Spring Issue 2016: Heading South by edible New Mexico

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SANTA FE ®· ALBUQUERQUE · TAOS The Story of Local Food, Season by Season ISSUE 43 · SPRING · APRIL / MAY 2016

Heading South

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Anticipating Abundance

Join us this spring for a dining experience inspired by the abundance of our on-site garden and greenhouse.

Voted top 100 restaurants in America in 2015 by OpenTable www.arroyovino.com â&#x20AC;˘ Santa Fe â&#x20AC;˘ 505.983.2100

APRIL / MAY 2016 DEPARTMENTS 2

GRIST FOR THE MILL By Willy Carleton and Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

CONTRIBUTORS

LOCAL HEROES

Old Windmill Dairy, Street Food Institute, and Radish & Rye

FRONT OF THE HOUSE Mancini's Modern Olive Oil by Katherine Mast

BACK OF THE HOUSE Red Sage Redefined by Candolin Cook

BEHIND THE BOTTLE Touring Winegrowing Country by Cameron Weber

COOKING FRESH The Ark of Taste in Tucson by Megan Kimble

DIGGING IN

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

TABLE HOPPING

A Recipe for Sustainability by Natalie Bovis

ON THE COVER 75 EAT LOCAL GUIDE 80 LAST BITE

Bang Bite Churro Milkshake by Enrique Guerrero

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SANTA FE ®· ALBUQUERQUE · TAOS The STory of LocaL food, SeaSon by SeaSon ISSUE 43 · SPRING · APRIL / MAY 2016

FEATURES 36 B & B ROUNDUP By Stephanie Cameron

44 DRAWING LINES By Willy Carleton

52 THE SPIRIT OF THE RIO GRANDE By Marisa Thompson Potter

58 SONORAN DESERT GASTRONOMY

Heading South

Spring! Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

By Debbie Weingarten

64 SOWING SEEDS OF DIVERSITY AND BIODIVERSITY By Lora Logan

Detours by Stephanie Cameron The Albuquerque-Chihuahua Connection by Brandon Jordon WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

GRIST FOR THE MILL

PUBLISHERS Bite Size Media, LLC Stephanie and Walt Cameron

Dreams of escaping the doldrums of February to warmer and more unknown parts of the country often inspire our spring issue. This spring, we headed south. We traveled nearly a thousand miles just north of the US-Mexico border, from the highdesert yucca hills of Marfa, Texas, to the salt mist sunshine of San Diego, California. Along the way, we stopped in El Paso, Texas, and Tucson, Arizona. At each stop, we asked our writers to search for the pulse of the place through its food. As the stories in this issue reveal, the particularities of climates and various cultural convergences have all shaped the food scene of these cities in different ways to create a highly diverse landscape of local food in this northern stretch of borderlands. Each stop on our southern tour provided pleasant surprises. In Marfa, a rural west Texas town perhaps best known for its art and its eccentrics, a small and daring food scene has quietly developed. El Paso, ensconced in the fertile valley that shares agricultural roots with southern New Mexico wine country, offers art, farming, and hip nightlife not associated with the city since perhaps the 1930s. Tucson, an emblem of both innovative local food and innovative storytelling about food, celebrates its new designation as an UNESCO World City of Gastronomy. All the recipes in this issue generously come from our sister publication, edible Baja Arizona. In San Diego, we diverged from the common tourist trail to community gardens, refuge farming programs, and urban farms, a rewarding and unusual way to experience the coastal city. In each story, writers brought local perspective and expertise to their stories, offering our readers a guide to experience these places in potentially new and deeper ways. If you find yourself in any of these places, or perhaps several of them if you happen to drive across the country on I-10 one day, we hope this issue provides valuable tips and satisfying meals. We hope too that it provides insights on how to approach travel through exploring local food. Whether it’s a drive to Texas, a flight to San Diego, or anywhere else, may these stories inspire you to seek out the best local food wherever you are.

Willy Carleton and Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, Editors

EDITORS Willy Carleton and Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Jodi L. Vevoda

COPY EDITORS Margaret Marti and Briana Olson

DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron

PHOTOGRAPHY & ILLUSTRATION Stephanie Cameron, Liora K, Lora Logan, Alex Marks, Robert J. Long, Marisa Thompson Potter, Karen Schaffner

WEB AND SOCIAL MEDIA EDITORS Stephanie Cameron, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

VIDEO PRODUCER Walt Cameron

ADVERTISING Walt Cameron, Gina Riccobono, Jodi L. Vevoda, and Cyndi Wood

CONTACT US: 3301-R Coors Boulevard NW #152 Albuquerque, NM 87120 info@ediblesantafe.com www.ediblesantafe.com Phone/Fax: 505-212-0791

SUBSCRIBE ∙ BUY AN AD ∙ LETTERS 505-212-0791 WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at INFO@EDIBLESANTAFE.COM Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible Santa Fe six times a year. We distribute throughout central and northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. Printed at American Web Denver, Colorado

Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers

EAT. DRINK. THINK.

Local

edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2015

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CONTRIBUTORS NATALIE BOVIS Natalie Bovis founded TheLiquidMuse.com, Santa Fe Cocktail Week, and New Mexico Cocktails & Culture festival (June 2016), and co-founded OM Organic Mixology Liqueurs. She hosts Digging In: A Recipe for Sustainability, an edible Santa Fe video program, and has authored three cocktail books, including Edible Cocktails: Garden-To-Glass. A bar consultant and spirits educator, she was named one of four women leading the liquor industry by Bustle.com. WILLY CARLETON Willy Carleton lives in Albuquerque and is an avid vegetable grower, forager, and editor of edible Santa Fe. He is writing a dissertation on the agricultural history of twentieth-century New Mexico in the history department at the University of New Mexico. CANDOLIN COOK Candolin Cook is a history doctoral student at the University of New Mexico and an associate editor for the New Mexico Historical Review. She spends much of her free time growing flowers and washing radishes at Vida Verde Farm, an organic vegetable farm in Albuquerque's North Valley, which she co-owns with her husband. Follow her farm life on Instagram: @candolin and @vidaverdefarmabq. BRANDON JORDAN Brandon Jordan was born and raised (with the exception of a few years in El Paso, Texas) in Burbank, California. Yes, that place deemed beautiful by variety show announcers and home of most movie studios. Now an Albuquerque resident, Jordan is a recent hotelier, LA Dodgers fan, pub trivia champion, and a fanatical foodie. MEGAN KIMBLE Megan Kimble is a Tucson journalist with an graduate degree in creative nonfiction from the University of Arizona. Her book, Unprocessed: My Busy, Broke, City-Dwelling Year of Reclaiming Food, was published in 2015 by William Morrow/HarperCollins. ROBERT LONG Robert Long aims to promote conservation and to give underrepresented life forms a louder voice. He grew up in Maryland, where his friends introduced him to crabbing on the Chesapeake Bay. He currently creates and teaches visual art in Tucson. www.nearsightgraphite.com 4

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LORA LOGAN Lora Logan is the Farm and Food Enterprise Coordinator with the International Rescue Committee in San Diego where she manages multiple food and farming entrepreneurship and job training programs and coordinates a project to empower change in the city's community agriculture policies. She has a young daughter who loves to dig in the dirt and taste things growing in the garden. KATHERINE MAST Katherine Mast is a freelance science and environmental writer living in Santa Fe, where she dabbles in backyard gardening and vermicomposting. MARISA THOMPSON POTTER Marisa Thompson Potter is a horticulture student, researcher, gardener, and urban orchardist in Las Cruces. She is wrapping up her dissertation on flowering behavior in pecan trees this year (fingers crossed) and plans to stay in New Mexico to support sustainability in our communities through agricultural research, teaching, and outreach. CAMERON WEBER Cameron Weber is a planner and conservationist in Albuquerque. She will gladly talk native plants with you at Plants of the Southwest or introduce you to landscape restoration at an Albuquerque Wildlife Federation volunteer project. A lover of all things fermentation, she makes wine and encourages wine curiosity. DEBBIE WEINGARTEN Debbie Weingarten is a freelance writer and editor based in Tucson, Arizona. She serves on the City of Tucson's Commission for Food Security, Heritage, and Economy. Debbie is a former vegetable farmer and the co-founder of the Farm Education and Resource Network (FERN). SARAH WENTZEL-FISHER Sarah Wentzel-Fisher is the editor of edible Santa Fe. She also works for the Rio Grande Farmers Coalition and the Quivira Coalition New Agrarian Program, and wants you (yes, all of you) to consider growing food. In her free time she visits farms (she highly recommends this activity), experiments in her kitchen, and keeps chickens in her backyard.

Lloyd Kiva New native

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Fashion trend-setter. Designer. Artist. Educator.

Join us as we celebrate the life and legacy of Lloyd Kiva New. IAIA MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY NATIVE ART Lloyd Kiva New: Art, Design, and Influence january

through september

11, 2016

MUSEUM OF INDIAN ARTS AND CULTURE A New Century: The Life and Legacy of Cherokee Artist and Educator Lloyd Kiva New february

through december

30, 2016

NEW MEXICO MUSEUM OF ART Finding a Contemporary Voice: The Legacy of Lloyd Kiva New and IAIA may

through october

10, 2016

www.nmculture.org/lkn

LOCAL HEROES

Old Windmill Dairy BEST FOOD ARTISAN

Michael and Ed Lobaugh

Ed and Michael Lobaugh own and operate Old Windmill Dairy, a farmstead dairy that produces fresh, aged, and bloomy rind goat and cow cheeses. They focus on their goats, cows, and community. Their cheeses have placed at the US Champion Cheese Contest in Wisconsin, the Albuquerque Fiery Food Show, the American Dairy Goat Association, and a Minnesota cheese contest. They began their dairy dream in 2002 by purchasing a plot of land in Estancia, forging fences, erecting a building, and buying two Nubian goats. In July 2007, they opened their dairy with a Grade A dairy license and started selling their popular and award-winning chèvre. In 2008, they started making semi-soft cheeses such as McIntosh Cheddar, Sandia Sunrise Gouda, and Manzano Blue Moon. They attribute their dairy’s success and growth to their customers and to partnerships with other farms and local businesses. These relationships have created jobs, boosted economic stability, and increased the number of handcrafted cheeses made in New Mexico. What do you love most about local food? Ed: I love several things about local food. I love that it is a medium for my artistic expression. I love the sense of community. I believe we provide a healthy delicious product that provides sustenance for our community. I love that we can participate in a collaborative way with other food producers. I love that food is the center of gatherings and conversation. To me it is like having the front porch where your friends, neighbors, and family get together. We get to be part of that environment at farmers markets, food shows, restaurants, tailgate parties, and much more. Michael: The thing I like most about local food is it usually comes from 6

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a smaller producer who really takes care with their produce or their product. It’s more personal than factory-farmed food. Also you know where it came from and that when you buy it, it supports people you know. We’d like to know a little more about you. Tell us about some of your favorite things. About what you love about being a grown up. Ed: This may sound cheesey but I love going to other cities and exploring other dairies and cheese shops. I also love having a lazy day, basking in the sun on a warm beach, people watching. Michael: Best part of adulthood is realizing that all the things you thought were so important as a young adult do not really matter once you hit a certain age (fifty). You feel you have your groove going, and enjoy where you are in life. What do you love most about your work with Old Windmill? Michael: I love creating a great product! I love to see folks when they are enjoying my labor of love. Ed: I love hearing about people's positive experiences with our product because both Michael and I take this personally. It is our art, our love, and our passion. It is one form of payback that makes the hard work worth it. How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? Michael: The moment that got me to start making cheese occurred after many years working in a corporate environment. I was tired of working for someone else and needed a change. Most people are surprised to learn I was not raised on a farm, nor had I made cheese before opening this business.

Ed: I think most people know by now, Michael worked for corporate America as a hotel general manager and he finally decided enough is enough. Farming was a dream for him. As for myself, I love animals and love working with food and being creative. Together we make a great team. He runs the dairy, which is no small undertaking. There are so many levels of responsibility with herd management, staffing, cheesemaking, sales, USDA, FDA, and third party audits. As for myself, I share responsibility in herd management, staffing, marketing, and product development. It all started with a dream and a long wish list. We are constantly achieving the dream with strong family and community support. It is funny looking back at Michael and I putting up fencing, plumbing the building, milking goats, making cheese, selling cheese. Now it is much bigger than he and I can handle alone. We are so grateful for the people who work for the dairy. Michael, if you weren’t running Old Windmill, what would you be doing? Michael: Nothing else comes to mind. People ask this question often, but I can’t think of a single thing I would rather be doing, workwise. Off work, more vacations. What gets you fired up? Michael: When someone answers a question with a question and people who can't say please or thank you. Ed, what question do you often get? And, what do you really wish people would ask you? Ed: The question people always ask me is, are your products certified organic? But I wish they'd ask me, are your animals healthy? What are your farming practices? Certified organic conjures up a mystical belief that it must be healthy. I am sure it is in many instances, but it is not always the case. I don't see people eating the briar patch that is organic. What makes sense to me is that our animals have a balanced diet, mineral, proteins, greens, and nutritional food that provides for a long, prosperous, healthy life. The farm does not benefit from having unhealthy animals. We take pride in our herd and our practices. What are people most surprised to learn about you? Ed: Most people are surprised to learn that I work a full time job, still, as a nurse practitioner. It is funny to hear our friends and peers say I don't know how you do it. Truth is, we both love what we do. I get excited most days about going to the farmers market, going to the fiery food show, and going to the farm. I love the diversity of my life. Nurse practitioner by week, farmer by weekends. If you knew you wouldn’t fail, what would you try? Ed: I would open a cheese shop or perhaps climb Mount McKinley. Both seem exhilarating to me and I like hard work. I love the dream of a challenge.

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Is there anything you'd like to share with edible readers? Ed: Michael and I are very proud and honored that people buy our cheeses and love coming out to the farm.

100 E. San Francisco St. • Santa Fe, NM 87501 505-995-2334 • www.lafondasantafe.com/la-plazuela

www.theoldwindmilldairy.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

LOCAL HEROES

Street Food Institute BEST FOOD TRUCK

Top row, left to right: Dave Sellers, Justin Rabold, Ray Mancha, Joe Meyers, Marcus Montoya, Chloe Delillo-Vogt, Baby Elijah, and Julian Griego. Kneeling: Jason Gleichman and Joslynn Gutierrez.

David Sellers is the program director of the Street Food Institute. He began his culinary career twenty years ago as a baker in an all-organic bakery where he developed a deep appreciation for sustainable, local, from-scratch cooking. These pillars became the basis of his cooking philosophy. Sellers moved on to cook in San Francisco and then Santa Fe, where he spent ten years as chef of the venerable SantacafĂŠ. He opened his own restaurant, Amavi, to critical acclaim, where both the cuisine and the wine focused on the Mediterranean region. Most recently Dave turned his culinary exploration to New England, where he spent four years as the chef of Maxfish, delving deeply into cooking with fish and into the world farm-to-table dining. Regional cuisine and teaching ChefofDavid Sellers (top left) with past SFI students Vernon Pajarito, andHere Alfredo have alwaysCarrie been Avritt, a top priority for Sellers. he Trujillo. shares with edible readers a little bit about himself and his work at the Street Food Institute. What has the Street Food Institute been up to? We have three different arms in our entrepreneurship training program, two based in the Central New Mexico Community College 8

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and Santa Fe Community College culinary programs and one at the Mixing Bowl, a community kitchen in Albuquerqueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s South Valley. We also work extensively with community outreach programs that focus on local food education, bringing locally grown foods to food deserts in Albuquerque, raising awareness about healthy eating, and creating healthy, inexpensive alternatives to fast food. We promote the food truck/mobile food industry in New Mexico, partly by working to restructure ordinances regulating mobile food businesses in both Albuquerque and Santa Fe. What do you love most about local food? Why? It tastes better. The local food scene is so important on so many levels. It creates sustainable jobs, keeps jobs within the community, keeps money within the community, creates small businesses, increases healthy food options, increases community health and well being, decreases carbon footprints from transporting foodstuffs, allows restaurants and businesses to serve higher quality

products, raises the quality bar of food across the board, just to name a few. We’d like to get to know you a little better, tell us about some of your favorite things. My favorite way to spend a day off is outside with my wife and two boys. Winter sports in the winter, camping and hiking in the warmer months. I also love to cook at home during down time. What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? Serendipity. After cooking for many years in Santa Fe, my family and I moved to the East Coast to be closer to family—which we loved—but we hated the locale, so thought about heading back to the West. At my brother-in-law's wedding in Tennessee, his best man was an old work associate who worked for the Street Food Institute. He told me of a possible opportunity for a chef's job with the organization. A few weeks later I was flown out to interview and the rest is history. Tell us something most people don’t know about you. I cook at home most of my days off. I am very fortunate to have a love that I never tire of, and it just happens to be my job as well. What makes you laugh? Being in the kitchen makes me laugh. I love the constant camaraderie and great times to be had with all of the unique people in my profession. Never a dull moment. What gets you fired up? Cooking! It is a lifelong passion for me that will never run dry. There are no two days alike in the cooking business. I don't know what I would do if I had a life where I was stuck behind a desk. Is there anything you'd like to share with edible readers? I would love to share some of the amazing opportunities that our program creates. If you’re interested in learning more about our work or getting involved, visit our website, www.streetfoodinstitute. org. You can learn where to find our truck (we’re often at Marble or Tractor breweries) and more about what we’re doing. www.streetfoodinstitute.org

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

LOCAL HEROES

Radish & Rye BEST RESTAURANT, SANTA FE

The Radish & Rye team: Quinn Stephenson, Chef David Gaspar de Alba, Camille Bremer, and Dru Ruebush.

Camille Bremer and Dru Ruebush own and operate Radish & Rye. Born and raised in Vienna, Austria to American parents, Bremer grew up in an environment where she was exposed to multiple traditions and customs. This experience deeply influenced her work in fine dining establishments. She moved to Santa Fe in 2012, where she worked at the world famous Geronimo. There, she had the great fortune to work with some of Santa Fe’s most talented individuals, including her friend and business partner, Quinn Stephenson. Dru’s passion for food and the farm began as a young boy picking radishes on his grandparents’ farm in southern New Mexico. After graduating from New Mexico State with a degree in music, he moved to New York City to continue his studies. There he took his first restaurant job and got hooked on the business. Dru has held every position, both front and back of house, from the dish pit to line cook, and from bartender to the front door. His ideas about food pull from his southern New Mexico roots while using classic techniques, and he is so grateful to have the opportunity to share the wonderful bounty that his home state has to offer.

Dru: Flavor! When you're eating local food, you're eating fresh food. So much of the food we buy, even at stores like Whole Foods, was picked, butchered, or packaged weeks ago. Time is the enemy of fresh food, so to be able to eat food within days, or sometimes hours, of when it was picked or butchered makes a huge difference in taste and flavor. On a less selfish note, I love being able to help support the hardworking individuals who dedicate their lives to producing local food. I come from a long line of farmers, and I know the dedication it takes to bring a radish from seed to table. Nothing inspires me more than to talk to Robert Kyzer about his pigs. The passion he has for his work is an inspiration, and being able to share his product with our guests is what it's all about. We’d like to get to know you a little better, so we ask irreverently: What do you like best about being a grown up? What do you do on your days off?

What do you love most about local food?

Dru: The best part of being an adult is having the freedom to control my own destiny. Knowing that I'm responsible for the direction of my life, and using that sense of responsibility to make my dreams come true.

Camille: I love the seasonality of local food. I also love supporting local vendors and farmers around the state.

Camille: For me? I love San Francisco. Being able to travel, not having a bedtime, taking long showers, going out to dinner, wine, coffee,

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

spontaneity, being able to make decisions, earning money, being friends with my Mom and Dad. On my days off I love spending time with my partner Dru and our dogs. Dru: I'm so busy with the restaurant and working on new projects. When I'm able to take a day off, I take the opportunity to catch up on all my reading. I want to be on top of the trends in our business, so I read over a dozen different trade magazines every month. It's a vital component of my drive and ambition. If you could take someone to lunch, who would it be and why? Dru: If I had the chance, I would have lunch with Sam Fox at any one of his restaurants. I'd like to ask him how he went from owning three or four restaurants in Tucson to owning over thirty restaurants in multiple states in a matter of ten years. Dru, what has growing up in southern New Mexico taught you? Dru: Growing up in a small town in New Mexico taught me a lot about the importance of community and relationships. It's important to take the time to stop and talk to your neighbor, or your butcher, or the guy who changes the oil in your car. Those relationships hold treasures you might never find if you don't pause and allow them to unfold. It's one of the very best parts about being a restaurateur: building relationships with guests, and vendors, and employees. If you knew you wouldn’t fail, what would you try? Dru: I'd put together a band with the best musicians in their field and I'd be the front man, singing country and blues.

Crepes • Tortas • Handmade Pies 3222 Silver Avenue SE, Albuquerque 505.266.0607 • freshcitrus.us

Camille, what makes you laugh? Camille: Our staff at Radish & Rye. We have an amazing team and we all laugh a lot. What gets you fired up? Dru: Excellence gets me fired up. Knowing that someone cares enough to dedicate their lives to something. Whether it's raising hogs, writing songs, or waiting tables. People who give one hundred and ten percent inspire me to do the same. Camille: People who are passionate about what they are doing! What do you love most about your work?

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Camille: I love interacting with our guests because sharing the love for what I do everyday makes everyday pretty awesome. What’s new? Dru and Camille: Developing new concepts in Albuquerque and organizing quarterly fundraisers through our bourbon dinners. The last bourbon dinner fundraiser was for the Santa Fe Farmers Market Institute. The next bourbon dinner is slated for May 4. Is there anything you'd like to share with edible readers? Dru and Camille: We are so grateful and humbled by the support our community has given us. Thank you! www.radishandrye.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

FRONT OF THE HOUSE

Mancini's Modern Olive Oil BREZZA TIRRENA

Story by Katherine Mast

Top: Mancini's olive oil being strained after pressing. Middle left: Olive tree orchards in Fondi, Italy. Lower left: Mancini pruning olive trees. Above: Mancini in his Albuquerque kitchen. Photo by Stephanie Cameron. Photos from Italy courtesy of Brezza Tirrena. 12

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Two hours south of Rome, near the town of Fondi on Italy’s western coast, the warm, Tyrrhenian breeze blows over the shore. It keeps the temperature of the region relatively stable and means that John Mancini can harvest his olives from early in October—for his peppery Olio Presto variety—into late December—to produce a more mellow Olio Maturo. When I met Mancini in Albuquerque in February, a medley of mouthwatering aromas wafted from his kitchen. Cauliflower and potatoes, lightly seasoned with salt and pepper and sautéed in his Brezza Tirrena extra-virgin olive oil, waited at the kitchen island. As Mancini sliced tomatoes and mushrooms for a pasta sauce, he paused often to dive enthusiastically into storytelling. Three short years ago, Mancini purchased his first olive orchard in Fondi. Since 2013, he’s added three more orchards and now tends one thousand trees, with plans to expand the operation. Originally from southwestern Pennsylvania, Mancini has lived in New Mexico for several decades, but his name belies his Italian roots. In fact, he discovered by surprise that the first orchard he bought had once belonged to another Mancini. Olive oil has long been part of Mediterranean cuisine and culture. Its residue is even found inside ancient clay lamps. Producing olive oil now “is like entering into a philosophical conversation that’s been going on two or three or four thousand years,” says Mancini. But he is ready to take the modern dialogue in a new direction, and he has some very specific goals. Frankly, he wants to deliver the best. To do that, Mancini is involved at every step of the process. He travels between Albuquerque and Fondi three or four times a year to prune his trees, tend the orchards, harvest the olives, and press the oil. Olive oil has three enemies, Mancini says: light, heat, and oxygen. Subject quality oil to any of these and it will start to degrade in flavor and in health benefits. And so, Mancini makes sure to limit these elements at every turn. The process starts with an extraction method that keeps temperatures low and minimizes oxidation, and by

the time it reaches market, his oil is protected in light-tight stainless steel bottles. Remove the cork and you’ll find a vibrant green aromatic oil that barely resembles even the highest-end oil available on a supermarket shelf. It tastes alive and complex. And while taste is all well and good, Mancini is most concerned with the health benefits. When you swallow a bit of Brezza Tirrena, it nips at the back of your throat. That biting sensation comes from oleocanthal, one of the many phenolic—or aromatic— compounds in extra-virgin olive oil. The stronger the sting, the more oleocanthal in the oil. Oleocanthal has been linked to a variety of health benefits in recent years. In 2005, Nature reported that oleocanthal had anti-inflammatory properties similar to ibuprofen. Just last year, a study published in Molecular and Cellular Oncology found that the compound could destroy cancer cells while leaving healthy cells intact. It may help ward off Alzheimer's and prevent certain kinds of cancers from forming in the first place. Olive oil can also help lower a person’s (bad) LDL cholesterol while increasing the (good) HDL. While oleocanthal is evident in the flavor of good olive oil, Mancini doesn’t settle for a taste test to compare his oils to others; he’s hired a chemist to keep tabs on how Brezza Tirrena stacks up to seventy-five store-bought brands—including varieties from specialty olive oil shops. He also sends samples to the World Olive Labs in Richmond, Virginia, which tests and maintains a database of the phenolic compounds of more than two thousand olive oils from around the world. Mancini’s oils rank in the top three percent for the overall content of phenols. Last year, Mancini sold his oil at Albuquerque’s Rail Yards Market, but he’s been working on a new membership model. Members of the Brezza Tirrena Olive Oil Club can have a bottle of Maturo, Presto, or Peperoncino—a delicious oil infused with spicy Italian peppers—delivered once a month or every three months, bright and fresh to their doorsteps.

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BACK OF THE HOUSE

Above: Chef Thomas Hartwell. Top right: Flourless chocolate torte garnished with raspberry coulis. Bottom right: Sirloin steak and heirloom cauliflower.

Red Sage Redefined

CHEF THOMAS HARTWELL BRINGS UPSCALE COMFORT FOOD TO THE PUEBLO By Candolin Cook · Photos by Stephanie Cameron Pulling up to Hilton Santa Fe’s Buffalo Thunder Resort and Casino on the Pojoaque Pueblo, I have two things that keep running through my mind: the earworm that is Buffalo Thunder’s signature jingle (“At the playground, Santa Fe’s playground…”) and my puzzlement as to why edible Santa Fe has sent me to write an article about a casino restaurant. I envision a dining area similar to a casino floor: loud in both decibels and décor. But as I enter the casino’s upscale Red Sage Restaurant, I am struck by how inviting the space is. Windows line the entire back wall, providing a stunning view of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains; an immense glass wine cel14

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lar showcases the restaurant’s award-winning selection; and an open kitchen looks onto a sleek modern dining room tastefully accented with contemporary Native American art. Red Sage’s new executive chef, Thomas Hartwell, greets me with a wide, toothy grin and reminds me of a more jovial John Wayne. I learn Hartwell’s culinary background is as diverse as it is impressive. He trained at Michelin star restaurants in West Germany and France; cooked at various high-end hotels and resorts; and managed UCLA’s dining services department. His most recent post, as chef for the highly acclaimed Spanish tapas eatery Zuzu,

in Napa, California, allowed for recipe-swaps with Thomas Keller and bicycle commutes through wine country. Although Hartwell speaks affectionately about his years cooking in Napa Valley, he and his wife were ready for a change and decided to relocate to New Mexico in late 2014. He officially became the executive chef at Red Sage in December. I confess to Chef Hartwell that I am pleasantly surprised by Red Sage’s atmosphere, and that I expected something a bit more casino-y. “That [perception] is our biggest obstacle in terms of tapping into the local market,” he says. “We have a truly warm and relaxing envi-

ronment. There just happens to be a casino in the basement.” Hartwell would also like locals to realize they don’t have to spend a whole weekend here to enjoy the resort and restaurant. “You can come up for the afternoon, enjoy the spa or golf course, or just come for a meal.” Since beginning his tenure as executive chef, Hartwell has developed a straightforward strategy to attract more local clientele. “We need to get the word out that we are accessible, then give people a reason to visit here, and give them a reason to come back.” Reasons to visit include seasonal menus featuring locally sourced ingredients; new happy hour specials (largely aimed at Los Alamos commuters); and the recent acquisition of the ever-elusive Pappy Van Winkle bourbon. “I’m very proud of that. There’s only two or three places in New Mexico that serve it.” Hartwell explains that because of chef turnover in the past, Red Sage has suffered from a bit of an identity problem. Over the past few months, Hartwell and his team “took a lot of time talking about what we wanted Red Sage to be. The conclusion we came to is to go back to the restaurant’s original intent, which was the marriage of New Mexico’s historic food cultures (Native American, Spanish, Mexican, Anglo, and New Mexican) and do it in a way no one else is.” Because of the transition to a new chef, Red Sage has only recently updated its winter menu, which now includes Hartwell’s favorite dish, a crispy-skin salmon fillet with a butternut squash puree, and a black bean and corn salad. An homage to the three sisters, the dish is representative of Red Sage’s renewed commitment to engaging with its Pueblo community. Hartwell’s face lights up as he describes the restaurant’s new partnership with the Pueblo’s Tewa Farm. “At the beginning of last year, [former Pojoaque Pueblo Governor] George Rivera came to us and told us about the farm. He asked, ‘Why can’t we use that produce here?’ We said, ‘Give us everything you have.’” Last year the farm provided fingerling potatoes, torpedo onions, celery, and chiles. This year, Hartwell says, Tewa Farm is diversifying and expanding their production to keep up with the restaurant’s demand. Row covers and greenhouse modifications will cre-

ate more favorable conditions for delicate greens, such as mizuna, baby lettuces, and microgreens. Hartwell has also recently collaborated with the Pueblo’s bison program, where students learn to butcher whole animals, and he plans on starting an internship program with the Pueblo’s high school. “We want to get involved with the community as much as we can.” Participation in charity and community food events in Santa Fe has helped Red Sage expose more locals to its food. One example: competing in edible Santa Fe’s Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown at the Railyard in September. Chef Hartwell’s burger consisted of a beef and buffalo patty basted in red chile, then grilled with onions and tomatoes, and topped with green chile, sharp white cheddar, and a brioche bun. To my dismay, Hartwell tells me they have recently taken the burger off Red Sage’s dinner menu. “Don’t worry,” he reassures, “it is still on the secret menu and people in-the-know order it all the time.” Although Red Sage’s menu reflects a host of sophisticated techniques and unique ingredients (think huitlacoche, yuzu, padrones, and heirloom cauliflower), its chef says his palate has become simpler since leaving the foodie-fantasy world of Napa Valley. He clarifies: “I like when simple foods are done elegantly. New Mexico has shown me that fry bread, sopapillas, a green chile cheeseburger—those things can be truly beautiful.” I ask him where he likes to eat out on a day off. “I’m growing an affection for the Loyal Hound Pub in Santa Fe. They do great corn dogs! Anybody who does corn dogs I’m okay with.” Red Sage brands itself as a New American Grill—a somewhat ambiguous term that basically means modern fusion cuisine. Hartwell, however, prefers to think of his dishes as upscale comfort food. “I really want to make people feel comfortable here. I don’t consider it fine dining; there are no white tablecloths. But the restaurant is beautifully designed, and there’s a lot of talent. I think the food will stand up to anybody in town.” 20 Buffalo Thunder, 505-819-2056 www.buffalothunderresort.com

BEHIND THE BOTTLE

Tyler Jensen pours a flight at the Heart of the Desert tasting room in Mesilla. Photo courtesy of Heart of the Desert.

Touring Winegrowing Country A ONE-DAY WINE TOUR IN SOUTHERN NEW MEXICO By Cameron Weber If you suffer the singular association of a wine-tasting adventure with cruising California’s Napa Valley à la Sideways, then prepare yourself to get away to New Mexico’s winegrowing region for a story of your own. Formed by the rich deposits of spring floods of the earlier, wilder Rio Grande, the Mesilla Valley is fertile ground, and the acres devoted to winegrowing steadily increase. The wineries here are conveniently clustered together—ideal for a one-day wine tour that 16

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

capitalizes on the proximity and diversity of wineries situated in the heart of New Mexico’s wine country. There are two centers to the universe of southern New Mexican wine. Located just southwest of Las Cruces, the old village of Mesilla is an eminently historical and charming destination. Deming is a small town located at a historical crossroads, lying approximately at the center of the Silver City-Columbus and Lordsburg-Las Cruces nexus.

Begin your tour of the wines of the Mesilla Valley on the south end at (1) Rio Grande Vineyards and Winery, where owners Gordon and Sandi Steel welcome you to their huge patio, overlooking ten acres of vines and summed up by Sandi as “the best view of the valley.” On summer Sunday afternoons, live music on the patio sets a beat for sampling from their twenty-five different wines and four wine sangrias.

DOUBLE GOLD

2016 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition Jaramillo Vineyard 2013 Native Sun 2015 San Francisco International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2009 Reserve Aglianico 2015 Tasters Guild International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2009 Reserve Aglianico Luna Rossa Winery 2008 Reserve Nebbiolo 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition Noisy Water Winery 2013 Wine Maker’s Select Merlot

GOLD

2015 Denver International Wine Competition Casa Abril Vineyards 2014 Sol y Luna 2015 Tasters Guild International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery Sangria Luna Rossa Winery 2007 Reserve Barbera Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Tempranillo 2015 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition Wines of the San Juan Pinot Grigio 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2008 Reserve Nebbiolo Noisy Water Winery Curtain Call Noisy Water Winery Ruidoso Bubbly Ponderosa Valley Vineyards 2011 Sangiovese 2015 Riverside International Wine Competition Heart of the Desert Sweet Gewürztraminer (Chairman’s Award) 2015 Beverage Testing Institute St Clair Winery 2013 Malvasia Bianca

SILVER

2016 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition Jaramillo Vineyards 2013 Barbera Jaramillo Vineyards 2013 Cabernet Franc Jaramillo Vineyards 2013 Petit Verdot Gruet Winery Blanc de Blancs Gruet Winery Blanc de Noirs 2015 Denver International Wine Competition Casa Abril Vineyards 2013 Sangiovese Casa Abril Vineyards 2014 Malbec Casa Abril Vineyards 2014 Zinfandel Casa Abril Vineyards 2014 Tempranillo 2015 TEXSOM International Wine Competition Gruet Winery 2010 Grand Rose 2015 Tasters Guild International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2014 Chardonnay Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Sangiovese Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Luna Rossa Winery 2014 Chenin Blanc

2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition Black Mesa Winery 2012 Malbec Black Mesa Winery 2012 Merlot Jaramillo Vineyards 2013 Chambourcin La Chiripada Winery 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon La Chiripada Winery 2012 Petite Sirah La Chiripada Winery 2014 Viognier Luna Rossa Winery 2013 Moscato Luna Rossa Winery 2009 Reserve Aglianico Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Tempranillo Noisy Water Winery Bella Rosa Noisy Water Winery 2013 Black Muscat Noisy Water Winery Divine Intervention Ponderosa Valley Vineyards 2013 Chardonnay Rio Grande Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Beverage Testing Institute St Clair Winery 2014 DH Lescombes Sauvignon Blanc St Clair Winery 2014 Gewürztraminer St Clair Winery 2014 Pinot Grigio St Clair Winery 2013 Riesling

BRONZE

2016 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition Gruet Winery Brut Rose 2015 TEXSOM International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition Wines of the San Juan Dry Blue Winged Olive Wines of the San Juan 2011 Serendipity Merlot Wines of the San Juan Chardonnay Wines of the San Juan 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Tasters Guild International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2013 Malbec Luna Rossa Winery 2014 Dry Riesling Luna Rossa Winery 2014 Pinot Grigio 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition Black’s Smuggler Winery 2013 Baco Noir Black’s Smuggler Winery Sandia Rose Camino Real Winery 2014 Chardonnay Jaramillo Vineyards 2013 Cabernet Franc Jaramillo Vineyards 2013 Tempranillo La Chiripada Winery 2012 Dolcetto La Chiripada Winery 2014 Riesling Luna Rossa Winery 2007 Reserve Barbera Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Sangiovese Noisy Water Winery 2013 Reserve Chardonnay Noisy Water Winery 2012 Dolcetto Noisy Water Winery El Cabron Viejo Noisy Water Winery La Vida Dulce Noisy Water Winery Moscato Noisy Water Winery Relleno Brothers Malvasia Bianca Noisy Water Winery 2013 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Noisy Water Winery 2013 Riesling Noisy Water Winery Tighty Whitey Rio Grande Vineyards & Winery Sangiovese

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BEHIND THE BOTTLE

Both Luna Rossa Winery (left) and Amaro Winery (right) provide elegant tasting rooms to enjoy their offerings.

After the four-mile drive to Old Mesilla, park your touring vehicle, and appreciate the streets of the village on foot. Two smaller tasting stops await you. (2) Vintage Wines, a cozy tasting room operated by Black Range Winery in an 1850s adobe building, offers a list of selected New Mexico wines, a menu of tasty tapas, and a good-time feel. The wines you’ll encounter here come from wineries across the state. Stroll through the village to another wine and gift shop, (3) Heart of the Desert, showcasing local and regional wines, and offering six samples for five dollars.

deavor. At their Mesilla tasting room, you can order up wood-fired pizza or fresh-made pasta. In the same Old World spirit, each vine on their three-hundred-acre vineyard is bench-grafted, transplanted, and tended for production, yielding twenty-three different wines sourced solely from their estate-grown grapes. Ask Sylvia about what makes this place a local favorite while you taste, or stay for a glass. If you have two days to tour, stop at their vineyard and winery in Deming for a free tasting (six wines), a winery tour (schedule ahead), and a walk in the vineyard.

A moment’s drive north of Old Mesilla is (4) St. Clair Winery’s Las Cruces Bistro, where you’ll find an extensive selection of New Mexico wines in addition to those produced by St. Clair Winery. If you aren’t able to stop by the winery and vineyard further on, in Deming, the setting here won’t leave you disappointed. And if this is the moment you’re ready to sit down for a meal, the bistro serves fine food for lunch and dinner on a stately patio.

The final stop will place you near downtown Las Cruces at (6) Amaro Winery. This convivial gathering place provides a perfect ending to your tasting adventure. Amaro focuses on educating people on wine tasting and on building community as a local hangout. Food trucks arrive on Friday evenings, and many nights they host live music.

Next on the tour is (5) Luna Rossa Winery & Pizzeria, where the craftsmanship of winemaking and viticulture are priority for owners Paolo and Sylvia D’Andrea. Paolo, a fourth-generation winegrower from Italy, has grown grapes in New Mexico since 1986. Transplanting their love of Italian food and wine to the Mesilla Valley, the D’Andreas start from scratch in every en18

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

These six stops are manageable for a oneday tour; add a second afternoon to walk the vineyards and tour the wineries at St. Clair and Luna Rossa in Deming, just sixty miles west of Las Cruces. Wine touring is a fundamentally casual way to explore our region. Any of these suggestions about how and where to wine tour (and how not to) can be ignored. You will learn what you need to know as soon as you start cruising the Mesilla Valley!

1. Rio Grande Vineyards and Winery 5321 Highway 28, 575-524-3985 www.riograndewinery.com 2. Vintage Wines 2461 Calle Principal, Mesilla 575-635-8480 www.blackrangevineyards.com/ vintage-wines-of-mesilla 3. Heart of the Desert 2355 Calle de Guadalupe, Mesilla 575-647-2115, www.heartofthedesert.com 4. St. Clair Las Cruces Bistro 1720 Avenida de Mesilla, Las Cruces 575-524-2408, www.stclairwinery.com 5. Luna Rossa Winery 1321 Avenida de Mesilla, Las Cruces 575-544-1160, www.lunarossawinery.com 6. Amaro Winery 402 South Melendres Street, Las Cruces 575-527-5310, www.amarowinerynm.com

ETS O N

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UQUERQU ALB E

GENERATIONS A CELEBRATION OF FOOD, WINE & ART BENEFITTING NEW MEXICO CHILDREN’S ARTS EDUCATION PROGRAMS

VINTAGE ALBUQUERQUE

THE 25TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION SUPPORTING THE ALBUQUERQUE YOUTH SYMPHONY PROGRAM ART IN THE SCHOOL | NATIONAL DANCE INSTITUTE OF NEW MEXICO NEW MEXICO JAZZ WORKSHOP | NEW MEXICO PHILHARMONIC

WED JUNE 22 SAT JUNE 25, 2016 FEATURING HONORARY CHAIR CHUCK WAGNER OF CAYMUS VINEYARDS

VINTAGEALBUQUERQUE.ORG VINTAGE ALBUERQUE IS A 501C3 NON- PROFIT CHARITABLE ORGANIZATION

SPECIAL THANKS:

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itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s closer than you think.. Local ingredients, served locally. We seek out the freshest, seasonal organic produce, meats and fish. Then we serve it up with flair and attentive service right in your neighborhood. Join locals supporting locals. Deliciously.

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edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

ALBUQUERQUE, SANTA FE 505.850.2459 TasteABQ.com

COOKING FRESH

The Ark of Taste in Tucson DESIGNATED UNESCO WORLD CITY OF GASTRONOMY By Megan Kimble ∙ Illustrations by Robert J. Long

Brown and White Tepary Bean WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

On December 11, 2015, the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) designated Tucson a World City of Gastronomy, making it the first city in the US to receive such a designation. The designation added Tucson to UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network, created in 2004 to promote cooperation among cities that have identified creativity as a strategic factor for sustainable urban development. Tucson joined forty-six other cities in being added to the Creative Cities Network in 2015. The one hundred sixteen cities in this network collaborate toward a common objective: placing creativity and cultural industries at the heart of their development plans at the local level, and cooperating actively at the international level. “The Tucson Basin deserves this honor, not only for having some of the oldest continually farmed landscapes in North America, but also for emerging as a global hotbed for ideas on relocalizing food economies and growing food in a hotter, drier climate,” says Gary Paul Nabhan, an ethnobotanist and professor at the University of Arizona’s Southwest Center. “From food banks, seed libraries, and farmers markets, to community gardens, community kitchens, and literary luminaries writing on food and culture, we serve as a nursery grounds for new innovations, not merely to preserve our food heritage.”

breeds, cheeses, breads, sweets, and cured meats from cultures around the world. Each nomination must be rare or endangered; regionally or historically unique; sustainably produced or harvested; and have distinctive flavor, texture, and culinary uses. Baja Arizona is home to a remarkable diversity of desert specialties. Of the one thousand seven hundred products from fifty countries included on the Ark of Taste— one hundred seventy four from the US—twelve come from southern Arizona alone. We asked five Baja Arizona chefs to create a recipe inspired by one of these ingredients.

BROWN AND WHITE TEPARY BEAN TEPARY BEAN CASSOULET Doug Levy, Feast

Tucson has the longest agricultural history of any city in North America, extending back more than four thousand years. But it is not just the city’s past—an uninterrupted lineage of food—that warrants attention. “It’s about using our unique food culture as a means for economic development,” says Jonathan Mabry, the historic preservation officer for the City of Tucson, who researched and wrote much of the application to UNESCO. Joining UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network “presents an opportunity for Tucson’s chefs, farmers, and ranchers, as well as our businesses, academic institutions, and nonprofits, to be represented on the world stage,” says Tucson Mayor Jonathan Rothschild. “I’d like our tourism bureau to be able to tout this designation as yet another great reason to visit Tucson.” The designation also offers an opportunity for Tucson to look inward—to galvanize the community to action in addressing the challenges that still exist in the local food system. “Like any other honor or designation, it’s what we do with the City of Gastronomy award that matters,” says Nabhan. “If we want to use it to reduce food insecurity, obesity, and diabetes, let’s do it. If we want to use it to jump-start new food micro-enterprises, let’s go for it. What matters to me most about this designation is that it builds a collaboration among the city and county governments, the University of Arizona, our grassroots alliance, nonprofits, and businesses—one that will now endure.”

The Ark of Taste, a vision of the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity, is a celebration and living catalog of regionally distinctive foods that face extinction. These place-based and artisanal quality nominations represent an extraordinary heritage of fruits, vegetables, animal 22

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

3 cups brown tepary beans, covered in water and soaked overnight 1/2 cup onion, finely diced 1/2 cup celery, finely diced 1/2 cup carrots, finely diced 3 tablespoons duck fat (substitute lard or butter) 1 1/2 teaspoons espresso grounds 1 1/2 teaspoons cocoa powder 6 cups veal stock (substitute chicken or vegetable stock) 1 1/2 tablespoons brown sugar 1 teaspoon ancho chile powder Salt and pepper In a deep saucepan over medium heat, sauté beans and vegetables in duck fat until they begin to soften. In a medium stock pot over medium heat, warm the stock. Add hot stock, cocoa, sugar, ancho chile powder, and coffee to the beans. Simmer until soft. Season to taste. Feast • 3719 E Speedway Blvd, Tucson, Arizona 520-326-9363, www.eatatfeast.com

Bocadillos Sandwich Shop—slow roasted meats with house-made sauces and sides. Fresh local food with heart and soul!

The Albuquerque Taproom features 27 taps, hard cider, wine, three TVs and a rooftop patio. A must for beer lovers!

Rustic 505 on the Green’s gourmet burgers are made to order with freshly ground chuck and local Fano brioche buns.

Organic and all-natural juices and smoothies made with the freshest produce and healthiest ingredients.

Fresh Baja street-style tacos and wings with an epicurian twist. Catering available. Mention this ad in edible and receive 10% off.

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New Mexico’s first and only certified Neapolitan pizzeria! Decorating Neapolitan recipes with house-made fresh ingredients and local flavor.

Southwestern chicken fettuccine, delicious quesadillas, Caesar salads, award-winning soups and crowd-pleasing gourmet dogs.

Unique fashion-forward athletic apparel for women, men and girls. Awesome customer loyalty program! Fashionlockers.com

Proudly serving handcrafted beverages from certified fair-trade and organic beans, perfectly paired with local pastries.

Delicious handcrafted liquid nitrogen ice cream, made in front of your eyes with the freshest organic ingredients.

Our Albuquerque distillers create authentic craft spirits using locally sourced ingredients.

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Green-Striped Cashew Squash GREEN-STRIPED CASHEW SQUASH CALABAZA CON QUESO Diana Teran, Mexico in Season

1 calabaza (green-striped cashew squash) 2 large tomatoes, diced 1 large onion, diced 1 pound peppers (Anaheim or poblano), roasted and diced 1 tablespoon olive oil 6 ounces cheese, shredded 4 ounces cream cheese, cut into cubes 1 tablespoon salt 4 precooked ears of corn on the cob, sliced into 4 pieces each; or 6 ounces of corn kernels 24

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

Preheat oven to 350˚ F. Slice calabaza lengthwise and remove seeds. Roast face up on a rimmed baking sheet for 30 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool for about 10 minutes. Peel skin and cut into 1/4-inch pieces. Heat a large pot over medium heat, add olive oil and onions, and sauté for a few minutes. Add all other vegetables, and salt. Cover for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add cheese, cream cheese, and corn. Reduce heat to low and cook for an additional 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Turn off and remove from heat; let sit for about 5 minutes. Serve with tortilla chips, fresh cilantro, and lime wedges. Mexico in Season • 3820 S Palo Verde, Tucson, Arizona 520-990-8913, www.facebook.com/Mexicoinseason

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Mesquite Pod

Filling 1 medium onion, chopped 3 cloves garlic, sliced thin 1 medium head cauliflower, broken into florets,

stems chopped into bite size pieces

8 ounces beech mushrooms, broken up into

individual stems

2 sprigs fresh thyme (reserve one sprig for topping) 1/2 cup grape tomatoes, halved lengthwise 1/4 cup olive oil, plus 1 tablespoon 2 teaspoons salt, divided 1/4 teaspoon turmeric 1/3 cup soft goat cheese 1/4 cup buttermilk Pepper

MESQUITE-POD FLOUR CAULIFLOWER & MUSHROOM MESQUITE TART

Erika Bostick and Jake Alpert, The Coronet Crust 1 cup mesquite flour 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

Toss cauliflower pieces, mushrooms, and tomatoes in the olive oil and 1 teaspoon salt. Spread on two baking sheets and top with separated stems from one sprig of thyme. Roast in 350˚ F oven for 20 minutes or until cauliflower is browned on the edges. (Reserve all the tomatoes and 1/4 each of cauliflower and mushrooms for the topping of tart.) In a sauté pan over medium heat, lightly brown onions and garlic, about 15 minutes. Place the onions and garlic in food processor along with the remaining cauliflower and mushrooms as well as the salt, goat cheese, and buttermilk. Pulse until just combined; consistency should be chunky. Fill the tart shell and decoratively top with the reserved tomatoes, cauliflower florets, and mushrooms. Remove leaves from thyme sprig and sprinkle over all. Add pepper to taste. Bake for 20 minutes, then rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. The Coronet • 402 E 9th, Tucson, Arizona 520-222-9889, www.cafecoronet.com

1 teaspoon granulated sugar Pinch of kosher salt 1 stick cold butter 3 1/2 tablespoons cold heavy cream 1/8 teaspoon ground juniper (optional) Preheat oven to 350˚ F. Mix dry ingredients in a chilled bowl. Using a wide-tooth grater, grate butter into the dry ingredients, tossing with a fork until well coated. Add cold cream and mix until the dough holds together. Do not overmix. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to relax the gluten and chill the butter before rolling. Sprinkle table with flour. Roll out dough to roughly the dimensions of tart pan, stopping to flour as necessary to prevent sticking to rolling pin. Place dough in tart pan and push with fingertips to mold into pan. Bake for 15 minutes. Set aside.

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

Chapalote Corn

CHAPALOTE CORN PORK RIB POSOLE ROJO WITH CHAPALOTE HOMINY

LOCAL HERO: Best Restaurant Santa Fe We are so happy to be a part of the community!

Greg LaPrad, Overland Trout Chapalote Corn Hominy

Boil 2 quarts of dried chapalote corn with 2 ounces of lye dissolved in 2 quarts of water in an enamel pot for 15 minutes. Cool the corn in the lye liquid overnight. The next morning, vigorously rinse the corn under fresh water, discarding the lye mixture. The goal is to remove most of the outer hull of the corn. This process is known as nixtamalization. The finished corn is now ready to become hominy. Take the nixtamal chapalote corn and return it to a pot of fresh water. Simmer for 2 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 3 hours until the corn becomes tender, less starchy, and pops open. The finished chapalote hominy is now ready to add to the posole. Pork Rib Posole Rojo 3 quarts pork broth 4 pounds country style pork ribs 1 teaspoon Mexican oregano, dried 1 teaspoon chiltepin peppers, dried and crushed 1 teaspoon cumin, ground 1 teaspoon coriander, ground 2 ounces (about 10) New Mexico red chiles, dried 2 ounces (about 10) ancho chiles, dried 1 large white onion, diced 5 garlic cloves, sliced Salt 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 3 quarts of fresh chapalote hominy

SANTA FE

ALBUQUERQUE

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In a large stock pot over medium-high heat, boil ribs in 3 1/2 quarts water until meat is tender and falling off the bone. Reserve liquid for pork broth. Clean the chiles, removing the stems and seeds. In a hot castiron skillet, soften the chiles on each side for about 1 minute. Place all the chiles in a saucepan, and cover with hot water (about 2 quarts). Soak for 1 hour. Create a red sauce by blending the onion, garlic, olive oil, and chiles. Season to taste, then pass the sauce through a fine sieve. In a large roasting pan or rondo, combine pork broth, chile sauce, and spices. Add the meat from the ribs and the prepared chapalote hominy. Simmer over low heat for at least 1 hour, adjust salt, and serve with corn tortillas, fresh onion, cilantro, avocado, and your favorite hot sauce. Overland Trout in Sonoita, Arizona closed in 2015. since 19 9 2

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Cholla Bud

CHOLLA BUD

CHOLLA BUD, GREEN BEAN,

MUSHROOM, AND VERDOLOGAS SALAD

WITH QUESO FRESCO AND PUMPKIN SEEDS Janos Wilder, Downtown Kitchen + Cocktails 28

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

Cholla buds are one of the food treasures the Sonoran Desert provides in the spring. Like much that comes from the desert, their pleasures donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t yield without some effort. To fully appreciate, you must experience the process of harvesting, removing their stickers, drying, and reconstituting. They are wonderful freshly harvested and processed, but either the fresh or reconstituted cholla buds work well here.

Jalapeño Orange Vinaigrette 1 jalapeño, seeded and chopped 3 ounces scallions, chopped 1/2 bunch cilantro 1/4 cup orange juice concentrate 1/2 teaspoon garlic, minced 3/4 cup olive oil Salt and pepper

Celebrate Mom! Mother’s Day Brunch Sunday, May 8 11:30am –3pm Patio Opens on Mother’s Day Reserve Today!

In a blender, puree the jalapeño, scallions, garlic, cilantro, and orange juice concentrate until very smooth. With the motor running, pour in the olive oil in a slow steady stream. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Makes 1 cup. Cholla buds LUNCH • DINNER • BAR

1 1/2 cups dried cholla buds 12 cups water

A tradition for 50 years!

In a 6-quart pressure cooker over high heat, cook the buds in water until regulator starts to rock. Adjust heat down so that regulator rocks evenly and gently. Cook 20 minutes, then remove from heat, and cool until air vent or cover lock has dropped. Remove and drain the cholla buds. Makes 6 cups.

Reservations: 505.982.4353 653 Canyon Road compoundrestaurant.com photo: Kitty Leaken

Salad 1 cup fresh or reconstituted cholla buds 1 cup fresh green beans, bias cut into 1/2-inch pieces 1 cup button mushrooms, sliced 3/4 cup fresh, raw verdologas, picked over 1/3 cup jalapeño-orange vinaigrette 1/2 cup queso fresco, crumbled 1/4 cup pumpkin seeds, toasted 1/2 cup orange, supremed Salt and pepper Blanch the green beans in two quarts boiling water for just a minute or two, so that their color is bright; the beans are slightly cooked and lose their raw edge, but are still toothsome. Drain and immediately submerge in the ice water to stop the cooking and set their color. Drain and pat dry. Gently mix the cholla buds, green beans, mushrooms, and verdologas together and season with salt and pepper. Gently toss the salad in the jalapeño-orange vinaigrette and garnish with the pumpkin seeds, queso fresco, and orange. Downtown Kitchen + Cocktails • 135 S 6th, Tucson, Arizona 520-623-7700, www.downtownkitchen.com

E S T.

20 0

ORDER ONLINE www.jerkybyart.com 1717 San Pedro Drive NE, Albuquerque • 2235A Bosque Farms Blvd, Bosque Farms 1520 Deborah Road, Suite J, Rio Rancho WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

DIGGING IN

Episode One SILVER LEAF FARMS AND RADISH & RYE CREATING A RECIPE FOR SUSTAINABILITY By Natalie Bovis â&#x2C6;&#x2122; Photos by Stephanie Cameron

On the set of Digging In with Aaron and Elan Silverblatt-Buser, Natalie Bovis, and David Gaspar de Alba. 30

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

When Stephanie and Walt Cameron and I first sat down to discuss this collaboration between edible Santa Fe and The Liquid Muse, we knew our video show would address how locally produced goods can be the cornerstone of New Mexico’s dazzling culinary culture. What better way to open this conversation than by bringing a chef to a farm and exploring how, in a practical way, these relationships work? We wanted to answer the following: What does local farming entail? Is it financially possible for restaurants to execute seasonal menus using produce from within our state borders? Does this matter to diners? For the first episode of Digging In: A Recipe For Sustainability, we invited chef David Gaspar de Alba of Radish & Rye in Santa Fe to visit Silver Leaf Farms in Corrales. The brother farmers Elan and Aaron Silverblatt-Buser could not have been more passionate and enthusiastic about what they grow and—more importantly—how they grow it. The Albuquerque natives have worked in various aspects of farming and food science throughout their lives, and eventually ventured into business together. In their first year of operation, the brothers built a greenhouse that produces food year round. It features eco-friendly drip irrigation and ponds where floating lettuce beds need only a gallon of water per head to mature, about a sixth of what they need in a field. The encased ecosystem also houses bee boxes and insects that prey on pests, eliminating the need for chemical pesticides. Fans and electrically controlled vents, powered in part by a solar array installed late in 2015, allow for full control over temperature for optimal conditions. They’ve created an environment of nature-meets-organic science, in a colorful, flavorful, breathing wonderland of deliciousness. We toured the grounds, tasting multiple types of kale, salad greens, cabbage, and tomatoes, which practically winked at us while ripening before our eyes. Our shared passion for clean, vibrant food developed into a conversation about how small farms can sustain themselves as

viable businesses, and how seasonality affects a chef ’s offerings. This exploration eventually brought us back to chef David Gaspar de Alba’s kitchen. Chef Gaspar de Alba moved to Santa Fe from Portland, Oregon, to open the acclaimed Radish & Rye last year. He points out that collaborating with local farmers in Portland came naturally. Now settled here, he often spends days off exploring local farms, getting to know the people and their offerings. As with hospitality, in general, the succession of people who touch each part of a diner’s experience is part of what makes a restaurant great. A personal connection between farmer and chef is the first step in that process. When we all met up, again, at Radish & Rye, Aaron and Elan brought several kinds of lettuce, freshly picked that morning, and the kind of fragrant tomatoes that only come straight off the vine. Pungent herbs, such as tarragon, punctuated the farm fresh salad we enjoyed as we continued our exchange, now in a restaurant setting. Over our meal we discussed the practicality of relying on locally grown food instead of buying from national (and international) food distributors. Is the cost of seasonal food higher than what arrives off a truck from another part of the country? How important is the carbon footprint of water use and transportation to a restaurant claiming to be farm-to-plate? How do guests react to a menu that shifts with the bounty of each season? Dig into these questions, and more, by watching our inaugural episode. We’d love your feedback! Log on to www.ediblesantafe.com now to watch Digging In.

PAYNE’S

ORGANIC SOIL YARD Our Organic Products Make Your Plants GROW!

Payne’s Organic Soil Yard has one of the most extensive selections of bulk, organic products in Santa Fe including: • Organic Composts • Rich Garden Soils • Wood & Bark Mulches • Decorative Mulches • Pecan Shells • Custom Mixes • Select Organic Fertilizers

Bring your own truck or we’ll deliver your mulch and compost for a small fee.

Happy Gardening! Payne’s Organic Soil Yard ( POSY ) 6037 Agua Fria 505-424-0336 Payne’s Nursery North 304 Camino Alire 505-988-8011 Payne’s Nursery South 715 St. Michael’s Dr. 505-988-9626

www.eatsilverleaf.com www.radishandrye.com

www.paynes.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

TOOLS OF THE

TRADE By Stephanie Cameron

DETOURS AT

LA FONDA ON THE PLAZA

ON THE CORNER OF OLD SANTA FE TRAIL AND SAN FRANCISCO La Fonda On the Plaza in Santa Fe, built in 1922 on the site of the first inn built by Spanish colonialists, sits on the oldest hotel corner in America. Embracing its extensive history, La Fonda has reimagined the Newsstand, the hotel’s gift shop, as Detours at La Fonda, a boutique featuring local artisans. “La Fonda occupies the best block in all of Santa Fe, how do we take advantage of our corner?” asks Jill Heppenheimer, the hotel’s entrepreneurial strategist and creative consultant. “We wanted to build a larger business that would cater to our guests and be a focal point for locals in downtown Santa Fe. Taking advantage of the Fred Harvey heritage, circa 1920s, and Indian Detours concept, circa 1930s, we are creating an experience in travel.” Detours follows a growing trend in the hotel business, moving toward larger, unique unique gift shops that offer more than just sundries. Sophie Dant and Heppenheimer, the shop’s curators, don’t shop at the same gift shows as everyone else—they seek out items whose quality artisanship can’t be found anywhere else in Santa Fe. “We are taking things we love and bringing them to our guests and our community with enthusiasm and passion—that is what is at the heart of developing Detours,” stated Heppenheimer. When curating the store, they play off of the whimsy, color, and artistry of Santa Fe. They support many local artisans by carrying their spa, makeup, and food products, as well as New Mexican ceramics, paintings, and sculptures. They meet the needs of the locals by providing gifts for the well-traveled—gifts that say “New Mexico,”—to take to friends and family, knowing they give something of quality.

100 E San Francisco, Santa Fe 505-982-5511 www.lafondasantafe.com

La Fonda encourages community engagement and would love your feedback, so stop by and tell them what you think. Want to know more about the history of the La Fonda? Take a complimentary docent-led tour on Wednesdays, Thursdays, or Saturdays at 10:30am. Sign up with the concierge at La Fonda 505-995-2333.

Palace of the Governors Photo Archives Reprints A. Negative number: 004829, (Indian Detours) Canuto Suazo at Tesuque Pueblo. Photographer: T. Harmon Parkhurst. B. Negative number: 040752, La Fonda at the End of the Santa Fe Trail. Photo credit: "Southwest Arts and Crafts." Courtesy Palace of the Governors Photo Archives (NMHM/DCA).

$32 – $85 32

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New Mexican Pottery Kachina pieces by New Mexican potter Phoebe Lawrence, of Silver City. “The Kachinas represent various natural phenomena, native spirit figures, and symbols,” says Lawrence.

$125 – $450

Spa & Beauty Pamper yourself with natural skin care products from New Mexico and beyond. $5 – $100

Kelly Jo Designs Kelly Jo Kuchar was commissioned by the La Fonda to design all the bathroom tiles for every room of the hotel. You can find her tile designs and several more of her tabletop products at Detours.

$25 – $500

Luxury Chocolates (above) Delicacies hand-crafted in New Mexico for discerning tastes. La Fonda commisioned Joliesse Chocolates to create custom chocolates for their guests.

$15 – $50

Raven (right) Giclée Prints Gerald Cassidy, Fray Marcos, 1922, 48” x 38” Giclée print. $850 Smaller sizes and other Gerald Cassidy Giclée prints available.

Raven Houses by potter Phoebe Lawrence, of Silver City. Phoebe describes her work as “Highly stylized… they have simple lines, and are of the earth.” Phoebe is influenced by important figures in Pueblo cultures.

$125 – $450

TRULy LOCAL MISSION:

The Santa Fe Farmers’ Market Institute advocates for farmers, ranchers and other land-based producers; provides equitable access to fresh, local food; owns and operates a year-round venue for the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market; and manages programs to help sustain a profitable, locally-based agricultural community.

BUYING “GREEN” MEANS BUYING LOCAL When you buy produce at a large grocery store, your food travels an average of 1,500 miles! This long-distance travel results in increased pollution, carbon emissions, and waste. When you buy produce at the SANTA FE FARMERS’ MARKET, your food travels less than 100 miles and is grown by people who nurture the earth and foster healthy soil and water.

buy green! Buy local!

MARKET HOURS: OPEN YEAR-ROUND SATURDAYS winter hours 8am-1pm

farmersmarketinstitute.org | 1607 Paseo de Peralta | 505-983-7726

? W O N K DID YOU

B EU P FOOD

HEADING SOUTH 36 B & B ROUNDUP

Home away from home by Stephanie Cameron

44 DRAWING LINES

Visions of food in Marfa, Texas by Willy Carleton

52 THE SPIRIT OF THE RIO GRANDE Drinking in El Paso, Texas by Marisa Thompson Potter

58 SONORAN DESERT GASTRONOMY

Tucson celebrates international acclaim by Debbie Weingarten

64 SOWING SEEDS OF DIVERSITY AND BIODIVERSITY In San Diego by Lora Logan

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

B & B Roundup HOME AWAY FROM HOME By Stephanie Cameron

B & B offers a different experience than a hotel. The innkeeper can make you feel like family and welcome you with special amenities and tailored touches you won’t find elsewhere. Of course breakfast is the most important

part of the B & B experience, one of the reasons these four inns shine. The individuals behind these businesses are passionate about what they do. They offer stellar customer service, fully respect visitors’ space and privacy, and provide a comfortable lodging experience you’ll want to repeat.

Top left: The Adobe & Pine's ramada. Top right: Christine cooking up breakfast, photo by Everlasting Images. Bottom left: The Puerta Cobre room has a private portal that faces the garden courtyard. Bottom right: The pièce de résistance of the Puerta Rosa room is the Roman-style soaking tub with fireplace and dry sauna. All photos courtesy of Adobe & Pines. 36

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

ADOBE & PINES The historic adobe hacienda dates to the 1830s and still has many original architectural elements. When it was made into a bed and breakfast twenty-five years ago, few additions were made. Tucked below the road and hidden by trees, this oasis can be found off the southern end of the main road into Taos. Christine Scypinski, a trained landscape architect, is a newbie to caretaking a B & B, having purchased Adobe & Pines in July of 2015. Christine started her landscape architecture career in Pennsylvania. “I would go on a lot of historic garden tours and many were at colonial bed and breakfasts,” she says, “I think that is where the seed got planted.” The idea of a B & B stayed in the back of her mind for several years, and she took some innkeeper classes to see if owning an inn was something she really wanted to do. Then, last year, she found herself taking the leap. THE ROOMS Each of the eight rooms on the property is unique. The inn’s most requested room, Puerta Rosa, offers a Roman-style soaking tub and dry sauna. Two stand-alone casitas have kitchenettes and two suites have mini-kitchens. You will also find lemonade, cookies, and fruit available every afternoon. WHAT’S FOR BREAKFAST? Christine inherited the recipes she uses from the previous innkeeper, and she does most of the cooking: Mediterranean frittata, a variety of omelets, migas, blue corn atole, and fruit coulis from the property’s fruit trees. Her goal is to be as sustainable and local as possible. She puts her skills as a landscape architect to work to supply from the property eggs, produce, and fruit for the kitchen, with a more long-term goal of adding bees and goats. A new flock of chickens is on its way and she has plans for expansion of the vegetable, herb, and fruit gardens among the fruit trees. SPECIAL AMENITIES / OFFERINGS Adobe & Pines offers reservation enhancements that include on-site massages and couples massages; welcome plates with fruit, cheese, and local wine or beer; queso and chips with local beers; or a trio of chocolate covered strawberries, fresh flowers, and chilled champagne. WHERE ARE SOME DO YOU SEND YOUR GUESTS? At the Ranchos de Taos Plaza, a ten minute walk north, you can explore San Francisco de Asis Mission Church, built in 1815, and dine at Old Martina’s Hall or Ranchos Plaza Grill. About four miles east, you will find local hot springs (for those who don’t mind nudity). A mile south, enjoy the local golf course, a beautiful place to enjoy the sunset over a martini. For dinner, check out Bella’s Mexican Grill, Doc Martin’s, Lambert’s, El Meze, El Gamal, ACEQ, Medley, and Taos Ale House. 4107 Road 68, Taos, 575-751-0947, www.adobepines.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

B & B ROUNDUP

Top left, clockwise: Entrance on Paseo de Peralta; sweet potato hash; Wine & Chile Room; breakfast on the deck; Georgia O'Keeffe Room; and chilaquiles with New Mexico red chile sauce and green tomatillo sauce. All photos courtesy of Inn on the Paseo.

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

INN ON THE PASEO Start your exploration of The City Different at the Inn on the Paseo. It offers easy access to downtown and the historic plaza, where you can dine, shop, visit galleries and museums, and imbibe. Staying close to the city center can enhance your experience at events like Bike and Brew, Indian Market, Spanish Market, the Opera, or Santa Fe Wine & Chile. Terry Martinson and his wife, Katherine, who were both in health care, came to Santa Fe from Minnesota and chose the B & B adventure as a second career. Terry loves to cook and to work with their daughter, Rebecca Martinson. The well-traveled father / daughter team at the inn visited as guests before taking ownership in May of 2013. Today, they make a dynamic duo who greets you with more than smiles. They want the inn to be your home away from home. Rebecca says when you visit you can “be comfortable, be yourself, come to breakfast in your pajamas. We want to maximize your experience and help you love Santa Fe the way we love Santa Fe.” THE ROOMS Currently the property has eighteen rooms, with plans to reduce the room count to create a more intimate experience. Each room plays off of New Mexico’s culture. Enjoy the Georgia O’Keeffe room or the the Wine & Chile room, each with luxury Italian linens and a unique color scheme. WHAT’S FOR BREAKFAST? Avocado pie, pumpkin pancakes, eggs Blackstone, garlic cheese grits, Rebecca’s rainbow sweet potato hash, lemon ricotta pancakes, crockpot carrot cake, and roasted grapes in wine—just to name a few. The menu changes every day; you could stay for two weeks and not eat the same thing twice. Rebecca and Terry put great effort into working with dietary restrictions and everyone gets something special regardless of what one can or can’t eat—they look forward to the challenge of modifying recipes. Find many of their scrumptious recipes on their website. SPECIAL AMENITIES / OFFERINGS You can pre-arrange opera picnic baskets, which include table and chairs for tailgating prior to the big show. Planning a romantic weekend? Request a rose petal turn-down with a dozen roses, warm candlelight, and a petal-strewn bed. They offer many other options to enhance your stay and do their best to accommodate special requests. And, with advance arrangements, they are pet-friendly. WHERE ARE SOME DO YOU SEND YOUR GUESTS? “We really try to get to know our guests so we can make good recommendations based on their likes since there is so much to do in Santa Fe,” says Rebecca. Some of their favorite eats are: La Choza, El Gusto, El Meson, Sazon, Eloisa, La Boca, Bouche, Osteria d’Assisi, and Il Piatto. 630 Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe, 855-984-8200 www.innonthepaseo.com

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

B & B ROUNDUP

Top left, clockwise: Heritage House at dusk, photo courtesy of Downtown Historic B & B. Banana-stuffed french toast, huevos rancheros with lentils; Spy House dining room; and Spy House entryway. Page 41: The Rosenberg Room in the Spy House. Photos by Emily JoAnne Photography.

DOWNTOWN HISTORIC BED & BREAKFAST OF ALBUQUERQUE Steve and Kara Grant, the owners and innkeepers of the Downtown Historic Bed & Breakfast of Albuquerque (DHBBA), first got started when looking for an investment property in 2003. They came across a house with great history that was badly in need of TLC. Kara fell in love with it and wanted to make it their home. They spent six months making the house livable and moved into it in December of 2004. This was the Spy House, which they made their home. 40

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

Two years later, they had the opportunity to buy the house next door, 207 High Street. They decided that it would make a perfect B & B, and after renovation and many inspections, they opened Heritage House B&B for business in January of 2007. In December of 2008, the family moved out of the Spy House and decided to make it part of the B & B as well, allowing them to join the yards and and create a beautiful outdoor area for their guests. They rehabbed the carriage house and cabinet house at the back of the property and recently added another house, right next door, to their offerings. DHBBA is steeped in Albuquerque history that will enhance your stay.

THE ROOMS Ten rooms in four buildings make up DHBBA. In the Spy House, each room is named after a piece of history, with Arts and Crafts– era inspired decor accentuating all the original 1912 architectural details. Kara’s handmade window dressings and bedding add a special touch to each room, where homemade chocolate truffles wait for you upon arrival. WHAT’S FOR BREAKFAST? Breakfast is served in the Spy House dining room. Hatch green chile quiche, stuffed tomatoes, apple pecan baked pancakes, and blue corn pancakes are just a few of the amazing dishes Kara cooks up every morning. The eggs come from backyard chickens and much of the produce, when in season, comes from the Grants’ home garden. Kara’s recipes have been requested so often that she created a cookbook, available for purchase at the inn. She carefully attends to guests’ dietary restrictions and makes sure that no one eats the same thing twice during a stay. SPECIAL AMENITIES / OFFERINGS The history of the Spy House has inspired a monthly, interactive murder mystery dinner. You do not need to be an overnight guest to join the fun. Each guest portrays a character of their choosing for the evening, with speaking roles and ad lib opportunities during the dinner. The Artichoke Cafe caters the meal, ensuring great food and great fun. Check out all upcoming mystery dinner events on our main website. WHERE DO YOU SEND YOUR GUESTS? The inn is walking distance to The Grove, Holy Cow, Artichoke Cafe, Farina, Standard Diner, and many other restaurants, breweries, and local galleries. You can also get to the Rail Runner train station on foot in ten minutes.

Susan’s Fine Wine and Spirits One of the largest selections of wine, craft beer, and spirits in town!

207 High NE, Albuquerque, 505-842-0223 www.downtownhistoric.com

We deliver Extremely knowledgable staﬀ 1005 S. St. Francis, Suite 101 | 505-984-1582 Monday - Saturday 10am - 8pm WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

B & B ROUNDUP

CASA GALLINA Casa Gallina isn’t a typical bed and breakfast—it is a sanctuary in the agricultural belt of Taos, where one can tune into nature and oneself. Just two miles from the plaza, the five adobe casitas that make up Casa Gallina sit on three pastoral acres, bordered by the Rio Pueblo and the Rio Fernando. An acequia runs through the middle of the property. The soil is fertile, rich, and black. Richard Spera, the innkeeper and owner, came to Taos twenty years ago from New York, and like many who have fallen under the town’s spell, he knew he was home. A refugee from New York’s high-powered, high-pressure restaurant world, Richard had attended the Cornell Restaurant School and directed operations for a large restaurant group. Leaving the restaurant world was easy, but hospitality is in his blood. Cultivating and creating an atmosphere of comfort and beauty for people is clearly what he does best—Casa Gallina is the manifestation. Casa Gallina came together organically and started with one casita—he wanted to understand the art of renovating an original adobe. As neighboring property came for sale, he scooped it up. It was a ten-year evolution into what is now the five casitas and a studio workshop (also available for bookings). “As business grew, so did I. I was a city boy learning on the farm and incorporating everything I learned into my business,” says Richard. 42

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

To left: A hammock perched on an uplifted deck is just one of the many places to relax at Casa Gallina. Bottom left: Casa Gallina grounds. Top right: Bantam Roost casita. Bottom right: Breakfast made with eggs laid by the chickens that morning. All photos by Stephanie Cameron.

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Richard hand-selected the furnishings, art, and textiles in the casitas from artisans locally and from around the world. Many of the objects and artwork in the casitas are for sale. “It’s a totally authentic place,” Richard surmises. He has taken a lifetime mastering the art of prepared relaxation. He is innately attuned to people’s needs, knows his environment inside out, and has handpicked the best of local culture to decorate the respective cottages in rich fabrics, unique woodcarvings, brilliant paintings, and beautiful textiles. He loves to renovate, doing one project a year, whether it's a bathroom, a kitchen, or a bedroom. WHAT’S FOR BREAKFAST? The care and craft in every detail of the rooms make Casa Gallina different from other B & Bs. You will always have fresh eggs from the hen house, as well as seasonal access to the orchards and vegetable gardens. Richard provides you with all the tools and basics to make your own farm-to-table breakfast, and you will be glad you did. SPECIAL AMENITIES / OFFERINGS Something special always awaits your arrival. You will always have fresh eggs, organic coffee, and staples to cook any meal on your own in the B & B’s fully equipped kitchens. WHERE DO YOU SEND YOUR GUESTS? “My new favorite is Parcht on the plaza. I also send my guests to The Love Apple, El Meze, Taos Market, Taos Diner, and I’m excited for the new Taos Mesa Brewing Taproom in downtown that is set to open in May. I also like to share my favorite stalls at the farmers market when in season,” says Richard. RECOMMENDED ACTIVITIES AT AND AROUND THE PROPERTY?

the grove

cafe market

catering

THE ROOMS

breakfast

Bring The Grove to your next social or corporate gathering. Options range from classic antipasto platters and custom hors d’ oeuvres to fresh salads, boxed lunches, house english muffins and our signature sweets by the dozen.

lunch

brunch

505.248.9800 See our extensive catering menu @ www.thegrovecafemarket.com

600 Central Avenue SE, just west of I-25 in Albuquerque

W INE B IS TR O

“My first recommendation is always to…slow down, put your feet up in hammock, read a book. Don’t just be a tourist, take it easy and recoup.” After you have taken a break, Richard will guide you to his favorite walks, hot springs, hikes, and will gauge your ability and make recommendations accordingly. An avid tango dancer, Richard would love to share his passion and offers dance lessons for the adventurous guest. 609/613 Callejon, Taos, 575-758-2306, www.casagallina.net

Welcoming Spring Flowers & Ingredients It’s Time for Rosé Wines! Lunch Mon-Saturday • Dinner Every Eve 304 Johnson St, Santa Fe 505-989-1166 • terracottawinebistro.com

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

MARFA

Drawing Lines

VISIONS OF FOOD IN MARFA, TEXAS By Willy Carleton

The Food Shark food truck in Marfa. Photos courtesy of Food Shark.

Marfa was a mystery to me. I knew only that the small desert town had become famous after Donald Judd, one of the most influential artists of the twentieth century, moved there in the early seventies and gradually transformed it into a mecca of high-end minimalist art.

he tethered white blimp of the US Border Patrol shimmered like an angry eye in the dying light of the southwestern sky as we wove south, through the Davis Mountains. Silhouettes of yucca, backlit by a lavender sky, lined the edges of rising hills. A black feral hog paused indifferently at the side of the pavement as we barreled by. The floating eyeball gradually gave way to Orion in his own perpetual hunt. Our stomachs growled. At last, after eight hours of following the long white line through the Chihuahuan desert from Albuquerque, a green sign glowed in our high beams that read “Marfa, Texas, population 1,819.” Marfa was a mystery to me. I knew only that the small desert town had become famous after Donald Judd, one of the most influential 44

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

artists of the twentieth century, moved there in the early seventies and gradually transformed it into a mecca of high-end minimalist art. I knew too that many artists had since moved in, building on and commenting on Judd’s vision, to create a dynamic and surreal art scene and tourist destination. I decided that over the course of the long weekend, I would attempt to wrap my brain around the town and its many artistic visions by experiencing its food. For such a small town, there was a lot to digest. An uncompromising severity, a disarming lightness, and a paradox of complex simplicity weave through the cultural and natural landscapes of this place; and they have all, in different ways, made their way into its food.

Where The Lo cals Go for Good.

ICE COLD BEER, HOUSE MADE MARGARITAS NEW MEXICAN & AMERICAN CLASSICS GREAT APPETIZERS, JUICY BURGERS RIGHT ON THE TAOS PLAZA

O PE N D A I LY

103 E PLAZA

575-758-8866

WWW.THEGORGEBARANDGRILL.COM

Bites

A cozy place to discover unique wines + quality craft beer + hand-picked artisanal cheese & charcuterie + locally roasted coffee. Come in and explore the things that excite us while you taste + shop + unwind

www.parcht.com 103 EAST PLAZA TAOS, NEW MEXICO (575)758-1994

FULL RETAIL BOTTLE SHOP + WINE BAR ON THE TAOS PLAZA!

warm bread + olive oil tasting spicy caramelized pecan bacon house-made red wine vinegar + sea salt chips marcona, pistachios + smoked almonds warmed citrus + rosemary olives pear + blue cheese + honey burrata + kale pesto + warm bread smoked kielbasa + lusty monk mustard + sauerkraut chilled Castelvetrano olives balsamic marinated beets + lavender goat cheese NM feta, lemon & rosemary spread + smoked trout kale + lemon vinaigrette + shaved pecorino

Boards

see chalkboards for available cheeses + charcuterie …with crostini + Lusty Munk Mustard + cornichons cheese pick 3 or 5 charcuterie pick 3 or 5 build your own board pick 4 or 6

Sweets

house-made peanut butter cup iconik coffee infused truffles tea-O-graphy truffle trio *fall fig + ginger spice + lady grey

MARFA

Top left, clockwise: Grilled cheese sandwiches with soup served up on Astroturf; Adam with TVs; Telex eight-track deck; sandwich board with the night's offerings. Photos courtesy of Food Shark.

THE FOOD SHARK MUSEUM OF ELECTRONIC WONDERS AND LATE NIGHT GRILLED CHEESE PARLOUR In any other small town in West Texas, arriving at ten on a Saturday night would limit food choices to maybe a gas station burrito or chicken fingers at a bar. In Marfa, however, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the perfect hour for a grilled cheese experience that will likely defy any previous encounters with the simple sandwich. Blue lights and loud music emanated from the Food Shark Museum of Electronic Wonders and Late Night Grilled Cheese Parlour as we entered the small building. Lou Reed played on an eight-track player. Vintage TVs lined the walls, aglow with static and bright horizontal lines that repurposed the defunct screens into sculptural event horizons. A young German couple looked up at us as they hunched over TV tray tables with gooey cheese dripping from their hands. Another couple sat on 46

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the floor playing a vintage floppy-disc-era computer game that tests your knowledge of Texas history. We approached the small window to order. The simple menu, scratched on a nearly illegible, dimly lit chalkboard in the corner, provided all we needed to know: grilled cheese, four ways. At the Late Night Grilled Cheese Parlour, the future is in the past. From the space-age seventies furniture, to the vintage TV sets and computers, to the grilled cheeses themselves, a nostalgia for a futuristic by-gone era prevails. Diners eat the sandwiches, served on plexiglass platters lined with Astroturf, at fold-out TV tray tables and white plastic tables reminiscent of The Jetsons. The grilled cheeses contain no specialty cheeses, breads, or butter. These comfort foods harken to a time when organic was a term mostly applied to chemistry, gluten-free meant nothing, and nothing tasted better than hot cheese in buttered white bread served to you in front of a twenty-four inch glowing tube. The parlour could just as easily be called the museum of caloric wonder. Yet, at the Late Night Grilled Cheese Parlour, the past has been repurposed into a highly functional and relevant present. The sculptural and inviting space strips down, in Judd-like fashion, the adornments of late-night cuisine into a full sensory social experience of both simple sustenance and lavish comfort. “It’s such an oddball thing,” art director Adam Bork, who also co-founded and runs the iconic Food Shark food truck next door, explained of his space. “It could only exist in that building.” The very same grilled cheese, any-

where else, would be lesser; to fully appreciate this sandwich, like much of the art in Marfa, you must trek across the desert and experience it on its own terms. (222 West San Antonio, Marfa)

MARFA BURRITO On the edge of town, directly next door to the US Border Patrol, a plywood sign nailed to a small white building reads “Marfa Burrito.” I opened the door to the small space and immediately joined the long line to the ordering window. Ranchero music, mixed with banging pots and sporadic laughter from the kitchen, dominated the airwaves. A short menu beside the window offered burritos, five ways. Free coffee and water, read a smaller sign. Ramona, who had started the restaurant over twenty years ago after moving to Marfa from Chihuahua, greeted me with an exceptionally warm smile and asked in Spanish for my order. Behind her a middle-aged woman chopped jalapeños and chatted animately with another woman who cooked eggs on the range. I quickly dusted off my Spanish to ask if I could use a credit card. No, said Ramona, and she explained where to find the closest ATM. I ordered a five-dollar egg and potato burrito, promising to return shortly. Cash only, Spanish only, burritos only. Like at the Grilled Cheese Parlour, the simple food came on its own terms. When I returned, an absurdly large steaming burrito awaited me. As I devoured it and watched a steady stream of artists, tourists, and cowboys enter and leave, two Border Patrol agents in green uniforms

Enjoy an aaernoon cocktail during our daily Happy Hour from 3-6pm

Savor our menu as the Southwest region’s avors, locally grown produce and traditions converge into contemporary high desert cuisine Visit redsage-sf.com for the full menu For reservations call 505.819.2056

MARFA

Top: The Food Shark fleet of vintage vehicles circling the Museum of Electronic Wonders and Late Night Grilled Cheese Parlour. Photo courtesy of The Food Shark. Middle: Inside Marfa Burrito. Photo by Willy Carleton. Bottom: Marfa Burrito across from the US Border Patrol. Photo by Willy Carleton.

filed in with guns on their waists and distinctive Texas drawls pouring from their mouths. Ramona smiled, asking for their order in Spanish. They replied in Spanish, exchanged a joke with her, and walked to their table smiling. Ramona, it became clear, draws many lines, of customers and of subtle power, at her small counter window. She walked over and asked if I needed anything else. I asked if I could ask a few questions and take a photo or two for this article. She shot me a penetrating, inquisitive half-smile. “Of course,” she replied, and led me into the busy kitchen. “But what do you want to know? Just how crazy we are?” The other two women chuckled without looking up from their work. I asked her the secret of the restaurant’s success. “Well, we serve traditional food from the state of Chihuahua,” she replied simply. “It’s what the people want.” Feeling disruptive in the busy kitchen, I snapped a few quick photos and thanked her for her time. As I reached for my wallet to pay for my burrito, she smiled and said no. With a hand lightly on my shoulder, she ushered me out of the kitchen into the bright glow of the Texas sun. (104 E Waco, Marfa)

THE CAPRI The Capri had opened three weeks earlier, and Rocky Barnette was enjoying his first day off when I stopped by for an impromptu drink. Tall, long-haired, and sporting a 48

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beat-up blue jacket bearing Thunderbird Inn and Capri patches, Barnette shook my hand and offered to show me around. A fifteen-minute drink soon became a two-hour tour, as Barnette spoke a mile a minute and explained the intricate and far-reaching visions that shape the restaurant. After eight years working at the Inn at Little Washington in rural northern Virginia, including four and half as the executive sous chef, Barnette made his way west. Together with his wife, Virginia Lebermann, who co-founded the arts space Ballroom Marfa and owns the Thunderbird Inn next door, the two opened the Capri to complement the Inn. The spaces at the Capri captivate immediately. Native plants proliferate; a narrow, concrete pool divides an expansive outdoor seating area that includes a large grape arbor; a balcony lounge overlooks a huge indoor event space; a plush tearoom provides a cozy place to relax; and the impressive art and furnishings of the bar area provide endless visual stimulation. The open spaces and many design features—such as exposed adobe and massive steel doors with a signature Judd center pivot— incorporate the Marfa vernacular. “Everything is influenced by the Donald Judd thing here,” Barnette explained. But as he whisked me around the grounds, it became clear that Barnette has taken the “Judd thing” in his own direction with an ambitious menu rooted in locally produced, radically historical foods. The architecture and landscaping at the Capri offer clues into the restaurant’s culinary vision. In addition to the abundant native plants, a high tunnel garden in the corner of the property provides salad mix,

mustards, and arugula, and an adjacent small orchard provides apples, plums, and apricots. For Barnette, this onsite food production is only a start. He envisions a more contextually relevant garden in the near future that will include southwestern cultivars such as Tarahumara corn and tepary beans. If the future is in the past at the Grilled Cheese Parlour, at the Capri the past is in the future. A copy of Reconstructing Ancient Maya Diet lies open on Barnette’s desk. Although Barnette already incorporates wild foods such as house-ground mesquite flour, yucca blossoms, and meticulously rinsed local acorns into his dishes, he envisions more innovative dishes that dig deep into traditions of the past. “I’m trying to go back beyond ten thousand years,” Barnette explained at one point. Minutes later: “I’m trying to figure out the breed of dog the Aztecs used to eat.” For now, however, such daring visions largely remain only visions. The full restaurant, hampered by “a huge human resources problem,” has yet to open, and only the bar menu is available. The innovative bar menu, however, provides opportunities for a fully satisfying dining experience. The menu ranges from Texas cheeses and Texas charcuterie to foie gras terrine with habanero escabeche to prickly pear paletas. Barnette’s Beef Carpaccio, dusted in nopal ash, fried capers, reggiano, and micro greens, leaves no room for doubt in Barnette’s innovative approach to high-end dining. The Capri, even at half-throttle, offers the most stimulating and satisfying fine-dining experience in town. (603 W San Antonio, Marfa)

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MARFA

ALSO IN MARFA COFFEE: If you’re looking for a delicious cup of coffee, the small town offers two excellent options. Frama (198 N Austin, home.tumbleweedlaundry.com), conjoined with the Tumbleweed laundromat, provides friendly service, locallyroasted and fair trade coffee from Big Bend Roasters, breakfast tacos, and “after dinner time,” Henry’s Homemade Ice Cream. The other local coffee shop, Do Your Thing (213 S Dean, www.doyourthing.us), similarly offers good coffee, friendly service, and good work spaces, along with a vague sensation that you might be in LA. The shop serves a small array of mostly organic breakfast items, along with cosmopolitan flourishes like homemade cardamom bitters and pomegranate shrubs. LUNCH: Be sure to check out the iconic Food Shark, next to the Museum of Electronic Wonders, for their signature Marfalafel or daily specials. The abundant seating includes an outdoor covered patio and a retrofitted school bus dining car. Thursday through Sunday, 12pm - 3pm. 222 W San Antonio, www.foodsharkmarfa.com. DINNER: Cochineal offers high-end dining, using fresh produce from its raised beds garden throughout the growing season. Open seven days a week, 5:30pm - 10pm. 107 W San Antonio, www.cochinealmarfa.com. GROCERIES: The Get Go provides high-end staples, wine, kombucha, organic and some local produce in season, and Marfa Maid local goat cheese. 208 S Dean, www.thegetgomarfa.com.

Top: Outside, looking in, the bar at The Capri. Middle: Patio at The Capri. Bottom: Charcuterie platter served on the bar menu at The Capri. All photos by Alex Marks, courtesy of The Capri 50

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SLEEP: El Cosmico includes renovated vintage trailers, safari and scout tents, Sioux-style tepees, a Mongolian yurt, and tent campsites. In their own words: "Vagabond. Kozy Coach. Imperial Mansion. An armada afloat on a vast sea of desert." 802 S Highland, www.elcosmico.com.

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EL PASO

The Spirit of the Rio Grande DRINKING IN EL PASO, TEXAS By Marisa Thompson Potter

Mexican gold poppies blanket the mountainside, which locals celebrate with the annual Poppies Fest. Photo by Marisa Thompson Potter.

El Paso has a special quality that is hard to define; it is ephemeral but strong, ever-present but sometimes below the surface, much like the river that is the valley’s life blood. You know how sometimes in the Southwest luck strikes and that warm glow of nostalgia for something you’ve never known but always dreamed of wraps you up in a tight bear hug? Think: romanticism and the Rio Grande, lavender bundles and chile ristras, chapped lips and dusty boots, roadrunners and coyote scat, saloon doors and tumbleweeds. When recently seeking out some of El Paso’s best food I also searched for that Wild West feeling…and it didn’t take me long to find it. El Paso has a special quality that is hard to define; it is ephemeral but strong, ever-present but sometimes below the surface, much like the river that is the valley’s life blood. The city’s understated coolness, 52

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deep historic and agricultural roots, and close relationship with its neighbor across the river, all converge to make El Paso complex but intriguing, and its local food scene unique, exciting, and full of promise. Adventuring in El Paso offers more than might be expected of a desert border town. Franklin Mountains State Park, the largest urban park in the country, provides opportunities for rock climbing, trails for hiking and biking, camping, ancient pictographs and etched petroglyphs, and in early spring when the Mexican gold poppies (Eschscholzia californica ssp. mexicana) blanket the mountainside, which locals celebrate with the annual Poppies Fest. Another amazing place for

sightseeing is Scenic Drive, a partially residential street, which passes through pretty neighborhoods and also has several parking areas for photo ops of this ultra-urban portion of the Rio Grande Valley. At nighttime from this vantage point you can see a surprising difference between El Paso and Ciudad Juárez. The streetlights south of the border have a deep yellow hue compared with the whiter color of the newly installed low-energy lights on the streets of El Paso, and the river is lined with brighter yellow lights that make a sparkly ribbon through the middle. The city of El Paso bends like a tarnished stirrup around the southern tip of the Franklin Mountains. No matter from which direction you approach, bold restaurants and bars are easy to find, including the famed Rose’s Cantina. The bustling Hoppy Monk flaunts a substantial beer list, a water fountain feature formed by a row of beer taps on the patio, and menu items such as rabbit tacos and tofu wings that were so good I researched how to recreate them at home (hint: pre-freeze the squeezed tofu wedges for a more meaty texture). At high noon on a still day, you can sometimes make out a red clay formation on the west face of the Franklin Mountains in the shape of a huge bird of prey with wings fully expanded and beak pointing north. Local lore claims that the Thunderbird protects the surrounding city. Located directly under this great rock bird, a restaurant called Eloise is the most fascinating hole-in-the-stripmall you can ever hope to find. The wallpaper alone is something to write home about. If Wes Anderson was from El Paso, he’d have hung out at this bar. With savory and sweet galletes, twenty-one vegan options on the dinner menu alone, and a triple-crème brie pub burger, the menu at Eloise makes vegans, cheese lovers, and meat-eaters not just comfortable at the same table, but happy to be there. Fresh greens from Alex Benitez’s Brassica Farms about a half hour away, near Chaparral, New Mexico, are all over the menu, from the kale salad served with pomegranates to the “tower of power” breakfast plate. The bar cache at Eloise is beyond impressive with all the usual suspects plus many beautifully designed house-infused creations and talented bartenders. I ordered their signature Rosemary Smith made with rosemary and green apple–infused gin, St. Germaine, and dry vermouth. My husband sipped a Grand Maman, comprised of citrus cilantro tequila, lillet blanc, and lemon juice with a decorative Tajín rim. And if you need a traditional Old-Fashioned, this is the place to get it. At The Independent Burger, soda lovers (we know who we are) will get a big kick out of the self-serve drink fountain with naturally sweetened and flavored colas made by Maine Root in Austin. At 577 miles away, it might be a stretch to say they’re serving locally made soft drinks, but Texas is as huge as Coke products are universal, so the Independent Burger surely deserves some credit for offering a great soda alternative. Also worth writing home about are the $2.99 all-day, everyday beers from local Big Bend Brewery (only 223 miles away in Alpine) as well as $1 sangrias on Sundays. No, that’s not a typo. Who can afford NOT to go to El Paso for Sunday brunch?

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EL PASO

Top: Pecan groves near the Rio Grande valley, photos by Marisa Thompson Potter. Bottom: True Food boxes being filled by Co-owners Adriana Clowe, Patsy Hermosillo and Vanessa Brady with local and organically-grown produce, photos by Adriana Clowe. 54

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Manager Missy Amaya judged me well when she recommended I order the Fancy Pants from a thick list of grassfed beef burgers. And my side of Brussels sprouts were perfectly seasoned with a little butter, thyme, and lemon. A solid symbiosis exists between the hip bar Hope and Anchor and the semi-adjoined Sabertooth restaurant whose motto is “feed your savage hunger.” While seated at the wide beautiful bar with shiny pesos pressed into the epoxy and a table of guys behind us playing the dice game Threes, the knowledgeable bartender, Phillip, walked us through the drink options, from jamaica-infused tequila to the Mezcal Old-Fashioned to red beer (Dos Equis with clamato and a salted rim) and everything in between. He explained why El Paso bars embrace the art of cocktail design more than many New Mexico bars. Liquor licenses are expensive and scarce in the Land of Enchantment, but comparatively cheap and plentiful in the Lone Star State where mixed beverages are a dime a dozen. Therefore, to snag the customer, bartenders in El Paso get crafty with their concoctions and our palates reap the rewards. The Rio Grande flows all year up in the northern parts of New Mexico, but down in southern New Mexico, it is completely dry for more than half of the year, allowing locals to walk and play in the riverbed, what I like to call the “Rio Sandy.” The river is a powerful cultural symbol that plays many roles in the valley— recreation, international boundary, drinking water, and irrigation for agriculture. Cotton, alfalfa, and pecans take up the largest amount of nearby agricultural acreage now, but greens, squash, melons, and onions are a few of the many crops that also thrive in these soils and can take full advantage of the intense photosynthetic opportunity and long growing season. Despite of the food-growing potential of the area, water is always the limiting factor, which contributes to the challenges of keeping locally produced food local. The Elephant Butte Irrigation District (EBID) regulates the amount of water released into the Rio Grande from the dams at Elephant Butte and Caballo Lakes. Early estimates for 2016 would allot farmers ten acre-inches of water, which is twenty-eight percent of what EBID considers to be a full allotment in non-drought years and means supplemental groundwater pumping will be necessary for all farmers. During these extreme drought years, New Mexico and Texas have battled over the water of the Rio Grande. Most of the farmed acreage (average farm size in both counties is over three hundred acres) is monocropped for export beyond local markets; on those farms many believe smallerscale sales and distribution of produce for local consumption is prohibitively inefficient. Small producers face even greater irrigation challenges due to high fixed costs for groundwater. But an emerging local food culture and a changing climate may make local food more available in El Paso in the near future. The local food movement is catching on in this area, slowly but surely. Currently, it is difficult to find menus with more than a few locally-sourced items, but this portion of the Rio Grande Valley has a long, rich history of agriculture, and that, combined with an increased public interest in local food, pushes growers and restaura-

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EL PASO

Top left, clockwise: Aztec Taste cocktail at Hope and Anchor where spice meets cocoa in this historically inspired drink, photo by Sean Isassi. Left at Albuquerque cocktail at Hope and Anchor - carrot Juice is tasteful with a hint of honey and a nice dose of gin, photo by Sean Isassi. Nilsson Mule with lime and coconut infused vodka and Nigori sake and dirty martini at Eloise, photo courtesy of Eloise. Sabertooth's tomato basil soup and lemonade, photo courtesy of Sabertooth. Fish tacos, beer battered served with chipotle aioli and mango salsa at Sabertooth, photo courtesy of Sabertooth. 56

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teurs together. Just in the last year, an El Paso farm-to-table company, True Food, started to “re-connect the disconnect between our community and its local food supply” by creating a CSA and bridging the gap between growers and buyers. And finally, in perhaps its most famous role, the river divides the city from its other half, Ciudad Juárez. The border, always nearby and often hard to define, shapes El Paso’s food. You can even watch US Border Patrol trucks sweeping the hills alongside the Rio while sipping ponche on the beautiful veranda at Ardovino’s Desert Crossing. Astounding but true, over two million people inhabit the Paseo del Norte region connecting Las Cruces in southern New Mexico, El Paso in far West Texas, and, south of the border, Ciudad Juárez. During my eight years living in Las Cruces, I’ve gone south to El Paso for a mini-adventure about once a month, and I still haven’t quite captured what makes El Paso tick. I hope, though, that I’ve helped you imagine what it’s like, and maybe next time a road trip takes you through El Paso, you’ll know where to stop to drink it all in.

EXPLORE EL PASO AND SURROUNDING AREA Rose’s Cantina 3454 Doniphan, El Paso, 915-833-0402 Hoppy Monk 4141 N Mesa, El Paso, 915-307-3263 www.thehoppymonk.com/elpsplash Eloise 255 Shadow Mountain, El Paso, 915-581-2441 www.eloiseelpaso.com Brassica Farms Chaparral, New Mexico, 505-503-5132 The Independent Burger 5001 N Mesa at Montecillo, El Paso 915.584.5453 www.independentburgerbar.com Hope and Anchor 4012 N Mesa, El Paso, 915-533-8010 www.hopeandanchorelpaso.com Sabertooth 4012 N Mesa, El Paso, 915-533-8024 True Food www.elpasotruefood.com Ruli’s International Kitchen 4176 N Mesa, El Paso, 915-313-4806 www.rulisik.com Cantina Malolam 4935 N Mesa #2, El Paso, 915-875-8670 www.malolam.com Ardovino’s Desert Crossing 1 Ardovinos, Sunland Park, New Mexico 575-589-0653, www.ardovinos.com

TUCSON

Sonoran Desert Gastronomy TUCSON CELEBRATES INTERNATIONAL ACCLAIM By Debbie Weingarten

Thousands of years after their ancestors settled along the Santa Cruz River, members of the San Xavier Cooperative Association are sowing new heritage. Photo by Liora K.

Tucson has the longest agricultural history of any city in the US. Farmers have stewarded land and produced food in the Santa Cruz River Valley for over four thousand years. It’s February in Tucson, and the weather keeps alternating between sublimely perfect and freezing cold. Across the city, cacti are covered with Styrofoam cups or draped in blankets to prevent ice burn. Here in the Sonoran Desert, nighttime temperatures can dip into the twenties, while afternoons are eighty-five degrees and gorgeous. Despite the inconsistency of temperature, our desert home bursts with food all year. Citrus, root crops, and wild mustard in the winter; nopalitos, cholla buds, and leafy greens in the spring; saguaro fruit, mesquite, okra, and peaches in the summer. Tucson has the longest agricultural history of any city in the US. Farmers have stewarded land and produced food in the Santa Cruz River Valley for over four thousand years. This rich history of food production is partly why, in January 2016, Tucson became the first city in the US to be designated a UNESCO World City of Gastronomy. With this designation, Tucson joins the UNESCO Creative Cities network, developed in 2004, to honor the role of creativity 58

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in sustainable urban development. Other international cities recently designated as Cities of Gastronomy include Phuket, Thailand; Bergen, Norway; Belém, Brazil; and Ensenada, Mexico. The UNESCO designation is not just a toast to Tucson’s fancy restaurants—it celebrates the past, present, and future of food and agriculture here in southern Arizona. It acknowledges the innovative partnerships between businesses and farmers. It honors the incredible effort of community organizations to achieve community food security. It reiterates our commitment to sustainable agriculture and the potential for a local economy in which food producers are able to make a living. The designation celebrates southern Arizona’s web of farmers, ranchers, chefs, bartenders, gardeners, chicken lovers, land stewards, cheesemakers, vintners, herbalists, conservationists, community organizers, risk takers, and changemakers. Here are three ways to explore and support innovative food-based projects while visiting Tucson and southern Arizona.

SAN XAVIER COOPERATIVE ASSOCIATION The San Xavier Cooperative Association (SXCA), a nonprofit of the Tohono O’odham Nation, is an eight-hundred-sixty-acre production farm, comprised of allotted land owned by Tohono O’odham tribal members. In 1971, thirteen hundred landowners combined their land, forming the cooperative. In the 1990s, they began producing traditional crops and alfalfa. Each year, the landowners elect a seven-member board to oversee decisions about the farm operations and land stewardship. “The farm provides education and promotes the field of livestock and agriculture,” says Cie’na Schaefli, SXCA program manager. “But we also promote traditional heritage foods, and the health and wellbeing of the O’odham people.” SXCA is committed to traditional crop production, economic development, and healthy agricultural practices based on the Tohono O’odham Himdag, or way of life—including the cultural values of sacredness of water and respect for land, elders, plants, and animals. The farm is certified naturally grown through a farmer peer-certification process that adheres to organic standards. Though the farm primarily produces alfalfa and feed crops, sixty acres are devoted to food crops, including beans, corn, grains, produce, and tree crops. In 2013, SXCA began the Wild Foods Community Harvests Program, based on a similar program pioneered by Tohono O’odham Community Action (TOCA). Schlaefli says, “We host native foods workshops to train community members on the harvesting of native foods, as well as safe handling practices, cultural relevance, history, and food preparation.” After completing the workshop, tribal participants are able to harvest native foods on tribal land and to sell those foods back to SXCA. The food is then processed and prepared for sale by SXCA staff. The program not only promotes knowledge of native foods and their reintegration into the diets of community members, but it also provides an opportunity for food-based economic development. Currently, the program includes mesquite and cholla buds, and SXCA is seeking funding to include prickly pear. (See page 21 for recipes featuring some of these ingredients.) The SXCA farm store is located nineteen miles south of downtown Tucson and is open to the public. Visitors can purchase saguaro seeds, jarred goods, bean and cholla-bud soup mix, heirloom Pima Club Wheat (whole grain and flour), seasonal raw honey, and a mix of seasonal produce and fruit. SXCA’s mesquite flour and cholla buds are sold at the Food Conspiracy Co-op in Tucson. SXCA products can be found on Thursday afternoons at the Community Food Bank’s Santa Cruz River Heritage Farmers’ Market, which is Tucson’s only producers-only farmers market.

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TUCSON

Top left: Beans have been grown near the Santa Cruz River for centuries. Top right: Verna Miguel is one of more than one thousand plat owners at the eight-hundred-fifty-acre San Xavier Coop Farm. Bottom left: Liane Hernandez, who spearheaded the The Café @ YW’s culinary program, has worked in an array of kitchens across town. Bottom right: The lunch at The Café @ YW that’s more than lunch— a goat cheese sandwich, complete with house-pickled vegetables and citrus honeydew agua fresca. All photos by Liora K. 60

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YWCA OF SOUTHERN ARIZONA THE CAFÉ @ THE YW In February of 2014, a small café opened in the YWCA of southern Arizona’s downtown Tucson community center. Called The Café @ the YW, it provides job training for at-risk women and a full menu of food and drink items for sale to the public. Liane Hernandez, YWCA Community Life director and creator of The Café, says the project is an experiment in the concept of social enterprise, in which an organization utilizes commercial strategies to improve community wellbeing and create a unique revenue stream for reinvestment in the organization. Hernandez, who has worked in Tucson’s food industry for years, was a natural fit to help build and grow The Café. She immediately contacted local producers, implemented a composting program, and created healthy recipes based on seasonal foods and whole ingredients. “We don’t use anything we can’t pronounce,” she says. Thirty-five thousand people pass through the community center each year, and The Café provides retail and catering services for events and conferences. The YWCA focuses on empowering women and eliminating racism. The Café is a tangible way to support the larger mission of the organization. In addition to creating a dynamic café, Hernandez has also helped to create a job training program that aligns with the values and the culture of the YWCA. “[The women] are able to ask questions and learn in a supportive environment,” she says, explaining that learned skills include café management, catering, hospitality, and meal preparation. “Part of the power of The Café is being within the context of the YWCA, where we’re having these larger conversations,” says Hernandez. “The whole environment is one of supportiveness and can-do. Whatever you wish, if you’re willing to put in the work, it’s a space where you can dream.” In early February 2016, The Café opened a second location in the El Rio Medical Center on Congress Avenue. Both locations—the YWCA’s Frances McClelland Community Center and El Rio Medical Center—are open to the public. The Café's regular hours are Monday through Friday, 7:30am to 3:30pm, and during special events, including nights and weekends. The Café @ the YW is also available to cater events on- or off-site. “At the end of the day, we make really good lunch,” says Hernandez, “And there’s a lot of good that goes into making that lunch. I’m really proud of this project...I think we make things with love. The possibilities are endless.” Frances McClelland Community Center 525 N Bonita, Tucson, 520-884-7810 www.ywcatucson.org

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edible Baja Arizona Edible Excursions visit Sunizona Farms and Sand-Reckoner Vineyards. Photos by Karen Schaffner.

EDIBLE BAJA ARIZONA EDIBLE EXCURSIONS Founded in 2013, edible Baja Arizona (eBA) has become an important presence in the southern Arizona food community. This winter, eBA launched Edible Excursions, an experiential, travel-based program designed to connect readers with the organizations, restaurants, and producers that appear in eBA magazine. Edible Excursions participants take day trips to southern Arizona food destinations to learn history and to witness food production and craft. Spurred in part by the recent City of Gastronomy designation, Doug Biggers, publisher of eBA, says, “There is so much happening in this region related to innovations in food, culinary heritage and the local food system, we want to celebrate it by actually taking people there to experience it first hand.” Edible Excursions are hosted by Tana Fryer, local wine and cheese expert and proprietor of Tucson’s Blu: A Wine and Cheese Stop. Fryer says, “It’s really been important to me to bring people into community around good food and good stories. People are blown away by what’s happening in food in their backyard.” 62

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Excursions allow participants to peek into the world of Baja Arizona’s local food communities by exploring heritage orchards in Magdalena and Sonora, learning about coffee roasting in downtown Tucson, traveling through Sonoita wine country, or visiting a Wilcox vegetable farm. “We hear so much about farm to table, and that is important, but there is so much more than that,” says Fryer. “I want people to have a deep and wide understanding of our food economy. There are farmers, ranchers, restaurateurs. There are architects, designers, health department folks, teachers, and entrepreneurs. It is my hope that each tour gives a glimpse into the whole picture.” www.ediblebajaarizona.com Interested in having edible Santa Fe launch Edible Excursions? Email us at info@ediblesantafe.com and let us know you're interested.

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SAN DIEGO

Sowing Seeds

OF DIVERSITY AND BIODIVERSITY IN SAN DIEGO By Lora Logan

New Roots Community Farm. Photo courtesy of Dwight Detter.

While visitors may come for the sea air, strolling through Balboa Park, or sightseeing in the Gaslamp Quarter, exploring the local food scene offers a deeper glimpse into what makes San Diego a rich international city.

merica’s Finest City offers a vibrant tapestry of food and farming activities, an ever-developing food culture that reaches from the waters of the Pacific to the mountains on the eastern edge of San Diego County. San Diego’s

robust food system includes farmers, gardeners, fishers, ranchers, composters, beekeepers, value-added food producers, families, and chefs of diverse economic and cultural backgrounds. They do it for hobby. They do it so their families can thrive. They do it to support the local economy, the environment, their friends and neighbors. In most cases, it’s all of the above. While visitors may come for the sea air, strolling through Balboa Park, or sightseeing in the Gaslamp 64

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Quarter, exploring the local food scene offers a deeper glimpse into what makes San Diego a rich international city. Even for San Diegans who consider themselves to be conscious local food consumers, many are not aware of the breadth and depth of their regional food system. They may not know that San Diego County is the twelfth-largest farm economy in the US, is home to the largest number of small farms (under ten acres), has the largest number of part-time farmers (largely due to expensive land and water), and that approximately twenty-seven percent of San Diego farmers are women. Many may never guess, when eating at a farm-to-table restaurant or shopping in their neighborhood market, that the people

who grew their produce are refugees, youth, veterans, students, or some combination of these groups. According to the San Diego Community Garden Network (sdcgn.org) the city has at least fifty community gardens countywide, many located in diverse low-income communities. San Diego also offers a variety of easy bike rental options, including Decobike, a city bike share program, making a tour of community gardens a great way to spend the day. It is not just the context of San Diego’s food and agriculture landscape that makes it unique. An ever-expanding range of organizations and projects help support a culturally and ethnically diverse food system. Most of these organizations and projects have grown out of an imperative for: 1) increased access to fresh, healthy, affordable food; 2) the need to access resources—affordable land and water, healthy soil, and appropriate tools—that allow people to grow food; and 3) the means to easily sell locally produced food. These endeavors leave a marked impact on the development of an equitable and more sustainable food system, that also offers a different type of experience for the food tourist. Given San Diego’s size, it’s not always easy to know where to look for examples of great food and farming programs. If you visit, or you just want to know more about the projects and people involved in the vibrant good food movement here, make time to check out some of the following farms, gardens, markets, restaurants, or programs. An organization helping to pave the way to a robust local food system is the International Rescue Committee (rescue.org/ us-program/us-san-diego-ca), an international humanitarian aid and refugee resettlement organization. IRC operates two community gardens, New Roots Community Farm and El Cajon Fresh Farm, which provide growing space for more than one hundred families speaking many languages, a number of whom sell at local farmers markets. The IRC’s Farmer Training Program trains aspiring market-gardeners on production practices, business skills, and aspects of marketing, and supports growers with technical assistance as they move towards independent sales at local farmers markets. One such market is the Downtown El Cajon Farmers Market, which allows farming clients to sell, and clients and community members to buy, local, affordable produce. The market happens year round on Thursdays from 3pm to 6pm in a public plaza, offering a great place to have a picnic and sample artisan products. IRC also supports Youth FarmWorks, providing work experience for at-risk youth ages seventeen to twenty-three. They operate a commercial organic farm and sell at local farmers markets and to the IRC’s kitchen processing project. Project Chop helps limited-English speakers attain job skills and improve their English so they can obtain part or full-time employment. During this six-month program, clients are paid to lightly process locally sourced produce, which is then sold to area school districts for use in their school lunch program—from farm to the salad bar in just a couple of days.

5415 Academy Road NE • 505.835.0860 nantucketshoalsseafoodmarket.com

SAN DIEGO

Top left: IRC's Fairmount Farm. Top right: Project Chop. Bottom: Seeds@City Farm at San Diego City College. All photos courtesy of Lora Logan.

The Sustainable Agriculture Program at San Diego City College (sdcity.edu/Agriculture) is a hands-on program for individuals seeking a certificate or Associate’s degree in the field of urban agriculture and market gardening. The school uses the Seeds@City Urban Farm, with two sites on campus, as the learning laboratory for classes and internships. SDCC is one of the most diverse community colleges in the nation, and enrollment in the Urban Ag program is no different. Students are diverse in nationality and socioeconomic status. While not all complete the program on a career path to farm, most leave with a new perspective on where their food comes from, how it affects their health, and how they can contribute to a thriving local food system. If you visit the the farm, be sure to walk a few blocks to visit Smarts Farm (humanesmarts.org/farm), a community garden and urban gardening education site, and another few blocks to grab a bite, a brew and maybe some tunes at the Quartyard (quartyardsd.com). 66

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

The Mt. Hope Community Garden and People’s Produce Night Market, both organized by Project New Village (projectnewvillage.org), are two important programs in Southeast San Diego, a culturally diverse, low-income, and often-underserved community. Project New Village’s goals include re-energizing and re-connecting people to their neighborhoods, exploring opportunities to address food security and food sovereignty, promoting healthy lifestyles, and honoring a legacy of environmental stewardship. The garden serves as a space for growing food, but also for building and empowering the community and beautifying the neighborhood. The fourth Saturday of every month is an open work day at the garden from 10am to 2pm. The market, held Wednesdays from 5pm to 8pm, is one of the few night markets in the county and the only one serving Southeast San Diego. Another gem in the area is the family-owned City Farmers Nursery (cityfarmersnursery.com) and their sister business, Nate’s Garden Grill. This is no ordinary urban garden center. Their plant selection

is vast, but they’re also home to cows, goats, chickens, ducks, turkeys, rabbits, tortoise, and fish. They offer gardening, cooking, and homesteading classes, and the restaurant is deeply committed to local sourcing. Groundwork San Diego (groundworksandiego.org) runs multiple programs focused on environmental stewardship. One of those programs, also serving Southeast San Diego, is EarthLab. This four-acre site on San Diego Unified School District land includes a pocket park, a school garden, a native plant landscape, and a working farm. Fifth through twelfth grade students from nearby schools participate in farming and environmental stewardship activities that align with STEM learning objectives. At the EarthLab Native Plant Propagation Center, students work to improve the ecosystems in backyards, parks, and public spaces through strategic partnerships with public agencies and area homeowners. Olivewood Gardens and Learning Center (olivewoodgardens.org) is a garden-based nutrition education center situated on a nearly seven-acre historic property in the heart of National City. Olivewood works to transform community health outcomes by providing science-based environmental and nutrition education, as well as hands-on gardening and cooking activities for children and families from throughout San Diego County. Their robust partnership with the neighborhood schools give local children the opportunity to experience the gardens during different seasons. In addition to bilingual programming for students, teachers, and parents, Olivewood offers opportunities for visitors through periodic farm to fork dinners, tours, volunteer days, and festivals. In particular, check out their Seedling Soiree, on May 21, and join them for a Day of Play, a local food festival on June 25. San Diego Roots Sustainable Food Project (sandiegoroots.org) operates two key programs, Wild Willow Farm (WWF) and Victory Gardens San Diego (VGSD). WWF is a six-acre working and teaching farm adjacent to the Tijuana River Nature Preserve that hosts a farmer training program, homesteading and gardening workshops, field trips, community events, and much more. VGSD is their urban agriculture program, focused on teaching people how to grow their own food at home or in a community garden. They offer hands-on gardening classes and collaborative garden builds, and are deeply engaged in various community outreach activities that help people become more interested in, and excited about, growing their own food. If you visit during the summer months, be sure to attend a community potluck. You can also go next door to Suzie’s Farm (suziesfarm.com), a one-hundred-twenty-acre organic farm well known for their farm tours, family-friendly events, and diverse produce offerings at local farmers markets. The farm’s website also has an up-todate list of the local restaurants where they sell, making it a great place to start your search for true farm to table dining in the city. The Second Chance Youth Garden (secondchanceprogram.org/ youth-garden) is a job-training program for young people who have been involved in the juvenile justice system. The program blends experiential and in-class learning to help students move towards

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SAN DIEGO high school graduation. Youth learn about all aspects of farming, from seed to harvest to compost, and attain business and marketing skills by helping with farm stand and CSA sales. Additional aspects of the program include nutrition education, cooking classes, financial literacy, and job readiness training. Youth are provided support to move toward high school graduation, attain internships or paid employment, or move on to higher education. The San Diego Food System Alliance (sdfsa.org) is a multi-sector coalition of more than thirty members with a mission to develop and maintain an equitable, healthy, and sustainable food system. Organizations and individuals in the SDFSA represent the agriculture sector, food processing and distribution, education and research, the environment, food security, food justice, government, health, and

the community. The Alliance regularly partners with other organizations and businesses to host workshops, movie screenings, restaurant events, and more. In April, they will launch a series of Unwasted Food pop-up dinners where local chefs and partner restaurants will prepare dishes from ignored or un-coveted food that would otherwise go to waste (re-sourcesd.com). If you find yourself in San Diego, consider charting your travels and meals around some of the many organizations, businesses, and projects helping to create an equitable and just food system for refugees, immigrants, low-income, and other at-risk community membersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the experience will not only help the communities you visit, but also provide you a deeper glimpse into the gastronomic heart of the city.

Top: City Heights Farmers Market, photo courtesy of IRC. Bottom: New Roots community gardener packing freshly harvested greens, photo courtesy of IRC, Erin Oveis Brant Photography. Right: Project Chop, photo courtesy of Lora Logan.

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

Farmers • Families • Communities

“ “

My nephew Jesus wants to learn everything about farming. Before, he played video games all the time. Now, he works in the garden. One day he will be a chef ! ” Mi sobrino Jesus quiere aprender todo lo que es agricultura. Ha perdido un poco de peso. Antes, él jugaba videojuegos todo el tiempo. Ahora, trabaja en el jardín. ¡ Algún día será chef ! ”

Photo and caption by Augustin Orozco, El Guique Farm Photo courtesy of Farm to Frame, a project of La Familia Medical Center

Bring the Harvest Home www.FarmersMarketsNM.org WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

SAN DIEGO SHOP THE MARKETS The San Diego Farm Bureau has an up-todate list of all the farmers markets operating in San Diego County (sdfarmbureau.org/ BuyLocal/Farmers-Markets). Here are a few of my favorites, most of which accept EBT: City Heights Farmers’ Market facebook.com/CityHeightsFarmersMarket Downtown El Cajon Farmers’ Market rescue.org/farmers-market Hillcrest Farmers’ Market hillcrestfarmersmarket.com North Park Farmers’ Market northparkfarmersmarket.com Little Italy Mercato - littleitalymercato.com Linda Vista Farmers’ Market facebook.com/LindaVistaFarmersMarket Tuna Harbor Dockside Market thdocksidemarket.com

FARM-TO-TABLE DINING Top: New Roots gardener tends to his plot, photo courtesy of IRC. Bottom: Community gardener washing freshly harvested produce, photo courtesy of IRC, S. Hodgson.

EXPLORE MORE ORGANIZATIONS Archi’s Acres - archisacres.com

If you’re looking to enjoy a quick bite, savor a multi-course meal, or whet your thirst, here are some farm-to-table restaurants ranging from casual to swanky:

Healthy Day Partners - healthydaypartners.org

Blind Lady Ale House blindlady.blogspot.com

Kitchens for Good - kitchensforgood.org

Counterpoint - counterpointsd.com

Leah’s Pantry - leahspantrysf.org

Farmer’s Bottega - farmersbottega.com

Leichtag Foundation Coastal Roots Farm - leichtag.org/farm

Panama 66 - panama66.blogspot.com

Les Dames Escoffier/San Diego Chapter - ldeisandiego.org

Starlite - starlitesandiego.com

Produce Good - cropswapsandiego.com/producegood

Supanee House of Thai - sdthai.com

San Diego Community Garden Network - sdcgn.org San Diego Farm to School Taskforce - ourcommunityourkids.org

The Red Door - thereddoorsd.com

San Diego Food Not Lawns - sdfoodnotlawns.com

The Smoking Goat thesmokinggoatrestaurant.com

Solana Center for Environmental Education - solanacenter.org

Tiger!Tiger! - tigertigertavern.blogspot.com

UrbanLife Farms - urbanlifesd.org/farms

Urban Solace - urbansolace.net

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

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TABLE HOPPING

Jerry and Oscar Jacquez of Tortillería Cuauhtémoc. Photo by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher.

The Albuquerque-Chihuahua Connection A TASTE OF NORTHERN MEXICO IN OUR BACKYARD By Brandon Jordon The relatively nearby Mexican cities of Chihuahua, Juárez, Cuauhtémoc, and Delicias often gain more renown for recent violence than their food culture. The cuisine of our neighboring state to the south, however, shares many ingredients and methods with New Mexico cuisine, along with its own distinctive touches, that make it well worth getting to know. Northern Mexican cuisine, owing to the region’s long ranching history, relies on beef, flour tortillas, and cheese, alongside the apples, quince, and chiles that the region produces. The fare tends to embrace simplicity and comfort; a common Chihuahuan dish might be grilled T-bone steaks, beans, and flour tortillas. My mother’s family is from Chihuahua and, having once lived in El Paso myself, I often find myself in a hopeful quest for the food my mother once fed me and that my abuelita had cooked for her.

The menu also featured dishes that center on the dried meats predominant in the region. Drying all types of food, a practice harkening to ranch culture and common in the Western Plains of the US that were once part of Mexico, is still a primary preservation method in Chihuahuan cuisine. A plate of machaca and eggs, on the menu at Delicias, would be common in a border town like El Paso, Texas, or Columbus, New Mexico, but three hundred miles away, in Albuquerque, it seems foreign. The stringy beef jerky, a staple of C hihuahuan dishes, is delicious rehydrated with peppers, chiles, and onions, served scrambled with eggs. I ordered a plate of deshebrada, a dish where beef (in this case, flank steak braised until it falls apart) is fried with potatoes and jalapeños in a fashion evocative of the corned beef hash found at American diners.

One need not cross the border to experience its flavors. Albuquerque provides a few opportunities to taste this cuisine that is at once both familiar and slightly different from classic New Mexican dishes. While some Mexican restaurants and food trucks offer Chihuahuan specialties, Delicias Café, tucked in a strip mall at the corner of San Mateo and Osuna (they also have locations in El Paso and Las Cruces), focuses specifically on northern Mexican cuisine. When I stumbled into the crowded café on a recent Saturday afternoon, I immediately recognized the food I knew from home. I dove into the menu in search of recognizable items. Uncommon dishes abounded, alongside familiar items like burritos, menudo, and chile colorado. Caldo de res, a variety of beef soup, comes with all plates, but you can also order sopa de fideo (noodles in tomatoey broth) or caldo Tlalpeño (chipotle chicken soup).

Another ingredient key to Chihuahuan cuisine, also featured at the Delicias, is Mennonite cheese. In the 1920s, German-speaking Mennonites emigrated from the US to form a large cultural group in northern Mexico that has influenced the cuisine significantly; especially with cheese. Look for queso Chihuahua or queso menonita in the dairy case at the local grocery store. The semi-soft, fresh, buttery Mennonite cheese melts readily and has a flavor profile similar to mild cheddar or jack (both share the same process, a pressed cheese with no added dyes, hence the pale buttery color). A simple dish to prepare at home is mollete, a savory breakfast item or snack that I used to eat as a child. The concept is simple: spread leftover refried beans on bread (look for bolillos for tortas); cover with cheese; and broil until hot and bubbly. Los Altos Ranch Market in Albuquerque, at the corner of

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

Central and Atrisco, is a good place to find Mennonite cheese, as well as some of the other ingredients, such as quince paste (membrillo) used in Chihuahuan cuisine. They also sell bolillos next to a huge selection of other sweet breads. Because of the simplicity and proximity of Chihuahuan food, it is perhaps some of the most straightforward of Mexican cuisines to try at home. For example, you might grill fresh beef and eat it with fresh tortillas and red chile sauce. A good place to get ingredients for Chihuahuan food is in the South Valley. Tortillería Cuauhtémoc makes flour and corn tortillas every morning. Just west of the river on Bridge Street, the shop is reminiscent of Cuauhtémoc, a central Chihuahua city where the owners, the Jacquez family, are from. I stopped by late on a Saturday afternoon and found fluffy, soft, fresh flour tortillas. The difference between these tortillas and what you buy at the grocery store is comparable to the difference between a baguette baked that day from a French bakery and one off the shelf. Their delicate corn tortillas hardly resemble the heavily processed rubbery pre-packs you pick up at the grocery store. The proprietors shared that they took great pride in perfecting the masa mix, a blend of three types of nixtamalized corn flour combined to create lightness, flavor, and texture. They also carry pan ranchera, which would substitute nicely for mollete, and a variety of dried goods and all heats of dried chile colorado. Finally, if you’re travelling, you can find their fresh tortillas at locations in Denver and El Paso, and you can find additional products for your Chihuahuan meal at Carnicería Cuauhtémoc at 98th Street and Sage Road. Another place to find northern Mexican style beef is El Herradero, a small chain supermarket and taqueria featuring bountiful meat counters piled high with thin, broad cuts of meat ideal for grilling; marinated beef, chicken, and pork for quick meals; and a variety of specialty cuts, like extremely thinly cut beef for drying for dishes like machaca. The man behind the counter, who, when I asked, shared that he was originally from Chihuahua, clearly knew his business. He told me they source whole carcasses and do all their butchery in house. You can order cuts from the case, or order them to your liking if you want something different. When I asked how he liked his meat, he told me he liked a carne asada, grilled medium rare and flavored only with salt to enhance the flavors of the beef. Exploring Chihuahuan food offers a comforting and simple culinary experience reminiscent of New Mexican food, but different enough to expand ideas about how base ingredients like beef, cheese, chile, and tortillas can come together in mouthwatering ways. Food traditions of our greater region speak to what we have in common, and how close we are culturally and geographically to northern Mexico. Delicias Café - 6001 San Mateo NE, Albuquerque Los Altos Ranch Market - 4201 Central NW, Albuquerque Tortillería Cuauhtémoc - 844 Bridge SW, Albuquerque Carnicería Cuauhtémoc - 801 98th SW, Albuquerque El Herradero - 2821 Phillips SW, Albuquerque

8917 4th St NW

505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com

Albuquerque, NM 87114

Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm

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Liberate Yourself no initiation fees | new members receive free personal training orientation 505.884.8012 | 2401 Jefferson NE, Albuquerque, NM 87110

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

ALBUQUERQUE EAT LOCAL GUIDE

MIUM PRE

New Mexico has its own unique food traditions

Authentic

Delicious

L LY S O U R

EAT LOCAL GUIDE CE

—from Hatch to Chimayó—and we’d like to help you find some of the area's restaurants and chefs that create the distinctively New Mexico dining experience. Restaurants are chosen for this dining guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients in their menus and their commitment to real food. SUPPORT THESE RESTAURANTS, AND SUPPORT LOCAL FOOD COMMUNITIES.

colombian bistro

now open

tuesday-saturday 11am-8pm

3216 Silver SE, Albuquerque 505-266-2305, www.ajiacobistro.com Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by a diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. Cultural traditions of different Colombian ethnic groups play a roll in our choice of ingredients.

The

Green Jeans Farmery, 3600 Cutler NE, Albuquerque 505-554-1967, www.amoreabq.com New Mexico’s first and only certified Neapolitan pizzeria, decorating Neapolitan recipes with house-made fresh ingredients and local flavor. New location opening soon on Central Avenue in Old Town Albuquerque!

Brew by

villa myriam

311 Gold SW, Albuquerque 505-814-1599, www.villamyriam.com

8917 4th NW, Albuquerque 505-503-7124, www.farmandtablenm.com

Family owned from farm to cup, we are steeped in three generations of coffee excellence.

A wonderful dining experience! Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm.

1710 Central SW, Albuquerque 5901 Wyoming NE, Albuquerque 505-821-1909, www.5starburgers.com

3600 Cutler NE (Carlisle & I-40), Albuquerque www.greenjeansfarmery.com

11225 Montgomery NE, 505-271-0882 3403 Central NE, 505-266-7855 10701 Corrales NW, 505-899-7500 www.ilvicino.com

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of sandwiches, entrees, salads, a kid’s menu, beer and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

A unique indoor/outdoor gathering place that builds on ingenuity, localist choices, healthy living and neighborhood. Food, drink, fitness, fashion and fun!

A contemporary Italian Trattoria, offers authentic Italian wood-oven pizza, entrées, salads, sandwiches, baked lasagna, and more. Enjoy our own micro-brewed ales and home-brewed root beer.

4803 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque 505-344-9297, www.lospoblanos.com

Central at 10th SW, Albuquerque @ The Silver Moon Lodge

Rooted in organic ingredients from our own farm and the Rio Grande Valley region. Join us at La Merienda, Wed-Sun 6 - 9pm, by reservation only.

Tocs, Micheladas & Clamatos Local Brews & Wine Monday–Sunday, 10am–10pm

3222 Silver SE, Albuquerque 505-266-0607, www.freshcitrus.us Breakfast and lunch all day! Sweet and savory regular and gluten-free crepes, tortas, burritos, empanadas and handmade pies. Delicious coffee and a wonderful large outdoor patio. Mon–Fri 7am–5pm | Sat–Sun 8am–5pm

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

ALBUQUERQUE

4003 Carlisle NE, Albuquerque 505-884-3625, www.nmpiecompany.com

1403 Girard NE, Albuquerque 505-792-1700, www.piatanzi.com

Handmade sweet and savory pies with pure flavors and premium ingredients, locally roasted coffee and espresso drinks. Buy a 5” pie and mention this ad in edible to get 50% off the second one!

Our fabulous small-plate Italian creations are crafted from the finest, freshest ingredients; organic, farm-raised, and locally sourced. Featuring a beer and wine bar.

10601 Montgomery NE, Albuquerque 505-294-9463, www.savoyabq.com California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Farm-to-table dining from the area's best farms. Wine tastings and happy hour.

The Cellar 2031 Mountain NW, Albuquerque 505-766-5100, www.seasonsabq.com Oak-fired grill, local ingredients, and the best patio dining Old Town has to offer!

1025 Lomas NW, Albuquerque 505-242-3117, www.thecellartapas.com

600 Central SE, Albuquerque 505-248-9800, www.thegrovecafemarket.com

An oasis of casual elegance where delicious wines, local microbrews on tap and sophisticated tapas cuisine will transport you to Old Spain. Tuesday-Saturday, 11am-9:30pm

The Grove features a bustling café experience serving breakfast, brunch and lunch. Local, seasonal, organic foods, Intelligentsia coffee and tea, beer, wine and signature sweets.

TRIFECTA COFFEE COMPANY

2933 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-433-2795, theshopbreakfastandlunch.com Come in for breakfast or lunch, creative American classics with Latin and creole influences, made from local and organic ingredients.

88 Louisiana SE, Albuquerque 505-268-0206, www.talinmarket.com

413 Montano NE, Albuquerque 505-803-7579, www.trifectacoffeecompany.com

Talin T-Bar Traditional flavors Made quickly and with love Ramen. Friday/Saturday: Dumplings!

We roast coffee, and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods, sweet and savory are made in house.

Speakeasy 6855 4th NW, Albuquerque 505-341-0831, yougottapassword.com Make your reservations early and wait for the word. Cloaked behind the guise of a liquor store, the ever so popular "speakeasy" is a place where one can imbibe in their favorite alcoholic beverage while enjoying the posh atmosphere, live entertainment, and elegant food.

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

1828 Central SW, Albuquerque, 505-842-5507 www.vinaigretteonline.com Our salad-centric philosophy focuses on bold flavor combinations and savory proteins to compliment a huge variety of organic greens.

3423 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-255-8226, www.zacatecastacos.com Zacatecas features recipes handed down from generation to generation with flavors that are true to the history and culture of Mexico. Zacatecas is a real taqueria.

ALBUQUERQUE

LOS LUNAS

PLACITAS

Creative Casual Cuisine 3009 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-254-9462, www.zincabq.com

5 Thomas, Los Lunas 505-866-1936, www.greenhousebistro.com

A three level bistro featuring contemporary cuisine with a French flair. Dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails, and tasty bar bites!

Good food always puts you in a good mood! Fresh, seasonal ingredients provide the basis for a meal that promotes healthy living.

221 Highway 165, Placitas 505-771-0695, www.bladesbistro.com Chef and owner Kevin Bladegroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an award-winning wine list.

SANTA FE

A NA SAZ I RESTAURANT 60 East San Francisco, Santa Fe 505-983-6138, www.35northcoffee.com

113 Washington, Santa Fe 505-988-3236, www.rosewoodhotels.com

Committed to providing conscious quality coffee from crop to cup. Fresh, superior grade, coffee beans responsibly sourced from trusted growers at peak harvest for stand-out flavor and the highest coffee experience.

The recently redesigned restaurant and bar celebrates the creative spirit of Santa Fe with a new chic, sophisticated design that complements the buildings’s legendary architecture. Featuring Southwestern cuisine with regional Latin influences.

218 Camino La Tierra, Santa Fe 505-983-2100, www.arroyovino.com Arroyo Vino, voted a top 100 restaurant in America by OpenTable reviewers, serves progressive american fare inspired by our on premise garden and local purveyors.

5 505 Cerrillos, Santa Fe 505-469-2345, www.bangbitesf.com

233 Canyon Road, Santa Fe 505-820-7996, www.caffegrecosantafe.com

604 N Guadalupe, Santa Fe 505-983-8977, www.5starburgers.com

Fresh. Local. Tasty. A bunch of food enthusiasts obsessed with serving the very best crafted food we can get and delivering it the way it was meant to be enjoyed.

Caffe Greco is nestled on the first block of historic Canyon Road boasting a beautiful patio, authentic New Mexican cuisine, sandwiches, salads, Lavazza coffee drinks, beer, wine, and catering. Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown Finalist.

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of entrees, sandwiches, salads, a kid’s menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

95 W Marcy, Santa Fe 505-984-1091, www.ilpiattosantafe.com

321 W San Francisco, Santa Fe 505-986-8700, www.ilvicino.com

125 E Palace, Santa Fe 505-988-5232, www.lacasasena.com

A local favorite since 1996, boasting an authentic Italian farmhouse experience, sourcing its ingredients directly from local farms, dairies, and ranches. Extensive wine list.

A contemporary Italian Trattoria, offers authentic Italian wood-oven pizza, entrées, salads, sandwiches, baked lasagna, and more. Enjoy our own micro-brewed ales and home-brewed root beer.

A local favorite for over thirty years! Chef Jose Rodriguez features New American West cuisine infused with fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients. We also feature an award-winning wine list.

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

SANTA FE

CAFFĂ&#x2030; BAR TRATTORIA

100 E San Francisco, Santa Fe 505-982-5511, www.lafondasantafe.com

228 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe 505-989-1904, www.mangiamopronto.com

505 Cerrillos and 1098 S St. Francis, Santa Fe 505-982-9692, www.ohoriscoffee.com

Showcasing contemporary interpretations of old favorites with New World influences and classic New Mexican cuisine, accompanied by an awardwinning wine list.

Enjoy fresh, authentic, Italian street food; house-made gelato; Lavazza espresso; and wine and beer all day long on our beautiful sidewalk patio.

The original specialty, local micro-roasted coffee source since 1984. Along with our fresh beans, we serve espresso, pour-over, teas, pastries, donuts, burritos, chocolates, and more.

551 W Cordova, Santa Fe 505-930-5521, www.paper-dosa.com

548 Agua Fria Street, Santa Fe 505-930-5325, www.radishandrye.com

815 Early, Santa Fe 505-989-1288, www.rasajuice.com

Paper Dosa brings clean, fresh, authentic homestyle south Indian dishes to your table. These bright and exciting flavors will leave you wanting more.

Farm inspired cuisine: simple yet innovative food and drinks sourced locally whenever possible. We work closely with local farmers and ranchers to build our menu.

An organic juice bar and cafĂŠ committed to offering delicious plant-based foods, cold-pressed juices, and innovative cleansing and detox programs.

20 Buffalo Thunder, Santa Fe 505-819-2056, www.buffalothunderresort.com

500 Sandoval Street, Santa Fe 505-467-8237, www.statecapitalkitchen.com

Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder is perfect for your next romantic night out. Fare rotates seasonally. Enjoy the extensive wine list.

State Capital Kitchen , connected to local farmers, ranchers, and foragers, crafts food with love. Consisting of progressive courses, using carts to choose from and our menu as well.

304 Johnson, Santa Fe 505-989-1166, www.terracottawinebistro.com

653 Canyon Road, Santa Fe 505-982-4353, www.compoundrestaurant.com

A smart, casual restaurant located in a charming one-hundred-year-old adobe. Seasonally changing, globally inspired cuisine and an extensive, value-priced wine list.

The Compound Restaurant has a heritage rich in history and regional influences. Chef Mark Kiffin continues to preserve a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution.

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

505 Cerrillos, Santa Fe 505-780-5073, www.talinmarket.com Talin T-Bar Traditional flavors Made quickly and with love Ramen. Monday: Dumplings!

709 Don Cubero Alley, Santa Fe, 505-820-9205 www.vinaigretteonline.com Our salad-centric philosophy focuses on bold flavor combinations and savory proteins to compliment a huge variety of organic greens.

TAOS

EL MORRO , NEW MEXICO

5 125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos 575-758-1977, www.taosinn.com Serving lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. Patio dining, fresh local foods, award-wining wines, and margaritas. Try our signature chile rellenos.

1032 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur, Taos 575-758-8484, www.5starburgers.com Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of entrees, sandwiches, salads, a kid’s menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

COME EXPERIENCE AN ENCHANTING GETAWAY WILD SPIRIT WOLF SANCTUARY 505-775-3304, info@wildspiritwolfsanctuary.org Daily Tours 11-3:30 pm, Tuesday - Sunday wildspiritwolfsanctuary.org • Find us on Facebook Lodging, food available, feeding tours.

TAOS, NEW MEXICO

100 State Highway 150, El Prado 575-776-8787, www.medleyinelprado.com A casual yet refined dining experience featuring world class wines and culinary delights inspired by regional American cuisines with a touch of international flair.

103 E Taos Plaza, Taos 575-758-1994, www.parcht.com

COME HOWL WITH US IN EL MORRO

/pärCHt/= the physical condition resulting from the need to drink wine, eat good food, and shop…in Taos.

TAOS DINER I & II

ANCIENT WAY CAFE & EL MORRO RV PARK AND CABINS

908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374 216 B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989 www.taosdinner.com

103 E Taos Plaza, Taos 575-758-8866, www.thegorgebarandgrill.com

Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown, and organic breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine.

Our menu is straightforward yet eclectic, and chock full of favorites made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible.

edible

RQUE · TAOS

QUE SANTA FE · ALBU

food, The STory of LocaL SeaSon by SeaSon ISSUE 43 · SPRING

· APRIL / MAY 2016

MEMBER OF IES EDIBLE COMMUNIT

edible

SANTA FE ®· ALBUQUERQUE · TAOS

SPECIAL SUBSCRIPTION OFFER 1 year for $20 / 2 years for $30 Use promo code: SPRING Heading South

www.ediblesantafe.com/subscribe

505-783-4612, elmorrorv@gmail.com www.elmorro-nm.com Visit our Website for Monthly Dinner Menu Creative Casual Cuisine. Hike El Morro National Monument, Local Art at the Old School Gallery.

CABIN AND DINNER FOR TWO $110 INCLUDE A WOLF FEEDING AND TOUR $65

A CENTER FOR WELLNESS

505-783-4039, waveridersheal@yahoo.com redwulf.dancingbare@facebook.com www.waveridersoftheancientway.com Sessions, Workshops, and Retreats. Come Quiet your Mind & Rejuvenate your Spirit.

Nestled among the pines at the base of San Lorenzo Mesa.

LAST BITE BANG BITE CHURRO MILKSHAKE by Enrique Guerrero Serves 2

If you are in a rush to make a milkshake, look elsewhere. This one takes time, preparation, and real effort. Only the brave should try to make this truly professional milkshake, and only the lucky will ever get a taste. 6 homemade or store bought churros 3 cups Taos Cow vanilla bean ice cream 1/3 cup coconut milk or regular milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 tablespoons Distillery 365 Horse

Thief rum or tequila

2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 cup dulce de leche (warmed) Combine the cinnamon and sugar in a small shallow bowl. Wet the rim of each glass, then dip in cinnamon sugar. Place in the freezer. Blend on medium speed to desired consistency: 2 churros, ice cream, milk, vanilla extract, rum or tequila, and 2 tablespoons warm dulce de leche. Remove glasses from freezer and drizzle insides with warm dulce de leche. Pour in the milkshake and garnish with a churro, or 2. Bottoms up.

edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2016

MAKE YOUR OWN CHURROS 1 cup water 1/2 cup butter 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 cup all-purpose flour 2 large eggs, beaten Vegetable oil, for frying 1/4 cup sugar 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon In a saucepan over high heat, bring water, butter, and salt to a boil. Using a wooden spoon, stir in flour. Reduce heat to low and stir vigorously until mixture forms a ball, about 1 minute. Remove the dough from the heat and, while stirring constantly, gradually beat eggs into the dough. Mix the sugar with the cinnamon on a plate and reserve. In a heavy pan over medium-high heat, bring 2 inches of oil to 360째 F. Spoon churro dough into a pastry bag fitted with a large tip. Squeeze a 4-inch strip of dough into the hot oil. Repeat, frying 3 or 4 strips at a time. Turn churros once, frying until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer the cooked churros to a plate lined with paper towels to drain. When churros are just cool enough to handle, roll in cinnamon sugar.

Anybody

who doesn’t think that the best hamburger place in the world is in their hometown is a: a) nincompoop

d) dunderhead

b) numskull

e) fool...

c) schnook

505 CERRILLOS ROAD • 505-469-2345 • BANGBITESF.COM

TOCS • MICHELADAS • CLAMATOS • BEER • WINE MONDAY–SUNDAY 10AM–10PM • CENTRAL AT 10TH STREET, ALBUQUERQUE • MIXXFOODBAR.COM