Early Summer 2022: The Good Life by edible New Mexico

edible NEW MEXICO

THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

The Good Life

ISSUE 79 · EARLY SUMMER MAY / JUNE 2022

photos: doug merriam

FARM INSPIRED CUISINE

505 CERRILLOS, SANTA FE AT THE LUNA CENTER

radishandrye.com 505 .930.5325

Early Summer MAY / JUNE 2022 DEPARTMENTS 2

GRIST FOR THE MILL By Willy Carleton and Briana Olson

CONTRIBUTORS

LOCAL HEROES Hollow Spirits, Tres Hermanas, Downtown Growers' Market, and Bar Castañeda

BACK OF THE HOUSE Horno Restaurant by Lynn Cline

AT THE TABLE Willow + Blaine by Shahid Mustafa

FACES OF FOOD Happiness Sprouts in the South Valley by Ungelbah Dávila-Shivers

ESSAY To Love the World We Inhabit by Wendy Tremayne

38 TABLE-HOPPING

The James Beard Semifinalists by Stephanie Cameron

42 FORAGING

New Mexico Locust by Ellen Zachos

46 COOKING FRESH

ON THE COVER

edible NEW MEXICO

THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON

Stone Fruit by Stephanie Cameron

66 LOCAL SOURCE GUIDE AND EAT & DRINK LOCAL GUIDE 72 LAST BITE

Flyby Provisions

FEATURES 54 A SYMPHONY OF SPECIES Beyond Human Regeneration by Christie Green

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

The Good Life

ISSUE 79 · EARLY SUMMER MAY / JUNE 2022

Peaches. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

60 THE ART OF PRESERVATION AMID GREAT CHANGE Honoring the Legacy of Fabiola Cabeza de Baca by Emily Withnall

EDIBLENM.COM

GRIST FOR THE MILL

The Good Life “Life as I grew up and as I knew it as a home economist was rich but simple,” writes famed New Mexican author Fabiola Cabeza de Baca in the 1981 preface to her book The Good Life: New Mexico Traditions and Food, first published in 1949. “People drew their sustenance from the soil and from the spirit. Life was good, but not always easy.” Much has changed since Cabeza de Baca first documented northern New Mexican foodways. Life remains rich, but not always, if it ever was, simple. And as we endeavor on the uneasy path of living and thriving in a drying region, we look to those same wellsprings of strength—soil and spirit—to work toward that same basic goal: a life that is good. What constitutes the good life is subjective and, as these stories suggest, multifaceted. It is deeply personal, yet profoundly rooted in the collective. In these pages, writers investigate ways to reform our relationships with other animals, plants, and the planet itself; to celebrate a sense of community that comes from gathering once again, such as for a matanza; to appreciate all the little things, like making coffee each morning, that make up the day. However the good life is touched on here, a central element is food. Whether harvested from your garden, your neighbor’s yard, public land, or a nearby farm, whether prepared at home or at a local restaurant, whether eaten in community or in solitude, food is not an afterthought. It is fundamental to what is good about life in New Mexico.

PUBLISHERS

Bite Size Media, LLC Stephanie and Walt Cameron

EDITORS

Willy Carleton and Briana Olson

COPY EDITORS

Marie Landau and Margaret Marti

DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron

PHOTO EDITOR Stephanie Cameron

EVENT COORDINATOR Natalie Donnelly

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Cyndi Wood

VIDEO PRODUCER Walt Cameron

SALES AND MARKETING Kate Collins, Melinda Esquibel, and Gina Riccobono

PUBLISHING ASSISTANT Cristina Grumblatt

Mailing Address: 3301-R Coors Boulevard NW #152, Albuquerque, NM 87120 info@ediblenm.com ediblenm.com

Willy Carleton and Briana Olson, Editors

Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers

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EDIBLENM.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at INFO@EDIBLENM.COM Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible New Mexico six times a year. We distribute throughout New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. Subscribe online at ediblenm.com/subscribe

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

AN ICONIC SANTA FE L ANDMARK, RE-IMAGINED Savor elevated Southwestern cuisine at SkyFire, the signature restaurant of Bishop’s Lodge. Embark on a sunrise horseback ride overlooking the Sangre de Cristo Mountain Range. Engage in playful al fresco art classes with renowned local artists. Curate an intimate celebration with loved ones in our charming event garden.

EDIBLENM.COM aubergeresorts.com/bishopslodge | 1.888.741.0480 | bl.reservations@aubergeresorts.com 3

CONTRIBUTORS STEPHANIE CAMERON Stephanie Cameron was raised in Albuquerque and earned a degree in fine arts at the University of New Mexico. Cameron is the art director, head photographer, recipe tester, marketing guru, publisher, and owner of edible New Mexico and The Bite.

BRIANA OLSON Briana Olson is a writer and the co-editor of edible New Mexico and The Bite. She was the lead editor for the 2019 and 2021 editions of The New Farmer’s Almanac, and also works with Agrarian Trust, a nonprofit supporting land access for next generation farmers.

WILLY CARLETON Willy Carleton is the co-editor of edible New Mexico and The Bite. He is the author of Fruit, Fiber, and Fire: A History of Modern Agriculture in New Mexico, which explores the cultural and environmental history of apples, cotton, and chiles in our region.

WENDY TREMAYNE Wendy Tremayne is a conceptual artist, painter, writer, author of the award-winning book The Good Life Lab: Radical Experiments in Hands-On Living, and founder of the worldwide textilerepurposing model Swap-O-Rama-Rama.

LYNN CLINE Lynn Cline is the award-winning author of The Maverick Cookbook: Iconic Recipes and Tales From New Mexico. She’s written for Bon Appétit, the New York Times, New Mexico Magazine, and many other publications. She also hosts Cline’s Corner, a weekly talk show on public radio’s KSFR 101.1 FM. UNGELBAH DÁVILA-SHIVERS Ungelbah Dávila-Shivers lives in Valencia County with her husband, Larry, and daughter, Tachi’Bah. She owns Silver Moon Studio in Bosque Farms. CHRISTIE GREEN Christie Green is a mother, hunter, and writer, and the principal landscape architect at radicle. Raised in Alaska and on her grandfather’s farm in West Texas, she now resides in Santa Fe. With food and water as catalysts, Green seeks to pique sensual connection and uncomfortable curiosity. SHAHID MUSTAFA Shahid Mustafa owns and runs Taylor Hood Farms, practicing regenerative organic agriculture on more than three acres in El Paso, Texas, and offering a CSA with home delivery. Through his nonprofit DYGUP/ Sustain (DYGUP stands for Developing Youth from the Ground Up), he has worked with staff at Las Cruces High School to implement an environmental literacy curriculum and establish a one-acre plot where students receive credit for helping with all stages of vegetable production.

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

EMILY WITHNALL Emily Withnall was raised in Las Vegas, New Mexico, and currently serves as the editorial assistant at New Mexico Highlands University. Her freelance work has appeared in El Palacio, Al Jazeera, High Country News, Ms. Magazine, Gay Magazine, Tin House, Kenyon Review, and other publications, and can be read at emilywithnall.com. ELLEN ZACHOS Ellen Zachos lives in Santa Fe and is the author of eight books, including the recently released The Forager’s Pantry. She is the co-host of the Plantrama podcast (plantrama.com), and writes about wild foods at backyardforager.com. Zachos offers several online foraging courses at backyard-forager.thinkific.com.

Wine Director

Kristina Hayden Bustamante

lunch • dinner bar • patios

Come celebrate this “Highest Distinction” with us! CompoundRestaurant.com 505.982.4353 653 Canyon Road Santa Fe

photo: Gabriella Marks

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LOCAL HEROES An edible Local Hero is an exceptional individual, business, or organization making a positive impact on New Mexico's food systems. These honorees nurture our communities through food, service, and socially and environmentally sustainable business practices. Edible New Mexico readers nominate and vote for their favorite local chefs, growers, artisans, advocates, and other food professionals in two dozen categories. In each issue of edible, we feature interviews with a handful of the winners, allowing us to get better acquainted with them and the important work they do. Please join us in thanking these Local Heroes for being at the forefront of New Mexico's local food movement.

HOLLOW SPIRITS DISTILLERY BEVERAGE ARTISAN: SPIRITS

AN INTERVIEW WITH FRANK HOLLOWAY, FOUNDER Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Left: Sandia Margarita with Hollow Spirits Silver Agave. Middle: Greek-Jito with Hollow Spirits Rum. Right: Slice of Heaven with Hollow Spirits Vodka.

Frank Holloway was attracted to the service industry, where he has spent his entire career, because he loves bringing a smile to his patrons’ faces. A native New Mexican, Holloway was born in Belen.

I put together a business plan and brought it to my mother, Donna

How did Hollow Spirits come to be?

partner in Hollow Spirits. It was important to Donna and me to build

While I was an owner at a local brewery, a good childhood friend insisted that I open my own distillery. After months of consideration,

this distillery based on quality and education and, most importantly,

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

Salas, and asked her to be my first investor. She agreed to invest and took it a step further, offering to not only be an investor but a business

focused on family.

A NA SAZ I RESTAURANT BAR & LOUNGE

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ROSEWOOD INN OF THE ANASAZI

Left: Passion-Ista with Hollow Spirits Rum. Right: Frank Holloway, founder of Hollow Spirits.

Tell us about your spirits. In what ways do flavors of the New Mexico landscape make their way into them? The Hollow Spirits staff consists of mostly native New Mexicans, so everything we are and everything we do is New Mexican. Our cuisine, spirits, and cocktails all come with a New Mexican twist. What are the hardest parts about creating a top-notch whiskey in New Mexico? One obstacle that we face is the New Mexico climate. New Mexico is extremely dry, with greatly varying temperatures, which is like cooking our whiskey on high heat. We battle this by constantly tasting and rotating barrels around the distillery. We love this because the New Mexico air provides a flavor that cannot be re-created. How much are you able to source locally? We love our state and the quality of products it offers. Right now we are only sourcing New Mexico red corn from Tucumcari for our flagship bourbon, Red 96. We hope to source more local products as they become available.

and pickles in our drinks! With that in mind, our mixologists created the Kind of a Big Dill cocktail. This cocktail features the Hollow Spirits Pickle Vodka, lime juice, pineapple juice, and simple syrup, and is rimmed with chamoy and Tajín. This combination of sweet and salty pairs perfectly with a green chile cheeseburger. Describe a perfect day off. Sitting by a fire, watching my daughter play, and sipping on Hollow Spirits Red 96 bourbon. What is a local food issue that is important to you? Currently, there is an issue with consistent availability of many products. Luckily, we have a creative team that navigates this with menu changes that go with the flow of availability but never sacrifice quality. Is there anything else you’d like to share with edible readers? Hollow Spirits can’t wait to take New Mexican spirits to a national and global level!

What’s the perfect cocktail pairing with a green chile cheeseburger? Our extremely talented team of mixologists is coming up with fun new cocktails all the time. Our team loves green chile on our burgers 8

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

1324 First Street NW, Albuquerque, 505-433-2766, hollowspirits.com

VEGETARIAN KITCHEN Fine International Vegetarian and Vegan grab and go including ready to serve complete meals.

Find our Fresh and Delicious Food at: ALBUQUERQUE La Montañita Co-op–Nob Hill & Rio Grande Keller's Farm Fresh at Eubank and Candelaria Lowe’s Market on Lomas Moses Kountry Natural Foods Silver Street Market Triangle Market in Sandia Crest Lovelace Main Hospital Heart Hospital of New Mexico Sandia National Labs UPC at UNM UNM Hospital in La Cocina Cafeteria Presbyterian Rust Hospital - Rio Rancho Presbyterian Downtown Optimum Human & Southwest Women's Oncology

SANTA FE Fruit of the Earth La Montañita Co-op Kaunes Market Eldorado Supermart at the Agora

LOS ALAMOS Los Alamos Cooperative Market Los Alamos National Laboratory

ESPAÑOLA Center Market

TAOS Cid’s Market Sol Food Market - Arroyo Seco

GALLUP La Montañita Co-op

Dine on our patio in Nob Hill

116 Amherst Dr SE, Albuquerque, 505-266-6374

CATERING AVAILABLE

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LOCAL HEROES

TRES HERMANAS

FARM, CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN NEW MEXICO AN INTERVIEW WITH ELIANA LEVY

Eliana Levy, Refugee & Agriculture Partnership Program coordinator at Lutheran Family Services Rocky Mountains, and Becca Marshall, farm manager at Tres Hermanas. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

Eliana Levy is the Refugee & Agriculture Partnership Program coordinator at Lutheran Family Services Rocky Mountains, a role she began in 2021. Her background is in sustainable agriculture and environmental science.

We’re excited to welcome Becca Marshall as the new farm manager at Tres Hermanas. Becca has experience with food security and food justice, and also currently runs her own cut-flower and veggie farm in the South Valley of Albuquerque.

What is Tres Hermanas Farm, and how did it come to be?

Refugee resettlement often makes the news in the form of statistics and broad reports on need, which can be hard to connect with or understand on a personal level. Can you offer some more intimate insight on the experience of refugees here in New Mexico? What is something people may not know, whether about a specific group of people or the experience of wearing the label “refugee”?

The Refugee & Agriculture Partnership Program (RAPP) is funded by the federal Office of Refugee Resettlement, and Tres Hermanas Farm is the main site location for this program, in addition to multiple community gardens. RAPP introduces refugee families to agriculture in Albuquerque, initially through the community gardens. Then if individuals wish to grow more food beyond what their family needs and earn supplemental income, we transition them to working at Tres Hermanas Farm, where they receive a larger plot of land, as well as seeds, plant starts, tools, and training to grow and sell commercially. 10

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

Refugees arrive with a variety of backgrounds and experiences, including their resettlement process in this country, which makes it difficult to Gabe share Romero any overarching experiences. One aspect that the at Campo. Photo by Stephanie Cameron. public might not be aware of is the rapid pace at which families are

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Left: Residential planting at apartments where refugee families live, photo by Eliana Levy. Right: African eggplant starts, photo by Stephanie Cameron.

expected to become self-sufficient. Lutheran Family Services (LFS) has a case management team that works closely with refugee families for the first three months after their arrival to provide them with basic necessities. After three months, the services we provide shift toward more long-term, specified services, including employment and career development, microenterprise development, intensive case management, and RAPP, which clients are eligible to participate in for up to five years after their arrival. During LFS’s cultural orientation sessions, clients are informed that they will likely experience a sequence of highs and lows in their resettlement process, starting with an initial honeymoon phase where they feel a sense of opportunity and optimism, followed by a challenging period of culture shock, then progressing toward cultural adjustment and, eventually, adaptation. The daily interactions clients have within the community significantly shape their resettlement experience, and we cannot overstate the impact each person can have in welcoming refugees through even the smallest gestures of kindness, patience, and hospitality. What are some of the crops growing at Tres Hermanas that might not be found elsewhere in New Mexico? How are these foods prepared? One of our clients brought African nightshade seeds to the farm last season and the plants thrived! The leaves are used medicinally to treat ailments like indigestion, but can also be used to replace spinach in meals. Clients also grew African eggplants, which can be cooked or eaten raw when still green; once they reach their bright orange stage, they are no longer considered edible. In our residential raised beds, we are hoping to plant edible varieties of sumac bushes, since the berry is used to add flavor to Middle Eastern dishes. 12

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

Can you talk about the microenterprise program at Tres Hermanas? How has that program, and Tres Hermanas more generally, been impacted by the pandemic? This winter we offered cooking and nutrition classes through New Mexico State University’s (NMSU) Ideas for Cooking and Nutrition program and gardening classes taught by a graduate of NMSU’s Master Gardener Program, both of which were held virtually. In addition to keeping everyone safe, virtual classes alleviated two of the main barriers to program participation: transportation and childcare. On a similar note, we are expanding residential raised beds to make it safe and accessible for families to garden at home, and this month we are installing sixteen raised beds at four apartment complex courtyards where thirty refugee families live. As pandemic restrictions loosen, we will add in-person events at Tres Hermanas Farm and community gardens while continuing to offer virtual or hybrid classes. Is there anything else you’d like to share with edible readers? Tres Hermanas Farms is always in need of volunteers, mentors, and gardeners of all levels to help out with day-to-day tasks or specific event workshops. There are also opportunities to buy directly from farmers who are enrolled in our program. Feel free to reach out to Eliana.Levy@LFSRM.org to participate or for more information. Additionally, since we know edible readers love to support local businesses and try out new restaurants, one of our clients recently opened Al Alwan Cafe in Albuquerque, which serves Syrian cuisine. We encourage edible readers to support their new business venture! lfsrm.org/programs-and-services/refugees/albuquerque/ treshermanasfarm

IT'S TIME TO REFRESH YOUR SKINCARE ROUTINE. The warming temperatures in our arid climate means it's time to refresh your skincare routine with the Los Poblanos Rejuvenation Ritual set. This thoughtful collection of skincare products protects against high desert elements with the soothing properties of lavender. Beautifully packaged in a reusable box, the Rejuvenation Ritual is a perfect gift for Mother’s Day–or for any special someone (including yourself). The rejuvenation collection provides all the tools for a simple routine to invigorate and deeply hydrate, leaving skin luminous and glowing.

The set includes Los Poblanos Organic Lavender Skin Care Oil, Lavender Facial Toner, Gentle Face Brush and Body Brush. Dry brushing promotes circulation and gently exfoliates while our two favorite organic lavender products work together ﬂawlessly to tone and moisturize. A recommended daily ritual, crafted by our resident esthetician, is tucked inside. Visit the Farm Shop or shop online for an array of artisan products ranging from our lavender apothecary collection and Farm Foods to jewelry, ceramics, books and housewares. The Farm Shop is open daily 9-6.

lospoblanos.com

LOCAL HEROES

DOWNTOWN GROWERS' MARKET SUSTAINABILITY: PUBLIC HEALTH

AN INTERVIEW WITH DANIELLE SCHLOBOHM, ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, DOWNTOWNABQ MAINSTREET AND ARTS & CULTURAL DISTRICT

Jonelle Ewbank, Shawna Brown, Danielle Schlobohm, and Reba Thomas at Robinson Park. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

The Downtown Growers’ Market (DGM) was founded by a group of farmers organizing themselves to sell locally grown produce. The original location was in a lot at the old Caravan East. In 1996, the market moved to Robinson Park, with farmers lining up along Copper Avenue. Over the next twenty-six years, the market grew, adding management, music, artisans, and yoga, blossoming into the market we see today. The DGM is a program under DowntownABQ MainStreet and Arts & Cultural District, where Danielle Schlobohm is currently the associate director. She managed the DGM from 2019 to 2021. This is the twenty-sixth year of the Downtown Growers’ Market. What are some of the biggest lessons the market has learned over the years? Twenty-six years have brought lots of change, growth, and education. Organizing more than two hundred vendors and thirty markets a 14

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

year, which include local bands, nonprofit and education booths, and yoga / body movement classes, requires a lot of attention to detail, time management, and patience. All of this would not be possible without dedicated staff who love and believe in what the market is offering. One of our biggest lessons has been to invest in these individuals. The market operates on a slim budget that is funded through vendor fees, grants, and sponsors. We are always walking the balance of offering affordable market access for vendors, covering the costs of operations, and paying our staff what they are worth, equal to the work they do for our community. Public health has obviously been a major concern over the past two years, and pandemic-related safety precautions meant that certain initiatives, such as the market recycling and composting program, took a break. What is the status of such programs for 2022? How has the pandemic changed the market going forward? Ahmed Obo, founder and chef-owner of Jambo Cafe.

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experience a serene wellness getaway in the heart of the rio grande valley Discover a deeply relaxing environment and a profound sense of well-being at the Hacienda Spa at Los Poblanos. As summer heats up and our lavender fields bloom, our seasonal spa treatments are designed to hydrate and refresh. The surrounding landscape and serene ambiance evoke a sense of wellness that awakens the senses. Visit us at lospoblanos.com for treatment and reservation information.

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Describe a typical summer Saturday managing the market. When does the work day begin, and when does it end? What is the best part of the job? What’s the hardest part? Saturday mornings start at sunrise. Market staff arrive around 6 am to set up the info booth, clean the park, help with setup, and navigate any number of concerns that may arise. Market starts at 8 am and ends at noon, and sees between five hundred and two thousand visitors each hour. Staff are usually done by 1 pm. Running a large farmers market is equal parts love and problem solving. The best part for me is discovering what is new and in-season each week. I can’t wait for peaches and the smells of fresh roasted chile! Some of the biggest challenges include navigating the beloved location that is Robinson Park. It’s a logistical puzzle in the heart of an urban city, but we strive to make improvements every year! Do you have a favorite market moment? Yoga during the Downtown Growers' Market. Photo courtesy of DGM.

As the DGM enters 2022, we are excited to bring back all the pieces of the market that were active prior to the pandemic, including our recycling and composting program. Recycling and composting at a public park that only provides trash bins has many challenges: Sorting stations need to be provided so that items go to the appropriate places. Staff or volunteers need to maintain stations so contamination doesn’t occur. Packaging materials for vendors is a very confusing world to navigate. One item says “biodegradable,” one item says “compostable,” one says “recyclable.” There is little to no regulation on this labeling, so it takes a lot of research to be knowledgeable about these items. This year the DGM will be hiring a part-time staff member to help us rebuild our market waste program. The pandemic taught us the importance of focusing the economy on local suppliers and revealed how delicate our national food system is. Demand for food is more than what our local farmers can produce. As the market moves through this year and the years to come, we will continue to put effort into growing farmers, providing food access to everyone, and keeping money in the pockets of New Mexicans. In a wider sense of public health, how would you describe the health of the market at its quarter-century mark? How is the health of the market related to the greater health of downtown and our broader community of farmers, other vendors, and market-goers? The DGM is an essential piece to the well-being of all the entities mentioned above. During the pandemic, it was the only “event” being permitted and bringing folks to the hard-hit downtown core. Opening day is seen as a welcome beacon of healthy activity, commerce, and engagement for the downtown businesses and local community. Area arts organizations often coordinate their own art markets around the DGM so they can benefit from residents and visitors coming downtown to shop. Endless connections, conversations, opportunities, and growth have come directly from farmers, vendors, customers, and community members coming together each week. Many food vendors and farmers who have been highlighted by edible are or were DGM vendors. We are looking forward to continuing and improving this market with the same positive energy as we start our next quarter century. 16

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

Pets of the market! I love seeing all the animals that attend. We’ve seen everything from potbellied pigs, dwarf goats, and cats and rabbits in backpacks to bearded dragons, snakes, parrots on shoulders, and endless happy dogs. My other favorite moment is getting home and taking out all of the treasures I’ve found each week that are grown and created with care by folks that I respect and know personally. Everything tastes better that way! What does the vision for the market in 2030 look like? How do we get there? The market is bursting at the seams! We are taking serious steps to offer a year-round market. As that happens, we are also prioritizing the needs of our local farmers, small food producers, and artists. We are working to provide more vending opportunities, partnerships for commercial kitchen space, support systems to assist farmers in production growth, and other sales opportunities for local businesses. While doing all of this, we are keeping in mind the barriers and food insecurity that many people face and building out plans and partnerships to continue increasing access to local food. We get there with the continued support of our amazing community and collaborations with people who share our goals. Working together makes us stronger and will create the meaningful impacts our communities deserve. Is there anything else you’d like to share with edible readers? Come out to the market! Stay engaged in your community, continue to educate yourself, and get involved any way you can. Food is not only nourishment but also art, culture, life, and love. I also want to give a special thanks to DowntownABQ MainStreet director Lola Bird for founding the organization and navigating ten years of the DGM program; to market manager Shawna Brown, who is leading the market into new growth; and to staff members Jonelle Ewbank and Reba Thomas, who keep the nuts and bolts from getting too loose. And thanks to all the previous managers, as well as all the volunteers, interns, vendors, and community members who have assisted in the growth of Albuquerque’s longest-running farmers market. We couldn’t do it without you! downtowngrowers.org

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8917 4th St NW

Albuquerque, NM 87114

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LOCAL HEROES

BAR CASTAÑEDA RESTAURANT, GREATER NEW MEXICO

AN INTERVIEW WITH SEAN SINCLAIR, EXECUTIVE CHEF AND PROPRIETOR Photos by Stephanie Cameron

The Bar Castañeda team from left to right, bottom row up: Katey Sinclair, River Sinclair, Sean Sinclair, Andres Apodaca, Justin Woodlee, Monique Vigil, Sam Coca, Matt LaVigne, Jackson Revell, Chad Brown, Cisco Mendoza, Josh Loseke.

Sean Sinclair is the executive chef and proprietor at Bar Castañeda and Kin at Castañeda. Born and raised in Tijeras, New Mexico, he has great pride in the Land of Enchantment. Right out of high school, Sinclair moved to Portland, Oregon, to attend culinary school at Le Cordon Bleu. After several years working in some of the finest kitchens in PDX, Sinclair returned to New Mexico and took the helm at Albuquerque’s Farm & Table. Under his leadership, Farm & Table won many accolades, including being named a Local Hero for Best Restaurant in edible New Mexico, and was featured in publications including USA Today. He then moved to Washington, Virginia, to join The Inn at Little Washington, a three-star Michelin restaurant, as a sous-chef. He opened Bar Castañeda in 2019. Sinclair is also the owner and chef of Legal Tender Saloon & Eating House in Lamy, which opened in 2021. 18

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what (or who) have been your biggest influences? From a very young age, I recognized the importance of knowing where my food came from, so I moved to the Pacific Northwest to experience the deep-rooted farm-to-table culture of the Portland food scene. Then I made the move home and took the executive chef position at Farm & Table. From there, I took a sous-chef position at the world-famous Inn at Little Washington, where I worked under the pope of American cuisine himself, Patrick O’Connell. I am endlessly grateful for the opportunity Chef O’Connell gave me to work in his kitchen. The lessons I learned in that restaurant will be with me for the rest of my life. Chef O’Connell is genuinely one of the greatest chefs to have ever lived. I was able to cook for

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Left: Chicken liver pâté with pickled veggies, Sauternes jelly, and house-made lavash crackers. Right: Relleno with roasted poblano, quinoa, goat cheese, mushrooms, and walnut romesco.

him almost daily for over two years. You can’t get better experience than that! What makes a great restaurant? Consistency makes a great restaurant. That’s the thing we focus on most at both Bar Casteñeda and Legal Tender, whether it be consistently changing dishes based on seasonality or the consistency of making sure our Smash Burgers are exactly the same every time. Your menu is influenced by New Mexican cuisine, but, with nods to the South, the Northwest, Ireland, and beyond, it is far from strictly New Mexican. Have you been especially influenced by any particular regional or national cuisines? Is there a line you won’t cross when it comes to marrying different traditions? We just want to cook tasty food at Bar Castañeda and we put dishes on the menu based on one question: Is it delicious? Delicious isn’t something you have to think about. It is or it isn’t. We have no biases on where inspiration for the food comes from, which I think is the same for most chef-driven establishments. What goes into developing a new dish? How do you balance seasonality with satisfying customers who fall in love with a certain menu item and want it over and over again? 20

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We have a few things that never change, but for the most part we want to switch things up based on what’s available at the farmers market. Oftentimes, we start with a single ingredient we are really excited about and go from there. Sometimes it could be a protein like chicken from Lotus Farms in Tijeras that we feature as an entrée. Other times, it could be a product we get lots of, like fresh corn. When an ingredient is in season, you might see it in two, or even three, different dishes on the menu, and as soon as it’s gone, those dishes change. Every time something new shows up at market, I grab it and we work it into a dish. Have you had any kitchen encounters with the ghost at Castañeda Hotel ? Once I had some cold breath on my ear and a super eerie feeling in the kitchen at like 1 am. Guests say all the time they have had experiences. Why Las Vegas? Or Lamy, for that matter, right? I’m a born-and-raised New Mexican and I know people in this state like to road-trip, so destination properties really resonate with me. Beyond that, Las Vegas is a truly authentic part of New Mexico with incredible history and charm. 524 Railroad Ave, Las Vegas, 505-434-1005, kinlvnm.com

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BACK OF THE HOUSE

HORNO RESTAURANT CREATING COMMUNITY THROUGH FAMILY AND FOOD By Lynn Cline · Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Thai Red Curry and Peanut Glazed Pork Belly with sesame vegetable salad and pickled mushrooms.

If you find yourself conjuring up happy childhood memories of Mom’s home cooking with every bite of made-from-scratch fare at Horno Restaurant, you’re not alone. Although this Santa Fe restaurant opened just last summer, it has quickly won the hearts of diners near and far. From the house-made pasta to tender roasted chicken and mouth-watering meatballs with marinara and melted mozzarella, every dish is made with love. “It’s the best feeling when somebody eats your food and it invokes a fantastic food memory for them,” says veteran Santa Fe chef David Sellers, who co-owns Horno with his wife, Heather. “Whether it’s from their childhood, their mother’s cooking, or their Italian 22

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grandma who made the best meatballs in the world, it gives them joy. People tell me that all the time. They’ll say, ‘Oh my god, this reminds me of my grandma’s lasagna.’” The chef ’s famous burger—a two-time champion at the Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown—is also on the menu, alongside an eclectic offering of Southeast Asian and Italian dishes. But more than elevated gastropub fare draws diners to this cozy downtown restaurant: Horno has a rare and palpable sense of camaraderie and community that carries from the kitchen to each and every table. In part, the community energy comes from the longtime ties the Sellerses have forged with Santa Fe. The couple met at Santacafé, where Heather

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Heather and David Sellers.

worked as a server and David spent ten years as chef. Together, they have devoted years to nonprofits—Heather working with Capital High School students through Communities in Schools and David helping to launch and run Albuquerque’s Street Food Institute, a nonprofit culinary entrepreneurship program that employs food trucks as a learning tool. “During our nonprofit years, both Heather and I did a lot of service to the community,” David says. “For Heather, it was keeping kids on track and helping them to do well, and for me, it was helping adults get back on their feet through Street Food Institute’s culinary program. That has played into how we run the business. We do the same thing for our employees. They are part of our family, and we find out what their needs are and we help them. We try to create a communal family environment.” Horno’s employees, for instance, are paid fair wages, and any leftovers from the staff’s daily family meal are sent home with employees to share with their families. The communal family vibe extends beyond Horno’s doors and out into Marcy Street, a busy commercial neighborhood of shops, restaurants, and other local businesses. “The community on our street is awesome,” David says. “All the businesses, we’re all friends. We’ve created a bond with the whole block. It’s been a long time since I’ve felt like I’m that much a part of a community in Santa Fe.” Horno is a family-driven business in other ways too. Heather and David have two sons, and the older, seventeen-year-old Mateo, has played a pivotal role in the restaurant since before it even opened. “He helped me with renovations, tiling and cleaning,” David says. “Then he worked in the kitchen on prep and on the floor. He’s good. I had him working on the garde-manger station and now he buses occasionally. He already has a skill in cooking. He’s so proud of the restaurant and he’s invested in it because it’s a family business.” It’s fitting that Horno takes its name from the hive-shaped outdoor mud oven that the Spanish introduced to the region’s Pueblo communities in the sixteenth century. Fueled by wood, the horno has long brought families and communities together to cook bread, meat, 24

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corn, and other foods from scratch, using local ingredients. The same spirit drives Horno. “We make all our own bread, sauces, ricotta cheese, and pasta,” says David, whose culinary career started at an organic bakery in Plymouth, New Hampshire, some twenty years ago while he was working toward a BA in philosophy from Plymouth State University. There he learned to grind flour for bread and other baked goods. “I’m not as extreme as that now, but cooking locally, you have to be smart about how you do that, too,” he says. “I always try to have local foods on the menu wherever I can, and to use them as much as I can.” He sources produce from local farmers and serves only natural, antibiotic-free meat, free-range chicken, and fresh seafood. “I talk to seafood purveyors every day to find out what’s the best that they have,” he says. From the start, Heather and David envisioned Horno as a community restaurant serving “food for the people.” “We wanted to gear the restaurant toward locals and industry people and also people who don’t normally come downtown for dining,” David says. “We intentionally keep the check average low, and the beer and wine list is inexpensive. And it’s happened,” he adds, noting that his and his wife’s nonprofit connections have helped attract customers from farther afield than many downtown venues. “Also, it’s the kind of product you choose,” he notes about the restaurant’s popularity. “I don’t run things that are super expensive. The reason a lot of restaurants have become so expensive is that they’re still running lobster, rack of lamb, and filet mignon. I’ve chosen other center-of-the-plate items that aren’t as expensive but that I spend time and care on.” Horno has brought the good life to downtown Santa Fe, not just to diners but also to the family behind the restaurant. “It’s really a feeling of thankfulness that this restaurant was started, and it’s been embraced by the community,” says David. “Every night, I have to pinch myself. I’m like, ‘Oh my god, I have my own restaurant and it’s doing great.’ Of course, there’s no shortage of hard work to make this happen, but that is the good life. You’re putting this out from the deepest part of your heart and people are enjoying it.” 95 W Marcy, Santa Fe, 505-303-3469, hornorestaurant.com

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AT THE TABLE

WILLOW + BLAINE A LAS CRUCES FINE DINING BISTRO KEEPS THE COMMUNITY AT HEART By Shahid Mustafa · Photos by Douglas Merriam

Willow + Blaine garden-to-table bistro represents the intersectional cultural renaissance in the heart of the Mesquite Historic District of Las Cruces. That awakening is happening in what was the original El Camino Real, and subsequently became the town site of today’s Las Cruces. Branded after the middle names of its co-owners, Ariana Parsons and Tyrell Thackers, the restaurant opened in 2020, and specializes in multicourse meal experiences paired with exceptional wines and pre–Prohibition era cocktails.

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Willow + Blaine exists in a neighborhood that Parsons describes as a “marvelous hybrid where wonderful collaborations can happen.” She says that thirty of the original founding families are still in the neighborhood, and she wants to reinvigorate the spirit of this distinctive neighborhood. The inspiration for the restaurant was actually the building itself, a 1940s stone building that was originally a single-family home and highlights the architectural diversity of a community that still hosts some of the original adobe homes from the mid-1800s.

COCKTAIL & WINE BAR

CRAFT COCKTAILS, WINE BY THE GLASS, SMALL SHARE PLATES, & SUNDAY BRUNCH INSIDE SAWMILL MARKET MON-FRI 4PM-9PM, SAT & SUN 9AM-9PM 1909 BELLAMAH AVE. NW, ALBUQUERQUE | SAWMILLMARKET.COM EDIBLENM.COM

Left: Ariana Parsons and Tyrell Thackers. Right: Steak sandwich with kale chimichurri and roasted balsamic tomatoes.

“The building was kind of calling to us,” Parsons says, noting that she and Thackers would often walk by the site on their way to the adjacent Beck’s Roasting House & Creamery, which they’ve owned for nine years years. They’ve renovated the interior of the old stone building in the style of a French bistro, with a sophisticated and charming combination of texture and materials. Letting the building direct the vision, and assembling a team of talented local designers and carpenters, Parsons and Thackers have established an upscale, chic restaurant that brings something very unique to the Las Cruces fine dining landscape. Emphasizing local and really fresh ingredients, they grow a small amount of food on-site in raised cedar beds to enhance the farm-toplate experience and allow the opportunity for people to connect to food on another level. The plan for the garden is to plant as much as can be utilized, including an abundance of fresh herbs, squash, melons, figs, tomatoes, edible flowers, and heirloom peppers. Parsons likes “the idea of being able to grab strawberries from hanging baskets to add to mimosas.” They will incorporate pepper varieties developed at nearby New Mexico State University into their unique hot sauces, such as their balsamic pomegranate strawberry, which will be used in side dishes and in cocktails such as Bloody Marys. When I went to Willow + Blaine with my family on a Sunday morning for brunch, my partner enjoyed the Eggs Benedict and I decided on the Pesto Grilled Cheese, which comes with the option of adding prosciutto. Our three-year-old, Aliah, wanted Carrot Cake 28

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French Toast, which we all shared. We were more than pleased with our experience, and when we can find a sitter, my partner and I plan to go for a dinner date. Willow + Blaine’s wine bar lists solid selections from around the world, including an eclectic mix of European wines and wines from Chile, Argentina, New Zealand, and Australia. Parsons personally tasted at least a hundred wines to determine their list, which currently boasts seventy-five to eighty varieties (and they are working toward ninety). Already, Willow + Blaine has distinguished itself as the only restaurant in the area to consistently move a certain quality of wine, such as Opus One’s Overture. The idea of a fine dining wine and bistro establishment located in the heart of an area designated as a food desert may seem contradictory, but there is strategy behind what Parsons and Thackers are trying to do. Parsons says, “One of our goals is to have a local mercantile that creates a community that is more walkable; every neighborhood should have fresh, healthy food within walking distance.” Willow + Blaine’s popularity demonstrates the potential for success in historic and culturally diverse communities, a success that doesn’t require displacement and disruptive renewal programs. By creating spaces that could truly serve their neighbors, Parsons and Thackers continue to demonstrate their intention to be integral to their community. 118 N Mesquite St, Las Cruces, 575-405-9444, willowandblainelc.com

FACES OF FOOD

HAPPINESS SPROUTS IN THE SOUTH VALLEY

GROWING SUSTAINABLY WITH LOS JARDINES DE MOKTEZUMA Words and Photos by Ungelbah Dávila-Shivers

Fidel Gonzalez at Los Jardines de Moktezuma farm in Albuquerque's South Valley.

On a rare rainy day in Albuquerque, I sit with Fidel Gonzalez in his South Valley sunroom as he strings together a necklace of jade and amber. In the sweet, honey-thick accent of his first twenty years spent in Mexico City, he tells me how his son and his business were both born in this house, where to the west sits his first farm plot and to the east the Atrisco Riverside Drain flows alongside the Rio Grande. On May 15, San Ysidro feast day, Gonzalez, his Aztec dance group Círculo Solar Ollin Xopilli, and others will form a procession from Isleta Boulevard and Arenal Road to bless the acequia, signifying to 30

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farmers up and down the valley that the time has come to safely move their plant babies from the greenhouse to the earth. But on this day, we watch the clouds gather, inhale the intoxicating scent of petrichor, and sigh alongside the earth, taking in the feeling of rain that will nurture Gonzalez’s garlic field and humidify the air for the sprouts in the cold frame that wait for their chance to slip into the soil and begin their journey from farm to family table. Gonzalez, who began Los Jardines de Moktezuma fourteen years ago, seeks out folks throughout the valley who want to maintain their

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Fidel Gonzalez prepping starts for the new season.

water rights, preserve their land for agriculture, and take advantage of agricultural tax exemptions, but who may not have the ability to be full-time farmers themselves. In farming their land, Gonzalez is able to support himself and his family while producing high-quality local food and economic opportunities for the community. “Don Bustos, program director for American Friends Service Committee in New Mexico, taught people who didn’t have land the model of how to work with people in the neighborhood who did own land, and who needed to preserve their water rights,” says Gonzalez. “We live in the desert. Instead of watering grass, we can use that water to grow food, and that’s what I do.” Los Jardines de Moktezuma maintains five farm locations in the South Valley and sells the produce at local farmers markets and through La Cosecha, a community supported agriculture (CSA) project of Agri-Cultura Cooperative Network (ACN). ACN works with allied farms to sell weekly bags of fruit and veggies to CSA customers from June through October. Those who aren’t able to pay full price for the produce bags may qualify for subsidized assistance through SNAP/EBT, making nutritious food accessible to more people in the community. In 2021, approximately twenty thousand pounds of produce were distributed through La Cosecha. Los Jardines de Moktezuma was one of three farms that created ACN, which is now made up of five co-op member farms and thirty-two allied farms across the state. Gonzalez is currently the president of ACN’s board of directors and a board member for the Downtown Growers’ Market. ACN’s purpose is to provide access to nutritious food and promote economic development and environmental and community stewardship in communities throughout the Albuquerque South Valley. 32

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When Gonzalez decided to get his hands dirty, he knew nothing about farming. “In Mexico City, all we grow are buildings and children,” he says. At the time, he was a traveling musician wanting to put down more permanent roots and practice a more ceremonial life in tune with being Aztec. The USDA was offering up a grant through the American Friends Service Committee to train new farmers from the ground up—from planting to building to running their own business—in exchange for them to train the next generation. Instead of training people to be farmworkers, he says, they were teaching them how to be entrepreneurs. Gonzalez saw it as an opportunity to create a business in his backyard that would allow him to be independent, play music, and live a more traditional life. “I went back to my roots,” says Gonzalez. “When you go back to the roots of religion, arts, and community, it’s agriculture and music. The way I see agriculture now is the Indigenous way of ‘take care of the earth and it will take care of you.’” For Gonzalez, true sustainability goes beyond the organic practices he uses on his farms. He lives his life by the concept of “gross national happiness,” a term coined by the 4th King of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, who declared it was more important than gross national product. The idea is to cultivate a holistic approach toward sustainable development that gives equal importance to non-economic aspects of well-being, such as happiness, peace, and family. “When I was fourteen, I knew I wanted to be a musician,” says Gonzalez. “But by following my heart I ended up in agriculture. Music led me to agriculture and that led me to be independent, to grow my own food and stay sustainable.” And, he adds, when there is dirt under his nails, his music sounds better.

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ESSAY

TO LOVE THE WORLD WE INHABIT Words and Photos by Wendy Tremayne

Wendy Tremayne's morning coffee starts with roasting green beans in a Poppery II popcorn maker.

I heard someone who I think is smart say, “The one whose desire has not been met did not know how to desire.” In my 2013 book, The Good Life Lab: Radical Experiments in Hands-On Living, I described my experiences after pledging to make everything that I once bought: food, power, fuel, building materials, and domestic goods, using waste or natural materials. The type of skills I emphasized in the book range from welding to filtering biodiesel to making botanical remedies to mixing paper crete. A decade later, I’m past the stage in life in which I put forth enormous effort and make big sacrifices to prove my ideas and bring into existence philosophies I believe in. What I now have to share are contemplative skills that enable me to take in 34

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the bounty of my efforts, things like mustering desire, reflection, and the intentional turning of my interest toward (and not away from) the activities I must do. While constructing a decommodified life and making everything by hand, I noticed that we avoid the things that are the most valuable. Simply said, life is as interesting as our interest in it. Labor is a form of leisure, but it’s also more than that. Labor stimulates our creative mind; by making things, we naturally understand the world and the value of the things in it, which we may have previously taken for granted. This kind of appreciation allows us to value all that’s all around us, even the value of the things we didn’t make. The knowledge and skill we

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sounds of our environment, the sensations of temperature on our skin, and the wonder of encountering another human being are all magical gifts hidden in plain sight. If we consider that those who learn to savor life don’t devour it, we can see that this seemingly simple practice may be radically important for the world. I like to think of my own failure to be moved by the life around me as a “user error,” which rightly puts the burden of remembering to remember on me. Consider the everyday task, and potential ceremony, of making coffee. My morning coffee starts with roasting green beans in a Poppery II popcorn maker, grinding the beans, heating water to the perfect temperature (190 degrees), and carefully pouring it over the grinds to cause a CO2 bloom—evidence that I got all these steps right. But it doesn’t end here. With the warm, fragrant cup in my hand, I let nothing disturb the experience of savoring it: no screens, no multitasking, and no busying about. I fully enjoy the gift while taking time to experience the shade canopy in my yard, made by trees I planted years ago as saplings. I feel the air on my skin, take in the fragrance of the moment, and appreciate all. Another gem in my morning coffee ceremony is the knowledge that I resourced this joy for myself. When we know that we create our own happiness, we tap into a feeling that we can trust ourselves with ourselves, the best feeling of safety we can know, and something we all need to feel if we’re to be genuinely happy. We’d be really silly creatures if we didn’t transform our view of the things that we “must do” into things we “get to do,” especially when we consider that most of life is spent on domestic tasks. So why treat domesticity as something to rush through so we may get to something better? Our domestic tasks are the “something better,” if we choose to make them so. Joy in this world is often hidden in the everyday, even when you are weed whacking, making coffee, or repairing a burst pipe.

Heating water to the perfect temperature and carefully pouring it over the grinds to cause a CO2 bloom.

develop through labor are durable things that don’t rise and fall with financial markets or change with economies. Knowledge is stable and truly belongs to its holder—it is worth more than money. I’ve also become aware of just how forgetful we humans can be. Reflection, the taking in of all that’s good, is something we must train ourselves to do and then remember to implement in everyday life. The Sufis say that “only what we’ve burned into the soul of the world through gratitude lasts forever.” But human nature often works against us. Just think back to a moving song that made you cry when you first heard it. Do you remember how the emotional impact of the song lessened with each time you replayed it? Eventually the cry no longer comes. The magical feeling of being reached by the world (as opposed to just residing in it) is obscured by our habit of not seeing what is all around us. Look at the rising sun tomorrow, only this time know that you’re looking at a giant nuclear furnace that’s hurling through the cosmos at incredible speed, which rises daily and regulates the delicate temperature range that we live in—perfect for plants, humans, and all the creatures in this world. The wind, the 36

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There is a time in one’s life to prove out our ideas, sound a note, make effort and sacrifice to establish our credos in this world. And there is a time in which our task is to love the world we inhabit. Today I find myself extending my “tea ceremonies” to wherever they may be welcomed. I derive pleasure from cooking for others, teaching what I know, sharing, and bringing a sense of wonder to life that I hope will be contagious to those who are ready to embody it. We may each be able to make some change to this world, but it will still be a tumultuous world; if the world were perfect, the world wouldn’t be. Something that we can all do is nourish our own inner ecology so that we may have a kind of resilience, and when we’re blooming on the inside with appreciation, we can share it and increase our happiness by increasing the happiness of the characters who populate our days. Ten years after writing my book, I’m awfully busy repairing all the stuff that I built. Almost every day I fix a plumbing break, patch a stucco wall, repaint a deck, or work on the landscape surrounding me. I also host friends on what’s now a one-acre wonder world that I made. I do these things as lovingly as I can, and I am sure not to miss the gains: knowledge, independence, exercise, time spent outside feeling the magical forces of nature, and the intimacy of caring for others. I do my best to extract joy from every task, spend time taking in the pleasures of it, and then I look to share joy and inspiration with others. Once I do, my joy has a life in the world, and it’s a good life!

TABLE-HOPPING

THE JAMES BEARD

SEMIFINALISTS Words and Photos by Stephanie Cameron

The James Beard Awards are like the Academy Awards of the food industry. They recognize exceptional talent and achievement in the culinary arts, hospitality, media, and the broader food system. And although we know there is exceptional talent throughout the Land of Enchantment, it often doesn’t get recognized outside our borders. So when seven restaurants made the semifinalist list in 2022, we thought it was worth table-hopping to taste what makes them worth noting.

HOW THE AWARDS WORK The Restaurant and Chef Awards program issues a call for recommendations each October. Subcommittee members and judges research and submit recommendations for all categories. In addition, industry members and the public are invited to submit a recommendation for a chef or restaurant that exemplifies excellence in their craft and represents the vast diversity of cuisines, foodways, beverages, and styles that make up the culinary landscape of America. The entries are not official nominations, and there is no entry fee.

IHATOV BREAD AND COFFEE

Semifinalist Outstanding Bakers—Nobutoshi “Nobu” Mizushima and Yuko Kawashiwo What we are eating: Buttermilk Biscuit. These generous biscuits are a true star, not your traditional flaky biscuit, but soft and sweet. Find: 3400 Central SE, Albuquerque, ihatov.us

The Restaurant and Chef Awards voting body comprises members who can evaluate chefs and restaurants independently. Members include food and beverage writers, critics, editors, book authors, media producers, food studies scholars, and culinary instructors, along with former chefs, restaurateurs, and diners from other professional backgrounds with knowledge of the restaurant scene in their region. Once all the recommendations are in, subcommittee members—a mix of national and regional representatives, including scouts and tasting panelists and divided evenly among the award regions—review the recommendations and produce a ballot with approximately twenty semifinalists in each category. The semifinalists were announced in February, and all the New Mexico contenders are featured in this edition of Table-Hopping. The ballot is then distributed online to the entire voting body— committee members, judges, scouts, and tasting panelists. All votes count equally and are tabulated by an independent accounting firm. The five semifinalists with the highest number of votes become the nominees. In March, three of New Mexico’s semifinalist chefs were announced as nominees for Best Chef: Southwest (Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, Oklahoma). For the final round, subcommittee members and tasting panelists visit restaurants in their region and score all nominees based on a number of criteria, ultimately determining the winners. The winners will be announced in Chicago this June. We wish them all the best of luck! 38

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ZACATLÁN Semifinalist Best New Restaurant

What we are eating: Bone Marrow with esquites, Hatch green chile, brioche toast, and truffle mustard (pictured); Duck Legs Confit with huitlacoche succotash, mole poblano, house-made tortillas, and plátano frito. Find: 317 Aztec, Santa Fe, zacatlanrestaurant.com

WI N E BI S T RO

PRANZO upscale Italian cuisine

Dozens of Amazing Wines by the Glass

DINNER Fri & Sat 5-9pm Sun, Mon & Thurs 5-8pm Closed Tues & Wed 304 Johnson St, Santa Fe 505-989-1166 terracottawinebistro.com

PRANZO ITALIAN GRILL, 321 JOHNSON STREET, SANTA FE Tuesday–Saturday, 11:30 am–9 pm, Happy Hour Daily 4–6 pm

SLOW ROASTED BOCADILLOS

Semifinalist Best Chef: Southwest—Marie Yniguez What we are eating: Cuban Named Ruben with slow-roasted corned beef and pork, bacon, red onion, house-made kraut, sweet chile sauce and chipotle 1000, and asadero and muenster cheese.

Find: Inside the Wells Fargo building, 200 Lomas NW, Ste 110, Albuquerque, bocadillos505.com

JAMBO CAFÉ Semifinalist

SAZÓN Semifinalist and Nominee Best Chef: Southwest—Fernando Olea

What we are eating: Moroccan Spiced Beef Brisket Wrap slow cooked in Moroccan spices and served with greens in a pita topped with harissa sauce (pictured); Jerk Chicken Wings served with a pineapple curry sauce.

What we are eating: Foie Gras with cayenne pepper, raspberry, and ground coconut whipped butter (pictured, top); Duck Breast with mole verde served with snow peas, red cabbage, and jasmine rice; Helado de Mole Poblano with mole poblano ice cream floating in chocolate with roasted beet and sweet potato crisps (pictured, bottom).

Find: 2010 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, jambocafe.net

Find: 221 Shelby, Santa Fe, sazonsantafe.com

Best Chef: Southwest—Ahmed Obo

LA GUELAGUETZA Semifinalist and Nominee Best Chef: Southwest—the Salazar brothers

What we are eating: Chicken Enchiladas Mole served with picoso negro coloradito, beans, and rice (pictured); Quesabirria Tacos with beef tacos and birria broth. Find: 816 Old Coors SW, Albuquerque la-guelaguetza-mexican-restaurantllc.business.site

614 Trinity Drive, Los Alamos • 505-662-8877 pajaritobrewpubandgrill.com

RESTAURANT MARTÍN Semifinalist and Nominee Best Chef: Southwest—Martín Rios

What we are eating: Seasonal Vegetarian Tasting Plate featuring pasta with arugula pesto; pecan and shallot crispy polenta with pecorino sauce; cold corn soup; and tomato and grapefruit salad with creamy lemon dressing. Find: 526 Galisteo, Santa Fe, restaurantmartin.com

730 St Michaels Dr, Santa Fe, loyalhoundpub.com

NEW MEXICO LOCUST A TREE, NOT A BUG

Words and Photos by Ellen Zachos

The next time you’re driving down the street in spring and see a tree dripping with long clusters of gorgeous pink flowers, stop and smell the New Mexico locust. These flowers only last for about two weeks, depending on the weather. (Hot weather makes the blooms pass more quickly than cool weather.) You’ll find them in late spring to early summer, depending on where you forage. It’s a native tree with beautiful blooms that can be used to make fritters and syrups or be added raw to salads. Robinia neomexicana is an easy tree to spot and identify, especially in bloom. Pull over! The New Mexico locust is an understory tree native to the southwestern United States. In the wild, they grow to be about ten to fifteen feet tall and are often multistemmed, with pale pink flowers. 42

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Cultivars of New Mexico locust have been bred as single-stemmed trees with bright pink blooms. They may grow to be twenty to twentyfive feet tall and are often planted as street trees. The tree has a suckering growth habit, which means it spreads by underground rhizomes. It’s not unusual to find thick clonal clumps growing in nature. The leaves of the New Mexico locust are a pretty blue-green, and composed of multiple leaflets. Cultivars bred for landscaping may not have thorns, but locust trees in nature are heavily armed. Most bear pairs of sharp thorns at the base of each leaf, especially on their younger branches, so be careful when you reach in to pick a cluster of flowers. Also, this is an important pollinator plant and a favorite for all sorts of flying insects, so be sure not to disturb them as you forage.

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LOCUST FLOWER SORBET This sorbet is floral, with a hint of grape; it’s sweet, but balanced by the lemon. 2 cups locust blossoms 2 cups sugar 2 cups water Juice of 1 lemon The stems of each flower cluster are tender enough to snap off with your fingers, or you can use a pair of pruners. Give your flowers a shake (to get rid of any hitchhikers) and refrigerate them in a plastic bag if you don’t plan to use them right away. They’ll keep in the refrigerator for a few days. You’ll find lots of recipes online for locust flower fritters. They’re a tasty treat and fun to make with kids, but you won’t really get to appreciate the flavor or texture of the locust flowers this way. Honestly, what wouldn’t taste good dipped in batter, deep fried, and sprinkled with powdered sugar? Raw flowers, on the other hand, make a great addition to salads and desserts. They have excellent substance and texture, and make a sweet, satisfying pop when you bite down on them. Sprinkle individual flowers on top of all kinds of salads—green, pasta, tuna, chicken—or onto ice cream, cupcakes, or panna cotta. The flavor is floral, naturally sweet (but not overwhelmingly so), and a little fruity. Making a syrup with locust flowers is a great way to capture the flavor and color of the blooms, and it can be used in different ways. My favorite way to use it is as a base for sorbet. The addition of lemon juice turns the syrup from purple to magenta. It’s as beautiful as it is delicious.

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

Remove the locust flowers from their stems and put them in a bowl. Add 1/4 cup sugar, and mash the flowers into the sugar with a pestle until the flowers have formed a paste. Two cups of flowers and 1/4 cup sugar should reduce to about 1/2 cup of paste. Combine water and remaining 1 3/4 cups sugar in a saucepan, and bring to a boil, whisking to dissolve the sugar. Add the flower paste, stir, and reduce heat to a simmer. Let the syrup simmer for 10 minutes, then remove from heat, cover, and let cool for at least an hour, or overnight. Strain off the solids, pressing down on them to extract as much liquid as possible. Then strain the syrup one more time to catch any little bits and pieces. Add lemon juice and prepare to be amazed! The dark purple syrup turns magenta as it combines with the acidic lemon. Refrigerate syrup for at least an hour, then process in your ice-cream maker. If you have a few leftover blossoms, sprinkle them on top of the sorbet when you serve it—a feast for the eyes and the stomach.

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

COOKING FRESH

Stone Fruit

Recipes for the Fruits of Summer Words and photos by Stephanie Cameron Whether eating Cara Cara oranges in February, strawberries in May, watermelons in July, or d’Anjou pears in December, fruit will only taste of perfection when in season. New Mexico’s stone fruit season begins in late spring with cherries and apricots and runs through mid-to-late summer with peaches, nectarines, and plums (and plums can continue on into early fall). As I write this edition of Cooking Fresh, I hope the delicate flowering fruit trees around the state will survive the on-again, off-again coming of spring. Still, it is rare for all our trees to provide

bumper crops every year, so these are recipes that can substitute any stone fruit that makes a showing this year in our yards and at the markets. And as the air warms this summer, be sure to pluck a perfectly ripe peach from your neighbor’s tree (or your own!). Close your eyes, feel the fuzz tickle your tongue, savor the sweetness of the flesh as the juice drips down your chin, take in the fragrant smell through your nostrils. Enjoy a few minutes of the good life.

Stone Fruit Pickles Stone fruit isn’t just for jams. Pickled stone fruit can add vibrant color and lip-puckering goodness to a cheese board; be served alongside grilled meats; be layered on a sandwich; or tossed with pasta, salad, or whole grains—and, of course, it can be served over ice cream. With the basic Prep time: 10 minutes; Cook time: 5 minutes; Total time: 15 minutes Makes 1 quart 2 cups fresh cherries, stemmed and pitted, or 2 cups firm, ripe stone fruit such as peaches, plums, or nectarines, cut into quarters or wedges 1 cup apple cider vinegar 1 cup water 1/2 dark brown sugar 1 tablespoon pickling salt or kosher salt 2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns 5 sprigs fresh thyme

recipe below, you can customize pickles with different kinds of vinegar, spices, and herbs—this is just one of the endless variations to try. Use very firm fruit; soft fruit will break down in the jar too quickly.

Prep your fruit and pack it into a quart-sized jar. Add vinegar, water, sugar, and salt to a medium saucepan. Cook over high heat until sugar dissolves and the liquid comes to a boil. Pour brine over the fruit in the jar. Add your fresh and dried spices, herbs, and other flavorings to the jar. Seal jar and store in the fridge overnight before using. Pro tip: You can also preserve your creations through water-bath canning, saving them for later use. NMSU produced a helpful guide for canning fruit at aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_e/E319/welcome.html Customize your pickle flavors: Rosemary, thyme, pepper flakes, and peppercorns are great with peaches, while ginger, cloves, and allspice work well with plums. And if you prefer a more savory pickle, cut the sugar by up to half. For a more sour flavor, bump up the vinegar. Other additions to try are basil, fresh turmeric, or shallots.

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Stone Fruit Pizza Of course, fresh pizza dough will produce the best results for homemade pizza, but I’m going to skip a tutorial on making dough. With the many sources for fresh dough now, you can grab a ball at the market or create your own with one of many online recipes (Serious Eats is a good Prep time: 15 minutes; Cook time: 10 minutes; Total time: 25 minutes Makes 4 individual pizzas 1 ball pizza dough (about 16 ounces), divided 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided 2 cups ricotta, buffalo mozzarella, or goat cheese 1 3/4 cups stone fruit, pitted and sliced (one or multiple kinds of fruit) 1/2 cup fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano, shaved 1/2 cup fresh basil or arugula 2 tablespoons high-quality balsamic for drizzling

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

reference). This recipe inspires some creativity with sweet and savory ingredients, highlighting stone fruit as the meal’s star. Use firm fruit; soft fruit will release too many juices and make for a soggy pizza.

Preheat oven to 500ºF. Divide dough into four balls. Roll out each dough ball until about a 1/4 inch thick. The outer edge should be a little thicker than the inner portion. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper or grease the pan lightly with olive oil. Place rolled-out dough onto parchment paper or greased pan. Drizzle olive oil onto dough and rub it over surface to coat evenly. Cover dough with a layer of cheese, about 1/2 cup per pizza. Arrange one layer of sliced stone fruit on top of the cheese. Sprinkle the fruit layer with fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano. Bake for approximately 10 minutes or until the crust is slightly brown and the cheese is melting. Sprinkle each pizza with fresh basil or arugula. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar.

Art, Culture, History and Beyond

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Stone Fruit Salsa Salsa is one of those recipes that almost seems silly to document because it is so simple, but maybe stone fruit doesn’t come to mind when whipping up a bowl of summer freshness. Either ripe or firm fruit works in salsa. For an alternative to cilantro, you can substitute mint, and you can use any stone fruit you like or a combination of different kinds. Serve with corn chips or on fish tacos. Total time (including prep): 10 minutes Makes 1 1/2 cups 1 pound mixed stone fruit, pitted and diced into small cubes 1–2 small jalapeños, deseeded and minced 1/4 red onion, minced 1 clove garlic, minced 2–3 tablespoons cilantro or mint, minced Juice from 1 lime 1–2 teaspoons honey, optional 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 1/4 teaspoon sea salt Toss together stone fruit, jalapeños, red onion, garlic, and cilantro or mint in a bowl. Squeeze lime over the mixture and add honey, black pepper, and salt. Stir until well combined. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Stone Fruit Gazpacho Stone fruit gazpacho takes a playful spin on the traditional Spanish cold soup. This recipe uses red onion and fresh herbs as a garnish and to add a little texture to the soup, but they also could be mixed into the puree to allow the flavors to meld. Fruit should be ripe, not firm. Total time (including prep): 10 minutes Serves 4 1 pound stone fruit of choice, peeled, pitted, and crushed with hands 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons sherry or champagne vinegar, plus more to taste Juice of 1/2 lime Salt, to taste Garnish options 1/4 red onion, minced Basil, cilantro, or mint leaves Black pepper, freshly ground Drizzle of extra virgin olive oil Ice cubes Pulse crushed fruit in a food processor a few times to create a rough puree—a little bit of texture is desirable. Add oil, vinegar, lime juice, and a pinch of salt to the puree. Taste and adjust any of the seasonings. Chill for at least 1–2 hours before serving. Serve in small bowls garnished with minced red onion, herbs, fresh pepper, a drizzle of oil, and an ice cube.

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

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Upside-Down Cake Soft and buttery upside-down cake with caramelized brown sugar is another opportunity to use stone fruit. Once flipped, the juices seep down into the cake, adding flavor and texture. Get imaginative with patterns and use fresh herbs to kick up the flavor profile. Halve smaller Prep time: 20 minutes; Cook time: 50 minutes; Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes Serves 8–10 For the topping 1/4 cup butter 2/3 cup light brown sugar, tightly packed 2–3 cups stone fruit, enough to cover the bottom of the pan 3–4 tablespoons fresh herbs, chopped (optional) For the cake 1 1/2 cups cake flour or all-purpose flour 1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 2/3 cup sugar 1 large egg 1/3 cup sour cream 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/3 cup milk

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

stone fruit, such as cherries and apricots, and slice nectarines, peaches, or plums. The fruit should be ripe but not overripe, as too-soft fruit will make the cake soggy.

Preheat oven to 350°F (325°F for dark pans). Melt butter in a 10-inch round cake pan or cast-iron skillet. Sprinkle brown sugar evenly over the butter. Lay out the fruit; fruit should be one layer thick, covering the bottom of the pan. If using herbs, sprinkle on top of the fruit. Place pan in the refrigerator while making the batter so the placement of the fruit can solidify. Whisk the cake flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together. Set aside. Using a mixer, beat butter on high until creamy, about 1 minute. Add sugar and cream together. Beat egg until well combined, and then add vanilla and sour cream. Pour in dry ingredients, turn mixer to low, and slowly add milk until combined, but don’t overmix. Remove the pan with the fruit from the refrigerator and pour the batter over the fruit, using care not to disturb fruit. Bake for 45–50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove from the oven. Run a knife around the edge of the pan and turn the pan over onto a platter quickly. Leave the pan on top of the cake for about 3 minutes, then carefully lift it. If any pieces of fruit are stuck to the cake pan, gently scrape them up with a knife and replace them on the cake. Let the cake cool before serving.

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A SYMPHONY OF SPECIES BEYOND HUMAN REGENERATION Words and Photos by Christie Green

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

hen I didn’t draw for elk in the spring 2021 lottery, I purchased a private tag for Unit 53 from a landowner in San Cristobal. Now I scan Gaia, Bureau of Land Management, and US Forest Service maps, looking for clues and making a plan for the five-day hunt. I imagine small herds of elk circulating among these places of high and low, seeking cool shelter from the warm November daytime temperatures and descending quietly into the open, grassy areas come nightfall. The ground is hard, dry, grazed. The last snow drifted and settled nearly two weeks ago. When I ask the game warden and the cashier at the local hardware store, “How have the elk hunts been? Anyone getting into them?” they respond similarly: “Nope. No snow. Some guys have hunted the full five days and haven’t seen one elk. The herds are up high, huddled in the timbers. No weather or snow to push ’em down.” After first light on opening day, I walk the contour of a northfacing slope, following tracks of two elk that walked here within the last twelve hours. The dense trees enclose me, darken and shade my way as the sun rises, illuminating treetops. Frozen tracks show a bear’s path through the center of an overgrown Forest Service road. Based on the large size and singular track without smaller accompanying cub tracks, I’m guessing it was a boar who walked here during the last snow. The definition of the tracks has blurred with each daily freeze-thaw cycle. The bear reminds me that I am a visitor here whose human plan could be overturned at any moment. The animals decide what’s next. *** I’ve chosen to insert myself into the local food chain as a grower of fruits and vegetables and as a hunter for meat. I feed myself, family, and friends as much as possible from what I’ve harvested and hunted. This choice to situate myself as a part of, rather than separate from, nature is complex and also reflects a degree of privilege. I do not earn a living from the food I produce. Like the geologist Marcia Bjornerud, I hope to gain, and inspire others to gain, “a radical shift in worldview, a life-altering change in their perception of who they are. . . . a deep sense of themselves as citizens of the Earth.”

“Y

To become citizens of our planet is to remember and reactivate a land-based connection that embodies reciprocity and respect. Rather than viewing water, soil, plants, animals, and even air as resources to be extracted and used for human sustenance and profit, what would it be like to embrace them as beings equal to—or greater than—ourselves? What would we see as intrinsically valuable and, therefore, worth protecting and cherishing? I consider the thirty-three endangered and twenty threatened species (forty animals, thirteen plants) in New Mexico as I reach out to ranchers, farmers, biologists, and leaders in land stewardship. What emerges during our conversations is a key principle of regenerative land practices: relationships. Rather than focusing on one element within an ecosystem, these stewards emphasize the importance and complexity of connections among people and place—animals, habitat, water, and soil. The health of each determines the resilience of the whole. *** “We have people who build soil, reduce erosion, and harvest water on working landscapes—places with cattle or agriculture—and also those who simply want to improve habitat for wildlife,” says Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, executive director of the Quivira Coalition. “There’s a private landowner east of I-25 who’s been implementing regenerative practices to enhance habitat for mule deer. And another who calls herself a grass farmer who’s specifically interested in diversifying and fortifying grassland species. Neither of these landowners produce cattle, but they do utilize cattle as regenerative tools on their land to improve soil health and forage production.” Sam Ryerson of Grass Nomads, LLC, echoes this, saying, “Yeah, we’ve had a landowner call us to bring in a group of eight hundred yearling cattle for a short-term, four-month grazing rotation. He recognizes the benefits of the cattle to add vitality to the grassland ecosystem by invigorating grass growth aboveground while stimulating root vitality below. The cattle also add benefit to the soil with their manure and mechanical integration of nutrients with their hooves. We see how their big, heavy bodies move through shrub cover, rubbing leaves and organic matter onto the soil surface, too.” Both Wentzel-Fisher and Ryerson speak about these holistic practices that benefit multiple elements of the ecosystem over time.

“You know, it’s about multispecies rotational grazing and interspecies partnership. We must work with the land as opposed to working on the land. The cycle of nature is harmonious and there’s a rhythm to it. It behooves us to pay attention to it and all that happens at different times of the year, working in symphony with the land to create a magnificent harmony.” EDIBLENM.COM

Clockwise from top left: Tuda Libby Crews of Ute Creek Cattle Company in Harding County; elk track; plastic balls in stock tanks at Ute Creek; and entrance to twenty-three-acre bird sanctuary at Ute Creek.

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

In the arid Southwest, with an average precipitation of eight to fourteen inches per year, regenerative practices require a long-term and large-scale view to take hold. “Landowners realize the benefits to their cattle operation when they take care of the soil, water, plants, and wildlife too. Many ranchers really are conservationists who are committed to the land,” says Ryerson. Speaking of one cattle ranch he’s worked with, he adds, “Yeah, they want a healthy bottom line, but they want healthy land too. The most beneficial impacts of grazing promote diversity in forage species and in soil cover that leads to increased biodiversity below and above the soil.” “How do the ranch owners view and deal with wildlife like elk that compete with the cattle for forage?” I ask. “Ninety percent of their diet overlaps with cattle,” Ryerson explains. “The ranch does receive elk hunting tags from the New Mexico Game and Fish Department and runs a hunting operation [separate from our grazing lease], but what we’ve done is observe elk behavior over time. What often happens . . . is that the elk will come in right behind the cattle,” he says. “Resting the pasture after grazing helps save its root structure, so this means grazing lighter with the cattle in anticipation of elk grazing on top of that. Rather than trying to eliminate elk pressure, which is practically impossible, we focus on timing . . . so we anticipate the elk’s needs and move the cattle onto other pastures sooner.” Later, I ask Rex Martensen, the Private Land Program manager with New Mexico Game and Fish, how elk grazing impacts cattle rangeland productivity. He acknowledges the challenges, noting that the department provides eight-foot fencing and posts for landowners who want to build fences to keep elk out. Martensen also tells me how their Habitat Incentive Program, for landowners who want to actively improve elk habitat on their land, has grown in popularity. “We see the herds as stable, and actually increasing,” he says. “They’re doing well. They know how to adapt and, of course, populations fluctuate over time in changing conditions.” *** My eye catches a fairy-tale opening where a narrow game trail peeks out from the forest. I see elk droppings that riddle the understory like breadcrumb clues. The shadowy portal beckons me to come hither, to tread farther into the timbers, cross between peaks and follow the trail to the wallow. As I pass through the saddle and drop to the north side, I see a shallow puddle rimmed with dried mud, where rutting bulls clearly gathered in early fall. Urinating, stomping, and rolling in this shallow bog to cover themselves with their own randy scent, the bulls must have bugled, scraped their antlers against tree trunks, and sparred, signaling to cow elk their readiness to mate. A flash of motion catches my eye. A snowshoe hare darts across the duff, the only white in a snowless terrain. I imagine her coat losing its color, shapeshifting into winter wear when the bear would have dug his den. Both are active now, this little rabbit conspicuously so, as if she were the only one notified of the changing seasons. The forest rests, bare. The sky expands above, bald, cloudless.

*** The US Fish and Wildlife Service offers technical and financial support to landowners seeking to diversify and regenerate wildlife habitat. Since 1987, the Partners for Fish and Wildlife program has helped landowners build healthy habitat in more than sixty thousand projects on nearly six million acres nationwide. Many of these projects take place on working landscapes where wildlife, forests, and grasslands intersect with farm and ranch operations. In New Mexico, the program has funded restoration work including the construction of perennial ponds for migratory birds on agricultural land in El Guique along the Rio Grande north of Ohkay Owingeh; planting pollinator-attracting perennials at the Española Healing Foods Oasis; and building berms, swales, and one-rock dams to support native trees and shrubs along an erosive tributary of the the Santa Fe River. “Applications for our EQIP [Environmental Quality Incentives Program] program have taken off, especially during COVID, when so many people started growing their own food,” says David Griego, district conservationist for the US Department of Agriculture Natural Resources Conservation Service, which also offers funding to regenerate working landscapes. “Folks are interested in all of it, not just irrigation systems and tunnel houses, but water, habitat, and soil health.” Of the increasing applications for federal support, Griego says they’re only able to fund about 30 to 40 percent each year, but that they encourage folks to reapply. When I ask what makes for a successful application, Griego says, “The people who are looking at the whole. The ones who want to integrate agriculture, livestock, soil conservation, growing season extenders, irrigation, nutrient and pest management, and wildlife habitat. And those that recognize the importance of active management. They get the highest scores.” Each person I visit with emphasizes one essential—and critically at risk—element: water. Aquifers and surface water sources like creeks, rivers, ponds, and lakes may be replenished through landowner and agency practices. “We help with wells, acequias, drip irrigation, and sources for livestock tanks,” Griego explains. A watershed approach that includes improving water quality and quantity is essential for the long-term health of habitat beyond the boundaries of rangeland ownership. “One thing [livestock] producers provide on dry rangelands is a consistent drinking water supply through wells and pipelines where there would not otherwise be any water much of the year,” Ryerson of Grass Nomads reiterates, “and that benefits cattle and wildlife.” Ryerson lights up when he tells me about a relatively new practice they’re trying at the Ojo Feliz Ranch near Ocate. “We’re building these beaver dam analogues. Beavers can be so critical to watershed health, so we’re trying to mimic the structures they build that slow the flow and filter the water. We’ll be holding some educational workshops on how these work this spring.” *** Later in the afternoon, I descend a narrow drainage that drops to the west, off the saddle. I’ve just passed an icy puddle encircled in thick, frozen mud. Bull elk tracks riddle the puddle periphery and understory. EDIBLENM.COM

Ute Creek at Ute Creek Cattle Company.

Multiple piles of old sign and at least six rubs on spruce trunks tell me this is a wallow, where bulls congregated during the rut earlier this fall. Dropping down from the wallow, I arrive near the truck in time for lunch and decide to sit in the shade to cool off and ice my feet. I shed layers in the midday heat, unlacing my boots and pulling off my thick socks. I wiggle my toes and pump my ankles, then push my soles and arches into the iciest part of the creek, welcoming the numbing frigidity and immediate contact with the water that has carved these drainages. *** One land steward I spoke with shared her experiences and observations after having returned to her family land in 2000. Much of what Tuda Libby Crews and her husband, Jack, have implemented at Ute Creek Cattle Company in Harding County has been what she considers an experiment. “I figure you’ve got a fifty-fifty chance of something working out. May as well try something new . . . it just might succeed!” And that’s what she has done in the two decades she’s been at the fourteen-thousand-acre ranch. Crews is a person whose lifestyle and livelihood are literally grounded in soil, water, plants, and animals. A seventh-generation rancher, she inherited the ranch east of Roy from her parents, and, in partnership with her husband, her neighbors and community, and federal and local organizations, has transformed it into a vibrant shortgrass prairie and riparian ecosystem with robust diversity of life. The inaugural recipient of the Leopold Conservation Award in New Mexico in 2021, Crews has been recognized for her leadership in innovative conservation techniques and partnerships. “It’s about relationships,” she emphasizes as we sit down to a brisket and caramelized onion slider lunch in her colorful dining room. 58

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

With funding from Partners for Fish and Wildlife as well as the Environmental Quality Incentives Program, the ranch was able to remove invasive species like salt cedar from ten miles of Ute Creek that flow through the property. The wood from the trees that were removed was stacked and used to stabilize creek banks and provide habitat. What was an atrophied trickle when Crews first took over the ranch has now grown into a consistently hydrated meander, teeming with hawks, songbirds, antelope, and other native animals. Grazing was restricted along six miles of the river, eliminating creek access to erosive cattle traffic and allowing the creek banks to rest, revegetate, and recover from overuse. On the ranch’s rangeland, four pastures were converted into twentysix distinct areas to allow for rotational grazing. “We use time to determine when cattle should be moved from one area to another,” Crews tells me. Some areas are left fallow for at least three months “so that plant species and soil may recover, and regenerate depth and vitality of roots while also sequestering carbon.” Another experiment Crews considers a success is her collaboration with a Los Alamos scientist to find ways to conserve water. “We’re using these four-inch-diameter plastic shade balls in the stock tanks. They float on the surface and reduce evaporation by 91 percent. We’re saving sixteen thousand gallons of water each year!” Her enthusiasm is infectious. “We have a twenty-three-acre bird sanctuary that is designated as shortgrass prairie habitat for birds— water, forage, cover, nesting. I see this as being futuristic, providing for future generations. We don’t know if bird numbers will increase, especially given this current climate crisis, but I’m doing everything I can to ensure that habitat will be cared for and enhanced.” Since Crews and her husband took over the ranch, the bird species count in the sanctuary has grown from seventeen to over a hundred.

Crews is also involved with the Central Grasslands Roadmap project, a collaboration between Canada, the United States, and Mexico. Crews beams as she describes how this effort transcends political boundaries, recognizing the importance of the shortgrass prairie ecosystem extending across North America. “Birds are nature’s indicator species,” Crews says. “They show us what’s not healthy, so we must listen. Now we’re looking at how to regenerate entire migratory flyway paths.” Crews pauses before continuing. “You know, it’s about multispecies rotational grazing and interspecies partnership. We must work with the land as opposed to working on the land. The cycle of nature is harmonious and there’s a rhythm to it. It behooves us to pay attention to it and all that happens at different times of the year, working in symphony with the land to create a magnificent harmony.” *** Sunday, the second day of the hunt, ends like a quiet exhale. I sit, my back against a naked, fallen tree situated smack in the middle of the meadow I walked just before lunch. No elk. No other animals. No activity, nothing passing before my eyes or into my ears except another exceptional sunset. The rising moon, waxing silver, swells in the red sky. Finally, in near darkness, I stand, look behind me, and walk to the pickup. Back in the Airstream, I scour the topographic lines on maps, reviewing where I’ve been, what I’ve seen, and where I want to go. I’m torn in disparate directions. It’s too warm and dry, and the elk are elusive, but I want to keep going. I scan the maps again after supper and decide to walk behind the locked gate where the New Mexico Game and Fish game warden had suggested I try when I called him a couple of months ago to ask about the unit. “That’s a good, secluded area, Christie. Right there at Midnight Meadows, but off limits to vehicles. They’ve closed it for restoration. You might try walking back in there.” *** Walking at dawn on the third morning, there is elk sign everywhere. Broken branches where musky bulls rubbed their hormonal aggression, tracks pressed into soft soil, and piles of droppings scattered on every inch of ground. I can tell they’ve been here. But still, no elk. I imagine the cow elk, crossing the saddles and dropping down drainages to the mouth of meadows for moonlight grazing. Her muzzle presses to the earth, she takes in her nourishment without fork or spoon. I envy her, this direct proximity, where her tongue deciphers taste, bootless hooves read intimate topography, nose steers her from danger, and her thick hide serves as shelter from storms. She uses no tool or accessory. As I trace the cow elk’s steps that crisscross Cabresto Creek, I consider her life compared to mine. Her abilities. Her strength. My vulnerability, my neediness.

I am an intruder in her home. I ask the ultimate sacrifice: her life, her body, her surrender to death so that I may eat. *** I consider our asserted place as the apex species in the food chain and web of life and tend to believe it’s time to invert our position. Given the progressive soil, water, and habitat projects that locals are implementing across broad scales of time and space, will we be able to shift our role from anthropocentric consumers to earthling neighbors and providers? Along with new technologies, creative partnerships, and constructed systems that mimic nature, perhaps another type of attunement is necessary: a change of heart. If we recognize plants and animals, along with water, air, and soil as our kin, if we slow down to listen to the teachings of elk, hare, beaver, and bear and observe the wisdom of water and soil, how might our relationship with them change? Could giving supplant taking? As David Abram, a cultural ecologist and philosopher and the founder and creative director of the Alliance for Wild Ethics, reflects in “Wild Ethics and Participatory Science: Thinking Between the Body and the Breathing Earth”: “If we wish to bring humankind into a new reciprocity with the rest of the biosphere, then we will need to release ourselves from the tyranny of outmoded concepts. . . . We’ll need to renew our felt experience of the land as a complex of sensitive and sentient powers, as a boisterous community of beings in which our own lives are participant and to which we are beholden.” *** Back home, I put the stockpot on to boil. I’ve set aside the day to peel the skin and hair from the elk’s face, cut her ears from bone, and open her lips and tongue, pulling them from the rigid armature that’s held the soft tissue together. Once I have most of the meat scraped from her skull, I will place her in the boiling water. She came to me at 7:15 the third morning of the hunt, an unlikely intersection between species at the meadow-timber edge after I had veered off my planned course. Something nudged me toward a darker, less exposed place beyond the locked gate. I smelled her first, her powerful musk scent swirling among conifer needles and dry scrub oak leaves. Our eyes met, suspended in that flash of a moment before I chose to pull the trigger. Her eyes bulge back at me now as I scrape the skin. Her teeth, more exposed without the cover of velvety lips, rest in her closed lower jaw. I see the top two teeth, her ivories, the only upper front teeth she has. I work them round and round and pry them loose with my fingers. The ivories are a vestige of another time when elk ancestors roamed the earth with long, curved tusks protruding from their mouths. The elk have evolved, tuskless, but the ivory remains, centuries later. I hold her teeth in my palms, rub my thumb over their antique sepia veneer, wondering all the while how much more my splitsecond shot took than this one life at hand. EDIBLENM.COM

THE ART OF PRESERVATION

AMID GREAT CHANGE

HONORING THE LEGACY OF FABIOLA CABEZA DE BACA By Emily Withnall · Photos by Leon Bustos

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

Inside the horno constructed by the Torres family at the Cultural Park in Las Vegas.

he morning of the Matanza, it took seven people to lift the metal lid from the pit at the Cultural Park at New Mexico Highlands University (NMHU). A cloud of steam and the aroma of pork enveloped everyone, taking the edge off the chilly October morning. Eric Romero, chair of the Department of Languages and Culture at NMHU and the pit supervisor, was nervous about whether the meat would be properly done, since the Matanza marked the first time the Cultural Park and new pit were being used. An older pit, dug adjacent to the football field in the early 2000s, used adobe bricks as its lining, but this pit uses firebricks. To meet safety and health codes, the meat had to be at least 145 degrees. To Romero’s relief, the meat was 180 degrees and moist. La matanza, which translates as “the killing,” originated in Spain during a period of Moorish rule. Traditionally, it was practiced to distribute food to the community before winter. When the matanza was brought to the Americas, the tradition merged with Indigenous harvest practices that served a similar purpose for tribal communities. For Romero, it’s important to recognize the matanza as a living and evolving celebration. “It’s not just recognizing Indigenous heritage and ancestors but recognizing that their teaching and their contributions are still here—and it’s best evidenced by food traditions,” he explains. “Cuisine is not following a recipe; it’s about inserting yourself within a tradition of culture in a discourse of food.” With the construction of the Cultural Park, the brainchild of the university’s Diversity, Equity and Inclusion Advisory Council, Romero hopes to expand the discourse of cultural food traditions across campus, throughout Las Vegas, and among the small communities nearby. For Romero, the Cultural Park is also a way to honor the legacy of NMHU alumna Fabiola Cabeza de Baca. Cabeza de Baca was one of the first to publish a recipe for the hardshell taco and propagated the widespread use of chopped green chile as relish on New Mexican dishes. And as her books and other publications reveal, Cabeza de Baca was deeply dedicated to the cultivation and preservation of traditional New Mexican recipes. “In the matter of how we’re working with the Cultural Park, we want to reiterate some of those traditions and share them with students, so they develop their own story, narrative, cuisine, and creations,” says Romero.

“I

The Cultural Park is an open space adjacent to the university’s newest dorm buildings. The ground is brick lined, and banco seating stretches the length of the back side of the cooking area, surrounded by a low wall. Near the pit, an horno constructed by the Torres family from Questa sits on a concrete platform. Known for their horno building, the Torres father, son, and daughter worked together on this project, which includes chains dangling from the dome inside for hanging meat, a thermometer embedded in the wall, and a traditional enjarre coating. According to Romero, many Pueblos will not use a new horno until it has been blessed, so he asked Hummingbird Calabaza of the Tewa nation to perform the blessing. “Our first cook was traditional, of course,” he exclaims with a laugh. “Pizza!” For the Matanza, the horno was used to roast sweet corn as well as maiz del concho (white dent corn) to make chicos. A cylinder roaster was brought in for chile. Romero says the corn all came from the Pecos Valley. “Our preference, of course, is to buy locally.” Romero sees the Cultural Park as a way to rebuild the kind of food sovereignty that Cabeza de Baca supported throughout her life. “Historically, Las Vegas and northern New Mexico have had an agricultural foundation,” he says. “But right now, we’re a food desert. We don’t eat the food we produce.” Romero attributes both the beginning of the decline of agriculture in the state and Indigenous land loss to the railroad, which arrived in New Mexico in 1879. He says New Mexico’s Office of the Surveyor General colluded with private landowners to take Indigenous land and forced people into cities. And although many agricultural practices have continued in New Mexico, these practices have shifted away from vegetable farming and toward ranching. Cabeza de Baca was born in La Liendre to a landowning Hispano family in the late 1800s, just as the railroad and shift toward ranching became prominent in New Mexico. She earned her home economics certificate from New Mexico Normal School, which later became NMHU. Cabeza de Baca then worked as a Spanish teacher while she earned her degree in home economics at New Mexico State University. Her expertise in Spanish, education, and home economics caught the attention of New Mexico’s director of the Agricultural Extension Service, a program initiated across the United States in 1914 to support farmers with research and information, introduce new technology, and encourage them to stay on the land.

It’s important to recognize the matanza as a living and evolving celebration. “It’s not just recognizing Indigenous heritage and ancestors but recognizing that their teaching and their contributions are still here—and it’s best evidenced by food traditions,” Eric Romero explains. EDIBLENM.COM

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

Rural, Spanish-speaking New Mexico, however, was slow in adapting the government’s initiatives. It wasn’t until 1917 that the state’s Extension Service hired Spanish-speaking agents, and when Cabeza de Baca joined in 1929, she was among just a few of the agency’s Spanish-speaking Hispano women. Although Cabeza de Baca’s wealthy upbringing initially presented some barriers when she visited small villages, her natural curiosity ultimately made her successful. “She represented the government going into households and introducing new food traditions,” Romero says. “That was really an interesting period because you think it would be somewhat antagonistic to have government workers going into communities and telling locals how to cook their food.” The blending of cultural traditions and acknowledgement of generational change made Cabeza de Baca more effective than other extension agents. As she wrote in the Journal of Home Economics in 1942, a family she visited once served her fried potatoes, canned beef, and white bread while they ate beans, chile, and tortillas. When she asked them why they had served her different food, they said “We thought you didn’t like the kind of food we poor people eat.” She explained that not only did she eat the same food, but that it was much more nutritious. Her now-101-year-old cousin, and former New Mexico legislator, J. Paul Taylor, remembers that she was always received warmly. “I went with her to some of those villages,” he says. “It was always so nice because she was so welcome there.” Cabeza de Baca’s respect for food traditions outside her own, such as various Pueblo food traditions, and her willingness to incorporate those traditions into her work and recipes, are a model for students at NMHU, who are now engaged in a similar type of learning. A curved strip of land surrounding the Cultural Park’s cooking area will soon be filled with a heritage orchard and healing herb garden. Some native trees have already been transplanted, including chokecherry, sour cherry, gooseberry, and elderberry. Apple and plum trees will soon be added. Romero says the herb garden will be planned by students. “Part of our work for the Diversity Council is the emphasis of place-based education. You look at where your students are coming from and their embedded knowledge that’s coming from the environment and community,” says Romero. “And for people coming from elsewhere, they learn the local tradition.” Incorporating students’ cultural traditions, scientific knowledge, and community narratives into the learning process is fundamental to the idea behind the Cultural Park. As Romero points out, the physics of the matanza pit comes from cultural scientific knowledge. The night before the park’s inaugural Matanza, Romero and his crew prepared the pit by layering in twenty inches of hot oak embers, followed by sheet metal, a layer of sand, several fifty-pound roasts wrapped in burlap, another layer of sand, more sheet metal, and, finally, a fire covered by the heavy metal lid. Buried in layers of metal, sand, and fire, the pig is steamed for fourteen hours overnight in a process that has changed little since eighth-century Spain.

Romero says some families in New Mexico still practice matanzas by digging a hole in their backyard, and he has learned that many other cultures across the world practice similar customs. “We’ve had international students that came to the matanzas we used to do with the student group Movimiento Estudiantil Chicano de Aztlán, and we’d get invited to their version of a matanza,” he notes. “The Cameroonian students roast a sheep, and the Samoan and Polynesian students have their own form of this too.” The healing herb garden and heritage orchard at the Cultural Park are a part of a bigger vision across campus and in Las Vegas. Faculty and staff have already started a pollinator garden and a community garden, and Romero is working with his acequia class to assess campus landscaping as an option for planting herbs and foods. “We’re hoping the grounds crew considers using all bioavailable space on campus for planting food,” he says. “The beds outside Douglas Hall were used for flowers, but at one time a secretary was using it for a squash garden. I want us to really look at our campus as a museum space and a learning space.” The vision for the Cultural Park and gardens extends beyond the NMHU campus and includes the broader public. The shaded bancos in the park make it an ideal setting for celebrations, lectures, and food-centric events. Romero hopes the park will soon include a permanent grill and smoker for event use. During the Matanza last fall, the community gathering spilled into Melody Park across the street, which easily accommodated the five hundred people in attendance. As people lined up to receive heaping plates of pork and beef roast, chicharrones, tamales, and corn, the local band Fireball played blues and rock songs. The sweet, earthy smell of roasting chile filled the air. For Romero, the road to food sovereignty starts from the ground up. “It’s one of those cultural shifts that takes a long time,” he emphasizes. “Part of that bottom-up cultural change could be small farms, ranches, community gardens, and urban gardens. With a bunch of capillary-level projects, we hope to impact students so that they’re going back to their representative communities—and particularly those who are coming from rural communities in New Mexico—and looking at the issue.” Romero jokes about our reliance on being able to buy kiwifruit from Walmart in January, but he says this as an example of the way economics and energy costs dictate our eating behaviors. For food sovereignty to take root, returning to traditional and regional food is essential. “Understand global, but buy local, and invest in your farmers market, invest in your school systems using local produce, and reconsider regulations that prohibit foraging.” Like Cabeza de Baca, Romero once traveled to many rural areas as a part of a rural education grant he received. Traveling on dirt roads, he began mapping the food he came across and recording timelines for when asparagus or wild plums appeared in various parts of northern New Mexico. “One of the activities I’m working with this semester

Opposite page: The Cultural Park at New Mexico Highlands University includes a cooking area with an horno and a matanza fire pit. EDIBLENM.COM

Left: Preparing meat for the Matanza. Right: Matanza pit.

is an almanac system called las cabañuelas,” Romero says. “Las cabañuelas is environmental and planning forecasting. It’s a Spanish tradition brought to the Americas and incorporated into Indigenous knowledge systems.” Although Romero describes las cabañuelas as folklore, he explains that it’s a useful tool to help students chronicle different planning cycles based on elevation, micro-environment, and climate change. And it can also be useful to pay attention to the animals. “I have some beautiful chokecherry trees I have to pick on just the right weekend because otherwise the starlings will eat them—you have to look for that signal,” Romero says. “Uno para mi, uno para vos, y uno para los pajaritos que son la palabra de dios.” Cabeza de Baca was also known for cultivating attention to the natural world and sharing its riches freely with others. The recipes she collected from the Native, Anglo, and Hispanic communities in northern New Mexico became so popular that she published them in her 1931 book, Historic Cookery. It was so popular that New Mexico governor Thomas Mabry sent a copy to every state governor across the country, along with a sack of pinto beans. The book was a testament to the living, changing nature of food and culture and was republished many times. “She demonstrated flexibility and creativity rather than being a staunch defender of one singular traditional way of cooking,” says Romero. “She facilitated that creativity and created contemporary cuisine. She was ahead of her time.” In her work, Cabeza de Baca was adept at connecting with people from many cultures and backgrounds, and she reportedly taught herself Tewa and Tiwa. Cabeza de Baca also understood that change was inevitable. Her preservation of Hispano history and multicultural recipes, and her unconventional life as an educated, divorced woman with no children, demonstrated to New Mexicans in that era (and ever since) that observing traditions and embracing change were not at odds. In addition to her extension work, Cabeza de Baca wrote for numerous publications, and after she retired, she was a consultant 64

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

for the United Nations and the Peace Corps. Her writing began with extension service circulars, but she had long been interested in collecting folklore, legends, and dichos. “To really become part of the community, you have to be familiar with the stories that precede you,” says Romero. “What better mechanism besides food stories? When I take a picture of my tacos and send them to you on the other side of the United States, I’m engaging in that tradition. Storytelling centered around food is historic.” Romero sees the Cultural Park as an invitation to the whole community to move toward food sovereignty. “When you’re eating a nice, succulent chicharrón, perhaps that idea is going to stick with you.” Laughing, he adds, “Rather than aromatherapy, we’ll do chicharrón therapy.” As a child, Romero was raised within the matanza tradition, which he sees as addressing sustainability issues and disparities within the community. “When we had food left over in my family, I was the corredor. I would take the leftover calabacitas to the vecinos, and particularly the elders in the community,” recalls Romero. “If they didn’t show up, there was still a consideration and concern to get them food.” Food distribution was an integral part of the Cultural Park Matanza as well. Community members took home boxes filled with tamales, chicharrones, and roast. Those who prepared the pig the night prior to the Matanza helped distribute lard to those who wanted it. In keeping with the matanza tradition, every part of the animal was used. Romero says the Highlands Diversity, Equity and Inclusion Advisory Council sees the Cultural Park as a step toward offering culturally responsive, place-based learning to the campus and beyond. “This is our opportunity to create systems of authentic education, which recognize local knowledge, local science, and local tradition not as enrichment but as the foundation for shifts within curriculum,” he reflects. “And there’s a community-building concern at the same time. This is how you build communities—you share bread.”

Food photos by Douglas Merriam

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Garduño’s at Old Town in Hotel Albuquerque 800 Rio Grande Blvd. NW | 505.843.6300 | HotelABQ.com

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LOCAL SOURCE GUIDE FOOD ARTISANS / RETAILERS Barrio Brinery

Bringing fine fermented foods to Santa Fe. 1413-B W Alameda, Santa Fe, 505-699-9812, barriobrinery.com

Bountiful Cow Cheese Company Purveyors of fine cheese, meats, and provisions from around the world. 505-473-7911, B-cow.com

Del Valle Pecans

Fresh and sweet organic pecans. From our southern New Mexico orchards to your kitchen. Order online. 575-524-1867, delvallepecans.com

Eldora Chocolate

Eldora crafts chocolate using natural, organic, and fair-trade ingredients. 8114 Edith NE, Albuquerque, 505-433-4076, eldorachocolate.com

Heidi's Raspberry Farm

Sumptuous, organic raspberry jams available throughout New Mexico and online! 600 Andrews Ln, Corrales, 505-898-1784, heidisraspberryfarm.com

High Grade Organic CBD

Our hemp is grown from seed under the sun on our USDA Certified Organic farm in the Rio Grande River Valley of northern New Mexico. highgradeorganiccbd.com

KURE

We pride ourselves on providing a unique, friendly, and welcoming environment. 220 North Guadalupe, Santa Fe, 505-930-5339, kureforlife.com

New Mexico Harvest

A community of people that actively invests in our food system. Eat local. Eat seasonal. Eat outside the box stores. Delivering across New Mexico. newmexicoharvest.com

Skarsgard Farms

Delivering fresh, local, and organically grown produce and natural groceries to doorsteps across New Mexico. 505-681-4060, skarsgardfarms.com

Hotel Andaluz

Andaluz evokes the passion and pride of the region of Spain that has inspired the hotel’s decor and architectural style. 125 Second Street NW, Albuquerque, 505-388-0088, hotelandaluz.com

Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

4803 Rio Grande NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com

Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi

Sophisticated modern aesthetic celebrating the southwestern spirit. 113 Washington, Santa Fe, 505-988-3030

Sarabande B & B

Comfort, elegance, and simplicity. 5637 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-348-5593, sarabandebnb.com

The Parador

Our 200-year-old farmhouse, Santa Fe's oldest inn, is located in historic downtown Santa Fe. 220 W Manhattan, Santa Fe, 505988-1177, elparadero.com

Vacasa

Your trusted partner for everything vacation rentals. vacasa.com

NURSERIES & SERVICES deerBrooke

Irrigation and backflow prevention specialists. Repairs, installations, and consulting. 505-319-5730, nmlawnsprinklerexperts.com

Grow Y'Own

Year-round cedar raised beds with hoops and covers. 505-490-1849, raisedbed.biz

Osuna Nursery

A family-owned and -operated nursery, gardening center, and landscaping company. 501 Osuna NE, Albuquerque, 505-345-6644, osunanursery.com

Payne’s Nursery

OTHER SERVICES

Aquarian Web Studio

Secure, stable, scalable websites. aquarianwebdesign.com

AtHomeBeFIT

Transformative fitness programs for women in the Albuquerque / Santa Fe area and livestreaming nationwide. athomebefit.com

Rio Grande Credit Union

Multiple locations in Albuquerque. riograndecu.org

RETAILERS

Daisy's Holistic Health

We offer a wide range of herbs, vitamins, supplements, and high pH H2O. 4056 Cerrillos, Unit D-1, Santa Fe, 505-780-8687, daisysholistichealth.com

Flyby Provisions

Enjoy shopping for boutique local New Mexico gifts—thoughtfully selected and packaged with care. flybyprovisions.com

Found on 4th

The eclectic lifestyle store. Vintage home decor and unique gifts. 8909 Fourth Street NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, 505-508-2207, foundon4th.com

Heritage by Hand

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Kitchenality

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Living Threads

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An eclectic shop for handmade products. 1315 Mountain NW, Albuquerque, 505-433-3204, beingthereabq.com

Susan's Fine Wine & Spirits

Your local liquor store in Santa Fe. 632 Auga Fria, sfwineandspirits.com

Santa Fe locations: Payne's North, 304 Camino Alire, 505-988-8011; Payne's South, 715 St Michael's, 505-988-9626; PAYNE'S ORGANIC Soil Yard, 6037 Agua Fria, 505-424-0336; Paynes.com

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ORGANIZATIONS & EDUCATION

Sharrock Furniture Designs

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Smash Bangles

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The Fruit Basket

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Handmade one-of-a-kind pieces. 933 Baca, Santa Fe, 908-500-6392

Museum of New Mexico Foundation

The newest and quirkiest gift shop in Santa Fe. 328 S Guadalupe, Santa Fe, 505-557-6149, smashbangles.com

Philanthropic support for our state's cultural heritage. museumfoundation.org

Bishop's Lodge is a soulful retreat steeped in heritage. 1297 Bishops Lodge, Santa Fe, aubergeresorts.com/bishopslodge

Slow Food is about enjoying food and the community it creates. Intrigued? Learn more at slowfoodsantafe.org.

Heritage Hotels and Resorts

Hotels in Albuquerque, Santa Fe, Taos, and Las Cruces. hhandr.com

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We have a passion for finding the perfect gift. 4022 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-344-1253, sarabandehome.com

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LODGING

Bishop's Lodge

Sarabande Home

Slow Food Santa Fe

The Perfect Gift Shoppe

The perfect place to find something for everyone. 901 Rio Grande NW, Ste D-126, Albuquerque, theperfectgiftshoppe.com

Tin-Nee-Ann Trading Co.

Family operated and family friendly since 1973. 923 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-988-1630, tin-nee-ann-trading-co.myshopify.com

Daisy’s takes a unique approach to Holistic Health.

LAWN SPRINKLER EXPERTS Repairs/Installations Landscape Remodeling Fruit Tree Pruning and Removal

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MARKET PLACE LOCAL FINDS Your support for the advertisers listed here allows us to offer this magazine free of charge to readers.

We offer a wide range of Bulk Herbs, Vitamins, Supplements, and High pH H2O. Daisy’s Holistic Health is locally owned and dedicated to great customer service.

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EAT & DRINK LOCAL GUID E ALBUQUERQUE RESTAURANTS Campo at Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

Rio Grande Valley cuisine rooted in seasonal organic ingredients from our own farm. 4803 Rio Grande NW, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com

113 Washington, 505-988-3030, innoftheanasazi.com

Arable

Inspired by the bounty of New Mexico, and the small community of Eldorado, Arable was born. 7 Avenida Vista Grande, 505-303-3816, arablesantafe.com

Wild Leaven Bakery

Artisan sourdough bread and baked goods using organic, local grains and ingredients. 130 N Guadalupe, wildleavenbakery.com

GREATER NEW MEXICO RESTAURANTS Black Bird Saloon

Cutbow Coffee

Arroyo Vino

Farm & Table

Cafecito

MAS Tapas y Vino

Dolina

Mata G Vegetarian Kitchen

Iconik Coffee Roasters

Charlie's Bakery and Cafe

Loyal Hound

Little Toad Creek Brewery & Distillery

Ohori’s Coffee Roasters

Michael’s Kitchen Restaurant and Bakery

One of the nation's most accomplished artisan coffee roasters, Paul Gallegos. 1208 Rio Grande NW, 505-355-5563, cutbowcoffee.com

We serve progressive American fare inspired by our on-premise garden and local purveyors. 218 Camino La Tierra, 505-983-2100, arroyovino.com

Genuine food and drink, Wild West style. 28 Main St, Los Cerrillos, 505-438-1821, blackbirdsaloon.com

Black Mesa Winery

Black Mesa Winery is an award-winning winery using only New Mexican grapes. 1502 Hwy 68, Velarde, 505-852-2820, blackmesawinery.com

Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm. 8917 Fourth Street NW, 505-503-7124, farmandtablenm.com

Cafecito is a family-owned business blending cultures to bring you a delicious menu in a beautiful gathering space. 922 Shoofly, 505-310-0089, cafecitosantafe.com

Inspired by the bold flavors, rich history, and the exuberance of Spanish cooking. 125 Second Street NW, 505-388-0088, hotelandaluz.com/mas-tapas-y-vino

We serve modern American brunch with Eastern European influences. Closed on Tuesdays. 402 N Guadalupe, 505-982-9394, dolinasantafe.com

Chef and owner Kevin Bladergroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. 221 Hwy 165, Placitas, 505-771-0695, bladesbistro.com

Unmistakably comforting, uncompromisingly fresh, and undeniably delicious. 116 Amherst SE, 505-266-6374, mata-g.com

Amazing food, unique coffees roasted on-site, and superfast high-speed internet. 314 S Guadalupe and 1600 Lena, 505-428-0996, iconikcoffee.com

Charlie’s offers New Mexican cuisine, breakfast, and classic pastries. 715 Douglas Ave, Las Vegas, 505-426-1921, charliesbakeryandcafe.com

Salt and Board

Salt and Board, a charcuterie-based cork and taproom in the heart of the Brick Light District. 115 Harvard SE, 505-219-2001, saltandboard.com

Savoy Bar & Grill

California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Farm-to-table dining and a casual patio. 10601 Montgomery NE, 505-294-9463, savoyabq.com

Sawmill Market

Eclectic collection of bars and eateries, plus an expansive courtyard. 1909 Bellamah NW, sawmillmarket.com

Seasons Rotisserie & Grill

Oak-fired grill, local and seasonal ingredients, and the best patio dining in Old Town. 2031 Mountain NW, 505-766-5100, seasonsabq.com

The Grove Cafe & Market

The Grove features a bustling café experience serving breakfast, brunch, and lunch. 600 Central SE, 505-248-9800, thegrovecafemarket.com

The Shop Breakfast & Lunch

Serving breakfast and lunch Wednesday through Sunday. 2933 Monte Vista NE, 505-433-2795, theshopabq.com

Trifecta Coffee Company

We roast coffee and brew in unique ways. 413 Montaño NE, 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeeco.com

SANTA FE RESTAURANTS Anasazi Restaurant & Bar

Contemporary American cuisine inspired by locally sourced seasonal ingredients.

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

Locally sourced modern comfort food paired with craft beer, cider, and wine. 730 St Michaels, 505-471-0440, loyalhoundpub.com The original source for locally roasted coffee beans, gifts, and gathering. 505 Cerrillos and 1098 St Francis, 505-982-9692, ohoriscoffee.com

Paper Dosa

Bringing fresh, authentic homestyle South Indian dishes to your table. 551 W Cordova, 505-930-5521, paper-dosa.com

Pranzo Italian Grill

Upscale Italian cuisine. 321 Johnson, 505-984-2645, pranzoitaliangrill.com

Radish & Rye

Farm-inspired cuisine: simple yet innovative food and drinks sourced locally whenever possible. 505 Cerrillos, 505-930-5325, radishandrye.com

Rustica

Sophisticated yet casual—Rustica serves fresh, homemade Italian food. 2547 Camino Entrada, 505-780-5279, rusticasantafe.com

TerraCotta

Seasonally changing, globally inspired cuisine and an extensive, value-priced wine list. 304 Johnson, 505-989-1166, terracottawinebistro.com

The Compound Restaurant

Chef Mark Kiffin preserves a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution. 653 Canyon Road, 505-982-4353, compoundrestaurant.com

Blades' Bistro

Taste Southwest New Mexico. 200 N Bullard St, Silver City, 575-956-6144, and 119 N Main St, Las Cruces, 575-556-9934, littletoadcreek.com

Regionally inspired eats with a tongue-incheek menu in a casual space 304-C N Pueblo, Taos, 575-758-4178, michaelskitchen.com

Pajarito Brewpub & Grill

Open for lunch Tuesday–Sunday. Open for dinner every day. 30 craft beers on tap. 614 Trinity Dr, Los Alamos, 505-662-8877, pajaritobrewpubandgrill.com

Pig + Fig

Comfort food for everyone using highquality, ethically sourced, seasonal ingredients. 11 Sherwood Blvd, White Rock, 505-672-2742, pigandfigcafe.com

Revel

Farm-to-table, elevated comfort food, in a fast-casual environment. 304 N Bullard St, Silver City, 575-388-4920, eatdrinkrevel.com

The Skillet

American, Southwest, vegetarian friendly. 619 Twelfth Street, Las Vegas, 505-563-0477, giant-skillet.com

Wild Leaven Bakery

Specializing in long-fermentation artisan sourdough bread and baked goods using organic, local grains and ingredients. 216 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos, wildleavenbakery.com

MARKET PLACE LOCAL FINDS Your support for the advertisers listed here allows us to offer this magazine free of charge to readers.

BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER & BRUNCH (505) 310-0089 | 922 Shoofly St. SF, NM cafecitosantafe.com | @cafecito.santafe

South Indian cuisine

TRIFECTA

Genuine Food & Drink Enchanting, Dusty... Wild West Style

Celebrating 5 Years! 28 MAIN STREET LOS CERRILLOS 505.438.1821 Thursday - Sunday blackbirdsaloon.com

COFFEE COMPANY

Creative Casual Cuisine

Chef and owner Kevin Bladergroen brings together fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Award-winning wine list. 221 Highway 165, Placitas 505-771-0695, www.bladesbistro.com

HighGradeOrganicCBD.com

Wholesale Specialty Cheese/Meats/Provisions 300+ Cheeses from around the World Est. 1984

Barrio Brinery

413 Montano NE, Albuquerque 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeeco.com We roast coffee, and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods, sweet, and savory are made in house.

i TA ex FE z New M

Santa Fe's source for ﬁne fermented foods. Our lacto-fermented pickles, sauerkraut, and escabeche are hand-crafted in small batches. 1413-B West Alameda, Santa Fe www.barriobrinery.com ∙ 505-699-9812

www.b-cow.com · 505-473-7911

LAST BITE

FLYBY PROVISIONS Gina Riccobono is a New Mexican entrepreneur who’s spent years working in organizations (including this publication) dedicated to celebrating local food and agribusiness. With Flyby Provisions, Riccobono is continuing to grow local relationships by partnering with talented artisans, sustainable producers, and small businesses to provide local options for gift giving with her online store. She has also launched a new retail option in downtown Albuquerque. Visit the Flyby Provisions flagship store for thoughtfully selected items that support community businesses. Shop for yourself or find a unique gift for everyone on your list. While you’re discovering new delights, nourish yourself with a healthy juice or snack from their grab-and-go selection of fresh, local foods. Located at 201 Coal SW just a few doors down from Zendo Coffee and Sidetrack Brewing. flybyprovisions.com The Last Bite is brought to you by Rio Grande Credit Union and highlights New Mexico’s food entrepreneurs and small businesses.

Proprietor, Gina Riccobono. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2022

ARROYO VINO Restaurant and Wine Shop

10 Years Serving Santa Fe! 5 : 0 0P M WINE SHOP: TUESDAY–SATURDAY 11AM-–7PM

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