edible Santa Fe Winter 2011 by edible New Mexico

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member of edible communities

Winter 2011

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contents

mexican hot Chocolate

p. 9 departments 2

Letter from the Editor

What’s Fresh, What’s Local Kale, Super Green Food

DIY High Altitude Baking by Lorelei Kellog

Brewhaus Spicy craft brews and Wassail by Brad Kraus

Desert Garden Bringing the Outside In

by Travis Chapman and Jill Ettinger

Eat Local Guide

Last Bite Maira Kalman on Michael Pollan’s Food Rules

edible cooks features 6

Edible Traditions San Pasqual by Rocky Durham

My New Mexico Kitchen by Elizabeth Grant

The New Mexico Pantry Stocking the NM larder

Fish in the desert by Andrea Feucht

Coffee 101 by David Alan

Tools of the trade My first knife by Michelle Roetzer

Southwest Table Classic New Mexico Recipes

The Year in Cookbooks Top 10 from 2011

Seasonal Plate Deep Mountain Fruitcake by Cindy Bellinger

Learn it Do it make it A resource guide by Nissa Patterson

special online features More books we love, recipes we couldn’t fit—and more!!

San Pasqual in the kitchen p. 6

Photos: Cover and this page by Sergio Salvador

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Winter 2011

letter from the editor Publisher / Editor in Chief: Kate Manchester

Associate Publisher: Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Art Director Sergio Salvador

Contributors David Alan, Cindy Bellinger Margaret Campos, Travis Chapman Rocky Durham, Jill Ettinger Andrea Feucht, Maira Kalman Felicia Lujan, Cecilia McCord Nissa Patterson, Michele Roetzer Mercedes Romero, Sergio Salvador Elizabeth Grant Thomas

Contributing Editors

You see that San Pasqual, patron saint of cooks graces our cover and we hope the entire issue. We looked to him for inspiration and blessings for this particular issue, devoted to cooks everywhere. I have devoted my entire self and career to food in some form or another for the last 30 years; I have spent endless thousands of hours in kitchens and save a kitchen disaster or two I’ve enjoyed every minute. Producing this magazine has taken me mostly out of the kitchen as I now spend more time in front of a computer, and cooking dinner for my family has become my segue from the workday into family time. I look forward to the pleasure of stopping each day, of unplugging from the endless demands and never ending list of things to do. Cooking something simple and lovely for dinner each day is my truest gift of nurture and love, and has become my daily meditation and prayer for my family. Given my passion for all things food, naturally I want everybody to cook and eat well. In this issue we pulled from our past to make sure you have some classic New Mexican recipes to feed you and yours well through the holidays - we’re talking tamales, fruitcake, Posole and Wassail as well as some high altitude baking tips and recipes that work right here . In addition, we’ve spent the last several months poring over nearly 100 cookbooks that have come our way, and we give you a taste of ten wonderful books in our Best Cookbooks 2011 pages. While there are lots of terrific cookbooks out there this year, this is our short list of books that we’d actually consider buying as gifts or to keep on our over-crowded cookbook shelf. In any case, we hope you’re inspired to gift yourself or a loved one with one of these books – every single one is a keeper chock-full of good ideas, delicious recipes, and information to help us all become better cooks. You can find more books, photos and recipes on our website, and check Edible Radio as we often like to talk with authors and cooks to get a deeper perspective on what makes them tick. We’ve also included a very specific pantry resource guide to help you stock your pantry with all the local New Mexican specialties that make the food here so unique and delicious. For those hard to find items not native to New Mexico—think Spanish saffron, first day harvest extra-virgin olive oil, black truffle butter - we recommend you visit local Albuquerque on-line business Gourmet-Delights.Com for same day or overnight delivery – and free shipping! Also in this issue, a local resource list to help you learn some new skills in the coming year, some ideas to bring the garden indoors for the winter ahead, and a guide to help you choose the right seafood the next time you’ve got a yen for something fishy. If you’re a terrific home or professional baker – we invite you to enter our Chocolate Baking Contest we’ll be hosting at the 2nd Annual Southwest Chocolate and Coffee Fest at the Albuquerque Convention Center March 23-25th, find more details and registration information at ediblesantafe.com . I’ll leave it there for now and let you discover the rest. On behalf of team edible, here’s wishing you all a very healthy, happy and delicious New Year—we’ll see you again in the spring!

Deborah Madison, Amelia White, Kate Gerwin, Christie Green Lorelei Kellogg, Brad Kraus

Ad Design Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

PHOTOGRAPHY Jennifer Esperanza, Lois Ellen Frank, Sergio Salvador, Carole Topalian

web & social media Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

ADVERTISING Kate Manchester

Friday REcipe Ameila White

CONTACT US: 551 W. Cordova Road #511 Santa Fe, NM 87505 info@ediblesantafe.com www.ediblesantafe.com Subscribe • Give a Gift Buy an Ad • LETTERS 505-212-0791 or WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or e-mail us at info@ediblesantafe.com edible Santa Fe takes pride in providing its subscribers with fast, friendly, small town service. edible Santa Fe is published quarterly, spring, summer, fall and winter, by edible Santa Fe, Inc. Distribution is throughout Central and Northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. No part of this publication may be

Kate Manchester, Editor

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Winter 2011

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what’s fresh, what’s local

supergreen

food

Kale is available at its best during winter months from November until March. Exposure to light frost enhances its eating quality, and kale is a super food packed with vitamins and minerals.

Tuscan Kale Salad Serves 6-8 This is a take on a kale salad I have been making since August when the kale came in again, and everybody seems to love it. It’s just as good on day three, maybe better – but really good right after you add crunchy toasted panko and still-hot piñon. I credit three people for this recipe - Amanda Hesser, Heidi Swanson and Melissa Clark all have a variation. This is my twist, which by the way has generated no less than a dozen recipe requests! - KM 8 kale leaves 3 T. pine nuts 1/4 C. unflavored panko bread crumbs 2 T. dried cranberries, currants, chopped raisins, or finely chopped prunes 4 T. grated Parmesan or Asiago

Dressing:

2 T. red wine vinegar 6 T. olive oil 2 t. lemon juice 1 t. salt Lay each kale leaf flat, and use a sharp knife to cut the stem out of the middle of the kale. Once you do this to all leaves, lay the leaves flat on top of each other and then slice across the leaf to create thin ribbons of kale. The ribbons should be no wider than an eighth of an inch or it will be too tough to eat. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and line a cookie sheet with foil or parchment. Spread the panko and the pine nuts into one flat layer. Place in the oven for 2-3 minutes – watching carefully, as everything can burn very quickly. You want the nuts and crumbs to be a nice toasty shade of brown. Remove from oven and set aside to cool. In a deep medium bowl, whisk the oil, vinegar and lemon together, add salt and whisk to emulsify. Add the kale ribbons and toss with your hands to coat well. Add the dried fruits, then the toasted crumbs and nuts. Toss again with your hands. Add the grated cheese, toss again, add more salt or a squeeze of lemon juice if needed.

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in season: CHILE RISTRAS APPLE CIDER PUMPKINS GOURDS APPLES TOMATOES WINTER SQUASH POTATOES YAMS BEETS CARROTS GARLIC ONIONS SHALLOTS RUTABAGAS JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES CABBAGE ARUGULA BOK CHOY JAPANESE MUSTARD RADICCHIO BRAISING GREENS RED & SWISS CHARD

KALE MUSTARD GREENS SALAD MIXES SPINACH SPROUTS & MICROGREENS RADISHES TURNIPS MUSHROOMS DRIED APPLES EGGS GOAT MILK, YOGURT, & CHEESES ORGANIC LAMB AND BEEF ALL NATURAL BUFFALO GRASSFED BEEF & BISON CHICKEN PORK YAK MEAT GOAT MEAT DRIED BEANS DRIED HERBS DRIED JUJUBES CHICOS

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Edible 3.75x4.75_Layout 1 8/18/11 5:25 PM Page 1

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The cutting edge films are followed by local speakers and free local food to keep the conversation going. Not to be missed if you care about the planet. For more information, look for the movie series under the program tab at www.farmersmarketinstitute.org

1607 Paseo de Peralta, Suite A, Santa Fe, NM 87501 505-983-7726

edible traditions

heavenly cooking by Rocky Durham • photo by Sergio Salvador

f you are a cook, a Catholic, a New Mexican, or just have a well-appointed kitchen, it’s likely you own something bearing the image of San Pasqual, the patron saint of cooks and kitchens, sheep and shepherds.

Paschal Baylon was born on May 24, 1540, in Torrehermosa, in the province of Zaragosa, Aragón, in what is now Spain. That day coincides with the Feast of the Pentecost, seven weeks after Easter, or, as it is known in Spain, La Pascua del Espíritu Santo, The Pasch of the Holy Ghost; hence his given name, Paschal. The son of peasants, from the age of seven Paschal worked as a shepherd. Even as a child he showed signs of the profound devotion that would become one of the most prominent features of his character, along with charity, self-sacrifice, and courtesy to others. It is said he even taught his flock of sheep to kneel and pray. When he was 24, Paschal was received as a lay brother among the Franciscan friars of the Alcantarine Reform. In the cloister, his duties were to prepare meals and keep the kitchen clean. He was hesitant to accept such a role; it was hard work, and he feared it would keep him from his prayers. However, Paschal found cooking to be meditative, and discovered that he could be deep in prayer and still prepare food. One legend says that Paschal summoned angels to help him with his chores so that he could pause to pray.

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Paschal died in the town of Villa Real on May 17, 1592. His body laid in state, where it proved incorruptible—a sign that he might be a saint. Paschal was beatified in 1618 and canonized in 1690. Pope Leo VIII declared St. Paschal the special heavenly protector of all Eucharistic congresses and associations. The feast day of St. Paschal (San Pasqual) is celebrated on the day of his death, mostly in his native Spain and in the Americas. (San Pasqual should not be confused with the skeleton in glowing robes that appeared in 1650 to an indigenous Guatemalan man dying from an epidemic fever. The locals dubbed the apparition San Pasqualito.) Regardless of your faith, the story of Paschal Baylon resounds in all of us who love to cook. It’s the story of a person who found a sense of divine purpose simply by preparing food for others. Rocky Durham, native Santa Fean and life-long culinarian is a contributing columnist to New Mexico Magazine, an Adjunct Professor at the Santa Fe Community College in the Culinary Arts Program and an active participants in the Cooking With Kids program. Rocky works closely with local farms, wineries and breweries promoting his homeland through the vehicle of food.

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HISTORIC INN & ORGANIC FARM

Thank you Fodor’s We appreciate it

www.lospoblanos.com

THE

ANTA FE

YMPHONY

...bringing great music to life

Cooking Classes, Restaurant Tours and Fabulous Market… oh my! Something is always simmering at the school — and this year you won’t believe what we’re cooking up. Wonderful new cooking classes and restaurant walking tours — and our market still features the finest New Mexico foods, chile, herbs and salsas and cookbooks. www.santafeschoolofcooking.com

505-983-4511

116 W. San Francisco St.

As the music soars, so will your spirits. www.santafesymphony.org 50 5- 9 8 3- 14 14 www.ediblesantafe.com

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My NM Kitchen

Enchanted Kitchen Essential Tools for Authentic New Mexican Cooking by Elizabeth Grant Thomoas • Photos by Sergio Salvador

Before I ever cracked open a New Mexican cookbook the first item I bought for my new kitchen was a retablo, a small devotional painting, depicting San Pasqual, Patron Saint of Cooking. made tortillas, a sublime payoff for not much work, it’s worth investing in a tortilla press. You place a small ball of masa between the two metal plates, give it a squeeze, and in an instant you’ve got uniform, thin rounds ready to place on a heated comal. Forged from sturdy cast-iron and fashioned in a variety of shapes and sizes, the comal is a rustic “griddle” used to cook tortillas. You can use a nonstick pan to achieve similar results, but if you’re anything like my Mexican mother-in-law, who gifted me my comal, – an oval-shaped monstrosity that straddles the stove’s burners and could easily double as a murder weapon – you will heat your tortillas in this manner, nearly scalding your fingertips when you flip the doughy discs. I have seen beautiful terra cotta tortilla warmers for sale in local kitchen stores, but a clean tea towel, tightly wrapped around your tortillas, will also keep them piping hot.

hen I first moved to New Mexico six years ago I didn’t know my Big Jim from my Anaheim, and I truly didn’t understand why chile was so ubiquitous. “Do you think I can order the green chile cheeseburger without green chile?” I innocently asked my husband. But, like so many transplants, I’ve come to appreciate the subtle differences between smooth, piquant reds and the bite of chunky greens, and with that I’m getting closer to the top of a steep learning curve with regard to New Mexican cooking. Since moving to Albuquerque I’ve tackled a range of dishes in our culinary repertoire, from tamales to homemade corn tortillas, slowly building an arsenal of specialized cooking equipment along the way.

Before I ever cracked open a New Mexican cookbook the first item I bought for my new kitchen was a retablo, a small devotional painting, depicting San Pasqual, Patron Saint of Cooking. Presiding over my simmering pots and pans, he ensures good cooking – and eating – for all. As small as a silver dollar pancake or as big as a dinner plate, tortillas are a cornerstone of the New Mexican diet. Appearing in both flour and corn (including blue corn) varieties, they serve as vehicles for tacos, are used to scoop up green chile stew and beans, and are an integral component of enchiladas. Sometimes there’s nothing better than a piping hot tortilla simply slathered in butter. If you’re interested in making homeedible Santa fe

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There is no greater sight in the fall than huge barrels of chiles tumbling in the afternoon sun. While we New Mexicans tend to roast our chiles in large quantities, sometimes a recipe calls for a single chile or two, fresh from the garden, and it’s at times like these that it’s handy to have a stovetop chile roaster. A metal grate that hovers over your stove’s burner, the roaster quickly blisters chiles, onions, tomatoes, and peppers. You can also use the broiler, a barbecue grill, a cast-iron pan, or gingerly use your fingertips to place them over the direct flame of a gas range – a gaspinducing affair compliments of my mother-in-law – with similar results. When special occasions or holidays grace the calendar, it’s time to make tamales, pockets of masa filled with dizzying combinations of meats, cheeses, vegetables and, in New Mexico, chiles. Homemade tamales are one of my favorite dishes, but a good tamal hinges upon proper steaming. In the past I have created a makeshift steamer using a large stockpot and a strainer that slides into the pot in which the tamales are arranged, elevating them above the simmering water and trapping the steam with a tight-fitting lid, but a tamal steamer has a much larger capacity. Because this is celebration food, intended for a crowd, you’ll be happy to have the extra room. Cazuelas and ollas are essential to the New Mexican kitchen for their multipurpose functionality. Both refer to types of pots used to simmer sauces, beans, soups or stews, often for long periods of time. A cazuela is typically shallow, whereas an olla is usually deeper; both ensure even

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Cecilia’s mexican hot chocolate

cooking, eliminating scorching and hot spots while retaining heat. Micaceous pots (pictured below), which have been utilized in the Southwest for over 800 years, are used to similar effect on the stovetop or oven. Made from clay, all of these vessels impart a unique, earthy flavor that your everyday ceramic Dutch oven simply can’t rival. Every Christmas morning my mother-in-law prepares steaming mugs of chocolate, Mexican hot chocolate capped with marshmallows from Williams-Sonoma, a true cross-cultural experience. Spiced with cinnamon, Mexican hot chocolate is less sweet and has a more complex flavor than what we’re accustomed to in the U.S. Once milk is added to the chocolate “tablets” (Ibarra is a popular brand), a molinillo (pictured at right) is used to whisk it into a frothy beverage. The rings surrounding the base of this wooden “wand” are used to agitate the liquid, breaking up the chunks of chocolate into a smooth mixture. A blender or wire whisk can also do the job, but the molinillo is more fun to use. While not specialized cookware, a heavy-bottomed stockpot, Dutch oven or Crockpot is excellent for making green chile stew or posole, a hominy-based soup studded with bits of pork and chile. A mortar and pestle, otherwise known as a molcajete y tejolote, makes quick work of guacamole, and is also handy for grinding spices. A good blender or food processor is excellent for creating fresh-from-the-garden salsas and blending chiles into a smooth puree; a sieve is useful for straining off bits of blended red chile skin to create a velvety texture. Having made the mistake of touching my eyes or mouth after handling fresh chiles, which brought me to the verge of tears, I now keep a stash of disposable latex gloves in my kitchen. There are some things that San Pasqual can’t guard against.

Elizabeth Grant Thomas is a writer and mother who is soaking up the Albuquerque sun after growing up in Seattle. Her essay, Emotional Eating, appeared in the Fall 2011 issue of Edible Santa Fe. You can read more of her writing at her website, elizabethgrantthomas.com

Serves 4 Ibarra is a popular brand of drinking chocolate that is found at Mexican markets and some area grocery stores. Each tablet is divided into eight “wedges;” two wedges yields one cup of hot chocolate. Follow the package instructions for the proper chocolate-to-milk ratio if you’re using another brand. 4 C. (32 ounces) of whole milk One tablet (8 “wedges,” totaling approximately 3 ounces) of Mexican drinking chocolate, such as Ibarra 4 large, good-quality marshmallows or a dash of cinnamon for serving (optional) In a large bowl, soak the tablet of chocolate in the milk overnight to soften the chocolate; place the bowl in the refrigerator. When you’re ready to prepare the hot chocolate the next day, transfer the milk mixture to a large saucepan. Place saucepan on the stove and heat over medium-low heat until it is warm, stirring occasionally to blend the chocolate into the milk. Once blended, turn the heat to medium and continue to stir until the milk begins to simmer. Use a molinillo or wire whisk to froth the chocolate mixture. Serve with a good marshmallow or a sprinkle of cinnamon atop (optional). www.ediblesantafe.com

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edible DIY

Stocking up Your New Mexico Pantry

Atole Albuquerque Tortilla Company, Albuquerque; 505-344-4011 albuquerque-tortilla.com Leona’s Restaurant, Chimayo, 888-561-5569 leonasrestaurante.com New Mexican Connection, newmexicanconnection.com

Balsamic Vinegar Old Monticello Organic Farms, organicbalsamic.com

Beans: Pinto, Anasazi, Bolita, Tepary Native Seed Search, nativeseeds.org New Mexican Connection, newmexicanconnection.com Rancho Gordo, ranchogordo.com Schwebach Farm, Albuquerque, open August to October only schwebachfarm.com Sichler’s Farm Stand, Albuquerque, open August to October only, sichlers.com

Blue Corn Meal Albuquerque Tortilla Company, Albuquerque; 505-344-4011 albuquerque-tortilla.com Leona’s, Chimayo, 888-561-5569, leonasrestaurante.com Los Chileros, Los Chileros.com New Mexican Connection, newmexicanconnection.com Talon do Gato Farm, talondegato.com

Cheese Coonridge Organic Goat Cheese Dairy, local retail locations or coonridgegoatcheese.com

hen talking about eating locally, many people focus primarily on produce. Buying local vegetables and fruit from the farmers market is a great way to eat both locally and seasonally, but it is certainly not the only way to go, especially here in northern New Mexico. As winter approaches and fresh produce options begin to decrease, the time comes to stock your pantry in such a way that will allow you to thrive through winter on all the local goods our lovely state can provide.

Old Windmill Dairy, local retail locations or theoldwindmilldairy.com

New Mexico offers a variety of dried goods, from locally grown organic flour to item such as chicos, internationally recognized by Slow Food’s Ark of Taste. The ubiquitous blue corn meal shouldn’t be overlooked and nobody does green chile like New Mexicans. We also offer some exotic pantry offerings, including organic aged balsamic vinegar and traditional chocolate elixirs that are sure to add an element of decadence to your winter cooking. The Land of Enchantment is bountiful with both unique and uniquely delicious goods produced year round by our farmers and food craftsmen. From nuts, to cheese, to the ingredients needed to make your holiday tamales, we’ve listed some pantry items unique to NM. Many of the following items are available seasonally at New Mexico Farmers’ markets throughout the state, at La Montanita Coop, Kellers Farm Markets in Albuquerque, Cids in Taos, and Whole Foods locations. You might also visit LocalHarvest.com to find local producers.

Leona’s, Chimayo, 888-561-5569, leonasrestaurante.com

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South Mountain Dairy, local retail locations or southmountaindairy.com Tucumcari Mountain Cheese Factory, local retail locations ortucumcaricheese.com

Chicos New Mexican Connection, newmexicanconnection.com Schwebach Farm, Albuquerque, open August to October only schwebachfarm.com Ta Lin Market, Albuquerque, talinmarket.com

Chiles (Red or Green Fresh, Frozen or Dried Chile and Ristras) Albuquerque Tortilla Company, Albuquerque, 505-344-4011 albuquerque-tortilla.com Chimayo Red Chile Powder Native Hispanic Institute, nativehispanic.com Chile Konnection, chilekonnection.com Chile Addict, Albuquerque , 505-237-9070 chileaddictstore.com www.ediblesantafe.com www.ediblesantafe.com

El Mezquite Market, Albuquerque, 505-877-0980

El Modelo Mexican Foods, Albuquerque 505-242-1843

Leona’s, Chimayo, 888-561-5569, leonasrestaurante.com

Leona’s, Chimayo, 888-561-5569 leonasrestaurante.com

Los Chileros, loschileros.com

New Mexican Connection, newmexicanconnection.com

Peanuts / Peanut Butter

Santa Fe School of Cooking, santafeschoolofcooking.com

Sunland Peanuts, Portales, sunlandinc.com

Schwebach Farm, Albuquerque, open August to October schwebachfarm.com

Pecans

Sichler’s Farm Stand, Albuquerque, open August to October sichlers.com

Del Valle Pecans, email: nmpecanlady@aol.com, 505-524-1867

Billy the Kid’s Nuts Organic Pecans, billythekidsnuts.com Legal Alien Pecans, legalalienfoods.com

The Chile Guy, thechileguy.com

NM Pecan Company, nmpecan.com

Wagners Farms, Corrales, open July to November wagnerfarmscorrales.com

Organic Pecan Company, pecanfarm.com Stahmann’s Farms, stahmanns.com

Chocolate Chocolate Cartel (Eating chocolate and baking chocolate) Albuquerque, 505- 797-1193, chocolatecartel.com

Tularosa Pecan Company, tularosapecan.com

Kakawa House Chocolate (chocolate elixirs, eating chocolate) Santa Fe, kakawachocolates.com

Chile Addict, 505-237-9070 chileaddictstore.com

Pistachios Heart of the Desert Pistachios & Wines, heartofthedesert.com

Xocoatl Red Chile hot chocolate, therealsouthwest.com

McGinn’s Pistachio Tree Ranch, Tularosa, pistachiotreeranch.com

Flour

Pinon

Sangre de Cristo Organic wheat flour and Low-gluten New Mexico red wheat flour

Chile Addict, Albuquerque , 505-237-9070, chileaddictstore.com New Mexico Pinon Nut, newmexicopinonnut.com

La Montanita Co-op locations, lamontanita.coop

* Pinon nuts can be harvested successfully on your own, and can be purchased from a variety of roadside vendors in the fall.

Hojas/Corn Husks Albuquerque Tortilla Company, Albuquerque; 505-344-4011 albuquerque-tortilla.com

Posole Albuquerque Tortilla Company, Albuquerque; 505-344-4011 albuquerque-tortilla.com

El Mezquite Market, Albuquerque, 505-877-0980 El Modelo Mexican Foods, Albuquerque 505-242-1843

El Mezquite Market, Albuquerque, 505-877-0980

Leona’s, Chimayo, 888-561-5569 leonasrestaurante.com

El Modelo Mexican Foods, Albuquerque 505-242-1843

Honey

Leona’s, Chimayo 1-888-561-5569, leonasrestaurante.com

A-Bee Honey, nmhoney.com

Los Chileros, loschileros.com

B’s New Mexico Honey, bsnewmexicohoney.com

New Mexican Connection, newmexicanconnection.com

Buckin’ Bee Honey, buckinbee.com

Santa Fe School of Cooking, santafeschoolofcooking.com

*NM has MANY more producers of honey at local farmers markets throughout the state. Local honey can be found year round at La Montanita, Whole Foods and Cids Market

Local Business Address Directory Albuquerque Tortilla Company (2 locations), 141 Osuna Rd., NW AND 4300 Alexander Blvd., NE Albuquerque

Jams, Jellies, Preserves Dukes Raspberry Ranch, email dukesmom@higherspeed.net

Chile Addict, 325 Eubank Blvd. NE, Albuquerque

Heidi’s Raspberry Farm, heidisraspberryjam.com

Chocolate Cartel, 315 Juan Tabo Blvd NE # A Albuquerque

Leona’s Restaurant, 888-561-5569 leonasrestaurante.com Salman Ranch, salmanraspberryranch.com

El Mezquite Market (3 locations in Albuquerque) 100 98th Street Northwest; 201 San Pedro Dr. SE & 3765 Isleta Blvd SW

Masa

El Modelo Mexican Foods, 1715 2nd St SW, Albuquerque

Mrs. Boots Berries, email bootsberries@cybermesa.com

Albuquerque Tortilla Company, Albuquerque; 505-344-4011 albuquerque-tortilla.com

Kakawa House Chocolate, 1050 E. Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe Santa Fe School of Cooking, 116 W. San Francisco St., Santa Fe

El Mezquite Market, Albuquerque, 505-877-0980 www.ediblesantafe.com www.ediblesantafe.com

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conscious eater

Fish in the Desert

Eat Small to Eat Long: Sustainably Delicious By Andrea Feucht

erfect pink salmon roe pops cool and briny under the tongue like the ocean’s own candy. Over at the far end of that spectrum lies mackerel with decadent oiliness. Both can be sustainable and delicious, the duo of holiest pescatarian virtues. I ate them and an array of other courses at one of the country’s few fully-sustainable sushi restaurants, where every single fish served is not threatened nor overfished.

Second, ask questions. Frankly, if your restaurant cannot tell you the sourcing of any of its fish, consider letting them know you will choose to eat seafood at other places where you can be assured of what you are eating. The Seafood Watch website even has comment cards you can print and keep handy to let a restaurant know that your standards should be their standards.

That restaurant was in Seattle, not New Mexico, but its success despite attention to sustainability is a slice of hope when much of the seafood we eat is facing sharp decline – not in a decade, but now. By choosing to serve fish that might still be around a generation or more from now, the industry tide is turning thanks to the chefs who dig in their heels and hold us all to a higher standard: sushi is merely the tip of the fin.

You will get far with the first two suggestions, but take it a step further: know the sustainable fish by name and fishery region. It takes a bit more homework, but the pocket cards from Monterey Bay Aquarium are a lifesaver. You’ll find out that simply ordering halibut is no black and white case – most halibut (from California and the Atlantic) is overfished and should be avoided, but one type, Pacific Halibut, is coming back and deemed OK.

It goes without saying that we live in a desert, but that means almost nothing for the fish we eat in this age of overnight shipping. The “sashimi grade” fish you eat in Seattle is likely the same defrosted product you’ll eat in New Mexico – both quick-frozen after harvest and packed onto a plane. Beyond sushi lies a whole world of dining, from pale scallops to coralhued salmon. How does one know what to choose? From mercury contamination to overfishing, keeping the issues sorted out can be daunting. Don’t throw up your hands in frustration – take just a few simple steps and ask the right questions to keep eating in a way you can feel good about. First, know that both safety and sustainability issues can be dealt a mighty blow by avoiding big fish. Larger fish are older and accumulate toxins over a lifetime. The heavier the catch, the bigger the blow to future populations – many of the larger fish are being harvested at one or two years old, before they are even old enough to breed. Many diners know that Bluefin tuna should be avoided, yet the scarcity often makes it more alluring. Swordfish also fall under this umbrella, with average catch weights down from 250lbs to under 80lbs in one generation.

Finally, use your local retailers the same way – ask questions and walk away if answers are not provided. Recently, Whole Foods partnered with several organizations to provide a rating on nearly every fish they sell – a good move by a company that provides seafood to so many consumers. Sustainability for the long-term is going to require a few sacrifices – no matter how tasty that Unagi or Red Snapper may be, take a chance and explore new fish that might soon become your new favorite. Included in this “upcoming” list are choices like Pacific sardines, farmed trout, and barramundi. While New Mexicans might not be able to sample local fish in the way that coastal areas can, we can still make choices that will both expand our palates while making sure those critical ocean stocks do not decline to an irreversible tipping point. You can have your oceans and eat your fish, too.

Andrea Feucht has been crafting food tales for nearly a decade. She spends much of her freelance writing time in Albuquerque where she augments the eating with trail running..

See page 14 for Seafood Watch list from Monterey Bay Aquarium edible Santa fe

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Did you know? These items are all organic all the time at

Cafe Pasqual’s

121 Don Gaspar Avenue Breakfast/Lunch 8-3 Dinner 5:30 - 9:30/10:00

Dinner Reservations Recommended 505•983•9340

Sustainable Seafood Information: Why Do Your Seafood Choices Matter?

Worldwide, the demand for seafood is increasing. Yet many populations of the large fish we enjoy eating are overfished and, in the U.S., we import over 80% of our seafood to meet the demand. Destructive fishing and fish farming practices only add to the problem. By purchasing fish caught or farmed using environmentally friendly practices, you’re supporting healthy, abundant oceans. Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch

The Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch program creates science-based recommendations that help consumers and businesses make ocean-friendly seafood choices. Best Choices Arctic Char (farmed) Barramundi (US farmed) Catfish (US farmed) Clams (farmed) Cod: Pacific (US bottom longline) Crab: Dungeness, Stone Halibut: Pacific (US) Lobster: Spiny (Pacific Baja, US) Mussels (farmed) Oysters (farmed) Rockfish: Black (CA, OR, WA, hook & line) Sablefish/Black Cod (Alaska, BC) Salmon (Alaska wild) Sardines: Pacific (US) Scallops (farmed off-bottom) Shrimp: Pink (Oregon) Striped Bass (farmed and wild*) Tilapia (US farmed) Trout: Rainbow (US farmed) Tuna: Albacore, Skipjack, Yellowfin (US troll/pole)

Good Alternatives Basa/Pangasius/Swai (farmed) Caviar, Sturgeon (US farmed) Clams (wild) Cod: Pacific (US trawled) Crab: Blue*, King (US), Snow Flounders, Soles (Pacific) Grouper: Black, Red (US Gulf of Mexico)* Herring: Atlantic Lobster: American/Maine Mahi Mahi (US) Octopus (Gulf of California) Oysters (wild) Pollock: Alaska Rockfish (Pacific hook & line) Sablefish/Black Cod (CA, OR, WA) Scallops: Sea Shrimp (US, Canada) Squid Swordfish (US)* Tilapia (Central & South America farmed) Tuna: Bigeye, Tongol, Yellowfin (troll/pole)

Avoid Caviar, Sturgeon* (imported wild) Chilean Seabass/Toothfish* Cod: Atlantic (trawled, Canada, US) Corvina (Gulf of California) Crab: King (imported) Groupers (Hawaii, US Atlantic*) Lobster: Spiny (Brazil) Mahi Mahi (imported longline) Marlin: Blue, Striped (Pacific)* Monkfish Orange Roughy* Rockfish (Pacific trawled) Salmon (farmed, including Atlantic)* Sharks* Shrimp (imported) Snapper: Red Swordfish (imported)* Tilapia (Asia farmed) Totoaba (Gulf of California) Tuna: Albacore*, Bigeye*, Skipjack, Tongol, Yellowfin* (except troll/pole) Tuna: Bluefin*

Best Choices are abundant, well managed and caught or farmed in environmentally friendly ways.

BC= British Columbia, CA = California OR = Oregon, WA = Washington

Support Ocean-Friendly Seafood

Good Alternatives are an option, but there are concerns with how they’re caught or farmed—or with the health of their habitat due to other human impacts. Avoid for now as these items are overfished or caught or farmed in ways that harm other marine life or caught or farmed in ways that harm other marine life or the environment.

*Limit consumption due to concerns about mercury or other contaminants. Visit edf. org/seafoodhealth

Contaminant information provided by:

ENVIRONMENTAL DEFENSE FUND.

Download or Print the above Seafood Watch guides from Monterey Bay Aquarium. Regional “ok/avoid” lists in pocket and smartphone versions are updated twice a year. For updated list: montereybayaquarium. org (click on “Seafood Watch” under “Save the Oceans”)

OTHER RESOURCES Marine Stewardship Council Certifies wild-capture fisheries for 31 criteria, including sustainability practices and environmental impact. If the fish you buy is from an MSC-certified fishery, you’re on the right track. www.msc.org edible Santa fe

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Sea2Table Big Marine Fish Extinction list Connects chefs with small fisheries—the aque- Low-key but urgently-phrased website aimed ous version of Farm to Table. sea2table.com at getting the word out about declining populations and how that threatens fishermen all over the world. bigmarinefish.com (click on “Atlantic Population Declines”) 14

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Coffee 101

edible DIY

by David Alan • photo by Adrian Baras

If,

according to singer Paul Simon, there are 50 ways to leave your lover, then perhaps there are just as many ways to awaken your beloved morning paramour. I’m talking about coffee, of course, and there are many things to consider. What kind of brewing method is best? What to brew—a blend or a single origin? Whole bean or freshly ground? Arabica or Robusta? Light or dark roast? Does it really matter if it’s locallyroasted coffee? And what do fair trade and direct trade really mean?

Brewing 101 Drip

While the most popular method, and one of the simplest, drip coffee is not entirely without pitfalls. Whether you’re using an electric Mr. Coffeestyle brewer or a manual device such as a Chemex or Hario pour-over, it’s important that you use good-quality water at the correct temperature of 195 to 205 degrees. Grind is also important; use a finer grind for pourover brewers and a medium grind for electric drip machines. Pour-over brewers allow the user to pre-infuse the coffee, and offer more control over water temperature and brewing time than electric machines. In both of these brewing methods the paper filter is sometimes cited as a drawback, because it captures many of the essential oils and particulate matter that make a cup of coffee taste great. Some coffee drinkers also detect a papery taste imparted by the filter. Using a fine-mesh, metal filter will allow more

of the desired flavors to pass through to the finished cup. If you use a paper filter, wetting it before brewing will help prevent the taste of paper in your cup.

French Press

Long a favorite of coffee connoisseurs, a French press allows the user complete control over extraction time. The fine metal filter captures the grounds but still allows fine particulates and essential oils to pass through; a delicate tell-tale sheen of oil droplets can be seen on the surface of a cup of French press coffee. This brewing method produces one of the fullestbodied cups of coffees available, though some drinkers may be turned off by the fine sediment left at the bottom of the cup.

Cold Brew

Also called the toddy process, the cold-brew coffee method uses a coarse grind that’s soaked in cold water. Whether brewed via a fancy apparatus or in a Mason jar and filtered through a bandanna, the resulting liquid is a rich, low-acid concentrate that can be diluted with hot water, cold water or milk. Though initially time-consuming, it’s a convenient way to have coffee at the ready at all times, and a great way to make iced coffee.

Turkish or Ethiopian

For this brewing method, coffee is pulverized into a fine powder and boiled, often with sugar or spices. The resultant brew is pungent and served unfiltered.

Coffee 101

Grind 101

Single Origins versus Blends

Single origin refers to beans from a specific location—broadly speaking, the country of origin, but more specifically, a designated region or farm. Single-origin coffees show off the terroir of the producing region, as well as the skill of the producer. Like wine grapes, they will differ from year to year and from one producer to another, even in the same region. Put simply, a blend is a combination of single-origin coffees. Blends tend to show the signature of the roaster, and are created to achieve a specific flavor profile. While the components of a blend may change over time, the overall flavor profile will not.

Trade: Fair and Direct

One of the most commonly asked coffee questions I hear is whether or not a coffee is fair trade. While this may seem like a simple question, the answer is not. Coffee, being an agricultural product, is subject to the whims of nature and the caprices of the market on which it’s traded. As a result, the price fluctuates dramatically, which, in an off year, can be devastating to coffee growers whose livelihood often depends solely on this crop. This is where fair-trade certification enters the equation. TransFair USA is a third-party organization that certifies coffee based on economic, environmental, and social sustainability. Products meeting its criteria will carry the familiar Fair Trade Certified mark. The premium paid for Fair Trade Certified coffee assures consumers that the coffee is produced sustainably, and that the producers are paid a fair price for their product. Obviously, fair-trade certification is an excellent step toward narrowing the gap between what consumers are willing to pay for coffee and what producers are paid for their product. But it’s not a complete solution. What, for example, are the barometers of quality? If all producers are required to be members of a co-op, what does that mean for the ambitious, talented, unaffiliated grower? And what enforcement mechanisms are in place? For example, using the words “Fair Trade Certified” or the FTC logo without permission from TransFair is a violation of its trademark, but labeling a conventionally-traded coffee as simply “Fair Trade,” while unethical, is legal and not a rare practice. Furthermore, the lack of fair-trade certification does not necessarily mean unfair trade. This is where direct trade enters the picture. Direct Trade is the service mark of Chicago coffee roaster Intelligentsia, and refers to its practice of traveling directly to countries of origin and establishing trade relationships with producers. However, direct trade more broadly refers to the evolution of the efforts by TransFair and other organizations to ensure that a higher percentage of a coffee’s purchase price goes to the grower. Direct trade seeks to eliminate as many of the middlemen as possible between producer and coffee roaster. Of course, most independent coffee companies cannot afford to travel to every distant port of call to establish direct relationships with coffee growers. Instead, they rely on companies like Mercanta to perform this service. Some roasters will have direct-trade relationships with one or a few producers, and supplement those purchases with coffee bought through a reputable importer. What it boils down to is being able to trust the company from which you’re buying coffee. Ask questions and be open to new ideas; just because fair trade certification is a good and accepted idea doesn’t mean that there aren’t other, possibly better, models of doing business.

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There are two main types of coffee grinders available to the home user: the blade grinder, which houses a spinning blade that chops the coffee beans into irregular pieces, and the burr grinder, which features adjustable burrs that create uniform grounds, a necessity for espresso drinkers and the choice of connoisseurs. While those caffeine fiends possessing $100 burr grinders in their homes are coffee drinkers after my own heart, a burr grinder is not a priority for the average Joe drinker unless you’re making espresso or have a considerable budget for gadgets. Consistency of grind effects brewing consistency, which is crucial to espresso, made under pressure. As water travels along the path of least resistance, the coffee will channel and extract unevenly if the coffee isn’t ground and tamped consistently. The most important thing about a coffee grinder is to own one, as grinding coffee at home is the only way to get the maximum freshness from your beans. Coffee begins to lose its freshness immediately after grinding.

Cold brew or French press: Coarse, Flat bottom paper filter: Medium Conical filter: Medium-fine, Espresso: Fine, Turkish: Powder/pulverized

New Mexico Coffee Roasters Villa Myriam Coffee, villamyriam.com Fat Boy Coffee, fatboycoffee.com Red Rock Roasters, redrockroasters.com Java Joes, downtownjavajoes.com Bosque Roasters, bosqueroasters.com New Mexico Pinon Coffee, nmpinoncoffee.com Michael Thomas Coffee Roasters michaelthomascoffee.com Las Chivas Coffee, laschivascoffees.com Satellite Coffee, satcoffee.com Taos Coffee Roasters, taosroasters.com Picacho Coffee, picacho e.com Ohori’s, ohoris.com David Alan has spent his entire working life in the food and beverage business. Alan spent many years in the service of local, independent coffee roasters before being born again as the Tipsy Texan. Visit David at www.tipsytexan.com A local tradition, coffee roasted daily in Santa Fe;

Just for you!

Tea, Coffee, Chocolate and so much more. • Locally Owned and Family Operated • Small Batch Roasting • Specialty Bulk Teas • Fine Chocolates • Large Selection of Housewares & Gifts www.ohoriscoffee.com Original Downtown Location: 507 Old Santa Fe Trail • 988-7026 Flagship Store w/Drive-up Service: 1098 1/2 S. St. Francis Drive @ Pen Road • 982-9692

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DIY

Sugar High:

a guide to high-altitude baking story and recipes by Lorelei Kellogg

igh altitude baking is a phrase that can strike fear in the heart of any baker, especially if they have to modify an existing recipe in order to make it work. But before visions of fallen cakes, rock hard biscuits, flat cookies or other disasters take hold, take a deep breath. High altitude baking is nothing more than chemistry, and chemistry is really nothing more than addition – or subtraction. Before we go into how to adjust for altitude, it is important to understand the processes at work in baking at sea level so you know exactly why you are adjusting your recipe when recreating it at 6000 feet. There are really three things that affect your baked goods and how they turn out: atmospheric pressure, density, and moisture. At sea level, water boils at 212∞ F. However since the atmospheric pressure decreases as you go up in elevation, so does the boiling point of water. By 7000 feet, water boils at approximately 198∞ F. This affects baked goods in several ways. Primarily, the water evaporates earlier in the cooking process, resulting in dry baked goods. Secondly, the air bubbles produced by the leavening agent expand faster, resulting in a coarse texture (think the “hockey puck” outcome). Lastly, as is especially noticeable with cookies, the lower boiling point affects the behavior of your fats, resulting in spreading or falling. This happens as a result of the longer set time required at high altitudes. In order to help the batter set more quickly at high altitude, adjustments need to be made to the density of the dough. The easiest ways to do this are to increase the flour or binding agents (think eggs) and decrease the fats and sugars. Fats and sugars increase the viscosity (or liquid nature) of the batter, resulting in spreading and falling. By decreasing these, you will be left with a batter that behaves. Flour and binding agents such as eggs will increase the stability of the dough by increasing the proteins, the building blocks which provide baked goods with their final structure. When both of these steps are taken correctly, you can guarantee a perfect texture every time. The moisture problem created by the lower boiling point of water at high altitudes can be adjusted in two ways. First, you can simply increase the moisture content of the batter. Many cake recipes call for liquid of some sort, whether it is milk, coffee, fruit juice or a combination. By adding a small amount, no more than two or three tablespoons extra, you can compensate for the moisture problem. The other solution to the moisture problem lies in the temperature. Many high altitude cake recipes call for an increase in the oven temperature. This is primarily to assist with the lower set time at altitude, but can cause problems for the moistness of the cakes. As a general rule, increasing the temperature by 25∞ F is acceptable between 3000 and 5000 feet above sea level, but once you get over 5000 feet, the temperature should remain the same as called for in the original recipe in order to compensate for the increasingly low boiling point of the liquids in your mix.

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High-altitude adjustments

Guidelines below, for Santa Fe area altitude, are for use with nonadjusted, sea-level recipes and are general—the place to start. Often it takes several attempts (note your changes and results) to achieve success at your specific elevation. • Use all-purpose flour instead of cake flour unless a recipe adjusted for high altitude specifically calls for it; avoid self-rising flour. • Decrease baking powder and/or baking soda ¼ to ½ teaspoon for each 1 teaspoon called for. • Increase flour by 3 to 4 tablespoons. • Reduce sugar by 2 to 4 tablespoons. • Increase liquid by 3 to 4 tablespoons and/or add one more large egg. • Prepare pans by greasing, lining with wax paper or baking parchment, and dusting with flour. • For some baked goods, increase oven temperature by 25° F. High altitude baking certainly shouldn’t be intimidating – if you make some adjustments and it doesn’t work out, don’t despair. These recommendations are simply that, recommendations. Depending on the particular recipe you may have to experiment until you get it right. Until then, however, here are a few of my favorite high altitude recipes, and please keep in mind these are adjustments I have made based on living in Santa Fe.

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High Altitude Cinnamon Rolls

Red Chile Brownies

Makes 12 rolls.

Makes 24 brownies.

Dough

10 T. organic unsalted butter 6 oz. unsweetened chocolate of your choice 1-¾ C. organic cane sugar 1-¼ C. flour 1 to 2 T. red chile powder 1 t. cinnamon 4 eggs ¼ t. salt 1 T. vanilla

6 C. bread flour 1-½ t. salt 2 packages active dried yeast 1-½ C. warm milk (110∞ F) 3 eggs, room temperature ½ C. butter, melted ½ C. sugar

Filling

Ganache:

photos by Marie C Fields, Shutterstock (opposite) & Tyler Olsen, Shutterstock (this page)

1 C. packed brown sugar 3 T. ground cinnamon ½ C. butter, softened

1 C. heavy cream 8 oz. bag of bittersweet chocolate chips Preheat the oven to 350ºF and grease and flour a 9x13-inch baking dish.

Combine the flour and salt in a medium bowl and set aside. In a large bowl, combine the yeast and the milk, allowing all of the yeast to dissolve before going to the next step. Whisk the eggs into the milk and slowly add the butter and sugar. Add the flour to the liquid ingredients and knead well, until the dough becomes elastic, about 10 to 15 minutes if done by hand. If you have a stand mixer with a dough hook, this would be a good time to use it! The dough will be fairly stiff initially, so it will require some working.

Melt the butter and chocolate together in a double boiler. Once melted, remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. Whisk the flour, red chile and cinnamon together in a bowl and set aside. While waiting for the chocolate to cool, beat the eggs and salt until light and foamy. Add the sugar and beat until mixed. Slowly add the cooled chocolate to the egg mixture, stirring while you do so in order to incorporate the chocolate fully.

Once the desired consistency has been reached, let the dough rest in a large greased bowl and allow it to rise until it has doubled in size. The trick for high altitude breads is to not overproof them at this stage so keep an eye on the dough! It should take about an hour depending on the temperature, but may take as little as 30 minutes, especially if placed in a warm over to proof, or if it is a particularly hot day.

Fold the flour and chile mixture into the batter until just combined. Pour into the prepared baking dish and bake until just set, so that a toothpick stuck in the center comes out somewhat cakey, about 18 minutes. Heat cream over a low heat until it just starts to simmer at the edges and begins to form a skin. Pour chocolate chips into a heat proof bowl and then pour the hot cream over them, stirring until the mixture is smooth and uniform. Spread over the cooled brownies and sprinkle lightly with red chili powder.

Once the dough has doubled in size, turn it out onto a large, floured surface and let rest for about 10 minutes before rolling it out into a rectangle. The dough should be about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick at this point. To make the filling, simply combine the softened butter with the brown sugar and cinnamon until you have a nice consistent texture and an even color. Spread the butter and cinnamon mixture evenly across the rectangle. Roll the dough into a log and cut into 12 even pieces, then place the rolls into a greased baking pan. Cover, and allow to rise a second time until doubled in size. Once again, be sure not to overproof.

Lorelei Kellogg is a stay at home mom with a passion for food, gardening and goats. She writes a food blog which highlights events at what she refers to as her “urban farm”, i.e. her backyard, and provides a place for her to share both recipes and catastrophes. Her blog can be found at realfoodmama.wordpress.com.

Preheat the oven to 400ºF. Bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes, serve warm. www.ediblesantafe.com

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Making the Cut: My first knife By Michele Roetzer

A cook’s knife is like a carpenter’s favorite hammer or a mechanic’s trusty wrench, held in the same regard as their most prized personal parts: a guy doesn’t touch another guy’s junk, and by no means do you ever touch his knife. Common kitchen protocol is to ask if you can use the knife before you grab for it, or you may find yourself becoming more closely acquainted with it than you ever wanted to be. If the answer is “yes,” you use it, clean it, and carefully and quickly return it to its owner. I began working in San Francisco Bay Area kitchens in 1983 at the age of 14, rolling pasta, washing dishes, and doing general prep work after school. I graduated to my first “white table cloth restaurant” three years later, after some bouncing around in various kitchens of varying degrees of quality. I got the job in the high-end, white tablecloth restaurant through my friend Michael with whom I worked in another kitchen. Michael taught me the basics of cutting in a professional kitchen, such as how to tuck my fingers into the kitchen “claw” position so as to avoid losing a fingertip in the arugula. After lots of practice and Band-Aids, I got faster and more comfortable with a knife in my hand. The restaurant had a knife service that used to come weekly to collect all the “house” knives to sharpen them. Only the new guys used the house knives; the rest had their own knives they carried to work each day in their knife rolls. A co-worker, Jesus, who trained me in the pantry station, encouraged me to get my own knives, as all serious cooks had their own set and could tell you the story of each knife. Soon after, I talked to the owner of the sharpening service and he showed me some samples and agreed to a payment plan on a set of Forschners, a German knife that is popular with butchers. I was so proud of my new woodenhandled set and the accompanying cloth roll that I unrolled it for anyone who would stand still long enough to watch, carrying them with pride as I boarded the BART going to and from work. I was now part of the band of the mostly Hispanic workers walking the streets in the morning and at night, carrying their prized tools. I added to my collection as the years passed and accumulated every cutting implement I would ever need. Part of being a knife owner is learning how to sharpen them; I learned to use a three-way stone and sharpened my knives until I could shave my arms with them. Another co-worker, Pete, used to edible Santa fe

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photo by Johan Kalen

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get his knives so sharp he shaved his face! His knives were always sharp, and because of that his knife cuts were surgically accurate and consistent. About 10 years ago, my sous-chef Apollo brought in a Global knife. Intrigued, I asked to use his knife to cut something, and fell instantly in love with the sleek and sexy shape of the grip. My Forschners felt rather primitive in comparison, so I scrimped and saved and bought myself a Global, the 8” chef ’s knife with a serrated edge. The day I received it in the mail I was catering a party. At the party I took a huge slice out my index finger on my left hand, “the chef ’s finger.” Almost every chef I know has mangled that particular digit in one way or another when the poor piggy stuck out at an inopportune time. I bandaged my finger and reminded myself to be more careful in the future. A few years ago I was in a rollover accident, my car was totaled as it rolled and burst into flames. Inside the car was my knife bag, full of all of my carefully chosen and collected tools. The next day I went to the scene of the crash to see what I could recover. I found the burnt remnants of my knife bag and what remained of my knives, charred and distorted from the heat. I gathered up what seemed salvageable and took them home to see what, if anything, could be done. A friend of mine had some welding torches; she took the bent and mangled metal and heated it while I gently hammered on the blade, then plunged it into water to retemper the metal. It worked on two of the five knives that were still recognizable, my Globals. The Forschners, which I still had from my original kit, burned, as their handles were constructed of wood, rendering them useless. Having no choice but to throw them away, my tears surprised me. I teach culinary arts at Santa Fe Community College now, the lead instructor of a rapidly-growing program. Every semester I teach students who are “only going to take one class”, but who come back class after class, semester after semester, and eventually buy their own knives. I give advice on what to buy, and recommend they get the best they can afford as their knives must be able to withstand continuous use and the occasional drop. I try to instill in them the importance of their tools, to always handle their knives correctly, and watch how they carefully clean and arrange them in their bags. And I always make a point to stand there patiently and “ooh” and “ahh” when they show me their new set of knives. They have that same look of pride with their new knives that I remember having so many years ago.

Some of my favorites: Forschner - A good-quality, all-around knife. They are inexpensive and hold an edge nicely. At home I have a 6” chef knife that is my go-to knife for just about any kitchen job.

MOBILE SHARPENING SERVICE

Global - My hands down favorite, with smallish handles that are better

for a woman’s hand. They are well-balanced and hold a nice edge. You can beat on these and they still cut, which for me is a must.

NEW LIFE TO OLD KNIVES Kitchen Kinves Scissors All Types Carving Tools Garden Tools Reconditioning Repairs

Shun - A beautifully-crafted Japanese knife sharpened to a 16-degree angle, while most other knives are sharpened to a 22-degree angle. The Shuns are crafted of stainless steel with a high carbon content, making the blade very hard and surgically (read: scary) sharp. Michelle Roetzer is originally from El Paso, TX, but grew up in the San Francisco Bay Area. She started cooking at the age of 14 in a family friend’s café and hasn’t stopped. Currently Michelle is the lead instructor for Culinary Arts at the Santa Fe Community College and the Santa Fe School of Cooking. www.ediblesantafe.com

CUSTOM WORK Hunting Knives Chef ’s Knives Kitchen Cutlery Wood working Tools Toolmaking

SERVICE TO YOUR DOOR, OR YEAR ROUND AT THE SANTA FE FARMERS MARKET PAT ROMERO 505-577-4491

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southwest

kitchen A collection of our favorite classic New Mexican recipes from the past 5 years edited by Amy White

Chico Stew Recipe by Amy White, photo by Sergio Salvador Serves 4-6 as a main dish This stew is honestly one of the best things I’ve ever eaten—I cannot recommend this recipe enough. Chicos are dried kernels of sweet corn, traditionally roasted in an horno. Once rehydrated, they taste just like the sweetest roasted summer corn you’ve ever had, intensified. This is serious New Mexican food, completely obscure outside of the state, and even many who grew up here have never tried them. I’ve never seen them in a restaurant, but they are worth seeking out. Chico’s are listed on the U.S. Ark of Taste, a catalog of outstandingly delicious traditional foods in danger of extinction. The recipe is based on one from the PNM cookbook, Cocinas de New Mexico, but I modified it so I could just cook the chicos in a crockpot all day. I used dried whole green chile pods instead of red. I got a big sack of them from Chile Konnection last year, and I’ve been trying to find more uses for them. You don’t see them as often as red, and you almost never see a recipe using them. They’re not quite the same as fresh green, but they add great green chile flavor in stews. 2 C. chicos 10 C. cold water 2 T. oil ½ pound pork, cut in ½-inch cubes 1 medium onion, diced 1 clove garlic, minced 2 t. salt ½ t. dried oregano 4-5 dried green or red chiles, crumbled Soak chicos in cold water overnight, then cook (with the water) in a crockpot all day on low. If you prefer, you can just simmer them on the stove for about 3 hours after soaking. Heat the oil on medium flame, and sear the pork. Add the onion and garlic, and cook until translucent. Add the salt, oregano, chiles, and the chicos with all their water. Cook 20 minutes (or longer, as desired) to blend the flavors and rehydrate the chiles. Serves 4-6 as a main dish. Blogger Amy White is totally obsessed with vegetables and fruits. Amy can be found every Friday online at Edible Santa Fe with her Friday recipe, and on her blog, www.veggieobsession. blogspot.com

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www.ediblesantafe.com

edibleWINTER

New Mexican Chile Verde con Carne and Chile Colorado These recipes were contributed by Margaret Campos, who with her family farms chemical free and owns and operates the Comida de Campos cooking school in beautiful Embudo, New Mexico. Photo by Sergio Salvador.

Chile Verde con Carne Serves 4 as a main dish, or 10 to 12 as a condiment. Since the native chiles in northern New Mexico vary from one micro-region to the next, Campos says to use whatever you have on hand. She serves this green chile stew alone or with beans and a fresh tortilla. 15 medium-sized chiles (5 to 7 inches) 1 T. plus 1 t. lard 1 lb. pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into ½-inch cubes 2 T. flour 2 garlic cloves, pressed or chopped 3 C. stock or broth Over a medium-hot grill or in a 350º F oven, roast the chiles until the skin begins to bubble. Rotate the chiles to roast them evenly – be diligent to avoid scorching. Chiles will change color when they’re done; the green acquires a yellow hue. Place the roasted chiles in a bowl, cover with a damp cloth, and allow to steam and cool. When the chiles are cool enough to handle, remove the skin, stem and seeds (seeds are optional). Chop the chiles and set aside.

Chile Colorado

In a medium-sized skillet, add 1 T. lard and brown the pork over medium-high heat, approximately 10 to 12 minutes. When the pork is done, add the remaining lard and flour, stirring and cooking for two minutes. Brown the flour slightly, and add the garlic. Mix in the chile and stock, and combine well. Lower the heat and allow to simmer 10 to 15 minutes until the broth has thickened, stirring frequently. Simmering longer will bring out the heat in chile, so simmer to taste. If your chile is too spicy, add diced tomato or a tablespoon of milk to cut the heat.

Serves 4 as a main dish, or 10 to 12 as a condiment. This red chile is wonderful on its own served with beans or layered with corn tortillas, cheese and onions to make enchiladas. Margaret Campos also serves it at breakfast to spice up fried eggs. 1 lb. pork shoulder, trimmed and rinsed 4 to 5 garlic cloves, crushed and divided 1 t. salt 1 qt. water 2 T. bacon drippings or cooking oil 1 T. flour ½ C. red chile powder Rub the pork with 2 garlic cloves and the salt. Place in a slow cooker with the water. Set to cook for 6 hours, or alternatively cook in a pressure cooker for 30 minutes. Cool the meat, removing any excess fat, and shred. Set aside the broth. Over medium heat in a 2-quart skillet, heat the bacon drippings or oil and add the flour, stirring to cook for two minutes. Add in the remaining garlic and shredded pork, browning lightly. Mix in the powdered chile, incorporating thoroughly into the meat mixture. Brown ever so slightly, being careful not to scorch the chile powder. Add broth slowly to completely dissolve any chile, lower heat to lowest setting and let it simmer until the broth thickens.

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kitchen Green Chile Chicken Sopa In Loving Memory of Corine Garcia, September 24, 1916–September 3, 2007

By Felicia Lujan. When I was a little girl, my love of the green chile blossomed slowly. I never understood - how could it be painfully good? I remember the trip into Santa Fe at the end of each year to buy green chile for my family. Every year I hated peeling that very chile that would be fresh frozen in preparation for the coming season. When my Grandmother Corine Garcia and her sister Cresencia were alive, they worked hard each year to fill their freezers to the brim. This would ensure plenty of the green chile for our family favorites, and of course for the love of chicken sopa. I loved my grandma’s chicken sopa, which is literally translated “chicken soup.” The dish is not soup at all, but a unique concoction most likely invented right after a regular chile peeling session.

Posole This recipe was contributed by Mercedes Romero in Santa Fe—it is a holiday staple. Photo by Sergio Salvador Serves 20-24

Pick over the posole and remove any debris or stones. Put the posole in a 10-quart pot and cover with cold water by 3 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for about 3 hours or until tender, adding water as needed, until the kernels are soft and begin to burst. Drain the posole and rinse well. Break open chiles and remove the seeds and veins. Put chiles in a medium sized pot and just cover with fresh water. Gently boil until chiles are very soft. Let the mixture cool and, using a blender or food processor, blend the chile and the water to make a paste. In a large, heavy skillet, brown the pork in batches on medium heat. When all the meat is browned, sauté the onions until translucent. Put the browned pork, onion, garlic, and oregano into a large heavy pot and cover with chicken stock. Boil meat gently for 30 minutes. Taste broth and add salt as needed. When the meat is soft, add the chile and posole, and simmer for 20 minutes more. To serve, ladle the posole into heavy bowls and serve with thinly sliced cabbage and radishes, quartered limes, oregano, chopped onion and fresh warm corn tortillas. •

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Serves 6 1 can cream of celery soup 2 oz. sour cream 15 oz. shredded cheese 1 roasted chicken 10 green chiles, chopped 20 chives, chopped 18 corn tortillas 1 oz. extra virgin olive oil 1 can sliced olives

4 C. dried posole 12 dried long red chiles 10 lbs. boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 large onions, chopped 2 large pinches of Mexican oregano ½ head of garlic, peeled and chopped 10-12 C. chicken stock Salt

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Green Chile Chicken Sopa was my grandma’s ingenious twist on a chicken enchilada. A can of cream of celery soup is used in the sopa, thus the special name of this tasty New Mexican treat. The sopa is made up of three layers of corn tortillas, shredded chicken and cheese, and a mixture of sour cream, cream of celery soup, chives and fresh green chiles. The layered treat is then topped with a final layer of cheese and baked for one hour on 350ºF or until the edges begin to brown. One taste of this dish is guaranteed to have you rushing autumn too!

In a large mixing bowl combine soup, sour cream, and 2 oz. of the cheese. Mix well. Remove the skin from the chicken and discard. Remove the meat from the chicken and shred with a fork. Add shredded chicken and green chiles to soup mixture. Add half the chives to mixture and stir. Set remaining chives aside for topping. Cover and refrigerate. Preheat oven to 350º F. Heat olive oil on medium heat, and cook each corn tortilla on both sides for a few seconds. Stack cooked tortillas and cover with a piece of plastic wrap. In a large square casserole dish, start the first layer. Using six tortillas, completely cover the bottom. Cover the tortillas with one inch of the soup mixture. Sprinkle 1 oz. of shredded cheese on the layer. Repeat two more layers, and then top the chicken sopa with a final layer of remaining cheese. Cover with foil and bake 45 minutes, or until the edges brown. Cut into squares and garnish with sliced olives and chives. www.ediblesantafe.com

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Christmas Tamales This recipe was contributed by Mercedes Romero in Santa Fe – it is a holiday staple for her family, and thousands of New Mexican families. Photo by Jennifer Esperanza. It’s a good idea to start the day before, get everything cooked and prepped, then assemble with family the next day. Makes 5-6 dozen tamales.

Masa (Cornmeal Mixture): 6 C. masa harina* 3-½ C. warm water 2 C. lard 2 t. salt

Combine the masa harina and water in a large mixing bowl to make masa. Set aside. Cream the lard and salt in a medium-sized mixing bowl using a mixer at medium speed. Add the creamed lard to the masa and mix well. *Masa harina is available in the cereal section of most grocery stores.

Red Chile:

15 large dried New Mexico red chiles 4 to 5 garlic cloves 2 t. ground cumin 1 t. salt 2 t. all-purpose flour 2 t. olive oil or melted shortening

Chile Con Carne Para Tamales (Chile-Meat Filling):

Note: When working with chiles, use rubber gloves to protect your 1-½ lbs. pork shoulder, stewed and shredded skin, and avoid contact with your eyes. Wash hands thoroughly 2 T. lard with soap and water to remove all of the chile oils. ½ C. Red Chile (see recipe) Preheat oven to 350° F. Remove stems and seeds from dried chile 2 C. meat broth peppers. Place peppers in a single layer on a baking sheet. Roast ½ t. salt for 2 to 5 minutes, or until you smell a sweet roasted aroma, watch¼ t. cumin ing to avoid burning. In a shallow pan, pour in just enough boiling water to cover the chiles, then let sit for about 30 minutes or until ½ t. garlic salt Pinch of oregano cool.

Put chiles and 2-½ cups of the soaking water into a blender (save Combine meat and lard in a large skillet and fry on medium heat the remaining soaking water). Add garlic, cumin and salt. Cover until browned. Add the chile, broth and seasonings to meat. Cook at medium heat for approximately 30 minutes, stirring constantly and blend until smooth. until the mixture has thickened. Taste and adjust seasoning. In a 2-quart saucepan, stir flour into oil or melted shortening over medium heat until browned. Carefully stir in blended chile mix- Assembly: ture. Simmer uncovered for 5 to 10 minutes or until slightly thick- 2-3 packages corn husks ened. If sauce gets too thick, stir in up to 1 cup of the reserved Rinse corn husks and soak in warm water until pliable. soaking water to get your desired consistency. Spread the center portion of each husk with 2 tablespoons of masa. Top with 1 tablespoon of chile-meat filling. Fold the sides of the husk toward the center, the bottom of the husk up, and the top down. Tie each tamale with a corn husk strip. Pour 2 inches water into a large steamer. Arrange tamales on a rack in steamer above the water level. Steam tamales for 45 minutes. www.ediblesantafe.com

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kitchen Vegetarian Green Chile Sauce 12 oz. fresh green chiles 2-½ qts. water 1 can diced tomatoes 1 t. dried oregano ½ t. ground cumin 1 t. granulated garlic salt 2 T. butter ¾ large carrot, diced 4 ribs celery, diced 1 small onion, diced ¾ C. mushrooms, sliced 1 T. fresh garlic, minced ½ C. water ¾ C. all-purpose flour Place all filling ingredients in a standing mixer with paddle attachment and mix until it has a dough-like consistency. Roast the chiles over a flame until the skin is charred and blistered. While still hot, place the chiles in a paper bag, close tight, and let cool. Peel skin off chiles. Make a lengthwise slit on one side of each chile, scrape out the seeds, and stuff with cheese mixture. Place corn chips in blender or food processor and process into small crumbs. In a large bowl, mix cornmeal, flour, eggs, and beer with a fork until combined. Add enough water so that batter has a smooth texture; do not over-mix. Dip chiles in cornmeal, then roll in corn chip crumbs until well coated.

Chile Rellenos This recipe was contributed by Doc Martin’s at the Historic Taos Inn. Photo by Sergio Salvador

Pour an inch of vegetable cooking oil into a deep skillet and heat to 350º F. Fry chiles, turning to cook evenly, until crispy brown. Place finished chiles side by side in a baking pan big enough to hold all without overlapping.

Serves 6 as a main dish or 12 as an appetizer 12 medium-size Anaheim chiles Vegetable oil for frying Sour cream and cilantro for serving

For the sauce, combine chiles, water, tomatoes, oregano, cumin, and garlic salt in a large pot. Bring to a boil. Heat butter in a skillet over medium heat, and sauté carrot, celery, onion, mushrooms, and fresh garlic. In another skillet on medium heat, cook water and flour, stirring constantly, until it has the consistency of pancake batter. When the chile-tomato mix is boiling hard, gradually add the flour mixture while stirring with a whisk. Reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Add sautéed vegetables and simmer another 5 minutes.

Filling 1 red onion, finely diced 1 bunch of cilantro, stemmed & chopped finely 1 T. ground cumin 2-½ C. cheddar cheese, shredded 2-½ C. jack cheese, shredded

Drizzle chile sauce over rellenos, and serve with a dollop of sour cream and a garnish of cilantro.

Batter 2 C. blue corn meal 1 C. all-purpose flour 2 eggs 1 beer (12 oz. Corona or Carta Blanca) Water 1 large bag of yellow corn chips

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Green Chile Apple Pie This recipe was contributed by Amy White. Photo by Sergio Salvador Serves 6-8. Green chile apple pie is a New Mexico classic, and everyone makes it a little differently – I couldn’t reveal anyone’s secret recipe, so I made up my own. Cooking the apples before putting them into the pie allows the green chile flavor to infuse more thoroughly, and eliminates the gap between the filling and the top crust that forms when the fruit shrinks during cooking. 6 ripe apples 2 T. butter ½ to 1 C. chopped green chile ¾ C. sugar 1/8 t. salt 1 t. cinnamon ½ t. nutmeg ½ C. cheddar cheese, grated 2 pre-made pie crusts Preheat oven to 375° F. Core and slice apples ¼ to ½ inch thick. Heat butter in a large skillet on medium heat until fragrant and sizzling. Add apples and toss to coat, cover tightly and cook, stirring frequently until they are tender but still slightly crunchy, about 5 minutes. Stir in green chile, sugar, salt and spices, and cook on high heat about 5 more minutes, until the juices thicken. Lay the bottom crust in a 9” pie pan and sprinkle cheese over the bottom. Pour in the apple mixture. Lay the top crust over and seal by crimping the edges. Bake about 45 minutes, until the crust is golden brown.

Red Chile Pecan Pie This recipe was contributed by Amy White. Photo by Mark C. Johnson Serves 6-8. Did you know? The pecan is a species of hickory, native to the southern U.S. and Mexico. New Mexico pecans are in season right now, and many orchards sell them online. Many people grow the tall, beautiful pecan as a shade tree in the Albuquerque area, but since our growing season is a few weeks shorter here than in southern New Mexico, they don’t usually produce a crop. Unlike most pecan pies, this recipe does not call for corn syrup, and is therefore a little less sweet.

Blogger Amy White is totally obsessed with vegetables and fruits. Amy can be found every Friday online at Edible Santa Fe with her Friday recipe, and on her blog: www.veggieobsession.blogspot.com

2 eggs 1 C. brown sugar ¼ C. white sugar ½ C. melted butter 2 T. red chile powder 1 T. all-purpose flour 1 T. milk 1 t. bourbon or vanilla extract 2 C. chopped pecans 1 pre-made 9-inch pie shell Preheat oven to 400º F. In a large bowl, beat eggs until foamy. Stir in melted butter, brown sugar, and flour. Mix thoroughly, then gently stir in milk, vanilla and pecans. Pour into an unbaked 9-inch pie shell. Cover the edges with foil, and bake at 400º F for 10 minutes. Remove the foil, reduce the temperature to 350º F, and bake for about 20 to 30 minutes longer, until the center is just set – the whole pie should jiggle as one mass when gently shaken. www.ediblesantafe.com

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Biscochitos Winter Desserts - The season for Dried Fruit By Deborah Madison Summer is all about juicy, succulent fruit. Come fall, the texture shifts from the soft flesh of peaches, figs and berries to the crisp apples, pears and dry-fleshed quince. While with us for many months, after a while they no longer have the interest that the new invokes. So what else do we have to fashion winters fruit desserts with? Well, there are citrus fruits of course, starting with the satsumas in November, but there are also dried fruits whose potential is vast and versatile. Think of raisins and prunes, slab apricots, Mission and Calimyrna figs. If you’ve haunted any farmers’ markets in places where fruits grow in abundance, you might have some treasures, such as Arctic Rose nectarines, both sweet and sour cherries, thick peaches, golden pears and true dried plums which are not as moist and fat as prunes (now called dried plums) but which are gorgeous shades of purple. Then there are the luscious Medjool and Deglet Noor dates. This recipe was contributed by Cecilia McCord, Executive Director of the Rio Grande Agricultural Land Trust, it was passed down to her from her grandmother. Cecilia is a native New Mexican whose family dates back to the 1600s. She was raised on the family farm in La Puebla, and now works her own family farm, 30-acres in Polvadera since 1994. This is my Grandmother Cecilia's recipe. Makes 4 to 5 dozen. 1 C. sugar 2 C. lard 3 eggs 3 t. baking powder 4 T. water 6 C. flour 1 T. anise seed (more or less if you like) 1 T. cinnamon ¼ C. sugar

Whether as familiar as a raisin or as exotic as a nectarine, dried fruits can appear in winter desserts, from compotes to tarts to puddings or nibbles.

Dried Figs in Pedro Jiminex Serves 6 to 8 These figs are so intense you really can’t eat more than a few, but they’re great to have on hand to serve with a mound of ricotta cheese or a spoonful of cold cream, or an exceptionally good yogurt. Pedro Jiminex is that syrupy dark and wellaged sherry that smells of sun and molasses-tinged tones. A Shiraz also makes a good poaching liquid.

Cream sugar and lard. Add eggs and mix thoroughly. Combine dry ingredients and add to the creamed mixture. Stir in anise. Chill until firm. Roll out dough and cut using cookie cutters. Bake at 400º F until bottoms are lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Mix cinnamon and sugar. When cool, cover the cookies in cinnamon sugar.

Put the figs in a small saucepan with the sherry plus water to cover, and honey. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover the pan and simmer until the figs are soft and succulent, 45 minutes to an hour. Remove the figs to a serving dish, leaving the liquid behind. Cut a number of the figs in half to expose their seeds. Or cut all of them, if you prefer. Bring the poaching liquid to a boil and cook until bubbles cover the surface and the texture is syrupy when you tilt the pan, about 5 minutes. Pour the syrup over the figs, cover the dish and refrigerate until you’re ready to serve them. Place a few figs in small bowls for each person and spoon a little cold cream around them.

Dates with This and That

There’s no easier winter dessert than this. Put out a plate of fat Medjool dates, a bowl of tangerines, some walnuts and a cracker, your favorite dark chocolate bar broken into bits. If you like the contrast of sweet and savory, unwrap one of our lovely fresh, tangy goat cheeses. Put all these together in whatever order appeals —perhaps a bite of date and a mouthful of cheese, followed by a nut then a refreshing section of tangerine.

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photos by Sergio Salvador (top) & Liv friis-Larsen, Shutterstock (bottom)

1 dried white figs and/or dried Mission figs, stems snipped 1 C. Pedro Jiminex or Shiraz 2 T. honey Cold cream or crème fraîche, loosened with a fork, for serving

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Books for Cooks 2011

Apple Pancakes

(Placuszki z jabłkami) By Beata Zatorska & Simon Target Serves 2-3 2 eggs 12 fl. oz. milk 2 T. superfine sugar 11 oz. self-rising flour 4 small eating apples 2 oz. unsalted butter for frying powdered sugar for decoration

Rose Petal Jam Beata Zatorska & Simon Target

Whisk the eggs, milk and sugar together, then fold in the flour. (These pancakes are like crumpets and need to be thick and fluffy so it is best not to use an electric mixer). Add a pinch of salt, cover and put aside for 30 minutes. Peel the apples, cut into halves, decore and slice thinly. Melt a knob of butter in a hot frying pan and add a dollop of the batter mix to form a pancake. Lay one or two slices of apple on top of the batter then fry for a couple of minutes. Turn over and cook the other side. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve hot.

This may be the most beautiful book I have ever seen. I once spent six months in Poland and it left an indelible mark on my soul, this book is that mark brought to life and magnified. If you are Polish, if you know someone is Polish, or if you just want a book whose cover and photography is so stunning it will make you weep, then buy this book. The book is magical and warm, pure pleasure, part travelogue, part cookbook, and the essence of all that is beautiful about Poland. - KM

Author Beata aged 5 making pierogi

From ‘Rose Petal Jam’ by Beata Zatorska and Simon Target © Tabula tabulabooks.com

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Canal House Cooks

Canal House Cooks are actually a series of books that you subscribe to and arrive three times a year with about 75 seasonal, rustic recipes in each book. They are not a magazine, but actual books, and I promise you that you will be halfway through one and you will be pining for the next. The books are drop dead gorgeous – serious food porn from two food goddesses. The authors you may know from another of our favorite pubs – Saveur: Hirsheimer was a founding editor and photographer and Hamilton was director of the test kitchen, they now spend their days in collaboration at their Canal House studio dishing up seriously good food. If there is someone on your list who loves food, they will adore you for subscribing them. This book is a gift of love and accessible to both novice and seasoned cooks. Find them online at www.thecanalhouse.com - KM

The star of this dish should be a rooster (or coq, as the French say). This classic French recipe was most likely built around what-to-do-whenthe rooster-died. This tough but flavorful bird needed long cooking and wine to coax it into tenderness. Today, finding a rooster in a supermarket is unlikely, so rather than using an all-purpose young chicken, look for a capon (a young castrated rooster) or use a large stewing hen. You can make this stew a day or two ahead and gently reheat on top of the stove or in a low oven. By Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton Serves 4 One 6–7-pound capon, stewing hen, or roaster, cut into 10 pieces crisp, about 5 minutes. Drain the bacon on paper towels, leaving the rendered fat in the pot. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring from time to time, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl and set aside. (The bacon and mushrooms aren’t added to the stew until the very end.)

8–10 shallots, peeled 2–3 medium carrots, peeled and diced 3–4 cloves garlic 1 branch fresh thyme

Increase the heat to medium-high. Working in batches to avoid crowding the pot, add the capon pieces, browning them all over (add a little oil to the pot if needed). Transfer them to a plate as they finish.

2 bay leaves 1-½ bottles wine (red or white, either one is fine) Salt and pepper 2 T. butter ¼ lb. thick-sliced bacon, diced ½ lb. white mushrooms, quartered lengthwise 1 T. tomato paste 2 T. flour

Cook the stew until the capon is very tender, about 1½ hours. Remove the capon from the pot with a slotted spoon and set aside. Strain the vegetables over a bowl. Discard the thyme branch. Set vegetables aside.

¼ C. Cognac 2 T. unsweetened cocoa

Put the capon, shallots, carrots, garlic, thyme, bay leaves, and wine into a large bowl to marinate. Cover and refrigerate for Return the sauce to the pot. Whisk in the cocoa. Simmer the sauce over medium heat until thickened a bit, 10–20 minutes. Taste the 1–2 days. sauce and season with salt and pepper. Reserving the marinade, remove the capon and pat the pieces dry with paper towels. Season the capon with salt and pepper Return the vegetables, capon, and mushrooms to the pot and warm everything together over low heat. Add the bacon just beand set aside. fore serving. Serve with buttered boiled potatoes or noodles, if Preheat the oven to 325°. Melt the butter in a large enameled you like. cast iron pot over medium heat. Add the bacon and fry until edibleradio.com www.ediblesantafe.com

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Books for Cooks 2011

Reduce the heat to medium and stir the tomato paste and the pour into the pot. Stir in the cognac, scraping up any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pot. Stir in the marinade (including the vegetables and aromatics). Add the capon and any accumulated juices from the plate to the pot. The liquid in the pot should just cover the meat; add more wine, or some chicken stock or water, if necessary. Bring to a simmer. Partially cover the pot and transfer to the oven.

by Christopher Hirsheimer & Melissa Hamilton

Coq au Vin

Books for Cooks 2011 Jennifer McLagan is on a crusade to bring the nose-to-tail style of cooking and eating out of the closet and back onto to our dining tables. Her mission: restoring our respect for the whole animal, developing a taste for its lesser known parts, and learning how to approach them in the kitchen as confidently as we would a steak or a burger. McLagan’s enthusiasm for her subject is contagious, and her insight and humor will convert even non-believers to the pleasure of odd bits. - KM

Odd Bits

by Jennifer McLagan

Chicken Liver Crostini

In a frying pan over medium-low heat, melt the fat. Add the shallot and rosemary and cook gently for about 5 minutes, or until the shallot is softened but not colored. Meanwhile, pat the livers dry and season them with salt and pepper. Add them to the pan and cook, stirring, until the livers are just pink in the center, about 3 minutes per side. Cut a liver in half to check. Remove the pan from the heat and, using a slotted spoon, transfer the livers and shallot mixture to a food processor, discarding the rosemary sprigs. Add the capers. Pour the vermouth in the pan, and return it to the heat. Bring the vermouth to a boil and, using a wooden spoon, stir to deglaze the pan and scrape up the browned bits from the bottom. Boil the vermouth until it is reduced by half. Add ½ teaspoon of salt and the vinegar, stir, and pour over the livers. Pulse the food processor to chop into a coarse paste, check the seasoning, and transfer the mixture to a bowl.

By Jennifer McLagan Makes about 1 cup, enough for 20 crostini 3 T. duck fat or unsalted butter 1 shallot, finely chopped 2 sprigs rosemary

Preheat the broiler to high.

7 oz. chicken livers, prepared

Brush the baguette slices with a little olive oil and toast them. Cut the garlic in half and rub the toasted bread on one side with the garlic, then top with a spoonful of liver mixture and serve.

Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 T. small capers, rinsed and dried 2 T. dry vermouth 1 t. red wine vinegar 20 slices baguette

Olive oil 1 clove garlic

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Cook’s Notes

Merguez sausage is a distinctly spiced Moroccan sausage made of lamb that can be found in specialty food markets. If you cannot find merguez in your area, use whatever sausage suits your taste, but I particularly like Spanish chorizo. Harissa is a fiery condiment found on most North African tables and is used to spice up dishes to suit your palate. Ras el Hanout translates to “top of the shop” and refers to the top combination of spices a Moroccan spice vendor can sell. You can find both harissa and ras el hanout at www.gourmet-delights. com or gourmetfoodstore.com, or you can make your own. - ecswantner

Moroccan Merguez Ragout with Poached Eggs By Amanda Hesser and Merrill Stubbs and the Food52 Community food52.com; epicureanodyssey.com Serves 4

Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until golden. Toss in the garlic and cook another 2 minutes. Add the merguez and sauté until almost cooked through, about 3 minutes.

½ C. extra virgin olive oil 1 large onion, small dice

Lower the heat to medium-low and add the ras el hanout, Spanish smoked paprika and salt. Stir to combine and cook for a minute to lightly toast the spices. Add the tomatoes. Turn up the heat to medium and cook until the mixture has thickened slightly, about 5 minutes.

1 lb. merguez sausage, sliced 1/2-inch thick* 1 T. ras el hanout* 1 t. Spanish sweet smoked paprika 1 t. kosher salt

Crack the eggs over the mixture, cover and cook until the whites set, but the yolks are still soft.

2 15-ounce cans fire-roasted tomatoes, preferably Muir Glen

Divide the eggs and ragout among four warm bowls using a large spoon. Top with a sprinkling of cilantro and a teaspoon of harissa.

8 extra-large eggs ½ C. roughly chopped cilantro, stems included

Serve immediately with crusty bread.

2 T. harissa* Warm crusty bread, for serving

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Reprinted with permission from the publisher William Morrow. 33

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4 large garlic cloves, peeled and minced

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Food52by Amanda Hesser, Merrill Stubbs & the Food52 Community

Accomplished food writers and stellar cooks Amanda Hesser and Merrill Stubbs had a mission: to discover and celebrate the best home cooks in the country. Each week for 52 weeks they ran recipe contests on their website, Food52.com. The results really are winners – neither complicated nor precious – they showcase the best of the best of some very talented home cooks. I would venture to go so far out on a limb as to say that every recipe is a keeper – tested, tasted, and vetted to their community, you will use this book again and again. Emily Swantner is a local Santa Fe chef who runs a supper club and food and travel business called Epicurean Odyssey, and this is her crowd pleasing recipe which was a winner in one of the contests. - KM

Books for Cooks 2011

In a food processor fitted with a fine grating attachment, shred the squash. (Or use a box grater, but it will be harder to do. You could also just cut it into small cubes; it won’t dissolve into a sauce but will be differently pleasing.) In a small saucepan, bring the stock to a simmer. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook, stirring them occasionally, until they are soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook it until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the rice, squash, rosemary, and salt. Stir until most of the grains of rice appear semitranslucent, 3 to 4 minutes. This means they have absorbed some of the fat from the pan, which will help keep the grains separate from each other as they form their creamy sauce. Pour the wine into the pan and let it cook off for about 2 minutes. Add a ladleful of stock (about ½ cup) and cook, stirring it constantly and making sure to scrape around the sides, until most of the liquid has evaporated. Continue adding stock, a ladleful at a time, and stirring almost constantly until the risotto has turned creamy and thick, and the grains of rice are tender with a bit of bite, 25 to 30 minutes (you may not need all the stock). Pluck out the rosemary branch and stir in the lemon zest, lemon juice, and black pepper. Taste and add more salt and lemon juice if needed. Garnish with the pistachios and optional cheese before serving.

What Else?

Cook This Now

by Melissa Clark

Melissa is the NY Times Dining Section columnist, her style is smart and personal and her love of food comes through in her writing. She is a cook who makes cooking accessible, her easy style and tips put the novice at ease, but don’t think for a minute this is a book for the novice alone. It’s what’s for dinner 7 nights a week, these are the dishes that demand a second helping. Melissa spent a year perfecting recipes that her family loved, the recipes are lively and fresh. - KM

Butternut Squash Risotto with Pistachios and Lemon

• Risotto is one of those things you might think is difficult to make, which is completely untrue. It’s no harder than oatmeal, though you do have to stir the pot with some regularity. I write in the recipe that you should stir it almost constantly, which is what I do. During most of its cooking time, I’m there at the stove, stirring away. But I do take a few short breaks to perhaps chop up some pistachios or pour myself a glass of seltzer. As long as the breaks are very short, they won’t compromise your risotto; just make sure to resume stirring with gusto and make sure to stir around the edges of the pan. • Sometimes, when I’m feeling lazy, I skip the step of putting the stock in a small saucepan over low heat next to my risotto pot, then ladling it a little at a time. The idea behind that technique is that you don’t want to bring the temperature of the risotto pan down too much as you add the stock, so adding small amounts of boiling (or at least steaming) stock works best. To cheat, sometimes I’ll pour the stock into a glass measuring cup, then stick it in the microwave for a few minutes to heat it up. Then I’ll pour it directly from the measuring cup into the pan, a few splashes at a time. As it cools, I’ll just stick it back in the microwave to reheat it. I find this easier than the pot-and-ladle method (especially since my measuring cups are dishwasher safe and my pots are not). You can do it either way.

By Melissa Clark Serves 4 to 6 ½ pound peeled butternut squash About 6 C. chicken or vegetable stock 3 T. unsalted butter 1 medium leek, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 2 C. arborio rice 2 rosemary branches

¾ t. kosher salt, more to taste 1/3 C. dry white wine Finely grated zest of 1 lemon ½ t. freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus more to taste Freshly ground black pepper to taste

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¼ C. chopped salted pistachios Grated Parmesan cheese, for serving (optional)

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Photo: Jennifer Esperanza

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Books for Cooks 2011

The Edible Brooklyn Cookbook is the second of the series of Edible Communities cookbooks that aims to pull back the curtain on where our food comes from. As a transplant from the East coast, I was delighted to find that this book captured the essence of the Brooklyn I know: a gritty, eclectic melting pot of food and culture so rich that few places in this country compare. Brooklyn is an exciting place to be for foodies, and this book provides a slice of place with real, useable recipes from some of the most inventive and exciting cooks living and cooking in Brooklyn. We’re not talking fancy chefs here, we’re talking serious foodies who are part of one of the most vibrant and lively food scenes in the country. - KM

Black-Eyed Peas From Amelia Coulter, owner of Sugarbuilt

Edible Brooklyn edited by Rachel Wharton

Serves a crowd (about 30) as a side Brooklyn is full of transplants, many of whom rekindle a connection to their native foods after they move away from home. That’s true of this spicy dish from Amelia Coulter, an artist and Brooklyn sugar-cookie baker known for the intricate designs she paints with icing. As a kid growing up in New Mexico, Coulter hated black-eyed peas (which are in fact not peas, but legumes), but now the once-dreaded holiday food—eaten along with collard greens for good luck on New Year’s across the South and Southwest—have taken on new meaning. “Now black-eyed peas have become a food I dearly love and am sincerely superstitious about.” These have one thing most Southerners don’t, however, and that’s plenty of spicy green peppers. “The New Mexican in me,” says Coulter, who uses both dried and canned beans, giving the dish a layered texture, “will only feel reassured if there is green chile added.” This recipe makes enough for a (large) holiday crowd. In a large, heavy pot with a lid cook the bacon over medium-high

heat until the edges just begin to brown. Add the onions and garlic, and sauté until translucent. Add the prosciutto and cook until it just begins to brown, 3–4 minutes.

½ lb. sliced bacon, cut in half crosswise into batons 2 large onions, chopped 4 cloves garlic, chopped 4 oz. prosciutto, diced 1 16 oz. bag dry black-eyed peas, soaked overnight and drained 2 15 oz. cans black-eyed peas, drained 1 bay leaf

Add the black-eyed peas and bay leaf, and cover with white wine, stock, and vinegar, adding water if the liquid doesn’t cover the contents of the pot. Cover and cook over medium-high heat, reducing the heat if it starts to boil over, for 15–20 minutes. Reduce the heat slightly and add the green chiles and the salt and pepper to taste. Continue to simmer uncovered for 15–30 minutes more, tasting from time to time and adding salt and pepper, if needed, until the soaked peas are cooked through and tender. (The canned peas will be a little mushier, but that’s okay.)

¼ C. white wine 2 C. chicken stock 2 T. rice wine vinegar, preferably brown 2 C. canned green chiles or roasted, peeled, and seeded fresh New Mexican green Hatch chiles

Salt Freshly ground black pepper

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Fresh Masa & Handmade Tortillas From Jacques Gautier, , chef / owner of Palo Santo restaurant in Park Slope Makes about 3 dozen tortillas Chef Jacques Gautier learned plenty for his Pan-Latin restaurant from his Haitian, Cuban, Dominican, and Puerto Rican relatives, but he also gets lessons from his kitchen crew, who are primarily Mexican immigrants. It was their influence that led to one of Palo Santo’s best sellers: steaming hot homemade tortillas, fragrant with the scent of toasted corn. Unlike most tortillas sold, even in Mexico, the masa, or dough, for these is made with freshly ground kernels from what’s sold as Indian corn, instead of prepared flour, and as a result they’re practically a meal themselves. “Once you have made the tortillas, the hard work is done and you can easily turn them into tacos by filling them with cooked meat, fish, or veggies and topping them with avocado, hot sauce, and cilantro,” says Gautier. Or use the dough to make tamales or empanadas. 1 lb. dried Indian corn, or other dried corn if Indian corn is hard to

Edible Tip “Ever wonder if what’s sold in the fall as ‘Indian corn’ is edible?” asks Jacques Gautier. “You hang it up as a decoration, and then what? Well, it might be a little bit hard to work with but it makes delicious tortillas.” The only other ingredient you’ll need is mineral lime, or cal, which is found at most Latin or Mexican supermarkets.

the masa with your hands to make it smoother. Add a little bit more of the cooking liquid if necessary. The finished masa should be smooth,

find (from about 6 cobs)

moist, and workable, but not sticky or loose.

2 t. mineral lime (cal in Spanish)

Form the masa into 1-inch balls. Heat a griddle, preferably cast-iron,

1 T. salt

over a medium flame and grease lightly with a little oil. Line a tortilla

Oil or lard for cooking the tortillas

press with plastic wrap or wax paper and press the balls, a few at a time

Break the corn off the cob by holding it firmly with both hands and twisting to loosen the kernels. Then break the cob in the middle and work

(however many will fit onto your griddle), into tortillas about 4 inches across. (If you don’t have a tortilla press, flatten the balls between plastic

the kernels off with your thumbs.

grocery bags using a heavy book.)

Put the kernels into a large pot with the lime and cover with water. Sim-

Turn the tortillas over onto the hot griddle. Flip them once they are firm

mer over low heat for an hour or so, until the kernels are soft but not mushy. Let them cool in the liquid to room temperature. Strain out the boiled corn (reserving the liquid) and grind it using a meat grinder, food processor, high-powered blender, or grain mill on a coarse setting. Then process the corn a second time (on a finer setting, if using a grinder or mill) with a tablespoon or two of the cooking liquid—just enough so the mixture forms a paste-like dough. Add the salt and work

enough and slightly toasted, and cook on the other side. Keep warm under a towel or in a plastic tortilla steamer until all are cooked. Use for making tacos or to serve alongside a Mexican meal, such as the salsa verde and eggs.

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Books for Cooks 2011

At restaurants all over the country, before the doors are open for service and the first reservation walks through the door, the staff eats a meal together. It’s rarely a fancy ordeal, rather the food is based on time, economy and ingredients, and the chef often makes inspired use of leftovers. Author Marissa Guggiana purposefully sought out farm to table restaurants knowing that these restaurants consider local produce and livestock an extension of the kitchen, all have a firm and respected place within their respective communities. She looks at each chef through the lens of the food they prepare and the book is full of wonderful meals from 50 of the top restaurants in the country, all accessible to home cooks. In addition to recipes, a questionnaire for each chef that will give a little personal insight into his or her sensibility. Chef Jose Garces, Distrito Restaurant in Philadelphia, was born in Chicago to Ecuadorian parents. He is the author of the cookbook Latin Evolution, owns seven restaurants and is an Iron Chef. - KM

Chicken Enchiladas with Salsa Ranchera From chef Jose Garces, Distrito Restaurant In a medium saucepan, combine heavy cream, coconut milk, habenero, oregano, and epazote. Simmer over low heat and reduce the sauce by half, about 30 minutes. Strain and set aside. While the cream sauce is simmering, make the salsa ranchera.

Serves 6-8 1 qt. heavy cream ¾ C. coconut milk

Off the Menu by Melissa Guggiana

1 habanero cut in half ¼ bunch oregano 1 sprig epazote Salsa Ranchera (see recipe below) 2 T. olive oil 5 onions, julienned 5 poblanos, roasted and julienned 2 lbs. chicken thighs, poached & shredded 2 lbs. chicken breasts, poached & sliced thin ½ bunch parsley, minced ½ bunch basil, minced Salt Sixteen 6-inch corn tortillas 1 C. grated Cotija cheese Thin sliced and julienned radish, optional

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Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat and lightly sweat or cook the onions, about 5 minutes. Add the poblanos and cream sauce and reduce over medium heat until the liquid is thick and creamy, about 30 minutes. Fold in chicken, parsley, and basil, and season with salt. Spread mixture out on a sheet pan to cool. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Coat the bottoms of two 13 x 9-inch pans with a ladle of salsa ranchera. Rub a bit of oil on the tortillas to make them more pliable. Fill tortillas with chicken cream mixture, roll, and place 8 filled enchiladas in each pan, seam side down. Top enchiladas with remaining salsa ranchera and bake for 15 minutes. Top with grated Cotija cheese, garnish with radish if desired.

Salsa Ranchera 1 onion, coarse diced 10 plum tomatoes 2 to 3 jalapeños 2 cloves garlic 2 C. roasted red peppers 2 T. extra-virgin olive oil Salt Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add onion, tomatoes, and jalapeños. Blanch until the skins start to break on the tomatoes; remove from water. In a blender, purée all the ingredients except half the jalapeños until smooth, working in batches if needed. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Purée in the remaining jalapeño, if desired, for spiciness.

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Books for Cooks 2011 Super Natural Everyday by Heidi Swanson

Heidi Swanson’s approach to cooking whole, natural foods has earned her a loyal global readership through her award-winning blog, 101 Cookbooks. com. In Super Natural Every Day, Heidi helps us make nutritionally packed meals part of our daily repertoire by sharing a sumptuous collection of nearly 100 of her go-to recipes. This stylish cookbook is equal parts inspiration and instruction, and these are recipes you’ll turn to again and again because they’re approachable, good for the body, and just plain delicious. - KM

White Beans & Cabbage with Parmesan, Potatoes, Shallots By Heidi Swanson Serves 4 2 T. extra-virgin olive oil, clarified butter, or unsalted butter 4 oz. potatoes, unpeeled, scrubbed, and cut into tiny cubes Fine-grain sea salt 1 large shallot, thinly sliced 2 C. cooked and cooled white beans or 1 (15-ounce) can white beans, rinsed and drained 3 C. very finely shredded green cabbage

Pour the olive oil into a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the potatoes and a big pinch of salt. Toss, cover, and cook until the potatoes are cooked through, 5 to 8 minutes. Be sure to scrape the pan and toss the potatoes once or twice along the way so all sides get color. Stir in the shallot and the beans. Let the beans cook in a single layer for a couple minutes, until they brown a bit, then scrape and toss again. Cook until the beans are nicely browned and a bit crispy on all sides. Stir in the cabbage and cook for another minute, or until the cabbage loses a bit of its structure. Serve dusted with Parmesan.

A bit of freshly grated Parmesan cheese

“Reprinted with permission from Super Natural Every Day: Well-Loved Recipes from My Natural Foods Kitchen by Heidi Swanson, copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.” Photo Credit: Heidi Swanson© 2011

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A New Turn in the South by Hugh Acheson

I will admit I was a bit put off by the title as I wasn’t sure the world needed a new take on Southern cooking. But then I saw it was Hugh Acheson, five-time James Beard nominee for Best Chef Southeast and a Food and Wine Best New Chef. Hugh has been called a modern master, a culinary treasure, and he is one of the most inventive cooks alive today. The book is loads of fun to read, divided into chapters that include Libations; Snackies; First Courses; Soups and Salads; Things with Wings; The Red Meats; Vegetables; Grains & Taters; Put-Ups & Pantry Items, etc. More than 120 mouth watering recipes, headnotes, color photos and line drawings from Acheson plus loads of kitchen tips make this a great gift for a good cook, or an aspiring one. - KM

Pear and Pecan Flip Cake This has been a staple of mine for years and I never tire of it. I love the baked pears and the pecans together. Pecans litter the ground here for about two months from September until November and my kids have always been pretty savvy to find a rock and crack them open. I remember Beatrice doing that when she was two years old outside her daycare. That makes a lot of sense when you realize the word”pecan” derives from an old Algonquin term for “nut you open with a rock.” I use a melon baller to scoop out the seed area of the apples and pears. Tricks of the trade. This would rock with some sorghum ice cream. By Hugh Acheson Serves 8-12 4 T. butter (½ stick) 4 pears, peeled, scooped of seeds, and cut into ¼-inch slices

Melt butter in a 9-inch cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Add the pears and orange zest and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the orange juice, ginger, vanilla seeds, and sugar, and cook for another 5 to 7 minutes, until the pears are tender but still have a bite. Remove the pears from the liquid with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Zest and juice of one orange 1 t. grated fresh, peeled ginger ½ vanilla bean, scraped, seeds only 1 C. granulated sugar

Increase the heat to medium high and continue to cook the liquid until it’s thickened to a caramel-like state, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn off the heat. Allow the liquid to cool for a few minutes.

¾ C. pecans, toasted, coarsely chopped Cake Batter

Arrange the pears in a desired design on top of the reduced sugar mixture. Sprinkle with the chopped pecans.

Cake Batter:

½ C. packed light brown sugar

Crack the eggs into a medium bowl, add the buttermilk, and whisk to combine. Slowly add the egg mixture to the butter mixture, stirring gently to combine.

½ C. granulated sugar ½ vanilla bean, scraped seeds only 1 t. ground cinnamon

In a medium bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt. Add the dry mixture to the wet all at once, turn on the mixer, and mix for about 30 seconds. (This batter can also be baked on its own and served with a fruit compote, homemade ice cream, or used in pineapple upside-down cake.)

3 eggs, at room temperature 2 T. buttermilk 1 ¼ C. all-purpose flour

Spread the cake batter over the top of the pears. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the cake springs back just slightly when touched. Allow to cool for 5 minutes.

¼ C. cornmeal 1 ¾ t. baking powder ½ t. salt

Run a knife around the edge of the cake and unmold by carefully flipping the skillet onto a large serving plate. Serve warm with homemade sorghum ice cream.

Preheat the oven to 350°F edibleradio.com

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Books for Cooks 2011

Make the cake batter: In a large mixing bowl, cream the butter, brown sugar, granulated sugar, vanilla seeds, and cinnamon with an electric mixer until pale and fluffy.

½ C. (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened

Books for Cooks 2011

Yvette Van Boven is a freelance food stylist and recipe writer, she lives in Amsterdam and Paris. Ms. Van Boven has a wonderfully refreshing, distinct style, and a lovely, irreverent voice. She also illustrates books, newspapers, websites and magazines and she has, together with her cousin Joris, a restaurant and catering business in Amsterdam. How do you make cheese from pantry staples? Or create an oven smoker from scratch in just two minutes? Or make ice cream without a machine? Yvette shows you how with step-by-step photos and illustrations, and a gorgeous photo alongside every recipe. I was inspired and entertained by this delightful book!

Homemade by Yvette Van Boven

The illustration below was published online at Grazia.it, and is a wonderful example of Yvetteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s style and illustrations. - KM

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Home Made was sold to Murdoch Books and translated into English and distributed all over the world in October 2011. Winter 2011

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brewhaus

Spice it up! by

Brad K raus

pices are evocative of the winter holiday season. The aromas of cinnamon, clove, ginger, and nutmeg bring to mind many different dishes served during these celebratory feasts. They also play prominently in many winter beverages, and beer is no exception. These beers make a perfect complement to your holiday feast since they share complimentary spicing and are strong enough to hold up to rich fare. Craft brewers and even some major brewers are producing seasonal spiced beers. The most popular category seems to be pumpkin spice beers which start showing up around Halloween and are available through the holiday season. The aim is to recreate the flavor of an American pumpkin pie in the beer, though many of the beers will not contain any pumpkin. Others are stronger beers brewed specifically for the winter, such as a winter warmer, incorporating spices into them. The spices most often used today in holiday beers would be the the ones mentioned above as well as allspice, cardamom, mace, star anise, and vanilla. Spices actually have been used in beer for millennia. There are some styles that still do, such as Belgian-style Witbier and Saison. Many of these spices and herbs were used for bittering, preceding the use of hops. Gruit is a general term for a mixture of herbs used to flavor and preserve beer prior to the general use of hops in the 15th and 16th centuries. It most often contained sweet gale (bog myrtle), yarrow, and wild (or marsh) rosemary, but could have caraway, cinnamon, heather, ginger, or juniper in the mix also. The sale and taxation of gruit was the province of the Catholic Church and started to fall by the wayside with the secularization of brewing that coincided with the Reformation. Most of the spice beers you would find today come out of the US, the UK, Denmark, and to a lesser extent Belgium. Locally, several are available seasonally, from such breweries as Blue Corn Brewery, Chama River Brewing Company, La Cumbre, and Marble Brewery.

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Wassail Here is a recipe from historicalfoods.com that is adapted from a 1648 recipe attributed to Herrick in his Twelfth Night or King and Queen: 1.5 quarts of traditional ale 6 small cooking apples, cored 1 nutmeg freshly grated 1 tsp ground ginger 5 oz. brown sugar (demerara) Preheat the oven 250°F Prepare the apples in advance: time it so they are ready when you want to put them into the lambswool to serve. Core the 6 apples fully, getting rid of the pips. Lightly grease the baking tray. Place the apples on the baking tray about 2 inches apart – they will swell up a little. Bake the apples at 250°F for about an hour or so – so they become soft and pulpy and the skins are easy to peel away.

Most of these fall under the pumpkin spice beer category, but a national craft brewery, Anchor Brewing Company of San Francisco, has made Our Christmas Ale since 1975, and it should be readily available here. Other craft breweries, such as Schlafly of St. Louis, MO, and Moylan’s in Novato, CA, also make specific Christmas ales. Another Christmas tradition involving beer and spices is wassail. A medieval English custom involving toasting the good health or good fortune of others, which was the meaning of the Old Norse and Old English words from which the name was derived. It typically involved a large, often wooden, bowl and elaborate cups. The main ingredients typically were hot strong ale, sugar, spices, and roasted apples. It was also known as lambswool due to its appearance.

Gruit is a general term for a mixture of herbs used to flavor and preserve beer prior to the general use of hops in the 15th and 16th centuries. 44

Make the Lambswool: In a large thick bottomed saucepan add the sugar. Cover the sugar in a small amount of the ale and heat gently. Stir continuously until the sugar has dissolved. Then add in the ground ginger and grate in the whole of the nutmeg. Stir, and keeping the pan on a gentle simmer, slowly add in all the rest of the ale. Leave for 10 minutes on a gentle heat as you deal with the apples. Take the baked apples out of the oven to cool slightly for 10 minutes – they should now be soft and pulpy. Break open the apples and scoop out the baked flesh into a bowl, discarding the skin. Then take a fork and mash this apple pulp up, while it is still warm, into a smooth purée with no lumps. Add the apple purée into the ale lambswool, mixing it in with a whisk. Let the saucepan continue to warm everything through for thirty minutes, on a very gentle heat, until ready to drink. When warmed through use the whisk again for a couple of minutes to briskly froth the drink up and mix everything together. The apple will float to the surface, and depending on how much you have whisked it, the more it looks like lamb’s wool. Ladle the hot Lambswool into heatproof mugs or glasses, or into a communal bowl to pass around. Wassail!

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here it comes: Fruitcake Season

Deep Mountain Fruitcake The trick is using unsulfured dried fruit. Yes, this means the shriveled, dark and often ugly looking kind. Once in a batter who’ll notice? But two years ago when the local fruit crops were plentiful I got a real treat. Just down the road a wild apple tree teemed with fruit and I decided to dry several batches. My goodness there’s nothing like baking with fruit you’ve picked, sliced and dried yourself. I grew up at sea level so recreating my mother’s recipe for 7500 feet took some doing. And I don’t like nuts but go ahead and add 2 cups of pecans, walnuts, almonds, whatever. Baked slowly the aromas mingle then fuse into a nice thick flavor. But beware: When I first served this, friends worried about getting arrested for DWI. Just give a slice to the patrolman; he’ll understand. 6 C. of mixed and diced dried fruit. A good balance is: ¾ C. yellow raisins ½ C. black raisins 1 C. dates 1 C. apricots 1 C. figs ¾ C. cranberries 1 C. dried apples

Fruitcake. You either hate it or love it. Either way, the jokes always resurface come holiday time: use it as hockey pucks, speed bumps, doorstops, anchors. The last probably comes closest to its earliest use, as sustenance for crusaders sallying forth during the Middle Ages. Rumor has it they were weighed down by their journey food. But dense cakes could withstand passage to the other side so became part of the early Egyptians’ funeral rites. Ancient Romans whipped up pomegranate seeds, pine nuts and raisins. Adding honey and spices only increased its value.

3 C. sifted flour ¾ t. baking powder 1 t. salt 1 t. cinnamon 1 t. allspice ½ t. nutmeg ½ t. cloves

This traditional pound cake (no joke intended) holds a long history of the common people--adding nuts during nut harvests, adding sugar-preserved fruits upon that discovery then adding whiskey to make the whole thing palatable. As a kid, I hated the candied fruit my mother put in her fruitcake. “It’s what you’re supposed to do,” she insisted upon my complaining. The dark cake, however, was yummy and I got very good at picking around those too colorful, phony, fake tasting and too sweet pieces of fruit.

1 C. shortening 1½ C. brown sugar 5 large eggs ¾ C. dark grape juice (or whiskey)

Photo by Marilyn Barbone, Shutterstock

When I reached adulthood, a benchmark event that finally happened a few years ago, I wondered about reinventing the fruitcake. Why not use real dried fruit? Part of being an adult means breaking your mother’s rules. And surely the fruitcake police wouldn’t come knocking on my door. I gave it a try and now have a fruitcake worth its weight.

Optional: ½ to 1 cup each whiskey or brandy for dousing cakes Preheat oven to 275º F. Butter and flour 2 large loaf pans. Mix fruits (and nuts if you are using); set aside. Sift flour, baking powder, salt and spices. Sprinkle ¼ cup over fruit and nuts, coating well.

In fact, last year some friends in Albuquerque called. “Aren’t you sending fruitcake this year?” Imagine. People begging for the stuff. Life was too nutty last fall to make it, but this year my Deep Mountain Fruitcake is once again on the list.

In a standing mixer or large bowl, cream the shortening and sugar; adding the eggs one at a time. Add dry ingredients to creamed mixture, alternating with grape juice. Beat until smooth. Pour batter over fruits, and mix.

If you still don’t like fruitcake, use slices to balance

Pour into loaf pans, filling ¾ full.

wobbly tables. Works every time.

Bake at 275º for 3 hours. Place a pan with 2 cups of water on a bottom shelf of oven to keep loaves moist. When cool, pour liquor (whiskey or brandy) over loaves; let it soak in. Then wrap in waxed paper and plastic and store in the refrigerator for several weeks.

Cindy Bellinger, a local writer since 1979, lives in Pecos where she loves to bake, garden and hike.

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SubscribC' online 10 any edible mag;u.ine by clicking on the "Edible Publications" page at www.ediblecommunitie$.com and select the magazine of your choice. St:l.y up to the minute on all things M'bJrwith Facebook iUU..l T willer, or lisrcn <0 our Stories come to life on Nliblt fuodiu _ www.lwblc ...dio.com

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www.ediblesantafe.com

outside in

Bringing the Garden Inside by

Travis Chapman

Photo RIGHT by Robyn Mackenzie, Shutterstock; Photo LEFT by withGod, Shutterstock

n the deepest, darkest days of winter, our memories naturally go back to the beauty and bounty of our summertime gardens. But the shorter days and colder temperatures of winter don’t mean that the garden’s pleasures and enrichment have to lie dormant until spring. Indoor gardening allows the spirit and energy of vibrant growth and abundance to permeate homes, schools and offices year round.

Larger plants such as full-size tomatoes and peppers will usually require High Intensity Discharge (HID) grow light systems. There are two types: Metal Halide lamps for clear full-spectrum light that simulates spring and summer growth conditions, and High Pressure Sodium lamps for golden light that evokes the afternoon sun of fall. While HID systems can use relatively large amounts of electricity, they are still energy efficient in terms of the amount of light they provide—as much as 10 times more light than an incandescent lamp of the same wattage!

For the cook who wants the freshest produce, even in the middle of winter, herb gardens and lettuce gardens are easy additions to the kitchen, or any room in the home. It’s even possible to grow large plants such as tomatoes or peppers if enough space and light are available. Freshly harvested leafy greens, cooking herbs and vegetables are an excellent source of vitamins and nutrition any time, but they are especially welcome at the time of year when consumption of other fruits and vegetables tends to decline. Plus, the cost and environmental impact of packing and shipping edible plants and vegetables is eliminated.

Most gardeners bring their familiarity with potting soil to their indoor gardens. Wide ranges of quality potting soils, many of them organic, are available, and the variety and style of planters and containers are limited only by the imagination of the gardener. For those who want the highest performance, as well as a modern interpretation of concepts that were used by both the Aztecs and the ancient Babylonians, the science of hydroponics takes gardening to the next level. Hydroponic systems grow plants without using soil, and there are many different methods and techniques available in both ready-made systems and do-it-yourself projects. Hydroponic gardening can be simple or complex, but in general will be a little more work than soil gardening. The trade-off, or the payoff, is in faster growth rates and higher yields.

In northern New Mexico, due to our sunny winter days, a large window can often provide enough light to grow and harvest herbs and greens year round. Southern, southwestern, or western exposures work best for wintertime gardening because of the angle of the earth relative to the sun, and a sunroom or enclosed porch is an ideal spot for an indoor garden. Even with natural sunlight, supplemental lighting can often improve growth rates and plant productivity. For an indoor garden area without sufficient natural light, grow lights may be a necessity.

There are many ways to bring the green inside for winter, but they all improve the atmosphere, promote resource conservation and even provide fresh produce. The less tangible benefits of being around living, thriving plants in the midst of winter—relaxation, reflection, even joy—may be reason enough to garden indoors.

Horticultural lighting is available in many forms and price points depending on the needs of the indoor gardener. Inexpensive “shop light” style fluorescent systems are sufficient to start seedlings indoors and to provide supplemental light for herbs and greens. Compact fluorescent and T5 fluorescent lights are high-output systems that provide an ideal light spectrum for plants while being thrifty with electricity. These high performance lights can grow flourishing greens and herbs with ease, and are also excellent for indoor flower gardens and medium size plants. www.ediblesantafe.com

Travis Chapman is the General Manager of AHL Year Round Garden Supply in Albuquerque. He’s been with AHL for over 14 years and has just as many years of indoor and outdoor gardening experience. 47

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five winter garden sensations by

our intake of fresh produce need not diminish during the winter. Growing an indoor garden is one of the best ways to stay healthy, and happy, in the colder months and it will save you money and trips to the market when the snow is piling up at the front door. Here are some tips to get your greens growing within the comforts of your own, cozy home. If you’re already growing fresh herbs you know how low maintenance they can be and how tastily they transform any meal. Savory winter herbs such as parsley, dill, mint, sage, and thyme can yield great amounts of seasoning to make delicious soups, wintery stews, and warm teas. You can also have fresh greens growing inside all winter long. Save and rinse out produce trays, like you get when you buy mushrooms or berries, and line them with several layers of paper towels. Dampen with water and sprinkle on your salad green seeds. Place the trays in paper grocery bags and store in a dark, cool place until the seeds germinate and are at least an inch tall; then you can move to a windowsill. You want a

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Jill Ettinger • Photography by Carole Topalian

If you’re already growing fresh herbs you know how low maintenance they can be and how tastily they transform any meal spot that has a good balance of light and shade and not too much sun, which might dry the seedlings out. Facing south is best. Moisten as needed and once your leaves are several inches tall you can trim and use as you would any other salad greens. Sprouts are probably the easiest indoor gardening venture. You can buy sprout kits almost anywhere, or make your own with some screen mesh, a big glass jar, and a few trays. Sprouted sunflower seeds make a tasty addition to salads and sandwiches, and spicy broccoli and clover sprouts are great fertility boosters for women. You can grow trays of wheatgrass and juice the shoots each day for an extra boost of energy and healthy nutrients. Visit sproutpeople.org to learn more about sprouting at home. 48

Something that may already be growing in your house is also a super health food perfect for winter: aloe vera. The inside of aloe leaves contains mucopolysaccharides, which are loaded with healing properties for your skin and digestive tract. While aloe takes some getting used to, after a while you may actually like its bitter taste. Cut the skin away and scoop out the jelly. Blend with juice or eat straight. You can use it externally on dry, flaky, winter skin. Bring a little summer to your winter by growing edible flowers. Impatiens and calendulas are delicious salad toppers and grow easily indoors. With your yummy and healthy winter garden growing inside, you might not have to leave the house until after the thaw.

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1051 San Mateo Blvd SE 9421 Coors Blvd NW, Suite K 800-753-4617 AHLgrows.com

Grow your own organic herbs and vegetables all year long! Two Albuquerque Locations Plus Fast, Convenient Shipping Statewide

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Over ten years experience! 505.983.5743

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Adam Griego Owner/Technician

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www.adamsautosantafe.com Office 505.424.0115

Cell 505.603.4159

learn it, do it, make it Many of us are increasingly returning to the “make it from scratch” practices once common in home kitchens. We might return to these practices because we want to take on a new challenge, make homemade things taste better, or save money without sacrificing quality. When my family embarked on our own do-it-ourselves projects I found all of these things to be true; but I was most surprised by how satisfying and fun it was. We have come to relish our homemade no-knead bread smeared with tangy, garlicinfused soft cheese, teas made from dried garden herbs, and frozen fruits from our trees. When we take out a jar of frozen apples in mid-January they taste like a ray of sunshine, a perfect winter pick-me-up, worth all the effort. Below are some community resources to help you embark on your own do-it-yourself adventures.

La Montanita Co-op

UNM Continuing Education Program

Great place to purchase fresh, local pro- Non-degree courses including wine appreduce and save money. Offers a volunteer ciation, The Buzz About Bee Keeping and program that can earn you 18% off store Going Vegan Without Going Nuts. purchases. 10% discount offered on certain dce.unm.edu (Click on “Growth & Enrichspecial orders. lamontanita.coop (click on ment” under “Courses.”) “Community” then “Volunteer”)

Lobo Gardens Local Food Calendar, Mid-Region UNM The Lobo Gardens provide UNM students, Council of Governments of NM Extensive listing of upcoming events relat- faculty, and staff with opportunities to edu-

ed to local food and agriculture. Updated cate themselves and their communities weekly. www.mrcog-nm.gov (click on “Ag- about the practices and health benefits of growing one’s food in sustainable ways. riculture” then “Events Calendar”) Opportunities for community members to be involved via taking a class, volunteering, Los Poblanos Historic Inn and and donating needed supplies. unmlobogOrganic Farm Local food dining events, cooking classes, ardens.wordpress.com and workshops set among 25 acres on one of the most magnificent historic properties UNM Sustainability Studies Program in the Southwest. Looking for a change in career? Sustainlospoblanos.com (“Events Calendar”) ability is a way of life that meets the needs of the present without compromising the Albuquerque ability of future generations to meet their Mother Nature Gardens Albuquerque Beekeepers own needs; it is the capacity to endure. Whether you’re just getting started or Connects people with the earth in body The Sustainability Studies Program (SSP) and soul by teaching them to produce you’re a long-time beekeeper, use this site utilizes experiential learning, research, and to share information, find events, and con- food at their feet and to “plug in” to natu- service activities to implement practical soral energies that promotes and sustain life. nect with each other. Offers information on lutions for a sustainable future on the UNM beekeeping, events, discussion forums, a Gardening, permaculture, and rainwater campus, in the state of New Mexico, and harvesting classes offered. Sustainable livbeekeeping mentoring program, and list of for the Earth as a whole. beekeepers that collect swarms. abqbeeks. ing consultations also available. Classes sust.unm.edu resume in spring 2012; schedule will be ning.com posted on the website in March 2012. Beekeepers who also teach beekeeping: mothernaturegardens.com Victory Gardening Services Provides services for the home vegetable Jessie Brown, 505-710-3277 gardener focusing on eliciting the joy of Pint-Sized Farm, Albuquerque, NM brownsdowntownbees@hotmail.com Courses on making kombucha, producing growing food in the urban environment. dairy foods, and raising chickens/hogs/ Offers one-on-one gardening consultation, Megan Mahoney, 505-695-2331 goats, offered on small family farm just group gardening seminars, vegetable garmagdamiel@gmail.com outside of Albuquerque. Also offers bovine den installation, and garden-sitting. ConKen Hayes, 505-869-2369. nissapatterson@ artificial insemination services, private contact Nissa Patterson: gmail.com or 505-259-2074. Beekeeping seminar will be offered sec- sulting, and animals for sale. pintsizedfarm.com ond Saturday in May 2012. Albuquerque (Surrounding area)

ABQ Old School

Year-round classes in frugal, traditional, and sustainable living. Recent classes include bread making, canning, cheese making, solar cooking, home brewing, backyard chickens, and seed sprouting. abqoldschool.com

Bernalillo County Open Space

Free workshop series that provides practical experience and knowledge for transforming backyards into thriving urban oases of food, medicine, and wildlife habitat. In 2011 guest speakers presented on topics such as irrigation, livestock, insects, gardening, seed saving, and more. Classes resume in February 2012. bernco.gov (click on “Open Space,” then “The Backyard Farming Series”)

South Valley Economic Development Center (SVEDC)

Provides facilities, resources, and training to support the development of new and expanding small businesses that will create jobs and foster economic revitalization of the South Valley community, while preserving the heritage and culture of the community. The SVEDC is a full-service business incubator, providing training and planning resources and a commercial kitchen available to food related businesses. svedc.org

Sunstone Farms and Learning Center

Offers about 20 workshops with topics ranging from backyard chicken/ goat keeping and Herbalism 101 to homemade soda and bread-making. Courses offered year round. sunstonefarmandlearn.com

Coonridge Organic Goat Cheese, outside Pie Town

“Peasant” cheese making class will be offered each month March thru August 2012. This method of cheese making requires a milking animal and salt. Classes taught in remote, beautiful location. Call for more information on classes at 505-250-8553. coonridgegoatcheese.com

Hays Honey & Apple Farm, Bosque Farms Beekeeping seminar offered second Saturday in May 2012, bee keeping mentoring, and fruit tree-pruning seminar second Saturday in February 2012. For more information 505-869-2369.

Old Windmill Dairy, Estancia Classes on cheese, butter, ice cream Urban Store Central NM Community College, Culimaking and farm tours on goat farm and Sustainibilty resource store. Products in- nclude terminology lessons and hands on nary Arts Program Culinary Arts is an excellent field for students seeking a career in a rapidly-growing industry. Students study baking and pastry, professional cooking, safety, sanitation, nutrition, equipment use, human relations, supervisory and dining room skills, and business practices. cnm.edu (click on “Culinary Arts” under “Areas of Study”)

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clude cheese and sprout making kits, micro-intensive four season garden boxes, chicken tractors, composting supplies, books on sustainable living, rain barrels, organic/open pollinated seeds, and more. urbanstoreonline.com

activities. theoldwindmilldairy.com

South Mountain Dairy, Edgewood

Volunteer program in which participants can help with kidding & cheese making. southmountaindairy.com (click on “Volunteer Opportunities”) www.ediblesantafe.com

learn it, do it, make it Santa Fe Buckin’ Bee

Offers beginner and intermediate bee keeping classes, starting spring 2012. Sells hive products (honey, propolis, pollen, beeswax) and hives. buckinbee.com

Comida de Campos, Embudo

Farm located in Embudo, NM, that offers events during summertime, including a farm tour followed by fresh-from-the-field meal. Authentic New Mexican recipes, hands-on cooking, and timeless hospitality will delight your senses and warm your heart. Call for more info, 505-852-0017. comidadecampos.com

Ecoversity

Ecoversity is an educational center devoted to training and education in skills and practices for sustainable living, while providing a demonstration site in sustainable living for the general public. Beekeeping course offered. ecoversity.org

For the Love of Bees

Provides educational instruction on how to keep bees without the use of chemical inputs, and how to market raw honey that is unadulterated by heating, filtration, or any other treatment. Classes in Spring 2012 for both backyard beekeepers as well as a certification course for those who would like to make a vocation out of beekeeping. On-site apprenticeships also offered. fortheloveofbees.com

Homegrown NM

Produces events that educate and promote the awareness of nutritious, homegrown food. Recent workshops include planting garlic, food preservation, an herb walk, and making chile ristras. Workshops will begin again in March 2012. The monthly potlucks with short presentations, as well as the twice-monthly Local Organic Meals on a Budget classes, will continue through winter. localorganicmeals.com homegrownnewmexico.org

La Montanita Co-op

Great place to purchase fresh, local produce and save money. Offers volunteer program that can earn you 18% off store purchases. 10% discount offered on certain special orders. lamontanita.coop (click on “Community” then “Volunteer”)

Permaculture Institute

An educational non-profit organization offering Permaculture Design Courses and in-depth sustainable living classes. Permaculture is an ecological design system for sustainability in all aspects of human endeavor. It teaches us how build natural homes, grow our own food, restore diminished landscapes and ecosystems, catch rainwater, build communities, and much more. permaculture.org

Santa Fe Community College, Culinary Arts Program

A hands-on professional program designed to give you the skills you need for a career in culinary arts. The Culinary Arts Institute provides instruction in all areas of the hospitality industry, including pastries, hot and cold kitchens, dining room and bar, cost controls and management, restaurant design, nutrition, and sanitation and safety. sfcc.edu (click on “A-Z Index,” then “Culinary Arts Program”)

Slow Food Santa Fe

The vision of Slow Food US is that food is a common language and a universal right. They envision a world in which all people can eat food that is good for them, good for the people who grow it, and good for the planet. The Santa Fe chapter offers events to connect with like-minded people and experience local food. slowfoodsantafe.blogspot.com

Taos Emmett Marx beekeeping

Offers a comprehensive top bar beekeeping course that will begin in April 2102 and run through October. Also offers swarm-catching services. Contact 575-613-6438 or em@epmarx.com

Taos County Economic Development Corporation (TCEDC)

TCEDC is community development organization that builds on the strengths and wisdom of land-based cultures that have demonstrated the ability to survive and overcome adversity by retaining beliefs and values and recognizing the inevitability of cycles. The Taos Food Center provides support for new and expanding food businesses. Services include commercial kitchen facilities, specialized training, product development, business development, cooperative marketing assistance, and a course called The Food Sector Opportunity program. TCEDC also provides courses for community members on food-related topics; recent courses include bread making, comprehensive food preservation, eating fresh and local for diabetics, and a sevenmonth-long Gardening for Home and Money course. Call 575-758-8731 for future classes and more information. tcedc.org

University of NM, Taos Campus

Offers degree & non-degree culinary arts courses covering an array of food topics. taos.unm.edu (under “Academics” click on “Class Descriptions”)

County Extension Services Every county in New Mexico has an extension office that serves them. The mission of the Cooperative Extension Service is to provide the people of New Mexico with practical, research-based knowledge and programs to improve their quality of life. The base programs of the Cooperative Extension Service are agriculture and natural resources, consumer and family issues, youth development, and community economic development. Find many excellent food-related publications at aces.nmsu.edu (click on “Extension and Outreach,” then “Extension Publications” under “Resources”) Below is a list of home economic and master gardener courses offered by three county offices. Check with your local county office about the services and courses they offer. Search for your local office at: aces.nmsu.edu/county Bernalillo County Extension Office Master Gardeners course offered January-April 2012. Although the application deadline has passed, classes may be attended on a drop-in basis. abqmastergardeners.org or 505-243-1386. Many classes offered by the Home Economist including food preservation, bread making, tamale making, gluten-free baking, and Diabetes Cooking School. Schedule for food preservation classes posted in April 2012. Call 505-243-1386 or bernalilloextension.nmsu.edu (click on “Home Economics”). Santa Fe County Extension Office Master Gardeners course offered JanMay. Applications due in December. Call 505-471-4711 or sfmga.org for info. Many classes offered by the Home Economist including food preservation (JuneAugust), and nutrition classes such as My Chronic Disease, cooking school for people with diabetes, and classes for childcare workers on healthy, affordable, child-friendly snacks. Call 505-471-4711 or santafeextension.nmsu.edu (click on “Home Economics & ICAN”) Taos County Extension Office Master Gardeners course tentatively planned to be offered in early 2012. For more information call 575-758-3982. Occasional classes on food preservation and other home economic topics offered in the Taos office. Call 575-758-3982 or taosextension.nmsu.edu Rio Arriba County Extension offices offer a selection of home economics courses at the Abiquiu (505-685-4523) and Tierra Amarilla (575-588-7423) offices. rioarribaextension.nmsu.edu

Nissa Patterson, MPH is a mother, public health professional, and owner of Victory Gardening Services. Most days she can be found puttering in the garden, pondering vegetables or discovering life through the eyes of a toddler. www.ediblesantafe.com

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Bright light on a cold night!

TwenTy classic & signaTure salads builT upon fresh, organic greens & produce from vinaigreTTeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ten-acre farm in nambe

Premier dining, lodging and live music

575.758.2233

taosinn.com supporT heriTage Turkeys

Serving Taos since 1936

Proceeds from our locally-raised heritage turkey dishes go to the American Livestock Conservancy. 709 don cubero alley santa fe, nm 87505 505.820.9205 www.vinaigretteonline.com

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Eat Local Guide your guide for best dining in NM New Mexico has its own unique food traditions—from Hatch to Chimayo—and we’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants and chefs that create the distinctively New Mexico dining experience. Restaurants are chosen for this dining guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients in their menus and their commitment to real food. Albuquerque

Annapurna Annapurna is a woman-owned vegetarian restaurant serving healing cuisine in Albuquerque since 2001 and Santa Fe since 2005. This premier organic establishment focuses on a madefrom-scratch menu that is Ayurvedic (a healing system from India), vegan and gluten-free, including its own vegan and gluten-free bakery. 2201 Silver Ave SE, 505.262.2424 & 7520 4th St NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, 505.254.2424 chaishoppe.com Farm & Table Farm & Table: Seasonally inspired, locally sourced. Opening 2012 in Albuquerque’s North Valley. Visit us at our website for Grand Opening Dates! farmandtablenm.com Flying Star Café Fine cuisine in a friendly scene. We’re your locally-owned neighborhood cafe serving made from scratch food, desserts and fresh roasted coffee. We’re open early and stay open late from breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in between. Diverse magazines and free Wi-Fi. 8 locations in Abq, family owned. 723 Silver Ave SW 505.244.8099 8001 Menaul Blvd NE 505.293.6911 3416 Central Ave SE 505.255.6633 4501 Juan Tabo NE 505.275.8311 4026 Rio Grande NW 505.344.6714 10700 Corrales Rd, 505.938.4717 8000 Paseo del Norte, 505.923.4211 200 S. Camino del Pueblo, Bernalillo 505.404.2100 Los Poblanos Inn Our cuisine is rooted in what comes from our farm as well as the New Mexico Rio Grande River Valley. Cuisine and ambiance reflect chef Jonathan Perno’s aesthetic, and the farm’s long established relationships with local farmers. Please check our website to see when the next dinner will be, or to book your own event or private dining experience: lospoblanos.com PRIME Gourmet sandwiches and delicatessen, fine wines by the bottle, beers and spirits, specialty cheeses and full-service butchery featuring prime cuts of beef and lamb. 6855 4th St NW, Los Ranchos, 505.890.9150, Daily 9am to 3pm yougottapassword.com www.ediblesantafe.com

Savoy Bar and Grill Savoy is a casual fine dining, locallyowned restaurant in Albuquerque’s Northeast Heights. Savoy has a full bar, extensive wine list, serves steaks, oysters, and fresh fish. We have a beautiful patio and lounge, featuring specials and a great happy hour daily. 10601 Montgomery Blvd Lunch: M-F 11-3, Dinner daily at 5. 505.294.9463 savoyabq.com Seasons Rotisserie & Grill Great food and wine with a seasonal flair. Enjoy our wood-fired steaks and seafood while sipping a glass of wine from our award winning wine list. Or, relax on our rooftop patio and enjoy our happy hour with a great view of Old Town, Albuquerque. Lunch: M-F 11:30-2:30, Dinner daily at 5. 2031 Mountain Rd., NW. 505.766.5100 seasonsabq.com The Grove Café & Market An artisan café serving breakfast, lunch and brunch. The Grove features local organic produce and products and always uses the highest quality seasonal ingredients available. Enjoy fine coffee, tea, wine and brunch cocktails and peruse our market for culinary gifts and favorite foodie items. Sunday brunch is a true taste of this bustling café scene. 600 Central Ave, SE 505.248.9800 Tues-Sat 7-4, Sun 8-3, Closed Mon thegrovecafemarket.com Vernon’s Hidden Valley Steakhouse & Black Diamond Lounge Voted Best Steakhouse by Albuquerque The Magazine & Top 50 Most Romantic Restaurants in the Nation by OpenTable.com! You gotta password? 6855 4th St. NW, Suite A, Los Ranchos, 505.341.0831. Open daily 4:30; Sunday brunch 11-2 yougottapassword.com Zinc Wine Bar and Bistro A three-level bistro in the heart of Nob Hill, Zinc features contemporary cuisine with a French flair. The intimate cellar bar serves a lighter menu with live music three nights a week. Serving lunch and dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails and tasty bar bites! 3009 Central Avenue, NE. 505.254.9462 Lunch T-F 11-2:30, Dinner daily at 5, Weekend brunch 11-2:30. zincabq.com (continued next page) 53

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Eat Local Guide your guide for best dining in NM SANTA FE

Andiamo We prepare the finest, local and seasonal ingredients a la minute with the utmost care and respect. Eating sustains more than the body, dining at Andiamo inspires conversation and evokes memories. We see Andiamo as a collective experience for people who love food, our staff is genuinely happy to work with our customers. At the end of the day, we want our guests to feel better for having eaten here. Across the street from the Railyard. 322 Garfield, 505.995.9595. Nightly 5:15 www.andiamoonline.com Annapurna Annapurna is a woman-owned vegetarian restaurant serving healing cuisine in Albuquerque since 2001 and Santa Fe since 2005. This premier organic establishment focuses on a made-from-scratch menu that is Ayurvedic (a healing system from India), vegan and gluten-free, including its own vegan and gluten-free bakery. 1620 Saint Michaels Dr., 505.988.9688 chaishoppe.com Café Pasqual’s In 1999 we received the James Beard America’s Regional Cooking Classics Award for a “timeless, grassroots restaurant that serves memorable food and is strongly embedded in the fabric of the community.” For thirty years we have been serving emphatically flavored cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of New Mexico, Old Mexico and Asia. We are dedicated to using fresh, seasonal, organic and naturally raised foods. 121 Don Gaspar, 505.983.9340 or 800.722.7672, Open Daily for lunch from 8-3, Sunday Brunch 8-3, Dinner nightly from 5:30pm. Flying Star Fine cuisine in a friendly scene. We’re your locally-owned neighborhood cafe serving made from scratch food, desserts and fresh roasted coffee. We’re open early and stay open late from breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in between. Diverse magazines and free Wi-Fi. 500 Market Street, next to the Railyard. 505.216.3939 Il Piatto Italian Farmhouse Kitchen Located One Block North of the Historic Santa Fe Plaza. Nationally acclaimed bustling trattoria featuring farm fresh, local produce, wine bar, private wine room, patio dining , Enoteca. House-made everything - award winning Chef. 95 west Marcy St, 505.984.1091 Lunch Mon–Sat, Dinner 7 nights, Enoteca 2-5 Mon-Sat ilpiattosantafe.com Jambo Check out the buzz! Chef Ahmed Obo’s subtle, East African-inspired cuisine has taken Santa Fe by storm. Try the Souper Bowl-winning peanut, chicken, coconut stew, stuffed phyllo, jerked chicken, succulent locally-raised goat or lamb, curries, wraps, more.

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2010 Cerrillos Road. 505.473.1269 Open Mon-Sat. 11am-9pm Menu atjambocafe.net Joe’s Dining Since 2002 Santa Fe’s largest purchaser of Farmers Market meats and produce, expertly prepared by European trained chef/owner. Mesquite grill, pizza, brunch, wine, beer. Excellent quality, exceptional value. 2801 Rodeo Rd. at Zia. 505.471-3800 T-Sun. 11:30 am-9 pm joesdining.com La Boca Chef/Owner James Campbell Caruso uses traditional and local ingredients to create both authentic and innovative Spanish and Mediterranean tapas, complemented by a dynamic and carefully selected wine and sherry list. Located just steps from the Santa Fe plaza, La Boca has the feel of a European wine bar, lively but intimate. Serving lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. 72 W Marcy St. 505.982.3433 labocasf.com La Casa sena A local favorite for over 27 years! Chef Gharrity features modern, sustainable cuisine, infused with Southwestern influences and fresh, local, seasonal ingredients. We also feature an awardwinning wine list. Located in the historic Sena plaza. 125 E. Palace Ave 505.988.5232. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3, Sun Brunch: 11-3, Dinner 5:30-10 nightly. www.lacasasena.com Museum Hill Café Museum Hill Café, a beautiful setting situated between two world class museums serves lunch daily. An eclectic menu, Asian Shrimp Tacos, Traditional Reuben, Roast Beef on Grilled Sourdough, Curried Lentil Salad, Cobb Salad, Wine & Beer, lots of free parking. 710 Camino Lejo. 505.984.8900. museumhill.org/dine The Palace Old world elegance meets creative, contemporary cuisine at this iconic Santa Fe eatery. Award winning chef Joseph Wrede crafts inspired seasonal menus that are complemented by a substantive wine selection and a slate of classic and craft cocktails. 142 W Palace Ave. 505.428.0690, Open Mon-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-Midnight, Sat. 4 pm-Midnight Menu palacesantafe.com Station House Café Serving the best coffee and espresso drinks in Santa Fe located in the historic Gross Kelly Warehouse track side at the Santa Fe Depot in the Railyard. Pastries, groumet sandwiches and all natural Taos Cow ice cream. Look for the red umbrellas! 530 S. Guadalupe in the Railyard. 505.988.2740. stationcoffeeandtea.com

www.ediblesantafe.com

Tree house Pastry & Cafe Named one of the country’s “Top 100 Farm to Table Restaurants” by Gourmet Magazine, this sweet neighborhood café has been serving all-organic, locally-sourced, vegetarian meals—as well as scrumptious cakes and pastries—since 2006. Family friendly, conveniently located just off Second St. 1600 Lena Street, A2. 505.474.5543. Tues-Sat 8:30am- 3:00pm. treehousepastry.com Vinaigrette A bright and lively bistro and wine bar in an historic adobe near downtown Santa Fe. Specializes in creative, gourmet entrée salads that highlight local and organic ingredients, including produce from the owner’s farm! 709 Don Cubero Alley, 505.820.9205 M – S 11am – 9pm, Closed Sun vinaigretteonline.com taos

Doc Martin’s, Taos Inn Doc Martin’s Restaurant is a true Taos tradition, an acclaimed dining establishment located in a registered historic landmark. Executive Chef Zippy White specializes in fresh local food with a splash of the southwest, sourcing from regional farms and gardens. With over 400 wine selections, our world class wine list has earned Wine Spectator’s “Best Of” Award of Excellence for twenty one consecutive years. 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. 575.758.2233 Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving brunch on Saturday and Sunday. taosinn.com

Tree House

El Meze Regionally inspired rustic New Mexican, Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine from Chef/Food Historian Frederick Muller. Dinner only Monday – Saturday 5:30pm to 9:30pm. Closed Sundays. Located in the historic El Torreon Hacienda. 1017 Paseo del Pueblo Norte (1.2 miles north of the TaosPlaza). 575.751.3337. elmeze.com

always local

all organic

breakfast

lunch and delightful

desserts

The Gorge Bar and Grill A fun and casual restaurant, perfect for a delicious meal or cocktails and appetizers to top off the day. The menu is straightforward and yet eclectic, chock full of favorites with the special twist of The Gorge. Every dish on the menu is made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible.. 103 East Taos Plaza Taos, 575.758.8866 thegorgebarandgrill.com

1600 Lena St. Santa Fe 505.474.5543

TreeHousePastry.com

Taos Diner and Taos Diner II Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown and organic breakfast, lunch and dinners. Glutenfree choices. Beer and wine. Many ingredients from local farms and ranches. Fair trade organic coffee, where the locals go! 908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575.758.2374 or Taos Diner II at 216B Paseo del Pueblo Sud, 575.751.1989.

Edible Communities readers across the country rely on Edible Eat Local Guides to find the restaurants and chefs that are committed to celebrating and bringing diners the very best in local food and drink. For more information on how you can be listed in Edible’s Eat Local Guide in print and online, please email Jill@ediblesantafe.com.

www.ediblesantafe.com

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Winter 2011

last bite

Food Rules: An Eater’s Manual illustrations and story by Maira Kalman

When Michael Pollan asked if I would like to illustrate this book, I said two things. First, YES. Absolutely YES. Second, that Cheezdoodles had a beloved place in our family history. He did not hold that against me. This is a great country. Vast. Complicated. With plenty of room for extremes. Everyone eats food. That is the universal connector. Life is fragile. Fleeting. What do we want? To be healthy. To celebrate and to

love and live life to the fullest. So here comes Michael Pollan with this little (monumental) book. A humanistic and smart book that describes a sane and happy world of eating. It asks us, gently, to hit the reset button on manufactured food and go back in time. I like going back in time. It gives me more time. To walk around and savor the world and the food in it.... — Maira Kalman

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Winter 2011

www.ediblesantafe.com

road food

TALUS WIND RANCH fr G ali om st Neweo, Mex ico

Embracing the rich tradition of New Mexico ranching, Talus Wind Ranch raises lambs on a free-range grazing environment ensuring that the animals are well-cared-for and resulting in meat that is tender and flavorful. To experience this local product and many others, please visit one of our Albuquerque or Santa Fe locations. ALBUQUERQUE:

SANTA FE:

Academy, 5815 Wyoming Blvd. NE Indian School Plaza, 2103 Carlisle Blvd. NE

Cerrillos, 753 Cerrillos Rd. St. Francis, 1090 S. St. Francis Dr.