Early Winter 2020: Family by edible New Mexico

edible NEW MEXICO THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON

Family ISSUE 70 · EARLY WINTER NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2020 MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

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radishandrye.com 505.930.5325

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Local Spanish-style tapas restaurant with ﬁne wine and beer. Patio dining with full service!

1025 Lomas Blvd NW, Albuquerque · 505-243-6050 EARLY WINTER: NOVEMBER / DECEMBER DEPARTMENTS 2

GRIST FOR THE MILL By Willy Carleton and Briana Olson

50 COOKING FRESH Traditions

56 FIELD NOTES Scarecrows, Zozobra, and the Refuse of 2020 by Briana Olson

CONTRIBUTORS

SHOP LOCAL GIFT GUIDE

68 SOURCE GUIDE / EAT LOCAL GUIDE

LOCAL HEROES

71 LAST BITE

Indulgence Bakery & Cafe, Pop Fizz, Tumbleroot Brewery and Distillery, Steve Riley

STREET FOOD Vital Ital by Joanna Manganaro Toto

38 44

EDIBLE ARTISAN Sweet Trails by Cristina Carreon

EIGHT AROUND THE STATE Sweets by Stephanie and Walt Cameron

FERMENTI’S PARADOX

AT THE CHEF’S TABLE

ON THE COVER

edible NEW MEXICO

THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON

Pecan Pie Martini and DIY Liqueurs

FEATURES 60 NOURISHING HARVESTS

Kinship & Community by Jaclyn M. Roessel

64 FAMILY ACRES, COMMUNITY ANCHORS

Family ISSUE 70 · EARLY WINTER NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2020 MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

Chile Rojo Con Carne. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

Deep-Rooted, Small Family Farms Provide Many Functions in Times of Crisis by Willy Carleton

Stargazer Kombucha by Robin Babb Angelina’s by Robert Salas

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GRIST FOR THE MILL As the holiday season beckons, we think of family—our roots, traditions, arguments, gifts, collaborations, and the recipes we come back to year after year. This year, perhaps more than ever, we are conscious of the importance of family, its challenges, its beautiful messiness, and, for those of us who live at a distance or must self-isolate for health reasons, its absence. The importance of family extends into the ways we feed ourselves. The kitchen is the locus of many families, a place where we connect over tables, counters, stoves, familiar aromas, and generous platters. Family meals, whether prepared in collaboration over long hours at the stove or ordered out during a pandemic quarantine, give us sustenance during good times and bad. Families are also at the heart of many treasured New Mexico businesses. They can help businesses grow and pass on knowledge of cooking and farming. They also bring a unique character and passion to their work that corporate farms and ghost kitchens will never match. This issue is devoted to the many ways family feeds our local foodshed. We start with Jaclyn Roessel of Grownup Navajo, who writes about the nourishment that comes from family and community, and the responsibility to others central to the Diné concept of kinship. We also look at the challenges faced by family farmers across northern New Mexico in a year when both the pandemic and increasing impacts of climate change have magnified the appeal of rural living and amplified development pressures on New Mexico land. From there, we learn how family has shaped Angelina’s in Española, how native flavors have elevated Stargazer Kombucha, and how an all-vegan menu is bringing global and local together at Ras Rody’s Jamaican Vegan Kitchen in Santa Fe.

PUBLISHERS Bite Size Media, LLC Stephanie and Walt Cameron

EDITORS Willy Carleton and Briana Olson

COPY EDITORS Margaret Marti and Joanna Manganaro Toto

DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron

PHOTO EDITOR Stephanie Cameron

EVENT COORDINATOR Natalie Donnelly

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Cyndi Wood

VIDEO PRODUCER Walt Cameron

SALES AND MARKETING Kate Collins, Melinda Esquibel,

We also explore origin stories, with recipes from three outstanding chefs who evoke their culinary ancestors and field notes from this year’s strange Burning of Zozobra.

and Gina Riccobono

In 2020, even as families have had to gather less often and in smaller groups, many have relied upon and supported one another in new ways. For those with children at home, it has been an opportunity to connect more often, and more deeply, but for many, especially older adults, the pandemic has been profoundly isolating. Along with cooler weather and shorter days, the coming months will offer opportunities to listen and lend a hand to others, whether members of our extended families or of the greater family of our many-faceted New Mexico community. As we go to print, coronavirus cases are rising around the state (and world), and health experts implore families to find creative ways to connect and celebrate safely over the course of the holidays. Though this season will differ from those before, the spirit of family at its center remains ever more vital. With gratitude and safety for the whole of our community foremost in mind, we wish you and your family a healthy, lively, and flavorful season ahead.

SUBSCRIBE ∙ BUY AN AD ∙ LETTERS WWW.EDIBLENM.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at INFO@EDIBLENM.COM Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible New Mexico six times a year. We distribute throughout New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually.

Willy Carleton and Briana Olson, Editors

Printed at Courier Graphics Corporation Phoenix, Arizona No part of this publication may be used with-

Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers

edible New Mexico | EARLY WINTER 2020

experience the essence of true santa fe hospitality Expanded Patio Dining · In-Room Dining · Take-Out Open Daily from 7am to 9pm 113 Washington Avenue | Santa Fe, NM 87501· (505) 988-3030 rosewoodhotels.com For reservations, please call (505) 988-3236

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CONTRIBUTORS ROBIN BABB Robin Babb is a writer and the owner of Harvest Moon Books. She lives in Albuquerque. @harvestmoonbooks STEPHANIE CAMERON Stephanie Cameron was raised in Albuquerque and earned a degree in fine arts at the University of New Mexico. After photographing, testing, and designing a cookbook in 2011, she and her husband Walt began pursuing Edible Communities and they found edible in their backyard. Today Cameron is the art director, head photographer, marketing guru, publisher, and owner of edible New Mexico. WILLY CARLETON Willy Carleton is co-editor of edible New Mexico. He recently completed his PhD in history at the University of New Mexico, with a dissertation examining the cultural history of twentieth-century agriculture in the Southwest. CRISTINA CARREON Texas native Cristina Carreon most recently has covered crime/courts and trending news for the Alamogordo Daily News/USA Today as part of a regional Gannett network in southeast New Mexico. Prior to that, she covered business and education at a sixteen-county regional newspaper in northeast Mississippi. Now Carreon works as a freelance writer in New Mexico and west Texas and enjoys basic pandemic activities like hiking in remote mountains and baking sourdough bread.

BRIANA OLSON Briana Olson is co-editor of edible New Mexico, lead editor for the New Farmer’s Almanac, and a regular contributor to Southwest Contemporary. She enjoys long mountain walks, taking risks in the kitchen, and seeking out new and interesting things to eat, from Bangkok to Albuquerque. JACLYN M. ROESSEL Born and raised on the Navajo Nation, Jaclyn Roessel is the president of Grownup Navajo, a company dedicated to sharing how Indigenous Ways of Knowing can be a catalyst for racial and cultural justice. Her work as a writer/poet and coach is motivated by matriarchs in her ancestry, theories of futurism, and healing justice work. She lives with her husband and son in the Pueblo of Tamaya. ROBERT SALAS Robert Salas is a self-proclaimed foodie and craft beer lover. Since graduating from the University of New Mexico, he’s worked as a multimedia journalist for many online publications in New Mexico and Colorado. He recently won a first-place reporting prize from the New Mexico Press Women’s Association. Salas has worked in the health food industry for five years and he loves to combine his zeal for writing with his passion for tasty food.

JOANNA MANGANARO TOTO Joanna Manganaro Toto is a freelance writer, new mother, and designer of Sonámbulo Jewelry. A native New Mexican, she enjoys scouring estate sales for Southwestern treasures in her spare time. Check out her designs and vintage finds on Instagram at @sonambulojewelry.

We encourage interested writers to apply through our online writer submission form at ediblenm.com/opportunities.

edible New Mexico | EARLY WINTER 2020

Give the Gift of Culture From Native American treasures to space exploration, Hispanic visual arts to the dawn of the dinosaurs, the New Mexico CulturePass is your passport to 15 museums and historic sites.

Find the New Mexico CulturePass at NMculture.org New Mexico Museum of Space History National Hispanic Cultural Center Art Museum New Mexico Museum of Natural History and Science New Mexico Farm & Ranch Heritage Museum Museum of Indian Arts and Culture Museum of International Folk Art New Mexico History Museum New Mexico Museum of Art Coronado Historic Site Fort Selden Historic Site Fort Stanton Historic Site Fort Sumner Historic Site / Bosque Redondo Memorial Jemez Historic Site Lincoln Historic Site Los Luceros Historic Site

Joe Gabaldon, San Pasquale “The Kitchen Saint,” 2012, watercolor on pine with woodburning. NHCC Art Museum Permanent Collection. Gift in Memory of Mary Gabaldon. Photograph by Christopher Roybal.

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Thanksgiving Holidays 2020 Thank you for your overwhelming support this year. We look forward to celebrating 20 years of holiday memories with you. – Chef Kiffin #Compound202020

Christmas Eve

lunch • dinner • bar 3 Course Prix Fixe Menus Featuring Traditional & Non-Traditional Holiday Favorites

Call for reservations as space is extremely limited. CompoundRestaurant.com 505.982.4353

New Year’s Eve

653 Canyon Road Santa Fe

photos: Kitty Leaken

edible New Mexico | EARLY WINTER 2020

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Shop Local

GIFT GUIDE

STOKLI’S MORNING, AFTERNOON & EVENING TEA TRIO

Loose-leaf teas for life in the high desert. $40 Stokli A regional general store for the future. stokli.com

HULME’S LONDON DRY GIN

Hulme’s London Dry Gin is juniper-forward with slight hints of the floral and spicy. Available at the Still Spirits tasting room, Jubilation, Whole Foods, and Total Wine & More. $29 Still Spirits 120 Marble Ave NW, Albuquerque, Facebook @stillspiritsabq

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GIFT IDEAS UNIQUE APPAREL AND GIFTS

Is your babe ALL BAD? Thought so, but if not Metal The Brand has something for you in just about any size! Metal The Brand 2500 Central Ave SW, Albuquerque, metalthebrand.com

VARA SILVERHEAD BRUT CAVA

2020 Sommeliers Choice Awards Gold Medal Winner and 2019 San Francisco International Wine Competition Gold Medal Winner. $18/ bottle Vara Winery & Distillery 315 Alameda NE, Albuquerque, varawines.com

HEIDI’S ORGANIC JAM

Full sampler set combines all five of Heidi's favorite organic jams in their new 3-ounce size or your choice of any three of Heidi’s delicious flavors of raspberry jam in 10-ounce jars. $20–$30 Heidi’s Jam Factory 3427 Vassar NE, Albuquerque, heidisraspberryfarm.com

edible New Mexico | EARLY WINTER 2020

VINTAGE HAND-CARVED ACACIA WOOD ANGELS.

NAVAJO COPPER AND STERLING BRACELETS

Hand-carved angels—putti or putto—can be found throughout Italy hung over doorways as a sign of peaceful protection and calm. $24

Hand-crafted in New Mexico by gifted Navajo silversmiths, our unisex copper and sterling cuffs come in a variety of widths and designs including geometrics, Pueblo scenes, horses, buffalo, and more. $38–$52

KENYAN SOAPSTONE BOWLS Bowls carved from soapstone by Kenyan stone carvers. $15

HAND-PAINTED RETABLOS

Retablos of saints and angels make thoughtful gifts with extra meaning this year. $25

TALAVERA TEQUILA SETS

2020 has been a doozy but we say when life gives you lemons…ask for coarse salt and tequila! Four-piece, hand-painted Talavera tequila sets are ready to ring in 2021 and make a perfect hostess or holiday gift. $22

Gallery Ethnica · 1301 Cerrillos, Santa Fe · 505-557-6654 · galleryethnica.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

TRADITIONAL ACETO BALSAMICO OF MONTICELLO

GIFT IDEAS

America’s only traditional balsamic vinegar, aged 21 years in Italian casks of seven rare woods. Made in New Mexico with estate organic grapes. Stunningly delicious. Prices Vary Old Monticello Organic Farms organicbalsamic.com Also find their products at the 11th annual Monticello Holiday Store in Monticello on December 5–6 and 12–13, 10am–2pm at wholesale prices.

BLACK MESA WINE & HARD CIDER

Award-winning unique wines made from our estate in Velarde. Bite Me Cider is made from all local apples. Black Mesa Winery 1502 Highway 68, Velarde, blackmesawinery.com

9 TO 5 PROVISIONS GIFT BOXES

A thoughtfully curated mix of ethically produced gourmet goods in which local purveyors take center stage. 9 to 5 Provisions 9to5provisions.co

TEA.O.GRAPHY ADVENT CALENDAR

Hand-crafted teas + gifts made with love! Prices Vary. 10% off with code: TEAFORTHEHOLIDAYS tea.o.graphy 125 Kit Carson Road, Taos, tea-o-graphy.com

MIMBREÑO DINNERWARE

Inspired by the pottery art of the ancient Mimbres culture and adapted by Mary Colter, the iconic Mimbreño china pattern is available for purchase at Detours at La Fonda. Detours at La Fonda 100 E San Francisco, Santa Fe lafondasantafe.com/shops/detours-at-la-fonda

FARM FOOD FAVORITES

These handpicked culinary items are our absolute favorite pantry staples from the Los Poblanos Farm Foods collection. A curated selection of signature herb blends, Southwestern spices and flavorful condiments that highlight the unique flavors and culinary culture of our state. Los Poblanos Farm Shop 4803 Rio Grande Blvd NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque farmshop.lospoblanos.com

COFFEE LOVER GIFT BOX SET

The set contains Valle Vidal beans, Cutbow Coffee travel mug and branded mug. Valle Vidal is a delicious blend of three outstanding single-origin coffees roasted to perfection. $60 Cutbow Coffee 1208 Rio Grande Blvd, Albuquerque, cutbowcoffee.com

ONE-OF-A-KIND WOODEN GIFTS

Brighten your kitchen with functional art! These handcrafted cutting boards feature food-safe resin inlays and are the perfect one-of-a-kind gift. Plus they pair perfectly with Herbie, the original wooden herb stripper. $15â&#x20AC;&#x201C;75 TFTWood TFTWood.com

HONEYMOON BREWERY GIFT SET

A unique gift set of handcrafted hard kombucha from Honeymoon Brewery, made right in the heart of Santa Fe. Set includes four bottles of kombucha, two upcycled glasses made from repurposed bottles handcrafted by Broken Arrow Glass, two vinyl decals, and four Honeymoon Coasters. Hard kombucha is made with organic sugars and teas, cold-pressed juices from Terra Verde Organic juices, has 5% ABV and is 100% gluten free. $52 Honeymoon Brewery 907 W Alameda, Santa Fe, honeymoonbrewery.com

ADD SOME

ALTITUDE. Elevate your next wine pairing with LE GRUYÈRE® AOP, made for over 900 years from the purest cow’s milk in the Swiss Alps. Gruyère AOP’s nutty complexity sings with Chardonnay, boosts a Beaujolais, and perfects a Pinot Noir. For more information and some great recipes and pairing ideas, visit us at gruyere.com.

Switzerland. Naturally.

Cheeses from Switzerland. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM www.cheesesfromswitzerland.com

GIFT IDEAS

EDIBLE RISTRAS FROM HATCH

One- to four-foot available. Chile Pequin Wreaths also available. $15 per foot Tin-Nee-Ann Trading Co. 923 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-988-1630 tin-nee-ann-trading-co.myshopify.com

PECANS FOR THE HOLIDAYS

The holidays call for fresh and sweet organic pecans for festive dishes and everyday meals. Organic halves and pieces are available in 5-pound and 25-pound packages. Del Valle Pecans 575-524-1867, delvallepecans.com

ESPRESSO-GROUND ROOIBOS TEA Four blends. 2oz & 8oz sizes. Sold as individual teas and sets. Prices vary. Finches finchescafe.com

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LOCAL HEROES

Indulgence Bakery & Cafe AN INTERVIEW WITH MEAGAN HIGGINS AND MARYBETH HIGGINS BEST CAFE, SOUTHERN NEW MEXICO Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Left: Carrot cake—layers of spiced carrot cake with pecans and cream cheese frosting. Right: Marybeth Higgins and Meagan Higgins.

Indulgence is a family-owned and -operated bakery and café where everything is made from scratch with love, passion, and creativity. It serves breakfast, lunch, and a rotating variety of pastries, Stuftcakes (jumbo stuffed cupcakes), cakes, cheesecakes, cream puffs, and other sweet treats. The café rotates its bakery flavors seasonally. How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? 16

edible New Mexico | EARLY WINTER 2020

(Marybeth): I fell into the restaurant industry at a young age. I was a single mom who needed a job. Over the years, I developed a strong passion for food, but most importantly, I fell in love with the familial environment that a good restaurant crew provides. I found my people and my purpose. I’m completely self-taught and I am still constantly learning and still passionate about what I do. (Meagan): My mom opened her first restaurant (Sweet Indulgence) in 1997 when I was eleven. I remember feeling so excited to have

Amazing coffee, incredible food.

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1600 Lena St. & 314 S. Guadalupe St. in beautiful Santa Fe

Pre-order food and coffee for take-out or dine-in @ Iconikcoffee.com Free parking everywhere

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this new little space, bustling with activity and creativity, that felt like home. It felt magical at such a young age to have the freedom to be a part of something so special. I remember running around that tiny restaurant, helping fill cream puffs, and probably getting in the way more often than not, but it was my first taste of feeling proud of something that felt like it was ours. Watching my mom teach herself the baking skills she was passionate about and turn her dreams into a reality was hugely inspiring for me. What has been the most popular item on the menu in 2020? How have you kept up your spirits, and your business? The most popular items this year have definitely been our line of Stuftcakes. They are jumbo filled cupcakes that we do in all different flavors. They are so fun because each one is like having your own personal cake. One of our favorite flavors right now is our Pecan Pie Stuftcake, a jumbo vanilla cupcake packed full of pecan pie filling (made with local New Mexico pecans, of course) and topped with a light and fluffy maple whipped cream. Also, our cream puffs are always a huge seller. As far as keeping up our spirits and our business during this crazy year, it has truly been a challenge. We have an absolutely incredible and loving clientele that has been so supportive. When we first shifted to curbside-only in March, they were there. When we opened back up for takeout and limited dine-in service, they continued to show their support, following all the new rules and being generally wonderful. We are also lucky to work with an incredible crew made up of both biological and restaurant family. However, it would feel somewhat inauthentic not to mention how hard it has been to always stay positive. I (Meagan) have struggled with more anxiety and depression than I have ever previously dealt with, and I think that so many people are dealing with the same issues. I think it is important to mention those struggles in an attempt to normalize them and let people know that they are not alone in how they are feeling as we all collectively deal with this whole new world that we are currently living in. How has working as a family shaped the bakery and cafe? (Marybeth): Working with family provides a sense of stability. My son, Jeremy, is our chef, my granddaughter, Katie (his daughter), works up front, and we are here together day in and day out. We all show up every day and do our jobs to the best of our abilities with a sense of pride and familial effort. We are incredibly invested, and we all care so much about making the business the best it can be. Family is always willing to put in the extra time and do whatever it takes to see you through the toughest of times. When we had to close our dining room due to COVID, Jeremy got to work building us these adorable outdoor tables and putting plexiglass up inside for when we were able to reopen. It’s not always easy working with your whole family, but at the end of the day you know they always have your back, and that is a good feeling. Also, buying wine by the case makes working with family much more manageable. What is the best part about running a bakery and café in Las Cruces? How has the food scene in Las Cruces changed over the years? 18

edible New Mexico | EARLY WINTER 2020

We have such a great customer base, as well as great relationships with other local business owners. Over the years, Las Cruces has developed a stronger loyalty to local businesses and to shopping and eating at locally run establishments. It has been great to see so many new businesses pop up and to see the community be so receptive to them. We have customers who have followed us through all of our restaurants, people that have become like family to us. It is so rewarding to have people come in and tell you that they were eating cream puffs for lunch in 1998, and now they are bringing their kids in or having us make their wedding desserts. It comes full circle, and that community that has developed through the years is the best part. There are many large nearby farms throughout the Mesilla Valley, but much of the agricultural production is geared toward export out of state. Does this present a challenge for sourcing local ingredients? Definitely. We try to use as many local ingredients as possible, getting our pecans in town from local farms, using New Mexico beef, and of course, our delicious Hatch green chile, but being able to reliably source other produce locally can be tough. We would love to see more of a partnership between local farms and local restaurants, and it is certainly something that we continue to research. It is our hope that we will be able to source even more of our ingredients from local farms in the future. What’s a local food issue that’s important to you? Why? For us, it is really important to support our local food economy. As a family-owned restaurant, we appreciate all the support we receive, and in turn, we put our money back into the community by supporting other local businesses. We think that the more we can build each other up, the more we will all succeed. We eat at other local restaurants, we support the local co-op, and we stop by local farm stands. Rather than viewing other local businesses as competitors, we like to think of us all as a community working towards a common goal of putting local first in Las Cruces. We also donate to the yearly fundraisers for the El Caldito Soup Kitchen and the La Casa Women’s Shelter. Support local businesses in as many ways as possible is always our motto. Is there anything else you’d like to share with edible readers? We just want to give a shoutout to our incredible crew. They work so hard and have handled the ever-changing craziness of this year with an amazing willingness to adapt and go with the punches. Our kitchen crew works hard to make sure that our food menu is delicious and consistent, making every batch of sauce from scratch, roasting all of our meats, preparing each dish with care and expertise. Our front of the house crew is as friendly and genuine as they come. They love our customers and make sure that every single person who comes in feels welcome and cared for. Our bakery team is magical, and they are always coming up with new ideas and flavors. We are truly so lucky to work with such an amazing group of people and we couldn’t do it without them. 2265 S Main Street, Las Cruces, 575-523-1572 indulgencebakerycafe.com

1301 Cerrillos Rd ■ Santa Fe, NM 87505 ■ (505) 557-6654 ■ www.galleryethnica.com

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LOCAL HEROES

Pop Fizz

AN INTERVIEW WITH RAFAEL ALVAREZ BEST FOOD SHOP Photos by Stacey M. Adams

Enjoying paletas at Pop Fizz’s food truck, which can be found at the Open Spaces at Alameda and Rio Grande in Albuquerque on the weekends.

Pop Fizz is a Mexican-style paleteria with an American soda fountain twist. Rafael, Carlos, and Lorenzo Alvarez cofounded Pop Fizz to bring the most delightful desserts of their childhood to Albuquerque. As kids living in El Paso and often visiting the Mexican city of Juárez, brothers Carlos and Lorenzo would visit paleterias with their father, Rafael, and paletas easily went down as their favorite summertime treat. Pop Fizz has grown from its humble beginnings to offer organic and unique flavored paletas, ice cream tacos, and tasty eats like carne asada fries at its Albuquerque storefronts and food trucks. How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? I helped my brother-in-law with his furniture manufacturing facility in 20

edible New Mexico | EARLY WINTER 2020

Chihuahua City, Mexico, where we made high-end custom furniture for the locals from 1980 to 1984. From there, we opened a furniture store in Santa Fe, New Mexico. In 1988, production was moved back to El Paso/Ciudad Juárez. The competition from China became very tough, and we closed the furniture and accessory factory around the year 2000. After that, I went back to graduate school at NMSU and got my degree in education. I have worked in Title I schools as a dual language teacher for the last twenty years and am still teaching with Albuquerque Public Schools. My two sons and I decided to open an ice cream shop offering all natural paletas. From 2013 to the present, my sons have made the business grow by leaps and bounds, thanks to their vision and extremely high work ethic.

StAy At ThE InN With luxurious organic bedding, signature lavender spa amenities, generous hospitality and plenty of fresh air, you’re bound to feel relaxed and refreshed as this little farm offers a true escape.

DiNe WiTh Us

A ReLaXiNg EsCaPe. A CuLiNaRy DeLiGhT. A StOnE’S ThRoW AwAy. In 1999, Los Poblanos began its small lavender farm on the former private property of Ruth and Albert Simms. It naturally grew into a bed and breakfast shortly thereafter, and has continued to blossom into what is now a breath-taking, serene getaway that includes 50 tranquil hotel rooms. Add to this the award-winning, ﬁeld-to-fork restaurant, Campo, a retail space full of artisanal products, an expansive organic lavender farm with a signature lavender apothecary line, and 25 acres of lush formal gardens and stunning historic architecture. With a New Mexico Safe Certiﬁcation and a well-being hospitality model that focuses on safety, health and comfort, Los Poblanos is the perfect local destination to take a break from a stressful year.

Located on an organic farm in the Rio Grande River Valley, Campo is a casual ﬁne-dining experience featuring the most purely crafted ﬁeld-to-fork menu in the Southwest. Experience the artistry of the talented kitchen with breakfast, lunch, dinner, bar and room service, and relax knowing all the details have been taken care of including socially distanced tables set with signature Lavender Hand Sanitizer Spray.

ShOp ThE FaRm A beautiful retail space inside the renovated, historic dairy barns, the Farm Shop offers an array of artisan products ranging from the lavender apothecary line and signature Farm Foods line to Native American jewelry, local ceramics, books and housewares. This holiday season, peruse the reimagined Los Poblanos gift collections that are beautifully packaged and ready to gift, right off the shelf.

lospoblanos.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Rafael Alvarez with the Pop Fizz food truck.

What has been the best-selling paleta of 2020? How have you kept up your spirits and your business?

What are some of the new flavors that you’re making or thinking of making, and when will we be able to try them?

There actually are a cluster of best-selling paletas for this year, which have been the favorites for the past few years: jamaica (hibiscus) raspberry, mango red chile, coconut, and Mexican chocolate, among other specialty flavors such as pistachio, dulce de leche, cafe con leche, and blueberry creamsicle.

We have been making a series of creamsicles, such as blueberry, vanilla, sour cherry creamsicle, pistachio, pecan, and Keto pops.

I personally have kept my spirits high and with hope for a better future through positive thinking and with the help of prayer. We keep on being busy with the few members of our personnel, as if we haven’t missed a beat. Thank God we have our food trucks going around to different invited venues and at the Open Spaces at Alameda and Rio Grande on the weekends. We also are very lucky to have a drivethrough window at our North Valley location, which we keep open from Wednesday to Sunday, 12 noon to 6 p.m. Have you ever done a Hot Cheeto paleta? What’s the craziest flavor you’ve come up with? Well, the craziest flavor to come out of our wholesale facility is the pickle paleta, a favorite among a certain age group. And our kombucha mixed berries paleta. I am currently working on a New Mexico version of the California UFO [unidentified frozen object] with biscochito cookies and all natural ice cream. These UFOs are ice cream sandwiches using only New Mexico products. They will be called New Mexico Biscochito Lunar Pies. 22

edible New Mexico | EARLY WINTER 2020

Describe the perfect vacation (or the perfect day off work and school). A cool place in the Colorado or New Mexico mountains with the family, without a cell phone, and with plenty of water, fruits, and snacks. What’s a local food issue that’s important to you? Why? What concerns me is the amount of family-owned businesses that have had to shut their doors due to the pandemic. This is truly a sad situation and of deep concern. How can kids educate their parents on the importance of eating more paletas? For one, the “kids” have to tell their parents about the importance of consuming local New Mexico True products made of 100% all natural fruits and flavors using only organic sugar. They should also tell their parents to buy locally made New Mexico True family-owned products. Is there anything else you’d like to share with edible readers? New Mexico, especially Albuquerque, has been a phenomenal place to do business, thanks to the brand loyalty and friendly nature of our admirable customer base. 6770 4th Street NW, Albuquerque, popfizzabq.com

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LOCAL HEROES

Tumbleroot Brewery and Distillery AN INTERVIEW WITH JASON KIRKMAN, COFOUNDER BEST BEVERAGE ARTISAN, SPIRITS Photos by Stacey M. Adams

Left to right: Michael Chavez, assistant brewer, and Jason Kirkman, cofounder of Tumbleroot Brewery and Distillery.

Jason Fitzpatrick and Jason Kirkman, cofounders, opened Tumbleroot in 2018. They had been developing the business, looking for a perfect space, and making some products during the two years prior. They wanted to open a community-oriented taproom that made all of its beer and spirits from scratch. Their main taproom is the old Club Alegria in Santa Fe, where they have hosted many musical acts and community events. Tumbleroot also self-distributes its beer and spirits throughout the state. Recently, they purchased a canning line and are canning three from-scratch cocktails. Next, Tumbleroot will be canning a Japanese-style rice lager and a hazy IPA, two beer styles that they love.

I was a biochemistry major, and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always loved to cook. In college, I translated that passion and knowledge to homebrewing. My first job out of college was brewing at a small brewpub in the mid-1990s. I spent many years as a teacher, but continued to brew at home and follow changing brewing trends and techniques. When I decided to open my own place, I honed my chops by brewing at Bathtub Row Co-op up in Los Alamos and also did some work with Broken Trail in Albuquerque. I met my business partner, Jason Fitzpatrick, at Bathtub Row. He was their first general manager and also had experience at Marble Brewery. We were a good team, so we decided to build Tumbleroot together.

How did you get to where you are now? Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work?

How has travel influenced your brewing and distilling and the ethos behind it?

edible New Mexico | EARLY WINTER 2020

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Left to right: Tumbleroot’s Botanical Gin; Angela Kirkman foraging juniper berries; wild-harvested juniper berries.

Travel has been a significant influence on my life and in my practice and sensibilities as a brewer and distiller. My family and I took a twoyear trip around the world where we focused on learning regional specialties and cooking with the people we met. We did try many different brews, wines, and spirits, but learning about the ways that folks from around the world use different ingredients to achieve different flavor profiles was probably the thing that has most influenced my craft. Among distillers, organic and local sourcing are still fairly rare. What has influenced your decisions to use organic and local ingredients? We only use organic ingredients in our distillation process. These ingredients are generally higher quality and are more environmentally sustainable, which is one of our core principals. The fact that distillation tends to concentrate certain compounds makes me feel that these ingredients are potentially much safer. Local sourcing is extremely important to us. We try to grow as many connections with local businesses as possible. We love Santa Fe and want to see it flourish. And we use seasonal, garden-grown, and wild-harvested ingredients to make our products distinctive of this place. More than other spirits, gin seems to involve a bit of alchemy. How do you achieve the perfect floral balance? What is quintessential to a London dry? We have changed the name of our London dry gin to High Desert Gin. It was just too different from most London drys, though it and our Botanical Gin have become our most popular spirits. We actually began the process of developing our gins by doing single ingredient distillations, then blending to come up with the flavor profiles we were searching for. Those are really fun experiments. The Botanical Gin is very floral, and the High Desert Gin was inspired by 26

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a Thai pomelo salad. We also make a Navy Strength Gin which uses a lot of warm spices and spends some time in a barrel. You don’t filter your vodkas. Why not? Our main vodka is a sugarcane vodka. We buy organic evaporated cane juice and ferment with a rum yeast in-house, then distill it to above 190 proof. It is very clean and very smooth, and the flavors are subtle, but we don’t want to eliminate or diminish (through filtration) the distinctive flavors that come from the sugarcane and the fermentation. I’ve heard it described as crème brûlée: caramel and banana. But it is a vodka, and those flavors are subtle. How much hand sanitizer have you produced this year? What else has changed in response to the pandemic? How have you fared? We’ve produced over five thousand gallons of hand sanitizer. Since our prices are pretty competitive and we’ve established a lot of relationships with local organizations, we still continue to produce and sell, though the demand has shrunk quite a bit in the past couple of months. Since our taprooms were closed, we threw all of our energy into packaging and distribution. We purchased a small counter pressure canning line and have been making a lot of canned cocktails in response to the demand. Our patio opened a month ago. People have told us that we have the best anti-COVID practices they have seen, which feels good. And it’s a comfortable and purpose-built patio space, which we are lucky to have. We are hanging in there. What cocktail will you be drinking this holiday season? A negroni made with our Navy Strength Gin. 32 Bisbee Court and 2797 Agua Fria, Santa Fe, tumblerootbreweryanddistillery.com

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In 2010, he and Chef Bell opened Mama Terano in Palos Verdes. He returned home in 2017 with a desire to contribute to New Mexico’s growing culinary scene. He joined Farm & Table in 2019. How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? It has been a long and wonderful journey—from my hometown of Albuquerque to Los Angeles and back to Albuquerque—to be where I am today. Finding a place that closely aligns with my own beliefs of supporting local businesses and building community was what brought me to Farm & Table, where I am very grateful to be a part of such a wonderful team of professionals. How have your experiences outside of New Mexico shaped your culinary approach? Los Angeles opened the culinary world to me and showed me the importance of fresh, quality local ingredients. Working with Robert Bell at Chez Melange really taught me to keep things simple and to let Mother Nature shine though. What is your favorite ingredient to work with? Cooking with the seasons is my favorite way to create. One ingredient in particular that shines in all seasons is corn. With its never-ending possibilities of flavors and textures, it is truly an amazing ingredient in every season. What inspires you these days? How have you managed to keep your spirits up in 2020? Yes, 2020 sure has been quite the roller coaster for everyone, especially for us in the service industry. Honestly, I am very grateful for the people that surround me on a daily basis. Whether at work or at home, their everlasting positivity keeps me moving forward every day. What do you think the biggest lessons from 2020 might be for local chefs going forward?

Chef Steve Riley was introduced to the world of fine cooking by acclaimed Chef Jennifer James, working alongside her at Le Café Miche, Graze, and Jennifer James Contemporary Cuisine. In 2004, he embarked on a thirteen-year career in Southern California, beginning at Chez Mélange where he worked with executive chef Robert Bell. 28

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A big lesson I know I have learned this year is how to be flexible and pivot to the needs of the moment. I have also seen just how strong our team is at dealing with such uncertainty and the ability to stay positive during these trying times. What’s a local food issue that’s important to you? Why? A local food issue that’s important to me is the commitment, or lack thereof, by many in the food industry to truly source local. Sadly, the status quo for most restaurants and hotels is to purchase the cheapest

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ingredients, often pre-cut, pre-prepared, and pre-packaged, leaving behind a systematic lack of love, care, and attention to making food. When we are making food from scratch with local ingredients, we are making better food. It supports our local economy while raising the bar for the food industry in our state. Eat local, shop local, and use local purveyors for locally made artisan products, meat, cheese, produce, dairy, condiments, and whatever else you can. This is the clearest way to send a strong message about the importance of local food. 30

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What do you like to eat on a day off? Barbecue! The slow, long cook of barbecue is a great change of pace on my days off. Or going on an adventure to find what other great chefs are creating in New Mexico. Is there anything else youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to share with edible readers? Thank you to everyone who voted. 8917 4th Street NW, Albuquerque, farmandtablenm.com

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Vital Ital RAS RODY BRINGS FARM-FRESH VEGAN JAMAICAN CUISINE TO SANTA FE By Joanna Manganaro Toto · Photos by Douglas Merriam

Ras Rody on his food truck, Ras Rody’s Jamaican Vegan Kitchen in Santa Fe.

When I lived in New York City in my twenties, I had an unlikely friendship that revolved around vegan food. It began while we were both working on a runway show in the pressure cooker environment that is New York Fashion Week. While my job entailed crawling around on the floor putting shoes on models and racing down city streets with awkward parcels of clothing clutched in my sweaty arms, hers involved wearing designer heels, clattering away on her laptop, and flattering Very Important Fashion People into submission, which made her a VIFP, as well, by association. I’m still not totally sure why she chose to spend some very rare moments of free time with a scrubby underling like me, but I appreciated her insight and generosity, and I loved hearing all of the fashion 32

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gossip. We took to getting together every few months at the Greenwich Village location of Souen, a vegan macrobiotic restaurant that had gained a reputation for catering to fussy VIFPs, neurotic wellness junkies, people with food allergies (perceived and actual), or, as in my friend’s case, some combination of the three. Over unseasoned steamed vegetables, rice, and legumes, I basked in the glamorous glow of my fine-boned, Swiss-educated friend’s attention. Looking back, the food could not have been all that great—one of the “dressings” they offered was just smashed up carrots in water, I’m fairly sure—but I genuinely liked it. There was a sense of beauty in the austerity. When I peered into the takeout box holding a combo plate from Ras Rody’s Jamaican Vegan Kitchen food truck in Santa Fe earlier this

fall, I had a flashback to those dinners at Souen and thought, Got it. I know what to expect from this food. I could not have been more wrong. All the same elements were present—steamed vegetables, rice, legumes—but Ras Rody’s food delivered a wallop of flavor. His vegetable blend was made vibrant and exotic with the inclusion of jackfruit, and a turmeric and coconut milk sauce provided a slightly sweet balance to the other savory components: squash, peppers, and potatoes. The black beans and chickpeas— tender, earthy, and seasoned to perfection—made an exquisite complement. Rounding out the combo plate were nutty, shortgrain white rice and soy crumbles that resembled ground beef. Crunchy cabbage slaw, a corn fritter, and a single slice of plantain served as textural garnishes. On the side was the polar opposite of watery carrot “dressing,” a Jamaican jerk sauce with heat that caused me to jolt at first bite. The combo plate, along with the soup, smoothie, and juice on Ras Rody’s small menu, changes frequently in order to showcase seasonal ingredients from the garden that springs up improbably along the border of the gravel lot where Ras Rody’s food truck is parked. When I ordered the banana, papaya, and kale smoothie, I watched Ras Rody saunter over to his garden, cut the kale, and bring it back to toss in the blender. It doesn’t get much more farm-fresh than that. Ras Rody, a wiry father of nine, who was raised in the rural Westmoreland Parish of Jamaica, had a path to veganism that was different than most. When he was a child, he suffered a kidney malady that put him in the hospital for an extended period of time. His doctors determined that the cause of his condition was the consumption of too much meat and greasy foods. They forced him to fast for two months, and when they allowed him to eat again, they served him a plate of simply cooked vegetables. Later in life, as he was becoming close with the predominantly vegan Rastafarian community, Ras Rody recalled those weeks in the hospital when he found himself unable to eat meat. He ultimately chose to take up veganism himself and devoted himself to Rastafarianism. Ras Rody explains the challenges that his lifestyle presented at that point. He says, “I had to develop food for myself because Jamaicans like fried foods—they like jerk chicken; they like meat. So, when I made the decision to be Rastafarian and to eat vegan food—we call it Ital food in Rastafarian—it was a struggle. Thirty years ago, nobody understood that kind of food. You couldn’t go anywhere and find anything to eat. Many days, you’d have to wait until you got home before you could eat. In comparison to today, you can find food everywhere. Those days, you had to be hardcore, man. You had to make it for yourself and have the discipline to keep doing it.” Ras Rody realized he had a knack for cooking vegan food when even meat-eaters began clamoring for the dishes he would make, so he decided to try making a living from it. He set up his first food stand, Ras Rody’s Organics, on the street near a luxury hotel in Jamaica, much to the chagrin of the wealthy hotel owner. When hotel guests eventually began flocking to his stand, the hotel owner

Left to right, clockwise: Ital veggie stew and corn from Ras Rody’s garden; Michelle Wurth, Ras Rody, and their son Benge; kale grown in Ras Rody’s garden; banana pancakes; combo plate with jackfruit stew, curried garbanzo beans, black beans, and banana pancakes.

apologized for his initial poor treatment of Ras Rody and insisted that his business was an asset to the hotel. Over the years, adventure and curiosity brought Ras Rody to the United States to visit, but love brought him to stay. He has lived with his wife, Michelle Wurth, in Albuquerque, Rhode Island, and Florida, sharing his vegan food and organic vegetables along the way. Just before the pandemic broke out earlier this year, Ras Rody, Wurth, and their son, 34

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Benge, made their home together in Santa Fe and set up a food truck to showcase Ras Rody’s cooking. Though it’s undoubtedly challenging to launch a new business during such a strange time, Ras Rody maintains an infectious sense of optimism. Of his happy customers’ response to his food, Ras Rody says, “It’s very encouraging.” 1312 Agua Fria St., Santa Fe, 505-385-3011, rasrody.com

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EDIBLE ARTISAN

Sweet Trails

LAS CRUCES COOKIES CELEBRATE NEW MEXICAN CULTURE By Cristina Carreon

Custom chile and turquoise painted sugar cookies. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

Sitting at a friend’s kitchen counter with a view of the Organ Mountains through the windows and a box full of buttery, sugar-coated biscochos laced with anise waiting to be tasted, Milagros Guillen talked about her life, which led her from music to cowboy culture to baking. The classically trained violinist began making her unique sugar cookie creations two and a half years ago after delving into cake decorating and discovering a natural talent for dessert art. “I get a lot of my inspiration from the architecture of New Mexico, or even pottery, buildings, stones. A lot of it comes from rodeo,” Guillen said, explaining the influences behind her intricately painted cookies. “I do a lot of stuff like chaps and boots, and I also love fashion, so I follow a lot of fashion pages in the Western industry.” 38

edible New Mexico | EARLY WINTER 2020

Guillen’s husband, Daniel Castro, is a cowboy who comes from a long line of charros, and the couple own the Lienzo Charro El Pedregal ranch south of Las Cruces. Castro performs regular specialty acts at rodeos across the South, the Southwest, and in Mexico. Guillen said her travels with her husband on the rodeo circuit have provided inspiration for her Western-themed designs. “I also grew up a country girl, hunting and fishing and just being outdoors, so I kind of incorporate that into my work as well,” Guillen said. “I have everything that I need here.” At home, with her infant daughter sleeping nearby, she dreams up ways to make more realistic interpretations of White Buffalo stone and clay, making a few sketches before sending her ideas off

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beginning in her teens, she began to focus on decorating her cakes. After high school, she took cake decorating classes and researched decorating videos on YouTube in her free time. She also continued with her music, playing mariachi music and performing on the fiddle with The Yarbrough Band, a Las Cruces–based western group, for four years. While playing music, she worked full-time as an orthodontic assistant, quitting after her second child was born to start her own business. “I had my daughter last year, and I thought, while I was on maternity leave, I could really focus on cookies and baking,” Guillen said. She has since focused on raising her young children, concocting new cookie designs, and teaching violin lessons on the side. On social media, Guillen has reached new clients and shared her work on Instagram and Facebook. She also uses her platform for activism, advocating on behalf of victims of child trafficking. “I look at my kids and see how happy they are, and it makes me so sad to think about kids who don’t have that. They are not with their families. They are with strangers, and who knows what they do with them,” Guillen said. After receiving support from people across the globe, Guillen decided to host a raffle using social media to benefit Operation Underground Railroad. Several businesses have made donations or offered store credit at their businesses in support. By early September, the raffle pot was valued at roughly three thousand dollars. Guillen said other cookiers have offered to help, with one offering to create a special cookie cutter with sales benefiting the organization.

Milagros Guillen of Sweet Trails. Photo by Pips Ink.

to a friend who makes her specialty cookie cutters. Textures, such as leather or frills, also challenge Guillen to create more realistic pieces, and she enjoys replicating turquoise—matrices and webbing and all—for her hand-painted cookie designs. To decorate, she uses edible food paint and spray, and some designs can take up to forty minutes per cookie. “I see a piece of jewelry, and I think. ‘I can make it into a cookie,’” said Guillen. “The first design I made using cardstock, but now I have somebody who makes my cutters for me, and I go to her with the most random designs.” Sitting at the table with a sketch and a hand-made cookie cutter is the pivotal moment when her dreams become reality, and the time-consuming task of painting, which can often take hours at a time, begins. Guillen initially made her creations for friends and family only. Growing up, her mother taught her how to bake Mexican desserts that were as traditional as they were unadorned. “I always had an interest in baking and cooking. My mom taught me traditional baking, like biscochos, empanadas, pan dulce, and flan. My mom was never artsy with it. It was just very traditional and home-baked, and as I got older, I started to get into baking cakes,” she said. Guillen has continued the family tradition of baking desserts like tres leches. But 40

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Currently, Guillen advertises and takes commissions for her cookies on social media, although she is building a website for an online store. She offers cookies flavored with Heath bars, chile, pecan, and seasonal flavors, like pumpkin spice, sourcing chili powder from Kit Carson Farms and pecans from Farm & Fiddle. Guillen offers presales a month in advance for holidays such as Halloween, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. Guillen has learned to think on her feet, sometimes creating designs based on specific elements her clients ask for. Recently, a photographer reached out to Guillen about a styled elopement and sent her a dark mood board with skeletons, roses, and a “’Til Death Do Us Part” theme. For an upcoming commission, Guillen will make cookies with realistic insect designs. Although it is the early days for her business, Guillen said she would like to partner with local retail businesses to sell her cookies in stores. She dreams of transforming an old horse trailer into a mobile bakery she can set up to sell her wares at fairs or farmers markets. She also hopes to teach her four-year-old son how to bake. “My son likes to go out and ride horses with his dad, but then he can come in, and he knows how to make cookies,” Guillen said with a smile, adding she hopes her daughter will be interested when she gets a little older. “It’s good for them to learn,” she said. Instagram @sweet.trails and Facebook @sweettrails1

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EIGHT AROUND THE STATE

Sweets

By Stephanie and Walt Cameron Publishers Stephanie and Walt Cameron share some of their favorite finds around New Mexico, as they search the state for the best eats and drinks. Maybe it’s the holidays, or perhaps it’s the pandemic, but there is nothing quite as comforting as sweets. From beanto-bar chocolate to scratch cookies and buttery pastries to unique boba teas, we have your sweet tooth covered in this edible New Mexico edition of “Eight Around the State.”

Albuquerque CRAVIN’ COOKIES . . . AND MORE! What we are eating: Chocolate chip, apricot walnut oatmeal, molasses, pumpkin spice, lemon shortbread, and red chile chocolate cookies Worth noting: Cravin’ Cookies has been in operation for twenty years. Using original recipes and ones handed down for generations, B arb Hively creates all her cookies and desserts from scratch. She emphasizes local ingredients whenever possible and is always looking for pairing suggestions for her cookies. Currently, orders can be placed online or picked up in the shop. Find: 10420 4th Street NW, cravincookiesandmore.com

Las Cruces HELLO CAKERY & MACARONS What we are eating: Pistachio, chocolate with coffee Swiss meringue, almond with Earl Grey meringue, churro, mango, and confetti cakesicles Worth noting: One look at their Instagram account, and you will want to order one of their cakes or macaron centerpieces for your next celebration. When we made our online order, cakesicles were the specialty of the week. Hello Cakery & Macarons rotates seasonal offerings along with their weekly macaron selections. Although not available during the pandemic, they also offer macaron cooking classes. Find: Order online at hellocakeryandmacarons.com for pickup in Las Cruces. 42

edible New Mexico | EARLY WINTER 2020

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Chama WILDER BAKESHOP What we are eating: Bostock—a thick slice of housemade bread, dipped in rosewater syrup, spread with French almond creme, sprinkled with sliced almonds, and baked until crisp on the edges but still soft in the middle Worth noting: Seasonality inspires the sweet and savory pastries. Taking their cues from what they can source locally, organically, and sustainably, Wilder Bakeshop offers galettes, mini pies, croissants, quiches, and more. Find: 2248 South Hwy 17, wilderbakeshop.com

Taos CHOKOLÀ BEAN TO BAR What we are eating: Tanzania Kokoa Kamili 75 percent single-origin bar Worth noting: Debi Vincent and Javier Abad opened their craft chocolaterie in 2017 just off the Taos Plaza in an attempt to change the way people make and consume chocolate. They make single-origin chocolate bars, truffles, and specialty mousses. All of Chokolà’s chocolate bars come wrapped with art made by local artists; our brightly flavored bar was wrapped in artwork by Jolene Nenibah Yazzie. Find: 100 Juan Largo Lane, chokolabeantobar.com

Santa Fe CHAINÉ GOURMET COOKIES What we are eating: Macaron assortment with churro, pistachio, and strawberry rosé macarons Worth noting: Chainé Peña has created a magical and whimsical space on Water Street in Santa Fe. When you step inside, you feel like you have been teleported to a scene from Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. Pink and muted pastel-painted walls and décor mimic the macarons that are Chainé’s specialty. Macaron flavors change with the seasons, and other unique items sprinkle the menu. Order online for Saturday pick up from 12–3 pm. Find: 131 Water Street, chainescookies.com

Silver City REVEL What we are eating: Flourless chocolate torte with vegan strawberry ice cream Worth noting: Revel offers from-scratch comfort food with an emphasis on seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. Although lunch and dinner are the main events, with craft pizzas, seasonal pasta dishes, and more, dessert is worth the trip. Desserts rotate daily, so ask your server what’s on the sweet side for the day. Find: 304 N Bullard Street, eatdrinkrevel.com

Gallup CHA’AHH! MILK TEA CAFÉ AND FILIPINO MARKET What we are eating: Taro Royale milk tea, Buko Pandan milk tea, and passion fruit tea Worth noting: Their milk teas come in various flavors, like Hokkaido (hint of caramel), Buko Pandan (hint of coconut and pandan leaf), and the bright purple Taro Royale, all with add-ons like boba, coffee jelly, chia seed, and cheese foam. They offer fruit teas and smoothies in unusual flavors like chai, avocado, red bean, and piña colada. The market has an assortment of staples and treats from the Philippines. Find: 221 W Historic Highway 66, chaahh.square.site

Albuquerque ELDORA CHOCOLATE What we are eating: Mole Mole SuperFood Creamer with Eldora Hot Chocolate Worth noting: In addition to chocolate truffles and singleorigin bars, Eldora offers energy bars and superfood creamers. Their delicious and unique superfood creamers are a great addition to any hot drink, including hot chocolate, mocha, or coffee. Packed full of flavor and coconut milk, these creamers use all-natural ingredients to get your day started right. Find: 8114 Edith NE and the Sawmill Market, eldorachocolate.com

FERMENTI’S PARADOX

Stargazer Kombucha FOUNDER ALISON SCHMITT TALKS ABOUT THE VERY HARD YEAR FOR SMALL FOOD BUSINESSES—AND HER OPTIMISM FOR THE FUTURE By Robin Babb · Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Tie guan yin (oolong) and assam (black tea) kombucha.

This season’s Downtown Growers’ Market in Albuquerque was very different from last year’s. When Alison Schmitt, the founder and owner of Stargazer Kombucha, handed me a cup of her cota kombucha, it had a solid plastic lid on top. Because of the COVID-19 pandemic, nobody was allowed to eat or drink at the market; you had to take your treats off-site to enjoy them. While I understand the regulations and am grateful that the market happened at all, it was certainly a different experience from the communal, bustling market that I’ve gone to in the past. For Schmitt— and countless other small food business owners—the regulations around in-person gatherings and the reduced budgets all around have put a serious damper on business. 46

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“I was handing out business cards and hustling for new accounts up to a week before everything shut down,” Schmitt said of Stargazer, which only launched in July 2019. While she thought she’d be focusing on getting accounts with grocery stores and breweries looking to offer a non-alcoholic option, she instead had to pivot to online sales and local delivery. “That’s something I probably wouldn’t have given much thought to if it weren’t for the pandemic, honestly.” But after spending years gearing up to open her own kombucha business, Schmitt wasn’t going to let one rocky season slow her momentum. Although Stargazer is young, Schmitt has been home brewing kombucha on her own since 2010. Not long after she started, she Frank Holloway, co-owner of Hollow Spirits.

found a job with a commercial kombucha maker in London, where she was living at the time. For years after, she worked for several different commercial kombucha makers, both in the UK and the States, mostly in a marketing capacity. “But since two of [the businesses] were startups, I ended up wearing a lot of hats. So I really learned every aspect of the business, aside from the brewing on a commercial level. Then I reached a point that a lot of folks who run small businesses reach, which is asking myself, ‘Why am I doing this for somebody else?’” Schmitt and her husband chose New Mexico as the ideal place to start their business, in part because the local market wasn’t overly saturated in terms of kombucha makers, and in part because of the landscape and the affordability. They moved to Albuquerque in 2017, and Schmitt set to work immediately. “I spent about eighteen months developing my product, market testing. I took it to a lot of local business owners. I had coffee shop people taste it. I got really great feedback and narrowed down to three different tea varieties.” Those three varieties became Stargazer’s signature flavors: assam (black tea), tie guan yin (oolong), and cota (Navajo tea). Although she has stuck with these three until now, Schmitt expects she will add a new flavor or two in 2021. Unfortunately, finding a space to actually make her kombucha at scale was a little more difficult. The Albuquerque Health Department has particular rules about fermentation that prohibit it from being done in shared kitchen spaces, so she wasn’t able to use valuable resources like the Mixing Bowl at the South Valley Economic Development Center or Three Sisters Kitchen. After spending many months looking for a private space to rent in and around Albuquerque, she wasn’t having any luck. Finally, she found an affordable spot at a shared kitchen space in Santa Fe—where health department rules about fermentation are a little more lenient—and took it. Stargazer approaches kombucha with a stripped-down style. For each of Schmitt’s kombuchas, the only ingredients are filtered water, raw cane sugar, loose leaf tea, and kombucha culture. The minimalist recipes are a refreshing response to the recent proliferation of “everything but the kitchen sink” kombuchas, which blend in juice, herbs, vinegar, and other ingredients, sometimes making overpowering flavors. By contrast, Schmitt’s kombuchas are mild and pleasant, highlighting the flavors of the teas she selected specifically for their ability to stand on their own. But it took a whole process for Schmitt to land on the stripped-down approach. “Originally, my plan was to make these incredibly ambitious, weird, and bizarre flavors—like green chile kombucha! And I started playing around with things like that, and, to be honest, I didn’t like any of the things I came up with. But as I was trying all these different teas to create different bases, I got all these really cool single origin teas, and, in the end, I realized that I just really liked the pure flavor of these teas rather than anything I was trying to add to them.”

Alison Schmitt of Stargazer Kombucha.

“We’re the only ones making cota kombucha to my knowledge. It’s our best seller, and it grows right here in New Mexico,” Schmitt said. “We buy our cota from the Rio Grande Herb Company, and they buy directly from pickers and wildcrafters in the Pueblos.” The little yellow flower, also called Navajo tea, has a subtle goldenrod color when made into kombucha, and a mild, floral flavor that’s similar to chamomile. “I challenge anyone who says they don’t like kombucha to try our cota,” she said. Despite the difficult economic terrain of this year, Schmitt is optimistic about the future of Stargazer. “I get so much positive feedback about the products,” she said, adding, “There’s actually a surge in demand for kombucha and fresh pressed juices and ‘immunity boosting’ foods during the pandemic. For those brands that have grocery store outlets, this was a good year for them.” In fact, Schmitt is looking for a larger space in Santa Fe to expand Stargazer’s production and hopes to go after some of the brewery and coffee shop accounts that didn’t pan out this year. stargazerkombucha.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

AT THE CHEF’S TABLE

Angelina’s

A FAMILY LEGACY AND PIECE OF NEW MEXICO HISTORY By Robert Salas

Lamb chops with red chile and beans. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

Angelina’s, inconspicuously tucked off Fairview Lane in Española, has a rich history of family ties and community love. The locally beloved eatery was established thirty-six years ago when New Mexico native and visionary Fidel Gutierrez took over the existing restaurant, then owned by state senator of Rio Arriba County, Emilio Naranjo. Gutierrez, wanting to create something special that would solidify his family legacy in New Mexico, named the new restaurant after his wife, Angelina Gutierrez. The family business today is a community staple. Fast forward to 2001: Fidel’s son, Zev Gutierrez, began his journey toward becoming the head of the family business. Zev gained valuable culinary experience by running his own restaurant and studying under classically trained chefs throughout the state. He became the executive chef of the Artesian Restaurant at Ojo Caliente, but eventually returned to Española to help his father run Angelina’s. 48

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“My relationship with my father was definitely centered around the restaurant. We spent most of our time here growing up,” he said. “I started bussing tables when I was twelve. It runs in my blood, and now my daughter, nephews and nieces, and wife are key players in the running of Angelina’s.” Zev explained that he’s proud of his now nineteen-year-old daughter, Cassandra Dauz, for her zeal for business and her strong work ethic. However, Cassandra’s aspirations lie elsewhere. She hopes to attend college in the years to come and has the full support of her family. “I just want them to get something good out of working here,” Zev said. “I want them to know the importance of hard work and to know that they can get valuable experience here. Even if it is just a stepping stone to something greater.”

Left: Cassandra Dauz, Lourdes Dominguez, Veronica Gutierrez, and Zev Gutierrez. Photo by Alexander Almanza. Right: Green chile rellenos. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

The menu at Angelina’s resembles what you might find in your abuela’s recipe box. Their New Mexican red chile caribe, ground from pods that have a deep scarlet hue and smokey taste, is featured in dishes such as flautas, enchiladas, tacos, nachos, and burritos. Zev said the red chile is sourced primarily from southern New Mexico with a small percentage coming from the northern Rio Grande Valley, specifically Velarde. He says all the chile is tied and dried in the northern New Mexican sun. “How you serve your chile really identifies what part of New Mexico you’re from,” he said. “The further north you go in New Mexico, the more meat you’ll see in the red chile. Our table chile is served with small chunks of pork. But we do offer a vegan option that is essentially a red chile sauce.” Many of the restaurant’s staple dishes include regionally sourced lamb, including their lamb chops, lamb burritos, lamb fajitas, and a specialty dish, lamb costillas (ribs). “Lamb is actually a traditional northern New Mexican food. We’ve become known for serving lamb to blue-collar diners whereas lamb in other places is considered a luxury dish,” Zev said. Served with a side of their smokey red chile, the crispy costillas share a similar texture profile to traditional chicharrones with a succulent touch of juicy rib meat. “The thing about domestic lamb is that they’re grain fed at the end of their life, and that’s very important for the palate of this area. It tastes and feels much different from an Australian or New Zealand lamb,” Zev said. After many years of experimenting with different sources, Zev chose to source his lamb from Greeley, Colorado, because it was the most economically feasible choice, keeping prices low.

In the kitchen at Angelina’s you’ll find veteran head cook Lourdes Dominguez, aka “Mama Lou.” Dominguez has been cooking traditional New Mexican dishes at Angelina’s for more than thirty years and says she puts the same love into the dishes today that she did when she started. “I love cooking food for the families of our community and upholding the traditions that we’ve worked so hard to establish,” she said. Mama Lou’s right-hand man is cook Dioncio Santos Medina, a man of few words. He keeps his head down, focused on every detail of each dish he prepares. His stoic demeanor sets the tone in the kitchen as the other cooks are diligently prepping ingredients and frying fresh sopapillas. The COVID-19 pandemic hit the restaurant industry hard and has forced many to adopt new practices to stay in business. Angelina’s is no exception. However, Zev says it has been an opportunity to innovate his business model. “COVID has been a bringer of progress for us,” he said. “Invention and innovation come from necessity. We’ve seen a lot of new opportunities with carryout that we hadn’t really tapped before.” Community support and pride are what keep the wheels turning at Angelina’s. Zev says keeping a consistent presence and upholding excellent standards is what he wants to exemplify through Angelina’s.“ We aren’t trying to change the world here, but when we do something, we want to do it well. I think the locals feel proud to see a family-owned operation that can hold its own in a market of franchise restaurants.” As a staple of northern New Mexico cuisine built on generations of knowhow, Angelina’s more than holds its own. 1226 North Railroad Ave, Española, 505-753-8543 WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Chile Rojo Con Carne

Bรกnh Chฦฐng

edible New Mexico | FALL 2020

COOKING FRESH

Traditions Photos by Stephanie Cameron For this Family issue, we reached out to a handful of local chefs, asking them to share a traditional recipe and the story behind it. From around the globe, these New Mexico chefs share their recipes and stories that have been passed down from generation to generation.

Chile Rojo Con Carne By Marie Yniguez Red chile and meat is my favorite holiday dish because at every family gathering, someone makes this. It was always on the stove at Grandma’s and still is at my mom’s whenever we visit. When we’re hungry, we grab a bowl of this chile and meat and some slices of cheese, and eat.

Serves 4–6 1 1/2 pounds pork, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1/2 tablespoon flour 8 ounces of whole red chile pods, seeded and stemmed 4 cups warm water 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon granulated garlic 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

This dish is “home” in New Mexico for me. It just makes you feel warm inside. There is no better gravy than New Mexico red chile. Everyone uses the same ingredients, but it comes out tasting different. No two chiles are alike.

Place chile pods in a large bowl; cover with warm water and soak until soft but not falling apart. Transfer to a blender, reserving some of the water to use as needed. Add only enough water to be able to get a smooth puree. While chile pods are soaking, heat a large skillet; add vegetable oil. Over medium heat, add cubed pork and cook until browned. Sprinkle pork with flour and cook an additional 3 minutes. Add the blended red chile sauce, salt, garlic, and oregano to pork; stir. Cover; cook pork on low heat until tender, about 1 1/2 hours. Season to taste. Serve with fresh tortillas.

About Marie Yniguez Chef Marie Yniguez was born in Albuquerque and raised in both Hurley and Albuquerque. Chef and owner of Slow Roasted Bocadillos in Albuquerque, she is a New Mexican with deep roots and a huge heart for her community. She shows her gratitude by participating in local fundraising events and through food donations and sponsorships. She is family-oriented and shares her stories and more on her Con Familia Facebook page.

Chef Marie has appeared on many Food Network shows, exhibiting her New Mexican cooking and her ability to stay calm and creative no matter what life throws her way. She has developed a variety of cooking styles in her life, but what keeps people returning to Slow Roasted is Chef Marie’s flair for flavor and commitment to sourcing local, quality ingredients. bocadillos505.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Bánh Chưng (Rice Cake) By Hue-Chan Karels The Importance of Bánh Chưng to the Vietnamese People Bánh chưng or chưng cake is a traditional Vietnamese rice cake made from simple local ingredients such as glutinous rice, mung beans, and pork, wrapped in banana leaves and boiled or steamed. It is an irreplaceable, must-have food item to celebrate Tết Nguyên Đán, the Vietnamese Lunar New Year (known simply as “Tết”), which means “Feast of the First Morning of the First Day of Spring.” Banh chưng is served with pickled onions or vegetables and savory fish, pork, or beef. The making and eating of bánh chưng during Tết is a well-preserved tradition of the Vietnamese people. Legend attributes the creation of bánh chưng to Lang Liêu, a prince of the Sixth Hùng Dynasty over three and a half millennia ago. It was said that in choosing a successor, the monarch decided to carry out a competition in which each of his sons would bring a delicacy paying homage to the ancestors on the occasion of the Tết holiday. Whoever could introduce the most delicious dish for the altar would become the country’s next ruler. While other princes tried to find rare and delicious foods from the forest and sea, the eighteenth prince, Lang Liêu, who was the poorest son of the Hùng king, could not afford such luxurious dishes and had to be content with everyday ingredients, such as rice 52

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and pork. From these simple ingredients, he created one cake in the square form of earth, called bánh chưng, and one in the round form of sky called gánh giầy. In tasting the dishes offered by his son, the Hùng king found bánh chưng and bánh giầy not only delicious but also a fine representation of the respect for ancestors. Therefore, he decided to cede the throne to Lang Liêu and proclaimed bánh chưng and bánh giầy traditional foods during Tết. The Making of Bánh Chưng—A Labor of Love and Tradition Making bánh chưng reflects the essence of slow food and requires the contribution of several people. The main ingredients are glutinous rice, pork meat, and mung beans, which are wrapped together in banana leaves that give the rice a green color after boiling. The glutinous rice must be soaked in water overnight, then assembled with the other ingredients, wrapped in square shapes, and boiled for many hours over a wood fire. The process of making and eating banh chưng is an opportunity for family and friends to come together during Tết. Here, I am providing an adaptation of the traditional recipe, mainly adjusting the size of the cakes. Traditionally, these cakes are 8-inch squares each weighing 3 to 4 pounds! These smaller cakes can be easily made and cooked by steaming rather than boiling.

BÁNH CHƯNG Makes 14 3-inch cakes 2 cups dried split mung beans, washed and soaked in water 4 hours or overnight 5 1/2 cups glutinous or sweet rice (“sticky rice”), washed and soaked in water 4 hours or overnight 1 pound pork butt/shoulder or belly or combination, cut into 1/2-inch slices 1/3 cup shallots, minced 3 cloves of garlic, minced 1 1/2 tablespoons Vietnamese fish sauce, adjust to taste 2 teaspoons ground black pepper, adjust to taste 2 1/2 tablespoons salt, adjust to taste 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 pound fresh or frozen banana leaves (defrosted) Kitchen twine Place mung beans in a pot filled with just enough water to cover. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then reduce to a simmer and cook, occasionally stirring, until very tender, about 30–45 minutes. Drain, then put in a food processor with 1 1/2 tablespoons salt and 1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil; pulse until beans are mashed and all ingredients are well combined. Set aside. Drain and season the soaked sticky rice with 1 tablespoon salt. Season the pork with fish sauce, 2 teaspoons pepper, garlic and shallots; marinate in the refrigerator for 3 hours or overnight. Heat remaining oil in a frying pan over moderate heat. Add pork pieces and all the marinade; stir just until the meat is brown around the edges, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove pan from heat and set aside.

To reduce cooking time, use a 3-inch x 3-inch mold. For a traditional, family-size cake, use a 6-inch x 6-inch mold. To start, soften the banana leaves by wilting in single layers in a 200°F oven for 5-10 minutes. Then, cut and line the molds with 2 to 3 pieces of banana leaves, making sure that the edges are padded to avoid any spillage or leakage. The dark side of the leaves should face inside the mold (this will tint the rice a light green color), leaving enough banana leaf to cover the cake. Make 1/3- to 1/2-inch layer of sticky rice, spreading it up the sides of the mold. Add about 2 tablespoons of mung bean paste, spreading it to cover the sticky rice layer. Add another 1/3- to 1/2-inch layer of sticky rice to the sides, then place a layer of pork and another layer of mung bean paste. Make sure all the sides are covered with sticky rice. Lay the final layer of sticky rice on top and press everything down tightly. Bringing all the sides of the banana leaves together, remove the entire mixture from mold and wrap. Then coat the entire cake with another piece of banana leaf, the dark and shiny side on the outside. Tie with twine, loosely enough to allow the rice to expand, but not too tightly. In a steamer, steam on low to medium heat for 2 hours (for 3-inch x 3-inch cakes). Turn the cakes half-way through and check the water in the steamer. Remove from heat, and set aside to cool for 1 hour. To serve, cut the cake diagonally from corner to corner (without unwrapping). Once cut, remove wrapping and arrange slices on a serving plate. Serve warm or at room temperature. If wrapped in plastic and refrigerated, the cake will keep up to 1 week.

About Hue-Chan Karels Hue-Chan Karels is chef-owner of Open Kitchen, a unique culinary concept that celebrates the kitchen as the center of sensory pleasure, healthy living, community, learning, and creativity. Hue-Chan’s passion for the culinary arts is only surpassed by her desire to bring people together through shared food experiences. She loves to share her knowledge and recipes and to foster enjoyment for cooking and creating healthy, delicious meals at home.

Open Kitchen to Santa Fe. Today, Open Kitchen has been

Launched in 2009, Open Kitchen’s multipurpose space was hailed as one of the best new eateries in the Washington, DC metro area, featuring a farm-to-table bistro, private event space, cooking school, and commercial kitchen

refugees in the aftermath of the Vietnam war. She endeavors

rental facility. In 2014, Hue-Chan and her husband brought

reimagined to offer inspired culinary events and services including interactive dining experiences, creative food and drink pairing events, hands-on specialty cooking experiences, retreats, and a healthy chef-prepared meal delivery service. Born in Da Nang, the largest city in central Vietnam, HueChan and her family settled in the United States in 1975 as to deepen understanding of Vietnam’s unique cultural identity, beliefs, and histories as she shares recipes and stories that bring Vietnamese food to life. openkitchenevents.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Lemon Pistachio Torte Sans Rival By Grace Lapsys Sans rival means “without rival” or “unrivaled” in French. Where I grew up in the Philippines, having this cake would signify a milestone in one’s life: a birthday, anniversary, or a special holiday. Growing up, I have to admit we would buy this from Red Ribbon bakery, a Filipino standard. At the time, we would save up our money for this cake—it was a status symbol. Traditionally, the cake is layers of cashew dacquoise (a nut meringue) and vanilla buttercream frosting generously sprinkled with ground toasted cashew nuts on the outside. It’s

said the method for dacquoise was brought home by Filipinos who studied in France in the 1920s and ‘30s. They adapted the traditional French dacquoise to make use of abundant local cashews, and so invented the sans rival. When I became a pastry chef, I, of course, had to make my version, one that could rival the “without rival.” My sans rival layers pistachio dacquoise and a lemon white chocolate mousse that pays homage to my memories, but with a tart twist to freshen up traditionally heavy holiday servings.

About Grace Lapsys Grace Lapsys is a pastry chef, entrepreneur, and mother to two teenagers. Before becoming a pastry chef, she owned Joliesse Chocolates, a gourmet chocolate lounge and dessert café in Albuquerque, for six years. When not in the kitchen, she enjoys backpacking, camping, and acting. She is an independent producer and actress represented by Mitchell 54

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Talent & Associates. Currently, Grace is working on a gourmet drinking chocolate line based on her former shop’s bestsellers and has launched a clothing line for baking and chocolate lovers. Check out her latest sweet creations on Instagram @chocolartista @glapsys.

LEMON PISTACHIO TORTE SANS RIVAL Cream Filling 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon heavy cream, cold 2/3 cup confectioner’s sugar 1 tablespoon vanilla paste or extract 1 packet unflavored gelatin 1/4 cup water 7 ounces plain yogurt 6 ounces light sour cream Dacquoise 2 cups roasted pistachios, meats only 1 cup cane sugar 3 tablespoons potato starch 10 large egg whites, room temperature 1/4 cup confectioners’ sugar Lemon Chocolate Mousse 3/4 teaspoon unflavored gelatin 1 tablespoon water 3 1/2 tablespoons milk 2 egg yolks 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar 5 ounces white chocolate, callets or chips 3/4 cups heavy cream 1–2 drops lemon essential oil or 1–2 teaspoons lemon extract, to taste

ture, adding little by little so as not to deflate the dacquoise. Transfer mixture onto prepared half sheet pan. Use an offset spatula to spread evenly. Bake for 20 minutes or until golden brown; it is ready when a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool before cutting. Assemble the Cake Invert dacquoise onto a cutting board and gently remove the parchment paper. Cut in half lengthwise. Cut each piece in half again lengthwise to make four long equal parts. Spread 1/3 of the cream filling onto one of the cut layers. Cover the filling with a second layer of dacquoise. Spread another 1/3 of the cream filling on top of the second layer. Cover the filling with a third layer of dacquoise. Spread the remaining 1/3 of the filling on top of the third layer. Place the last cut layer on top of the filling. Chill in the refrigerator. Note: If preparing ahead of time, wrap in plastic wrap or parchment paper and freeze. Lemon Chocolate Mousse Cover gelatin with 1 tablespoon of water, allowing it to bloom. Set aside. Meanwhile, whisk egg yolks with sugar until combined and light in color.

Cream Filling Prepare the gelatin by placing the packet with 4 tablespoons of water in a small microwave-safe bowl. Let stand until thick, 3–5 minutes. Heat gelatin in the microwave for about 5 seconds. Keep heating in 5-second increments until the gelatin is liquid.

In a small saucepan, heat milk and bloomed gelatin until it just comes to a boil. The gelatin should be dissolved at this point. Pour half of the milk into egg and sugar mixture; whisk together. Pour milk, egg, and sugar mixture into the remaining milk in saucepan. Cook on low heat until mixture thickens and holds shape on the back of a spoon.

Meanwhile, in a stand mixer, whisk heavy cream, sugar, and vanilla on low until combined. Once gelatin is melted, increase speed on mixer to high, beating the cream mixture until soft peaks form. Add liquid gelatin to cream mixture in a constant, thin stream while mixer is beating. Continue whisking cream mixture until stiff peaks emerge, about 2–3 minutes. Add yogurt and sour cream and whisk again to combine. Cover and place mixture in fridge until ready to use.

Meanwhile, beat heavy cream to stiff peaks.

Dacquoise Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a half sheet pan with parchment paper. Using a blender or food processor, grind the pistachios, sugar, and potato starch. Pulse to create fine crumbs, about 15–20 seconds, depending on the power of your machine; be careful not to turn it into a nut paste. Set aside. Using a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, whisk egg whites until foamy. Slowly add confectioners' sugar to create stiff peaks. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold nut mixture into egg mix-

Place chocolate in medium-sized mixing bowl. Using a strainer, pour milk mixture over chocolate, and mix until incorporated. Microwave 10–15 seconds at a time if white chocolate is still solid. Add extract or essential oil. (Lemon zest will do, as well. Add lemon zest to the cream the night before and then strain before using.) Allow to cool to room temperature. Fold heavy cream into chocolate mixture. Final Assembly Remove chilled cake, trim as desired, and frost with the chocolate mousse, covering entire cake evenly. Freeze and garnish with sliced, twisted lemons and crushed pistachios. Each component can be prepared ahead of time and assembled on the day of the family event or celebration. The chocolate mousse can be a stand-alone dessert, placed in small dessert cups or goblets garnished with nut brittles or pralines. I’ve made this with wild orange essential oil, served in a dessert glass layered with crushed hazelnut brittle with a candied orange on top. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

FIELD NOTES

Scarecrows, Zozobra, and the Refuse of 2020 By Briana Olson Â· Photos by Stephanie Cameron

edible New Mexico | EARLY WINTER 2020

In 1928, four years after the first burning of Zozobra, an American anthropologist observed “a peculiar scarecrow” crafted from camel vertebrae in a field south of Baghdad. He was there to collect grain samples excavated from the ancient city of Kish. Locals, he wrote, insisted that this at-once familiar and unfamiliar object increased yield not only by keeping birds away but through its magical properties. This was eleven years before the release of the Wizard of Oz, and the scarecrow had not yet acquired his dopey, cutesy status in popular culture. Small farms still dominated the American landscape, the scarecrow was—like the red-mouthed Zozobra—typically humanoid, and his purpose was ostensibly to frighten. As any shit-splattered owl decoy can testify, birds are smart; they tend to disregard stationary, lifeless objects. In a survey of contemporary Polish farmers on why fewer and fewer scarecrows are used in the fields, one common answer was that they simply don’t work. (Another was the overall decrease in farming, due in part to the fragmentation of farmland.) Today’s tools include reflectors, digital distress calls, firearms, and drones like the RoBird, a robotic peregrine falcon that could serve as an antagonist in a Black Mirror episode. For an industrial farmer, the humble scarecrow might seem a symbolic, antiquated solution. The same might be said of the annual ritual of burning a giant ogre-puppet in Santa Fe’s Fort Marcy Park. “I remember that Yaqui Village out of Tucson,” artist Will Shuster told an interviewer in 1964 about the event that most influenced his creation of Zozobra. “They carry a—of course, this came up from Mexico—a figure, it’s just like a scarecrow actually, stuffed with straw and fireworks and it represents Judas. They put him on a burro and lead him around the stations of the cross and then bring him back to the center of the plaza and ignite him.” A tradition that passed from small-town Spain to Mexico, the Burning of Judas traditionally took place the day before Easter. The ritual burning was punishment for Judas’s supposed betrayal of Jesus. More broadly, Judas represented evil—doubt and disloyalty. From the start, Shuster and his Anglo collaborators recast the tradition as pagan, stripping any reference to the Catholic tradition, including the word evil itself. It’s a long wait for those of us lucky enough to be present, In Real Life, at this year’s burning. The vast green lawn is mostly empty. No birds alight on Old Man Gloom, but at intervals a drone dances around him, zipping in and out like an irritating fly, capturing close-ups of his coronavirus crown and mad hornet cuff links for online viewing. The event is like a dress rehearsal crossed with the thing itself: there are starts and stops, mic checks, dancers in fringe practicing on the sidelines. Against this quiet backdrop, I’m surprised by my shock when the lights go out at last. The puppet’s head, lit from within, is demonic. The torch bearers file out onto the platform, sinister and serious as they light boxes of something like grass, organic debris, as if to evoke the cathartic burning of the refuse of the

season. Yet their performance unsettles me, the torches calling to mind medieval executions, women accused of witchcraft, twentieth-century lynchings. Are they striking at darkness, or reenacting it? El quema de Judas, as practiced in Mexico, is no longer the show Shuster witnessed a century ago. Even in the nineteenth century, Mexicans used the event for political commentary often enough that governors banned representation of specific classes or individuals—and sometimes the burning itself. Over the course of the twentieth century, the tradition evolved to center the folk art of cartonería; the latest revival in Mexico City celebrates the preservation of this papier-maché sculpture-making. Disney figures, celebrities, el charro, and other loved—if contradictory—figures have joined the cast of los judas crafted by amateurs as well as professionals. Still, the devil and maligned figures (President Trump and his wall, for instance) predominate. In the 1990s, Mexican philosopher Eli Bartra wrote that death, “the ultimate traitor,” had long been a popular figure among los judas. She noted the tradition’s presumed pre-Christian roots, its link to ancient rites of purification by fire. As Shuster said, “this idea of destroying some unpleasant thing is . . . very, very old.” Shuster said his buddy Dana Johnson dug up the name zozobra from a Spanish dictionary. Technically, the word translates as insecurity or anxiety—the latter a condition that afflicted approximately forty million Americans even before the arrival of COVID-19. Farmers in particular have suffered from growing anxiety. With the consolidation of farmland over the past forty years, along with constant pressure to increase production and a precipitous rise in the cost of inputs, the risk of coming to ruin has long replaced starvation as the farmer’s most pervasive source of anxiety. Maybe the invented quality of Zozobra, right down to his name, is part of his charm, and his endurance. Burning glooms sounds more profound than burning worries, and more plausible than burning away anxieties, whether collective or singular. This year’s Zozobra wears red ping-pong balls in his silver hair, representing the spikes the virus uses to bind to human cells. The murder hornet cuff links speak as much to a widespread sense of disorder as to climate change and the plight of honeybees. Neither of these artistic flourishes is visible as he looms above the fire dancer, moaning like an old man. Hers is an impassioned, dangerous act, and she’s skilled and pleasing to watch. Yet I become briefly bored. The groaning is all too human, and I’m like the kid who sees through the magician’s tricks, the scarecrow nudging Dorothy to turn her attention to the man behind the curtain. Then a fire blows out the side of Old Man Gloom’s mouth. His face is in flames. His body begins to go; his pointer finger shoots sparks. I’m exhilarated when his frame becomes visible within his burning limbs. The whole right side of his body blows off in a sheet of ash, tiny fragments of wood and paper that resemble burnt grass, flickering in the firelight. The frame falls, the groaning stops, the faces of people I’ve lost pass through my mind. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Finally, nothing is left of him but a burning woodpile, a gravesite. Documentation of the practice is limited, but many say that farmers used to burn their scarecrows after the harvest. Perhaps they were burning their “glooms,” celebrating relief at the success of the crops. Perhaps, by burning straw men in time with the seasons, they were confronting their own mortality. The ancient Greeks carved wooden statues of Priapus, protector of wheat and vineyards, to use in their fields, suggesting that the scarecrow’s mystical function is not such an oddity. Maybe, too, the scarecrow 58

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décor that springs up during fall, from the smiling scarecrow dolls hung from front doors and fences to the eerie scarecrows of the haunted house, are not simply vestiges of the agrarian past, but protectors, markers of the cycle of life—urgent and ephemeral. As for the supposed inefficiency of scarecrows, it’s worth remembering that birds, too, play more than one role on a farm. As much as birds may flock to apples and corn, they also devour cutworms, aphids, and locusts. For centuries, farmers have recognized avian diversity as a sign of farm health.

WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Nourishing Harvests KINSHIP & COMMUNITY By Jaclyn M. Roessel

Cornfield at Jemez Pueblo. Photo courtesy of Pueblo Action Alliance.

edible New Mexico | EARLY WINTER 2020

n late summer, I received a call I had been waiting on ever since the birth of my niece. My brother had connected to share the news that she had started her first moon cycle. He shared the details of the preparations his wife and he were making to hold her Kinaaldá, our Diné puberty ceremony. I listened intently, elated this was to take place. This four-day ceremony would be welcoming my dear niece into womanhood, and she would be working hard following protocols as she prepared to make one of the most important cakes of her life. As I said goodnight, I had the sobering realization that we were still in a pandemic, and I might not be able to offer my prayers in person.

Since time immemorial, Indigenous communities have held the importance of relationality, kinship, and community. Relationality is to each other as humans, but, equally important, to the world around us. One of the common misconceptions about Indigenous communities is that in precolonial times we were siloed peoples. The reality is that we have always been in connection and communication with each other. From Chaco Canyon, the sacred home of the ancestral Puebloan peoples, extend trade routes still visible in aerial photos all the way to what is known today as Mexico. Evidence of this connectivity can be seen in corn impressed in the sandstone at the site as well as macaw parrot feathers found in the structures. Our intertribal relationships have sustained our traditions and innovations. Today, connectivity to one another is central to many of the ways our communities are coping with the pandemic and building community power. There are various words in Indigenous languages that help impart this ideology. In Lakota, the poignant phrase Mitakuye Oyasin means “all my relations.” Mandan, Hidatsa, Arikara, and Lokata artist Cannupa Hanska Luger says, “Language was developed by relationship. It is me and air, me and the tree that is closest to me.” Luger and I connect over the phone, and as I listen to him expand, this cosmological view is clear: “Kinship and relationship is what most of the universe is made out of.” Luger’s multidisciplinary work spans space and time. His artistry is about connection: connection to the customary practices of Indigenous peoples, connection to the cosmos, and connection to the futurity of Indigenous survival and creative resilience. When we look at hardship and triumphs that have occurred across history, there is a common theme of coming together through a shared relationship. At times, this was because of the need to protect community and mobilize action. Relationality and kinship in Indigenous communities form our strength, nourishment, and sustenance. The late Skokomish teacher Bruce Miller would talk of the wisdom of his community of “Tree People” and the way each individual helped cultivate wisdom and medicine to help the collective move toward health and growth. It was understood that every individual was given different knowledge because otherwise there would not be a reason to need each other. K’é is a Diné philosophy which instructs us that because we are Bilá ashląądíí, Five-Fingered People, we are related to each other—and ac-

countable to one another. This philosophy of K’é mirrors the teachings of Black scholar Kimberlé Crenshaw’s term, intersectionality. Intersectionality recognizes that an individual’s social and political identities (their race, ability, sexuality, and gender) form a unique experience of the world, and the privilege and discrimination we face in the world. Collectively, these principles can help us connect to our sacred responsibility to each other. They can also help us find nourishment in a global moment when we are being asked to rise to the challenge of sacrificing our access to the medicine of good company, belly laughs with friends, hugs that hold us, and shoulders to cry on. “While there is high stress during these times, there has also been beauty in witnessing collective community care. It has been the PEOPLE who have shown up by bringing forth what community defense can look like,” says Reyes Devore, community program director for the Pueblo Action Alliance (PAA) and a member of the Pueblo of Jemez. PAA is an organization that promotes cultural sustainability and community defense by addressing environmental and social impacts in Indigenous communities. Devore explains, “As a Pueblo-centric organization, who recognize our roles as descendants, we consider this as lifework to protect generations of peoples and traditional knowledge in our respective communities.” PAA shifted swiftly to providing mutual aid in the wake of COVID19’s arrival in Pueblo homelands. The organization is a partner with Seeding Sovereignty in the Indigenous Impact Community Care Initiative. As part of this work, there has been tremendous support and allyship that has helped create support for our community members through the delivery of PPE and food care packages. When I ask Devore how the concept of kinship relates to her work, she says, “I am more comfortable with using ‘communal sense of care’ or ‘being in community.’ I share this with no disrespect intended for the people and communities who uplift kinship, but in Jemez that particular word isn’t used often. . . . What I do find most nourishing in being with community and family is the great gratitude that sweeps through me when I am home in Jemez. It comes through the most when I am with my family, in ceremony, or with the land.” While the physical isolation of the pandemic has been a tremendous challenge, this feeling of connectedness has been shared through Indigenous interwebs, providing respite for many. For Indigenous peoples, there are numerous posts on social media imparting reverence, rekindling relationships to their ancestral homelands, too. From hikes to planting gardens to prayers at sunrise, the power of place radiates from the posts. As Luger imparts, the images of people reconnecting and being in the natural world are powerful to take in, even on social media channels. Seeing this “is evidence of a collective reckoning with the toxicity of our current models, as they weren’t designed sustainably.” The pivot toward nature signals individuals share in social media feeds illustrates other possible ways we can be in relation with the world around us. A socially engaged artist, Luger has adjusted his artistic practice to this time of sheltering at home. He now holds “footwear optional” artist talks on Zoom. “The way we have to engage with each other now is WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

(Be)Longing, Cannupa Hanska Luger, 2019. Ceramic, steel, ribbon, fiber. Photo by Kate Russell Photography.

more ethereal,” Luger says. In his view, the technology is helping us become “social engineers building bridges between each other”—and in the process creating new relationships.

torical farce pervade fall decorations, from Pilgrim hats to the turkeys made from the cutouts of fingers that cover fridges and dining tables. And yet, at its core, the season is about the act of “giving thanks.”

When our ancestors spoke our languages into existence, there was no need for words like Zoom or computer. The ingenuity to transmute our belief in the power of kinship, community, and relationship to digital communications is a testament to the futurity of our cultures. Evident on many social media feeds today is the way our interconnectedness to one another is still the traditional medicine we long for most. From posts sharing friendship missed and flashbacks to the last gathering with friends over good food, there is a deep longing for the connection to each other.

As Indigenous peoples, our practices center acts of reciprocity for bounty and blessing. Most communities and nations mark this harvest period with prayers, ceremonies, and numerous expressions of gratitude. “Pueblo and [other] Indigenous peoples have always had a reciprocal relationship with the land and for each other. Colonialism continuously encroaches on that, but each time we plant seeds,” says Devore, “we are giving back to maintain connection to ancestors and the land.”

As we adjust to fewer hours of daylight, many Native communities begin a transition from the close of harvest season to the preparing for winter. Even these practices are ones being shared on social media channels. Many friends, whether in urban settings or home on the reservation, have used this time of being at home to plant with loved ones. Devore notes that this year “has pushed many to plant as Pueblo communities have been on lockdown due to the pandemic. Jemez has always been a community of farmers, but it has never looked more beautiful to see the crops flourish.” The arrival of crops is a signal for the commercial indicators of the American observance of Thanksgiving to appear. Tropes from this his62

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This year, our call-in should be about the way our year has been sustained by numerous essential workers, including farmers and farm workers, who have been on the frontlines of this pandemic. Luger proposes a semantic adjustment to the term “giving thanks” as a way to “extend thanks to the people who made that offer and provided that offer. In the end, the season’s importance is much greater than the tropes.” For Indigenous, Black, and communities of color, this harvest season will also be filled with grief for the loved ones sick and lost due to this pandemic. The impact endured by our communities and nations during this COVID-19 pandemic is directly proportionate to the depths at which racism, settler colonialism, invisibility, and police brutality have also ravaged our relations. What we are finding in this global pandemic and movement for Black lives and racial justice is a

rekindling and remembering of the power of our connection to each other, not only in revolution and resistance but also with the ways we fight toward collective liberation. “I have a great amount of gratitude for the ancestors before me who fought to protect this land for us. Their resistance to colonizers has allowed us to be nourished through harvest time. Beyond that, we have also been given the responsibility to carry out these ways of life and cultural sustainability. This communal care does not center the false narrative carried out by Thankstaking,” shares Devore. It is through this community care and relationship to each other that Indigenous communities are breaking cycles, redistributing resources and aid to help each other through an uncertain period of hardship. What is incredible to see is the process of practicing relationality or “the space between space” as Luger describes it. In this space between the creation of art, farming, and caring for community, Indigenous peoples are finding it possible to experience home, land, joy, and rest. Devore notes time with her son as a moment of significance. “I have a deep love for music; it provides different types of care for our emotions. It has pulled me through during this time of uncertainty. . . . Bryant and I appreciate long drives and jamming to music, so that has been one of safest ways to be outside and enjoying time with each other.” It is also time for others to invite stillness. As a prolific artist, this pivot within the pandemic for Luger has meant being able to find nourishment with his immediate community. Getting to “live into” what he has worked so hard to create with his partner, two boys, and dog.

Due to personal health concerns and travel restrictions living in a Native community on lockdown, I made the decision not to attend my niece’s Kinaaldá. Over the course of the four-day ceremony, I prayed in the morning. I thought of her making her runs at dawn and noon. I eagerly awaited video updates and texts from my parents. Once the ceremony ended, I had a socially distanced meeting with my dad. He had driven four hours to meet me to deliver a piece of my niece’s ceremonial cake. This ałkaan is a coarse cornmeal cake that is baked in the ground overnight. My niece’s cake was about three feet in diameter and six inches deep. There are many protocols a young woman has to follow as part of the ceremony, and we believe her adherence and spirit impact the way the cake is baked and tastes. Once baked, the young woman is told to give all of her cake away, never tasting it. This act of generosity is what I think of when I think of community care. This is how I came to know my relationship to others in the world as a young woman. It was through my own ceremony that I lived into the value of K’é. It is through generosity and giving that we are taught to care for each other. With excitement, I broke off a piece of the cake my dad shared, and instantly I could see the beautiful life my niece would lead, simply because her cake tasted good.

Blue corn and chile fields at Jemez Pueblo. Photos courtesy of Pueblo Action Alliance. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Family Acres, Community Anchors DEEP-ROOTED, SMALL FAMILY FARMS PROVIDE MANY FUNCTIONS IN TIMES OF CRISIS By Willy Carleton

Molly Manzanares trailing sheep through Carson National Forest at an altitude of approximately ten thousand feet. Photo by Lara Manzanares.

ometime in late August, I found a dead songbird outside my kitchen window. It was before such birds had made national headlines. I stared at its emaciated blue and yellow body for a clue of why it had died, idly concluding it must have simply flown into the window by accident. I made some coffee and went to work, nearly forgetting about it until well later when the news stories broke. A few weeks later, the image of that bird once again came to mind as I spoke with Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, executive director of the Quivira Coalition. 64

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“What I worry is that the same thing is going to happen with family farms.” She let out a slight, nervous laugh at the sheer terror of such a statement before explaining further. “The mass die-off of those songbirds vacates a niche in the ecology that can have devastating ripple effects on the broader ecosystem. Here in New Mexico we have drought, migration and development pressure, lack of access to pandemic recovery resources, and limits to the market because of the pandemic, all of which put family farms here at a much higher risk.” The songbirds were a widespread warning that something was definitely

not right in the environment, and, as Wentzel-Fisher sees it, family farmers, who serve critical roles in our communities and landscapes, are similarly showing signs of distress. That conversation led me to other discussions with several farmers and ranchers and their advocates about the current state and function of family farms in New Mexico. I learned from those conversations that a bright side of this year has been that more families have converted their irrigated land to food production, and more small farms and ranches have filled in important supply chain gaps, revealing to many just how critical these farms and ranches are to our communities. Yet I learned too that the ongoing pandemic has strained an already fragile existence for many small family farms in New Mexico. Losing such farms would mean losing far more than simply a food or fiber producer. With intimate knowledge of their local landscapes, sometimes passed down from many generations, these farmers and ranchers are uniquely suited as climate change first-responders, cultural keepers, and community builders. Don Bustos, who farms the same piece of land in Santa Cruz that his ancestors have farmed for over four centuries, likens the family farms of northern New Mexico to deep-rooted trees. “If you have a tree with deep roots, there are always sprouts coming out, little shoots coming out, and then there are seeds that are being spread all over the place. It acts as an anchor, as security, and acts as a buffer, too,“ he explained. “A multigenerational farm really helps anchor a community in several different ways,” he continued. “It’s a place for sharing knowledge, it’s a place to get resources, it’s a place of security knowing that there are farms like that in your community that can help support people. . . . It’s a first indication of what’s occurred in the environment. You can see it right on the ground, and that information gets passed around to other small farmers. So that’s community building happening. People come around; they come for matanzas, festivals, and celebrations. A lot of those are based around community, food, small farms, and agriculture.”

have a loss of family farms, particularly in northern New Mexico.” Those factors span from an extreme drought that has dried acequias throughout northern New Mexico to pandemic-related market limits for farmers, processing backlogs for ranchers, and an overall lack of access to government recovery resources. Tyler Eshleman, coordinator of New Mexico Coalition to Enhance Working Lands, explained a few of the challenges for producers in the region. “The COVID-19 pandemic has highlighted for us the challenges around lack of adequate processing, cold storage, and transportation infrastructure across the state,” he said. “Many farmers and ranchers lost their markets or experienced significant disruptions in their supply chains. This has meant energy and dollars had to go toward developing new markets that may or may not last beyond the pandemic—time and money most family operations don’t have.” Ranchers, he added, “have been hit particularly hard—many experiencing current delays in getting appointments with processors. . . . This means spending money feeding animals or maintaining lands to hold animals during a drought. It’s expensive.” One such cattle rancher is Emily Cornell. A thirty-year-old rancher outside of Wagon Mound, Cornell began leasing part of the family ranch last year to begin her own cattle business, Sol Ranch, that is committed to regenerative, soil-building ranching practices. “Once COVID hit and the beef prices dropped, a lot of the conventional ranchers started booking up slots with processors,” she explained. “So that’s put a huge strain on any sort of grassfed business that is dependent on those small processors.” Despite the current struggles, Cornell related an appreciation for being able to build off her parents’ knowledge of the land to grow her business. “I’m getting a chance to really do the planning on the landscape, [such as] where we want fences and water, and how do we need to rest our riparian areas and things like that,” she said. “And I feel like I get to inherit the know-how of how to do that, to some extent.”

These varied functions of the family farm are precisely why WentzelFisher is so deeply concerned about the future viability of multigenerational ranches and farms. “Part of what makes family farms invaluable is not just the food that they produce,” she said, “but the services they provide through generations of knowledge of how the land operates.” These ecosystem services, which might include a wide range of tasks, such as upstream erosion control, flood mitigation through acequia maintenance and operation, and fire prevention work, are often unacknowledged and unpaid. Such services will be critical as we face climate challenges ahead.

For Cornell, being a business with family connections has meant not only sharing knowledge, but being close during a difficult time. “I don’t live with my parents, but they’re just down the road, and we help each other quite often with cattle work and various things. . . . I think our generation [is] used to dispersing from our parents and from the places where we grew up, and I never really thought much about coming back. But I’m appreciative now, knowing that I can help my parents, and I get to spend time with them and learn from them and, as crazy as that seemed at one point that I would want to do that, I’m appreciative of that opportunity [now].”

Gillian Joyce, executive director of the Alianza Agricultura de Taos, put it like this: “Our acequia agriculturalists and our riparian area producers are the best stewards we have. The capacity of our producers to increase water infiltration, and to help our aquifers and our rivers is huge. They are the most important first responders to climate change we have.”

Such family relationships are often critical to New Mexico’s ranching business, where, according to a 2017 study, “the family supplies most ranch labor, and a majority of ranchers (70 percent) have been in the lifestyle for over sixty years.” An aging farming population, exacerbated by high land prices for farm and ranch land, only makes young farmers and ranchers such as Cornell more important to the state’s agricultural future.

This year has brought a unique strain on our state’s multigenerational small farms. With many families who were already marginalized struggling right now, Wentzel-Fisher said, “the combination of all the various factors of this year are really setting us up to

Increases in land prices have been yet another effect of the pandemic on farmers and ranchers in some parts of the state. In Santa Fe county, for example, land prices jumped 69 percent in the second WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Top left, clockwise: View from Johnson’s Mesa outside of Las Vegas; view of “The Mound” from the Mogote Hills; happy cows. Photos courtesy of Sol Ranch. Opposite page: Top left, clockwise: Toni Broaddus and horse Shorty lead a semitruck through the flock during the annual fall sheep drive; Molly and Antonio Manzanares showcase Shepherd’s Lamb at the Santa Fe Farmers' Market; Churro sheep at feeding time; tapestries made with Shepherd’s Lamb Churro weaving yarn. Photos by Lara Manzanares.

quarter of 2020, according to Santa Fe Association of Realtors. Jarred Conley, owner and broker with the New Mexico Real Estate Group, specializes in land sales in northern New Mexico. Conley explained to me that interest in irrigated farm land in the area is high and that, unlike in previous years, much of the interest has come from people with little or no background in agriculture. “I’ve probably had more calls for irrigated land for farming since COVID started than I’ve had in ten years,” he said. “We have a very limited supply of irrigated land available, which is the only factor preventing an increase in sales right now.” Added interest in land and increased land prices only increases the development pressure on family farms. Joyce explained: “For a lot of our legacy agricultural families, the generational wealth that they have to pass on is land. . . . When your wealth is in land and the labor market contracts [due to the pandemic], then the thing you turn to is your land, particularly when we’re seeing a ridiculous inflation of property prices. So logically, we may see that more as we go into winter. Particularly when people are looking at their land and saying ‘Man, I can’t even irrigate it,’ this is a perfect storm for increasing the rate at which agricultural land is lost under development.” 66

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For many farmers and ranchers throughout northern New Mexico, an increase in development pressure, which has long been an issue in the region, adds cause for concern. And yet, for a long time, family farms and ranches have been in decline in New Mexico, where the rural population has steadily dropped from 43 percent in 1980 to 33 percent in 2015. The decline is evident to many in rural communities, such as Antonio Manzanares, who owns Shepherd’s Lamb in Tierra Amarilla with his wife, Molly Manzanares. Antonio describes seeing such pressure in his valley for a long time now. “You know,” he said, “I can count on one hand in this whole valley, from Chama all the way to Canjilon, the folks that still make their living from agriculture.” Shepherd’s Lamb is one of a handful of fulltime sheep producers in New Mexico, where raising sheep had once been commonplace. Antonio’s voice was quiet and calm, with a mix of dry humor and realistic concern, as he considered what lies ahead for his ranch and the valley he has grown up in. “If our kids aren’t going to do it, what’s going to happen? We don’t really want to sell the ranch, but are we going to be forced to? And what’s going to happen then? Are they just going to build homes on it? Subdivide it? Or is someone going to come in and buy it as a small

ranch? I don’t know.” Antonio started the sheep business with Molly on land that had belonged to his grandfather. Starting with fourteen sheep, together they slowly started to grow their business and built the herd to roughly one thousand ewes. “My wife and I discuss these kinds of things all the time, and we wonder, well, why are we working so hard, and what’s going to happen, and do people really care anymore? Or is it just all about what’s in it for me, not what’s in it for everybody else or the community? And this community is really deteriorating. You come to TA [Tierra Amarilla] and you see all the buildings falling down, you wonder what it’s going to look like fifty years from today.” There are several ways to support family farms, ranging from contributing to local land trusts, voting for public officials who will create public initiatives to increase local markets through procurement programs, and, of course, purchasing directly and indirectly from local farms and ranches. As Cornell expressed to me, “It seems to make sense for me that people wanting to make a positive impact on the environment and their local landscape support the local ranchers and farmers that are doing this work. . . . We don’t always want to thump our chests and say, ‘Look at what I did. I built these rock structures and fixed this erosion,’ but maybe that’s what we need to do because

maybe the consumer isn’t aware that there’s a ranch nearby that’s doing this work, and that they could contact each year for their beef, and that they could see the ranch and see the animals and have a relationship with that producer and build that relationship that’s built on mutual trust and understanding that we’re doing the best we can to honor their values as well as our own.” Cornell, who was busy watering her cows as we talked, moved out of reception briefly before cutting back in. “And that’s something I’d like to see come out of this.” Such support for New Mexico’s small farms and ranches, especially those built on multigenerational knowledge, has never been more important. These farms provide much more than food and fiber; they help hold together both community and ecosystem. After my conversations with these farmers and ranchers, the image of the songbird outside my kitchen window once again entered my mind. I thought back to an analogy Don Bustos made for family farms in New Mexico, as he described how farmers are often the first to see environmental distress in their landscapes and economic distress in their communities. “We’re like the canary in the cage, man,” he said toward the end of our conversation. “If we go down, New Mexico will go down.”

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California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Farm-to-table dining and a casual patio. 10601 Montgomery NE, 505-294-9463, savoyabq.com

edible New Mexico | EARLY WINTER 2020

Urban Cocina offers exceptional cuisine scratch-made with locally sourced ingredients. 1 Central NW, 505-508-0348, urbancocina.com

VARA Winery & Distillery

Spanish and American wines celebrating the origins of the American wine experience. 315 Alameda NE, Albuquerque, 505-898-6280, varawines.com

Zinc Restaurant & Wine Bar

A three-level bistro featuring contemporary cuisine and late night bar bites. 3009 Central NE, 505-254-9462, zincabq.com

Loyal Hound

Locally sourced modern comfort food paired with craft beer, cider, and wine. 730 St. Michaels, 505-471-0440, loyalhoundpub.com

Ohori’s Coffee Roasters

The original source for locally roasted coffee beans, gifts, and gathering. 505 Cerrillos and 1098 St. Francis, 505-982-9692, 507 Old Santa Fe Trail, ohoriscoffee.com

Paper Dosa

Bringing fresh, authentic homestyle South Indian dishes to your table. These bright and exciting flavors will leave you wanting more. 551 W Cordova, 505-930-5521, paper-dosa.com

Radish & Rye

Farm-inspired cuisine: simple yet innovative food and drinks sourced locally whenever possible. 505 Cerrillos, 505-930-5325, radishandrye.com

The Compound Restaurant

Chef Mark Kiffin preserves a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution. 653 Canyon Road, 505-982-4353, compoundrestaurant.com

GREATER NEW MEXICO RESTAURANTS Black Bird Saloon

SANTA FE RESTAURANTS

Genuine food and drink, Wild West style. 28 Main Street, Los Cerrillos, 505-438-1821, blackbirdsaloon.com

Inspired by the bounty of New Mexico, and the small community of Eldorado, Arable was born. 7 Avenida Vista Grande, 505-303-3816, arablesantafe.com

Black Mesa Winery is an award-winning winery using only New Mexican grapes. 1502 Highway 68, Velarde, 505-852-2820, blackmesawinery.com

Arable

Black Mesa Winery

Anasazi Restaurant & Bar

Charlie’s Bakery & Café

Contemporary American cuisine inspired by locally sourced seasonal ingredients. 113 Washington, 505-988-3030, innoftheanasazi.com

Arroyo Vino

We serve progressive American fare inspired by our on-premise garden and local purveyors. 218 Camino La Tierra, 505-983-2100, arroyovino.com

Dolina

We serve modern American brunch with Eastern European influences. Open 7 days a week. 402 N Guadalupe, 505-982-9394, dolinasantafe.com

Honeymoon Brewery

High desert hard kombucha handcrafted in Santa Fe. 907 W Alameda, 505-303-3139 honeymoonbrewery.com

Iconik Coffee Roasters

Amazing food, unique coffees roasted onsite, and super fast high-speed internet. 314 S Guadalupe and 1600 Lena, 505-428-0996, iconikcoffee.com

Homemade Mexican & American meals along with all-day breakfast and desserts. 715 Douglas Ave, Las Vegas, 505-426-1921

Michael’s Kitchen Restaurant and Bakery

Regionally inspired eats with a tongue-incheek menu in a casual space decorated with knickknacks. 304-C N Pueblo, Taos, 575-758-4178, michaelskitchen.com

Pajarito Brewpub & Grill

serving unique twists on all your favorite dishes. 614 Trinity, Los Alamos, 505-662-8877, pajaritobrewpubandgrill.com

Revel

Farm to table, elevated comfort food, in a fast-casual environment. 304 N Bullard, Silver City, 575-388-4920, eatdrinkrevel.com

The Skillet

American, Southwest, vegetarian friendly. 619 12th Street, Las Vegas, 505-563-0477, giant-skillet.com

LAST BITE

Del Valle Pecan Pie Martini Adapted from Lena Abraham Serves 4 This strong drink is the perfect cap to a meal, and helps makes gatherings, whether virtual or socially distanced, into an occasion. Garnish 3 tablespoons caramel sauce 1/4 cup chopped pecans, toasted 1/2 cup heavy cream, whipped 4 whole pecans Sprinkle of cinnamon Cocktail 8 ounces rumchata (get DIY recipe on page 72) 8 ounces crĂ¨me de cacao (get DIY recipe on page 72) 4 ounces bourbon Put caramel and toasted chopped pecans on separate small, shallow plates. To coat glasses, dip half the rim of each glass first into the caramel and then into chopped pecans. Combine rumchata, crĂ¨me de cacao, and bourbon in a large cocktail shaker. Fill with ice and shake until cold, about 30 seconds. Pour into martini glasses and top with dollop of whipped cream, a whole pecan, and a sprinkle of cinnamon.

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LAST BITE

DIY Liqueurs DIY RUMCHATA Makes 5 cups 3 cups heavy cream 1 cup simple syrup (equal parts cane sugar and water) 1 cup white rum 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg Place all ingredients in a blender and mix until well combined. Pour mixture into an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

DIY CRÈME DE CACAO Makes 3 cups 1 1/2 cups vodka or rum 6 ounces cacao nibs 3 vanilla beans, split (or 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract) Simple syrup (1 cup raw or brown sugar to 1 cup water) Add the cacao nibs, vanilla beans, and liquor to a swing-top bottle. Give the bottle a shake. Rest for 2 weeks, shaking periodically. Alternatively, if you don’t have the patience to wait several weeks, you can use heat to speed the process. Gently heat the cacao nibs, vanilla beans, and liquor in the top of a double boiler for 30–60 minutes. Let cool to room temperature and place in a swing-top bottle. Strain out cacao nibs and vanilla beans. Pour liquid back into swing-top bottle and discard the nibs and beans. Add 1:1 simple syrup to your bottle. Taste and add more simple syrup for a sweeter liqueur. Rest for an additional 1–2 days before using. It will last on your shelf for a very long time.

edible New Mexico | EARLY WINTER 2020

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