Spring 2022: Landscape by edible New Mexico

edible NEW MEXICO

THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

Landscape

ISSUE 78 · SPRING MARCH / APRIL 2022

photos: doug merriam

FARM INSPIRED CUISINE

505 CERRILLOS, SANTA FE AT THE LUNA CENTER

radishandrye.com 505 .930.5325

Food Waste USA (see story on page 58). Photo by Billy Joe Miller.

Spring

MARCH / APRIL 2022

DEPARTMENTS 2

GRIST FOR THE MILL By Willy Carleton and Briana Olson

CONTRIBUTORS

LOCAL HEROES The Burque Bakehouse, Still Spirits, New Mexico Hard Cider, Israel Rivera

LIQUID ASSETS

48 FACES OF FOOD The Kinship of Local Food by Cassidy Tawse-Garcia

66 LOCAL SOURCE GUIDE AND EAT & DRINK LOCAL GUIDE 71 EDIBLE SIGNATURE SECTION

ON THE COVER

edible NEW MEXICO

THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON

In Labels We Trust by Elena Seeley. Brought to you by Edible Communities in partnership with Food Tank.

80 LAST BITE Vix: re-Phil

Get Happy by Maria Manuela

FRONT OF THE HOUSE Opuntia Cafe by Lynn Cline

TOUCH AND GROW Flood, Fire, and Flowers by Marisa Thompson

COOKING FRESH Waste Not, Want Not

FEATURES 54 DIRT A Love Story by Susan DeFreitas

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

Landscape

ISSUE 78 · SPRING MARCH / APRIL 2022

Food Waste Tapestry. Photo by Billy Joe Miller.

58 BREAKING DOWN What Does Food Waste Look Like? by Nancy Zastudil

EDIBLENM.COM

GRIST FOR THE MILL

Landscape What shapes the land? Limits of rainfall, altitude, and sun; roads and buildings and power lines; stories and memories and visions. To draw our landscape in eighty pages, through words and photographs, is an exercise in perspective. In this issue, we take a ground-level view. We find a land shaped by harnessing the power of decay and renewal, by collective concern channeled into collaboration and care, by a sense of ambience and playfulness and constructive creativity, by a spirit of resilience and by the power of friendships. Susan DeFreitas offers an ode to soil, guiding us through a tour of various local businesses working like alchemists to transform organic waste into life-building compost. Nancy Zastudil’s piece on food waste and art builds on the theme, giving us insight into local artists and farmers working to find better uses of an industrial-waste stream that would otherwise fill landfills and exacerbate climate pollution. In their work, we find a reminder to take time to find beauty in what is lost before giving it new life and meaning. We find an atmosphere of life and creativity at Opuntia Cafe and in the imaginatively repurposed interior landscape of Happy Accidents. We meet a land-based network of cultivators working together to care for each other and their communities in precarious times. Finally, we are reminded by Marisa Thompson, as she periodically revisits the bosque after a fire and a flood, that wild plants provide even more than food, medicine, aesthetic beauty, habitat, and ecological stability; they offer a sense of connectedness and a wellspring of inspiration—in a word, friendship.

PUBLISHERS

Bite Size Media, LLC Stephanie and Walt Cameron

EDITORS

Willy Carleton and Briana Olson

COPY EDITORS

Marie Landau and Margaret Marti

DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron

PHOTO EDITOR Stephanie Cameron

EVENT COORDINATOR Natalie Donnelly

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Cyndi Wood

VIDEO PRODUCER Walt Cameron

SALES AND MARKETING Kate Collins, Melinda Esquibel, and Gina Riccobono

PUBLISHING ASSISTANT Cristina Grumblatt

Mailing Address: 3301-R Coors Boulevard NW #152, Albuquerque, NM 87120 info@ediblenm.com ediblenm.com

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Willy Carleton and Briana Olson, Editors

Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers

EDIBLENM.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at INFO@EDIBLENM.COM Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible New Mexico six times a year. We distribute throughout New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. Subscribe online at ediblenm.com/subscribe

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

Gallery Ethnica · 933 Baca St, Santa Fe · 505-557-6654 · galleryethnica.com

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Honored to be named 2021 Chef of the Year by the

lunch • dinner • bar

for menus & reservations CompoundRestaurant.com 505.982.4353 653 Canyon Road Santa Fe

photo: Gabriella Marks

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

CONTRIBUTORS STEPHANIE CAMERON Stephanie Cameron was raised in Albuquerque and earned a degree in fine arts at the University of New Mexico. Cameron is the art director, head photographer, recipe tester, marketing guru, publisher, and owner of edible New Mexico and The Bite.

BRIANA OLSON Briana Olson is a writer and the co-editor of edible New Mexico and The Bite. She was the lead editor for the 2019 and 2021 editions of The New Farmer’s Almanac, and also works with Agrarian Trust, a nonprofit supporting land access for next generation farmers.

WILLY CARLETON Willy Carleton is the co-editor of edible New Mexico and The Bite. He is the author of Fruit, Fiber, and Fire: A History of Modern Agriculture in New Mexico, which explores the cultural and environmental history of apples, cotton, and chiles in our region.

MARISA THOMPSON Marisa Thompson is New Mexico State University’s extension urban horticulture specialist. In addition to landscape mulches and tomatoes, her research interests include abiotic plant stressors like wind, cold, heat, drought, and soil compaction. She writes a weekly gardening column, Southwest Yard & Garden, which is published in newspapers and magazines across the state. Readers can access the column archives and other hort-related resources at desertblooms.nmsu.edu. Find her on social media @NMdesertblooms.

LYNN CLINE Lynn Cline is the award-winning author of The Maverick Cookbook: Iconic Recipes and Tales From New Mexico. She’s written for Bon Appétit, the New York Times, New Mexico Magazine, and many other publications. She also hosts Cline’s Corner, a weekly talk show on public radio’s KSFR 101.1 FM. CASSIDY TAWSE-GARCIA Cassidy Tawse-Garcia is a storyteller, cook, and PhD student in human geography at the University of New Mexico. She lives in Albuquerque with her cat, Ham. She is the owner of Masa Madrina, a pop-up food project. SUSAN DEFREITAS Susan DeFreitas is the author of the novel Hot Season, which won a Gold IPPY Award for Best Fiction of the West-Mountain Region, as well as a book coach and freelance editor. Before going back to school for her MFA, she was a green-tech blogger and journalist covering topics related to sustainable living. In recent years, inspired by the potentials of regenerative agriculture, she’s returned to journalism to cover sustainable agriculture. She makes her home in Santa Fe.

NANCY ZASTUDIL Nancy Zastudil is an editor, writer, and curator working toward equitable representation in and access to the arts. She has more than fifteen years of experience in arts administration, regularly edits artist books and exhibition catalogs, and has written for Arts and Culture Texas, Art Lies, Hyperallergic, Southwest Contemporary, and more. Zastudil holds an MA in curatorial practice from California College of the Arts and a BFA in painting and drawing from the Ohio State University. Find her at thenecessarian.com.

MARIA MANUELA Maria Manuela is a freelance writer who lives in Corrales with her three pups, Darla, Hamlet, and Pea. The former arts editor of UNUM Magazine, she writes regularly for New Mexico Magazine and is currently working on a book of magical realism folktales based on New Mexico history. EDIBLENM.COM

LOCAL HEROES

THE BURQUE BAKEHOUSE BAKER/BAKERY

AN INTERVIEW WITH SARAH CICCOTELLO, FOUNDER/CO-OWNER Photos by Stephanie Cameron

A variety of pastries at The Burque Bakehouse.

There’s probably flour in my hair and dough under my nails. A great day off involves putzing around thrift stores and chips and salsa. I keep bees, love candy, and count the days till Christmas. Oh yeah, I studied history and language at the University of New Mexico, attended the culinary program at Central New Mexico Community College, and studied bread and pastry at the San Francisco Baking Institute. I’ve also worked the ovens at Los Poblanos, The Compound, and Slate Street Cafe.

Each week we are cranking out more pastry and bread than we ever have before. I’m thrilled that Albuquerque is into what we are making. When you decide to visit our shop, you are supporting the idea behind the Bakehouse, a place where people can make food and bake for a living with humanity. We are committed to using local, organic, and sustainable ingredients when possible, while remaining accessible to most people. It is not convenience food. For something that can be eaten so quickly and appear so simple, a lot of time, thought, and care is behind it.

As a small-batch bakery, you often sell out of your most coveted baked goods. How do you handle distraught customers? Do you have a most popular item? At the risk of inviting others to fall for our lesser-known favorites, what do you think more customers would enjoy if they tried it?

I’m always going to advocate for the classic butter croissant. That’s how this whole experiment of The Burque Bakehouse started. It’s not as flashy or exciting as one of our seasonal items, so it often gets overlooked.Gabe A good croissant should make a beautiful mess as flaky Romero at Campo. Photo by Stephanie Cameron. shards of outer layers reveal the soft, buttery honeycomb underneath.

What’s a quick version of your bio for readers?

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

Amazing coffee, incredible food.

™

1600 Lena St. & 314 S. Guadalupe St. in beautiful Santa Fe

Pre-order food and coffee for take-out or dine-in @ Iconikcoffee.com Free parking everywhere

EDIBLENM.COM

Left: Pineapple danish with rum-glazed pineapple. Top right: Sarah Ciccotello of The Burque Bakehouse. Bottom right: Assorted bread.

It should taste and smell of good butter. We start with great ingredients, and we take a lot of care in building flavor over time. Our croissant is handcrafted over three days, and I’m very proud to say it’s not plain at all. In addition to a set of standard offerings, you regularly introduce seasonal treats. Can you describe your creative process for varying the menu or recount the origin story for a standout seasonal specials? I was drawn toward working in restaurants with seasonally based menus. It’s my time as a pastry chef in those kitchens that shines through now. The rhythm of changing things up based on seasons and the anticipation of what fruits and vegetables are coming up adds excitement to the very unromantic side of baking that is methodical, repetitious, and laborious. I also love to eat and cook, and I surround myself with others who feel similarly. We spend much time at the bakery talking about food— what we’re craving or what we’re making for dinner. The gems end with “Let’s turn that into a croissant!” The Swiss dish raclette, with melted cheese, potatoes, and cornichon, spawned the Potato Danish, and cacio e pepe is the heart of our Piñon, Pecorino, and Black Pepper Sourdough. hat is the Bread Lab Collective and what led you to partner with W this organization? Continuing the human tradition of making bread is part of why I’m 8

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

drawn to baking. I’m fascinated that we humans have been eating bread for thousands of years. It is a staple food, it always has been, and I feel strongly it always should be. When the food system shifted to prioritize convenience, the result was breads that can sit on a grocery store shelf for months. What we sacrificed was nutrition and flavor. The Burque Bakehouse committed to join the Bread Lab Collective—a group of bakers, millers, plant breeders, teachers, and students across four countries—to bake, sell, and teach about a bread that is “approachable, accessible, and affordable.” The loaf should contain “no more than seven ingredients,” “contain no non-food,” use “at least 60% whole wheat—preferably 100%,” and be “priced under $6.” Our Honey Wheat Pan Bread is 100 percent whole grain and delicious, and it is our version of the collective’s “Approachable Loaf.” We proudly use Mountain Mama Milling whole wheat flour out of southern Colorado, cornmeal from Santa Ana Pueblo, and local honey. What is your favorite breakfast? When most of New Mexico is eating breakfast, I’m usually hours deep into work. That said, the Frontier breakfast burrito smothered in an embarrassing number of ladlefuls of warm green chile salsa from the cauldron is what I crave. 640 Broadway SE, Albuquerque, 505-234-6294, burquebakehouse.com

indulge in the essence of true santa fe dining MARDI GRAS Tuesday, March 1 Featuring Sazerac Cocktail Rye Whisky, Absinthe & Bitter $15ea

ST. PATRICK’S DAY Thursday, March 17 Enjoy The Irish Mule Irish Whiskey, Ginger Beer & Lime $15ea

EASTER BRUNCH Sunday, April 17 11:00am to 2:30pm 3-Course Prix Fixe Menu $75 per person / $30 under 12 yrs. Reservations Recommended

Executive Chef Daniel Hurtado

A NA SAZ I RO S E WO O D I N N O F T H E A N A S A Z I 1 1 3 WA S H I N G TO N AV E N U E | S A N TA F E , N M 8 7 5 0 1 ( 5 0 5 ) 9 8 8 - 3 0 3 0 | rosewoodhotels.com F O R R E S E RVAT I O N S , P L E A S E C A L L ( 5 0 5 ) 9 8 8 - 3 0 3 0

RESTAURANT BAR & LOUNGE

LOCAL HEROES

STILL SPIRITS BEVERAGE PROGRAM

AN INTERVIEW WITH ZAC HULME, OWNER Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Left: Zac Hulme, owner of Still Spirits, mixing up cocktails. Right: Jalapeño Southside with jalapeño vodka, and Red No. 4 with hibiscus vodka.

Originally from Melbourne, Australia, Zac grew up in southeastern Vermont and spent time in New York before moving to Albuquerque to attend the graduate architecture program at the University of New Mexico. He is the cofounder and owner of Still Spirits. You definitely opened ahead of the curve. How does it feel to see the local distillery movement starting to catch up to breweries? What can local distilleries do better than those producing at a more industrial scale? We got the eighth license in New Mexico, in 2017. Now the state has issued forty-two licenses! At one point in early US history, there were thousands of distilleries, so I see it as a renaissance, a movement based on history and invigorating small-scale, localized production. The big distilleries mostly make one product or a couple of related ones, but us little guys can crank out a couple of cases of something and continue to experiment, evolve, and refine. 10

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

You somewhat recently rebranded your gin. What’s the story? Did the recipe change along with the packaging and the name? About the time we went to get our brand copyrighted, we started seeing a vodka on the shelf with the same name, Idol, so our application got rejected. After doing a bit more research, we decided we liked the sound of my name, Hulme, as a gin. It’s of Scottish origin and that seemed like a good fit, and although it’s a common name, we were able to get a provisional registration so that others can’t use it. The packaging has changed but the recipe has not. Strong spirits lay the foundation for exceptional cocktails. What else is essential to a stellar cocktail program? Approaching cocktail design like food—being aware of how ingredients interact and diligently working on their balance in the drink. It’s normal to spend hours working on proportions. Often we will stall out on a drink and leave the syrups or whatever we created for that Ahmed Obo, founder and chef-owner of Jambo Cafe.

Join us in celebrating 10 years in business!

Birthday Party Farm Bash

MAY 22 | 4PM | $55 In partnership with Street Food Institute & Ex Novo Brewing, music by Baracuntanga, party favors & more

Birthday Dinner

JUNE 6 | 7PM | $150 Cocktail mingle, five-course wine dinner, music, immersive film installation

Alumni Guest Chef Series Five-course dinner $115 Wine pairings $30

May 3 – Chef Steve Riley, Albuquerque, NM May 11 - Chef Sean Sinclair, Lamy, NM May 18 – Chef Ka’ainoa Ravey, Kona, Hawaii May 25 – Chef Carrie Eagle, Jacksonville, Florida Visit our website to book your events.

8917 4th St NW

Albuquerque, NM 87114

505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com Dinner hours: Tuesday-Saturday open at 5pm

Visit our website to make your reservation or book an upcoming event. EDIBLENM.COM

Left: Zac Hulme. Right: Manhattan, served up.

particular creative effort lying around and then pick it up again weeks or months later, approaching the same problem with new perspective and treating it as an iterative, evolving process rather than throwing the whole effort away when it doesn't work out right the first time. What is your all-time favorite vodka infusion? How did it come about and how do you use it? Tough question! I think the jalapeño is my favorite, and it has found its way into a lot of drinks in our tasting room—the flavor and heat just go so well with everything. A good example of looking to food for a cue in pairing flavors, jalapeños are great in so many different dishes. The origins are murky, but the Lavender Jalapeño Gimlet was the first drink we made that featured it; more than likely, we made the infusion and then left it lying around until some moment of inspiration. Describe your creative process for creating new drinks. What role does local food or food in general play in inspiring you? It’s haphazard. Typically we find something that seems like a good idea, something that seems fun. Take the Mr. Spicy, for example: it has our tonic syrup, jalapeño vodka, and honey-ginger syrup—all stuff we’ve invented for one reason or another—and mixes the sweet and savory to great effect. Cocktails are most expressive when they combine the same elements you might find in a great meal. 12

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

Do you have a favorite bar book? I really enjoy Meehan’s Bartender Manual. He does a great job of communicating all the various components that make for a great cocktail experience—not just the ingredients or preparation but all the ineffable stuff that goes into that moment you take a sip. It’s easy to forget that the environment (light, music, physical space) is part of what you remember when you think about that glass you enjoyed. What’s a local food issue that’s important to you? Farming. We need more of it here, we need more backyard gardens, we need more small-scale production based nearby. Is there anything else you’d like to share with edible readers? I hope that everyone who can makes an effort to support the businesses that care about our community, and that we support those that reflect and act on the values we share. I spend my money at places that see me as more than a customer, ones that support my ideals. Few decisions we make have as much impact on the world we live in as who ends up with the benefit of our financial resources. 120 Marble NW, Albuquerque, 505-750-3138, instagram.com/stillspirits

photo: Maura Jane Photography

Spring on the farm There’s nothing quite like the way spring awakens our little corner of the North Valley. As the days lengthen ever so slightly and our dedicated farmers germinate vegetables, herbs and ﬂowers in the greenhouse, there are countless ways to enjoy this magical season with us. Our tranquil property embraces a philosophy that celebrates a balance of wellness, indulgence and relaxation for optimal living. From seasonal spa treatments and award-winning menus to our beautifully-appointed guest rooms and calendar full of stimulating cultural experiences, you’re sure to ﬁnd restoration and inspiration on the farm. Visit lospoblanos.com for additional details and to reserve.

LOCAL HEROES

NEW MEXICO HARD CIDER WINE/CIDER

AN INTERVIEW WITH CRAIG MOYA, OWNER Photos by Douglas Merriam

Craig Moya, owner of New Mexico Hard Cider.

Born in Galisteo, Craig Moya lives in Santa Fe with his wife, Heather, and three kids, Holly, Aiden, and Noelle. After moving to Santa Fe, he worked for the Santa Fe County Fire Department and began to develop the idea for New Mexico Hard Cider. In 2014, after Moya had been with the fire department for five years, New Mexico Hard Cider had grown large enough that he was able to expand the business to full time. What is the backstory to New Mexico Hard Cider? Why cider? It began in 2013 when a friend asked me to help him pick his grandmother’s apple and pear trees before the fruit dropped in her yard. It 14

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

ended up being close to three or four hundred pounds of fruit and we were trying to figure out what to do with it. All the normal things went through our minds, until we ultimately decided to ferment it to drink and had to figure out how to store that quantity of juice. I began to do research into cider and discovered it was an up-and-coming beverage and a very niche product at that point. From there, everything started to fall into place. It turned out my uncle had an orchard in Villanueva that was overgrown and needed work. We began to restore that orchard while I home-brewed and waited for federal and state licensing to come through. Once we had the licenses, we obtained funding for equipment and to set up a taproom in downtown Santa Fe.

Housed in the historic Hacienda, one of John Gaw Meem’s residential masterpieces, the Hacienda Spa at Los Poblanos provides a singular experience. The intimacy of the space combined with distinct architectural and design elements craft an environment that explores the senses – sight, smell, touch and sound.

introducing a serene wellness getaway i n the h e art of the rio grande valley Discover a deeply relaxing environment and a profound sense of well-being at the new Hacienda Spa at Los Poblanos. The surrounding landscape and serene ambiance evoke a sense of wellness that completely awakens all the senses. Informed by the elements of nature, the unique treatments and elegant space work harmoniously to provide the ultimate enchanting experience that is both relaxing and rejuvenating. Visit us at lospoblanos.com for treatment and reservation information.

New Mexico Hard Cider taproom in Santa Fe.

In addition to the apples from your family’s orchard in Villanueva, some of the ciders are made from apple trees you help tend at El Rancho de las Golondrinas. What have you learned about cider making from tending the trees yourself? How would you describe the flavor of these locally grown ciders?

when you do have a crop, if you don’t get a late freeze, picking is labor intensive. Once everything is picked, then crushing, pressing, and either pasteurizing or fermenting the juice is required. I think the major obstacle is time, money, and an infrastructure (processing facility) that can support apple growers.

I have learned a lot from tending the trees. There is a lot of technique that goes into trimming the trees, the soil, water, weather, insects, and animals. The major thing is that New Mexico has vast and different climates. For example, just from Villanueva to Chimayó, one might have a huge bumper crop while the other was caught in a freeze and is barren. Due to that fact, we have been experimenting with trimming trees to try to save the buds from a late frost, with mixed results.

What’s your favorite variety of apple to use to make cider?

Terroir has a huge impact on fruit in New Mexico, especially in apples. You can really taste which orchard the apple is from. Some have real rich and sweet juice, while others are more acidic and mellow, even among the same variety from different orchards. Apples have a long history in New Mexico and grow well here. What stands in the way of more farmers growing apples for local cider? Apples do have a long history here in New Mexico. I believe what stands in the way of farmers is the fact that it’s a lifelong crop, meaning you plant an orchard and you will not see a full crop for four to six years. It takes a lot of land to maintain the trees with proper spacing; 16

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

My favorite variety of apples has to be crab apples, especially to make cider. They are mainly wild apples so are highly acidic and bitter, and some have high sugar also, so the complexity really comes through in the finished cider. What’s your favorite winter meal to eat alongside a glass of cider? Anything from a pork chop and mashed potatoes to red chile pork stew. Is there a local food issue that is particularly important to you? I think one issue that resonates with me personally is young farmers’ access to land and water. It is becoming unattainable due to land prices and the development taking place on our limited irrigable land. Is there anything else you’d like to share with edible readers? My last thought is that my family would love to thank all our loyal customers, family, and friends that supported us during the shutdown. Thank you! 505 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-231-0632, instagram.com/nmcider

VEGETARIAN KITCHEN Fine International Vegetarian and Vegan grab and go including ready to serve complete meals.

Grab Our Fresh and Delicious Food at:

VISIT US IN NOB HILL and dine on our beautiful patio.

116 Amherst Dr SE Albuquerque

ALBUQUERQUE La Montañita Co-op–Nob Hill & Rio Grande Keller's Farm Fresh at Eubank and Candalaria Lowe’s Market on Lomas Moses Kountry Natural Foods Silver Street Market Triangle Market in Sandia Crest Lovelace Main Hospital Heart Hospital of New Mexico Sandia National Labs UPC at UNM UNM Hospital in La Cocina Cafeteria Presbyterian Rust Hospital - Rio Rancho Optimum Human & Southwest Women's Oncology

SANTA FE La Montañita Co-op Kaunes Market Eldorado Supermart at the Agora

LOS ALAMOS Los Alamos Cooperative Market Los Alamos National Laboratory

ESPAÑOLA Center Market

TAOS Cid’s Market India Bowl: pea curry cooked in a fresh tomato masala, twice-baked curried potent potato, kicheree-seasoned mung beans and rice, fresh yogurt raita. Vegan option available.

GALLUP La Montañita Co-op

CATERING AVAILABLE

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LOCAL HEROES

ISRAEL RIVERA, THE SHOP CHEF, ALBUQUERQUE Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Left: Buttermilk-brined fried chicken thigh, gochujang, black garlic mayo, and house-made pickles. Right: Israel Rivera, chef and owner of The Shop.

Let’s start with the bio. How would you write it? I’m a thirty-five-year-old chef from Albuquerque, no formal education, high school dropout, recovering alcoholic. If I can do it, so can you. I learned on the job, through staging and completely throwing myself into the kitchen life and trying my best (and continuing to try my best) to learn as much as possible. I was really lucky to have had very supportive friends, family, and chefs. Lots of cooks never have that. How much does the availability of local ingredients or products shape the menu at The Shop? The Shop’s menu has changed a lot since we first started. One of my main goals when opening The Shop was to make sure we were a neighborhood place, and I really wanted to cement ourselves into this community. I think we’ve done that, and as we discovered the wants and needs of our community, we evolved the menu and our space to really give our customers what they wanted. I will always 18

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

have my own vision about the menu and the food we serve. At first, I only wanted to do what I wanted to do, but as it became more about feeding people and running a successful business and creating a good relationship with our customers, it became much less about my ego and more about the food itself. I wanted to believe that I knew what people wanted and what I wanted to serve them, but by really trying to listen to our customers, the menu and the entire vibe of The Shop has become something much more organic and amazing that I could have never come up with by myself. As far as local ingredients, it’s more than the ingredient itself. Not only do we use produce from local farms, but we use lots of locally made goods as well—from the bread we serve to the coffee we sell. Even our merchandise is made from a small, local business. As for the locality of the ingredients, it really does give us some amazing opportunities to be seasonal and connect with our community in new ways through our food.

Left: Duck Hash with potato and brussels sprout hash and duck confit served on a bed of red chile. Right: Chilaquiles with roasted pork shoulder.

Who or what have been your main culinary influences over the years? That’s a good question. Early on in my career, my main influences were the big-name, fine-dining chefs out there, the ones who were always on the top-one-hundred lists of food and such. I honestly thought that is what you needed to aspire to as a chef. For many reasons, I don’t feel like that anymore. The fine-dining world just isn’t for me. It has always bothered me that the people I believe would appreciate that kind of food the most, the people who cook it, almost never get a chance to eat that way. It’s crazy. I’ve been to Michelin-starred restaurants and I couldn’t tell you what I ate there; I don’t remember. But I can tell you exactly what I had the first time I went to Yankee Lobster in Boston. It was so good, it changed my world. Real local, seasonal food, prepared freshly and simply. It was amazing. I am constantly amazed by simple, well-made food—that’s what I care about now, and that’s what I aspire to create. Also, I am truly inspired by my friends in the industry. I see them working so hard, building their brands and companies by, again, making amazing and honest food. That inspires me. Big time. I see you out there, Mike, Basit, Siea, Mike W., MQ, Kayla, Kate, Shawn, Tristan, David, and so many more. All of you guys are not only building your own thing, but you are helping build this amazing food community. Just know that I love and am inspired by y’all.

I know a lot of people are not going to like this answer, but I’m actually glad that fine dining doesn’t seem as popular as it once was. Lots of chefs and restaurant folks are doing more casual concepts these days, and I love it. It really makes it more about the food, being comfortable, and enjoying time with your people. That’s what matters. Making really good, honest food is difficult. All your mistakes will show up, and that’s why I appreciate it so much. It’s all about the food. The Shop has stuck to takeout and delivery only since the onset of the pandemic two years ago. What have you learned from this model? The most important thing I’ve learned is just how important it is to have a relationship with your customers. All we wanted to do was keep The Shop alive. By really connecting with our customers, we were able to find out what they wanted and what they needed, and we just had to figure out a way to make it happen. We all learned exactly what it means to be flexible and adapt. Is there a local food issue that is particularly important to you? Just supporting local restaurants, bars, and food people. That’s the bottom line. We all help each other by supporting and building relationships and community. A rising tide raises all ships. Is there anything else you’d like to share with edible readers?

Anything I don’t have to make. I love going to my buddies’ restaurants also—Mighty Mike’s Meats, Magokoro, Rumor Pizza, Tikka Spice, the list is long . . .

Thank you. I know it’s hard to really understand just how grateful we are to all of you. It’s because of you and our customers that I get to make a living doing what I love, and that I’m also able to provide living wages to my staff and give them all the things I never had as a cook in this industry. None of The Shop’s goals or my dreams come true without you. You guys are the best. See y’all soon.

Is there a food trend that you find particularly intriguing these days? Is there one you can’t wait to see disappear?

2933 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque, 505-433-2795, theshopabq.com

What’s your go-to meal on a day off?

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

Sourdough Bread | Pastry | Soup

Fresh Italian Kitchen We proudly support local and organic farmers and producers.

Taos | Santa Fe wildleavenbakery

wildleavenbakery.com

2574 Camino Entrada, Santa Fe Across from our sister restaurant: The Ranch House

505.780.5279 • RusticaSantaFe.com

Get Happy LIQUID ASSETS

THIS BAR IS ALL ABOUT THE FEELING

By Maria Manuela · Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Left: Dapper Daq and Livin’ on a Pear cocktails. Right: Interior at Happy Accidents.

When I sit down in a comfy booth at Happy Accidents cocktail bar in Nob Hill with one of my best girlfriends, it’s early on a cold Friday evening at the start of the new year. We haven’t seen each other in a pandemic-long time. Falling into each other’s worlds through stories about good times and bad is made easier by the casual ambience surrounding us. The bar is vibrant and colorful, a standout in a world filled with pretentious spaces touting stark minimalism. We hear the social white noise of others enjoying themselves: glasses tinkling together over cheers, the sweet cacophony of unfamiliar laughs. We sip fun drinks from cute glasses and catch a little rush of joy. Maybe for the first time in a while. Happy Accidents gets its name from a saying by beloved painter Bob Ross, but nothing in the bar’s menu, decor, or practice is an accident. There are years of experience and loads of intention behind each detail in the nearly six-thousand-square-foot location. 22

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The interior was completely overhauled by owners Kate Gerwin and Blaze Montana, a labor of love that took six months. To build their space, the two employed every ounce of their combined decades of experience consulting on bar projects around the country, and tending bar themselves. They did everything themselves, and I mean everything. The duo covered the ceiling in scrap pieces of Astroturf to soundproof the notoriously noisy spot, taking inspiration from a K-pop studio Gerwin saw in Korea. They built booths, upholstered them in vivid fabrics, and repurposed mannequins to cover an entire wall dubbed “the boob wall.” The pair rebuilt the bar top with ergonomics in mind to accommodate the bartenders and patrons comfortably— both sides of the bar are unusually capacious—then covered its surface in sparkly hot pink, gold, and teal resin. Gerwin and Montana accented the other walls with geometric wallpaper from London, painted all of the floors, built tables with

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Left: Prepping bubble of pear smoke. Middle: “The boob wall.” Right: Hanging monkey lights.

breeze-blocks, and covered the tabletops in more epoxy. They installed hanging monkey lights that Gerwin found in Hong Kong and created fringe lampshades to dim the luminance on other bulbs, making the space comfortable for light-sensitive folks. These are just the aesthetic changes they made, in addition to all the bar equipment they installed. “We want people to come in and feel seen,” Gerwin says. “A lot of mixology bars do things because they want to be seen. But we don’t bartend for ourselves, we bartend for our guests.” Happy Accidents operates as a distillery that creates its own spirits specifically for every cocktail on the menu, which boasts over sixty options. It’s divided into categories by spirit: rum, whiskey, or vodka. My friend and I end up ordering Espresso Martinis, and now that is all I want to drink. A dreamy mixture of Slow Burn’s cold brew, house-made espresso liqueur, vodka, and vanilla topped with fluffy nitro coconut cream, they’re lattes for the nighttime. Gerwin and Montana want patrons to come to the bar ready to chat about what they like to drink. Happy Accidents bartenders are there to help you find something to fit your particular palate, knowing that everyone has a different definition of tasty. “The worst thing you can ask a bartender is ‘What is popular here?’ or ‘What do you like?’” Gerwin tells me while we both giggle. (This is definitely what I asked when I sat down at Happy Accidents.) “Flavor is a perception, and it’s so intangible unless I can ask you questions, like ‘What do you normally drink?’ We have been doing this long enough to know that everyone has a different perception of what good is, and that’s okay.” Other highlights from the menu include highballs, effervescent sips made with your choice of spirit and some form of seltzer (like bubbly water, tonic, or house-made cola). Highballs can be infused with flavor combinations like rosemary and cucumber, pineapple and sage, berry and cassis, and orange and jalapeño; they’re all made with fresh ingredients and artisanal syrups. The Livin’ on a Pear drink—featuring 24

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vodka, pear, manzanilla sherry, and lemon—comes topped with a bubble of pear smoke you pop before imbibing, adding some misty awe to the experience. The ice in Happy Accidents drinks is a highlight too. Made in an ice machine that produces 2,300-pound blocks of sculpture-quality ice, it’s free from all the impurities and minerals that typically make their way into ice. When the big block is ready, Montana carves it into different shapes with a food-grade band saw. “Clear ice is far denser than freezer ice, so it lasts longer in the drinks,” he says. “Plus, it just looks badass.” Inclusivity is the ethos at Happy Accidents. They offer an impressive list of nonalcoholic beverages alongside their craft cocktails. “Just as much care goes into the nonalcoholic drinks as the alcoholic beverages—in fact, sometimes even more,” Gerwin tells me. “We want people to feel that just because they’re not drinking alcohol doesn’t mean they don’t belong in our space. We want people who are recovering, we want people who are pregnant, we want designated drivers, and people who just don’t want to drink to feel welcome in our bar.” The food matches the welcoming nature with unpretentious dishes like a Spinach and Artichoke Dip Grilled Cheese. It comes with a side of fries dusted in a creole seasoning that hook us so that my girlfriend and I have to pause our storytelling to eat them. We also sample the Butternut Squash Salad, which comes lightly dressed and topped with crunchy candied walnuts and tart goat cheese. The glassware is a trove of vintage that Gerwin has personally collected over the last decade, which adds some authentic sentimentality to the overall ambience. “You see something in the bar and think, ‘Oh, my grandma had this glass.’ It’s that comfort feeling of nostalgia, feeling like you’re welcome, like you are home.” 3225 Central NE, Albuquerque, happyaccidents.info

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FRONT OF THE HOUSE

Opuntia Cafe A SUCCULENT TERRAIN

By Lynn Cline · Photos by Douglas Merriam

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

Left: Opuntia Cafe owners Todd Spitzer and Jeanna Gienke. Right: Fried polenta oysters with the Hemingway cocktail.

High above the earth, a garden oasis awaits—a paradise of plants, water, sunlight, and calm—a retreat from an overwrought world. There’s nourishing, seasonally inspired food, too, along with a menu of tantalizing teas from around the world. If you’ve already visited this visionary space, then you’ll know that we’re talking about Opuntia Cafe, located in the heart of the Santa Fe Railyard. Opuntia quickly amassed a large and loyal following after it opened in 2017 its first plant-scaped teahouse, an airy, light-filled space located in the Baca District of the Santa Fe Railyard. But things reached new heights when Opuntia opened in its new location in the fall of 2020. The second-story space has balcony dining and windows offering stupendous views of the Sangre de Cristos on the horizon and the bustling Santa Fe Farmers’ Market below. Every detail of this beautiful botanical realm was created by co-owners Todd Spitzer and Jeanna Gienke. “When people walk into the space, I want them to feel calm and rejuvenated, even though it’s a busy café,” says Spitzer. “It’s not just about what the space looks like, it’s about how you feel. It should expand your feelings with possibility, rest, or inspiration.” Gienke brought to the project her background in landscape architecture and biophilic design, which is based on bringing our innate connection to nature into the places where we live and work. “It’s important to honor people’s love of nature, so we wanted to make the space as natural as possible, with meandering lines rather than a grid,

and being surrounded by plants,” she says. “I think this is a movement that we’ll be seeing in the future, with more spaces being kind and not so rigid and sterile.” To that end, Opuntia is bursting with life. Cacti, assorted succulents, and tropical plants are everywhere, growing from the walls, lining windows, and encircling the centerpiece of the space—an enchanting koi pond. (As they were in the old space, the plants are for sale, as is pottery by local artists that the restaurant also uses as dishware.) Large overhead doors, skylights, and windows bring in the breeze along with sunlight and mountain views. Open seating arrangements abound, but the design incorporates more secluded areas as well. A row of booths, each sheltered by three walls, offers a degree of privacy. Diners are tucked away beneath large, beguiling photographs of cottonwood trees illuminated in light boxes, faux windows that were created by Santa Fe photographer Janet Russek. Spitzer and Gienke constructed the handsome booths themselves using poplar wood, one of many interior materials that were chosen with intention. “Everything’s minimalistic and made from raw materials,” says Spitzer. “We used reclaimed timber and made our concrete countertops ourselves.” Other visual delights include an artist’s wall for rotating exhibits. Gienke’s artful green thumb reflects her lifelong love of nature and vivid awareness of how being surrounded by nature benefits our health. She and Spitzer worked together, with the help of their comEDIBLENM.COM

Left: Succulents accent the space at Opuntia Cafe. Top right: Avocado toast. Bottom right: Row of private booths at Opuntia Cafe.

munity and friends, to create this vision of a natural space. “Todd’s background is in restaurant design, so we combined our backgrounds and the result is almost an outdoor space,” she says. “Our first space was like that too.” Noted in Time magazine’s Santa Fe listing in “World’s Greatest Places 2021” for its indoor garden and selection of seasonal bowls and toasts, Opuntia is a gathering spot for the community and outof-towners alike. It’s a place where artists and writers can work amid greenery and sip a cup of inspiration—perhaps Goddess of Mercy, a smooth Taiwanese golden oolong with deep, sweet notes. Couples, friends, and families drop in to savor healthy food, such as avocado toast, a luscious blend of avocado, radish, arugula, lemon vinaigrette, shaved Reggiano, and lemon aioli all piled atop a house-made multigrain sourdough bread. Opuntia has just added two exciting new items to the menu— cocktails and dinner. Try pairing a Hemingway, a rum, lime, and grapefruit concoction crafted by mixologist Chris Romero, with a plate of fried polenta oysters and Thai chile lime sauce. You’ll quickly see why this paradisaical place is at the center of the Santa Fe scene. 28

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“We started with a tea culture, but we’ve moved away from that,” Spitzer says. “We focus on clean, extremely healthy food from the Mediterranean and Asian climates. We try to do local sourcing as much as possible and organic whenever possible. The food is healthy, flavorful, and colorful, mostly veggie-based or vegan and you can add on protein like salmon or bacon.” Opuntia’s new home earned the American Institute of Architects New Mexico’s 2021 elevAte Design & Honors Award of Merit for Interior Architecture, which doesn’t surprise acclaimed Santa Fe architect Michael Krupnick of Krupnick Studio, who worked with Spitzer and Gienke on the project. “It has a lot of space even though it’s an indoor café, blurring the lines of inside and outside,” Krupnick says. “You feel grounded, like you’re part of the earth, but you’re also nearly twenty feet above the sidewalk. It’s a place to be intimate with others and with yourself, where writers and artists can go to be with others and also to be with themselves. Bringing water into the second-floor café makes it feel like an oasis, and that in itself, in the desert, is a really grounding feeling.” 1607 Alcaldesa, Santa Fe, 505-780-5796, opuntia.cafe

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TOUCH AND GROW

Flood, Fire, and Flowers

MAKING FRIENDS THROUGH IT ALL Words and Photos by Marisa Thompson

Golden currants in the spring.

When I moved to Los Lunas, a gardener told me that I’ll know when to put my hummingbird feeders out when the golden currants are in bloom in the bosque. I didn’t have much experience with this shrub, Ribes aureum, at the time, but I remembered that a mentor of mine had recommended it as an easy, nearly unkillable, top-pick fruiting plant for New Mexico gardens. The following spring, I visited the trails in Los Lunas at Riverside Park, looking for this flowering shrub, in hopes that it would somehow make me a better birder and help me fill my little yard with hummingbirds. In that first week of April 2019, nearby apple trees were coated in blooms, but most of the species along the river hadn’t leafed out yet— except for the golden currants. I’ve learned that as your eyes adjust to the dappled bosque shade, it becomes easier to pick out the golden currant shrubs. Their leaves, like little green hands, seem to wave hello as though they’re welcoming in the spring. Before meandering too long along on the river trail, you’ll see small, yellow, trumpet-shaped flowers. Sunbeams help. You’ll know them when you see them; it’s like meeting a long-lost friend. Large portions of the Rio Grande bosque flooded that summer. In the first days, it was exciting, but as the weeks went on, I wondered when I should start to worry. Sure, wet feet tolerance is an adaptation 30

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

the native bosque flora have been developing for eons. But roots need oxygen as much as they need water. How long could they last? In mid-July, the river ebbed and the ground dried enough for me to get back in there and investigate. Washed-up branches and mucky debris had piled up against the huge cottonwood trunks and obliterated the trail. Most of the shrubs and forbs were completely denuded of leaves. Without their signature green leaves or yellow flowers, I wasn’t sure I’d be able to locate the golden currants. I didn’t know that I was looking for the wrong colors until bits of bright red foliage flashed from across the mud-scape. Golden currant leaves turn beautiful colors in the fall, when the leaves are senescing—and also in response to a stress event, like prolonged flooding. The black berries of golden currents (and other Ribes species) are delicious, but they usually ripen in late June, early July—when the shrubs that year were submerged in water. I was so glad the shrubs survived the flood that I didn’t even miss the fruit. As I revisited again and again through the end of that growing season and into the next, I looked forward to the warm feeling of reconnection. On April 2, 2021, a fire in the bosque burned about twenty-four acres near that same part of Riverside Park. It felt silly to be worried about a few shrubs when huge trees and adjacent farmhouses and

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Left: Golden currants in the fall. Middle: Fire-scorched ground at Riverside Park in the bosque. Right: Yerba mansa regrowth carpeting the forest floor.

firefighters were also at risk. Indeed, we were all lucky and grateful that firefighters were able to put it out before the fire got too big.

here and there, poking up through the thick white ashes, little sticks of golden currents. They were bare, but there.

Three days later, I walked up to the trailhead, and from there it looked like nothing had happened at all. I compared that experience to visiting after the flood in 2019, and a wash of relief came over me: the trail looked more like its usual self than I could have imagined. I practically skipped down the path to shake hands with those cute shrubs. Along the way, I was happy to see other species living the dream, uninterrupted: indigenous cottonwoods, annual sunflowers, coyote willows, woodbine vines, false indigo bush. The invasive species were still there as well; I knew I had been really worried when the cockleburs made me giggle and I practically hugged a salt cedar. The invasive plants were welcome proof that things were normal. Everything was going to be okay.

Not wanting to miss any new developments, I visited the burn scar as often as I could last summer. Knowing the pluck of invasive species, I expected to see them thriving and even overtaking the site, but the currants, willows, woodbines, and other native plants that kept popping up lifted my spirits.

About five minutes down the winding path, though, the thick forest halted abruptly. I’d found the edge of the burn scar, and I gasped. The difference between the familiar woods behind me and the barren, ashy, unrecognizable wasteland in front of me was disorienting. It wasn’t until I saw the lone branch at the very edgy edge of the untouched forest, covered with cheery green leaves and overly exuberant golden flowers, that I teared up. Through blurry eyes, I started madly taking photos, and as my sight and mind adjusted, I noticed 32

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A few weeks later, I came across a huge swath of yerba mansa regrowth carpeting the forest floor between blackened trunks. Can you imagine my delight? Yerba mansa is famous for its medicinal properties, but that’s not its whole story: this plant forges friendships with ease. Perhaps you’ve seen a person’s eyes light up at its mention. Dara Saville, founder and director of the Yerba Mansa Project, relates: “With crisp blue skies overhead and the striking Sandia Mountains dominating the background, I enter the Rio Grande bosque seeking my old friend yerba mansa (Anemopsis californica).” A necessary ingredient in making friends is shared memories. The whir of hummingbird wings. The fear of flood and fire. The boldness of seedlings and regrowth emerging through ash. The hope of newly opened flowers. The taste of currants, freshly picked from shrubs you thought you’d lost forever.

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COOKING FRESH

Waste Not, Want Not

getting creative with leftovers and surplus Words and photos by Stephanie Cameron

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

According to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, one-third of all food produced worldwide is wasted. While the world wastes about 1.4 billion tons of food every year, the United States discards more food than any other country—nearly 40 million tons, which equates to approximately one pound of food per person every day. Food that sits decaying in landfills has irreversible environmental consequences: wasting food contributes to 11 percent of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions. Taking small actions, we can save food and save money, and ultimately help the planet.

Looking at my own refrigerator for inspiration for this edition of Cooking Fresh, I identified foodstuffs that tend to get overbought, spoil quickly, and get tossed, but that could easily be rescued if you have a repertoire of essential recipes and cooking techniques. Greens, carrots, microgreens, cabbage, cooked veggies, roasted meat, and leftover restaurant meals can all wind up on your plate instead of in the trash. To help you get creative with your bounty, we share some tips and tricks to try before tossing your food.

Soups Making soups and broths is an easy way to clean out your refrigerator. Soup can be as simple as combining just about any vegetable(s) with a broth, an onion, a garlic clove, and some seasonings. Depending on your

Lettuce Soup Prep time: 5 minutes; Cook time: 15 minutes; Total time: 20 minutes • Serves 4 1 1/2 pounds green lettuce 2 large leeks (white and light green parts only), split lengthwise, rinsed well, and sliced 2 tablespoons butter Zest of 1 lemon; reserve the lemon for seasoning 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 1 clove garlic, minced 1/3 cup parsley, chopped 2 cups vegetable or chicken broth 1/2 cup half-and-half, optional

desired texture, leave chunky or puree. You can also make broth and stocks with leftovers and scraps using recipes from our Late Winter 2022 issue (find recipes online at ediblenm.com).

Lettuce isn’t just for salads. If you garden or subscribe to a CSA (community-supported agriculture) box, you are almost guaranteed to have a surplus of lettuce during certain times of the year. This lettuce soup is perfect served cold or warm and is a great way to ensure your leafy greens don’t go to waste. You can use romaine, butter lettuce, sorrel, or salad mix. We don’t recommend iceberg, unless it comes from your farmer; the grocery store variety has no flavor. If using romaine, cut ribs from lettuce and chop. Chop leaves. Cook leeks and lettuce stems in butter in a stockpot over medium heat. Stir and add in lemon zest, salt, and pepper, occasionally stirring, about 8–10 minutes, until tender. Add garlic and cook for 1 more minute. Add lettuce leaves, parsley, and broth, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until lettuce is tender, about 1–2 minutes. In batches, using a blender, blend until very smooth. If using half-andhalf, return the soup to pot, stir in half-and-half, and reheat until steaming but not boiling, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and splash of lemon juice. Serve warm or chilled.

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Ham, White Bean, Greens, and Green Chile Soup Prep time: 5 minutes; Cook time: 25 minutes; Total time: 30 minutes • Serves 6 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 small yellow onion, chopped 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 teaspoon sea salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 4 cups chicken, meat, or vegetable broth 1 bay leaf 4 cups cannellini beans (home-cooked, or drained and rinsed canned beans) 1 pound leftover ham roast (cut into 1/2-inch cubes) 1/2–1 cup New Mexico green chiles (depending on desired heat level) 4 cups packed swiss chard, collard greens, or kale (stems and ribs removed), roughly chopped (2 cups if using frozen greens)

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

Need to use up a leftover ham roast and an abundance of swiss chard, kale, or collard greens? The green chile kicks this recipe up a notch and adds depth of flavor. Heat oil in a dutch oven over medium-high heat and add the onion. Stirring occasionally, cook until translucent, about 5–7 minutes. Add garlic, salt, and pepper. Cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add the broth and bay leaf. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove and discard bay leaf and add beans, ham, and green chiles. Continue to simmer on medium-low heat for 5 minutes. Stir in greens. Cook, stirring often, until greens are wilted and slightly softened, 2–3 minutes.

FREEZING LEAFY GREENS FOR FUTURE USE: For convenience, you can make this soup with frozen greens, without needing to thaw them beforehand. To freeze, first wash and dry greens. Remove stems, and chop leaves into bite-sized pieces to stop the enzyme action that causes greens to decompose. Spread greens out on a baking sheet lined with parchment and place in the freezer for 2–3 hours. Then transfer into an airtight container and return to the freezer. Store up to 3 months. Add directly into soups and stews without thawing.

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Savory Pancakes

Microgreen Savory Pancakes Prep time: 5 minutes; Cook time: 20 minutes; Total time: 25 minutes • Serves 8 3 large organic eggs 1 cup ricotta cheese 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for cooking 1/2 cup garbanzo bean (chickpea) flour 1 garlic clove, minced 2 teaspoons lemon zest 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 cup microgreens, shoots, or sprouts, chopped 2 tablespoons chives, chopped

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

These savory pancakes are a blank canvas just waiting for a burst of flavor from some of the many varieties of microgreens, shoots, and sprouts that frequently end up in our fridges. My refrigerator currently stocks pea shoots, daikon sprouts, and sunflower sprouts. The toppings are endless, from compound butter to harissa and ricotta to more microgreens. They are also a great accompaniment to Lettuce Soup (see recipe on page 35). In a food processor or blender, blend eggs, ricotta, oil, flour, garlic, lemon zest, and salt. Pulse in greens and chives. Heat 1/2 tablespoon of oil in a nonstick or cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Working in batches, add batter 1/4 cup at a time to pan and cook pancakes until bubbles form on top, about 2–3 minutes. Flip and cook until pancakes are browned on the bottom and centers are just cooked through, about 1 minute. Serve with your favorite topping or Lettuce Soup.

STORAGE TIP Maintaining moisture is key to keeping microgreens fresh and crunchy. Store them between damp pieces of paper towels and then seal them in a bag or container. Keep in your refrigerator for up to a week.

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Savory Cabbage Pancakes Prep time: 10 minutes; Cook time: 25 minutes; Total time: 35 minutes • Makes 6 large pancakes 2 extra-large organic eggs 1/2 cup water 1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil 3/4–1 cup all-purpose flour 4–5 cups green and/or purple cabbage or any other veggies listed above, shredded or grated 1 large carrot, grated 3 green onions, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons vegetable oil for frying

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

This Japanese-inspired recipe for okonomiyaki is one way to use up that half head of cabbage left over after making slaw. You can also sub in kale, bean sprouts, radishes, grated broccoli stems, brussels sprouts, or zucchinis. This recipe is adapted from the Japanese Pancake website, japanesepancakes.com. Whisk together eggs, water, soy sauce, and sesame oil in a large bowl. Begin whisking in the flour, in batches, until it forms a thick, smooth batter. Add veggie mix, carrots, and green onions to the batter and stir until vegetables are incorporated and everything is evenly coated. Heat 1/2 tablespoon of oil in a nonstick or cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Working in batches, add 3/4 cup of batter and press down into the hot skillet to form a circle about 6 inches in diameter and 1/2-inch thick. Place a cover on the skillet to help the cabbage soften as it cooks. Cook pancake until it is golden brown on the bottom, about 3–5 minutes, then flip and cook the second side until golden brown, about 2–3 minutes. Place pancakes on a sheet pan and place in oven at 200°F until ready to serve. Add more oil to the skillet as needed as you cook the pancakes. Serve with your favorite hot sauce or sriracha mayo.

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Frittatas Frittatas are easy and a great way to use up raw veggies, leftover cooked veggies and greens, or even leftover stuffing or pasta. One of the best frittatas I ever made was with leftover spaghetti bolognese from a restaurant meal. The basic formula below will

Basic Frittata Formula Prep time: 5 minutes; Cook time: 45 minutes; Total time: 50 minutes • Serves 8 12 organic eggs 3 tablespoons full-fat milk 1/2 teaspoon salt 3–5 cups vegetables or greens of choice, chopped, or 2–3 cups cooked vegetables / greens / restaurant leftovers 1 cup grated or crumbled cheese of your choice, divided in half 1 tablespoon olive oil or 2 tablespoons water Herbs of your choice, chopped, to garnish 42

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work with just about anything you pull out of your refrigerator. If you are like me, over time you will get more and more creative about what ingredients can be used in a frittata, using it as a tool to use up food that might otherwise go to waste.

Preheat oven to 425°F. Whisk together eggs, dairy, and salt until egg yolks and whites are blended (do not over-whisk). Whisk in half of the cheese. If using raw vegetables, warm olive oil over medium heat in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet or oven-safe nonstick skillet. Add raw vegetables and cook until tender, then add any garlic or greens, and cook until fragrant or wilted. Season with salt, to taste. If using precooked veggies or leftovers, add them to the heated skillet. Stir in 2 tablespoons of water and cook until warm. Whisk the eggs once more and pour the mixture over vegetables. Stir with a spatula briefly to combine and distribute the mixture evenly across the pan. Sprinkle the other half of the cheese on top of the frittata. Once the outside edge of the frittata turns lighter in color, about 1 minute, carefully transfer the pan to the oven. Bake for 7–14 minutes, keeping an eye on it and waiting until the eggs are puffy and appear cooked but the center of the frittata jiggles just a bit. Remove the frittata from the oven and place it on a cooling rack. Garnish with herbs and serve.

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Cakes Okay, maybe putting veggies in your cake or muffins won’t make them healthy, but it is another way to empty your overflowing vegetable drawers. From carrots and

Zucchini Carrot Cake Prep time: 10 minutes; Cook time: 1 hour; Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes • Serves 10–12 3 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon cardamom 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg 4 large organic eggs 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar 1 cup vegetable oil 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 cups zucchini, shredded 1 1/2 cups carrots, shredded Powdered sugar for sprinkling the cake 44

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zucchini to peas, parsley, sweet potatoes, and beetroot, there are many creative ways to incorporate veggies into your sweets.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Sift flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices together in a medium bowl. Set aside. In a stand mixer, beat eggs, sugar, and vegetable oil together on medium speed. Add sifted dry ingredients in batches and beat until smooth on medium speed. Stir in zucchini, carrots, and vanilla. (This can be done by hand and without a stand mixer; it just might take a bit more elbow grease.) Lightly grease and flour a bundt pan, and pour in batter. Bake for 45–60 minutes until the top is golden and an inserted toothpick comes out clean. Let cool and sprinkle with powdered sugar.

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Shrubs / Cocktails Making shrubs is easy, and it is a great way to preserve seasonal fruit or use up a surplus of produce. Tomatoes, cucumbers, chile peppers, beets, stone fruits, citrus, and berries all make wonderful

options that can be spiked with alcohol to make great cocktails. Find more shrub recipes from our Early Summer 2021 issue (find recipes online at ediblenm.com).

Red Chile, Honey, and Lime Shrub

the cocktail

Makes 1 pint

Serves 1

2 limes, halved 3/4 cup apple cider vinegar 1/2 cup sugar 1/3 cup honey 1 dried red chile pepper, destemmed, seeded, and crushed In a medium saucepan, bring all ingredients to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until slightly reduced, about 8–10 minutes. Let cool, then strain into a jar. Cover and chill for at least 2 hours and up to 48 hours.

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

2 ounces tequila reposado (we use Five Ducks from Little Toad Creek) 1 1/2 ounces Campari 1 1/2 ounces Red Chile, Honey, and Lime Shrub 1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice 1/2 ounce fresh lime juice Lime wedge for garnish Combine tequila, Campari, shrub, lemon juice, and lime juice in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake until frosty, about 30 seconds. Strain into rocks glass filled with ice and garnish with a lime wedge.

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FACES OF FOOD

The Kinship of Local Food By Cassidy Tawse-Garcia

Harvesting fields at Reunity Farm. Photo by Esha Chiocchio.

On a crisp, bright day in November, we convene at Chispas Farm, located off Saavedra Road, once part of the historic Atrisco Land Grant, a system of colonial land capture that established Albuquerque’s South Valley as an agricultural production area starting in 1692. Intersected by serpentine acequias, Chispas Farm is an inlet of agricultural land in an area quickly shifting under the pressures of gentrification. Under the tarp roof of the outdoor pack station, Carlos McCord of FarmShark Farm organizes us into jobs. I take the lettuce heads from Chavez Farms. Maya packs the apple butter (a new value-added product from Chispas Farm), and Liana and Zoey organize the carrot and beet bunches from Ashokra Farm. Ian Colburn of 48

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solarpunk farm adds dehydrated apple rings, a collaborative project of Dair’s Apple Orchard, located a bit farther south. Together, we fill bags for 120 households, each containing sixteen Albuquerque-grown and -made food products. Half of the bags will go to purchasers through the ABQ Resilience Box project, who will pay $120 for $80 worth of local goodness. This price point allows us to distribute the other shares at no cost through ABQ Mutual Aid, a grassroots organization that provides essential resources to community members impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic. This project, the brain-child of Ian and me and run by farmer-members of the Better Together CSA, pays producers full price for produce in a tradition-

Left: ABQ Resilience packed bags, photo by Cassidy Tawse-Garcia. Right: Packed shares ready to roll from Better Together CSA, photo courtesy of Better Together CSA.

ally slow part of the growing season, while getting local produce into more hands through a “redistribution” of resources. With a dozen pairs of hands working quickly and lightly, we distribute $7,550 worth of local food within our community in a single morning.

to really connect individuals with themselves, the land, and also with each other,” says Janice Lucero, a founding member of Pueblo Resurgents, owner of Cotton Blossom Gardens on the Pueblo of Isleta, and self-described “keeper of the land.”

With the pandemic, the world of food—from growing it to shopping for it to, for many, being able to afford it—changed. The assurance of established distribution pathways for small-scale farmers was no exception. What was, and is, exceptional is how, when faced with a crisis, farmers and community members galvanized to take care of each other. Over and over, we are seeing examples of collective care, by and for communities and the farmers within them.

In response to the pandemic, Pueblo Resurgents began biweekly “radical redistribution” of locally grown produce to Isleta community members. “While COVID highlighted a lot of insecurities around systemic dependency . . . it heightened that these are preexisting conditions that have been here for hundreds of years,” says Daryl Lucero, cofounder, coordinator, and cultivator with Pueblo Resurgents. Daryl notes that the dominant methods of providing basic needs in our country are “at odds and in contrast with our own inherent sovereignty to be Indigenous peoples on the land.” Pueblo Resurgents focuses on keeping as much of the food they grow as possible within the Isleta community.

Collaborative farming structures are not new in New Mexico. The very acequia systems that bring water to the fields along the Middle Rio Grande were founded on collective management structures. About ten years ago, the South Valley farm cooperative Agri-Cultura Network began La Cosecha, the first cooperative CSA program in the state (and one that also offers subsidized shares to qualified residents). Drawing from their own land-based history, Pueblo Resurgents began as a community-based “co-operation” to cultivate Indigenous-based food systems on Isleta Pueblo in 2014. Through their Cultivat(ed) apprenticeship, members of Isleta Pueblo gain skills needed to grow food and deepen kinship with their ancestral lands, by reconnecting with food sovereignty and food security on their own terms. “The work is the establishment of healing, and we are using food as the foundation 50

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In 2022, Pueblo Resurgents’ work will continue by getting more local food than ever to community folks who are historically left out of the market. Through micro-grant funding, Pueblo-grown produce will go to every youth in the Isleta Head Start Program. That means 137 kids will go home with fresh produce May through October. Additionally, through a partnership with the Albuquerque chapter of Showing Up for Racial Justice, “one-to-one” CSA shares will be offered to the broader community during the 2022 growing season. Each share purchased will support a share for an Isleta Household.

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Left: Kateri Jojola of Pueblo Resurgents. Right: Janice Lucero of Pueblo Resurgents. Photos courtesy of Pueblo Resurgents.

As I write, the farmer-run Better Together CSA is gearing up for its third season. With eight participating farms and ten farmers, the collective began as a direct response to the pandemic in March 2020. As the world shut down, so did the main outlets for small-scale farmers to sell their produce—farmers markets like the Downtown Growers’ Market and Santa Fe Farmers’ Market. Ian recollects a “vivid memory of pulling [his] hair out” at the beginning of the pandemic, and thinking, “What are we going to do?!” So he, along with Better Together CSA cofounders Zoey Fink of FarmShark and Casey Holland of Chispas Farm, began texting to figure out “how much produce everyone already had in the ground” and what could be done to avert total crisis. “It became clear that a collective approach was the best way forward,” says Zoey as she rocks her baby, Otis, from the living room of the home she shares with her husband, Carlos, in the Polvadera neighborhood of the South Valley. “We had to get the price point we needed, while still being inclusive of as many members of the community as possible.” The Better Together CSA is a “collaborative,” communitysupported agriculture project that runs from April to November, with shares ranging from twenty-two to thirty-five dollars a week, based on income. Better Together accepts Supplemental Nutritional Assistance Program (SNAP), making shares as low as eleven dollars a week for those with SNAP benefits. “The idea from the beginning was mutual aid,” notes Casey, farm manager at Chispas. “We wanted to do what we could to support ourselves and each other in such an uncertain time.” From this energy, the Better Together CSA 52

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has flourished, and the annual ABQ Resilience Box project was able to bring in even more farmers and products at season’s end. New this year, there will be one spring sign-up for the entire CSA season, and as COVID allows, the farmers look forward to more engagement with their community, including some returning to market. Outside of CSAs, honor-system farm stands like the one run by Simple Revolution? Farm! in Albuquerque’s South Valley, and Reunity Farm’s pay-what-you-can stand on historic Agua Fria, offer additional opportunities for customers to engage with local food at a price that works for them. Many farmers also share produce with community mutual aid projects like the ABQ Free Fridge and contribute seeds to Food is Free ABQ, which has distributed thousands of packets of seeds and two hundred garden boxes free-of-charge to the community since early 2020. It all comes back to the “foundation of existing relationships,” Ian explains. “It was awesome to realize we had such good relationships with other farmers. . . . We can really support farmers through supporting each other.” For Daryl, as “there is not a word for farmer in our language,” the best descriptor is “cultivator,” a term that goes beyond food to encompass “kinship, land-based knowledge, and ecology.” For these producers, the essential component of community kinship is that when those who grow the food can make a good living while caring for the land and providing for others, we as a community reach our greatest potential. puebloresurgents.com, bettertogethercsa.org, ffol.org/mutualaid

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DIRT A LOVE STORY

By Susan DeFreitas � Photos by Stephanie Cameron

“H

Composting operation at Reunity Resources.

Healthy soil retains water, acting as a hedge against drought—and hotter and drier conditions in general. It also acts as a sponge when rain comes in hard and heavy (another face of climate change), which helps to prevent topsoil from flashing off and eroding. 54

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ere in New Mexico, our soils tend to be desertified, lacking the organic matter and microbes that nurture plant life. Conventional agriculture and ranching contribute to this issue, and the hotter, drier conditions associated with climate change will only continue to make it worse. But just as human activity has helped to strip fertility from the soil, human activity can help to restore it—and in this, New Mexico is leading the way with innovative efforts ranging from the grassroots to the state level. One organization working to build soil across the state is Santa Fe’s Reunity Resources. Founded in 2011, this nonprofit started off by turning used fryer grease from local restaurants into biodiesel fuel. It quickly grew to embrace composting, fulfilling its mission to help to divert waste from local landfills. In 2012, Reunity made a proposal to the City of Santa Fe’s director of solid waste to pick up food scraps from local restaurants—a proposal that was “professionally and politely” declined. But the city worked with Reunity to develop a pilot program for this service, and when the pilot proved successful, the program continued to grow, eventually including the food scraps from Santa Fe Public Schools. In time, all that food waste gave rise to Reunity’s compost sales to the community, which local gardeners have enjoyed since 2015. In this way, Reunity has played a very real part not only in keeping local food waste out of landfills—where it creates methane, a potent greenhouse gas—but in enriching local soils. But then the pandemic hit—restaurants were all but shuttered, and kids weren’t eating lunch at school. Juliana Ciano, program director at Reunity Resources, notes, “We lost about 80 percent of our clients, and as a nonprofit, losing so much of one of our core revenue streams was scary. So we were propelled to do something we had already been talking about, which is the Doorstep program.” In 2020, Reunity launched their Doorstep Compost Collection Program, through which they provide residents in the greater Santa Fe area with a bucket for their food scraps and pick them up on a weekly basis. In the course of this pivot, Reunity essentially followed the food waste where it was accumulating, at home, and the program now serves around 450 households. In Albuquerque, Little Green Bucket offers a similar service, picking up customers’ household waste and carting it to Soilutions, an organization that turns food and green waste from residents and restaurants into compost, which is sold to the public. Ciano tells me that the team at Soilutions actually helped to mentor her and her husband when they were just starting out in establishing their own large-scale composting operation. “Compost is by necessity super localized. It’s heavy, it’s yucky, and it’s time sensitive. You cannot take food waste from Santa Fe to Dallas to process into compost. And in our calculations, given the emissions of larger trucks, 60 to 80 miles is the top radius you want to be working in. That means that in the compost community, there is no competition. Everyone’s here to help one another.”

That, she explains, is part of the reason Reunity partners with other New Mexico organizations, such as Santa Fe County, Quivira Coalition, and the New Mexico Recycling Coalition, to offer backyard composting workshops statewide. In conjunction with the latter organization, they also produced a guide to household composting, available on YouTube, entitled, “Backyard Composting in the High Desert.” The fifteen-minute guide covers the two most reliable means of producing compost in our hot, arid environment: straw bales or an enclosed black compost bin. Both systems take four to eight months to produce garden-ready compost. Applying compost to backyard gardens has a whole host of ecological benefits: it increases soil fertility, encourages the growth of soil microbes, and helps to build and preserve topsoil for generations to come (while keeping methane out of our landfills). But improving soil health on a larger scale means helping farmers and ranchers implement the practices associated with regenerative agriculture, which also addresses issues like erosion and water retention. That’s where the New Mexico Healthy Soil Program comes in. The New Mexico Healthy Soil Program was established in 2019, thanks to the advocacy efforts of the New Mexico Healthy Soil Working Group. This grassroots group convened a coalition of more than a hundred food- and agriculture-related organizations, as well as environmental groups and dozens of farms and ranches, to create a bill aimed at improving soil in the state. That bill passed with bipartisan support in the house and unanimous backing in the senate. The program supports farmers and ranchers in implementing one or more of the following principles, all of which are backed by peer-reviewed science on soil health: 1.

Keeping soil covered

Minimizing soil disturbance on cropland and minimizing external inputs

Maximizing biodiversity

Maintaining a living root

Integrating animals into land management, including grazing animals, birds, beneficial insects, and keystone species, such as earthworms

The practices associated with regenerative agriculture—including the use of cover crops, no-till farming, companion planting, and managed grazing—are nothing new; each of them has its roots in Indigenous and traditional agricultural practices from around the world. But here in the United States, they’re still considered somewhat radical, and that’s why this program is so important. Farmers and ranchers (“producers,” in industry speak) are conservative by nature, as far as their practices and systems go. They have to be, in an industry with razor-thin margins and any number of make-or-break variables (weather, for example). By giving producers financial support to adopt these practices, the New Mexico Healthy Soil Program gives them the bandwidth to try something new and see the benefits, both economic and ecological, firsthand. EDIBLENM.COM

Home and commercial waste being collected and composted at Reunity Resources.

Since 2019, this program, administered through the state’s Department of Agriculture, has awarded over $783,000 in grants to New Mexico farmers, ranchers, pueblos, and other eligible entities. For example, in Melrose, Kimberly and Toby Bostwick of Barnhouse Farms, who have been farming for twenty-five years, were alarmed as they watched “the soil blow away, crops wither and die in the field, combines run[ning] through the field knowing our yield wouldn’t cover our expenses, and heavy rainfall running out of our field.” Their grant enabled them to plant cover crops, begin the practice of no-till planting directly into those cover crops, and introduce rotational grazing, a practice in which cows are allowed to graze intensively—and stomp manure into the soil—in a given area for a limited amount of time and then moved on, which stimulates a strong regrowth response from grasses. 56

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In just one year, Kimberly notes in an article for the New Mexico Healthy Soil Working Group’s Soil Stories series, “We have already seen improvements to our farmland because it is covered, and it is not blowing as the surrounding fields are. On our rangeland last year, we saw significant gains in turf as well as impressive grass regrowth just by utilizing a rotational grazing system.” Another example of these grants in action comes from a “microfarm” in Belen, established in 2019 by Amelia Vogel and Jason Schilberg, two Washington, DC, transplants who decided to try their hand at farming. Rocket Punch Farm, sitting on just one acre, is modeled after the urban farms, community gardens, and school gardens that Vogel worked with as a federal employee back in DC. One of the key practices Vogel and Schilberg put to work on their farm was sheet mulching, a practice in which layers of organic material

are placed on top of the soil and allowed to decompose while killing off weeds—in this case, two layers of organic material consisting of brown unwaxed cardboard (removed of tape and staples) and arborist woodchips, which they then planted their crops into without tilling. Their grant allowed them to add a third layer of sheet mulch to their operation, in the form of premium compost from Soilutions, which they applied in late winter 2021. This not only helped to correct the lack of soil organic matter at the farm, Vogel notes, but also led to an abundant 2021 harvest. In addition to financial assistance on such projects, the program offers land managers access to soil-health testing, education, and training opportunities. Participants learn about soil health via on-site workshops led by their peers who’ve put these practices to work on their own land, while Soil & Water Conservation Districts and other local entities, including pueblos, tribes, and acequia and land grant communities, facilitate on-the-ground implementation. Only a few other states have healthy soil programs like ours— Oklahoma, Utah, California, Maryland, Nebraska, Washington, Vermont, and Massachusetts—making New Mexico a leader in the movement to preserve topsoil and improve soil health in the United States. So far, demand for New Mexico Healthy Soil Program grants has far exceeded the money available, and the Healthy Soil Working Group continues to act as an advocate at the state level for increased funding. In April 2021, their efforts bore fruit when New Mexico enacted HB 89, the Healthy Soil Tax Refund Contribution Option, which enables any resident who qualifies for a refund on their personal income tax to donate all or part of that refund to the Healthy Soil Program, starting in 2022. (Similar contribution options in other states have brought in anywhere from $20,000 to $100,000 per year.) The Healthy Soil Working Group also continues to advocate for healthy soil practices throughout the state via trainings for farmers and ranchers, assistance for those applying for grants through the healthy soil program, and community building and advocacy. As director Isabelle Jenniches puts it, “We’re building a network of soilhealth champions in the state,” noting that this network has grown quickly—from five to a hundred in just one year. A key partner in this endeavor has been Seeding Regenerative Agriculture, a Las Cruces–based organization focused on making regenerative agriculture “the new normal,” through peer-to-peer networking and knowledge sharing among producers. Local “seed groups” host events where community members come together with their neighbors who are enacting healthy soil principles. Jenniches describes these events as part field day, part barn raising—“a networking, meal-sharing setup that really gets things done. We energize each other, learn from each other, and get to know each other, out in the open.” She notes that while these events around the state slowed down during COVID, they are now picking up again. Another key player in the statewide effort to build soil fertility is Quivira Coalition, a Santa Fe–based nonprofit dedicated to “building soil, biodiversity, and resilience on western working landscapes,” which it does through a variety of programs and partnerships. One of

its most successful programs is its Carbon Ranch Initiative. Through this program, started in 2019, Quivira provides education and outreach to producers on how to implement and monitor the effectiveness of soil-health practices, addressing how these practices not only help them avoid liabilities like eroding soil and declining yields but achieve greater resilience in the face of climate change. Healthy soil retains water, acting as a hedge against drought—and hotter and drier conditions in general. It also acts as a sponge when rain comes in hard and heavy (another face of climate change), which helps to prevent topsoil from flashing off and eroding. In the course of an interview over Zoom, Eva Stricker, the director of the Carbon Ranch Initiative, notes, “What I really emphasize, every time I do a training, is that the predictions are not just hotter and drier, it’s that our weather is becoming more variable.” She says that this is a piece that often gets lost: healthy soil practices can aid producers in staying in business, and staying viable, in the face of a rapidly changing climate. Of course, healthy soil, and the agricultural practices that support it, is in fact a key solution to climate change, as detailed in Paul Hawken’s Drawdown, because living plants and their microbial aggregates actually pull carbon out of the air and sequester it in the soil. Hence the name of this program, Carbon Ranch. Stricker says that many of the producers who work with Quivira are interested in the potential for carbon markets—systems in which producers like them receive payment from various entities in exchange for employing healthy soil practices that lock down carbon—and that Quivira offers detailed guides to help producers assess the effect their healthy soil practices are having on the land (such as how much carbon they’re storing in the soil). Quivira’s Carbon Ranch Initiative also works with producers to write grants to implement healthy soil practices. There are many organizations that fund such projects, Stricker explains, but one of the largest and most important is the Natural Resources Conservation Service (NCRS). The program, administered by the United States Department of Agriculture, was established in the years following the Dust Bowl. It was a time when the importance of topsoil was hard to ignore, which led President Franklin D. Roosevelt, in his 1937 address to state governors, to state it plainly: “The nation that destroys its soil destroys itself.” It’s a lesson it seems we’ve all but forgotten, as modern agriculture has focused increasingly on “inputs” (chemical fertilizers and pesticides) and “outputs” (crop yields). But the key role the NCRS is playing in funding large-scale soil-health projects speaks to the truth of those words, and their implications for the present day. Rather than waiting for the next Dust Bowl, these organizations— and all the farmers, ranchers, and individuals implementing healthy soil practices—are taking action now to avoid it, and playing a very real part in creating a sustainable future for New Mexico. reunityresources.com, soilutions.net, littlegreenbucket.com, nmhealthysoil.org, quiviracoalition.org EDIBLENM.COM

BREAKING DOWN WHAT DOES FOOD WASTE LOOK LIKE? by Nancy Zastudil

Food Waste USA installation at Polk's Folly Farm. Food Waste Project installation artists include Billy Joe Miller, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, Zach Withers, Rosie Hutchinson, Henry Hutchinson, Merle Hutchinson, Aldo Stearnes, Max Richardson, Rachel Nelson, Graham Ansell Coy, and Thaïs Ferrandis Ansell Coy. Photo by Billy Joe Miller.

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

n her book An Everlasting Meal: Cooking with Economy and Grace, Chef Tamar Adler writes, “The amount of food you have left from a meal is always the perfect amount for something.” The lesson is simple: endings are beginnings, not to be wasted.

Interdisciplinary artist Billy Joe Miller believes in this cycle of regeneration. He embraces a site-responsive approach to create sculptures, installations, and public art that rouse our senses through engagement with the natural world. By incorporating organic materials and architectural elements, his artworks shape how we engage with a sense of place and feelings of belonging. Just a few miles from Miller’s house and art studio in Cedar Crest is Polk’s Folly Farm, where an arguably magical natural process of growth and decay—inextricable endings and beginnings—takes place every day. He has been spending time there as an artist-in-residence of sorts, using sculpture and photography to consider our roles in the food waste system and inviting others to do the same. Zach Withers and his brother Ethan, who own and operate the farm, repurpose millions of pounds of food waste annually from local food rescue organizations like Roadrunner Food Bank of New Mexico and Food is Free Albuquerque (FIFABQ). They use the mountains of expired produce and baked goods to supplement the diets of their heritage-breed hogs and for compost on the farm and beyond. At Polk’s Folly, the process of making compost and feeding animals is intertwined. Food waste is fed to the pigs on top of a layer of wood mulch inside the pens; what the pigs don’t eat, they stomp into the mulch. The process creates a deep bed of organic material that is harvested, blended, aerated, and put out into windrows to compost. “The compost is used to regenerate pastures on our farm and amend the soils in our small garden and orchard,” explains Withers. “It is also being used in various field trials throughout the state to test the effects of various rates of compost application on arid rangelands, which is part of the Carbon Ranching Initiative being spearheaded by the Quivira Coalition. We also supply compost to a few local farms that we source produce from for our farm stand.” In the United States, 31 percent of food loss occurs at the retail and consumer levels. In 2012, global food loss and waste generated approximately 8 percent of total anthropogenic greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, namely methane. Taking into account land use,

“B

production, processing, distribution, consumption, and waste, onethird of GHG comes from the food system as a whole. Those numbers seized Miller’s attention, initially after an Instagram post by Polk’s Folly to that effect. He recognized that while individuals might not be able to directly impact the production models that create this food waste, the issue of reducing the amount of food that ends up in landfills is one people can address by composting at home, in their backyards, and with their neighbors. Seeing this potential, he was compelled to use his skills as an artist, his interest in public engagement, and his experiences in community-driven projects to help people understand their agency within the food waste system. He began brainstorming with Zach Withers and Sarah WentzelFisher (executive director of the Quivira Coalition, who also lives on the farm), and the trio embarked on an ongoing collaborative investigation of food waste through art making. But what exactly is food waste? What does it look like? The United States Department of Agriculture defines food loss and waste as “the edible amount of food, postharvest, that is available for human consumption but is not consumed for any reason.” Miller sees the repurposed food waste at Polk’s Folly as an opulent and profound opportunity to make challenges and solutions visible, even flavorful, through art and direct engagement. “Food waste is a shining example of how we feel totally disempowered in our food systems,” says Wentzel-Fisher. “So how can we feel a sense of ownership and participation and agency in our food systems? Maybe it’s having a garden, maybe it’s going to the farmers market, maybe it’s thinking about food waste and producing compost. Maybe it’s also getting involved in the policy surrounding food. Maybe it’s finding other ways to support farmers. And I think that’s what we need in this moment—for people to be creative and lean in with their neighbors.” Miller has taken small groups of artists and art enthusiasts to the farm and says, “Each time, we’re moved by the mountain of food and a little shocked with how much is thrown out. One of my friends called it a strange kind of cornucopia. So much of the food is still good that we’ve eaten from the pile.” During the visits to Polk’s Folly, Miller and his collaborators create spontaneous artworks on the land and in the soil, using the food waste as their artistic materials. They pull pieces from the massive

But what exactly is food waste? What does it look like? The United States Department of Agriculture defines food loss and waste as “the edible amount of food, postharvest, that is available for human consumption but is not consumed for any reason.”

EDIBLENM.COM

Top left, clockwise: Food Waste Wreath; Rachel Nelson; Zach Withers, Aldo Stearnes, and Sarah Wentzel-Fisher. Photos by Billy Joe Miller. Bottom left: Billy Joe Miller working on Food Waste Tapestry installation, photo by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher.

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

piles of expired food to compose sculptural quilt-like color gradients, full of varying sizes and textures. He typically makes photographs of these arrangements, which he plans to share publicly as a way to bring other people into the conversation about how each of us can directly address food waste. “I’m trying to draw awareness to our relationship with food waste and its social and environmental impacts, including consumption and wasted resources,” he says. “I can see many meaningful effects of following our food waste back to the ground. When we compost, we have to take food waste outside and interact with and change the soil, or maybe we take it to a local garden and connect with our neighbors. Either way, we become aware of our waste and get involved with the cycle.” “It’s fun to hear Billy Joe articulate the entire origin of the project. Hearing about those experiences and his different perspective, after being up to my eyeballs in food waste for six years, is really refreshing,” says Withers. Artists have long been interested in food, using it as both medium and subject matter, often in service of a greater good. California is ripe, so to speak, with these kinds of projects. For example, Amy Franceschini, based in the Bay Area, founded Futurefarmers, an international group of artists, anthropologists, farmers, and architects who work together to propose alternatives to the social, political, and environmental organization of space. David Allen Burns, Austin Young, and Matias Viegener founded the Los Angeles–based collective Fallen Fruit, creating maps of the fruit trees growing on or over public property. Ted Purves and Susanne Cockrell created Temescal Amity Works in the Temescal neighborhood of Oakland, where they gleaned fruit from lemon trees, interested in how a specific community builds relationships through personal and casual economies. Closer to home, the Land Arts of the American West program at the University of New Mexico examines foodsheds and watersheds during semester-long field excursions. And SITE Santa Fe hosts SPREAD, contextualizing a meal as a micro-funding opportunity through which artists can receive project support. Many of Miller’s other artworks address moments, even thresholds, of transition, informed by his many years working as a hospice nursing assistant. So perhaps most poetically aligned with Miller’s ongoing project at Polk’s Folly is the work of artist Félix González-Torres, who in the early nineties created a series of installations of candy—piles of individually wrapped pieces free for the taking and perpetually replaceable. The shrinking and swelling mounds speak to loss, grief, and the passing of time while simultaneously showing the impact of personal actions within a larger system. This muse is nothing new. In the seventeenth century, early Flemish still-life paintings set the stage for much of how food is addressed in Western art, depicting objects and food as allegories of life, death, and nature, as well as class hierarchies and material wealth. How we view and treat food today remains an indicator of local and national values. According to ReFED, 35 percent of all food in the United States went unsold or uneaten in 2019. And yet at

the same time, Feeding America reports that each year 15.8 percent (324,000 people) in New Mexico are at risk of hunger—that’s one in seven people, and one in five children. To help address this, Roadrunner Food Bank, the largest nonprofit in the state dedicated to solving food insecurity, provides food to hundreds of affiliated member partners around New Mexico, including food pantries, soup kitchens, shelters, and regional food banks. From their two Albuquerque distribution points alone (EXPO New Mexico and AMC CLASSIC theater in the South Valley), Roadrunner has been directly serving anywhere from five hundred to nine hundred households every week during the pandemic. “There’s nuance to managing and organizing and running a food rescue program,” says Joseph Phy, Roadrunner’s chief operating officer. “It’s all about connecting the dots and having enough education for folks no matter where they’re at, whether they’re in agribusiness or wholesaling or food rescue. It’s having that education about what hunger looks like, not only in our state, but in our country, and having continued conversations and continued initiatives and improvement programs within those companies.” In 2021, Roadrunner distributed approximately 58.9 million pounds of food, of which an estimated 18.6 million pounds was food rescue. Phy is quick to point out that volunteers are vital to the process of food rescue and waste diversion. Whether sorting, boxing, or distributing, Roadrunner’s volunteer force equates to thirty-five additional full-time staff. Still, the need for more volunteers remains urgent as the pandemic surges on. Polk’s Folly instituted food-rescue efforts about two years into running operations at their pig farm, and nine months into a bad drought, when they realized that their pasture-based production model was not working very well. They decided to try repurposing food waste to feed their animals—a temporary solution that has since become their standard practice. “I remember when Erin Garrison of Food is Free Albuquerque brought over a little hatchback full of boxes of food—free food to feed the pigs—and I was like, ‘Holy crap,’” says Withers. “Fastforward four years and we have gone through all sorts of iterations of food rescue and composting.” He also recalls picking up approximately 14,000 pounds of organic waste one day from Roadrunner Food Bank and returning the next for another 8,000. “And that’s just a drop in the bucket,” he says. (In 2020 alone, they picked up 1.3 million pounds of expired produce from Roadrunner.) Garrison and her business partner, Trista Teeter, started FIFABQ in 2014, when they realized they were buying food from the grocery store when it was abundantly growing, and often going to waste, in their neighborhood. They were seeing firsthand the painful irony of food production, waste, and hunger and were compelled to do something about it. “We put up a Craigslist ad looking for people who had fruit trees that they weren’t harvesting. We received about ten responses, and being the ambitious people that we are, we scheduled all of them,” says Garrison. “We went to the first tree and harvested about two hundred pounds. I’m not great at math, but that was going to be way more than what we needed for our families.” EDIBLENM.COM

Food Waste Cornucopia. Photo by Billy Joe Miller.

Since then, FIFABQ has evolved into a local produce-gleaning organization that, as of December 2021, has harvested 61,649 pounds of food from private yards and farms, distributing it to “those forgotten by our current food system,” as they state on their website. In the process, Garrison explains, FIFABQ practices mindful distribution, which honors the food and the people involved and avoids creating additional waste. “Fresh food is a human right,” she says. “Everybody, everybody, should have access to fresh food.” Compost, integral to regenerative farming, is another means of putting food waste to beneficial use. ReFED reports that, out of all the food-recycling methods, centralized composting diverts the most waste, adding over two million tons of compost annually to fuel growth in the sustainable farming and environmental remediation markets. Soilutions, located in Albuquerque, is New Mexico’s largest private compost producer. In partnership with more than fifty local commercial businesses, they’ve diverted almost forty-three million pounds of food waste from the landfill and back into replenishing the state’s soil. Partners include The Grove Cafe & Market, where owners Jason and Lauren Greene incorporated composting at the restaurant’s inception. Other participating locals include Farm & Table, La Cumbre, and Humble Coffee, among others. “We need a lot more education, but I think people are coming around to the idea of composting a lot quicker here in New Mexico,” says Ben Dickerson, Soilutions business development manager. He is quick to mention that Indigenous communities are leading the way back to healthy soils. “We are seeing the effects of climate change; we’re in the midst of a twenty-two-year drought, and we just don’t know that it’s going to end. But over the last 62

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

five years, the amount of organic and regenerative farmers—small farms—that we’ve seen pop up has increased, maybe five to ten new regenerative farmers every year. That gives me hope. But we still have a long way to go.” Also committed to the powers of composting is Brad Weikel, owner and founder of Little Green Bucket, Albuquerque’s only curbside residential food-scrap-collection business. Before launching the endeavor, he says, “When I started looking at the math of food waste, it was alarming. And Little Green Bucket seemed like a great way to start to chip away at that locally. . . . One of the real values of our service is that it makes it super easy for people to compost.” As seen at Polk’s Folly, launching a food-waste, -rescue, or -repurposing program can take an imaginative form while addressing critical challenges. Withers says, “Food waste going to the landfill is a major greenhouse gas emissions issue, but it could be part of the climate crisis solution,” explaining further that compost can reduce methane emissions and build carbon in soil, helping to offset the negative effects of the food system. The practical and creative food-based work taking place between Miller and Polk’s Folly echoes Chef Adler’s sentiment—the connection between endings and beginnings is one of purpose. For now, Miller will continue his durational artistic process—sculpting, photographing, composing the decomposing material—at the speed of the decay itself. And as he aims to educate and inspire people through the medium of food waste and the act of composting, considering both as change agents within a larger system, he and his collaborators join a host of others in questioning where our food comes from and determining where it goes next.

New this spring:

Donate your state tax refund to New Mexico’s Healthy Soil Program

to support farmers and ranchers in soil health stewardship! The beneﬁts of doing this are immense. Go to

NMhealthysoil.org to learn how and why to participate

If you are due a refund on your New Mexico Personal Income Tax, you have the opportunity to donate all or part to the Healthy Soil Program using the PIT-D, Schedule for New Mexico Voluntary Contributions, when you file your taxes.

Payne’s Nurseries and Greenhouses have been growing hardy heirloom vegetables & herbs in Santa Fe for more than 70 years! We know the local soil and climate. Choose from our homegrown starter plants or from our large selection of 2022 seeds available now. Stop by Today and Start Growing Your Own Fresh and Healthy Produce!

Payne’s South 715 St. Michael’s 988-9626

Payne’s North 304 Camino Alire 988-8011

Payne’s Organic Soil Yard 6037 Agua Fria 424-0336

Happy Gardening! paynes.com

At Flyby Provisions, we embrace our relationships with talented artisans, sustainable producers, and values-driven small businesses. We make it easy for you to deliver thoughtful, feel-good gifts to the people you love! CARE PACKAGES. GIFTS. WORKPLACE FOOD & BEVERAGES.

FlybyProvisions.com

ediblenew mexico Pantry Box Brought to you by Flyby Provisions

EDIBLE PANTRY BOX: FLAVORS OF NEW MEXICO From the pages of your favorite local food magazine, straight to your kitchen! Subscribe to the Edible Pantry Box and receive a seasonally-themed release alongside each issue of Edible New Mexico. Each shipment contains a selection of locally made and carefully curated artisanal products, designed to give you a taste of the bounty and diversity of New Mexico food, while supporting the small businesses we all love. You'll also receive exclusive content and recipes from some of the chefs and producers featured in the pages of Edible New Mexico. Select a full year subscription (6 boxes) or half-year subscription (3 boxes). Packages are thoughtfully curated by Flyby Provisions and supply is limited. Begins shipping in May 2022.

ediblenm.com/pantrybox EDIBLENM.COM

LOCAL SOURCE GUIDE FOOD ARTISANS / RETAILERS

LODGING

OTHER SERVICES

Bringing fine fermented foods to Santa Fe. We make our products by handcrafting small batches of flavorful goodness, using only the finest ingredients.1413-B W Alameda, Santa Fe, 505-699-9812, barriobrinery.com

Hotels in Albuquerque, Santa Fe, Taos, and Las Cruces. hhandr.com

Secure, stable, scalable websites. aquarianwebdesign.com

Barrio Brinery

Blue Fly Farms

Small-batch sparkling water infused with real herbs grown on the farm, and more. blueflyfarms.com

Bountiful Cow Cheese Company Purveyors of fine cheese, meats, and provisions from around the world. 505-473-7911, B-cow.com

Del Valle Pecans

Fresh and sweet organic pecans. From our southern New Mexico orchards to your kitchen. Order online. 575-524-1867, delvallepecans.com

Eldora Chocolate

Eldora crafts chocolate using natural, organic, and fair-trade ingredients. 1909 Bellamah NW and 8114 Edith NE, Albuquerque, 505-433-4076, eldorachocolate.com

Heidi's Raspberry Farm

Sumptuous, organic raspberry jams available throughout New Mexico and online! 600 Andrews Ln, Corrales, 505-898-1784, heidisraspberryfarm.com

High Grade Organic CBD

Our hemp is grown from seed under the sun on our USDA Certified Organic farm in the Rio Grande River Valley of northern New Mexico. highgradeorganiccbd.com

KURE

We pride ourselves on providing a unique, friendly, and welcoming environment. 220 North Guadalupe, Santa Fe, 505-930-5339, kureforlife.com

New Mexico Harvest

A community of people that actively invests in our food system. Eat Local. Eat Seasonal. Eat Outside the Box Stores. Delivering across New Mexico. newmexicoharvest.com

Ranch de Mil Piedras Beef

Local packaged beef, chicken, and pork at an affordable price. 237 State Hwy 91, Santa Rosa, 575-799-0770

Skarsgard Farms

Delivering fresh, local, and organically grown produce and natural groceries to doorsteps across New Mexico. 505-681-4060, skarsgardfarms.com

Susan's Fine Wine & Spirits

Your local liquor store in Santa Fe. 632 Auga Fria, sfwineandspirits.com

Talin Market

88 Louisiana SE, Albuquerque, 505-268-0206, talinmarket.com

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

Heritage Hotels and Resorts Hotel Andaluz

Andaluz evokes the passion and pride of the region of Spain that has inspired the hotel’s decor and architectural style. 125 Second Street NW, Albuquerque, 505-388-0088, hotelandaluz.com

La Fonda on the Plaza

Celebrating 100 years. The spirit of hospitality since 1922. 100 E San Francisco, 505-995-2334, lafondasantafe.com

Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

4803 Rio Grande NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com

Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi

Sophisticated modern aesthetic celebrating the southwestern spirit. 113 Washington, Santa Fe, 505-988-3030

Sarabande B & B

Comfort, elegance, and simplicity. 5637 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-348-5593, sarabandebnb.com

The Parador

Our 200-year-old farmhouse, Santa Fe's oldest inn, is located in historic downtown Santa Fe. 220 W Manhattan, Santa Fe, 505988-1177, elparadero.com

NURSERIES & SERVICES

Aquarian Web Studio AtHomeBeFIT

Transformative fitness programs for women in the Albuquerque / Santa Fe area and livestreaming nationwide. athomebefit.com

Rio Grande Credit Union

Multiple locations in Albuquerque. riograndecu.org

RETAILERS

Daisy's Holistic Health

We offer a wide range of herbs, vitamins, supplements, and high pH H2O. 4056 Cerrillos, Unit D-1, Santa Fe, 505-780-8687, daisysholistichealth.com

Flyby Provisions

Enjoy shopping for boutique local New Mexico gifts—thoughtfully selected and packaged with care. flybyprovisions.com

Found on 4th

The eclectic lifestyle store. Vintage home decor and unique gifts. 8909 Fourth Street NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, 505-508-2207, foundon4th.com

Gallery Ethnica

Live globally! 933 Baca, Santa Fe, 505-557-6654, galleryethnica.com

Kitchenality

Irresistible and gently used gourmet cooking and entertaining ware. 1222 Siler, Santa Fe, 505-471-7780, kitchenangels.org

deerBrooke

Living Threads

Osuna Nursery

Next Best Thing to Being There

Irrigation and backflow prevention specialists. Repairs, installations, and consulting. 505-319-5730, nmlawnsprinklerexperts.com

100% natural ingredients from around the world. 1610 Lena, Ste D, Santa Fe, 505-6637784, livingthreads.org

A family-owned and -operated nursery, gardening center, and landscaping company. 501 Osuna NE, Albuquerque, 505-345-6644, osunanursery.com

An eclectic shop for handmade products. 1315 Mountain NW, Albuquerque, 505-433-3204, beingthereabq.com

Payne’s Nursery

Santa Fe locations: Payne's North, 304 Camino Alire, 505-988-8011; Payne's South, 715 St Michael's, 505-988-9626; PAYNE'S ORGANIC Soil Yard, 6037 Agua Fria, 505424-0336; Paynes.com

ORGANIZATIONS & EDUCATION Chocolate and Coffee Fest

Expo NM State Fairgrounds, April 2–3. Chocolateandcoffeefest.com

Museum of New Mexico Foundation

Philanthropic support for our state's cultural heritage. museumfoundation.org

Slow Food Santa Fe

Slow Food is about enjoying food and the community it creates. Intrigued? Learn more at slowfoodsantafe.org.

Sarabande Home

We have a passion for finding the perfect gift. 4022 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-344-1253, sarabandehome.com

Sharrock Furniture Designs

Handmade one-of-a-kind pieces. 933 Baca, Santa Fe, 908-500-6392

The Perfect Gift Shoppe

The perfect place to find something for everyone. 901 Rio Grande NW, Ste D-126, Albuquerque, theperfectgiftshoppe.com

Tin-Nee-Ann Trading Co.

Family operated and family friendly since 1973. 923 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-988-1630, tin-nee-ann-trading-co.myshopify.com

MARKET PLACE LOCAL FINDS

Your support for the advertisers listed here allows us to offer this magazine free of charge to readers.

LAWN SPRINKLER EXPERTS Repairs/Installations Landscape Remodeling Fruit Tree Pruning and Removal

Secure, Stable, Scalable Websites.

505-319-5730

WOMAN-OWNED | WOMEN-LED

aquarianwebdesign.com

nmlawnsprinklerexperts.com Daisy’s takes a unique approach to Holistic Health. We offer a wide range of Bulk Herbs, Vitamins, Supplements, and High pH H2O.

TIN-NEE-ANN Trading Co. Family Operated - Family Friendly Since 1973

Welcome to Santa Fe

Daisy’s Holistic Health is locally owned and dedicated to great customer service.

SANTA FE Linking the pleasure of good food with local community.

4056 Cerrillos Road, Unit D-1, Santa Fe daisysholistichealth.com ∙ 505-780-8687

923 Cerrillos Road at St. Francis Drive 505-988-1630 ∙ tinneeann2@gmail.com

SLOWFOODSANTAFE.ORG EDIBLENM.COM

EAT & DRINK LOCAL GUID E

COCKTAILS at Radish & Rye in Santa Fe.

ALBUQUERQUE RESTAURANTS Campo at Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

Rio Grande Valley cuisine rooted in seasonal organic ingredients from our own farm. 4803 Rio Grande NW, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com

Cutbow Coffee

One of the nation's most accomplished artisan coffee roasters, Paul Gallegos. 1208 Rio Grande NW, 505-355-5563, cutbowcoffee.com

Farm & Table

Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm. 8917 Fourth Street NW, 505-503-7124, farmandtablenm.com

MAS Tapas y Vino

Inspired by the bold flavors, rich history, and the exuberance of Spanish cooking. 125 Second Street NW, 505-388-0088, hotelandaluz.com/mas-tapas-y-vino

Mata G Vegetarian Kitchen

Unmistakably comforting, uncompromisingly fresh, and undeniably delicious. 116 Amherst SE, 505-266-6374, mata-g.com

Salt and Board

Salt and Board, a charcuterie-based cork and taproom in the heart of the Brick Light District. 115 Harvard SE, 505-219-2001, saltandboard.com

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

Savoy Bar & Grill

SANTA FE RESTAURANTS

Sawmill Market

Contemporary American cuisine inspired by locally sourced seasonal ingredients. 113 Washington, 505-988-3030, innoftheanasazi.com

California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Farm-to-table dining and a casual patio. 10601 Montgomery NE, 505-294-9463, savoyabq.com Eclectic collection of bars and eateries, plus an expansive courtyard. 1909 Bellamah NW, sawmillmarket.com

Seasons Rotisserie & Grill

Oak-fired grill, local and seasonal ingredients, and the best patio dining in Old Town. 2031 Mountain NW, 505-766-5100, seasonsabq.com

The Grove Cafe & Market

The Grove features a bustling café experience serving breakfast, brunch, and lunch. 600 Central SE, 505-248-9800, thegrovecafemarket.com

The Shop Breakfast & Lunch

Serving breakfast and lunch Wednesday through Sunday. 2933 Monte Vista NE, 505-433-2795, theshopabq.com

Trifecta Coffee Company

We roast coffee and brew in unique ways. 413 Montaño NE, 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeeco.com

Vara Winery & Distillery

Spanish and American wines celebrating the origins of the American wine experience. 315 Alameda NE, 505-898-6280, varawines.com

Anasazi Restaurant & Bar

Arroyo Vino

We serve progressive American fare inspired by our on-premise garden and local purveyors. 218 Camino La Tierra, 505-983-2100, arroyovino.com

Cafecito

Cafecito is a family-owned business blending cultures to bring you a delicious menu in a beautiful gathering space. 922 Shoofly, 505-310-0089, cafecitosantafe.com

Dolina

We serve modern American brunch with Eastern European influences. Open 7 days a week. 402 N Guadalupe, 505-982-9394, dolinasantafe.com

Iconik Coffee Roasters

Amazing food, unique coffees roasted on-site, and superfast high-speed internet. 314 S Guadalupe and 1600 Lena, 505-428-0996, iconikcoffee.com

Loyal Hound

Locally sourced modern comfort food paired with craft beer, cider, and wine. 730 St Michaels, 505-471-0440, loyalhoundpub.com

Rancho de Mil Piedras Beef

Allyn & Erin Fuchs 575-799-0770

1237 St. Hwy 91 Santa Rosa, NM

FIND US ON FACEBOOK Local packaged beef, chicken, and pork at an affordable price!

South Indian cuisine

Genuine Food & Drink Enchanting, Dusty... Wild West Style 28 MAIN STREET LOS CERRILLOS 505.438.1821 Thursday - Sunday blackbirdsaloon.com

COFFEE & EMPANADAS (505) 310-0089 | 922 Shoofly St. SF, NM cafecitosantafe.com | @cafecito.santafe

Creative Casual Cuisine

Chef and owner Kevin Bladergroen brings together fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Award-winning wine list.

HighGradeOrganicCBD.com

Wholesale Specialty Cheese/Meats/Provisions 300+ Cheeses from around the World Est. 1984

TRIFECTA COFFEE COMPANY

Barrio Brinery

221 Highway 165, Placitas 505-771-0695, www.bladesbistro.com

i TA ex FE z New M

Santa Fe's source for ﬁne fermented foods. Our lacto-fermented pickles, sauerkraut, and escabeche are hand-crafted in small batches. 1413-B West Alameda, Santa Fe www.barriobrinery.com ∙ 505-699-9812

www.b-cow.com · 505-473-7911

413 Montano NE, Albuquerque 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeeco.com We roast coffee, and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods, sweet, and savory are made in house.

EAT & DRINK LOCAL GUID E Ohori’s Coffee Roasters

Wild Leaven Bakery

Pajarito Brewpub & Grill

Paper Dosa

GREATER NEW MEXICO RESTAURANTS

Pig + Fig

The original source for locally roasted coffee beans, gifts, and gathering. 505 Cerrillos and 1098 St Francis, 505-982-9692, ohoriscoffee.com Bringing fresh, authentic homestyle South Indian dishes to your table. 551 W Cordova, 505-930-5521, paper-dosa.com

Pranzo Italian Grill

Upscale Italian cuisine. 321 Johnson, 505-984-2645, pranzoitaliangrill.com Farm-inspired cuisine: simple yet innovative food and drinks sourced locally whenever possible. 505 Cerrillos, 505-930-5325, radishandrye.com

Rustica

Sophisticated yet casual—Rustica serves fresh, homemade Italian food. 2547 Camino Entrada, 505-780-5279, rusticasantafe.com

TerraCotta

Seasonally changing, globally inspired cuisine and an extensive, value-priced wine list. 304 Johnson, 505-989-1166, terracottawinebistro.com

The Compound Restaurant

Chef Mark Kiffin preserves a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution. 653 Canyon Road, 505-982-4353, compoundrestaurant.com

Genuine food and drink, Wild West style. 28 Main St, Los Cerrillos, 505-438-1821, blackbirdsaloon.com Chef and owner Kevin Bladergroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. 221 Hwy 165, Placitas, 505-771-0695, bladesbistro.com

Charlie's Bakery and Cafe

Charlie’s offers New Mexican cuisine, breakfast, and classic pastries. 715 Douglas Ave, Las Vegas, 505-426-1921, charliesbakeryandcafe.com

Little Toad Creek Brewery & Distillery Taste Southwest New Mexico. 200 N Bullard St, Silver City, 575-956-6144, and 119 N Main St, Las Cruces, 575-556-9934, littletoadcreek.com

Michael’s Kitchen Restaurant and Bakery

Regionally inspired eats with a tongue-incheek menu in a casual space 304-C N Pueblo, Taos, 575-758-4178, michaelskitchen.com

XICO • ME

•

edible N

Black Bird Saloon

Blades' Bistro

Radish & Rye

Artisan sourdough bread and baked goods using organic, local grains and ingredients. 130 N Guadalupe, wildleavenbakery.com

L H ER

Here’s your opportunity to recognize the hard work your favorite food and farming organizations and businesses have put into championing farm-fresh, locally produced food in New Mexico.

LOCAL HERO AWARDS Nominations open March 1–31, 2022. Polls open April 7–May 7, 2002. ediblenm.com/local-hero-awards

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

Open for lunch Tuesday–Sunday. Open for dinner every day. 30 craft beers on tap. 614 Trinity Dr, Los Alamos, 505-662-8877, pajaritobrewpubandgrill.com Whether you're strictly vegan or strictly meat and potatoes, our goal is to create comfort food for everyone using high-quality, ethically sourced, seasonal ingredients. 11 Sherwood Blvd, White Rock, 505-672-2742, pigandfigcafe.com

Revel

Farm-to-table, elevated comfort food, in a fast-casual environment. 304 N Bullard St, Silver City, 575-388-4920, eatdrinkrevel.com

The Skillet

American, Southwest, vegetarian friendly. 619 Twelfth Street, Las Vegas, 505-563-0477, giant-skillet.com

Wild Leaven Bakery

Specializing in long-fermentation artisan sourdough bread and baked goods using organic, local grains and ingredients. 216 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos, wildleavenbakery.com

Come Travel in Our Circles!

Next stop: Morocco, October 2022 | Explore the art, culture, cuisine and

architecture of Rabat, Fes and Marrakech. Enjoy luxury accommodations, private guided tours of markets, museums, historic sites and much more. The Circles is the premier membership program for the Museum of New Mexico Foundation and offers members a wonderful mix of friendship and philanthropy. Join today and enjoy year-round benefits and unique opportunities, including exclusive access to our International Travel Program. You’ll journey with us across the globe and share incredible experiences with fellow members.

To learn more, contact Cara O’Brien, Director of The Circles, at 505.216.0848, email cara@museumfoundation.org or visit museumfoundation.org/2022-circles-events.

EDIBLENM.COM

edible Communities |

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2022

S IG N AT U RE

S E C T ION

The trademarks and certification marks displayed are the property of their respective owners and are displayed herein for demonstration and informational purposes. Edible Communities and these entities are not affiliated.

IN LABELS WE TRUST

How food certification labels, seals and standards can help eaters make better choices

STO RY

E L E N A

S E E L E Y,

FO O D

TA N K

CO N T E N T

D I R E C TO R

Danielle Nierenberg, Food Tank president, contributed to this article.

Even before the pandemic, choosing what to eat was difficult.

PROT E CT ING WO RK E RS

What’s healthy? What’s not? Do workers get a fair wage? What’s

In 2020, the World Economic Forum/Ipsos found that 86

better for the planet? For eaters looking to purchase products that

percent of people want a significant change towards a more equi-

are fairly traded or BIPOC owned, it can feel exhausting to find

table and sustainable world post-pandemic.

delicious foods from producers they believe in.

Standards from the food sector are working to eliminate

Certification labels and standards can be useful and neces-

forced and child labor, improve workers’ conditions, promote

sary ways to help consumers, but they’re often confusing. “Un-

gender equity and ensure better pay. Many fair-trade companies

fortunately, the burden is always on the consumer in terms of

are helping growers shift to environmentally sustainable practices.

evaluating the veracity of the label, doing the research to see

“While not a silver bullet, the Rainforest Alliance certification

whether the information on these labels is properly supported

is designed to provide methods and a shared standard for creat-

and accurate,” Brian Ronholm, director of food policy at Con-

ing a more transparent, data-driven, risk-based supply chain…to

sumer Reports, says.

make responsible business the new normal,” says Alex Morgan

Focusing on one issue helps, says Jerusha Klemperer of FoodPrint, an organization that educates consumers about food production practices. Decide which issue you’re most passionate

from the Rainforest Alliance. For foods from the United States, it’s more difficult to find companies upholding fair working conditions.

about and look for a label that upholds those standards. Labels

“Farm employees are still not equally protected under the Fair

can help increase transparency and provide insight into how food

Labor Standards Act and do not have a federally protected right

was produced. They can help eaters vote with their wallets for

to a weekly day of rest, overtime pay, sick time, collective bar-

food choices that support the environment, climate solutions,

gaining rights or even the right to a federal minimum wage on

animal welfare, workers’ rights, and healthy and sustainable diets.

small farms,” says Leah Penniman of Soul Fire Farm, an Afro-

But even conscientious eaters can get overwhelmed by the num-

Indigenous centered community farm in New York.

ber of choices they face.

Rosalinda Guillen, founder of Community to Community,

Choosing certified labels is a way to avoid empty claims, Klem-

says the Food Justice Certified label by the Agricultural Justice

perer says. But not all certification processes are created equal.

Project (AJP) is the most comprehensive label for protecting

Klemperer advises consumers to “do the research before you get

workers. “We call it the gold standard,” says Guillen, who has

to the store.”

provided input on AJP’s certification since 2000. Her BIPOC-

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led organization fights for better farm working conditions. She trusts the

mals suffer unnecessarily,” says Ben Goldsmith of Farm Forward, a non-

label because farm workers were deeply involved in setting the standards

profit striving to improve farm animal welfare. It can be easy for us to

from the beginning.

imagine ideal scenarios—healthy animals that are free to roam in open

Soul Fire is one of just six farms using Food Justice Certified. And it's advocating for the Fairness for Farm Workers Act. “The exploitation of farm labor is so deeply entrenched in the DNA of this nation that it can feel daunting to confront it, and yet we must,” says Penniman.

pastures—but unfortunately, Goldsmith explains, few animals are raised this way. According to the nongovernmental organization, Food and Water Watch, 1.6 billion farm animals live on 25,000 factory farms, or concentrated animal feeding operations, in the U.S. These animals face over-

IS AL L N AT URA L ME ANI N GL E SS?

crowded and stressful conditions and are regularly subject to physical

One of the most familiar labels is all natural. It sounds good—even healthy—but it’s an empty marketing tool.

alterations like tail docking and beak clipping. To avoid meats from animals subject to inhumane practices, look for

Klemperer says, “Ignore it.” Look for labels like USDA Certified

the Certified Animal Welfare Approved (AWA) label. Farmers and ranch-

Organic, which is two decades old. According to the Economic Re-

ers qualifying for certification cannot use cages, must provide access to

search Service of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, organic foods can

pastures and must ensure animals are treated humanely when they are

be found in almost three out of every four conventional supermarkets.

bred, transported and slaughtered. Producers may also add a Certified

To meet USDA standards, foods must be grown in soils that have

Grass-fed label to this certification, meaning animals were fed a 100 per-

not been treated with artificial fertilizers and pesticides for at least three

cent grass and forage diet. Goldsmith says he appreciates the AWA label

years. And organic farmers cannot plant genetically modified organisms

because it helps to “support and encourage small producers.”

(GMOs).

Another label is Certified Humane from Humane Farm Animal Care.

Newer labels, like the Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) label,

Minimum space allowances and environmental enrichment must be pro-

encourage farmers to further improve animal welfare, fairness for farm

vided for animals raised under Certified Humane standards. That encom-

workers and soil health. The label’s three-tiered system allows producers

passes the treatment of breeding animals, animals during transport and

to earn bronze, silver or gold certification to incentivize action.

animals at slaughter.

This label is also designed to be adaptable. “As science and culture

These labels are better for animals—and farmers can find them more

morph and change, we can incorporate that into a flexible or dynamic stan-

rewarding. “You get to see animals exhibit natural behaviors,” says Ron

dard that can adjust at that level,” explains Jeff Moyer, CEO of the Rodale

Mardesen, a livestock farmer for Niman Ranch, a beef, pork and lamb

Institute, a nonprofit group dedicated to growing the organic movement.

company with Certified Humane products. For products like eggs, terms like humane raised, free range and hor-

NON- G M O L A BEL S DE MYST I F I E D

mone free sound good, but lack a clear definition. The U.S. prohibits the

Many growers avoid GMOs without using USDA Certified Organic practices. GMO products are derived from plants and animals, the genetic makeup of which has been altered, often to create resistance to pesticides, herbicides and pests.

use of hormones in all poultry, veal, eggs, bison and pork production, so claims of hormone free don’t mean much. AWA, Certified Humane and USDA Certified Organic labeling standards prohibit the use of antibiotics and synthetic hormones in animal

Consumers can look for the Non-GMO Project Verified label, which indicates that produce or products containing fruits and vegetables are not

production. Consumers looking to buy meat products raised without these inputs should buy certified labels.

produced with GMOs. For meat and dairy products, this label means that S O ME T H ING FIS H Y

animals were fed a non-GMO diet. In 2022, products containing GMOs must use a new Bio-Engineered

The seafood sector is rife with labor exploitation, overfishing, eco-

label from the USDA. But some non-GMO advocates argue this label

system damage, fraud and intentional mislabeling. Mark Kaplan, of the

doesn’t go far enough. Many products derived from new modification

company Envisible, calls the challenges in the industry “appalling.”

techniques, including those having undergone CRISPR gene editing and crops meant for animal feed, will be exempt from the label.

Envisible works to make supply chains more transparent and equitable. Using blockchain, the company can trace a product from a fishing vessel all the way to the supermarket. Data entered at every point along

H UMA N E L A BEL I N G

the supply chain cannot be changed, helping eliminate fraud.

“I think everybody cares about animals and nobody wants to see ani-

Kaplan recommends consumers look for the Global Seafood continued

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Alliance’s Best Aquaculture Practices label, a third-party certification that

Numi prefers this approach. She believes that allowing companies to la-

addresses environmental health, social wellbeing, food safety and animal

bel individual products as carbon neutral “can give a green halo to that

welfare along the aquaculture supply chain.

company without necessarily committing to or investing in enterprise

The Fair-Trade Certified seal, a label given to various species of fish

level change.”

that meet certification requirements, is also helpful. Certification focuses

Numi plans to print on each tea box the precise estimate of green-

on supporting economies, improving working conditions and protecting

house gas emissions associated with it—something Oatly and Quorn are

ecosystems.

currently also doing with their packaging.

The Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch is a tool to help guide more sustainable choices on a case-by-case basis. Its website allows users

U NWRAPPING LAB E LS

to search by species to understand the best options and alternatives, and

Emily Moose, executive director of the nonprofit A Greener World,

which species to avoid.

argues that it’s important for consumers to continually ask for sustainable

CARBO N L A BE L I NG

whelming, it might not matter.’ But that’s really not true,” says Moose.

products. “It can be easy to just say, ‘Oh, there’s too much, it’s too overAccording to Nature Food, more than one-third of greenhouse gas emissions can be traced to the food system. Many eaters are seeing this

“That only benefits an opaque food system and practices that will never improve.”

connection between global agriculture and the climate crisis, and they

If you care about workers, speak with store managers about carrying

want to purchase more climate-friendly food. Some businesses are seeing

products with AJP’s label. For environmental concerns, email store buy-

labels as part of the solution.

ers to let them know you’re happy they purchase organic or local products

Numi Organic Tea has Climate Neutral Certification. It helps com-

but wish they had more.

panies measure, offset and reduce their carbon emissions to reach carbon

And eaters don’t always need labels to do the right thing. BIPOC

neutrality—a balance between the amount of carbon emitted into and

and women-owned businesses have been disproportionately impacted by

absorbed by the atmosphere. Climate Neutral also tries to account for the

the pandemic. Consumers can look to local farmers’ markets or Yelp and

entirety of the supply chain—emissions caused by on-site facilities, pur-

Google for businesses with a Black-owned or women-led badge.

chased electricity, employee transit, shipping and transporting materials.

Ultimately, labels and certifications are helpful tools, but don’t tell us

Instead of specific products, Climate Neutral certifies entire brands

everything about how food is produced. As eaters, though, we have the op-

once they achieve zero net carbon emissions for one year and requires

portunity, every time we pick up a fork, chopsticks or a spoon, to choose

them to commit to emission reduction targets annually. Jane Franch of

more economically, socially and environmentally just food systems.

Closing Thoughts From Our Founder Thank you for joining us on these pages, the fourth in a series of thought leadership pieces from Edible Communities. We would like to send a special thanks to our partners for this issue, Elena Seeley, Danielle Nierenberg and the team at Food Tank, who made this story possible. Exploring, investigating and changing our food system have been guiding principles of Edible Communities since we first began. And while I know our work has impact and is valued, there is still a lot more to do! In the case of labeling, for instance, it would be so easy if there were one label, one certification, one set of guidelines, one choice to make when it comes to our food, but alas, only one option would allow a broken food system to stay broken. Therefore, we hope you find this thought-provoking and thorough coverage on the topic informative and useful. As you are reading this, Edible Communities is fully into our 20th anniversary year as a media company. We are approaching 100 titles throughout North America and reach over 20 million readers each year. Those are statistics we don’t take lightly. We are grateful for you, dear readers, who help guide and sustain us. And if you’re an Edible reader, we feel you will enjoy being a Food Tank reader as well. Part of its mission statement says: “We aim to educate, inspire, advocate and create change,” and it certainly does that. I encourage you to visit foodtank.com, to listen, learn, join and be part of the conversation. Tracey Ryder, Co-Founder & CEO Edible Communities

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LAST BITE

VIX RE-PHIL: AN ALBUQUERQUE FOOD TRUCK Vix re-Phil is a dream come true for two New Mexico foodies with a passion for cookery and flavor that helped them launch Phil’s Gourmet Sauces in 2010. In their new food truck venture, Victoria Apodaca, a public school teacher, and Phil Apodaca, a retired air guard serviceman, show off their knack for reimagining favorites, from backyard barbecue classics to pub stunners. These include mesquite-smoked ribs, loaded brisket nachos, stuffed jalapeño poppers, and pecan-smoked salmon with herbed cheese, just to name a few. They are thrilled to share their favorites through their food truck at various venues in Albuquerque, and they are also available to cater events. Find locations for Vix re-Phil food truck at philsgourmetsauces.com. The Last Bite is brought to you by Rio Grande Credit Union and highlights New Mexico’s food entrepreneurs and small businesses.

Victoria and Phil Apodaca, owners of Vix re-Phil food truck. Photos by Stephanie Cameron.

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