edible
THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD FROM
Member of edible communities
Summer 2012
SANTA FE ® ALBUQUERQUE TAOS
The Art of Summer
TO
ARTIST DIARIES • SUMMER ENTERTAINING • SUMMER COCKTAILS
• A f f o r dAb l e P lAn s • m o r e t hA n 8 , 0 0 0 h e A lt h cA r e P r o v i d e rs • W o r l dWi d e e m e r g e n c y c o v e rAg e
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SUMMER 2012 - The art of summer issue in every issue
Features
2
Letter from Editor
18
4
Table Hopping by Sergio Salvador
6
Destination Neighborhood: Canyon Road
A Very Grown up Popsicle by Michelle Gourley-Gile
28
Summer Read: Tasting New Mexico by Cheryl
by Sheli Armstrong
and Bill Jamison
10
NM Farmers Markets Summer 2012
Artist’s Diaries:
14
What’s Fresh, What’s Local: Lavender, Lavender Lemonade, Lavender Ice Cream
20 22
32
41
44
Compose, Decompose: An artist views change through the lens of compost by Jan Brooks The Enchanted Garden: An Artists Odyssey – Journey of Transformation by Nissa Patterson
Memoir: Tasting Beauty by Elizabeth Grant Thomas
Tales of Thatcher Gray: A Year in Grandpa’s Garden by Lee Lee
Cooking Fresh: The Art of Summer Entertaining - Al fresco entertaining a la James Beard, New Mexico Style by Andrea Feucht
30
38
Cocktail Culture: Art or Craft? By Chris Milligan
On the Cover
56
last bite: Zucchini by Lee Lee and Paul Leonard
Southwest Table: Prickly Pear and Mesquite
Lemonade. Photo by Stephanie Cameron
On this Page
Lavender Field. Photo by Carole Topalian.
by Lois Ellen Frank
38
Urban Foraging by Amelia White
48
Eat Local Guide
52
Edible Events, Summer 2012
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1
edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
letter from the editor
Publisher Bite Size Media, LLC
Here we are again, getting ready for the heat, and hopefully a healthy monsoon season here in New Mexico. The seasons really do seem to fly by; the sense of time passing so quickly must have something to do with the pace in which we all live our lives. We live in a world of instant communication, instant information, and instant gratification - and summer if you will, much like winter can be, is the antidote. The blazing hot days force us to move slower, conserve energy, take cover in the cool shade of the portal, and sip a tall, deliciously cold glass of lemonade made fragrant with sweet lavender and citrusy verbena. Not a bad way to pass a few hours every day. With this issue, we invite you to slow down and do just that, celebrate summer! Remember Popsicles in summertime? Michelle Gourley reminisces about her summertime favorite - Root Beer Popsicles, and she has of course given us some updated recipes. Everybody entertains somebody in New Mexico in the summer, why not al fresco with a gorgeous menu put together by our James Beard chef nominees? We've got you covered in the food department - everything from farmers’ market shopping to urban foraging for stone fruits and rose petals to artisanal cocktails. If you're a gardener, you will appreciate the quest our artist contributors in this issue, and how food and gardens have inspired and shaped their current works, and in one instance – a home. Traveling our beautiful state this summer? There's much to do and see in the food and drink department. A farmers’ market in a new town is a great snapshot of place. We’re partnering with Homegrown New Mexico again this year, and will be hosting the Second Annual Kitchen Garden and Coop Tour in Santa Fe on July 29th. It's a great way to spend a Sunday; peek at local home vegetable and flower gardens that are home to chickens and bees, meet the homeowners, and visit with neighbors and friends. For more info and tickets, visit www.homegrownnewmexico.org. Want to learn a new kitchen trick? Edible Santa Fe is sponsoring a series of cooking classes to be held at Hanks House in Albuquerque, and at Los Poblanos Inn. We'll be hosting both local and out of town chefs and foodies who will teach us everything from grilling techniques to cooking from our CSA box - and everything in between. Visit www.kitchensinkstories. com for a list of classes, registration and location information, and to find out more! Don't forget to check out our Edible Events calendar for summer, and plan your travel accordingly. If you'd like any of this information at your fingertips - please download our iPhone and iPad app where you will find updated listings and guides for travel all in one convenient place: Destination Neighborhoods, Eat Local Guide, Beer Trail Maps and Farmers' Market listings, local video, and more - all a touch away when you're on the road this summer. Have a safe, cool, happy summer!
Kate Manchester, Editor
edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
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Associate Publisher Sarah Wentzel-Fisher
Editor Kate Manchester
Contributors Sheli Armstrong, Jan Brooks, Andrea Feucht, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, Lois Ellen Frank, Michelle Gourley, Cheryl and Bill Jamison, Lee Lee, Chris Milligan, Nissa Patterson, Sergio Salvador, Nancy Sutor, Elizabeth Grant Thomas, Amy White
Contributing Editors Deborah Madison, Amelia White, Christie Green, Lorelei Kellogg
AD Design Stephanie Cameron
design and layout Stephanie Cameron
web & social media editors Stephanie Cameron, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher
PHOTOGRAPHY Stephanie Cameron, Jennifer Esperanza, Lois Ellen Frank, Sergio Salvador, Carole Topalian
Video Producer D. Walt Cameron
ADVERTISING Regional, National, Events: Sheli Armstrong D. Walt Cameron
CONTACT US: 551 W. Cordova Road #511 Santa Fe, NM 87505 info@ediblesantafe.com www.ediblesantafe.com Subscribe • Give a Gift Buy an Ad • LETTERS 505-212-0791 or WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or e-mail us at info@ ediblesantafe.com edible Santa Fe takes pride in providing it subscribers with fast, friendly, small town service. edible Santa Fe is published five times a year, spring, summer I and II, fall and winter, by Bite Size Media, LLC. Distribution is throughout Central and Northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2012 All rights reserved.
edible SANTA FE
2nd ANNUAL
KITCHEN GARDEN & COOP TOUR Join Home Grown New Mexico and edible SANTA FE for our Second Annual Kitchen Garden & Coop Tour in Santa Fe. Our tour will feature seven gardens and attendees will be able to discuss the features with the homeowners.
Date: July 29, 2012 | Time: 9am-2pm | Location: 7 Gardens featured in Santa Fe Tickets: $35 Advance Purchase only at BrownPaperTickets.com
For more information on the tour visit homegrownnewmexico.org or ediblesantafe.com.
TM
Inspire, educate, taste, & connect through the story of food. • Coming in August: Canal House Chefs and Writers: Christopher Hirsheimer & Melissa Hamilton
• Cooking Classes and Workshops • Recipe Writing and Blogging • Food Photography • Special Guest Chefs and Writers
A combination of hands on cooking classes, special guests and lectures, Kitchen Sink Stories aims to bring the best teachers and game-changers in food today to our community. Learn a new technique; pair a local wine or craft brew with a dish you’ve created; create something fresh from a local CSA box. Learn everything from how to write a recipe, to the nuts and bolts of food photography. Visit with award-winning chefs, authors and food rebels. Meet your community and join the great big, lively conversation at our table!
brought to you by
edible
SANTA FE
Log on to register now: KitchenSinkStories.com
notable edibles
Table Hopping Story and Photos by Sergio Salvador In the wake of Santa Fe’s high-profile restaurateur Mark Kiffin who opened Zacatecas in Nob Hill, Duke Citizens are in for what might be the beginning of a welcome trend. Erin Wade, the owner of Santa Fe’s beloved Vinaigrette, has formally leased a space and broken ground on her new Albuquerque location. With much of the produce for Wade’s ambitious menu sourced directly from her Nambé-area farm and via local farmer’s markets, Vinaigrette calls to mind the farm-to-fork sensibility of recently opened, and already very well-regarded, Farm & Table. Wade had been looking at different local markets for what she described as ‘responsible expansion’, but never looked back once Infill Solutions partner Jay Rembe showed her the plans for a multi-use, walkable neighborhood center with her restaurant as the anchor. “I think Albuquerque is really coming up and I’m looking forward to being in a market that is less seasonal, and I really admire Jay’s vision for the project.” Wade anticipates a mid-September opening of the restaurant, which will be located in Albuquerque’s country club area on Central just east of Rio Grande. www.vinaigretteonline.com.
As distressed as we were by the sudden closing of Café Giuseppe’s Nob Hill location, there is something of a silver lining to report. A new tenant is already in place, and fans of the great coffee and breezy European aesthetic that came to define Café Giuseppe could not have lucked into more capable hands. Maxime and Daniela Bouneau, the team behind the wonderful Torino’s @ Home have entered into a lease and anticipate a mid-June opening for a new café, called Limonata. Maxime and Daniela, from Nice, France and Torino, Italy respectively, will share the street with neighboring French-owned P’tit Lois Bistro, to create an unlikely European culinary district at the corner of Silver and Wellesley. Plans for the menu include hand-made gelato, fresh salads and cheeses, Italian tarts and a variety of Panini. As with Torino’s, everything will be made from scratch by the capable Maxime and his crew. Hours are Tues-Sat 7 am to 5 pm. www.torinosfoods.com. While you’re exploring Nob Hill, be sure to visit the Tamale Loco food cart, just across Silver from Limonata. Operated by Tim and Romy Keegan, who some may remember as the young couple that ran Morning Glory Food in the Harwood years ago, the cart is stuffed with delicious handmade tamales, including vegetarian and dessert varieties. Cart hours are 11 am – 3 pm Tues-Sat. At 7 pm Thursday through Saturday, son Thomas pulls the cart over to Tractor Brewing until the tamales run out. www.tamaleloco.weebly.com Change came to the Four Diamond, AAA, Andaluz Hotel in downtown Albuquerque this spring. Executive chef Donald Burns took the reins in March, and has overhauled the menu at Lucia and Ibiza to reflect the clean simplicity that have come to define his style. Staying true to Hotel Andaluz’ Mediterranean sensibility is important to Burns, as is a welcome commitment to locally sourced produce and proteins where possible. As a LEED Gold Certified property, Hotel Andaluz prides itself on the conservation of resources and energy, so it stands to reason that the menu should emphasize sustainability as well. www.hotelandaluz.com Don’t let college kids be the only ones blown away by the food Luis Valdovinos is cooking up in his small kitchen at 102 Richmond NE. The Last Call is in the space next door to Imbibe, and patrons there can order at the bar, but you don’t have to. Right now there are no signs, no chairs and no tables. It doesn’t matter. At 5:05 pm Tuesday to Saturday, the door to the kitchen opens and lines begin to form. Valdovinos is making what are easily the best Tijuana-style street tacos I’ve had in town, along with an inspired menu of modern bar food that includes a decadent grilled cheese with truffle oil, sliders and other tasty snacks. Valdovinos, who hails from a restaurant family in San Diego, has plans for some patio seating, a sign and a delivery window, but why wait for those creature comforts when you can call
Vinaigrette owner Erin Wade
edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
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ahead and take out? Open until 12:35 am Wednesday and Thursday, 2:35 am Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday. 505-369-6102
whose capable hands will provide much of the seasonal produce for the Café Fina menu, just as they did for Real Food Nation.
A phoenix is rising in Madrid this summer. Josh Gerwin, former chef/ owner of Corrales’ Casa Vieja has put the closure of the restaurant (due to an unsound structure) behind him, and now drives the Curbside Café, a state-of-the-art kitchen on wheels. Parked in front of the infamous Java Junction, Gerwin serves the summer crowds that flock to the small town along HWY 14 between Albuquerque and Santa Fe. Gerwin, who most recently consulted on the menu at Desert Fish, is also catering and making arrangements to be on hand during the busy summer and fall Santa Fe concert schedule. Count on the same seasonal menus and Gerwin’s emphasis on local ingredients that made Casa Vieja such a favorite destination.
O’Brien has been the manager of Santa Fe institution Mu Du Noodles for the last four years, and brings considerable restaurant savvy to the table. O’Brien’s wife Annamaria brings her front of the house experience; she spent many years at both Geronimo and Coyote Café. The menu is described as modern comfort food and will emphasize the fresh, seasonal produce coming from the garden. Initially hours will be daytime only with counter service, and there will be a limited menu for the drive-thru. www.cafefinasantafe.com 505-466-3886
Santa Fe just got a new sports bar. I’m pretty sure it’s the only one in town with a world-class chef at the helm. While the concept couldn’t be much more of a departure from Geronimo and the Coyote Café, I’ll take chef/owner Eric Di Stefano at his word when he says that Stats Sports Bar and Nightlife will become as popular a destination as his other two restaurants. Early returns, including a 600-person opening night in May and a packed house every weekend since, suggest he’s onto something. The restaurant features an eclectic collection of spaces on two levels, including a nightclub on the lower level, rooftop patio and video game areas for kids (big and small) along with the Stadium Room which features a giant projector. At last count, patrons will have 22 brand new televisions to choose from throughout the restaurant when they come to watch the game.
If you are one of the 800 or so Las Campanas members, your favorite restaurant is probably somewhere on Canyon Road or near the plaza. The country club is trying to change that. This April, Andy Nichols was brought in to take over as executive chef at the club and he has overhauled the dinner menu, and installed a decidedly everythingfrom-scratch philosophy that was not necessarily the norm before he got there. Nichols spent the better part of the last ten years at The Compound, where he started as a line cook in 2002 and ultimately became Mark Kiffin’s Chef de Cuisine. Fine-tuning an understanding of and appreciation for the intricacies of fine dining, Nichols honed a cooking style incorporating fresh, seasonal ingredients prepared in a simple, clean manner. If you have something that you think belongs in an upcoming installment of Table Hopping, please email Sergio: sergio@salvadorphoto.com
Di Stefano’s menu features four varieties of wings, including Green Chile Agave and Asian Wasabi Sesame. Also of note are Sara’s Frito Pie served with Chimayo Chile and ground Kobe beef, and the Hatch Green Chile Mac and Cheese. A Penn State grad who grew up in Hershey, Pennsylvania, Di Stefano knows what an authentic sports bar should feel like and it is safe to say that he really knows good food. Thanks to that combination, the sports fan and the gourmet can meet out on equal terms. 505-982-7265 Many Santa Feans were surprised to see the ambitious and well-regarded Real Food Nation shutter its doors in March after a brief, but decidedly bright run. The restaurant, converted from a landmark Fina gas-station in 2009, had become a favorite gathering place for the 20,000 or so living within a five mile radius in communities like Eldorado, Galisteo, and Lamy. In late June, after a hiatus of a few months, the gathering can begin anew—at Café Fina. Murphy O’Brien, a friend and an admirer of the restaurant, contacted the owners when he heard the news. “Blythe and Andrew did something wonderful there, and I feel like they were very, very close to making it work,” he says while reflecting on the ways the new venture will benefit from the efforts that went into Real Food Nation. To be sure, many of the pieces are in place including a great space in the heart of a community with relatively few dining options. Also transferring are the one-acre garden and on-site farmers Ellen Brand and Zeb Turner,
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Last Call owner Luis Valdevinos
edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
Canyon Road
destination neighborhoods
Canyon Road: Art Meets History By Sheli Armstrong • Illustration by Stephanie & Walt Cameron Santa Fe in summertime or anytime for that matter, is like no other destination, and Canyon Road is like no other road in the world. Known as El Camino del Cañon until 1951, it was a dirt road that remained unpaved until the early 1960s. This historic road is rich with culture, from the original adobe and territorial architecture, to more than 100 art galleries tucked away on just a half-mile stretch of road in the very heart of Santa Fe. The road does not end there, however, there is so much more to behold. I know. I lived on Canyon Road. A native of Santa Fe, I spent a lot of time on Upper Canyon Road, a section many people miss when wandering the galleries and shops down below. Here, a morning hike is a vigorous way to start the day.
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Bordering the Santa Fe National Forest is a 190-acre urban preserve run by the Nature Conservancy, which consists of the Dale Ball Trails, a 22-mile hiking and bike trail. Even further up Canyon Road is another 135-acre nature preserve, the Randall Davey Audubon Center and Sanctuary, which was the property and home of artist Randall Davey, a nationally known modernist painter. Davey, an important part of the Santa Fe Art colony, was a skilled painter, printmaker and sculptor, He purchased the land in 1920 and converted an old stone sawmill into his home and studio. The buildings are now preserved as a museum, which includes Davey’s original furnishings as well as many paintings by the artist.
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Situated on the southeast corner of Camino Cerrito and Upper Canyon Road sits one of the most fascinating structures in Santa Fe: Cristo Rey Church. Not to be missed, the adobe church was designed in the late 1930’s by renowned Santa Fe architect John Gaw Meem. By the 1930’s, the population around Canyon Rd. had grown, and the locals wished for their own church. Their unusual request was that it be built to feature a huge 20 x 40 foot hand carved stone retablo or alter screen, carved by Bernardo Miera Y Pacheco in 1760 from stone that was quarried just North of Santa Fe. This relic of Santa Fe’s Colonial Period was salvaged from the demolition of one of the Spanish’s first chapels, known as La Castrense, and was gathering dust in storage in the cathedral in Santa Fe. The parishioners contributed to the building effort, hand making more than 100,000 adobe bricks, and harvesting vigas and corbels from the neighboring forest. The church was completed in just over a year, and to date is the largest single construction of adobe in the United States.( i)
Discover
InArt Gallery Mon-Sat 10-5:30 | Sun 11-4 219 Delgado Street InArtSantaFe.com
Park for FREE on Canyon Road this Summer!
When you visit InArt Gallery and mention “Edible” you will receive your parking for free at the lot across the street.
After an early morning hike, head to the Stables compound for breakfast at the Teahouse. The Teahouse, a fantastic space with Asian influences, is an acclaimed restaurant, wine bar and beer garden offering more than 150 exotic teas from around the world. According to Teahouse owner Dionne Christian, the building dates back to 1839 and before that, the compound served as horse stables run by the Vigil family. During the '60s and '70s, the compound became artist studios, and it has been the home of the Teahouse since 2003. The iconic restaurant is not to be missed during your visit; a stop for breakfast might include steel cut oatmeal and black sticky rice with loads of cream and real maple syrup, and a cup of steaming Lotus Oolong. The Teahouse offers a full menu, which offers daily soup specials, unique sandwiches, fresh salads, regular and gluten-free baked goods and desserts, all delicious and made from scratch daily. Just next door (also located at the Stables compound) is AndersonWilliams Gallery/Studio. Here I met artist Robert Anderson, who was outdoors painting on a large easel. Anderson is not a newcomer to Canyon Road; he’s one of Santa Fe’s beloved artists. He prefers to paint outdoors and spends much of his day there, painting in different styles, creating thickly-textured, dimensional landscapes full of whimsy and magic. His paintings grab your attention, you’ll want to step into his world and spend a little more time. Anderson builds frames from reclaimed wood found in all sorts of interesting places, which become the perfect piece to finish his work. High above the wooden staircase is Beloved Jewelry. This section of the Stables was a former hayloft. The original barn doors are the entrance into the world of artist, printmaker, jeweler and photographer Catherine Trapani, who finds the loft space fitting for her work. Trapani left Seattle to live her dream in Santa Fe: passionate about finding interesting, one-of-a-kind objects, she creates unique pieces incorporating rare prayer beads, sapphires, turquoise, coral and antique French Madonnas. She particularly loves working one-on-one with clients to create signature pieces.
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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
On Canyon Road, the shopping never ends, and when you step into the carefully curated shop of Curiosa, you may never leave! Shop owner Shawna Tatom has an eye for delightful and interesting objects. Here, you’ll find beautiful jewelry, cards, unique treasures made by local artists – one is Tatom’s husband Michael Tatom, and miniature bronze sculptures made by Steve Worthington. Originally, Tatom’s boutique was a pottery shop, The Fickery, owned by artist Jorge Fick and his wife. Now filled with old-world charm, Tatom’s Curiosa is an eclectic and truly unexpected shopping experience.
The Compound Restaurant Though there are dozens of galleries and shops in the Canyon Road neighborhood, there are only a handful of restaurants, including Santa Fe landmark, The Compound, owned by chef Mark Kiffin. The building was originally the centerpiece of a group of houses known as the McComb Compound, long before artists and tourist discovered Santa Fe. In the earlier part of the 20th century, when Santa Fe was a long way from the rest of the world, movie stars, industrialists, and socialites visited, where they could rent a house in relative seclusion. Eventually, Will and Barbara Houghton acquired the main house and converted it into a restaurant. It was their decision to bring in designer Alexander Girard, who gave The Compound Restaurant its distinctive look and who is best remembered for his generous donation of more than 106,000 pieces to Santa Fe's International Folk Art Museum. Known for his design work with Herman Miller and Charles and Ray Eames, Girard’s work also includes the famed La Fonda del Sol Restaurant in New York. (ii) In 2000, Mark Kiffin reopened The Compound, and
since then, he has been one of the most celebrated chefs in Santa Fe, and America. A 2005 James Beard Award winner for ‘Best Chef in the Southwest’, Kiffin is known for his Mediterranean, local and regional influences to create delicious seasonal dishes. Just a few steps up the road sits the acclaimed Geronimo Restaurant. An early Spanish settler on Canyon Road was Geronimo Lopez, who purchased his farm there in 1753. By 1769, Lopez owned two houses on the property with an adjoining orchard of 14 trees, plus crop and pasture land. Expanded in the late nineteenth century with a row of new rooms facing the street, the Geronimo Lopez house is now the home of Geronimo Restaurant at 724 Canyon Road.(iii) Alfresco dining on the portal is a must. Equally enchanting is the interior dining space, including the remodeled midsection, which can be reserved for private parties. Geronimo is the quintessential fine dining experience, the seasonal and unique menu items change every few weeks, and the restaurant boasts a stellar wine list. Clearly, Canyon Road is unique, there’s definitely no place else like it. So much of the beauty and charm that is Santa Fe, the best open spaces for hiking, amazing art, people watching, dining and shopping can all be found here in this short half mile stretch. So often we take for granted what visitors find so charming and lovely about where we live; I encourage you to revisit Canyon Road, and take in all the eclectic beauty and ancient history this road has to offer. A native of New Mexico, Sheli Armstrong has over 20 years of experience in hospitality working in world-class resorts from the Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company to Los Poblanos Historic Inn. She’s the owner of SoireeQ, Special Event Artistry and writes regularly for several publications. Bibliography: i. Greg Alegretti, Cristo Rey Church, Santa Fe, New Mexico. www.gregallegretti.com/cristo-rey-church-santa-fe-new-mexico ii. The Compound, History. www.compoundrestaurant.com/CompoundHistory.html iii. New Mexico Office of the State Historian, Canyon Road – 1750. www.newmexicohistory.org/filedetails.php?fileID=413
Jewelry Decorative Accesories Unusual Treasures for Giving or Keeping
Mon.-Sat., 10:30-5:00 & Sun. 12:00-5:00
edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
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Canyon Road Destination Neighborhood Guide Anderson-Williams Fine Art Gallery/Studio Anderson-Williams Fine Art Gallery/Studio in the historic Stables Art Studios complex, 821 Canyon Rd. features the award winning paintings of Robert Anderson and Jeanette Williams. Commissions Welcome. Over 20 years combined experience on Canyon Rd. We are easy to work with and will guide you through the process of seeing your visions come alive in paint. Handcrafted, original picture frames available. Paintings that become heirlooms. 821 Canyon Road, Santa Fe, NM 87501 505-982-1535
Beloved Jewlery
Zuni Terraced Cornmeal Bowl, c.
Beloved Jewelry offers an exquisite collection of jewelry made from antique beads and rare gems from such exotic locales as Tibet, India, Italy and France. Reflecting owner Catherine Trapani’s passion for beauty, substance and style, BELOVED is a well-edited, intimate gallery of jewelry and fine prints. 821 Canyon Road, Upstairs, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Thursday-Sunday 12pm - 5pm and by appointment. www.belovedtheshop.com, info@belovedtheshop.com, 206-391-9150
Coulter ✽ Brooks ART & ANTIQUES
Coulter-Brooks Art & Antiques
Fine New Mexican and American Indian Art
Coulter-Brooks Art & Antiques hosts an inventory of Native American items including Navajo and Pueblo weaving, jewelry and objects. The inventory represents an equal emphasis on the furnishings and devotional art of Spanish New Mexico including tinwork, bultos, retablos and furniture from the Colonial through the WPA era. Regional painting and prints related to New Mexico and the interior West are also a consistent interest along with books and publications on the region’s art history, material culture and decorative arts. Lane Coulter and Jan Brooks have a long interest in the historic architecture of Spanish New Mexico and in supplying period furnishings, lighting and authentic accent pieces that represent the region’s diverse cultural expression. 924 Paseo de Peralta #4, Santa Fe,NM 87501 By appointment. www.coulterbrooks.com, 505-577-7051
Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe ● coulterbrooks.com
The Compound Chef/owner Mark Kiffin pairs seasonal contemporary American cuisine with great service in an historic adobe building designed by Alexander Girard. Extensive wine list, full bar, picturesque garden patios and elegant settings for private events. 653 Canyon Road, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Lunch Monday - Saturday 11:30am - 2pm. Dinner Nightly from 5:30pm. Bar opens at 5pm. www.compoundrestaurant.com, 505-982-4353
Curiosa Tucked inside this gem of a shop is a carefully curated collection of items that range from fantastical and decorative to rustic. With the natural world as muse, the shop is like a wondrous cabinet of curiosities holding delights that are both intriguing and functional. 718 Canyon Rd, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Monday-Saturday 10:30-5; Sunday 12pm - 5pm. curiosasantafe@yahoo.com, 505-988-2420
The Teahouse The Teahouse on Canyon Road in Santa Fe is an acclaimed restaurant, wine bar, beer garden, specialty tea store and wholesaler of more than 150 teas from around the globe. Owner Dionne Christian is committed to providing guests with a unique and relaxed dining experience amid more than 100 galleries. 821 Canyon Road, Santa Fe, NM 87505. 7 days a week, 8am - 7pm. www.teahousesantafe.com, 505-992-0972
Inart santa fe InArt is located in the original family home and won the prestigious “Heritage Award” in 2004 for Historical Remodel from the City of Santa Fe. In Art is owned and operated by a 14th generation native Santa Fean with friendly and knowledgeable staff. InArt offers visitors an elegant environment in which to discover many contemporary artistic media. 219 Delgado Street, Santa Fe , NM 87501 Monday-Saturday 10-5:30; Sunday 11am - 4pm. inartsantafe.com, 505-983-6537
And remember to tell InArt “Edible sent you” for FREE Parking across the street at the public parking lot.
Paintings by Robert Anderson
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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
farmers market listing ALBUQUERQUE MARKETS ABQ Uptown Growers’ Market NE parking lot of the ABQ Uptown shopping center, just past Trader Joe’s
Downtown Growers’ Market Robinson Park, 8th & Central
Saturdays, 7 am - 12 pm May 19th - November 3rd
Belen Growers’ Market Anna Becker Park, Hwy. 309/Reinken Ave.
Eagle Nest - Moreno Valley Farmers’ Market 540 W. Therma/Hwy 64
Fridays, 4:30 pm to 7 pm June 8th - October 26th
Fridays, 9 am - 2 pm June 15th - August 31st
Capitan Farmers’ Market 100 Lincoln Ave., at the corner of Smokey Bear Blvd. & Lincoln Ave.
Eldorado Farmers’ Market La Tienda parking lot, 7 Caliente Rd.
Saturdays 7 am – 12 pm Across the street from the main Presbyterian Hospital, 1200 block of Central Ave. NE Tuesdays 7 am - 12 pm
Albuquerque North East Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market West side of Albuquerque Academy, 6400 Wyoming Blvd.
Tuesdays, 3 pm - 7 pm May 22nd - October 30th
Armijo Village Growers’ Market SW Corner of Isleta Blvd. & Arenal Rd.
Saturdays, 8 am - 12 pm June 2nd - October 27th
Bernalillo Farmers’ Market Our Lady of Sorrows Church, 301 Camino del Pueblo
Fridays, 4 pm - 7 pm July 6th - October 26th
Edgewood Farmers’ Market Wildlife West Park, 87 N Frontage Rd.
Thursdays, 3 pm - 7 pm July 12th - October 11th
Saturdays, 9 am - 11 am July – October
Los Ranchos Growers’ Market City Hall, 6718 Rio Grande Blvd. NW
Saturdays, 7 am - 12 pm (8 am 12 pm in Sept - Nov) May 5th - November 10th
Nob Hill Growers’ Market Morningside Park, Lead & Morningside SE
Tuesdays, 7 am - 12 pm Sundays, 10 am - 4 pm June 17th - November 15th
Mondays, 10 am - 5 pm June 11th - October 29th
Chaparral Farmers’ Market 101 County Line, corner of County & State Lines
Fridays, 2 pm - 7 pm July 20th - September 21st
Saturdays, 8 am - 12 pm June 16th - November 3rd
Saturdays, 8 am – sellout & Tuesdays, 5 pm - sellout June 23rd - October 30th
Tuesdays, 4:30 pm - 6 pm starts July 10th
Saturdays, 9 am - 12 pm July 7th - October 27th
Alamogordo Alameda Park Farmers’ Market 1987 White Sands Blvd, next to the Toy Train Depot
Deming - Copper Street Farmers’ Market 216 S Copper St.
Wednesdays, 5 pm - sellout Saturdays, 9 am - sellout June 2nd – October 31st
Sundays, 9 am - 12 pm & Wednesdays, 3 pm - 6 pm
Saturdays, 8:30 am - 11 am Year round
Farmington Growers’ Market The Farmington Museum at Gateway Park, 3041 E Main St.
Clovis Farmers’ Market Corner of 4th & Pile
Cuba Farmers’ Market St. Francis of Assisi Park, NM 126
Alamogordo Otero County Farmers’ Market Frontier Village, Otero County Fairgrounds
Saturdays & Wednesdays, 9:30 am - 12:30 pm June – first frost
Fort Sumner Farmers’ Market 25851 Hwy. 60
Saturdays & Wednesdays, 8 am - sellout June 16th - October 31st Gallup Farmers’ Market Downtown Walkway, between Coal & Aztec
Saturdays, 9 am - 12:30 pm mid-July - mid-October
Dixon Co-op Farmers’ Market 215 Hwy. 75
Glencoe Farmers’ Market 27489 Hwy. 70
Wednesdays, 4 pm - 7 pm June 13th - October 10th
Wednesdays, 9 am - 11 am mid-July – mid-October Jemez Pueblo Farmers’ Market Red Rocks, at the north end of the pueblo
Aztec Farmers’ Market Westside Plaza, 1409 W Aztec Blvd.
Sundays, 10 am - 2 pm August 19th – Oct. 28th
Wednesdays, 4:30 pm - 7 pm or sellout July 18th - late October
edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
Saturdays, 8 am - 11 am June 23rd - TBD
Saturdays, 8 am - 12 pm June 23rd - October 27th
Corrales Growers’ Market Recreation Center, 500 Jones Rd. & Corrales Rd.
Sundays, April 29th - November 4th Wednesdays starting July 18th
Española Farmers’ Market 1005 N Railroad Ave.
Thursdays, 3 pm - 6:30 pm May 17th - November 1st
ELSEWHERE IN THE STATE: Caravan Nouveau Growers’ & Artisan’s Market @ Wilson Park Wilson Park, San Pedro Dr. SE & Anderson Ave. SE
Carlsbad Downtown Farmers Market Eddy County Courthouse Lawn, Mermod & Canal
Saturdays, 7:30 am - 11:30 am July 7th - November 30th
South Valley Growers’ Market Location - Cristo Del Valle Presbyterian Church, 3907 Isleta Blvd. SW
Fridays, 4 pm - 7 pm June 1st - November 2nd
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Jemez Springs Community Farmers’ Market Father Fitzgerald Park, 30 Jemez Springs Plaza
Saturdays, 9 am - 11:30 am or sellout July 14th - October 27th
Mora Valley Farmers’ Market Mora Valley Ranch Supply Store, 377 Hwy. 518
Fridays, 3 pm - 6 pm June 29th - September 28th
Las Cruces - Mountain View Sunday Growers’ Market North side of Idaho Crossings parking lot at 1300 El Paseo
Mountainair Farmers’ & Gardeners’ Market Roosevelt St., next to the post office
Sundays, 10 am - 2 pm April 29th - November 11th
Saturdays, 9 am - sellout May 12th - September 15th
Las Cruces Farmers’ & Crafts Market Downtown Mall, Las Cruces
Ojo Caliente Farmers’ & Ranchers’ Market St. Mary’s Church parking lot, Los Baños Rd.
Saturdays & Wednesdays, 8 am - 12:30 pm Year round
Saturdays, 9 am - 12 pm Early July - October 27th
Las Vegas - Tri-County Farmers’ Market 6th St. and University
Saturdays & Wednesdays, 7 am - sellout May 12th - October 27th
Locally and regionally grown, organic produce, groceries and meats delivered to your door. Order online for delivery or pick up. SIGN UP NOW FOR YOUR WEEKLY CUSTOMIZED HARVEST BOX. WWW.SKARSGARDFARMS.COM ∙ (505) 681-4060
Formerly Los Poblanos Organics
Pecos Farmers’ Market Canelas Restuarant, 29 Glorieta Hwy.
Distributing our products via home/office delivery. Pick-up options in Los Alamos, Santa Fe, Placitas, Rio Rancho, Albuquerque, Las Cruces, and El Paso.
Sundays, 10 am - 1 pm April 29th - September 23rd
Los Alamos Farmers’ Market Mesa Public Library parking lot, Central and Bathtub
Pojoaque Pueblo Farmers’ Market Poeh Pueblo Cultural Center, 78 Cities of Gold off Hwy. 84/285
Thursdays, 7 am - 1 pm May 3rd - October 25th
Wednesdays, 12 pm - 6 pm May 23rd - October 14th Sundays, 11 am - 4 pm Starting June 17th
Los Lunas Farmers’ Market River Park
O
Portales Farmers’ Market Corner of W 1st & Ave. B
Mondays & Thursdays, 5 pm - sellout June 25th - October 29th
Mimbres Valley Farmers’ Market Corner of Hwy. 35 and San Francisco St.
Ramah Farmers’ Market Ramah Museum, 12 Bloomfield Rd.
Thursdays, 3:30 pm - 5:30 pm June 21st - October
Saturdays, 10 am to 1 pm June 9th - mid-October
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Tuesdays, 4pm - 7 pm Saturdays, 8 am - 12 pm June 12th - October 30th
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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
Raton First Street Market 100 block of historic First Street
Saturdays, 1 pm - sellout June 23rd - September 29th
San Felipe Farmers’ Market
Santa Fe Southside Farmers’ Market San Isidro Plaza parking lot at Cerrillos & Zafarano
I-25 exit 252 on the west side of Casino Hollywood Wednesdays, 4 pm - 7 pm July 11th - October 31st Opening day - July 5th
Tuesdays, 3:30 pm - 6:30 pm June 26th - September 25th
San Ysidro Growers’ & Artisans’ Marketplace San Ysidro Park, off Hwy. 4
Shiprock Farmers’ Market Old BIA parking lot, behind the Wells Fargo Bank
Fridays, 3pm - 7 pm Saturdays, 9 am - 1 pm June 1st - November 2nd
Saturdays, 9:30 am – sellout Wednesdays, 4 pm - sellout August 4th - mid-October
Tijeras Farmers Market 488 E. Highway 333 (Route 66) (from Central Ave east 7 miles)
Wednesdays 3-6 pm May-October Truth or Consequences: Sierra County Farmers’ Market
Ribera - El Valle Farmers’ Market Across from La Risa Cafe
Sundays, 11 am - sellout June 3rd - October
Rio Rancho - rocky moutntain Growers’ Market 10th Street at Cherry Rd -follow sign to market.
Friday 4pm - 7pm July 13th - October 26th
Roswell Farmers’ Market Chavez County Courthouse lawn
Saturdays, 7 am - 11 am June 30th - October 6th
Santa Fe - Farmers’ Market at Arroyo Vino 218 Camino La Tierra, 1.9 miles west of Hwy. 599
Silver City Farmers’ Market 707 Bullard St.
Thursdays, 2 pm - 6 pm May 31st - October 4th
Saturdays, 8:30 am - 12 pm May 12th - October 27th
Santa Fe Farmers’ Market Farmers’ Market Pavilion, 1607 Paseo de Peralta at Guadalupe
Saturdays, 8 am - 12 pm year round Tuesdays, 8 am - 12 pm May 1st – November 20th
Ralph Edwards Park, on Riverside between Birch & Cedar Saturdays, 8:30 am - 11:30 am May 26th - October 27th
Tucumcari Farmers’ Market Wailes Park, Tucumcari Blvd. & Date St.
Saturdays, 10 am - sellout Tuesdays, 5:30 pm - sellout July 7th - October 20th
Socorro Farmers’ Market Socorro Plaza Park
Tularosa Farmers’ Market Central Ave. & N Bookout St.
Saturdays, 8 - 11 am & Tuesdays, 5 - 7 pm June 5th - October 27th
Saturdays, 7:30am - 10:30 am June 9th - October 13th
Satellite markets are on Thursdays from 1 pm – 3 pm in the Alamo Navajo Reservation and from 4 pm – 6 pm in Magdalena from mid-July through October.
Sunland Park - Ardovino’s Desert Crossing Farmers’ Market
Ardovino’s Desert Crossing, Ardovino Dr. Saturdays, 7:30 am - 12 pm May 26th - mid-October
Taos Farmers’ Market Town hall lot on Camino de Placitas
White Oaks: Rascal Fair White Oaks Community Market Hwy. 349, downtown White Oaks
Fridays, 5 pm - sundown May 25th - October 26th
KEY
Indicates what forms of payment are excepted at the farmers’ markets (EBT, DEBIT, WIC, and Senior Checks). Those with no icons are cash only.
Saturdays, 8 am - 1 pm May 12th - October 27th
Taos Pueblo - Red Willow Farmers’ Market Veteran’s Highway
Wednesdays, 10 am - 5 pm Year round (indoors in winter)
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HISTORIC INN & ORGANIC FARM
8917 4th St NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114
4803 Rio Grande Blvd NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque www.lospoblanos.com 505-344-9297
505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com
Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm
it’s always fresh, always local, always close.
Local ingredients, served locally. The freshest, seasonal organic produce, meats and fish served up with flair & attentive service right in your neighborhood. Join locals supporting locals. Deliciously.
. .truly local.
505.766.5100 www.seasonsabq.com
505.254.ZINC(9462) www.zincabq.com
505.294.WINE(9463) www.savoyabq.com
505.850.2459 www.tasteabq.com
OLD TOWN ALBUQUERQUE
HISTORIC NOB HILL
ALBUQUERQUE HEIGHTS
ALBUQUERQUE, SANTA FE
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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
what’s fresh, what’s local All this and more, can be found at our New Mexico Farmers’ and Growers’ markets this summer. Don’t forget to bring your market bag! Arugula Asparagus Beans (purple, wax, green, string, snap, snow) Beets Bok Choy Broccoli Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Chiles Corn Cucumber Dandelion Eggplant FLOWERS Japanese Mustard Garlic Green Chile Greens Herbs Galore Kale Kohlrabi LAVENDER Lettuces Mushrooms Mustard Greens Nopales Onions Peppers (A Rainbow!) Potatoes Pumpkins
edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
Quelitas Radishes Red Chile Salad Greens Shishito Peppers Spinach Sprouts and Microgreens Sugar Snap Peas Summer Squash Sweet Potatoes Swiss Chard Tomatoes Tomatillos Turnips Zucchini Apples Apricots Blackberries Cherries Chokecherries Currants Elderberries Grapes Jujubes Melons Nectarines Peaches Pears Plums Prickly Pears Raspberries
Rhubarb Strawberries Watermelons Goat Cheeses and Milk, Beef, Bison, Lamb, Pork, Yak, Chicken, Ducks Chicken, Duck, Goose and Turkey Eggs Jams and Jellies Pecans, Pinon, Pistachios Chicos, Dried Beans, Cornmeal Chile Powders, Dried Chiles, Ristras Teas Baked Goods Artisan Breads Honey and Jams Chutneys, Mustards and Salsas Houseplants Bedding Plants Lavender Plants Pastries Tamales Body Care Products Dried Herbs Soaps Smudge Sticks Willow Baskets and Furniture
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what’s fresh, what’s local: lavender It turns out that New Mexico is a wonderful place for cultivating lavender. Lavender has a long history in NM, brought by early Spanish settlers. Growing wild in the mountainous regions of the Mediterranean, the lavender herb needs lots of sunlight to thrive, and grows best in sunny, stony surroundings. With NM averaging 320 sunny days a year, many of our growers have more than one harvest a year – and for all that we grow, it’s not often featured in food here. For most cooking applications the fresh or dried buds are used, also referred to as flowers. Recipes using lavender are generally on the sweet side but lavender can replace rosemary and other strong tasting herbs, or, it can be blended with other herbs, for example, sage, oregano, thyme and mint. In terms of the varieties of lavender and taste – let your nose be your guide first. English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolias) has the sweetest fragrance of all the lavenders and is the one most commonly used in cooking. English lavender is the least camphory, while Spanish lavender is very strong and French lavender is very piney in taste.
Harvest flowers as you would fruit, selecting those that look most perfectly ready, with the fullest color, and passing over any that seem wilted or less ripe. The fresher the flower, the more flavorful its taste, so pick your flowers as close as possible to food prep time. Cutting lavender flowers is best done in the morning when the dew has evaporated and before the heat of the day. As with anything from the garden, rinse thoroughly before use: immerse the flowers in water to remove any insects or soil. Then lie gently on paper or cloth towels and allow to air dry, or gently spin in a salad spinner. If using dried lavender in a recipe, use 1/3 the quantity of dried lavender flowers to fresh. Adding too much lavender to your recipe can overwhelm and can taste bitter. Because of the strong flavor of lavender, the secret is that a little goes a long way. NOTE: Do not eat flowers from florists, nurseries, or garden centers. In many cases these flowers have been treated with pesticides not labeled for food crops.
lavender (Lavandula)
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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
what’s fresh, what’s local: lavender What could be better on a hot day but a tall, cool glass of fresh lemonade? Lavender ice cream!! Lavender Lemonade
Lavender Ice Cream
Makes 6-8 tall glasses with ice
Makes 1 quart
1 3/4 C. white sugar 3 T. dried lavender 8 C. water 1 1/2 C. lemon juice (6-8 lemons, juiced, seeds removed) Lavender sprigs, lemon verbena for garnish In a small saucepan, combine sugar, lavender, and 1 cup water. Bring to boil and stir to dissolve sugar. Allow to cool to room temperature, strain through a fine mesh sieve to remove the lavender, then cover and refrigerate the syrup until cool. Remove seeds from lemon juice, but leave pulp. In pitcher, stir together chilled lavender syrup, lemon juice and remaining 7 C. water. Add lots of ice, and serve deliciously cold with sliced lemons, a sprig of lavender, and a few verbena leaves.
3 C. half-and-half 1 C. heavy cream 1/2 C. fresh lemon verbena leaves packed (if you can’t find fresh lemon verbena, use the zest of 2 lemons) 1/4 C. fresh lavender flowers, or 2 T. dried lavender 8 egg yolks 3/4 C. sugar Pinch of salt Pour the cream and half-and-half into a heavy saucepan, place over medium-low heat, and heat until barely simmering, stirring frequently. Turn the heat off, and add the lemon verbena leaves and lavender, cover and let steep for half an hour. (If you are using lemon zest instead of verbena, do not add it now.) After the lavender and verbena have steeped, strain the liquid and discard the leaves. Return the cream mixture to the saucepan and reheat gently, do not boil. Whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, lemon zest, and salt in a large bowl until thoroughly combined. Slowly pour about 1/2 cup of hot cream mixture into the egg yolk mixture, whisking constantly so as not to cook the eggs. Repeat three times more, whisking thoroughly before adding each additional 1/2 cup of hot cream to the egg yolk mixture. Pour the tempered egg yolk mixture back into the saucepan with the remaining hot cream, and whisk constantly over yolks into the hot cream, and stir constantly on medium-low heat until the mixture thickens, and will coat the back of a spoon, 5 to 8 minutes. Do not let mixture boil. Pour the hot ice cream into a bowl and allow to cool for about 20 minutes; then refrigerate and chill for at least two hours, or overnight. When completely chilled, pour into an ice cream maker, and freeze according to the manufacturer’s directions. Remove the ice cream, pack into a covered container, and freeze for 2 hours or overnight before serving.
Photos by Stephanie Cameron
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edible Santa Fe 路 Summer 2012
the art of summer
A Very Grown Up Popsicle Story and Photo by Michelle Gourley
It was a screaming hot day in August. The kind when you see a wavy mirage of water constantly disappearing on the road ahead of you. I was on my home turf in Nova Scotia, plastered together with my husband and his two kids in a sand-filled rental car. We were dazed and parched and high on sunscreen fumes. Lukewarm lemonade sloshed untouched in cans at our feet—we needed more, something chilly and sweet to distract us from our prickly, sunburned skin. I began reminiscing about root beer popsicles. I was never one to guzzle pop, but I loved the taste of root beer, and then to find it condensed and frozen was somehow infinitely better than drinking it. The texture of densely packed crystals, almost the opposite of ice cream, was my favourite post-beach treat as a kid, and I would have clawed my way through any corner store freezer to get one. The fluorescent orange variety and fudgesicles inevitably outnumbered root beer by ten to one, making them a hard-won victory. But it seemed that my childhood raison d’être had gone the way of the pterodactyl, and I hadn’t seen a root beer popsicle since moving to Vancouver twenty years ago. The kids, at the tender ages of eight and ten, had never even tried one. Their eyes widened at the mythical popsicle stories. “Only fifty cents?” “You were allowed to have how many?” “Better than a fudgesicle?!” “And then you never saw them again?” Maybe they don’t make them anymore, I surmised. By the time we pulled onto the gravel in front of a battered roadside store, they wanted to find one. They had to find one. We had barely parked and they were a blur of flip-flops, the screen door flapping and banging behind them. I could hear distant squealing from inside the store. “Root beer popsicles, root beer popsicles,” they chanted with the same frenzied zeal normally reserved for unicorns and mermaid sightings. I was stunned. My root beer popsicles? After all this time? It seemed strangely small in my adult hands. The white wrapper had a
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fading brown logo, and the packaging was much too loose around the popsicle. Judging from the dusty cans of evaporated milk and baked beans that lined the store shelves, those popsicles may have been there, lounging in frosty eternity, since my carefree childhood days. I ripped away the flimsy packaging and held tight to the double stick, bracing myself for disappointment. My first bite was an icy, sweet chunk of root beer perfection: exactly as I remembered it. It was no surprise to learn that the coveted treat of my youth was invented by a child. In 1905, a forgetful boy named Frank Epperson left his fruit soda and stir stick outside. The temperature dropped dramatically overnight, so when young Frank went scampering back to the porch, he was thrilled to discover that his forgotten drink had been transformed into a frozen treat. The boy grew up and had a family of his own. In 1923, still experimenting with his “Epsicle” invention, Epperson applied for a patent for his “frozen ice on a stick.” His kids renamed it Popsicle, the name stuck, and the idea was embraced by generations of hot and dusty children. Last summer I did some experimenting of my own. Having slightly hippy tendencies, I often try to “improve” recipes by cutting down on this or eliminating that, and I foolishly thought I could make my own root beer popsicles. They would be better: all-natural, and a solid hit with the kids. I started gathering the daunting list of ingredients that comprise authentic root beer, tracking them down like a police dog at the airport. I was on the case, making long-distance phone calls to unknown locales. I inspected countless jars of strange twigs and bark in Chinatown. I looked fearlessly into the dusty corners of every spice rack in town. Sassafras, tansy, wintergreen leaf, sarsaparilla root, star anise, fennel seeds, licorice root, vanilla—I had them all. Satisfied that Project Root Beer had taken shape, I put my biggest pot on the stove and cranked the heat. A small fortune worth of curious herbs and roots cluttered the counter. A jar of honey stood in place of sugar. (“Why use white sugar when you can use honey, man?” my hippy angel whispered.) The water came to a roaring boil, and I dumped in every last leaf and twig. Feeling smug that my popsicle success was just a matter of time, I waited for the darkening mixture to reduce by half. Still too watery?
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How about a grown-up popsicle?
Did it need sugar after all? I stirred in my best brown, the peace and love porridge-topper. Better. I let the concoction cool, telling myself that the flavours would really bloom. The strained mixture was the colour of weak coffee as I filled the popsicle moulds. The nose-wrinkling smell of Old Spice aftershave permeated the kitchen. Into the freezer they went. The next day I slid them out of their frosty cases and presented them to the kids. “What are these?” Their eyes narrowed at the suspiciously light and icy appearance. “Root beer popsicles. Homemade root beer popsicles,” I told them. Skeptical, they nibbled cautiously. No reaction. They were trying to tell me without telling me … they hated them. “Guess I’ll keep trying, huh?” I gently snatched them away before they could be critiqued. “Sorry, they’re just nothing like the real ones we had in Nova Scotia.”
The Rosy Ginsicle 1 C. whole milk 1 C. heavy cream (just do it!) 1/2 C. granulated sugar 1⁄3 C. unsprayed dried roses, or a handful of fresh rose petals (no spray!) 1⁄8 t. salt 2 T. gin (we love Hendrick’s) 3 T. rose water 2 T. unsprayed dried or fresh rose petals, cut into small pieces Combine the milk, cream and sugar in a medium saucepan with 1⁄3 cup dried or fresh rose petals. Bring to a simmer and remove from heat, stirring a few times until cool. Add salt, gin, rose water, and stir. Strain the mixture and sprinkle with the 2 T. dried or fresh petals (smaller pieces are better for color). Fill popsicle molds and freeze. Serve in martini glasses to adults who play nicely.
In the kitchen, alone, I tried one. They were crap. Watery, slightly musty, and the texture was off. Way off. Back to my popsicle lab I went. This time, I marched into a u-brew shop and bought a small, inky bottle of root beer concentrate. Back at home, I whisked together one tablespoon of the thick brown liquid, one cup of my finest white death sugar and three cups of water. Filling the moulds with the intensely flavoured mixture, I knew success was sadly imminent. And the kids loved them. They demanded more, sharing them with their friends and devouring every last sugary, un-natural one of them. Michelle Gourley will be starting a root beer popsicle support group.
Lavender Lemonade Popsicle The biggest problem with homemade juice popsicles is that they turn out too icy (ahem). A higher sugar-to-water ratio will help reduce the iciness, as will a wee bit of corn syrup. 3/4–1 C. granulated sugar 1 C. water 1 T. light corn syrup Grated zest of two lemons 6–8 lavender flower stems 1 C. fresh lemon juice Heat water and sugar in a small saucepan until the sugar has completely dissolved. Add the corn syrup, zest, and lavender. Bring to a simmer, then remove from heat and let cool. Stir in the fresh lemon juice and strain the mixture. Pour into popsicle molds and freeze at least 4 hours.
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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
cocktail culture
Art or Craft? By Chris Milligan • Photos by Stephanie Cameron There is a fine, almost undefined line between art and craft. Even more diluted can be the difference between artist and craftsman. Try to define each without using the other word and you will find that the line is almost nonexistent. It is hard to think of Leonardo DaVinci’s painting as the work of a craftsmen (imagine on the back of the Mona Lisa being a marker stating “1 of 54”). We think frequently of an artist as one who creates something extraordinary, and the craftsmen as a skilled laborer who can create the same thing over and over again. Yet we call the chef an artist with food, and in all actuality it is not the chef who puts your plate out: rather it’s a line cook sweating over a 150 degree sauté station, cranking out the chef ’s creation. In the bar world, the term art-bartender doesn’t exist. However the term craft bartender does, and is used to define a bartender whose drinks are aesthetically above the ordinary. Extraordinary. Refer back to the definition of an artist - see where this gets confusing? But there is an art in the world of mixology. Creating a drink that is appealing to all senses, and that transcends the mere desire to quench the thirst, is not an easy task. It must be appealing to the eye, match the atmosphere in which it is served, be balanced in flavor, arouse each of the senses, be effervescent and - unique.
Acai Cooler 10 mint leaves ½ oz. fresh lime juice ¾ oz. Runny Honey (2:1 honey and water) 1 ½ oz. Veer Acai Spirit 2 oz. Club Soda ¼ oz. Violet Liqueur Muddle mint honey and lime in a Collins glass. Add Veer Acai Spirit and club soda. Gently stir pulling mint from the bottom of the glass. Lightly pour violet liqueur over the top which will cascade down and through the glass. Garnish with lime wheel.
Acai Cooler
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Class V+
The unique thing about the art, or craft of mixology is that the cocktail, like cuisine, should excite all the senses. It should excite visually with its color and garnish, be pleasantly scented, and stimulate the palate with sweet, sour, bitter, salt and umami. The first sip should arouse as the first kiss of two young lovers.
2 oz. Aged Rum ½ oz. lemon Juice ½ oz. ginger infused cane syrup* 1 egg white 10 dashes Bitter End Thai Bitters Combine all ingredients except bitters in a cocktail shaker and shake for 15 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Place ten random drops of orange bitters in top and decoratively swirl the drops. *Ginger Syrup: place 8 oz. sugar, 8 oz. of water and 1 oz. grated ginger in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a soft boil, and then remove the pan from heat and let stand over night. Strain ginger, and refrigerate. Shelf life 5 days.
The cocktail is not merely a thirst quencher or a means of intoxication - not that either is a bad thing. It is liquid poetry. It sings to the soul. It enlightens every sense with its color, its smell, and its taste…even its sound. For the patron, anticipation awakens as the bartender performs the dance of cutting, squeezing, pouring, shaking, stirring, straining, garnishing and finally - placing the cocktail on the napkin. The sipper sips. Smiles. Pleased. AWAKE.
Mango Tango 2 oz. fresh cut mango ½ oz. lemon juice ½ oz. cane syrup (1:1 cane sugar and water) 1 oz. orange juice 1 ½ oz. reposado tequila 1 oz. Campari Muddle mango, lemon and syrup. Add all other ingredients and shake with ice. Strain into an ice filled Collins glass and garnish with orange juice, mango and cherry.
Chris Milligan The craft bartender must take his new creation, and be able to teach his fellow bartenders how to make this drink the same way, with the same inspiration, utilizing not just the ingredients, but the tools and techniques of classic and contemporary mixology so that the drink is consistent for every guest. It involves a host of skills that supersede art. Is the craftsman, who repeats his creation over and over again, elevated above the artist who only creates a piece once and is done?
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Photo by Erin Seavey
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Mango Tango Chris Milligan, aka The Santa Fe Barman can be found practicing the art and craft of mixology at the Secreto Lounge at the historic Hotel St Francis in Santa Fe.
edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
edible Santa Fe 路 Summer 2012
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Chile Rajas and Strawberry Tart
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cooking fresh
Some Enchanted Evening:
3 NM Chefs, all James Beard Nominees prepare an al fresco feast… By Andrea Feucht • Photos by Stephanie Cameron
The outside temperatures are creeping up, just in time to start eyeballing your favorite light summer outfits and contemplating the guest list for a flame-tinged cookout. This refreshing menu will have everyone mingling, chatting, and ready for the next evening event with little cause for post-consumption sluggishness. Cool salads, herb-heavy sauces, and fresh fruit everywhere are cause for flip flops and a festive cocktail or two while the sun sets. The kicker to this menu is that each chef-contributor shares an attribute: they’ve all been noticed by the James Beard Foundation this year. Each spring around the time of the Academy Awards, a foodie kind of star-studded list appears: the James Beard Foundation Award Semifinalists. In addition to wine selection, service, and business categories, each region of the country taps at least a dozen chefs as the best in their field. While New Mexican chefs have yet to win a coveted top award, each year the Land of Enchantment serves up some talented names. In 2012 it was Jennifer James of Jennifer James 101 (her third appear-
ance), Martin Rios of Restaurant Martin (also his third showing), and newly-noticed Frederick Muller of El Meze in Taos. All three have dishes included in this soiree, as well as 2008-2010 semifinalist James Campbell Caruso of La Boca – who happens to have a new book out this summer titled Espana: Exploring the Flavors of Spain. The talent in this spread is formidable, yet the recipes are straightforward, requiring only your enthusiasm, some minimal prep, and stellar ingredients. Grilled flavors dominate this spread, from a tangle of mild chiles and sweet bell peppers to a grilled bread salad made tart from fresh tomatoes. Follow with a meaty Dungeness crab delight with a potent avocado sauce. Mingle and enjoy the evening as the warm foods begin to appear: grilled potatoes with silky bright chimichurri, pink lamb chops served with juicy, sweet grilled peaches. More fruit follows the grand finale is a gorgeous red strawberry tart - if this doesn't start the summer out right, I don't know what will!
Menu for an Enchanted Summer Evening Chile Rajas – Chef Frederick Muller Panzanella – Chef Jennifer James Dungeness Crab Meat Salad with Creamy Avocado, Cucumbers, Tomatoes and Papayas – Chef Martin Rios Chimichurri (with grilled new potatoes) – Chef Jennifer James Chuletas de Cordero con Melocotones – Chef James Cambell Caruso Fresh Strawberry Tart – Chef Frederick Muller
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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
cooking fresh Planning tips: read all recipes first to make sure your time is well-allotted. The tart is a perfect “night before” task, requiring only last minute assembly just before serving. Other dishes can and should be made a few hours ahead of the event, leaving mostly grilling and plating when party time approaches. Each recipe serves approximately 8 as part of a family-style gathering.
Chile Rajas 3 Poblano chiles; roasted (see below), cut into ½ inch strips One 16-ounce jar of sweet roasted red peppers; cut into ½ inch strips 4 ounces Spanish Chevre or mild goat cheese 2 T. extra virgin olive oil ½ t. sea salt 1 T. oregano leaves Pita bread or French baguette cut into ½ inch thick slices Olive oil To roast the chiles: use a pair of tongs to hold chile over an open flame, char and blistering evenly until nearly black. Place in a covered bowl or plastic bag and let steam until cooled. Under cold running water, rub off skin. Make a slit down the side of the chile and under running water remove seeds and stem. Place on a paper towel to absorb moisture until ready to use. Preheat grill. Brush bread on both sides with olive oil and grill to light color and warm through. You want the bread to still be soft, not hard and brittle. To serve: arrange both chile and red pepper strips on plate so they are intertwined. If your creative juices are flowing, make a wreath-like design leaving the center open. Place the goat cheese in the center of the arrangement. Drizzle olive oil over cheese, chiles and peppers. Sprinkle with sea salt and oregano leaves. Serve with grilled bread. Adapted from Chef Frederick Muller of El Meze in Taos
Chile Rajas
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Panzanella (Bread Salad) This height-of-summer salad originated as a way to use leftover stale bread and is best with fantastic local tomatoes. The simplicity depends on quality ingredients – choose the best. 1 loaf rustic farm bread (Jennifer prefers Sage Bakehouse of Santa Fe) 1 clove garlic, smashed Olive oil 2 T. red wine vinegar 6 tomatoes 1 small sweet onion, sliced thinly then soaked in cold water for 5 minutes, drained 1 anchovy, minced (optional) Preheat grill. Thickly slice the bread (your choice to leave the crust on or off). Brush slices lightly with olive oil and grill to golden brown with a few crisp edges. Allow to cool. Peel the tomatoes by blanching in boiling water for 30 seconds, if desired (optional). Cut tomatoes in half and squeeze out the seeds, then cut into bite size pieces, reserving juice. Combine garlic, vinegar and drained onions in a large bowl. Stir together with a drizzle of olive oil. Cut the bread into bite size pieces (same size as tomatoes); add to the bowl, drizzle again with olive oil. Add tomatoes and juice, stirring to combine while seasoning with salt and pepper. Allow flavors to meld at room temperature before serving – the bread will absorb the juices while retaining a little crunch from the grill. Variations abound: add greens like arugula, fresh basil or flat-leaf parsley; add capers, cucumbers or sweet peppers; Jennifer’s favorite is to add a minced anchovy for savory punch. Adapted from Chef Jennifer James of Jennifer James 101 in Albuquerque
Panzanella
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cooking fresh Dungeness Crab Salad with Creamy Avocado, Cucumbers, Tomatoes & Papayas
Chimichurri 2 bunches flat leaf (Italian) parsley 2 cloves garlic, smashed 2 T. water 2 pinches red pepper flakes ½ C. olive oil (or more) Juice of 1 lemon Salt 2 lbs. new potatoes, thickly sliced into rounds
1 T. shallots (minced) Olive oil 6 ounces Dungeness crab meat, cleaned 2 T. Mayonnaise 1 t. Dijon mustard Juice of ½ lime Pinch of fresh thyme, minced Pinch of fresh Thai basil, minced Pinch of fresh cilantro, minced 2 Roma tomatoes, blanched, peeled and finely diced 1/3 English cucumber, cut into ½-inch dice ½ C. Papaya cut into ½-inch dice 2 T. grapeseed oil
Tear the leaves from each bunch of parsley. The most efficient way to do this is take the bottom of the bundle in one fist and grasp the stems with the other fist right where everything gets leafy. Twist hard and you’ll have a fistful of mostly leaves with some stems. That’s perfect. Put it all into the blender (or a powerful food processor).
In small saucepan or skillet over medium heat, soften shallots with olive oil just until they begin to color. In a medium sized bowl combine the crab, mayonnaise, mustard, lime juice, herbs and shallots. Mix well and keep cold. In another bowl combine the tomato, cucumber and papaya with the oil and season with salt and pepper. Set aside; prepare avocado sauce: 2 avocados Juice of ½ lime 3 T. Olive oil Puree the avocado in a food processor with juice and oil until smooth. Season with salt and pepper, chill. Place the salad in a bowl and garnish with seasonal greens. Drizzle the creamy avocado puree around the crab meat salad. Adapted from Chef Martin Rios of Restaurant Martin, Santa Fe
Add the water and blend to break down parsley, but don’t puree yet. Next, add garlic and pepper, blend a bit more. With the machine running slowly drizzle in olive oil; start with half a cup, adding more as desired (less if you like it chunky; more if you like it smooth and almost runny). Once it’s to your desired consistency, season with salt and lemon juice. Allow to rest and let the flavors marry for an hour or so. Prior to serving, grill the new potatoes with a hint of olive oil until soft and charred. Serve chimichurri as a condiment with the potatoes. Variations: use part cilantro or basil or other herb of your choice; pump up the chile flakes or use fresh chiles like Serrano, Thai or jalapeño; add more garlic if you plan to repel vampires. Finally, Jennifer says you can really twist it into the Asian realm by focusing on cilantro and Thai chiles and adding ginger in place of garlic. Adapted from Chef Jennifer James of Jennifer James 101 in Albuquerque
Chimichurri & Chuletas de Cordero con Melocotones
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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
cooking fresh Chuletas de Cordero con Melocotones
Bonus Recipe online
(Sage and Canela-Rubbed Lamb with Grilled Peaches)
Trufas Carajillo (Espresso-Spanish Brandy Truffles) by James Campbell Log on to ediblesantafe.com
1 T. chopped sage 3 cloves garlic, minced ½ T. ground cinnamon, preferably canela 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¼ C. olive oil 8 thick-cut lamb chops 2 C. Spanish Tempranillo wine (or Cabernet Sauvignon) ½ C. beef or veal stock 1 T. butter 4 ripe peaches, halved and pitted ½ C. crumbled Cabrales blue cheese
Strawberry Tart
In a small bowl, make a paste of the sage, garlic, cinnamon, salt and olive oil. Rub onto lamb. Marinate in refrigerator for 1 to 2 hours. Combine the wine and stock in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Simmer 30 to 40 minutes or until reduced to about 1 ½ cups. Turn heat to low and stir in butter. Set aside and keep warm. Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high. Grill the lamb chops 5 minutes per side, or until preferred doneness: internal temperature of 130 °F. for rare or 140 °F. for medium rare. Remove from heat to rest while preparing peaches. Grill peaches 1 minute per side. Arrange lamb and peaches on a platter, drizzling with wine sauce. Just before serving, sprinkle with blue cheese. Adapted from Espana: Exploring the Flavors of Spain by James Campbell Caruso
1 ¼ C. flour ¼ C. roasted almonds; finely ground ½ t. salt 2 T. sugar 6 T. cold unsalted butter; cut into ¼ inch slices ¼ C. chilled vegetable shortening; cut into 4 pieces ¼ C. ice water 3 lbs. fresh strawberries 1 C. sugar 2 T. cornstarch 1 ½ t. unflavored gelatin Pinch of salt 1 T. lemon juice Whipped cream, or crème fraiche (optional) Prepare the crust: in a food processor, pulse the flour, almonds, salt and sugar until combined. Add butter and shortening and process until dough starts to collect in uneven sandy pebbles (it will look like cottage cheese). Add water and mix, but be careful not to over mix. Remove dough onto plastic wrap, forming into flat disk, wrapping completely. Refrigerate for 45 minutes. Roll out dough on a floured surface while still cold. Gently pick up and put into 14” tart pan with a removable bottom. Use fingers to shape the dough across the bottom and up the sides. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 425°F. Line the inside of the tart shell with foil and add pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove foil and weights and bake for additional 5 minutes or until crust is golden brown and crisp. Let cool to room temperature. Prepare the filling: Rinse and de-stem all strawberries and cut in half. Place approximately 8 ounces in a food processor and blend until smooth (you should have about 1-1/2 cups). Whisk sugar, cornstarch, salt and gelatin and medium size sauce pan. Stir in strawberry puree. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. Boil for 2 minutes to make sure cornstarch is fully cooked. Remove from heat and add lemon juice. Let cool to room temperature. Pour cooled glaze over strawberries and gently toss to coat. Spoon berries into tart shell. For additional pizazz, rearrange berries to fill gaps, turning them over so cut side is not seen. Refrigerate pie for 2 hours. Serve with a dollop of whipped cream or crème fraiche.
Strawberry Tart
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Adapted from Chef Frederick Muller of El Meze in Taos
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edible Santa Fe 路 Summer 2012
summer read
Tasting New Mexico A Tasty excerpt from the latest book by NM authors Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison Authors of fifteen cookbooks and travel guides, Cheryl and Bill Jamison write with passion and wit about American home cooking, the food and culture of the Southwest, barbeque, and tropical beach travel. Leading authorities on each of these topics, the Jamisons are among the nation’s most lauded culinary professionals, with numerous honors that include four James Beard Awards and an IACP award. Their latest collaboration is Tasting New Mexico, published by University of New Mexixo Press. Cheryl is contributing culinary editor for New Mexico Magazine and works as culinary consultant with the New Mexico Tourism Department and the New Mexico History Museum. For three decades the Jamisons have lived in Tesuque, New Mexico, just outside of Santa Fe, in a converted adobe dairy barn shaded by fruit trees. Few aspects of life in New Mexico say as much about our cultural heritage as our food. And what food it is—elemental, earthy, lively, a true taste of home. We can directly trace the roots of our traditional and contemporary cooking to the corn and other crops first planted by the ancestors of the Pueblos, to the frontier resourcefulness of early Spanish colonists who brought livestock along with many fruits and vegetables, and to the nineteenth-century introduction of new ingredients and ideas from the eastern United States. These influences, melded together over our one hundred years of statehood, produce a singular cuisine that inspires pride and passion among New Mexicans. Tasting New Mexico honors our state’s culinary legacy with one hundred recipes from throughout the past century that showcase the best of our cooking. Find long-time home favorites like chile stews both green and red, albóndigas (meatballs), carne adovada (pork braised in red chile), pollo con arroz (chicken simmered with rice), roasted cabrito (kid), spring quelites (greens), chicos (dried corn), both fry bread and sopaipillas, and silky natillas custard. Take a page from another part of New Mexico’s scrumptious past with Edith Warner’s chocolate cake. Sample today’s wildly popular green chile cheeseburgers and blue corn-piñon pancakes, or legendary restaurant creations like La Posta de Mesilla’s tostadas compuestas and The Pink Adobe’s steak Dunigan. The book ranges well beyond the recipes, though, to tell the story of the food culturally and historically, and contrasts our food with that of our neighbors in the Southwest and northern Mexico. The book further details how New Mexico’s agricultural abundance comes not from perfect soil and climate, but from the ingenuity and tenacity of its farmers and ranchers. Tasting New Mexico is further packed with tasty quotes, luscious photos, and simply great stories. Pull up a chair at the communal table and dig in. Buen provecho!
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Tweety and Norm Suazo and their son Travis and his wife, Sasheen, have welcomed us warmly into their Acoma Pueblo home for Acoma Feast Day as well as Christmas dances. We look forward to Tweety’s famous Pueblo fruit pies, as light and flaky as any we’ve tasted and filled with a delicious mixture of dried apricots and plums. When the Acoma cacique, or governing council, chose its new governor in early 2011, the Suazos invited us to come to their other residence, on a hilltop in Rio Rancho, where Tweety was making all the pies for the Governor’s Feast. We learned how to make the pies firsthand, with Cheryl measuring Tweety’s handfuls, since she made them as her mother had made them, just learning by sight what quantities of everything were needed. Like many Native American bakers, Tweety opts for Blue Bird flour, milled in Cortez, Colorado (www.cortezmilling.com), but sold widely near the pueblos and Diné reservation. Tweety says that she rolls the dough a good bit thinner than is typical at Kewa (Santo Domingo) and San Felipe. While her mother would make larger round pies, Tweety shapes hers to fit on full baking sheets since she is often transporting them to various events.
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Feast Day Fruit Pies
Bake each sheet of pie squares for about 15 minutes, reversing the position of the baking sheets on the oven racks and turning the sheets around once halfway through the baking time. Crusts should be golden brown.
Makes 2 large baking sheets of pie squares Filling 12 ounces dried plums 12 ounces dried apricots Water 1/2 to 3/4 C. sugar
Let pies cool on the baking sheets for about 10 minutes. Recut the squares with the pizza cutter and remove to baking racks. Eat a few warm and the rest at room temperature.
Topping 1/2 C. sugar 1 t. ground cinnamon Dough 5 C. soft wheat pastry or biscuit flour, or all-purpose flour 2 t. salt 1½ t. baking powder (reduce by ¼ teaspoon at altitudes above 5,000 feet) 2 C. lard or vegetable shortening 1¾ to 2 C. water
Stands featuring giant glass jars brimming with Mexican-style aguas frescas, limonadas, and liquados have become increasingly widespread in New Mexico in recent years, but the love of fruit drinks goes back eons in human history. Watermelon, originally from Africa, arrived in New Mexico even before the Spanish, introduced by native traders bringing seeds north from Mexico. It’s been one of the area’s favorite fruits since that time and makes a marvelous juice. A few strawberries, a ripe peach, or a chunk of cantaloupe can be tasty and colorful additions.
For the filling: Combine plums and apricots in a saucepan with enough water to cover them. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook about 25 minutes, until very soft. Most of the water will have evaporated or have been absorbed by the fruit. Scrape fruit, in batches if necessary, into a food processor with the sugar. Puree. For the topping: Stir together the ingredients in a small bowl. For the dough: Stir together in a large bowl the flour, salt, and baking powder. Work in the lard or shortening with your fingers until evenly mixed. Add 1¾ cups water and work with your fingers to combine it. Add more water if needed to make a smooth, pie-crust-like dough. Form the dough into 4 equal-size balls. Assembly: Preheat the oven to 375° F. Roll out the first ball of dough on a lightly floured surface with a rolling pin into a rectangle that will fit the baking sheets, about ¼ inch in thickness. Pick the dough up carefully, winding it around the rolling pin to help support it as you tuck it onto the baking sheet, covering it fully. Spread the dough with half of the filling. Roll out the second ball of dough and place it over the filling. Crimp the outer edges neatly. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling. With a pizza cutter, slice the full baking sheets of pies into squares of the size you wish. For feast days, Tweety cuts hers into squares of about 2 inches. Prick the top of each pie square with the tines of a fork, then sprinkle all lightly with the topping.
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Agua de Sandia Serves 6 8 C. loosely packed seeded watermelon chunks ¼ C. packed fresh mint leaves 1½ C. water or sparkling water or lemonade Sugar Mint sprigs for garnish Puree the watermelon in a blender in batches, adding the ¼ cup of mint leaves to one of the batches. Pour the watermelon juice into a large pitcher. Stir in the water (or lemonade) and taste. Perfectly ripe, peak-of-the-season fruit doesn’t require sugar, but add a tablespoon or more if needed to get a well-balanced sweet and fruity taste. Chill for at least 1 hour. Pour over ice in tall glasses and garnish each with a mint sprig. Serve.
edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
memoir
Tasting Beauty Story and Photo by Elizabeth Grant Thomas
I am standing at the bottom of the driveway, waiting to ask Lilia where we can buy a few eggs to tide us over until morning. She rushes down the gravel path balancing something in each hand, her arms outstretched like a scale. “Here,” she says, presenting me with a puffy, round loaf of bread, “this is homemade today, with organic flour from our friends in Piedmont. And a little snack,” she says, offering her other hand. Maybe it’s because I haven’t eaten anything for hours, but the chipped plate, heaped with thick slices of fresh, creamy mozzarella and sprinkled with Lilia’s own sharp, yellow-green olive oil and herbs, is breathtaking. I am effusive in my thanks, to which Lilia demurs, “It’s nothing.” But, as I soon come discover in this tiny corner of Italy, it is everything. My husband, Maikael, and I are staying at an agriturismo, or tour-
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ist farm, in the hamlet of Framura, situated just outside the famed Cinque Terre, where Lilia, her husband, Guido, and her daughter, Giulia, work together to provide guests a taste of Italian country life. Our quarters are a charming studio apartment in a farmhouse on the property, which is stocked with homemade tomato sauce from last year’s harvest and golden jars of honey from the modest cluster of hives that we can see from our windows, each emblazoned with the farm’s own cheerful label. A cache of wine, the bottles slapped with the same colorful sticker, stands sentry at the building’s front door. As we drove from the train station that afternoon, Lilia said, “If you like, this evening I make sausage from our neighbors’ pigs! And polenta with cabbage from our garden!” Her lilting voice is expressive, as if every word she speaks is worthy of an exclamation point. Lilia says
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dinner will be ready around eight o’clock, and when the hour comes and goes we’re not sure if we should call or go up to the house. Just then, there is a forceful knock at our door, and there is Giulia, cradling a silver platter. We had not expected room service, but Maikael rushes downstairs to pluck a bottle of red wine to accompany our meal. It is simple fare – hand-formed sausage cakes, a creamy mound of toothsome polenta, everyday table wine – but it is a beautiful tableau, everything crafted and arranged with obvious attention and care. Our only plan for the next week is to make our way into the Cinque Terre for hikes that offer unfettered views of the Mediterranean below, but the next morning clouds roll over the mountains like thick steam. Lilia has an errand to run in nearby Chiavari and she suggests we come along. When we ask her to point us toward a typical Ligurian restaurant for lunch, Lilia leads us down a warren of narrow streets to a small restaurant with no discernible name. Locals are pouring in and out, and we are immediately seated in my version of a dream: wedged between two dessert cases. The only thing I recognize on the menu, which changes daily, is lasagne al forno al pesto, but wanting to venture out of my comfort zone I haphazardly choose a few plates based on my very limited Italian. While we eat our lunch I study the women arranging simple but beautiful desserts I’ve never heard of, some that defy translation, such as panella and cantucci, and others, like torta casalinga con Moscato – homemade cake served with Moscato – that need no explanation. I watch a woman prepare the latter, slicing a generous triangle of cake studded with dried fruit. She pours a tall, slender glass of the honeycolored wine, scrutinizing it, her eyes trained on the bubbles that stutter to the surface. Finally, declaring it slightly flat, she pitches it out and starts over again with a new bottle. I smile. It is in these details that beauty resides, transforming a humble dessert into something
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special, and I am not surprised when my crostata di mele, a tart filled with pears and lashed with honey, is the best I’ve ever tasted. One morning, Lilia excitedly tells me that she is baking a cake for the lovely Canadian couple staying in the apartment next to ours; they are celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary. “It is an antique recipe,” she says. That evening, Guido delivers the now-familiar silver platter piled high with pansotti, stuffed pasta filled with vegetables and dressed in a vibrant tomato sauce. A slender laurel leaf from the garden, dredged in sauce, provides a splash of color. As we eat I hear Lilia cry, “Happy anniversary!,” followed by the chatter of her whole family, there to present the cake, which brings tears to my eyes. Awhile later there is a soft knock on our door, revealing a lavish wedge of cake from our obliging neighbors. It is like no cake I’ve ever eaten: thin layers of dry pastry sandwiched between lemon-scented cream and rich pudding, the entire affair bathed in soft chocolate. It is a little lopsided but it is perfect. Until this day I never understood why my mother, a professional pastry chef, preferred what she called “homey cakes” to her own perfectly crafted creations. This is what it means to prepare food with love, to make your care and attention manifest. In the words of Theophile Gautier, “Art is beauty, the perpetual invention of detail, the choice of words, the exquisite care of execution.” I went to Italy in search of beauty: a perfectly frothed cappuccino and pastry cases that glimmered like jewel boxes. Instead, I found it in the glint of a silver tray, the hopeful fizz of wine, the slope of a homemade cake. Elizabeth Grant Thomas is a nonfiction writer who contributes regularly to Edible Santa Fe. She can be found every other Tuesday at ediblesantafe. com, where she chronicles her family’s journey “back to the table,” on Twitter @egrantthomas, or at her website, elizabethgrantthomas.com.
edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
edible southwest
Wild Harvest: Prickly Pear & Mesquite By Lois Ellen Frank
Photo by Carole Topalian Wild foods have played an essential, even pivotal role, in shaping the lives and diet of Native American communities throughout the Americas. Here in the Southwest, wild foods have been harvested for millennia and there are few places that rival the enormous plant and animal diversity found here. All regions of the Southwest, from the southern low-lying deserts to the extensive mesas and rugged mountains provide a bounty of food. A number of adaptive mechanisms enable plants to withstand arid conditions. In order to survive the stressful dry environment, intensely hot in the summer and harshly cold in the winter, plants of this region have undergone rapid evolutionary specialization. Many plants of the desert have become chemical factories, producing compounds that help them to survive. Some plants, drought evaders, remain inactive during dry periods and photosynthesize only when moisture becomes available. These include desert annuals that produce seeds with the
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ability to remain viable for long periods of drought, and perennial plants that store water and nutrients in bulbs and rhizomes. Droughtresistant desert shrubs persist through drought periods by shedding most of their leaves, stems, and rootlets, which reduces the activity and water requirements. Other desert plants have the ability to minimize water loss. And even others, such as cacti, can store water internally. Once a forager knows what to look for, how to harvest, and how to prepare these wild harvested foods they can become a seasonal addition to their diet. There is an art to harvesting and processing a wild food and the traditional ecological knowledge or TEK associated with it is an important part of many tribal communities of the region. This knowledge, based on local environmental resources can be defined as an adaptive process that is handed down through generations by cultural transmission.
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Harvesting in the wild, however, has specific protocol that needs to be followed and a forager must know which plants are edible and which are not as many can look alike. A wild forager is always respectful of the land and environment. I was taught by the elders in my life to first make an offering before I harvest, and to talk to the plants I am harvesting. By explaining to the plants why I was harvesting them and how they will be used, the plants work with me and help whomever I feed with them to be healthy. Always take only what you need, and leave the rest. The remaining plants provide food for the animals and birds that share the same food source, and the plants themselves can propagate so there will be an abundance that will continue to grow for future generations. One of my favorite wild foods is the prickly pear fruit. Prickly pears are the deep red fruits of the Engelmann’s prickly pear (Opuntia engelmannii). They are about the size of an egg and have a wonderful flavor. Prickly pears are a good source of vitamins A and C, and high in fiber. For generations, the sap of the pads (a substance similar to aloe) has been used to soothe skin irritations such as burns, wounds, and sunburn. Researchers have begun to look back at traditional ancestral diets to see if the foods consumed in the past might solve contemporary health problems, and they have found that this sap or cactus gel is also extremely helpful in dealing with diabetes and high cholesterol. Eating the cactus pads can help regulate blood glucose levels for those with no-insulin-dependent diabetes, and to reduce blood levels of triglycerides and bad cholesterol while not affecting the level of good cholesterol. The prickly pear fruit juice has anti-inflammatory properties and is packed full of anti-oxidants.
food staple of the Native Americans who ground them to make sweet flour that could be used for soups, drinks, puddings, porridge, and dried cakes.The mesquite (from the Nahuatl mizquitl) is a leguminous plant of the Prosopis genus found in northern Mexico and up into the Southwestern United States. It is a deciduous tree that can reach a height of 20 to 30 feet and it can draw water from the water table through its long taproot (recorded at up to 190 feet in depth) so it is perfectly suited to the desert environment. Mesquite trees produce a pod, which has the shape and size of a green bean, thus they are often called a mesquite bean. The most edible portion of the pod is the pulp between the outside and the hard seeds. This pith portion of the pod has a very sweet, brown-sugary flavor, which can be ground into a meal and used for a variety of dishes and in baking. The flavor of the pods seems to vary from tree to tree, some being sweeter than others. Grinding the dry pods is laborious and difficult because the slightly gummy pith can clog up any grinding blades, but once ground into flour, it adds a sweet, nutty taste to breads, or it can be used to make jelly or even wine. Some common species of mesquite are the honey mesquite, velvet mesquite, creeping mesquite, and screw bean mesquite. Being a legume, it fixes nitrogen in the soil where it grows, improving soil fertility.
Another important wild harvested food is the mesquite bean. Almost forgotten as a food, mesquite pods are making a comeback as health researchers address the growing problem of diabetes amongst some of the desert Indian communities. Type 2 diabetes was virtually unheard of in Southwestern tribes as many of their native foods had protective properties and helped keep blood sugar levels low and stable. As mesquite meal began to be replaced with white flour and other unhealthy foods were added to their diet, type 2 diabetes became a problem, and Native populations in the Southwest now have the highest rates of diabetes in the world. Mesquite is a high-protein super food: low on the glycemic index, it is gluten-free, a good source of calcium, iron, lysine, manganese, potassium, and zinc. With respect to diabetes, it is a good source of soluble fiber, tannins, inulin, and mucilaginous polysaccharide gums that help to prevent and improve diabetes. It’s no wonder that Native American communities relied on mesquite pods as a food source for thousands of years: mesquite beans are abundant, easy to gather, always available even in drought years, and contain plenty of vitamins. The tree and its pods were an important
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Al Smoake harveting mesquite - Photo by Lois Ellen Frank
edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
edible southwest (continued) Al and Jane Smoake: A & J Family Farms, Lemitar, New Mexico This past year, I met Al and Jane Smoake, they have a small food business in Lemitar, NM, featuring products made from both prickly pears and mesquite. Al started making mesquite bean and prickly pear cactus products in 1976 and in 1994 began offering his products for sale at local farmer’s markets. Al and his wife Jane used the community kitchen in Socorro to produce their line of prickly pear and mesquite foods products, where they are still produced today. Al and Jane are a food love story: Jane came out to New Mexico for a visit, where she met Al and he gave her some of his prickly pear jelly. She told him it was the best jelly she had ever eaten; they fell in love and were married in 2007. Together they harvest, then process and produce an array of products made from prickly pear fruits and mesquite beans; the two pride themselves on using these two wild foods as the base for their artisanal line of jellies and syrups. Their wild harvest comes from neighboring Bernalillo, Socorro and Sierra Counties and they are experimenting with growing a variety of prickly pears on their small ranch in Lemitar. Last year they harvested somewhere in the neighborhood of 8,000 lbs. of prickly pears by hand, which yielded about 16,000 ten ounce jars of prickly pear cactus jelly. Their product is free of artificial colorings, flavorings, or preservatives; rather they use a brix refractometer, which is a small machine that determines the soluble sugars and solids in the fruits. When harvesting, they take a hand held squeezer, juice several fruits, and then test for sugar content using the refractometer. If the fruits aren’t per-
fectly ripe, they wait and return in a week or two and test again. Once they find a patch with perfectly ripe prickly pear fruits, they harvest and process the fruits into a juice extract, without adding a drop of water, “It’s pure juice”, Al states. Al and Jane also hand harvest their mesquite beans, mainly on a ranch in Escondida that belongs to friends. Cooking the mesquite beans into syrup is a two-step process: first they make the extract by boiling the mesquite beans into a stockpot and filtering the liquid through a fine wire-mesh strainer and then a paper filter. Once extracted, they make syrup and other products, including mesquite jelly. “We are very, very proud of the work we do, we are the only company in New Mexico that makes such a wide variety of products from prickly pears and mesquite” Al comments. Their most recent addition to the prickly pear product line is a prickly pear vinaigrette that Al thinks is the best in the Southwest; they are working on a prickly pear candy and several other new products. For more information and to order products from A & J Family Farms visit: www.pricklypearcactusproducts.com 505-507-0991, email: aandjfamilyfarm@yahoo.com Dr. Lois Ellen Frank is a Santa Fe, New Mexico based Native American Chef, Native American foods historian, culinary anthropologist, author and photographer. She is co-owner (with Chef Walter Whitewater of the Diné Nation) of Red Mesa Cuisine. Red Mesa is a Santa Fe catering company that features Native American, sustainably sourced foods and hand gathered wild ingredients from Native American communities throughout the United States. Photos by Lois Ellen Frank
Al and Jane Soake
edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
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Harvesting Prickly Pears
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Taos, NM 35
edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
photo by Matka Wariatka @fotolia.com
edible Santa Fe 路 Spring 2012
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Urban Foraging By Amelia White Urban foraging can be very rewarding in the summer, but it’s important to be careful and considerate! Bear in mind these basic guidelines: Don’t take more than you need; pick in a balanced and selective manner. Even in wild areas, don’t over pick - consider the impact on the plant and the ecosystem. Animals depend on nuts and berries for food, and in many New Mexico forests the wildflowers have been picked to death. If you pick too many leaves, a plant may die. If you pick all the berries or flowers, the plant can’t reproduce. Ask permission before you pick. The owner may have put time and energy into caring for the plant (especially something like a rose bush) so don’t take them without asking. You can often find unwanted fruit on neighborhood trees, and people may even be glad it’s not going to waste, but ask anyway. The worst that can happen is they say no, and the best that can happen is you make a new friend. Fruit hanging over fences onto the sidewalk is generally considered fair game, however. Watch out for pesticides and other chemicals. Many plants in an urban area may have been sprayed to control pests and weeds, so use good judgment or ask people who live nearby. Runoff from parking lots or driveways, or car exhaust near roads, can also contaminate plants. Be sure you’ve identified the correct plant. Use a reputable field guide to make sure you know what you’re picking! Edible Native Plants of the Rocky Mountains by H.D. Harrington has good drawings, descriptions, and even a few recipes.
Five Things to Forage Now: Purslane (Verdolagas) – Often seen as a creeping weed in New Mexico gardens, this succulent has thick, juicy stems and leaves with a tangy flavor. It’s super-nutritious, with a high concentration of hearthealthy omega-3 fatty acids, as well as lots of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. Harvest in the morning for best flavor. It’s good in salads (see recipe), or added to spinach in spanakopita. Roses and Rose Hips – Roses are in full glory during early summer, and there are tons of recipes out there for candied rose petals and homemade rosewater. Rose hips are the fruits that are left after the petals fall off. They are high in Vitamin C and make a pleasantly sour tea or jelly. It’s especially important with roses to be sure the owner won’t mind, and they haven’t been sprayed with pesticides. It’s generally not ok to pick roses in public rose gardens, but there are plenty of wild roses in the mountains and huge neglected climbing roses in town if you look.
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Stone Fruits – Apricots, cherries, plums, then peaches come into season as the summer progresses. Even ornamental plums and crabapples produce edible fruits that make a fine jam. Thimbleberries – High in the mountains, you’ll often see a shrub with red berries that look kind of like flattened raspberries. They taste much like raspberries, but they are too soft and fragile to be commercially grown. Sumac (Lemonade Berry) – This mountain shrub produces small red berries that have a tangy flavor. Native Americans used them to make a lemonade-like beverage, and Middle Eastern cultures use a similar species as a spice. It’s a key component in za’atar, a delicious mixture of thyme, sumac, sesame seeds and salt. It’s also known as squawbush (or skunkbush sumac because the crushed leaves have a strong smell, but don’t be put off by the name!) You can find a specimen in the native plant garden at the New Mexico Museum of Natural History and Science in Albuquerque.
Apricot and Grilled Purslane Salad Serves 4 as a side Fresh apricots were delicious in this lemony salad with some queso fresco, but I’m also looking forward to trying it with peaches and blue cheese later in the season. Or, use cherry tomatoes and feta. 2 T. lemon juice 2 T. olive oil 1/4 t. salt Freshly ground black pepper 4-5 fresh apricots 2 ounces queso fresco, feta, or blue cheese 1 lb. purslane (large whole sprigs, preferably a few whole plants) Oil for grilling Whisk together lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Chop the apricots, crumble the cheese, and add them to the bowl. Wash the purslane very thoroughly, keeping it in big pieces for grilling (if you’ve pulled whole plants, keep the roots on – they’re easier to handle that way). Dry it gently and rub or brush with oil. Grill over medium heat, turning several times, until the stems are soft and droopy. Using scissors, snip into 2-inch pieces over the bowl, discarding the roots. Toss with dressing and serve hot or cold.
edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
artists’ diaries
Tales of Thatcher Gray: A Year in Grandpa’s Garden
Story and Paintings by Lee Lee • Haiku's by Peter Leonard
Anticipation Watching throughout spring, summer It is worth the wait
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Upon the birth of my son, Thatcher Gray, I became acutely aware of the emerging evidence that our industrialized food machine is taking a tremendous toll on our health and wreaking havoc on the environment. It spurred me to create a series of paintings about industrial agriculture. Resting on foundations of oil, the work references the limited resource of fossil fuels. Lennie Bennett of the St Petersburg Times describes my Refinery paintings; “In some ways they hearken back to Charles Sheeler’s industrial landscapes of the mid 20th century. But Sheeler celebrated a generally held faith back then in industry’s power to create a stronger, better nation. Lee Lee, too, portrays her subject as a grand edifice but footnotes it with a murky pool of contaminated water that dispels the old optimism.” Industrial structures like slaughterhouses are presented in states of abandonment and decay to suggest that by nature they are un-sustainable. The work has been featured in exhibitions in Chelsea, St Petersburg, Denver and San Francisco, receiving critical acclaim because it is touching a nerve with people who are concerned about the state of our current food system.
While it is important to explore the way things are, it is also important to present solutions to our problems. As a counterpoint to the work created in regards to the industrial food machine, I am working with a series of watercolors based on the development of a high desert permaculture garden built by my father and son in Taos. Together, we are exploring the importance of sustainable agriculture in a way which encourages people to get their hands in the dirt of their own backyard. The paintings are paired with haiku written by my father, master gardener, Peter Leonard. Permaculture is interesting to me as it is very forward looking. The approach shifts depending on locale, responding to specific climates and cultural norms. It brings traditional wisdom to the forefront and works in collaboration with the nature which sustains us. Ultimately, we envision using this work as an educational tool for children. You can find out more about this project at www.TalesOfThatcherGray.com.
Carrots have patience First year root, second flower Third year - new carrots
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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
artists’ diaries: tales of thatcher gray (continued) Take tender young squash Combine with home-grown onions What could be better?
Lee Lee’s work this summer:
Artist Contact:
2012 Summer GardenTours: Featuring tours of the permaculture garden, aquaponics system & paintings in the studio.
Lee Lee www.Lee-Lee.com
August 4: Los JardinerosGarden Tour - www.gardencluboftaos.org
PO Box 592 Taos NM 87571 - USA
September 1-3: TAO Studio Tour – www.taosartist.org
303.570.3152
September 27: ISEA2012 MachineWilderness: Re-envisioning Art, Technology & Nature - Taos extension day - www.isea2012.org
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artists’ diaries
Compose/Decompose By Jan Brooks • Photos by Nancy Sutor
Narcisuss & Avocado In New Mexico, compost requires more vigilance that environments less starved for humidity and moisture demand. Water, an ingredient that lubricates the chemistry needed to cook up the black gold used to encourage seeds, is crucial. It is through the daily anointment with water and organic matter, the rituals of composting, that photographer Nancy Sutor began what would become an aesthetic journey. Several years ago, Sutor was in the process of a break with her past, a life and artistic transition that resulted in the decision to make images most immediate and responsive to her surroundings. She sought to closely examine her daily rituals, including her activities as a gardener and cook, and to bring these patterns into slow motion. Sutor wanted to breathe with the full grace and rewards of letting her intuition rule.
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She imposed on her artistic practice the limitations of photographing only in her immediate backyard and to discourage any conscious calculation. Breaking with the old patterns of thinking and feeling encouraged an embrace of deeper observation of herself, her internal life and her fundamental passion for dirt, for growing and monitoring weather, soil chemistry, sunlight, mapping plant relationships --the activities of a gardener. Sutor hit “pay dirt” as we like to say in the South, and Compose Decompose was the result. Intimately observing a compost pile is a reminder that life can be slowed; soil changes happen steadily, the transformation is gradual, and decay discloses its own particular beauty in the process. Decomposition offers endless metaphorical possibilities - our body’s cellular
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artists’ diaries: compose/decompose (continued)
Chrysanthemum & Green Plums
death and renewal, the personal life cycles we witness and externally experience in our own bodies. But, the beauty found in the accidental composition that results with each new offering to the compost is what these images are about. Composition unfolds as plant and food structures break down, microorganisms throw a party and render a temporary collage that fleetingly documents prior culinary journeys in the kitchen, time markers of meals at the dining table. There, in this gradual decay, we can lose ourselves in her mingling diary of accidental theater. It is in that primal intersection that Sutor lounges, capturing the beauty of organic transformation as the plot unfolds. It is there that she shares this private exploration of her compost and by association, the evidence of her personal life; her food choices, her curated selections of flowers, grown or purchased, meals lovingly prepared. This slow motion pace, breathing in the mental renewal, being fully present inside that meditative observation is, for Nancy Sutor, a potent and fitting place to hangout. And the resulting images may prompt our own consideration of measuring time, our own associative meanings and reflection on tending and caring for the earth, the
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fueling of micro organisms, the tiny universes that contribute a single thread in a tapestry of essential fuel for the food we need. But whether one ponders any larger ideas or not, the images are rich in their ability to convey her experience and are beautiful for their capacity to share the aesthetic possibilities inherent in decay. Sutor’s photographs also celebrate the ritual of paying attention to the every day, leaving the cell phone off, ignoring the traffic, turning off the noise. And, she asks us to watch as the most basic components of food; sunlight, soil, water and time do a slow dance there in the compost. Her images implicate the making and remaking that can be essential to the fecundity of any organism. Stay tuned. She has just begun. Jan Brooks is a writer, artist and consultant to foundations, including those with programs that focus on the food system. Jan is also a cook and spent many years designing and making custom cooking utensils. She owns Coulter Brooks Art & Antiques with her husband, the historian Lane Coulter.
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Tomatoes
Lemon &Leaves
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Pumpkin & Asters
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edible Santa Fe 路 Summer 2012
artists’ diaries
Enchanted Garden A Tale of Transformation
By Nissa Patterson • Photos by Sondra Goodwin
Michelle Trujillo, Owner On an unseasonably warm day I buzz up a dusty Santa Fe road, searching for a garden. Clinging to the sides are the adobe walls that occasionally break to provide glimpses into serene compounds. I peer up a few driveways and finally identify where I am going by a waist-high pile of mulch at the end of the driveway. As I round a stand of juniper a pickup truck comes barreling up another driveway and stops in front of me. A friendly, if not a bit harried, woman jumps out and gives my hand a determined handshake. “I’m Sondra. Come with me. ” On her website Sondra says of herself, “having lived in Switzerland, France, Argentina, Ecuador and the United States, she considers herself a European child, a U.S. teen and a woman of the world.” She is a photographer, performer, landlord, and she loves to “save buildings” by remodeling them. She is interested in a thousand things but she is also a woman rooted in place, in many ways just a simple gardener. Sondra bought this three-quarter of an acre patch of land six years ago. There was a house, a shed, the rock building, a pool and, in between,
edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
large seas of concrete, Astroturf and asphalt, all surrounded by a sixfoot-high chain link fence. Most people would look at this property and walk away - indeed, it languished on the market for many years, but Sondra states simply, “I just don’t see problems, I see possibilities.” I scramble to keep up with Sondra, tripping over the carpet of sunflower starts that are so pervasive they are the ground cover. Out of the corner of my eye I spy a raspberry hedge spanning 40 feet, fruits trees resplendent with healthy spring growth, and what looks to be asparagus unfurling its spring glory. As an avid gardener myself I can instantly see I am in no regular garden. Perhaps, as I ascended the driveway up to Sondra Goodwin’s house, I went through some sort of Alice in Wonderland rabbit hole and landed in beauty itself. We start the tour of her property in a large area of raised beds. Framed by a sturdy rock wall, it is the perfect English kitchen garden: tidy, productive, enchanting. This is where she plants everything from peas to tomatoes, and as we move through the space Sondra also tells me
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about the trees and bushes that ring the area. Her favorite tree source is Tooley’s Trees from Truchas because they specialize in varieties that are drought tolerant. There are paws paws, American persimmons, chestnut crab apples, Asian pears, che fruit, and the unusual medlar, which yields a fruit that is improved by a frost, and can be scooped from the rind with a spoon, the perfect garden snack. Her choice in trees is just like her: unique and amazing. We leave the kitchen garden as we walk the property every foot brings us to something that is edible; the amount and variety of food Sondra grows is incredible. She enthusiastically points out the rhubarb, burdock, gooseberries, currants, and a field of arugula that is now a landing pad for scores of bees. Rounding the corner of her house we head towards the rooftop beehive and the onions, potatoes and strawberries, nestled in their patches. Sondra has done her research, and experimented, with the variety of plants that do well in the Santa Fe climate. She highly recommends ogallala strawberries for their hardiness and excellent flavor, the chestnut crab apple for yielding apple sauce, and “patio peaches” because they grow such a dense crown of leaves that the nestled fruits are protected from birds.
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Once the tour is over we duck into a building constructed of rock and enter into an airy, modern space dominated by growing lights, plant starts, and art books. Sondra’s ethereal pictures of vegetables are tacked to the walls. The tour is over. I turn to meet Sondra’s eye. I have so much to ask about this place, and her. “Why? Why do you do all this?,” I ask. “I have too,” she says, without missing a beat. “Ever since I was little I had the desire to have my own garden and to make everything.” Her longing has roots in a childhood spent climbing in the cherry orchard near her home in Switzerland and train rides with her nose pressed to the window to look at the Schrebergärten, the community garden plots that often line railways in many European countries. Looking at the gardeners sitting next to their gardening huts, drinking wine, she thought, “I want to be those people.” As she tells me about her childhood Sondra flips though her voluminous notebooks full of seeds, including all matter of unique root vegetables, such as root chervil, rampion and scorzonera, and it is clear that her longing to garden goes back even further and deeper, “in the cave person part of my brain I feel immense satisfaction because I know I am not going to starve.” If you have to do something you just do it.
edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
artists’ diaries: the enchanted garden (continued) It must be this deep drive that carried her through the hard work (most of which she did herself ), conflicts with local authorities about permitting, and the doubts that a self-taught gardener might understandably have. It took three years to banish the Astroturf and replace it with truckloads of City of Santa Fe mulch and compost. The first few winters were spent working on the rock containment walls, and then each plant was selected with the idea of growing food; very little is ornamental. Efficient drip and water catchment systems ensure that water is used preciously. She did not begin with a neatly printed master plan, rather letting the place evolve, a patch of this here and vine up the wall there. Slowly the land healed. We wind up our visit talking about cooking and eating. Sondra claims she is lazy; she hates to go shopping and the garden is the perfect grocery store. After long hours at her job on the set of a TV show she can tumble outside, pick some asparagus, and whip up a soup. She has collected old kitchen garden cookbooks from Europe to help her learn how to prepare the rare root vegetables she is experimenting with but mostly she prefers her vegetables fresh, cooked straight from the garden, perfect in their simplicity. Sondra makes jam, gives voluminous amounts away and puts the harvest up in the root cellar, which must give her inner cave person immense satisfaction. I hate to leave, but with her busy schedule, I know prolonging my visit might leave her gardening by headlamp. Mint cuttings in hand I head back down the rabbit hole, with the satisfaction of having shared time with someone who is living a life they have to live and eating very, very well.
Before
After
Some of Sondra’ favorite sources of trees: Tooley’s Trees, tooleystrees.com Burnt Ridge Nursery, burntridgenursery.com One Green World, onegreenworld.com
Sondra’s vegetable artwork: axleart.com/index/Goodwin.html
Nissa Patterson is a mother, writer, gardener, and public health professional. Her place is in the garden, where she is exploring the joys of growing food for her family.
Chef David Sundberg and Brewer John Bullard
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Eat Local Guide
New Mexico has its own unique food traditions—from Hatch to Chimayo—and we’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants and chefs that create the distinctively New Mexico dining experience. Restaurants are chosen for this dining guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients in their menus and their commitment to real food.
ALBUQUERQUE Annapurna Annapurna is a woman-owned vegetarian restaurant serving healing cuisine in Albuquerque since 2001 and Santa Fe since 2005. This premier organic establishment focuses on a made-fromscratch menu that is Ayurvedic (a healing system from India), vegan and gluten-free, including its own vegan and gluten-free bakery. 2201 Silver Ave SE, 505-262-2424 7520 4th St NW, 505-254-2424 chaishoppe.com
Savoy Bar and Grill Savoy is a casual fine dining, locally-owned restaurant in Albuquerque’s Northeast Heights. Savoy has a full bar, extensive wine list, serves steaks, oysters, and fresh fish. We have a beautiful patio and lounge, featuring specials and a great happy hour daily. Lunch Monday – Friday 11 am – 3 pm; Dinner daily at 5 pm 10601 Montgomery NW, 505-294-9463 savoyabq.com
Artichoke Café Celebrating its 21st year in business, the Artichoke Cafe offers casual fine dining, a Wine Spectator Award Winning Wine List and Artisan Cocktails in the full-service bar. Private rooms are available for special occasions and meetings. Off-premise catering. On-premise parking with attendant on duty. Walk from the Albuquerque Railrunner stop. 424 Central Ave. SE, 505-243-0200 artichokecafe.com
Seasons Rotisserie & Grill Great food and wine with a seasonal flair. Enjoy our wood-fired steaks and seafood while sipping a glass of wine from our award winning wine list. Or, relax on our rooftop patio and enjoy our happy hour with a great view of Old Town, Albuquerque. Lunch Monday – Friday 11:30 am – 2:30 pm, Dinner daily at 5 pm 2031 Mountain NW, 505-766-5100 seasonsabq.com
Farm & Table Located in Albuquerque’s North Valley, Farm & Table recognizes that we are blessed with over 300 days of sunshine, irrigation from the Rio Grande, and rich soil. Our community is blossoming to promote health, sustainability, and the local economy. This celebration of local food and community is what drives the philosophy at Farm & Table. Wednesday and Thursday, 5 pm – 9 pm; Friday and Saturday, 5 pm – 10 pm; Saturday and Sunday, 9 am – 2 pm 8917 4th Street NW, 505-503-7124 farmandtablenm.com
The Grove Café & Market An artisan café serving breakfast, lunch and brunch. The Grove features local organic produce and products and always uses the highest quality seasonal ingredients available. Enjoy fine coffee, tea, wine and brunch cocktails and peruse our market for culinary gifts and favorite foodie items. Sunday brunch is a true taste of this bustling café scene. Tuesday – Saturday 7 am – 4 pm; Sunday 8am – 3 pm; Closed Monday 600 Central SE, 505-248-9800 thegrovecafemarket.com
Farina Pizzeria & Wine Bar An artisan pizzeria and wine bar with a classic Italian menu with a sophisticated twist. Great selection of affordable Italian wines, local Marble Brewery on draught, and delectable home-made desserts in a renovated historic building. Voted “Best New Restaurant” by Albuquerque Magazine. Walk from the Albuquerque Railrunner stop. 510 Central Ave SE, 505-243-0130 farinapizzeria.com Los Poblanos Inn Our cuisine is rooted in what comes from our farm as well as the New Mexico Rio Grande River Valley. Cuisine and ambiance reflect chef Jonathan Perno’s aesthetic, and the farm’s long established relationships with local farmers. Please check our website to see when the next dinner will be, or to book your own event or private dining experience. lospoblanos.com
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Zacatecas Zacatecas, an authentic Mexican Taqueria and Tequila bar created by Chef Mark Kiffin, offers Mexican specialties with fresh ingredients and a Margarita bar featuring Tequilas, Mezcal, and beer exclusively from Mexico. Zacatecas offers all day dining Monday through Saturday 11:30 am – 10 pm and on Sunday from Noon to 9 pm. 3423 Central NE, 505-255-TACO (8226) zacatecastacos.com Zinc Wine Bar and Bistro A three-level bistro in the heart of Nob Hill, Zinc features contemporary cuisine with a French flair. The intimate cellar bar serves a lighter menu with live music three nights a week. Serving lunch and dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails and tasty bar bites! Lunch Tuesday - Friday 11 am – 2:30 pm; Dinner daily at 5; Weekend brunch 11 am – 2:30 pm 3009 Central NE, 505-254-9462 zincabq.com
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SANTA FE Annapurna Annapurna is a woman-owned vegetarian restaurant serving healing cuisine in Albuquerque since 2001 and Santa Fe since 2005. This premier organic establishment focuses on a made-from-scratch menu that is Ayurvedic (a healing system from India), vegan and gluten-free, including its own vegan and gluten-free bakery. 1620 Saint Michaels Dr., 505-988-9688 chaishoppe.com Jambo Check out the buzz! Chef Ahmed Obo’s subtle, East African-inspired cuisine has taken Santa Fe by storm. Try the Souper Bowl-winning peanut, chicken, coconut stew, stuffed phyllo, jerked chicken, succulent locally-raised goat or lamb, curries, wraps, more. Open Monday – Saturday, 11 am – 9 pm 2010 Cerrillos Road, 505-473-1269 jambocafe.net Joe’s Dining Since 2002 Santa Fe’s largest purchaser of Farmers Market meats and produce, expertly prepared by European trained chef/owner. Mesquite grill, pizza, brunch, wine, beer. Excellent quality, exceptional value. 2801 Rodeo Rd. at Zia, 505-471-3800 Tuesday – Sunday 11:30 am – 9 pm joesdining.com
Come experience our new look and menu. Chef Gharrity is featuring New American West cuisine with fresh, local and organic ingredients. O u r N ew Pa t i o B a r o p e n s d a i l y a t 3 :00pm
La Casa sena A local favorite for over 27 years! Chef Gharrity features modern, sustainable cuisine, infused with Southwestern influences and fresh, local, seasonal ingredients. We also feature an award-winning wine list. Located in the historic Sena plaza. 125 E. Palace Ave 505-988-5232 Lunch Monday – Saturday 11 am – 3 pm; Sunday Brunch 11 am – 3 pm; Dinner 5:30 pm – 10 pm lacasasena.com
O p e n D a i l y 1 1 : 0 0 a m u n t i l c l os i n g 125 Eas t Palace, Santa Fe, NM 8750 1 (505) 988-9232 | lacasasena.com
Palace Restaurant & saloon Old world elegance meets creative, contemporary cuisine at this iconic Santa Fe eatery. Award winning chef Joseph Wrede crafts inspired seasonal menus that are complemented by a substantive wine selection and a slate of classic and craft cocktails. Monday – Friday 11:30 am – Midnight; Saturday 4 pm – Midnight 142 W Palace Ave. 505-428-0690 palacesantafe.com
Palace Restaurant & Saloon
The compound Chef/owner Mark Kiffin pairs seasonal contemporary American cuisine with great service in an historic adobe building designed by Alexander Girard. Extensive wine list, full bar, picturesque garden patios and elegant settings for private events. Lunch Monday – Saturday 11:30 am to 2 pm; Dinner Nightly 5:30 pm – Close 653 Canyon Rd, 505- 982-4353 compoundrestaurant.com
Lunch from $10 Dinner from $20
Vinaigrette A bright and lively bistro and wine bar in an historic adobe near downtown Santa Fe. Specializes in creative, gourmet entrée salads that highlight local and organic ingredients, including produce from the owner’s farm! Monday – Sunday 11 am – 9 pm; Closed Sunday 709 Don Cubero Alley, 505-820-9205 vinaigretteonline.com
One block West of Plaza Courtyard Open
TAOS
Eat Late 10:30 +
Doc Martin’s, Taos Inn Doc Martin’s Restaurant is a true Taos tradition, an acclaimed dining establishment located in a registered historic landmark. Executive Chef Zippy White specializes in fresh local food with a splash of the southwest, sourcing from regional farms and gardens. With over 400 wine selections, our world-class wine list has earned Wine Spectator’s “Best Of” Award of Excellence for twenty-one consecutive years. Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner, serving brunch on Saturday & Sunday. 575-758-2233, taosinn.com
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Kate Russell Photography
Fresh. Local. Seasonal.
505 428 0690 palacesantafe.com 142 W. Palace Ave Executive Chef Joseph Wrede
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AnnAn nnn nn nxnnnn Tnqnnnnnn&nTnqnnlnnBnn by Chef Mark Kiffn nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn Monday - Saturday yyyyyyyyyyyyyyy Sunday
Featuring daily food & drink specials you are what you eat the artichoke cafe | seasonal, sustainable, organic 424 Central SE | Albuquerque | 505/243-0200 | www.artichokecafe.com Lunch Mon-Fri | Dinner Mon-Sun
El Meze
s n nnnEnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnIn nn nnn Rnnnnnnn nyynn nn 8nynyynyy Featuring drink specials
505/243-0130 www.FarinaPizzeria.com 510 Central SE Albuquerque
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Eat Local Guide - Taos cont... Taos Diner and Taos Diner II Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown and organic breakfast, lunch and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine. Many ingredients from local farms and ranches. Fair trade organic coffee, where the locals go! 908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374 Taos Diner II 216B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989 The Gorge Bar and Grill A fun and casual restaurant, perfect for a delicious meal or cocktails and appetizers to top off the day. The menu is straightforward and yet eclectic, chock full of favorites with the special twist of The Gorge. Every dish on the menu is made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible. 103 East Taos Plaza Taos, 575-758-8866 thegorgebarandgrill.com
painting by Ellen Barbara Segner photograph by Fred Seibert
The DRAGON FLY The Dragonfly uses the highest quality ingredients, procured locally and organically when available, and hormone and antibiotic free dairy and non-cured meats. Seasonal produce is picked fresh from the chef’s garden or produced by small, local growers and in the off-season, produce is preserved and pickled for year round use. 402 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-737-5859 dragonflytaos.com thegorgebarandgrill.com
Breakfast Lunch Dinner Sunday Brunch
7:30 am – 9 pm | daily
When you've been there and done it all, come on home to Joe's. Celebrating and serving local farm foods.
fresh from the farm!
2801 Rodeo Rd, Santa Fe 505-471-3800 | joesdining.com
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Summer Events Inspire, Educate, Taste & Connect through the Story of Food On-Going Albuquerque edible Santa Fe and Friends will be hosting a series of cooking classes, lectures, food writing and food photography – classes ongoing. Most classes are held at Hanks House at 1800 4th Street NW, Albuquerque; some classes will be held at Los Poblanos Inn and Cultural Center on Rio Grande . For schedule and class description, visit kitchensinkstories.com
9th Annual Fine Art and Wine Festival June 16 – 17, 10am & Sunday 11am - 4pm Brandenburg Park, Red River
Visit the awe-inspiring town of Red River for its Fine Art & Wine Festival Father’s Day weekend. The event will showcase a wide range of works from sculptures, photography and pottery. New Mexico wineries will be offering wine tasting and seminars to please the palate while the arts please the eyes. redrivernm.com
Vintage Albuquerque
June 20 – 23 Various Albuquerque eateries One of the state’s premier art and culinary events, Vintage Albuquerque’s June Wine Week showcases the talents of local artists and restaurateurs alongside wineries and winemakers from top wineproducing regions around the world. vintagealbuquerque.org
Pollinator Awareness Day
June 23, 10am – 7 pm Open Space Visitors Center, Albuquerque
Toast of Taos
U-Pick Lavender
Join us for a fun-filled day beginning at 9am with golf at the beautiful Taos Country Club Golf Course. Breathtaking views of Taos Mountain greet every player. Enjoy gourmet wines and appetizers beginning at 2pm, along with a silent auction featuring works by notable artisans, fine wines and gourmet meals. toastoftaos.com
Pick your own bundle of lavender at Los Poblanos for $8, scissors and rubber bands will be supplied. The lavender fields are open for picking during The Farm Shop hours 9am - 5pm for this week only. No need to register, just show up! lospoblanos.com
June 23, 2pm – 5pm Taos Country Club, Taos
E’scape the Ordinary
June 23, 7pm Center for Ageless Living, Los Lunas Field to Food “E’Scape the Ordinary” fifth annual five course gourmet meal served under the stars at the Center for Ageless Living. This years featured food item: garlic and garlic scapes. All food items come from a 100 mile radius of the Center and honor local growers and food producers. Proceeds from the event support Field to Food programs including distribution of fresh produce to home bound elders and creation of a certified organic garden for elders. growageless.com
July 2 – 9, 9am - 5pm Los Poblanos Inn, Albuquerque
Santa Fe Wine Festival
July 7 – 8, Noon to 6pm daily El Rancho de Las Golondrinas, La Cienega The festival includes varietals from several different New Mexico wineries, live entertainment, food, traditional agricultural products and arts and crafts. $13 adult admission includes festival wine glass, $5 for ages 13-20. santafewinefestival.com
Smokin’ on the Pecos June 29 – 30 Artesia, New Mexico
NM State BBQ Championship! Kansas City BBQ Society sanctioned team competition for the serious competitor, Kids’ Q, and Backyard BBQ categories, as well as entertainment, crafts exhibits, Roughstock Challenge mini rodeo for kids, and NM Centennial Shootout cowboy mounted shooting competition. smokinonthepecos.us
An afternoon of FREE “bee aware” activities like feed a butterfly, learn how to keep honeybees, see a live, working hive up close, build native bee habitat, taste honeys from all over the city, and watch Queen of the Sun, sponsored by Burque Bioneers. openspacealliance.org
Lavender Fest
July 13 – 15, 8am – 4pm Los Ranchos de Albuquerque The return of a much-loved celebration of agriculture and culinary arts in the North Valley. lavenderinthevillage.com
Gaia Guild 2012 Food Garden Tour July 14 and 15, 10am – 3pm Albuquerque
The Tour features edible plants grown at private homes and small farms in the greater Albuquerque area. gaiaguild.webs.com
Destination Dinner Series The 4th Annual Cowboy Cookout A Bishop’s Lodge Summer Event July 1, 6pm Bishop’s Lodge, Santa Fe
Join us for our Gourmet BBQ Dinner – Grilled Steaks and Chicken, Braised Ribs, Ranch Burgers and All the Fixin’s! bishopslodge.com
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July 16, 7pm – 9pm BioPark, Albuquerque
Journey back in time to the Land of Enchantment at turn of the century. Dinner on the farmstead was made from homegrown veggies and handraised or hunted meat, such as sheep and rabbit. cabq.gov/biopark
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Photos by Stephanie Cameron, Amy Hetager, AND S.Kobold, Tribalmark, Vladimir Mucibabic @fotolia.com
Kitchen Sink Stories
Summer Events Battle of the Hops
Fall Gardening and Season Extensions
Traditional Plant Uses, Preparations, and Seed Saving Forum
The New Mexico IPA Challenge relies on your craft beer palate to make the call. The IPA Challenge is a blind tasting of over 15 of New Mexico’s finest IPA’s by 1,500 of New Mexico’s luckiest IPA judges. nmbeer.org
The Bernalillo County Open Space Backyard Farming Workshops are a series of free workshops that provide the public with practical experience and knowledge for transforming their backyards into a thriving urban oasis of food, medicine, and wildlife habitat. osbackyardfarming.wordpress.com
Burque Bioneers Celebrate the International Year of the Coop
100 Years of Landscape Change—2012 Native Plant Conference/Annual Meeting
Traditional communities in the East Mountains have long relied on their knowledge and experience with native plants for basic subsistence and treating a variety of ailments. This knowledge has been passed down from generation to generation. During this forum, a group of knowledgeable individuals will share tips and tricks for using and preparing plants and saving seeds. bernco.gov/openspace
July 22-26, 12pm – 6pm Various New Mexico Breweries Who has the best IPA in New Mexico? You be the judge.
July 26, 7pm – 9pm National Hispanic Cultural Center, Albuquerque A free film focusing on the International Year of the Coop and why the cooperative business model should be celebrated! Free. burquebioneers.org
2nd Annual KTAOS Solar Beerfest July 28, 3pm – 7pm KTAOS Solar Center, Taos
July 30, 9:30am – 2pm Gutierrez-Hubbell House, Albuquerque
August 9 - 12, All day Alamogordo
We begin our next centennial with a retrospect of the last 100 years and the current state of New Mexico phytogeography – recognized plant communities, ecoregions, etc. We’ll ask “What makes New Mexico landscape distinct?” npsnm.org
Beer and live music in Toas’ most reviered outdoor venue, featured performance by radio station favorites BREW. ktaos.com
August 11, 9am – 11am Sabino Canyon Open Space
Taste of the Market
August 13 – 17 Albuquerque Growers Markets Enjoy a week focused on local produce and the city’s wonderful and abundant growers markets. Games, entertainment, cooking demos and more at the Northeast Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market, the Nob Hill Growers Market, the Downtown Growers Market, and the ABQ Uptown Growers Markets @ ABQ Uptown and Presbyterian Hospital. abqmarkets.org
Hot Chili Days, Cool Mountain Nights
August 16 – 18, Saturday cook-off at 9am – 4pm Brandenburg Park, Red River, New Mexico
Herb and Lavender Fair
Includes the New Mexico State University Green Chile Championship, Lone Star BBQ Society cook-off, live music and other cook-off categories. Music venues will be located throughout the town and along the Red River. 1-877-754-1708, or contact Info@redriver.org.
July 28, 10am El Rancho de Las Golondrinas, La Cienega Herb garden tours, lavender and herb product vendors, lectures on cultivating lavender and hands-on activities. golondrinas.org
Native Foods & Native Seeds August 25, 10am Hubbell House, Albuquerque
Kitchen Sink Stories: Food Photography and Recipe Writing Workshop August 8th, 9am – 3pm Los Poblanos Inn, Albuquerque
2nd Annual Kitchen Garden & Coop Tour July 29, 9am – 1pm Santa Fe
Hosted by Edible Santa Fe and Homegrown New Mexico, visit seven local gardens and discuss the features with the homeowners. See great examples of solar systems, water catchment systems, bee hives, chicken coops. Ticket prices are $35 at Brown Paper Tickets. homegrownnewmexico.org
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Learn the art of writing recipes from the people behind Canal House, a design and culinary studio that publishes an annual series of seasonal cookbooks, Canal House Cooking, as well as a captivating website offering hungry readers drool-worthy photography. In this four-hour class, Canal House co-founders Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton will guide you as you practice your craft by re-writing recipes provided, then you’ll spend time shooting to learn how to snap that perfect pic. Seats are limited. $195 per person. For registration information: www.kitchensinkstories.com
Learn about native foods from the Rio Grande Valley and cultivation methods. Also, hear about seed saving techniques and learn the basics of how to preserve your own seeds for next season. Free. osbackyardfarming.wordpress.com
For more events, please check our events calendar at www.ediblesantafe.com
Cooking Class: Artisanal Cocktails August 9, 2pm – 5:30 pm Los Poblanos Inn, Albuquerque
Mixology taught by Chef Jonathan Perno and his team. lospoblanos.com
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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012
edible Santa Fe is seeking ad sales reps
Do you have a passion for the local, sustainable food movement?
For more information, call 727.7800.
Do you have proven sales experience? Join the Edible Santa Fe team as an ad sales rep. For more information email us at info@ediblesantafe.com edible Santa Fe 路 Summer 2012
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Natural Birthing Center
sergio salvador | photography
505.404.0854 |
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last bite
Zucchini By Lee Lee • Haiku by Peter Leonard
Zucchini through the growing season: A bee pollinates the flower, the pollinated flower grows a zucchini, Thatcher Gray enjoys eating a rather large zucchini, harvested before the plant succumbed to the first heavy freeze.
For pollination Many bees are essential Pesticides kill them
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1 bottle 1 cup 2
Sauvignon Blanc or Dry White Wine St-Germain Fresh Peaches*
5-6
Fresh Strawberries*
6
Fresh Raspberries*
1 small bunch
Fresh White Grapes*
Stir ingredients in a pitcher or carafe. Allow fruit to soak in the mixture for 15 minutes (or longer, if desired). Serve in an ice-filled glass, then telephone your physician and regale him with stories of your exemplary fruit consumption. *Merely suggestions - be creative!
Located in the North Valley in the Village of Los Ranchos, Casa RondeĂąa Winery continues the timeless tradition of making award-winning, hand-crafted wines. We invite you to experience our dedication to excellence, quality and hospitality all the while basking in the surroundings of the most beautiful vineyard in the Southwest. Our tasting room is open to the public 7 days a week. Join us by our tranquil duck pond for a glass of wine and be prepared to be inspired and transported to a time gone by.
733 Chaves Rd NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM 87107 casarondena.com • 505-344-5911