Fall 2019: Terra by edible New Mexico

edible

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

NEW MEXICO THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON IN NEW MEXICO

Terra ISSUE 64 · FALL • OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 2019

NEW LOCATION: 505 CERRILLOS, SANTA FE AT THE LUNA CENTER

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photos: doug merriam

FA RM I NSPIRED C UI SI NE

Member FDIC

MORE THAN A KITCHEN. A COMMUNITY PARTNERSHIP. Together. That is how we build community. Kids Kitchen is a shinning example of how partnerships in northern New Mexico have come together to create positive and lasting impacts in our community. Learn more about Kids Kitchen at more.enterprisebank.com

TERRA: OCTOBER / NOVEMBER DEPARTMENTS 2

GRIST FOR THE MILL By Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook

CONTRIBUTORS

LOCAL HEROES

46 EIGHT AROUND THE STATE Craft Distilleries and Craft Cocktails Smackdown Round Up

WILD THING

88 #EDIBLENM

FORAGED

FERMENTI'S PARADOX Hard Kombucha by Robert Salas

COOKING FRESH Thanksgiving with New Mexican Flare by Stephanie Cameron

FACES OF FOOD Learning from the Land by Robin Babb

THE PLATE Arroyo Vino by Douglas Merriam

Terra

56 THE FUTURE OF GRASSFED

62 CORN, SOIL, TOMORROW

THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON IN NEW MEXICO

FEATURES Sustainable Ranching in the El Morro Valley by Michael Dax

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

NEW MEXICO

81 SOURCE GUIDE / EAT LOCAL GUIDE 86 ON THE COUNTER

Crazy for Crabapples by Ellen Zachos

edible

76 EDIBLE NOTABLES

David Sellers, Marc Quinoñes, Peculiar Farms, Dolina What’s at Stake by Katie DeLorenzo

ON THE COVER

ISSUE 64 · FALL • OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 2019

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9/16/19 8:45 AM

Heart Beet in the Dirt. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

Cultivating Resilience with the Flower Hill Institute by Briana Olson

66 LET'S TALK DIRTY The Healthy Soil Act in New Mexico by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

71 MERCEDES AGRÍCOLAS Land Grants and the Past and Future of Agriculture in New Mexico by Jacobo D. Baca WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

GRIST FOR THE MILL PUBLISHERS Bite Size Media, LLC

This issue of edible stems from the simple but all-too-important reality that underlying every locally grown, locally raised, or wildcrafted meal is a patch of earth. From New Mexico’s extensive grasslands to the alpine meadows, from the rich valley fields to volcanic vineyards, our soil feeds our food. And our local food system will only be as healthy as the soils that sustain it. In this issue, we consider the land from many vantages. We visit Jemez Pueblo, where a community-led nonprofit sees healthy soil as a key to cultural preservation and the longterm health of the community. We also take a look at the historic and current ways that land grant communities have stewarded the land, and the important role these communities can play in our collective efforts at preserving the mountains and rangelands we all love. From there we consider our riverbeds, as angler and hunter Katie DeLorenzo explores questions surrounding access to public lands and waters, and we visit a local ranch dedicated to strengthening the grasslands near El Morro. Finally, the Quivira Coalition’s Sarah WentzelFisher explains the nuances of healthy soil and the actions we can take to maintain healthy soils in our backyards and advocate for them on our public lands. In their own way, each story in this issue reminds us that the land beneath our feet is not simply dirt. It is a mirror of our values, and of our relationship to our food and the earth. It is a diverse and fragile ecosystem, a living cosmos of bioactivity that provides nutrients vital for crops and shapes the unique flavor profiles of New Mexico cuisine. It is a precious and ancient resource, handed down to us by previous generations, and is our responsibility to nurture for future ones. The land is our collective body and its health reflects our own.

Stephanie and Walt Cameron

EDITORS Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook

COPY EDITORS Margaret Marti and Briana Olson

DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron

PHOTO EDITOR Stephanie Cameron

EVENT COORDINATOR Natalie Donnelly

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Joshua Hinte

VIDEO PRODUCER Walt Cameron

SALES AND MARKETING Kate Collins, Melinda Esquibel, and Gina Riccobono

Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook, Editors

SUBSCRIBE ∙ BUY AN AD ∙ LETTERS 505-375-1329 WWW.EDIBLENM.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at

Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers

INFO@EDIBLENM.COM Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible New Mexico six times a year. We distribute throughout New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. Printed at Courier Graphics Corporation Phoenix, Arizona No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2019 All rights reserved.

Corn field. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

Fresh

itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s closer than you think.. Local ingredients, served locally. We seek out the freshest, seasonal organic produce, meats and fish. Then we serve it up with flair and attentive service right in your neighborhood. Join locals supporting locals. Deliciously.

HISTORIC NOB HILL 505.254.ZINC(9462) ZincABQ.com

ALBUQUERQUE HEIGHTS 505.294.WINE(9463) SavoyABQ.com

OLD TOWN ALBUQUERQUE 505.766.5100 SeasonsABQ.com

ALBUQUERQUE, SANTA FE 505.850.2459 TasteABQ.com

Vida Verde Farm in Albuquerque, NM

CONTRIBUTORS ROBIN BABB Robin Babb is a writer and editor based in Albuquerque. Her writing revolves around food and drink, sustainable agriculture, indigenous foodways, and the culture and ecology of the American Southwest. JACOBO D. BACA Jacobo D. Baca is a historian for the New Mexico Land Grant Council and the Land Grant Studies Program at the University of New Mexico, where he earned his doctorate in 2015. He is an heir to the Santa Cruz de la Cañada Grant, the Town of Tomé Grant, and other land grants in New Mexico. STEPHANIE CAMERON Stephanie Cameron was raised in Albuquerque and earned a degree in fine arts at the University of New Mexico. After photographing, testing, and designing a cookbook in 2011, she and her husband Walt began pursuing Edible Communities and they found edible in their backyard. Today Cameron is the art director, head photographer, marketing guru, publisher, and owner of edible New Mexico. WILLY CARLETON Willy Carleton is editor of edible New Mexico. He recently completed his PhD in history at the University of New Mexico, with a dissertation examining the cultural history of twentieth-century agriculture in the Southwest. He owns and manages Leafwater Farm, a small vegetable farm in northern New Mexico. CANDOLIN COOK Candolin Cook is a history doctoral candidate at the University of New Mexico, an associate editor for the New Mexico Historical Review, and editor of edible New Mexico. On Saturdays, you can find her selling Vida Verde Farm produce at Albuquerque's Downtown Growers' Market. Follow her farm life on Instagram @vidaverdefarmabq and @candolin KATIE DELORENZO Katie DeLorenzo is a conservationist, passionate hunter, aspiring home cook, and the Southwest chapter coordinator for Backcountry Hunters & Anglers, a nonprofit supporting wild public lands, waters, and wildlife. From hosting ladies nights at her local archery shop to helping novices harvest their first big game animal, her free time is spent mentoring new hunters and sharing the gospel of an outdoor lifestyle. 4

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MICHAEL J. DAX Michael J. Dax lives in Santa Fe and writes about environment and culture in the American West. He is the author of Grizzly West: A Failed Attempt to Reintroduce Grizzly Bears in the Mountain West (2015). DOUGLAS MERRIAM Douglas Merriam is a travel and lifestyle photographer with a passion for anything food-related. He published Farm Fresh Journey, The Santa Fe Farmers Market Cookbook (farmfreshjourney.com), now in its second printing. Merriam gives the farmers market a percentage of every book sold. BRIANA OLSON Briana Olson is a freelance writer and copy editor, and lead editor for the New Farmer’s Almanac, a miscellany of writings and art by farmers, ecologists, and other land-loving types. She enjoys long mountain walks, taking risks in the kitchen, and seeking out new and interesting things to eat, from Bangkok to Albuquerque. ROBERT SALAS Robert Salas is a self-proclaimed foodie and craft beer lover. Since graduating from the University of New Mexico, he’s worked as a multimedia journalist for many online publications in New Mexico and Colorado. He recently won a first-place reporting prize from the New Mexico Press Women’s Association. Salas has worked in the health food industry for five years and he loves to combine his zeal for writing with his passion for tasty food. SARAH WENTZEL-FISHER Sarah Wentzel-Fisher is executive director of the Quivira Coalition, a Santa Fe–based nonprofit working at the intersection of agriculture and conservation. She aspires to build community capacity by reimagining the ways we access food, land, capital, and culture. ELLEN ZACHOS Ellen Zachos is the author of seven books, including Backyard Foraging and The Wildcrafted Cocktail. She teaches at foraging events, public gardens, and flower shows across the country, and shares tips on her website backyardforager.com. Ellen also offers online foraging courses at backyard-forager.thinkific.com.

Holidays with History Saturday, November 30 and Saturday, December 14 · 5:00 – 9:00 PM

Light Among the Ruins JEMEZ HISTORIC SITE

Experience the magic of hundreds of farolitos, Native American flute music, Jemez Pueblo dancers, and bonfires.

Saturday, December 7 · 4:00 – 9:00 PM

Lights of Los Luceros

LOS LUCEROS HISTORIC SITE Join the State’s newest Historic Site to experience the sights, sounds, smells, and tastes of northern New Mexico’s holiday traditions.

Saturday, December 7 · 4:00 – 7:00 pm

December Letters from the Reservation

FORT SUMNER HISTORIC SITE/ BOSQUE REDONDO MEMORIAL A light supper will be followed by a journey into the past with readings of archival letters from Decembers 1863 through 1867.

Saturday, December 14 · 6:00 – 9:00 pm

Las Noches de Las Luminarias

FORT SELDEN HISTORIC SITE Join us for the lighting of over eight hundred candles around the Fort ruins, holiday music, a cozy campfire, and a warm cup of cheer.

Sunday, December 15 · 12:30 – 4:30 pm

Nacimiento Open House with J. Paul Taylor

TAYLOR-MESILLA HISTORIC PROPERTY Spend an afternoon viewing more than 185 nativity scenes on display in the Taylor family home.

Visit NMHistoricSites.org for directions and more information

LOCAL HEROES An edible Local Hero is an exceptional individual, business, or organization making a positive impact on New Mexico's food systems. These honorees nurture our communities through food, service, and socially and environmentally sustainable business practices. Edible New Mexico readers nominate and vote for their favorite local chefs, growers, artisans, advocates, and other food professionals in two dozen categories—including this year's new Innovator award. In each issue of edible, we feature interviews with a handful of the winners, allowing us to get better acquainted with them and the important work they do. Please join us in thanking these Local Heroes for being at the forefront of New Mexico's local food movement.

Marc Quiñones

EXECUTIVE CHEF OF THE HOTEL ANDALUZ, A CURIO COLLECTION BY HILTON BEST CHEF, ALBUQUERQUE Photos by Stacey M. Adams

Marc Quiñones, Executive Chef of MÁS Tapas y Vino and Hotel Andaluz.

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Moroccan Short Rib Bao Buns.

Marc Quiñones was born and raised in the South Bronx, growing up entrenched in his Puerto Rican heritage and watching his mother and grandmother cook delicious dishes from as far back as he can remember. Since graduating from Le Cordon Bleu’s program at the Scottsdale Culinary Institute, he has realized many successes. Prior to taking over the helm as executive chef of MÁS Tapas y Vino at the Hotel Andaluz, he served as executive chef of the historic Inn & Spa at Loretto in downtown Santa Fe, as well as at Bien Shur Restaurant atop the Sandia Resort & Casino.

How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? In short, the biggest reason why I’ve gotten to where I am currently in my career is because of an undying passion for food and people. Being raised in the South Bronx by my mother, whose roots are Puerto Rican, food was always the centerpiece of all our days. Since I was a young boy I’ve always felt in my natural habitat when I’m around food, so when it’s time to talk about my craft, the dialogue flows organically. Even when I was a young dishwasher, I would always volunteer to stay late for free just to watch (and if I was lucky, to help) the line cooks at night. It was never a chore for me and was definitely a “get to” not a “have to.” My first job was at Wendy’s Old Fashioned Hamburgers in high school, and even then I was always super thrilled to work the grill station and took great pride in all of the burgers I sent out! That special care and attention to detail stood with me every step of the way. When I started working in “real kitchens,” that supreme focus is what sepa8

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rated me and ultimately what would get me noticed by my chefs. As a result of my thought process, culinary school was a piece of cake, and I graduated top of my class and on the president’s list from Le Cordon Bleu Scottsdale. The opportunity to take over the culinary department of Hotel Andaluz popped up almost overnight, and after meeting with ownership I immediately felt like I was supposed to be there all along.

What is a local food issue that is important to you? Why? Childhood hunger. Growing up in poverty in one of the very most underprivileged neighborhoods in the world (Hunts Point), this one touches close to home. We must be better as a community to ensure that no child goes hungry. Ever. And as a chef with a little bit of influence, I will never keep my mouth shut about this and will always leverage anything I have—time, money, etc—in doing all that I can to help.

You’ve competed on a couple of television food programs and have a large social media following. What are your thoughts on this era of the “celebrity chef ”? Is that something you would welcome or have reservations about? None of those things define me in any shape, form, or fashion. Ten out of ten people who have seen me compete at that level, or even follow my social media platforms, will tell you that I’m completely different than that they thought I would be, after having sat with me for even just ten minutes to get to know me. While grateful for all of those opportunities, and there’s more coming (teaser), that’s just not anywhere near the top of the list as to why I selected this industry to make a living in. In any context, I’m simply a very passionate individual with a genu-

ine love affair with food. I think my energy and passion are what has opened those doors for me. The love that I have for my family, tireless work ethic, and lending a helping hand are the bullet points that define me. I also have a massive thirst for more knowledge and will always consider myself a student of the craft.

Where do you see New Mexico’s place in the national food scene? I’ve traveled all over the globe and have been blessed to cook at the most outrageously beautiful places most would only dream of. That being said, let’s get one thing straight right now: The great state of New Mexico, without question, belongs right at the top of the list with all of the perceived food cities worldwide. Few, if any, have that distinct level of authenticity and mystique that this beautiful Land of Enchantment has and those qualities spill right into our food scene from A to Z. And I will always be on a mission to let the world know that we belong.

How does your heritage influence your cooking? Is there a place in Albuquerque you love to go to for Puerto Rican cuisine or ingredients? Being Puerto Rican is such an honor. The flavors of our island are deep in my veins. I always build a lot of my flavor profiles for a dish with those marinating and seasoning techniques in what I call “from the ground up approach.” That’s where the dish may look five-star but the flavors are what sing. I like to go to Talin Market here in Albuquerque’s International District. They have a fantastic section of ingredients that the Puerto Rican and Cuban communities out here can choose from.

What’s a current food trend you love? What’s one you think is overrated? I love how I’m seeing so many young chefs take a thoughtful approach to food. That’s the ticket and it’s encouraging to see. Nothing is overrated. If something lights your soul on fire and gets your juices flowing, go ahead and do your thing, even if it’s being done everywhere else. I’m not qualified to judge anyone, so I always say, as long as you’re being authentic, do your thing!

What are your favorite activities outside of the kitchen? Spending time with Lysa and our three sons, Ilijah, Truth, and Journey. They are my “whys.” I have a great rresponsibility being their father, and nothing else that I do tops that. Tell us something surprising. I run. A lot. Seventy-five to ninety miles a week, three marathons in the last year and am currently training for my fourth, which will be my first World Majors marathon up in Chicago this fall.

Is there anything else you’d like to share with edible readers? New Mexico, you have been so good to me and my family. Truly. And I fully intend to continue to sing your praises at any event I do, anywhere in the world. I’m proud to represent us. Your landscape, culture, food bounty, and people are majestic. Let’s take care of our youth— and trust me when I tell you that I’ll always be first in line to help. 125 2nd St NW, Albuquerque, 505-242-9090, hotelandaluz.com

LOCAL HEROES

David Sellers

STREET FOOD INSTITUTE / EXECUTIVE CHEF / PROGRAM DIRECTOR OLLA AWARD, LOCAL HERO Photos by Stephanie Cameron

David Sellers on the Street Food Institute food truck.

David Sellers has been a chef for twenty-five years. He began his career in New Hampshire, cooked in San Francisco for a couple of years, then moved to Santa Fe in the late nineties. Sellers was the chef at Santacafé for ten years before opening his own restaurant, Amavi, in 2007. In 2010, he and his family moved to Connecticut, where he was the chef at MaxFish, a high-end seafood restaurant. In 2014, he returned to Santa Fe to launch the Street Food Institute, a non-profit program and food truck dedicated to educating future chefs and food business professionals through courses and hands-on experience. How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? I had a great job on the East Coast and loved working with all of the fresh fish, but my family and I missed Santa Fe. We were waiting for an opportunity when I went to my now brother-in-law’s wedding 10

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

in Tennessee. One of my old employees (and a good friend) was in attendance as well. He knew we were looking for a way to move back and he was working for the fledgling Street Food Institute. He mentioned they were looking for a chef to launch the program. I flew back to Santa Fe to interview for the position and got the job. Why did you want to work for the Street Food Institute? I always like challenges in my work and have made an effort to do something completely different each time I change jobs. The teaching aspect of it was intriguing to me. Teaching people how to cook and watching the success of their culinary careers have always been two of the most rewarding parts of being a chef. What is one thing you teach your students that you hope they take to heart? I always teach them to instill passion into their cooking. People can tell when they are eating something that was made with care and passion.

1301 Cerrillos Rd ■ Santa Fe, NM 87505 ■ (505) 557-6654 ■ www.galleryethnica.com

Left: Notorious P.I.G.—chicken fried pork belly with Thai crab salsa and morita chile salsa matcha. Right: House smoked and house cured pastrami Ruben on marble rye.

What have your students taught you?

Describe a perfect day of eating in Santa Fe.

Many things. I tell all of my students that I am willing to learn from them, too. Cooking should be a non-ego-based exercise. If someone knows a better way to do something than you do, it’s okay. Chefs should take knowledge from wherever it comes.

That’s a tough one too, there are so many great options! New Mexican for breakfast and something outdoors for lunch in the summer. For dinner I like to do what I call the “dine around,” hitting three or four different places for a bite at each place.

What is a local food issue that is important to you? Why?

What are your favorite activities outside of the kitchen?

We do a lot of work with food justice and healthy cooking. It is really important to make sure that locally made foods are available to everybody, not just the people who can afford to pay top dollar. We also do a lot of teaching on how to use local foods in a healthy way.

Anything outdoors––skiing, hiking, biking. That’s why I moved back to New Mexico. I need to be close to the wilderness and the mountains.

How have your travels influenced your cooking, and is there a particular place you are most inspired by culinarily? I have been really fortunate in that I have done a lot of traveling internationally. My travels are always very food-focused, learning about the authentic local cuisines, and seeking out the best food I can find. Picking a place that is the most inspiring culinarily is a tough one. I love Italy and Spain the most in European cuisine, but the most intense food scene I have experienced is Singapore. The sheer volume of all of the cuisines of the Far East is unbelievable–– the greatest street food I have ever experienced. 12

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What were your thoughts when you found out edible readers had selected you for the Olla Award? I was stunned, honestly. I was surprised I was even nominated and fully assumed I didn’t have a chance at winning. It is really rewarding to see that the community recognizes the work that we do with the Street Food Institute. Is there anything else you’d like to share with edible readers? Just to say thank you for choosing me for the Olla Award! streetfoodinstitute.org

essence of family and giving thanks the

THANKSGIVING Thursday, November 28, 2019 Prix Fixe Menu $95++ per adult | $45++ under age of 12 Thanksgiving Day Hours Breakfast: 7AM-10:30AM Prix Fixe Menu: 12PM to 8:00PM Bar: 11AM-10PM (limited bar menu) Christmas Eve Tuesday, December 24, 2019 Tasting Menu $110++ per adult | $45++ under age of 12 2 Seatings 6-6:30 and 8:15-8:45 Standard Restaurant Hours for Breakfast & Lunch Live Music Christmas Day Wednesday, December 25 Prix Fixe Menu $100++ per adult | $45++ under age of 12 Christmas Day Hours Breakfast: 7AM-10:30AM Prix Fixe Menu: 12PM-8:00PM Bar: 11AM-10PM (limited bar menu) New Year’s Eve Tuesday, December 31, 2019 Tasting Menu $125++ per adult | $45++ per child under the age of 12 2 Seatings 6-6:30 and 8:15-8:45 Live Music Standard Restaurant Hours for Breakfast & Lunch New Year’s Day Brunch Wednesday, January 1, 2020 Standard Restaurant Hours For reservations call: 505-988-3236

ROSEWOOD INN OF THE ANASAZI 113 WASHINGTON AVENUE | SANTA FE, NM 87501 | (505)988-3030 Contemporary Southwestern Cuisine inspired by locally sourced seasonal ingredients. Dining Room · Bar · Patio · Live Entertainment · Private Dining For reservations please call (505) 988-3236

A NA SAZ I RESTAURANT BAR & LOUNGE

LOCAL HEROES

Peculiar Farms AN INTERVIEW WITH THOMAS DOLLAHITE, OWNER OF PECULIAR FARMS AND EUROPA COFFEE BEST FARM, GREATER NEW MEXICO Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Thomas Dollahite on the farm with his son and daughter.

Thomas Dollahite moved from archaeology to full time farming in 2011. Since that point, Peculiar Farms has produced everything from beef and eggs to vegetables and flowers. Most recently, with the addition of a café, Europa Coffee, customers have the opportunity to try Peculiar’s products within view of the farm. How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? I actually didn’t receive a degree in agriculture, but rather archaeology, and spent much of my time digging in the Middle East. But as my grandfather hit his mid-nineties, it was apparent that we needed to do something with the family farm. After considering various options, Peculiar Farms was born. It’s really my wife who took the farm to the next level by suggesting the café. The addition of a marketplace, event 14

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center, Airbnbs, playing and walking trails, and a honey room have only expanded the vision. These are all things we had talked about in the past but never thought could be realized on the property. What is a local food issue that is important to you? Why? I think diversity is a very important issue when it comes to the local food community. We have the opportunity to raise so many different types of vegetables and animals, and yet it seems that we tend to copy our neighbors most often. I’m excited by our expanding grassfed beef operation. We attempt every year to improve the flavor and quality of our beef through diversity in our varieties. With the introduction of our drip system a few years ago, it seems as though things are finally coming together to produce a product with which we are really satisfied.

Photo by Eric O'Connell

ROASTERY | TASTING ROOM | COFFEE BAR

Agua es Vida café es amor

1208 RIO GRANDE BLVD NW, ALBUQUERQUE • CUTBOWCOFFEE.COM • OPEN DAILY UNTIL 3PM

Growing up on the farm in Los Lunas.

What is the driving philosophy of your farm? For me farming is an occupation as old as the Garden of Eden and was put in place as an opportunity to worship as we tend the ground. Although there was a fall and much carnage since Adam, we still have the blessed privilege of seeing the creativity and quality of God in farming and, for me, agriculture becomes an opportunity to enjoy not just the creation, but also the creator. What was the best advice you received as a beginning farmer? My grandfather, who farmed several hundred acres of produce annually, always said quality will allow your product to rise above all the competitors. What is your favorite activity outside of the farm? Our favorite activity outside of the farm is traveling to our property in Bulgaria and enjoying the farm life there in a very different environment. 16

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There is something wonderful about seeing farming occurring in a way that it has for thousands of years, as people still use and raise varieties that have been saved from generation to generation. Tell us something surprising. Something surprising might be that I feel much more like a failure than a hero. Each season there are so many things you want to do that donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t work out. Farming is hard work and the results are never guaranteed. A hopeful thing is there is always next year, and the peaceful thing is that whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quantitatively successful, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s still sanctifying. Perhaps the greatest thing to remember in the local food community is we are all only a small part of food production, both locally and internationally, and we should appreciate and celebrate the many wonderful strengths we see represented in the artists and farmers around us. 2105 NM-314, Los Lunas, 505-328-3874, foodfarmfestival.com

LOCAL HEROES

Dolina

AN INTERVIEW WITH ANNAMARIA BREZNA O’BRIEN, BAKER AND OWNER BEST CAFE, SANTA FE Photos by Stacey M. Adams

Micah Williams, Annamaria Brezna O'Brien, and Lisetanne Scherschel having fun in the bakery at Dolina.

Dolina Cafe and Bakery opened in Santa Fe in the summer of 2017. Owner Annamaria Brezna O’Brien’s blend of Slovakian dishes, American/New Mexican favorites, and tantalizing baked goods quickly made Dolina (Slovak for valley) a favorite destination for breakfast and lunch in the City Different. How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? I was born in Slovakia in 1980, toward the end of the Communist era. We always had everything we needed (because of my mother's strong work ethic) and nothing we didn’t (because we knew the value of money and hard work). My love for fresh food and seasonal eating comes from my grandma. We’d go to her house in the village almost every weekend and spend much of our summers there. She had a big 18

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garden full of different vegetables, and raised chickens, rabbits, pigs, and geese. She’d spoil us with delicious crepes for breakfast and once in a while with foie gras for an afternoon snack. In the early fall, she preserved fruit jams, made sauerkraut, pickled vegetables, and dried mushrooms to last us for most of the winter. She taught me a great deal about cooking, baking, and self-sufficiency, and planted the seeds for my life-long relationship with food. As a child, I remember being strongly encouraged by my parents to leave the country and experience a life elsewhere. And so I did. I came to the US when I was nineteen, traveled and lived in different parts of the East Coast and Canada, and ended up settling in Santa Fe. One of my first jobs in Santa Fe was at Geronimo’s. That’s really where I first learned about fine dining in America. I’m so grateful for that experience. It taught me so much! It also made me realize that

photo courtesy: Sergio Salvador

SuNdAy SuPpEr In ThE VaLlEy. Continuing our ongoing partnership with the award-winning luxury hotel, Hotel Emma in San Antonio, our own Executive Chef Jonathan Perno is excited to welcome back their Culinary Director and his good friend, Chef John Brand. The two are thrilled to be able to put their heads together for our next installment in the Los Poblanos Dining Series. This year, instead of planning a menu in advance, the chefs will create an organic, artistic, culinary collaboration in the days leading up to the event. Using ingredients from both regions and combining years of unique experiences, they are excited to pool their resources to create a culinary masterpiece that promises to be unforgettable. A nod to the Sunday Supper series at Hotel Emma, join us during this magniďŹ cent season for Sunday Supper at Los Poblanos. Each course will be expertly wine-paired and thoughtfully explained by the chefs.

NoVeMbEr 10 | 6Pm

Visit lospoblanos.com for tickets and information

Left: Paprikash—chicken cooked in browned butter, white onions, Hungarian paprika with dumplings. Right: Langos—Slovakian street food.

fine dining wasn’t necessarily my thing. I’m more of a casual person and I like cozy comfort foods. I love creating beautiful environments and I love to feed people. Dolina is a culmination of those two things.

so that I could make her one of her favorite cakes—Makos Dios— more often. So now I have a beautiful one that is made by an Italian espresso grinder company. I just press a button! Thank you, Laurie!

What is a local food issue that is important to you? Why?

What is your favorite thing to cook outside of the restaurant?

Santa Fe is lucky to have so many restaurants but one thing I’ve learned is that the restaurant business can be very wasteful. I do my best to minimize waste and have sustainable practices, such as recycling and composting. I work with a great company called Reunity Resources who collects and recycles my oil waste into biofuels and my food waste into high-nutrient compost that they use on their community farm.

Nothing! I cook all of my favorite things at the restaurant. That’s pretty much what the menu consists of. I like to enjoy the evenings outside the kitchen eating other people’s food. I have to make sure I keep a good balance in life and spend some quality time with my kids. If I cook at home, it’s something super simple, like a salad with a pan-seared fish on top.

What is the hardest part about running a restaurant? What is the best part?

Describe a perfect day of eating in Santa Fe.

The best part is seeing a dining room full of people engaging in conversation, gathering over a freshly prepared food and feeling the comfort of home. Also on Sundays, when we open a little later, there is a line of returning customers that forms in front of our door. I think that’s every restaurateur's dream come true.

Waking up in the morning and grabbing a cappuccino at Opuntia, on my way out purchasing one of their beautiful potted plants to bring to the restaurant. After that, I would go over to Cafe Pasquals for my absolute favorite cheese blintzes. For lunch I’d visit La Choza and get the best green chile enchiladas in the world (with garlic bread to dip in the green chile and melted cheese), and after digesting all of that, I would head over to Joseph’s culinary pub and have my favorite combination of tuna poke with avocado and mango, and a side of duck fat fries. Yeah…

What is your favorite kitchen tool?

What are your favorite activities outside of the kitchen?

Definitely my poppy seed grinder! Poppy seeds are a big part of Slovakian cooking and baking. When I started Dolina I only had a small hand grinder that my mother sent me from Slovakia. It took a lot of time and energy to crush seeds into a paste—and only in small amounts. But I did it because there’s nothing like the flavor and aroma of warm poppy seed strudel or a poppy seed cake when it comes out of the oven. It reminds me of home. At the time, there was no way I could afford one of the large electric grinders. They cost thousands of dollars. Then one day one of my customers offered to buy me one

Running in the woods with my two boxers, Hazel and Bruno, making friendship bracelets with my daughter Ella, riding bikes with my son Luca, and sharing meals with my friends.

The hardest part is finding a healthy balance between family life and running the business.

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

Is there anything else you'd like to share with edible readers? I would just like to remind everyone to take the time to share a good meal with loved ones—put away your phones and enjoy good food and good conversation! 402 N Guadalupe, Santa Fe, 505-982-9394, dolinasantafe.com

LVL 5 executive chef c h r i s t i a n M o n c h ât r e Hotel Chaco is proud to welcome a new Executive Chef at our rooftop restaurant. Born in Paris, Monchâtre began his career in his family owned restaurant in the Loire Valley, France. He brings to Level 5 the experience of leading top restaurants in California, Italy, Germany & Mexico. Winner of “Chef of the Year” & “Medal of the Chevalier of Merit,” he is also a member of Academie Culinaire de Françe. We invite you to come taste his sophisticated new menu.

Breakfast 7am-11am

Lunch 11am-2pm

Dinner 4:30PM-11pm

Weekend Brunch 7am-2pm

in Hotel Chaco | 2000 Bellamah Ave NW, Albuquerque | 505 318 3998 | hotelchaco.com

A nEW experience FEATURING new mexico’s premier wines and spirits

at Hotel Chaco open 2pm – 8pm | 7 days a week 2000 Bellamah Ave NW | 505.246.9989 | HoTelChaco.com

WILD THING

What’s at Stake NEW MEXICO STREAM ACCESS Story and Photos by Katie DeLorenzo

A private fence restricts access to public water across a stretch of the Pecos River. Photo by Katie DeLorenzo.

Many Americans don’t fully understand that they—we—are the beneficiaries of a birthright that consists of six hundred forty million acres of public land and countless wetlands, lakes, streams, rivers, and beaches. The money in your bank account and the deeds you hold are irrelevant compared to these jointly owned public assets, all held in public trust to benefit us in ways too innumerable to count and too precious to quantify. You simply can’t put a price on the clean air and water safeguarded by healthy ecosystems or the thrill of a native Rio Grande cutthroat trout striking your fly in a clear mountain stream. In addition, many New Mexicans depend directly on traditional public land use for their livelihoods and sustenance. Theodore Roosevelt helped give shape to the American ideal of the democracy of public lands by directing us to “Preserve large tracts of 22

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wilderness . . . for the exercise of the skill of the hunter, whether or not he is a man of means.” While it may seem that ownership of and access to our public lands and waters is everlasting, the opposite is true. Our inheritance is under constant threat from development and privatization. Well-funded special interests have much to gain by acquiring natural resources in the West, especially as population growth, climate instability, and other factors make these resources more limited and valuable. In addition, our rich tapestry of public lands is inextricably woven together with private lands and leased public lands. Many private landowners are stewards of their working lands and the cultural heritage they sustain. These private lands often benefit us all by

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WILD THING

DeLorenzo with a rainbow trout which inhabit public waters and are held in trust for the benefit of the public. Photos by Katie DeLorenzo.

enhancing habitat, connecting wildlife corridors, providing refuge, and protecting indispensable watersheds for downstream users. Against this backdrop, the question of public stream access has recently surfaced for all New Mexicans. The fundamental issue is whether or not the public has the right to fish and wade or float in waters that flow through private land, provided that the recreationists do not trespass to reach them and respect adjacent, privately owned stream banks. Our state constitution enshrines our right of ownership to “the unappropriated water of every natural stream, perennial or torrential, within the state of New Mexico.” The public’s right to access our waters for beneficial uses, including fishing and other forms of recreation, has been established since statehood and has since been bolstered by the 1945 Red River Valley case and the opinions of multiple attorneys general, including Gary King and Hector Balderas. Some opponents of stream access contend that although New Mexicans do “in fact” have access to the water, the streambed is privately owned. They contend that accessing the water running through their land infringes on their private property rights. In 2015, Senate Bill 226 passed the State Legislature by a narrow margin, giving the state game commission the authority to declare stretches of water as non-navigable in an attempt to exclude the public from using public water. In 2018, stretches of the Pecos, Chama, Peñasco, Mimbres, 24

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and Alamosa rivers were certified as “non-navigable” and thus offlimits to the public. Many more have barbed wire and “No Trespassing” signs suspended above the flowing water. Ownership arguments aside, upholding public access for recreational use of our streams makes sense economically. New Mexico has a $9.9 billion outdoor recreation economy and in 2018 we became the twelfth state to establish an outdoor recreation division to support this dynamic segment of our economy. Outdoor recreation, including fishing and rafting, helps rural communities by providing needed jobs and allowing local businesses to prosper. However, we know that with great rights come great responsibilities. Increased access and recreational opportunity must be balanced with conservation initiatives to benefit riparian and aquatic habitats and the many species that inhabit them. Additional law enforcement, regulations and self-policing would also play an important role in protecting our waters from overfishing and littering. On July 24, 2019, the New Mexico State Game Commission issued a ninety-day moratorium on the existing stream access regulation in anticipation of yet another opinion from New Mexico’s attorney general. While there are many passionate opinions around stream access, I urge you to learn about it and decide for yourself. After all, it’s your land, your water, and your wildlife.

M O D E R N S O U T H W E S T E R N CUIS INE ELO I SASANTAFE. CO M 505.982.0883 | 228 E PALACE AVE, SANTA FE

1005 S. St. Francis, Suite 101 | 505-984-1582 sfwineandspirits.com | Mon–Sat, 10am–8pm ruby trout atop a bed of calabacitas risotto

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FORAGED

Crazy for Crabapples By Ellen Zachos

Crabapples in the fall. Photo by Ellen Zachos.

I grew up thinking crabapples were poisonous. (I also grew up thinking life was fair and goodness would be rewarded, so go figure). After all, I never saw anybody eat crabapples, and why would people let all that pretty fruit go to waste if it was worth eating? As an adult, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve learned a thing or two about both food and life, and fortunately, crabapples turn out not only to be edible, but versatile and delicious. Crabapple trees flourish in New Mexico. They make great street trees, excellent garden plants, and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll often find them in the wild, where birds have obligingly deposited crabapple seeds. Like regular apples, crabs are in the genus Malus. The primary difference between crabapples and regular apples is that crabapples are small; any apple with a diameter of less than two inches is considered a crab. The juice of underripe crabapples can be used in place of lemon juice. Traditionally this is called verjus (French for green, as in unripe 26

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juice). Underripe crabapples also contain loads of pectin, so if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a jelly maker who would rather not use store-bought pectin, crabapples may turn out to be your very best friend. The flavor of different crabapples varies widely, just as it does among larger apples. Some crabs are extremely sour, and some have a grainy texture. Most crabapples contain lots of tannins, which give them a slightly bitter and astringent flavor. If this sounds like a bad thing, remember that tannins add complexity to teas, coffees, whiskeys, and wines. And if you happen to be a cider maker, adding a few tart crabapples to sweet apples makes for a more interesting beverage. Fully ripe crabapples will never be sweet, but they will be sweeter than unripe fruit, so let them stay on the tree until fully colored, but harvest before they start to shrivel. Large crabapples (with a diameter greater than one inch) usually have better texture than smaller fruit,

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FORAGED and can be eaten raw or pickled. Even small crabapples with a less than alluring texture still have plenty of culinary value. Make a syrup to use as a base for sorbet and ice cream, or combine that syrup with your favorite bourbon to make a classic fall cocktail like the Kentucky Belle. The combination of tart fruit and sweet whiskey is terrific. Cooking obliterates any textural issues you might have with small crabapples, so use them in cakes, applesauce, and fruit leather. You’ll

need to adjust the sweetener if you’re using a traditional apple recipe, since crabapples are almost always more sour than larger apples. Next time you pass a crabapple tree with ripe fruit, taste one. Yes, it will be sour, but imagine that tartness tempered with a little sugar, a few spices, and maybe a little booze. Then you’ll understand why my kitchen is full of crabapple juice, crabapple sauce, crabapple chutney, and crabapple syrup. Cheers!

Photo by Ellen Zachos.

THE KENTUCKY BELLE COCKTAIL 2 ounces bourbon 1 1/2 ounces crabapple syrup (see below) 1 1/2 ounces ginger ale Ice In a shaker full of ice, combine your favorite bourbon with crabapple syrup. Shake for 30 seconds, then strain into a coupe. Top with ginger ale, or use ginger beer for a less sweet, spicier beverage.

CRABAPPLE SYRUP 4 cups crabapples, whole, unpeeled 1 cup sugar Harvest at least 4 cups of crabapples to make this worth your while. Rinse fruit and transfer it to a large saucepan. 28

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Add just enough water to cover fruit, then bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes, until crabapples are soft enough to mash with a potato masher. Mash. Turn off the heat, and let the crabapples cool slightly. Pour fruit into a jelly bag (or a strainer lined with cheesecloth), set over a bowl, and let juice drain. Don’t squeeze jelly bag or your syrup may be cloudy. Measure the strained juice, and pour it into a clean saucepan. For every cup of juice, add one cup of sugar. Whisk sugar and juice together over medium heat until sugar is completely dissolved. Simmer syrup for five minutes, then remove from heat and allow to cool. Pour cooled syrup into bottles or jars and refrigerate. The syrup will keep in refrigerator for several months.

115 Harvard SE Albuquerque 505-219-2001 saltandboard.com

FERMENTI'S PARADOX

Hard Kombucha A NUANCED APPROACH TO CRAFT BREWING Story and Photos by Robert Salas

CEO of HoneyMoon Brewery, Ayla Bystrom-Williams.

If you’ve been in a health food store—or any grocery store, for that matter—within the last decade, then you’ve probably heard of a fizzy, tea-based, gut-booster called kombucha. Although the health benefits of kombucha remain scientifically unconfirmed, anecdotally people rave about its ability to improve digestive health, enhance energy, promote weight loss, and detoxify. HoneyMoon Brewery in Santa Fe is running with the growing popularity of kombucha and taking it to the next level, brewing the first “hard” or alcoholic kombucha in the Southwest. The notion of brewing hard kombucha is nothing new, but it’s been confined mostly to homebrewers’ kitchens. To make any kombucha, a SCOBY, or symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast, is added to brewed tea and cane sugar. The concoction is then left to ferment for a week to a month. Most kombuchas are then fermented for a second time, where additional flavorings from fruits and spices are 30

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added. Kombucha naturally produces alcohol as a byproduct of the fermentation process, but the alcohol content of most kombucha at the store is miniscule, typically containing no more than .5 percent alcohol by volume. To make a “hard” kombucha, which some alcoholic-kombucha brewers claim share the same health benefits of its non-alcoholic counterpart, the tea mixture is fermented for a second time with additional yeast and sugar added, which produces the higher alcohol content. As we live through the golden age of craft beer, with a new brewery popping up every week, a little change could be a good thing. Santa Fe native and CEO of HoneyMoon Brewery, Ayla Bystrom-Williams, agrees. Bystrom-Williams loves fermented foods and is an avid enjoyer of craft beer. She says that kombucha and craft beer aren’t that different from each other, but kombucha offers more custom variation when it comes to the brewing process. “It’s kind of like a Belgium-style beer in

Saturday, October 19, 2019 10am - 4pm, at the GutiĂŠrrez-Hubbell House in Albuquerque

nmfermentationfest.com Join us at the fourth annual Fermentation Fest to explore cider, wine, pickles, kraut, salami, beer, cheese, spirits, kombucha, kefir, sourdough, mead, hot sauce, sake, kimchi, koji, coffee, chocolate, and more.

Proceeds benefit the Hubbell House Alliance and the Bernco Quality of Life Community Fund.

edible

FERMENTI'S PARADOX

that we welcome wild yeast and spontaneous fermentation,” she says of her hard kombucha. “With such a low starting pH, we are able to be more fluid and flexible during our brewing process as opposed to the beer brewing process.” Bystrom-Williams’s initial interest in brewing kombucha sprouted from her passion for yoga and health foods. She wanted to relax and imbibe before her yoga classes, but found that beer was a bit too heavy. So she turned toward kombucha, which at the time wasn’t regulated and contained more alcohol than today’s store-bought versions. “I needed something that would be able to give me a little buzz and something that was more health focused,” Bystrom-Williams says. “After experimenting with homebrewed craft beer, I decided I wanted to give it a go and brew an adult version of kombucha.” In 2014, Bystrom-Williams and her business partner and head brewer, James Hill, decided to do some market research to see if opening a hard kombucha brewery was a viable concept. They learned that people wanted alternative options to craft beer, but still wanted to enjoy the social and community driven aspects of brewery culture. “We wanted to offer something special to all of the underserved markets: gluten-sensitive drinkers, low ABV drinkers, kombucha fans, sour beer aficionados, and anyone just looking for a refreshing twist on their night out,” says Bystrom-Williams. With help from the Los Alamos Small Business Assistance Program, Bystrom-Williams and Hill were finally able to make their dream a reality. HoneyMoon Brewery officially opened in December 2018. Bystrom-Williams says they couldn’t have done it without the resources provided by the incubator program. “The Los Alamos Business Assistance Program really helped with providing the technical expertise we needed to get started. They truly care about building small businesses and cultivating a strong local economy,” she says. HoneyMoon Brewery is bright and warm with chic, eclectic décor. 32

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According to Bystrom-Williams, almost all the furniture was made locally. Paintings and photographs by renowned artists from around the globe hang on the walls. “We intentionally did not want to have TVs on the walls,” she says. “We want to create an open, welcoming and somewhat minimalist space where people can enjoy each other’s company and truly have an organic human-to-human connection.” Head brewer Hill has created a diverse menu of hard kombuchas that range in flavor from citrus and fragrant to sweet and fruity. The lemon-ginger Camellia Blanca is a good option for kombucha lovers who want to try the hard version. The lemon comes through strong and tart while the ginger adds a pungent spiciness. With an ABV of 5.4 percent, you can experience a subtle warmth from the alcohol. If you’re looking to try something different, Hill has created a hard kombucha that takes the flavors of a classic margarita and mixes it with the muskiness of kombucha. This concoction is lime-forward with a bit of a salty finish, similar to a gose-style beer. “We wanted to create something that kombucha drinkers could already relate to while at the same time creating brews that are really approachable for crossover drinkers, like those who are used to drinking craft beer.” HoneyMoon offers flight options and, for those who do not yet want to stray from craft beer, HoneyMoon also offers a selection of rotating local craft beer guest taps. Bystrom-Williams says that HoneyMoon is a place where craft beer and hard kombucha can collide in harmony and create a space where all are welcome. “As a new mom, I want people to know that everyone is welcome here,” she says. “And that having a kid doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy a night out with your friends and family.” 907 W Alameda, Santa Fe, 505-303-3139 honeymoonbrewery.com

Everything for Your Garden

Veggies, Fruit Trees, Flowers, Shrubs & Perennials Located on the SW Corner of 4th St & Alameda Blvd Open Daily 9:00 AM–5:30PM

505.898.3562 AlamedaGreenhouseABQ.com 9515 4th St NW ■ Albuquerque, NM 87114

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Dinner: Tues-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm

Join us for dinner, weekend brunch and visit our website to find out about upcoming special dinners!

COOKING FRESH

Thanksgiving WITH NEW MEXICAN FLARE By Stephanie Cameron

Whole Roasted Cabbage with Gravy.

In this Cooking Fresh, we are spicing up Thanksgiving with a little New Mexican flare. All these veggie-forward dishes can easily be converted to vegan options. The whole roasted cabbage is a great replace34

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ment for a bird on the table and can become the centerpiece of your meal, while red and green chile gives many of these sides a kick. Let the festivities begin!

RED CHILE-INFUSED HONEY BUTTERNUT SQUASH TART 1 sheet of frozen puff pastry, thawed (from a 17.3-ounce package) 1 large egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water 1 butternut squash, peeled and cut into 12 1/8-inch-thick rounds Kosher salt 1/4 cup honey 4 red chile pods, stems and seeds removed and torn into 1-inch pieces 3 tablespoons olive oil 1/4 cup shaved Parmesan 1 teaspoon red chile caribe Black pepper

Serves 8 Preheat oven to 375Â°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Gently roll out 1 sheet of thawed puff pastry on a lightly floured surface to a 10-inch square (just enough to even out). Transfer to prepared sheet. Brush pastry with 1 large egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water. Arrange 12 butternut squash rounds over the pastry, overlapping as needed, and leaving a 1/2-inch border. Place another sheet of parchment paper over squash. Set another large rimmed baking sheet over the tart. (This will weigh down the pastry dough and steam the squash slices.) Bake until the bottom of pastry begins to brown and top begins to puff up, about 10 minutes. Remove top baking sheet and discard top sheet of parchment paper. Brush squash slices with 1 tablespoon olive oil and season with kosher salt. Return tart, uncovered, to oven and bake until pastry is deep golden brown and cooked through, 25â&#x20AC;&#x201C;30 minutes. Meanwhile, combine 1/4 cup honey, red chile pod pieces, and 2 tablespoons water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Boil until slightly thickened and syrupy, about 6 minutes. Slice tart. Arrange 1/4 cup shaved Parmesan on top; drizzle with chile-infused honey. Garnish with red chile caribe and a few grinds of black pepper.

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COOKING FRESH CHICO GREEN CHILE CHOWDER 1 cup chicos 5 cups water 2 pounds potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes 1/3 cup green chile (roasted, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped) 1 cup onion, finely chopped 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 4 cups vegetable broth 1/4 cup butter 1/4 cup flour 3 cups milk Cilantro for garnish

TAMALE STUFFING 6 green chiles 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 large zucchinis, cubed 1 small onion, diced 1 pound mushrooms 8 ounces diced tomatoes (canned or fresh) 3 garlic cloves 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon pepper 1 teaspoon ground cumin 2 teaspoons chorizo spice blend (available at Savory Spice Shop) 3 tablespoons sherry cooking wine 1 cup cilantro, divided 1 1/3 cups vegetable shortening 2 teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons salt 3 1/2 cups masa harina 1 cup low-sodium vegetable broth 8 large corn husks 3 tablespoons cotija cheese

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

Serves 8 Soak chicos in cold water overnight. Using the same soaking water, simmer chicos over a low flame for 3 hours, until the small wrinkly kernels begin to pop, puffing up to the size of fresh kernels. Drain and set aside. While chicos are cooking, start working on the chowder. Combine green chile, onion, potatoes, salt, pepper, and broth in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer 20 minutes. Strain liquid, reserving 3 cups. Mash the potatoes, chile, and onion with a large fork, or pulse in a food processor. Melt butter over low heat in a large saucepan and add flour slowly, while whisking, to make a roux. Whisk reserved cooking liquid into the roux. Raise heat, stirring with the whisk until thickened. Add milk and continue to whisk until it comes to a simmer. Turn off heat. Add mashed mixture and blend well. Stir in chicos and serve. Garnish with cilantro.

Serves 8–12 Preheat the broiler. Place chiles on a baking sheet and broil, turning occasionally to blacken all sides, about 5–7 minutes. Remove from broiler, reduce oven to 375°F, and cover green chiles with a towel; set aside to steam, about 3 minutes. Peel blackened skin, remove stems and seeds, and dice. Heat a large skillet to medium-high heat and add olive oil. Add onions and sauté until light and translucent, about 3 minutes, then add garlic, zucchini, mushrooms, tomatoes, salt, pepper, cumin, and chorizo spice blend. Sauté until golden and cooked through (about 5 minutes), but take care not to overcook; mushrooms and zucchini should retain their shape. Add sherry and toss, continuing to cook until absorbed (about 3 minutes). Remove from heat. Combine vegetable shortening, baking powder, and 2 teaspoons of salt in a large bowl, and mix with a wooden spoon until combined. Whisk the masa harina, 2 cups hot water, and broth in a separate bowl; add to the lard mixture and mix until smooth, then combine vegetable mixture, green chiles, and 1/2 cup cilantro with masa mixture. Run corn husks under warm water until soft and pliable. Line a 9x13-inch pan by crossing one husk over the other and allowing the husks to go up the sides of the pan. Spoon in masa mixture. Layer additional husks over the filling, tucking them in to seal. Cover with aluminum foil and bake until the filling is set, about 1 hour 20 minutes, uncovering halfway through. Serve warm, garnished with cotija cheese and remaining 1/2 cup cilantro. For an extra kick, serve with your favorite red chile sauce.

COOKING FRESH WHOLE ROASTED CABBAGE WITH GRAVY Cabbage 1 large head cabbage 3 tablespoons butter, melted 1 tablespoon dijon mustard 2 teaspoons maple syrup 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder Kosher salt Black pepper, freshly ground 2 stalks celery, cut into quarters 2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into thirds 1 small yellow onion, cut into quarters 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon fresh sage, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped 1/2 cup low-sodium vegetable broth, divided 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped for garnish Gravy 4 tablespoons butter 1/2 onion, finely chopped 4 ounces cremini mushrooms, finely chopped 1 teaspoon fresh sage, chopped 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, chopped 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 1/4 cups low-sodium vegetable broth

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

Adapted from Lena Abraham Serves 8 as a side, serves 4 as a main course Preheat oven to 400Â°F. Cut the stem off cabbage so it can sit flat. In a medium bowl, whisk together melted butter, mustard, maple syrup, Worcestershire, and garlic powder, and season liberally with salt and pepper. In a large bowl, combine celery, carrots, onion, oil, and chopped herbs. Season with salt and pepper and toss to coat. Place vegetable mixture in a large cast-iron skillet. Nestle cabbage in the center, on top of the vegetables, and brush all over with half the melted butter mixture. Pour half of the vegetable broth into the skillet and cover the cabbage with aluminum foil. Bake for 45 minutes. After 45 minutes, remove foil and brush with remaining butter mixture. Add remaining 1/4 cup broth and return to oven uncovered. Bake until cabbage is tender and slightly charred, 45 minutes more. Pierce cabbage with a paring knife to check if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ready. Meanwhile, make gravy. In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. Add onion and cook, stirring until soft, about 6 minutes. Stir in mushrooms and herbs and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are soft and golden, about 4 minutes. Stir in flour and cook 1 minute more, then whisk in 3 cups of broth and bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer until mixture has thickened to desired consistency, about 5 minutes. Slice cabbage into large wedges and serve with gravy. Garnish with parsley and serve hot.

Santa Fe

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BURQUE

10701 Corrales Rd. NW

899-7500

11225 Montgomery NE

271-0882

3403 Central NE

266-7855

Edible Mag - 7.5” x 4.75”

COOKING FRESH MUSHROOM SALAD WITH LENTILS 2 pounds medley of raw mushrooms, cleaned and cut into small pieces 2 tablespoons butter 2 large onions, chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup dry black lentils 3/4 cups vegetable broth 1/4 cup piñon nuts 1/4 cup capers 1/8 cup red chile caribe 3 cups arugula Chopped chives for garnish

CRABAPPLE WHISKEY CAKE 3 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking soda 1 teaspoon salt 1 1/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon 2 sticks unsalted butter, softened 2 cups packed, light brown sugar 1/4 cup honey 2 large eggs 2/3 cup whiskey, divided in half 2 cups crabapple sauce* Nonstick cooking spray Confectioner’s sugar (optional)

Adapted from Viktoria’s Table Serves 8 Sauté mushrooms in 2 tablespoons of butter with salt, pepper, and red chile caribe until completely cooked. Sauté the onion in the olive oil on medium heat until caramelized, about 10–15 minutes. Boil the broth, add salt and dry lentils, and cook for about 20 minutes, or until the lentils are cooked through, but still firm in shape. Assemble the salad by mixing the cooked lentils, mushrooms, and onions in a large bowl. Mix in the capers and piñon nuts. Serve over a bed of arugula. Sprinkle with chives.

Recipe by Ellen Zachos (see page 26) Serves 8 Preheat oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, combine flour, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. Set aside. With an electric mixer, beat softened butter, brown sugar, and honey until light and fluffy. Continuing to beat, add the eggs and 1/3 cup of whiskey. With mixer on low, pour in dry ingredients, and beat until just combined. Add the applesauce and continue to beat until well blended. Use nonstick spray to coat a 9-inch tube pan, then spoon the batter into the pan and smooth the top. Bake for 50–60 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the middle of the pan comes out clean. Cool cake in the pan for 10 minutes, then turn it out onto a cutting board or baking sheet. Next, invert the cake onto a wire rack, top side facing up, to let the cake cool completely. While the cake is cooling, pour remaining 1/3 cup of whiskey around the top of the cake, so it will be evenly absorbed. Dust with confectioner’s sugar or serve with whipped cream or ice cream. *If you have a favorite applesauce recipe, use that, but substitute crabapples for apples. If you don’t have a favorite applesauce recipe, try this one: backyardforager.com/crabapple-sauce-recipe

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

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FACES OF FOOD

Learning from the Land MOLLY MENDENHALL OF FOUR MOONS FARM By Robin Babb · Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Molly Mendenhall harvesting chile peppers.

Four Moons Farm, a one-acre farm and homestead in Los Lunas, brims with life. Wildflowers and big bushes of lavender grow in the beds in front of the sprawling house. There are three hoop houses full of tomatoes on the south side of the property, and three dogs of disparate sizes barking at me from the backyard. White cabbage moths flitter through dense rows of kale and sunflowers, and dandelions populate almost every open inch of space. I hear the unmistakable call of a turkey from behind the house. This lush landscape feels far from the desert. 42

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

I watch Molly Mendenhall push a shovel into the dirt to loosen up a row of shallots, some of which have already started to send up their alien-looking flowers. Following along behind her, I pull them out of the ground, shaking them gently to scatter off the soil that clings to their roots. The sharp smell of alliums gets heavier as they come out of the ground. It’s just past eight in the morning and it’s already hot, and more humid than in the city because we’re so close to the river. Mendenhall will be out here working until about five. Her deep tan and the holes

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in her overalls say she’s been doing this for a while. That, and the fact that she knows what she’s doing. “Yeah, you can kind of grow anything here,” says Mendenhall when I comment on the great soil. “When I first looked at the property I thought, ‘this looks like some Rio Rancho beach sand, nothing is going to grow here.’ It is light in color, and super sandy with very little clay. It doesn’t stick to your shoes when it’s wet. It is well drained without being devoid of organic matter. It has consistently out-performed every other field I’ve worked.” She’s lucky to have it, certainly—but it still requires a skilled hand to make things grow. Mendenhall grew up in Albuquerque’s North Valley, where some of her family still lives, and studied evolutionary psychology at UNM. She didn’t finish the degree, though. “I dropped out after three years when I realized what a job in the field would actually look like [more time spent in a classroom than doing research in the field], and that I’d have to take on some debt to pursue a higher degree in order to qualify for any such job. Which begged the question, what do I want my day-to-day routine to look like?” Throughout school Mendenhall had also been making and selling jewelry, which she scaled up to full time when she dropped out. She admits that it wasn’t exactly a passion of hers, but more an “accidental career”—she never really wore much jewelry herself, and only kept making it because people kept buying it. She moved to Bosque Farms in 2010 to start gardening in earnest, and quickly came up with the idea to start a small CSA. For three years she kept up both the jewelry business and the CSA while she learned more about farming. With her dad, she bought the farm in Los Lunas, where farming quickly became her full-time job. “The jewelry was something different to me than it was to my customers,” Mendenhall says. “An eggplant, on the other hand, has a far more simple and straightforward function.” Instead of apprenticing or working on somebody else’s farm for a few years, Mendenhall jumped into operating her own farm headfirst. This kind of education means that she’s developed her own ways of 44

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

doing everything. For pest control, she keeps a few turkeys on the farm. They eat bugs, but unlike chickens, don’t scratch up her carefully-planted rows when they do so. This year she started using a new method of trellising her tomato plants inside hoop houses that will, she hopes, make for easier harvesting. By talking with other farmers at the weekend markets, she’s found that just about everyone does things differently—so maybe figuring things out for yourself isn’t such a bad way to learn. Of course, she’s also learned some things by making mistakes. For years, she was storing her harvest and bringing it to market in portable coolers, just like the ones you grab beer out of at a barbeque. This made for limited storage capacity, and Mendenhall often had leftover vegetables going to seed and rotting in the fields. “I don’t know why it took me so long to get a walk-in [cooler]—it’s a total game changer,” she says. “If you get your ass kicked hard enough you remember the lesson.” When the row of shallots is empty, we load them all on a hand truck and take them under the awning to bundle and hang them to cure in the house’s rafters. Mendenhall lives in a big three-bedroom house on her own—that is, besides the three dogs and the pet squirrel who keep her company. “I found him on the ground when he was just a tiny baby,” she says of the squirrel, who she now couldn’t return to the wild if she tried. “I probably should have just let nature take its course, but . . . ” she shrugs. It’s a nontraditional pet for a farmer, for sure, but Mendenhall isn’t exactly a standard farmer. I am sure she had doubts along the way about doing it all on her own—planting, harvesting, getting everything to market, and making ends meet. But after almost ten years of farming, I suspect that those doubts have gotten a lot quieter in her mind. If there’s anything else she needs to learn, she knows that the land will teach her. facebook.com/fourmoonsfarm

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Executive Chef Allison Jenkins of Arroyo Vino.

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

Arroyo Vino seeks out ingredients from farmers and purveyors of quality produce, locally sourced when they can, including from their own on-site garden. Allison Jenkins joined Arroyo Vino as executive chef in 2018, after a fifteen-year culinary career that began with an externship at Coyote Café in 2002. After graduating in 2003 from the Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, Jenkins worked at the Coach House in Martha’s Vineyard for two years. Her career has also taken her to the Little Nell Hotel and Ajax Tavern in Aspen, laV Restaurant & Wine Bar in Austin, and the game-changing Hotel Saint George in Marfa. She is now delighted to be back cooking in Santa Fe, at one of the city’s most outstanding restaurants. 218 Camino La Tierra, Santa Fe, 505.983.2100, arroyovino.com

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EIGHT AROUND THE STATE

Craft Distilleries and Craft Cocktails By Stephanie and Walt Cameron

Publishers Stephanie and Walt Cameron are sharing some of their favorite finds around New Mexico in edible’s newest department, Eight Around the State. For this issue, they searched for distilleries with great craft cocktails. The craft cocktail movement has slowly made its way into New Mexico and the distilleries are leading the way. Every batch of spirit and every cocktail these distilleries are making is truly artisanal and created by hand with love. We would love to hear about our readers’ favorite eats around the state. Drop us an email at info@ediblenm.com with your best finds from anywhere in the Land of Enchantment.

Glencoe GLENCOE DISTILLERY What we are drinking: Miles 2 Go with vodka, coffee liqueur, cream, nutmeg, and amped up with smoke and cinnamon hit with a flame. Worth noting: The team at Glencoe really puts on a show and offers true western hospitality. It is so much fun to watch mixologist Josh Graham light anything on fire that he can get his hands on. If you have an affinity for smoked cocktails, this is the place to be. Find: 27495 US-70, Glencoe

Albuquerque STILL SPIRITS What we are drinking: Lapsang Bourbon with bourbon infused with Lapsang Souchong tea, rhubarb, lemon, and angostura. Worth noting: For their whiskey, instead of using wheat or rye, Still Spirits has opted for the locally available triticale, a hearty Scottish grain. The aesthetic of Still Spirits is low-key and casual—definitely a space you will enjoy as much as the cocktail in your hand. Find: 120 Marble Avenue NW, Albuquerque

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

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Taos ROLLING STILL What we are drinking: Violet Fog with lavender-infused vodka, butterfly pea blossom, lemon, honey, and egg white. Worth noting: The menu highlights Rolling Still’s special vodka infusions that celebrate the flavors and culture of New Mexico, such as red chile, green chile, and a fusion of ponderosa and juniper. Cocktails are created with ingredients sourced from local farms and other local spirits in addition to their vodka. Great spaces to hang out inside and out. Find: 110 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos

Santa Fe TUMBLEROOT BREWERY & DISTILLERY What we are drinking: Kashmir Cocktail with agave spirit, lime, and turmeric. Worth noting: Tumbleroot uses one-hundred-percent organic ingredients, and when flavoring spirits after distillation, they only use organic, garden-grown, and wild-harvested ingredients. While we were visiting we got to try the limited edition of Mojito Brew, which was created by fermenting Tumbleroot rum, lime, and mint together—it’s somewhere between a beer and spirit at twelve percent alcohol. Find: Distillery & Tap Room, 32 Bisbee Court, Santa Fe Taproom and Event Space, 2791 Agua Fria Street, Santa Fe

Silver City LITTLE TOAD CREEK BREWERY & DISTILLERY What we are drinking: Paloma made with TeGila (an agave spirit), grapefruit juice, and soda with a salted rim. Worth noting: Little Toad Creek is the community hub for Silver City. With spirits, beer, food, and entertainment, they’ve got all the bases covered. They put on community events throughout the year, including Oktoaderfest, Halloween costume contests, a New Year’s Eve party, and a Mardi Gras carnival. They also throw the annual Spring Toad Fest. Find: 200 N Bullard Street, Silver City—and they have a taproom in Las Cruces, as well.

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Mesilla DRY POINT DISTILLERS What we are drinking: Muddle Heart with cacao vodka, house-made Frangelico, and lemon. Worth noting: In addition to distilling vodka, gin, and whiskey, Dry Point has several immature brandies. Los Pasos Brandy is made from one hundred-percent local wine sourced from Rio Grande Vineyards and Winery, located only four miles from Dry Point Distillers. Find: 1680 Calle de Alvarez, Las Cruces

Albuquerque SAFE HOUSE DISTILLING CO. What we are drinking: Bitter Bonnie with Teller Vodka, lemon, ginger, oleo saccharin (macerated citrus peels in sugar), and angostura bitters float. Worth noting: As one of the newest distilleries on the scene, you will only find vodka cocktails here. Drinks highlight lots of creative concoctions, house-made vodka infusions, and house-made ginger beer. With a play on the origins of the original building (former National Cash Register Company), the menu features cleverly named cocktails like Dillinger’s Pride, Gluttonous Patty, and Ghosted Cassidy, as well as decor reminiscent of the banking days of yore. Find: 616 Gold Ave SW, Albuquerque

Santa Fe SANTA FE SPIRITS What we are drinking: Sangre de Margarita with Silver Coyote White Whiskey, lemon, lime, orange-infused apple brandy, and agave. Worth noting: Santa Fe Spirit’s Atapiño Liqueur is a must-try. Santa Fe Spirits roasts the piñon nuts and puts them into a barrel to soak in Silver Coyote single malt white whiskey for two months to extract the essence of the piñon. The result is a full-bodied, uniquely satisfying liqueur perfect for an autumn evening. Find: Downtown Tasting Room, 308 Read Street, Santa Fe Distillery & Tasting Room, 7505 Mallard Way, Santa Fe

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The Future of Grassfed SUSTAINABLE RANCHING IN THE EL MORRO VALLEY By Michael Dax Â· Photos by Stephanie Cameron

El Morro National Monument.

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

onsidering New Mexico is the fifth largest state, perhaps @TravelNewMexico it’s not surprising that certain corners of the Land of Enchantment remain far from the beaten path. However, that El Morro Valley remains one of them probably is, or at least should be. Turning south from I-40, NM-53 cuts through El Malpais National Monument, crosses the Continental Divide Trail, bypasses a (very well-advertised) ice cave, and comes within eyeshot of El Morro National Monument’s feature attraction before an inconspicuous road turns back north just after another turnoff with signs for the Wild Spirit Wolf Sanctuary. The highway traverses sagebrush steppe and meanders through savannahs of ponderosa pine, but when it’s time to turn north, the dramatic red rock features of west central New Mexico emerge along with the piñon-juniper forests that typically accompany them. With the dark, flat-topped Zuni Mountains providing the backdrop, the dusty road twists and curves through a narrow notch in the pockmarked sandstone buttes before opening into El Morro Valley proper, trading the scrubby conifers for open grasslands. If you keep driving to the base of the mountains, you may be lucky enough to find ranchers Charles Mallery and Rebecca Allina, who run El Morro Valley Ranch and have been at the forefront of New Mexico’s movement to promote sustainable ranching through local, grassfed and grass-finished beef. Grassfed beef ’s portion of the American meat market has expanded rapidly over the past decade. Compared to the more typical “supermarket” beef, which may spend part of its life on grasslands but is eventually fattened up and finished on corn or other grains at a regional feedlot, grassfed beef spends its entire life on open rangeland in order to more closely adhere to the food and conditions that cattle and other ruminates evolved with. For some consumers, the main benefit of grassfed beef is the taste. “The native grasses impart a richness in flavor,” says Mallery. “Because all of our grasses are slow growing, they’re not watery.” But beyond taste, there are numerous health and environmental benefits that advocates champion as well. According to a recent study, grassfed beef contains higher levels of good fatty acids, antioxidants, and other vitamins. Advocates point out that besides keeping cows

out of environmentally impactful feedlots, rotationally grazed cows can have regenerative effects on formerly depleted rangelands. In addition to benefits to soils, wildlife, and watersheds, carbon sequestration has become a goal for many ranchers. Over the past decade, these efforts have proved fruitful. In 2012, retail sales of grassfed beef hovered around $17 million. As of this year, sales had reached $480 million. Mallery grew up just a few miles east of the ranch, which he began purchasing in 1976. At the time, the only improvements on the land were the homestead cabin and barn, which he retrofitted into a woodworking studio and garage for restoring classic Citroën cars. Mallery first put the land to use breeding horses, eventually adding a few head of cattle to the operation. A homebuilding business temporarily stole his focus, but after meeting Allina, they turned their attention back to the ranch. Allina had moved from California after falling in love with the area, and met Mallery when he started building her house less than a mile from his own. As it turned out, the two fell in love, and by the time her house was finished, Allina moved in with Mallery instead. As much as anything, the decision to ranch full-time was about the lifestyle and remaining close to the land they both love. “I like to say that we work hard but live well,” says Allina. “It feels clean, it feels real.” This affection has informed their approach to ranching. El Morro Valley Ranch includes ten thousand acres of deeded land and private leases divided into pastures ranging from eighty acres to nearly four thousand. They rotate their relatively small herd between pastures to mimic the disturbance patterns of native grazers like bison and elk. The right amount of grazing pressure can encourage growth without impact to root systems and hurting the grasses’ ability to regenerate. Several years of drought had taken a toll on the ranch, forcing El Morro to reduce its herd. Even so, at the beginning of July, despite a measly monsoon season, the range appeared to be in good condition, with a variety of native grasses readily apparent. Like any emerging market, the grassfed beef industry faces challenges—both for small-scale producers like El Morro and for the industry as a whole. Some of the greatest challenges are due to insufficient regulations that could undermine the value of its product. Although the idea behind grassfed beef is that the animal spends its entire life on open pasture, the US Department of Agriculture has

“W

We think the only way to maintain the viability and resiliency of large landscapes is to get as many of those acres into sustainable grazing and healthy plant communities as possible. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

From left to right, Shaun Johnson and Sarah Mallery, with their two daughters, and Rebecca Allina and Charles Mallery.

yet to create a definition for what qualifies as grassfed. Similar to how meaningless the word “natural” has become on food labeling, this has created ambiguity for the consumer, which large meat distributors have used to their advantage. Although a “grassfed” label implies grassfed and grass-finished, this is not always the case. Obfuscating labels advertising “grassfed, grain finished”—more or less the standard process for American beef—have become common. And although part of grassfed beef ’s popularity can be attributed to the local food movement, since the requirements for country of origin labels were lifted in 2015, processing facilities can import meat from other countries, process it in America, and then label it as a product of the USA. As much as eighty percent of grassfed beef is now imported, estimates Sam Ryerson, president of the Southwest Grassfed Livestock Association (SWGLA). For consumers who want to eat grassfed beef, it’s easier and cheaper than ever to find. Retailers from Walmart to Costco carry grassfed beef products, but a pound of grassfed beef at one of these national retailers may contain the DNA of hundreds of individual animals. So, how do small-scale producers like Mallery and Allina— whose ground beef contains the DNA of just a single animal— 58

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

stand to compete against products that are effectively co-opting their industry while fundamentally undermining the spirit of the product being sold? Like many small ranchers, they’ve sought new ways to make their product stand out, and most fundamentally, these efforts have focused on forming a personal relationship with their customers. Mallery’s daughter Sarah Mallery, and her husband, Shaun Johnson, moved to a neighboring property last year, so that they could help with sales and marketing. Every other week, they make the trip to the Corrales farmers market, where they’re able to meet their customers face to face and provide firsthand knowledge of the beef they’re selling. “People just have more of an interest in knowing those types of things rather than going into a Safeway or Walmart and buying whatever beef off the shelf,” says Johnson. “It’s the ranch story—that connection. That’s one of the major ways we distinguish.” El Morro has also started to have each of their cows go through an ultrasound that indicates how tender the meat will be. Although this information has mostly been for internal use, Sarah and Shaun have started to incorporate this information into their sales pitch. Additionally, they use the relationships developed at the farmers market

Left: Mallery's man-made swimming hole. Top right: One-day-old calf. Bottom right: Cattle hanging out at El Morro Valley Ranch.

to encourage people to visit the ranch, see the cows, and get to understand the ranch up close. “The people we’ve done that with, when come out here they’re just kind of blown away by the area,” Johnson observes. “It’s a powerful connection.” Mallery is also interested in developing a sense of terroir within the local grassfed beef market, teaching consumers that a cow raised in Chama tastes different than one from El Morro. “As you have varietals in wine, realizing beef from a certain area [that] eats different things is going to taste different,” he says, making special note of the volcanic soils that dominate the region where he ranches. While one-to-one marketing has allowed El Morro to build a loyal customer base, for scale, they, like many small ranchers, are members of multiple regional co-ops that bring together like-minded ranchers to help market their products to a larger audience. El Morro Valley Ranch is a member of both the Sweetgrass Co-op, which has a contract with La Montañita Co-op, and SWGLA, which helps build and grow new markets for these specialty products. “Making the connection with consumers and selling beef is a whole different business from running a ranch,” notes Ryerson, who ranches as well. “It's a challenge to market a unique local product while we’re

competing with cheaper imported meat.” Ryerson also stresses the importance of ranchers forming those direct connections with the public. “Producers will need to work together to share our stories with consumers,” he says. To facilitate this kind of information sharing, SWGLA’s website has a searchable database to help consumers find their members, and this fall will be hosting workshops in the Albuquerque area to further develop these relationships. Beyond traditional grazing associations and marketing co-ops, nontraditional allies, like environmental organizations, are also finding ways to promote sustainable ranching throughout the marketplace. In 2017, the National Audubon Society launched its Conservation Ranching Initiative to promote what it calls “bird friendly beef.” Although the program is only two years old, it has enrolled ranchers across twelve states representing 1.85 million acres. In New Mexico, two ranches, including El Morro, have enrolled, with a third in the pipeline, and it’s Mallery’s goal to get all of his fellow Sweetgrass ranchers enrolled as well. According to Jonathan Hayes, executive director of Audubon New Mexico, the program is “a market driven approach that provides incentives to ranchers by labeling their product ‘bird friendly’ which in turn

Left: El Morro Valley Ranch and ranch cat, Roswell, enjoying the sunset. Right: Allina's Airbnb property and grasslands at the ranch.

in the marketplace gets a greater return because the educated consumer will pay a premium for that, knowing it was raised sustainably.” “We think the only way to maintain the viability and resiliency of those large landscapes is to get as many of those acres into sustainable grazing and healthy plant communities as possible,” adds Hayes. Beyond lending their brand to ranches whose land management plans include rotational cycles that mimic natural disturbance patterns, Audubon has also engaged in marketing its members’ products. In the past, similar “eco-label” campaigns have struggled because of the logistical component, but according to Hayes, what distinguishes Audubon’s efforts is that they are working to open new markets and build supply chains for their members where they don’t already exist. And he’s hopeful that the program will continue to grow. Although there’s interest on the part of producers, more than anything, it’s retailers who understand its appeal that are driving demand. Back at El Morro, the focus remains on cattle, but like for many landowners in the twenty-first century, diversification is the name of the game. “There’s only so many cows this land can hold, so we can’t grow beyond a certain amount because the land just doesn’t support it,” says Johnson. “So [we’re] just looking for other ways to diversify.” 60

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

Leveraging the growing popularity of agritourism, Shaun and Sarah use farmers markets to encourage people to visit the ranch and buy beef on site. Additionally, Allina’s house—the one she never had a chance to live in—is rented through Airbnb, and a beef purchase qualifies customers for a discount on the rental. For the past two summers, Sarah has also run a Little Ranchers day camp, introducing young children from surrounding communities in Zuni and Gallup to life on the ranch. As much as the operation is about making a living, it’s also about recreating that bond with the land, and the camp, as well as Sarah and Shaun raising their own daughters on the ranch, provides that opportunity. “That’s what kids are missing these days, is the understanding of growing your own food, what goes into that, and what that lifestyle is about,” says Johnson. It may be awhile before any campers become customers, but instilling the persistence of those values and ethics into the next generation will be essential if small ranches are going to remain viable into the future. elmorrovalleyranch.com, grassfedlivestock.org, audubon.org/conservation/ranching

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Corn, Soil, Tomorrow CULTIVATING RESILIENCE WITH THE FLOWER HILL INSTITUTE By Briana Olson Â· Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Red-walled canyons of the Jemez.

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

“T

he natural thing to do,” says Roger Fragua of Flower Hill Institute, “would be to write about us as thousand-year-old farmers, planting thousand-year-old seeds.”

It would be true, for one, and it would make for a story we can all feel good about—Pueblo farmers raising corn and chile on Pueblo-owned land, proving that, at least in New Mexico, we’ve done something right. It would read like the story of a small but meaningful victory against the machines that can't be beat. “But what we’re doing,” Fragua tells me, “is so much bigger than our pueblos, than New Mexico.” He holds up a hand-drawn map of the US, pointing out the regions and peoples and Indigenous foods represented on Flower Hill’s board of directors, from the whale-hunting, salmon-fishing Makaw of the Northwest to the wild-rice harvesting Oneida of the Great Lakes Region. Partnership is central to Flower Hill’s mission, and the experimental farm we’re going to visit is just one of the nonprofit’s projects. Besides, as Fragua likes to say, what they’re growing in Flower Hill’s 4.5-acre plot on Jemez Pueblo isn’t really corn—it’s soil. Soil: that dynamic network of organic matter, clay, sand, gas, water, microbes, and tiny life forms that over time develops at the surface of the earth. “Earth people came out of the earth. Everything that’s part of the earth is part of you,” says Brophy Toledo, cultural leader, musician, and co-founder, with Fragua, of Flower Hill. One afternoon, Fragua has told me, he and Toledo were together at a sacred site, a place where many paths come together and whose name translates as Flower Hill. There, Toledo said to Fragua, “I am so tired of hearing, and talking,” so when they came down, they decided to act. That was the beginning of the Flower Hill Institute: a native-owned, community directed nonprofit dedicated to cultural preservation and tribal stability. Four years later, as we walk along red rock and sand to a point overlooking the red-walled canyon behind Fragua’s home, Toledo identifies one medicinal plant after another: there’s cota, for the gut, and the tonic leaves of the aspen tree. I stop at a cluster of small, slender-stalked white flowers, and Toledo touches their thick, partially exposed roots, explaining that the roots can be dried and used for tea. Toledo’s training as a healer began when he was eleven years old. He learned from elders, and now he teaches young people, using the Towa language to root their study of the sciences to their cultural traditions.

“The fox taught us how to hunt,” Toledo says as we near the overlook, demonstrating the quiet of the fox walk, cupping a hand to his ear, listening. He is an engaging, charismatic teacher. As we turn to walk back down, he talks about the quiet flight and the night vision of owls, laughingly demonstrates a human attempt to turn his neck as far back as an owl can. Back inside, he shows me a photo of a model fieldhouse, a site situated near a spring that would have served as base camp for summer hunting and agriculture. “Farming is cultural preservation,” Fragua says, often. So, too, is language. En route to the field, we talk about protecting the Towa language. Traditional law prohibits its transcription into writing to prevent exploitation. Towa, with roughly 3,800 Towa speakers alive today, remains important to ceremonies, prayers for clouds, rain, crops, and healthy people. As he steers his truck past rows of native white corn, Fragua recites what sounds like a mantra: “If you don’t have the language, you don’t have the song; if you don’t have the song, you don’t have the dance; if you don’t have the dance, you don’t have the ceremony.” For their science camps, Flower Hill partners with the South-Central Science Climate Center, UNM, and others to bring STEM curriculum to the pueblo. Toledo interprets the science instructors, adding context from Pueblo tradition, language, and history. The idea—in addition to building science skills—is to impress students with knowledge of their own people’s history as caretakers of the land, and to inspire them to take up the calling. “I tell them one of you needs to be a hydrologist,” Toledo explains, “because we’re not taking care of that memory. We need to do more water-shedding.” The farm, too, is a medium meant to inspire young people to conserve tribal knowledge—and to grow their own food. Corn, Fragua has told me, is “the very material and essence that we use to wake up every morning with.” Ceremonial use, he says, is the first priority for heirloom corn grown on Pueblo lands. This is one reason that, when the idea of a ten-tribe food hub was proposed, they found that there was no corn that was not being used. According to Fragua, Jemez Pueblo has gone from 1,400 to 400 irrigated acres. Forty-some miles from the nearest grocery store (not counting the gas station convenience store near the federally-owned recreation area), the pueblo, once characterized by orchards, wheat fields, and sheep, is now one of the stranger offshoots of industrial agriculture: a rural food desert. Part of Fragua’s refrain is well-known: Farming is hard; Walmart is

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What they’re growing in Flower Hill’s 4.5-acre plot on Jemez Pueblo isn’t really corn—it’s soil. Soil: that dynamic network of organic matter, clay, sand, gas, water, microbes, and tiny life forms that over time develops at the surface of the earth. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

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easy. Nationwide, farmers are retiring with no one to take their place. In New Mexico, Fragua says, “We lay claim to the oldest farmers in the country.” It’s almost noon by the time we pile out of the truck, and no one has to ask why a young adult might choose to huddle over a screen in a cool room when they could be out here, risking failure in the hot sun. And yet. As we talk about methods they’re experimenting with to conserve water and build soil, the beauty of the valley asserts itself. Toledo shares his thrill at having seen a swallowtail and then a monarch, one right after the other, while he was out here a couple days earlier. “I was singing to the plants about butterflies,” he says, gazing over the corn. There’s a mix of manure and humates at the head of each row, so the water runs through, becoming liquid fertilizer on its way to the plants. In one row, oblong mesh bags of the same mixture—“manure teabags,” Fragua calls them—are positioned at three-foot intervals, a test in slowing the water and carrying fertilizer all the way down. Their experiments in sustainable methods are a blend of modern (like the use of humates) and traditional (the burial of fish parts when planting the corn). They’ve adopted no-till practices, known to prevent erosion and slow the decomposition of organic matter, in turn decreasing the release of carbon dioxide. They’re also using cover crops, a seven-seed blend of legumes, which support the soil ecosystem in similar ways, as well as conserving moisture, supporting microorganisms, and helping the nutrient cycle stay healthy. “We’re lay people,” Fragua emphasizes, mentioning a plan to partner with NMSU to do more soil testing. He tells us how the day before, a couple guys were out here, gathering pollen. All parts of the plant are used in ceremonies—a practice the Soil Science Society of America refers to as cultural ecosystem services.

more rapidly than we ever expected.” With extended droughts, flooding has worsened, and Jemez is near the sites of two of the largest fires in New Mexico history. “Try irrigating with black water,” Fragua says. “After that fire, all that comes downstream, and our rivers have gone black. . . . How do you irrigate with that?” At one point during our visit, Toledo tells a story about a harvest dance. “Man, it started raining,” he says. “See it go by,” he says he told the younger people, “we can’t bring it back because it’s already passed us.” At the time, I find the lesson a bit cryptic, perhaps meaning something along the lines of carpe diem—seize the day, own your life. But water is more than metaphor. Water must be present to be conserved—a statement of the obvious, yes, and also a fact that is ignored every day by a significant percentage of earth’s human population. This is why Toledo wants to inspire young people to become farmers, to become hydrologists, to feel the soil and know where they come from. “Some people say the youth are our future,” Fragua says, “but I have four children, and I’m never going to look like them again. No,” he says, “the elders are the future. And that puts the responsibility, this burden, and this challenge on us.” It’s an unusual take, one that demands a moment of reflection, a cognitive somersault. “Nobody’s taking land when we go on to the next stage of existence—that’s the general concept,” he says, regarding Pueblo views on land ownership. Nor can new soil simply replace the old. Healthy soil is mature, the result of long years of collaboration. The elders—all elders of all tribes of earth people—will leave the earth for the youth. Its condition will be our legacy. As Fragua says, “We’ve got to act fast.” flowerhill.institute

“We’re cultural preservationists,” Fragua says later, sitting at his kitchen table. He’s concerned about climate change, but he’s also concerned about economic self-sufficiency on tribal lands. Fragua is careful to state that the tribes’ work to protect sacred spaces is not an opposition to energy, “but we don’t want energy in our church, our graveyard, or our water. Energy development doesn’t have to happen at Chaco Canyon.” Flower Hill also hopes to help limit extraction in Bears Ears and Pecos, to which Jemez Pueblo is historically tied (the two pueblos are legally merged) and where Comexico now wants to drill, not far from a mine site that spilled toxic metals into Pecos River in the early 1990s. These, too, might be called cultural ecosystem services—sacred services the earth provides to a people, and that the people then cycle back to the earth. In May, Flower Hill participated in the second annual conference on climate change hosted by the New Mexico Tribal Resilience Action Network (NMTRAN), titled “Climate Rezilience: The Power of Corn.” NMTRAN grew out of the Southwest Water and Climate Change Working Group, of which Flower Hill is a founding member. “Folks started talking from a Pueblo perspective,” Fragua says. “‘When corn dies, we die’ was a phrase that was getting thrown around.” Like the youth camps, NMTRAN brings science and tradition together. “I’d say there’s a pretty widespread understanding [in the pueblos] that the climate is changing,” Fragua says, “and I think

Above: Cornfield at Flower Hill's farm. Opposite page, top left, clockwise: Brophy Toledo and Roger Fragua of Flower Hill Institute; growing soil at Flower Hill farm; red walls of the Jemez; cota, aka Indian tea. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Let's Talk Dirty THE HEALTHY SOIL ACT IN NEW MEXICO By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

San Juan Ranch. Photo courtesy of Quivira Coalition.

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et’s talk dirty for a minute. Until a few years ago, I was only tuned into the static properties of soil. If the backyard was sandy, I knew it would support plants like basil, lavender, and herbs that like well-drained soils. If the garden sported heavy clays, better to plant kale, potatoes, or other plants that don’t mind wet roots and tight soils. But soil health and function goes far beyond its basic hydrogeology. In recent years, I’ve been turned on to the complex, dynamic, biological world of microbes, nematodes, fungi, and many other small living creatures that exist in constant and immediate symbiosis with above-ground plant communities. They ultimately capture carbon and other elements from the air and return them to the earth. Plants capture carbon through photosynthesis and process it into sugars that feed the soil microbiology through the roots of plants. Healthy soil hosts diverse and abundant carbon-based critters who eat, live, defecate, die, and decompose, returning carbon to the soil. The greater the number and diversity of plants in the soil, and the less disturbance of soil, the more vibrant the subsurface microbiological communities. In addition, the more these critters produce their carbon-based waste, the more organic matter, nutrients, and water the soil can hold. Now when I put a shovel in the garden, I’m looking at it in a whole new way. While soil microbiology has a nerdy ring to it, you don’t need a lab or a scientist to understand this subject—you need a shovel, two eyes, a nose, some fingers, and a little water to tell you a lot about what’s going on below ground in your garden. Are there visible critters at work like worms or grubs? Does the soil look granular and aerated? When you pull a weed in your garden, are its roots sheathed in soil, looking a little like dreadlocks? Do you see delicate white veins that are not roots? If you set a chunk of dirt gently in a glass of water, does it cling together rather than dissolve? If you answer yes to many of these, you probably have healthy soil. I love having the opportunity to write for edible’s land issue, because I love the challenge of finding ways to connect people to place and ecology through the lens of food. It is what inspired me to join the edible team almost a decade ago, and continues to drive the work I do today. Lately, I’ve been thinking a lot about dirt. So much of our food comes from the soil. All land and water on this big, beauti-

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ful planet are connected, so how we treat the ground beneath our feet directly impacts the quality of our food. While lab-developed products like the Impossible Burger may be stirring great media attention, even these products are based on plants, fungi, bacteria, and animals that all require healthy soil to produce their caloric contribution to food systems. In April, the New Mexico legislature did an incredible thing. They passed healthy soil legislation, making us the twelfth state in the union to pass similar legislation and a leader in a growing movement to recognize the importance of our soils to our watersheds, biodiversity, farmers, food systems, and rural economies. Directly from the bill: “The purpose of the [legislation is to create a] program to promote and support farming and ranching systems and other forms of land management that increase soil organic matter, aggregate stability, microbiology and water retention to improve the health, yield and profitability of the soils of the state.” The Healthy Soil Act recognizes five key principles for keeping soils healthy and productive: keep soil covered with plants; minimize soil disturbance on cropland and minimize external inputs; maximize biodiversity; maintain living roots; and integrate animals into land management, including grazing animals, birds, and beneficial insects or keystone species, such as earthworms. The legislation creates a new program at the New Mexico Department of Agriculture that will fund research on what types of agriculture and other land management make our high-desert soils healthy; educational programming for both farmers and the public on what is healthy soil and how we can support it; and grants to be awarded directly to farmers who want to shift production practices so the way they grow food or fiber benefits the soil. While the Healthy Soil Act and the new program it creates are both targeted toward farmers and ranchers, the reality is that it codifies good practices all of us should follow in our yards, gardens, or any other greenspace we play a role in maintaining. Like many places in the country, and perhaps even more so, New Mexico soils are in crisis. Restoring soil health will take much more than legislation; it will take a fundamental shift in the way we collectively produce food, and the way we support food producers.

Now when I put a shovel in the garden, I’m looking at it in a whole new way. While soil microbiology has a nerdy ring to it, you don’t need a lab or a scientist to understand this subject—you need a shovel, two eyes, a nose, some fingers, and a little water to tell you a lot about what’s going on below ground in your garden. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Quivira Coalition land health workshop at the San Juan Ranch. Photos courtesy of Quivira Coalition.

Every few years, the US Department of Agriculture Natural Resource Conservation Service (prior to 1994 known as the Soil Conservation Service, which was established in the decades leading up to the Dust Bowl by a couple of smart folks who could see the direction bad farming practices were taking us) conducts a natural resource inventory. This survey looks at a number of factors related to the health and stability of our soils. Here, our soils show extreme departure from normal conditions, meaning we have high levels of wind erosion and bare ground, both of which indicate our overall soil health is declining. While many years of extreme drought have contributed to this phenomenon, we can’t discount the impact land management choices have on the situation. Over the last decade, many farmers and ranchers have continued to plant or graze in the same fashion they always have, even though changes in the weather would suggest a need for modifying practices to suit new realities of temperature and precipitation. A number of factors contribute to slow change in agricultural practices, from the expense required for putting in new infrastructure or purchas68

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ing new equipment, to the inevitable loss in productivity while the system adapts to changes, to contractual agreements that prevent change, to peer pressure from family and neighbors who say, “Better the devil you know…” Although change is complicated and can be hard, many farmers and ranchers also seek out education, technical support, and funding to support their soil. In the public sector, the Natural Resource Conservation Service has recently prioritized soil health and is developing tools nationally to support farmers and ranchers. Regionally, groups like the Quivira Coalition (of which I am executive director), the Soil Health Academy, Carbon Cowboys, and Soil Health Services have created on-farm, often producer-led, workshops on understanding soil health and what it takes to really improve it. Creation, passage, and implementation of the Healthy Soil Act provides a critical support mechanism at the state level, rounding out a suite of financial and technical service tools a farmer or rancher can utilize to shift to practices that promote soil health.

NOVEMBER 18-22, HOTEL ALBUQUERQUE

A collaborative conference to examine the critical connections between soil, people, and planet.

R E G E N E R AT E HEALTH FROM THE SOIL UP

REGENERATE2019.COM

Food is Medicine

An evening with

Dr. Michael Graziano Diana Rodgers Allison Sosna

A conversation about the connections between agriculture and health. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Thurs, Nov 21, 7pm | Hotel Albuquerque | $10 | Tickets and info at quiviracoalition.org/medicine

Patrick O’Neil at the Quivira Coalition land health workshop at the San Juan Ranch. Photos courtesy of Quivira Coalition.

More Information:

According to the NRCS:

To learn more about the program, see the New Mexico Department of Agriculture’s website: nmda.nmsu.edu/home/divisions/apr/healthy-soil-program/

As world population and food production demands rise, keeping our soil healthy and productive is of paramount importance. By implementing soil health principles and systems that include no-till, cover cropping, and diverse rotations, more and more farmers are actually increasing their soil’s organic matter and improving microbial activity. As a result, farmers are sequestering more carbon, increasing water infiltration, and improving wildlife and pollinator habitats—all while often harvesting better yields and better profits.

To understand how you can promote soil health in your yard or garden, contact your local extension agent: extension.nmsu.edu. To get involved at the local level helping your community steward land and water for healthy food, fiber, and fuel systems, consider joining or volunteering for your Soil and Water Conservation District: nmacd.org. To meet farmers, ranchers, scientists, and others working on soil health, consider attending the 2019 REGENERATE Conference, November 19–22 at the Hotel Albuquerque: regenerate2019.com. To learn how to be a soil health advocate and find teaching and learning resources, check out the NRCS Soil Health Portal: bit.ly/2jIWwzL, or visit Kiss the Ground: kisstheground.com.

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Mercedes agrícolas LAND GRANTS AND THE PAST AND FUTURE OF AGRICULTURE IN NEW MEXICO By Jacobo D. Baca

"Scene on strip farms along the Rio Hondo near Taos, New Mexico. This land was originally Spanish land grants and has been divided and subdivided among the descendents [sic] of the first farmers until the farms are today extremely small, some being only five or six acres. The land has been divided so that each has part of the fertile valley and part of the hilly country." Russell Lee, 1939, courtesy Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division, Farm Security Administration/Office of War Information Black-and-White Negatives.

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Hope remains that traditional agriculture will be maintained in land grant communities. Many villages’ plunging population figures have plateaued, and some have even experienced modest growth.

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ravelers driving through New Mexico’s villages have long admired the quaint homes, ancient plazas, modest orchards, and verdant fields. Juxtaposed to the rolling arid hills, these orchards and fields are the emerald and more serene remnants of a colonialism that the Spanish negotiated with the Native tribes of the region. Arabic acequia engineering was transposed on Puebloan ditches, and colonists expanded these irrigation systems to create improbably sustainable communities that to this day look like green islands on the sea of highland desert. If parciantes were to stop irrigating these fields and orchards, the riparian area would die and the native chamisa and cactus would return and take back the landscape they have lost to orchards, timothy, and alfalfa. Nearly every one of these old villages and their fields was born out of land grants, petitioned for by would-be settlers and granted by the Spanish crown through their New World representatives, typically the governor. In the century and a quarter after the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, Spain granted about one hundred thirty land grants, or mercedes, to both individuals and communities, including grants that recognized the property rights of Pueblo communities, an attempt to discourage incursion on Pueblo lands and stave off another rebellion. After Mexico won independence in 1821, Mexico continued this tradition, granting larger grants (nearly three times the size of Spanish grants) for submarginal lands further from the Rio Grande and its tributaries. All of these grants (community, private, and Pueblo) were made of a combination of small private tracts that included the sitios and suertes holding homesites and gardens and the communal lands that contained the townsites, churches, forests, hunting, and grazing lands that comprised the bulk of a land grant. Mercedes, at least theoretically, contained enough land and water, and enough variation in types of land, that their communities could provide for themselves with the waters, pastures, and forests contained within. Maintaining a community and sharing resources was difficult. Acequia irrigation practices, grazing, hunting, and wood hauling were done communally, and villages would often feud over resources, especially water. Anyone who has gardened in New Mexico’s high-desert climate can attest to the brutal heat of the summer and equally harsh winters. Early colonists described the annual climate as “nueve meses de invierno, tres de infierno,” or “nine months of winter, three of hell.” Drought was common, as were late spring frosts and early snowfalls. The arid climate made agriculture challenging, and the population vulnerable to starvation and disease—which, combined with raids by surrounding tribes, made life on the frontier difficult. Colonists imitated their Pueblo neighbors’ cultivation of corn, beans, and squash, and added stone-fruits, wheat, lamb, and beef to the Pueblo diet. Across centuries, the populations created foodways built on crops that were hearty and drought tolerant. Today, land grant communities have a complicated relationship with agriculture, to say the least. Many factors led to this. Foremost was the dispossession of land grant heirs by attorneys, land speculators, and politicians who’d coveted the limited arable land that heirs and their Pueblo neighbors and cousins owned. After their land development schemes failed, speculators found an enthusiastic purchas-

er in the federal government. Initially, the government purchased former land grant common land under the auspices of federal programs that sought to allow villagers to access the resources that constituted their former communal patrimony. Instead, these lands became a part of the national forest system and heirs were denied access to lands that they had relied on to hunt, gather food and medicinal herbs, and graze their stock. Today nearly a quarter of the Kit Carson and Santa Fe National Forests are former land grant common land. Capitalism also changed how villagers interacted with the land around them. With the advent of railroads, New Mexico’s isolation truly ended and its fields were opened up or exposed to regional markets. Lands that in 1870 supported 30,000 cattle and 350,000 sheep and goats were suffocated by 150,000 cattle and 1.6 million sheep and goats by 1900. Piñón, long a source of protein and fat for Pueblo peoples and Hispanos, was now harvested commercially, and caretas (carts) loaded with sacks of piñón were a common sight at railroad stations, from which they were shipped north to markets in Colorado. In the lowlands, irrigation districts were formed, imposing taxes and fees on land that barely provided for a limited subsistence agriculture. The formerly poor but independent villagers were now dependent wage earners, still poor, but indebted to mercantiles where they purchased dry goods to replace the food they once grew. And while the availability of dry goods increased food security and reduced the likelihood of shortages, it demanded that villagers become wage earners, which gradually led them from their villages to trade centers. Their tastes changed and became more conventional as they substituted traditional drinks like atole (a warm corn-flour drink) with coffee, replacing what they had formerly produced or bartered for with items they needed to buy. Finally, the natural constraints imposed by a high-desert climate limited the amount of arable land, as there was only so much water available for agriculture. Partible inheritance led to the continual division of land, generation after generation, and grazing and garden plots shrunk. When land grant village populations boomed in the nineteenth century, this combination of push and pull factors (dispossession, capitalism, and environmental limits) led them away from their villages and their traditional agricultural economies. But as land grant heirs moved to commercial centers, they brought their foodways and culinary traditions with them. Heirs still in their villages, along with many that relocated, continued growing small plots of corn, beans, squash, chile, and peas. Those far from reliable waterways relied more heavily on stock raising and dry farming (in Spanish called temporal) to provide for their families. Generations after they became wage earners, Hispanos continued maintaining garden plots or grazing a few dozen head of cattle or sheep. My grandparents’ and parents’ generations (born between 1900 and 1940) held government jobs during the day and hurried home to their fields in the evenings, where they augmented their modest wages with homegrown crops. Families exchanged fresh apples, apricots, and plums, and picked wild chokecherries (capulín) and plums (cirhuela) which they dried or made into jellies and jams. Subsequent generations by and large abandoned these practices in favor of job security. Hope remains that traditional agriculture will WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Tomé Farmers Market, hosted by the Town of Tomé Land Grant at the Thome Domínguez Community Center. Photos by Rosemarie Romero.

be maintained in land grant communities. Many villages’ plunging population figures have plateaued, and some have even experienced modest growth. The days of communal fields are long gone, save an ephemeral community garden here and there, but land grants are still engaged in traditional lifeways, especially grazing and stock raising for those grants that do retain some communal land. Stock raisers also possess allotments on forest lands, allowing them to grow hay, timothy, and alfalfa on their winter grazing fields, which they bale and feed their herds for as least part of the winter. Communal grazing still takes place on both the Abiquiú Land Grant and the Chililí Land Grant, among others. Chililí and Abiquiú converted to livestock cooperatives in the 1940s to stave off dispossession at the hands of the State Tax Commission. The Chililí dissolved the cooperative and transferred the lands back to the grant in the late 1980s, and Abiquiú followed suit in the early 2000s. Since 2002, land grants have been political subdivisions of the state with duly elected, voluntary boards of trustees. They represent the modern iteration of the most ancient form of democratic local governance in New Mexico. The Tajique and Town of Tomé Land Grant operate local community centers, where the Town of Tomé Land Grant hosts a weekly farmers market. Sisters Andrea Padilla and Rita Padilla-Gutierrez have both served on the Town of Tomé board, and volunteer countless hours, organizing the market while raising cattle and growing hay on fields passed down for generations. Higinia (Valdez) Gallegos of Cañones has been active on the Juan Bautista Baldés Land Grant, serving as president for most of the last decade. With her husband Wilfredo, she received a grant to construct hoop houses, extending the growing season in the micro-basins of the grant and providing fresh vegetables to the local preschool and nearby elementary. For more than a decade, land grants have engaged in discussions with the New Mexico Congressional delegation to create legislation 74

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that recognizes traditional uses of forest resources, including medicinal herbs, foods, and forest products, and allows the maintenance of acequia infrastructure on US Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management lands. This past July, congressman Ben Ray Luján reintroduced the Land Grant and Acequia Traditional Use Recognition and Consultation Act (H.R. 3682), an important step in restoring meaningful access to land grant communities. Land grant boards have also collaborated with the Forest Service on the Collaborative Forest Restoration Program, investing time and resources into public lands that once constituted their commons. Amendments in the 2018 Farm Bill made both land grants and acequias eligible for federal programs like the Environmental Quality Incentive Program (EQIP), which hopefully will lead to the restoration of waterways and riparian areas in land grant communities. Land grants have made strides at the state level. As political subdivisions of the State of New Mexico, land grants are eligible for state funding. The Interim Land Grant Committee was established in 2003 and has aided the return of lands to the Abiquiú, Tomé, and Tierra Amarilla Grants. Since 2009, the New Mexico Land Grant Council has provided a program of support for land grants, advocating the creation of constructive state and federal legislation and seeking the return of common lands to land grants. Land grants are unlikely to return to the agrarian villages that they were two centuries ago. But recognition of their rights to self-govern and their traditional use of their former common lands is a step in the right direction, and a move toward social justice for New Mexico’s Hispano communities. As New Mexico faces the realities of climate change, land grants are poised to face the most existential of questions regarding local governance and traditional agriculture, and to re-engage with traditional knowledge and values that sustained our communities for centuries.

Chililí, New Mexico. Russell Lee, 1940, courtesy Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division, Farm Security Administration/Office of War Information Black-and-White Negatives.

The Cellar Tapas Beer & Wine

Serving Brunch & Lunch

After conquering everything and anything, The Cellar has decided to do the unthinkable—due to popular demand—Chef Dominguez has decided to make brunch/lunch the most important meal of the day!

Come and join us for a Spanish inspired brunch and lunch experience like no other—Starting November 1, Tuesday–Sunday 10–2pm. 1025 LOMAS NW, ALBUQUERQUE • 505.242.3117 • THECELLARTAPAS.COM

EDIBLE NOTABLES

Smackdown Round Up WE'RE JUST HERE FOR THE GREEN CHILE CHEESEBURGERS Photos by Simply Social

And the winners are: Bar Castañeda for the Reigning Chomp award, and Steel Bender Brewyard for the People’s Choice Award.

Seven of New Mexico’s finest chefs competed in the seventh annual Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown (GCCS) on September 7, 2019. Two innovative iterations on the classic green chile cheeseburger took top honors: Bar Castañeda in Las Vegas won the Judges’ Award to become the Reigning Chomp, and Steel Bender Brewyard in Albuquerque won the People’s Choice Award. This year a third award went to Pajarito Brewpub in Los Alamos for the top pick in the Secret Judging round.

Sean Sinclair of Bar Castañeda. Seven producers donated to the chefs to help offset the cost of providing samples at the event: Ranney Ranch, Peculiar Farms, C4 Farms, Mesteño Draw Cattle Ranch, Young Guns Produce, Bountiful Cow, and Bueno Foods. Each winning chef took home a $500 prize and a Big Green Egg grill, and the Secret Judges’ winner was awarded a Disc-It grill. Disc-It also made the trophies for this year’s Smackdown. Additionally, edible New Mexico donated $750 to both Cooking with Kids and the Southwest Grassfed Livestock Alliance.

As always, competition was open to any willing New Mexico restaurant. The seven finalists were: Marc Quiñones of MÁS Tapas y Vino; Isaac Sandoval of The Skillet; Peter Knaus of Pajarito Brewpub & Grill; Jason Baczkiewicz of Steel Bender Brewyard; Jason Stewart of Luminaria at Inn and Spa Loretto; Kathleen Crook of Market Steer Steakhouse; and

Alan Webber, mayor of the City of Santa Fe, proclaimed Saturday, September 7, 2019, as Green Chile Cheeseburger Day. The proclamation states: “WHEREAS, New Mexico is the Green Chile Capital of the World and Santa Fe is the Capital of New Mexico; and WHEREAS, Santa Fe is the host for the seventh Annual Green Chile

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Cheeseburger Smackdown; and WHEREAS, Santa Fe has nine restaurants that are past winners over the last six years of the Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown. Now, therefore, I Alan Webber, Mayor of the City of Santa Fe, do hereby proclaim Saturday, September 7, 2019 as: ‘Green Chile Cheeseburger Day.’” Sean Sinclair, the executive chef and proprietor of Bar Castañeda, said, “We set out to make a really good burger just like we would on any of our dishes at Bar Castañeda. We start with the best ingredients we can get our hands-on and in the case of the burger, it was Ranney Ranch beef. We tested probably twelve or so burger bun recipes till we found the Japanese Milk Bun and that was a home run. Making really really good food almost never happens on the first try; it takes R&D and a little TLC to make it just right.” Jason Baczkiewicz, the executive chef of Steel Bender Brewyard, said, “Thank you again for having us at the Smackdown! It was a very humbling and educational experience for all of us. It was also amazing to hear feedback from patrons who have never heard of us and wanted to know where we are located. As a result of competing in the Smackdown, I feel that it has brought our team and local farmers closer together. It's amazing the difference in quality when it's locally sourced! 78

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

As Steel Bender grows I would like to apply this example to how we go forward and work with our team and community in the future.” “We were thrilled to have Big Green Egg join us as a title sponsor this year,” said Stephanie Cameron, the event’s producer. “We also want to give a special shout out to all the local grassfed beef ranchers, Ranney Ranch, C4 Farms, Mesteño Draw Cattle Co., and Peculiar Farms, who supplied meat to four of this year’s competitors. They made our event that much more meaningful as we are trying to educate consumers on their local foodshed.” Edible thanks all of our supporters, attendees, volunteers, and partners, including Big Green Egg, Tourism Santa Fe, Simply Social, Santa Fe Brewing Co., Bueno Foods, Young Guns Produce, La Montañita Co-op, Reunity Resources, Bountiful Cow, AlbuKirky Seasonings, Disc-It, and countless others who helped make this event a success. We are particularly grateful to all the restaurants and chefs for their efforts in showcasing the iconic green chile cheeseburger. Without them, we wouldn’t have a reason to celebrate. See you again on September 5, 2020, at this chile-licious event. Tickets go on sale in July, but don’t wait to secure them—we will sell out! ediblesmackdown.com

Chef SEAN SINCLAIR BAR CASTAÃ±EDA 524 Railroad Ave, Las Vegas kinlvnm.com

sponsored by

ranneyranch.com

Chef jason Baczkiewicz Steel bender brewyard 8305 2nd St NW, los ranchos steelbenderbrewyard.com

sponsored by

a special thank you to our sponsors which allowed us to stipend our chefs

Chef PETER KNAUS PAJARITO BREWPUB & GRILL 614 Trinity Dr, Los Alamos pajaritobrewpubandgrill.com

sponsored by

Chef kathleen crook

sponsored by

market steer steakhouse 210 Don Gaspar Ave, Santa Fe marketsteersteakhouse.com

Chef jason stewart luminaria restaurant & patio 211 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe hotelloretto.com

Chef Isaac Sandoval

sponsored by

The skillet 619 12th St, Las Vegas facebook.com/giantskillet

sponsored by

peculiarfarm.com

Chef Marc QuiĂąones MAS Tapas y Vino 125 2nd Street NW Albuquerque â&#x20AC;˘ hotelandaluz.com

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MARKET PLACE • LOCAL FINDS Your support for the advertisers listed here allows us to offer this magazine free of charge to readers.

TIN-NEE-ANN Trading Co. Family Operated - Family Friendly Since 1973

CreativeCultureABQ

Creative Culture ABQ Great Gifts & Cards Handmade Paper Inspired Craft Supplies

Creative Home Décor & Gifts 428 SANDOVAL ST, SANTA FE AMPERSANDOLDANDNEW.COM

EAT LOCAL Santa Fe Local Food Subscription Service

Hatch Chile —The Best Chile 923 Cerrillos Road at St. Francis Drive 505-988-1630 ∙ tinneeann2@gmail.com

LAWN SPRINKLER EXPERTS

Products change weekly based on availability from over 25 New Mexico farms.

Repairs/Installations Landscape Remodeling Fruit Tree Pruning and Removal

ENJOY $5 OFF YOUR FIRST ORDER CODE: EDIBLE-FALL

505-319-5730

Taste the Best of Every Season!

SquashBlossomLocalFood.com

nmlawnsprinklerexperts.com

3001 Monte Vista NE . ABQ 505-200-2785

LocallyGrown!

139 W San Francisco St, Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 795-7075 │ LescombesWinery.com

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Y O U R LO C A L S O URCE G UID E

Barrio Brinery i TA ex FE z New M

FERMEN TS FINE FERMENTED FOODS Probiotic Pickles, Sauerkraut, Escabeche, and More Handcrafted in Small Batches 1413-B West Alameda, Santa Fe www.barriobrinery.com ∙ 505-699-9812

FOOD ARTISANS / RETAILER AlbuKirky Seasonings

AlbuKirky Seasonings specializes in finely crafted rubs, sauces, and jellies featuring red and green chile and other Southwest flavors. Albuquerque, albukirkyseasonings.com

Barrio Brinery

Bringing fine fermented foods to Santa Fe. We make our products by handcrafting small batches of flavorful goodness using only the finest ingredients.1413-B W Alameda, Santa Fe, 505-699-9812, barriobrinery.com

Bountiful Cow Cheese Company Purveyors of fine cheese, meats, and provisions from around the world. 505-473-7911, B-cow.com

Eldora Chocolate

Eldora crafts chocolate using natural, organic, and fair trade ingredients. 8114 Edith NE, Albuquerque, 505-433-4076, eldorachocolate.com

Heidi's Raspberry Farm

Sumptuous, organic raspberry jams available throughout New Mexico and online! 600 Andrews, Corrales, 505-898-1784, heidisraspberryfarm.com

Savory Spice Shop

Spice specialist with a variety of blends as well as extracts, sauces, and specialty foods. 225 Galisteo, Santa Fe, 505-819-5659, savoryspiceshop.com/santafe

Skarsgard Farms

Delivering fresh, local, and organically grown produce and natural groceries to doorsteps across New Mexico. 505-681-4060, skarsgardfarms.com

Squash Blossom Local Food Inc.

Santa Fe local food subscription service. Products from over twenty-five New Mexico farms. squashblossomlocalfood.com

LODGING

Buffalo Thunder, Hilton Santa Fe

Dedicated to growing and maintaining all manner of outdoor plants—veggies, fruit trees, flowers, shrubs, and perennials. 9515 Fourth Street NW, Albuquerque, 505-898-3562, alamedagreenhouseabq.com

deerBrooke

Irrigation and backflow prevention specialists. Repairs, installations, and consulting. 505-319-5730, NMLawnsprinklerexperts.com

Osuna Nursery

A family-owned and operated nursery, gardening center, and landscaping company. 501 Osuna NE, Albuquerque, 505345-6644, osunanursery.com

505-827-6364, newmexicoculture.org

Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

New Mexico Ferments

Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi

Local, fresh, probiotic kombucha. Find us on tap at Albuquerque farmers markets as well as breweries and distilleries in Albuquerque, Santa Fe, and Taos. newmexicoferments.com

Sarabande B & B

Santa Fe Olive Oil & Balsamic Co

The Parador

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

Alameda Greenhouse

A Curio Collection by Hilton. 125 Second Street NW, Albuquerque, 505-388-0088, hotelandaluz.com

Hotel Andaluz

Sophisticated modern aesthetic celebrating the southwestern spirit. 113 Washington, Santa Fe, 505-988-3030, rosewoodhotels. com/en/inn-of-the-anasazi-santa-fe

NURSERIES & SERVICES

ORGANIZATIONS, EVENTS, & EDUCATION

La Montañita Coop

This local interactive tasting room offers the finest quality extra virgin olive oils, balsamic vinegars, gourmet salts, and specialty foods. Shop in-store or online. santafeoliveoil.com

newmexicoferments.com

Relaxing ambiance and luxurious amenities. 20 Buffalo Thunder Trail, Santa Fe, 505-455-5555, buffalothunderresort.com

4803 Rio Grande NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com

La Montañita Co-op is New Mexico's largest community-owned natural and organic food market. Locations in Albuquerque, Gallup, and Santa Fe, lamontanita.coop

KOMBUCHA

. Local . Fresh . Probiotic .

Comfort, elegance, and simplicity. 5637 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-348-5593, sarabandebnb.com Our 200-year-old farmhouse, Santa Fe's oldest inn, is located in historic downtown Santa Fe. 220 West Manhattan, Santa Fe, 505-988-1177, elparadero.com

New Mexico Department of Cultural Affairs

New Mexico Museum Foundation

116 Lincoln, Santa Fe, 505-982-6366 ext.100, museumfoundation.org

Quivira Coalition quiviracoalition.org

OTHER SERVICES

Enterprise Bank & Trust

Los Alamos, Santa Fe, Albuquerque, enterprisebank.com

Garcia Auto Group

8449 Lomas NE, Albuquerque, garciacars.com

Simply Social Media

A Santa Fe based social media marketing agency. simplysocialmedianm.com

Sparky's

3216 Los Arboles NE, Albuquerque, 505750-3740, sparkysabq.com

CafĂŠ & Bakery

505-204-7869 1291 San Felipe Ave, Santa Fe

Â Â?

Est. 1984

Wholesale Specialty Cheese/Meats/Provisions 300+ Cheeses from around the World www.b-cow.com Î&#x2021; 505-473-7911

TRIFECTA COFFEE COMPANY

colombian bistro

now open

tuesday-saturday 11am-8pm

3216 Silver SE, Albuquerque 505-266-2305, www.ajiacobistro.com Ajiacoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by a diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. Cultural traditions of different Colombian ethnic groups play a role in our choice of ingredients.

RETAILERS

Ampersand Old & New

Vintage goods, furniture, old and new homewares, and fun, affordable gifts. 428 Sandoval, Santa Fe, ampersandoldandnew.com

Creative Culture

Specializing in exotic paper, greeting cards, art supplies, and unique gifts. A makersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; paradise. 3001 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque, 505-200-2785

Gallery Ethnica

Live globally! 1301 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-557-6654, galleryethnica.com

413 Montano NE, Albuquerque 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeecompany.com We roast coffee, and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available.Â All of our baked goods, sweet, and savory are made in house.

Kitchenality

Genuine Food & Drink Enchanting, Dusty... Wild West Style 28 MAIN STREET LOS CERRILLOS 505.438.1821 Thursday - Sunday blackbirdsaloon.com 1973. 923 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-988-1630 facebook.com/TinNeeAnn

Irresistible and gently used gourmet cooking and entertaining ware. 1222 Siler, Santa Fe, 505-471-7780, kitchenangels.org

Ventana Fine Art

An eclectic shop for handmade products. 1315 Mountain NW, Albuquerque, 505-433-3204, beingthereabq.com

WINE STORES

Next Best Thing to Being There

Sarabande Home

We have a passion for finding the perfect gift. 4022 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-344-1253, sarabandehome.com

Tin-Nee-Ann Trading Co.

Family operated and family friendly since

400 Canyon Road, Santa Fe, ventanafineart.com

Arroyo Vino

218 Camino La Tierra, Santa Fe, 505-9832100, arroyovino.com

Susan's Fine Wine and Spirits â&#x20AC;&#x192;

1005 S St. Francis, Santa Fe, 505-984-1582, sfwineandspirits.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

E A T & DRI N K LOCAL G UID E

seasonal • local • organic 218 Gold Ave SW, ABQ 505-265-4933 hartfordsq.com

ALBUQUERQUE

Ajiaco Colombian Bistro

Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by the diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. 3216 Silver SE, 505-2662305, ajiacobistro.com

Artichoke Café

Fresh, local, seasonal ingredients, classic French techniques, extensive wine list, private dining, catering, and great atmosphere. 424 Central SE, 505-243-0200, artichokecafe.com

Campo at Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

Rio Grande Valley cuisine rooted in seasonal organic ingredients from our own farm. 4803 Rio Grande NW, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com

Cutbow Coffee

The culmination of more than 25 years' experience by one of the nation's most accomplished artisan coffee roasters, Paul Gallegos. 1208 Rio Grande NW, 505-355-5563, cutbowcoffee.com

Farina

Starting with the finest organic flour, our pizza crusts are made by hand and topped with the freshest ingredients, including artisan cured meats. 510 Central SE, 505243-0130, farinapizzeria.com

Farina Alto

Farina Alto offers fresh, creative fare. Gather over a glass of wine, a good story, and a phenomenal plate of food. 10721 Montgomery NE, 505-298-0035, farinaalto.com

Farm & Table

Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm. 8917 Fourth Street NW, 505-503-7124, farmandtablenm.com

Grassburger

The feel-good, award-winning burger— 100% grassfed beef, vegan, or poultry!

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

11225 Montgomery and 5600 Coors NW, eatgrassburger.com

Hartford Square

Cozy, downtown eatery; local, organic, and seasonal menu. Breakfast, brunch, lunch, & dinner-to-go. 218 Gold SW, 505-265-4933, hartfordsq.com

Il Vicino

Serving authentic wood oven pizza in Albuquerque and Santa Fe. Multiple locations in Albuquerque and Santa Fe. ilvicino.com

Level 5 Rooftop Restaurant & Lounge

Located on the top floor of Hotel Chaco. Experience a refined, chic, and contemporary atmosphere. 2000 Bellamah NW, 505-246-9989, hotelchaco.com

MAS Tapas y Vino

MÁS is a full-service restaurant and tapas bar located in the Hotel Andaluz, 125 Second Street NW, 505-388-0088, hotelandaluz.com/mas-tapas-y-vino

Salt and Board

Salt and Board, a charcuterie-based cork and tap room in the heart of the Brick Light District. 115 Harvard SE, 505-219-2001, saltandboard.com

Savoy Bar & Grill

California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Farm-to-table dining and a casual patio. 10601 Montgomery NE, 505-294-9463, savoyabq.com

Seasons Rotisserie & Grill

Oak-fired grill, local and seasonal ingredients, and the best patio dining in Old Town. 2031 Mountain NW, 505-766-5100, seasonsabq.com

The Cellar

Featuring a large variety of Spanish style authentic tapas and a large selection of local beers, wines, and sangria. 1025 Lomas NW, 505-242-3117, thecellartapas.com

The Grove Cafe & Market

The Grove features a bustling café experi-

ence serving breakfast, brunch, and lunch. 600 Central SE, 505-248-9800, thegrovecafemarket.com

The Shop Breakfast & Lunch

Latin and creole influenced spin on American classics. Serving breakfast and lunch Tuesday through Saturday. 2933 Monte Vista NE, 505-433-2795

Trifecta Coffee Company

We roast coffee and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods are made in house. 413 Montano NE, 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeecompany.com

Zinc Restaurant & Wine Bar

A three-level bistro featuring contemporary cuisine and late night bar bites. 3009 Central NE, 505-254-9462, zincabq.com

SANTA FE

Anasazi Restaurant & Bar

Contemporary American cuisine inspired by locally sourced seasonal ingredients. 113 Washington, 505-988-3030, innoftheanasazi.com

Arable

Inspired by the bounty of New Mexico, and the small community of Eldorado, Arable was born. 7 Avenida Vista Grande, 505-303-3816, arablesantafe.com

Arroyo Vino

We serve progressive American fare inspired by our on-premise garden and local purveyors. 218 Camino La Tierra, 505-983-2100, arroyovino.com

Dolina

We serve modern American brunch with Eastern European influences. Open 7 days a week. 402 N Guadalupe, 505-982-9394, dolinasantafe.com

Dr. Field Goods Kitchen / Butcher Shop & Bakery

Santa Fe Brewing

Eloisa

TerraCotta

Hervé Wine Bar

The Compound Restaurant

2860 Cerrillos, 505-471-0043 and 505-474-6081, drfieldgoods.com

Creative, elevated takes on traditional New Mexican fare plus tasting menus and craft cocktails. 228 E Palace, 505-982-0883, eloisasantafe.com Enjoy a glass of of locally produced D.H. Lescombes wine with your meal in our spacious comfortable lounge. 139 W San Francisco, 505-795-7075, lescombeswinery.com/santa-fe-herve

Iconik Coffee Roasters

Come visit the best specialty coffee shop in Santa Fe with amazing food, unique coffees roasted onsite, and super fast high-speed internet. 314 S Guadalupe and 1600 Lena, 505-428-0996, iconikcoffee.com

Il Piatto

An authentic Italian farmhouse experience, sourcing its ingredients directly from local farms and ranches. 95 West Marcy, 505-984-1091, ilpiattosantafe.com

L’Olivier

Serving classic French dishes made with local ingredients and Southwest influences. 229 Galisteo, 505-989-1919, loliviersantafe.com

Loyal Hound

Locally sourced modern comfort food paired with craft beer, cider, and wine. 730 St. Michaels, 505-471-0440, loyalhoundpub.com

Madame Matisse

A cafe and bakery with French specialties. 1291 San Felipe, 505-204-7869, madamematisse.com

Ohori's Coffee Roasters

The original source for locally roasted coffee beans, gifts, and gathering. 505 Cerrillos and 1098 St. Francis, 505-982-9692, 507 Old Santa Fe Trail, ohoriscoffee.com

Paper Dosa

Bringing fresh, authentic homestyle South Indian dishes to your table. These bright and exciting flavors will leave you wanting more. 551 W Cordova, 505-930-5521, paper-dosa.com

The beer made with the spirit of the Southwest! Multiple locations in Santa Fe and Albuquerque, santafebrewing.com Seasonally changing, globally inspired cuisine and an extensive, value-priced wine list. 304 Johnson, 505-989-1166, terracottawinebistro.com Chef Mark Kiffin preserves a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution. 653 Canyon Road, 505-982-4353, compoundrestaurant.com

GREATER NEW MEXICO Black Bird Saloon

Genuine food and drink, wild west style. 28 Main Street, Los Cerrillos, 505-438-1821, blackbirdsaloon.com

Black Mesa Winery

Black Mesa Winery is an award-winning New Mexican winery using only New Mexican grapes. 1502 Highway 68, Velarde, 505-8522820, blackmesawinery.com

Blades’ Bistro

Chef and owner Kevin Bladergroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. 221 Highway 165, Placitas, 505-771-0695, bladesbistro.com

Michael's Kitchen Restaurant and Bakery

Regionally inspired eats with a tongue-incheek menu in a casual space decorated with knickknacks. 304-C N Pueblo, Taos, 575-758-4178, michaelskitchen.com

Pajarito Brewpub & Grill

Open for lunch Tuesday–Sunday. Open for dinner every day. Happy hour Tuesday– Sunday 2–5pm. 30 craft beers on tap. 614 Trinity, Los Alamos, 505-662-8877, pajaritobrewpubandgrill.com

Parcht

/pärCHt/= the physical condition resulting from the need to drink wine, eat good food, and shop…in Taos. 103 E Plaza, 575-758-1994, parcht.com

Plaza Cafe Southside

Revel

Posa’s Restaurants

Doc Martin’s

Radish & Rye

The Gorge: Bar and Grill

Born from out family's tradition—we're ready to welcome yours. 3466 Zafarano, 505-424-0755, plazacafesouth.com Posa’s tamales—our New Mexican tradition since 1995. 1514 Rodeo and 3538 Zafarano, 505-820-7672 or 505-473-3454, santafetamales.com Farm-inspired cuisine: simple yet innovative food and drinks sourced locally whenever possible. 548 Agua Fria, 505-930-5325, radishandrye.com

Red Sage

Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder is perfect for your next romantic night out. Fare rotates seasonally. 20 Buffalo Thunder Trail, 505-819-2056, buffalothunderresort.com

505-984-1091 | ilPiattoSantaFe.com 95 West Marcy Street, Downtown Santa Fe

South Indian cuisine

Farm to table, elevated comfort food, in a fast-casual environment. 304 N Bullard, Silver City, 575-388-4920, eatdrinkrevel.com 30+ year Wine Spectator Award Winner. Patio dining, fresh local foods, and live entertainment. 125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-1977, taosinn.com Our menu is straightforward, yet eclectic, and chock-full of favorites made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible. 103 E Plaza, 575-758-8866, thegorgebarandgrill.com

The Skillet

American, southwest, vegetarian friendly. 619 12th Street, Las Vegas, 505-563-0477, giant-skillet.com

Creative Casual Cuisine 221 Highway 165, Placitas 505-771-0695, www.bladesbistro.com Chef and owner Kevin Bladergroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an award-winning wine list.

ON OUR

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edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

We’re always trying new local products. Take a look at what our staff is enjoying this month. Drop us an email at info@ ediblenm.com if you know a product we should try. Traditional Aceto Balsamico of Monticello We’ll take all the deliciousness of this cask-aged balsamic vinegar, one drop at a time. This vinegar is not just a favorite of New Mexicans, it is found on counters around the world. Old Monticello’s traditional balsamic has only one ingredient—organic sweet, white grapes. Old Monticello Organic Farm uses classic Italian grapes, Trebbiano and Occhio di Gatto, plus a proprietary blend of others, most of which date to the Roman Empire. We love it on a scoop of vanilla ice cream or drizzled on a Caprese salad. organicbalsamic.com Asleep at the Wheel American Single Malt Whiskey We at edible love our whiskeys, and this is a special bottle capped prior to the opening of Glencoe Distillery in July of 2018. It makes a great old fashioned, or simply enjoy over ice. The smoky flavor conjures up the historic tales of Billy the Kid, Geronimo, and Black Jack Pershing, all legends who spent time on the Billy the Kid National Scenic Byway where you will find Glencoe Distillery. Stop in for a crafted cocktail and grab a bottle of whiskey, rum, vodka, gin, or coffee liqueur. facebook.com/GlencoeDistillery High Desert Wildflower Honey from Clayshulte Honey Farm We picked up this jar of sweet nectar at FARMesilla in the town of Mesilla. It’s from Clayshulte Honey Farm, just down the road from FARMesilla. Recommended in one-teaspoon servings, the blend is perfect for sweetening a cup of tea or pairing with cheese. We love drizzles on toast with figs and brie. FARMesilla is a market that is about ninety percent locally grown and sourced. facebook.com/FARMesilla Holy Jolokia Pepper Sauce This sauce comes from the Bhut Jolokia, a chile pepper from India. A portion of bottle sales helps fund research and education at the Chile Pepper Institute in Las Cruces, and the sauce is a celebration of the Chile Pepper Institute’s 25th Anniversary. Rated at one million Scoville Units, you will want to use this sauce sparingly. It has a perfect balance of flavor and heat and is a great addition to egg dishes. We picked up our bottle at Adobe: Modern in Mesilla, where you can find an array of home furnishings, local food products, and gifts. cpi.nmsu.edu and adobemod.com

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EdibleNewMexico TAG us or use #edibleNM and your pics could be featured here.

champagneandcookies Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s here!! Hatch Green Chile Season!! Roasted Big Jim Hatch Green Chiles from Hatch, New Mexico that I Roasted at home. . .#edibleNM

honeyandsaltcakeco I couldn't wait to share this cake. I took inspiration from the table place cards, which had a beautiful watercolor scape on them. #edibleNM

fs2supplyco Green chile cheeseburgers?! Yum! Shout out to @wendyforbesnm for repping our Green Chile tee at the @ediblenewmexico Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown! #ediblesmackdown #edibleNM

lamesacoffee We love showing our customers the unique flavors of New Mexican food with dishes like our NM Pork Sliders. The slider is loaded with Carne Adovada. @ediblenewmexico

edible New Mexico | FALL 2019

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