Edible Santa Fe Spring Issue 2013 by edible New Mexico

edible

THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD FROM

Member of edible communities

Spring 2013

SANTA FE 速 ALBUQUERQUE TAOS

edible road trip

edible Santa Fe 路 Spring 2013

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SPRING 2013 - edible road trip departments

On the Cover

Letter from the Editor

57 Eat Local Guide

letter from the publishers

62 edible Santa Fe's 1st Annual Pie Contest

What’s Fresh, What’s Local

64 last bite: Pie town

Pecans By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Cooking Fresh Road Eats By Andrea Feucht

urban foraging Spring By Amelia White

Delicious New Mexico Serenity in the City By Brandon Stam

18 22

Destination Neighborhood The Railyard By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Memoir Becoming a Culinary Tourist By Elizabeth Grant Thomas

kitchen table politics Our Local Grocery Store, Where Food Meets Policy By Kathleen Gonzalez

Recipes by Suzette Lindemuth and Leila Salim

Features 24 edible road trip By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

34 casa gallina By Kate Manchester

38 Ojo Caliente By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

42 the heart of new mexico: agritourism By Alice Loy and Selena Marroquin

Picnic on the Highway Photo by Stephanie Cameron

On this Page

Cherry Pie from Pie-O-Neer Café in Pie Town, NM. Photo by Stephanie Cameron

46 what is local food tourism? By Ari LeVaux

Table Hopping By Sergio Salvador

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

letter from the editor Historically, New Mexico is a crossroads of trading routes from both north to south and east to west. I-25 and I-40 are just the most recent iterations of pre-Columbian road alignments. In Chaco Canyon, evidence of chocolate and macaw feathers point to an ancient tradition of travel and trade to and from central Mexico. By 1890, Fred Harvey had one of his dining facilities available every hundred miles along the Santa Fe line. Fresh beef and produce shipped in daily on special refrigeration cars provided a high quality dining experience for tourists traveling to see the authentic Southwest. In 1927, the US government designated Route 66 from Chicago to Los Angeles, running right through the middle of our state. The Mother Road brought hundreds of Midwesterners and Californians to New Mexico. In the more recent past, we have adopted tourism as an intrinsic part of our culture, both in terms of how we host travelers in our state, and how we, as New Mexicans, travel. As much as chile is the official staple of New Mexican food, the road trip is the official state pastime. Not only do we love to hit the road, we know how to do it in style. While New Mexico has embraced alternative and public transportation in a big way the past two decades with Albuquerque showcasing more than four-hundred miles of bike paths and the Rail Runner breezing along the Rio Grande corridor, we also love our cars! Classic cars restored with historic accuracy, low riders fine-tuned and decorated with painstaking attention to detail, and a spectrum of old jalopies, farm trucks, and grocery-getters creatively held together to get the last few miles squeezed out of worn and tired engines and tires. To visit the inordinate list of places known for their majestic beauty, bizarre geology, amazing and unique sites, dramatic landscapes, holes in the wall, and not-to-be-missed local characters, would take a lifetime and a half. In this issue, we take both a philosophical and practical look at the road trip in particular, and traveling in general, with special attention, as always, to local food. Andrea Feucht builds a bountiful picnic for day-trippers, Ari LeVaux gets travel tips from Chef Rocky Durham, former edible-owner Kate Manchester takes us on a local food get-away to Casa Gallina in Taos, Elizabeth Grant Thomas reflects on the nature of food and travel, and we visit our sister publications in other Southwestern edible communities. We invite you to clean your windshield and fill your tank, fill your bike tires and grease your chain, or simply lace up your walking shows and hit the road with us on, our first, Edible Road Trip.

Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Publisher Bite Size Media, LLC

Editor Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Copy Editors Margaret Marti, Sarah Skenazy

Contributors Andrea Feucht, Kathleen Gonzalez, Elizabeth Grant Thomas, Lisa Houston, Ari LeVaux, Alice Loy, Kate Manchester, Selena Marroquin, Rick Scibelli, Sergio Salvador, Brandon Stamm, Terri Taylor, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, Amelia White

design and layout Stephanie Cameron

PHOTOGRAPHY Stephanie Cameron, Sergio Salvador, Rick Scibelli, Jeremy Swanson, Carole Topalian

web & social media editors Stephanie Cameron, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Video Producer D. Walt Cameron

ADVERTISING Sheli Armstrong D. Walt Cameron

Subscribe ∙ Give a Gift Buy an Ad ∙ LETTERS 505-212-0791 or WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or e-mail us at info@ediblesantafe.com edible Santa Fe takes pride in providing its subscribers with fast, friendly, small town service. Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible Santa Fe four times a year: spring, summer, fall and winter. We distribute throughout Central and Northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2013 All rights reserved.

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

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edible Santa Fe 路 Spring 2013

In pulling together our first travel issue, Walt and I made several day trips to destinations we had never been to in New Mexico, even though we both grew up here. Driving on backcountry roads in New Mexico is cathartic—it calms the mind and is a reminder of the state’s beauty—the vastness and breathtaking skies always leave me in awe. While making these journeys we met many interesting people along the way; Richard Spera at Casa Gallina, Wendi Gelford at Ojo Caliente, and Kathy Knapp from Pie-o-Neer Cafe. In true New Mexico fashion they all welcomed us with big smiles and warm hospitality. Pie Town, population 283, was definitely worth the trip! What a beautiful little gem. Serendipitously, we arrived the day the Pie-o-neer reopened for the season—the folks from the surrounding area (up to 200 miles away) come back to this little café with excitement. They gather and catch up after a long winter. Pie Town sustains two pie cafes, DanCyn’ Windmill Museum with a ton of donated windmills and old farm equipment, and an abandoned car garage—that’s all, nothing else. With one hundred miles of open road in front of and behind you, and nothing but lots of rusty cars and falling down barns in between, you feel like you have traveled back in time when you visit Pie Town. We tried every pie Pie-O-Neer had on the shelf and they certainly know their pie. Scan the QR code at the back of magazine in the “Last Bite” and watch a video of this charming place. After Pie Town we took a dirt road (NM 603) for fifty or so miles until we met up with NM 117, which took us through some of the most spectacular scenery in the state—sandstone cliffs as gold as the sun and the El Malpais Natural Arch. If you can time it right and hit it at sunset, it’s truly awesome. We hope this issue inspires you to hit the open road and find your own adventure—be sure and take the back road! Stephanie & Walt Cameron

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

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edible Santa Fe and ARCA announce our

second Annual

May 11 7am-noon

Los Ranchos Growers Market

Please join us for this one day only event!

edible

SANTA FE

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Heirloom Tomatoes Jemez Chiles Isleta Chiles Chimayo Chiles Nambe Chiles Sandia Chiles Herbs Galore Hopi Red Watermelons Yellow Watermelons Aztec White Beans Tepary Beans Havasupi Sunflowers Acoma Pumpkin Penasco Cheese Pumpkin AND MORE!!

Home Grown New Mexico & edible Santa Fe present our 3rd Annual

Kitchen Garden & Coop Tour SANTA FE - JULY 28 & our NEW location CORRALES - AUGUST 11 Volunteering is a way to see the tour for FREE on Saturday and help us on Sunday. Please email homegrownnewmexico@ gmail.com or call 505-473-1403 for more details and how you can help. Home Grown New Mexico uses these tours as a fundraiser for their educational classes and workshops throughout the year. Log on to learn more at:

homegrownnewmexico.org

edible Santa Fe

We are nurturing thousands of native plant starts for your garden, all sourced through Native Seed Search for the New Mexico garden, and lovingly tended in the Arca Organics greenhouses. For more information please visit our website, or email info@ediblesantafe.com. A portion of the proceeds will benefit our community partners at ARCA. Women's edible Santa Fe ·Club. Spring 2013 5 Additional support provided by the Albuquerque

what’s fresh, what’s local: All this and more at New Mexico farmer's markets this spring.

larder BUFFALO CHEESE CHICKEN EGGS GOAT MEAT GOAT MILK, YOGURT & CHEESES GRASSFED BEEF & BISON LAMB LARD PORK SAUSAGE TURKEY VENISON YAK MEAT

pantry CHICOS CORNMEAL DRIED BEANS DRIED CHILE DRIED FRUITS DRIED HERBS GARLIC GOURDS JAMS & JELLIES JERKY MAZA PASTA PICKLES PRESERVES PECANS PINON PISTACHIOS QUINOA

fresh ARUGULA BEETS BOK CHOY BRAISING GREENS BROCCOLI CABBAGE CARROTS CHARD CILANTRO COLLARDS GREEN GARLIC HERBS HOTHOUSE CUKES HOTHOUSE TOMATOES JAPANESE MUSTARD JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES KALE KOHLRABI LEEKS MUSHROOMS MUSTARD GREENS ONIONS OYSTER MUSHROOMS PARSLEY PEAS POTATOES RADISHES RHUBARB SALAD MIXES SHITAKES SPINACH SPRING ONIONS SPROUTS MICROGREENS TURNIPS

Photo by Carole Topalian

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

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noun \pi-'käns, or 'pē-kans? By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher ∙ Photo by Stephanie Cameron National Pecan Month and New Mexico have much to celebrate in April. Both voluptuous and delicious, pecans offer nutritional benefits and culinary opportunities. These delicate red-brown drupes, or stone fruit, provide high levels of antioxidants, essential minerals, and omega-6 fatty acids. Their light texture and sweet, rich flavor make them great as an addition to numerous savory and sweet dishes, or on their own by the handful. In New Mexico, for commercial purposes, growers plant three varieties of pecan: Western, Wichita, and Ideal. The mating habits of pecans are complex and delicate—they do better if several varieties are planted in a single orchard. The pecan flower, about the size of a peppercorn, is wind pollinated. Pecan trees have both male and female flowers. Because these flowers bloom at different times, selfpollination is unlikely. To make sure a grove produces lots of nuts, a grower may plant a pollinator like the Wichita, even though it typically produces less fruit, because its male flowers are blooming at the same time as the female flowers of the Western, which typically produces more fruit. New Mexico orchards produce prolifically! Only in the past fifty years have pecan orchards really become a viable commodity crop in the state. In that time, New Mexico has grown to be one of the most abundant pecan producers in the nation—a contender for producing the most pounds of pecans per year. While both Georgia and Texas produce millions of pounds on thousands of acres—about seventytwo million pounds on 129,000 acres and sixty-two million pounds on 181,000 acres respectively, according to the 2002 United States Department of Agriculture Agricultural Census—New Mexico manages to produce about sixty million pounds on about 40,000 acres.

north as Valencia County will come into production in the next few years. The word from the State Extension Service is New Mexico pecan production is just getting started. According to the US Pecan Growers Association, annual US pecan production rose steadily for the past century, with important improvements such as development of pecan varieties with more consistent pollination and production at the turn of the twentieth century and the invention of a mechanized sheller in 1925. But the truly staggering pecan statistics emerge only in the last decade, and reflect interesting trends in global pecan consumption. In the past five years, the global demand for pecans has skyrocketed, most of which comes from China. The US produces about eighty percent of the world’s pecans. From 2003 to 2009, US pecan exports to China went from approximately 850,000 pounds to eighty-three million pounds—now making up about twenty-seven percent of US production. While currently only a small portion of the pecans grown in New Mexico are sent overseas, the continued growth in the Chinese market, as well as new and growing demand in India, mean that more and more New Mexico nuts will be sent abroad. Unlike our Texan neighbors, New Mexicans have yet to really embrace, explore, and celebrate our relationship with the pecan. A perfect place to begin building a love affair with, and a cultural tradition around, a new food is to use it in almost everything. Many folks associate the wrinkled nut with sweets and ice cream, but the truth is that they make a delicious snack food, condiment, or addition to a number of recipes that typically call for other types of nuts. Venture beyond your sweet tooth with the pecan recipes on the following page.

Currently, nearly all pecan production in New Mexico happens in Doña Ana County, though hundreds of acres of new orchards as far

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

what's fresh, what's local Pecan Pesto

Red Chile Glazed Pecans

, I love making pesto by In the summer, when basil is abundant perfect for pasta and the gallon. This easy to prepare sauce, y when you need a fast salads, freezes well and comes in hand and delicious meal.

These tasty morsels are great atop a salad, sprinkled over game night party dips, or by the handful at the movies.

2 cups fresh basil leaves 3 medium cloves of garlic 1/2 cup raw pecans ce, freshly grated 2/3 cup hard cheese of your choi all good choices— (Parmesan, Pecorino, or Romano are several hard cheeses) Old Windmill Dairy now offers Salt and pepper 1/2 cup olive oil in a food processor. Pulse Combine the garlic, basil, and pecans edients. Add the cheese several times to coarsely chop the ingr are a coarse sandy texture. and pulse again until the ingredients the olive oil, and season Remove the mixture to a bowl, stir in ral tablespoons to a bowl with salt and pepper to taste. Add seve simple meal. If you don’t of fresh, hot pasta for an amazing and ion it by the 1/4 cup plan on using the pesto all at once, port into ziplock bags and freeze.

1 cup pecans, halved 2 teaspoons tamari 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon molasses 1/2 teaspoon New Mexico red chile, finely ground Preheat the oven to 275° F. Prep a 9 by 12-inch cookie sheet by covering it with parchment paper. Combine all ingredients except the pecans in a medium bowl and stir well. Add the nuts and continue to stir until the nuts are thoroughly and evenly coated. Spread the nuts on the parchment, making sure they are well distributed and lying as flat as possible. Bake for about 15 minutes, then let cool to room temperature. Once they’ve cooled, you can store them in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a month.

Plant No.352801

THE

O L D W I N D M I L L D A I RY presents

S CALDER LLE A A V Pasteurized

Goat and Cow’s Milk

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

culture, vegetable rennet, calcium chloride, vegetable ash, and kosher salt

NCI

A • NEW

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cooking fresh

Road Eats By Andrea Feucht ∙ Photos by Stephanie Cameron

(watch for the sign to turn west), for a visit to the lovely Cerrillos Hills State Park. Spring shows itself early here. Miles of trails and day-use picnic grounds are just what the doctor ordered.

Just as the predictable annual winds barge across the state, the threat of frost punches the clock for the season, and we, in turn, realize a good spring-cleaning is in order. The changing season nudges us to tidy the house, clean out the woodstove, or organize the garage, yet blue skies beckon. How about this? Let’s backburner the dirty stove and shelve the dusty bookcase to take a little road trip and bask in the lengthening days. We’ll keep expenses under control with a cooler full of homemade goodies—call it saving for the housecleaning service fund.

A longer, more drive-happy route is the High Road to Taos. Starting from Santa Fe, drive past Pojoaque to Nambé, turning east on NM 503. Your route heads north on NM 520 through Chimayo. Stop to buy a cookbook, but don’t forget that you brought your lunch! Continue on NM 76 for a gorgeous climb through scrubby rangeland with the Jemez Mountains on the horizon. NM 75 and NM 518 go toward the big Taos ski basin and more stunning views. Numerous places along the way are perfect for a lunch stop; even though the route is only fifty two miles, you can take most of a day to enjoy every bend, byway, and scenic overlook.

We love our state and we adore our cars; a trip to Octopus Car Wash counts as spring-cleaning in my book. The day before leaving, head to the store to pick up needed ingredients for a road-friendly picnic. These recipes all travel well and can be made the night before—in fact, several of the delicacies are better the next day. I’ve included side dishes, salads, and hearty sandwiches, two of each. Pick one of each for a day trip, or all of them for a longer excursion or a big group. Every item will be safe for a good half-day packed without refrigeration. For longer than that, I’d recommend a cooler—helpful for beverages, too! Now, where to go? It all depends on your preference for time driving versus time wandering. If departing from Albuquerque, the shortest trip possible with some quality browsing time is Madrid—a quick drive along the Turquoise Trail (NM 14) will wind through low hills before arriving at the tiny town known for pedestrianism, both human and canine, and art galleries galore. Stroll for a bit, making sure to reload on caffeine at Java Junction. Then head north to Cerrillos

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Sojourners still looking for a little bit of snow adventure can simply take the winding road up from Santa Fe’s Artist Road to the Ski Basin. You’ll pass the Dale Ball trail system with thirty miles of hiking options, Hyde Memorial State Park with a historic lodge and picnic sites galore, and several more trailheads en route to the Santa Fe Ski Basin. Bring your snowshoes or skis or just your lunch as you enjoy the sights. I’d personally cap off the day with a soak at Ten Thousand Waves on the way back down, but only if not utterly stuffed from the delicious car food. Find descriptions, more detail of these routes, and a whole slew of other trip options on the fantastic state tourism website: www.newmexico.org.

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

Hundreds of recipes and stories! With more being added everyday.

Asparagus & Almond Tart

Sun-dried Tomato Pesto Linguine

center for ageless living

Grilled Veggie Panini

Lamb Meatballs with Cucumber

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edible Santa Fe 路 Spring 2013

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cooking fresh Slow-Roasted Tomatoes with Sea Salt and Ground Chile Adapted from Molly Wizenberg We start with the promise of late summer’s tomatoes by taking ordinary store-bought Roma tomatoes and forcing every bit of flavor out of them by slow roasting. The result is between fresh tomato and sun-dried potency. Vary the baking time to suit your preference for dehydration, or for pure tomato flavor. Ripe tomatoes, preferably Romas Olive oil Sea salt Ground chile powder (red or green) Preheat the oven to 200° F. Cut the stem end off the tomatoes and halve them lengthwise. Brush or spray the open halves with olive oil, then place skin side down on a baking sheet. Sprinkle sea salt and chile powder sparingly over the cut face of the tomatoes—it will concentrate as they bake. Let them roast for a minimum of 3 hours and up to 12, until reduced in size by at least half but still soft (you don’t want tomato jerky). Remove from oven and let cool on the baking sheets completely, then store in an airtight container in the fridge. Snack at your leisure while on the road, alone, or with briny olives as accompaniment.

Fingerling Potatoes with Chives and Parsley Adapted from Gourmet Magazine These are savory little morsels, perfect for eating out of the container or as a formal side dish to the heartier recipes that follow. Consider these a simple variation on a potato salad without the mayonnaise risk and little else but the essence of potato. 1 pound fingerling potatoes 1 cup water 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 garlic clove, pressed 1/2 teaspoon salt Black pepper, freshly ground 2 tablespoons chives, chopped 1 tablespoon Italian parsley, chopped

Inspired by Robin’s Kitchen at the Harwood Art Center in Albuquerque, www.robinskitchen.net The first time I ate a cousin of this salad I was pleasantly full for hours—fair warning if you’re planning on eating a main course as well. Find a delicious variety of hearty grains, herbs, and lemon at Robin’s Kitchen.

Peel the potatoes (or not, they might get wrinkly later but will still taste awesome), and halve them lengthwise. Combine the potatoes, water, olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper in a small skillet with a lid. Bring everything to simmer, then cover and continue simmering with a pan shake now and then until potatoes are cooked, about 15 minutes. Uncover the skillet and continue to simmer until the liquid has reduced to a glaze, about 5 minutes. Toss in the herbs. Serve at any temperature, same day or next.

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Wheat Berry and Barley Salad

1 cup wheat berries 1 cup pearl barley 2 garlic cloves, minced and mashed to a paste with 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 6 scallions, finely chopped 1 1/2 cups corn, cooked (optional) 1 pint vine-ripened cherry tomatoes, halved 1/2 cup fresh chives, chopped 1 tablespoon lemon juice Salt and pepper to taste

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

cooking fresh Bring a large kettle of salted water to a boil, then add wheat berries and cook at a slow boil for 30 minutes. Add the barley and cook grains another 40 minutes. Note that at our altitude all hard grains take longer than you think—taste after the time window is up and keep going until they are done. While the grains are cooking, in a large bowl stir together garlic paste, vinegar, and oil. Drain grains well and add to garlic mixture. Toss mixture well and cool. Add scallions, corn, tomatoes, chives, lemon juice; salt and pepper to taste and toss well. Chill up to one day before serving at room temperature.

Cabbage Salad with Pecans While slaw itself isn’t so New Mexican, the pecans add a local touch, as does the inclusion of some fiery local mustard. One recipe called for spinach, but I substituted kale to keep the color and for extra flavor. This is great the day it is made and well into the next day, though it will weep some juice as it marinates. 1/2 small red cabbage, trimmed, cored, and shredded (about 6 cups) 1/2 small green cabbage, trimmed, cored, and shredded (about 6 cups) 1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more to taste 1/2 bunch fresh kale, stemmed and cut into 1/2-inch wide ribbons (about 4 cups loosely packed) 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar 1 tablespoon Dijon or other fancy mustard (locally-made Lusty Monk brand comes to mind) 1/2 teaspoon cumin, ground 1/4 cup olive oil 1/2 cup toasted pecans, chopped Black pepper, freshly ground

(Cheater’s) Muffaletta If you haven't tried a muffaletta sandwich before, there is no time like spring. This New Orleans classic is best after aging for a day under heavy weights (yes, really). It’s kind of like a cold-pressed panino of meaty cheesy goodness. For picnic efficiency, we’re saving time by not making the olive spread or the vinaigrette from scratch.

In a large bowl, toss shredded red and green cabbage with salt. Transfer cabbage to a colander (I like to use a salad spinner to see how much water comes out—more than you might think!) and let it drain for two hours. This helps to ensure crispy slaw. After well drained, you can rinse the cabbage if it tastes too salty—it won’t soak the water back up during a rinse. Put the cabbage into a large bowl and add the kale. In a medium bowl, whisk the vinegar, mustard and cumin together. Add the oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly until the ingredients are thoroughly emulsified. Toss the salad with the dressing and add the toasted pecans. Season with pepper.

1 pound round bread loaf, 3 – 4 inches high 1 cup jarred olive salad (often labeled “Italian olive salad”) 1/2 cup red wine vinaigrette, the best you can buy 1/4 pound prosciutto 1/4 pound sandwich pepperoni 1/4 pound Genoa salami 1/4 pound provolone cheese 1 large ball fresh mozzarella, sliced thinly 1 medium red onion, sliced thinly 1 jar roasted red peppers in water 1 jar artichoke hearts, drained and chopped A few handfuls of fresh arugula or spinach Fresh basil leaves Cut the bread in half horizontally, then hollow out top and bottom space for all the fillings. Smear olive salad over the bread bottom and top. Begin layering the ingredients with a periodic drizzle of the red wine vinaigrette: meats, provolone, onion, greens, artichoke hearts, basil leaves, roasted red peppers, fresh mozzarella, remaining olive salad.

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

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cooking fresh Put the top of the bread on without spilling everything, then wrap the muffuletta tightly in plastic wrap—very, very tightly. Place in refrigerator and weigh it down with a cast iron pan. Let set up to a full day.

Pan Bagnat The name actually means bathed bread, so the best way to describe the pan bagnat is: “It’s a Niçoise salad smashed inside French bread.” Like the muffaletta, it develops flavor from a multi-hour rest under pressure from a tight wrap and weights to smash it down. The briny components meld with oil, marinating the rest of the fillings without rupturing the hearty bread. Traditional ingredients vary by family, but the key components are briny things, oily things, crunchy vegetables, salty things, and crusty bread. Mayonnaise should never be used (in this or any picnic food). As always, high quality ingredients will make for an excellent sandwich.

at the Historic Taos Inn

Fresh Local Foods & Award-Winning Wines

1/4 cup red wine vinaigrette, the best you can buy 1 smallish baguette—the fat and short kind, not skinny and long 12 ounces canned tuna, packed in olive oil 1 small green pepper, sliced into rings 1 small red onion, sliced into rings 2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced 1 cup kalamata olives chopped 1 tomato, thinly sliced Slice the baguette horizontally, then tear out some of the soft insides to make room for the filling. Starting with the tuna, layer the ingredients on the bottom half of the loaf. Drizzle the vinaigrette over everything, then put the top half on and wrap it tighter than a tourniquet with ample plastic wrap. When loading the car, pile other items on top of it to squish it further. Serve anytime after a few hours rest and marination.

Premier Live Music Perfect Margaritas

Once upon a time, Andrea Feucht woke up to the realization that she was obsessed with food and was a decent writer, to boot. For nearly a decade she has been writing freelance, crafting tales of food personalities and casting a critical eye on restaurants. Her work appears locally and nationally, and her first book was published in October by Globe Pequot Press: "The Food Lovers' Guide to Santa Fe, Albuquerque and Taos." Find Andrea and her book at http://fb.me/foodloversnm

575-758-2233

125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte Taos, New Mexico

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

Urban Foraging

By Amelia White

Five Things to Forage Now: Spruce Tips – The bright green bundles of new spruce needles have a bright, citrusy, light evergreen flavor. For the most delicate flavor, harvest them before the papery brown covering has fallen off. I've seen recipes for spruce beer, spruce jelly, pickled spruce tips, and spruce tip shortbread—all kinds of things! Finely chopped spruce tips and salt make a delicious marinade for salmon.

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

Morels – In May, you may find these wild mushrooms in the woods just after a rain. As with all mushrooms, be sure to research carefully how to identify them—for morels there is really only one close lookalike. I think these tasty wild mushrooms look like inside-out brains! Most people just lightly bread and fry them, but they taste great in any recipe where you might use oyster mushrooms.

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Mulberries – Mulberry trees grow all over town, and their berries look like little elongated blackberries. Look for a mess of fallen fruit that leaves black spots on the sidewalk then look up. They taste like blackberries, though less tangy. If you pick them while they are still slightly reddish, they have a bit more acidity. The female version of the mulberry tree is shrubbier than the large male shade trees. Try them in any recipe that calls for blackberries!

edible

Nopales – The tender young paddles of the prickly pear cactus have a nice tangy flavor and are common food in Mexico. Harvest the new growth with tongs then scrub with a vegetable brush to remove all the tiny needles. Nopales have a mucilaginous texture, kind of like okra; blanching them briefly in boiling water helps reduce the sliminess. They taste great with scrambled eggs and chorizo, or in a salad with tomatoes and onions. This summer I plan to char them on the grill and serve them in tacos.

FARMERS’ MARKET & CSA LISTINGS

Lilac Blossoms – For about two weeks each spring these fragrant blossoms are all over town in pink, purple or white. Some say the settlers brought early-blooming plants like lilacs so they would know when to begin planting other crops. Candied, they make a beautiful dessert decoration, but the process is painstaking. I've tried recipes for lilac-infused vodka and lilac sugar, but I've had better luck with simple syrup. The key to floral infusions is to not over-steep the blossoms. Blogger Amy White is totally obsessed with vegetables and fruits. Amy can be found on www.ediblesantafe.com and on her blog, www.veggieobsession.com.

Farmers markets and CSAs are the best ways to get fresh-from-the-farm, local, and organic produce. Lilac Cocktail

Edible Santa Fe and The New Mexico Farmers’ Market Association are the best places to find a farmers market or CSA near you.

Lilac blossoms can be made into a delicious simple syrup to use in cocktails or desserts. Interestingly, sometimes the syrup doesn't really smell like lilacs, but it tastes like they smell. Lilac Simple Syrup 1/2 cup water 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup packed lilac blossoms Combine all ingredients and simmer until the blossoms are just wilted, about 5 to 10 minutes. Strain out the blossoms. Fair warning—it tends to come out a pale green color—if you want a nice purple color, you can add a frozen blueberry or a very tiny amount of food coloring. Lilac Cocktail 2 ounces gin 1 ounce lilac syrup 1 ounce lemon or lime juice

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Shake or stir with ice, strain, and garnish with lilac blossoms—the acid from the citrus turns it a sprightly shade of pink.

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

terra

Taste The New Southwest

Inspired by Northern New Mexico and infused with local and organically sourced ingredients, new Executive Chef Andrew Cooper’s menu blends a seasonal sense of balance, place and comfort to create a new twist on contemporary American cuisine. 877.262.4666 • fourseasons.com/santafe • 198 state road 592, santa fe edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

Watermelon Salad

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delicious new mexico

Serenity in the City Old town farm By Brandon Stam I pride myself in finding places off the beaten path, so I was surprised to find Old Town Farm just minutes away from the hustle and bustle of Albuquerque’s Old Town and Downtown. An instant sense of calm came over me when I arrived at the spacious farm’s entrance lined with giant trees. I made my way to a very classic looking house to meet Linda Thorne, who along with her husband Lanny Tonning, has owned and operated the twelve-acre farm since 1977.

America, the Duranes Lateral, which still provides water for the farm. As we walked around the farm Linda showed me the abundant produce in her garden. Fortunately, she offered me delicious samples, including colorful heirloom tomatoes and perfectly ripe raspberries. The farm also has more exotic offerings such as Shishito peppers, Fushimi peppers, and Misome, a nutritious Japanese green that is great for pickling.

As soon as I met Linda I could sense the incredible energy and passion she has for Old Town Farm, or as she calls it, “the green heart of the city.” She has an effervescent personality that is contagious, and an abundance of ideas that blend the traditional roots of the farm with the many changes to the area over the past three decades.

Old Town Farm recently expanded their vegetable garden in order to give their walk-in and bike-in customers more options and quantity, as well as for their customers at the Downtown Growers Market. This expansion resulted in downsizing their horse farm. “Once a horse farm, forever a horse farm!” Linda assured me. She reminisced fondly about how many hundreds of horses have been through the property, which has direct access to the Bosque Trails.

Linda informed me that long before Albuquerque was settled by the Spanish in 1706, Pueblo Indians had been living and farming in the area. Old Town Farm borders the oldest registered acequia in North

Of all the topics we discussed during my visit, Linda seemed the most energized about Bike-In Coffee, a new weekend activity that they launched in October 2012. Bike-In Coffee invites all kinds of cyclists into Old Town Farm to enjoy great coffee, fresh pastries, and quiche that uses many of the ingredients from the garden. You can access the farm from the bike path on the south side of I-40 between Gabaldon and Rio Grande Boulevard or from the Mountain Road Bike Trail via Montoya. In addition, there is free Wi-Fi, fire pits for when it’s a bit chilly, and you can even pick out fresh veggies from the garden to take with you. Bike-In Coffee will open up again in mid-March on Saturday and Sunday mornings from 8am to 2pm and will be open additional days as the weather warms. The farm has also recently offered its space for weddings and events. Whether you are from out of town or live in Albuquerque this is a great way to experience the city and its agricultural roots while still enjoying some urban amenities. A number of bike shops in town offer rentals, including Routes (www.routesrentals.com) located right near Old Town on Mountain Road. 949 Montoya Street NW, Albuquerque; 505-764-9116, www.oldtownfarm.com Brandon Stam helps cultivate food entrepreneurs around New Mexico as a Project Manager for Delicious New Mexico.

Photo by Linda Thorne

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

The Railyard destination neighborhoods

By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher · Illustration by Stephanie Cameron The last stop heading north on the Rail Runner lands you in the Santa Fe Railyard. Visiting Santa Fe by train, the Railyard can be a stepping off point for a fantastic adventure in the area, or it can be the destination. In the past decade, the Railyard experienced a renaissance through city planning efforts and a community committed to maintaining the character of this cultural and social activity center. The Rail Runner first arrived in December 2008, but the very first train, an Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe, pulled into the station in February 1880. Since the train started bringing visitors to Santa Fe, the Railyard has been a special place for visitors and locals alike. Hopping off the train puts you in shouting distance of a dozen tasty eateries, great shopping, internationally recognized fine art, and one of the most revered farmers markets in the country. As a tourist visiting the area for the weekend, you might fly into the Albuquerque Sunport on Friday evening, then catch the first morning northbound train on Saturday at 9am from downtown. You’ll arrive at the Railyard in time to grab a cup of joe from Station Coffee, then stroll over to the Santa Fe Farmers Market to pick up fixings for a pic-

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

nic lunch—grab some greens from Romero Farms, goat cheese from Old Wind Mill Dairy, raspberry jam from Heidi’s, some McGinn’s pistachios, a little Bell'Incanto Organics pesto, and a loaf of Cloud Cliff bread. Find a sunny bench along the corridor or in the park and enjoy your spoils with good company, or if the spring weather seems unpredictable, find a table inside at the market. On a blustery spring day, you might head to any number of small galleries, all a short walk from the market. Whether you want to shop for traditional and contemporary New Mexican arts and crafts, or are in the market for paintings, pottery, or fine handcrafted furniture, you can find an eclectic sampling of Santa Fe’s art scene represented at the Railyard. You can experience the latest the international art world has to offer at SITE Santa Fe. If you want to get more hands-on, the Railyard offers a number of community spaces with one-day weekend classes. Santa Fe Clay offers classes on everything from glazing and slab construction to paper clay and Raku firing. Or you can stop by the Railyard Performance Center and learn a little West African and Haitian dance or take a yoga class. Arguably, the three acres of

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warehouses and storefronts offer enough fine art for several days of sightseeing, events, and activities.

two hours and have a recommended donation of ten dollars. Visit www.homegrownnm.org for a complete list of classes.

The Railyard offers a diverse urban experience coupled with engaging and educational outdoor activities. On a warm day, you stretch your legs and stroll to the south and explore the Railyard Park with its amazing array of native plants, plazas, and ornamental and edible gardens. The Railyard Stewards, an organization who, according to their website, “…work in partnership with the City of Santa Fe in a unique care, conservation and education effort to encourage residents to actively participate in [the] newest and largest city park and adjacent community plaza.” The Stewards run a number of programs in the park and at the Community Room on Callejon Street, including free workshops, Prescription Trails, public art, and a community food garden. Homegrown New Mexico, in collaboration with the Railyard Stewards offer a number of classes on Saturday and Sunday mornings throughout the spring and summer—learn about water catchment, seed starting, composting, and more. Classes are typically

The Santa Fe Farmers' Market Institute, Warehouse 21, Bioneers, the Railyard Stewards, Santa Fe Clay, Outside Magazine, SITE Santa Fe and El Museo Cultural, are a few of the amazing community- and education-oriented groups who have taken up residence in the Railyard. On any day you can find locals enjoying a brew on the patio of the Second Street Brewery, riding bikes through the park, shopping at the farmers market, or hosting some sort of celebration under the water tower. The way Santa Fe residents use and enjoy the Railyard reflects a deep sense of place, character and history, all rooted in greeting visitors, gathering, eating, creating and celebrating. In the spirit and tradition of tourism in New Mexico, visitors are always invited and welcome to join the festivities. For a complete list of Railyard businesses, activities and history, visit: www.railyardsantafe.com, www.railyardpark.org, www.sfrailyardcc.org

Hopping off the train puts you in shouting distance of a dozen tasty eateries, great shopping, internationally recognized fine art, and one of the most revered farmers markets in the country. Weekends at the Farmers Market Pavilion

Open Saturdays 8am-1pm · Sunday 10-4 Open in May on Tuesdays 8am-1pm Cafe Fresh · Chocolate Smith Vivac Winery · Garden Shops Artful Teas · Gift Shop subscribe @ ediblesantafe.com

Saturday Farmers Market Open year round . 8am-1pm

Open every Sunday 10am-4pm

Summer Hours 7am-12pm, June-Sept

We have Something for everyone... Authentic Treasures of New Mexico, family friendly, Live Music, Cafe... www.artmarketsantafe.com

Fresh Produce . Dairy . Meats Handmade Farm Crafts

Tuesday Market starts May 7th . 8am-1pm

www.santafefarmersmarket.com edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

M O V I E

S E R I E S

Final Three Movies—Don’t miss it!

MOVIES THAT MATTER! March 20

Genetic Roulette Alarming questions & proﬁt-driven politics behind GMO’s! Top Transformational Film of 2012 by AwareGuide!

April 17

The Light Bulb Conspiracy Once upon a time...products were made to last. Today, it’s about increasing consumer demand.

May 22

Edible City Digging in the dirt for real change! Transforming communities with local “Good Food Systems” Showings: 7 pm at Santa Fe Farmers’ Market Pavilion General Admission: $12; Institute Members, Seniors & Students over 18: $10; Under 18 and Santa Fe Farmers’ Market Vendors: Free

505.983.7726 • www.farmersmarketinstitute.org

Beneﬁcial Farms CSA Crumpackers Café & Bakeshop Intergalactic Bread and Space Sauces Jacona Farm La Fonda on the Plaza

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

Lakind Dental Group Dan Merians and MorganStanley Red Mesa Meats Refugio Verde Romero Farms South Mountain Dairy

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Rio Bravo Trading Co.

411 South Guadalupe St. | Santa Fe N.M 505.982.0230

Railyard Neighborhood Guide Andiamo

Santa Fe Farmers’ Market Shops

We prepare the finest, local and seasonal ingredients a la minute with the utmost care and respect. Dining at Andiamo inspires conversation and evokes memories. We see Andiamo as a collective experience for people who love food, and our staff is genuinely happy to work with our customers. At the end of the day, we want our guests to feel better for having eaten here. Across the street from the Railyard. Lunch Mon – Fri; 11am – 2pm; Dinner Nightly from 5pm

Created by the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market, these shops present an alluring collection of specialty food and giftwares to enhance your shopping experience.

322 Garfield St, 505-995-9595, www.andiamosantafe.com

Flying star Fine cuisine in a friendly scene. We’re your locally-owned neighborhood cafe serving made from scratch food, desserts and fresh roasted coffee. We’re open early and stay open late from breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in between. Diverse magazines and free Wi-Fi. 500 Market Street in the Railyard, 505-216-3939, www.flyingstarcafe.com

Rio Bravo Trading Company Old timers would say there used to be places like Rio Bravo on the Plaza where trails and traders from Mexico and the East would meet. Rio Bravo offers customers a chance to step into the past for a lesson in “Cowboyography” and walk away with a piece of history. Filled to the brim with cowboy and Indian collectibles: old pawn jewelry, historic pottery, hats, chaps, saddles, spurs, and more. There is a story behind everything in the store and owner Randy Rodriguez is there to share his knowledge with you. 411 S Guadalupe St, 505-982-0230, www.riobravotradingcompany.blogspot.com

Santa Fe Farmers’ Market The Santa Fe Farmers’ Market is held Saturday year-round in the Railyard District. The Santa Fe Farmers' Market is 45 years old, and represents 150 producers. Saturday 8am – 1pm, year round; Tuesday 8am – 1pm (May to November) 1607 Paseo de Peralta, 505-983-4098, www.santafefarmersmarket.com

The new Santa Fe Farmers’ Market Shops are open during all market days: Saturday 8am – 1pm and Sunday 10am – 4pm, year round; Tuesday 8am1pm (May to November) 1607 Paseo de Peralta, www.santafefarmersmarket.com

The Railyard Artisan Market The Railyard Artisan Market features a wide variety of products, including handmade aprons, landscape paintings, herbal beauty products, jewelry, pottery, photography, glassware, and wearable fiber art. You will also find live music and a Café! Sundays 10am – 4pm 1607 Paseo de Peralta, www.artmarketsantafe.com

Second Street Brewery The Second Street brewery staff works hard to present a neighborhood brewpub that is welcoming to all local residents and visitors alike. Here you can enjoy a fine handcrafted ale or lager with a variety of eclectic pub fare—a place where truly everyone knows your name. 1814 Second St, 505-982-3030 1607 Paseo de Peralta, 505-989-3278, www.secondstreetbrewery.com

Zia Diner Serving upscale, down home comfort food, the Zia Diner, in business since 1986, serves updated renditions of diner classics—think Green ChilePinon Meatloaf—along with an eclectic menu of southwestern and international comfort food. This high-energy restaurant and bar prides itself on its professional and friendly service and exceptional food. The Zia uses grass-fed, additive-free beef, free-range and additive-free chicken and eggs, and local, organic, fair-trade Agapao Coffee. Open all day every day from 7am 326 S Guadalupe Street, 505-988-7008, www.ziadiner.com

A tavola non si invecchia.

(At the table with good friends you do not grow old.)

NEIGHBORHOOD TRATTORIA

Lunch M-F 11-2 · Dinner Nightly from 5 322 Garfield Street, Santa Fe 505.995.9595 · AndiamoSantaFe.com

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Breakfast - Lunch - Dinner - Drinks 326 S. Guadalupe • 988-7008 • www.ziadiner.com 21

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

memoir

Becoming a Culinary Tourist Story and Photo by Elizabeth Grant Thomas

Elizabeth Grant Thomas teaching a girl how to make chocolate chip cookies in Jaipur, India Standing in front of the cheap mirror in my Spartan hostel room, a bulky fluorescent light casting a sickly pallor over the scene, I confidently shimmy new hiking pants up my legs until they become stuck at the stump of my thighs. After a few swift tugs and a great gasp of inhalation I manage to wrangle on the pants, but the effect is that of a sausage bulging from its casing, the top button straining against its buttonhole, a wide band of flesh rippling over the waistband. I cannot comfortably bend over. A few months earlier, using a slow Internet connection at a friend’s home in Amman, Jordan, I had ordered these pants. They were to be hand-delivered by another friend in New Zealand, halfway through an eight-month trip around the world, where we are now convening to commence a five-day trek into the untrammeled beauty of Fjordland National Park. What I most look forward to is the dinner we’ve already planned at a cozy restaurant on the day we return: juicy steaks, local lamb, a big bottle of regional red wine. I check the tag, certain that REI has shipped the wrong size, and am surprised to discover that no error was made. There is no way that I can hike for thirty-three and a half miles in these pants, so I resign

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

myself to buying new ones at the only outdoor goods store in this tiny town. As I reluctantly pass an overpriced pair several sizes larger than I usually wear towards the cashier it finally hits me that I haven’t so much traveled as eaten my way across the globe. The trip started with a cup of hot chocolate, dark and viscous as motor oil, in a poky alley in Madrid, Spain. From there I fell in love with Portugal’s national pastry, pastel de nata, a light, cinnamon-scented custard baked in delicate puff pastry, its surface scarred like crème brulee and I ate a couple every day during our month-long stay. My husband and I coveted our invitation to stay with a friend’s parents in Istanbul, Turkey, which equated to nightly, multi-course feasts featuring traditional dishes. Stalwart vigilance about eating “safe” food quickly gave way to unabashed risk-taking, our curiosity about local cuisine superseding caution I miraculously survived the consumption of a perfumed, lukewarm rosewater milkshake from a questionable café outside the walls of the Taj Mahal. Australia finally tipped the scales, the last vestige of restraint evaporating with its stunning wine regions that offered fresh, local foods, beautiful wines, and a dazzling array of international cuisine. I am not ashamed to say that I ate a schnitzel as big as my head.

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Somewhere between the hot chocolate and the lamb I had gained weight, but I had also gained insight. Between the walking and the intestinal illness we would surely contract; everyone assured us before leaving home that we would return thin as rails. Nobody counted on the fact that we would spend as much time exploring the world on cramped public buses as on foot; that I would get sick only once during the trip, a quick bout of “Bali Belly;” and that food would become such an important part of experiencing the world. There were wild goose chases in search of an unusual local wine that wasn’t available for export, long walks in extreme weather to investigate a surreptitious restaurant tip, and days organized around the promise of a perfect meal. What little vocabulary I scavenged in a foreign tongue was often food-related. We spent as much time strolling through village markets as we did museums. Lured by any place that offered the potential for an interesting culinary experience, the Food and Drink section of our trusted Lonely Planet guidebook was usually the first page I thumbed to when considering a locale—we made a concession for Bhutan, where the mainstay is smoky red chiles and molten cheese served over toothsome red rice, often served three meals a day. While many of our friends on the hostel circuit cut corners by subsisting on canned soup and partaking of the meager breakfast offerings—dry, shrink-wrapped rolls, flimsy rectangles of bland white cheese—food was consistently our budget-buster. More than once the success of a day hinged on a meal, a good one turning a bad day around or a disappointing one sinking it. Somewhere between the hot chocolate and the lamb I had gained weight, but I had also gained insight. Here, on the road there were so many delights to be sampled, each meal opening a window into the culture. I was always interested in food, but it never was an experience, and I didn’t fully understand the depths of my passion until I unmoored myself from the familiar boundaries and borders of my life. At home I was a measured, disciplined person, someone who could predict the steadiness of her days and her pants size. I had ordered those pants a few months and a lifetime ago, certain of who I was and who I knew I would be by the time I reached New Zealand—tanned and lithe, worrying, if anything, that the pants would be too big. I had ordered those pants, that didn’t fit in more ways than one, in the midst of a life that had ceased to exist. There is no doubt I was due for that thirty-three-mile hike and a healthy dose of moderation—or at least some of that old-fashioned intestinal distress I was promised. But I understood now that, at my core, I was a culinary traveler, a person who experiences a new place— and, fundamentally, the world—through food. I would never be someone who carelessly wanders into a restaurant for lunch, or is content to subsist on Ramen noodles when there is so much to be discovered. I would try every pastry there was to sample, even if it meant I had to buy a new pair of pants along the way. Although it wasn’t how I planned it, in the end our trip wasn’t about seeing the world. It was about meeting real people in real places, eating their food, drinking their wine, and going to bed secure in the knowledge that, through this mysterious alchemy, we had connected, often across chasms of language, culture, class, religion, and politics. At the end of this adventure I went home to resume the life I had left behind. Maybe, if I was lucky, I’d write about it. But I would never eat the same way again. Elizabeth Grant Thomas is a nonfiction writer who contributes regularly to Edible Santa Fe. She can be found on Twitter @egrantthomas, or at her website, www.elizabethgrantthomas.com.

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

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PLANNING A TRIP? Let edible Magazines Show You the Way. Each region has its own flavor and, in over seventy areas across the nation, an edible magazine gives locals and tourists a taste. Be a savvy traveler and use edible magazine as your local food and drink guide.

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edible Road Trip

Aspen ∙ dallsa/ft. worth ∙ front range ∙ Phoenix ∙ san juan mountains By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

y a visit We decided to pa munities to our sister com travel for our first ever this issue. We hope nd many guide helps you fi od adfantastic local fo explore ventures as you o in the beyond New Mexic t. greater Southwes -edible Santa Fe

Edible Readers Albuquerque to Taos, NM

We decided to pay a visit to our sister communities for our first ever travel issue. In the Southwest, Edible Communities celebrates five other fabulous local food publications, in addition to edible Santa Fe. We asked publishers from Aspen, Dallas/Fort Worth, the Front Range, Phoenix, and the San Juan Mountains to give us guidance on how to experience and celebrate food in their areas.

stay the day—where could you go to get the flavor and a glimpse of the characters that make the place? Because we can’t celebrate all the champions of local food in this short travel guide, the recommendations for where to visit come primarily from the Local Hero Awards, a poll put to edible readers each fall. Words of wisdom come from the publishers themselves.

Edible Santa Fe tells the stories of local food from Albuquerque to Taos—it is hard to speak in generalities about the diverse cultures and cuisines of all of Northern New Mexico. In much the same way, these magazines cover broad areas with varied and abundant local food culture. We asked these publishers to give us some suggestions for what to see, experience, and taste if you could only

We hope this guide helps you find many fantastic local food adventures as you explore beyond New Mexico in the greater Southwest. We at edible Santa Fe relish the opportunity to experience new places with a great appetite for local food and its stories—perhaps this will inspire you to do the same!

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

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san juan mountains

Photos by Rick Scibelli While Southwest Colorado has an ever growing and dynamic local food scene, summer still remains the best time to come to experience local food. Durango, Telluride, Pagosa and Cortez boast vibrant farmers markets, world-class restaurants, as well as a full schedule of food-related festivals. Southwest Colorado is full of quaint mountain towns that attract not only world class bike racers, rock climbers, and skiers but world class chef's as well. Visitors to the area can be eating a locally sourced breakfast tamale from Linda's Local Food in Durango in the morning, an award winning peach in Cortez in the afternoon, and a Rocky Mountain elk chop for dinner at 221 South Oak in Telluride. The climate also sets the San Juan region apart—the mountains can go from a beautiful sunny morning to an intense thunderstorm before noon—though unpredictable, it can be dramatic and breath-takingly beautiful.

Eat Durango: Cyprus Café, www.cypruscafe.com; Linda's Local Food, www.lindaslocalfoodcafe.com; Zia Taqueria, www.ziataqueria.com; Cosmo, www.cosmodurango.com.

in Ouray where "Mr. Grumpy Pant's" beer selection changes daily (it is a nano-brewery...beer is brewed literally one barrel at a time.) Or visit the breweries listed above!

Shop No doubt you should stop at Kristopher's Culinaire in Ouray, at the foot of Red Mountain Pass. For the foodie, it is gadget nirvana.

Artisans If you visit Ska Brewery in Durango you can watch the beer coming off the line. If you go to Telluride Brewery, www.telluridebrewingco.com, in Telluride, there is nothing separating you from the action. You drink where they make the beer. Or you could go to James Ranch, www.jamesranch.net, in Durango where you can eat other-worldly hamburgers while sitting on the lawn overlooking the ranch where the cows are grazing (the very cows your hamburger are made from.) The cheese on your hamburger? It is being made in the building over your left shoulder where you can see the cows being milked.

Innovators

Ouray: The Ouray Brewery, www.ouraybrewery.com; Mouses Chocolates, www.mousechocolates.com.

The Garden Project of Southwest Colorado, www.thegardenprojectswcolorado.org, has been in service to its neighbors since 1998, getting thousands of students and community members engaged in school and community gardens.

Ridgway: Colorado Boy, www.coloradoboy.com. Telluride: La Cocina De Luz; 221 South Oak, www.221southoak.com; Over the Moon; Cosmo, www.cosmotelluride.com.

Heart & Soul

Pagosa Springs: Pagosa Brewing, www.pagosabrewing.com.

A project of Healthy Community Food Systems, The Mesa Verde Guide offers an easy-to-use-guide to an array of local sustainable food and fiber producers—www.mesaverdefood.org.

Drink

Words of Wisdom

Southwest Colorado has been coined by some as the Napa Valley of beer. Have a Mexican Logger at Ska, www.skabrewing.com, in Durango. Have an IPA at the Ourayle House, www.ouraylehouse.com,

If you want to look like a local and blend in, bring your boots. And don't polish them.

Cortez: The Farm Bistro, www.sevenmeadowsfarm.com.

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

aspen

Photos by Jeremy Swanson Being at an altitude of 7,908 feet above sea level there is no significant food production in the City of Aspen so it depends on food producers from the valley and all over Western Colorado to supply its foodshed. The abundance of local food is at its peak during summer—and so are Aspen’s activities! While Aspen is world-renowned for its winters; skiing, celebrities, parties, and glitz, it actually has more visitors during the summer, as superb weather and more driver-friendly access appeal to a wide variety of visitors. The summer season begins in June and ends in September. Outdoor activities include hiking, biking, fishing and rafting, the Food & Wine Classic, Aspen Music Festival & School, and The Aspen Institute’s cultural programs, which attract visitors steadily throughout the summer. Aspen’s food scene is unique in that it offers world-class restaurants in a casual, small town atmosphere. Locals and visitors alike expect highquality food from its restaurants and the chefs are delivering. Many work directly with area farms and others depend on the handful of local food delivery businesses that have cropped up in recent years— either way Aspen is seeing more local food on menus now, than since the first half of the 1900s.

Eat

Aspen Emporium & Flying Circus; The Cheese Shop, www.aspencheeseshop.com; or Peach’s.

Artisans Aspen Brewing Company, www.aspenbrewingcompany.com, just outside of the town of Aspen; and Avalanche Cheese Company’s creamery in Basalt, www.avalanchecheese.com, about twenty miles from Aspen.

Innovators Aspen T.R.E.E.’s farmyard at Cozy Point Ranch, www.cozypointranch.com, just outside of Aspen. Aspen Center for Environmental Studies, www.aspennature.org, location at Rock Bottom Ranch in Basalt, Central Rocky Mountain Permaculture Institute, www.crmpi.org, in Basalt and Sustainable Settings, www. sustainablesettings.org, in Carbondale are all shining examples of learning centers with working sustainable food systems in place.

Info Edible Aspen of course! www.edibleaspen.com; Colorado Department of Agriculture lists statewide resources at www.colorado.gov/ag; and Colorado wineries can be found at www.coloradowine.com.

For breakfast or lunch: Peach’s, www.peachscornercafe.com; Victoria’s, www.aspenespressobar.com; Ajax Tavern, www.ajaxtavern.com.

Heart & Soul

For dinner: Cache Cache, www.cachecache.com; Rustique, www.rustiquebistro.com; Platos, www.platosaspen.com; Element 47, www.element47aspen.com.

The Aspen Saturday Market—the not-to-be-missed social scene and heart and soul of the upcoming week’s cuisine to be prepared in restaurants and home kitchens. The combination of farmers, ranchers, artisans, chefs, locals, and visitors makes for a vibrant convergence in downtown Aspen.

Drink

Words of Wisdom

Jimmy’s, www.jimmysaspen.com, for a selection of over a hundred tequilas and mescals; Justice Snow’s, www.justicesnows.com, for the renaissance of craft cocktail culture; The Little Nell, www.thelittlenell.com for well spirits that are all Colorado produced.

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

Shop

Be sure to try Colorado beef, elk, or lamb, drink lots of water, and carefully pace alcohol consumption, as at Aspen’s altitude you’ll feel the effects faster.

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front range

Photos by Carole Topalian Any time of year you can find locally sourced ingredients in the Front Range, but for abundance and variety, the best time to visit is in late summer and early fall. The region swells with farmers’ bounty—fresh fruit, veggies, meat, dairy products, and grains. A mecca of the microbrew, visit this area of Colorado to bask in long summer evenings with a cold beer or cocktail on the patio of the numerous breweries, fine dining establishments, hippie cafes, and other culinary treasures. The Front Range, running along the eastside of the Rockies in Colorado from Pueblo to Fort Collins, has a wealth of local food offerings. High elevation and a short growing season have not impeded the growth of one of the most active and robust local food communities in the country. Boulder, a hub of the organic and natural foods movements, as well as a fierce localism, has laid the groundwork for many communities looking to practice sustainability at a local level. This type of awareness and activism pervades the culture throughout the region—locals are as engaged in local politics as they are in outdoor recreation!

Eat Manitou Springs: Adam’s Mountain Café, www.adamsmountain.com. Boulder: The Kitchen, thekitchencommunity.com; Arabesque, www.arabesqueboulder.com; Frasca, www.frascafoodandwine.com; Dushanbe Teahouse, www.boulderteahouse.com. Fort Collins: The Choice Butcher Shop, www.choicecitybutcher.com. Loveland: Next Door, www.nextdoorloveland.com.

MMLocal, www.mmlocalfoods.com, adding value to fresh produce by pickling and canning can be found.

Innovators At Haystack Mountain Goat Dairy, www.haystackgoatcheese.com, you can take a creamery tour, or you can find them at local farmers markets.

Info Edible Front Range, www.ediblefrontrange.com, can be found on the stands at local dining establishments and natural foods grocery stores. Get up to minute news from their Facebook page @EdibleFrontRangeMagazine.

Heart & Soul Visiting a farmers market is always a great way to get a read on the local food scene. All along the Front Range you can find amazing markets, www.boulderfarmers.com, www.fortcollinsfm.com, www.denverfarmersmarket.com. The Brown Palace, www.brownpalace.com, now has a Bee Royalty Initiative, which involves keeping happy pollinators on the roof of the hotel! Growing Gardens cultivates urban agriculture in Boulder, www.growinggardens.org, offering a number of one-day adult and kids classes all year long.

Drink

Produce for Pantries connects food pantries with school, community, and home gardens, on Facebook @produceforpantries.

Fort Collins: Odell Brewing Company, www.odellbrewing.com; New Belgium Brewing Company, www.newbelguim.com; Equinox Brewing, www.equinoxbrewing.com. Find a Leopold Bros. tasting in Denver, www.leopoldbros.com.

Words of Wisdom Local food offerings and experiences in the Front Range are as vast and provocative as the landscape. With so many choices and huge diversity of things to see and experience, visiting all this area has to offer would be impossible in one short trip. Pick a city; bring a bike, a hungry belly, and enjoy a small sample of all the Front Range.

Shop Denver: Chocolate Crisis Center, www.chocolatecrisiscenter.com. Boulder: Pearl Street offers up twelve blocks of local shops and dining, www.boulderdowntown.com.

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Artisans

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

phoenix

The best time to visit Phoenix is late winter and early spring when you can sample the diversity of seasonal citrus in artisan cocktails, candied, or simply fresh, straight from the tree. Phoenix culinary culture embraces a long history of indigenous foods like tepary beans, nopalitos, cholla buds, and mesquite flour. The growth in recent decades has brought diversity and talent to the restaurant kitchens in the area—with a little looking, you’re bound to find both the exotic and familiar, all based on locally sourced ingredients. Warm weather and a winter growing season mean Phoenix hosts a plethora of outdoor food festivals and tastings from October to May when there’s something food-related going on almost every day. Look for the Devoured Culinary Festival in March and a very special art and food event, The Feast on the Street, in April.

Eat

Doing a little cooking during your stay? Visit The Meat Shop, www.themeatshopaz.com. Or, for fine sausage, try Schreiner’s Sausage, www.schreinerssausage.com. Also, consider tracking down some Black Mesa Ranch goat cheese or chocolates at Whole Foods or the Public Market, www.blackmesaranch.com.

Innovators Kitchen on the Street, turning hunger into hope, one kid at a time, www.kitchenonthestreet.org. Also seek out the Valley Permaculture Alliance, www.phoenixpermaculture.org, for great workshops and events.

Info In addition to the edible Phoenix, www.ediblephoenix.com, being a great resource, the Good Food Finder www.goodfoodfinder.com is a great place to learn more about local food in the area.

FnB Restaurant, www.fnbrestaurant.com; Café at MIM, www.themim.org/cafe (spend a little time touring the museum); or just any of the locally-owned or local-supporting restaurants in the edible Phoenix Eat Local Guide.

Heart & Soul

Drink

Meet the locals who make it all happen at the area’s farmers markets. In particular look for Desert Roots Farm, a thirty-three acre CSA in Queen Creek, Arizona, www.desertrootsfarm.com; Dave Jordan, the egg man of Two Wash Ranch; Maya’s Farm, www.mayasfarm.com; or RhibaFarms, www.rhibafarms.com.

For a great cup of coffee in a small town atmosphere visit Bergies in Gilbert, www.bergiescoffee.com. For a hand-crafted soda, The Cider Mill, www.cidermillmarket.com. For a brew, try Four Peaks or the SanTan Brewing Company, www.santanbrewing.com.

Words of Wisdom

Shop

Good Mexican food abounds—just ask around for a favorite near you. Although it’s sometimes controversial, fry bread is a must try and the James Beard recognized Fry Bread House is the place to visit. And your trip won’t be complete unless you sample a Nogales Hot Dog – don’t think about the mix of ingredients (mayo on a hot dog?) just give it a try.

Phoenix Public Market, an open-air market hosts over a hundred local food and arts vendors—open Wednesday evenings and Saturday mornings, with Food Truck Fridays from 11:30am to 1pm, www.foodconnect.org/phxmarket. Four generations of candy makers offer a huge variety of old-time chocolates and other sweets at Cerreta Candy Company in Glendale where you can take a tour of the factory, www.cerreta.com.

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

Artisans

Last Call owner Luis Valdevinos

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dallas/fort worth

Photos by Carole Topalian The best time to visit North Texas is late spring into early summer before the searing heat sets in. That’s when the first round of summer berries, peaches, tomatoes and squash are being harvested. Also late fall—when temperatures are mild, and farmers markets are plentiful again after the summer swelter subsides.

DALLAS Downtown Dallas is undergoing a renaissance as urban dwellers and businesses revitalize the historic center and its peripheries. In the midst of the Downtown Arts District, the new Klyde Warren Park is a great place to absorb the city.

With over six and a half million people, North Texas spreads out from its two hubs, Fort Worth and Dallas—its expansiveness and rich history set it apart both geographically, and in regards to its local food culture. These cities are sisters with very different temperaments. Fort Worth is a laid-back, boots and jeans kind of gal who embraces her Western roots. Thirty miles to the east, high-heeled Dallas has an adventuresome palate that craves culinary diversity. There are over forty farmers markets in the North Texas region.

South of the Trinity River, the retro chic Bishop Arts District and adjacent areas have become Dallas’s hippest culinary destinations. Home of Dude, Sweet Chocolate (for hand-crafted chocolates) and Bolsa Mercado (for lunch and local food products); chef-driven restaurants—Boulevardier, Lucia, Smoke, Bolsa, Driftwood; the Belmont Bar at the Belmont Hotel. Many small shops line the pedestrian-friendly streets of Bishop Arts.

Eat

Near Downtown: Stampede 66, www.stampede66.com; Meso Maya, www.mesomaya.com. In & near the Bishop Arts District: Boulevardier, www.dallasboulevardier.com; Bolsa, www.bolsadallas.com; Smoke (great Sunday brunch!) www.smokerestaurant.com.

FORT WORTH Legendary Fort Worth starts in Downtown’s Sundance Square, named for a frequent visitor, the Sundance Kid. To the west of downtown, the Cultural District is home to five acclaimed museums. North on Main Street are the famed Stockyards.

Near Southern Methodist University: Central 214 at Hotel Palomar, www.hotelpalomar-dallas.com. Oak Lawn Area: Parigi, www.parigidallas.com.

Downtown: Grace, www.gracefortworth.com; Reata, www.reata.net

The Design District: FT33, www.ft33dallas.com.

Cultural District: Café Modern, www.themodern.org/cafe.

Drink

Fairmount/Hospital District: Ellerbe Fine Foods, www.ellerbefinefoods.com.

A drink with a view is recommended. South of the Trinity: The Belmont Bar, www.belmontdallas.com

Near the Stockyards: Lonesome Dove Western Bistro, www.lonesomedovebistro.com; Joe T. Garcia’s, www.joets.com.

Downtown Dallas: Five Sixty by Wolfgang Puck, www.wolfgangpuck.com

South of downtown: Bonnell’s Fine Texas Cuisine, www.bonnellstexas.com.

For seasonal cocktails with local spirits: Central 214 at Hotel Palomar; Bolsa.

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

C LASSIC S ANTA F E & S PANISH R EVIVAL S TYLES

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dallas/fort worth continued Shop In Dallas: Bolsa Mercado, www.bolsadallas.com/bolsa-mercado; Celebration Market, www.celebrationrestaurant.com/market.

Visit a local farmers market (see www.edibledfw.com for listings) or one of many urban community gardens, www.gardendallas.org.

In McKinney: Patina Green Home and Market, www.patinagreenhomeandmarket.com.

Info A great resource is www.edibledfw.com—access four years of edible Dallas & Fort Worth magazines. A companion source, the new edible Dallas & Fort Worth: The Cookbook offers a hundred recipes from local chefs, food artisans, and growers, and ten profiles of movers and shakers in the North Texas food scene.

In Fort Worth: Ellerbe Fine Foods, www.ellerbefinefoods.com.

Artisans Local breweries including Rahr & Sons Brewing Company, www.rahrbrewing.com, in Fort Worth, and Deep Ellum Brewing Company, www.deepellumbrewing.com in Dallas. North Texas is also host to a number of great wineries—www.gotexanwine.org.

Words of Wisdom A traveler with one day needs to choose which North Texas experience she wants: cosmopolitan Dallas or western Fort Worth. Hopefully, she will decide to stay an extra day or two and try both. Gas up the convertible—there’s a lot to discover in the wide-open spaces of the DFW Metroplex.

Innovators WE Over Me Farm at Paul Quinn College: Paul Quinn College transformed its football field into two acres of farmland to bring fresh produce to an area of Dallas that was in dire need of healthy food alternatives, www.weovermefarm.com.

Photo by Carole Topalian

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

edible Santa Fe 路 Spring 2013

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Casa Gallina By Kate Manchester ∙ Photos by Stephanie Cameron

With all the options for lodging in Taos, it wasn’t until a visitor from Los Angeles mentioned Casa Gallina that I discovered this hidden gem. My first reaction when I opened the door to the Barred Rock Casita at Casa Gallina was to call my husband and tell him to forget buying a vacation property—I had found it, and I was home. Walking into the space for the first time and seeing the bright reds and blues of the comfortable furniture, the fanciful array of local artwork and Mexican textiles made me feel like I had stumbled upon the best kept secret in New Mexico. Looking around I could hardly believe my good fortune, and suddenly understood why Richard Spera, owner of Casa Gallina, had insisted on a minimum stay of two nights. Over the phone Richard had promised me that once we were there, we wouldn’t want to leave. Awaiting us on the butcher block island in the center of the room was a thoughtful selection of tasty bites; a soft local goat cheese with sun-dried tomatoes doused in fragrant olive oil, a bowl of green olives

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and herbs, some crisp rice crackers, a few misshapen apples, and a much needed glass pitcher of cool water. Glancing around the small, bright kitchen I spied a bowl of speckled blue and brown eggs still warm from the chickens clucking just outside our windows. In the refrigerator was a container of organic half and half, freshly ground fair trade coffee, and some fresh butter. A knock on the door revealed a delightfully energetic—and handsome—Richard, our attentive host and the creative spirit behind Casa Gallina. Richard came to Taos twelve years ago from New York City, and like many who have fallen under the spell of Taos, he knew he was home. A refugee from New York’s high-powered, high-pressure restaurant world, Richard attended the Cornell Restaurant School and was director of operations for a large restaurant group. Leaving the restaurant world was easy, but hospitality is in his blood. Cultivating and creating an atmosphere of comfort and beauty for people is clearly what he does best—Casa Gallina is the manifestation.

Cameron edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013 35Blue Corn Pancakes, Photo by Stephanie

Your get-away nest is just a click-away. www.casagallina.net

575-758-2306

edible Santa Fe 路 Spring 2013

Taos, NM

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Richard has a gift for transforming spaces—he plants roots. He loves planting trees and watching them grow; it feels like a miracle to him. Creating Casa Gallina has been a gradual and largely organic process, unfolding and developing over the last ten years. Much of the work he has done himself, everything from gutting interiors to re-roofing to landscaping. Starting with one property with two casitas, Richard lived in one and fixed up the second. Three years later he bought the property next door and renovated two more casitas. Blessed with an eye for color and detail, Richard has infused the property with comfortable, playful panache. The interiors and exterior of the property are lovingly and beautifully appointed with vibrant textiles, local antique and artisan furniture, paintings, and local folk art. Richard loves art and proudly boasts that he has never hung a piece that didn’t come from an artist he knew personally. The art is all for sale—people rarely buy but love being surrounded by it. Richard advises, “There are no price tags, but if you see something you love, ask.” The work of two local artists in particular are featured prominently around the property: a variety of wood, stone and alabaster carved statues six-inches to twelve-feet tall by artist Zachary Powell; and the wildly-popular-with-guests bird masks and sculptures by Dwayne O'Hagan.

The nearby Rio Grande Gorge is known as one of the world’s great avian migratory routes; it defines Northern New Mexico as a wildlife haven. Inasmuch as Richard created a paradise for his guests, his attention to detail and welcoming habitat extend to nature as well. A visit to Casa Gallina wouldn’t be complete without a trip to the gazebo in the backyard. An elevated deck, covered with a wild array of sunflowers, houses a hammock and overlooks the iconic red reeds that populate the wetlands of Northern New Mexico. This little spit of green earth is a miraculous stopping-off point for a variety of migratory birds, making the gazebo a private bird watching paradise and a perfect spot to enjoy a quiet cup of morning coffee or a late afternoon glass of wine.

During our visit Richard planted seeds on the day of the new moon, and talked about his vision for the property. “I saw the empty canvas and I wanted to create an oasis of home, I wanted it to feel like the best home you’ve ever been in. And I knew I didn’t want to just live next door to someone, I wanted people to come and go.” He relies upon local artisans, farmers and businesses to furnish his spaces, and he chooses fair trade, local, and organic products to stock the larder. He uses only organic or earth friendly cleaners, and participates in the Kit Carson Electric Cooperative Green Program; he has purchased pollution-free wind-energy credits to offset his energy usage at Casa Gallina. He recycles everything, and encourages guests to do the same. While we were there we fed our table scraps to the chickens, who in turn blessed us with fresh eggs each day. People’s reactions are the things that keep propelling Richard forward. “I get so much positive feedback I know that this is my right livelihood.”

We opted to stock our fridge with food from nearby Cid’s Market and sat in the backyard of our casita for lively conversation over breakfast, and later, long after a sunset dinner, marveled at the number of stars visible in the clear night sky. And Richard was right— when it came time to leave we didn’t want to. Don’t wait too long to make reservations, Casa Gallina has a loyal and dedicated following who have fallen under its spell, and like us, can’t wait to return.

Each guesthouse features a private garden courtyard for relaxing or dining, queen-sized beds with organic bedding and goose down comforters, fully equipped kitchens, fireplace or wood stove, DSL connection and wireless laptop, DVD player, cable television and stereo. Skiing, snowboarding, hiking, biking, shopping, galleries, restaurants and museums are just minutes away, but my guess is you won’t miss any of them. You won’t be sorry if you choose to stay put at Casa Gallina instead.

Casa Gallina 609 Callejon, Taos; 575-758-2306, www.casagallin.net Kate Manchester is the former publisher of edible Santa Fe; she writes about food, travel and gardens.

Just a mile from the plaza, the four adobe casitas that make up Casa Gallina sit on three pastoral, green acres, bordered on each side by the Rio Pueblo and Rio Fernando. An acequia runs through the middle of the property—this area was the agricultural belt of Taos and the soil is fertile, rich and black. Richard flood irrigates the property in early spring and summer, and drip irrigation waters the surrounding trees, vegetable gardens, and flower and herb beds that frame the property. Once the beds are established, he lets them go. The vegetable gardens grow kale, spinach, carrots, lettuces, beets, squashes, and sugar snap peas. Close by raspberries and a strawberry patch abound, and herb beds grow throughout the patios and courtyards. Richard encourages guests to forage for vegetables and herbs to complement the daily supply of fresh eggs from the twenty happy chickens tended lovingly in Richard’s handsome backyard coop.

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

edible Santa Fe 路 Spring 2013

Kiva Pool at Ojo Caliente, Photo@byediblesantafe.com Julien McRoberts subscribe

Ojo Caliente By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

On a moonless New Mexico night, stars, like cacophony, ring out in the night sky with articulate constellations and a noisy band of Milky Way. Floating in mineral springs at Ojo Caliente makes this concert of galactic majesty a transcendent experience. Rock, water, body, air, sky, and the infinitude of the universe, in this moment, resonate a kind of natural perfection it’s easy to forget in day-to-day city life—it is both one of the finest and most authentic experiences Northern New Mexico has to offer. I visited Ojo Caliente for the first time in February. I am a lover of public baths, and a skeptic when it comes to spas—so I tried to approach the visit with little expectation. I had heard a number of stories about the place from friends who visited recently, and others who have been visiting for over forty years. Having soaked at natural hot springs and historic bathhouses in the state and worked at a spa, I felt prepared to be both open and critical about what I might experience. The plan was to arrive Friday afternoon and leave late in the morning on Saturday—assuming this would be more than enough time to sample all of what the nearly 150-year-old spa had to offer. Early spring wind, cold temperatures, and gloomy skies greeted my arrival, and I hoped maybe it would mean snow. After checking in and getting a quick tour, it was time to soak. Ojo immediately sets itself apart from other spas because of the unique nature of its baths; they are actually filled from ancient hot springs. With mineral content derived from the volcanic rock they pass through, four distinct springs—Lithia, Iron, Soda and Arsenic—burble up through artesian wells, then are pumped into ten pools throughout the spa. For the first hour of my stay I made my way from the steamy Soda pools enclosed in an old-fashioned atrium, to the Iron pool butted up against a majestic cliff face, to the open-air, cascading Arsenic pool, unwinding a little more at each stop.

February is a slow month at Ojo—most visitors come between August and November—still dozens of people meandered about in bathing suits, robes, and towels. When I arrived, I noticed a young mom, clearly a local, and her daughter parked in large beach towels in the lobby munching on a snack from a cooler. While this scene might be off-putting to some spa-goers, I actually appreciated the place a little more as a result. Ojo manages to do something that few spas can—it is accessible to the locals who have always come to cleanse, relax, and heal themselves in the springs, and with recent renovations, it now offers a luxury experience for those who can afford one. Ojo offers discount rates to their neighbors—anyone who lives in the county soaks at half-price, and tribal elders use the facilities free of charge. A staff person tells me the wrestlers from the local high school are some of his favorite visitors—the coach mandates a weekly soak during the season. After my soak, I headed off for an Earth Keepers Hot Stone Massage, one of almost a dozen distinct spa treatments offered at Ojo. Jeannine Mallory, Ojo’s Spa and Yoga Program Director, has made it her focus to develop unique spa treatments, make sure her staff of over forty therapists knows the ins and outs of each, and build a strong sense of camaraderie and community amongst the staff she trains and manages. After my treatment, I talked to my therapist Doug about working at Ojo. Doug, a transplant of seven years to Taos, has worked as a massage therapist and yoga instructor at Ojo for the past five. He says the atmosphere and energy change when you get in the vicinity of the springs—this change brings on quietness in both staff and visitors. Staff members know they work someplace special and sacred, and many who work there have done so for a long time. Doug tells me there is a saying in Taos that the mountain accepts or rejects you—he thinks the springs work in a similar way when it comes to those who

n HeffernaMarcello's by Ryan , Photoand Chefs Iron RyanPool Hallum Jeff Walker,

Chef Myles Lucero, Savoy

Photo by Julien McR oberts

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

Dip ‘n Dine Experience The Artesian Restaurant Wine Bar & Lounge

Your palette will be rejuvenated too!

Come to Ojo and soak your bones in our legendary, sulfur-free hot springs. Relax wtih a rejuvenating massage, enjoy a delicious meal, and cozy up for the night!

505.583.2233

ojospa.com

ojocaliente

Less than an hour north of Santa Fe Top 10 Mineral Springs Spas in the World - SpaFinder

natural and organic garden supplies

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

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steward the baths. Staff and owners alike see themselves as caretakers of an ancient and curative space that elicits special attention, pride, and respect. The Scotts, owners of Ojo, have taken special care to make the transition to new buildings, expanded services, and more business a slow and progressive one. Natives of Northern New Mexico, and long-time patrons of the springs, the Scotts preserve existing structures and historic fabric. Over the last decade they have expanded the facilities to include a number of new buildings for guests and staff. The Scotts demonstrate a commitment to place, authenticity, and good ecological stewardship—new structures feature a number of energy efficient and locally-sourced building materials, radiant floor heating fed by recycled water from the springs that use about ten percent of the energy of conventional heating systems, and new on-site waste water treatment facilities, just to name a few. After my massage and a little down time, I head to The Artesian, the restaurant at Ojo, entering the dining area on the west end of the long and spacious porch along the south side of the original lodge. Layers of history adorn the walls and tastefully show themselves in the décor—literally, newspaper pages from the early 1900s originally used as insulation are framed and hang behind the bar. At first glance the menu reads a little like bar food with a few unusual entrees. On closer inspection, it reveals a number of surprises— the chile fries are actually potato crusted Poblano chiles served with chile vinegar, the pot stickers feature black beans and delicious goat cheese crema, and the chile relleno dinner comes with an unusual and delectable quinoa tamale. The Ojo sommelier visits my table to make suggestions about what to have with the roast duck I order, also at his recommendation. The restaurant offers a carefully selected, and very

affordable beer, wine, and sake menu, including a number of clever and delicious wine and sake cocktails. Like the spa, the Artesian manages to do something unusual in successfully catering to several, seemingly contradictory, tastes. The restaurant offers fare for hungry skiers and adventurers in search of hearty food, and a number of delicious raw, vegetarian, vegan, and wheat-free options to spa goers desiring simple and clean food, all without overcrowding the menu or overwhelming the diner. Chatting again with Jeannine, I learn that in the spring the restaurant will begin to draw from the resources of its own garden, and from the farms of local growers, with the goal of developing seasonal menus to accommodate the types of ingredients produced in the area. The spa prides itself on local character, offering high quality crafts from Northern New Mexico artists and body products featuring wild-crafted ingredients from the area in the gift shop. While the Scotts have made significant changes to Ojo to make it a world class spa, they also have managed to retain much of the nuance of a funky Northern New Mexican bathhouse—the unusual combination of these makes for a truly unique and authentic experience when you visit. A long history of serving area residents, the consequent sense of place created through generations and local cultures, and the distinctive geologic and natural features of the landscape all contribute to the magic of Ojo, and the Scotts embrace and celebrate these resources. They manage to create a one-of-a-kind spa experience through a deep commitment to the history, ecology, and character of the place. Ojo Caliente 50 Los Banos Drive, Ojo Caliente; 505-583-2233, www.ojospa.com

Photos by Stephanie Cameron

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

The Heart of New Mexico agritourism

By Alice Loy and Selena Marroquin

Toni Boyd Broaddus, Photo by Selena Marroquin In New Mexico, our culture is one of our most unique assets and our history is intertwined with the story of the land. Global Center for Cultural Entrepreneurship (GCCE) is working with food and fiber farmers and producers in the exploding agritourism marketplace. In 2010 nearly a billion dollars were spent in agritourism around the world. The Northern New Mexico Cultural Corridor is thick with delightful experiences for foodies, wine lovers, fiber fanatics, and adventurous souls. Did you know you can learn beekeeping, dye your own wool, and visit over five hundred iris varieties—all in one weekend? Here in New Mexico you can discover hidden gems that delight in having visitors to the farm, the ranch, or the cooking school.

farms, eat local, and share your stories with us as we support our regional agritourism sites.

Over the next year we are partnering with edible Santa Fe to invite readers to explore food and farm traditions of our state with the people who are keeping these traditions alive and thriving. Visit our

GCCE 341 East Alameda Street, Santa Fe; 505-263-5180, www.culturalentrepreneur.org

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

Across the globe, cultural entrepreneurs are building cultural vibrancy and economic opportunity. Artists, filmmakers, architects, and food artisans are cultural entrepreneurs. These innovators build the enterprises that bring to life our cultural traditions and keep alive the cultural diversity we appreciate. The mission of the GCCE is to support cultural entrepreneurs as they create and expand their businesses. A nonprofit organization, our programs include a Fellowship for Cultural Entrepreneurs, training and mentoring programs, and market development initiatives.

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Tierra Wools About fifteen miles south of Chama, in the quiet village of Los Ojos, is a century old mercantile building that today is the home of Tierra Wools. A bell at the door announces the arrival of visitors, the vibrant showroom offers beautiful hand-woven creations on every wall, and a group of women sitting around the woodstove share stories. These women are a few of the weavers who carry on the Rio Grande dying and weaving traditions that have been passed down through generations of New Mexicans. Molly B. Manzanares, a native to the area and a master spinner and weaver, willingly explains the weaving process: the delivery of the organically raised wool; the spinning of the yarn; the natural dyeing performed by an expert dye artisan; the creation of the Rio Grande blankets in the looms. The colors, textures, and even smells of the natural dye are so unique that visitors and students from all over the world travel to Tierra Wools to learn more about these ancient traditions. For those particularly interested, they even offer various classes throughout the year on spinning, dyeing and weaving. In 2013 Tierra Wools celebrates its thirtieth anniversary—this grassroots project has kept to its mission of buying local wool, training and hiring local people, and carrying on the Rio Grande weaving tradition. Visitors can peruse the wide selection of one-of-a-kind locally made tapestries, wool yarn, and apparel. Mark your calendar for the last Saturday in April for the Tierra Wools Spring Harvest Festival and get a glimpse into the rich and wonderful weaving traditions of Northern New Mexico. Tierra Wools 91 Main Street, Los Ojos; 575-588-7231, www.handweavers.com

Hubbell Demonstration Farm and Living History Museum

Workshop at the Hubbell Demonstration Farm Frances Ray smiles as she recalls May Hubbell folding down the window to place lunch trays out for the farm workers. She points to a low window facing the courtyard and says, “That’s the one. This was the kitchen back then. In those days my grandma would come over and she and May would have tea together.” Frances is nearing eighty years old; she is one of the living treasures of Albuquerque’s historic South Valley. “I remember during the war we would load buckets of apples from our orchard into the back of the truck and head into town. We would make about twenty-five cents and my father would save those pennies for us to buy school supplies.” Frances’ family has lived in the village of Pajarito, a tiny hamlet in the South Valley, for generations. Her grandmother, Francesquita Barboa, lived across from the Hubbell House during the early 1900s when it was a thriving center of commerce along the remnants of the Camino Real. Built in the 1840s, the Hubbell House is widely regarded as one the state’s finest historical landmarks and was listed on the State Register of Historical Properties in 1976. Today the nonprofit Hubbell House Alliance is working to bring the history and traditions of Pajarito back to life. Offering workshops on topics as wide-ranging as beekeeping, irrigation, tree pruning, and raising backyard chickens, the Hubbell House is at the forefront of a revitalization effort promising to bring to life the agricultural heritage of Albuquerque. The Alliance will formally open August 10 as the Hubbell House and Demonstration Farm. If you come to the Grand Opening, you might be lucky enough to sample the tasty morsels Frances Ray learned to make in her grandmother’s kitchen.

Toni Boyd Broaddus, Photo by Selena Marroquin

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Hubbell Demonstration Farm and Living History Museum 6029 Isleta Boulevard SW, Albuquerque; 505-244-0507, www.hubbellhousealliance.org

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

Estrella del Norte Vineyard

Photos by Alice Loy Winding my way along the cottonwood-lined rural road toward Nambe, I am struck by the difference a little bit of water can make in a dry land. The Franciscan priests who came with the Catholic Church in the 1600s understood this difference. They settled and planted orchards and row crops along the fertile valleys of the Rio Grande and other New Mexico rivers. The Spanish Crown had forbidden the growing of wine grapes in the New World to protect their vast exports of wine, upon which the entire Spanish economy had become dependent. But in 1629 a few daring monks smuggled vines out of Spain, and by the 1800s vineyards proliferated along the slopes of the Rio Grande watershed. Today, the Mission Grapes as they were and are called, are still grown in New Mexico, and the tradition of winemaking flourishes. Estrella del Norte Vineyard is a little green paradise tucked into a low hillside in Nambé. Turning into the property, I am greeted by grape vines trellised alongside the driveway. A bright orange Kubota tractor covered in mud tells me this is a working farm; the smell of plowed earth and spring waft through the vines. Eileen Reinders and her husband Richard moved back to New Mexico from Colorado, leaving busy corporate lives to become vintners, but are now busier than they ever were in white-collar jobs. Estrella del Norte has won more than twenty awards for their wines in the past five years. Wine sales—including Pinot Noir, Founders Blend, and others—nearly double each year. I ask Eileen which wine I should taste. She grins and asks if I like red chile. I laugh back, “Of course! I’m a New Mexican, aren’t I?!” She passes me a taste of their unique Holy Molé blend. As I savor lingering notes of red chile, almond, and chocolate, I imagine those Franciscan monks smuggling vines across the Atlantic in their thick brown robes—I am so grateful they did.

From the kitchen of Eileen Reinders, Estrella del Norte Vineyard 1 cup pitted dates, chopped  1 cup water 1 teaspoon baking soda  1 1/4 cup almond flour  3/4 teaspoon baking powder  1/2 cup butter, softened  1/2 cup sugar  1 egg  1 teaspoon vanilla  1 pear, chopped  1/2 cup walnuts, chopped Preheat oven to 350° F. Grease a 9 by 12-inch baking pan and line bottom with parchment paper. Chop dates. In a small saucepan bring dates and one cup water to a boil, then remove from heat. Stir in baking soda—mixture will foam—and set aside. In a small bowl, stir together almond flour and baking powder and set aside. In a large bowl, beat butter, sugar, egg, and vanilla with an electric mixer until combined. Slowly add the date and water mixture until combined. Add almond flour mixture and stir just until combined. Fold in pear and walnuts. Spread mixture evenly into parchmentlined baking pan. Bake 45 to 50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool about 5 minutes, then run a sharp knife around the edge and invert cake onto a serving platter and remove parchment paper. Cake can be served with a small dollop of whipped cream or scoop of ice cream, and should be enjoyed with a glass of Luna Pera Mango Tango Especial.

For more Agritourim destinations, log on to: Photo by Stephanie Cameron www.ediblesantafe.com/agritourism

Estrella del Norte Vineyard 106 North Shining Sun, Santa Fe; 505-455-2826, www.estrelladelnortevineyard.com

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

Date & Pear Lumberjack Cake

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Molly’s Lamb Green Chile Stew From the kitchen of Molly B. Manzanares, Tierra Wools Serves 2 to 4 1 pound shepherd’s lamb stew meat 1 tablespoon oil 1 tablespoon flour 1/2 medium onion, chopped 2 – 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1/4 to 1/2 cup chopped green chile 3 cups water 2 chicken bouillon cubes 1 large tomato, chopped 1 or 2 potatoes, if desired Lightly brown the lamb in the oil. Add flour to coat meat. Add the rest of ingredients and simmer for at least an hour. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.

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Chile Rellenos Hors d'oeuvres From the kitchen of Francesquita Barboa, Hubbell House Makes 4 dozen 1 cup shortening 3 eggs 1/4 cup of milk 2 pounds beef or pork 1 teaspoon garlic salt 1 cup green chile, chopped 1 cup of flour Boil or pressure-cook the meat until it is tender. Grind the meat, add chopped green chile, onion, and garlic salt in saucepan and mix well. Beat milk and one egg together and set aside. Beat the whites of two eggs until they form stiff peaks. Fold in yolks and set aside. In small, heavy frying pan heat shortening on medium-high heat. Form meat mixture into rounded balls, about 1-inch in diameter. One at a time, cover each meatball with the egg and milk mixture, roll the ball in the flour, and finally dip it in the egg white mixture. Gently lower the coated meatball into the hot grease. Let each cook until golden brown on both sides. Usually the meatballs will turn themselves over in the hot oil when they are done, but give them a turn if they need it. Using a slotted spoon, remove from the pan and set on a plate lined with paper to wick away the grease. Serve immediately with more red or green chile.

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

What is local food tourism? an interview with Rocky Durham

By Ari LeVaux ∙ photo by sergio salvador that are familiar, I don’t like change. Change is bad.” I like to challenge them to try something new. Make a declaration to yourself: I’m adventurous, I am bold, I am an adventurer. And that will serve you well, especially if you do get further afield. Because mac and cheese and chicken fingers get fewer and farther between.

Do you have some words of advice for how to begin to see a place through a more local lens? Being a native Santa Fean, I hate to be perceived as a tourist. I just cannot stand it. Short of trying to pretend I live there, I like to get up to speed, figure out how to get on the local metro system, how to get around, how to pay bus fare. There’s something to be said for feet on the ground, going the way the locals are going. If you know how to get around, get from point A to point B, then looking at a map becomes a good use of your time. You can see where the market is, where the wine shop is.

If you’re going somewhere, how do get engaged in what’s local? How do you truly start to understand a place when you visit?

Chef Rocky Durham has cooked professionally on five continents, and traveled to more than twenty-five countries, but he keeps returning home to Santa Fe. Now, with a fiancé and a new cooking school, his traveling days may be limited. Durham recently sat down (by phone) with edible Santa Fe to discuss a favorite pastime of his: getting off what he calls the “gringo trail,” and finding true local cuisine.

What is your advice to travelers, when it comes to eating in unfamiliar places? I’m not by nature an adventurous eater. When I was a kid I didn’t like mushrooms, I didn’t like carrots, I was very picky. This isn’t to say that I didn’t have to eat carrots, because I did, my father wasn’t a “we’ll make you special chicken fingers” kind of a guy. I had to make a conscious choice at one point in my life that I was an adventurous eater. I had to make a declaration about it. It was one of the most fun things. It opened up a whole new world to me. Now I encourage people that think to themselves, “Oh I like things

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

At the risk of sounding like a lush, I drink a lot of wine. And I’ve gotten to the point where I can absolutely identify the terroir of Northern New Mexico grapes. A lot of the New Mexican wines, their grapes are grown down in Deming—they buy the juice in Northern New Mexico and make it into wine. But the wines from Northern New Mexico grapes have terroir that is very distinctive. The Gruet Sparkling Rose from Estrella del Norte is an amazing treasure of New Mexico. So is the Founder’s Blend. If you did a blind tasting with a bunch of big city wine snobs, they would be blown away and maybe even have their feelings hurt when you told them it’s an eighteen-dollar bottle of wine from New Mexico. People think New Mexican wines are some new thing, even though we’re the oldest wine growing region in the New World. They think it’s some novelty. But the wines coming out of Northern New Mexico are just amazing. I saw a bumper sticker in Oregon that said “think global, drink local.” I thought that was so cool. And it’s something that I do a lot when I’m somewhere. I like to see not only what the locals are eating, but what the locals are drinking. Without that I would be really boring, and gravitate towards Rhone wines every time I looked at a wine list. I have to challenge myself to get out of that. By looking at what the locals drink, I can learn good things.

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There is New Mexican in style and New Mexican in origin. I can make French food using one hundred percent New Mexican ingredients and call it New Mexican food. When you travel, what do you like to take home with you?

time is of course always moving. I think we have to look at it as a four-dimensional kind of thing and not just along x and y axes.

What are your next adventures?

I was born here. That said, I don’t usually relate my food experience to New Mexican cuisine, in a stylistic sense. But I do profess to be an expert in all things New Mexican that are cultivated here.

The most exciting thing that is happening for me right now is the Santa Fe Culinary Academy, where I’m the executive chef and cofounder. We’re currently enrolling our first Professional Program class, which will start July 8. In addition to that one year program we’re offering four and five-day intensives, either for amateurs who want to rule their next dinner party or professionals who never jumped into the pastry world—the kind of cooks who, if the recipe calls for flour and yeast, they turn the page.

There is New Mexican in style and New Mexican in origin. I can make French food using one hundred percent New Mexican ingredients and call it New Mexican food. I think it’s interesting that when we talk about Italian food, and you ask anybody outside of Italy what is Italian food, you’ll come up with things like spaghetti and meatballs, or polenta. But so many of these things are New World. Tomato is a real recent introduction to the cuisine of Italy, as well as the pepper, as well as the zucchini. There were no pumpkin ravioli, there was no fajol over there until the Spanish returned with the bounty of the New World.

We’re also offering day classes ranging from a lecture/demonstration by a local cookbook author to a four to five-hour master class on how to butcher a pig and make sausage. www.santafeculinaryacademy.com

We have to define eras in the food continuum, rather than looking just at a region as being the answer. The region is a fixed point, but

Ari LeVaux writes Flash in the Pan, a syndicated weekly food column that's appeared in more than 50 newspapers in 25 states.

Chef Patrick Gharrity Features New American West Cuisine

Santa Fe’s Best Patio is Opening Soon! Come and Enjoy our Outdoor Bar.

Celebrating our 30th Anniversary

Open Daily 11:00am until 10:00pm 125 East Palace, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 (505) 988-9232 | complete menu at www.lacasasena.com

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

Edible Communities is proud to present the Edible Recipe Guide. Covering local food-loving regions across North America, James Beard Award-winning Edible Communities has forever changed the way we think about sustainability and the importance of being connected to your local food community, wherever you live. In this delicious new app, we present the very best of Edible Communities recipes â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a must-have collection of local, sustainable dishes that feature delectable meals to warm and wow, from luscious soups to divine desserts and everything in between, including tips and menus, Edible Radio podcasts, and links to all Edible Communities publications. Also included with your purchase of the app is a 6-issue, 1 year, subscription to Organic Gardening Magazine. See offer inside the app for details. Purchase now to get the very best that Edible Communities and Organic Gardening have to offer.

www.ediblecommunities.com edible Santa Fe Âˇ Spring 2013

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Nina 49Yozell-Epstein

edible Santa Fe 路 Spring 2013

kitchen table politics

Our Local Grocery Store, Where Food Meets Policy By Kathleen Gonzalez

Photo by Carole Topalian

When you walk into the grocery store, food policy is probably not on your mind. But food policy, whether it is federal, state or local, affects which foods you see on the shelves. Policies are simply the rules that govern, in this case, food. These rules can be laws, regulations, or simply, business practices.

Policies are generally enacted to meet some need. Whether that need is to create national organic rules, standardize labels that help us make nutritious food choices, ensure that our meat is fresh and properly processed, guarantee that our food is prepared in a sanitary environment, or cater to a particular clientele.

That wonderful, organic rainbow chard is governed by federal laws that are enforced by our state Department of Agriculture. The label I check to see what is in that box of granola, how many carbs and how much saturated fat, are regulated by the FDA. The grass-fed beef stew meat for my green chile stew is inspected by the USDA. The state Environment Department inspects the deli where I get my locally-produced goat cheese and my fresh organic beet, carrot, ginger juice. And store policies determine if I can find my favorite certified organic, raw vegan, gluten-free, handcrafted coconut-vanilla-almond snackaroons on the shelf.

Generally we go along with the rules and ignore the rule-making process—until we have a need. A good example is the introduction of genetically-modified organisms (GMO) into our food system. Although the manufacturers tell us that these foods are safe, there seem to be a large number of consumers would like to know if the food they are buying contains GMOs.

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

We’ve all heard of the big fight in California, last fall, over a bill to require labels for foods that contain GMO products. The bill was defeated by a fifty-three percent to forty-seven percent margin. The victory was expensive. Corporate interests spent forty-six million dollars

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advertising against the bill versus nine million dollars spent by supporters. Similar bills were introduced in five states, including New Mexico, with as many as twenty more states prepared to follow. Senate Bill 18, the GMO labeling bill introduced by Senator Peter Wirth (D-Santa Fe) this year, died a quick and fiery death on the floor of the NM Senate. In an unprecedented move, the bill was killed when the Senate voted twenty-three to seventeen not to accept a committee recommendation to pass. However, it looks like corporate interests have seen the handwriting on the wall as they gathered in Washington, DC a week ago to discuss what a national GMO labeling program might look like. Fresh, healthy food is important to me. I want to see our children, twenty-five percent of whom don’t get enough food at home, get fresh local apples, melons, lettuce, carrots and other fruits and vegetables in their school meals. The New Mexico Food and Ag Policy Council has determined that the best way to insure this will happen is through policy and requests for funding. Senator Pete Campos (D-Las Vegas) has led the five-year campaign to get New Mexico grown produce into the schools. “In these challenging economic times when a quarter of New Mexico’s children are considered food insecure, it is even more important that we meet their nutritional needs through a healthy school lunch that includes fresh fruits and vegetables. Investing in our school nutrition programs to purchase New Mexico-grown produce is a winwin for children and their health as well as New Mexico’s farming families,” Campos says. Local Corrales farmer Anthony Wagner, of Wagner Farms, is one of many NM farmers that would benefit if the bill is passed. Last year Wagner leased a large plot of land in Los Lunas and grew several thousand pounds of melons. Shauna Woodworth of Farm to Table helped Wagner qualify as a vendor for Albuquerque Public Schools (APS). Testifying before the Interim Legislative Health and Human Services Committee in November, Wagner said that if the schools were willing to buy more, he would plant more. This means more employment and more economic activity in the surrounding community. Wagner was testifying in favor of Senate Bill 80/ House Bill 338 New Mexico Grown Produce in School Meals. The bills ask for 1.4 million dollars in funds for schools to buy fresh local produce for school breakfasts and lunches. The bills were initiated by the New Mexico Food and Agriculture Policy Council (NMFAPC) to meet a need. A need the Council has seen intensify over the past five legislative sessions in which they have proposed this bill. Pam Roy, NMFAPC Coordinator says “There are farmers across the state looking for new markets for their produce, at the same time the new federal Child Nutrition Rules are requiring our schools to serve twice as many fruits and vegetables each day. This bill would help our schools meet the new requirements and expand markets for our New Mexico farmers.”

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The New Mexico Farmers Marketing Association (NMFMA) has identified additional needs among the less-fortunate in our communities. These populations have obesity rates as high as fifty percent for children in third grade. Studies suggest that is because high-calorie, high-carb foods cost less than healthy, fresh vegetables. In House Bill 100/ Senate Bill 219 Develop and Promote New Mexico Farmers Markets, the NMFMA is requesting eighty-five thousand dollars that would fund the New Mexico Fruit & Vegetable Prescription Program, a pediatric anti-obesity program being expanded in San Juan, San Miguel, Socorro, and Rio Arriba Counties, where prescriptions are written for healthy food and funds are provided, in the form of vouchers, for the purchase of fresh produce at nearby farmers markets. This bill would also fund a pilot program creating a network of Community Health Workers to promote farmers markets and fresh food options in the Colonias, on reservations and pueblos, and in other underserved areas of our state. In addition, the funds would support statewide public education and outreach that targets seniors, and WIC and SNAP recipients to promote the purchase of fresh food at farmers markets. These rules are reflected in our shopping experience. I love walking into a well-run grocery store with a cornucopia of fresh wonderful produce. I get excited by the variety and for seasonal foods to inspire my menus for the week. Unfortunately, not everyone has access to these stores. I used to live on a ranch in northern New Mexico where the nearest grocery store was forty miles away. We were lucky, we grew a huge garden. But many of our neighbors did not garden and, in addition, many of our older neighbors, our vejitos, didn’t drive, so they had to depend on relatives for their groceries. Data shows that the farther you live from a grocery store the less likely you are to get a recommended number of fruits and vegetables. Almost all the vejitos in my community were diabetic and depended on insulin. You would be hard pressed to see any fresh fruits and vegetables in my neighbors’ homes. But everyone has sodas, ice cream and chips. The NMFAPC recognized this fact, and sponsored legislation that would help our rural communities create the infrastructure to attract grocery stores to their communities. Unfortunately, that legislation didn’t pass. The fact is policy work takes time and commitment. Getting everyone to agree on what needs to be done is a huge challenge. Organizations like the NMFPAC work year after year to get legislation passed. No one does this work alone—it takes partnerships of organizations across the state and the interest, help, action, and participation of citizens like you. Kathleen Gonzalez is the Communications and Program Coordinator at Farm to Table and a founding member of the New Mexico Food & Agriculture Policy Council. She can be contacted at kathleen@farmtotablenm.org.

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

Table Hopping Story and Photos by Sergio Salvador

Albuquerque

he New Mexico Brewer’s Guild; www.nmbeer.org, recently added location #32 to its “Frontier of Beer” New Mexico map of member breweries and brewpubs. Bosque Brewing Company is the brainchild of five thirty-something friends who were locked into careers they wanted out of, and is a welcome addition to what is considered one of the nation’s most celebrated and dynamic microbrew cities—that’s right—Albuquerque. Head Brewer Gabe Jensen says that the Scotia Scotch Ale is easily the most popular beer on tap, and that he has a difficult time keeping it on hand because of the additional time it takes to make. “It takes four weeks to brew it and we sell out in two.” If they’re out when you visit, try the easydrinking Kindling Golden Ale or the Boss Pale Ale, which features hops grown locally down the river at DeSmet Farms. Bring an appetite and sample the tantalizing panini menu as well (the Pretzel Brat comes highly recommended). Be sure and check out one of the brewpub’s ads on YouTube before you go, just to get into the right mindset.

f you haven’t waited for a table at Farina Pizzeria, you don’t get out much. Folks have been lining up for the signature thin-crusted gourmet pizza and delectable antipasti in an upscale, urban setting since the restaurant opened in 2008. Beginning this spring, you may be able to get your favorite pizza without the wait. Owner Terry Keene confirmed that Farina Alto will open in May in the space that recently housed Pacific Rim Asian Bistro in the Northeast Heights. There will be seating for 140, three-times the capacity of the current Farina. And with a much larger kitchen to work from, current Farina Sous Chef Cory Gray is putting finishing touches on an expanded menu. Gray will become Executive Chef at the new location. Farina Alto joins Savoy and El Patron to form something of a restaurant row along the stretch of Montgomery Boulevard just west of Juan Tabo Boulevard. 10721 Montgomery Boulevard NE; 505-243-0130, www.farinapizzeria.com

8900 San Mateo Boulevard NE; 505-750-7596, www.bosquebrewingco.com

Rocka Taco

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

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hat was once Retro Taco is now Rocka Taco, and the name is not all that has changed. Gold Street Café owner Matt Nichols took over the Brickyard District space near the University of New Mexico campus, and reworked the menu to emphasize the fresh, made-from-scratch cooking that we’ve come to expect from him over the years. The pared-down menu features tacos exclusively, with pork carnitas, shredded beef, chicken or grilled veggie options. Cheese-crusted corn tortillas take the flavor to the next level, and diners choose from five delicious salsas made fresh every day. The price point is student-friendly and the menu simple, but the tacos and salsas will impress the most sophisticated palates. Best deal on the menu has to be the Taco and a Beer for five dollars. 115 Harvard Drive SE; 505-433-5051, On Facebook @RockaTaco

“We were so thrilled and grateful,” says owner/operator Amy Black. “I feel like this was a night where everybody won—the trucks, the customers, Il Vicino and the promoters…It was such a positive step, and having 700 people show up tells me that momentum is building fast within the Albuquerque food truck community. It feels good.” By all accounts, the four contestants delivered delicious fare, and all the trucks sold out. In the end, the judges were won over by The Supper Truck’s sublime Shrimp & Grits, one example of Black’s emphasis on low-country style of modern Southern cooking. According to York, plans are already in motion for Food Truck Rumble III. The event may move to a larger venue to accommodate more trucks and the growing number of Burqueños interested in local food truck fare. edible Santa Fe will be there! Dia de Los Takos; 505-550-8540, www.diadelostakos.com

n January 21 more than 700 people descended on the Il Vicino Tap Room to take part in Food Truck Rumble II, an outstanding event put on by Inhabitants of Burque and Yelp. In the wake of an energetic national trend, local interest in food trucks is spiking, and the quality and creativity of food truck fare here in the Duke City is rising to meet the demand. The four trucks on hand for the event were Dia de Los Takos, The Supper Truck, Seasonal Palate, and The Boiler Monkey. Judges included Carmelina Hart from 92.3 KRST, Local IQ’s Justin de la Rosa, local comedienne Sarah Kennedy, Howie Kaibel from Yelp! and Inhabitants of Burque creator Leo York. In a hard-fought battle, The Supper Truck wrested the belt from reigning champ Dia de los Takos, who took second place this time around.

The Supper Truck; 505-205-7877, www.ilovesupper.com Seasonal Palate; 505-934-3866, www.theseasonalpalate.com The Boiler Monkey; 505-315-0567, www.theboilermonkey.com

ith their first Duke City winter in the rear view mirror, Vinaigrette will be cutting the ribbon on two patios at their Old Town location sometime in April. The east patio at the main entrance will offer a boisterous, bistro-style atmosphere with bar tables and foot traffic as people come and go. On the west side of the building will be nestled a larger, more secluded patio offering an atmosphere owner Erin Wade describes as a secret garden. Vinaigrette’s arrival in Albuquerque has been met with virtually universal fanfare, as customers clamor for the creative entrée salads, soups and hearty sandwiches that make it a hot-spot in Santa Fe since 2008. Now, with some of Albuquerque’s best patio seating added to the equation, Vinaigrette has won the day. Or maybe the rest of us have. 1828 Central Avenue SW; 505-842-5507, www.vinaigretteonline.com

Santa Fe

iona Wong and Soma Franks had the same vision before they ever met. Each dreamed of a gathering place where socially and nutritionally conscious people could gather and share ideas and a fresh meal without having to worry about where the food on their plate or the coffee in their cup came from or how it got there. On December 13 last year, Wong and Franks opened the doors at Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen in the Design District’s Pacheco Park, and their dreams morphed into a reality. In true community fashion, Wong and Franks looked to surrounding Pacheco Park businesses to help shape their restaurant. Lighting, for example, was overseen by Form + Function, New Water Innovations installed the water-filtration system, Floorscape sourced eco-friendly Marmoleum for the counter and community table, and FOUR’s Micheal Ouellette provided rugs for the wall art. The Sweetwater commitment to the local community is matched by the restaurant’s

Food Truck Rumble II

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Matt Yohalem, Il Piatto

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

it’s always fresh, always local, always close. Local ingredients, served locally. We seek out the freshest, seasonal organic produce, meats and fish. Then we serve it up with flair and attentive service right in your neighborhood. Join locals supporting locals. Deliciously.

OLD TOWN ALBUQUERQUE 505.766.5100 www.seasonsabq.com

HISTORIC NOB HILL 505.254.ZINC(9462) www.zincabq.com

ALBUQUERQUE HEIGHTS 505.294.WINE(9463) www.savoyabq.com

ALBUQUERQUE, SANTA FE 505.850.2459 www.tasteabq.com

. .truly local. edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

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table hopping

Fiona Wong and Soma Franks mission of responsible ingredient sourcing and environmental stewardship, exemplified by the installation of New Mexico’s first temperature-controlled wine taps and the daily milling of their own buckwheat, spelt and oat flour. “A low carbon footprint is important to us, so we look for ways to achieve this goal while also providing a healthy and tasty meal.” Executive chef Skye Hothan came in earlier this year to oversee the eclectic Sweetwater menu and counter service concept. Hothan trained at Le Cordon Blue in Scottsdale and oversaw the kitchens of the Rancho Pino Grill and the Amber Inn. 1512 Pacheco Street; 505-795-7383, www. sweetwatersf.com

n the summer of 2011, Josh and Kate Gerwin were forced to close Casa Vieja, the Corrales restaurant they had put back on the map, because of major structural damage to the old building. It was a difficult time, but fast-forward a couple of years and we find Josh recharged and ready to get back to what he loves, running a kitchen. Maintaining his chops since the closure with catering and a consulting gig at Albuquerque’s popular Desert Fish, Gerwin was ready to get back to operating a restaurant, and will be opening Dr. Field Goods. The 1,200-square-foot space recently housed Los Nietos Café, and was completely renovated. A New Mexico horno sits in the middle of the restaurant, and the kitchen is built around it so that Gerwin will be preparing meals surrounded by his customers. The forty-seat dining room includes sixteen bar stools providing the close quarters environment that Josh has long wanted to work in. “It’s like you are walking into my kitchen, and that’s how I like it,” he says. Four forty-three-inch plasma televisions are strategically placed to show the game, and a well-rounded beer and wine list will be affordably priced. Gerwin is bringing the Casa Enchiladas with him from Corrales along with the legendary New Mexican, a delectable pulled pork sandwich. Chef Josh’s emphasis on local sourcing of ingredients is well documented, and he will look to local growers like B&B Farms for produce and Lamont Buffalo for meat. 2860 Cerrillos Road; 505-670-6583, www.drfieldgoods.com

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Nelli Maltezos

rattoria Nostrani has for years been a Santa Fe dining treasure and destination for people visiting from around the world. Deemed one of the Top 50 restaurants in the United States by Gourmet Magazine, and Top 500 in the world by Frommer’s, the cozy Italian restaurant, set in a nineteenth century historic building, was renowned for its excellence, and globe-trotting epicureans in the know had it on speed dial. But this January, chef and owner Nelli Maltezos quietly changed the name of the restaurant to Vivre and installed a French bistro concept menu. “I wanted to get back to where I started and what I know best,” says Maltezos, who started her culinary career learning the foundations of French cooking at Charlie Trotter’s. “I felt like I was using Italian ingredients and trying to be true to Italian cooking traditions, but being called back to the French style of cooking that I’d started with and had become such a part of me.” Those with long memories know that this is actually the second namechange at the location—that before Nostrani there was Rociada, the French bistro Maltezos and Eric Stapleman originally opened to great acclaim in 1997. An affordable wine program emphasizing French selections complements the new menu. So, in some ways, things have come full circle. 304 Johnson Street; 505-983-3800, www.trattorianostrani.com

aul Hunsicker is wearing a chef's coat in public again. Many Santa Feans fondly remember Paul’s Restaurant on Marcy Street, long located in the building that today is home to La Boca. Hunsicker closed his restaurant in 2006 and spent the

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

Outdoor patio opening in April. Come join us!

8917 4th St NW

Albuquerque, NM 87114

edible Santa Fe 路 Spring 2013

505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com

Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm

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table hopping

Eric Lamalle better part of six years tucked away at the Quail Run private community, first as Food and Beverage Director and then Executive Chef. Edible readers will be happy to know they can find him in the kitchen at Azur, where owner Eric Lamalle mad him chef last November. Hunsicker brings considerable experience and accolades with him to the sleek and modern bistro, and the eclectic menu provides creative license to play with a range of flavors from different regions throughout the Mediterranean. North African influences reveal themselves in items like the Plum Lamb Tangine, and Middle-Eastern touches include Crispy Fallafel Cakes. Hints of Greece are tucked into the salads on the menu. “Lately we’ve been exploring flavors from the French Riviera, parts of Spain, and southern Italy,” says Hunsicker, pointing out the braised pork shank over polenta as an example of the latter. The menu is an adventure, and with Chef Paul at the helm, one worth embarking upon. 428 Agua Fria Road, Santa Fe; 505-992-2897, www.azuresantafe.com Sergio Salvador is an Albuquerque-based professional photographer, an occasional writer and a graphic designer sometimes. His work has been featured in New Mexico Magazine, Su Casa, The Santa Fean, Popular Plates, Vegetarian Times, edible Santa Fe and other fine publications. If you have a scoop for Sergio, send it to sergio@salvadorphoto.com.

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

eat local guide

PREMIUM

New Mexico has its own unique food traditions—from Hatch to Chimayo—and we’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants and chefs that create the distinctively New Mexico dining experience. Restaurants are chosen for this dining guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients in their menus and their commitment to real food.

Authentic

Albuquerque Door to door burritos

Delicious

L LY

S O U RC E

Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

Our cuisine is rooted in what comes from our farm as well as the New Mexico Rio Grande River Valley. Cuisine and ambiance reflect chef Jonathan Perno’s aesthetic, and the farm’s long established relationships with local farmers. Join us at the Historic Inn for dinner featuring our La Merienda menu. Wednesday – Saturday from 5pm – 9pm by reservation only. Or book your own event or private dining experience. 4803 Rio Grande NW, 505-344-9297, www.lospoblanos.com

The only company in ABQ delivering fresh, handmade burritos to your door. Delivered throughout the city; log on for menu at DoorToDoorBurritos.com. Bulk orders welcome with advanced notice. Open Mon - Fri, 7am - 11am, Call for special orders Sat - Sun 505-710-0198, www.doortodoorburritos.com

Duran Central Pharmacy

The unique restaurant and pharmacy setting of Duran Central Pharmacy is a frequent stop for locals and tourists. All of our food is made in-house, including our hand rolled tortillas. We use the leanest meat and freshest ingredients, as well as New Mexico grown chile. Our authentic New Mexican food is a local and international favorite. Browse through our aisles on the way to the restaurant—we have a large selection of unique gifts, bath and body products, kitchen gadgets, imported chocolates, southwest books, and gourmet teas. We look forward to serving you! Mon – Fri 9am – 6pm; Sat 9am – 2pm; Sun Closed 1815 Central Ave NW, 505-247-4141, www.durancentralpharmacy.com

Savoy Bar and Grill

Savoy Bar and Grill offers casual fine dining in Albuquerque’s Northeast Heights. Savoy has a full bar, extensive wine list, and serves steaks, oysters, and fresh fish. We have a beautiful patio and lounge featuring specials and a daily happy hour. Sunday Brunch 12pm – 3pm; Lunch M – F 11am – 2pm; Dinner daily 5pm 10601 Montgomery Blvd NE, 505-294-9463, www.savoyabq.com

Seasons Rotisserie & Grill

Great food and wine with a seasonal flair. Enjoy our wood-fired steaks and seafood while sipping a glass of wine from our award winning wine list. Or, relax on our rooftop patio and enjoy our happy hour with a great view of Old Town, Albuquerque. 2031 Mountain Rd NW, 505-766-5100, www.seasonsabq.com

Farm & Table

Join us for a wonderful dining experience in Albuquerque’s gorgeous North Valley! Farm & Table offers seasonal dishes created by scratch with ingredients sourced from local farmers and from our on-site farm. Delectable dishes inspired by New Mexico’s growing season will satisfy the omnivore as well as the vegetarian – and are complimented by select wines & craft beers. Wed – Thurs, 5pm – 9pm; Fri – Sat, 5pm – 10pm; Sat – Sun, 9am – 2pm 8917 4th NW, 505-503-7124, www.farmandtablenm.com

The Grove Café & Market

An artisan café serving breakfast, lunch, and brunch. The Grove features local organic produce and products, and always uses the highest quality seasonal ingredients available. Enjoy fine coffee, tea, wine, and brunch cocktails. Peruse our market for culinary gifts and favorite foodie items. Sunday brunch is a true taste of this bustling café scene. Tues – Sat 7am – 4pm; Sun 8am – 3pm; Closed Monday 600 Central SE, 505-248-9800, www.thegrovecafemarket.com

Flying star

Fine cuisine in a friendly scene. We’re your locally-owned neighborhood cafe serving made from scratch food, desserts, and fresh roasted coffee. We’re open early and stay open late from breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in between. Diverse magazines and free Wi-Fi. Eight locations in Albuquerque, family owned. 723 Silver Ave SW 505-244-8099; 8001 Menaul Blvd NE 505-293-6911; 3416 Central Ave SE 505-255-6633; 4501 Juan Tabo NE 505-275-8311; 4026 Rio Grande NW 505-344-6714; 10700 Corrales Rd, 505-938-4717; 8000 Paseo del Norte, 505-923-4211; 200 S Camino del Pueblo, Bernalillo 505-404-2100, www.flyingstarcafe.com

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

EAT LOCAL GUIDE

Zinc Wine Bar and Bistro

A three level bistro in the heart of Nob Hill, Zinc features contemporary cuisine with a French flair. The intimate cellar bar serves a lighter menu with live music three nights a week. Serving dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails, and tasty bar bites! Drinks and appetizers daily from 4pm; Dinner and The Cellar Bar daily from 5pm; Weekend brunch 11am – 2:30pm 3009 Central Ave NE, 505-254-9462, www.zincabq.com

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Santa Fe Andiamo

Terra at Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado Santa Fe

Inspired by Northern New Mexico and infused with local and organically sourced ingredients, Executive Chef Andrew Cooper’s menu blends a seasonal sense of balance, place, and comfort to create a new twist on contemporary American cuisine. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner 198 State Road 592, 877-262-4666, www.fourseasons.com/santafe

Zia Diner

Serving upscale, down home comfort food, the Zia Diner, a Santa Fe restaurant in business since 1986, serves updated renditions of diner classics – think Green Chile-Pinon Meatloaf – along with an eclectic menu of southwestern and international comfort food. This high-energy restaurant and bar prides itself on its professional and friendly service and exceptional food. The Zia uses grass-fed, additive-free beef, free-range and additive-free chicken and eggs, and local, organic, fair-trade Agapao Coffee. Open all day every day from 7am 326 S Guadalupe Street, 505-988-7008, www.ziadiner.com

Flying star

Fine cuisine in a friendly scene. We’re your locally-owned neighborhood cafe serving made from scratch food, desserts and fresh roasted coffee. We’re open early and stay open late from breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in between. Diverse magazines and free Wi-Fi. 500 Market Street in the Railyard, 505-216-3939, www.flyingstarcafe.com

Joe’s Dining

Since 2002 Santa Fe’s largest purchaser of Farmers Market meats and produce, expertly prepared by our European trained chef/owner. Mesquite grill, pizza, brunch, wine, beer. Excellent quality, exceptional value. Tues – Sun 11:30am – 9pm 2801 Rodeo Rd at Zia, 505-471-3800, www.joesdining.com

taos Doc Martin’s, Taos Inn

La Casa Sena

Doc Martin’s Restaurant, a true Taos tradition, is an acclaimed dining establishment located in a registered historic landmark. Executive Chef Zippy White specializes in fresh local food with a splash of the southwest, sourcing from regional farms and gardens. With over 400 wine selections, our worldclass wine list has earned Wine Spectator’s “Best Of” Award of Excellence for twenty-one consecutive years. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner; Serving brunch on Saturday & Sunday 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2233, www.taosinn.com

La Casa Sena – A local favorite for over 28 years! Chef Gharrity features New American West cuisine infused with fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients. We also feature an award-winning wine list. Located in the historic Sena Plaza. La Casa Sena and La Cantina are open daily 11am until close. La Cantina’s singing wait staff performs nightly starting at 6pm. 125 E. Palace Ave, 505-988-5232, www.lacasasena.com

Momo & Co

We're dedicated to providing people with quality one hundred percent gluten-free, (mostly) vegan baked goods without sacrificing taste and scrumptiousness. We're also Santa Fe's only all-natural Boba Tea Bar. Offering breakfast, lunch, soups, salads, coffee, and free Wi-Fi. Limited parking, but an awesome kid’s play area. Mon – Fri 8:30am – 4pm; Sat 10am – 5pm; Closed Sunday 229A Johnson St off Guadalupe, 505-983-8000, www.momoandcompany.com

Taos Diner and Taos Diner II

Second Street brewery

A fun and casual restaurant, perfect for a delicious meal or cocktails and appetizers to top off the day. The menu is straightforward, yet eclectic, and chock full of favorites. Every dish on the menu is made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible. 103 East Taos Plaza, 575-758-8866, www.thegorgebarandgrill.com

Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown, and organic breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine. Many ingredients from local farms and ranches. Fair trade organic coffee. It’s where the locals go! 908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374 216B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989, www.taosdinner.com

The Gorge Bar and Grill

The Second Street Brewery staff works hard to present a neighborhood brewpub that is welcoming to all local residents and visitors alike. Here you can enjoy a fine handcrafted ale or lager with a variety of eclectic pub fare—a place where truly everyone knows your name. 1814 Second Street, 505-982-3030 1607 Paseo De Peralta in the Railyard, 505-989-3278, www.secondstreetbrewery.com

A tavola non si invecchia.

(At the table with good friends you do not grow old.)

NEIGHBORHOOD TRATTORIA

Lunch M-F 11-2 · Dinner Nightly from 5 322 Garfield Street, Santa Fe 505.995.9595 · AndiamoSantaFe.com

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

LIB

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www.libertygym.com

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no initiation fees | new members receive free personal training orientation 505.884.8012 | 2401 Jefferson NE Albuquerque, NM 87110

edible Santa Fe 路 Spring 2013

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edible Santa Fe 路 Spring 2013

reader recipes

Local Food Fest Pie Contest Winners This fall at the Local Food and Field Day organized by the Agricultural Collaborative at the Hubbell House, edible Santa Fe hosted its first annual Pie Contest. Local amateur bakers—six contenders in all—presented pies to a panel of four judges: Amelia White, Ari LeVaux, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, and Mina Yamashita. Judges scored pies in five categories: 1. Overall appearance; 2. Crust color, texture, doneness, and flavor; 3. Filling consistency, doneness, and flavor; 4. Overall taste; and 5. Use of local ingredients.

Six fabulous and unusual pies made for stiff competition and tough choices for the judges. Winners Suzette Lindemuth and Leila Salim took first and second place by small margins, beating out apple, cherry, squash, and chocolate pecan pies. If you missed the competition, you can still try the winners by making these delicious pies. Let them inspire you to start planning early for your entry in the Fall 2013 competition. Winners receive a gift certificate and publication in the spring issue!

1st Place – Quince Candied Apple Pie

Cover quince with simple syrup and cardamom. Simmer for 1 hour at low temperature in a heavy bottomed pan. Remove excess syrup and reserve for the apple filling. Spread quinces on deep roasting pan and roast at 225° F for an hour. The color will darken and quinces will become more caramelized—do not over roast as they must finish caramelizing in the pie. Set aside and let filling cool.

By Suzette Lindemuth, Center for Ageless Living, www.nmagelessliving.info This recipe was inspired by the fruits of fall. Quinces and Granny Smith apples were sourced from Five Leaf Community Garden, at the Center for Ageless Living. The Red Delicious apples I picked from a friend’s tree in Taos.

Apple Filling 2–3 pounds of apples, peeled and thinly sliced Remaining quince syrup to cover apples (add additional simple syrup if needed) 1 teaspoon of cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon of nutmeg Juice of one large lemon (2 to 3 tablespoons)

Caramelized Quince 1–2 pounds quince, peeled and sliced thinly 2 cups simple syrup 1 teaspoon cardamom, ground

Simmer all ingredients on low heat until the apples are tender. Consider using 2 varieties of apples for texture. Set aside and let filling cool. Pie Crust (Mother Palmer) 1 1/2 cup sifted all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup shortening (lard preferred) 4 to 5 tablespoons purified cold water Pre-heat the oven to 425° F. Cut lard into flour and salt. Add water and mix only until the ingredients hold together. (A food processor is ideal for this.) Roll out the dough into a 14-inch circle, and place in a 10-inch pie pan. Pre-cook the crust for about 10 minutes prior to construction. Pie Construction Caramelized quince Apple filling 2 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces Sea salt Preheat the oven to 350° F. Sprinkle sea salt on bottom of crust. Spoon the apple filling into the crust, then dot with butter pieces. Top the pie with the caramelized quince. Bake 30 to 45 minutes or until the crust is brown and pie is set. Let cool for at least an hour before serving. Serve warm with crème fraîche or vanilla ice cream.

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

2nd Place – Apple Quince Pie with Blue Corn Anise Seed Crust By Leila Salim, Albuquerque Old School, www.abqoldschool.com The Downtown Grower’s Market boasts some pretty amazing produce in the fall: tart New Mexico apples, firm and fuzzy quince, and winter squash of every shape, size, and color. Along with these I picked up some ground atole and fresh eggs from my local farmers. The blue corn brings a fall harvest flavor, and I couldn’t help but add anise seeds to the crust to hint at biscochito cookies to come during the holiday season. Blue Corn Anise Seed Pie Crust Makes 1 crust. Double the recipe for top and bottom crusts. 1 1/4 cup flour 1/2 cup atole (blue cornmeal) 3 tablespoons sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup cold butter, diced 1 egg yolk, beaten 1 tablespoon anise seed, lightly crushed 1/4 cup ice water, or more, as needed Whisk dry ingredients together. Cut in butter until crumbly. Add the egg yolk and stir with a fork. Add ice water and stir until mixture just holds together when squeezed. Form into a ball, flatten into a disk, and chill at least 2 hours. Bring to room temperature before rolling. Apple Quince Pie Filling 4 small quince, peeled, cored, and sliced 6 medium apples, peeled, cored, and sliced 3/4 cup sugar, divided 3 tablespoons tapioca flour 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ginger 1 pinch each, ground nutmeg, clove

(505) 866-1936 greenhousebistro.com 05 Thomas Rd. | L.L., NM

Take Out · Picnic In · Catering Private Dinners · Special Events Serving produce in season from five leaf organics, our onsite organic garden and from local farmers. Always Fresh. Always Good.

Make double recipe of Blue-Corn Anise Seed Pie Crust dough. Roast quince in 350° F oven for 2 hours in 2 cups water and 1/4 cup sugar, covered. Stir every 30 minutes. Add water as needed. Meanwhile, sprinkle 1/4 cup sugar over apples and let macerate for 1 hour. Drain juice from apples and quince and put in saucepan to reduce to 2–3 tablespoons.

24 Carrots

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In large bowl, stir together the fruit and remaining ingredients. Set out both piecrusts, about an hour into preparing the fruit, to bring them to room temperature, then roll into 10-inch circles. Once the fruit has been prepared, arrange the mixture in bottom crust. Cover the pie with the top crust and crimp edges together. Cut slits in the top crust, then brush with juice reduction syrup. Bake on the lowest rack at 425° F for 10 minutes. Cover with foil and bake at 350° F for 40 minutes or until the apples have softened and the crust has lightly browned.

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Cool at room temperature at least an hour before serving.

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2013

last bite

Mexico w e N , n w Pie To beaten e h t f f o is far w o rt h l l e w d path an the trip!

Watch the Video

edible Santa Fe 路 Spring 2013

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