Early Summer 2021: Balance

edible NEW MEXICO

®

THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON

ISSUE 73 · EARLY SUMMER MAY / JUNE 2021

Balance

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

photo: doug merriam

SUMMER 2021!

505 Cerrillos Santa Fe 505.930.5325 radishandrye.com

Reopening in June

Local Spanish-style tapas restaurant with fine wine and beer. Patio dining with full service!

1025 Lomas Blvd NW, Albuquerque · 505-243-6050

EARLY SUMMER: MAY / JUNE DEPARTMENTS 2 4 6 15

GRIST FOR THE MILL

By Willy Carleton and Briana Olson

CONTRIBUTORS LOCAL HEROES

2021 Local Heroes and Micah Roseberry

GREEN GUIDE

Edible Ingredient: Kohlrabi & Fennel Slaw

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FACES OF FOOD

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FERMENTI'S PARADOX

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AT THE CHEF’S TABLE

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CALL TO ACTION

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TOUCH AND GROW

Rhizome Revolution by Shahid Mustafa Seoul Food by Ungelbah Dávila-Shivers Q&A with Chef Kimnath Gyallay-Pap

by Stephanie Cameron Developing a Fair Food Economy by Ellie Duke Herb Appeal by Marisa Thompson

42 EIGHT AROUND THE STATE Plant Based

48 COOKING FRESH

Mocktails: A Shrub, a Tonic, and a Simple Syrup Walk Out of a Bar

ON THE COVER

edible NEW MEXICO

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THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON

68 EDIBLE COMMUNITIES SIGNATURE SECTION

The Birds & the Beef by Joy Manning

78 LOCAL PROVISIONS GUIDE 80 LAST BITE

Chocolate Pecan Tart ISSUE 73 · EARLY SUMMER MAY / JUNE 2021

FEATURES 56 FARMWORKER HEALTH HERE AT HOME

Balance

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

Balance. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

Understanding the Realities of New Mexico’s Farmworkers by Anita Ashok Adalja

60 CONFLUENCE

Life and Death at Water's Edge

by Christie Green

WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

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GRIST FOR THE MILL

Balance It’s early summer. Greens and garlic scapes are coming in, patios beckon, and, at least locally, the world is opening up again. Yet health remains at the forefront of our minds.

Not only the boost to individual and communal health promised by strong participation in the movement to vaccinate, and not only the health of local restaurants, farms, and arts.

What guides the stories in this issue is the intersecting health of people and land.

From microbes to fungi, we explore local food producers providing sustenance that is kind to the microbiome and kind to the earth. We look at health issues facing local farmworkers that can seriously hinder the overall goals of sustainability and balance, even on small-scale market farms that sell locally. We also talk with the food policy team at La Semilla Food Center, who, in their ongoing efforts to build a more sustainable and equitable food system, have pushed forward the New Mexico Healthy Food Financing Act—legislation that aims to support food economies in underserved areas through grants and loan supports. Following Christie Greene to a ranch outside Wagon Mound, we slow down to look through a hunter’s lens, reflecting from close range on human settlers’ historically uncertain and ever-important relationships with water and wildlife, land and food, in a drying region.

In these pages, we are reminded that our human bodies are small ecosystems whose well-being depends on the well-being of the greater ecosystems surrounding us. The pandemic has laid bare how connected our individual health is to the health of others, the health of the economy, and, ultimately, to the health of the planet itself. Our food systems, shaken to their core in the early throes of the virus, are fundamental to keeping our bodies and our society going. They also have an enormous influence on our environment and can be, as Ximena Zamacona remarks in Shahid Mustafa’s article on Full Circle Mushrooms, both the problem and the solution. Beneath the surface of all the stories in this issue of edible lie fundamental questions about whether we will choose to work toward food systems that are part of a solution. More broadly, after so much has been stripped away this past year, basic questions remain: Will the pandemic collectively lead us to more deeply appreciate our fragility, our shared fate, and the ways we are intimately and intricately connected to one another? In the process of recovering, will we clarify to ourselves what we truly value and need, shake ourselves from a stupor of normalcy bias, and act boldly for the future health of our species and the millions of other species we live with?

PUBLISHERS Bite Size Media, LLC Stephanie and Walt Cameron

EDITORS Willy Carleton and Briana Olson

COPY EDITORS Marie Landau and Margaret Marti

DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron

PHOTO EDITOR Stephanie Cameron

EVENT COORDINATOR Natalie Donnelly

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Cyndi Wood

VIDEO PRODUCER Walt Cameron

SALES AND MARKETING Kate Collins, Melinda Esquibel, and Gina Riccobono

CONTACT US Mailing Address: 3301-R Coors Boulevard NW #152, Albuquerque, NM 87120 info@ediblenm.com www.ediblenm.com

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Write to us at the address above, or email us at INFO@EDIBLENM.COM Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible New Mexico six times a year.

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Subscribe online at ediblenm.com/subscribe

Willy Carleton and Briana Olson, Editors No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2021 All rights reserved.

Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2021

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CONTRIBUTORS ANITA ASHOK ADALJA For the past decade, Anita Ashok Adalja has been working as a farmer through the lens of a social worker. She holds an MA in clinical psychology and substance abuse counseling, as well as a certificate in ecological horticulture and sustainable agriculture. She is deeply committed to building community, increasing food access for all people, and ensuring financial security for farmworkers. She has worked on production farms in Pennsylvania, Virginia, California, Washington, D.C., and for Silver Leaf Farms in New Mexico. Currently she is the produce and distribution manager at Agri-cultura Cooperative Network in Albuquerque’s South Valley, and a board member at La Montañita Co-op.

STEPHANIE CAMERON Stephanie Cameron was raised in Albuquerque and earned a degree in fine arts at the University of New Mexico. After photographing, testing, and designing a cookbook in 2011, she and her husband Walt began pursuing Edible Communities and they found edible in their backyard.

Today Cameron is the art director, head photographer, marketing guru, publisher, and owner of edible New Mexico.

WILLY CARLETON Willy Carleton is co-editor of edible New Mexico and author of the forthcoming book Fruit, Fiber, and Fire: A History of Modern Agriculture in New Mexico (June 2021), which explores the cultural and environmental history of apples, cotton, and chiles in our region.

UNGELBAH DÁVILA-SHIVERS Ungelbah Dávila-Shivers is a Diné writer and photographer, and the owner of Silver Moon Studio in Bosque Farms.

ELLIE DUKE Ellie Duke is a writer in Santa Fe. Her work has appeared in Hyperallergic, Southwest Contemporary, the Los Angeles Review of Books, Apartment Therapy, and elsewhere.

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2021

CHRISTIE GREEN Christie Green catalyzes connection through food. She is a mother, hunter, writer, and landscape architect in Santa Fe. SHAHID MUSTAFA Shahid Mustafa owns and runs Taylor Hood Farms, practicing regenerative organic agriculture on over three acres in El Paso, Texas, and offering a CSA with home delivery. Through his nonprofit organization DYGUP/Sustain (DYGUP stands for Developing Youth from the Ground Up), he has worked with the science department at Las Cruces High School to implement an environmental literacy curriculum and establish a one-acre plot where students receive credit for helping with all stages of vegetable production. With plans to become a certified organic farm and train a new generation of farmers, he hopes his efforts will be an inspiration for farmers to adopt the regenerative organic practice.

BRIANA OLSON Briana Olson is a writer, co-editor of edible New Mexico, and lead editor for the New Farmer's Almanac.

MARISA THOMPSON Marisa Thompson is New Mexico State University's Extension Urban Horticulture Specialist, responsible for active extension and research programs supporting sustainable horticulture in New Mexico. In addition to studying landscape mulches and tomatoes, her research interests include abiotic plant stressors like wind, cold, heat, drought, and soil compaction. She writes a weekly gardening column, Southwest Yard & Garden, which is published in newspapers and magazines across the state and on her blog. Readers can access the column archives and other hort-related resources at desertblooms.nmsu.edu. Find her on social media @NMdesertblooms.

THE ART OF ADVENTURE

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LOCAL HEROES

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TO OUR 2021 LOCAL HEROES

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An edible Local Hero is an exceptional individual, business, or organization making a positive impact on New Mexico's food systems. These honorees nurture our communities through food, service, and socially and environmentally sustainable business practices. Edible New Mexico readers nominate and vote for their favorite local chefs, growers, artisans, advocates, and other food professionals in two dozen categories. In each issue of edible, we feature interviews with a handful of the winners, allowing us to get better acquainted with them and the important work they do. Please join us in thanking these Local Heroes for being at the forefront of New Mexico's local food movement.

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BEST RESTAURANT Albuquerque Oni Santa Fe Jambo Cafe y Greater New Mexico Bar Castañeda, Las Vegas

BEST FARM

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Central & Southern New Mexico Tres Hermanas Farm, Albuquerque q Northern New Mexico Montoya Orchard, Velarde

Photo by Rick Scibelli

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w Albuquerque Israel Rivera, The Shop Breakfast & Lunch w Santa Fe Allison Jenkins, Arroyo Vino e Greater New Mexico Laura Crucet, Pig & Fig, White Rock r

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BEST BEVERAGE ARTISAN

BEST BEVERAGE ARTISAN Spirits Hollow Spirits u Distillery, Albuquerque

Wine New Mexico Hard Cider, Santa Fe Photo by Stacey M. Adams. edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2021

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BEST CHEF

Beer Ex Novo Brewing Company, Corrales t

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Photo by Douglas Merriam.

Non-Alcoholic Cutbow Coffee, Albuquerque

photo: Elizabeth Wells

We PlAnNeD ThE CeLeBrAtIoN, YoU SeLeCt YoUr FaVoRiTe LiBaTiOn. Tea at Los Poblanos is returning for the season! Hosted at John Gaw Meem’s 1935 masterpiece, Afternoon Tea at La Quinta promises to be an immersive cultural experience. Enjoy a beautiful selection of teas from Taos’ small-batch, handcrafted tea company, Tea.o.graphy, and our culinary team’s seasonally-driven take on a traditional afternoon tea menu, with a selection of sweet and savory bites.

Following service, you’ll be invited on a short tour, highlighting some of the remarkable features of the historic building and the artists who contributed, and you’ll leave with a small gift.

photo: Amy Carrara

If you enjoy something with a kick, join us this Father’s Day for a spectacular six-course tasting menu paired with six, brand new, wildly creative cocktails developed by the Bar Campo team.

The cocktails will feature seasonal ingredients from our farm, such as herbs and edible flowers, as well as house-made syrups, infusions and elixirs. Whether you’re a cocktail connoisseur, or simply curious about our award-winning bar and culinary programs, you’ll come away with new knowledge about our unique farm-to-table and bar models.

Check our website as we continue to update details for all of our exciting programming this spring and summer.

lospoblanos.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

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LOCAL HEROES

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TO OUR 2021 LOCAL HEROES

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BEST GASTROPUB

Nexus Brewery, Albuquerque

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BEST BAKER/BAKERY

Sarah Ciccotello, The Burque Bakehouse, Albuquerque

BEST FOOD TRUCK

BEST BEVERAGE PROGRAM

Vegos, Albuquerque

Still Spirits, Albuquerque d

SPECIALTY GROCER New Mexico Harvest, Albuquerque o

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Photo by Sergio Salvador.

BEST CAFÉ

Central & Southern New Mexico Farmacy, Albuquerque Northern New Mexico Sage Bakehouse, Santa Fe

BEST FOOD ARTISAN Rude Boy Cookies, Albuquerque i

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BEST NONPROFIT

OLLA AWARD

INNOVATOR: FOOD JUSTICE

SPOTLIGHT AWARD: FRONT OF HOUSE

Road Runner Food Bank, Albuquerque a

Micah Roseberry, Farmhouse Bakery and Café, Taos

Farm to Table, Santa Fe

Michael Trent, Server, Arable, Santa Fe

SPOTLIGHT AWARD: BACK OF HOUSE

s SUSTAINABILITY: PUBLIC HEALTH AND SAFETY

Downtown Growers' Market, Albuquerque s

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2021

Gabe Romero, Butcher, Campo, Albuquerque

SPOTLIGHT AWARD: FARMWORKER

Jose Garcia, New Mexico Farmworker

Wine Director

Kristina Hayden Bustamante

lunch • dinner bar • patios

Come celebrate this “Highest Distinction” with us!

CompoundRestaurant.com 505.982.4353 653 Canyon Road Santa Fe

photo: Gabriella Marks

LOCAL HEROES

Micah Roseberry OLLA AWARD

Photos by Stephanie Cameron The Olla Award recognizes individuals who have made significant contributions in the realm of good food work in New Mexico, and who are creating a more robust local food system. Nominations are submitted by the general public and the winner is determined by the edible team.

Left: Micah Roseberry. Right: Picadillo bison empanadas with raisins, tomatoes, onions, kalamata olives, and spices, simmered in a sweet and savory sauce, baked into a pastry dough crust.

While on a teaching assignment in Mexico in 2011, Micah Roseberry saw that the future of food sovereignty, the health of the environment, and the future of children were deeply intertwined. Returning to the United States, she taught sustainable farming at University of New Mexico-Taos and started the Farmhouse Café and Bakery, whose organic, local, USDA school lunch program serves one thousand meals daily. Roseberry directs the nonprofit Agriculture Implementation Research & Education (AIRE), which includes an educational

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project called Growing Community Now and provides support and consulting to other farming, education, and community projects. She has been an organic farmer and Waldorf educator for thirty-five years.

A few years back, you said, “The Farmhouse Café is a restaurant and bakery but it is also a community project.” Tell us about your vision for Farmhouse and the process of bringing it to life.

Farmhouse grew out of a project to preserve a historic two-hundredacre ranch south of the café, adjacent to Taos Pueblo and next to

WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

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Having been a farmer for twenty-five years, I knew one challenge to expanding production is finding a market. I decided to combine a market for local farmers and a pilot project to prove we can afford to eat organic, local food and save our pollinators with regenerative agriculture practices. Understanding the cultural link and saving traditional acequia water by growing local made me realize that it is imperative for kids to have food sovereignty . . . not just specialty farm-to-table restaurants, but getting this food into the school lunch program and teaching the importance of saving the pollinators. I started with ninety lunches at the UNM-Taos Kid’s Campus, and today the Farmhouse lunch program serves almost a thousand USDA meals a day.

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Farmhouse Café has been sourcing local from the start. What would your advice be to a chef or restaurant owner who sees buying from farmers as too expensive or too complicated?

Take time to connect with the community. See farmers and ranchers as an important link in a network that supports food sovereignty and sustainability. The value of purchasing local is multiplied many times beyond the monetary expenditure. Educating customers is key. Engaging with farmers that are building farming systems and realizing that as these networks are connected through markets, equipment, and storage, we as food establishments can leverage and support increased production and support each other through climate, economic, and health risk challenges. Producer co-ops like the Albuquerque-based Agri-Cultura Network and the fledgling Rios del Norte Farm and Ranch Co-op in northern New Mexico support farmers directly and always have a consistent variety of high-quality, local produce.

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Huevos rancheros: Corn tortillas layered with local pinto beans and cheddar cheese, served with red chile and topped with farm eggs.

Taos Mountain. It was fueled by a series of community events to raise awareness about local farming and ranching and the land being the “bread basket of Taos.” Harvest festivals, apple pressing, and hay rides got people out onto the land, and within a year the land was preserved, and I opened the café. The garden was planted before the doors opened. My son created daily specials, combining freshly harvested produce, local beef, and bison, which have become the mainstay of the Farmhouse menu.

I thought if I could teach for twenty-five years and coordinate a 160-family Waldorf-inspired school, it would be easy to start a restaurant. That was a huge miscalculation! My motto was building the local farming network, one seed at a time. Every mistake was an opportunity to connect with a customer about the mission and importance of eating local. I convinced even the dishwasher he was washing dishes for the butterflies.

What brought you to this work? Was there a pivotal moment that led you to start Farmhouse?

I was in the mountains with monarch butterflies in Mexico in 2011.

Returning to Taos, I read in the Wall Street Journal that monarchs were actively threatened—their population had dropped 59 percent.

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2021

Keeping our water rights and the cultural heritage of New Mexico is a vital outcome of this work. Opening the hearts of our customers through a delicious culinary experience is a beautiful way to increase support for local farmers and ranchers and ensure a lifelong love of local.

Growing Community Now, Farmhouse Café’s sister nonprofit, gives kids hands-on experience growing, cooking, and eating fresh food, and has also been working to partner farmers with local schools. What are some highlights from your work with Growing Community? What are you working on now?

We’ve been growing food and seeds with students for almost ten years.

The enthusiasm that children have for engaging with the plants and tasting different ways of preparing fresh food is contagious. Blue corn is always a favorite, with each ear a shining gem to be discovered. One student said, “This is just like opening a present at Christmas!” Kale is another favorite, with students asking if they can eat the kale in the garden rather than waiting to make smoothies. The annual seed ceremony held around the traditional San Ysidro farming day in May is a special time for students to share all the seeds that have been grown throughout the years. We also bring farmers and ranchers into the cafeteria to meet students. Survey results from Aspen Solutions consultants confirm that students who report that they know a farmer or rancher are 25 percent more likely to taste new foods and eat more fresh fruits and vegetables.

With students returning to classes, we are preparing to resume nutrition education classes, plant the outdoor gardens for full production, and harvest fresh lettuce from the greenhouses to make school salads.

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AIRE is a related effort. Tell us more about your role with AIRE and the farm-to-school grants.

Through the Farm to School USDA planning grant and the NM Zone grant, the Rios del Norte Farm and Ranch Co-op was founded to produce affordable, healthy food for the USDA school lunch program. Collaboration between the Taos County Economic Development Corporation, the Vet Corp, local producers, and AIRE is increasing availability and striving to lower the cost of production. The school nutrition director, kitchen managers, and staff are amazing and open to learning new recipes. They remember the traditional “scratch” cooking and are still baking rolls from scratch.

Soon, they will be using local Sonora wheat from Big Wheel Farm in Costilla.

Current projects include helping to build and manage school greenhouses and grow domes to provide fresh salad ingredients for a high school grab-n-go salad project. We are seeking funds for a food truck and mobile market project to take nutrition education classes and healthy farm food out to the surrounding neighborhoods this summer.

Additionally, AIRE is sponsoring a series of farm workshops, featuring local farmers and including lunch on the farm.

Last year was like no other. How did Farmhouse Café and Growing Community respond to the pandemic?

Initially, we had to weather a brief closing, but we ultimately made the commitment to remain open, thanks to the dedication of the Farmhouse team. Managers Isaac Carmona and Molly Chisolm led with flexibility and humor. I credit them with successfully steering Farmhouse through this last year of never-ending changes and challenges. Most importantly, we were able to keep our doors open and serve a bit of optimism, love, and local food to each customer and connect with the community who supports our vision. Now with spring weather, the patio is full of friends and visitors enjoying the freedom of sharing time, the incredible view, and good food. Who would have thought that homemade carrot cake could be so vital?

AIRE and Growing Community Now met the pandemic by increasing our Taos Community Farms CSA from 60 to 150 families. We provided stipends for high school interns on our Farmhouse garden site and aggregated local vegetables and fruit from fifteen different producers to help them get through when restaurants closed during COVID-19. We were able to incorporate the additional farm food in one thousand Farmto-Family boxes for Pueblo families and others in need. AIRE collaborated with Rios del Norte to sell beef directly to families to help ranchers increase their viability and weather the processing bottlenecks. Rios del Norte purchased over 150 tons of hay to help local ranchers keep their breeding stock and yearlings through the drought conditions. These programs are continuing this spring. airetaos.org, growingcommunitynow.org, farmhousetaos.com

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green guide SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

EDIBLE INGREDIENT

KOHLRABI & FENNEL SLAW Serves 4–6 as a side • Prep Time: 15 minutes; Total Time: 15 minutes • Level: Easy Kohlrabi and fennel make their appearance at farmers markets in the late spring and early summer months. This slaw recipe packs 12 grams of fiber in 1 serving. Kohlrabi, fennel, and apples combined are an excellent source of vitamin C, vitamin B6, beta-carotene, folate, potassium, phosphorus, and calcium.

1 medium kohlrabi with leaves 1 medium fennel bulb with fronds 1 small apple 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons cider vinegar 2 teaspoons whole-grain mustard 2 teaspoons shallot, minced 1 teaspoon honey 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper 1/3 cup toasted pecans, chopped Remove kohlrabi stems and cut off tough outer skin, reserving leaves. Chiffonade kohlrabi leaves. Peel and core apple. Slice kohlrabi and apple into matchstick-size pieces. Chop enough fennel fronds to equal 1/4 cup and thinly slice the bulb lengthwise.

In a large bowl, whisk together oil, vinegar, mustard, shallot, honey, salt, and pepper. Add fennel and fronds, kohlrabi and leaves, apple, and pecans, and gently stir to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Serve chilled. Refrigerate for up to 1 day.

EDIBLE INGREDIENT SPONSORED BY

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2021

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GREEN GUIDE SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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GREEN GUIDE SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

LA FINCA BOWLS La Finca Bowls is a fast & fresh, build-to-order grain and green bowl restaurant focused on sourcing as many local and organic ingredients as possible. Locally owned and operated, from-scratch kitchen focused on sustainability. 100% gluten free. Dietary sensitive. Sustainably sourced proteins. Vegan and vegetarian friendly options.

Seasonal specials. Weekly composted food scraps. 100% Compostable packaging.

Visit lafincabowls.square.site to order online & learn more! 300 Broadway NE, Ste G, Albuquerque

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BARRIO BRINERY Bringing fine fermented foods to Santa Fe. We make our products by handcrafting small batches of flavorful goodness using only the finest ingredients. Our sauerkraut, pickles, and other products are probiotic, fat free, gluten free, vegan, and delicious! 1413-B W Alameda, Santa Fe, 505-699-9812, barriobrinery.com

LOS POBLANOS With fields of lavender, guest rooms with operable windows, organic menus at Campo and acres of open space, wellness is around every corner at Los Poblanos. This year, Los Poblanos is expanding wellness offerings even further. Keep checking their website for updates. 4803 Rio Grande NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2021

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FACES OF FOOD

Rhizome Revolution FULL CIRCLE MUSHROOMS IMPLEMENTS REGENERATIVE PLAN FOR PECAN GROWER

By Shahid Mustafa · Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Ximena Zamacona, in her words, believes that agriculture can be “a part of the problem, as well as a part of the solution.” A chemist who also minored in agriculture, and who has worked in high-tech greenhouses producing tomatoes and other vegetables, Zamacona started Full Circle Mushrooms in La Mesa in September 2019, first with trials and then full production beginning in January 2020. Nestled in the heart of the historic orchards of Stahmanns Pecans off of Highway 28,

Full Circle Mushrooms currently offers four different types of specialty mushrooms: black pearl, oyster, lion’s mane, and shiitake. Zamacona, who moved to the Las Cruces area in early 2019 after living in various Southwestern cities, is originally from Santiago de Querétaro in central Mexico. She has always had a strong connection to the environment, From left, clockwise: Buckwheat Millet Sourdough, and minored in agriculture and become more Green n'“to Redbetter Chileunderstand Cheese Sourdough, Rosemary Cheddar Sourdough, Rye Molasses and Fennel deeply connected.”

Sourdough, and Sprouted Rye Sourdough.

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Top left: Young black pearl mushrooms. Bottom left: Inoculated mushroom bags. Right: Ximena Zamacona with oyster mushrooms.

Zamacona’s goal is to help reduce the carbon footprint at Stahmanns while expanding and creating greater capacity to produce mushrooms. Pruning is a necessary annual requirement of pecan farming, and the branches left behind are generally considered waste.

Some farmers burn their wood, and some chip and compost their wood, but due to the density and lignin structure of the pecan wood, it takes a long time to biodegrade. Because of this quality, pecan wood makes an excellent substrate for growing mushrooms because mushrooms love hardwood. By creating a substrate of mostly pecan wood, along with other agricultural byproducts such as soybean hulls, Full Circle is able to avoid importing substrate from distant sources. It 24

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2021

also satisfies Zamacona’s commitment to environmental stewardship.

“I hated seeing the wood just being burned, plus this is a great way to recycle it,” she says.

When I recently visited her production site, she gave me a tour of her facilities, where it was apparent how many controls have to be in place in order to commercially produce specialty mushrooms in the desert. As producers, we are often faced with the challenge of reducing our environmental impact while still being able to create the necessary conditions for production. Zamacona’s experience in high-tech greenhouse production and chemistry have obviously

helped her design and develop systemic protocols, and because she believes that “we should be working with nature, and not against it,” she has deliberately instituted regenerative practices as part of Full Circle’s operations. In efforts to further reduce the operation’s carbon footprint, Zamacona has also begun the process of building an on-site composting facility that will incorporate spent substrate, worms for vermicomposting, and, hopefully, spent materials from local breweries and coffee roasters. She says the goal is to “close the circle” by creating high-quality compost that can be used on the farm.

Zamacona’s work is benefiting from a growing interest in mushrooms, which I witnessed firsthand while working as a natural foods retail operator for twenty-five years. From simple white button varieties to portobello, shiitake, and oyster, there has been a steady increase in produce-case shelf space for culinary mushrooms.

Recent interest in plant-based diets, high-antioxidant superfoods, and the growing development of “foodie” culture seems to have elevated the gourmet status of and culinary interest in mushrooms.

They are also valued by vegans because they are the only vegan, non-fortified dietary source of vitamin D, as well as several minerals that are hard to obtain from a vegan diet, such as copper, iron, selenium, potassium, and phosphorus. Mushrooms are fat free, low sodium, low calorie, and cholesterol free, so it’s hard to go wrong with mushrooms in the diet.

According to mycologist Paul Stamets, “Mushrooms have many helpful nutrients, including beta-glucans for immune enhancement, ergothioneine for antioxidative potentiation, nerve-growth stimulators for helping brain function, and antimicrobial compounds for limiting viruses.” The vitamin and supplement industry has taken notice of mushrooms in a major way, offering them in capsules and powders, as well as integrating them into blends associated with performance and wellness. Mushrooms’ beta-glucans (a polysaccharide carbohydrate) has been found to help reduce inflammation and balance the immune system. Also, they are rich in antioxidants that protect from the oxidative damage of environmental toxins.

I happened to discover the benefits of mushrooms when I began training for a marathon. I was given a sample bottle of cordyceps mushrooms and told they would help provide energy. I immediately noticed an increase in my stamina, and as I researched them, I learned that they are touted for their blood-oxygenating properties.

I’ve since found other things to do with my time than running for four hours a day, but I still take cordyceps supplements for wellness and prevention.

Zamacona’s agricultural vision is a cultural one as well. According to Zamacona, Full Circle Mushrooms intends to be recognized as a woman-owned company. Her website states: “[Full Circle] is proudly and unapologetically woman-owned and I hope to set an image and an example for future generations of girls.” With a full-circle approach that is social minded and focused on the health of both body and environment, Zamacona is demonstrating that agriculture can indeed be part of the solution. fullcirclemushrooms.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

25

FERMENTI'S PARADOX

Seoul Food MI YOUNG’S FARM KOREAN SEOUL FOOD KIMCHI IS FOOD FOR HEALTH AND HAPPINESS Words and Photos by Ungelbah Dávila-Shivers

Jenn Yi at 50/50 Coffee House & Pub in Albuquerque, where she makes her kimchi.

Jenn Yi lifts the earthy-brown lid of her ceramic crock, revealing a blend of cabbage, ginger, garlic, green onions, daikon radishes, serrano peppers, fish sauce, and salt. In only its first of a three-tofour-day-long salt fermentation process, this batch of Mi Young’s Farm Korean Seoul Food Kimchi still resembles soup more than the probiotic-rich superfood and staple of Korean cuisine. A ceramic weight, in the shape of a half moon, floats on top, keeping the vegetables submerged in their brine. Over the next few days, Yi will smell, taste, look at, and listen to her kimchi to know when it is ready, in a practice-perfected and instinct-driven process that she has inherited from a very long line of Korean kimchi masters.

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2021

“For me, kimchi is soul food that really connects me to my childhood in Korea,” says Yi, who lovingly creates her kimchi in the kitchen at 50/50 Coffee House & Pub near UNM’s main campus in Albuquerque. Currently, Yi’s kimchi is sold by the pint jar at Tiny Grocer ABQ and Keller’s Farm Store in Albuquerque, at Polk's Folly Farm Butcher Shop & Farm Stand in Cedar Crest, at Barrio Brinery in Santa Fe, and through the New Mexico Harvest community supported agriculture (CSA) program. This year Yi and her kimchi will also be making an appearance at the Santa Fe Farmers Market and at the Downtown Growers' Market and Rail Yards Market, both in Albuquerque.

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Above: Jenn Yi with ceramic crock containing a blend of cabbage, ginger, garlic, green onions, daikon radishes, serrano peppers, fish sauce, and salt. Right: Several varieties of Mi Young's Farm Korean Seoul Food Kimchi.

Yi’s signature line of Mi Young’s Farm Korean Seoul Food Kimchi includes a chile-free mild recipe that has all of the flavor of her other kimchi minus the heat, a traditional Korean blend with some spice, plus an extra spicy and a fire hot for those who enjoy a more fiery flavor. She also offers a vegan option that tastes much like the traditional but without the fish sauce. Her newest creation stars daikon radishes, fermented in kimchi fashion, that have a pickled flavor all their own, as well as a striking pink color that occurs naturally in the brining process.

Because lactic acid, the bacteria that creates the probiotics in kimchi during fermentation, is present to some degree in almost all vegetation, Yi says it’s easy to get creative with salt fermentation. Every batch of kimchi is started from scratch, meaning she uses no mother brine or starter; rather, she uses salt to “sweat out” the liquids in the vegetables to create their own brine. In the summer, she makes 28

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2021

a cucumber kimchi, and she has made an apple kimchi with fruit from Montoya Orchard in Velarde, where she farms. In Korea, some types of kimchi follow the seasons and what products are available in specific provinces, resulting in delicacies such as bossam kimchi that incorporates seafood and nuts. Yi tries to honor this tradition when making her seasonal variations.

“Customers tell me, ‘I’ve been feeling so much better since eating your kimchi.’ I tell them, ‘Ninety percent of serotonin is created in the gut, and probiotics in kimchi are good for the gut.’ So, I see kimchi as a happy food,” says Yi. “I don't work if I’m having an off day. I believe in putting good energy into my kimchi. Sometimes I even dance with my cabbages!”

Yi, who was born in Seoul, spent her childhood in Korea, where she says kimchi is “serious business,” with a museum completely devoted

to it. Most households, she says, have a refrigerator specifically for storing their kimchi. Because kimchi is fermented at room temperature, it is often made at home using recipes passed from generation to generation. The tangy, tantalizing scent of kimchi is as much a part of the essence of Korean life as the dish itself, which accompanies most meals.

Her jar of kimchi makes a fizzy noise as she cracks it open for a tasting, and the air fills with a deliciously savory garlic and vinegar aroma. “Each batch of kimchi is unique,” she says. “It’s a living food, so some batches are more lively than others.”

When Yi immigrated to the United States more than twenty years ago, kimchi was among the things she missed the most. In 2013, she created Mi Young’s Farm, named after her daughter, with her then husband. She began selling her kimchi at the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market in 2014, created from their homegrown and locally sourced produce. A few years later she also started wholesaling Mi Young’s Farm Korean Seoul Food Kimchi to restaurants and grocery stores.

“I was able to make a name for myself at the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market with my kimchi pancakes,” says Yi, who relocated to Albuquerque two years ago. But, as with so many, the unprecedented events of 2020 forced her to pivot her business model. “Because of the pandemic, I couldn’t sell food. I wondered if I’d even be able to keep my business alive.”

To stay afloat, Yi grew a variety of produce last year that she could sell at the farmers market. Utilizing portions of friends’ farmland in Velarde and the Albuquerque South Valley, she put in twelve one-hundred-foot rows of cabbages and purple daikon radishes for her kimchi, as well as iceberg lettuce, collard greens, carrots, beets, kale, and other produce to sell.

The silver lining of the pandemic, she says, is that it’s given her the freedom to experiment with different kimchi recipes. She’s developed a special green chile–infused kimchi for a local food truck that has done so well she’s considering adding it to her existing line of flavors.

“Kimchi is at the heart of everything I do,” says Yi, who hopes to grow awareness throughout the state about Korean food and the health benefits of kimchi. She hints at a possible ghost kitchen project later this year for different Korean street food recipes she’s developing.

Aside from adding kimchi on the side of meals, like a salsa, she teaches her customers to get creative. Kimchi makes a wonderful addition to a Bloody Mary, she says, and grinding it up with sprouted mung beans and a bit of water makes a batter that can be turned into the pancakes she’s so well known for. This year she will be selling her kimchi pancakes at the farmers markets again, but prepackaging them in stacks of five.

“Kimchi ties together all the most important things in my world,” says Yi. “My mother, my daughter, my culture, and this land. I’m grateful to be able to turn it into a livelihood.” instagram.com/miyoungs_farm

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29

AT THE CHEF’S TABLE

Q&A with Chef Kimnath Gyallay-Pap Interview and Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Chef Kimnath Gyallay-Pap, who goes by Chef Nath, calls her fare “inspired Khmer.” It’s a melding of her multiethnic heritage, blending Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, and her native Cambodian cuisine.

Born in Cambodia, Chef Nath grew up surrounded by Khmer (ethnic Cambodian) cooking. Her Thai great-grandmother had been a restaurateur, and her Vietnamese grandmother cooked for festivals in Buddhist temples.

Now Chef Nath brings her inspired Khmer cuisine to CHOMP, the new food hall in Santa Fe. She is the first food vendor to serve out of what will soon be many stalls offering diverse cuisines. I sat down with her in late March to talk about her new venture and learn a bit more about her story.

You have successfully been doing pop-ups and private catering for the last several years; why did you choose to be a part of the CHOMP food hall? Are you still offering private catering?

I am going on sixty this year, and I saw this as a sweet spot where I don’t have to take on the responsibility and overhead of opening a restaurant.

CHOMP allows me to continue to share my food with Santa Feans in a more manageable capacity. It also gives me a kitchen to work out of to continue to do my private catering, allowing me to continue to be able to offer Santa Fe my twist of Khmer food. I am doing a merging of my private catering menu to offer less expensive options during the day for lunch, like tom yum and pad thai. At night, you will find more of the items I provide through my catering, including lemongrass turmeric salmon and red curry chicken.

How has the landscape for Asian cuisine changed in the Southwest over the past twenty years?

Twenty years ago when I lived in Crestone, Colorado, a small town, I was the only Asian gig in town. When I came to the United States, there were many Vietnamese, Chinese, and Thai restaurants, but not many Laos/Cambodian restaurants. So it was a value add for me to do Khmer cuisine in Crestone. Twenty years later, this remains the same, and especially in the Southwest. I want to continue to bring that cuisine to Santa Fe. What is Khmer cuisine? How is it different from other cuisines in your family?

Cambodian cuisine is different from Thai cuisine because Thai food is usually spicy and has a lot of heat. Vietnamese is more fresh cuisine and uses a lot of raw ingredients. Cambodian is mild, but it is very much inspired by Thai and Vietnamese cuisine.

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2021

Are there any ingredients that are unique to Khmer cuisine?

Yes, tamarind and palm sugar. Many Asian cuisines use MSG, but in Cambodian cuisine, we use palm sugar instead. Most of my food uses tamarind. I make pad thai with tamarind instead of lime.

How did you source ingredients when you first began cooking in Crestone? What are some of the key ingredients in your cooking?

Has it become easier to source those things in general?

Whenever my family and I travel to Cambodia, we bring back ingredients. When we go to Cambodia, we go to the tamarind trees; we harvest the tamarind and peel and dry it. We brought over a hundred

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kilograms back on our last trip there, and I still have a good supply.

Organic star anise, coriander, and other spices are more accessible to source here. I don’t buy palm sugar from Asian markets here because it isn’t pure, so I use coconut sugar instead. CHOMP is helping me to find more wholesale suppliers now that I am cooking on a larger scale.

In your early life you studied child psychology and were a teacher; what drew you to cooking?

In 1979, after Khmer Rouge, I trained as a preschool teacher and studied psychology for two years—I worked in the education department until 1991, when I met my husband. We moved to the United States in 1999, and when I arrived I didn’t know what to do because I had to have a certificate to teach here.

Before you left Cambodia, a woman called Auntie taught you to make your first curry, and you continued your education during regular trips back to your homeland. Tell us more about how this influenced you as a cook.

In 1986, I met Chef Auntie at the market. She had worked in the royal palace before the Khmer Rouge regime. She wanted to know why, as a woman, I didn’t know how to cook. I told her I didn’t want to learn to cook.

When my husband and I married, I still didn’t cook. I would get food from different restaurants until one day, I saw that they were deep-frying the chicken instead of steaming it, which I didn’t think was right, and I was spending too much money on restaurant food.

I wanted my husband to eat better than he had as a single man, so I sought out Auntie’s instruction. For my husband, I wanted to share love through the food. Before I left Cambodia, Auntie taught me to make my first curry, and my education continued during regular trips back to Cambodia.

Auntie took me in as a student because she had lost all her children during the Khmer Rouge campaign. When she took me in, she told 32

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2021

Tom yum with lobster tail.

me never to tell of or share her recipes. Eventually, Auntie passed away when a thief robbed and killed her.

How often did you go back to Cambodia to study with Auntie?

Almost every year, I would go back until my father passed away, and then I could no longer visit Cambodia.

What was the moment that made you turn to cooking professionally?

When I arrived in Crestone, I used my husband’s cookbooks to continue to teach myself. I wanted to cook well so that my family and I could eat well, and then I started cooking for my community. When I took a trip to Cambodia to meet with Auntie again, she asked me to make her my curry. She threw it all in the garbage can. She said, “You might be able to fool most Americans, they will eat anything, but for the well traveled, they will not be fooled.”

I learned the basics from Auntie and then learned to change the dishes and make them my own. My cooking draws on my Vietnamese and Chinese roots as well as my Khmer roots. My customers say my pad thai is not pad thai because it uses different ingredients—but they also say it’s better.

Is there anything else you want to share with edible readers?

I don’t care about being a five-star restaurant. The thing I care about is healthy, quality food made with care. I love to see people healthy.

When they finish their food, I feel like I have added merit to their lives. The same food you will eat at a private dining event with me, you will experience at CHOMP. This interview was edited for length and clarity.

CHOMP is located at 505 Cerrillos in Santa Fe. chefnath.com

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Left: Mario Holguin from La Semilla Farm Fresh Mobile Market. Top right: Ralph Loya from Growing with Sara Farm.

Bottom right: Josh Jasso at La Semilla Community Farm. Photos courtesy of La Semilla Food Center.

“You can’t really talk about justice and equity without talking about land,” said Krysten Aguilar, co–executive director of La Semilla Food Center, a nonprofit based in southern New Mexico and El Paso whose mission is to create a sustainable, equitable food system in the region.

“It’s a source of stability and wealth for communities,” she continued.

“If you don’t have sovereignty over land, well, that’s how people wield power over others, by controlling resources.”

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2021

La Semilla grew out of a community garden project to meet the need for an organization focused on a systems-wide approach to the root causes of hunger and food insecurity. These issues are often, if not always, rooted in inequity and injustice, particularly in communities of color. The organization’s latest enterprise is the formulation and shepherding of the New Mexico Healthy Food Financing Act (HFFA), an initiative that will provide loans, forgivable loans, and Frank Holloway, co-owner of Hollow Spirits.

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grants that support the food economy in underserved communities.

The legislation had unanimous senate support and passed to the house during the regular session in March 2021, where the House Health & Human Services Committee recommended its passage. “One of the really exciting things about [the HFFA] is that the community has just been amazingly supportive and has pushed and championed this from so many different organizations,” said Aguilar. “This kind of stuff doesn't come to fruition with the efforts of one person and one group. It truly has been a community-driven effort.” It is fitting, and to the folks at La Semilla, encouraging, that an initiative that could dramatically increase the welfare of the state’s most vulnerable citizens has such widespread community support.

This legislation could be pivotal in New Mexico. The state consistently has the first- or second-highest rates of child poverty in the country, which correlates with a wide range of social and economic problems, hunger being one of the most dire. Youth in New Mexico have the highest rates of food insecurity in the nation, with about one in four children having unstable access to healthy food, according to Feeding America. Over 40 percent of New Mexican households receive SNAP benefits. As such, the state is ripe for an injection of capital that supports food economy and infrastructure, and creates long-term benefits—increased regional wealth, increased access to healthy food, and increased connection to land and community. “It’s one of those rare win-wins that really has a ripple effect,” said Aguilar.

The Healthy Food Financing Act, sponsored by Senator Carrie Hamblen and Representative Angelica Rubio, is based on a framework called Equitable Food Oriented Development (EFOD). The EFOD structure, which stems from a recognition that traditional lending models were not serving the needs of communities of color, aims to create healthier food systems and economies in marginalized communities. Prioritizing long-term impact and forgivable and “patient” loan structures, EFOD strives to recapitalize communities that have suffered historic divestment through traditional community-based food economy development. La Semilla is part of the national EFOD steering committee, and Aguilar explained that they “thought it was really important to include that framework, and that understanding of justice and equity in capitalizing these projects. We thought it was vital to inject the HFFA with those concepts and . . . really root it in justice and equity.”

The New Mexico Department of Agriculture boasts that agriculture is one of the state’s principal industries, and the state is increasing its output annually. But as Aguilar explained, the state exports 97 percent of its agricultural products and spends $6.5 billion a year on imported food. Food shortage isn’t the problem; access and equity is. New Mexico’s local food chain—like all local food chains—competes against a conventional global supply chain that is highly subsidized. The low-interest loans, forgivable loans, and grant packages that the HFFA would provide to regional farms, food hubs, and food retail operations in underserved communities would give the local food economy support similar to the kind that the mass-produced food supply chain receives.

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2021

La Semilla is working closely with New Mexico’s Economic Development Department to make the HFFA a public-private partnership, bringing in private impact investors and philanthropic organizations to complement the investment from the state. The HFFA model has been used in more than a dozen other states and cities, and has been around for over a decade. Aguilar explained that while many of these projects have emphasized retail, that approach would reach fewer people and have much less impact in a largely rural state like New Mexico. Therefore, implementation in New Mexico will take a broader approach, with funds supporting food production, distribution, processing, and marketing, in an effort to reach more of New Mexico's most underserved populations. The bill is also specifically designed to increase investment and improve systems in low- and moderate-income communities that are underserved in terms of food access. BIPOC folks and business owners will be prioritized, as well as agroecological and regenerative farming practices. “The hope is that this will be a stepping stone,” said Aguilar, “to start putting these pieces in place one by one, so maybe small farmers are able to aggregate all of the greens or all of the onions from thirty small farmers in order to fulfill an order to a school district.”

There are huge potential economic benefits to the HFFA, as well as positive environmental and health outcomes. An overlooked and equally important benefit is to the cultural and civic life of our state.

“Nobody got into farming to get rich,” said Aguilar. “There’s something else that happens when we have that relationship with the land.

Our [farmers and farmworkers] should be able to feed their families, yes, but there is something deeper that is uniquely human about it.”

She went on to describe La Semilla’s vision for the ideal regional food system in New Mexico, one that supports the collective relationship to land and allows people to make a living and feed their communities and families in a healthy way. She described a food system in which farmers who are retiring can connect with young people who want to farm, instead of selling their land for development, and where Indigenous communities can grow and consume and build their lives around their traditional foods. This vision is far from utopian: it is a necessary component of an equitable, sustainable society. lasemillafoodcenter.org

NOTE: While the HFFA did not ultimately reach the house floor for a vote in 2021, Senator Hamblen allocated $100,000 for the program, and La Semilla and other partners are working to secure additional funds and to solidify support for the bill leading up to the next legislative session. La Semilla’s hope is that it is the first of many steps toward the vision of an egalitarian, sovereign food economy in New Mexico.

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TOUCH AND GROW

Herb Appeal THE HERB BLURB

By Marisa Thompson Photo by Sunny Forest.

Talk about a rewarding bunch of plants to grow in New Mexico!

Many herbs thrive in our climate, are easy to grow (even in containers, balconies, and windowsills), and can be harvested continually throughout the season. Parsley, rosemary, and chives are examples of a few with leaves that are particularly cold hardy and can be harvested in some gardens year-round. Because herbs grow quickly, you can be flexible with when and where you plant seeds or transplant seedlings.

quickly, especially the small ones, so I paint the black grow pots lighter colors to reflect sunlight, cluster them together to shade each other, and add simple ollas to the soil (porous, unglazed terra cotta containers without drainage holes). Burying ollas lets me water quickly while the soil soaks up the water slowly. (For tips on using ollas and making them at home, visit my weekly gardening blog at nmsudesertblooms. blogspot.com and search for the term “olla.”)

I’m normally all about trees and tree care. Water scarcity and increasing temperatures scare me because even native, drought-tolerant trees require supplemental irrigation in our urban landscapes, and not just during establishment. The bigger a tree gets, the more water it requires. Like many local experts who love trees and are worried about their water needs, I’m pivoting my focus toward shrubs, ornamental grasses, and even herbaceous (nonwoody) annuals and perennials.

Annuals are plants that complete their entire life cycle from seed to seed in a single year or less and tend to be killed by frost. Perennial plants can continue to grow year after year, either by forming new branches and leaves on woody stems or regrowing up from the roots each spring.

To conserve water, I position the pots around landscape plants so that the water draining through can reach roots in the ground. This also reduces mess on the nonporous patio and eliminates pools of standing water in saucers. In the ground, I’ve had great luck with basil, fennel, parsley, rosemary, and sage. Mulching around the base with fibrous plant material can help hold moisture in the soil. Try old leaves, pine needles, woodchips, bark bits, or pecan shells. Thicker mulch layers are also wonderful for weed control.

I grow several types of basil, mint, dill, oregano, chives, and parsley in containers alongside my patio each year. Containers dry out 38

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2021

The “Mediterranean” herbs—think marinara spices like basil, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, and thyme—are famous for growing well in sunny, dry, sandy sites. Good drainage is vital for many herbs.

Lavender is famous for root rot when the soil stays moist too long. A common mistake is trying to amend clay soil and improve drainage by adding sand to the planting hole or gravel to the bottom of a

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Illustration by Olga Serova.

container. These strategies may seem intuitive because water moves more quickly through rock than clay, but the laws of cohesion and adhesion are also at play: materials with relatively smaller pore spaces, like clay or even potting mix, hold more water than materials like sand or gravel with larger pore spaces. So in a sand-filled hole, water flows quickly through the sand at first, but then the soil underneath with smaller pores takes so long to absorb the water that it acts as a bowl, holding water in the sandy hole with the rotting roots. Eventually, as water soaks into the clay, the water is so tightly held in the tiny pore spaces that the sandy hole gets bone dry, but watering again from the top further exacerbates the bowl effect. Conversely, rocks at the bottom of a container do not help with drainage because after gravity pulls excess water down through the container holes, a bunch of water is still stuck in the smaller potting soil pores with nowhere to go. Water stagnates there, roots die back, and it becomes a perfect home for fungi and the fungus gnats that love them. Water has difficulty moving across the interface between different soil-type layers, and therefore so do roots. Solutions to soggy soils include 1) building a raised bed, 2) planting at the top of the side of a raised berm, or 3) using containers with potting mix. In clay soils, continue to water deeply (about two feet deep), just less frequently.

Herb gardening can be super economical, especially when comparing the huge and multiple harvests you can get from a single plant with the cost of just a few sprigs in the grocery store. Plus, when you have a mountain of basil leaves left over even after making pesto, you can treat herbs like a vegetable instead of a dainty garnish. Try this:

Add a spoonful of hummus, chicken salad, baba ghanoush, or any favorite spread to a cracker and top it with a whole basil leaf, like a green umbrella on top.

Abundant harvests can be grown by herb gardening with minimal water and labor and no commercial fertilizer. The best tip I’ve ever heard about caring for herbs is to pinch them back frequently, even if you’re not planning to use the trimmings in the kitchen. By pinching a few inches off the tops, you’re removing the terminal buds, which encourages lateral branching and a bushier, fuller plant.

One more important thought: As Lynn Ellen Doxon points out in her book High Desert Yards & Gardens, it’s important to remember that supporting adult butterflies and moths means also supporting them during their younger, more voracious caterpillar phase. The black swallowtail butterfly spends its early days as a green caterpillar with black and yellow stripes that can strip a dill plant in no time.

Instead of killing caterpillars on sight, consider plucking them from the plants you want to harvest from and placing them on nearby plants dedicated to the cause. Even the dreaded tomato hornworm metamorphosizes into the sphinx moth (aka hawk moth). Last year I brought a few potted ornamental chile pepper plants inside for decor, and my uncle pointed out a fat hornworm munching away at a tiny pepper. I moved her or him outside to do some much-needed pruning on a tomato plant that had gotten huge but wasn’t producing much fruit. I’m guessing that your herbs will be thriving so much you’ll have plenty to share with a young pollinator friend. If you’re not convinced, try planting a few extras just in case.

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES For specifics on growing dozens of herbs in New Mexico, find the New Mexico State University Extension Guide H-221, “Spices and Herbs for the Home Garden,” at aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_h/H221; local research results on lavender and medicinal herbs at alcaldesc.nmsu.edu/herbs.html; and links to two Ready, Set, GROW! gardening webinars, one from October 2020 titled “The Humble Herb” and the other (upcoming in July) titled “Medicinal Plants,” at desertblooms.nmsu.edu/ready-set-grow.html.

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Named one of “50 of the finest chocolate makers and chocolate shops across the country”

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Now serving you at two locations: Sawmill Market at 1909 Bellamah NW and 8114 Edith NE 505-433-4076 • eldorachocolate.com

Everything for Your Garden Veggies, Fruit Trees, Flowers, Shrubs & Perennials Located on the SW Corner of 4th St & Alameda Blvd Open Daily 9:00 AM–5:30PM

505.898.3562 AlamedaGreenhouseABQ.com 9515 4th St NW ■ Albuquerque, NM 87114

EIGHT AROUND THE STATE

Plant Based Plant-based diets are rising in popularity, with a record number of people choosing to eat vegan in 2020. In response, many restaurants have created menus that include delicious vegetable-forward dishes filled with various flavors and textures. Albuquerque, in particular, has a rapidly growing vegan scene and several Instagram accounts dedicated to finding the goods. We’ve rounded up a list of establishments that serve highly rated plant-based dishes, so whether you’re a vegan or vegetarian, or just want to include a few more veggies in your diet, you’ll discover many local options from which to choose. This is by no means an exhaustive list. If you have the lowdown on the best vegan eats in your city or county, drop us a line, and we will be sure to check them out.

MATA G VEGETARIAN KITCHEN What we are eating: Moroccan bowl with eggplant garbanzo stew, saffron couscous, and garlic-tofu-andvegetable kabob; matcha cookie; and black bean brownie.

Worth noting: Mata G is a vegetarian restaurant with many vegan options. They specialize in grab-and-go and you can find many of their items at various markets and institutions around the state. Mata G also offers a daily special of hot entrées served at the counter, each inspired by international cuisine—Asian, Italian, Lebanese, Indian, Moroccan, and Mexican.

Find: 116 Amherst SE, Albuquerque, 505-266-6374, mata-g.com

FARMESILLA What we are eating: Hand-rolled sweet potato flautas with green cabbage, avocado, and serrano slaw.

Worth noting: The deli and grab-and-go case complement FARMesilla’s core: utilizing many of the hundreds of local items, including produce, meat, eggs (chicken and quail), cheese, raw milk, salsas, spices, jellies, and more. The menu is simple and changes daily depending on the ingredients available and in season.

There are always vegan options on the menu, and it is easy to adjust most dishes to vegan only. They carry several local beers and wines on tap, and you can enjoy your meal on their beautiful patio.

Find: 1840 Avenida de Mesilla, Las Cruces, farmesilla.com

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304 N. Bullard St. Silver City, NM 575.388.4920 EatDrinkRevel.com local seasonal fare craft beer organic wine

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Mile Marker 15 Highway 68 Velarde NM 505-852-2820 blackmesawinery.com

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VEGOS / NOBODY CALLS ME CHICKEN What we are eating: Crispy, spicy Nobody Calls Me Chicken sandwich with golden goddess sauce.

Worth noting: It is the passion of Vegos to show our community that the dishes we grew up eating can still be enjoyed on a fully plant-based diet. We can attest that the Nobody Calls Me Chicken (NCMC) sandwich is a testament to this—if you hadn’t told us it was tofu, we would have never known. Vegos operates two food trucks, one specializing in New Mexican fare (VEGOS) and one they operate on Saturdays at the La Luz Coffee Hub (Nobody Calls Me Chicken) offering only the NCMC sandwich and tenders, with or without fries.

Find: Check out their food truck schedule in Albuquerque at vegosabq.com.

PLANTITA VEGAN BAKERY What we are eating: Tempeh and mushroom empanadas and biscuits with cashew pepper gravy.

Worth noting: Plantita offers sweet and savory baked goods from scratch, all plant based, all the time. They have an extensive menu offering bagels, quick breads, cinnamon rolls, many cookie varieties, empanadas, galettes, and even parbaked pizza crusts and pizza dough. All orders require seventy-two-hour notice.

Find: Order online in advance for pickup in Santa Fe. plantitaveganbakery.com.

LA FINCA BOWLS What we are eating: Build-a-bowl with edamame falafel, wild rice and lentils, coconut rice, roasted red peppers, arugula, roasted sweet potatoes, roasted pepper and cilantro aioli, papaya slaw, and crispy onions.

Worth noting: La Finca Bowls is a fast, fresh, and healthy build-to-order concept, focused on sourcing local and organic ingredients. With their build-a-bowl, the options really are endless. Plant-based protein options include edamame falafel or bean protein with more than twenty veggie options, plus grains and vegan sauces.

Find: 300 Broadway NE, Albuquerque, lafincabowls.square.site

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THE WAKE & TAKE What we are eating: Gaucho Burrito filled with brown rice, Anasazi beans, tempeh bacon, sweet corn, scallion, green chile, spicy teriyaki vinaigrette, avocado, and cilantro; and Odin Bowl with açaí, peanut butter, banana, blueberry, and house mylk base.

Worth noting: The Wake & Take is a plant-based café and juice bar that offers smoothies, artisan coffee, superfood bowls, wraps, and burritos for breakfast and lunch.

Although they only have vegan offerings, their menu is very approachable and there is something for everyone.

Find: 480 State Rd 150 (at Arroyo Seco Plaza), Arroyo Seco, shrublifefoods.com

PLANTY SWEET What we are eating: Planty Sweet bundt cakes—baker's choice assortment.

Worth noting: Planty Sweet is a 100 percent gluten-free and vegan bakery. They currently only offer pickup with orders made a week in advance. However, for those who can’t wait, they wholesale to a few coffee shops in town.

Their menu includes gorgeous custom cakes, cupcakes, cheesecakes, and glazed bundt cakes. Aside from being gluten free and plant based, they do not use refined sugars or hydrogenated oils, and try to use organic and local ingredients whenever possible.

Find: Order online for pickup in Albuquerque. plantysweet.weebly.com.

PAPER DOSA What we are eating: Build-your-own dosa kit with fresh house-made dosa batter, sambar, tomato curry, and tomato chutney.

Worth noting: Although Paper Dosa is a fabulous place to dine for lunch and dinner, we enjoyed designing a signature kit with dosa batter and curries to enjoy our feast at home.

They offer a video tutorial on their website that made our first attempt at dosa making a success and can be an entertaining activity for kids and adults alike. A variety of items on their menu are vegetarian and vegan friendly.

Find: 551 W Cordova, Santa Fe, paper-dosa.com

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Mocktails

A SHRUB, A TONIC, AND A SIMPLE SYRUP WALK OUT OF A BAR Recipes and photos by Stephanie Cameron

Left to right: Lavender basil mocktail, Art of Flying Earl Grey mocktail, carrot lemon mocktail.

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COOKING FRESH

Mocktails are having a moment. These nonalcoholic drinks that resemble cocktails are fun to play with when using an abundance of seasonal ingredients and herbs. In Los Angeles, 83 percent of bar managers surveyed by Distill Ventures in 2019 said that no-proof drinking is part of a growing trend. According to Google Trends, the booze-free movement is not just coming from bars; online searches for the word “mocktail” are up 42 percent over the past year.

Those stats hold up in our experience. After last year, when I found myself saying, “It’s five o’clock somewhere,” multiple times in any given week, I was ready to seek ways to trim alcohol consumption but still get the experience of mixing up something fun and fizzy for happy hour. For this edition of Cooking Fresh, we’ll create several mixers to build a mocktail repository that you can enjoy as is or spike on the weekends for cocktail hour. These handcrafted, zero-proof recipes will give you multiple options for celebrating the early summer days. ​

SIMPLE SYRUPS ​

The possibilities with simple syrup are endless. Equal parts water and sugar is the standard ratio, but you can also do a 1:2 water to sugar ratio for a more viscous mocktail.

Steeping herbs and teas in simple syrup creates the basis for hundreds of possible variations for mocktails or cocktails.

We have provided a few ideas here, but don’t be afraid to experiment with whatever is growing in the garden. You can also try combining syrups and serving them with various seltzers or ginger beer. ​

LAVENDER BASIL SYRUP ​

Syrup (makes 1 1/2 cups) 1 cup water 1 cup granulated sugar 2 tablespoons lavender flower buds 1 cup fresh basil Mocktail (makes 4) 1 pint blueberries 1/2 cup lemon juice, freshly squeezed 3/4 cup lavender basil syrup 1 1/2 cups soda water

FOR SYRUP: Combine sugar and water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, frequently stirring to dissolve sugar.

Reduce heat, add lavender, and simmer for 2 minutes.

Remove from heat, add basil, and cover and steep for 30 minutes. Strain out basil and lavender; save and store the liquid in the refrigerator for up to a month.

FOR MOCKTAIL: In a medium-size pitcher, add the blueberries and lemon juice and muddle together until juices are released. Stir in simple syrup. Add 2 cups of ice and the soda water, and stir thoroughly. Pour into glasses with ice, and garnish with blueberries, lemon, and basil.

SPIKE IT: In a shaker with ice, combine 2 ounces gin, 1 ounce simple syrup, 1/2 ounce sweet vermouth, and 3/4 ounce lemon juice. Pour into a glass over ice and garnish with lemon peel and lavender sprig. ​

ART OF FLYING EARL GREY SIMPLE SYRUP Steeping tea in simple syrup can add a touch of bitterness and astringency to a nonalcoholic drink, similar to that found in bitters and digestifs used to make cocktails. ​ Syrup (makes 1 cup) 1 cup turbinado (raw) sugar 1/2 cup water 3 teaspoons Earl Grey (we use tea.o.graphy’s Art of Flying Earl Grey) Mocktail (makes 4) 1 ounce Earl Grey syrup 1/2 ounce lemon juice, freshly squeezed 4 ounces grapefruit juice, freshly squeezed Seltzer water FOR SYRUP: Combine sugar and water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, frequently stirring to dissolve sugar.

Remove from heat and add loose tea. Cover and let steep for 15 minutes. Strain through a coffee filter–lined sieve into a jar. Refrigerate for up to a month.

FOR MOCKTAIL: Fill a highball glass with crushed ice. Pour in Earl Grey syrup, lemon juice, and grapefruit juice. Top with 3–4 ounces seltzer water. Gently stir to combine, and serve.

SPIKE IT: In a shaker with ice, combine 1 ounce gin, 3/4 ounce lemon juice, and 1/2 ounce Earl Grey syrup.

Strain the liquid into champagne flute and top with dry champagne or prosecco. Garnish with a lemon twist.

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SPIKE IT: Add 2 ounces of your favorite vodk a to the Berry Mul e Mocktail recipe.

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CARROT LEMON SYRUP Syrup (makes 2 cups) 1 1/3 cups carrots, grated 5 lemons, juiced 1 orange, juiced 3/4 cup brown sugar In a Mason jar, stir together the carrot, lemon juice, orange juice, and sugar. Steep in the fridge for at least 3 hours and up to 24 hours, occasionally stirring or shaking to dissolve the sugar. Pour the mixture through a sieve into a large jug to separate the pulp. After separating, save the grated carrots to use in your favorite carrot cake recipe.

FOR MOCKTAIL: Pour 1 1/2 ounces of the carrot mixture into a glass, add ice, then top with 4 ounces of sparkling water.

SPIKE IT: In a cocktail shaker with ice, combine 2 ounces of whiskey with 4 ounces of carrot lemon syrup. Shake and pour over ice into a whiskey glass. Garnish with a lemon peel or wedge.

DIY GINGER BEER Making ginger beer is a bit of a risky business, but you will have a fizzy addition to your mocktail repertoire if you follow these instructions. After the ginger beer has finished fermenting, you can add fruit, simple syrup, or juice to create a customized mocktail, or drink it as is. The longer you allow the ginger beer to ferment, the more sugar is metabolized by the yeast, resulting in a less sweet and drier beverage.

pot with a clean kitchen towel and place it in a warm, dark part of your house for 3 hours.

Strain liquid into a large pitcher through a mesh strainer to remove all ginger bits. Pour ginger brew into a clean 2-liter plastic bottle. Do not fill the bottle to the top because the fermentation will yield carbon dioxide. Do not use glass bottles during this fermentation step because the glass can explode under pressure.

Place the bottle in a dark, warm room for 2–3 days. A few times a day, carefully loosen the cap to relieve some of the pressure without opening the bottle all the way. Set an alarm or reminder for this; if you skip this step, you might wind up with an explosion. Be very careful during this process, and do not point the bottle at anyone’s face or your own. After about 24 hours, you will notice yeast colonies floating on top of the liquid and settling to the bottom— this is normal.

Once the ginger beer has finished fermenting, you can transfer it to glass bottles and store it in the refrigerator. Be very careful when opening the bottles because the brew will continue to ferment and still be very carbonated. Always point bottles away from your face or anyone else’s face while opening.

A note about fermentation: While some ferments actually use strains of mold (like aged cheese), you’ll want to avoid consuming dangerous molds. Typically, if these molds grow, they’ll be on the surface of the ferment or around the rim of the vessels—avoid anything that’s colorful or black. If your ferment has black mold growing on it, toss it. Keeping your vessels clean and sterilizing them before use is the best way to avoid bad mold.

Makes 2 liters

BERRY MOCKTAIL MULE 2–3 knobs ginger, peeled and grated (1/4 cup grated) 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar 1/4 cup lemon juice, freshly squeezed 1 teaspoon active dry yeast or brewer’s yeast 1 cup granulated cane sugar 9 cups water, filtered or spring (do not use tap water) In a large stockpot, add cream of tartar, lemon juice, and ginger. Add 4 cups of water to the pot, and bring mixture to a boil. Turn heat to medium, add sugar, and stir continuously until all of the sugar dissolves. Remove from heat.

Add remaining 5 cups of water (cold) to the pot and allow it to cool to around 75°F. Add yeast and stir well. Cover the

Makes 1 mocktail

1/4 cup fresh berries 1/2 lime, cut in half 8 mint leaves 1 teaspoon sugar 8 ounces ginger beer Crushed ice FOR MOCKTAIL: Add washed berries, mint, lime wedges, and sugar to a large glass. Muddle ingredients together well. Add crushed ice on top and pour in ginger beer.

Garnish with a mint sprig.

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Left: Beet and coriander shrub mocktail. Right: Strawberry rhubarb shrub mocktail.

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SHRUBS Making shrubs is easy, the flavor possibilities are endless, and it is a great way to preserve seasonal fruit. Tomatoes, cucumbers, chile peppers, beets, stone fruits, citrus, and berries all make wonderful options.

STRAWBERRY RHUBARB SHRUB (COLD METHOD) Makes 2 cups

You can make shrubs through two methods, one cold and one hot. The hot method yields shrubs more quickly; the cold method can produce more complex flavors.

Shrubs are a matter of ratio: 1:1:1—1 part fruit, 1 part sugar, and 1 part vinegar.

3/4 cups fresh strawberries, stemmed and halved 3/4 cups rhubarb, cut into 1/2-inch slices 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar 1 1/4 cups apple cider vinegar

Most vinegar will work in shrubs. Think about how the fruit will pair with the vinegar flavor you select. Plain white vinegar can be too intense, but apple cider, white or red wine vinegar, rice vinegar, or champagne vinegar work well. Balsamic adds incredible depth, but you only need a small amount, with the rest of the vinegar ratio being cider or wine vinegar.

In a medium, nonreactive bowl, combine the strawberries and rhubarb. Pour sugar on top and mix until sugar coats all fruit. Let mixture sit for 1 hour at room temperature.

BEET AND CORIANDER SHRUB (HOT METHOD) Makes 1 cup

5 small beets, peeled and cut into small chunks 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar 1/2 cup white wine vinegar 1 cup granulated sugar 1 tablespoon coriander seeds, lightly crushed with a mortar and pestle 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 1 teaspoon kosher salt Heat sugar and vinegar on the stove, constantly stirring until sugar is dissolved. Add beets, spices, and salt, and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let mixture cool completely.

Strain out any solids through a cheesecloth-lined sieve.

Bottle in a sterile glass jar and allow it to rest in the refrigerator for 2–4 days. Add sugar or vinegar to taste.

Mash fruit with a wooden spoon to break it up. Let sit for another hour.

Mash fruit again until it is mushy. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let sit at room temperature for 24 hours.

Add in vinegar, stir, and let sit, covered, for 1 week, making sure to stir the mixture every day.

After a week, strain the fruit by pouring through a cheesecloth-lined sieve. Save the liquid in a sterilized Mason jar for up to 6 weeks in the refrigerator.

STORAGE: Store shrub syrups in the refrigerator. Tightly sealed, they can last for up to 6 months, but if opened often, they last only 3–6 weeks. Taste syrup before using to make sure the flavor is still good. Discard immediately if it has mold or any signs of fermentation, such as bubbling, cloudiness, or sliminess.

FOR MOCKTAIL: Combine 1 1/2 ounces of a shrub with 4 ounces of soda water in a glass with ice.

SPIKE IT: Add 1 1/2 ounces of your favorite spirit. Match the spirit to the shrub’s flavor profile. Vodka does little to alter the flavor of the shrub.

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TONIC Quinine is a compound found in the cinchona tree’s bark, and cinchona bark is a key ingredient in tonic water. In large amounts, cinchona is unsafe and can be deadly. Although not illegal, quinine can be dangerous unless professionally sourced and produced, so we are opting to do a tonic without cinchona to err on the side of caution for our readers.

We will use other ingredients to create the bitterness that this traditional bark adds.

Strain through a cheesecloth-lined strainer and discard peel and spices. While mixture is straining, make a simple syrup. Combine sugar and 1 cup water in a saucepan; heat and stir until sugar completely dissolves. Remove from heat and let cool. Add simple syrup to strained tonic. Store in the refrigerator.

FOR MOCKTAIL: Add tonic concentrate to sparkling water at a ratio of 1 part tonic to 3 parts water.

SPIKE IT: Stir 2 ounces of gin or vodka with 4 ounces of tonic water in a glass with ice.

NO-QUININE TONIC WATER Makes 2 1/2 cups

3 cups filtered water, divided 1 grapefruit 1 orange 1 lemon 1 lime 3 lemongrass stalks, chopped (use the bottom 2/3 of the stalks) 1/4 teaspoon citric acid (this acts as a preservative) 1/4 cup dandelion root 2 cloves star anise 1 cardamom pod, cracked 1 cinnamon stick 1/2 teaspoon dried lavender 1/4 teaspoon whole cloves 4 juniper berries 1/8 teaspoon salt 1 cup sugar Pour 2 cups of water into a medium-size, nonreactive saucepan. Using a vegetable peeler, add zest from the grapefruit, orange, lemon, and lime. Halve and juice the citrus fruits; add juice to saucepan. Add lemongrass, citric acid, dandelion root, all spices, and salt to the saucepan.

Bring mixture to a boil. Cover, leaving lid slightly askew, and simmer for 30 minutes. Set aside to cool completely.

Pour into a large, nonreactive container, such as a Mason jar, and chill for 2 days in the refrigerator, shaking it gently a couple of times a day.

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Farmworker Health Here at Home UNDERSTANDING THE REALITIES OF NEW MEXICO’S FARMWORKERS

By Anita Ashok Adalja

Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

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I

f you have purchased food at a farmers market or a grocery like La Montañita Co-op, or subscribed to a community supported agriculture (CSA) program, you can be sure that some, if not all, of your produce has been grown and handled by a farmworker.

More often than not, the work of farm laborers is unsung, unrecognized by the public, and at times unacknowledged by even the farm operators. Almost certainly, they are not the face of the farm.

This hidden facet of farms leads us to lean on stereotypes to understand the complexities of who America’s farmworkers are. Our minds may fill with media images of migrant laborers working on largescale commercial farms in California or Florida, moving from farm to farm, following the harvests. While this is still true for many who harvest our produce, the reality of the farm labor force has shifted over the past twenty years. More than 80 percent of the two to three million farmworkers in the United States are considered settled, meaning that they work and live within seventy-five miles of a single farm operation, rather than shuttling from farm to farm. Moreover, more than 54 percent are US citizens.

Contrary to popular imagery, labor on farms is not limited to largescale farms; even smaller farms (one to fifteen acres) employ farm labor either as employees or as interns or apprentices who are paid a monthly stipend. These individuals range from H-2A workers to career farmworkers to people pursuing first-time, hands-on experience in farming. No longer relying solely on word of mouth, farms can now advertise both seasonal and managerial positions through online resources including the Comfoods Jobs listserv, Good Food Jobs, New Mexico Landlink, Attra, and Craigslist. While it’s true that New Mexico small farms do not offer as many positions for seasonal farmworkers as more populated or well-resourced states like Virginia or California, as someone who has worked on three different farming operations in New Mexico, I can attest that these opportunities do exist, and though farmers markets customers may not see us, we are working behind the scenes.

The invisibility of farmworkers contributes to the devastating experiences of abuse and hardships endured by those responsible for our nourishment. Farmworkers are among the poorest workers in the United States: 25 percent earn wages below the federal poverty line, and a recent report from the Department of Labor found that the

“T

average annual income is $15,000 to $17,499 for a single farmworker and $20,000 to $24,999 for a family. Beyond low wages, farmworkers experience great physical tolls, including exposure to pesticides and heat stress, as well as boundless emotional hardships. According to a study by the National Center for Farmworker Health, over 30 percent of female farmworkers interviewed in North Carolina experienced significant symptoms of depression, and another study has found that 80 percent of female farmworkers in California have experienced on-the-job sexual harassment.

How do these widespread challenges compare to those of farmworkers working on small, local farms here in New Mexico? While these issues manifest more intensely on larger-scale farms or in an immigrant labor force, it’s important to understand they are systemic and impact all people working on farms that they do not own, including workers here at our go-to local farms.

For an industry that quite literally depends on the physical health and stamina of its employees, it is rare for a farm job to offer health care or wellness benefits. Twenty-five percent or more of farmworkers utilize subsidized community care clinics, and some are eligible for Medicaid or larger health care subsidies through the Affordable Care Act. A farmworker in Albuquerque, who wishes to remain anonymous, shared their experiences with health care benefits: “After four years of working on one farm, I got a $1,000 stipend for health insurance for the year. It didn’t cover all of my health insurance, but it offset most of it. That’s the most I’ve ever gotten.” Another farmworker told me, “I've never had any kind of health care through farming.

I’ve been fortunate to not have to take advantage of workers’ comp.”

In addition to extremely limited health care benefits, farm work as an industry embraces a blood-sweat-and-tears mentality. With this mentality comes an expectation that workers will prevail through physical hardships or even injury. A female laborer, who has worked at several different farming operations in New Mexico, described the physicality of farming: “The time that I spent farming has definitely put a toll on my body. I think my back is forever messed up. I think one of the things with farming is always feeling like you have to push yourself for various reasons, meeting deadlines, trying to beat a frost, and harvesting as fast as you can.” Because of the constant and consistent workload that farming offers—each day, hour, and

"The time that I spent farming has definitely put a toll on my body. I think my back is forever messed up. I think one of the things with farming is always feeling like you have to push yourself for various reasons, meeting deadlines, trying to beat a frost, and harvesting as fast as you can."

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Photo by Becky Scharff.

minute brings a new harvest, new challenge, new task—workers are often pressured, either by their supervisors or through peer pressure, to continue showing up to work, despite injury. This woman suffered a serious injury on a farm, had to pay for her own treatment, and continued working through her recovery. As she explained, “I did something to my back while farming. It got to a point where my entire left leg all the way down to my foot was numb. I couldn’t feel anything. It was really hard to walk. I found a chiropractor who would work with me on a sliding scale. . . . but I had to pay for everything out of pocket.” Reflecting on having worked through the injury, she added, “It was also one of those things—had I really had a conversation with someone [at the farm] about what was happening, they may have offered to compensate me in some way, but I never felt comfortable asking.”

Some New Mexico farms do offer paid time off that can assist in preventing farmworkers from working through injury, but that benefit doesn’t address a culture of pushing through at all costs. One seasoned farmworker disclosed, “Two of the farms that I’ve worked at have had paid time off even when I was not a member of management. One of the farms that I worked at only had paid time off if you were part of management. Regardless of if we had paid time off, if you took the time off you were kind of looked down upon because you weren’t pulling your weight. I’m allergic to bees and I’ve gotten stung a few times. It’s a life-threatening reaction, but I’m always expected to come to work the next day. I’ve sliced my finger a few times and had to hand-transplant with pretty severe finger wounds.”

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In addition to physical injury, farmworkers also experience compromised health and hygiene due to the lack of toilet access and handwashing stations in close proximity to the field. Because of largescale, nationwide food safety outbreaks, the FDA has required farms of a certain size and income to comply with standards that require bathroom and handwashing availability for farmworkers. However, many small farms, which comprise the majority of farms in New Mexico, are not legally required to comply. Because of this loophole, many farmworkers have very precarious bathroom situations on the job. As one New Mexico farmworker described, these challenges are especially difficult for women: “As a female, your boss always tells you to feel free to go to the bathroom wherever it may be, but when the bathroom is five to ten minutes away and you’re running back and forth to the bathroom, it’s an issue. They pretend like it’s not [an issue] in the beginning, but then it becomes one. Having to explain to your male boss that it’s physically impossible to keep in a menstrual cup for that long—that’s a pretty embarrassing conversation to have.”

The challenge faced by farm operators in New Mexico is unique because oftentimes farms are made up of several smaller fields that may be separated by a couple miles, and it can be a financial hardship to outfit each field with a bathroom station. “Most of the farms I've worked at have been spread out across multiple sites and multiple fields. The bathroom situation at those farms has been less than ideal.

There is usually only one actual bathroom with running water that you can use. Everywhere else, you have to find a secluded spot to pee or poop next to the field.” Even if the farm can afford multiple porta potties, they must be cleaned and maintained in order to provide a

safe and realistic option for workers. As another worker explained, “We had a porta potty that was pretty close to the fields where we were working, but it wasn’t cleaned very often. The placement was in direct sun all day in the summer. It didn’t feel sanitary at all.”

Different power structures and isolation make farmworkers especially vulnerable and contribute to an extremely high rate of sexual harassment on farms. In 2010, the Southern Poverty Law Center interviewed 150 undocumented farmworkers, and 100 percent stated that sexual harassment was an issue on farms where they worked.

This reality is not limited to undocumented farmworkers, nor largescale farms. One New Mexico farmworker explained that while she hasn’t experienced it herself, she has witnessed nearly all of her female coworkers get sexually harassed. “At one farm, not only was the owner actively sexually harassing almost every femme employee, he also was sexist, so that was also an issue. Even though I wasn't getting harassed, I was getting treated badly.” Another worker described the vulnerability she experiences working with a nearly all-male crew at a farm with no sexual harassment policy in place: “The farm owners set the tone of the farm, right? If they tolerate sexual harassment, or take part in it themselves, of course the rest of the crew is going to think it’s okay.

It’s one thing if you’re telling a sexist or inappropriate joke, but it’s a domino effect, and then you find yourself alone in a field with your male coworkers who now think it’s okay to harass you and ask you to do sexually explicit things.”

One of the biggest challenges with confronting the different forms of abuse that happen on farms is that many of these businesses are small enough that the human resources department is literally the farm owners themselves. In a large office or more formal work setting, an employee might launch a complaint anonymously or to a third party, and oftentimes formal protections, such as a whistleblower policy, are in place to encourage open communication. On small farms, by contrast, farmworkers could very well risk their job by lodging a complaint. One farmworker in New Mexico explained: “It’s been hard when there are problems. You always have to find a diplomatic way to say whatever the problem is, even if it’s a huge issue, because with the farm owner, it’s always an ego thing. They always think you’re attacking what they have created even though it’s an issue happening on the farm and doesn't necessarily have to do with them. . . . Rather than coming at it from a problem-solving approach, it’s like you're blaming them instead of asking them for a solution.” This kind of response can lead to farmworkers downplaying the issue or ignoring it altogether. Another farmworker shared, “I feel like things just don’t get addressed. My experience has been a lot of niceties—saying things to keep the peace, but then ultimately not doing anything about it.

It makes it extremely uncomfortable to have to bring up anything human-resources oriented because it’s always awkward.”

Food insecurity among farmworkers is also a harsh reality, with some studies showing that 66 percent of farmworkers are food insecure and do not have access to the very vegetables that they grow.

Farmworkers interviewed in New Mexico for this article reported the wages they make or have made as $350 a week, $10 an hour, $13.50 an hour, and $15 an hour, and lower wages often prohibit farmworkers

from enjoying the very fruits of their labor, unless the farm provides it to them as a benefit. One worker explained, “At least at the farm where I was able to get a CSA box, they offered us employee discounts for other stuff that they included in those boxes, so it was more affordable, but I definitely don't think I would have been able to make it without having SNAP benefits.” Another farmworker described the irony of this reality for farmworkers: “At almost every farm that I’ve worked at, even as a member of management, I’ve been eligible [for SNAP], which is in itself a crazy statement. I grow this amazing, healthy food, but I can’t afford to buy it. I probably wouldn’t eat it if I wasn't able to bring it home.” And even then, it’s not always a given that farmworkers are entitled to the produce that they grow.

Despite the significant hardships of working on farms, farmworker comradery prevails, and is often the reason people can emotionally labor through difficult situations on farms. In fact, a Gallup poll found that people who work with their best friends are seven times more likely to positively engage in their work than people who don’t work with close friends. Luckily on farms, the teamwork and shared experiences often create unbreakable bonds with fellow farmworkers.

As one farmworker working primarily in Bernalillo County put it, “I’ve never really felt that supported by farm owners, but farm crews have always been super supportive of each other. If it hadn’t been for the support from my peers, encouragement, and taking care of each other, I would not have fallen in love with farming. Working with the crew has always made it so worthwhile for me.”

It can be a rude awakening to hear about the brutal challenges faced by farmworkers, near and far, on large- and small-scale operations, and by migrants, immigrants, and US citizens alike. Privilege and opportunity, however, do play a role in people’s different experiences. One worker described farming alongside migrant laborers in Corrales, and the difference in how they were treated: “They [the migrant laborers] were separated from the crew. For the most part, I feel like there was a very clear distinction between what they were expected to do versus what the rest of the farm crew was expected to do. It felt exploitative toward them. They would be expected to fieldclean areas [such as pulling up drip tape and removing plastic mulch from the soil], pull weeds—more of the lower-skill tasks.” Another farmworker, while enduring abuse on farms, believes that the severity of her challenges do not compare to those of other farmworkers she has encountered: “Their struggle is definitely a lot harder than mine.

They have a lot less rights and they get paid a lot less than I do. It’s not really an option for them like it is for me. I chose to be a farmer, and a lot of them didn’t necessarily choose to be migrant laborers.

It’s how they can support their families. I think they need a lot more protection because they get used—people treat them like they are replaceable and they are not. We are not.”

To learn more about who is growing your food, you are encouraged to visit notourfarm.org and read the stories of farmworkers laboring across the United States and Canada.

Not Our Farm is a nonprofit farmworker visibility and support project founded by the article’s author.

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Confluence

LIFE AND DEATH AT WATER'S EDGE

By Christie Green

Illustration by Tracy Seidman.

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“H

ow many acres do you have here, you and your mom?” I ask Jed C. Seidman.

It’s late one Sunday afternoon in May 2020, and we’ve just stepped out of our pickups to get a visual on the immediate property boundaries of the Seidmans’ ranch. The plains southeast of Wagon Mound, New Mexico, break into deep canyons, ponderosa pines, and the slim ribbon of Vermejo Creek. This is the Canadian River watershed, where the water runs red, stained by the earth. The river’s 906 miles connect Colorado, New Mexico, Texas, and Oklahoma. Even though the Canadian is dammed five times before it reaches its confluence with the Arkansas River, it meanders from mountain summits to vegas to canyons, hydrating seed and soil as well as scaled, winged, furred, hoofed, and human beings. Water doesn't speak the language of political boundaries, doesn't care about the laws around human ownership or demand. Water curves its own course, trickles its own tongue, and recedes into deep depths when overdrawn.

We stand near the pond at the Canyon House, where six narrow drainages, including Ciruela and Vermejo Creeks, converge.

Jed shakes his head and tells me, “That's the wrong question to ask. You don't put it in number of acres, but number of head. The question should be, ‘How many head of cattle do you run here?’”

In 1878, American geologist and explorer John Wesley Powell identified the 100th meridian west, the longitudinal line that runs straight up the Great Plains along the Texas panhandle’s eastern edge, through Oklahoma, Nebraska, South Dakota, North Dakota, and the Canadian province of Manitoba, dividing the West from the East, dry from wet. In his late nineteenth-century Report on the Lands of the Arid Region of the United States, Powell advised against dryland agriculture and development in the arid lands west of the 100th meridian, emphasizing the importance of careful irrigation plans in a region subject to frequent droughts.

Powell’s assessment was informed by his own observations during extensive travel along rivers including the Colorado, Green, and San Juan, coupled with precipitation and climate data. His extensive surveys and mapping of the West contributed to the

“T

formation of the United States Geological Survey (USGS), and he served as its second director. He was also instrumental in conceiving of and establishing the US Bureau of Reclamation, which oversees water resource management.

But Powell’s cautious approach was ultimately rejected. Where he outlined land management plans based on watersheds and local community oversight, the government was more interested in identifying irrigation, cultivation, and development opportunities that would be driven by private interests and dollars. In a 1912 article on agricultural development in the Quarterly Journal of Economics, J. L. Coulter, then head of the US Census of Agriculture, projected, “Land now thought unavailable for agriculture will soon be found to be available or will be made so. Water will be drained from the land where there is too much and carried to the land where there is not enough.”

Powell resigned as the USGS director in 1894. From then into the Progressive Era of the twentieth century, rivers were deemed most attractive, in historian John Seelye’s words, “when they yielded to humanity’s needs.” Water became a commodity moved at will by power on paper to support agriculture, a booming mining industry, and urbanization.

I hear Jed's pickup jiggle across the cattle guard as he leaves, and watch the red of the truck meander a slow path through straw-colored slopes. The herd of about twenty-five elk that has emerged from the piñon-juniper edge watches him, ears piqued, eyes alert. The five mature gobblers I watched through my hunting binoculars a few minutes earlier have already moseyed up the canyon. I imagine them making their way to the small stand of ponderosas on the adjacent ridge.

The elk graze, their muzzles like vacuum cleaners at Earth's grassy floor. Three dainty does tiptoe near the elk, their mule-like ears twitching, rotating to shifting sounds. I yank off my jeans and white linen shirt, pull a single layer of camo over my legs, torso, and neck. I twist my hair up into the camo cap, pull the face mask over my cheeks, finding the eye and nose holes so I can see and smell.

Through intimate proximity and inquiry, we may realize our place within nature, find ourselves not as distant consumers but students. We can learn about balance and reciprocity from the ways of water, wildlife, and habitat—but will we?

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With one shell in the chamber and three in the magazine, safety on, and the box call in my pocket, I slither my way around the shady spring-fed pond at the foot of the Canyon House, upslope from where the turkeys have congregated. So far, they haven't moved, haven't spooked at Jed's vehicle driving away or my commotion of getting dressed.

Putt, putt, putt . . . I hear quick vocal pulses from the hens as they pluck bright green grass and watercress between their beaks, chattering and relaxed. I see three jakes, their stiff, short beards protruding from their feathered breasts. The difference between them and the mature gobblers is evident: the red, white, and blue of the gobblers’ bulging crowns, snoods, dewlaps, and caruncles are visible at a glance, whereas the jakes’ heads are smaller, grey, less distinguished.

I’m about thirty feet away, my back held straight by a massive cottonwood trunk, its craggy bark snagging the thin merino wool of my top. While I listen to the gals, I watch the jakes, itching to take aim before sundown. The three juvenile males take a curious detour around the fence line and, with a raucous flutter, launch themselves into the cottonwood. They perch and preen themselves on three lateral branches about twenty feet above me.

As darkness settles, I lower the shotgun. The turkeys’ scaled claws scratch the limbs overhead, shadows of fluffed bodies looming above me. An occasional tail ruffles as stars emerge.

Suddenly the ground rumbles beneath me. About five horses thunder so close I wonder if they’ll run me over. But, at about ten feet, they stop, snort, swish their long, untamed tails, and stare, nostrils raised high. We hold each other’s gaze, motionless. They rush off, whinnying with abrupt intensity. With the turkeys tucked in for the night, I stand, stretch, and make my way back to the pickup.

“My dad and aunt wanted to buy land. They had the idea of owning and running a working ranch,” Jed’s mother, Tracy Seidman, says, beginning the unlikely story of how she came to the ranch at Wagon Mound. “It was 1974 and my son was a few months old. My aunt saw that I wasn’t doing so well and asked if I’d go to New Mexico and find some land.”

Nearly a year has passed since my turkey hunt on her land, and Tracy has joined me for a socially distanced lunch at my home along the Santa Fe River. From the moment we meet, I’m struck by her small size and her hands. Squarish and thick, they show the wear of work. I imagine the reins she’s held, saddles she’s hoisted, bales she’s bucked. Soon I will learn that her hands are also those of an illustrator, a watercolorist, and a pine needle basket weaver. She is an unlikely combination of mother, rancher, artist—and storyteller.

“When I got to New Mexico, I put an ad in the Albuquerque Journal, ‘Looking for land.’ I got three hundred responses and put

thirty thousand miles on my aunt’s car looking at ranches. After sifting through them all, I chose two, one in Abiquiu and the one at Wagon Mound.”

She made the selection and facilitated the purchase for her father and aunt, then fully intended to return back east, where she’d worked as a professional illustrator. When her aunt fell ill and couldn’t make the trip, she asked Tracy if she could stay in New Mexico and run the ranch.

Tracy knew how to ride a horse—English style—but knew nothing of the cattle business.

She said yes anyway.

An unlikely introduction from a mutual friend landed me here, hunting spring turkeys on this ranch. Was that luck or fate? I ponder this privilege as I lie in the back of my pickup, thick blankets and sleeping bags keeping me warm while the bloated moon presses into me. I toss and turn through the night. Just after sunset, I witnessed two young elk standing tall on their hind legs, pawing at each other in what looked like a playful sparring match. Now I picture them again, see them alternate their elevated paw prance with practical grazing.

I envision the turkeys and wonder if the moon illuminates their iridescent feathers. Could I see more than their silhouettes if I crept down beneath the cottonwood again? Would they be making middle-of-the-night sounds that I’ve never heard? I want to know the meaning of turkey tongue, the messages of elk tracks pressed into wet mud. Which way do they go and why? My words and ways of making meaning seem so dull, flat, one dimensional.

Isn’t there something more than the rationale of the human mind?

The bulging brightness of the moon seems to grow weightier the longer I lie wide eyed beneath her. I finally surrender. I stop trying to sleep and decide to absorb the starry screen above, try to make myself nocturnal, too.

A west wind tousles my hair and rattles the nylon lawn chair. The elk, turkeys, deer, cottonwoods, and creek cast their dreams to the moonlight.

“We’re about fifty to sixty years behind in understanding what our underground water resources are,” Kate Zeigler, owner and senior geologist at Zeigler Geologic Consulting, tells me by phone.

Ziegler consults with rural communities and agricultural producers about groundwater resources and has worked with the Northeast Soil and Water Conservation District to monitor groundwater volume and health since 2010. In 2014, she started working with the Mora-Wagon Mound Soil and Water Conservation District, and met Tracy.

Left: Detail of Tracy Seidman's hands. Photo by Christie Green.

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“These people know their land better than I ever will. They’ve lived here their whole lives. I’m trying to provide the scientific data that tells the story of what’s happening down deep, why wells aren’t pumping as much or are drying up. We’re trying to adapt to changing weather patterns and the fact that aquifers aren’t recharging like they used to,” Zeigler explains. “Groundwater is invisible so you can’t see when the tank is low. But we can at least measure the bottom of the well and the rate of decline so folks know how much time they have.”

She says that among the seven counties and five hundred wells her firm is monitoring in New Mexico, 85 percent are not recharging within a human lifetime.

The moon sets. I rise, sit with the morning silence, and sip my creamy Earl Grey, itching to get going. I’m up a good two hours before daylight, well before the turkeys will take flight. Maybe I’ll head down to the spring early and get set up, listen for turkey talk at daybreak, and be in the best position to take aim once they’re on the ground.

I drive down the meandering dirt road, then follow the creek in. No elk. No deer. No horses. I set up against the base of a small cottonwood north of the main roost and swing the 20-gauge around in a 180-degree swath, making sure I have as many shooting lanes as possible. The spring illuminates dawn light in a dappled, watery mirage.

Just when there’s enough sunlight to make out silhouettes, another rumbling quakes beneath me. The little herd of horses rushes toward me. I strain my eyes, noticing something different. There is a new shape now, a slight, wobbly-legged foal with a sprightly swishing tail.

A mare gave birth during the night. The little one holds my stare as the sun rises and the turkeys descend.

“There were people from all sides of the table at those meetings,” Tracy tells me, speaking of the numerous advisory and leadership roles she stepped into once she’d adjusted to her new life, including thirteen years on the Interstate Stream Commission and six years on the board of trustees of the Valles Caldera National Preserve. She also chaired a planning committee for New Mexico Water Dialogue. In that committee, she says, “There were twelve of us from all walks of life—ranchers, farmers, people from the pueblos and folks from the city—we had to sit in the room together until we got a plan figured out.

We just did what it took, and, after all was said and done, we developed a water plan and became friends, too!”

In an instant, all hens and jakes scatter, heading down the valley, across the fence, and toward the neighboring property.

They did not do what I expected and are all now far beyond shooting range. I reach for the box call and whip off a few hen yelps, trying to lure the jakes back. One stops, turns, listens, and gobbles. I watch him putter around, pecking at the ground and looking for the hen. I call once more, wait for him to turn his head, and then lower myself to the ground and crawl closer.

He gobbles again, fluffing his wings and fanning his tail.

There’s a pile of slash wood in the middle of the field that I crawl behind, about fifty yards from him. On my knees, I pull another call and watch him do something unlikely: he bends down and pushes himself beneath the lowest strand of barbed wire, coming closer to find the mystery hen that keeps calling.

Once he comes within the thirty-yard range, I rise to my knees, swing the shotgun toward him, and fire.

Although wildlife impact the habitat and vegetation on the ranch, especially as they migrate and congregate along the creek and springs when surface water elsewhere dries up, cattle are the primary animal Tracy manages. When I ask about the number of acres required to support each steer or cow, she says, “What you’re asking about is carrying capacity. In other words, what can the land support? That’s a moving target depending on the year.” Tracy sips her black coffee, takes a bite of warm buckwheat cake and goes on, “In a few good years, we ran five hundred mother cows, averaging eleven hundred pounds each, year-round. When I average what ten different people tell me my carrying capacity should be, I come up with twenty-three acres per animal.”

As she rattles off numbers of cattle, memories of wetter or drier years and when she had to send the cattle to the shipping yard six weeks early in the late summer of 2020, I’m struck by her understanding of relationships. I hear someone who’s witnessed extreme unpredictability in weather and an influx of annual weed species, and who’s a keen observer of one of the most important elements in the ranch system—grass.

“People think that ranchers raise cattle, but that’s not really true. What we raise is grass. The cattle are just a tool to harvest the crop. Taking care of the land and paying attention to the health of the ecosystem is the first and essential priority.”

A sigh and silence follow. Then Tracy perks up and says, “If we get late summer / early fall rains, followed by a few weeks of

Left: Christie Green's turkey pelt. Photo by Christie Green.

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warm-enough weather, the warm-season grasses head out. Nothing is more lovely than pasture full of mature grama grass. Looks like a field full of false eyelashes.”

“How are folks adapting to less water and more unpredictable weather?” I ask Zeigler.

“Well, they’re now shutting wells off after the cattle have been shipped away, rather than running them year-round. They’ve also experimented with less water-intensive crops like milo or feed-grade corn. It all depends on the fluctuation of crop prices.

They’ve got to plant what they need to make enough money for their families.”

Zeigler continues, “In addition to managing water on the ground, there’s policy and different stakeholders. There’s so much distrust among groups and some talking down to others thinking they—the politicians or the scientists—know better. But really, all of us need to come to the table. We try to get the data into the landowners’ hands so that they can at least be part of the conversation.”

I press further about how much time there is left, but Zeigler doesn’t give a definitive answer. I know the question is loaded, and that each well, aquifer, and ranch is different.

“These people are family to us now,” she says. “We get upset when things happen out there. I tell them ‘We will be with you to the bitter end, until the last drop. We’re with you.’”

After the turkey has been hit and tumbles, his right wing arcs skyward and his feet pedal slowly as if trying to find stable ground again. I go to him, put the shotgun down and place the weight of my body on his. His breathing lifts my torso slightly; he blinks and breathes one last time. His final flutter ripples through me as I, too, exhale.

In Powell’s assessment of pasture lands west of the 100th meridian, he noted the relationship among water, grass, and grazers: “Though living water is not abundant, . . . isolated springs and brooks will in many cases furnish the water necessary for the herds that feed on the grasses. When springs are not found wells may be sometimes dug, and where both springs and wells fail reservoirs may be constructed. Wherever grass grows water may be found or saved from the rains in sufficient quantities for all the herds that can live on the pasturage.”

Powell was unaware that aquifers would be tapped for irrigation, but he knew that drought would be a recurring presence in these arid lands. According to the National Integrated Drought

Information System, 54 percent of New Mexico is currently in “Exceptional Drought”—the most dire category—and 80 percent of the state is in “Extreme Drought.” Impacts of these extremes include the closure of public lands, extreme fire danger and fire restrictions, dry acequias and subsequent agricultural irrigation with well water, high livestock feed costs and low prices, low crop yields, and wildlife encroachment on developed areas. The aquifers, which are just beginning to be understood and measured, are not replenishing within human lifetimes.

Are we now in the position of accepting the inevitable, or is there hope for survival and even replenishment with new water conservation practices? Through intimate proximity and inquiry, we may realize our place within nature, find ourselves not as distant consumers but students. We can learn about balance and reciprocity from the ways of water, wildlife, and habitat—but will we?

When Tracy considers my question about what she’s learned and how she adapts, she offers a humble response. “Pay attention. Be diligent. Don’t graze the same pasture the same way every year. Leave some forage behind. Leftover grass is the best insurance policy against drought, changes in the market, and variations in the weather. Listen to different opinions and ideas.

But trust your gut.”

I’m thankful for the two-hour drive from the ranch at Wagon Mound to Santa Fe. I don’t want to let go of the elk, deer, newborn foal, or the moon. I want to take what I’ve learned from the spring with me: there is value in slowing down, meandering, and recharging down deep.

What of them inside me will slip away as the miles click closer to town? What will the cottonwoods hear tonight? Who will sip the creek?

The seat next to me holds an unlikely passenger. The jake rests, stiffening with each hour past death. His claws curl, cold. No branch to grip now. I get to see him up close, his feathers with iridescent shine and fine fringe.

Once home, I will lay him on the cutting counter to skin and butcher. I will stretch his pelt wide, fanning his wings and tail, and salt the underside, then pin him to the board where he’ll dry over the coming year.

The organs I tugged from his core rest atop the smooth boulder west of the Canyon House. Which scavenging birds and mammals will become turkey tonight? What of him will they taste and carry inside their own bodies? Will the Vermejo and Ciruela linger aboveground long enough to quench future thirsts?

From left, clockwise: Tracy's hands; close-up of turkey pelt; horses at Wagon Mound. Photos by Christie Green.

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E A T. D R I N K . T H I N K .

How we inhabit this planet and envision its future is more critical

—consumers who have the power to reshape the world we live in. Every

now than at any time in our history. This past year has certainly taught

farmer, rancher, entrepreneur and organization we champion is better off

us that—it has exposed our vulnerabilities, our frail insignificance in the

because of you. You read, learn, take action and vote with your forks. It will

scheme of things. Yet during this turbulent and challenging time we have

be you who ultimately tilts the scale toward a more sustainable future, a

also found hope.

more sustainable food system.

On the following pages, we bring you the first in a series of thought lead-

Thank you for joining us as we collectively set our sights on creating a

ership stories that span topics on sustainability, hunger, restaurant revital-

future that is nothing less than extraordinary. One that binds the ecosystems

ization and regenerative agriculture. These are the values that Edible Com-

of our lives to Mother Nature without a disconnect between what is on our

munities, as an organization, has been devoted to for the past two decades.

plates and where it comes from—where all of the seemingly smaller choices

Our work lends itself to the singular notion that excellent storytelling has

we make today add up to massive, beautiful and everlasting positive change.

the power to change lives; and that by exploring and elevating important conversations like these, we can create massive change.

Tracey Ryder

We also know that change is impossible without the support of our readers

Marshall Johnson, Vice President of Conservation Ranching for Audubon standing in a field of prairie grass.

Photo courtesy of Audubon

Words Bill and Katie Delaney Photos Jesse Brantman

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edible Communities |

S IG N AT U RE

S E C T ION

Co-Founder, Edible Communities

T H E BI R DS & T H E BE E F WO R DS

BY

Joy Manning

+

P HOTOS

BY

Candice Vivien

You’ve seen the headlines: Beef is destroying the planet.

now means adding 1 million acres of land to the 2.5 million

You’ve heard all about the greenhouse gases and pollution a

acres that have already been certified as bird-friendly. “It means

typical beef operation produces. But the idea that beef is an en-

a lot to partner with an organization that has built its brand in

vironmental disaster isn’t quite that simple. Those dire warnings

alignment with our core values,” says Johnson.

are based on one kind of beef: The conventional, factory-farmed

Darrell Wood, founding Panorama rancher, was the first in

kind. And it is, by far, the most commonly consumed beef in

the network to get certified. “I volunteered. I wanted to see how

North America. In fact, 97% of the beef in the US food supply

it went and what the level of difficulty would be for ranchers,”

is grain-fed, feedlot beef.

he says. And he discovered the benefits greatly outweighed any

But there’s another way to produce beef, a way that actu-

extra effort. In large part, the certification is an acknowledge-

ally enriches the environment. And it’s happening across at

ment of what Panorama ranches, all of which were already or-

least 3.5 million acres of American grassland. Kay Cornelius,

ganic, have been doing for years.

a fourth-generation rancher and new general manager at Pan-

As part of the program, each ranch gets an annual visit from

orama Meats, intends to add another million acres to that total

a rangeland biologist who takes soil samples, measures the veg-

by 2030 through a groundbreaking new partnership with an

etation, and assesses how the ranch affects bird life. Then Audu-

unlikely ally: The National Audubon Society.

bon creates a habitat management plan for the rancher with suggestions for improvements. “The ranches enrolled are going

A NEW SE A L O F A P P R OVA L “All of our data proves that grassland birds are the most im-

to become even more bird friendly, but they were already doing great things,” says Johnson.

periled group of bird species in America. Grassland birds have lost 53% of their population since 1970, and 95% of all grass-

FARMERS F IRST

land birds live on cattle ranches,” says Marshall Johnson, vice-

Cornelius isn’t new to dramatically growing a network of

president of Audubon’s conservation ranching initiative. The

environmentally friendly farmers. Before taking the helm of

nonprofit’s “Grazed on Audubon Certified Bird-friendly Land”

Panorama Meats as general manager last September, she dou-

seal was established to recognize ranches that are managed in a

bled sales in her role as vice president for the biggest and best-

way that protects those birds. Saving these birds is a vital part of

known name in humanely raised meats, Niman Ranch. “I spent

maintaining biodiversity. Like bees, birds are important pollina-

12 years there working for farmers, and in my new job I’m still

tors, and they help maintain the delicate balance of a grassland

helping farmers earn a living,” she says.

ecosystem.

Finding ways to grow and protect a rancher’s livelihood is a

Through Audubon’s new partnership with Panorama, every

high priority for Cornelius personally and central to Panorama

ranch in Panorama’s network will earn that Grazed on Audubon

Meats’ mission. “I grew up in a rural community during the farm

Certified Bird-friendly Land seal. “We began the project of in-

crisis years. My mom and dad really struggled,” she says. The

troducing this certification in 2013, and we enrolled our first

experience of watching her once-thriving farming community

ranch in 2017,” says Johnson. Joining forces with Panorama

dry up back then informs everything she does today. “At Niman

Visit ediblecommunities.com for more photos and podcasts

Ranch, we really celebrated the family farmer doing the right thing and we’re doing the same thing at Panorama.”

The simplest way to keep these family farms in business is to ensure they are able to get their product to market and to be paid a fair price. Being part of Panorama’s network helps them accomplish these goals, and the Audubon’s bird-friendly seal provides a major boost, a way to make these special packages of meat stand out from everything else in the butcher’s case for environmental conscious consumers.

4 Ways to Shop for Sustainable Meat Not every supermarket is stocked with grass-fed, grass-finished and bird-friendly beef—yet. If you can’t find it at your store, there are still ways to purchase sustainable steaks, chops, and burgers wherever you are. Here are some tips to get you started.

1. SHOP ONLINE

Panorama has partnered with online retailer CrowdCow.com and you can find their beef as well as meat from other high-quality sustainable ranchers there.

2. BUY A COW SHARE

In many communities, smaller farmers and ranchers will sell onehalf, one-quarter, or one-eighth of a single animal to you. Check out EatWild.com to find one near you.

Red-winged blackbird

SAVI NG G R ASS L A N D The connection between beef, birds, grassland, and climate change isn’t immediately obvious. To understand how a properly managed ranch can actually help remove carbon from the atmosphere, you have to understand the long history of North America’s grassland.

Before they were hunted nearly to extinction in the

3 . S H O P AT YO U R FA R M E R S M A R K E T

Farmers markets are typically a great place to connect with the kind of farmers and ranchers who are passionate about sustainability and land stewardship.

late 19th century, wild bison grazed an area just the right amount to promote the growth of a complex and robust root system without killing the plants. Domestic cows, if left to their own devices, will eat the grass down to the bare earth, destroying the grassland. To make them more like their ancestors, ranchers must use rotational grazing, moving them from spot to spot to achieve that ideal level of grazing. “Cattle can mimic what historic bison used to do. That’s why we need them,” says Johnson.

Continued...

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S IG N AT U RE

S E C T ION

4. ASK QUESTIONS

When you’re shopping, ask your butcher where the beef comes from and how it was raised.

This educates you and lets them know there’s a demand for sustainable beef.

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Darrell Wood and Kay Cornelius of Panorama Organic

Without animals grazing, grassland becomes overwhelmed

these eco-minded ranchers can only protect the grassland, the

with weeds and invasive plant species. The soil quality is de-

birds, and the whole ecosystem it supports if they can earn a

graded, and animal life, birds and pollinators like bees lose their

living doing it.

habitat. Vernal pools dry up and disappear. Without well-man-

That’s where you come in.

aged grassland, some species can even become extinct. “There’s a vernal pool on my ranch that hosts an endangered species called

A MARK ET SOLUTION

fairy shrimp,” says Wood. “I have a stream that goes through

The way Kay Cornelius sees it, people are looking for three

my property that’s one of the major salmon spawning streams

things when they’re shopping for grass-fed beef. “They want

in California.”

to know it’s organic, they want to know that the animals were

And then there’s the matter of carbon. It’s true that cows emit

treated humanely, and they want to know about the environ-

carbon into the atmosphere, about 80 tons annually for a ranch

mental impact,” she says. “With the USDA organic seal and the

of 150 acres, according to the Texas Department of Agriculture.

Step 4 animal welfare standards, we had the first two covered.”

There’s also a certain amount of carbon emissions associated with

But until this new partnership with Audubon, Panorama had

the farm equipment (32 tons). But well-managed grassland, with

no iron-clad way to convey their commitment to the environ-

its deep root systems, lush vegetation, and rich soil, is actually

ment in a way easily understood by busy shoppers.

able to remove 500 tons of carbon from the atmosphere per year,

The Grazed on Audubon Certified Bird-friendly Land seal

giving it an overall positive effect on the environment rather than

requires third-party certification. Audubon is one of the most

a negative one. It should be noted that this only applies to cattle

trusted names in conservation. This means, in an era of spuri-

ranches with high standards for land management and environ-

ous label claims, the Audubon seal stands out as meaningful.

mental stewardship--not conventional factory farms.

According to Johnson, since the first ranches were enrolled in

Raising beef cattle on pasture this way does take longer:

the program in 2016, bird abundance has increased on those

Cows don’t fatten up as quickly without the grains provided by

grasslands by 36%. This is a good indication that other species,

feedlots, and they expend more energy grazing than on a feed-

especially bees and other pollinators necessary for the food sup-

lot. It also requires more space. As a result, a rancher practicing

ply, are flourishing as well.

this kind of regenerative agriculture cannot produce the same

“Consumers buy grass-fed beef to vote for a change in the envi-

volume of beef on the same acreage as a factory farm. Their beef

ronment. Paying a little more for beef is a nudge in the right direc-

must therefore be sold at a premium.

tion,” says Cornelius. It’s a small price to pay for doing your part to preserve America’s grassland and the birds that call it home. e

The preservation of this land is important to everyone, but

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ediblecommunities.com

A Wonderful Mix of Friendship and Philanthropy

Become a Member of The Circles The Circles is the premier membership of the Museum of New Mexico Foundation.

Join us and enjoy an exclusive calendar of events that is especially designed to enhance your appreciation of the art, history and culture of New Mexico and folk art traditions worldwide.

You’ll discover unparalleled camaraderie with an intimate group of fellow members.

For more information contact Cara O’Brien at 505.982.6366, ext. 118 or email cara@museumfoundation.org or visit museumfoundation.org/circles.

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cafecito MARKET PLACE LOCAL FINDS Your support for the advertisers listed here allows us to offer this magazine free of charge to readers.

BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER & BRUNCH (505) 310-0089 | 922 Shoofly St. SF, NM

Me Mesa ats

“From our Table Top to Yours.”

Your local wholesale or retail supplier for meat!

Grass-fed or grain-fed beef, Wagyu beef, lamb, goat, and pork. All locally-raised, fed, and USDA processed.

6368 South HWY 55, Mountainair mesameat.com · 575-799-0770

LAWN SPRINKLER EXPERTS

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Barrio Brinery

Repairs/Installations Landscape Remodeling Fruit Tree Pruning and Removal

i TA ex FE z New M

Santa Fe's source for fine fermented foods. Our lacto-fermented pickles, sauerkraut, and escabeche are hand-crafted in small batches.

1413-B West Alameda, Santa Fe www.barriobrinery.com ∙ 505-699-9812

505-319-5730

nmlawnsprinklerexperts.com Wholesale Specialty Cheese/Meats/Provisions 300+ Cheeses from around the World

Elevated Rooibos. Elevating Health.

Celebrating Café. Celebrating Community.

Espresso ground Rooibos. Antioxidant rich.

Coffee alternative. Caffeine-free or caffeinated.

Pure • Chai • Blossom • Earl finchescafe.com

Est. 1984

SANTA FE Linking the pleasure of good food with local community. www.b-cow.com · 505-473-7911

SLOWFOODSANTAFE.ORG

LOCAL PROVISIONS GUID E ALBUQUERQUE RESTAURANTS Campo at Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

218 Camino La Tierra, 505-983-2100, arroyovino.com

Cafecito

Rio Grande Valley cuisine rooted in seasonal organic ingredients from our own farm.

4803 Rio Grande NW, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com

Cafecito is a family-owned business blending cultures to bring you a delicious menu in a beautiful gathering space. 922 Shoofly, Santa Fe, 505-310-0089, cafecitosantafe.com

One of the nation's most accomplished artisan coffee roasters, Paul Gallegos.

1208 Rio Grande NW, 505-355-5563, cutbowcoffee.com

We serve modern American brunch with Eastern European influences. Open 7 days a week. 402 N Guadalupe, 505-982-9394, dolinasantafe.com

Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm. 8917 Fourth Street NW, 505-503-7124, farmandtablenm.com

Amazing food, unique coffees roasted on-site, and super fast high-speed internet.

314 S Guadalupe and 1600 Lena, 505-428-0996, iconikcoffee.com

Unmistakably comforting, uncompromisingly fresh, and undeniably delicious.

116 Amherst SE, 505-266-6374, mata-g.com

Locally sourced modern comfort food paired with craft beer, cider, and wine. 730 St. Michaels, 505-471-0440, loyalhoundpub.com

California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Farm-to-table dining and a casual patio. 10601 Montgomery NE, 505-294-9463, savoyabq.com

Where refined dining meets fun dining.

210 Don Gaspar in the Hotel St. Francis, 505-992-6354, marketsteersteakhouse.com

Cutbow Coffee

Dolina

Blades' Bistro

Chef and owner Kevin Bladergroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish.

221 Highway 165, Placitas, 505-771-0695, bladesbistro.com

Little Toad Creek Brewery & Distillery Taste Southwest New Mexico.

200 N Bullard St. Silver City, 575-956-6144 and 119 N Main St. Las Cruces, 575-556-9934, littletoadcreek.com

Farm & Table

Iconik Coffee Roasters

Michael’s Kitchen Restaurant and Bakery

Mata G Vegetarian Kitchen

Loyal Hound

Pajarito Brewpub & Grill

Savoy Bar & Grill

Market Steer Steakhouse

Seasons Rotisserie & Grill

Oak-fired grill, local and seasonal ingredients, and the best patio dining in Old Town.

2031 Mountain NW, 505-766-5100, seasonsabq.com

The Grove Cafe & Market

The Grove features a bustling café experience serving breakfast, brunch, and lunch.

600 Central SE, 505-248-9800, thegrovecafemarket.com

The Shop Breakfast & Lunch

Serving breakfast and lunch Wednesday through Sunday. 2933 Monte Vista NE, 505-433-2795, theshopabq.com

Trifecta Coffee Company

We roast coffee and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available.

413 Montaño NE, 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeeco.com

Vara Winery & Distillery

Spanish and American wines celebrating the origins of the American wine experience.

315 Alameda NE, Albuquerque, 505-898-6280, varawines.com

SANTA FE RESTAURANTS Anasazi Restaurant & Bar

Contemporary American cuisine inspired by locally sourced seasonal ingredients.

113 Washington, 505-988-3030, innoftheanasazi.com

Arable

Inspired by the bounty of New Mexico, and the small community of Eldorado, Arable was born. 7 Avenida Vista Grande, 505-303-3816, arablesantafe.com

Arroyo Vino

We serve progressive American fare inspired by our on-premise garden and local purveyors.

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Ohori’s Coffee Roasters

The original source for locally roasted coffee beans, gifts, and gathering. 505 Cerrillos and 1098 St. Francis, 505-982-9692, ohoriscoffee.com

Paper Dosa

Bringing fresh, authentic homestyle South Indian dishes to your table. 551 W Cordova, 505-930-5521, paper-dosa.com

Radish & Rye

Farm-inspired cuisine: simple yet innovative food and drinks sourced locally whenever possible. 505 Cerrillos, 505-930-5325, radishandrye.com

TerraCotta

Seasonally changing, globally inspired cuisine and an extensive, value-priced wine list.

304 Johnson, 505-989-1166, terracottawinebistro.com

The Compound Restaurant

Chef Mark Kiffin preserves a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution. 653 Canyon Road, 505-982-4353, compoundrestaurant.com

GREATER NEW MEXICO RESTAURANTS Bar Castañeda

Fresh takes on Fred Harvey classics.

524 Railroad Ave, Las Vegas, kinlvnm.com

Black Bird Saloon

Genuine food and drink, Wild West style.

28 Main St, Los Cerrillos, 505-438-1821, blackbirdsaloon.com

Black Mesa Winery

Black Mesa Winery is an award-winning winery using only New Mexican grapes.

1502 Highway 68, Velarde, 505-852-2820, blackmesawinery.com

Regionally inspired eats with a tongue-incheek menu in a casual space decorated with knickknacks. 304-C N Pueblo, Taos, 575-758-4178, michaelskitchen.com Open for lunch Tuesday–Sunday. Open for dinner every day. 30 craft beers on tap.

614 Trinity, Los Alamos, 505-662-8877, pajaritobrewpubandgrill.com

Parcht

/pärCHt/= the physical condition resulting from the need to drink wine, eat good food, and shop . . . in Taos. 103 E Plaza, 575-758-1994, parcht.com

Revel

Farm-to-table, elevated comfort food, in a fast-casual environment. 304 N Bullard, Silver City, 575-388-4920, eatdrinkrevel.com

The Gorge: Bar and Grill

Our menu is straightforward, yet eclectic, and chock-full of favorites made from scratch.

103 E Plaza, 575-758-8866, thegorgebarandgrill.com

The Skillet

American, Southwest, vegetarian friendly.

619 12th Street, Las Vegas, 505-563-0477, giant-skillet.com

FOOD ARTISANS / RETAILER Barrio Brinery

Bringing fine fermented foods to Santa Fe. We make our products by handcrafting small batches of flavorful goodness, using only the finest ingredients.1413-B W Alameda, Santa Fe, 505-699-9812, barriobrinery.com

Bountiful Cow Cheese Company Purveyors of fine cheese, meats, and provisions from around the world.

505-473-7911, B-cow.com

Del Valle Pecans

Fresh and sweet organic pecans. From our southern New Mexico orchards to your kitchen. Order online. 575-524-1867, delvallepecans.com

Eldora Chocolate

Eldora crafts chocolate using natural, organic, and fair-trade ingredients.

1909 Bellamah NW and 8114 Edith NE, Albuquerque, 505-433-4076, eldorachocolate.com

Finches

Espresso-ground rooibos. Antioxidant-rich.

Coffee alternative. Caffeine-free or caffeinated. finchescafe.com

Heidi's Raspberry Farm

Sumptuous, organic raspberry jams available throughout New Mexico and online!

600 Andrews, Corrales, 505-898-1784, heidisraspberryfarm.com

W INE B IS T R O

La Montañita Co-op

La Montañita Co-op is New Mexico's largest community-owned natural and organic food market. Locations in Albuquerque, Gallup, and Santa Fe, lamontanita.coop

Mesa Meats Processing

Bringing ranchers and consumers together with local quality beef, pork, and lamb.

6368 South Hwy 55, Mountainair, 575-799-0770, mesameat.com

Skarsgard Farms

Delivering fresh, local, and organically grown produce and natural groceries to doorsteps across New Mexico. 505-681-4060, skarsgardfarms.com

Talin Market

88 Louisiana SE, Albuquerque, 505-268-0206, talinmarket.com

LODGING

Bishop's Lodge

Bishop's Lodge is a soulful retreat steeped in heritage. 1297 Bishops Lodge Rd, Santa Fe, aubergeresorts.com/bishopslodge

Heritage Hotels and Resorts

Hotels in Albuquerque, Santa Fe, Taos, and Las Cruces. hhandr.com

Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

4803 Rio Grande NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com

Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi

Sophisticated modern aesthetic celebrating the southwestern spirit. 113 Washington, Santa Fe, 505-988-3030

Sarabande B & B

Comfort, elegance, and simplicity.

5637 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-348-5593, sarabandebnb.com

The Parador

Our 200-year-old farmhouse, Santa Fe's oldest inn, is located in historic downtown Santa Fe. 220 West Manhattan, Santa Fe, 505-988-1177, elparadero.com

Welcome Back!

Dinner Thursday–Monday Happy Hour Wines $6 before 6pm 2 Outside Garden Patios 304 Johnson St, Santa Fe 505-989-1166 terracottawinebistro.com Payne’s Nursery

Payne's North, 304 Camino Alire, 505-9888011; Payne's South, 715 St Michael's, 505-988-9626; PAYNE'S ORGANIC Soil Yard, 6037 Agua Fria, 505-424-0336, paynes.com

TRIFECTA COFFEE COMPANY

ORGANIZATIONS & EDUCATION Museum of New Mexico Foundation

Philanthropic support for our state's cultural heritage. museumfoundation.org

Slow Food Santa Fe

Slow Food is about enjoying food and the community it creates. Intrigued? Learn more at slowfoodsantafe.org.

RETAILERS

NURSERIES & SERVICES

Gallery Ethnica

Dedicated to growing and maintaining all manner of outdoor plants—veggies, fruit trees, flowers, shrubs, and perennials.

9515 Fourth Street NW, Albuquerque, 505-898-3562, alamedagreenhouseabq.com

Hacer Santa Fe

Alameda Greenhouse

Genuine Food & Drink Enchanting, Dusty...

Wild West Style 28 MAIN STREET LOS CERRILLOS 505.438.1821 Thursday - Sunday blackbirdsaloon.com

Live globally! 1301 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-557-6654, galleryethnica.com

413 Montano NE, Albuquerque 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeeco.com We roast coffee, and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods, sweet, and savory are made in house.

Thoughtfully sourced, carefully curated, natural fabric and fibers. 311 Montezuma, Santa Fe, hacersantafe.com

deerBrooke

Kitchenality

Osuna Nursery

Next Best Thing to Being There

Irrigation and backflow prevention specialists. Repairs, installations, and consulting.

505-319-5730, nmlawnsprinklerexperts.com

Irresistible and gently used gourmet cooking and entertaining ware. 1222 Siler, Santa Fe, 505-471-7780, kitchenangels.org

A family-owned and -operated nursery, gardening center, and landscaping company. 501 Osuna NE, Albuquerque, 505-345-6644, osunanursery.com

An eclectic shop for handmade products.

1315 Mountain NW, Albuquerque, 505-433-3204, beingthereabq.com

Sarabande Home

We have a passion for finding the perfect gift. 4022 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-344-1253, sarabandehome.com

Creative Casual Cuisine 221 Highway 165, Placitas 505-771-0695, www.bladesbistro.com

Chef and owner Kevin Bladergroen brings together fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Award-winning wine list.

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LAST BITE

Chocolate Pecan Tart Serves 8 • Level: Easy Prep Time: 30 minutes; Inactive Time: 1–12 hours; Cook Time: 15 minutes; Total Time: 1 hour and 45 minutes Indulge in every bite of this tart without guilt. Made paleo style, this recipe is delicious without grains, dairy, or sugar. Experiment with the chocolate and try using some different artisan flavors from your favorite chocolatier.

Chocolate Filling 3 1/2 ounces dark chocolate (at least 75 percent cacao) 1 cup coconut cream 1 tablespoon maple syrup Fresh berries or cherries for garnish (optional) Crust 1 tablespoon ground chia seeds 3 tablespoons water 1 1/2 cups pecans 1 tablespoon coconut flour 1/8 teaspoon sea salt Crust Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-inch tart pan.

Mix ground chia seeds and water in a small bowl and allow to sit for 20 minutes.

Place pecans in a food processor and pulse until an even medium grind is achieved (watching carefully so as not to overgrind and end up with nut butter). Pulse in chia mixture, coconut flour, and salt until mixture forms a ball. Press crust onto the bottom and up the sides of the tart pan.

Bake for 15 minutes and allow to cool to room temperature.

Filling Prepare while crust is cooling. Chop dark chocolate into small bits and put into a small bowl. In a pan, heat coconut cream on low until it comes to a boil. Pour over the chocolate and stir until melted. Stir in maple syrup.

Assembly Fill crust with the chocolate filling. Place in freezer for 1 hour, until firm, or leave in the refrigerator overnight to set.

Serve topped with favorite fresh berries.

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EXPERIENCE Oaxaca

Edible Travels–Oaxaca! | January 26–February 3, 2022

Experience Oaxaca and all its flavor while traveling with Edible New Mexico.

We will come together around the tables of Oaxaca to share meals and

stories, discover new culinary traditions, and awaken our taste buds. Edible New Mexico patrons will appreciate special-topic visits with organic farms

and community members involved with Oaxacan sustainability efforts.

*Open Heart Tours will refund all fees paid, including the non-refundable deposit, should the US State Department issue a travel ban for Oaxaca.

OPENHEARTTOURS.COM

DINE-IN SERVICE DINNER TO GO HEAT-AT-HOME SUNDAY DINNER EXCEPTIONAL WINE SHOP

2 1 8 CAMINO LA 5 0 5 .9 8 3 . 2 1 0 0

T I E R R A , S A N TA F E | @ A R R OYOV I N O

A R R OYOV I N O.C O M