Edible Santa Fe Early Winter Issue - Abundance

edible

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

SANTA FE 庐路 ALBUQUERQUE 路 TAOS The Story

of

Local Food, Season

Abundance A Seasonal Cookbook

by

Season

Issue 35 路 Early

winter

MASTERS OF CRAFTSMANSHIP

prull.com • 505.438.8005

Come in from the cold...

photo: C James Parsons

Building & Remodeling Award-Winning Custom Homes in Santa Fe since 1981

BANKING LOCAL Always in season.

(Root Vegetables, September - December)

FINANCING

contents

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MERCHANT SERVICES

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TRUST & INVESTMENTS

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I N T E R N AT I O N A L S E R V I C E S

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

Abundance

DEPARTMENTS Grist for the Mill PAGE 2

Contributors

On the Cover

PAGE 4

I'm a Local

Mulled Cider Photo by Stephanie Cameron Recipe on PAGE 72

Feed 4 More PAGE 6

Local Heroes

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PAGE 24

Eat Local Guide PAGE 66

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FEATURES Winter Recipes PAGE 8

Spring Recipes PAGE 26

Summer Recipes PAGE 38

Fall Recipes PAGE 52

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grist for the mill

PUBLISHERS Bite Size Media, LLC Stephanie and Walt Cameron

Happy holidays from edible.

EDITOR

For me, winter means more time with people I love. Specifically, I appreciate that the season affords many opportunities to cook and eat with friends and family. In that spirit, we have taken a different approach in the following pages. You will not find in-depth stories about issues that impact food production or heartwarming tales of community building. Instead, we called on some of our closest friends and most loyal supporters—cooks and farmers all—to contribute a recipe each. These recipes form a season-by-season cookbook of dishes rich in New Mexico ingredients.

Make no mistake, this issue, while different in content from its predecessors, was once again a labor of love. Our work began in convincing chefs and farmers, at the height of both of their seasons, to share a recipe. Over the course of four weekends, we shopped, harvested, diced, chopped, boiled, baked, braised, sautéed, and plated each and every recipe you will read in this issue. We appreciated and took great pleasure in the tips, tricks, and secrets chefs and farmers shared in each unique dish. At edible, we take pride in knowing each recipe we print is tested and each will work in your kitchen.

When we test our recipes, we typically prepare six to eight dishes and drinks in a home kitchen over the course of a day. While we have a few fancy kitchen tools, essentially, our kitchens are just like yours. The work is long and hard, but is often punctuated by good company with constructive criticism and great appetites. And, the results often provide delectable lunch for days. You can even ask our copyeditor, Margaret, who so graciously hosted us for one of these days.

After we prepare each item, we carefully plate or garnish it for its photo shoot. We also pride ourselves on photographing real food in its natural state. Like a healthy happy face does not need make-up to be beautiful, delicious food prepared from fresh, whole ingredients does not need to be doctored to appear appetizing. For this issue, there are no photo credits because Stephanie Cameron, our publisher, photographed all the food we cooked week after week in our test kitchens.

With this issue, we hope you will have friends over to help cook the more complicated recipes, or invite them over to enjoy those you can whip up on your own in a few minutes. We hope it inspires you to a year of cooking at home more often. Consider these pages a gift to help you spend more time exploring and enjoying the culinary bounty of New Mexico from the comfort of your own kitchen.

Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, Editor

Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers

Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Jodi L. Vevoda

COPY EDITORS Margaret Marti, Willy Carleton

DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron

PHOTOGRAPHY Chris Beric, Stephanie Cameron, Jen Judge

WEB AND SOCIAL MEDIA EDITORS Stephanie Cameron, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

ONLINE CONTRIBUTORS Ashlie Hughes, Joseph Mora, Nissa Patterson, Amy White

VIDEO PRODUCER D. Walt Cameron

ADVERTISING D. Walt Cameron, Gina Riccobono, Jodi L. Vevoda

CONTACT US: 3301-R Coors Boulevard NW #152 Albuquerque, NM 87120 info@ediblesantafe.com www.ediblesantafe.com Phone/Fax: 505-212-0791

SUBSCRIBE ∙ BUY AN AD ∙ LETTERS 505-212-0791 WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at INFO@EDIBLESANTAFE.COM Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible Santa Fe six times a year.

We distribute throughout Central and Northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually.

No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2014 All rights reserved.

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edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

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SANTA FE ®· ALBUQUERQUE · TAOS

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contributors VALERIE ASHE With her husband Jonathan, Valerie co-owns Thunderhead Farms in Bosque Farms, where she enjoys keeping bees and writing about food and wine.

ANDREA FEUCHT Once upon a time, Andrea Feucht woke up to the realization that she was obsessed with food. Her work appears locally and nationally, and her first book was published in October by Globe Pequot Press: "The Food Lovers' Guide to Santa Fe, Albuquerque and Taos." Find Andrea and her book at fb.me/foodloversnm.

ERIN FRYE Erin’s passion for sustaining small, natural food producers recently pulled her away from her city job and back to her roots. She is now combining ten years of business experience with two degrees in agriculture to start an agricultural consulting business and a journey she calls The Harvest Trail.

KATHERINE MAST Katherine Mast is a freelance science writer with a life-long love of all things growing. She has often kept earthworms as pets, collecting them as a child during spring garden planting, and employing them now in her compost bin in Santa Fe. KATHERINE MULLÉ Katherine Mullé is a writing student at UNM who loves New Mexico’s food and sunshine. She works at La Montañita Co-op and volunteers at

Animal Humane. In her spare time she can be found reading wellloved books, pouring over recipe blogs, jamming on her guitar, and daydreaming about travel.

NIKKI LYN PUGH Nikki Lyn Pugh is an educator, writer and self-proclaimed farmers market junkie living in Taos. Besides edible Santa Fe, her articles have appeared in the Taos News, E magazine, Vision, and HoneyColony.com, among others. When she is not writing articles or volunteering in the community, she is working on a novel set for publication next year. Visit her at www.nikkilynpugh.com.

MARJORY SWEET Marjory Sweet is native to coastal Maine and was drawn to the Southwest by its ancient history, desert wilderness, and the opportunity to work outside. She now manages Sterling Gardens, a four seasons farm in Albuquerque's South Valley. This winter promises heirloom French rabbit meat, winter greens, and experiments in raw goat’s milk.

SARAH WENTZEL-FISHER Sarah Wentzel-Fisher is the editor of edible Santa Fe. She also works at La Montañita Co-op, and for the National Young Farmers Coalition. In her free time she visits farms (she highly recommends this activity), experiments in her kitchen, and keeps chickens in her backyard.

recipe index BREAKFAST

SOUPS/STEWS

Sweet Sauteé on Sweet Potato Cakes 62

Butternut Squash Hash 60

Green Chile Stew 18

Terra Restaurant Beef Stroganoff 8

Green Chile Cheddar Ham Scones 10

Roasted Butternut Squash & Apple Bisque 54

Spring Hash 28

DESSERTS

Rustic Cauliflower Soup 34

Wild Mushroom Frittata 42

Winter Squash Posole 14

STARTERS

Heirloom Yellow Tomato Gazpacho 41

Amore Neapolitan Pizzeria's Bruschetta 40

MAIN DISHES

New Mexican Stuffed Squash Blossoms 46

Asian Summer Pesto 43

Prosciutto Artisan Cheese Wrap 30

Braised Duck Tamales 16

SALADS

Paella Mixta from Almería 47

Insalatadi Cavolo, Finocchio, e Pere 12

Poblanos Rellenos w/ Calabacitas con Maiz 56

Effen Good Cocktail 51

Grilled Peach Salad with Feta and Arugula 44

Red Chile Ravioli with Braised Duckling 52

Mulled Cider 72

Kale Salad with Oranges 32

Rosemary Braised Beef Short Ribs 55

Spring Martini 37

Off the Cob Salad 38

Spring Onions and Lamb Shanks 26

Whiskey in November 65

Roasted Beets with Pickled Hot Peppers 58

Steak and Wild Mushroom Summer Rolls 48

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Apple Tart Tatin 64 Candied Acorn Squash 22 Caramel Apple Crumble 20 No Nuts Carrot Cake 36 Raspberry Custard Kuchen 50

COCKTAILS

Don’t MISSSSS OUT! Join us for the final events presented in conjunction with Wooden Menagerie, celebrating the rich Hispano folk tradition of animal wood carving in New Mexico.

SUNDAY, JANUARY 25, 2015 2:00 – 4:00 PM “Hear them Roar: New Mexican Animal Carvers and Contemporary American Folk Art” · Panel discussion moderated by exhibition curator Andrew Cecil, with Michael Hall, Davis and Christine Mather, Luis Tapia, and Ron Archuleta Rodríguez

SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 15, 2015 1:00 – 4:00 PM FINAL DAY OF THE EXHIBITION! “Carving the Animal Kingdom” · Artist demonstrations by Arthur López, Gloria López Córdova, Ron Archuleta Rodríguez, and Jim Davila · Music by Jaime Martínez · Santa Fe Animal Shelter drawing for Angel Cat · Refreshments! this is open for possible ad from SFCA or it will be for subscription offer or could be a recipe index.

Jim Davila, Snakes, 1983, wood, paint. Photo by Blair Clark.

THROUGH FEBRUARY 15, 2015

On Museum Hill in Santa Fe (505) 476-1200 · InternationalFolkArt.org

Full Bellies, Warm Hearts FEED 4 MORE

By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher Photo by Chris Beric For every five people in New Mexico, one is food insecure. As the days get shorter, the weather colder, and holidays approach, this need increases and is felt more acutely. This year, as part of their Feed 4 More program, Whole Foods Market – Santa Fe will partner with The Food Depot to raise money to feed hungry families in Northern New Mexico, and Whole Foods Market – Albuquerque will partner with Albuquerque Rescue Mission and Rio Grande Food Project to feed hungry families in the city.

The Whole Foods Market Feed 4 More food drive, originally called Grab & Give, began seven years ago in the Whole Foods Market Rocky Mountain Region as a community effort to help ensure that local families in need have access to healthy meals. Since its inception, in the Rocky Mountain region alone, the program has raised more than $6.6 million, which has helped feed more than 836,597 families with an average of four members. This year, thirty-three Whole Foods Market locations around the region will join together with the goal of not just feeding families a holiday meal, but stocking pantries to provide good nutrition beyond the holidays.

The program is simple. Generous customers, like you, make a donation of five, ten, or twenty-five dollars at the register. Whole Foods uses these donations to fill grocery bags with food free of artificial colors, flavors, high-fructose corn syrup, preservatives, and hydrogenated fats. Whole Foods Market delivers the goods to the partner organizations like The Food Depot, Albuquerque Rescue Mission, and Rio Grande Food Project, who then ensure it reaches New Mexico families in need.

In Santa Fe last year, in addition to $95,429 in food donated by way of customer donations, The Food Depot received a monetary donation from Whole Foods Market in the amount of $34,286 to help further their mission of ending hunger in Northern New Mexico.

In 2013, The Food Depot distributed 4,827,818 pounds of food, providing approximately 6,437,090 meals to hungry New Mexicans through 135 partner agencies, like Whole Foods Market. They also worked with 906 volunteers for 10,891 hours—these hours are the equivalent of five full-time staff, at a value of $237,320. "The Food Depot is so grateful for the efforts of the Whole Foods Market team and the generosity of the Santa Fe community throughout the Feed 4 More initiative. The additional cash donation enabled The Food Depot to provide many more meals to children, seniors, and families in need,” says Jill Gentry, director of development of The Food Depot.

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This year, Whole Foods Market calls on Albuquerque and Santa Fe communities again to help ensure that everyone’s holidays include a healthy and delicious meal. “As a community, Santa Fe is tremendously generous; not only did we receive a single donation of $2500 from one good Samaritan [in 2013], Santa Fe was the fifth largest contributor in the Rocky Mountain Region of Whole Foods Market stores. That’s pretty impressive for a town of our size,” says Lisa Prior, store marketing specialist at Whole Foods Market – Santa Fe. Next time you shop, consider building a five, ten, or twenty-five dollar donation into your budget. Happy holidays! www.thefooddepot.org . www.abqrescue.org . www.rgfp.org

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Winter Terra Restaurant Beef Stroganoff ANDREW COOPER, TERRA AT FOUR SEASONS RESORT RANCHO ENCANTADO SANTA FE

By Nikki Lyn Pugh 8

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

“People demand to know where their food comes from,” says Santa Fe-based Terra Restaurant Executive Chef Andrew Cooper.

“There isn’t a day that goes by that a guest doesn’t ask if items are local, organic, or GMO/GEO free.”

Cooper, of course, is always prepared with an honest answer about the sources of his cuisine. Almost every ingredient that goes into the restaurant’s lively menu reflects the culinary heritage of New Mexico and is sourced locally.

“I love knowing where my food comes from and having a real connection with the farmers,” says Cooper. “Nothing is sitting in a box, waiting for the next barge or plane. At Terra, almost everything is grown within driving distance. Sometimes it’s under an hour from the ground to the restaurant.”

Cooper has formed intimate partnerships with a variety of notable area farms over the few short years he has been executive chef at Terra, which is located inside the elegant Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado. Some of these farms include Old Windmill Dairy, Romero Farms, Naturally New Mexico Food, and Lone Mountain Wagyu Beef. The restaurant has a working garden on their grounds and Cooper, who also volunteers with local organizations Cooking with Kids and The Food Depot, takes guests on frequent tours of farms and gardens in the Rio Grande Valley.

In addition, he often leads culinary adventure tours to the farms and farmers markets that Terra does business with. Cooper cut his sustainable cooking chops while working with Four Seasons on the Big Island of Hawaii. Through his experiences with farmers and restaurant clientele there, he learned that the use of local products by restaurants is not only necessary for a region environmentally, but also a win-win economically.

“Having a vibrant, local food system and a healthy local economy is beneficial to everyone because we are putting the money back into the community,” says Cooper. “If restaurants are using local ingredients that customers demand, the restaurants make money as well as the local farmers.”

TERRA RESTAURANT BEEF STROGANOFF Serves 4 A guest favorite, Terra's Beef Stroganoff has delighted diners since Chef Andrew Cooper introduced the hearty menu item. Unlike a traditional stroganoff, this dish is a diagram of the key flavors, dissected on the plate, and transformed on the tongue. Prepare the crème fraiche, dill oil, and mushroom puree the day before you will serve this dish.

Crème Fraiche 1 cup heavy cream 2 tablespoons buttermilk In a clean pint jar, combine cream and buttermilk. Cover with parchment or cheesecloth, and set on the counter in a warm place over night.

Dill Oil 1/2 cup oil 1 cup fresh dill Place 1 cup of fresh dill in a blender with 1/2 cup of oil and puree until smooth and bright green. Strain mixture through a colander so the dill pieces are held back. For the best result, use a coffee filter to strain the oil. Reserve.

Mushroom Puree 1 pound oyster mushrooms 1 clove garlic 1 tablespoon oil In a skillet over medium-high heat, sauté whole oyster mushrooms in a tablespoon of oil. When browned, add 1 tablespoon of fresh chopped garlic for a minute more. Set aside the prettiest half of the mushrooms for plating. Season the other half of the mushrooms with salt and pepper, then puree in a blender until smooth. Reserve both.

Red Wine Sauce 1 cup red wine 2 cups beef stock 2 tablespoons butter In a heavy bottom pan over medium high heat, reduce the wine by half. Slowly add the beef stock, and reduce to 1 cup in volume.

Whisk in butter. Set aside.

Spaetzle 1 cup all-purpose flour 1/4 cup milk 2 eggs

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 pinch freshly ground white pepper 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 gallon hot water 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Mix together flour, salt, white pepper, and nutmeg.

Beat eggs well, and add alternately with the milk to the dry ingredients. Mix until smooth.

Over boiling water, press dough through a spaetzle maker or a large holed sieve or metal grater, about one inch of spaetzle at a time.

Cook until the spaetzle floats to the surface.

Remove with a slotted spoon into a bowl. Toss with a tablespoon of olive oil. Set aside.

The following steps will need to happen in rapid succession, so be sure to have all your ingredients ready.

1 pound strip steak (Lone Mountain Wagyu if available)

Salt and pepper Heat grill to high. Season steaks with salt and pepper. Place on grill and cook the steak about 4 minutes on each side to a perfect medium rare; the internal temperature should be 125º F. Allow the steak to rest for 5 minutes before slicing.

Warm up the mushroom puree in a small sauté pan.

In a sauté pan on high heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. When butter has finished bubbling, but before it browns, add spaetzle.

Sauté spaetzle until it has a nice golden color and nutty aroma. Sprinkle fresh parsley on top and season with salt and pepper.

To plate, place 4 12-inch plates in front of you. Spoon mushroom puree in a straight line across each plate. Place a spoon of the spaetzle on top of the puree. Shingle the sliced steaks over the top of the spaetzle.

Garnish with a couple pieces of the whole oyster mushrooms. Spoon 5 little dots of crème fraiche all around the plate. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the dill oil around the plate for color. Spoon 1 teaspoon of the red wine sauce over the meat. Garnish with fresh dill or parsley and serve.

Terra Restaurant at Four Seasons Resort 198 State Road 592, Santa Fe 505-946-5800 · fourseasons.com/santafe WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

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Green Chile Cheddar Ham Scones ANDREA SCHULTE, NEW MEXICO PIE COMPANY

By Valerie Ashe

During the New Mexico growing season, Andrea’s baked goodies are a fixture at Albuquerque’s most populated farmers markets, where Schulte says she feels that the company is an integral part of a healthy, local food economy. Schulte believes that fresh, local ingredients add not only to the quality and taste of her pastries, but also to the story behind each item. More places to find these stories, baked right into a light, fluffy crust or cookie: Humble Coffee (4200 Lomas Boulevard NE) and Espresso Fino (222 Gold Avenue SW)— both in Albuquerque—and directly from the company’s website, www.nmpiecompany.com.

Gluten-free options available.

GREEN CHILE CHEDDAR HAM SCONES Serves 4 – 6 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons

all-purpose flour 1 3/4 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon sea salt Pinch cayenne powder 6 ounces cold butter, diced 2 eggs, beaten lightly 3 ounces cold heavy cream 1/4 pound sharp cheddar, diced 1/4 pound hot green chile, drained 1/4 pound Black Forest ham, diced Egg wash*

A regular vendor at the Albuquerque Downtown Growers Market and the Albuquerque Rail Yards Market, New Mexico Pie Company offers a vast selection of baked goods, from pies and tarts to quiches, wedding cakes, cookies, and French macarons (delicate meringue cookies in a range of flavors: salted caramel, pistachio, grand marnier, and others). The company supports other local businesses and farms by using as many locally grown and produced ingredients as possible for its baked goods, such as its popular caramel apple New Mexico green chile pie.

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Prior to launching New Mexico Pie Company, pastry chef and owner Andrea Schulte baked her way through pastry and culinary school (she is a graduate of the esteemed Johnson and Wales University in Charleston, South Carolina), into Disney World in Orlando, Florida, fine dining establishments and resorts in the Southwest, and even a stage at Thomas Keller’s Napa Valley restaurant, The French Laundry. Schulte’s handmade baked goods have graced tables at weddings, wineries, and various events, and are also now available at the New Mexico Pie Company storefront in Albuquerque.

Preheat the oven to 375O F. Line a large cookie sheet with parchment. Combine the flour, baking powder, sea salt, and cayenne.

Mix well. Add the cold butter and mix on low until butter is pea sized. In a separate bowl, mix together the cheddar, chile, and ham. Add the cheddar mixture and briefly mix. Add the heavy cream and mix just until all are incorporated. On floured parchment, gently form dough into a 1-inch thick rectangle or circle. Cut to desired size and brush with egg wash. Bake until golden brown and slightly firm to touch, 18 – 20 minutes. *Beat 2 tablespoons water into 1 egg.

New Mexico Pie Company 4003 Carlisle Boulevard NE, Albuquerque 505-884-3625 · www.nmpiecompany.com

Resolve To Conserve

Make conserving water one of your New Year’s resolutions.

It’s easier than losing weight and a lot easier than quitting smoking. You’ll save money on your water bill and help your community and your planet. For tips, visit savewatersantafe.com.

Save Water Santa Fe Saving Water Is Always in Season City of Santa Fe Water Conservation Office 505.955.4225 savewatersantafe.com

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Insalatadi Cavolo, Finocchio, e Pere PETER LUKES, PIATTINI

By Katherine Mullé

“It was our goal to bring community together, which also includes buying locally sourced products.” Piattini crafts their small plate creations using delicious ingredients from local and organic farmers. And while the Lukes support local growers, they also have plans to provide Piattini with produce grown in their very own gardens by farming their own land.

“Keeping it local is more than just an idea for us—we really want to support our community and smaller businesses, which is who and what we are!”

INSALATADI CAVOLO, FINOCCHIO, E PERE (Kale, Fennel, and Pear Salad) Serves 8 – 10 Salad 7 cups kale, finely shredded 1 cup fennel bulb, finely shredded 2 cups pear, julienned 1/3 cup carrot, grated 1/3 cup red onion, finely sliced Dressing 1 large egg yolk 4 teaspoons white wine vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup sunflower or canola oil 1/4 cup hazelnut oil 1/2 cup sour cream 1/2 teaspoon ground fennel seed Pinch of sugar and black pepper In a large mixing bowl, toss together kale, fennel, carrot, pear, and onion.

Piattini, which means “little plates” in Italian, is the creation of husband and wife team Pete and Maggie Lukes. Their love of travel and their love of food inspired the creation of their restaurant. “We have found that our most enjoyable and memorable dining experiences have been where we were able to order many small plates with just a few perfect bites of food that we could share.” Thus, Piattini, a restaurant known for crafting small plate creations from fresh and wholesome ingredients, was born.

flow abundantly, bringing family, friends, and the community together. They know firsthand how food has a way of connecting people.

“Because we also have kids, this style of dining meant that we were able to introduce new things to them in a way that brought us all together as a family. Sharing food and experiences made our connections to one another stronger and more meaningful.” Just as this style of dining has helped to bring together the Lukes’ own family, it is their hope that Piattini will be a place for their community to do the same.

In Piattini, the Lukes envisioned a neighborhood spot where food and drinks would

Of course, bringing community together doesn’t just mean bringing people together.

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In a food processor whisk egg yolk, vinegar, and salt until thoroughly blended. With processor running, slowly add oil until the mixture thickens. Add sour cream, fennel seed, sugar, and pepper, then pulse. The dressing can be made in advance and stored in the refrigerator until needed.

Add dressing to shredded vegetables and fruit and toss until well combined. Cover and chill for 30 minutes prior to serving.

Piattini 1403 Girard Boulevard NE, Albuquerque 505-792-1700 · www.piattininm.com

Indulge

Your Inner Carnivore From the perfect prime rib for your holiday celebrations to leaner selections for your January resolutions, we will hand cut to feed your cravings.

You can shop at a grocery store, or you can shop at Kaune’s.

511 Old Santa Fe Trail | Mon - Sat 8:00am - 6:50pm 505.982.2629 | Follow Us on for Specials

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Winter Squash Posole NICOLE AMMERMAN AND SUSAN CURTIS, SANTA FE SCHOOL OF COOOKING

By Nikki Lyn Pugh Photo by Jen Judge Susan Curtis and Nicole Curtis Ammerman have a lot to be proud of these days.

The powerhouse mother-daughter team will celebrate twenty-five years of running the internationally recognized Santa Fe School of Cooking this December. Curtis, who grew up on a working ranch along the banks of the Snake River in rural Idaho, is founder of the school. Ammerman brought her business and marketing expertise to the family-run enterprise in 1993 and is the school’s current director of operations. The two will honor the anniversary of their enterprise by the publication of a new cookbook, Celebrating the Food of New Mexico, photography by Jen Judge 14

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and published by Gibbs Smith. Their savory winter squash posole, featured here, is from the new book.

“The mission of the Santa Fe School of Cooking has always been to promote local food, farming, and culture. We were one of the first in the country to promote local,” say Curtis and Ammerman, who currently have some of the region’s top chefs, including Chef de Cuisine Noe Cano and local Native American foods historian, culinary anthropologist, and chef Lois Ellen Frank, as instructors at the school. The co-business owners also run a small market adjacent to their teaching kitchen.

What they love most about local food is the sensory qualities—the sights, smells, and, most importantly, the flavors. They have also seen interest in New Mexican–grown products blossom over the two and a half decades they have been in business in Santa Fe. This growth is evidenced by the recent proliferation of specialty products, such as locally produced beer and wine, which the duo say, were in their infancy when they first started out.

This interest by the public, as well as local producers, is essential to Santa Fe School of Cooking. “Without farmers and food processors producing local products, we would not have a viable business.”

WINTER POSOLE Serves 4 – 6

Book your Compound Holiday Party Today!

Posole 3 cups posole corn 1 – 2 cups pumpkin or butternut

squash, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1/4 cup vegetable oil 1 medium yellow onion, diced 1 teaspoon sage, ground 1 tablespoon Mexican oregano 8 large garlic cloves, finely chopped 3/4 cup chopped roasted green chile 1/2 cup white wine 2 quarts chicken stock 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar Salt and pepper

Special Corporate Discounts available!

Garnish Sour cream Green onions, diagonally slivered

Lunch • Dinner • Bar

Soak posole overnight in 3 inches of water. Drain the posole and transfer it to a large pot. Cover the posole with fresh water and simmer until tender and it begins to open up or "bloom," about 2 hours.

Reservations 505.982.4353 653 Canyon Road compoundrestaurant.com

Preheat the oven to 425O F. Peel the squash and remove the seeds.

Cut into 1/2-inch cubes, then toss with 2 tablespoons of oil until well coated. Season with salt and pepper. Spread on a shallow baking sheet covered with parchment. Roast until tender and golden brown in spots. Remove and set aside to cool.

In a large pot over medium heat, heat 1/4 cup vegetable oil. Add onion, oregano, and sage. Sauté until onions are translucent, about 3 – 4 minutes. Add garlic, stir to combine and cook for 2 minutes.

Add the green chile and white wine. Simmer until wine is reduced almost completely. Add the posole and stock to the pot, turn heat up to medium high, simmering for about 20 minutes to infuse flavors. Remove from heat.

To serve, add the squash back to the pot and add apple cider vinegar, salt, and black pepper to taste. Heat about 5 minutes until the stew is heated through. Serve in warm bowls and garnish with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkling of green onions.

photo: Kitty Leaken

Rasa Rasa is a modern juice bar and vegan café, offering organic plant based foods and cold pressed juices as well as innovative detox and cleansing programs that reflect the most current perspective from the Ayurveda, conscious eating and live food movements.

SANTA FE SCHOOL OF COOKING CELEBRATES TWENTY-FIVE YEARS Wish the Santa Fe School of Cooking a happy birthday. SFFC invites you to a public party to celebrate twenty-five years. They will unveil a new cookbook, Celebrating the Foods of New Mexico on December 13. Santa will be on hand, as well as music, cookie decorating, and their famous handmade tamales—a Santa Fe Christmas tradition.

Santa Fe School of Cooking 125 North Guadalupe Street, Santa Fe (505) 983-4511 · www.santafeschoolofcooking.com

cold pressed juice super food smoothies vegan glutenfree desserts cookies & pies cultured vegan cheeses and yogurt raw breads and crackers plant based entreés soups and pizza ayurvedic consultations herbs and treatments cleanse and detox

815 Early Street

505 989 1288

www.rasajuice.com

Photo by Genevieve Russell at Story Portrait Media

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Braised Duck Tamales SEAN SINCLAIR, FARM & TABLE

By Erin Frye

Farm & Table, owned and operated by Cherie Austin, lives up to its name. In addition to sourcing ingredients from an onsite ten-acre farm (saved from development by Austin’s father), the restaurant also works with over fifty local farmers, ranchers, dairies, and food artisans. Austin, who was born and raised in the same valley as the restaurant, is deeply rooted in the restaurant's day-to-day operations. She works with head chef, Sean Sinclair, to create menus that reflect and utilize seasonal ingredients, “Our team of culinary artists work collaboratively to create a menu that changes month to month, week to week, and even day to day... always featuring the best of our local availability. Every dish is special and made with love!”

Austin also explains how working with local producers creates more than a menu with local items, it’s a sustainable cycle. “When 16

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

farmers produce, Farm & Table creates. When we create, guests appreciate. When guests appreciate, Farm & Table thrives—and then we can begin to push the local food movement forward and continue to support this reciprocity in which we all prosper. Local food is a win-win for all involved,” says Austin. In addition to serving finely crafted food from seasonal ingredients, Austin, by way of the space the farm and restaurant offer, hosts a wide array of community events, fostering cross disciplinary collaboration between artists, leaders, entrepreneurs, and others. Her appreciation for local food is rooted in appreciation for those who produce the meat, cheese, fruits, and vegetables she sources for the restaurant. “Food that is grown and raised nearby by loving hands and hearts tastes delicious, is nutritious, and is good for our local economy. It's that simple...and wonderful!”

BRAISED DUCK TAMALES Recipe makes 24 – 30 tamales Tamales are New Mexico's ultimate labor of love! This recipe is a fun twist on the traditional dish, pork carne tamales.

Masa 4 1/2 cups masa harina, such as Maseca 3 3/4 cups cold water 1 1/2 cups cold lard or vegetable shortening 1 tablespoon salt Filling 3 pounds duck legs and thighs 1 white onion 1 cinnamon stick 4 allspice berries 4 juniper berries 1 dash nutmeg 1 bottle of sherry 3 1/4 cups water

W IN E BI S T R O

Open Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Years Eve! Lunch and Dinner Everyday 304 Johnson St, Santa Fe 505-989-1166 • terracottawinebistro.com

For assembly 1 pack of hojas (corn husks) 1 gallon bucket Place the water, lard, salt, and masa harina into a mixing bowl. Mix with an electric mixer on medium speed until the dough becomes uniform. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 48 hours.

In a heavy-bottom stockpot, brown the duck meat and put aside.

Sauté the onion in the rendered duck fat and deglaze with 3/4 of the sherry. Place the duck meat and the spices back into the pot and cover with water. Bring the braising liquid up to a boil, cover with foil, and place in a 325O F oven. Cook for 2 1/2 hours or until tender. Pour yourself a glass of sherry and enjoy until the duck meat is finished.

Remove the cooked duck from the oven and allow to cool. Strain the fat off the braising liquid. Reduce the liquid by half. (Save the duck fat and use like butter for cooking.) Pick the meat from the bone and discard the duck bones. Combine the reduced braising liquid and the picked duck meat.

Place hojas in the bucket and cover with warm water until pliable.

Take about a 1/4 cup masa dough and spread it uniformly 1/2-inch thick onto a cornhusk. Place about 3 tablespoons duck meat in the middle of the spread masa. Roll the hoja to encase the meat in the masa, then tie the ends off with strips torn from another hoja.

Repeat until you run out of ingredients.

Place a vegetable steamer at the bottom of a large stockpot over several inches of water. Place tamales in the steamer over medium high heat for 1 – 1 1/2 hours, adding water periodically to ensure the pot does not burn. Serve hot with red chile or other favorite condiments.

Farm & Table 8917 Fourth Street NW, Albuquerque 505-503-7124 · www.farmandtablenm.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

17

Green Chile Stew KY QUINTANILLA, LAMBERT'S OF TAOS

By Nikki Lyn Pugh

season in Taos, the elevation and six months of freezing temperatures remain challenges for local growers. During the cold months, however, are when Quintanilla’s creativity, as well as his zen-like attitude, come in handy.

“Sometimes people will show up at the back door and say ‘Hey, I have all these carrots.

Do you want some? And I will say sure!” says Quintanilla. He loves the challenge, and supporting his neighbors.

GREEN CHILE STEW Serves 8 – 10 4 tablespoons olive oil 2 cups white onion, diced 1 bulb garlic, peeled and minced 1 pound ground pork shoulder 1 1/2 cups heavy smoked bacon, diced

and partly cooked 1 tablespoon ground cumin 1 tablespoon ground coriander 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon crushed red chile 4 tablespoons green chile powder 2 quarts chicken stock 2 pounds roasted green chile, diced 3 cups russet potatoes, peeled and diced 3 cups fresh sweet corn 1/2 cup butter 1/2 cup flour Anyone who knows Ky Quintanilla, executive chef at Lambert’s restaurant in Taos, will tell you that he is about as easy-going as they come. But don’t let the low-key demeanor fool you. The versatile offerings that have come out of Lambert’s kitchen are as lively as a Taos Mountain snowstorm. In 2013, Lambert’s took over the hundred-year-old building on Bent Street that was home to the Apple Tree restaurant for more than two decades. With a brand new kitchen and a multi-leveled dining area that doubles the restaurant’s previous capacity, Quintanilla knew the time was right to change things up a bit.

“When we moved to the new place, it enabled me to do a totally different kind of cuisine,” explains Quintanilla, who has been Lambert’s executive chef for the last six years.

One of the changes included adding a mod18

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

erately-priced New Mexican-inspired lunch menu to the restaurant’s normal fair. Another was growing the network of local farmers that Lambert’s uses. “[Using local food] enhances our cuisine a lot,” says Quintanilla, who uses over fifty percent Taos-grown produce and other products during the growing season. “I notice the flavor.” Using produce such as tomatoes and green beans that are harvested at the right time and served within hours, not days, of being picked is key to the signature freshness of Lambert’s cuisine. “These days commercial produce is so green because they pick it early hoping it will last longer,” explains Quintanilla. “But this doesn’t let it develop its flavor like local [produce] that is picked when it needs to be.“ Quintanilla says that although advanced greenhouse techniques extend the growing

In heavy bottomed soup pot over mediumhigh heat, bring oil to temperature. Add onions and sauté until slightly transparent. Stir in garlic. Add bacon and cook for about 3 minutes. Add pork shoulder and a pinch or 2 of salt. When the meat begins to crumble, add dry spices. Once the mixture becomes aromatic, add chicken stock, roasted green chile, potatoes, and sweet corn. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 1 hour.

In a skillet over medium heat, melt butter.

Stir in flour and continue to cook for 3 – 5 minutes. Add this mixture to the stew and stir until dissolved. Season to taste and simmer stew for thirty minutes more.

Serve with fresh salsa and cheddar.

Lambert's of Taos 123 Bent Street, Taos 575-758-1009 · www.lambertsoftaos.com

wonderful things for your nest

www.magpietaos.com | 781-248-0166

Farmhouse CafĂŠ and Bakery

Organic, Local, and Fresh

sourced from over 20 local farms and ranches 575-758-LOVE | farmhousecafeandbakery.com

Enjoy breathtaking views, shopping, and dining at the most beautiful place in Taos fine sheepskin, leather,quality footwear & more

3 miles North of Taos WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM Plaza on Highway 6419

Caramel Apple Crumble WENDY BORGER, RASA JUICE BAR

By Katherine Mast

vegan food to the menu. She enjoys featuring seasonal produce. Borger says it’s the best way to get delicious, vibrant food on your plate, and seasonal, local eating falls right in line with Ayurvedic principles. “Nature is smarter than we are,” she says. “People want heavier food [in winter], and that’s what’s available.” Whether it’s peaches on the menu in late summer or the scent of green chile roasting, connecting seasonally with produce is an important part of being in a place, says Borger. “Enjoying local food is essential to our sense of belonging where we are, and our relationship to our environment.

In addition to a variety of fresh juices, RASA’s menu also includes cooked plant based entreés, soups and salads, cheeses and yogurt, breads and crackers, chocolates, ice creams, and other desserts. Borger enjoys the creative process of preparing new foods, and delights in making food that people with allergies can enjoy. She creates cupcakes that sidestep a myriad of sensitivities and comfort foods to replace their traditional counterparts. The business continues to expandfrom juice bar to daytime café, RASA will soon add Friday evening hours as well.

CARAMEL APPLE CRUMBLE Serves 8 – 10 This raw, vegan wonderful recipe combines tart apples with the sweetness of toffee and a spiced nut crumble. It's perfect on a chilly afternoon with coffee or tea or served as a light dessert after a winter meal.

Shortbread crust 2 cups cashew flour* 1/2 cup shredded coconut 2 tablespoons agave or maple syrup 2 tablespoons maple sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon salt Before Wendy Borger began preparing food for customers at RASA Juice Bar, she prescribed it as medicine as a clinical Ayurvedic specialist. “In Ayurveda, the first thing you treat is digestion,” she explains.

“Diet is really essential to any kind of longevity, deep practice, and vibrancy.” With her knowledge of Ayurveda and experience as a yoga instructor, Borger honed her skills 20

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

in raw, vegan food preparation in culinary school in Santa Monica, California. Ayurveda, yoga, and raw, vegan diets are sister sciences, she says.

When Borger first opened RASA, the store only served juice, packing a dense variety of nutrients into a glass serving. Since then, she has added other raw and cooked

For the crust, blend in a food processor until well mixed cashew flour, coconut, salt, and maple sugar. Add liquid sweetener and vanilla by pulsing the mixture until just combined.

Press into a springform cake pan or a terrine with removable sides. Freeze. *Make cashew flour in your blender, being careful not to over process as it gets buttery quickly.

Caramel 1 1/2 cups soaked dates 1/2 cup coconut water 2 tablespoons coconut oil 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 teaspoon mesquite Pinch salt For the filling, begin with the caramel. Blend all the ingredients until smooth in a food processor. Layer over shortbread crust and return to freezer until well set.

Apples 6 – 8 medium tart apples 1/2 cup agave or maple syrup 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon garam masala 1 teaspoon nutmeg Pinch salt Peel and core apples, then slice thinly. Combine the other filling ingredients in a bowl. Toss the apples in the mixture to season.

Dehydrate for about an hour or so at 115O F to slightly soften the apples. You can use your oven on its lowest temp for this if you don't have a dehydrator. (Your dessert won't be strictly raw if you heat the apples over 115O F).

Crumble 2 cups almonds 2 cups pecans or walnuts* 6 tablespoons maple sugar 3 teaspoons cinnamon 2 teaspoons nutmeg Pinch ground cloves 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons vanilla 1 teaspoon lemon zest 1/3 cup soft medjool dates (pitted) 1 tablespoon coconut oil, melted

M

IDTOWN bistro

We love to see your smiling faces

Join us for brunch, every Sunday 11am-3pm.

Open Monday - Saturday Lunch 11am - 2:30pm | Dinner 5pm - 9pm Book your private party or special event with us.

Call for details 901 West San Mateo • Santa Fe, NM reservations: 505•820•3121 MIDTOWNBISTROSF.COM

In your food processor, pulse nuts, maple sugar and spices until combined, but still chunky. Add remaining ingredients and process, keeping the mixture crumbly. *Nuts can be soaked and dehydrated prior to use for ease of digestion.

Assemble Top the frozen shortbread crust and caramel layer with a layer of the spiced apples, add a layer of the crumble, another layer of apples, and end with the crumble on top, pressing firmly.

Return to the freezer for about an hour to set. Remove from the freezer and bring to room temperature before serving. Serve with your favorite vanilla ice cream (vegan if possible!)

RASA Juice Bar 815 Early Street, Santa Fe 505-989-1288 · www.rasajuice.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

21

Candied Acorn Squash JONATHAN PERNO, LA MERIENDA AT LOS POBLANOS HISTORIC INN & ORGANIC FARM

By Erin Frye The Los Poblanos Historic Inn is a special place rooted in history, fostered by tourism, and dedicated to community. The inn was originally designed in 1932 by famed Southwestern architect John Gaw Meem for Congressman Albert Simms and his wife Ruth.

In 1976, Penny and Armin Rembe purchased the property from the Simms, and their son, Matt now continues the legacy managing the inn.

22

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

At the heart of the inn, and of the Rembes’ mission, is a working farm that provides raw materials for the lavender products sold at the onsite farm shop, as well as feeds La Merienda, the Los Poblanos restaurant.

La Merienda offers a small, but dramatically picturesque dining space immediately overlooking their gardens and lavender fields, all framed by a dramatic view of the Sandia Mountains. Like most spaces at the

inn, the kitchen has kept its historic flavor with old ovens and tight quarters. But Jonathan Perno, executive chef at La Merienda, thrives in this atmosphere.

On any given day, you can find Perno riding his bike to work, and stopping to forage lambs quarters or wild asparagus for that evening’s menu. A native New Mexican, Jonathan trained at the California Culinary Academy and spent time in a multitude of high

profile kitchens throughout the US. His resume also includes the requisite European culinary tour, and a return visit to work at La Tante Claire in London. In addition, he spent a year in Berkeley, California, at an organic farm learning raised bed farming.

Perno is the perfect fit for Los Poblanos. His first few months at the inn found him doing everything from harvesting honey for his homemade chocolates to preparing a six-course meal for an anniversary dinner for seventy-five people. Perno is fiercly committed to a farm-to-table philosophy, the slow food movement, and developing a hyper-regional culinary vocabulary. While he’s absolutely content to let the fresh ingredients take all the credit, Perno has already impressed the most critical of foodies with his own unique perspective on food.

CANDIED ACORN SQUASH Serves 6 Candied Acorn Squash 1 large acorn squash, washed, stem removed 3 cups sugar 3 cups water 1 teaspoon salt Crème Brûlée 4 1/4 cups heavy cream 6 egg yolks 2/3 cup sugar 3 vanilla bean pods, seeds only 1 tablespoon coarse sea salt for garnish For this recipe, you will need 6 ramekins and a brûlée torch.

Halve squash pole to pole. Remove seeds, then cut into 12 segments. Place in 4-quart saucepan with water, sugar, and regular salt. Bring to boil and simmer until soft and translucent. Cut as desired and place on parchment. Save syrup for another use.

For the crème brûlée, preheat oven to 275O F. In a large bowl, mix egg, vanilla, and sugar together. Stir in cream. Pour through a strainer to remove fibrous parts of vanilla. Fill ramekins with crème, then place them in a 2-inch deep baking pan filled halfway with hot water. Cover pan with foil and carefully place in oven.

After 45 minutes, remove foil, rotate pan, and cook for another 30 minutes until set on the sides but still wobbly in the middle.

Remove from oven and cool in the pan.

Top crème brûlées with an even layer of sugar, don’t skimp. Using a propane torch, melt and caramelize the sugar, rotating and tilting each ramekin to evenly distribute the caramel across the top.

Garnish with a piece or 2 of candied squash on top and sprinkle with sea salt.

La Merienda at Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm 4803 Rio Grande Boulevard NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque 505-344-9297 · www.lospoblanos.com

Celebrating the region's best loved food leaders.

Recently, edible Santa Fe readers voted online for a fresh crop of Local Heroes.

These are the farmers, chefs, organizations, shops, and artisans who fuel New Mexico's food world and keep the region's diners, home cooks, and aspiring food professionals awash in fresh inspiration season after season. This year's winners include names you've long known and some lesser-known resources that may become your new favorites.

CHEF: ANDREW COOPER, TERRA Andrew Cooper, executive chef of Terra at the Four Season’s Rancho Encantado, brings his own special brand of enthusiasm, passion, and culinary prowess to his cooking. His work at Terra and in the community radiate with an infectious love for local food.

MIXOLOGIST: DEBORAH FLEIG, IZANAMI As one of only thirty women in the world who is a certified sake sommelier, Deborah Fleig brings a unique lens to mixology. She serves her cocktail creations infused with love for Japanese cuisine at izanami.

RESTAURANT: FARM & TABLE Cherie Austin, Sean Sinclair, and Ric Murphy lead the collaborative team that makes Farm & Table both a sublime place to go for brunch or dinner and a shining example of community building.

BEVERAGE ARTISAN (NON-ALCOHOLIC) - RASA JUICE BAR Wendy Borger is the owner of RASA Juice Bar in Santa Fe and is a clinical Ayurveda specialist. Her perspectives on food and wellness, as well as her amazing raw juices, are rooted in the long-term study of hatha yoga, Ayurveda, and the plant-based food movement.

CAFÉ: BOCADILLOS Marie Yniguez and her team have transformed the lunch tray. Her catering feeds hundreds of Albuquerque school children, and her slow roasted meats make delicious sandwiches for any Burqueño.

PUB: SECOND STREET BREWERY Second Street Brewery opened in 1996, and since has provided top-notch craft beer to Santa Fe. They have brewed over three million pints of beer (over fifty pints for each person living in Santa Fe) with the bright, rich, complex, and satisfying flavors that you can only get from a handcrafted beverage.

FARM: CAMINO DE PAZ SCHOOL & FARM Patricia Pantano and her dedicated teaching staff engage the intellects, spirits, hands, and bodies of seventh, eighth, and ninth graders on a working farm producing heirloom organic vegetables and a variety of delicious goat milk products.

FOOD ORGANIZATION: COOKING WITH KIDS The heart of Cooking with Kids is positive experience with healthy foods. Since Lynn Walters founded the organization in 1995, arguably, the culinary IQ of Santa Fe is significantly higher after two decades of Cooking with Kids.

FOOD ARTISAN: SAGE BAKEHOUSE Andrée Falls and Amy Cox operate one of the longest running artisan bakeries in Santa Fe. They bake hundreds of exquisite loaves everyday that they sell through their store front on Cerrillos Road and through a variety of retail locations throughout the state.

BEER/WINE/SPIRITS: MARBLE BREWERY A champion of the craft beer movement, Marble Brewery, took home from the Great American Beer Festival the Small Brewing Company of the Year and Small Brewing Company Brewer of the Year awards this year. Not to mention, they serve a rock-solid SantainFe | EARLY WINTER 2014 selection ofedible craft beer three locations in Albuquerque and Santa Fe. 24

FOOD TRUCK: BANG BITE Bang Bite, a bright orange trailer with a shiny stainless interior, is owned and operated

by Chef Enrique Guerrero. Guerrero has a love of food that’s been with him since he was a young boy eating his great-great grandmother’s cooking. He and his crew serve the very best food they can cook up and deliver it to longtime food lovers throughout Santa Fe.

FOOD WRITER: JUSTIN DE LA ROSA Since 2011 as a correspondent for the Local iQ, Justin de la Rosa has written current commentary on the restaurant industry in New Mexico by conducting interviews with chefs and restaurant owners, and by attending events, dinners, and restaurant openings.

RETAILER (SPECIALTY): FARM SHOP @ LOS POBLANOS The Farm Shop at Los Poblanos features their classic spa products crafted with lavender grown on site. Their commitment to local craftspeople show in their selection of artisan foods, gourmet kitchen and garden tools, New Mexican made gifts, books, and more.

RETAILER (GROCERY): LA MONTAÑITA CO-OP La Montañita Co-op offers fresh, fair, local, and organic food to member-owners and the community at large through six retail locations and to wholesale customers through the Co-op Distribution Center.

OLLA AWARD (LOCAL FOOD HERO): LYNN WALTERS, COOKING WITH KIDS Lynn Walters set out in 1995 to empower children and youth to make healthy food choices through hands-on learning with fresh, affordable foods from diverse cultures with her Cooking with Kids program. She has touched the lives of hundreds of thousands of children over the years through the classes the program offers. Her work has inspired chefs, teachers, politicians and other adults by bringing to the fore the connections between early positive experiences with food and life long health. The Olla Award recognizes individuals who have made significant contributions in the realm of good food work in Northern New Mexico, and who are creating a more robust local food system. Thank you Lynn!

NOMINEES LOCAL HERO NOMINEES LOCAL HERO NOMINEES LOCAL HERO NOMINEES LOCAL HERO NOMINEES LOCAL HERO NOMINEES

RESTAURANT • Aceq • Andiamo!

• Blades Bistro • Blue Corn Brewery • Café Café • Cocina Azul • Coyote Café • Doc Martins • Dr. Field Goods Kitchen • Farina • Fire & Hops • Five Star Burgers • Georgia • Harry's Roadhouse • Inn of the Anazasi • izanami • Jambo Café • Joseph's Culinary Pub • Jennifer James 101 • Joe's Dining • L'Olivier • La Casa Sena • La Merienda at Los Poblanos • La Plazuela at La Fonda • Loyal Hound • Lambert's of Taos • Mangiamo Pronto • Midtown Bistro • Mu Du Noodles • Omira • Piatinni • Raaga • Red Sage • Restaurant 315 • Restaurant Martin • Safari Grill • Santacafé • Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen • Terra Restaurant @ Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado • TerraCotta • Thai Vegan • The Artesian Restaurant • The Compound • The Gorge Bar & Grill • The Shed • Torinos @ Home • Tune-Up Café • Vinaigrette • Yannis • Zacatecas Taco & Tequila CAFÉ • Annapurna • Better Day Coffee • Body • Café Fina • Coffee Cats • Counter Culture • Dulce • Farmhouse Café & Bakery • Flying Star Café • Greenhouse Bistro & Bakery • Hartford Square • Iconik Coffee Roasters • Ohori's Coffee Roasters • RASA Juice Bar • Taos Diner • The Teahouse

• The Kitchen • Treehouse Pastry Café • Tribes Coffeehouse & Co-op Gallery • Tune-Up Café • Verde Juice Bar

PUB (Serving local food and beer) • B2B Bistronomy • Blue Corn Brewery • Draft Station • Dr. Field Goods Kitchen • Duel Brewing • Fire & Hops • Five Star Burgers • Loyal Hound • Taos Ale House • Taos Mesa Brewing RETAILER (specialty) • La Cosas Kitchen Shoppe • Santa Fe Culinary Academy • Santa Fe School of Cooking • Savory Spice Shop • Sheila's Sweets • Susan's Fine Wine & Spirits • Tully's Italian Deli & Meats

RETAILER (grocery) • Cids Taos • Espanola Community Market • Kaune's Neighborhood Market • Talin • Taos Market • Village Farmer's Market • Whole Foods FOOD WRITER • Amy White • Andrea Feucht • Anne Hillerman • Dave Dewitt • Denise Miller • Eric Castillo • Gail Guenguerich • James Selby • Lois Ellen Frank • Nasario Garcia, author of Grandma Lale's Tamales • Pat West Barker • Rob DeWalt • Rocky Durham • Sam Melada • Sarah Wenzel Fisher • Sheila Nixon • Tantri Wija • Vicki Pozzebon • Willy Carlton

FOOD ARTISAN • Authenticookie • Bee Chama • Bosque Baking • Chocolate Maeven • Cloud Cliff Bakery • Fano Bakery • Heidi's Raspberry Jam • Kakawa Chocolate House • Kinna's natural - chile sauce • Lusty Monk Mustard • Matt's Gluten Free Bakery

• Pecos Mustard • Valley Gurlz • Wendy Borger, RASA

BEVERAGE ARTISAN • De Smet Dairy • Humble Coffee • Iconik Coffee Roasters • Ohori's Coffee Roasters • Villa Myriam • Zendo

BEER, WINE, AND SPIRITS ARTISAN • Blue Corn Brewery • Bosque Brewing • Canteen Brewing • Pasando Tiempo Winery • Duel Brewing • Estrella Del Norte Vineyard • KGB Spirits • Monte's Hard Cider • Santa Fe Brewing Company • Santa Fe Cider Works • Santa Fe Spirits • Second Street Brewery • Vivac Winery MIXOLOGISTS • Chris Milligan, Secreto Lounge • James Reis, Inn of the Anazasi • Nicholas Tyson, Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado • Quinn Stevenson, Geronimo & Coyota Café • Richard at Geckos

FARM/FARMER • Ancient Waters Farm • Cecilia Rosacker, Cecilia's Organics • Chris Carpenter, Pasando Tiempo Vineyards • Clarabelle Romero • David Fresquez, Monte Vista Organic Farm • DeSmet Dairy • Don Bustos • Dory Wezgren, Red Tractor Farm • Ed and Michael Loubaugh, Old Windmill Dairy • Eli Burg, Chispas Farm • Erin Parker-Rich, Hip Chick • Fergus Whitney, Los Poblanos • Fidel Gonzalez, Los Jardines de Moctezuma • Freshies of New Mexico • Center For Ageless Living • Gary Gundersen, Mr. G's Organic Produce • Green Tractor Farm • Jedrek Lamb, Granja Para Manana • Joaquin Lujan, Rancho Entre dos Acequias • Joseph Alfaro, Valle Encantado • Khalsa Farms • Margaret & Eremita Campos • Poki Piottin, Gaia Gardens • Rey Romero, Rey Romero Farm • Ric Gaudet, One Straw Farm • Ric Murphy, Sol Harvest Farm • Ron Adams, Adams Family Farm

• • • • •

Sean Ludden, ARCA Organics Seth Matlick, Vida Verde Farm Shauna Pearson, Skarsgard Farms Tom Day, Hays Honey & Apple Farm Wagner Farms

CHEF • Ahmed Obo • Brett Sparman • Christophe Descarpentries • Christopher Pope • Cristian Pontiggia • David Padberg • David Sundberg • Eric DiStefano • Esteban Parra • James Campbell Curuso • Jason Greene • Jennifer James • Joel Coleman • John Rivera Sedlar • Jonathan Perno • Joseph Wrede • Josh Carswell • Juan Bochenski • Kevin Bladergroen • Lane Warner • Louis Moskow • Maria Elena Bustamante-Bernal • Marie Yniguez • Mark Kiffin • Martin Rios • Mary Mays • Matt Yohalem • Maxime Bouneou • Michelle Roetzer • Mu Jing Lau • Noah Pettus • Olive Tyrrell • Paddy Rawal • Renee Fox • Richard Winters • Rob Connoley • Rocky Durham • Roland Richter • Sandra McDonald • Sean Sinclair • Shawn Weed • Tom Kerpon • Xavier Grenet

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Farm to Restaurant Farm to Table Food Depot Gaia Gardens Hunter Arts & Agriculture Center Valencia Community Garden Kitchen Angels La Cosecha CSA La Montañita Co-op Los Jardines Institute MoGro Nob Hill Growers Market Project Feed the Hood Rio Grande Community Farm Roadrunner Food Bank Santa Fe Culinary Academy Santa Fe Farmer's Market Santa Fe Farmers Market Institute Santa Fe School of Cooking Santa Fe Veg Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta Slow Food Santa Fe Valle Encantada

OLLA AWARD (Local Food Hero) • Amy Heteger, Home Grown NM • Andrew Cooper, Terra Restaurant • Carlos Jaramillo, Village Farmer's Market • Cheri Montoya Austin, Farm & Table • Deborah Madison, Writer • Ed & Michael Lobaugh, Old Windmill Dairy • Erin O'Neill, SFCC Garden Coodinator • Jason Greene, The Grove • Jedrek Lamb, New Mexico Farmers' Marketing Association • Joaquin Lujan, Project Feed the Hood • John "Ski" Shaski, KnowWaste • Jonathan Perno, Los Poblanos • Joyce Johns Hutchinson, President of Valencia Community Gardens • Lynn Walters, Cooking With Kids • Marie Yniguez, Bocadillos • Martin Rios, Restuarant Martin • Matt Romero, Romero Farms • Matt Yohalem, Il Piatto • Michelle Franklin, La Montañita Co-op • Michelle Roetzer, Santa Fe School FOOD TRUCK of Cooking and SFCC • ABQ Mystique • Nina Yotzell-Epstein, Farm to • Irrational Pie Restaurant • Karibu Café • Pamela Davis, Seed2Need • La Taqueria Del Pueblo • Poki Piottin, Gaia Gardens & Mil • Mimmo Esspresso Abrazos Community Land Trust • Nile Café • Ric, One Straw Farm • Pop Fizz • Richard Schneider, MoGro • Rustic • Robin Seydel, La Montañita Co-op • Senora Dogs • Rocky Durham, Santa Fe Culinary • Street Food Institute Academy • Roland Richter, Joe's Dining ORGANIZATION • Sam Baca, Santa Fe Farmers • Agri-Cultura Network Market Institute • Bon Appetit • Santa Fe Art Institute Food Justice • Center For Ageless Living residency program • Delicious New Mexico • Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, edible WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM • Vicki Pozzebon, Prospera Partners • Edible Santa Fe! 25

Spring 26

Spring Onions and Lamb Shanks PATRICK GHARRITY, LA CASA SENA

By Katherine Mast

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

Originally from central Ohio, Chef Patrick Gharrity knew since age ten that he would wind up in Santa Fe. The city captivated his imagination during a family vacation. He could not have known then that the landscape of his childhood dreams would align so neatly with his career aspirations; by the time Gharrity moved to New Mexico in 1999, Santa Fe had become a culinary destination.

Though Gharrity does not hold a culinary degree, he’s held nearly every position a kitchen can offer. Gharrity, now executive chef at La Casa Sena, draws on a deep knowledge of restaurant operations to operate a tight kitchen.

Gharrity spent summers picking raspberries and strawberries and eating in-season from his family’s garden. Now, with a commitment to creating healthy food, he continues to seek out the freshest options to use in his menu for the nutritional value, and also because fresh ingredients are more toothsome and colorful. “Customers remember the meal because it tasted so good, not because it was healthy,” he says.

As the interest in local food has blossomed, so has access to those ingredients.

Gharrity used to attend the farmers market with his children in their red wagon to load up on produce for the restaurant.

“It was cute and fun, and it worked,” he says, but the weekly trek was a huge commitment of personal time, and it limited the purchase to just a wagon-load per visit. Now, Sysco offers local protein options, and Gharrity relies on the Farm to Restaurant program for local produce.

The program, run by Farm to Table, connects farmers with area chefs, helps farmers decide what produce to grow based on restaurant demand, and coordinates drop-offs at restaurant kitchens. “Now I can get three or four times (the amount of ) product delivered to my back door twice a week.”

SPRING ONIONS AND LAMB SHANKS Serves 4 4 lamb shanks, hind or fore 2 pounds spring onions, quartered 1/2 pound carrots, rough chopped 1/4 pound celery, rough chopped 4 cloves garlic, smashed 1 cup red wine 3 cups beef stock 8 cups water, or enough to cover

in large roasting pan Salt and pepper Preheat oven to 300O F. Heat a large skillet over a medium-high flame. Generously sprinkle lamb with salt and pepper.

Place shanks in the hot skillet and sear until caramelized on all sides. Remove and place in a braising pan or large Dutch oven.

Reduce flame under the skillet to medium. Add vegetables to drippings, careful not to burn pan or vegetables. With a slotted spoon, add vegetables to shanks in the Dutch oven.

Drain fat from searing pan. Reduce flame as low as possible. Pour wine into searing pan and reduce to a few tablespoons. Add reduction, stock, and water to shanks.

Cover and braise for 6 hours. Remove and let set for 30 minutes. Remove shanks and vegetables into a casserole dish. Pour stock into a metal pitcher and allow fat to rise. Skim fat from stock.

In a heavy skillet, reduce stock slightly.

Pour some on shanks and vegetables.

Season to taste and serve.

La Casa Sena 125 East Palace Avenue, Santa Fe 505-988-9232 · www.lacasasena.com

575-758-8866 www.thegorgebarandgrill.com located in the historic Taos Plaza

EAT DRINK LAUGH

(NOT NECESSARILY IN THAT ORDER) WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

27

Spring Hash JASON GREENE, THE GROVE CAFE & MARKET

By Erin Frye The Grove Cafe & Market provides local fine dining in a casual café in Albuquerque’s trendy EDO neighborhood near downtown.

The café offers a bustling brunch experience with meticulous attention to detail and service. Chef and co-owner, Jason Greene, has been in kitchens since he was sixteen years old. “After graduating from New England Culinary Institute and working with many wonderful chefs, I knew I wanted to start my own restaurant that showcased local food and farmers and that was a community gathering spot. My vision became a reality when my wife Lauren, and I opened The Grove,” says Jason.

The Greenes have a passion for using the highest quality ingredients, practicing artisan cooking methods, and focusing on local and organic products. They love to share the amazing food grown in Albuquerque and throughout New Mexico with their guests.

They proudly work with many local farmers, artisans, and purveyors, and showcase their seasonal produce and culinary products on the menu and in their marketplace. Jason explains, “We are grateful that The Grove is a connection between the farmer and the everyday consumer.”

Jason also believes that a healthy local economy equals healthy small businesses like his, “Without a booming economy, The Grove could not afford to do what we strive to everyday for our guests.” His bottom line is to make sure local food tastes better and looks better.

But the Greenes' agenda is about more than dollars and cents. They have lead the way in good food waste management in their kitchen. Staff are trained to sort compostable and recyclable waste, to reduce the amount of trash they send to the landfill.

They also understand that a healthy economy and good local food are rooted in a healthy environment.

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SPRING HASH Serves 2 – 3 This simple brunch recipe highlights spring vegetables at their peak.

Artichokes 2 whole fresh artichoke hearts, cleaned, quartered,

and blanched until tender 1 teaspoon salt 1 lemon Bay leaf 12 peppercorns Prepare each artichoke: cut the stem to 1/2 inch; cut off the top half; and trim away hard outer leaves. Then cut each artichoke in half lengthwise. Using a paring knife, remove the feathery and spiny core. In a large stockpot bring the juice of 1 lemon, lemon halves, a teaspoon of salt, bay leaf, and a dozen peppercorns to a boil. Submerge the artichokes and cook for 8 – 10 minutes.

Remove from water, cut into quarters, and set aside.

In a medium saucepot, bring 3 inches of water with a splash of white vinegar to a boil for poaching eggs.

Hash 1 1/2 pounds fingerling potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch circles 3/4 cup fresh shelled green peas, blanched 1 spring onion or leek, julienned 1/2 tablespoon thyme, chopped Juice of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil Salt and pepper Fresh parsley leaves, minced Chives, minced Parmesan, grated Heat olive oil in cast iron skillet over medium high heat. When hot, add diced potatoes and cook for 6 – 8 minutes. Add julienned onions and let caramelize. Continue to cook until potatoes become golden. Add red pepper flakes and chopped thyme. Add blanched artichokes and cook until edges become brown. Add blanched peas and season with salt and pepper. When vegetables are cooked, add a few tablespoons of butter and the juice of 1 lemon. Toss well and taste for seasoning.

Eggs 3 eggs 2 tablespoons white vinegar Carefully crack eggs into boiling water. Gently stir once to make sure the eggs do not stick to the bottom. Allow eggs to cook for 3 – 5 minutes. Remove eggs from the water with a slotted spoon.

Spoon hash onto a plate and top with poached eggs. Garnish with parsley, chives, and Parmesan.

The Grove Cafe & Market 600 Central Avenue SE, Albuquerque 505-248-9800 · www.thegrovecafémarket.com

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505-244-3344 109 GOLD AVE. ALBUQUERQUE, NM

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

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Prosciutto Artisan Cheese Wrap ED AND MICHAEL LOBAUGH, THE OLD WINDMILL DAIRY

By Valerie Ashe 30

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

Since 2002, Michael and Ed Lobaugh have produced and sold their award-winning cheeses at central New Mexico farmers markets and now at La Montañita Co-op, Whole Foods, and various fine and casual dining establishments throughout the state. Not only do they handcraft every one of their forty-two products—ranging from chèvre to semi-hard and cave-aged cheeses to bloomy rinds—but they also raise their own animals on their dairy farm in Estancia.

Free-roaming Nubian goats and Jersey cows enjoy a daily diet of wholesome grains, alfalfa, and organic sprouts under the Lobaughs’ vigilant care. Both hailing from decidedly non-farming backgrounds—Michael worked in corporate hospitality for several years; Ed is a psychiatric nurse practitioner—the Lobaughs have had to learn everything from the ground up as they have grown their business: purchasing land and livestock, animal husbandry, fence-building, cheesemaking, food safety, and marketing. “Not bad for two boys who didn’t know how to make cheese,” quips Ed. And their hard work has paid off. An array of Old Windmill Dairy cheeses can be found on local grocery shelves statewide and on menus from some of New Mexico’s most popular dining establishments, including Chama River Brewing Company, Flying Star, and Farm & Table. The Old Windmill Dairy has a symbiotic relationship with other producers in the local food economy. “We depend on local individuals, restaurants, distributors, and food markets to purchase our product,” says Michael. “In return, we use local ingredients, such as Heidi's raspberry jam from Corrales and Tripple Heart Jam from Moriarty, in our cheeses. Some of our bries, goudas, and chèvre call for locally grown New Mexico green chile.” The Lobaughs credit a vibrant local food system for helping them build strong relationships and partnerships that help their business survive—and thrive.

PROSCIUTTO ARTISAN CHEESE WRAP Serves 8 2 ripened Bartlett pears 8 ounces Manzano Blue Moon cheese 16 slices of thin prosciutto 8 ounces of McIntosh cheddar 2 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons of balsamic vinegar Halve the pears and remove the seeds. Slice the pears crosswise into 1/2-inch thick slices. Cover 1 side of each slice with Manzano Blue Moon, and the other side with a thin slice of McIntosh cheddar. With a slice of prosciutto, wrap the wedge so the cheese is completely covered and the edges of the prosciutto come together.

Preheat grill on high heat. The goal is to crisp the prosciutto quickly without over cooking the pears but melting the cheeses. Grill each piece until the prosciutto begins to color and crisp, approximately 2 minutes. Remove from the grill and drizzle lightly with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Serve warm.

The Old Windmill Dairy 52 Paso Ranch Road, Estancia 505-384-0033 · www.theoldwindmilldairy.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

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Kale Salad with Oranges RIC MURPHY, SOL HARVEST FARM

something unique that a chef will be excited to cook—salsify root, corn mache, sunchokes, or kohlrabi.”

For Murphy, farming cultivates more than just regional land stewardship and local food production. Managing an urban farm builds community, he has learned. Sol Harvest is unique in its high visibility. Naturally, restaurant diners and passersby on Fourth Street are lured into Murphy’s garden. He welcomes the company. “Diners can literally see where some of their meal was grown. It’s pretty special to have a restaurant onsite. Anyone from the restaurant…or just someone driving down the street can stop and have a look. We love building community around food.” For Murphy, the relationship between the farm and the public is dynamic. Not only does the public get the satisfaction of participating firsthand in a local food microsystem— farm to restaurant table—Murphy receives the benefit of collective knowledge. “I don’t pretend to know everything about farming,” he says humbly. “It’s a profession where you’ll always learn something. We have interns, work-shares and volunteers on the farm on a regular basis, and they have definitely taught me about growing produce. And that’s great.”

By Marjory Sweet

KALE SALAD WITH ORANGES Serves 4 – 6

Many restaurants claim a farm-to-table ethic, but rarely do you actually find an organic farm in full production only a couple hundred yards from restaurant tables. This kitchen-to-garden proximity is precisely the case at Farm & Table, in Albuquerque’s far North Valley. Ric Murphy partnered with the restaurant in January 2012 and has farmed the land just west of the patio. Sol Harvest farm supplies food directly to Farm & Table and to the public, with two weekly market stands held on the patio of the restaurant.

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The farmer to chef relationship is inherently symbiotic. Chefs can create better meals with higher quality produce. Farmers can make direct sales, with the ease of mind that their product will be used in an economical, respectful way. At Sol Harvest and Farm & Table, these mutual benefits are intensified by design. Murphy sees growing for chefs as a huge advantage. “Chefs are very versatile in the quantity and quality of produce they buy.” Also, “Selling to restaurants is fun,” he says. “You can experiment with growing

1 bunch kale (curly or red Russian

work best), chiffonade 1 tablespoon olive oil 1/4 teaspoon sea salt Juice of 1 lime 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar 1 tablespon red onion, finely chopped 1 orange, peeled and sliced Remove the stems from the kale and chop into thin ribbons. Drizzle the kale with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Massage the kale with your hands to soften, then allow to sit for 30 minutes. Add the lime, vinegar, onion, and orange. Allow to marinate for 30 minutes, then serve.

Sol Harvest Farm 8917 Fourth Street, Albuquerque 505-306-1998 · www.solharvestfarm.com

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farm in North Dakota. He started his business in 2003 on four acres borrowed from the Los Poblanos Inn in Los Ranchos de Albuquerque and seventeen members. Since that time, he has successfully created one of the largest CSAs in the Southwest providing high quality organic food to over seventeen hundred families a week.

His customers know Skarsgard for his entrepreneurial spirit and commitment to supporting local agriculture. For the past six years, Skarsgard has employed dozens of farm interns, training them to be able to establish their own agricultural businesses.

Many of the young farmers who frequent Albuquerque farmers markets got their start at Skarsgard Farms.

RUSTIC CAULIFLOWER SOUP Serves 4 – 6

It's OK; we can admit that we don't have the most creative ways to cook cauliflower all the time. This is a great creamy soup base that can take whatever add-ons you want to throw at it. And it is a very easy and quick meal. Buen provecho.

Rustic Cauliflower Soup MONTE SKARSGARD, SKARSGARD FARMS

By Erin Frye Each week Skarsgard Farms brings the best of what's in season by way of harvest boxes, right to the doors of their CSA members.

As part of their Harvest Box program, community members in Albuquerque, Santa Fe, and Los Alamos can sign up in advance for a share of all the fruits, vegetables, and flowers that Skarsgard farmers will produce in a given season. Additionally, members can customize their box by ordering organic produce and value added items from small, organic growers from around the West. Skarsgard Farms works with a network of certified organic growers in order to operate on a year-round basis and 34

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

to provide a wide selection of fresh food to members.

Owner, Monte Skarsgard is deeply committed to building a strong local economy, and to championing organic food production. He says, “We have to be proactive. If we want economic diversity in our communities, we have to support small local and organic producers.

Having this economic diversity in the marketplace brings character and pride to our towns.

Because in the end, we truly are what we eat.”

Skarsgard Farms draws its inspiration from Skarsgard’s agricultural heritage and the family

1 medium head cauliflower 1 quart chicken or vegetable stock 1 medium yellow onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons butter Cheddar, shredded Green chile Avocado Bring a stockpot to medium heat. Add butter, chopped onions, and garlic. Sauté until onions are translucent, about 8 – 10 minutes. Add stock and cauliflower cut into florets. Bring to a simmer and cook for 20 – 25 minutes uncovered. You want cauliflower well cooked but not mushy.

Puree with an immersion blender or by putting batches into blender. Season with salt and pepper.

Serve in bowls topped with shredded cheese, chopped green chile, and avocado slices.

Great warm or cold the next day.

Skarsgard Farms 3435 Stanford Drive NE, Albuquerque 505-681-4060 · www.skarsgardfarms.com

Take a little trip.

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575.758.2233

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Thank You!

“ THANK YOU…we want to thank all of our customers that have supported us in the last eight years. We wish all of you the best this Holiday Season.” ~ Ed and Michael Lobaugh www.TheOldWindmillDairy.com

No Nuts Carrot Cake & Spring Martini STEPHANIE CAMERON AND SARAH WENTZEL-FISHER, EDIBLE SANTA FE

By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher magazine. By advertising in our magazine, local businesses commit their support to an economy where local food businesses play a critical role.

Writers who contribute to edible come from diverse backgrounds, and many are not writers by trade. These individuals are the heart and voice of the local food movement, and without their efforts, our magazine would not hold the breadth and depth of stories and ideas you enjoy in each issue.

Farmers, food artisans, local food advocates, restaurateurs, mixologists, grocers, and others on the front lines of changing our food systems are essential to edible. Their work is the local food movement, and we endeavor to honor their work in every story we tell.

And last, but far from least, you, loyal readers, are essential to what we do at edible.

We thank you for engaging with every issue and for all of your feedback. Although we happily make copies available for free, we encourage you to support our work, and the stories of local food heroes, through a subscription for you or a friend, or both.

NO NUTS CARROT CAKE Serves 8 – 10 This is a stripped down carrot cake for my daughter, Kelli, who doesn’t like raisins and is allergic to nuts. The carrots really shine through in this recipe.

The production of each issue of edible Santa Fe is tremendous group effort. Each issue is hammered out at our dining tables, always over good food. In addition to our efforts to champoin local food, quality writing, and exceptional food photography, a team of dozens of other folks makes the beautiful magazine you hold possible. This group represents a broad range of eclectic experience and expertise.

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edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

Edible copyeditors, Margaret Marti and Willy Carleton, deserve much credit for their commitment to consistency in language and layout. Their eyes and attention to detail are invaluable to each issue.

Jodi Vevoda, Gina Riccobono, and Walt Cameron tirelessly engage our advertisers.

They build critical partnerships in the community and a strong foundation for the

Carrot Cake 1 cup light brown sugar, packed 3/4 cup coconut oil, melted 1/4 cup Greek yogurt 3 large eggs 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon cardamom 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon salt 2 1/2 cups carrots, grated Frosting 8 ounces cream cheese, softened to

room temperature 1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened to

room temperature 2 1/2 cups confectioners’ sugar 2 tablespoons heavy cream 2 teaspoons vanilla extract Salt Preheat oven to 350º F. Spray 10-inch springform pan with nonstick cooking spray.

In a large bowl with a handheld or stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment on medium speed, combine the brown sugar and oil. Add yogurt and beat until fully combined, about a minute. Beat in eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Add in the vanilla and mix for a few seconds more.

In a separate bowl, combine dry ingredients and spices. With a rubber spatula, stir the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients until just combined; do not over mix. Fold in the shredded carrots. Pour into prepared springform pan.

Bake cake for about 35 minutes or until toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Check the cake at 30 minutes, then again in 2-minute intervals until done. Allow cake to cool completely before frosting.

For the frosting, beat the softened cream cheese and butter together on medium speed for 2 – 3 minutes until soft and combined thoroughly. Add 2 cups of powdered sugar and beat until thick and combined. Add 2 tablespoons heavy cream and 2 teaspoons vanilla extract. Beat on medium speed for 2 more minutes. Add more powdered sugar until desired thickness is reached. Add salt to taste.

Store cake in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

SPRING MARTINI A martini is a classic drink that carries more mystique than it probably deserves. The essence of this simple and elegant drink is high quality gin or vodka, and vermouth (fortified wine enhanced with botanicals).

New Mexico has a wealth of distilleries that make unusual and delicious gins and vodkas to choose from as the base of this cocktail.

While the state doesn’t currently have any vermouth purveyors, you can find a number of small-batch, artisanal varieties at your local liquor store, or you can make your own (www.edible.com/vermouth). Finally, a good martini is perfectly complimented with great garnish like homemade spring onion, radish, carrot, or beet pickles.

Pickles 1 pound small, spring root vegetables Salt 1 cup malt or cider vinegar 1 cup water 1 teaspoon black pepper corns 2 bay leaves 2 cloves garlic 1/2 teaspoon celery seed Wash vegetables and pack them into a sterilized 1-quart Mason jar. In a saucepan over

medium heat, combine the remaining ingredients. Add salt until the liquid is your ideal pickle brine. Let the mixture boil, then remove from heat. Carefully pour over vegetables until the jar is full to the lower rim.

Seal with a clean lid, then refrigerate for at least 1 week.

Martini 2 ounces local gin or vodka 1 – 4 splashes of dry vermouth Pickles Fill a clean pint sized Mason jar with ice. Pour vodka and vermouth over the ice. Put the lid on tight and shake vigorously for about 30 seconds. Pour into a martini glass, and garnish with a spear of homemade pickles. For a dirtier martini, add a splash of pickle brine. edible Santa Fe Subscribe at www.ediblesantafe.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

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Summer 38

Off the Cob Salad ERIN WADE, VINAIGRETTE

By Andrea Feucht

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

Many Santa Feans already know the name Erin Wade, chef and owner of Vinaigrette. In 2008 she opened her first restaurant in Santa Fe, and quickly raised the local salad standard. No one balks at paying fifteen dollars for a hunk of steak and a potato even if the origins of both are unknown, but pay the same for a salad? Consider the effort it takes to pull those peppery greens from the soil; to make feta from scratch; to grow, then toast pecans; and to raise, then roast an organic chicken breast. You might actually consider Vinaigrette's Cherry Tart Salad with roasted chicken a bargain.

Vinaigrette couldn’t have started without the Wade family farm, a ten-acre plot near Nambè that had gone practically to junk yard status. After college, Wade spent a year in Milan pursuing an art career. In the embrace of Europe, she experienced a joy in food— creativity with flavors, simple pleasure in eating—that left an impression and led her right back to Nambè. After cleaning up the property and fixing up the onsite house, the farm was reborn. The farm now provides a significant source of base ingredients at both her Santa Fe and Albuquerque locations.

In the five years since launching, addictive salads (as well as a whole host of small entrees and tasty desserts) have provided steady business. Rarely is a table vacant at either location, proving that Wade’s vision is sustainable, just like the produce she harvests everyday from Nambè. Three-quarters of Vinaigrette’s ingredients in peak season are from that single location, demonstrating her prowess as a farmer. She shares her knowledge in lectures and guest appearances. The Santa Fe Botanical Garden has hosted her class, Successful Gardening in New Mexico Soil. Public engagements, as well as the occasional farm tour helps hungry customers make the leap from simply eating tasty local food to wanting to grow their own.

OFF THE COB Serves 2 as a main dish or 4 as a side Salad 6 ears of corn, grilled and sliced off the cob 3 cups cherry tomatoes, quartered 2 small red onions, finely diced 1 cup feta 1/2 cup cilantro, chopped Dressing 1 cup fresh lime juice 1/4 cup cumin 2 tablespoon smoked Paprika Salt and pepper 2 cups extra virgin olive oil 4 cloves garlic, minced Combine dressing ingredients in a bowl. Whisk until emulsified.

Combine salad ingredients in a large bowl. Dress salad and toss.

Serve and garnish with fresh cilantro and extra feta.

Vinaigrette 1828 Central Avenue SW, Albuquerque · 505-842-5507 709 Don Cubero Alley, Santa Fe · 505-820-9205 www.vinaigretteonline.com

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

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experience from training under Roberto Caporuscio, the owner of two top-rated pizzerias in New York, it’s the Amador’s commitment to providing fresh, local food that makes all the difference. They make their own mozzarella, sauce, pizza dough, and bread in-house, working with local farm and food producers for their ingredients. The Amadors believe in a supporting a vibrant local food system. “It’s critical to the health of our business, and the customers to enjoy these foods,” they say. Eating at Amore, you know that your food is fresh, delivered from farm to table, and made with love—love from the chefs who made it, and from the local farmers who grew it.

AMORE NEAPOLITAN PIZZERIA'S BRUSCHETTA Serves 4 This simple Italian classic with a New Mexican twist has become a house favorite. Our bruschetta begins with our infused olive oil, featuring dried New Mexico red chile from Armijo Farm in Bosque, New Mexico. The oil is also wonderful used in marinara sauces, pasta dishes, brushed on garlic bread, or as a base for your own vinaigrette.

Amore Neapolitan Pizzeria's Bruschetta GABRIEL AND KIMBERLY AMADOR, AMORE NEAPOLITAN PIZZERIA

By Katherine Mullé If you dream of authentic Italian food, you’re in luck, because you can experience the taste of true Italian cuisine made from fresh and wholesome ingredients without actually traveling to Italy. Amore is a traditional Italian pizzeria baking authentic Neapolitan pizza for hungry Burqueños. Owners Gabriel and Kimberly Amador, a hard-working husband and wife team, met in the birthplace of pizza: Naples, Italy. There they lived, got married, ate lots of food (especially pizza), and found themselves inspired by the local cuisine. “Fifteen years later, after living in Albuquerque for ten years, we opened Amore 40

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

Neapolitan Pizzeria, and named it after our love for each other.” They opened Amore with the intention of bringing the passion, romance, and delicious food of Naples into a family owned and operated restaurant.

While Amore may have gotten its name from the love shared between two people, it’s a product of many things the Amador’s love and want to support, most importantly good food, close-knit families and communities, and honorable local producers.

Amore is the only certified Neapolitan pizzeria in New Mexico, and it’s easy to see why. While the Amadors have invaluable

1 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/2 hot red chile, dehydrated

and crushed 1 teaspoon sea salt 4 cloves garlic, chopped 1 – 2 tomatoes of your choice, diced 4 basil leaves, shredded or chopped 4 – 6 slices fresh rustic bread For the infused oil, combine olive oil with the red chile, sea salt, and garlic. Store in a sealed container until ready to use, preferably 24 hours ahead of time.

For the bruschetta, brush each slice of bread on one side with the infused oil. Toast in a preheated skillet at medium high heat until browned and warmed through. Cut toasted bread diagonally across. Top each piece with chopped tomato, a few basil slices, finishing with a small drizzle of infused oil. Enjoy!

Amore Neapolitan Pizzeria 2929 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-554-1967 · www.amoreabq.com

Heirloom Yellow Tomato Gazpacho with Apple Granita MARK KIFFIN, THE COMPOUND RESTAURANT

By Marjory Sweet

HEIRLOOM YELLOW TOMATO GAZPACHO WITH APPLE GRANITA Serves 4 – 6 Tomato and apple is something that people don't often think of together, but the apple granita picks up a little bit of the coolness as you swirl it into the soup, and it also keeps the cool soup cold.

Gazpacho 3 pounds ripe yellow tomatoes 1 thin skinned cucumber (Japanese or

English), coarsely chopped 1 jalapeño, halved and seeded 1 bunch cilantro, chopped 1 small red onion, minced 1 small yellow bell pepper, minced 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar Juice of 1 lime 2 tablespoons olive oil Salt Slice tomatoes in half. Using a course grater, grate the tomatoes, cut side down until you have removed all the juice and flesh from the skin. In a blender, puree the tomato juice, jalapeño, and cucumber. Salt to taste and chill.

For the relish, combine the cilantro, red onion, and bell pepper. Add olive oil, vinegar, and lime juice. Stir and salt to taste. Chill.

The Compound’s menu—with dishes like lamb shanks with saffron risotto, curry roasted carrots, and tangerine gremolata—makes the meaning of the restaurant’s name resonate. The tuna tartare has been on the menu for fifteen years. Currently, it is served with an unexpected combination (rich, nutty, briny, and raw) of walnut toast, preserved lemon, and black caviar and is (and always has been) one of their most popular dishes. Maintaining that kind of longevity on a menu and refreshing those elements over the years and according to the season demands deep respect for good ingredients and culinary expertise like that of chef and owner Mark Kiffin.

At age nineteen, Kiffin, a Colorado native, graduated with honors from the Culinary Institute of America. Alongside colleagues and mentors, Kiffin learned that, “Great ingredients are the most important foundation [of great food]…followed by great technique and

respect of those ingredients.” His kitchen philosophy has served Kiffin well throughout his twenty-five years in the industry.

Kiffin cites his European, classically-trained instructors, as well as his maternal grandmother, as culinary influences. This duel influence informs his treatment of food—a balance between practiced skill and pure love.

“It’s a passion, it’s a craft,” he says of his life’s work. Kiffin’s loyalty to excellent purveyors is also fundamental to his success. “Once they become part of our family I stick with them, season in, season out,” he says of the farmers and artisans who supply the restaurant.

The Compound’s menu quickly reveals the depth of these important partnerships with items such as Anson Mills white corn grits, Umbrian black truffles, and Blackfoot River Valley beef. Such regional specialties can only belong to a chef who cooks consistently, passionately, and expertly.

Granita 3 pounds tart apples Juice of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger 1/2 cup sugar 2 tablespoons fresh basil leaves Core and slice apples. In a food processor, puree the apple with the lemon juice and ginger until smooth. Add the basil leaves to the processor and run until smooth and green. Remove from processor and stir in the sugar, tasting until desired sweetness. Add more sugar or lemon if needed for desired sweetness. Pour into a flat glass or stainless steel baking dish and freeze. As it starts to freeze, remove and break up with a fork.

When completely frozen, break up again.

Move to a sealable container and return to freezer.

To serve, place 1 small scoop of granita in each bowl of soup and top with the relish.

The Compound Restaurant 653 Canyon Road, Santa Fe 505-982-4353 · www.compoundrestaurant.com

Wild Mushroom Frittata MICAH ROSEBERRY, FARMHOUSE CAFÉ & BAKERY

By Nikki Lyn Pugh

WILD MUSHROOM FRITTATA Serves 4 – 6 The best part about this recipe is that it can be easily adjusted to what’s in your garden or your dietary whims. You can add bacon if desired, or substitute wild spinach or lambs quarters from your local hedgerow for the more civilized greens.

3 large eggs 2 ounces goat cheese or feta, crumbled 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 4 leaves fresh basil or other fresh herb 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 small onion, chopped 3/4 cup greens (spinach, chard, kale,

or lamb's quarters) 1 small tomato, chopped 1/4 cup scallions or garlic scapes, chopped 1/2 cup porcini or chanterelle mush- rooms, (oyster or portabella can

be substituted) 2 tablespoons Parmesan, grated 1 scant teaspoon paprika Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 450º F. Whisk eggs and set aside.

A little over a year ago, something magic happened at the Overland Ranch in Taos.

Micah Roseberry opened the Farmhouse Café and Bakery and started a revolution. Since opening, she has supported local farmers and has prepared delectable breakfasts and lunches for Taoseños and visitors alike. Thus far, the Farmhouse has purchased literally tons of ingredients from regional organic farmers.

For Roseberry, chef and owner of the Farmhouse, food is not just to eat. Each carrot, green bean, and slice of grassfed beef can also be a focal point for community building. In addition to her work at the restaurant, she sponsors a garden project at Enos Garcia Elementary, she partners with three area preschools on an organic breakfast and lunch program, and she has spurred efforts toward local quinoa production.

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To say that Roseberry has been busy since opening her doors would be an understatement. Today, the Farmhouse is a bustling mecca of curious tourists drawn in by the lush perennial flower garden that graces the café’s front entrance, regional locals who support the café’s mission and Taos regulars, to whom the Farmhouse’s super-fresh, homestyle fare has been a happy addition to their daily routine.

“The food creates a conversation,” Roseberry explains. “I’m trying to create a business model that really supports education and the community. Building local food capacity and security doesn’t start on food trucks that come from California or Mexico, nor does it come from the food industrial complex. It starts here.”

In a 10-inch ovenproof skillet over mediumhigh heat, cook the garlic in the olive oil until it starts to brown. Add the onion, season with salt and cook 2 minutes. Add the vegetables, increase the heat to high and cook until just tender, about 5 minutes.

Reduce the heat to medium. Spread the egg mixture evenly in the pan. Cook undisturbed until a thin crust forms on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Run a rubber spatula around the edge to release the egg from the pan. Continue cooking until the bottom is golden, 2 more minutes. Sprinkle with Parmesan, feta or goat cheese, and paprika.

Transfer to the oven and bake until just set, 5 – 7 minutes. Remove from the oven, cover and let sit, 5 minutes.

Cut into wedges to share or repeat to make custom frittatas for everyone. Serve with sautéed greens or breakfast potatoes.

Farmhouse Café & Bakery 1405 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, El Prado 575-758-5683 · farmhousecafeandbakery.com

Asian Summer Pesto MU JING LAU, MU DU NOODLES

By Katherine Mast duce, and local farmers had trouble selling their harvest. Since the cash economy wasn’t working, they set up trades; Mu offered her suppliers meals in exchange for produce.

Santa Fe was a challenging place to open a noodle bar, especially as a female restaurateur, but Mu says, it has turned out to be a great place for her business. “People in Santa Fe are exceptional. They are very aware of the importance of farm-to-table,” she says, “They get what I’m doing.”

ASIAN SUMMER PESTO Serves 4 – 8 This pesto was developed devoid of nuts, cheese, and gluten. We use it to make our summer pesto dish which is very popular and in high demand. People can use any kind of pasta (wheat, rice, buckwheat) and add any kind of protein to make it more special. You can also use it to add flavor to your meats, seafood or vegetables—this pesto is very versatile.

Mu Jing Lau wasn’t all that interested in noodles when she moved to Santa Fe in the early 1990s, but a lot can change in two decades. When Mu first began preparing noodles in 1995, Asian cuisine hadn’t taken off in the US. “Pad Thai was unheard of,” she says, “I rode the beginning waves.” A few years earlier, at age forty-five, Mu had left a stable but unfulfilling job as a corporate software engineer for culinary school where the curriculum focused on Italian and French cooking and breezed through Asian cuisine in just one week. Though Mu’s ancestry is Chinese, she grew up in the US and learned to cook Asian cuisine through cookbooks as she began her business.

One thing that sets Mu’s food apart is her care for the ingredients she uses. “Asian cuisine has a bad reputation for using bad meat,” she says, “I wanted to change those perceptions.” She produces her creative, evolving menu with organic meat and, whenever possible, produce she picks up at the farmers market. Something intangible happens to a dish prepared with ingredients from suppliers who are crazy about what they do, says Mu. “There is an accumulated love that flows from the soil to the plate.”

The relationships she has with local growers have been vital during her twenty years in business. In 2008 when the economy plummeted, she had trouble affording local pro-

6 Thai chiles, chopped 1/4 cup ginger, minced 2 tablespoons garlic, minced 1/4 pound Genovese basil, chopped 1/4 pound Thai purple basil, chopped 1 generous handful of spinach 1/4 cup shallots, chopped 1 – 2 tablespoons galanga, chopped Salt and pepper 3/4 cup olive oil or rice bran oil Put everything except the oil into a blender or food processor. Blend until chunks disappear and everything is well mixed. On a low setting, add the oil in a slow steam. Remove and top with more oil to preserve.

Refrigerate unused portion. It will last a week in the refrigerator if covered in oil.

Mu Du Noodles 1494 Cerrillos Road, Santa Fe 505-983-1411 · www.mudunoodles.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

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Grilled Peach Salad with Feta and Arugula SETH MATLICK, VIDA VERDE FARM

By Marjory Sweet

to occupy three one to two-acre lots hidden between the river and North Valley homes.

Matlick farms with a cook’s sensibility— curiosity for new tastes and sensitivity to the aesthetics of food. “At the farm, we strive to grow beautiful food,” he says. This culinary perspective makes working with restaurants a natural fit. While many farmers repeat crops season after season, trialing new varietals is integral to Vida Verde’s program. “We grew eight varieties of radish this year,” Matlick says. “The flavor profile difference is subtle, but the reason to grow so many different kinds is because it can create such a beautiful effect on the plate.”

This winter marks the close of Vida Verde’s fifth season. Matlick plans to expand production next year with more space, value added products and the introduction of a CSA. This means you can look forward to sampling a wider range of Matlick’s efforts from the field in more home and restaurant kitchens alike.

“If I can find twelve kinds of radishes, I would be happy to grow them all,” he says.

GRILLED PEACH SALAD WITH FETA AND ARUGULA Serves 4 – 6

If you go out to dinner in Albuquerque this week, you may order: caramelized Harukei turnips nestled in their own greens topped with thinly sliced watermelon radish floating on the surface of a creamy soup. Or Tokyo bekana, a mini Chinese cabbage, wilted on a hot pizza. For each of these unique ingredients, you would have Seth Matlick of Vida Verde Farm to thank. Matlick specializes in hard-to-find, organically grown produce, which makes Vida Verde a favorite of local 44

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

Albuquerque chefs. The farm supplies twelve (and counting) Albuquerque restaurants with produce.

“I feel at home in kitchens,” Matlick says, “it is partially what led me to farming.” He started his farm career as an apprentice at Skargsard Farms. After his first season, Skarsgard offered him a one-acre field they were giving up due to a permanent move from the North to South Valley. Matlick jumped at the opportunity. Now, his farm has grown

I love salads during the summer because they are quick, delicious, and very flexible.

You can always add or subtract ingredients as they come into season and reinvent your favorite dishes again and again. This salad can be made any time of the year substituting the peaches, feta, and arugula with other seasonal fruits, cheeses, and greens. All of these ingredients are grown and produced locally and can be found at any one of New Mexico’s many great farmers markets. Ask your farmers if they have anything new they recommend you try and be brave—you won't regret it!

Salad 4 ripe peaches, halved and pitted 1/2 cup sliced almonds, toasted 1/2 pound arugula 1/2 pound mixed greens (I love tatsoi

and mizuna) Old Windmill Dairy feta

Dressing 1/2 cup olive oil 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar 1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 1/2 teaspoons local honey 1 clove of garlic, minced Salt and pepper

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Heat a grill or grill pan on high heat until screaming hot before you grill the peaches. Lightly brush the cut sides of the peach halves with olive oil and sprinkle with a pinch of kosher salt. Grill the peaches cut side down for 1 – 2 minutes or until the peaches have nice grill marks on them, then set aside.

Dry roast the almonds in a pan making sure not to burn them. You want them to be slightly toasted and light brown.

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For the dressing combine the oil, balsamic vinegar, mustard, honey and garlic in a Mason jar. Screw on a lid tightly and give it a good long shake until all the ingredients are mixed thoroughly. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Toss the greens all together. If the leaves are large give them a rough chop. Drain the feta and add to the greens along with the toasted nuts. Lightly dress with the vinaigrette and save the rest in your refrigerator. Top with the grilled peaches and serve.

Vida Verde Farm Los Ranchos de Albuquerque On FB at vidaverdefarms, on Instagram at vidaverdefarmabq

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Open for lunch and dinner in two locations • 709 Don Cubero Alley in Santa Fe • 1828 Central Ave SW in Albuquerque WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

45

New Mexican Stuffed Squash Blossoms

NEW MEXICAN STUFFED SQUASH BLOSSOMS

SARAH HARTFORD, HARDFORD SQUARE

This is a wonderful small bite, side dish, or appetizer that has developed a cult following at our restaurant. The blossom size will vary, but try to use blossoms that are freshly picked and open.

By Katherine Mullé

Serves 4 – 6

12 medium to large squash blossoms 3/4 cup chevre (try Old Windmill Dairy

Red Hot & Chile or Holy Chipotle) 3/4 cup cream cheese 3/4 cup cheddar or Monterey jack 2 eggs 1 tablespoon water 2 cups finely ground homemade bread crumbs or cornmeal

Salt and pepper 1/2 cup olive oil Make sure squash blossoms are clean. Trim off spiky leaves at the base. In a medium bowl, thoroughly mix together the 3 cheeses. Carefully stuff each blossom with the cheese mixture and twist the end to hold it together.

Sarah Hartford, a mother of four who loves to cook, made her dream of opening a restaurant a reality in May 2013. While Hartford’s background is in art and she received a master's degree in art education from the University of New Mexico, she felt limited in her career options. She was a newcomer to the restaurant business, but decided to take the plunge. Although Hartford has lived in New Mexico for more than twenty years, when it came to developing a menu for Hartford Square, her inspiration grew from several food shops and small restaurants in the northeastern US where she is originally from. Even though her menu reflects her years living on the East Coast, her cuisine is also rooted in Albuquerque because of her commitment to sourcing close to home. “Local food drives what we do and 46

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

how we do it. It inspires us to keep up the quality, the flavor, and the variety.”

Not to mention, it also requires an everchanging menu. Hartford Square serves up local, organic, seasonal food, “inspired and challenged by what's at the farmers market and by what's seasonal and fresh.” Hartford Square highlights and describes the foods that are seasonal and local in a given week, and then creates a unique menu based on what’s available.

Seasonal selections that revolve around local food provide for healthier and more sustainable options, something that Hartford is passionate about. “[Cooking this way] stimulates our local economy and community and makes us a part of the local food network. We meet all kinds of great people and discover so much about our place and our neighbors.”

In a shallow bowl, whisk water into the eggs. In a separate shallow bowl combine breadcrumbs and salt and pepper to taste.

Divide breadcrumb mixture between the bowl and a plate.

Heat olive oil in small sauté pan to just below smoking hot. Working quickly but carefully, dip and roll each blossom in egg wash, covering the entire blossom. Then roll each in breadcrumbs. Set on breadcrumb coated plate. Prepare all blossoms before cooking.

Place blossoms carefully in hot oil leaving plenty of room around each. Brown on all sides, turning gently so as not to lose cheese. Remove from pan with spatula or tongs and drain on paper towels.

Serve immediately.

Hartford Square 300 Broadway Boulevard NE, Albuquerque 505-265-4933 · www.hartfordsq.com

Paella Mixta from Almería DAVID MARTINEZ WESTLEY, WHOLE FOODS MARKET

By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Whole Foods Market loves to inspire the aspiring chef in everyone. On their shelves they work hard to educate shoppers about the origins of food, its treatment on the farm, and its health benefits when eaten.

They offer basic staples and exotic specialty goods to enable anyone to create a meal just the right way.

In house, a team of hardworking cooks creates a huge array of prepared foods every day offered through the generous deli section of the store. In Santa Fe, the Whole Foods Market on Cerrillos is no exception.

Among the ranks of deli staff is David Westley, an aspiring chef and painter. Originally from Spain, Westley came to Santa Fe to pursue an art career, but being in one of the country’s culinary meccas has reignited his love for food.

He says working for Whole Foods has helped him tremendously by offering a steady job and benefits. This affords him

the time and resources to paint, and it inspires him to further pursue cooking as a creative career.

Whole Foods Market touts supporting team member happiness and excellence as one of its core values. Starting pay is generous compared to competitors, and they offer generous benefits as well. This working environment makes Westley excited to be in Santa Fe and to be part of a growing young creative class.

Next time you visit Whole Foods Market, consider asking your cashier, deli attendant, or shelf stocker what they love about food, and what they do beyond the grocery store.

You might be surprised how much talent and creativity you find.

PAELLA MIXTA FROM ALMERÍA

I have made some changes to it and added my own touch. The history of the paella began as a dish for poor people who needed to cook their leftover food before it went bad when there were no refrigerators. It eventually became a family tradition that many Spanish families do every Sunday. I have many memories of eating paella on Sundays with the whole family out in the countryside, on a beach, or at home. Each recipe changes from family to family and everyone has their own secret ingredients.

To get David's family recipe log on to: www.ediblesantafe.com/paella Whole Foods Market – Cerrillos Store 753 Cerrillos Road, Santa Fe 505-992-1700 www.wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/cerrillos

This is the paella I grew up with—my Spanish grandmother’s recipe from Almería, the southeastern corner of Spain.

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

47

New Mexican Steak and Wild Mushroom Summer Rolls ROCKY DURHAM, SANTA FE SCHOOL OF COOKING

By Katherine Mast

Being a professional chef is kind of like being a rock star, at least in the eyes of kids, says Rocky Durham, executive chef and coowner of the Santa Fe Culinary Academy.

Durham likes to use his celebrity status, years of training, and experiences around the world to pay it forward in Santa Fe. In addition to teaching aspiring culinarians, offering continuing education to established chefs, and sharing knowledge with young military personnel, Durham works with elementary school children through the Cooking with Kids program. “Even if I’m not teaching cooking classes, I’ll show up and hang out,” he says. “Letting kids know that there are adults out there who give a damn is so important.”

When Durham was thirteen, he had an adult mentor of his own. He learned to love the culinary arts while apprenticing at a French bistro in Santa Fe under Chef Jean Jacques Alexandre. “He was really patient and generous with his knowledge,” says Durham, “It kick-started my career.” Durham took that career to restaurants around the country and helped open several in England before returning home to Santa Fe. Durham tries to cultivate a life that connects him with this place he loves so well.

The Academy shares its excess food with St. Elizabeth’s Shelter, and Durham also prepares lunch boxes to offer in the plaza to homeless individuals. To stay connected to the land, Durham enjoys gathering wild mushrooms and ripe juniper berries. “If you’re living here and not going out and wandering in the dirt and picking piñon, you’re missing out on such a great opportunity,” he says. Knowing what wild foods grow in the nearby wilderness and when to harvest them is one way to strengthen the bond between our communities and our plates. And so is sharing food together. “Sitting down and breaking bread is where community begins.”

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NEW MEXICAN STEAK AND WILD MUSHROOM SUMMER ROLLS Serves 6 – 8 One of my favorite summer endeavors is foraging for amazing ingredients in the wilderness of New Mexico. Among my most prized ingredients is porcini mushroom (Boletus edulis).

This recipe pays homage to our community's diverse array of ingredients and cultures. When I fire up the grill I like to cook as much as possible for the meal on the grill. If the recipe calls for sautéing, I place the sauté pan right on the grill. The sautéed porcini mushrooms pick up wonderful aromatics when cooked this way.

1 pound grassfed beef flank steak or sirloin 1 pound fresh porcini mushrooms, sliced 2 tablespoons butter 4 cups arugula, dandelion greens, or verdolagas 6 cloves hard neck garlic, minced 3 juniper berries 3 tablespoons New Mexican red chile powder 2 tablespoons high-heat oil 1/2 tablespoon coarse kosher salt 1 tablespoons fresh ground black pepper 12 – 16 rice paper wrappers 1/2 cup soy sauce 1/4 cup fresh lime juice 1/4 cup water 1/2 teaspoon fish sauce Fire up your grill! Place garlic, juniper, chile, salt, and pepper in a mortar and process into a coarse paste. Add oil and thoroughly combine. Rub flank steak with garlic-chile paste on all sides and let sit for 30 minutes before grilling.

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Melt butter in a sauté pan and add porcini mushrooms. Sauté for 5 – 6 minutes or until browned around the edges, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and reserve.

Grill steak to a 135O F and remove from grill. Allow steak to rest covered in foil for 4 – 5 minutes. Slice steak very thinly against the grain and reserve.

Soak a rice paper wrapper in room temperature water until pliable. Place on a clean work surface and top with 1/4 cup of greens, then a few slices of mushroom and steak. Fold in sides and roll into a tight roll. Repeat until all the ingredients have been utilized.

Mix soy, lime, water, and fish sauce and serve as a dipping sauce with the summer rolls.

Santa Fe Culinary Academy 112 West San Francisco Street, Santa Fe 505-983-7445 · www.santafeculinaryacademy.com

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growth, “ In 2008, I expanded by five acres in Los Lunas, which is where I currently operate a u-pick while the Corrales fields are maturing for future use.”

While she loves the farm, her crowning accomplishment is her simple, but inspired organic jam. Eleftheriou grew her business as a stalwart user of the South Valley Economic Developments Center’s commercial kitchen, the Mixing Bowl. This year, her business has grown to the point where she has invested in a kitchen of her own. After she cooks the raspberries, she makes the jam by hand in small batches using a low sugar recipe in her kitchen. She cooks the raspberries slowly by putting them through a brief and delicate boiling phase. “This method ensures that the precious vitamins and beautiful color of the natural fruit are preserved for an exquisite raspberry experience,” she says.

RASPBERRY CUSTARD KUCHEN Serves 12– 18 Crust 1 cup flour 1/4 teaspoon salt 10 tablespoons butter, frozen 2 tablespoons whipping cream

Raspberry Custard Kuchen HEIDI ELEFTHERIOU, HEIDI’S RASPBERRY FARM

By Erin Frye Heidi Eleftheriou started her farm in 2000 to grow raspberries for her homemade jam.

However, her objectives quickly blossomed into much more. “My intent is to be a steward of the land, and to help preserve the Village of Corrales's rich agricultural heritage,” says Eleftheriou. She takes this credo seriously.

In 2003, she had her farm certified organic.

Eleftheriou is passionate about the creative ways she can work with nature on her farm.

For example, she employs a natural method to fend off bugs on the farm—a flock of wild turkeys living in the raspberries fields. This 50

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

year the New Mexico Department of Agriculture Organic Program recognized her as the Farmer of the Year for her efforts.

Eleftheriou started with two acres, which expanded withing the year to four acres. She originally planted the farm with Heritage Everbearing raspberries. In 2014, she replanted the fields with Himbo Top and Caroline varieties and added three rows of blackberries.

Eleftheriou has developed her business further in recent years with the addition of acreage south of Albuquerque. She describes her

Topping 1/2 cup sugar 1 tablespoon flour 2 eggs, beaten 1 cup whipping cream 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3 cups fresh or IQF frozen raspberries For the crust, preheat the oven to 375º F. In a large bowl combine flour and salt. With a coarse grater, grate butter into flour mixture. Stir several times until butter flakes are well coated with flour. Stir in 2 tablespoons cream. Pat dough into a greased deep 9 x 13-inch baking dish. Set in the refrigerator while preparing other ingredients.

In another mixing bowl, combine sugar and 1 tablespoon flour. Stir in eggs, cream, and vanilla. Spread berries evenly over the crust.

Pour custard mixture over berries. Bake for an hour or until lightly browned. Serve warm or chilled.

Heidi’s Raspberry Farm 505-898-1784 · heidisraspberryjam.com

Effen Good Cocktail NICOLE WYNNYK, SEASONS ROTISSERIE AND GRILL

By Valerie Ashe

ern Wine and Spirits employee Leif West. But to Seasons and to Wynnyk, mixing drinks isn’t just about experimenting with spirits and various concoctions behind the bar. It’s about honoring local craftspeople and ingredients— as local as their own premises.

Several Seasons employees live on or own farms—one employee even started his own winery—and the restaurant started growing its own mint and basil earlier this spring on the rooftop. In addition to supplying their own ingredients, Seasons has long patronized local farms and purveyors, such as Cecilia’s Organics, Talus Wind Ranch heritage meats, Tucumcari Mountain Cheese Factory, as well as local wineries, distilleries, and breweries such as Gruet Winery, KGB Spirits, Marble Brewery, and La Cumbre Brewing Company.

Seasons supports the local economy not only by sourcing regional food, but also by supporting the local workforce. “The reason we have a reputation for great service is that a lot of people work for Seasons for a very long time,” says Wynnyk. “They are great owners to work for and they take care of their employees—even down to feeding and caring for us.”

EFFEN GOOD COCKTAIL Serves 1 A cocktail inspired by the breeze through the trees—fresh, clean, and invigorating. It makes one feel Effen good!

Have you ever enjoyed a classic cocktail on Seasons’ rooftop patio on a warm summer evening? Looked out acroos the watermelon-hued sunset reflected against the Sandia Mountains? Or enjoyed a hot toddy inside Seasons’ festive, enclosed rooftop bar at Christmastime? If not, you are missing out.

Nicole Wynnyk has worked behind the locally famous bar for nearly five years. She lends her artistic bent to her craft at the well.

An artist at heart, architect and designer by training, and self-professed whiskey acolyte, Wynnyk infuses her cocktails with inspiration from a background in art and design.

Over the years she has crafted crowd-pleasing cocktails such as Meet Your Maker, featuring Maker’s Mark bourbon whiskey, ginger ale, and grapefruit bitters; and the Stiletto (Crown Royal Canadian whiskey mixed with Disaronno liqueur, vermouth, and orange bitters), which she credits to friend and South-

2 ounces Effen Cucumber Vodka 1/4 ounce vanilla bean and mint

infused agave nectar 1/2 ounce homemade lemonade Juice of 1/4 lemon 5 – 6 mint leaves 1 slice of cucumber Combine vodka, agave nectar, fresh lemon (just the juice), and mint in a Mason jar packed with ice. With a lid on, shake vigorously. Pour everything into Collins glass.

Top off with a splash of lemonade and a slice of cucumber.

Seasons Rotisserie and Grill 2031 Mountain Road NW, Albuquerque 505-766-5100 · www.seasonsabq.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

51

Fall

Red Chile Ravioli with Braised Duckling MATT YOHALEM, IL PIATTO ITALIAN FARMHOUSE KITCHEN

By Valerie Ashe

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While Il Piatto Italian Farmhouse Kitchen has been named a top restaurant by Esquire, the internationally renowned Gayot dining guide, and other national publications—and is consistently decorated with more accolades than a three-star general on travel advisor and social media sites—its heart and soul rest very comfortably at home, in Santa Fe. Il Piatto, Italian for “the dish,” has long been a bastion of locally sourced and meticulously handcrafted cuisine since opening its doors in 1996.

Matt Yohalem, owner and chef, has built the reputation of Il Piatto on creative menus that rely on high desert bounty such as local trout, meat, poultry, herbs, and produce.

While the ingredients are New Mexican, the cuisine hails mostly from northern Italy, with recipes from the birthplace of the Slow Food movement adapted to locally-sourced, seasonal ingredients. Il Piatto is not just a romantic place to share dinner with a love interest or to brood over a rustic glass of Italian wine in the custom wine cave, it is also a bright, well-lit place for lunch, featuring lighter fare for the afternoon and a threecourse prix fixe menu for a reasonable price.

A vibrant member of the Santa Fe community and local New Mexico food economy, Il Piatto claims as its partners in building the local food economy EarthCare, Farm to Table, and Slow Food Santa Fe. Yohalem and his team collaborate with these organizations in various local events and programs to promote food education and sustainable local economic development. An early pioneer in the local food movement in New Mexico that continues to receive praise and awards for its sustainability and leadership, Il Piatto has plenty to dish about.

RED CHILE RAVIOLI WITH BRAISED DUCKLING, RASPBERRY PRESERVES, MASCARPONE & PISTACHIO BUTTER Serves 8 RAVIOLI FILLING 4 duck legs 1 onion dried

1/4 cup Chimayó red chile, dried

and seeded 1 tablespoon garlic, chopped 1 tomato, chopped 1 cup red wine 1 cup chicken, duck, or beef stock 2 bay leaves 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped 2/3 cup Heidi's Red Chile

Raspberry Preserves 1/2 cup mascarpone cheese Salt and pepper Preheat oven to 400O F. In a casserole dish, add duck legs, onion, herbs, and chile. Roast 15 – 20 minutes or until duck is golden brown. Add remaining ingredients except mascarpone and raspberry preserves. Cook for another 2 hours or until duck falls from the bone with a fork.

Allow to cool. With hands, pick duck meat off bone into a bowl, then add cooked vegetables and mix well. Season with salt and pepper. Add mascarpone and raspberry preserves, then incorporate gently. Refrigerate.

RED CHILE SAUCE 1 cup Chimayó red chiles,

dried and seeded 1 teaspoon garlic, chopped 1 onion, diced 1 bell pepper, diced 1 tomato, chopped 1 pinch oregano 1 pinch thyme 1 teaspoon parsley 1 cup chicken stock Zest of 1 lemon Salt and pepper 1/2 cup olive oil 1/4 cup white wine In a small saucepan, heat olive oil. Add red chile and sauté for 1 – 3 minutes on medium heat. Add garlic, cook for 1 minute. Add remaining vegetables and spices, then reduce heat to simmer. Cover and cook for 10 – 15 minutes. Add remaining liquids, cook on medium heat for 12 – 15 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Allow to cool. Blend to smooth consistency. Refrigerate.

PISTACHIO BUTTER 1 cup pistachios, toasted 1/4 cup basil 1/2 teaspoon garlic, chopped

3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon red chile sauce Zest of 1 lemon Salt and pepper Blend all ingredients in a food processor until smooth. Refrigerate for storage.

PASTA 2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour 2 eggs 1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil 2 tablespoons red chile sauce Salt and pepper On a clean surface, mound flour into a volcano. Crack eggs over top. Add olive oil and salt and pepper. Work with hands into the dough adding the red chile sauce a little at a time. When dough forms, knead for 3 – 5 minutes. Feel free to add excess flour if dough becomes too sticky, or cold water if too dry. Cover with damp cloth. Refrigerate for 2 hours.

Roll out pasta on commercial or home pasta machine to level 0. Form dough into a rectangle about 4 inches wide and 1/4-inch thick. Start the machine on the widest setting. Run through machine multiple times, tightening the machine each time until reaching the narrowest setting.

As the dough gets too long, cut in half lengthwise to make more manageable. Using lightly floured ravioli plaques, place a pasta sheet over plaque. Paint the top with egg wash. Spoon a tablespoon of duck mixture into each hole. Top with second pasta sheet. Using a small pin, roll the top until the perforations show through. Dump pasta plaques onto a flour-dusted parchment paper on a cooking sheet.

Bring a large pot of water with a dash of salt to a boil. Add ravioli and cook until they float and the starch is dispersed, about 3 minutes. Remove and serve immediately topped with pistachio butter.

Il Piatto Italian Farmhouse Kitchen 95 W Marcy Street, Santa Fe 505-984-1091 · www.ilpiattosantafe.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

53

Roasted Butternut Squash and Apple Bisque ANGEL ESTRADA, MIDTOWN BISTRO

By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

many different ways. He enjoys frequent trips to the farmers market to pick up ingredients for the days creations. This spring he will join the ranks of culinary educators in Santa Fe as part of a program to teach the art of cooking to high school students at Capital High organized by Heather Sellers. He looks forward to passing on his experience, passion, and enthusiasm for good food to the next generation.

ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND APPLE BISQUE Serves 10 1 large butternut squash, peeled,

seeded, and cubed 2 tablespoons olive oil 8 tablespoons butter 2 yellow onions, diced 1/2 bunch celery, chopped 8 medium apples, cored, peeled,

and roughly chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/4 cup cooking white wine 6 cups vegetable stock 2 cups heavy cream 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg 1 tablespoon high-heat oil 12 sage leaves Salt and pepper Preheat oven to 375º F. In a bowl toss the squash with oil. Place squash on parchmentlined baking sheet and roast for 30 minutes.

When a new restaurant opens in a neighborhood of well-established eateries, it often feels a little like the new kid on the block.

How it will play with others and become a part of the community is always a question.

In the case of year-old Midtown Bistro, it seems to fit right in.

With a kitchen lead by executive chef Angel Estrada (formerly of Santacafé), and a mission to balance fine food and the ability to serve an exceptional lunch, Midtown Bistro has found its niche on West San Mateo. The bistro serves generous and diverse menus for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, most of which 54

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

change seasonally to reflect availability of the freshest produce.

Estrada came to Santa Fe from Chihuahua when he was sixteen. He has worked in the kitchens of some the city’s finest chefs, including David Sellers and Rocky Durham. He started his culinary career washing dishes and has worn nearly every other hat on the line.

When asked what he loves about cooking, his response is: Everything. He loves playing with seasonal ingredients and different flavors. Currently, he loves making soups—an ideal lunch dish which can be prepared so

While the squash bakes, start by frying the sage leaves. In a small frying pan over medium-high heat, bring the cooking oil to temperature. When the oil is hot, carefully add the sage leaves and fry for about 30 seconds. Using a fork, transfer to a paper towel.

Immediately sprinkle with salt and set aside.

In a large saucepan, melt butter. Add the onions, celery, apples, and garlic cloves, then sauté until translucent. Stir in cooking white wine and sauté for 5 minutes. Add vegetable stock, heavy cream, and nutmeg , then boil for 10 minutes.

Pour mixture into blender or food processor to puree. Pour puree through a mesh sieve.

Season with salt and pepper to taste. Ladle soup into warm bowls, garnish with fried sage leaves, and serve.

Midtown Bistro 901 West San Mateo Road, Santa Fe 505-820-3121 · www.midtownbistrosf.com

Rosemary Braised Beef Short Ribs XAVIER GRENET, L'OLIVIER

By Katherine Mast

2 garlic cloves, sliced 2 rosemary branches 1 tablespoon tomato paste 3 cups cooking red wine 3 cups beef stock Salt and pepper Preheat the oven to 350O F. Cut the short ribs in big 2-inch pieces. In a large sauté pan on medium-high heat, brown the short ribs on each side for 2 minutes. Add the onions, carrots, and garlic and cook for another minute.

Add the tomato paste, red wine, and stock.

Season well with salt and pepper, add rosemary, then bake in the oven at for 3 1/2 hours.

Mashed Potatoes 4 Yukon Gold potatoes 1 ounce of butter 1 ounce of green chile 2 ounces of Monterey jack, shredded 1/2 cup milk Salt and pepper

At the busy corner of West Alameda and Galisteo, a wrought iron fence and young evergreens border the outdoor patio of L’Olivier. Chef Xavier Grenet and his wife, Nathalie, opened the restaurant’s doors just one year ago. The elegant dining room inside the quaint building offers an intimate space to enjoy Grenet’s mouth-watering creations—a melding of traditional French cuisine with the spices and flavors of the Southwest.

Grenet brings twenty years of experience to L’Olivier as a chef in fine restaurants from Paris, New York City, and San Francisco to Santa Fe’s own Ristra.

Grenet enjoys working directly with local farmers to source the restaurant’s produce.

One farmer provides the squash blossoms, arugula, and swiss chard during the growing season, while another grows la ratte fingerling potatoes—a variety Grenet says is popular in France and perfect for making mashed potatoes. Grenet has seen growing interest by customers curious to know the origins of their food—particularly the meat and the fish. He proudly offers fresh fish shipped overnight from the harbor, produce harvested the day it is served, and local, organic meat whenever

possible. “You can really feel the difference between regular meat and organic,” he says.

It’s juicier and more flavorful. “I wish we could do that for everyone.”

As the restaurant’s one-year anniversary approaches, Grenet is pleased with what they have accomplished. “We are very happy here,” he says, and the community has been supportive. For him, there is no better feeling than to go home from a day at the restaurant with the compliments of his customers. “My greatest satisfaction is knowing that I bring happiness and pleasure to others through my food,” he says, “Cooking is bringing love to the table.”

ROSEMARY BRAISED BEEF SHORT RIBS Serves 4 This is one of Grenet's favorite recipes. This dish has been featured at the L'Olivier since opening in December 2013.

Short Ribs 4 10-ounce pieces of short rib 1 onion, chopped 1 carrot, chopped

Cut potatoes in half and put in a large pot.

Cover with water by several inches. Bring the pot to a boil over high heat. Reduce to medium and continue to boil for 15 – 20 minutes or until the potatoes are soft. Drain the water from the pot. Warm milk in the microwave.

Using a masher, smash the potatoes. Add milk, butter, cheese, and green chile. Stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Glazed shallots 4 shallots, sliced 1 tablespoon of butter 2 tablespoons honey In a small baking dish, bake the shallots in the oven with a piece of butter and honey for about 10 minutes at 350O F. Green beans 2 dozen green beans 1 tablespoon butter Cook the green beans in boiling water for 5 minutes. In the mean time, bring a skillet to medium-high heat. Strain the water from the beans. Add a tablespoon of butter to the hot pan, then the beans. Sauté for 2 – 3 minutes.

When the ribs are cooked the meat should fall off the bone. Strain the jus with a strainer.

Serve garnished with green beans, shallots, and potatoes.

L’Olivier 229 Plaza Blanca, Santa Fe 505-989-1919 · www.loliviersantafe.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

55

Poblanos Rellenos with Calabacitas con Maiz MARGARET CAMPOS, ALGO NATIVO FARM AND COMIDA DE CAMPO

By Nikki Lyn Pugh

“Local food is my business,” says Margaret Campos. “All of the vending machine products we sell are either produced or processed by us or sourced locally.”

Campos debuted her first farm-to-table vending machine at Holy Cross Hospital in Taos a couple of months ago. This life-long local farmer is no stranger to chemical-free sustainable produce, however. She also runs Algo Nativo Farm and Comida de Campo Inc. in Embudo with her mother Emerita.

Margaret’s grandfather, originally from Ojo Sarco, first came to Embudo more than fifty years ago. Like many children of farmers, Campos originally had no intention of taking over the family business. When her 56

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

grandfather passed away in 1987, however, she simply couldn’t let the land he had worked on for so many years go by the wayside. Campos quit her job in nearby Santa Fe and has been a full time farmer and agricultural advocate ever since.

“New Mexico imports more than ninetytwo percent of its food,” explains Campos, who is also a sustainable agricultural trainer with the American Friends Service Committee, a farm advisor with the New Mexico Acequia Association, and an adjunct professor at Northern New Mexico Community College. “The more our community comes to appreciate the value [of local products], the better off we will be.”

Algo Nativo Farm is nestled on the banks of the Rio Grande River and produces a plethora of crops including berries, asparagus, lettuce, radishes, tomatoes, peas, potatoes, herbs, and apples, just to name a few. The family also raises livestock, including chickens and pigs.

Visitors come to this quiet piece of heaven from all over to tour the farm, to participate in cooking classes through Comida de Campos Inc., and to sample truly authentic New Mexican cuisine.

Algo Nativo produce can be purchased at the Taos and Los Alamos farmers markets during the growing season. Most of what the Campos' family grows, however, goes for dishes prepared for their family, friends, and guests.

“I love knowing who produced and prepared my food,” says Campos, “And, of course, nothing tastes better than fresh product…the best ingredients always make the best dish!”

POBLANOS RELLENOS WITH CALABACITAS CON MAIZ Serves 6 – 8 Batter 1/2 cup milk 1 egg, separated 1 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 cup heavy cream 1/4 teaspoon salt 3 cups vegetable oil for frying Filling 12 poblano chiles 2 small zucchini or other summer

squash, diced 2 ears of corn, remove from husk 1 onion, finely chopped 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 4 – 6 ounces queso fresco, crumbled

First make the filling. In a saucepan over medium-low heat, bring olive oil to temperature. Sauté the corn, zucchini, and onion until the squash is slightly browned and the onion translucent. Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute. Reduce the heat to low, cover, then simmer for approximately 5 minutes until vegetables are soft. Stir occasionally to prevent burning.

Remove from heat and set aside to cool before stuffing chiles.

Slow roast poblano chiles in a 425O F oven for about 30 minutes, turning periodically.

Remove from the oven and cover with a wet cloth. Allow the peppers to steam at least a half hour. Carefully remove the peel. Slit the chile lengthwise, scoop out the seeds leaving the stem intact.

Separate the egg. Beat the white until firm peaks form. In a separate bowl, mix the yolk, flour, cream, milk, and salt. Fold in the egg white. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour; this will offer better frying results.

on o % t 5 2 p u e v Sa

In a cast iron skillet over medium heat, bring the vegetable oil to temperature; the oil should be hot without smoking.

Crumble the cheese into the filling and stir.

Without splitting further carefully spoon the filling into each chile. Stuff to the point where the sides of the opening overlap by 1/2-inch. Hold the poblano from the stem and gently dip each poblano into the batter (use a toothpick to hold closed if necessary.)

Carefully slip the battered poblano into the hot oil. Fry approximately 1 – 2 minutes on each side, turning over until all sides are golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon or tongs and drain on paper towels; place in a warm oven until served.

HINT: It is best to roast, peel, fill, and refrigerate the day before you fry your rellenos.

Algo Nativo Farm and Comida de Campo Embudo 505-852-0017 · www.comidadecampos.com

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South Valley. By her third season, Sweet had formed a business partnership with the Burgiones and started Sterling Gardens. The business is a small-scale, multiproperty operation that produces four seasons of pesticide-free vegetables, flowers, and herbs, which they sell to individuals at two farmers markets and to a number of local restaurants.

Sweet loves that local food is a collaborative effort. Last year she grew cayenne peppers for a local chef who wanted to produce his own hot sauce. Now, instead of reaching for Cholula, Albuquerque residents can enjoy locally sourced and handmade bottles of pepper sauce.

Collaboration also happens in the garden. Last spring she planted salad greens seed collected on another South Valley farm. The greens performed brilliantly, surely because they had been bred and selected in a nearby garden. So, instead of relying on a pre-packaged salad mix from a large seed company, Sweet cultivated a hyper-local salad mix that thrived in her garden and impressed on the plate.

Sweet believes that the best flavors (of hot sauce and of salad) are the result of small, collaborative efforts. She says, “The ethics of producing and consuming local food are important, but perhaps more importantly, local food almost always tastes better. How can you argue with that?”

ROASTED BEETS WITH PICKLED HOT PEPPERS AND RICOTTA Serves 4

Roasted Beets with Pickled Hot Peppers and Goat Milk Ricotta MARJORY SWEET, STERLING GARDENS

By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher Marjory Sweet, the driving force behind Sterling Gardens, moved to New Mexico four years ago, drawn by the wilderness, the ancient history, and an opportunity to work

58

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

outside. She began her career as a farmer as a tenacious intern at Chispas farm, an established four-acre organic garden run by Eli and Amanda Burgione in Albuquerque’s

This dish is a diagram of my fall season. It combines the last of the summer's hot peppers (preserved for winter storage) and the first fall beets. I spend those cooler, darker mornings out of the garden beds and in the barn milking South Valley goats. The reward is a pint of fresh goat milk, perfect for a batch of ricotta. Each component of this salad requires time and labor indoors—activity well suited to late autumn when the garden is asleep and one can retreat to the warmth of the kitchen to make and to feast.

You will have leftover pickles and cheese.

Add them to a platter with other treats like honey and toast, or package them up as winter gifts for friends.

Pickled Hot Peppers 4 pounds mixed hot peppers

(yellow hot, cayenne, jalape単o) 4 cups distilled white vinegar 2 cups water 1/2 cup sugar Salt Bring vinegar, water, sugar, and salt to a boil. Add peppers and return to a boil for 5 minutes.

Funnel peppers and brine into sterilized jars, seal, and let come to room temperature.

Transfer to refrigerator. They will keep for 1 month. Or can the peppers using a standard boiling water bath method.

Goat Milk Ricotta 4 cups fresh goat milk (raw, if available) 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons white vinegar

Set a large sieve over a deep bowl. Line sieve with 2 layers cheesecloth. Dampen the cloth with warm water. Combine milk and salt in a large, heavy pot. Bring to a full, rolling boil over medium heat.

Remove the pot from the heat and stir in vinegar. Let the mixture stand for a few minutes. Stir once. The milk should look curdled.

Pour the mixture into the cheesecloth and let drain for 30 minutes to an hour. If you prefer a looser ricotta, drain for less time.

The longer you drain, the firmer the cheese will be. Use immediately or refrigerate.

Salad 6 medium red beets (Red Ace, Early

Wonder, Bull's Blood all work) Olive oil Red wine vinegar Salt and pepper Fresh ricotta 1/4 cup pickled hot peppers Almonds, roughly chopped and toasted

Preheat the oven to 375O F. Toss beets with olive oil and salt, then arrange in a roasting pan. Add 1/4 cup water to pan. Cover with foil. Bake until beets are tender, about an hour.

Let cool to touch, peel and slice. Toss with olive oil, salt, pepper, and red wine vinegar. Set aside or refrigerate until ready to use. Add pickled hot peppers to beets.

Toss to combine.

Divide salad among 4 plates. Crumble ricotta, sprinkle almonds and drizzle olive oil over each serving.

Sterling Gardens 805 Riverside Drive SW, Albuquerque 207-522-6187

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

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Butternut Squash Hash ISRAEL RIVERA, THE SHOP BREAKFAST AND LUNCH

By Katherine Mullé Situated in Albuquerque’s hip and vibrant Nob Hill, The Shop Breakfast and Lunch is a restaurant that serves food inspired by American classics with Latin and Creole influences.

While owner Israel Rivera has had a love for cooking ever since he was old enough to watch and help his mother make delicious homemade recipes, he never imagined much would come of it. It wasn’t until he was in his twenties, after training with talented Albuquerque chefs and gaining experience in the restaurant business, that he thought to make a career out of his love for cooking. “That is where I really learned how to be a cook and to cook passion60

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

ately and professionally. I learned how to cook from the soul, and I really discovered my place in the kitchen and a lot about myself and the food I wanted to create.”

Thus, The Shop was born out of Rivera’s vision to create a casual neighborhood place, “a place where I wanted to eat—somewhere you could go and get something a little different, made from good, local, fresh ingredients, and made with a lot of love.” He also envisioned The Shop to be about the community and keeping things local. “Whether it’s Nob Hill, or the food community, or even the farming

community, we just want to be part of it, and we want to support the local guys, just like we want to be supported by the people in our community. Supporting locals and being supported by locals is one of our biggest priorities.” And in case supporting local for the sake of community wasn’t enough, by using local, organic, better ingredients, Rivera is confident that he’s able to make better food for his customers—food that they will feel good eating not only because they know it came from the kind farmer down the road, but because it’s truly fresh, healthy, and delicious.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH HASH Serves 2 This is an awesome way to start using the beautiful squash that pop up in late October.

It’s simple, filling, and warming on a chilly morning.

To start the hash, peel and chop the potatoes and butternut squash to the same size pieces. Place them in a large pot and cover with cold water. Boil the water, then turn down to a medium high flame and cook for about an hour. You want the potatoes to fall apart when you apply slight pressure, but not to be mushy. All those loose starches give you a great crispy crust on your hash. Drain potatoes and squash, and set aside.

Make sure you’ve got all your mise en place ready—diced onion, corn kernels, chopped up chard, drained potatoes and butternut squash, and roasted garlic. In a big-ass cast iron pan over high heat, add cooking oil and a dab of butter. Quickly, before the butter burns, add your potato and squash in a single layer. Then add the onions and corn kernels and nestle them between the cracks. You want everything to be flat because you’re creating the best part of the hash, the crust. Sprinkle generously with salt and black pepper, and just a pinch of the paprika and chile powder. Add more when you turn it. When the underside is a golden, use a spatula to get under as much of the hash as possible and flip it like a pancake. If necessary, do it in small batches.

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First things first, roast your garlic. Preheat oven to 300O F. Drizzle the head of garlic with oil, sprinkle with salt, and wrap in a little foil. Toss it in the oven for about an hour. The garlic is ready when it gets soft; also the smell of awesomeness is a good indicator of doneness.

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2 potatoes, diced 1 head of garlic, roasted 1 small butternut squash, diced 1 medium yellow onion, diced 1/2 cup fresh sweet corn 1 cup chard, chopped Smoked paprika Chile powder Cooking oil 2 eggs Olive oil Butter Salt and pepper

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Add another dab of butter and put it on top of everything to help form the bottom crust. Now add the roasted garlic and chard.

The steam should start to wilt the chard and heat the garlic.

After another few minutes the bottom should have a nice crust.

Toss the hash around to really cook the chard and to get that great garlic flavor all over the place. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, if needed.

Pile it high on a plate. Return the pan to the heat and add some oil or butter. Crack 2 eggs into the pan. They will take on color from the hash and pick up left over flavor. Cook to your desired doneness and place on top of hash. A little extra olive oil drizzled over the whole thing adds flavor.

The Shop Breakfast and Lunch 2933 Monte Vista Boulevard, Albuquerque 505-898-1784 · www.theshopbreakfastandlunch.com

Single Origin Coffee - 311 Gold Ave SW - (505) 814-1599

Sweet Sauteé on Sweet Potato Cakes

SWEET SAUTEÉ ON SWEET POTATO CAKES

JOSEPH WREDE, JOSEPH'S CULINARY PUB

Serves 4

By Marjory Sweet

In this multi-step recipe, everything happens from scratch. Rich flavors and textures come together to showcase fall New Mexico flavors. You’ll prepare the garnishes and main ingredients first, and then cook the sauté and sweet potato cakes just before plating.

Yogurt Sauce 1/2 cup yogurt 1/2 cup crème fraiche 2 tablespoons cilantro, chopped Salt and pepper Stir ingredients together. Refrigerate.

Sweet Potato Cakes 4 sweet potatoes 1 tablespoon fresh thyme 3/4 cup flour 2 teaspoons tamari 1 teaspoon salt 3 teaspoons sweet potato syrup 3 tablespoons green onions, chopped 1 tablespoon red Fresno pepper, diced 4 tablespoons ghee (for cooking later) Preheat oven to 450º F. Peel 4 sweet potatoes and quarter cut. Place in braising pan.

Cover wedges halfway in water. Cover pan with lid. Braise until soft to center of potato wedge, about 45 minutes.

For Joseph Wrede, restaurant cooking is more than just a job. It is a study in high art. His namesake establishment, Joseph’s Culinary Pub, demonstrates this philosophy in every detail, from the decor to the kitchen ingredients. With custom painted walls, a collection of antique copper, frescos, and sculptures collected by Wrede’s family, the space itself functions as a kind of gallery.

Items on the dinner menu read like poetry: cobia and Scottish fatty salmon sashimi with fried and dried salad, fried basil, leeks and spinach, dehydrated beets and squash, citrus supreme, mustard miso drizzle.

The best artists, in any field, apply both technique and imagination to their work.

Wrede is no exception. His credentials speak to his skill. A Food & Wine Best New Chef and winner of several AAA and Dis62

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

tinguished Restaurants of North America awards are among his many accolades.

What makes Wrede unique, however, is the way he applies this technical skill to such artful plates of food, caramel tamari duck fat ice cream, for example. Wrede’s creativity and resourcefulness thrive in the kitchen. He relies heavily on the possibilities, and limitations, of seasonal ingredients grown in Northern New Mexico, to create unexpected combinations. His playfulness and agility with local products is at once unusual and gratifying.

Wrede’s ambitions pay off. With the help of his creative team, he claims to transform standard fare restaurant dining into “an interactive play between the pub and the public.” The result is an experience as profound and well-curated as painting or performance.

Remove wedges and set aside. Reserve remaining water. In a saucepan over high heat, reduce water until it forms a syrup.

Add 1 tablespoon of fresh thyme.

Place cooked sweet potatoes in a 10 x 10inch square of cheesecloth. Gather corners of cheesecloth. Pull sweet potatoes into a ball at bottom of cloth; squeeze liquid out of potatoes into saucepan of reduction.

Once liquid is removed, place sweet potatoes in mixing bowl and add flour, tamari, salt, 3 teaspoons sweet potato syrup, green onions, and red pepper. Mix thoroughly.

Form into thin patties 3 inches wide and 3/8 inch thick. Set aside.

Poached Apples 2 cups white wine 3/4 cup Madeira 5 tablespoons sweet potato syrup 1 1/4 cup orange juice

2 cloves star anise 1 stick cinnamon 2 tablespoons nutmeg, grated 2 apples, peeled, cored, and halved In a medium pot combine all ingredients except apples and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer. Place apples in liquid. Poach apples to al dente, about 20 minutes. Remove apples and set aside to cool. Strain out remaining ingredients from poaching liquid and reserve. Once the apples have cooled thinly slice and set aside.

Caramelized Fennel 2 bulbs fennel, stalks removed and finely diced 1 tablespoon ghee 1 tablespoon sweet potato caramel In a sauté pan over medium heat, warm ghee. Add fennel. Sweat and stir until light green. Add sweet potato caramel, and stir. Take off heat and set aside.

Charred spinach 1 large handful baby spinach 1 tablespoon ghee Preheat oven to 500º F. In a 6-inch oven-safe pan, place handful of cleaned baby spinach and 1 tablespoon ghee. Bake until charred, about 4 – 6 minutes.

Preparing Start with the sweet potato cakes. In a large cast iron skillet over high heat, add enough ghee to coat the pan. Put sweet potato cakes in pan and fry until brown on the edges. Place in warm oven. Repeat until you’ve cooked all the cakes.

Sauteé 1 tablespoon ghee 1/2 pound fresh porcini mushrooms Caramelized fennel Poached apples Poaching liquid (from apples) 1 tablespoon butter In a large pan over high heat, add ghee. Add mushrooms, sliced apple, and caramelized fennel, then stir until golden. Deglaze using enough apple-poaching liquid to cover ingredients. Once bubbles form, turn heat off and lightly stir in butter.

Plating Place 2 warm sweet potato cakes on a plate, 1 at each end. Put charred spinach in middle of plate, equal in size to each sweet potato cake. Spoon contents of sauté onto each cake. Drizzle yogurt sauce in lace pattern across plate. Serve.

Joseph's Culinary Pub 428 Agua Fria Street, Santa Fe 505-982-1272 · www.josephsofsantafe.com

Calling all

Farmers and Chefs!

Field-to-Fork Project

Chef/Farmer Mixer Breakfast + Production Planning Meeting What produce will chefs be looking for this coming year?

Which growers will be growing year round? Chefs and growers-find answers to questions like these and connect over breakfast to make 2015 “field-to-fork” plans.

Monday, December 8 from 9 – 11:30am

Farmer Production Planning Meeting This event is geared for growers to maximize resources and income while meeting restaurant demand for local produce!

It will be a venue for farmer-to-farmer connections-a place where you can talk with your neighboring growers about 2015 farm plans and prepare for a more bountiful season!

Wednesday, January 14 from 9 – 11am

LandLink Mixer Landowners/landseekers, mentors/mentees, rookie/experienced ag producers—connect with the ag resources you need!

Central New Mexico LandLink will host a mixer to connect those offering agricultural opportunities like land, apprenticeships, jobs and more with those seeking opportunities.

Wednesday, February 11 from 9 – 11:30am

All meetings located at the MRCOG offices: 809 Copper NW, Albuquerque.

RSVP at:

www.ediblesantafe.com/fieldtofork

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

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APPLE TART TATIN WITH GOAT CHEESE CARAMEL SAUCE Serves 8 Caramel Sauce 1/2 cup granulated sugar 3 tablespoons salted butter, cubed 1/4 cup heavy cream 1/4 teaspoon salt Tatin 1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed 2 pounds crisp local apples 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/4 teaspoon vanilla bean paste 3/4 cup sugar 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 8 ounces soft local goat cheese 1 cup caramel sauce

Apple Tart Tatin with Goat Cheese Caramel Sauce CATHERINE O'BRIEN & GLENDA GRISWOLD, TERRACOTTA

By Valerie Ashe Chef Catherine O'Brien and her business partner Glenda Griswold, opened TerraCotta Wine Bistro in July 2013, building on the success of their longstanding Santa Fe catering business, Peas 'n' Pod. Both women bring a broad, celebrated background in fine dining, hospitality, and catering to TerraCotta. Chef O'Brien received formal training and earned her culinary degree with high honors from Johnson and Wales University in Rhode Island. Her career spans more than twenty-five years, including stints as chef garde manger at the Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress in Orlando, Florida, and as corporate catering chef for the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, DC. Griswold also brings more than twenty-five years of experience to the business, including in-house catering director at the National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC and general manager of several fine-dining restaurants along the eastern seaboard. Her professional experience in and passion for interior design 64

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

manifests in the elegant yet casual style of the restaurant and wine bar, cozily situated in a century-old adobe structure.

TerraCotta’s menu items change seasonally and reflect the owners’ culinary experience, international travels, and East Coast roots— from an original Jacques Pepin French onion soup recipe (Chef O’Brien was once a Pepin understudy) to crowd-pleasing, high-desert crab cakes. O’Brien and Griswold incorporate local beef, lamb, pork, cheese, and produce on the menu, admittedly finding local ingredients superior to other available products. As a small local business, they characterize their efforts as an interdependent part of the Santa Fe community. “We depend on our local clientele to support us throughout the year. When the economy is happy, then our restaurant is happy,” says Chef O’Brien. When asked what she loves most about local food, she replies, “The people who sell it.”

Start with the caramel sauce. In a medium sauce pan over medium heat, add sugar, stirring constantly until it melts. Carefully add the butter while continuing to stir. Slowly add the heavy cream, stirring carefully as the mixture may sputter. After adding the cream, allow to boil about 1 minute more. Remove from heat and add salt. Allow to cool to room temperature.

Preheat oven to 425O F. In a 10-inch cast iron skillet, combine sugar, vinegar, and vanilla bean paste. Stir over a medium flame until the sugar dissolves. Continue cooking without stirring for 5 minutes or until the syrup is amber colored. Remove from the heat.

Add half the butter and stir until melted. Let cool for 10 minutes. Peel, core, and slice the apples into quarters. Place the apples on top of the syrup in a circle. Add the remaining butter in pieces. Carefully put the puff pastry on top of the apples and tuck it down around them. Bake for 25 minutes or until the crust is golden brown and the juice from the apples bubbles up. Let cool for approximately 10 minutes and invert onto a rimmed plate.

Whip the room temperature goat cheese lightly with a whisk. Fold in the caramel sauce. Drizzle over the slices of tart tatin when ready to serve.

TerraCotta 304 Johnson Street, Santa Fe 505-989-1166 · terracottawinebistro.com

Whiskey in November JAMES REIS, ROSEWOOD INN OF THE ANASAZI

By Katherine Mast

Reis arrived in New Mexico from California where he had worked in the music industry. “I lost my job to Napster,” he says, so decided to pursue a degree in philosophy at UNM. In 2006, as his wife was expecting their first child, he began his career at Anasazi. In a restaurant that caters to welltraveled visitors, Reis’s philosophy degree comes in handy. “We’re not sitting around talking about Kant or Descartes,” he says, but it does give him an open-minded approach, both to customer interactions and to innovations at the bar.

A few years ago, Reis made waves by offering fine tapas-sized cocktails, or “couptails,” as he calls them. After watching patrons frequently leave half-finished glasses behind, he decided to craft smaller options. Across the country, there has been a slow shift toward both smaller and lower-alcohol-content mixed drinks. It gives people a chance to, consciously or not, be more responsible about what they drink while still enjoying the complexities of a carefully crafted cocktail.

By incorporating local spirits, southwestern spices, and fresh fruits into his drinks, Reis also helps patrons understand the variety of New Mexico’s landscapes. “When people come [to New Mexico], many people think it’s just desert,” he says. By showing off local bounty, Reis hopes to change that perception.

WHISKEY IN NOVEMBER Serves 1 A hot drink for the changing of the seasons.

At the Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi in

touches of the region to his mixed drinks as

Santa Fe, heavy vigas on the ceiling, willow-

well. “Every aspect of the hotel, from the decor

slatted shutters over the windows, and a stone

to the dining, is as authentic as possible,” says

wall riff on traditional Puebloan construction.

Reis. His specialties lean toward spicy rather

But the New Mexican flavor doesn’t end with

than sweet, and he likes to feature unique,

the decor, or even with Executive Chef Juan

niche products that out-of-town guests may

Bochenski’s entrees at the Anasazi Restaurant;

not know, like the Silver Coyote Pure Malt

James Reis, head bartender, makes sure to add

Whiskey from Santa Fe Spirits.

1 1/2 ounces Silver Coyote 1/4 ounce Johnny Walker Double Black 1/4 ounce Cuarenta Y Tres 3 ounces hot cider 1 – 2 dashes Fee Brothers Aztec

Chocolate Bitters

Combine alcohol in hot coffee glass. Top with hot cider. Garnish with Fuji apple peel and a splash of bitters.

Anasazi Restaurant and Bar at Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi 113 Washington Avenue, Santa Fe 505-988-3030 · www.rosewoodhotels.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

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Authentic

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Delicious

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EAT LOCAL GUIDE

New Mexico has its own unique food traditions —from Hatch to Chimayó—and we’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants and chefs that create the distinctively New Mexico dining experience. Restaurants are chosen for this dining guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients in their menus and their commitment to real food.

CE

Support these restaurants, and support local food communities.

colombian bistro

now open

tuesday-saturday 11am-8pm

3216 Silver SE, Albuquerque 505-266-2305, www. ajiacobistro.com Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by a diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia.

Cultural traditions of different Colombian ethnic groups play a roll in our choice of ingredients.

The

2929 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-554-1967, www.amoreabq.com

Brew by

villa myriam

311 Gold SW, Albuquerque 505-814-1599, www.villamyriam.com

New Mexico's only certified authentic, handcrafted, wood-fired Neapolitan pizza. Handmade mozzarella, dessert pizzas, local beers, Italian wines. Casual atmosphere and rooftop patio.

Family owned from farm to cup, we are steeped in three generations of coffee excellence.

5901 Wyoming NE, Albuquerque NEW: 1710 Central SW, Albuquerque 505-821-1909, www.5starburgers.com

300 Broadway NE, Albuquerque 505-265-4933, www.hartfordsq.com

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of sandwiches, salads, a kid’s menu, beer and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

Our seasonal menu features local ingredients and changes weekly—enjoy the variety! Breakfast, lunch, and dinners-to-go. Sunday Brunch. Specialty coffee. Wonderful baked goods. Catering.

4003 Carlisle NE, Albuquerque 505-884-3625, www.nmpiecompany.com

1403 Girard NE, Albuquerque 505-792-1700, www.piattininm.com

Handmade sweet and savory pies with an emphasis on simple, pure flavors, and premium ingredients.

Locally roasted coffee and espresso drinks compliment our pies. Order your holiday pies now!

Piattini, “small plates” in Italian, serves small and large plate Italian creations in a warm and friendly neighborhood atmosphere, using local, fresh ingredients and featuring a beer and wine bar.

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8917 4th NW, Albuquerque 505-503-7124, www.farmandtablenm.com A wonderful dining experience! Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm.

4803 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque 505-344-9297, www.lospoblanos.com Rooted in organic ingredients from our own farm and the Rio Grande Valley region. Join us at La Merienda, Wed-Sat 6-9pm, by reservation only.

10601 Montgomery NE, Albuquerque 505-294-9463, www.savoyabq.com California wine country in the Northeast Heights.

Farm-to-table dining from the area's best farms.

Wine tastings and happy hour.

ALBUQUERQUE

2031 Mountain NW, Albuquerque 505-766-5100, www.seasonsabq.com Oak fired grill, local ingredients, and the best patio dining Old Town has to offer!

600 Central SE, Albuquerque 505-248-9800, www.thegrovecafemarket.com The Grove features a bustling cafĂŠ experience serving breakfast, brunch and lunch. Local, seasonal, organic foods, Intelligentsia, coffee and tea, beer, wine, and signature sweets.

3109 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-268-9250, www.yannisandlemoni.com Yanni’s and Lemoni Lounge, located in Nob Hill for twenty years, serve the freshest seafood, steaks, chops, pasta, gourmet pizza, and homemade desserts.

LOS LUNAS

109 Gold, Albuquerque 505-244-3344, www.soulandvine.com

88 Louisiana SE, Albuquerque 505-268-0206, www.talinmarket.com

Come experience traditional American Style Tapas.

We serve beautiful wines and local craft beers.

We invite you to fall in love with our ambiance, food, drink, and staff. Cheers!

Talin T-Bar Traditional flavors Made quickly and with love Ramen. Monday: Dumplings!

2933 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-433-2795, theshopbreakfastandlunch.com

1828 Central SW, Albuquerque, 505-842-5507 www.vinaigretteonline.com

Come in for breakfast or lunch, creative American classics with Latin and creole influences, made from local and organic ingredients.

Our salad-centric philosophy focuses on bold flavor combinations and savory proteins to compliment a huge variety of organic greens.

3423 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-255-8226, www.zacatecastacos.com Zacatecas features recipes handed down from generation to generation with flavors that are true to the history and culture of Mexico.

Zacatecas is a real taqueria.

PLACITAS

3009 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-254-9462, www.zincabq.com A three level bistro featuring contemporary cuisine with a French flair. Dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails, and tasty bar bites!

SANTA FE

Creative Casual Cuisine

5 Thomas, Los Lunas 505-866-1936, www.greenhousebistro.com Good food always puts you in a good mood!

Fresh, seasonal ingredients provide the basis for a meal that promotes healthy living.

221 Highway 165, Placitas 505-771-0695, www.bladesbistro.com

4056 Cerrillos, Santa Fe 505-438-1800, www.bluecornbrewery.com

Chef and owner Kevin Bladegroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an award-winning wine list.

A local favorite since 1997! Featuring awardwinning, handcrafted beers brewed on location. Northern New Mexican cuisine and contemporary comfort food highlighting local, sustainable ingredients.

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

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SANTA FE

222 N Guadalupe, Santa Fe 505-954-1635, fireandhopsgastropub.com Upscale pub food in a casual setting. Eleven craft beers on tap, select wines, and artisanal ciders.

428 Agua Fria, Santa Fe 505-982-1272, www.josephsofsantafe.com Joseph's is the latest incarnation of Chef Joseph Wrede's mission to bring together the finest ingredients, artistic vision, and delightful, surprising flavor to every dish.

604 N Guadalupe, Santa Fe 505-983-8977, www.5starburgers.com

95 W Marcy, Santa Fe 505-984-1091, www.ilpiattosantafe.com

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of sandwiches, salads, a kid’s menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

A local favorite since 1996, boasting an authentic Italian farmhouse experience, sourcing its ingredients directly from local farms, dairies, and ranches. Extensive wine list.

L’OLIVIER 229 Galisteo, Santa Fe 505-989-1919, www.loliviersantafe.com Chef Xavier Grenet creates elegant and refreshing cuisine combining classic French culinary techniques with southwestern flavors and ingredients.

125 East Palace, Santa Fe 505-988-5232, www.lacasasena.com A local favorite for over thirty years! Chef Gharrity features New American West cuisine infused with fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients.

We also feature an award-winning wine list.

CAFFÉ BAR TRATTORIA

100 E San Francisco, Santa Fe 505-982-5511, www.lafondasantafe.com

228 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe 505-989-1904, www.mangiamopronto.com

Showcasing contemporary interpretations of old favorites with New World influences and classic New Mexican cuisine, accompanied by an award-winning wine list.

A little slice of Tuscany in Santa Fe. Enjoy italian comfort food, gelato, espresso, wine, and beer all day long on our beautiful sidewalk patio.

505 Cerrillos and 1098 S St. Francis, Santa Fe 505-982-9692, www.ohoriscoffee.com The original specialty, local micro-roasted coffee source since 1984. Along with our fresh beans, we serve espresso, pour-over, teas, pastries, donuts, burritos, chocolates, and more.

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901 W San Mateo, Santa Fe 505-820-3121, www.midtownbistrosf.com Midtown bistro, featuring Executive Chef Angel Estrada, offers Santa Fe gourmet fine dining with a Southwest flair.

815 Early, Santa Fe 505-989-1288, www.rasajuice.com

20 Buffalo Thunder, Santa Fe 505-819-2056, www.buffalothunderresort.com

An organic juice bar and café committed to offering delicious plant-based foods, cold pressed juices, and innovative cleansing and detox programs.

Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder is perfect for your next romantic night out. Fare rotates seasonally. Enjoy the extensive wine list.

SANTA FE

414 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe 505-955-0765, www.riochamasteakhouse.com Serving the finest prime and choice chops, dry-aged steaks, and seafood. Chef Tony Blankenship's philosophy is “real food, natural ingredients.”

Wine list features more than 800 labels and twenty wines by the glass.

505 Cerrillos, Santa Fe 505-780-5073, www.talinmarket.com

304 Johnson, Santa Fe 505-989-1166, www.terracottawinebistro.com

Talin T-Bar Traditional flavors Made quickly and with love Ramen. Monday: Dumplings!

A smart, casual restaurant located in a charming one-hundred-year-old adobe. Seasonallychanging, globally-inspired cuisine and an extensive, valued-priced wine list.

653 Canyon Road, Santa Fe 505-982-4353, www.compoundrestaurant.com

112 West San Francisco, Santa Fe 505-983-7445, santafeculinaryacademy.com

The Compound Restaurant has a heritage rich in history and regional influences. Chef Mark Kiffin continues to preserve a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution.

The Guesthouse is a student workshop and showcase through the SFCA. The menu reflects the curriculum and changes regularly to embrace local, seasonal products. Reservations recommended.

709 Don Cubero Alley, Santa Fe, 505-820-9205 www.vinaigretteonline.com Our salad-centric philosophy focuses on bold flavor combinations and savory proteins to compliment a huge variety of organic greens.

TAOS

124 F Bent Street, Taos 575-758-0606 THE BEST COFFEE IN TAOS! Fair trade, organic espresso, chai frappes, smoothies, gelato, and pastries. Featuring the only ROCKBAR ever! Come on in and drop a rock in YOUR drink!

125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos 575-758-1977, www.taosinn.com Serving lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch.

Patio dining, fresh local foods, award-wining wines, and margaritas. Try our signature chile rellenos.

1032 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur, Taos 575-758-8484, www.5starburgers.com Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of sandwiches, salads, a kid’s menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

TAOS DINER I & II

123 Bent Street, Taos 575-758-1009, www.lambertsoftaos.com Lambert’s strives to create a sanctuary for our guests, where they can enjoy delicious food, wine, and cocktails in a relaxed, yet refined, atmosphere.

908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374 216B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989 www.taosdinner.com

103 East Taos Plaza, Taos 575-758-8866, www.thegorgebarandgrill.com

Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown, and organic breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine.

Our menu is straightforward yet eclectic, and chock full of favorites made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible.

WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

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edible DC

Celebrating the Local Food Culture of the Capitol Region, Season by Season

Mick Klug on Peaches

Refresh: Cold Summer Soups T H E H E I R LO O M TO M ATO

SUMMER 2014

•

A MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

•

ISSUE 24

Support Local Community, Food & Drink Member of Edible Communtiies

Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 25 • Summer 2014

Javier Plascencia | Organic Beer | Smit Farms | No-dirt Gardening Tulloch Farms | Crime in the Fields | Native Plant Gardening

edible Toronto Member of Edible Communities

®

AND THE GOLDEN HORSESHOE No. 15 • Spring 2011

edible TULSA

Inspired | Informative | Influential

Spring’s Bean Sprung!

Overindulge in Asparagus while the Local Pickings are Good Romance the Palate, Latin American Style Taste Prince Edward County Resurrect Tradition

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Support Local Community, Food & Drink Member of Edible Communities

805-705-9178

Mulled Cider CHRIS MILLIGAN, SECRETO LOUNGE AT THE ST. FRANCIS HOTEL

By Valerie Ashe crafted New Mexico beers and wines. “We try to make our cocktails as they were done in the classic sense, when the season's harvest was what guided a bar,” says Milligan.

He takes pride in the artisanal cocktails and mixers created behind Secreto’s bar, including a house-made autumn bitters infused with spices that evoke the winter holidays: cinnamon, cloves, allspice, and other aromatics. Recognized internationally for its innovation in cocktail culture, Secreto is the recipient of numerous national and local awards. It celebrates both traditional and new recipes in its drinks menu and welcomes guests to challenge bartenders to make a drink that suits their taste. Milligan sums it up, “Santa Fe is a huge culinary mecca, and Secreto is very proud to be a part of the bar world that is elevating locally sourced cocktails to the same level as local, sustainable food.”

MULLED CIDER A warm cup of mulled cider and the smell of a piñon fire are a perfect way to end a winter day.

1/2 gallon local cold pressed apple cider 4 cinnamon sticks 20 cloves 2 star anise 1 orange 1 1/2 ounces Colkegan Whisky

Chris Milligan, Secreto Lounge’s awardwinning mixologist and syndicated blogger (The Santa Fe Barman, www.santafebarman. com), hails from the South by way of Tennessee and Georgia. Since arriving in the Southwest eighteen years ago, he has shared his passion for the cocktail with thirsty Santa Feans. “I am always fascinated with the history of a cocktail—how it came around, its origins, and how it has stood the test of 72

edible Santa Fe | EARLY WINTER 2014

time,” says Milligan. He also loves bringing people together and pairing appropriate cocktails during holiday gatherings. He believes in the cheer good beverages bring.

A pioneer of garden-to-glass premium craft cocktails, Milligan and the Secreto mixologists use locally made spirits as well as local produce and herbs to create their drinks. The bar menu also features locally

Cut the orange into 4 or 5 slices crosswise, then stick the cloves in the slices. Pour cider into a saucepan. Add all ingredients except booze. Heat over medium heat, stirring occassionally. Before it boils, reduce heat and simmer until your house is full of the aroma.

In a coffee mug, add whisky, then top off with cider.

Secreto Lounge 210 Don Gaspar Avenue, Santa Fe 505-983-5700 · www.secretolounge.com

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classic new mexican elegance "

private dining • guest rooms • special events