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MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES
SANTA FE ®· ALBUQUERQUE · TAOS THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON IN NEW MEXICO
Up in Smoke ISSUE 50 · EARLY SUMMER JUNE / JULY 2017
photo: doug merriam
poured. stirred. smoked. sipped.
abuelito.
radishandrye.com 505.930.5325
UP IN SMOKE: JUNE / JULY DEPARTMENTS 2
GRIST FOR THE MILL By Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook
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CONTRIBUTORS
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LOCAL HEROES The Shop Breakfast + Lunch, and Santa Fe Brewing Company
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FRONT OF HOUSE El Nido Is On Fire by Ashlie Hughes
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TOOL OF THE TRADE Technique as Old as Time by Sophie Putka
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THE PLATE
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AT THE CHEF’S TABLE
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LIQUID TOURISM
The Feasting Place by Mark DeRespinis The Cure For What Ails You by Seth Matlick Liquid Tourism Flows South: NM Highway 28 by Sam L. Melada
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COOKING FRESH Up in Smoke
NOTABLES
79 DIGGING IN Sol Harvest Farm and MÁS by Natalie Bovis
82 #EDIBLENM Instagram Round Up
ON THE COVER
edible
MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES
SANTA FE ®· ALBUQUERQUE · TAOS THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON IN NEW MEXICO
83 SOURCE GUIDE / EAT LOCAL GUIDE 88 LAST BITE Colkegan's Fire
FEATURES 46 FIRE IN THE BELLY Live-Fire Cooking, So Hot Right Now? by Candolin Cook
52 OKTOBER FORESTS For New Mexico, Healthy Forests Mean Good Beer by Michael Dax
58 IN THE LINE OF FIRE
Up in Smoke ISSUE 50 · EARLY SUMMER JUNE / JULY 2017
"Up in Smoke.” Yes, the fire and smoke are real, and yes, we lit our table on fire to get the shot. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.
Trump's Immigration Policies and the Future of New Mexico's Chile Harvest by Moises Santos
64 THE HOG SQUEAL OF THE UNIVERSE Matanzas as a Personal Celebration of Food, Culture, and Family by Gianna M. May Sanchez
70 IN OUR OWN BACKYARD Edible Grills BBQ Expert Cheryl Jamison by Marjory Sweet WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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GRIST FOR THE MILL With the days heating up, we begin the summer by considering the fiery side of our local cuisine. New Mexico’s intimate relationship with fire, in its many forms, provides the heart and soul of our state’s food—from the forest fires that threaten our water supply to the campfires that transfix our gazes and transform our backcountry provisions into delicious meals. We examine the earthen pits that billow with smoke and produce tantalizing aromas during matanzas, the traditional hornos of the countryside, and the emergence of new wood-fired ovens in our cities’ hottest restaurants. We also consider the state’s most fiery vegetable, and how current labor concerns have stoked fears for future harvests. Controlling fire, according to some primatologists at least, is what initially made us human. The theory goes that because eating cooked food requires less time and energy than digesting raw food, early hominids were able to spend more time socializing (often around a fire), which stimulated cognitive function and brain development. In a sense, fire—which we often consider primordial or elemental—is transformative. In its mesmerizing conversion of potential energy into kinetic energy, it transforms inedible organic mass into nourishing food and human-like animals into humans. For New Mexicans, the ability to harness smoke and fire has led to some of our most beloved food traditions. These practices not only impart flavor to our dishes, they also connect us to our food, community, and humanity in ways that are at once visceral and cultivated. As we write this today, the western horizon bears a pallid yellow-brown tint from a forest fire burning in the Gila, its subtle scent in the breeze offering a reminder that we live close to fire. As climate change exacerbates rising temperatures and drought conditions, our forests become potential tinder boxes that can send ash and debris into our rivers, posing a slew of challenges to our brewers and farmers—from alkaline lagers to problems with irrigation. While we celebrate fire for its capacity as both culinary technique and ingredient, we must also remember the threat it can pose to our foodshed. With all that in mind, we encourage all of you to light up those grills, tell stories around a campfire, and consider the many ways fire adds depth to our food.
Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook, Editors
Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers
PUBLISHERS Bite Size Media, LLC Stephanie and Walt Cameron
EDITORS Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook
PUBLISHING CONSULTANT Jodi L. Vevoda
COPY EDITORS Margaret Marti and Briana Olson
DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron
PHOTO EDITOR Stephanie Cameron
EVENT COORDINATORS Natalie Donnelly and Gina Riccobono
DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Joshua Hinte
PUBLISHING ASSISTANT Rhiannon Fraizer
VIDEO PRODUCER Walt Cameron
SALES AND MARKETING Melinda Esquibel
CONTACT US 3301-R Coors Boulevard NW #152 Albuquerque, NM 87120 info@ediblesantafe.com www.ediblesantafe.com Phone: 505-375-1329
SUBSCRIBE ∙ BUY AN AD ∙ LETTERS 505-375-1329 WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at INFO@EDIBLESANTAFE.COM Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible Santa Fe six times a year. We distribute throughout central and northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. Printed at American Web Denver, Colorado No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2017 All rights reserved.
Winner of James Beard Foundation Award 2011 Publication of the Year
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CONTRIBUTORS NATALIE BOVIS Natalie Bovis founded TheLiquidMuse.com, Santa Fe Cocktail Week, and the New Mexico Cocktails & Culture festival, and she co-founded OM Organic Mixology Liqueurs. She hosts Digging In: A Recipe for Sustainability, an edible Santa Fe video series. She has authored three cocktail books, including Edible Cocktails: Garden-to-Glass (2012). A bar consultant and spirits educator, she was named one of four women leading the liquor industry by Bustle.com. STEPHANIE CAMERON Stephanie Cameron was raised in Albuquerque and received a degree in fine arts at the University of New Mexico. After photographing, testing, and designing a cookbook in 2011, she and her husband Walt began pursuing Edible Communities and they found edible Santa Fe in their backyard. Today, Cameron is the art director, head photographer, marketing guru, publisher, and owner of edible Santa Fe. WILLY CARLETON Willy Carleton lives in Albuquerque and is an avid vegetable grower, forager, and editor of edible Santa Fe. He is writing a dissertation on the agricultural history of twentieth-century New Mexico in the history department at the University of New Mexico. CANDOLIN COOK Candolin Cook is a history doctoral student at the University of New Mexico, an associate editor for the New Mexico Historical Review, and editor of edible Santa Fe. She spends much of her free time washing carrots and radishes at her husband’s vegetable farm, Vida Verde Farm, in Albuquerque's North Valley. Come check out their booth at the Downtown Growers Market, and follow her farm life on Instagram: @candolin and @vidaverdefarmabq. MICHAEL J. DAX Michael J. Dax lives in Santa Fe and writes about environment and culture in the American West. He is the author of Grizzly West: A Failed Attempt to Reintroduce Grizzly Bears in the Mountain West (2015). 4
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MARK DERESPINIS Mark DeRespinis is a farmer, photographic artist, foodie, and proud father. He encourages everyone to celebrate seasonal and local abundance every day in a new, or old, or really any old way. ASHLIE HUGHES Ashlie Hughes is a food and drink writer living in Santa Fe. When not writing, she enjoys playing home bartender, learning as much as possible about the world of wine, and working on her photography portfolio. Her website is www. ashliehughes.com. SETH MATLICK Seth Matlick grew up in Manhattan, far removed from the desert and farming. To his great delight, he found both in New Mexico in 2008, and he has been growing ever since at Vida Verde Farm. SAM L. MELADA Sam Melada is a local food and wine writer with a strong desire to make the history, language, and culture of wine more accessible and enjoyable to everyone. He is also a neuroscience nurse educator with UNM Hospitals and a graduate student in cognitive linguistics at UNM. SOPHIE PUTKA Sophie Putka is a Massachusetts transplant in love with New Mexico. She writes, studies journalism, and haunts Albuquerque eateries in search of a good bagel. She can usually be found in the kitchen, trying to use up as many leftovers as possible and plotting her next adventure. GIANNA M. MAY SANCHEZ Gianna M. May Sanchez is a native New Mexican and a graduate student at the University of New Mexico Department of History. You can follow her on Twitter @GiannaMayTweets. MOISES SANTOS Moises Santos is a PhD candidate in the history department at UNM. He works as an assistant editor at the New Mexico Historical Review and as a graduate instructor for the Chicana and Chicano Studies Department at UNM. Santos lives in Albuquerque with his wife, Lucy; their eightyear-old daughter, Soleil; and their newborn baby, Ricardo.
LOCAL HEROES Edible recognizes this group of amazing individuals and organizations for their work to create healthy, sustainable food systems in New Mexico. We determine these awards through reader nominations and a reader poll. The local food movement is a grassroots effort that often involves late nights, backbreaking work, dirty fingernails, and being a generally good sport. In an effort to showcase these individuals, organizations, and businesses for their work to build a stronger local economy and a robust local food system, each issue this year spotlights several of the winners with interviews about the work they do.
The Shop Breakfast + Lunch AN INTERVIEW WITH ISRAEL (IZZ) RIVERA, CHEF AND OWNER BEST CAFE, ALBUQUERQUE
Israel Rivera and red chile chilaquiles. Photos by Stephanie Cameron.
Since he was fifteen years old, Israel (Izz) Rivera has been working in kitchens. A high school dropout with no culinary education, Rivera says he learned the ropes from “awesome chefs who I worked for over the years and who inspired me to travel and learn as much as I can.” After two years as the sous chef at the Artichoke Café, in 2014 Rivera decided to open his own restaurant, The Shop, in Albuquerque’s Nob Hill neighborhood. What do you love most about local food? I love local food because I feel like that's the best way to connect to the culture and the people of their community. No matter where 6
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you are, or where you travel, food is the fastest way to get to know a people. I grew up eating Mexican food and New Mexican food, so nothing makes me feel more at home and connected than eating the food local to us, made by the people I know. It's the coolest thing to go have a meal prepared by your friends. I'm in the industry, so we are always trying to impress each other, haha. Tell us about your life outside of The Shop. Outside The Shop, I have a few hobbies, too many probably. I record and produce my own podcast, called mIZZ en place, all about food, cooking, restaurant culture, and whatever else I feel like blabbing
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LOCAL HEROES
Duck confit hash breakfast. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.
about. [It's available on iTunes and SoundCloud.] I train in mixed martial arts and hope to compete someday soon. I have chickens at my house, so I pretend to know how to be a mini-farmer. I read as much as I can. And I love to travel when I get the chance; the world is full of so much great cuisine, and I want to experience as much of it as I can while building my knowledge base of food. But mostly I work, or read about food, or plan dinners, haha. What’s your favorite way to spend a day off? Ideally, I would love to wake up late, have a big breakfast, coffee, and read a book while smoking a lovely cigar, then head to the movies and kick back. Usually, by then I'll be done relaxing and go straight back to studying food, haha. It's hard for us chef-types to fully relax. We always have something flying around our heads. Food study is one of my favorite things to do. In reality, my days off are full of errands and cleaning house. Do you have a serendipitous moment? I think if I had a serendipitous moment it would be just one day working at the Artichoke talking with Chef Tony [Nethery] and realizing that this job was becoming my career, and I fell in love all over again and started to travel more and really embrace the chef life. What do you love most about your work? I love the actual process of making food. Coming up with new ideas and taking it from just a thought to a dish is the coolest thing. It's a lot of work and focus, but that's the fun part. Then when someone enjoys it? That's so cool. To make something from scratch that people 8
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really enjoyed, it's an awesome feeling. I'm passionate about food, cooking, researching, and especially eating. I love going out and tasting what chefs are doing—I love it all. How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? Well, I got here I suppose by just sticking to it. I started working in kitchens just because it's the only work I could get when I was a kid with a criminal record, haha. I just started working and kept at it, and it turned out I was pretty good at just working hard. I worked my way up to the lead position in almost every restaurant I worked at, so I figured I should just keep doing it. After about five years, I realized that I really enjoy what I'm doing and that I could make a career out of it, so that's when I really started to take it seriously and started studying and expanding my food knowledge. Getting the sous chef position at Artichoke really cemented my desire to be a chef. I was making decent money doing something I love and was actually able to be creative with the food I was cooking; that's really where I started to develop my “style” of food and how I cook. I was actually planning on moving to San Francisco, but the opportunity to open The Shop just kind of fell in my lap and so I had to jump on it. People seem to like us, so here I am! We've got some cool things coming, too, so we won't just be cooking breakfast and lunch. What question do people always ask you? The question people always ask me is “what kind of food do you cook?” How does anyone answer that—hopefully, the good kind!
I'd rather people ask what kind of food I like to eat. The answer is really just food that's prepared with care and love. It doesn't have to be fancy, just well-made food by people who care, that's what I'm about. Who would you like to have lunch with? If I could have lunch with anyone it would probably be Anthony Bourdain. I mean there are so many chefs I would love to talk to and pick their brain about the cuisine they do—like Sean Brock, Enrique Olvera, Alex Atala, Matthew Jennings, David Chang, just to name a few off the top of my head. But Bourdain has been all over the world, and he knows a lot about food. I just think it would be the coolest thing to talk about all kinds of foods from all over the world, and all his crazy experiences with the people—understanding the people of a place helps you understand the food better, and I think he would have a great perspective on that. Plus, we could talk about jiu jitsu too! Maybe even roll a couple rounds! What would you be doing if you weren’t a chef? If I wasn't doing what I'm doing now, in all honesty, I'd probably be in jail or dead somewhere. I'm only able to be where I'm at because I'm sober now. I've had trouble with the law since I was a kid and had a whole lot of trouble with booze and drugs. But I'm done with all that now; it’s been seven years since I touched the stuff. If I wasn't sober, shit wouldn't be so good, I promise you that. The kitchen, while it almost enabled me in a way to stay fucked up all the time, it also, ultimately, helped to save my life by giving me something else to obsess about. What are people most surprised to learn about you? Most people are surprised to know basically what I just said in the previous question, haha. People who don't know me from the past are always surprised when I tell them I don't drink or anything like that. And that I didn't go to culinary school, that surprises a lot of people for some reason. What gets you fired up? Music. Hard, fast music gets me fired up, whether I'm heading to work or the gym, that's how I get the blood pumping. Food also gets me fired up, but in a different way, like eating an amazing meal motivates me to step my game up. And it really gets the gears turning, a good conversation about food can do the same thing. Is there anything else you'd like to share with edible readers? Really, it's just like I said at the [Local Heroes] award ceremony, I'm just super honored that the readers of edible would even mention me in the same sentence with the rest of [the nominees]. It's such a cool feeling to know that all the hard work you've put in is being realized, and I just hope I can continue to support the community and stay true to my values and continue to be considered a local hero. 2933 Monte Vista Blvd NE, Albuquerque www.facebook.com/TheShopBreakfastandLunch
LOCAL HEROES
Santa Fe Brewing
AN INTERVIEW WITH BRIAN LOCK, PRESIDENT AND OWNER BEST BEVERAGE ARTISAN, ALCOHOLIC
Santa Fe Brewing warehouse and taproom on Fire Place in Santa Fe. Photos by Stephanie Cameron.
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Brian Lock was born and raised in Portland, Oregon, where the craft beer industry is legendary. After college, he returned to Portland to work in that craft beer scene. He relocated to Santa Fe in 1995 and a year later became part owner of Santa Fe Brewing. In 2003, Lock bought out his three partners to become the sole owner of the business. Santa Fe Brewing Company is New Mexico’s oldest brewery, established in 1988, and has a strong commitment to sustainability, technological advancement, and brewing the highest-quality beers. What do you love most about local food? What I like about local food is knowing where and how it is grown because consuming it is the best way to live a healthy and prosperous life. Santa Fe has an amazing local food culture and I am glad to be a part of it.
ins napk d neede
Tell us about your life outside of Santa Fe Brewing. Life outside of Santa Fe Brewing is pretty limited right now with all of the projects we are undergoing, but when I get a break, I spend time with my two kids and amazing wife. What's your favorite way to spend a day off? Spending time with my family and enjoying the outdoors. I love skiing in the winter and rafting in the summer. I also really enjoy working at our hop farm, and might enjoy a beer or two if I am lucky.
a creative take on classic cuisine 100 E. San Francisco St, Santa Fe 505.995.2334 | lafondasantafe.com Open Daily 7am-10pm
Do you have a serendipitous moment? My serendipitous moment is when I was introduced to Alfonz Viszolay in 2004 or 2005. He was wearing cowboy boots and turquoise jewelry and had a Hungarian accent—he was hard not to notice. He approached me and said, “I could help you get this brewery going.” I responded, “What experience do you have?” He said, “I have built breweries all over the world from South Africa to Japan.” At first, I did not believe him, but after touring his shop across the interstate and seeing photos of him in production plants all over the world, I said, “When can you start?” The rest is history, as he has been instrumental in the growth of the brewery, from repairs to engineering the current canning line, layout, and streamlining processes throughout the brewery. He has also designed and built our state-of-the-art wastewater treatment system, which we hope to have running by the end of May. This system will be one-of-a-kind for New Mexico and will provide us with the ability to water our large, future beer garden with one hundred percent wastewater, all reclaimed from the brewing process. What do you love most about your work? I love my staff because I can tell we share the same passion toward our products. We have such a diverse team, but we all have one thing in common—the love of beer. What was the moment that brought you to your current work? On a hot summer day, at an undisclosed age, I remember my mom splitting a Rainier beer with me in our backyard. I don’t WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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President and owner Brian Lock of Santa Fe Brewing Company. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.
think she knew that this would spark my interest in drinking beer, but it did, and the rest is history. Sorry, Mom! If you could have lunch with anyone who would it be?
What are people surprised to learn about you? Most people are surprised to learn that I am amazing at Just Dance— well, maybe “amazing” isn’t exactly the right word.
If I had the chance, I would have lunch with the owner of Sierra Nevada, Ken Grossman. I'd ask him all about the green, environmentally-friendly processes he has put in place [at his brewery], including his fuel cells, which he purchased well before anyone knew what they were.
What makes you laugh?
What would you be doing if you weren’t doing what you do now?
Really, the question is what is not new at Santa Fe Brewing? With our brewhouse expansion come new employees, new beers, a new tasting room, new packaging, and probably a few new grey hairs. It is an exciting time to be part of Santa Fe Brewing.
I'd be a farmer. With the addition of the Santa Fe Brewing hop farm in Rinconada, I have found a new obsession with all of the different kinds of Neomexicanus hop varieties that can be grown in the high desert. I am really excited about the four varieties we have been cultivating—Ammalia, Neo1, Latir, and Medusa (multi-head)—because they are so unique to the craft brewing industry and are becoming more and more sought after by brewers around the country. 12
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I always laugh when I hear my kids laughing. The sound of them cracking up is infectious. What's new at Santa Fe Brewing?
BREWERY/TASTING ROOM, 35 Fire Place, Santa Fe EL DORADO TAPHOUSE, 7 Caliente Road, Santa Fe ALBUQUERQUE TAPROOM, 3600 Cutler NE, Albuquerque www.santafebrewing.com
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FRONT OF HOUSE
El Nido Is On Fire Story and photos by Ashlie Hughes
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The aroma of smoked meat wafting from El Nido lets you know you are in for a treat before you even set foot inside. Once you step into the main dining room, your eyes are drawn to the exhibition kitchen, where Chef Enrique Guerrero or one of his cooks tends to a smorgasbord of meat sizzling over a blazing open flame. It’s going to be a good night. In the corner of the open kitchen sits the restaurant’s wood-fired oven, where an array of rustic pizzas, breads, and vegetables rotate in and out. Depending on the night, you might be lucky enough to see a skewered suckling pig, a baby lamb, or a goat turning slowly on the rotisserie. It has been more than half a year since the shuttered El Nido reopened its doors with Guerrero at its helm. It’s fitting because as Guerrero tells it, El Nido was the first restaurant he visited in the Santa Fe area. Back then, the Tesuque neighborhood steakhouse was bustling with a real sense of community. Guerrero says, “It was a very cool place. Everyone knew each other. The owners were on the floor and they knew everybody.” Guerrero’s interest in food was encouraged from an early age. Raised on a ranch in Durango, Mexico, Guerrero learned that the more simple the food, the more rewarding the experience. Inspired by his great-great grandmother, who cooked most of the family meals over an open fire rather than a gas oven, he employed this same philosophy when creating El Nido’s menu; simple and honest. “We’re not fancy. We don’t want to show off like big restaurants. We make simple pizzas. We make our own dough for the pizzas. We make fresh pastas. Everything is made in-house,” he says. A love of cooking eventually brought Guerrero to work in prestigious kitchens in San Francisco, Napa, and New York City, even as the personal chef for a former president of Mexico. And while his culinary training focused on Italian cuisine, he spent several years working at the iconic French Laundry, where French classics seamlessly blend with Californian influences. In New Mexico, Guerrero’s resume is vast but includes several years as the executive chef at La Casa Sena and a few stints teaching culinary arts in Santa Fe. Since 2013, he has been the owner of the award-winning Santa Fe based food truck, Bang Bite, also known for its simple but well executed menu of high-quality burgers, sandwiches, and fries. It’s obvious that Guerrero enjoys what he does. He regularly seeks out inspiration for El Nido’s seasonal menus and weekly specials by visiting local farmers markets or by drawing on his experiences traveling to other cities. Rather than focusing on the diversity demanded by the modern-day foodie, Guerrero’s most significant motivation developing his menu is simple: making food his seventeen-year-old son loves to eat. Opposite, top: Eighty to eighty-five percent of El Nido’s menu is cooked in the wood-fired oven, on the rotisserie, or on the grill. Bottom: Enrique Guerrero slices meat hot from the grill while Chef Brandon watches over a suckling pig on the spit.
730 St Michaels Drive, Santa Fe, 505.471.0440 www.loyalhoundpub.com | Lunch & Dinner, Monday-Saturday WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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FRONT OF HOUSE
Guerrero estimates that eighty to eighty-five percent of El Nido’s menu is cooked in the wood-fired oven, on the rotisserie, or on the grill. This is a significant portion, especially considering that the original restaurant wasn’t equipped with any of these culinary tools before Guerrero joined. The oven at El Nido can reach temperatures approaching one thousand degrees, but is kept between 750–850 degrees to cook the pizzas. Once inside the oven, the pizzas take only three to five minutes to bake. As the oven cools, the kitchen will sometimes take advantage of the lower temperatures to slow-cook cuts of meat overnight.
marinades. A customer favorite is steak seasoned with porcini powder, which offers an extra layer of flavor once cooked over an open flame. During spring and summer, the menu will focus on flavors from the open fire, with more seafood options, such as lardo-wrapped scallops baked in the wood-fired oven, grilled oysters, and peel-and-eat shrimp. The restaurant will also offer more wines by the glass and amari-based cocktails (amari are Italian, bitter herbal liqueurs), which will make for excellent accompaniments to El Nido's offerings. The expansive outdoor patio is slated to feature a bar converted from an old-school Airstream trailer.
To heat the oven and the grill, a variety of woods such as applewood, mesquite, and pecan are used during the winter months. During the spring and summer, the kitchen will rely on fruity, milder options, such as apricot and cherry wood.
1577 Bishops Lodge Road, Santa Fe, 505-954-1272 www.elnidosantafe.com
For seasonings, Guerrero typically keeps it simple, using quality olive oil and salt, although the restaurant also employs dry rubs and
Above: Guerrero at the helm of the exhibition kitchen making grilled meats and veggies, and wood-fired pizzas.
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Thanks to Guerrero and his team, the spirit of El Nido is back.
Organic · Gluten-free · Plant-Based Cuisine Friday and Saturday, 11am-9pm Sunday Buffet, brunch thru dinner, 11am-9pm 4500 Silver Ave SE, Albuquerque In Nob Hill at Jefferson 505-639-3401 • vibranceabq.com
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TOOLS OF THE TRADE
Technique as Old as Time NEAPOLITAN PIZZA AT AMORE By Sophie Putka · Photos by Stacey Mustard Adams
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Behind all great pizza is a little bit of mystery. A home recipe will never quite attain the crisp crust, chewy interior, and perfectly melty toppings of an expertly crafted pizzeria slice. It’s one of those things better left to the pros. At Albuquerque’s Amore Neapolitan Pizza, the only certified Neapolitan pizzeria in New Mexico, Chef Gabriel Amador is willing to unveil the mystery just a little bit.The secret? In pizza, the oven is key, and tradition rules supreme. Amador and his wife, Kimberly, decided to open a pizzeria after they met in Naples, Italy, and fell in love with the culture and cuisine. When they moved from Denver to Albuquerque in 2005, it seemed like the perfect opportunity. Neapolitan-style pizza is the first and oldest form of pizza. It originated in Naples and gained widespread popularity after, as legend has it, a “pizza Margherita” was presented to Queen Margherita of Savoy in the 1880s. As Amador tells it, the people intended the offering of peasant food as an impertinent joke. As luck would have it, Margherita delighted in the pizza that had been prepared for her with red sauce, white mozzarella, and green basil—the colors of the then-new Italian flag. To Amador, this story embodies one of the keys to the timeless food. “Pizza is unifying, and it brought the classes together,” he said. But not just anyone can open a Neapolitan pizzeria. The label is protected by a European regulation called Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (TSG) status, which, much like the geographical protections for champagne and parmigiano reggiano, ensures that the product isn’t imitated by manufacturers from another region or made with unapproved techniques. Amador and his team were trained in the process by Roberto Caporuscio, president of the Association of Neapolitan Pizzaioli or APN, a US certifying body for Neapolitan pizza. Central to this process at Amore’s Central Avenue location is an oven named Claudia. She is dark, fiery, and classically beautiful— much like her Italian namesake, actress Opposite: Amore’s Stefano Ferrara oven, Claudia; below, the Margherita pizza.
Claudia Cardinale. Across her front in Italian marble tiling is the name Stefano Ferrara. Ferarra’s name has become synonymous with top-of-the-line ovens for Neapolitan pizza making. Ferrara painstakingly handbuilds and exports dozens of ovens using techniques that haven’t changed for nearly one hundred years. Importing a Stefano Ferrara oven from Naples can be a massive undertaking, costing up to tens of thousands of dollars and lasting months. This oven, one of two installed in the two Amore locations, weighs 6,500 pounds and couldn’t even be moved with a forklift. The doors and hinges had to be taken off the restaurant’s front entrance to get the oven in. For Amador, it was a nerve-wracking process. “I couldn’t even watch when they came through,” he said. But for Amador and a rapidly growing group of Neapolitan pizza loyalists, it’s all worth it. Form and function in a Stefano Ferrara oven combine to create consistent results. Mud, ash, and clay taken from Mt. Vesuvius form the bricks, which are designed to retain heat at extremely high temperatures. Before use, the oven must be completely dried out in a special process that evaporates moisture from the thermal mass. A layer of salt laid between the tile and the bricks melts and hardens, forming a perfect seal that keeps everything in place. During use, the oven is heated to 900 degrees on its floor and 1100–1200 degrees in the dome; the pizza itself only stays in for 60–90 seconds. Unlike the wood-fired ovens that are favored by many pizza makers, Claudia is powered by gas, which allows for superior control of the temperature. Two torches fire at one end of the oven, and air is pulled from the opening in the front to be heated and eventually cycled out of the top of the dome into the built-in vent. Amador said the inspectors who came to evaluate the restaurant asked him to install a restaurant hood over the oven until he showed them the built-in vent, part of the oven’s design for almost a century. After being topped with sauce made from the required San Marzano tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, and basil leaves, the pizza goes into the oven. It is turned three times to face the flame, and emerges perfectly charred in
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
Chef and owner Gabriel Amador working the oven.
less than a minute and a half. With a dash of olive oil and a sprinkle of fresh basil leaves, it’s ready to be served. And despite the stringent requirements, Neapolitan pizza, along with Ferrara’s handmade ovens, has been on the rise. According to an article by pizzamarketplace.com, between 1998 and 2011, fifty restaurants in the US were certified through the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (VPN), the main certifying body for US restaurants. The APN, which certified Amore, is a newer certifier. Now, the VPN’s website boasts ninetysix accredited restaurants. That’s forty-six more restaurants in just six years. 20
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Amador thinks the certifications are more popular lately because customers have come to value authenticity. “If you think you’re getting a Neapolitan pizza and you don’t, you’re going to be disappointed,” he said. Of pizza makers, he said, “It’s a good thing because it makes people honest. They’re doing it the right way.” In Albuquerque, however, many pizza lovers have never heard of Neapolitan pizza. Though New Mexico may have more to learn about pizza than say, New York, Amador said that’s the beauty of being in Albuquerque. “We get to do things here that we wouldn’t get to do other places,” he said. The newness of a place like Amore allows for more creativity and the joy of introducing both
time-trusted traditions and new innovations to customers. When Amador shared his menu with APN’s Caporuscio for the first time, the Italian was appalled. Why was there chile on the pizzas, he wanted to know. Privately, Amador thought, “Because it’s New Mexico and if I didn’t do that, I’d be hanging from a lightbulb.” With some convincing, Caporuscio relented, and eventually approved what was then the first Neapolitan green and red chile pizza in the world. It’s been on the menu ever since. 1700 Central SW and 3600 Cutler NE, Albuquerque, www.amoreabq.com
Red River Mexican Restaurant
Rocky mountain fun.
Homemade Mexican food served in a casual southwest atmosphere in Red River. Appetizers, Sundance specials, lots of combos, sopapillas, and steaks. Beer, wine, sangria, and wine margaritas available. Reservations recommended.
401 E High Street, Red River, 575-754-2971 77th Annual July 4th Parade July 4th
Don’t miss the largest parade in northern New Mexico, followed by a full day of family-friendly activities all over town.
Wags & Wine July 29
Training & agility demos, dog fashion show, pet psychic, pet photos, kids’ activities, wine tasting, music and more. Hot diggety dog!
Hot Chili Days, Cool Mountain Nights August 15-20
Texan Larry Joe Taylor’s music and chili fest includes the Lone Star BBQ Society cook-off, New Mexico State Chile Championship and lots more.
RedRiver.org/events @RedRiverNM
RedRiver1895
@Red_River_NM
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THE PLATE
The Feasting Place HORNO HEART AND HOME
Story and photos by Mark DeRespinis
Horno at The Feasting Place, where Hutch Naranjo stokes the coals.
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In my heart and memory, the original feasting place will always be my grandmother’s dining room table, where the whole family gathered around as course after course filled the center in a generous culinary spread with holiday abundance. So it was fitting when I found myself at another grandmother’s table recently, sharing food with others who had come to learn about the traditional feasts of the Pueblo people of northern New Mexico. With peach blossoms hanging heavily on the trees, I arrived at the home of Norma Naranjo and her husband, Hutch, on Ohkey Owingeh Pueblo, where they operate their catering and culinary tourism business, The Feasting Place. Hutch welcomed me at the door and took me into the kitchen to meet Norma. She was preparing for the day’s horno cooking class and encouraged me to go out back to see the traditional outdoor oven. Beneath the shade of towering elm trees, loaded with bright green samaras, their outdoor kitchen contains a perfect corn-processing area with burners and barrels for boiling pots, a cobbing machine, big drying racks, and, at the center of it all, two domed and mudded hornos. Hutch gave me a tour and explained how making chicos and blue cornmeal each require distinctive processes for the horno. All the corn for The Feasting Place is grown on Hutch’s land on Santa Clara Pueblo. He grows about an acre of white corn for chicos (dried corn) and a little less than an acre of blue corn for cornmeal. For chicos, Hutch and his family pick the corn when it is at a certain ripeness. Once picked, they soak the ears with the husks on, to absorb moisture, and place them into the horno on top of a bed of coals. Hutch then closes the horno opening with a stone and muds it up. He pours water through the vent hole, which is also sealed, and the corn steams inside the hot oven. After Hutch takes the corn out of the oven, the family removes the husks and places the cobs on racks to dry. After several weeks of drying, Hutch passes the corn through the cobbing machine, where the chaff is blown away by a fan. The corn is stored in big barrels for distribution to
family, to the community for feast days, and for sale to a restaurant in Santa Fe. For blue cornmeal, the corn is left to dry naturally on the cob. Then the family picks it and spreads the ears to dry on racks to ensure all moisture is gone. They remove the husks, then the kernels, from the cobs. Hutch builds a fire inside the horno to make good coals, then removes the coals and mops the oven floor to make a clean surface for dry roasting the blue corn. He stirs and roasts the kernels for about two hours before removing them to cool. From there, the roasted corn is sent to Santa Ana Pueblo to be milled. As I listened to Hutch describe these processes, I was overwhelmed with the abundance generated in this small backyard processing area, and I thought of all the people who would be eating that corn over the course of the year. Norma called me inside and introduced me to the two guests for the horno cooking class: Diane from South Carolina and her niece Linda from Missouri. Norma promptly began mixing ingredients for pie crust, and before long I was rolling out dough for prune- and peach-filled empanadas. Norma explained that the horno was originally introduced to the Spanish by the Moors, and that Spanish occupiers in the Southwest had trained the Pueblo women to cook in them to prepare feasts for Catholic saints days. As we filled and folded, Norma remembered the wild plums lining the ditches before they were cemented, proposing that was why they had always made prune empanadas. As we spooned peach preserves made from Norma's 2016 harvest onto the pastry, she told us that the Spanish brought many of the other fruit trees with them when they came to the area. Norma rolled out a big flat crust for a prune pastelito, covered it and pinched the sides, and made little fancy slits in the top piece of dough. She put the pastry-filled pans aside, noting that they were her grandmother’s pans that had been passed down to her along with many of the recipes and methods of preparation. We visitors proceeded to chop, slice, and dice vegetables
Norma and Hutch Naranjo with fresh baked goodies from the horno.
for pico de gallo and vegetarian green chile stew, while Norma whipped up a batch of blue corn muffins. When the horno was ready, we ceremoniously marched outside with pie and muffin pans, trays of sliced horno-baked bread for crostini to go with the pico de gallo, and vegetables to roast for green chile stew. Placing them on a wooden paddle to be delivered into the baking cavity, each pan was situated according to when it would need to be removed. While everything cooked, we told gardening stories and huddled around the warm oven to buffer the effects of a cool April afternoon breeze, taking turns beside the pile of coals that had been removed from the horno af24
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ter they had done their job. “It's the river rock that really does the cooking,� Hutch said as he described building the oven from layers of adobe bricks, river rock, and plasters of different clays mixed with straw. The surface of the horno needs to be replastered every year or so, sometimes more, depending on the rains. After twenty minutes or so, Norma began to remove the muffins and empanadas, the vegetables, and the pie. Just then, the richness of the meal’s relationship with the horno struck me: every element of our upcoming feast came together under the influence of the wood, the earth, the fire, and the smoke.
Inside, the dining room table was set and filled with classic dishes of a northern New Mexico feast: posole, green chile stew, blue corn muffins, and freshly baked bread. Eyes wide and eager, we all began to serve ourselves and hand dishes around to each other. At first bite, the satisfaction of the feasting place that I first knew as a child arose in my heart once again. But here, the earth-roasted flavor of the horno, just as it had for generations, permeated every bite. By preparing the meal together and gathering around the oven to cook it, we connected with all those who had done the same before. www.thefeastingplace.com
Funded by Silver City Lodger’s Tax WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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AT THE CHEF'S TABLE
The Cure For What Ails You FINDING SCIENCE AND HISTORY AT M'TUCCI'S DELI COUNTER By Seth Matlick · Photos by Sergio Salvador
Top: Cured meats. Bottom, left to right: Cory Gray and Shawn Cronin greet you with a smile at M'tucci's deli counter; smoking the meat.
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If you talk to chefs Cory Gray and Shawn Cronin of Albuquerque’s M’tucci’s Italian Market and Deli, you’ll find they are passionate about food and cooking. But if you talk to either of them specifically about the art of curing, aging, and smoking meats to create high-quality charcuterie, you’ll realize that these two are fanatics. Over the course of our conversation, we delved into all things salumi—from the historical origins to the legal red tape to a multitude of recipes and techniques. At one point, Gray went so deep into the microbiology of the process that I felt he could easily swap out his chef ’s coat for a lab coat. These chefs are true connoisseurs of charcuterie, and the product at M’tucci’s is better for it. Curing, aging, and smoking were techniques born out of necessity to help extend the shelf life of meat during the times that predated refrigeration. The use of salt and smoke to keep decomposition and spoilage at bay allowed people to get through long winters and periods of scarcity. As technologies have advanced, we don’t rely on these old processes to survive, but they are all still very much ingrained in most contemporary cultures in one form or another. Gray’s and Cronin’s interests stem from these historic origins. Rooted in learning about self-sufficiency, Gray hopes to someday have his own land, where he can farm and provide for himself and his family. Cronin was raised by a mother who grew up in Germany and brought her home country’s traditions with her to New Mexico. Cronin says, “What we know as charcuterie boards or meat and cheese trays are just part of a traditional European family gathering, so even as a child I enjoyed salumi and wanted to be able to make it.” And learn to make it they have. Every week, out of their small but mighty kitchen, Gray and Cronin, along with their kitchen crew, produce more than one hundred pounds of bacon, one hundred pounds of pancetta, and at least ten other varieties of cured and aged meats. This is in addition to the two hundred loaves of bread they are baking daily, and countless other fermented and pickled products.
The humble origins of their now epic operation began when the two worked together at Farina Pizzeria in EDo. They connected over a common love of charcuterie and began to experiment in producing pancetta, at first using a converted old refrigerator as an aging chamber. Since then, the two have upgraded to an eight-by-eight foot walk-in refrigerator, complete with an ultrasonic humidifier (a necessity for aging in the arid Southwest), and a laptop dedicated to recording every detail of the aging process. Curing and aging may be low-tech, old-school techniques of preservation, but there are still many things to keep track of and plenty that can go wrong. Cronin points out that “on the one hand, these are techniques that have been performed successfully for thousands of years; on the other hand, a bit of carelessness can cause serious illness.” This is one of the main reasons they admit they are always neurotic in their approach. From the very beginning of the process they are extremely precise, starting with careful butchery, documenting the starting weight and water content of the muscle being used, measuring and applying the exact amount of salt and sugar to cure for a week, and rinsing and drying before finally hanging the meat to age for up to nine months at fifty-five to sixty degrees and fifty-five to sixty percent humidity. The use of a climate-controlled aging chamber and the precision required to produce salumi are reason enough for most chefs to outsource their charcuterie needs. Currently there are very few restaurants in Albuquerque producing their own charcuterie, and those that do have limited offerings and are restricted to using it on their in-house menus (and not for resale to customers to take home). When Gray and Cronin set out to sell directly to customers, there was no legal precedent locally. Cronin remembers first approaching the health inspectors about their plans and being told they couldn’t do it. “The whole issue is that since there are a lot of variables and technicalities involved in curing, it was easier to tell restaurants no.” Their determination and dedication to the craft led them to point out to the health inspectors that there was no law saying they couldn’t, so together
Savor the flavors of New Mexico
This summer, El Rancho de las Golondrinas living history museum presents two events for lovers of local food and wine. July 1–2 24th Annual Santa Fe Wine Festival Celebrate your freedom with handmade wines from New Mexico wineries. Dance to live music and explore a unique arts and crafts fair! August 5–6 Panza Llena, Corazón Contento: New Mexico Food Fest Sample delicious locally made creations, experience historic methods of food preparation, learn from food historians and find something special from our vendors and artisans.
(505) 471-2261 www.golondrinas.org 334 Los Pinos Road, Santa Fe partially funded by the city of santa fe arts commission and the 1% lodgers’ tax, county of santa fe lodgers’ tax, new mexico arts, and the santa fe new mexican
AT THE CHEF'S TABLE
Left: Shawn Cronin and Cory Gray dusted in flour. Right: Slicing cured and smoked meats.
with the USDA they created the necessary protocols to safely and legally retail their products, making them the first and only business in New Mexico to do what they do. Since charcuterie items take one to nine months to produce, but only a week or two to consume, it is important to keep the production going—another reason careful records need to be kept. To stay on schedule, the team starts the process of making some of their most popular items twice a week. They offer one of their best sellers, pancetta, at their deli and market, and feature it regularly on the menu at the adjacent M’tucci’s restaurant. At any given time, they might have fifteen to twenty slabs of pancetta hanging and aging, and this is only one of the dozen 28
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items they have in regular production. Sharing space with the pancetta you can also find coppa, guanciale, salami, mortadella, and bresaola (all delicious). Though the curing and aging process is very similar for lots of these products (with the exception of salami and mortadella, both made of ground meat instead of a whole muscle), the flavors and textures vary, and it is definitely worth trying all of them to discover the subtle differences. The room can house ten thousand pounds at a time, and, if in full production, can produce close to fifty thousand pounds of aged meat in a year. Though it is a lot of work, Gray says it’s a lot of fun for the two of them. “We have complete creative control and get to keep pushing where we want to go. Eventually we would love to have our entire deli
counter full of our products.” Currently, the salumi they are making represent an impressive twenty-five percent of the deli’s offerings—products holding their own against some amazing meats from Italy and Spain. Cronin says, “All in all, we just want to take thousand-year-old traditions and make them acceptable again. Can meat curing be dangerous? Absolutely. Can it be safe and life-changingly delicious? Absolutely. We just want to do what our great-great-great grandmothers did, because at the end of the day it showcases quality product, technical precision, and fun flavor combinations.” 6001 Winter Haven NW, Albuquerque www.mtuccis.com/market-pizzeria
from 6pm thru 9pm WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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Liquid Tourism Flows South NM HIGHWAY 28
By Sam L. Melada · Photos by Chelsea A. Canon
Left: NM Highway 28. Right: Sunset in the vineyard.
Warm weather has come to New Mexico, so there’s no better time to take a short drive and explore what’s happening across the state. In this installment of Liquid Tourism, I encourage adventurous wine tasters to look south. We start our first “wine trail” of 2017 at mile marker zero on New Mexico Highway 28 and work our way north to Las Cruces. The sights, sounds, sips, and stops along this roughly thirty-mile stretch of highway are full of surprises for a long, relaxing, early summer weekend. In our last issue, Chris Goblet from New Mexico Wine highlighted NM Highway 28 as an upcoming destination for in-state wine tourism. To get more local guidance from winemakers in the south, I spoke to David Fisher of Sombra Antigua Winery in Anthony and to Morgan Switzer-McGinley from NM Vintage Wines in Mesilla. Fisher recommends beginning at Zin Valle Vineyards, just a few hundred feet over the Texas-New Mexico border, technically in the funky outpost of Canutillo, Texas. The winery produces several reds and whites (sparkling, still, and rosé) and features other wines that they import and sell 30
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at the tasting room. From there, Fisher suggests heading north about three miles to La Viña Winery in Anthony, New Mexico (making sure, in the autumn, to stop at the corn maze). According to Fisher, another must is Sierra Vista Growers to see their offerings of trees, annual and perennial plants, local fresh eggs, and pecans. Later this year, they will be opening an expanded retail outlet. When you get to La Viña, you can tour the winery and explore the twenty-eight different wines they make from grapes grown in the surrounding hills. Two miles up and about two miles east on NM 225, you can dine at Ernesto’s for breakfast or lunch. Fisher and his wife (and partner in winemaking) Theresa dine there “about four times a week.” David and Theresa’s Sombra Antigua Winery is another two miles up NM 28, nestled among pecan trees and vines. They have live music on Saturdays and Sundays, and they recommend following them on Facebook to keep abreast of the goings on. They offer eight reds, including a Malbec and a Montepulciano, and four whites, ranging from Pinot Grigio to Malvasia and Riesling. They also offer a variety
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LIQUID TOURISM
Left: Vintage glassware at NM Vintage Wines. Right: Wine tasting on the southern wine trail.
of beers from New Mexico’s own Abbey Brewing Company. Continuing up NM 28 another five or six miles, you will find the landmark Chope’s Town Bar and Café in La Mesa. They serve a variety of New Mexican favorites, and Fisher recommends their legendary chile rellenos. Traveling another three miles north on NM 28, to the town of San Miguel, architecture and history buffs can appreciate the famous San Miguel Catholic Church, made of local volcanic rock in the late nineteenth century, before continuing on to the final stretch of this southern wine trail. From spring to fall, the stretch of NM 28 between the stone church and Stahmann’s 3200-acre pecan grove is dotted with local seasonal produce sellers, so keep some space available in your car in case you find something you can’t resist along your way to the grove. While the retail store at Stahmann’s has been closed for a few years, you can schedule a tour of the harvesting and processing. Fisher was sure to point out the four-mile stretch of road off NM 28 where the pecan trees have been allowed to grow over the road, creating a gorgeous canopy. From Stahmann’s, it’s only a few miles north to Mesilla, where travellers walk the streets that were once walked by Billy the Kid. The plaza in Old Mesilla is a good place to stroll around before dining at Josefina’s Old Gate, La Posta de Mesilla, or Andele. Here 32
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you will find Morgan Switzer-McGinley’s NM Vintage Winery with wines made from four different varietals, house-crafted beers, and cigars. All can be enjoyed in their tasting room, along with tapas and treats made from the best New Mexico ingredients. As NM 28 exits Mesilla and dissolves into the greater Las Cruces area, some of the wine-tasting options include Heart of the Desert, St. Clair, and Luna Rossa, all within the city. Fisher suggests this journey end at Amaro Winery on South Melendres Street. All of their wines are made from grapes grown in southern New Mexico and they offer a variety of bottles from sweet to off-dry to dry. In thirty short miles, you can cover a lot of ground in southern New Mexico wine country, and with a little investigation of your own into some of the nearby activities recommended here, you can customize your tour of one of the lesser-known gems of New Mexico. Liquid Tourism can provide you with more to explore in the coming months, and I look forward to exploring with you. www.sierravistagrowers.net, www.sombraantigua.com, www.lavinawinery.com, www.amarowinerynm.com, www.stahmannpecan.com, www.nmvintagewines.com, www.winecountrynm.com
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COOKING FRESH
Up in Smoke THE SIXTH TASTE SENSATION Photos by Stephanie Cameron
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For this issue’s Cooking Fresh, edible gathered a collection of techniques that employ cooking with smoke and fire. There are five established basic taste sensations: sweetness, sourness, saltiness, bitterness, and umami. Some have argued there is a sixth taste sensation—smokiness—that imparts a rich earthiness to food. The recipes featured in "Up in Smoke" come not only from our personal experiences, but from many knowledgeable folks kind enough to share their secrets.
Charcoal-cooked Veggies CHARCOAL-ROASTED BEETS Recipe by Colin Shane, Arroyo Vino 8 medium red and/or yellow beets with tops still on, if possible 2 tablespoons toasted piñon or pine nuts 1 tablespoon fresh horseradish, peeled and grated 3 ounces goat chèvre 1 Granny Smith apple, thinly sliced or diced 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons lemon juice 2 teaspoons whole grain mustard Spicy bitter greens (arugula, dandelion, watercress, etc.) Balsamic vinegar Sea salt and fresh cracked black pepper Mesquite charcoal
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Fill your grill with the mesquite charcoal and light. Make sure there is a healthy amount of charcoal as you will need to bury the beets as best as possible in the charcoal coals. Allow charcoal to cook until it has slight white edges and embers have formed, about 20–30 minutes. While the charcoal is cooking, cut the tops off the beets (about an inch from the top) and reserve any medium-small tender beet greens. When charcoal is ready, make a small nest with the coals; place the beets inside and cover with the remaining coals. (For an added smoky flavor, add some wood chips into the coals before starting the beets.) Cook the beets for 30–45 minutes, turning every 10 minutes and re-covering with the coals as best you can until they have a black crust all over with small patches of white ash. They should be tender enough for a knife to penetrate but do not need to be fully cooked. When ready, remove the beets from the grill and place into a metal or heat proof bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Allow the beets to steam and cool to room temperature in the covered bowl for 1–2 hours.
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BEING THER E an extraordinary shop
stor e hours: wednesday - satur day: 10am to 6pm sunday: 12pm to 5pm monday & tuesday : closed 1315 mountain road nw, albuquerque, nm 87104 (505) 433-3204 | beingther eabq.com
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COOKING FRESH
Apricot and piĂąon mole Grilled peach salad and mint pesto
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When the beets are cool enough to handle, gently rub off the black crust with your hands. They should be soft enough to easily penetrate with a paring knife. Cut into small wedges for a platter-style serving or chop fine into a tartare-style appetizer. Toss the beets with the sea salt and cracked black pepper; then toss with extra-virgin olive oil, lemon juice, whole grain mustard, and piñons. Place the beets on the desired serving plate. Using a microplane grater, grate the fresh horseradish over them, followed by a drizzle of the balsamic vinegar. Garnish with the chèvre, sliced apples, and the reserved beet greens and spicy greens. This is how we serve them at Arroyo Vino, but feel free to add or omit anything you desire. The beets are great by themselves with just sea salt, olive oil, and a little balsamic vinegar. Enjoy!
A Mole APRICOT & PIÑON MOLE
Recipe by Enrique Guerrero, Bang Bite and El Nido Makes 5–6 cups Hot chiles and rich chocolate make this authentic mole sauce perfect for grilled meats. Mexican chocolate adds an intriguing complexity to the smoky, savory sauce. 2 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded 2 dried pasilla chiles (also known as chiles negros), stemmed and seeded 2 dried cascabel chiles, stemmed and seeded 2 dried chipotle chiles, stemmed and seeded 2 dried New Mexico native chiles (such as Jemez Pueblo, Velarde, or Chimayó), stemmed and seeded 2 large tomatoes, halved 1 1/2 cups hot water 4 cups chicken stock 3 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted 1/3 cup piñon nuts, toasted 1/3 cup dried apricots 1/3 teaspoon cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon cloves 1 teaspoon oregano 1/2 teaspoon cumin 1 1/2 ounces Mexican chocolate, chopped 2 tablespoons fresh breadcrumbs, toasted 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 clove garlic, minced 2 bay leaves Honey, to taste Coarse salt, to taste WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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COOKING FRESH Preheat the oven to 375° F. Put the chiles on a baking sheet and roast until fragrant, about 5–7 minutes. Soak the roasted chiles in 1 cup hot boiling water for 30 minutes or until softened. (You may need to put a small plate on top of the chiles to keep them submerged in the hot water.) Purée the chiles and soaking liquid in a blender. Pass the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer over a bowl and set aside. Purée the tomatoes in the blender. Next, add 1/2 cup of the chicken stock, 2 tablespoons of the sesame seeds, the pine nuts, apricots, cinnamon, cloves, oregano, cumin, chocolate, and bread crumbs to the blender. Purée to a smooth consistency. Add another 1 1/2 cups chicken stock and blend for about 30 seconds more. Heat the vegetable oil in a large pot on medium heat. Add the garlic and the chile purée and cook, stirring constantly, 7–13 minutes or until the mixture has thickened and darkened. Add the tomato purée and continue cooking, stirring constantly, 5–10 minutes or until the mixture has thickened. Add the remaining 2 cups chicken stock and bay leaves and stir. Partially cover the pot with a lid. Cook over medium-low heat for about 60 minutes, stirring occasionally. The mixture should thicken enough to coat a spoon. Remove bay leaves. Season with salt and honey to taste. Garnish with the remaining tablespoon of sesame seeds. Serve with grilled chicken, cornish hens, or other poultry. Note: This mole can be made vegetarian by substituting vegetable broth for chicken broth.
Grilled Stone Fruit A quick and easy way to enjoy the season’s abundance of stone fruit is to toss it on the grill. This takes it up a notch, imparts a smoke flavor, and wows guests every time. Slice small stone fruit (apricots and plums) in half and remove stone. Larger stone fruit (peaches and nectarines) can be quartered. Small chunks can be skewered. Medium heat, around 350° F, is the ideal temperature for getting nice grill marks on the fruit. You don't want to obliterate their nuanced flavors with too much char. About 3 1/2–4 minutes per side achieves just the right amount of softening. Don't douse the fruit with oil. With too much, the fruit will taste greasy and heavy, and it will drip into the coals, 38
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causing flare-ups. Instead, oil an old cloth and hold it with long-handled tongs to rub down the grates; this will keep the fruit from sticking. Sprinkle with sea salt, cracked pepper, and/or sugar to spark the flavor.
GRILLED PEACH SALAD & MINT PESTO By Stephanie Cameron, edible Serves 4 as a side Salad 2 firm, yet ripe peaches 2 teaspoons olive oil 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar 2 cups baby arugula 1/2 pound of Sandia Sunrise Smoked Gouda from Old Windmill Dairy, sliced A few dollops of pesto; recipe below Sprinkle of toasted pecans, chopped Salt and pepper to taste Pesto 1 packed cup of mint 1/4 cup pecans 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped Juice and zest from 1/2 lemon 1/4 cup olive oil 1/4 teaspoon of red pepper flakes 1/4 teaspoon salt Slice the peaches into quarters. In a small bowl, toss peaches with olive oil, balsamic, and just a small pinch of salt. Heat your grill to medium-high heat and brush with some oil. Place the peach slices on the hot grill and cook each side for 3–4 minutes without moving them; near the end gently peek to see how your grill marks are coming along. When grilled, set peaches aside and allow to cool to room temperature. Meanwhile make the pesto. Combine all ingredients in a small food processor and pulse to combine. Add more oil for a smoother pesto, or leave it chunky, whichever consistency you prefer. Toss the arugula with just a little bit of olive oil and a few pinches of salt. Assemble on a platter and arrange with smoked Gouda slices, peaches, dollops of pesto, and a few pinches of red pepper flakes. Squeeze just a bit of lemon on top and serve.
Behind the Scenes at a Santa Fe Institution
LUNCH • DINNER • BAR
Reservations: 505.982.4353 653 Canyon Road compoundrestaurant.com
Owner chef Mark Kiffin plating fresh pasta and muscles for service. Photo by Kate Russell.
COOKING FRESH The Perfect Wood-grilled Rib Eye Steak Š 2017 Cheryl Alters Jamison, adapted from Born to Grill (Harvard Common Press) Serves 4 or more Use a hard wood for grilling, perhaps oak, or a fruit wood, such as cherry, pecan, hickory, or mesquite. Avoid any kind of pine or cedar. The Meat
Four 1 to 1 1/4-pound bone-in Butternut squash and rib eye steaks, 1 to 1 1/4 inches thick, preferably prime grade goat cheese hand pies Kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper Basting Butter 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce Pinch of kosher salt About 30 minutes before you plan to grill the steaks, sprinkle each liberally with salt and pepper, including on the sides. Rub the seasonings into each steak.
Combine the basting butter ingredients in a small pan or skillet. Reserve. Fire up a grill with a wood fire. You will want enough of a fire that you can have a hot zone and a medium-heat zone for all of the steaks. Light the logs and let them burn down long enough to be covered with some ash, but still producing occasional leaping flames. This will probably take about 30 minutes, but keep an eye on the fire. Spread logs and coals as needed to start the steaks over the hottest part of the fire. Grill the steaks uncovered over high heat for about 3 minutes per side. Do not move the steaks or press on them. Tongs work best. (And never use a fork!) When the 3 minutes per side are up, turn and move to medium heat, rotating the steaks 180 degrees to get criss-cross grill marks. Continue grilling for about 3 minutes more per side for medium-rare doneness, or a bit longer. It’s a terrible idea to cook a steak this fine any further than medium. Transfer steaks to a platter or baking sheet. Baste each with a bit of the butter immediately and then again after about 3 minutes. Move the steaks right away to individual plates, or to a cutting board to slice into more servings. Enjoy immediately.
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COOKING FRESH
Smoked honey mint ice cream
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COOKING FRESH type of wood chips is not that crucial with smoking cream because of the short smoke time.
Smoked Ice Cream
Adapted from Max Falkowitz, Serious Eats The slow-burning richness of fresh wood smoke, which is surprisingly easy to produce no matter what kind of kitchen setup you have, will enhance the depth of sweetness in this ice cream.
SMOKE THE CREAM 1 quart cream (we like Rasband) Ice and water 4 cups wood chips; see below Charcoal Equipment: charcoal grill or smoker, 1 large aluminum pan or steel bowl, and 1 medium aluminum pan or steel bowl. Grilling with wood is one of the greatest advantages to cooking over a fire, providing the opportunity to impart a flavor that just can't be accomplished any other way. Fruitwood will be more subtle, oak and hickory impart medium flavor, and mesquite is among the strongest of woods. The
Like charcoal, hardwood needs to be ignited and burning properly before introducing the food. To do this, place the wood on top of some hot coals and let it burn until it's no longer flaming and is producing smoke. Soak wood chips for 30 minutes prior to smoking. Fill large aluminum pan or steel bowl with ice and then add enough water to fill the gaps. Place medium aluminum pan or steel bowl on top of ice bath and add the cream. Get your fire going, whether in a smoker or grill, and then add a handful of soaked chips to the coals. Place your ice bath and cream in the smoker or above the coals on the grill, close, and allow smoking to commence. As with most smoking, you'll need to keep track of a few things while your cream smokes. Wood chips will burn out every 20 minutes or so, depending on the fire, so you'll need to replenish them from time to time to keep the smoke going. Every time you do, take the cream's temperature with an instant-read thermometer and give the cream a quick stir.
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If the cream starts to heat up, remove it from the smoker and replenish the ice bath with fresh cold water and ice. Smoke for 1 1/2 hours; time may vary depending on your smoker, heat source, and amount of fuel. Remember: you're going to dilute this cream later, so if your cream turns out too smoky, add more plain cream; if it's only subtly smoky, add less. The smoked cream won’t look much different than than it did before smoking. If ash builds up on the surface of the cream, skim top with a spoon and discard. Once the cream is smoked you can make just about any type of ice cream and experiment with sugars, seasonal fruit, nuts, chocolate, caramel, spices; smoke is just one more layer to creating a deep, rich ice cream. Below is just one of the possibilities. A good rule of thumb is to dilute the smoked cream at a 50/50 ratio.
SMOKED HONEY MINT ICE CREAM Serves 6–8 2 cups smoked cream 1 cup heavy cream 1 cup whole milk
1/2 cup honey 1 cup fresh mint, coarsely chopped 1 vanilla bean (or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract) 2 egg yolks In a large saucepan, whisk together cream and milk. Heat over medium heat until cream mixture starts to bubble slightly. Stir in the honey until it dissolves. Remove from heat. Roll the chopped mint leaves lightly between your hands to release the oils before adding them to the cream mixture. Cut the vanilla bean in half and add to cream mixture, leaving the seeds intact. (Alternatively, add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract and stir.) Cover the pot and allow to steep for 20 minutes. Transfer to a large, lidded container. For a subtler mint flavor, strain out the mint and vanilla bean now. For stronger flavor, leave them in. Chill cream for at least 2 hours, or overnight. When cold, remove cream mixture from the refrigerator, strain out vanilla and mint, and whisk in egg yolks. Pour cream into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions. The mint and smoke create an umami flavor, but for a deeper smoky flavor, omit the mint from the recipe altogether.
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Fire in the Belly LIVE-FIRE COOKING, SO HOT RIGHT NOW?
By Candolin Cook · Photos by Stephanie Cameron
According to the Tasting Table, half of 2016’s James Beard nominated establishments for Best New Restaurant contained a wood-fire grill, and eighty percent touted wood-fired dishes. Undeniably, this technique du jour is the restaurant world’s hottest trend. edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2017 46
F
rom Japanese robata to Pueblo hornos to Southern barbeques, live-fire cooking methods have been utilized by virtually every culture and cuisine since the dawn of homo sapiens. Nonetheless, in the high-end dining world, fire is currently all the rage. For the past decade, restaurants that feature open kitchens with wood-burning ovens and grills have been spreading like, well, wildfire. Suddenly gas and dials are passé; steaming and sautéing, banal; simple fire-code inspections, gutless. Food writers have attributed this proliferation to several factors, including a backlash against molecular gastronomy and the influence of renowned fire-centric chefs like Francis Mallman. A popular 2015 episode of Netflix’s Chef’s Table featuring Mallman further stoked the craze’s flames. The series portrays the Argentinian chef—one of Latin America's biggest celebrity chefs—as the quintessential man in the wilderness: primal, masculine, romantic. In one scene, he demonstrates how to smoke a lamb, flayed and staked to wooden poles downwind from a campfire, out in the forest of a remote island in Patagonia. Montages of charred meats and vegetables exhumed from smoldering ash and coal triggered viewers’ salivary glands and chefs’ imaginations. That same year, Bon Appétit selected live fire as its “Technique of the Year.” Last year, the National Restaurant Association ranked open-fire roasting as number three on its “What’s Hot” list. And, according to the Tasting Table, half of 2016’s James Beard–nominated establishments for Best New Restaurant contained a wood-fire grill, and eighty percent touted wood-fired dishes. Undeniably, this technique du jour is the restaurant world’s hottest trend.
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“No, it’s not a trend,” says Chef Jonathan Perno, as he politely suppresses an eye-roll. We are sitting in the Grand Ballroom at the Los Poblanos Historic Inn and Farm in Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, where Perno has been the executive chef for nine years. “When I was training [twenty-five years ago] we learned how to cook with live fire. Every restaurant I’ve ever worked in has used it in some capacity. How can something be a trend when it goes back to the primordial mindset of human beings?” Perno asks. “Well,” I reply, “haven’t you noticed that more fine-dining chefs are making smoke and fire a central component of their menus and dining rooms? Couldn’t this back-to-basics mentality be a reaction against the perceived pretentiousness of modernist cuisine and tweezer plating?” Perno, somewhat irritated that I keep presenting fire as something fashionable, humors me: “Sure . . . that’s possible to an extent. Fire is primitive, you can understand it. If you sit down at a restaurant and hear about how a chef is sous-viding this or using liquid nitrogen on that, you’re kind of like, ‘Whoa, how about you just grill me a piece of meat and do it right.’ A smoke machine or handful of wood chips will never duplicate the flavor or heat of fire. [Molecular gastronomy] gadgets, those are the fads, not fire. I’m not a molecular chef, some of my cooks love dabbling in that world and make some really interesting things and I won’t discourage them, but my whole drive is just to source well, and treat those ingredients with the utmost respect because the people who I source from Opposite: Common Fire's igloo-shaped Le Panyol oven, constructed out of white clay from France’s Rhône Valley.
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are doing the same thing. I think people are much more willing to come back for that kind of food rather than a bunch of foam and gels that have no meaning on a plate. If it’s on the plate you better be able to eat it; if it’s just there for the visual, you need to rethink the dish.” He concludes, “You have to make your food approachable, and I think fire does that. You are naturally drawn toward it.”
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Perhaps no restaurant in the state currently draws diners into that fire more than the chef ’s table at Common Fire in Taos. Here, patrons sit family style just a few feet from the dancing flames of a five-thousand-pound, igloo-shaped Le Panyol oven, constructed out of white clay from France’s Rhône Valley. Chef/owner Andy Lynch conceived of his now year-old restaurant largely around the concept of creating a sense of community by bringing people together around a fire. “Go to any party,” he says, “where does everybody meet up? In the kitchen. Spend time in the outdoors, where does everyone sit? Around the campfire.” Patrons can also connect with the element itself by watching their food being roasted, smoked, and burned (intentionally). Whether you are a cook or a bystander, “fire,” says Lynch, “compels an interaction. We are meant to meet it and ingratiate ourselves to it.” Learning how to tame those flames is an ongoing experiment in trial and error at Common Fire. While Lynch largely curates the menu, he encourages each of his chefs to forge their own relationship with the fire. He explains that there is a “personal reverb between fire master and fire. Some cook hotter than others, they prefer a more direct heat and a faster cook; others cook cooler, slower. It’s a dance. Live fire beckons intimacy; you don’t get that from a gas range.” The afternoon that I visit Common Fire, I dine with Lynch in the seat closest to the oven. Lynch is a natural raconteur with a big personality and a gleaming, bald head which makes him difficult to ignore. Yet I can’t help but be transfixed by the hearth’s glowing embers, crackling wood, and appetizing aromas. I lean into the heat; the oven’s current internal temperature is 750 degrees. Lynch explains that beyond the massive oven, the Las Cruces sourced pecan, hickory, and oak woods, or the quality ingredients, what makes Common Fire dishes exceptional is the ingredient of time. “Lots of people have a pizza oven or grill nowadays, if they want a little fire flavor, but what they don’t have is thirty-six hours to simmer a bone broth to perfection. To slow roast meat on one side of the oven while charring vegetables on the other, to bake bread at 6am with 600 degrees of residual heat trapped in the clay.” The chef on duty, “Smokey” (no, really), brings over slow-braised Kyzer pork and polenta, charred broccolini, and bubbling flatbread topped with house-made lamb sausage, chévre, and oil-cured olives. Everything is excellent; you can taste the fire on the burnt edges of the bread and the time in the succulent pork. But don’t expect to order these exact dishes when you visit, as the menu is constantly changing. “Here,” says Lynch, “you have to always be Opposite, top left, clockwise: Stephen "Smokey" Griffin at the helm of the blazing oven; fire-roasted broccolini; lamb sausage flatbread.
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Top left, clockwise: Oven at the center of Dr. Field Goods; carne adovada pizza; fire roaring in the horno-style oven.
coming in for the next meal, not the last meal.” Like the unpredictability of flames, Lynch wants to keep his diners and staff on their toes. “You know, we play like fire and we roll like fire.” A more consistent fire-cooked menu can be found at Santa Fe’s Dr. Field Goods. Wood-fired pizzas, roasted Brussels sprouts, charred hanger steak, black mussels fire-steamed in green curry, and baked bread pudding are regularly available, along with specials like smoky mole, caramelized seasonal vegetables, and Dutch babies. “Basically anything you’d cook on or in a conventional oven I’ll try and cook in our oven. I’ve had to get my cooks comfortable with the idea that a wood oven is not just for pizza. I’ll fry an egg in there,” says chef/ owner Josh Gerwin. Like Lynch, Gerwin appreciates the ability to 50
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slow cook certain dishes, but he also appreciates how quickly food can cook in direct heat. He says wood selection is key. “Oak is the base for the coals; it’s a hardwood so it can burn for a long time. Juniper helps burst the flames and create color and caramelization,” he explains. Gerwin says that wood type is also important because a log’s smoke and ash are not merely the by-products, but ingredients themselves. They can impart flavors that are bitter or sweet, fruity or earthy. When Gerwin began Dr. Field Goods in 2012, the Santa Fe native knew immediately that he wanted a horno-style oven as the focal point of his dining room. “I take a lot of pride in it because I built it myself,” he says. A bar stands in front of the restaurant’s open kitchen so diners can gather around the fire and feel “a little bit of home.”
Like the other local chefs I spoke with, Gerwin denies a rebellion against modernist cuisine as his motivation to utilize live fire. “I just always loved cooking over a campfire since I was a kid. It’s more fun this way.”
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Back at Los Poblanos, the property is currently in the middle of a major expansion, which will include a new open-kitchen dining room, boasting a 6-foot long by 3.5-foot deep hearth, where a majority of the cooking will take place. Within the hearth will be multiple cooking stations: a coffee table-sized grate for grilling, a chapa for searing, and three rails across the top to suspend racks of meat, with trays underneath to catch the drippings for sauces. “I’ll be doing a lot of moving things around to find out how this animal works,” says Perno, “because it’s its own beast.” Perno is enthusiastic for this new phase of the restaurant, and is hard at work testing recipes. He says the essence of what his team has been doing will continue (“local sourcing and representing the Rio Grande Valley corridor”) but the dishes will be about eighty to ninety percent different from what customers have seen before. “One of my favorite new items is the mole. There will always be a pot of it in the hearth. It needs to be cooked for many hours to days at a time, evolving like a good wine or cheese. Then we will feed the mother sauce into a new batch, like you would a sourdough, to create a complex, layered flavor.” While the new menu isn’t exclusively wood-fired (for example, there will be plenty of pastas and fresh vegetables from the on-site farm), Perno promises, “Everything you read that Francis Mallman does with fire, we’ll be doing that.” For the James Beard nominated chef, the process has been “[revitalizing] to some degree, because it’s allowing me to truly utilize all the training I have under my belt. Fire makes you a better cook, I think. I can’t wait to see all the food.” Perno, Lynch, and Gerwin all point to eating near and cooking with live fire as a source of comfort. Perno posits that in contemporary times of discomfort and anxiety, perhaps people are gravitating more to fire because it is ancient, visceral, and uncomplicated. “Fire-cooked food is the ultimate comfort food,” he says, “something that reminds us of childhood; and that is fine. But as a fad? Nah, I don’t think fire has ever gone away, people are just realizing how much more you can do with it.”
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Oktober Forests
FOR NEW MEXICO, HEALTHY FORESTS MEAN GOOD BEER By Michael Dax
2011 Las Conchas fire. Photo by Craig Allen.
The Nature Conservancy identified a need for a national education campaign to complement its work on the ground, and last year launched the Oktober Forests initiative to highlight the close connection between healthy forests, water, and beer. 52
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O
n the afternoon of June 26, 2011, in a stretch of forest southwest of Los Alamos, an aspen tree fell on a powerline and ignited the Las Conchas fire. Due to high winds, the fire spread quickly, and after only five days, it had become the largest wildfire in New Mexico state history. Over the next month, it would burn more than 150,000 acres. The blaze threatened the town of Cochiti and forced an evacuation of Los Alamos as well as the national lab. The fire was contained by August, but as with many forest fires, the burn was only the first stage of the destruction it wrought. Massive flashflooding brought on by a late summer monsoon also washed ash and debris from the fire into local watersheds, turning the crystalclear waters of the Jemez River into a turbid, gray-brown soup. Albuquerque and Santa Fe temporarily ceased taking water from the Rio Grande, and Cochiti Lake closed to recreationists, due to the excessive levels of sediment that had backed up behind the dam. In response to the fire and in recognition that much of the surrounding forest remained overgrown and at risk of similarly large and destructive conflagrations, The Nature Conservancy (TNC), an international environmental organization that works across North America and in seventy other countries, started the Rio Grande Water Fund. According to Jacquelyn Hall, director of development for TNC’s New Mexico chapter, at the time of the fire, only three thousand acres of forest in the middle Rio Grande watershed, which stretches from Belen to the Colorado border and from Chama to the Valle Vidal, were being restored each year through thinning and control burns. This is in contrast to six hundred thousand acres of forest that TNC had identified as needing restoration work. The Rio Grande Water Fund now has sixty partner organizations and has committed to restoring thirty thousand acres a year over the next twenty years to ensure the watershed will remain resilient and healthy. While this local work is ongoing, TNC identified a need for a national education campaign to complement its work on the ground, and last year launched the Oktober Forests initiative to highlight the close connection between healthy forests, water, and beer. “A lot of people don’t know where their water comes from,” says Hall. “So for us, it’s important to educate our communities about the fact that these mountains are our water towers.”
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Thirty breweries across seventeen states, including five New Mexico breweries, signed on to the campaign in its first year. Hall was heartened by the strong support. “They understand how important it is to their business model,” she says. To be a partner brewery is simple. Participants distribute brochures and branded coasters in their taprooms, and provide additional information and links about the initiative through their websites. Andrew Krosche, head brewer at Chama River Brewery, started homebrewing when he was fourteen and led brewing operations at Marble and Ponderosa before moving to Chama River last year. “Our product is ninety percent water,” he notes. “If you have bad water, there’s nothing you can do to make your product good.” For him, the connection between healthy forests, water, and good
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beer is obvious. “Any impurity in your water source is going to stick out like a sore thumb,” he says. As Krosche has gained more experience in the business, he has delved deeper into water science. “There was one beer that just had something that wasn’t right,” he recalls. “I looked at everything and there was just one thing left. Unfortunately, it’s the hardest part.” Albuquerque’s city water is highly alkaline, with a pH close to eight on a scale of zero-to-fourteen, with seven representing neutral. According to Krosche, this high alkalinity is good for stouts and porters, but not so much for more delicate beers like lagers. To compensate, he has installed a modest treatment facility in his brewery that allows him to add phosphoric acid to soften his water before brewing. Additionally, he keeps a spreadsheet that tracks the ideal water compensation for several different styles of beer and allows him to see how different additives impact the chemical composition of his water for each style. “The difference has been huge,” he says, emphatically. At Blue Corn Brewery in Santa Fe, head brewer Paul Mallory is similarly attentive to the water he uses to brew his beer. “Brewers often like to know where their ingredients come from, so it’s natural for us to care about that,” he says. Mallory can tell when the city is pulling water from the Rio Grande and when it’s pulling from the reservoir in the watershed above town. According to him, water from the reservoir is much softer, and because he does not have a treatment system like Krosche, he finds it a lot easier to add minerals than to remove them. Although the US Forest Service does frequent control burns in the watershed to prevent larger, uncontrolled fires, if there were ever to be a large burn, the ash and debris that would eventually make their way into the reservoir would undoubtedly harden the water and increase its alkalinity, something that would not be good for Mallory’s product. “A lot of brewers who I know, including myself, see the importance of protecting the things we need to make beer,” he says. “It just seems like common sense to me.” Before returning to New Mexico last year, Mallory had been brewing in California for four years, and until heavy snows this past winter alleviated the drought, the state faced a water shortage and imposed strict allotments of how much water breweries could use on a yearly basis. This forced brewers, like Mallory, to be mindful of how they used their number one ingredient, so the idea of water security is nothing new for him. New Mexico’s water supply has been more stable than California’s, but the health of its watersheds will certainly be a determining factor when looking into the future. Although forest fires are often characterized in a negative light, the reality is far more complicated. Following the Big Burn of 1910, which torched more than three million acres across Montana, Idaho, and Washington and claimed the lives of eighty-seven people, the Opposite, top left and right: Blue Corn draft beer; head brewer Paul Mallory, photos by Stephanie Cameron. Bottom: Rio Grande watershed where TNC is working with more than sixty partners to restore forests in order to secure and protect New Mexico’s water supply, photo by Alan Eckert.
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Left: Chama River Brewing head brewer Andrew Krosche, photo by Stephanie Cameron. Right: Forest restored to a healthy state, thanks to the work of TNC-led Rio Grande Water Fund, photo by Alan Eckert. Center: Coasters from the Oktober Forest's public awareness campaign.
Forest Service imposed strict policies to limit wildfires as much as possible. For the next seventy-five years, the agency worked to snuff out every fire as soon as it was detected—best demonstrated by the "10am rule" that required all fires to be extinguished by 10am the day after being reported. However, by the late twentieth century, foresters and ecologists began questioning the science behind these policies, pointing to the fact that many native trees and plants depend on and evolve with fire as a natural part of the landscape. This debate came to a head in 1988 when nearly eight hundred thousand acres of overgrown forests, rife with dry deadfall in Yellowstone National Park, burned over the course of the summer, attracting media attention from across the globe. The common knowledge regarding fires did an about-face, but with many of these older views entrenched within the Forest Service, policy changes have been slower to follow. Budget cuts and the increasing impacts of climate change have not helped. In 1995, wildfire management accounted for only sixteen percent of the Forest Service’s budget; yet by 2015, the agency was spending nearly fifty-two percent of its annual monies suppressing fires, which has made it more difficult for the Forest Service to dedicate time and resources to the kinds of preemptive work that is being done through the Rio Grande Water Fund. Still, it’s a delicate balance. While fire remains a natural part of the ecosystem, the legacy of the previous century’s policies have left behind overgrown forests more likely to produce unnaturally large, destructive fires like the Las Conchas or the Whitewater-Baldy fire that burned 56
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nearly three-hundred thousand acres of the Gila National Forest the following year. These are the fires that TNC hopes to guard against. Despite its efforts, however, thirty-two percent of New Mexico’s breweries remain in watersheds with moderate to very high wildfire potential. This ranks us twelfth out of the fifty states—Idaho holds the top spot, with sixty-eight percent of its breweries standing within these at-risk watersheds. In addition to improving the health of the watershed, TNC touts the positive impacts the project has had for New Mexico’s commercial timber industry and predicts that it will ultimately help create six hundred jobs in the area of the Rio Grande Water Fund and 1,100 jobs statewide. Hall and Krosche are also excited to note the benefits of healthy forests that go beyond the brewing of beer. “The recreation industry is a huge revenue source for New Mexico,” says Hall. “When you have a forest fire, you see a loss in tourism dollars, which greatly impacts the state.” Krosche agrees, taking it a step further to note the close relationship between healthy forests, beer, and New Mexico’s outdoor lifestyle that both its creators and its consumers enjoy. “As a community, brewers really do care about our outdoor areas, our parks, and our forests,” he says. “In our opinion, it’s really the best place to go enjoy our beer. Craft beer and the outdoors are symbiotic.” The Nature Conservancy, www.nature.org, www.oktoberforest.org Blue Corn Brewery, www.bluecorncafe.com Chama River Brewing, www.chamariverbrewery.com
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In the Line of Fire TRUMP'S IMMIGRATION POLICIES AND THE FUTURE OF NEW MEXICO'S CHILE HARVEST By Moises Santos · Photos by Glen Duggins
Now, with the Trump administration's plans to take an even harder stance on immigration, the New Mexico chile harvest could be in danger as more agricultural workers reconsider migrating to the US because of deportation fears and increased xenophobic rhetoric from the new administration. 58
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ew Mexico’s identity derives from its food. The chile pepper, in particular, is a source of state pride. To verify its importance, one only has to consider our rivalries with other states to secure our position as the country’s primary chile producer. (The latest example is our rush to get chiles on our license plates before Colorado.) But few of us stop to think about how chiles make it from the fields around the state to our local supermarkets and restaurants. One group largely responsible for our chile production is migrant farm workers. But over the last few months, President Trump’s immigration policies have intensified fears within migrant farmworker communities and increased anxiety among farmers that New Mexico’s labor-intensive chile crop will suffer. New Mexico’s farming industry has long relied on migrant farm workers, primarily from Mexico, to meet the high demand for labor during the harvest months. Between 1942 and 1964, New Mexico, like much of the US Southwest, relied on the Bracero Program to contract Mexican guest workers to harvest crops including cotton, apples, tomatoes, and chiles. In the 1980s, lawmakers established the H-2A visa program to circumvent labor shortages expected to be brought on by the Immigration Reform and Control Act of 1986. This program allows agricultural workers, when employers deem it necessary to recruit non-US citizens due to labor shortages, to enter the United States and work for no longer than a year. Although visas allow Mexican workers to enter the United States legally, the system can be complicated and costly, prompting many employers to prefer undocumented labor. In recent decades, federal efforts to curb illegal immigration have not deterred farmers from hiring undocumented workers, nor Mexican workers from seeking employment on New Mexico farms. Cecilia Piñon, a labor organizer and former farmworker who picked onions and chiles as a child, recalls the presence of the border patrol in the eighties: “I remember there was immigration [control]. At that time, immigration would come and people would run. But time passed and that didn’t happen anymore. I didn’t see that anymore growing up.” In the last decade, however, New Mexico chile farmers have grown more concerned with labor shortages stemming, in part, from increased immigration control and surveillance. During the Obama administration, the rise in deportations put a lot of families in danger, and made folks, regardless of their visa status, reconsider their seasonal migration into the US for work. Now, with the Trump administration’s plans to take an even harder stance on immigration, the New Mexico harvest could be in danger as more agricultural workers reconsider migrating to the US for work because of deportation fears and increased xenophobic rhetoric from the new administration. Recent statistics from the US Department of Homeland Security already indicate that far fewer undocumented immigrants are crossing the US-Mexico border this year compared to recent years. Aside from planning to greatly expand the already-existing wall along the southern border, President Trump has also proposed an increase in the number of immigration enforcement agents, a
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crackdown on the sanctuary movement, increased federal law enforcement cooperation with local police agencies, and the creation of more detention centers for undocumented immigrants. We are already beginning to see the results of these plans in New Mexico. In February, the US Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) conducted raids in Albuquerque and Las Cruces that coincided with similar raids in other major cities around the country. These raids were conducted at people's places of work and thus fostered fear in the immigrant community. Such raids have not been conducted this intensively in recent years, and were widely perceived within immigrant communities as a sign of President Trump’s call for a harder stance on undocumented immigration. “With Trump, we see raids again,” says Piñon. “They do checkpoints. I hadn’t seen that in a long time. The last time I saw that I was ten years old. I am thirty-eight now, and I’m seeing it again.” As Piñon explains, raids are not the only method that border patrol is employing in her hometown of La Mesa. “A lot of border patrol people come here. And the police are involved. Here on the main street. They meet up and then they walk up and down the streets.” The growing fears within the immigrant community leave some chile growers worried. “We’re very concerned about labor this year,” Glen Duggins remarked without hesitation. Duggins grows chile in Lemitar and harvests roughly 30,000 sacks of chile annually, which he sells mostly to retail outlets in Albuquerque and Santa Fe. “We’d like to have a couple dozen workers for the harvest but the last couple years we’ve been lucky to get a dozen. But, this year, God only knows how many we’ll have.” Chile, unlike alfalfa, pecans, or cotton, is a labor-intensive crop. For Duggins, the lack of available farm workers is by far the main problem facing the chile industry. “Water’s a problem, but we can deal with that. It’s the labor that’s the issue. People in this state are crazy about water, but we can’t raise our food because we don’t have the labor to pick it.” This year, he expects there will be even fewer available workers than in past years, and he has planted less chile accordingly. “There’s nobody to pick it, why plant it?” Duggins, a Republican and Trump supporter who believes a more robust worker-permit system is necessary for New Mexico chile growers to compete against Mexican-grown chile, has tried to hire local workers with little luck. Duggins pays around $3 per sack, which is about forty pounds, and says a good picker can make $800 to $1000 a week during the chile harvest. The work is physically demanding, however, and offers little stability. Local citizens often search for easier, more steady employment. When he has hired locals, he claims, they “don’t last ‘til noon.” In the past, farmers in New Mexico and around the country have had a difficult time getting the paperwork for H-2A visas processed in time for them to adequately prepare for the harvest. “I just don’t understand why we couldn’t make a worker permit system easy,” Duggins says with exasperation. With a better system in place, “I guarantee the employer would walk right up to the gate.” Many
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farmers, like Duggins, hope the Trump administration reforms the H-2A visa system, and possibly extends it year-round. Another labor shortage, whatever the reason, could be damaging to a New Mexico chile industry that, after a long period of decline, has been on a slight rise in recent years. In 2015, New Mexico produced nearly 67,000 pounds of chile—the highest production since 2012—estimated to be worth more than $41 million. In 2016 that estimate increased to $50 million, with nearly 69,000 pounds produced. This growth coincided with an increase in the acres of chile harvested, from 7,700 in 2015 to 8,700 in 2016.
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The resurgence of border patrol intimidation and attacks on the immigrant community threatens to halt this trend and puts the New Mexico chile harvest in danger. More importantly, it endangers the people we rely on to keep the chile industry alive. This should be a concern for all of us in New Mexico, not only because the source of our state pride relies on their labor, but because these communities are an integral part of New Mexico itself.
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The Hog Squeal of the Universe MATANZAS AS A PERSONAL CELEBRATION OF FOOD, CULTURE, AND FAMILY
By Gianna M. May Sanchez
Men with slaughtered pig. Eduardo Otero, 1880-1932. Photo courtesy of Los Lunas Museum of Heritage and Arts.
The matanza tradition began in precolonial Spain and traveled to New Mexico with sixteenth-century conquistadors. This age-old practice was used both in Spain and by settlers and conquistadors in the colonial New World to preserve food for the winter by harvesting pigs who’d had sufficient time to grow to between three and six hundred pounds. The word matanza derives from the Spanish word matar, meaning “to kill.” But a matanza generally refers to a much larger process involving a slaughter, preparation, and feast.
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I
stamped my feet in the dirt at the back of my uncle’s property as cold seeped through my clothes and pinched my skin. The sun had barely risen above the mesa in La Joya, illuminating a now empty wooden pigpen and a smoking pit freshly dug into the ground. It was winter, I was in middle school, and I was spending the day with my relatives for the annual family matanza. My grandmother handed me a burrito made with one of her homemade, white flour tortillas speckled with brown and black burnt spots and filled with charred reddish-brown meat. It was the first, and only, food ready to eat. I hungrily took a bite, savoring the taste and warmth. The meat was fresh, harvested from the pig my uncle had killed that morning. A notoriously picky eater, I paused when my grandma told me it was pig liver. But in that moment, I shrugged off my revulsion, too hungry and enamored by the food to care. For me, matanzas have always been a family affair. Once a year in the winter, one of my relatives invites friends and extended family to socialize, celebrate, and eat. Attendees bring side dishes and desserts, and beer and soda are always available. Country music intermingles with conversation. While adults talk and joke with each other, children run around and play. The focus is as much on the food as it is the family. The matanza tradition began in precolonial Spain and traveled to New Mexico with sixteenth-century conquistadors. This age-old practice was used both in Spain and by settlers and conquistadors in the colonial New World to preserve food for the winter by harvesting pigs who’d had sufficient time to grow to between three and six hundred pounds. The word matanza derives from the Spanish word matar meaning “to kill.” But a matanza generally refers to a much larger process involving a slaughter, preparation, and feast. The meat of many different animals, including goats, pigs, and sheep, can be the centerpiece of a matanza, but in my family we prepare pig. The hog is killed and butchered early in the morning and the rest of the day is spent preparing the meat and making traditional foods like carne adovada, chicharrones, and blood pudding. The traditional cooking method involves digging a pit in the ground, and, early in the morning, starting a fire within its depths over a bed of coal. While the method for preparation may vary, depending on the family or region, a traditional matanza always involves the core element of a fire pit, which will be used to cook parts of the pig throughout the day. At the matanzas I have been to, the meat is cooked over an open pit. New Mexican families, like mine, have used this event as a way to preserve food for the winter, strengthen ties with the community, and provide support for family members going through difficult times. As Adrian Barboa noted recently in the Albuquerque Journal, matanzas have long been a way “for everyone in the community to pitch in, make food to share, and help their neighbors.” The occasion for a matanza varies depending on the community and region. In San Cristóbal, for example, a matanza is held for a community Labor Day celebration. Whichever family hosts the event uses a few of their farm’s sheep or goats for the feast. As J. R. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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Top left: Some of the best carne adovada around can be devoured at the Hispano Chamber of Valencia County’s annual matanza, photo courtesy of Valencia County News-Bulletin. Bottom left: It takes a team of hardworking and dedicated individuals to make a successful matanza, photo courtesy of Valencia County News-Bulletin. Top and middle right: Leo and Bernie's Matanza in Veguita 2010, photo by Dennis Cordova. Bottom right: Leo and Bernie's Matanza 2017, photo courtesy of Gianna M. May Sanchez.
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Logan explained in The Taos News in 2014, this annual matanza continues historical practices of preparing and preserving food for the winter, and provides an opportunity to enjoy time with family and friends while the weather is still warm. In New Mexico, matanzas are commonly used today as a fundraising effort or festival for community members and tourists alike. For example, once a year in Valencia County, the Hispano Chamber hosts the “World’s Largest Matanza” to raise money for scholarships that are awarded to local Valencia County students. Many attendees come from families who have regularly held matanzas, and this event, in part, is a way to celebrate that cultural legacy. At the seventeenth annual Hispano Chamber of Valencia County Matanza this past January, seventeen teams made dishes such as carne adovada, carnitas, ribs marinated in red chile, chicharrones, calabacitas, and green chile stew for a panel of judges and attendees to enjoy. Forty hogs were used to make the food and feed thousands of people. According to journalist Deborah Fox, each team provided a distinct way to prepare these dishes based on family recipes, creating a unique experience based on a shared cultural practice. Preparing the food for the matanza is as much a part of the experience as attending the event. As illustrated by Valencia County’s matanza competition, many of these recipes have been passed down for generations, and often call for unique, family-specific preparation methods that base jobs on traditional gender roles. The act of killing and butchering the pig tends to be reserved for men, while women stay indoors and prepare parts of the meal to cook outside. In my family, the men always kill and butcher the pig. They shoot the animal in the head and then slice open its throat to complete the kill. Ideally, the death is quick, both for the pig’s sake and to ensure the rest of the butchering process goes smoothly. After the pig is killed and its blood collected, the body is placed on a table and wrapped in burlap that has been soaked in boiling water. This is done to soften the bristles on the carcass, which will make the pig easier to shave and prepare. Then, the matanzaneros (those who kill and prepare the pig) work in tandem to shave and clean the pig. The head is cut off and hung on a wire nearby while the pig’s feet are removed and set aside to use in making chile. Fat, still attached to the skin, is stripped from the body to be used for chicharrones. Nearly every part of the pig is used. In my family, the organs, such as the liver, are often the first thing prepared for breakfast burritos. Then, other parts of the pig are used for carne adovada—meat cooked in red chile sauce. After the men finish butchering the pig, they place the meat into the pit to cook, or hand over certain cuts to the women for seasoning and other forms of preparation.
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When I was a kid, I remember harboring a distinct sense of envy and frustration at this gender division. My younger brother could go in the morning with my other male relatives to slaughter the pig, and he would boast about pulling the trigger. Meanwhile, I would be inside, helping my aunt, grandma, and other female family members by chopping pounds and pounds of potatoes or WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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Top: Women, child, and men during pig slaughter. Bottom: Man at Hacienda, El Bosque. Eduardo Otero 1880-1932. Photos courtesy of Los Lunas Museum of Heritage and Arts.
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rolling thick slices of skin and fat in tight circles, to eventually be cooked outside. Women were still a vital part of the process and all attendees contributed to the feast in some way. While a matanza is about celebration and family, a certain degree of morbidity intermingles with the festivities. The pig head is always hung prominently nearby, and reminders about the fresh nature of the meat are everywhere. One year, my grandma made it her mission to make blood pudding. She excitedly talked about its taste, hands covered in red, while mixing a vat of fresh pig’s blood in an aluminum container. My cousins and I spent the remainder of the day daring each other to eat the concoction, which turned black in the oven and tasted like gritty sugar.
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I most recently attended a matanza in January. My great-uncle hosted the event in Veguita, and my husband and I arrived just as people were lining up to eat. It was my husband’s first time at such an event and I was, perhaps, a bit too giddy to show him the severed pig’s head. Large black grills were laden with sliced potatoes as men in camouflage and plaid sweatshirts cooked the meat. Beyond them, a pyramid of beer cans and coolers stood beneath a cottonwood tree. A stereo played a mix of country music and traditional Spanish songs while we greeted relatives and got in line. Old tables were placed in a row and covered with carne adovada, homemade tortillas, beans, potatoes, and desserts, ranging from store-bought cupcakes to traditional arroz dulce and homemade bread pudding. Waiting in line became part of the experience. We filled our plates and small talk permeated each station. People chatted about the NFL playoffs and asked about school or work as they piled spoonfuls of carne adovada on their plates and balanced bowls of beans with cups of beer. After getting our food, we sat with my grandmother at white foldout tables, where the conversation shifted to gossip in both Spanish and English. The occasional clang of a horseshoe interrupted the sound of music playing in the background, while my grandma, who had a faint stain of red chile on her chin, smiled and laughed with relatives, neighbors, and old friends. This combination of good food, reminiscing with family, and celebrating cultural traditions is what a matanza is all about.
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In Our Own Backyard EDIBLE GRILLS BBQ EXPERT CHERYL JAMISON By Marjory Sweet · Photos by Stephanie Cameron
Cheryl Alters Jamison's particular passion is barbecue—“cooking low and slow over smoldering wood.” Smoke is both an ingredient and the essential technique in the process, she says, “adding its resonance and flavor to the food.” 70
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“I
didn’t even really eat meat,” Cheryl Alters Jamison admits. As a kid in the Midwest, she learned to love her mother’s Swiss steak, but that was about it. Beef round, slow-cooked with tomatoes and onions, more or less defined her carnivorous worldview. “I thought ‘barbecue’ was just beef with tomato-ey sauce.” As a teenager, on a southbound family road trip, Cheryl ordered a sandwich in Georgia. “Pulled pork with a thin vinegar sauce,” she says. “I was horrified, at first.” It was 1968. To any high-school kid from Galesburg, Illinois, the sandwich would have tasted exotic. For Cheryl, it was more than just a roadside novelty snack. “The experience made a big impact on me in terms of regional foods.” It wasn’t her first time eating meat, but it was the first time she could connect a distinctive food to a particular place. Cheryl, alongside her late husband, Bill, would go on to author eighteen cookbooks. Eight of those books focus on either barbecue or grilling, four are James Beard award winners, and one of them, Smoke and Spice, published in 1994, persists as an influential text on home barbecue instruction. We are sitting on Cheryl’s quiet stone patio in cool, late March Tesuque sunshine. A kitchen herb garden sits next to a wood-burning oven. One of her beloved hens, Margaux, struts in the nearby coop. An oversized grill and other elements of an outdoor kitchen form one corner of the space. A UPS man arrives to drop off a package. “Am I on time for brunch?” he hollers with a smile. “Lots of eggs today!” Cheryl says, letting out a hearty laugh. It is clear this is not the first time this happy, brief exchange has taken place. The UPS man was delivering a new suitcase. “I figured after 185,000 miles and fifteen years, it might be time to retire the one I’ve got,” says Cheryl. She and Bill wrote and ate their way around the world—literally. In 2009, they published a book called Around The World in 80 Dinners: The Ultimate Culinary Adventure. These days, her luggage isn’t just for clothes: she buys her lard exclusively from Dai Due in Austin and carries it home in her suitcase. Currently, there is fresh duck fat stocked in her fridge. “I used up all the pork fat yesterday making fried chicken for a friend,” she says. Cheryl first met Bill on her twenty-second birthday when she flew from Illinois for an interview with the Oklahoma Arts Council. Bill was the director. “When I arrived, I was expecting some real conservative bureaucrat. Instead, out bounded lively, longhaired Bill. He seemed like a great ‘older man’ to work for. He was all of 33.” Needless to say, Cheryl was hired. The two married in 1985 and would eventually come to be known as the “king and queen of grilling and smoking,” according to Bon Appétit. Until Bill’s death, they collaborated on travel, writing, lectures, and all things food-related. Bill died of complications from cancer in March 2015; he was seventy-three.
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In the eighties, Cheryl worked for the Western States Arts Foundation. She was often on the road for them, raising money and working on various projects. Her work-related travel coincided with the rise of “new American food,” pioneered by now-
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Rack of ribs after three hours in the smoker.
exalted chefs like Jeremiah Tower, Alice Waters, Steven Pyles, Paul Prudhomme, and Larry Forgione. “People across the country were recognizing what you could do with American ingredients,” she says. “I got to travel during that time and found myself eating in all of these incredible places. That was my culinary education.” In 1983, Bill left the art world to pursue travel writing. Cheryl came along for the adventure and the food. Their eating experiences often ended up in the writing. The Jamisons’ travel writing ultimately became known for its attention to regional foods. “One of the most immediate ways to get a sense of a place is to sit down and talk to people about food,” she says. “People will just open up about it. That was a fascinating part of the process to us.” When Cheryl finally left her job with the Western States Arts Foundation, she wanted to write some sort of cookbook, as food had become so central to her interests and her work with Bill. At that time, Florence and Laura Jaramillo of Rancho de Chimayó, the generational family proprietors of the historic property, were looking for someone to do a restaurant cookbook for them. The Jamisons had been eating at their restaurant for years. The opportunity to collaborate was obvious. Many plates of pumpkin flan and carne adovada later, the Rancho de Chimayó Cookbook, a small paperback, was published. The Jamisons had felt their way through creating a cookbook. Bill had his PhD in American history, which guided their approach to travel, eating, and writing from the start. “I learned from Bill what to look for,” Cheryl says. Cheryl is interested in regional dishes, meaning food that is defined by place, not popularity. She gravitates to ways of cooking that speak to tradition, not trend. The Jamisons have always been champions of underrepresented foodways. The Chi72
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mayó book, for example, revealed a rich, historic cuisine that almost nobody outside of northern New Mexico had been exposed to. A few years after publishing the Chimayó book, the Jamisons found themselves in Texas. Cheryl recalls stopping to eat on the road and browsing the uniquely Texan offerings—Tex-Mex, barbecue, soul food. “This would be ripe,” the Jamisons thought. “How to tell the story of Texas food.” They quickly realized how difficult it would be to properly address the subject of barbecue in a compendium-style book. Under a section titled “Recipe for Great Texas Barbecue” they considered writing the following: “Pull out your road map, find your way to Kreuz’s Barbecue in Lockhart and eat up.” They were only half joking. “At the time we believed only a grizzled old pit master could do this,” Cheryl says. “You had to have years of experience.” Would it even make sense to write a recipe for making Texas barbecue at home? Was anyone going to actually attempt it? Around the same time, Cheryl found herself frustrated with the poor instructions that accompanied a little home smoker she had purchased. The Jamisons were in the Houston area and had seen several ads in Texas Monthly for a company called Pitts & Spitts. She decided to call Pitts & Spitts for advice. It happened to be one of the weekends of the Houston Rodeo and Livestock event, and the only person left at the shop was one of the owners, Wayne Whitworth. “Heck! Please come on over! I’m just so bored here by myself.” The three of them started talking about barbecue. The Jamisons wanted to understand the possibilities of smoking food at home. Whitworth was just excited to meet people who were interested in making barbecue. Within thirty minutes of conversation, Whitworth said, “How about I bring you one of these pits? I’ll drive it to Santa Fe, stay a week and teach you everything I know.” He kept his promise. His wife had always wanted to
Photographer: Janson S. Ordaz
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Top: Rib eye steak going into the wood-burning oven. Bottom, left to right: The perfect woodgrilled rib eye (see recipe on page 40); pork ribs smoked to perfection.
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see Santa Fe, he told the Jamisons.The newly formed friends spent days and nights smoking everything they could get their hands on: ribs, cuts of brisket, even a ten-pound salmon. They tried different temperatures, varieties of wood, and cuts of meat. “Whitworth was our early barbecue mentor and first champion,” Cheryl says. “He would ask, ‘You want to learn how to cook a whole hog?’ and suddenly we were on our way to Memphis in May, an annual BBQ competition.” After their intensive education with Whitworth, the Jamisons embarked on a “barbecue pilgrimage,” primarily through the South, sampling the many regional styles of brisket, ribs, and pulled pork. These collective experiences culminated in Smoke and Spice, first published in 1994. At the time, most Americans thought barbecue simply meant grilling steaks, and they were largely suspicious of meat cooked for hours at low temperatures. Smoke and Spice was one of the first books to take home barbecue seriously. It was wildly successful. The book is now in its third edition, has sold over one million copies, and is used as teaching text at the Culinary Institute of America. “We had no idea when we stumbled into this [that] it would be such a big deal,” Cheryl says. “We just saw it as a way of paying respect to an under-recognized American food tradition.” There is an inherent generosity in Cheryl’s excitement toward food. In her kitchen, she is often cooking for others; in her books, she carefully guides readers through recipes and techniques; and in conversation, she offers stories and details of particularly memorable meals. (“Some ghastly bear paws,” she says, when asked about her strangest barbecue experience.) When I first contacted Cheryl, the last thing she had eaten was “Vanilla Vanilla Strawberry, a flan-like dessert of vanilla sauce and strawberry gel at El Nido.” She says there is nothing she won’t eat or drink—except coffee. One could easily query her on a vast range of food topics. Her particular passion, though, is barbecue—“cooking low and slow over smoldering wood.” Smoke is both an ingredient and the essential technique in the process, she says, “adding its resonance and flavor to the food.” In an era when you can get excellent barbecue everywhere from waterfront Brooklyn (Hometown in Red Hook) to Los Angeles (Bludsoe’s in West Hollywood) to Albuquerque (Pepper’s Ole Fashion BBQ), it is difficult to imagine a time when pulled pork and ribs were rarely enjoyed outside of Texas, Kansas City, and parts of the South. Now, Aaron Franklin is a national celebrity. Bon Appétit included an Asheville barbecue joint alongside highend dining rooms on last year’s “10 Best New Restaurants in America” list. Smoke, traditionally reserved as a pit master’s technique, has found its way into all kinds of restaurant dishes: smoked leek soup, smoked fig-leaf shortbread, and smoked lamb khao soi. To be clear, barbecue itself is not a trend; it’s a tradition and a regional speciality with history. Brooklyn will never compare to Memphis, but in recent years, barbecue has become more popular and more broadly beloved. While Santa Fe may seem like an unlikely origin point for barbecue’s widespread popularity in restaurants and at home, one could argue that the barbecue renaissance started with the Jamisons. www.excitedaboutfood.com
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EDIBLE NOTABLES
PHOTOGRAPHER DOUGLAS MERRIAM BRINGS SANTA FE FARMERS MARKET TO LIFE IN A STUNNING DEBUT COOKBOOK Photographer Douglas Merriam captures the vibrancy and texture of the Santa Fe Farmers Market, one of the country's oldest and most respected farmers markets, in his new Farm Fresh Journey: The Santa Fe Farmers Market Cookbook. Organized by season, the book features two hundred of Merriam’s gorgeous photographs of regional farms, farmers, and the goods they produce, and one hundred recipes he lovingly collected from local growers and market patrons. He tested and retested them for years to create simple, luscious dishes based mostly on farmers market ingredients and their perfect, unadorned flavor. But this is not strictly a regional cookbook; readers can make the most of the simple recipes regardless of where they live. In addition, a series of accompanying essays by travel writer Lesley S. King narrates the journey from farm to market. Through photos, words, and, of course, recipes, the book explores the relationship between farmer, food, and land. Merriam's photos of food and farming give context to the overflowing variety of wholesome, seasonal recipes. In one pair of shots, a massive thunderhead unleashes the summer's monsoons next to a green chile pepper dripping with rain drops. The curling layers of a cut purple cabbage reflect the snaking path of the Rio Grande's tributaries in another matched 76
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set. A farmer's cryptic, handwritten recipe with instructions to "cook all day" is paired with a heroic shot of the resultant dish. Part non-fiction account of the farming life, part photo book, part cookbook, Farm Fresh Journey is the perfect addition to the kitchen or library of anyone who loves healthy, local, and seasonal cooking. The book is only available online at www.farmfreshjourney.com, and on select days at the Santa Fe Farmers Market. A percentage from every book sold goes directly back to the farmers market. The website also includes profiles of seventeen area farmers who Merriam and King followed while researching the book. Douglas Merriam is a photographer with a passion for anything travel and food related. He splits his time between Santa Fe and Portland, Maine, and shoots everywhere in between. As a result, he has an affinity for green chile, lobsters, blueberries, and piĂąon. When not on assignment, he can be found at a local farmers market with his wife, Shannon, and his daughter, Sage, collecting ingredients for their next meal. www.farmfreshjourney.com Above, top: Brothers Kosma and Teague Channing on their farm with harvested carrots. Above, bottom: original beef brisket recipe scribbled down by beef farmer Rick Kingsbury while selling to customers at the farmers market and, on the right, the finished recipe. Photos by Douglas Merriam.
GROW Y’OWN
Be your own farmer
GROW Y ’O
ID HE
I’S RASPBER
RY
WN HOOPED CEDAR RAISED BEDS W ITH SUMME R AND WINTER COVERS GET SET UP, PLANT N OW, AND EAT FRE E FOOD! GROW Y EAR ROU ND!
FARM www.heidisraspberryfarm.com • 505.898.1784
GROWYOWN.COM • 505.466.0393 WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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EDIBLE NOTABLES
Left: Angel Fire mountainside, photo courtesy of Angel Fire Resort. Right: Red River Art & Wine Festival, photo courtesy of the Red River Chamber.
ANGEL FIRE FOOD AND WINE ROUNDUP Angel Fire Resort, northern New Mexico’s premier year-round family vacation destination, is adding guest-chef events to this year’s Angel Fire Food and Wine Roundup. The four-day, western-themed food and wine event, sponsored by Texas-based A Bar N Ranch, will take place August 24–27, offering guests the best in western cuisine, Wagyu beef, fine wines, craft brews, artisanal spirits, and western hospitality with famous chefs, winemakers, brewers, and distillers. Angel Fire, located in the beautiful San Moreno Valley in New Mexico’s southern Rockies, will host the event, which is expected to draw thousands of visitors. The festival will include guest-chef luncheons, cooking demos by top chefs from around the country, Dutch-oven cooking demos, reserve tastings, a Roundup Grand tasting, wine seminars, mushroom hunts, guestchef dinners in private residences, silent auction events, and artisanal spirits and craft brew tastings. In addition, the event includes a Boot Scootin’ BBQ and western dance at the Angel Fire Resort Country Club, a benefit golf tournament, a Bloody Good Bacon Brunch, and a Chuck Wagon Breakfast event. 78
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Chicago’s Meathead Goldwyn; Texan Cowboy Gourmet chefs, Tom and Lisa Perini; and Harry Soo, head chef at Los Angeles-based Slap Yo Daddy BBQ, are just a few of the attending chefs who will lead cooking demos. Food writer and barbeque expert, Cheryl Jamison, will also be at the four-day event. “The Angel Fire Food and Wine Roundup showcases our Western hospitality in a beautiful and relaxed mountain environment,” explains Kate Collins, director of the event. “This friendly and social celebration is ideal for anyone who appreciates the best in exceptional cuisine, cooking demonstrations from top chefs, and wine tastings hosted by professional sommeliers.” SCHEDULE OF EVENTS: Thursday, August 24: • Dinner at the Lodge, complemented by selected spirits Friday, August 25: • Cooking demo and lunch • Wine and spirits seminar and tastings • Reserve tasting and silent auction • Private wine dinners with guest chefs Saturday, August 26: • Bulls-N-Broncs charity golf tournament • Chuck Wagon Breakfast
• Dutch-oven cooking class • Craft beer tasting and lunch • Roundup Grand Tasting • Boot Scootin’ BBQ Sunday, August 27: • Bloody Good Bacon Brunch www.angelfirefoodandwine.com
RED RIVER ART & WINE FESTIVAL Cool mountain air and the Red River Art & Wine Festival provide the perfect excuse to escape the southern heat. The festival brings together some of the most unique and eclectic art of the Southwest. Enjoy fine art, photography, pottery, samplings from New Mexico wineries, a silent auction, music, and more at this annual event held Father’s Day weekend, June 16–17, in Red River’s Brandenburg Park. From rustic painters and creative sculptors to handspun pottery and gorgeous photography, this festival blends art and natural beauty against a breathtaking backdrop of the Red River Valley. Sample exquisite, hard-to-find wines from local wineries. www.redriverchamber.org
Celebrating 65 Years! DIGGING IN-TO COMMUNITY By Natalie Bovis When edible and I first created our video series Digging In, our idea was to bring chefs to farms, and farmers to restaurants. We follow the food from the ground to the plate. Our latest episode took us to Sol Harvest Farm. We loved seeing the rows of green life bursting through our dry New Mexican soil, and the budding friendship between farmer Ric Murphy and Executive Chef Marc Quiñones of MÁS warmed the cockles of our hearts. By the end of our twoday shoot, the two men had exchanged
business cards and created a new business relationship. This is what Digging In is about—supporting the farmers and chefs in our community and helping to build bridges between them. The continuation of these communities is with you, the readers, and the people who watch our videos. When you dine in these chefs’ restaurants, you support their work and that of the farmers they, in turn, support. We hope you enjoy the current episode of Digging In. We sure enjoyed making it! Watch now at: ediblenm.com/diggingin www.solharvestfarm.com www.hotelandaluz.com/mas-tapas-y-vino
GARDEN FRESH! Payne’s Nursery Grows a Variety of Heirloom Vegetables Including a Variety of Hot Peppers and Tomatoes. Choose from our large selection of fresh & organic 2017 seeds available NOW!
Santa Fe’s Nursery Experts! • Locally grown vegetables & herbs • Lots of heirloom tomatoes & peppers • Professional & knowledgeable staff
Happy Gardening! Payne’s Organic Soil Yard ( POSY ) Santa Fe’s Organic Choice for Top Soil • Composts • Mulches Soil Conditioners • Custom Mixes 6037 Agua Fria 505-424-0336 Payne’s South 715 St. Michael’s Dr. 505-988-9626 Payne’s North 304 Camino Alire 505-988-8011
Top: Ric Murphy, Natalie Bovis, and Marc Quiñones. Bottom: Cameraman Walt Cameron with Murphy and Quiñones. Photos by Stephanie Cameron.
www.paynes.com
Get Cultured!
Fermentation Festival second annual SATURDAY, JUNE 24, 11AM — 7PM new mexico
AT THE GUTIÉRREZ-HUBBELL HOUSE IN ALBUQUERQUE
fermentation workshops • chef demos • kraut mob • fermented beverages food trucks • fermented foods and product vendors • museum tours • kid's activities book sales • bike valet • live music by Zoltan and The Fortune Tellers 80
edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2017
Saturday, June 24, 11am - 5:30pm
Saturday, June 24, 11am - 5:30pm Buy your tickets now!
$15 for general admission BENEFITS THE HUBBELL HOUSE ALLIANCE
BACK-TO-BACK EDUCATION ALL DAY • Chocolate From Seed to Bar
• Hot Sauces and Firery Ferments
• Fermented Cocktails - Wine, Beer, and Beyond
• Fermentation: The Natural Anti-Aging Secret
• Raw Fermented Nut Cheese Demo
• Culture Swap
• Innovating with Kombucha
• Culture Petting Zoo
• Sourdough Starters • Kombucha 101 with Kombucha Kamp
• Book Signing with Sandor Ellix Katz, Hannah Crum, and Kirsten Shockley
• Is Your Microbiome Ruining Your Health?
• Kraut Mob
COME AND TASTE THE FERMENTED FOODS & BEVERAGES OF NEW MEXICO • Abbey Brewing Company
• The Kombucha Project
• Oni Noodles
• Algodones Distillery
• Kraut Source
• Planty Sweet
• Barrio Brinery
• Las Nueve Ninas Winery
• Prismatic Coffee
• Bosque Brewing Company
• M'tuccis Market & Deli
• Pristina Natural
• Mahadevi's Tea
• Santa Fe Spirits
• Mi Young's Farm
• Savory Spice
• Mudslide Stoneware
• Silver Stallion Bakery
• My Sweet Basil
• Spellbound Syrups
• Freanna Yoghurt
• New Mexico Hard Cider
• Street Food Instutute
• Gruet Winery
• NM Ferments
• Victor's Home Brew
• Heidi's Raspberry Farm
• Old Monticello Organic Farm
• Whole foods
• Honeymoon Brewery
• Old Windmill Dairy
• And more...
• Bow and Arrow Brewery • Cacao Santa Fe • Coonridge Organic Goat Cheese • Fano Bread Company
sponsored and supported by
WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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#EDIBLENM
ediblesantafe TAG us or use #edibleNM and your pics could be featured here. We always pick a favorite and send them a gift certificate to one of our favorite local joints.
WINNER digandserve Those coals tho. @ciancheestador holding down the grill at the castle. #digandserve #supperclub #supperclubs #popup #popupdining #popupdinner @ediblesantafe #edibleNM #ediblesantafe #ediblegrillparty
eatsilverleaf Big thanks to all of the support that the folks over at @ediblesantafe have given us! Grab one of the magazines around town and read a thing or two about what's happening in the local food world in New Mexico. BTW - they are free! #eatsilverleaf #ediblenm
artichoke_cafe New Happy Hour item! House-smoked Beeler's Pork Ribs with Ancho Honey Glaze #happyhour #artichokecafeabq #chefdavidgaspardealba #weareartichoke #eatlocalabq #ediblenm
thepswkitchen Black bean and sweet potato stew with quinoa, greek yogurt, guacamole, and house made chips #prixfixelunch #thepswkitchen #santafeeats #santafevegetarian #noms #itslunchtime #simplysantafe #newmexicotrue #localisbest #ediblesantafe #ediblenm
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edible Marketplace
LOCAL FINDS
Santa Fe Olive Oil & Balsamic Co.
Barrio Brinery LOCALLY SOURCED
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KINDLY CRAFTED 15 Calle Alfredo, Algodones 505.301.9992 algodonesdistillery.com
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www.santafeoliveoil.com
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SMALL BATCHED
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Santa Fe's source for fine fermented foods. Our lacto-fermented pickles, sauerkraut, and escabeche are hand-crafted in small batches. 1413-B West Alameda, Santa Fe www.barriobrinery.com ∙ 505-699-9812
Source Guide
Your support for the advertisers listed here allows us to offer this magazine free of charge to readers. Thank you!
BANKING
National Hispanic Cultural Center
1200 Trinity, Los Alamos; 77 Rover, White Rock; 301 Griffin, Santa Fe; 2009 Galisteo, Santa Fe; 3674 Cerrillos, Santa Fe; 6700 Jefferson NE, Albuquerque, 505-662-5171, lanb.com
FOOD ARTISANS / RETAILERS
Los Alamos National Bank
EDUCATION & EVENTS Angel Fire Food and Wine August 24–August 28, 2017, angelfirefoodandwine.com
El Rancho de las Golondrinas
Living Spanish village includes a hacienda, village store, schoolhouse, and more with costumed workers. 334 Los Pinos, Santa Fe, 505-471-2261, golondrinas.org
Lavender in the Village Festival
July 15, 2017, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, lavenderinthevillage.com
New Mexico Farmers’ Marketing Association
NMFMA is devoted to supporting farming and locally produced foods in every New Mexico community. 1219 Luisa #1, Santa Fe, 505-983-4010, farmersmarketsnm.org
From the familiar to the unexpected, fall in love with Hispanic cultures through our exhibits and more than seven hundred annual events. 1701 4th Street SW, Albuquerque, 505-246-2261, nhccnm.org
Barrio Brinery
Santa Fe Olive Oil & Balsamic Company
116 Don Gaspar, Santa Fe, 505-992-1601; 109 Carlisle SE Albuquerque, 505-266-6043; 103 East Plaza Taos, 575-758-4136; santafeoliveoil.com
Skarsgard Farms
3435 Stanford NE, Albuquerque, 505-681-4060, skarsgardfarms.com
Santa Fe's source for fine fermented foods. 1413-B West Alameda, Santa Fe, 505-699-9812, barriobrinery.com
Talin Market
600 Andrews, Corrales, 505-898-1784, heidisraspberryfarm.com
LODGING
New Mexico's first craft kombucha company. Find us in locations throughout Albuquerque, Santa Fe, and Los Alamos, 575-425-1460, KombuchaProject.com
20 Buffalo Thunder Trail, Santa Fe, 505-455-5555, buffalothunderresort.com
Heidi's Raspberry Farm The Kombucha Project
La Montañita Coop
3500 Central SE, Albuquerque, 505-265-4631; 913 West Alameda, Santa Fe, 505-984-2852; 2400 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-2428800; 3601 Old Airport NW, Albuquerque, 505-503-2550, lamontanita.coop
Old Windmill Dairy
88 Louisiana SE, Albuquerque, 505-268-0206; 505 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-780-5073; talinmarket.com
Buffalo Thunder, Hilton Santa Fe Inn of the Anasazi
113 Washington, Santa Fe, 505-988-3030, rosewoodhotels.com/en/inn-of-the-anasazisanta-fe
Inn on the Paseo
A charming bed and breakfast located within walking distance to the downtown Santa Fe plaza. 630 Paseo De Peralta, Santa Fe, 505-984-8200, innonthepaseo.com
52 Paso Ranch, Estancia, 505-384-0033, theoldwindmilldairy.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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La Fonda on the Plaza
100 East San Francisco, Santa Fe, 505-982-5511, lafondasantafe.com
Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm
4803 Rio Grande NW, Los Ranchos De Albuquerque, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com
Sarabande B & B
5637 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-348-5593, sarabandebnb.com
Sunrise Springs
If you are looking to simply refresh and recharge or immerse in a transformative experience, we invite you to come rest, relax, and rejuvenate at our tranquil oasis in Santa Fe. 242 Los Pinos, Santa Fe, 877-977-8212, sunrisesprings.com
The Historic Taos Inn
125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-758-2233, taosinn.com
NURSERIES & SERVICES Baca Trees
7933 Edith NW, Albuquerque, 505-899-6666, bacastrees.com
Grow Y'Own
505-466-0393, raisedbed.biz
Osuna Nursery
A family-owned and operated nursery, gardening center, and landscaping company. 501 Osuna NE, Albuquerque, 505-345-6644, osunanursery.com
Payne's Nurseries
304 Camino Alire, Santa Fe, 505-988-8011; 715 St. Michael’s, 505-988-9626; Payne’s Organic Soil Yard, 6037 Agua Fria, 505-424-0336, paynes.com
ORGANIZATIONS
City of Santa Fe Water Conservation Office
200 Lincoln, Santa Fe, 505-955-6949, santafenm.gov/water_conservation
New Mexico Department of Cultural Affairs
505-827-6364, newmexicoculture.org
New Mexico Museum Foundation
The mission of the Museum of New Mexico Foundation is to support the Museum of New Mexico system through fund development for exhibitions and education programs, financial management, and advocacy. 116 Lincoln, Santa Fe, 505-982-6366 ext.100, museumfoundation.org
New Mexico Wine winecountrynm.com
Red River Visitors Center
101 W River, Red River, 575-754-3030, redriver.org
Red River Chamber of Commerce 101 W River, Red River, 575-754-2366
Santa Fe Dining
Santa Fe Dining Inc. owns and operates restaurants including La Casa Sena, La Cantina, Rio Chama Steak House, and the Blue Corn Cafe and Brewery in Santa Fe; and Chama River Brewing and Kelly’s Brew Pub in Albuquerque. santafedining.com
Santa Fe Opera
301 Opera, Santa Fe, 800-280-4654, santafeopera.org
Silver City Arts & Cultural District
The downtown historic district in particular is home to more than a dozen restaurants, murals, and some thirty-plus galleries and artist studios. Murray Ryan Visitor Center, 201 N. Hudson, Silver City, 575-538-5555, visitsilvercity.org
Taos Ski Valley
866-968-7386, skitaos.com
Town of Red River redriver.org
OTHER SERVICES
Wave Riders of the Ancient Way Wellness Center
Offering ancient and modern healing techniques and visionary tools for holistic balancing. Reiki attunements and multi-day retreats also offered. 4018 Ice Caves—1 Mile east of El Morro National Monument, 505-717-7841, waveridersoftheancientway.com
RETAILERS Durans Central Pharmacy
Unique compounding pharmacy, eclectic gifts, and great New Mexican food. 1815 Central NW, Albuquerque, 505-247-4141, durancentralpharmacy.com
Galleria Carnaval
A diverse and eclectic room of expression. The working studio of Standing Feather. 4019 Ice Caves—Hwy 53, 1 mile east of El Morro National Monument, 505-728-9611, galleriacarnaval.com
Next Best Thing to Being There 1315 Mountain NW, Albuquerque, beingthereabq.com
Sarabande Home
Sarabande Home provides one-of-a-kind contemporary gifts, home decor, furniture, and personal accessories. 3845 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-344-1253, sarabandehome.com
WINE STORES Arroyo Vino
218 Camino La Tierra, 505-983-2100, arroyovino.com
Medley.
100 NM-150, El Prado, 575-776-8787, medleyinelprado.com
Center for Ageless Living
Parcht
Garcia Auto Group
Susan's Fine Wine and Spirits
3216 NM-47, Los Lunas, 505-865-8813, nmagelessliving.com 8449 Lomas NE, Albuquerque, garciacars.com
103 East Plaza, Taos, 575-758-1994, parcht.com 1005 S St. Francis, Santa Fe, 505-984-1582, sfwineandspirits.com
Drink Local Guide Algodones Distillery
Ohori's Coffee Roasters
Duel Brewery and Taproom
610 Central NW, Albuquerque, 505-5083330, 1228 Parkway, Santa Fe, 505-5083330, duelbrewing.com
The original specialty, local micro-roasted coffee source since 1984. Along with our fresh beans, we serve espresso, pour-over, teas, pastries, donuts, burritos, chocolates, and more. 505 Cerrillos and 1098 St. Francis, Santa Fe, 505-982-9692, ohoriscoffee.com
New Mexico Hard Cider
Santa Fe Spirits
15 Cll Alfredo, Algodones, 505-301-9992, algodonesdistillery.com
505 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-231-0632, nmcider.com
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Hand-crafted, award-winning spirits made with New Mexico pride! Tours and cocktails
available. 7505 Mallard Way, Santa Fe, 505467-8892; Tasting Room, 308 Read, Santa Fe, 505-780-5906, santafespirits.com
Trifecta Coffee Company
We roast and brew coffee in unique ways, utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our sweet and savory baked goods are made in house. 413 Montano NE, Albuquerque, 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeecompany.com
colombian bistro
now open
tuesday-saturday 11am-8pm
2933 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-433-2795 theshopbreakfastandlunch.com Come in for breakfast or lunch, creative American classics with Latin and creole influences, made from local and organic ingredients.
3216 Silver SE, Albuquerque 505-266-2305, www.ajiacobistro.com Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by a diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. Cultural traditions of different Colombian ethnic groups play a role in our choice of ingredients.
Eat Local Guide ALBUQUERQUE Ajiaco Colombian Bistro
Artichoke Café
Fresh, local, seasonal ingredients, classic French techniques, extensive wine list, private dining, catering, and great atmosphere. 424 Central SE, 505-243-0200, artichokecafe.com
Durans Central Pharmacy
Unique compounding pharmacy, eclectic gifts, and great New Mexican food. 1815 Central NW, 505-247-4141, durancentralpharmacy.com
Farina
Starting with the finest organic flour, our pizza crusts are made by hand and topped with the freshest ingredients, including artisan cured meats. 510 Central SE, 505243-0130, farinapizzeria.com
Farina Alto
Farina Alto offers fresh, creative fare. Gather over a glass of wine, a good story, and a phenomenal plate of food. 10721 Montgomery NE, 505-298-0035, farinaalto.com
Farm & Table
A wonderful dining experience! Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm. 8917 Fourth Street NW, 505-503-7124, farmandtablenm.com
Five Star Burgers
Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA
PREMIUM
Authentic
EAT LOCAL GUIDE LO
Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by the diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. Cultural traditions of different Colombian ethnic groups play a role in our choice of ingredients. 3216 Silver SE, 505-266-2305, ajiacobistro.com
TODAY. A wide selection of sandwiches, entrées, salads, a kids menu, beer and wine. Happy hour 4–6pm every day. 1710 Central SW; 5901 Wyoming NE, 505-821-1909, 5starburgers.com
South Indian cuisine
CA
Il Vicino Brewery
A contemporary Italian trattoria offering authentic Italian wood-oven pizza, entrées, salads, sandwiches, baked lasagna, and more. Enjoy our own micro-brewed ales and home-brewed root beer. 11225 Montgomery NE, 505-271-0882; 3403 Central NE, 505-266-7855; 10701 Corrales NW, 505-899-7500, ilvicino.com
Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm
Rooted in organic ingredients from our own farm and the Rio Grande Valley. Join us at our restaurant, Wed–Sun 5–9pm, by reservation only. 4803 Rio Grande NW, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com
Savoy Bar & Grill
D
Trifecta Coffee Company
We roast coffee and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods, sweet and savory, are made in house. 413 Montano NE, 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeecompany.com
Seasons Rotisserie & Grill
Zacatecas
The Grove features a bustling café experience serving breakfast, brunch, and lunch. Local, seasonal, organic foods, Intelligentsia coffee and tea, beer, wine, and signature sweets. 600 Central SE, 505-248-9800, thegrovecafemarket.com
S O U RC E
Come in for breakfast or lunch, creative American classics with Latin and creole influences, made from local and organic ingredients. 2933 Monte Vista NE, 505-433-2795, theshopbreakfastandlunch.com
Vibrance
The Grove Cafe & Market
L LY
The Shop Breakfast & Lunch
California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Farm-to-table dining from the area's best farms. Wine tastings and happy hour. 10601 Montgomery NE, 505-294-9463, savoyabq.com Oak-fired grill, local ingredients, and the best patio dining in Old Town! 2031 Mountain NW, 505-766-5100, seasonsabq.com
Delicious
Art gallery, vegetarian cuisine, and live music. Open Fridays and Saturdays 11am– 9pm. Sunday buffet 11am–9pm, $20. 4500 Silver SE, 505-639-3401, vibranceabq.com Zacatecas, a real taquería, features recipes handed down from generation to generation with flavors that are true to the history and culture of Mexico. 3423 Central NE, 505-255-8226, zacatecastacos.com
Zinc Restaurant & Wine Bar
A three-level bistro featuring contemporary cuisine with a French flair. Dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails, and tasty bar bites! 3009 Central NE, 505-254-9462, zincabq.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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TRIFECTA COFFEE COMPANY
TAOS DINER I & II Creative Casual Cuisine 221 Highway 165, Placitas 505-771-0695, www.bladesbistro.com Chef and owner Kevin Bladegroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an award-winning wine list.
SANTA FE Anasazi Restaurant
The recently redesigned restaurant and bar celebrates the creative spirit of Santa Fe with a new chic, sophisticated design that complements the building's legendary architecture. Featuring Southwestern cuisine with regional Latin influences. 113 Washington, Santa Fe, 505-988-3236, rosewoodhotels.com
Arroyo Vino
Arroyo Vino, voted a top 100 restaurant in America by OpenTable reviewers, serves progressive American fare inspired by our on-premise garden and local purveyors. 218 Camino La Tierra, 505-983-2100, arroyovino.com
Blue Heron Restaurant
Dining at Sunrise Springs is a unique experience that may change the way you think and feel about food. Lunch, dinner, and Sunday Brunch are now open to the public in the newly-restored, historic Blue Heron Restaurant overlooking the spring-fed pond. 242 Los Pinos, Santa Fe, 877-977-8212, sunrisesprings.com
Bodega Prime
As a restaurant, caterer, and retail store, Bodega Prime seeks to provide a memorable food experience in Santa Fe for locals and visitors alike. 1291 San Felipe, 505-303-3535, bodegaprime.com
Five Star Burgers
Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of entrées, sandwiches, salads, a kids menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4–6pm every day. 604 N Guadalupe, 505-983-8977, 5starburgers.com
Il Piatto
A local favorite since 1996, boasting an authentic Italian farmhouse experience, sourcing its ingredients directly from local farms, dairies, and ranches. Extensive wine list. 95 W Marcy, 505-984-1091, ilpiattosantafe.com
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908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374 216 B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989 www.taosdinner.com Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown, and organic breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine.
Il Vicino Brewery
A contemporary Italian trattoria offering authentic Italian wood-oven pizza, entrées, salads, sandwiches, baked lasagna, and more. Enjoy our own micro-brewed ales and home-brewed root beer. 321 W San Francisco, 505-986-8700, ilvicino.com
La Boca & Taberna
With the feel of a lively European wine bar, La Boca offers modern Spanish tapas, unique international wine selections, and an extensive list of Spanish sherries. 72 W Marcy, 505-982-3433, labocasf.com
La Plazuela at La Fonda on the Plaza
Authentic New Mexican cuisine, award-winning wine list, and impeccable service. 100 E San Francisco, 505-995-2334, lafondasantafe.com/la-plazuela
Loyal Hound
Locally sourced modern comfort food paired with craft beer, cider, and wine. 730 St. Michaels, 505-471-0440, loyalhoundpub.com
New Mexico Hard Cider
505 Cerrillos, 505-231-0632, nmcider.com
Paper Dosa
Paper Dosa brings fresh, authentic homestyle south Indian dishes to your table. These bright and exciting flavors will leave you wanting more. 551 W Cordova, 505-930-5521, paper-dosa.com
Radish & Rye
Farm-inspired cuisine: simple yet innovative food and drinks sourced locally whenever possible. We work closely with local farmers and ranchers to build our menu. 548 Agua Fria, 505-930-5325, radishandrye.com
Red Sage
Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder is perfect for your next romantic night out. Fare rotates seasonally. Enjoy the extensive wine list. 20 Buffalo Thunder, 505-819-2056, buffalothunderresort.com
TerraCotta
A smart, casual restaurant located in a charming one-hundred-year-old adobe.
413 Montano NE, Albuquerque 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeecompany.com We roast coffee, and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods, sweet, and savory are made in house.
Seasonally changing, globally inspired cuisine and an extensive, value-priced wine list. 304 Johnson, 505-989-1166, terracottawinebistro.com
The Compound Restaurant
The Compound Restaurant has a heritage rich in history and regional influences. Chef Mark Kiffin preserves a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution. 653 Canyon, 505-9824353, compoundrestaurant.com
The Palace Restaurant
Santa Fe's premier dining club. 142 W Palace, 505-428-0690, palacesantafe.com
TAOS Doc Martin’s
Serving lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. Patio dining, fresh local foods, awardwinning wines, and margaritas. Try our signature chile rellenos. 125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-1977, taosinn.com
Five Star Burgers
Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of entrées, sandwiches, salads, a kids menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4–6pm every day. 1032 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur, 575-758-8484, 5starburgers.com
Medley
A casual, yet refined, dining experience featuring world class wines and culinary delights inspired by regional American cuisines with a touch of international flair. 100 State Highway 150, El Prado, 575-776-8787, medleyinelprado.com
Parcht
/pärCHt/= the physical condition resulting from the need to drink wine, eat good food, and shop…in Taos. 103 E Plaza, 575-758-1994, parcht.com
Taos Diner I & II
Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown, and organic breakfast,
edible
SANTA FE ®· ALBUQUERQUE · TAOS
ediblenm.com
Special Subscription Offer 1 year for $16 (50% savings) / 2 years for $28 (50% savings) Use promo code: SUMMER at www.ediblenm.com
Our menu is straightforward, yet eclectic, and chock full of favorites made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible. 103 E Plaza, 575-758-8866, thegorgebarandgrill.com
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The Gorge: Bar and Grill
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lunch, and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine. 908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374; 216 B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989, taosdinner.com
GREATER NEW MEXICO Ancient Way Cafe / El Morro RV Park and Cabins
A unique outpost offering great meals from scratch and fresh baked goods. The park offers cozy cabins and 16 RV sites. Located 1 mile east of El Morro National Monument. 4018 Ice Caves Road, Ramah, 505-783-4612, elmorro-nm.com
Blades’ Bistro
Chef and owner Kevin Bladegroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an award-winning wine list. 221 Highway 165, Placitas, 505-771-0695, bladesbistro.com
FALL OF 2017 brought to you by
Greenhouse Bistro
Good food always puts you in a good mood! Fresh, seasonal ingredients provide the basis for a meal that promotes healthy living. 5 Thomas, Los Lunas, 505-866-1936, greenhousebistro.com
Rancho de Chimayo
Serving world-renowned authentic New Mexican cuisine in an exceptional setting since 1965. 300 Santa Fe County Road 98, Chimayo, 505-351-4444, ranchodechimayo.com
Sundance Mexican Restaurant
Homemade Mexican food served in a casual Southwest atmosphere in Red River. Appetizers, Sundance specials, sopapillas, steaks, and lots of combos. Beer, wine, sangria, and wine margaritas available. Reservations recommended. 401 E High, Red River, 575-754-297
The is a celebration of local dining destinations and the bounty of seasonal ingredients grown in New Mexico. Select restaurants in Santa Fe and Albuquerque will prepare a prix-fixe dinner featuring sixty percent or more local ingredients this October.
moveablefeastnm.com
NURTURING COLLABORATIVE CONNECTIONS WITHIN OUR COMMUNITY.
Farmers, food & beverage artisans, food trucks, and restaurants can participate in the Moveable Feast by taking the Measure what Matters assesment.
thoughtfullyproduced.org WWW.EDIBLENM.COM
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LAST BITE
COLKEGAN’S FIRE Serves 1
The mesquite smoked malt of Santa Fe Spirits’ Colkegan single malt whiskey makes for a perfect finish to edible’s “Up in Smoke” issue. Enjoy with a bit of water or try the cocktail below. 2 ounces Santa Fe Spirits’ Colkegan single malt whiskey 1 ounce rosemary simple syrup (recipe below) 1 ounce fresh lemon juice 3–4 shakes Angostura bitters 1 sprig rosemary for garnish Soak top quarter of rosemary sprig upside down in 100 proof alcohol for five minutes. Place all ingredients into a cocktail shaker, shake vigorously for 10 seconds and strain into a rocks glass. Put sprig of alcohol-soaked rosemary in cocktail and light on fire—the fire will go out quickly, but the smoking sprig will continue to enhance the aromas of the drink. Rosemary Simple Syrup To make the rosemary simple syrup, bring 1 cup water, 1 cup sugar, and 3–5 washed rosemary sprigs to a boil. Boil for 1 minute until the sugar is completely dissolved. Remove from heat and let cool for 30 minutes, then strain out or remove the rosemary sprigs. Keep in a sealed container in the refrigerator.
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