents, including time in rural Patagonia and a stint in London, where he started a Santa Fe restaurant group, serving New Mexican– inspired food across England. Although he loved his time overseas, he admits that cooking real New Mexican food isn’t fully possible outside the Land of Enchantment. Drawing a parallel to the distinction between Champagne and sparkling wine, Durham asserts, “You can’t really make New Mexican
CHEF'S TABLE
Top left, clockwise: Bouillabaisse ingredients coming together in the pan; bouillabaisse; award-winning green chile cheeseburger; goat brie en croรปte with Tesuque apricot gastrique and English pea hummus. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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food with California chiles.” It’s a philosophy he has brought to the Blue Heron. “One thing I really do embrace is giving it a sense of place,” he says. “When you’re here eating my food, I want there to be a sense that you’re in La Cienega, New Mexico.” To do this, Durham sources many of his ingredients from the small garden and greenhouse located onsite. He also procures food from the two-acre garden at Ojo Caliente, a sister property, where he works with onsite farmer, Mark DeRespinis, who grows beans, Brussels sprouts, peas, lettuces, herbs, chiles, squash, and tomatoes, as well as a new favorite, pineapple tomatillos. “[DeRespinis] is amazing,” lauds Durham. “I tell him what I like to work with and he tells me if he can grow it.” Additionally, Durham forages for mushrooms that make their way into the menu, based on availability. For Durham, it’s not just about using local ingredients and ensuring that his food complements his restaurant’s setting. He’s also committed to what he describes as hyper-seasonality. “When I have porcini from the Jemez, I’m sorry, you’re going to eat them,” he asserts, unapologetically. Because he has embraced this idea of hyper-seasonality, he’s not afraid to change his menu as needed. While Durham may keep a base dish on the menu from week to week, he’ll play with it to highlight available ingredients and allow for natural growth and progression. “The whole menu is in constant evolution,” says Durham. “We change, sometimes daily.” This unpredictability and constant development is another staple of Durham’s style. He encourages his cooks to improve their work and pay close attention to any detail that may have influenced a dish’s final
outcome. “Every time you cook something, try to do it a little better,” he insists. This often leads to new ideas, tweaks and twists, so while Durham cannot guarantee that the ravioli a customer orders next week will be the same as the ravioli served last week, he promises that it will be just as, if not more, delicious. Durham’s continued interest and engagement with the food he cooks derives from his ability to remain flexible. Often this takes the form of allowing whatever ingredients are available to dictate what he makes, but he also admits that his iconoclastic nature feeds his insatiable desire for change. If someone falls in love with a dish and tells Durham that he can’t take it off the menu, it’s likely to have the opposite effect. “I don’t want to be held hostage by my menu,” he explains. Of course, the one exception to Durham’s mantra of evolution is the green chile cheeseburger, which recently won edible’s annual Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown. “In New Mexico, on a lunch menu, you should have a green chile cheeseburger,” contends Durham. “That’s culturally our thing. For it to be recognized that ours is exceptional means a lot to us.” And while the burger has a safe spot on the menu, Durham’s team has continued to improve each element that goes into its production. The chiles are carefully seasoned, the lettuce is meticulously dressed, and even the pickle isn’t taken for granted. “Anyone can win a Beard Award,” jokes Durham. “I’d like to see them win a Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown.” More seriously, he adds, “I’m a local boy. That’s the competition you want to win.” 242 Los Pinos Road, Santa Fe, 505-780-8145 sunrisesprings.ojospa.com
Performances Friday - Sunday
Tickets: TablaoFlamenco.org World-class performances • Tapas • Custom cocktails Located in Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town 505.222.8797 | 800 Rio Grande Blvd. NW | HotelABQ.com
A partnership between Heritage Hotels & Resorts and the National Institute of Flamenco
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FACES OF FOOD
Grass Farmers WHEN THE GRASS ISN'T GREENER SOMEPLACE ELSE By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher
Left to right: Paul Neubauer, Hana Fancher, Julie Sullivan, and George Whitten on the San Juan Ranch. Photo by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher.
Supporting and celebrating local food seems straightforward when you go to the farmer’s market and you can chat with the person who grew your produce, but many of the systems, policies, processes, and infrastructure needed to have resilient regional food systems are often harder to see and to make sense of. This is the first installment of edible's new Faces of Food column, which will highlight some of the folks who work to make systemic changes in our food systems to regionalize production, distribution, and markets. It will focus on some of the unsung heroes of local food and how the work they do makes a difference. 20
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Grass-finishing beef in the Southwest is not an easy undertaking. Our climate is dry, and our drought-prone grasslands can be sparse and brittle. Providing a year-round supply of local grass-finished beef to regional grocery chains is impossible—almost. Raising grass-fed beef that also supports regional economies and mitigates climate change takes vision, persistence, and a pioneering spirit. George Whitten and Julie Sullivan, cattle ranchers operating the San Juan Ranch near Saguache, Colorado, finish their beef on grass. They have spent the last twenty years trialing systems of grass-finished meat in an effort to run a profitable business, keep their community vital,
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FACES OF FOOD
Top left: Elliott Salazar Jr. on the Rockin S Ranch in Antonito, CO. Bottom left: David Colville and crew from Corset Ranch in Del Norte, CO, moving the cattle to the mountain pasture. Photos by Caleigh Payne.
and save the planet. Beginning in the late 1990s, Whitten and Sullivan embarked on a journey to produce economically viable grass-fed beef that doesn’t require huge amounts of inputs, at a scale that some years might even produce a profit. In their exploration, they have tested and created a number of feeding systems and business models that may be the prototypes for the new, climate-positive method of western beef production. Typically in the West, the beef we eat is raised in open-range cowcalf operations, then sold to finishers who feed the cows grain in feedlots for six months before they’re slaughtered. In a grain-finishing system, a beef will get to a profitable sale weight in about one hundred days, but a grass-finishing system may take almost twice as long. When cattle aren’t standing around eating a high-calorie diet, it takes 22
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them longer to reach a saleable weight. It also means that they need a lot of grass, rain or shine, year-round. Whitten and Sullivan ranch in the San Luis Valley of Colorado, the coldest place in the continental US (in terms of the average annual number of nights below freezing), so the season for grass is short. When they decided to stop selling their calves into a grain-finishing system, they had to figure out how to produce enough grass to feed calves through the winter, and enough food for cattle to get fat enough to satisfy customer expectations. Working with agronomist Patrick O’Neill, they started by planting diverse, high-calorie cover crop mixes for hay in a few of their irrigated pastures. After several years of schlepping the hay to cows, they
realized that hay production was an extractive process. By growing the hay, then cutting, baling, moving, and feeding it to cows in a different location, they were essentially extracting the nutritional capacity of the soil and not returning it. Everything taken off the farm, whether vegetable or animal, takes nutrition with it, and the nutrition would need to be replenished for things to continue to grow. They realized they needed a system where the nutrients could stay where they are. Whitten and Sullivan describe this as an aha moment. Rather than cutting and baling hay and moving it to the cows, they would cut hay in the field, then move the cows to it. This simple change in the system reduced a number of steps in the process, while simultaneously tightening the nutrient cycle.
BODEGA PRIME
The San Luis Valley supports over 80,000 irrigated acres producing potatoes, head lettuce, barley, quinoa, and alfalfa. A series of drought years from 2002 to 2012 marked an important and pivotal moment for the San Juan Ranch and their neighbors because farmers and ranchers in the area were faced, for the first time ever, with having to buy water for agriculture. Making the most out of every drop became critical, and the best way to do this was to ensure that the soil had enough cover and organic matter to hold onto precious moisture. Suddenly, Whitten and Sullivan’s cover-cropping strategies had new significance. They started working with farmers in the valley, paying them to grow cover crops for their cows to eat between production cycles. The moment of hardship produced an interesting opportunity: They could help farmers reduce their water use by increasing their soil organic matter, with the added benefit of better nutrient cycling (cows peeing and pooping in the fields), which would also reduce the need for chemical fertilizer. Whitten and Sullivan helped form the Sweet Grass Co-op in 2010. They recognized that to grow their business to a scale that allowed them to focus on raising consistent and high quality grassfed beef and establishing the forage chains needed to support that production, they needed volume and access to larger, wholesale markets. With support from La Montañita Co-op, in partnership with a half dozen Colorado and New Mexico cattle producers, they formed a grass-fed beef business producing enough volume year-round to supply all the La Montañita stores, as well as many of their customers who purchase through the Co-op Distribution Center (eighty percent of the Co-op’s beef is from New Mexico). Today, Sweet Grass, even in the face of increasing market pressure from imported grass-fed beef from Brazil, New Zealand, and Australia, continues to remain viable because of consistently highquality product, cooperative support from La Montañita, and consumers who recognize the value of regionally raised grass-fed beef. When you choose to buy Sweet Grass beef, you’re supporting Southern Colorado and New Mexico beef producers committed to making the most of their water, working with their neighbors, and keeping agricultural land in our area viable into the future. sweetgrasscoop.com, lamontanita.coop
breakfast & lunch | tuesday-friday | 8a-3p brunch | saturdays & sundays | 10a-3pm
reservations recommended | full service | monthly menu
local first. organic always. scratch to table.
bodega prime 1291 san felipe avenue santa fe, new mexico 87505 505.303.3535 | www.bodegaprime.com
LIQUID TOURISM
Old and New Perspectives FROM CENTRAL SOUTHERN NEW MEXICO By Sam L. Melada
Jasper Riddle of Noisy Water Winery in Ruidoso. Photo courtesy of Noisy Water Winery.
Liquid Tourism looks south to Lincoln and Otero counties, where I had the opportunity to speak with two people who keep old winemaking traditions alive with an eye on the future. Both winemakers help illuminate the tremendous gift of land and climate we have here, and how it contributes to New Mexico’s emergence into the world of winemaking in the United States. I caught up with Dave Wickham, owner and operator of Tularosa Winery, to get some perspective from a seasoned winemaker. He started growing cabernet sauvignon, chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, and muscat in 1989 and in the twenty-eight years since has added many more varietals to his repertoire. His decades of experience have taught him what is possible for southern New Mexico winemakers. When asked what the biggest advantage of growing wine grapes in his region is, he replied, “Being close to the mountains makes a huge difference. We have cold nights and warm days and the grapes really like that.” One of the biggest challenges he has faced was the 2011 freeze that obliterated many of his vines. “It took them down to the graft 24
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level at the soil surface,” he explained. “Older grapes didn’t fair so well, like cabernet and grenache, but the newer plantings fared much better, including malbec.” Seven years on, the winery is still recovering from this devastating event. For Wickham, this has demonstrated the need to focus on more cold-hardy varietals. Another advantage he shared is that Tularosa doesn’t face the challenges with alkalinity found in other wine growing parts of the state. “We have a lower pH here and we don’t have to correct as much.” What does this mean to the curious wine drinker? For one thing, Wickham’s wines avoid what he calls the “Pop-tart effect.” When winemakers have to use tartaric acid to balance their pH, the wines take on a bright acidity in the glass that makes them taste almost like a Pop-tart. While Wickham hasn’t had as much success with chardonnay, due to its vulnerability to spring frost, he has had tremendous success with old mission grapes, which have been disregarded by winegrowers elsewhere in the state. When visiting the tasting room, try the Enchantment Blend, made from a blend that includes mission grapes, to enjoy
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LIQUID TOURISM
Above: Dave Wickham of Tularosa Winery, photo courtesy of NM Wine. Right: Barrel room and barn at Noisy Water Winery, photos courtesy of Noisy Water Winery.
an unparalleled experience with a light-bodied red whose unique aromatic qualities are distinctive to southern New Mexico. For a different perspective, I spoke to Jasper Riddle of Noisy Water Winery in Ruidoso. He took the reins in 2010 after working for NBC Sports and coaching college football. He echoed Wickham’s remarks about the advantages of growing in a climate that has a thirty-five to forty degree diurnal shift. “It lets the grapes concentrate flavors during the day and recover at night.” He has had luck with the malbec grape as well, but has also put his energy into growing unusual varietals like chambourcin, which he describes as “pinot noir meets merlot.” He touted his Tighty Whitey White blend and Big Legs Red as wines worth checking out at either of his two tasting rooms in Ruidoso or at the tasting room in Cloudcroft. What does Riddle see in New Mexico’s wine future? “We have generations of farmers here that have grown chile or nuts and some of 26
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them are taking an interest in grape growing. The best thing about doing all this in New Mexico is that people want to collaborate.” While he still feels it’s crucial to provide sweet wines like his awardwinning sparkling moscato, he says, “more people are getting used to drinking wine as an activity and many begin to branch out into trying drier wines now.” This is an endeavor that a curious wine taster can pursue in Ruidoso when not going to the races, shopping Midtown’s quirky shops, or spending the day on the slopes this winter. Both of these winemakers have an optimistic view of the future of winemaking in New Mexico and our ability to make our presence known in the rest of the country, but it takes patrons to make it happen. As we continue our journeys here at Liquid Tourism, I hope readers can explore (and share) the tremendous diversity and quality of what’s being made by both new and old winemakers in New Mexico. www.noisywaterwinery.com, www.tularosavineyards.com
EDIBLE CRAFT COCKTAIL
TRANQUILO
By Quinn Stephenson 1.5 ounces Roca Patron Añejo tequila 3 ounces pear nectar 1/4 teaspoon caramel 2 drops vanilla paste Caramel for rim Gently heat the pear nectar in a pan, then stir in the caramel and the vanilla paste to dissolve. Place the mixture in the refrigerator to chill. In a mixing glass, stir Roca Patron Añejo with ice. Strain into a shaker with no ice. Stir the chilled pear nectar into the tequila and serve in a chilled caramel-rimmed martini glass. To rim the glass Use a knife to spread creamy caramel over a plate; then gently roll the outside rim of a martini glass around the plate. Place glass in freezer to chill.
THE CANTINA IS OPEN YEAR ROUND!
*This cocktail can also be enjoyed hot. Should you want to drink it hot, add the tequila during the first step and enjoy right off the stove.
The Coyote Cantina has been completely enclosed for the cold weather season and is now open year round! Come cozy up with the fireplace, delicious winter cocktails and some of your favorite New Mexican comfort foods. We hope to see you soon! 132 W Water St, Santa Fe 505-983-1615 • coyotecafe.com
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COOKING FRESH
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Indulging in the Season
EATING WELL ALL WINTER Recipes and photos by Tara Lanich-LaBrie
BACKYARD APPLE ICE CREAM WITH ROSE HIP SALTED CARAMEL SAUCE
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RED KURI SQUASH PIE WITH CHIMAYÓ CHILE PECAN STREUSEL
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SEASONAL RAMEN BOWL WITH MISO SQUASH BROTH
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BLUE CORN AND ALMOND FLOUR DONUTS
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ROASTED BLACK KALE SALAD WITH BLACK SESAME DRESSING
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Pictured: Seasonal ramen bowl with miso squash broth. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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COOKING FRESH
Backyard apple ice cream with rose hip salted caramel sauce.
T
here is no mistaking the scent of piñon woodsmoke curling from adobe chimneys, signaling the coming winter in New Mexico. Colder weather inspires the natural desire to insulate our bodies against the falling temperatures. Sugary treats and processed fatty foods are often the answer to holiday hankerings, but seasonal, nutrient-dense foods can satisfy any palate. Adding locally grown, organic, and foraged vegetables and preserved fruits, in a rich array of colors, can give new life to the well-loved dishes. The incredible variety of highly nutritious foods can be a boon to one's diet, helping to reduce inflammation, adding muchneeded vitamins and minerals, supporting blood sugar imbalances, increasing metabolic function, and leaving you more truly sated for hours.
BACKYARD APPLE ICE CREAM WITH ROSE HIP SALTED CARAMEL SAUCE Serves 4
Apples are a great storage crop, a way to incorporate pectin and fiber in your diet, and they always seem to get bet30
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ter after the first frost. A perfect balance of sweet and salty with a boozy bite, this recipe evokes caramel apples and pie without the blood sugar crash. I make the caramel with local honey, leaving out the processed corn syrup, adding the antibiotic effects of honey, and giving a wonderful floral flavor to the caramel. Rose hip powder, which is higher in vitamin C than an orange, can be found online at mountainroseherbs.com, or it can be left out. Piñon nuts are local and foraged in New Mexico from the trees of the same name, but can also be found in most grocery stores, labeled simply as pine nuts. Ice Cream 5–6 crisp apples Juice of 1 lemon 2 tablespoons apple brandy; try Santa Fe Spirits' barrel-aged apple brandy 3/4 cup maple syrup 2/3 cup full fat coconut milk from a can (can also use heavy cream) You need an ice cream maker Stale for this recipe. the Tortilla Pork Chop Tamales. bythe Stephanie apples and add to a blender; Photo leaving skins onCameron. reaps the
Mexican Restaurant
Homemade Mexican food served in a casual southwest atmosphere in Red River. Appetizers, Sundance specials, lots of combos, sopapillas, and steaks. Beer, wine, sangria, and wine margaritas available. Reservations recommended.
401 E High Street, Red River, 575-754-2971
MADE IN NEW MEXICO
Open for Lunch Tuesday-Sunday. Open for Dinner Everyday. Happy Hour Tuesday-Sunday 2-5 PM. 30 craft beers on tap. 614 Trinity Drive, Los Alamos • 505-662-8877 pajaritobrewpubandgrill.com
HO FR EE LID for L I ACTIVITIES FOR KIDS · SANTA Kid G H AY T s1 2& S FESTIVE BEVERAGES · ENTERTAINMENT!
Un de r!
America’s only traditional balsamic, ours is crafted with organic estate grapes. As of this year, it is aged 20 years in rare wood Italian casks.
Bridging Time A R T F U L I L L U M I N AT I O N O F N AT U R E AT S A N TA F E B O TA N I C A L G A R D E N
PREVIEW PARTY Wednesday, December 6 5:30–7:30pm | Tickets Online
Open Nightly December 15–31, 5–8pm CLOSED Christmas Eve & Christmas Tickets at the Door & Online | Early Bird & Group Rates $8 Member | $10 Nonmember
715 Camino Lejo · 505.471.9103
santafebotanicalgarden.org SPONSORED BY:
Available for purchase at the Farm Shop lospoblanos.com|505.938.2192 or online at organicbalsamic.com
ALLSTATE QUEZADA JACOBS FAMILY · CITY OF SANTA FE ARTS COMMISSION · GEMINI ROSEMONT COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE · LA FONDA ON THE PLAZA · NEDRA MATTEUCCI GALLERIES · ROGER STUTZ · WHOLE BRAIN DESIGN
COOKING FRESH
Red kuri squash pie with Chimayó chile pecan streusel.
most nutrients from the apples. Add all the liquid ingredients and blend on high until puréed. Pour into an ice cream maker and follow instructions from manufacturer. If desired, try just freezing it. I recommend taking it out every 15 minutes and rapidly hand-stirring to simulate the effect of an ice cream maker. Serve with salted caramel sauce (see below) and lightly toasted piñon nuts. Rose Hip Salted Caramel Sauce 1 cup local honey 3/4 cup heavy cream 2 tablespoons salted butter 1 1/2 teaspoon vanilla 1 tablespoon rose hip powder 1–2 teaspoon salt Topping 1/4 cup piñon nuts You will need a large skillet, a bowl, and a whisk. I use a heavy-bottomed cast-iron skillet to make caramel. In the skillet, combine honey and heavy cream over medium heat. Using a metal whisk, begin to whisk the two together, making sure to move in large circles around the pan. The honey and cream will boil up and then back down, and will begin to look like soft, tan leather. Now add butter and whisk until blended. Pour caramel sauce into the bowl, and add vanilla, 32
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salt, and rose hip powder. Pour over ice cream immediately, or save in a sealed jar in the refrigerator to reheat when ready to use; it will stay good for at least 2 weeks. The final touch is toasting 1/4 cup of piñon nuts in a small skillet on the stove until they begin to brown. Top the ice cream and caramel sauce with the toasted piñon for a delicious nutty flavor that rounds out the whole dessert.
RED KURI SQUASH PIE WITH CHIMAYÓ CHILE PECAN STREUSEL This is a twist on the traditional pumpkin pie, incorporating locally grown pecans, which are packed with manganese, copper, and healthy fats that aid in reducing inflammation and support an increased metabolism. You can use pie pumpkin or hubbard squash for this recipe, but I love the texture and the hint of chestnut that come with red kuri squash. All winter squash is low in calories and high in fiber, as well as vitamins A, C, and B6. A frozen pie crust makes this recipe move along faster. Pie Crust 3/4 cup white flour 1/2 cup whole wheat flour 1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup very cold chopped butter 4–6 tablespoons very cold water Put the flour, salt, and chopped cold butter into a food processor, and run until dough comes together and looks like little granules or pea-sized balls. Take out the mixture and put into a bowl, slowly adding tablespoons of cold water and pushing the dough together until it just sticks together. The secret to flaky pie crust is to barely work it at all. Once together, form it into a ball and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Put in the freezer for 1–2 hours to chill. When you’re ready to roll it out, remove it from the plastic and lightly flour a flat surface. Once workable, roll the dough ball into an even circle large enough to overflow a 9-inch deep dish pie pan. Place in the pie pan and crimp the sides of the crust. Remove any excess dough. Brush the bottom with a little heavy cream and pour in the filling. Pie Filling 2 cups roasted red kuri squash (about one whole squash) 2 tablespoons flour 1/3 cup coconut sugar (can substitute brown sugar) 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt 1 1/4 cups full fat coconut milk (can substitute heavy cream) 3 eggs 1 cup maple syrup Preheat oven to 425° F. Place the whole red kuri squash (about 2 1/2 pounds) on a baking sheet and poke several holes in it with a knife. Roast for 30–45 minutes, checking after 25 minutes to see if it is softening. Once it is soft and caves a bit to the touch, remove and cut it in half, scooping out all the seeds and stringy bits. Put 2 cups of squash into a large mixing bowl, and add all other ingredients. Blend with a hand blender and pour into the waiting pie shell. Bake the pie for 15 minutes at 425° F, and then lower the temperature to 350° F, baking until the filling is near firm, around 40 minutes. During this time you can create the pecan streusel. Red Chile Pecan Streusel 1 cup local, organic pecans 1/4 cup coconut sugar (can substitute brown sugar) 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 2 tablespoons white wheat flour 1 1/2 teaspoons Chimayó red chile powder (or other local red chile) 2 tablespoons diced cold butter
Find Holiday Cheer at
Susan’s Fine Wine & Spirits We gift wrap bottles We have an extremely knowledgable staff One of the largest selections of wine, craft beer, and spirits in town The selection you desire and the service you deserve.
SFWineandSpirits.com 1005 S St Francis Drive | 505-984-1582 | Mon. - Sat. 10am - 8pm, Open Sundays 12-6pm Nov. 26 - Dec. 31 WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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COOKING FRESH Lightly toast the pecans in a small skillet and let them cool in a bowl while combining coconut sugar, cinnamon, flour, and chile powder. Toss pecans in the dry mixture and then add diced cold butter, working it in until it creates small clumps. Add the streusel mixture to the top of the pie filling after it has hardened slightly in the oven, at around 40 minutes. Let bake for another 15 minutes. The filling will still be slightly wobbly in the center, but will set up after it rests on a cooling rack.
SEASONAL RAMEN BOWL WITH MISO SQUASH BROTH Serves 4–6
This is a flavorful, seasonal version of a ramen bowl, livening up the traditional squash soups that grace many holiday tables. Add as many or as few seasonal ingredients as you like—keep it simple, or experiment with new combinations. Ramen is often characterized by the much sought after flavor profile umami, which is loosely translated as yummy in Japanese. In one-dollar ramen packets, this flavor is approximated with MSG, but it can be activated naturally with fermented foods such as soy sauce, miso, seaweed, sun-dried tomatoes, parmesan, and cooked meat. 1/4 cup dried Hijiki or Wakame seaweed, soaked and strained 1 hard-boiled egg per person, split in half 1–2 tablespoons kimchi per person (this spicy pickled cabbage is available at most major health food stores) 1 purple daikon radish, cut in rounds (can use any kind of radish) 1 bunch of purple or rainbow carrots, split lengthwise 3 tablespoons coconut oil Sea salt 1 package (16–20 ounces) extra firm tofu, cubed Soy sauce 1 tablespoon tamarind paste (could also use lime juice) 2 teaspoons maple syrup 1 1/2 tablespoons lightly toasted black sesame seeds (can use white also) 1 head of chopped escarole (can use other bitter or winter greens also, such as chard) Sesame oil 3–4 cloves of garlic, crushed 2 teaspoons brown or black mustard seeds 1/2 head of cauliflower, chopped 1 teaspoon of turmeric powder 2 medium-sized celery roots, shredded 1 package of frozen or dried and rehydrated chopped shiitake mushrooms (or fresh wild mushrooms), about 8 ounces 34
edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2017
2 packages Lotus Foods forbidden rice black ramen noodles 8 cups bone broth, vegetable stock, dashi, or water 1–2 cups roasted winter squash or pumpkin 1/4 cup miso paste (I like adzuki bean miso paste) I like to have several bowls on the table filled with ramen toppings and create an interactive meal, so I recommend having bowls ready for the ingredients as they come off the stove. You can prepare the hard-boiled eggs and soak the seaweed 2–4 hours before you begin cooking, and then place in separate bowls. Set out bowls of kimchi and the purple daikon radish, cut into thin rounds. Heat the oven to 400° F. Split your rainbow carrots lengthwise into 2 or 4 pieces, depending on their size. Place split carrots on a cookie sheet, and rub with coconut oil and sprinkle with sea salt. Bake carrots until they soften but retain a little crunch, about 15 minutes. Remove carrots and transfer to a bowl or plate. While carrots are baking, chop tofu into small squares. In a medium sized bowl, add the tamarind paste or lime juice, 1 teaspoon of maple syrup, and 2 tablespoons of soy sauce. Mix well and add tofu, coating it with the sauce. Heat 1 tablespoon of coconut oil in a skillet, and using a slotted spoon, move the tofu to the heated skillet. Fry on medium heat until it browns; then pour remaining liquid into the pan. Stir while heating for about 2 minutes. Add the lightly toasted sesame seeds, and transfer tofu to a bowl, covering to keep warm. Chop escarole loosely and warm about 1 tablespoon of sesame oil in a skillet. Add crushed garlic to the skillet and sauté until garlic begins to get glassy. Add greens and sauté until softened, mixing garlic in completely. Transfer to a bowl and cover to keep warm. Warm 1 tablespoon of coconut oil in a skillet and add the 2 teaspoons of mustard seeds. When they begin to pop, add the chopped cauliflower florets, 1 teaspoon of turmeric powder, salt to taste, and a splash of water or broth. Cover the pan and let the cauliflower soften. Transfer to a bowl to add to the finished soup. I love celery root, and I prepare it simply to show off its unique flavor. In a skillet, warm about a tablespoon of coconut oil, and then add the finely shredded celery root, with salt to taste. I like mine crispier, but watch that it does not burn, stirring frequently. Transfer to a bowl for the table. Add a tablespoon of sesame oil or butter to a skillet to warm. Loosely chop the mushrooms and sauté until lightly browned, adding salt to taste. Transfer these to a bowl for the table.
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COOKING FRESH
Blue corn and almond flour donuts.
Fill a large pot with water and follow the package directions for the ramen noodles. It is fine to use any kind of ramen noodles, but the Lotus Food Ramen Noodles are gluten free and come out a beautiful dark purple. Strain the noodles and add some equally to each bowl that will be served. To assemble the broth, add the 8 cups of stock or water to a second large pot. Blend in the roasted squash and add the miso. Heat to almost boiling; this preserves the living enzymes in the miso. Add soy sauce to taste and more miso, if necessary. Ladle the broth over the noodles and then assemble your perfect ramen bowl with all the fixings.
BLUE CORN AND ALMOND FLOUR DONUTS Makes 9 large donuts
I love donuts, and these incorporate the healthy fats and protein of almond and coconut, while using only maple syrup as a sweetener. This recipe is a great way to exhibit the flavors of the season and satisfy even the most discerning sweet tooth. You will need a regular sized donut mold; this recipe will make 9 donuts in a Wappa silicone mold.
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1 1/2 cups almond flour (available in most health food stores and online at honeyville.com) 1 cup blue cornmeal 1/4 cup coconut flour 1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1 1/2 tablespoons real vanilla extract 4 eggs, beaten 1/2 cup maple syrup 1/2 cup coconut milk (or any milk of your choosing) 1/2 cup melted coconut oil Preheat the oven to 350° F. In a large bowl, mix all the dry ingredients together. Using a hand blender or mixer, blend the eggs, vanilla extract, maple syrup, and coconut milk together. Pour wet ingredients into the dry and mix together; then add the warmed coconut oil and stir in quickly. Fill the donut molds about 2/3 full, and then even them out using the back of a spoon. Bake for 35 minutes, inserting a toothpick and making sure it comes out clean. Once they have cooled, turn the mold over, pop them out, and begin topping.
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COOKING FRESH
Roasted black kale salad with black sesame dressing.
Toppings
Toppings for Frosted Donuts
I went the easy route and bought a container of maple butter, which is creamed maple syrup, and does not contain butter. It makes an excellent frosting. I buy Shady Maple Farms Organic Maple Butter, which can be found online or in select health food stores. If you want to experiment with creating your own, there are many recipes online.
Use these toppings on the chocolate hazelnut spread or the maple butter.
For a twist on the traditional chocolate donut, I use Rigoni di Asiago Nocciolata Organic Hazelnut & Cocoa Spread, which is dairy-free and delicious. This is available at some local health food stores and online. Maple Caramelized Piñon Topping 1 cup piñon nuts 1/4 cup maple syrup 1/4 teaspoon sea salt Warm a small skillet and add the piñon nuts, sea salt, and maple syrup, stirring until the liquid is absorbed into the nuts and they begin to crystallize and clump together. Let the mixture cool and then break it up and sprinkle on either the maple or chocolate topped donuts.
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Maldon crisp salt: add sparingly to the chocolate and hazelnut spread for a sweet and salty flavor Local red chile powder: sprinkle some on the chocolate, hazelnut, or maple donuts for a spicy and festive flavor Local green chile powder Pomegranate seeds Edible dried or fresh flowers (bachelor buttons, marigold petals, rose petals, chamomile, borage, calendula, or sweet alyssum) Matcha green tea powder
ROASTED BLACK KALE SALAD WITH BLACK SESAME DRESSING Serves 2–4
Often called lacinato or dino kale, you can find this dark leafy green at your local farmer’s market into the early winter. Kale has a reputation as a superfood for good reason, containing B-grade heirloom tomato sauce. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.
an incredible amount of lutein, vitamins K, A, C, and manganese and copper. Adding seasonal and preserved fruits and vegetables makes this warm salad a welcome and colorful addition to any winter table. 2 large bunches of lacinato or dino kale, removed from the main stem and torn into 2-inch pieces 1/4 cup of large flake coconut, unsweetened 4 tablespoons toasted sesame oil 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2–3 purple carrots, finely shredded 1/2 of one pomegranate, seeds removed 1/4 cup sun-dried tomatoes 1/4 dried golden berries/ground cherries or dried tart cherries, unsweetened Purple daikon radish, cut in thin rounds Edible flowers, if available 1/8 cup pickled radish or pickled purple cabbage Preheat the oven to 425° F. Spread torn kale and flaked coconut evenly onto 2 large baking sheets. Pour half of the toasted sesame oil and soy sauce on one sheet and half on the other. Use your hands to coat the kale and coconut with the oil and sauce, and put both sheets into the preheated oven. Check every 5–7 minutes, using a spatula to rotate the
kale and coconut, roasting both pans. Once the kale has reduced in size and is beginning to get some brown or crisped edges, pull out both pans evenly. Let cool a few minutes; then combine in a large salad bowl. Starting from the center, add a pile of purple shredded carrot; sprinkle on pomegranate seeds; add tomatoes and ground cherries; add the purple daikon rounds; and place the brightly colored pickle in the center on top of the carrots. Dress with toasted black sesame dressing and serve. Toasted Black Sesame Dressing 3 tablespoons pan-toasted black sesame seeds 1/4 cup olive oil 1/4 water Juice and rind of 1 small lime 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon maple syrup In a small skillet, lightly toast the black sesame seeds; add to the blender. Add the remaining ingredients, and blend all ingredients together, dressing the salad to taste. Save what you don't use for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator.
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Fracking in New Mexico CREATES UNCERTAIN FUTURE FOR LAND AND PEOPLE
O
By Michael J. Dax · Photos by Stephanie Cameron
n a brisk autumn day outside Counselor in New Mexico’s northwest corner, bluebirds dip and dive as cows lazily graze on sparse, late-season forage amid a sea of sagebrush. If not for the seesawing of a nearby pumpjack and the hum of a generator powering the rig, the scene might not warrant a second glance. Wide open vistas and occasional outcroppings of badlands once distinguished the stretch of US 550 between Cuba and Farmington; yet over the past decade, dozens of hydraulically fracked oil and gas wells, sitting just a stone’s throw from the road, have interrupted this once tranquil scene. Of course, the view from the highway is just the beginning. Forty thousand wells have been drilled in the San Juan Basin since oil and gas was first discovered at the turn of the twenty-first century, including four hundred new wells that have been drilled near Counselor since 2015. According to the San Juan Citizens Alliance, an environmental non-profit organization based in Durango, ninety-one percent of the public land surrounding Chaco Canyon National Historical Park has been leased for oil and gas exploration. Much of the remaining nine percent lies within a ten-mile radius of the park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that houses some of the most important Ancestral Puebloan ruins. If oil and gas companies have their way, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) could make these remaining parcels available for drilling in the near future. This worries Daniel Tso, who served on the Navajo Nation Council from 1986 to 1995. In addition to potentially destroying important archaeological sites, fracking threatens the health and well-being of the local Navajo residents who now populate the region. As part of his work to hold both the government and oil and gas companies accountable, Tso leads tours of fracking sites to show people, firsthand, the impact of this rampant development. With the cows looking on,
“T
he points to where escaped methane, one of the most harmful greenhouse gases, is being vented into the atmosphere. With oil tankers noisily streaming behind us, it is clear that fracking has become an inescapable part of life in northwest New Mexico. But what does that mean for the future of the San Juan Basin, the people, and the land upon which they depend? Hydraulic fracturing or fracking, as it is commonly known, is a process of extracting oil or natural gas by injecting a highly pressurized cocktail of water and chemicals into otherwise impermeable rock layers. The mix of chemicals and other particulates serves to break apart or fracture these formations and access fossil fuels not otherwise accessible through conventional drilling methods. Fracking was developed in the mid-twentieth century but until somewhat recently remained cost prohibitive because the technique requires far more resources than conventional drilling. As energy prices rose at the beginning of this century, fracking became profitable on a commercial scale for the first time. It has since been responsible for opening enormous geologic formations in North Dakota, Pennsylvania, New Mexico, and other states for large scale extraction of oil and natural gas. The resource-intensive nature of fracking has raised significant health concerns. According to the non-profit Earthworks, a single fracked well that requires as much as four million gallons of water to develop would also use anywhere from eighty to three hundred thirty tons of chemicals. In most states, this mix of chemicals is considered proprietary, and companies do not have to disclose what they are injecting into the ground. “The great unknown is the proprietary mix of these chemicals,” says Mike Eisenfield, the Energy and Climate Program Manager for the San Juan Citizens Alliance.
The resource-intensive nature of fracking has raised significant health concerns. According to the non-profit Earthworks, a single fracked well that requires as much as four million gallons of water to develop would also use anywhere from eighty to three hundred thirty tons of chemicals. 42
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Particular communities in Greater Chaco are dependent upon pastoral industry and the health of their livestock. Horses and cattle owned by the indigenous community are seen grazing on open and unprotected fracking pads. Many of these fracking pads have recorded spills of either fracking fluid, wastewater, or crude oil and pose health risks to the livestock grazing on potentially contaminated grasses and wastewater.
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According to the San Juan Citizens Alliance, ninety-one percent of public lands in northwest New Mexico are already leased for drilling—much of the last nine percent is in Greater Chaco, and now the BLM wants to frack for oil and gas there, too.
Entrance to Counselor Chapter House.
Still, chemicals commonly used in fracking are known; examples include benzene, ethylene glycol, arsenic, formaldehyde, lead, and mercury, in addition to dozens of other toxic chemicals. Much of this slurry returns to the surface, where it is captured and either treated or injected into deep disposal wells. However, some remains underground where, left to its own devices, it is no longer tracked nor controlled. For New Mexico, Tso and other activists are especially concerned with how these chemicals could negatively impact the health of local residents. The Navajo Nation’s Counselor Chapter is in the process of compiling a Health Impact Assessment to study how flaring and venting methane is affecting air quality, the impact of increased levels of dust due to heavy truck traffic on dirt roads, and whether wastewater has infiltrated stock ponds, surface water, or groundwater. Tso does not fault anyone who is benefitting from the industry either through jobs or by leasing subsurface mineral rights on their private land. “I don’t begrudge them because they might need that money,” he says. “Where the issue is, is I say ‘Let’s talk about the safety, let’s talk about the health.’ There can’t be any disagreement on that.” While this study is still being compiled, Tso has plenty of anecdotal evidence that fracking in the area is already taking a toll on residents’ health. In additional to general fatigue, Tso and others have reported 44
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numerous other health issues including neurological, respiratory, and gastro-intestinal incidents. Additionally, the Counselor Chapter Health Representative reported thirteen cases of cancer between 2015 and 2016 among the 1,700 Counselor Chapter residents, a rate slightly above the national average. Other anecdotal evidence abounds. Near a relatively new well pad, in an area west of Counselor known as the Cornfield, the namesake feature has clearly seen better days. Last year, Tso says the corn grew over five feet, but as we drive by, the tallest stalk in the thinly covered field barely reaches three feet. Elsewhere, Tso reports that family gardens are seeing smaller yields, which for rural residents without easy access to grocery stores can be devastating. On top of this, Tso doesn’t believe the government and the oil and gas companies are taking these concerns seriously. In 2014, Tso attended a lease sale where he watched representatives from the BLM and oil companies callously carve up lease sales on a map, paying little mind to how long-term residents could be impacted. “Your map is just a white paper with lines,” Tso emphasizes. “These are people who live here.” Fracking could also impact the area’s agriculture industry, both animal husbandry and traditional farming. Although reports in New
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The Four Corners recently earned the unfortunate distinction of having some of the highest concentrations of methane pollution in the United States.
A Western Refining (WPX) crude truck can be seen driving down the community road. These dirt roads were designed to support local community traffic and school buses, but are now heavily used by the fracking industry. Ninety-thousand pound oil field trucks haul the volatile crude oil through pastoral lands, endangering livestock and community members. Fracking companies continue to level dirt roads to accommodate the weight of their trucks. The practice cuts roads deep into the landscape. Roads in Greater Chaco now resemble trenches and make travel dangerous, block scenic views of ancestral land, and hinder the ability to monitor livestock and fracking development.
Mexico have been relatively limited until now, those from other states present cause for concern. In 2009 in Louisiana, seventeen cows died shortly after drinking from a fracking wastewater spill. The following year in Pennsylvania, after being exposed to leaking wastewater, twenty-eight cows gave birth to calves that were either stillborn or horribly deformed. Elsewhere, cattle that have come into contact with these chemicals have demonstrated similar symptoms. Tso has observed cattle wading in water adjacent to well pads in New Mexico, and although testing of local stock ponds has largely proven them safe, the potential has continued to be a source of consternation for ranchers who graze their cattle on lands that have been leased for oil and gas.
to be used in this capacity, but Sandia Labs is currently developing new technology to treat wastewater so that it can be employed for agricultural purposes—something Tso is nervously monitoring. Additionally, oil companies from California to North Dakota to Texas to Pennsylvania, fracking has raised a host of concerns relating to the health of the people and the land, but in northwest New Mexico, drilling has also raised fears for Chaco Canyon, which served as the cultural and agricultural epicenter for Ancestral Puebloans more than one thousand years ago.
Another basis of concern has been the potential to use treated wastewater for crop irrigation. This has become an increasingly common practice in California, and studies have shown that toxic chemicals can persist even when wastewater has been treated. In one example, methylene chloride remained present in treated wastewater at levels five to eleven times that legally permitted in drinking water.
At its peak, Chaco boasted dozens of great houses with roads leading in all directions to satellite and more distant communities that established the region as a cultural and trading center. The area was abandoned in the thirteenth century for reasons that remain hotly debated among archaeologists and modern Puebloan scholars, but both the park and the greater area have long been recognized as essential to understanding the history of the Southwest. Established as a national monument in 1907, the park continues to attract as many as fifty thousand visitors each year.
Despite this, in 2014, one agricultural area in California relied on treated fracking wastewater for half of a 45,000-irrigated-acre region. Cause for even further anxiety is that organic certification does not specifically prohibit the use of fracking wastewater for irrigation, as federal organic standards precede the technologies developed to treat fracking wastewater. In New Mexico, fracking wastewater has yet
Despite the area’s stature as an important historical site, the possibility of fracking in Greater Chaco remains a very real prospect. In 2003, the BLM completed its Resource Management Plan (RMP), a large-scale planning document that directs the agency in balancing different land uses. However, the 2003 RMP did not include or account for fracking in the Greater Chaco area. In 2014, the agency
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This particular site caught fire on June 11, 2016, and was allowed to burn until July 14. The fracking fire and contaminants spread to areas north and south of the fracking pad, burning juniper trees within two hundred feet of residential buildings. This fire is not the only documented case in the Greater Chaco area where communities were disrupted and evacuated in the middle of the night. While community members remain concerned about their health, WPX reported that the incident was not an emergency and that no damage was caused to groundwater.
acknowledged this deficiency, and it is in the process of drafting an amendment to the RMP that will analyze the potential impacts of fracking in the area. In the meantime, the BLM continues to grant permits to drill. The BLM plans to hold its next lease sale, which will include parcels inside Chaco’s ten-mile buffer zone, in March 2018, and groups like San Juan Citizens Alliance are calling on the agency to suspend the sale until the amendment to the RMP is complete. “I don’t think the government really cares,” says Eisenfeld, who has been raising concerns about fracking for nearly thirty years. “We’re squandering our heritage.” 48
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At the moment, there are as many questions as there are answers surrounding the impacts of fracking in northwest New Mexico. The visual impacts are marked and obvious. How the region’s air, water, land, history, and people will ultimately fare remains to be seen, but all indications provide significant cause for concern. Back near Counselor, a woman on Tso’s tour asks him the bottomline question, “Can you live with it?” Tso takes a deep breath and thinks for a long moment before answering. “I don’t know,” he says solemnly. “I don’t think so.” www.sanjuancitizens.org
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Healthy Hives, Healthy Lives BEEKEEPING BRINGS WELLNESS TO HUMANS AND BEES By Willy Carleton
O
n a warm October day in a quiet neighborhood in northeast Albuquerque, we donned white beekeeping suits and veils, lit a smoker that gently billowed clouds to calm the bees, and lifted the roof of a wooden box filled with a buzzing beehive. “That’s a beautiful hive,” said Voyce Durling-Jones, founder of the Santa Fe-based Hoshindo Society of the Americas (HSA), as she lifted a dripping, honey-filled comb teeming with bees. Beside her, two military veterans, who had recently undertaken beekeeping in their yards under Durling-Jones’s tutelage, smiled beneath their veils. Their hives are part of a new project by the Bee Corps called Honey for Our Wounds. The Bee Corps, which is part of the nonprofit HSA, developed Honey for Our Wounds to provide women veterans an opportunity to learn the art of beekeeping as both a personal therapy and an exercise in helping protect a bee population in peril. Durling-Jones sees the project as an opportunity to tackle two large problems—the societal consequences of seemingly endless war and the deleterious effects of pesticide use on the bee populations we depend on—one hive at a time. For Durling-Jones, the journey toward this project has followed a long, winding path that stems from a trip to Japan in 1994. Suffering from health issues, she met a master of an esoteric and ancient form of Japanese bee medicine called hoshindo (meaning “the way of the bee”), which appeared to help many ailing people when other forms of medicine couldn’t. She explained that hoshindo uses the stinger of a bee to tap along the body and bring the immune system into balance. Hoshindo derives from a legacy of bee-venom medicine that goes back five thousand years, before advances in metallurgy made
“T
acupuncture possible. Certified practitioners of hoshindo must raise the bees they use to treat patients, and, unlike those practicing the American method of apitherapy, they primarily use “taps” of a stinger rather than barraging the body with full stings. This painless method, according to Durling-Jones, helps to balance the immune system with “a gentle wave, rather than a tsunami.” After two years of study and training in Japan, Durling-Jones returned to the United States to practice hoshindo and teach its methods to new practitioners. She is the only hoshindo sensei outside of Asia and has been practicing hoshindo in Santa Fe since 2003, helping people with a long list of ailments, including shingles, chronic Lyme infections, and rheumatoid arthritis. In 2007, she created the Hoshindo Healing Arts Institute, a center for Hoshindo Japanese Meridian Apitherapy, and began to train students. I asked Durling-Jones about the potential healing benefits of bees. Her soft blue eyes sparkled with passion as she explained the importance and beauty of the honeybee. “Did you know,” she asked with a smile, “that bees can fly thirty miles per hour, or that their wings’ vibration creates sound frequencies in the key of C?” As I inevitably shook my head, she continued on a more serious note. “Without bees,” she explained, “we humans cannot survive for long. They provide us not only with food through their honey and through their pollination of fruits, nuts, and vegetables; they also provide medicines for various health issues.” Their medicinal properties are vast, she made clear. The honey is a natural antibiotic, and so is the hive-protecting propolis, which is also antiviral, antimicrobial, and antifungal. Bee pollen is rich in protein, and royal jelly is a natural nutraceutical, high in nucleic acids. Last, but certainly not least, the
The Bee Corps aims to promote “bee sanctuary cities” that will urge city planners and officials to incorporate bee forage into city planting designs and eliminate the use of pesticides and herbicides, which can decimate bee populations, in public spaces such as schools and parks. The group’s first project is Honey for Our Wounds. 50
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Photo by Stephanie Cameron.
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Coating top bars to be placed in the hives with wax for use by the bees as a base to begin building comb. From left to right: Gretchen Rieck, Gloria Worthington, Patricia Gaston, and Janet Frye. Photo by Sabrina Durling-Jones.
bee’s venom itself is highly medicinal. According to Durling-Jones, it contains many beneficial chemicals and compounds, such as acetylcholine, melittin, and dopamine, and is one of nature’s most powerful anti-inflammatories. As she developed her practice of hoshindo in Santa Fe, DurlingJones grew increasingly concerned about widespread colony collapse disorder and the overall welfare of bees. Four years ago, after a family discussion, she and her children decided to launch the Bee Corps, with Sabrina Durling-Jones, Durling-Jones’ daughter, as director. The organization plans to initiate education projects with a variety of groups in New Mexico to spread the word about how to protect bee populations. The Bee Corps also aims to promote “bee sanctuary cities” that will urge city planners and officials to incorporate bee forage into city planting designs and eliminate the use of pesticides and herbicides, which can decimate bee populations, in public spaces such as schools and parks. The group’s first project is Honey for Our Wounds. “It’s Honey for Our Wounds,” Durling-Jones emphasized shortly after we arrived to the backyard of another veteran beekeeper, Lieutenant Colonel Pat Gaston (Army Retired), “because while 52
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the wounds of war directly affect those serving in the military and their families, war wounds all of us as a nation.” Gaston sat on the bed of a pickup truck, squinting in the autumn sun and nodding slowly. Behind her, bees swirled above the top-bar hive in her small backyard. A twenty-two year veteran who served as a fuel manager for operations throughout the Middle East, including Iraq and Afghanistan, Gaston has also served as the president of the Women Veterans of New Mexico, and she began sharing the unique challenges female veterans face, both while they serve and after. One in five women veterans has been assaulted at some point during her service, she explained. Women in the military, she added, “have to worry about the enemy, inside the wire and outside the wire.” Finding help can be difficult. Women often fear the consequences (such as lack of promotion, ostracization, charges of insubordination, or even physical retaliation from male military personnel) of reporting sexual harassment or assault while serving, and they face unique challenges of dealing with their traumas as veterans. Female veterans experience higher rates of homelessness than male veterans and have a suicide rate six times higher than male vets. While there are avenues of support for all veterans, few exist just for women. All
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Durling-Jones inspects the hive of Honey For Our Wounds participant, Janet Frye, and offers beekeeping guidance at Frye's home in Albuquerque. Photos by Willy Carleton.
vets can go to the VA, but, according to Gaston, many women opt out of the VA because it is so heavily male. “If you’re a woman and you have been raped or sexually assaulted,” Gaston explains, “you probably will want to be in an all-female [veterans] group.” For this reason, Women Veterans of New Mexico serves a crucial function for veterans in the state. Of its many services, linking veterans to Honey for Our Wounds is one of its newest. When Durling-Jones approached Gaston last year about the project, Gaston was cautiously enthusiastic. “You can give it a try,” Durling-Jones recalls Gaston telling her, “but no guarantees there will be interest.” To the surprise of both women, three veterans, along with Gaston, jumped on board, and the project has been off to a quick start. Durling-Jones offered the four women a crash course on beekeeping over the course of eight Sundays last winter, helped install the hives in their yards, and has driven down to Albuquerque to check on the hives each season. Early next year, the organization plans to recruit new women veterans to learn beekeeping under the training of Durling-Jones and the mentorship of this year’s beekeepers. As it turns out, working with bees has many appeals for women veterans. The idea of protecting bees, for their sake and ours, seems 54
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to resonate with the veterans’ commitment to serve their community. “It’s really good therapy,” says Navy veteran and Honey for Our Wounds participant Janet Frye. “You’re doing something for your community. It’s a small form of giving back.” Air Force veteran Gloria Worthington nodded her head, adding, “You are part of the bee community and that feels good. It can be very peaceful. You can meditate to that buzzing.” Beyond the therapeutic benefits of beekeeping lies a deeper appeal. “The beehive is really one being,” Durling-Jones explained. She described the hive as a superorganism where each bee functions to serve a larger colony that itself behaves like an individual organism. The veterans nodded. As these veterans explained, most bees in the hive—the workers and the queen—are female; and just as these female bees serve their hive, women veterans serve their country and, often once they return, their communities. These vets see bees as apt metaphors for their lives. “They are women helping the world, and we are women helping the world,” says Worthington with a little laugh. “We’re all females helping females.” For more information on the Bee Corps, and to learn about their 2018 concert series, please visit www.thebeecorps.org.
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Foraged Earth FINDING HEALING IN NEW MEXICO’S WILD HARVESTS By Emily Hill · Photos by Stephanie Cameron
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tanding in an abandoned lot in Albuquerque’s Sawmill District, Cebastien Rose leans over a scraggly plant growing out of a crack in the pavement. “Purslane,” she announces, picking off a stem. Rose and her partner Robin Moore are the owners and herbalists behind Dryland Wilds, a perfumery out of Vallecitos that specializes in foraged plants. They lead regular foraging walks like this one. “Purslane is delicious in a salad. It tastes similar to watercress or spinach.” In one city block, Rose has shown us desert willow, great for treating dry skin and eczema; honey locust pods, which make delicious syrup; and rabbitbrush, used for centuries by Rio Grande puebloans to soothe the stomach. She passes a waxy purslane leaf to us and points left, “And there! Oh, you’re going to love this next one.” Rose and Moore are a part of a growing constituency of DIYers who are finding all the raw materials they need in nature. These wildcrafters repurpose the plants we usually discard to create teas, tinctures, essential oils, and even Michelin-star menus. Dryland Wilds creates handmade perfumes, beauty oils, and botanical soaps using native species like copper mallow and piñon, as well as invasives like Russian olive, tamarisk, and snakeweed. “It’s important for us to find productive ways to use invasives,” says Rose. Partnering with local farmers and landowners, Dryland Wilds helps the property owner control invasive populations, and Dryland Wilds goes home with a fresh harvest of Russian olive or whitetop blossoms. Education is key. Gaining an intimate understanding of a place through foraging takes more than just plucking neighborhood dandelions for your wildcrafted tea, says Dr. Tomas Enos, ethnobotanist and president of Santa Fe’s Milagro Herbs. “It starts with knowing that plant’s relationship to the entire ecosystem.” To be a wildcrafter
or forager is to ascribe to a certain moral obligation, beginning with taking no more than you need. “It’s important to consider how to harvest a plant to enhance its ability to regrow,” says Enos. As an herbalist who works only with small-batch, hand-picked plants harvested at the height of their nutritional and medicinal capacity, Enos is committed to a sustainable business model. “You can’t damage Mother Earth and then try to use those plants for healing,” he says. “Your work needs to both heal the land and heal the people.” New Mexico is especially fertile ground for this work. “Because of its Native American and Hispanic history and traditions, this is a special state with magical powers,” says Dr. Eliseo Torres, author and professor of UNM’s curanderismo traditional medicine courses. “The popularity of homeopathy and herbal medicine is a multi-million dollar business. I am pleased that these traditions are being kept alive. Sharing the knowledge is good so that it is not lost.” Despite being arguably the oldest human skill in the book, Torres points to a fresh interest in foraging and food-as-medicine. In addition to their increasing prominence on the plate (many Michelinstarred restaurants now tout foraged foods for field-to-table menus), foraged products now feature prominently in perfumes, wedding bouquets, and beer (Albuquerque’s Bow and Arrow brewery recently released a Grisette sour, made with locally foraged Navajo tea). Rising interest in wild herbs and foraging could threaten wild plant populations, but so far that’s not the case. With so many foragers emphasizing ecosystems and growth cycles, foraging has environmentalism folded in. Rose says, “You have to harvest with respect and restraint. Choose prolific patches, prune weak branches, harvest only twenty-five percent or less.” She adds, “Sometimes, you’ve got to be okay with taking nothing home.”
Cebastien Rose of Dryland Wilds says, “You have to harvest with respect and restraint. Choose prolific patches, prune weak branches, harvest only twentyfive percent or less.” She adds, “Sometimes, you’ve got to be okay with taking nothing home.” 56
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Left: Robin Moore and Cebastien Rose. Top right: Distiller used for creating Dryland Wilds products. Bottom right: Foraged rose hips.
Foragers take care of their land, says Norma Navarro, because sustaining the plants means sustaining their craft. Navarro is an herbalist, doula, and weaver. “What’s so sweet about this return to foraging is that it’s reintroducing people to their own wild spaces,” she says. “When plants take us out into the landscape, they act as a medium to get to know a place in time.” Some of her first memories are of her grandmother picking and preparing nopales over a fire. Today, she works with midwife Jessica Gutfreund atBreath of My Heart B irthplace in Española to prepare wild and local herbs for new mothers in postpartum recovery. “It’s as psychological as it is clinical. Plants are medicine that, through your senses, bring you back in touch with 58
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the world you’re in,” she says. “What naturally comes out of that is being more accountableandtaking on stewardshipof the wild spaces around us.” And that’s what all of these forager-entrepreneurs have in common: They love the land first, the craft second. To hear them speak about foraging is to remember why you first fell in love with New Mexico. Rose talks about petrichor, the earthy scent after the rain: “All the little oils from the plants and minerals trapped in the soil, they’re released all at once. It’s the desert exhaling.” Enos talks of tasting the soil underneath the plants: “A high-mountain environment will have
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more humus, more of a sweet flavor. In the low, open desert, the soil tastes salty, more metallic.” Navarro loves the riparian areas lush with yerba mansa: “Under the cottonwoods you’ll find fields of it. As you walk through them, they’re so fragrant, you can just feel the aromatic oils being released.” This romance with the land invites a new business model altogether, one based on landscape and community rather than volume. “Traditionally when a person goes to an herbalist or healer, they forge a personal relationship, they both become a part of the healing cycle,” says Enos. “There’s an intimate relationship of human to plant world. Mass production loses that intimacy.” For their part, Rose and Moore admit that their business model is impossibly hard to scale. Dryland Wilds uses old-school perfumery techniques to extract their fragrances. For example, one batch of effleurage involves pressing hundreds of tiny buds into coconut oil, then painstakingly removing each flower with tweezers. “The process is incredible for capturing the exact scent of the desert,” Rose says. “It’s really fun, but no possible way to scale up,” she laughs. But mass production was never the goal, Rose and Enos agree. “This work is not just about extraction, it’s based on a much larger picture of our world, our place on earth,” says Enos. “The business side has to follow that philosophy.” While Milagro Herbs uses their foraging skills to heal, Rose and Moore are careful to point out that they sell botanical perfumes and beauty products, not medicine. “We leave the herbs as medicine to the amazing herbalists and their tradition; we focus on the smells,” Rose says. But that doesn’t mean their wildcrafting work doesn’t also heal. Foraging, as a practice, might be medicine in itself. “We’re taught to be afraid of wilderness, mountain lions, coyotes, bears, but when you go out there amongst the plants you’re harvesting and you sleep among them, you lose the fear of the wild,” says Rose. “You find the health that’s inherent.” www.drylandwilds.com, www.milagroherbs.com Above left: Oshá root. Above, right: Rose displays her wares.
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What is an Herbalist's Favorite Herb ? Dr. Tomas Enos Yerba mansa
“It grows in wetter areas along streams and rivers, the flowers are very beautiful, and it has powerful anti-inflammatory healing qualities. It’s very tonic, with a strong flavor. I use the leaves in topical remedies for softening and moistening, or chop and boil the roots to soothe and calm inflammation from sore throat or sore stomach.” Norma Navarro Escoba de la vibora “It soothes the damaged nerves, and it is super helpful in sitz baths for the perineum for postpartum mothers. After a stressful day I also like to prepare a pot of tea; I drink a cup and put the rest into a warm bath to relax.” Cebastien Rose Chaparral “It’s got a sharp, musky smell. To me it smells like when the land is hungry for rain, then the sky goes dark, the sky flashes with lightning, and the whole desert just cracks open with this scent.” Dr. Eliseo Torres Oshá “Also called ‘bear medicine,’ ‘Indian parsley,’ or chuchupate in Spanish. This is probably one of the most loved plants in New Mexico, especially in the north. It has antibiotic, antimicrobial effects and strengthens the immune system. Some chew the root to prevent colds and the flu. Others use it for the respiratory system, to clear the lungs and for allergies.”
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Good-For-You Brew KOMBUCHA COMPANIES ADD CULTURE TO NEW MEXICO By Carrie Murphy · Photos by Stacey M. Adams
Kombucha on tap.
Gone are the days when kombucha was a drink you had to make yourself, brewed in covered jars containing gooey “mushroom” cultures. In recent years, the fermented tea has emerged as a trendy, mainstream wellness product. Here in New Mexico, several local producers are taking the lead on bringing kombucha to the masses—not only as a health drink, but as a small-batch beverage meant to spur a local food movement. Although it’s gained plenty of enthusiastic fans in the last few years (just take a look in the coolers at Sprouts or Whole Foods to see a host of national brands), it’s hardly a new beverage. Kombucha was first consumed in ancient China and was brewed in Russia and Eastern Europe for centuries. It is tea, sweetened with sugar, that is cultured with a “scoby” (short for “symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast”), a living 62
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organism chock full of probiotics like lactobacillus and other beneficial yeasts, minerals, and acids. Brewed for about ten days, these good-foryour-gut bacteria and yeasts feed on the sugar to create an effervescent, tangy, acidic, and slightly sweet final product that is believed to promote healthy intestinal flora and a strong immune system. Fans of the fizzy beverage say it boosts energy, prevents sickness, and can even help regulate blood sugar. Research, too, supports the benefits of drinking kombucha: A 2014 study in the Journal of Medicinal Food reported that it can help with several health functions, including detoxification, antioxidation, energy, and immunity. For Katlyn Jennings, founder of Santa Fe’s The Kombucha Project, kombucha has truly been a balm. “Kombucha is an antioxidant-rich,
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FERMENTI'S PARADOX
New Mexico Ferments' founder Ryan Brown and his wife and son sipping the fruits of their labor.
probiotic food. It can really impact your sense of wellness and wellbeing,” Jennings says, adding, “It’s changed my life.” The benefits she experienced from the drink after a serious accident in 2014 encouraged her to found the company eighteen months ago. A former employee of the New Mexico Farmers’ Market Association, Jennings knew that New Mexico’s market was ripe for smallbatch, local kombucha. She hit the ground running in 2016, educating consumers and retailers about kombucha as a healthy craft beverage. Her efforts proved fruitful—today, The Kombucha Project’s kombucha and jun (a kombucha-like beverage brewed from green tea and honey) are on tap at Violet Crown and Iconik in Santa Fe, and are also sold at La Montañita Co-op, Los Poblanos, and other local spots. Jennings’ efforts have paved the way for other local purveyors, too. Ryan Brown founded New Mexico Ferments in early 2017, selling kimchi, kombucha, and other fermented foods at local markets in Albuquerque. Within his first month of business, New Mexico Ferments’ kombucha was on tap at Santa Fe Brewing Company. It’s now also sold at Deep Space Coffee and Duel Brewing in Albuquerque, as well as at Taos Mesa Brewing. 64
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For Brown, a Corrales native, brewing and selling kombucha is a way to bring the benefits of fermented foods to the community. So far, New Mexico Ferments has allowed him to spend more time with his family, as well—his infant son Arlo is with him every week at the Rail Yards Market in Albuquerque. Brown sings the praises of ferments’ effects on the gut, a benefit he initially discovered after a serious bout with digestive upset while traveling in Central America. “It helps regulate your digestive system,” he says. “So much stems from the gut, so if you can get that healthy, everything follows suit.” His customers rave about his products, too—Brown says Rail Yards Market customers report that his kombucha, which comes in flavors from prickly pear to turmeric, has helped them with everything from weight loss to relief from symptoms of rheumatoid arthritis. Ayla Bystrom-Williams is another local entrepreneur whose vision of kombucha is set to to change the palates and the guts of New Mexicans. HoneyMoon Brewery, headquartered in Santa Fe, is on the cutting edge of the next wave of craft beverages in the US. Bystrom-Williams and her partner James Hill founded HoneyMoon in 2014, fueled by the vision of a smooth, great-tasting bottle of kombucha that just so happens to be alcoholic. Bystrom-Williams says the
Left to right, clockwise: Hibiscus lavender and prickly pear kombucha; ingredients for brewing; barrel aging kombucha adds a unique flavor.
couple’s carefully-developed product retains many of the beneficial properties of kombucha, preserved right alongside the 3.5 percent alcohol content: “It’s unlike any type of drinking experience you've ever had. You feel a relaxed sensation in your digestive system prior to feeling a buzz.” Although HoneyMoon’s “kombucha beer” isn’t yet available to the public, the fledgling company has already had considerable support, both locally and nationally. After applying for the New Mexico small business assistance program, Bystrom-Williams and Hill were partnered with Los Alamos National Labs. Scientists at the labs assisted them with research, chemistry, and microbiology, ultimately helping to create a truly-one-of-a-kind drink. In 2016, HoneyMoon won first place in Miller Lite’s national Tap the Future contest—complete with a $200,000 grand prize. HoneyMoon is betting their part-healthy, part-boozy kombucha creation will resonate with the craft beer market, a group of adventurous consumers who care just as much about wellness as they do about a great-tasting brew. A commitment to sustainable and environmentally-friendly business practices is also key for the company—and New Mexico is an integral part of their vision. “We want to create
a path for people in an area that is literally a desert in terms of opportunities,” says Bystrom-Williams. “That's a huge driving force, to support the New Mexico ecosystem. For us, it’s go big or go home.” Jennings and Brown, too, are committed to keeping their businesses local and community-oriented. Brown plans to open a food truck selling fermented foods, introducing central New Mexico to even more gut-friendly strains of good bacteria. Jennings’ jun blends already use honey and lavender from Albuquerque’s North Valley, and in the future, she’ll incorporate local herbs. The future looks bright for New Mexico kombucha, especially as people come around to the delicious taste and varied health effects. “People have one idea of kombucha,” says Jennings, “as a health drink, as this gross-tasting thing. I want people to get excited about how kombucha makes their bodies feel, but I also want them to enjoy it. Kombucha has so much more nuance.” Nuance, flavor, and plenty of health benefits? We’ll drink to that. www.facebook.com/TheKombuchaProject www.honeymoonbrewery.com www.newmexicoferments.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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The Fermented Life A MORNING WITH SANDOR ELLIX KATZ
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By Katherine Mast · Photos by Gabriella Marks
everal dozen early risers pack the seats arranged around folding tables under a large event tent. It’s the second annual New Mexico Fermentation Festival at the GutiérrezHubbell House in Albuquerque’s South Valley. Each table holds an array of produce: corn on the cob, garlic, peppers, leeks, tomatoes, and sweet potatoes. The participants know they’ll be husking and chopping and mixing and, eventually, squeezing, these items together in the morning’s hands-on fermentation workshop. And they know they’ll have to wait a few days—maybe weeks—to taste the fruit of their labor. It may seem like a strange array of veggies to ferment, says fermentation guru Sandor Ellix Katz, who is standing at the front of the tent, looking relaxed in a radish-print button-up shirt. There’s no sign of the heads of cabbage you might chop for sauerkraut or the cucumbers you’d expect to brine into pickles. It just goes to show, he says, that you can ferment nearly anything.
Katz is one of the most well-known names among modern fermentation enthusiasts. He’s written two books on the subject. The first, Wild Fermentation (Chelsea Green Publishing, 2003) is full of recipes from sauerkrauts and pickles to ginger beer and kombucha. Nearly ten years later, he released The Art of Fermentation (Chelsea Green Publishing, 2012), a compendium of ideas from around the world about the myriad ways to ferment various foods. The 498-page book quickly became a New York Times bestseller and won an award from the James Beard Foundation. In 1993, Katz packed up his life in Manhattan for a quiet, off-grid move to a commune in Tennessee. There he started keeping a garden. When the first harvest rolled around, he was caught off guard by the amount of produce ripening at the same time. “I was such a naive city kid that I never thought about the idea that, in a garden, all the cabbage would be ready at around the same time,” he says. And so,
“I
he decided to learn how to make sauerkraut. “I looked in The Joy of Cooking and there it was: How to make sauerkraut.” He was hooked. He started fermenting other things: yogurt, sourdough breads, country wines. “I got kind of totally obsessed,” he says. He started branching out, exploring ferments from other cultures, like miso and tempeh. In the past several decades, fermentation has experienced somewhat of a renaissance in the US. New businesses offering fermented foods, from cured meats and pickles to kombucha and home-fermentation supplies, are popping up each year. Entrepreneurs like Pat Block, who operates Barrio Brinery in Santa Fe, says it took years of work and networking with researchers and regulators in other states before New Mexico was ready to license his fermented pickle business. Block’s work helped open the door for other fermented foods businesses to launch. Now, as Katz shares stories and how-tos with the participants in the tent, rows of local vendors are setting up their own booths. Katz keeps a regular schedule speaking at such events from Pittsburgh to Portland and from Bogotá to São Paulo. And he travels internationally to learn about the world’s various fermenting traditions. The basics, he tells the participants gathered in the tent, come down to this: “The mechanics of fermenting vegetables is ridiculously simple. You chop vegetables and salt them to taste, squeeze them to break down the cell walls and release juices, then stuff them into vessels, get them submerged under their juices, and let them ferment.” Scientifically speaking, fermentation is a specific process that produces energy without oxygen, or anaerobically. But when we talk about food, fermentation has a broader definition. Katz defines it as “the transformative action of microorganisms.” Most of the food we call fermented—things like sauerkraut, kimchi, and wine—meet that scientific definition. Submerged in a brine or capped, bacteria and yeast break the ingredients down into delicious complexity. But some
It may seem like a strange array of veggies to ferment, says fermentation guru Sandor Ellix Katz, who is standing at the front of the tent, looking relaxed in a radish-print button-up shirt. There’s no sign of the heads of cabbage you might chop for sauerkraut or the cucumbers you’d expect to brine into pickles. It just goes to show, he says, that you can ferment nearly anything. 66
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Fermentation guru Sandor Ellix Katz sporting his radish shirt. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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Kids get in on the action during CSA pickup at NDI and pack their own boxes.
Katz helps festivalgoers work through their fermentation questions while conducting a live demonstration.
do require oxygen—vinegar, kombucha, many cheeses, and tempeh are a few. “I think of these as the oxymoronic ferments,” says Katz.
like bacteria and yeast, the workhorses that can turn a crock full of cabbage into pungent sauerkraut or cause a loaf of bread to rise.
Many of the people at this June Saturday’s demonstration have brought their fermentation questions for the man who has literally written the book(s) on the topic: When do I know my ferment is done? (When it tastes good to you!) What if mold starts growing on the surface of my sauerkraut? (Skim it off!) Can I brew kombucha next to my sauerkraut, or will they contaminate each other? (They’ll be fine! And besides, there’s bacteria and yeast spores floating in the air all the time!)
And for the past hundred and fifty years, we’ve known enough about bacteria to know they can make us sick and that sometimes they can kill us. We’ve been in a hundred-year war on bacteria where we’ve been repeatedly fed information about how to avoid bacteria and been sold products to kill them. But we’re just beginning to understand beneficial microbes, and, specifically, the dynamics within microbial communities. “Until the new millennium, there were no tools for studying bacterial communities. A lot of individual bacteria are studied,” says Katz. “But in the world, bacteria don’t exist in isolation. They exist in these elaborate communities.”
The growing interest in fermentation is due in part to a growing interest in food more generally, says Katz. As people start asking questions about the environmental and economic impacts of our modern food system, and as more people are favoring locally grown produce, “Fermentation is just part of the answer,” he says. But fermentation is hardly a novel trend. In fact, it’s one of humanity’s oldest means of preserving food, and is practiced in cultures around the world. “The products of fermentation have enjoyed enduring popularity,” says Katz. "Bread, beer, wine, cheese, coffee, chocolate did not suddenly become popular in the last decade." While fermented foods have been part of human diets for thousands of years, it was only a few centuries ago that scientists discovered microorganisms 68
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As it turns out, these elaborate bacterial communities are important for our digestion, immune function, and even our mental health. Some scientists describe our gut bacteria—part of our microbiome— as a forgotten organ because of the critical role they play in our health. There is so much we still don’t know, scientifically, about fermented foods. We really don’t know what happens to the microbes in our food once we eat them—the dynamics between them and the microbes already living in our bodies, or how our bodies regulate these communities.
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Fermentation Festival attendees working with their ferments to create a relish with corn, onions, sweet potatoes, and green chiles.
But here are a few things we do know: Fermentation allows microbes to pre-digest some foods we’d have trouble eating otherwise and can make certain minerals easier for our bodies to absorb. Fermentation can remove certain plant toxins, rendering poisonous raw foods, such as bitter cassava, harmless. Fermentation can make raw food safer, creating acidic environments where anaerobic bacteria thrive and pathogens like Salmonella, Listeria, and E. coli will die. (Of course, it’s important to follow safe food-handling guidelines; C. botulinum, which is a serious concern for home-canners and is a potentially deadly botulinum toxin, has shown up in fermented foods, particularly protein-rich ferments of meat, fish, and tofu.) And fermentation can enhance the nutritional value of food, creating micronutrients not found in the raw ingredients.
“There’s a lot of hype. As someone who’s been living with a chronic disease for decades, I feel like it’s exploitative when people start claiming that a particular food will cure a particular disease,” he says. Fermented foods won’t alone cure AIDS or HIV. They aren’t the cure for cancer. And they won’t reverse aging. “You can eat as much kraut as you want, drink as much kombucha, and it’s not going to make you ten years younger.” But it might make you feel better, and it will probably improve your health, he says.
In Katz’s own experience, and in the anecdotes he receives by the week, fermented foods can profoundly impact our health. But he’s careful not to paint fermented foods as a panacea. In 1991, Katz tested positive for HIV—something he writes and speaks about often—and he says fermented foods have played an important role in maintaining his health. But maintaining health and curing HIV or any other disease are two different things, he says.
Fermentation seems magical, like making a potion, says one participant who has traveled from Florida to attend the event with her sister. It’s transforming the ordinary into something entirely new. “It’s like being your own kitchen alchemist!” she says.
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Back in the tent, as Katz wraps up the first part of his talk, he instructs the participants on how to prepare the relish they’ll be taking home. As he’s done all morning, he intersperses his directions with stories from people he’s met throughout the years, from Korea to North Carolina, and the various ferments they’ve made.
SAVE THE DATE: The Third Annual Fermentation Festival will be held on June 23, 2018 at Guttiérez-Hubbell House in Albuquerque. www.nmfermentationfest.com
Nosh Drink
Shop Play
ABQNoshFest.com 12-4pm Sunday, January 14 Embassy Suites Hotel
Gourmet Tasting Room Must be 21 to enter
Photo courtesy of Einstein Bros Bagels
Brought to you by the Jewish Community Center of Greater Albuquerque jccabq.org
sergio salvador 505.404.0854
photography
salvadorphoto.com
I AM NEW MEXICO CHILE
Eat with pride
®
R
For recipes: www.buenofoods.com
EDIBLE NOTABLES
VANESSIE SANTA FE GETS A MENU FACELIFT Vanessie, a Santa Fe institution of thirtyfive years, is getting a menu facelift. Enrique Guerrero of Bang Bite fame is collaborating with the owners to reimagine the muchloved piano bar and restaurant. “The idea for the rebirth of Vanessie's cuisine is scoula vecchia (old school) Northern Coastal Italian, with handcrafted pastas and sauces made on the spot,” says Guerrero. Guerrero has run many restaurants in Santa Fe, including La Casa Sena and La Mancha in the Galisteo Inn, and he most recently reopened El Nido, reinvented as an Italian steakhouse. He’s also owner and proprietor of one of Santa Fe’s well-known food trucks, Bang Bite.
For the last thirty years, Vanessie has served up continental cuisine and some of the best live music in Santa Fe. With the new collaboration between Guerrero and Vanessie’s owners, it now hopes to be the place where the younger and older crowd can get together for a glass of wine or a craft cocktail and a great dinner. The new menu will feature a few old favorites alongside plenty of new and creative Italian offerings, greatly influenced by local ingredients and flavors that change with the seasons (or the day, depending on what’s fresh and available to the chef ). Stars of the menu include the pastas made by hand every day, Cantinela Olivos (crispy
fried anchovy stuffed olives), Calamari Arrabbiata (risotto flour-crusted squid with tomato sauce made with chile), Ossobuco di Pollo (fried chicken wings with white wine and butter sauce), Pasta Fatta en Casa (agnolotti dal plin with wild boar and pork guanciale), and Tagliata di Manzo (braised oxtail with creamy polenta). Every Italian food lover will find something to satisfy their palate. The restaurant at Vanessie will be renamed Fenix at Vanessie. They will be celebrating their thirty-five year anniversary this January. Stay tuned for all the festivities. www.vanessiesantafe.com
Left: Branzino Aqua Pazza (Mediterranean sea bass in seafood stew). Right: Pappardelle e Funghi (handcrafted pappardelle pasta with wild mushroom ragu and aged Montasio cheese). Photos by Stephanie Cameron.
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Art, Culture, History and Beyond
Join The Circles Explorers, the Museum of New Mexico Foundation’s newest membership level, tailor-made for those with a youthful, adventurous spirit. Pioneering a new way to engage in the art, culture and history of our four state museums in Santa Fe and seven historic sites statewide.
Become a Circles Explorer today! For more information call Cara O’Brien, Director of The Circles at 505.982.6366, ext. 118, email cara@museumfoundation.org or visit museumfoundation.org/explorers WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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EDIBLE NOTABLES NEW FOODIE FESTIVAL LAUNCHES IN JANUARY For lovers of all things food and fun, a new festival sure to delight the senses takes place January 14, 2018. ABQ NoshFest celebrates Jewish heritage and will feature the best in Jewish cuisine while raising funds for the Jewish Community Center of Greater Albuquerque (JCC). The event will be held from 12 to 4 pm at the Embassy Suites in Albuquerque, with early VIP noshing at 11am. Advance tickets start at $5. “We wanted to create an event that would give foodies a chance to experience some of their favorite noshes,” explained Suzy Caplan, a JCC community partner and producer of the fest. “Anyone who has never tried these popular Jewish dishes are in for even more of a treat!" Dave Simon, executive director of the JCC, is especially appreciative of the support shown by the Albuquerque metro restaurant community. "We are pleased that local favorite food establishments have stepped up to the plate to prepare and serve popular Jewish foods not easily found in our city. To help make ABQ NoshFest a unique experience, most of our participating chefs are creating dishes that is not currently offered on their menus." All funds will benefit programs at the JCC that assist homeless families and children; provide summer camp, swim lessons, and early childhood education scholarships; support people with disabilities; help wounded warriors; and partner with numerous other nonprofit organizations that serve people in need. www.abqnoshfest.com
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IN MY KITCHEN From Deborah Madison, the foremost authority on vegetarian cooking and one of the most trusted voices in food, comes In My Kitchen (Ten Speed Press, 2017), a carefully curated and updated collection of one hundred of her favorite and most inspired recipes. In the book, Madison pares some of her classic recipes down to the key ingredients needed to achieve delicious, nuanced flavor with simplified preparations. In My Kitchen is a vegetable-forward cookbook featuring recipes like Roasted Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Sunflower Sprouts; Fennel Shaved with Tarragon and Walnuts; and Olive Oil, Almond, and Blood Orange Cake. With dozens of tips for building onto, scaling back, and creating menus around, Madison’s recipes have a modular quality that makes them particularly easy to use. Perfect for both weeknight dinners and special occasions, this book will delight longtime fans and newcomers to Madison—and anyone who loves fresh, flavorful cooking. Filled with Madison’s writerly, evocative prose, this book is not just the go-to kitchen reference for vegetable-focused cooking, but also a book to curl up with and enjoy. Lavishly photographed, with an approachable, intimate package, this is a must-have collection of modern vegetarian recipes.
TORTILLAS, TISWIN, AND T-BONES: A FOOD HISTORY OF THE SOUTHWEST In this entertaining history, Gregory McNamee explores the many ethnic and cultural traditions that have contributed to the food of the Southwest. Tortillas, Tiswin, and TBones: A Food History of the Southwest (UNM Press, 2017) traces the arrival of humans in the Americas, the work of the earliest farmers of Mesoamerica, and the ancient trade networks joining peoples of the coast, plains, and mountains. From the ancient chile pepper and agave to the comparatively recent Frito pie and green chile tempura roll, this complex culinary journey involves many players over space and time. Born of scarcity, migration, and climate change, these foods are now fully at home in the Southwest of today—and with the “southwesternization” of the American palate, they are found across the country. Gregory McNamee is the author or editor of more than forty books, among them Gila: The Life and Death of an American River (updated and expanded edition, UNM Press, 2012). He lives in Tucson, Arizona. Tracey Ryder, cofounder of Edible Communities, says Tortillas, Tiswin, and T-Bones “feels like sitting down to a dinner with Diana Kennedy and Jim Harrison, tequila in hand and great conversation going long into the night. It’s alive, a love story, a timeless journey. I absolutely loved reading it and will treasure Gregory McNamee’s words for a long time to come.”
EDIBLE NOTABLES DIGGING IN: EATING AND DRINKING IN THE ABQ When it comes to the Land of Enchantment’s defining cuisine and cocktails, Albuquerque has earned its place at the proverbial table. The city’s growing mixology scene, passionate farming community, and nationally recognized chefs offer a youthful enthusiasm that is a refreshing change of pace from the established culinary behemoth, Santa Fe. Head to ediblenm.com/ diggingin to watch our latest episode of Digging In, hosted by Natalie Bovis, in which we ask some top talent about the rising temperature in Duke City kitchens.
NEW MEXICO COCKTAILS & CULTURE FESTIVAL The annual New Mexico Cocktails & Culture Festival celebrates local cuisine, craft
cocktails, and big-name and local spirits with educational seminars and parties. Cocktails & Culture Week leads up to the festival weekend and features signature cocktails at bars and restaurants throughout Santa Fe and Albuquerque. Guests vote for their favorite cocktails and bartenders on the festival website. In 2017, Scalo took home ABQ Cocktail of the Year, and ABQ Bartender of the Year went to Mikey D’Amato. Meanwhile, the festival’s marquee event is the Chef & Shaker Challenge highlighting food and cocktail pairings. The two chefs winning Judges’ Pick and People’s Choice were David Gaspar de Alba of Artichoke Café and Marc Quiñones of Más, respectively. Hear what these folks have to say in our latest video on the edible website, ediblenm.com, and whet your appetite for the next Cocktails & Culture Festival, June 1–3, 2018, at NMCocktail Culture.com.
HELP MAKE 2018 A YEAR OF MINDFULNESS TOWARDS YOUR WELL BEING WITH AN INTUITIVE READING OR HEALING SESSION AT OUR WELLNESS CENTER. SEE OUR WEBSITE FOR MORE INFORMATION.
Chef & Shaker Challenge winners: David Gaspar de Alba and Marc Quiñones. Photo by Claire Berrett. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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edible Marketplace
LOCAL FINDS
Santa Fe Olive Oil & Balsamic Co. www.santafeoliveoil.com
SMALL BATCHED
+
LOCALLY SOURCED
+
KINDLY CRAFTED 15 Calle Alfredo, Algodones 505.301.9992 algodonesdistillery.com
TRIFECTA
Barrio Brinery S
AN
130 E Marcy St, Santa Fe, 505-795-7878 cheesmongersofsantafe.com
413 Montano NE, Albuquerque 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeecompany.com We roast coffee, and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods, sweet, and savory are made in house.
Source Guide
Your support for the advertisers listed here allows us to offer this magazine free of charge to readers. Thank you!
CATERERS
Nath’s Inspired Khmer Cuisine
Personal chef service for inspired hosts! Southeast Asian fusion by award-winning Chef Nath. Organic and health-conscious. Can accommodate dietary preferences. hellochefnathsf@gmail.com, chefnath.com
FOOD ARTISANS / RETAILERS Barrio Brinery
1413-B West Alameda, Santa Fe, 505-699-9812, barriobrinery.com
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Cheesemongers of Santa Fe
130 E Marcy St, Santa Fe, 505-798-7878, cheesemongersofsantafe.com
Heidi's Raspberry Farm
600 Andrews, Corrales, 505-898-1784, heidisraspberryfarm.com
La Montañita Coop
3500 Central SE, Albuquerque, 505-2654631; 913 West Alameda, Santa Fe, 505-9842852; 2400 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-242-8800; 3601 Old Airport NW, Albuquerque, 505-503-2550, lamontanita.coop
co
COFFEE COMPANY
i TA ex FE z New M
Santa Fe's source for fine fermented foods. Our lacto-fermented pickles, sauerkraut, and escabeche are hand-crafted in small batches. 1413-B West Alameda, Santa Fe www.barriobrinery.com ∙ 505-699-9812
Old Monticello Organic Balsamic organicbalsamic.com
Santa Fe Olive Oil & Balsamic Company
116 Don Gaspar, Santa Fe, 505-992-1601; 109 Carlisle SE Albuquerque, 505-266-6043; 103 East Plaza Taos, 575-758-4136; santafeoliveoil.com
Savory Spice Shop
225 Galisteo, Santa Fe, 505-819-5659, savoryspiceshop.com/santafe
Skarsgard Farms
Delivering fresh, local, and organically grown produce and natural groceries to doorsteps across New Mexico. 505-681-4060, skarsgardfarms.com
Talin Market
88 Louisiana SE, Albuquerque, 505-2680206; 505 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-780-5073; talinmarket.com
LODGING Buffalo Thunder, Hilton Santa Fe
20 Buffalo Thunder Trail, Santa Fe, 505-455-5555, buffalothunderresort.com
Casa Gallina
613 Callejon, Taos, 575-758-2306, casagallina.net
El Morro RV Park and Cabin Rental HC 61 Box 44 Ramah, NM 87321, 505-783-4612, elmorro-nm.com
Inn on the Alameda
303 E Alameda St, Santa Fe, 888-984-2121, innonthealameda.com
Inn on the Paseo
Grow Y'Own
505-466-0393, raisedbed.biz
Osuna Nursery
A family-owned and operated nursery, gardening center, and landscaping company. 501 Osuna NE, Albuquerque, 505345-6644, osunanursery.com
ORGANIZATIONS, EVENTS, & EDUCATION New Mexico Department of Cultural Affairs
505-827-6364, newmexicoculture.org
New Mexico Museum Foundation
116 Lincoln, Santa Fe, 505-982-6366 ext.100, museumfoundation.org
630 Paseo De Peralta, Santa Fe, 505-984-8200, innonthepaseo.com
New Mexico Wine
Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm
ABQ NOSH Fest
4803 Rio Grande NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com
Sarabande B & B
5637 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-348-5593, sarabandebnb.com
The Historic Taos Inn
125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-758-2233, taosinn.com
winecountrynm.com
January 14, 2018, abqnoshfest.com
Rail Yards Market
Garcia Auto Group
8449 Lomas NE, Albuquerque, Garciacars.com
Los Alamos National Bank
1200 Trinity, Los Alamos; 77 Rover, White Rock; 301 Griffin, Santa Fe; 2009 Galisteo, Santa Fe; 3674 Cerrillos, Santa Fe; 6700 Jefferson NE, Albuquerque, 505-662-5171, lanb.com
Solarius Spa
12500 Montgomery NE, Suite 107, Albuquerque, 505-299-3116, solariusspa.com
RETAILERS Next Best Thing to Being There 1315 Mountain NW, Albuquerque, beingthereabq.com
Sarabande Home
4022 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-344-1253, sarabandehome.com
Spur Line Supply Co.
777 1st St NW, Albuquerque, 505-600-1109, railyardsmarket.org
800 20th St NW, Albuquerque, 505-242-6858, spurlinesupplyco.com
Tablao Flamenco
WINE STORES
800 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, tablaoflamenco.org
Santa Fe Botanical Garden
715 Camino Lejo, Santa Fe, 505-471-9103, santafebotanicalgarden.org
Arroyo Vino
218 Camino La Tierra, Santa Fe, 505-983-2100, arroyovino.com
Parcht
NURSERIES & SERVICES
OTHER SERVICES
103 East Plaza, Taos, 575-758-1994, Parcht.com
Baca Trees
Center for Ageless Living
Susan's Fine Wine and Spirits
7933 Edith NW, Albuquerque, 505-899-6666, bacastrees.com
3216 NM-47, Los Lunas, 505-865-8813, www.nmagelessliving.com
Eat & Drink Local Guide ALBUQUERQUE Ajiaco Colombian Bistro
Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by the diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. Cultural traditions of different Colombian ethnic groups play a role in our choice of ingredients. 3216 Silver SE, 505-266-2305, ajiacobistro.com
Artichoke Café
Fresh, local, seasonal ingredients, classic French techniques, extensive wine list, private dining, catering, and great atmosphere. 424 Central SE, 505-243-0200, artichokecafe.com
Campo at Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm
1005 S St. Francis, Santa Fe, 505-984-1582, sfwineandspirits.com
Farina
Starting with the finest organic flour, our pizza crusts are made by hand and topped with the freshest ingredients, including artisan cured meats. 510 Central SE, 505243-0130, farinapizzeria.com
Farina Alto
Farina Alto offers fresh, creative fare. Gather over a glass of wine, a good story, and a phenomenal plate of food. 10721 Montgomery NE, 505-298-0035, farinaalto.com
Five Star Burgers
Rooted in organic ingredients from our own farm and the Rio Grande Valley. Join us for breakfast daily 7:30-11:30am and dinner Wed-Sun 5-9pm. Reservations requested. 4803 Rio Grande NW, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com
Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of entrées, sandwiches, salads, a kids menu, beer, and wine. 1710 Central SW; 5901 Wyoming NE, 505-821-1909, 5starburgers.com
Devon's at Pop Smoke
Farm & Table
Join us for our first annual Christmas Market. Grand Opening in January with lunch and dinner prepared over an open fire and serving 32 beers on tap. 6001 Osuna Rd NE, Albuquerque, popsmokeabq.com
A wonderful dining experience! Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm. 8917 Fourth Street NW, 505-503-7124, farmandtablenm.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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Il Vicino Brewery
A contemporary Italian trattoria offering authentic Italian wood-oven pizza, entrées, salads, sandwiches, baked lasagna, and more. 11225 Montgomery NE, 505-271-0882; 3403 Central NE, 505-266-7855; 10701 Corrales NW, 505-899-7500, ilvicino.com
Level 5 - Rooftop Restaurant & Lounge
Located on the top floor of Hotel Chaco— experience a refined, chic, and contemporary atmosphere. 2000 Bellamah Ave NW, 505-246-9989, hotelchaco.com
TFK Smokehouse 400 Washington St SE, Albuquerque 505-639-5669 | tfksmokehouse.com
Savoy Bar & Grill
California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Farm-to-table dining from the area's best farms. Wine tastings and happy hour. 10601 Montgomery NE, 505-294-9463, savoyabq.com
Seasons Rotisserie & Grill
colombian bistro
now open
tuesday-saturday 11am-8pm
3216 Silver SE, Albuquerque 505-266-2305, www.ajiacobistro.com Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by a diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. Cultural traditions of different Colombian ethnic groups play a role in our choice of ingredients.
Oak-fired grill, local ingredients, and the best patio dining in Old Town! 2031 Mountain NW, 505-766-5100, seasonsabq.com
The Shop is now serving dinner as the nightshift on Friday and Saturday from 5pm to 10pm. Still serving local, organic, and seasonal dishes; and rotating weekly menus to bring you something creative and fresh!
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Arroyo Vino
Arroyo Vino, voted a top 100 restaurant in America by OpenTable reviewers, serves progressive American fare inspired by our on-premise garden and local purveyors. 218 Camino La Tierra, 505-983-2100, arroyovino.com
Bang Bite Filling Station
Fresh. Local. Tasty. A bunch of food enthusiasts obsessed with serving the very best crafted food we can get and delivering it the way it was meant to be enjoyed. 492 W Water Street, 505-469-2345, facebook.com/Bang-Bite-Filling-Station
Bodega Prime
400 Washington St SE, Albuquerque, 505-369-8668, tfksmokehouse505.com
The Acre
Coyote Cafe & Rooftop Cantina
The Acre is a farm to table restaurant offering fresh, local, seasonal, organic vegetarian food that will delight even the most devoted carnivores. 4410 Wyoming Blvd NE, Albuquerque, 505-366-3878, theacrerestaurant.com
The Shop Breakfast & Lunch
Come in for breakfast or lunch, creative American classics with Latin and creole influences, made from local and organic ingredients. 2933 Monte Vista NE, 505-433-2795, theshopbreakfastandlunch.com
Trifecta Coffee Company
We roast coffee and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods, sweet and savory, are made in house. 413 Montano NE, 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeecompany.com
Zacatecas
2933 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-433-2795
Roasting java in house, plus espresso, baked goods, and creative sandwiches. 60 E San Francisco, Santa Fe, 505-983-6138, 35northcoffee.com
TFK Smokehouse
The Grove features a bustling café experience serving breakfast, brunch, and lunch. Local, seasonal, organic foods, Intelligentsia coffee and tea, beer, wine, and signature sweets. 600 Central SE, 505-248-9800, thegrovecafemarket.com
Come in for breakfast or lunch, creative American classics with Latin and creole influences, made from local and organic ingredients.
35˚ North Coffee
As a restaurant, caterer, and retail store, Bodega Prime seeks to provide a memorable food experience in Santa Fe for locals and visitors alike. 1291 San Felipe, 505-303-3535, bodegaprime.com
The Grove Cafe & Market
2933 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-433-2795 theshopbreakfastandlunch.com
SANTA FE
Zacatecas, a real taquería, features recipes handed down from generation to generation with flavors that are true to the history and culture of Mexico. 3423 Central NE, 505-255-8226, zacatecastacos.com
Zinc Restaurant & Wine Bar
A three-level bistro featuring contemporary cuisine with a French flair. Dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails, and tasty bar bites! 3009 Central NE, 505-254-9462, zincabq.com
Elegant eatery featuring local cuisine with Southwestern flair, cocktails, and a rooftop bar. 132 W Water, 505-983-1615, coyotecafe.com
Fenix at Vanessie
Northern Coastal Italian menu influenced by local cuisine and flavors that change with the seasons. 434 W San Francisco, 505-982-9966, vanessiesantafe.com
Il Piatto
A local favorite since 1996, boasting an authentic Italian farmhouse experience, sourcing its ingredients directly from local farms, dairies, and ranches. Extensive wine list. 95 W Marcy, 505-984-1091, ilpiattosantafe.com
Il Vicino Brewery
A contemporary Italian trattoria offering authentic Italian wood-oven pizza, entrées, salads, sandwiches, baked lasagna, and more. Enjoy our own micro-brewed ales and home-brewed root beer. 321 W San Francisco, 505-986-8700, ilvicino.com
Loyal Hound
Locally sourced modern comfort food paired with craft beer, cider, and wine. 730 St. Michaels, 505-471-0440, loyalhoundpub.com
Ohori's Coffee Roasters
The original specialty, local micro-roasted coffee source since 1984. Along with our fresh beans, we serve espresso, pour-over, teas, pastries, donuts, burritos, chocolates, and more. 505 Cerrillos and 1098 St. Francis, 505-982-9692, ohoriscoffee.com
Paper Dosa
Parcht
505-930-5521, paper-dosa.com
Taos Diner I & II
Paper Dosa brings fresh, authentic homestyle south Indian dishes to your table. These bright and exciting flavors will leave you wanting more. 551 W Cordova,
Radish & Rye
/pärCHt/= the physical condition resulting from the need to drink wine, eat good food, and shop…in Taos. 103 E Plaza, 575-758-1994, parcht.com
Farm-inspired cuisine: simple yet innovative food and drinks sourced locally whenever possible. We work closely with local farmers and ranchers to build our menu. 548 Agua Fria, 505-930-5325, radishandrye.com
Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown, and organic breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine. 908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374; 216 B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989, taosdinner.com
Rasa Juice + Kitchen
The Gorge: Bar and Grill
An organic juice bar and café committed to offering delicious plant-based foods, coldpressed juices, and innovative cleansing and detox programs. 815 Early, 505-989-1288, www.rasajuice.com
Red Sage
Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder is perfect for your next romantic night out. Fare rotates seasonally. Enjoy the extensive wine list. 20 Buffalo Thunder, 505-819-2056, buffalothunderresort.com
Santa Fe Spirits
Hand-crafted, award-winning spirits made with New Mexico pride! Tours and cocktails available. Distillery, 7505 Mallard Way, 505-467-8892; Tasting Room, 308 Read, 505-780-5906, santafespirits.com
TerraCotta
A smart, casual restaurant located in a charming one-hundred-year-old adobe. Seasonally changing, globally inspired cuisine and an extensive, value-priced wine list. 304 Johnson, 505-989-1166, terracottawinebistro.com
The Compound Restaurant
Chef Mark Kiffin preserves a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution. 653 Canyon, 505982-4353, compoundrestaurant.com
The Palace Restaurant
Santa Fe's premier dining club. 142 W Palace, 505-428-0690, palacesantafe.com
TAOS Doc Martin’s
Serving lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. Patio dining, fresh local foods, award-winning wines, and margaritas. Try our signature chile rellenos. 125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-1977, taosinn.com
Five Star Burgers
Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of entrées, sandwiches, salads, a kids menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4–6 every day. 1032 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur, 575-758-8484, 5starburgers.com
Our menu is straightforward, yet eclectic, and chock full of favorites made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible. 103 E Plaza, 575-758-8866, thegorgebarandgrill.com
Creative Casual Cuisine 221 Highway 165, Placitas 505-771-0695, www.bladesbistro.com Chef and owner Kevin Bladergroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an award-winning wine list.
GREATER NEW MEXICO Algodones Distillery
Algodones products are available at our Tasting Room and in may fine retailers, bars, and restaurants. 15 Cll Alfredo, Algodones, 505-301-9992, algodonesdistillery.com
Ancient Way Cafe
A unique outpost offering great meals from scratch and fresh baked goods. Located 1 mile east of El Morro National Monument. 4018 Ice Caves Road, Ramah, 505-7834612, elmorro-nm.com
Join us for our first annual Christmas Market. Grand Opening in January with lunch and dinner prepared over an open fire and serving 32 beers on tap. 6001 Osuna Rd NE, Albuquerque popsmokeabq.com
Blades’ Bistro
Chef and owner Kevin Bladergroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an award-winning wine list. 221 Highway 165, Placitas, 505-771-0695, bladesbistro.com
Greenhouse Bistro
Good food always puts you in a good mood! Fresh, seasonal ingredients provide the basis for a meal that promotes healthy living. 5 Thomas, Los Lunas, 505-866-1936, greenhousebistro.com
South Indian cuisine
Pajarito Brewpub & Grill
Open for Lunch Tuesday-Sunday. Open for Dinner Everyday. Happy Hour TuesdaySunday 2-5 PM. 30 craft beers on tap. 614 Trinity Dr, Los Alamos, 505-662-8877, pajaritobrewpubandgrill.com
Sundance Mexican Restaurant
Homemade Mexican food served in a casual Southwest atmosphere in Red River. Appetizers, Sundance specials, sopapillas, steaks, and lots of combos. Beer, wine, sangria, and wine margaritas available. Reservations recommended. 401 E High St, Red River, 575-754-2971, redrivernm.com/ sundance/sr_food.html
Find more guides at ediblenm.com.
TAOS DINER I & II
908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374 216 B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989 www.taosdinner.com Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown, and organic breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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LAST BITE
TRIPPA DELLA NONNA
almost smoking. Add the onion, garlic, and tripe, and sauté 3 minutes. Add the tomato sauce, bring to a boil, and reduce to a simmer and cook, covered, for 45 minutes.
Serves 6
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the grated cheeses and the mint. When the tripe is finished, divide evenly among 6 warmed bowls and top with the cheese and mint mixture. Garnish with fresh jalapeños, onions, and a squeeze of lime juice. Serve with bread.
By Enrique Guerrero, Bang Bite Filling Station and Fenix at Vanessie Overdid it? This recipe is the perfect hangover cure to stimulate the senses, rejuvenate the insides, and clear the head. 2 pounds tripe 1/2 cup white vinegar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 red onion, thinly sliced 4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped 2 cups Basic Tomato Sauce (see below) 1/4 cup Pecorino Romano, freshly grated 1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated 1 bunch mint leaves, finely chopped 1 fresh jalapeño chile, finely chopped (garnish) 1/2 red onion, finely chopped (garnish) 2 limes, cut in quarters (garnish) A very good rustic Italian-style bread In a large pot, combine the tripe, vinegar, vanilla, and enough water to cover the tripe by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook until the tripe is very tender, about 60 to 75 minutes, replenishing the water as necessary. Drain the tripe and allow to cool. Slice the tripe into 1-inch strips. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over high heat until
PHOTO BY STEPHANIE CAMERON edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2017 80
Basic Tomato Sauce 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 Spanish onion, diced into 1/4-inch pieces 6 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced 3 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves 1/2 medium carrot, finely shredded Two 28-ounce cans peeled whole tomatoes, crushed by hand and juices reserved 1/2 cup of fresh basil, roughly chopped Salt, to taste In a 3-quart saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until soft and light golden brown, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add the thyme and carrot and cook 5 minutes more, until the carrot is quite soft. Add the tomatoes and juice and bring to a boil, stirring often. Lower the heat and simmer for 30 minutes until as thick as hot cereal. Add the fresh basil, season with salt, and serve. This sauce holds 1 week in the refrigerator or up to 6 months in the freezer. For another cure for what ails you, log on to ediblenm.com for Guerrero’s Agua del Cielo drink recipe.
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