edible Santa Fe Fall 2011

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

Fall 2011

eSANTA FE"

LBUQl1ERQl1E To TAOS

il piatto ~~

ouse Kitchen 8L Trip to Italy in The Heart ifSanta Fe

UPCOMING FALL EVENTS SEPTEMBER

A

19 THRU SEPTEMBER 25 :

WEEK OF CASTELLO BANFI

The wines if Castello Barifi represent the fruit continual pursuit

if our if excellence in the art if winemakinB'

Critically acclaimed by the top Buides in Italy and internationally, Castello Barifi has sparked a worldwide renaissanceJor the Brand wines if Tuscany.

2ND WEDNESDAY OF EVERY MONTH: SLOW DRINK SANTA FE Slow Food Santa Fe &.JI Piatto come tOBether to celebrate and support the diversity and richness

iflocal produce and

inBredients alonB with biodynamic wines and cocktails.

US FOR WEEKLY WINE TASTINGS SPECIALDINNERS

~ BANFI

CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS 2

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

3

SUBSCRIBE

4

WHAT'S FRESH WHAT'S LOCAL: Turkeys

6

PUT EM UP! Infosions by Sherri Brooks Vinton

8

COOKING FRESH Harvest in a Bowlby Amy White

10

DIY Sausage by Lorelei Kellog

12

NATIVE EDIBLES Tepary Beans by Lois Ellen Frank

34

PEOPLE WHO FEED US John Garlisch

by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

38

SOUTHWEST GARDENS Seasonal landscaping

by Christie Green

40

BREWHAUS 'Burque's New Brews by Brad Kraus

42

LIQUID ASSETS Better with Bitters by Kate Gerwin

43

EAT LOCAL GUIDE

46

CALENDAR

48

LAST BITE: Emotional Eating by Elizabeth Grant Thomas

FEATURES 14

CONSCIOUS EATER Buying meat the local way

by Sharon Leach

19

HONEYMOON IN THE FOOD SHED UNM students summer road trip by Bruce T. Milne and Jessica Rowland

21

The 4 R's Reading, 'Riting, 'Rithmatic and Revolution Foods.

by Catherine Dry

26

COOKING WITH KIDS by Catherine Dry

30

BACK OF THE HOUSE The magic o/food and art at the legendary C'afe Pasqual's by Andrea Feucht

SPECIAL ONLINE FEATURES Local food and garden events calendar updated weekly Amy white's weekly recipe every Friday

Photos: Cover and this page by Sergio Salvador

MEAT MATTERS

p.14

letter from the editor PUBLISHER / EDITOR IN CHIEF: Kate Manchester

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

MANAGING EDITOR: Sharon Leach

CONTRIBUTORS Catherine Dry, Andrea Feucht, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, Lois Ellen Frank, Kate Gerwin, Christie Green, Lorelei Kellogg, Brad Kraus, Sharon Leach, Deborah Madison, Bruce Milne, Jessica Rowland, Elizabeth Grant Thomas, Sherry Brooks Vinton, Amy White

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO US!

Deborah Madison, Lorelei Kellogg, Amy White, Christie Green

Five years ago this fall I published my first issue ofEdible Santa Fe, and we're proud and happy that given all the ups and downs of the economy, that we are alive and well.

Lois Ellen Frank

DESIGN AND LAYOUT

Edible magazines are the reflection of what's happening on the ground in local food in each of the communities we serve, and so much has changed in our own local food shed in the last five years. When I started the magazine, my intention was to get more people involved in the conversation around local food and food issues, and I can say with certainty that we have achieved that and then some. Of course I wasn't the only one pushing this conversa-

Sergio Salvador

WEB Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

tion; organizations like Farm to Table and the Santa Fe Alliance have put local food squarely in the center of their

PHOTOGRAPHY

missions. Farm to Table works tirelessly to improve marketing opportunities for farmers and ranchers, coordinates

Jennifer Esperanza, Lois Ellen Frank,

food and ag policy initiatives, and educates children and adults about the importance of supporting local agri-

Wes Naman, Kate Russell, Sergio

culture. The Santa Fe Alliance, committed to the health of the local economy has made food an integral part of

Salvador, Carole Topalian, Sarah

their work, with programs that get local foods into local restaurants, education and research that puts local food

Wentzel-Fisher

at the center of a healthy, vibrant local economy. The Governor's Climate Change Advisory group report issued in December 2006 sought to address carbon emissions from agriculture by setting a goal of 25% locally produced

ADVERTISING Kate Manchester, 505-212-0791

and consumed food by 2020. Dreaming New Mexico explored the Big Picture of the state's food and farming exhaustively: NM agro-ecoregions, value chains for existing and new crops, foodshed and local economy potential,

CONTACT US:

cultural legacy of cuisines and foods, the legacy of food insecurity and poor nutritional health, and have created a

551 W. Cordova Road #511

roadmap to get us there by 2020. La Montanita Coop was and still is a pioneer in the local retail food scene. Not

Santa Fe, NM 87505

ouly are they a model for co-ops allover the country, they work quietly and effectively on numerous projects in

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local communities to help connect farmers to consumers and to create solutions for the gaps that exist in the value

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chain from ground to plate. MRCOG Agricultural Collaborative in Albuquerque is committed to identifYing the

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current and potential contributions of agriculture to the local economy; and does a wonderful job of education and

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public outreach with the goal of maximizing economic potential oflocal agriculture. And that's just the tip of the

505-212-0791 or

iceberg, there are at least a dozen more groups involved in this kind ofwork around our state, and this conversation

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has become mainstream.

The local food movement has gained enormous momentum in the last five years as people everywhere have begun

We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or e-mail us at INFO@EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

to realize the role that a localized food system plays in a healthy, vibrant local economy. That without farms or farmers, there is no food. Our mission has always been to engage the reader by celebrating the people who feed us - the

edible Santa Fe takes pride in providing

local farmer, local cheese maker, local rancher or che£ Our hope has always been that by introducing you to these

its subscribers with fast, friendly, small

good people that you would become an advocate for them and our local foodshed - and vote with your forks. We

town service. edible Santa Fe is pub-

thank you for being part of this celebratory conversation around local food for the last five years; we raise a glass to

lished quarterly, spring, summer, fall and winter, by edible Santa Fe, Inc.

you and are looking forward - with anticipation - to the next five!

Distribution is throughout Central and Northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $22 annu-

Kate Manchester, Editor

twi'='=e,. face book.

ally. No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2011 All rights reserved.

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Fall 2011

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Because you support our mission, and you'll never miss a delicious issue! Demand always exceeds supply, but this is your guarantee that we'll deliver each beautiful issue to your mailbox.

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Give yourself, or someone you love, the gift of edible Santa Fe.We'li make sure you never miss a single mouth watering issue!

Fill out the form and mail with a check to : edible Santa Fe, 551 W. Cordova Rd. #51 I, Santa Fe, NM 87505 Or, subscribe online at www.ediblesantafe.com *To all existing subscribers: if you have subscribed in the last 8 months, you will receive another year of Edible Santa Fe for no additional charge.

Name - - - - - - - - - - - - - . :..::0::=- - - - Address ___________________________ City - - - - -:::.....--------:-----State Zip - - - - - - - - - - - - like a one year subscription D (5I would issues) to edible Santa Fe. I have enclosed a payment of $22.

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what's fresh, what's local

Talk Turkey La Mom.1nltCl, vv nok roods, aNi Kt e r '.., F.lfr 1 ~tort'i will .111 b<'ve fw;b. loul turkey; ~or 1han:\.~giving Or you un order d f~erit<,ge b rd fron ~oll{) Re.11 or '":""'alus W''1d, but order bdort the L.,t of November as '11ost blrJs are ,>poke 1 tor by trer:

Lmbudo

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~raJitional

Organics FmbuJo

White tJrkey,>, Cert ned

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BroaJ

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l'olio Real Socorro' ~ leritage breed turkeys, hen.:h Lahel ROJgt: dnd Amer (,n (hlLkens, guinn towl ~atJrdavs at t Ie Santa .'drmers' ~arktt from 7 to noon o~ pol.ore<'l(!Lq wm polloreal.com

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Tufus Wmd Ranl-h Pentage Meat." G.1li<;tec)' Kio CranJe Wild .1nd ~tanJarJ Bronz~' turkcy,; dvaildble for IhaI. I.."givir g (' Id C lri..,tma<;. ,l<'(e 0 L·e"', e<'r'y~ taluswindranch.com or La!.

5CO; SO L 4910.

Heritage

Fo()d~

(1SA will h Ih a varit ty of ~Ieritage breed bad.:;

frozen and .1vailable 'or for more ir fo.

shipp.n~,

"\ hit heritagefoodsusa.com

VEGGIE ArugUi Beans Beets Beet Greens Black-Eyed Peas Bok Choy Broccoli Brussels Sprouts Cabbage Carrots

CHILES

Collards Corn Eggplant Fennel Garlic Gourds Green Chile Herbs Glore Jerusalem Artichokes Jujubes Kale Kholrabi

Leeks Sturdy Lettuces Mushrooms Mustard Greens Okra Onions Peppers (A Rainbow!)

Potatoes Pumpkins Radishes Red Chile Salad Greens

Shishito's Spinach Sugar Snap Pe s Fall and Winter Squash Sweet Pot toes Swiss Chard Tomatoes Tomatillos Turnips Zucchini

Chokecherries Figs Grapes

Jujubes Melons Pears

Rhubarb Watermelons

Chicken, Duck and Turkey Eggs Jellies, Jams and Syrups

Mushrooms Pickles Pecans, Pinon, Pistachio, Chicos Dried

Beans Roasted Chiles, Chile Powders, Dried Chiles

FRUIT Apples Berries Cantaloupe

OTHER Goat Cheeses and Milk Beef, Bison, Chicken, Duck, Guinea Hen, Turkey, edible SANTA FE • Fal12011

4

www.ediblesantafe.com

Farm to Resta ura nt yqect a program of the santa fe alliance

Q:

Why dine with a Santa Fe Alliance Farm to Restaurant participant?

A: FRESHNESS! The average number of hours from harvest to restaurant delivery is 36 hours. Picked today. delivered tomorrow!

For more information and a current list of participants:

santafealliance.comlfarmtorestaurant 2011 Farm to Restaurant Participants in Santa Fe Amavi Andiamo!

Annapurna's Atrisco Cafe & Ba r Aztec Cafe Azur Back Road Pizza BO DY of Sa nta Fe Bon Appetit Catering

Junction La Boca La Casa Sena La Choza La Montanita Coop Deli Louie's Corner Cafe Luminaria Restaurant Plaza Cafe Southside

Chocolate Maven Bakery & Cafe

Real Food Nation

Cowgirl BBQ & Western Grill

Red Mesa Cuisine

Dinner for Two Dulce Bakery Flying Star Cafe Harry's Roadhouse II Piatto Italian Farmhouse Kitchen Inn of the Anasazi

www.LPODelivery.com

Joe's Restaurant

Jambo Cafe

Ristra Santa Fe School of Cooking Second Street Brewery The Shed The Teahouse Tree House Pastry Shop & Cafe Walter Burke Catering

put fem up

INFUSED WITH FLAVOR

By Sherri Brooks Vinton

I

nfusions are a quick, easy and delicious way to capture seasonal flavors. I find them particularly helpful for using up the late-season bits and bobs from the market-a few of the last stone fruits, cool-crop raspberries, grapes, apples, pears, and herbs-that might otherwise be caught in Jack Frost's clutches. Make your infusions now by steeping fresh produce, herbs and/or spices in spirits or vinegar and these tasty concoctions will offer a burst of fresh-from-the farm flavor to enjoy for months or give as holiday gins.

Infused Vinegars Infused vinegars are a little turn of kitchen magic-you start with a pantry staple, add a little imagination (and a few treats from the farm or garden) and wind up with a jewel-colored, full-flavored elixir. They make stellar vinaigrettes, of course, but can also be used to perk up the flavor oflong cooking dishes such as stews and braises and bring a surprising kick of flavor to quick refrigerator pickles and homemade mayonnaise. But my favorite way to enjoy them is to add a sweetened splash to sparkling water to create a modern version of the colonial thirst quencher, "Shrub."

Infusing Spirits Home-infused spirits not only taste great, they let you claim a little corner of the cran cocktail movement for your very own. Create custom combinations that mimic your favorite top-shelf tipple or let your taste buds be your guide to new flavor sensations.

INFUSED VINEGAR RECIPE

You can infuse any liquor you like, but it's best to stick to those that are at least 80 proof-any less and you run the risk of fermenting your fruit, rather than infusing it.

You want to use a light or neutrally flavored vinegar that won't overpower your flavoring agent-distilled white or apple cider vinegar make nice blank slates. Berries and herbs are popular and versatile vinegars but don't stop there-try peach, pear, chili, plum and more.

When it comes to flavoring your hootch, look to your market basket for inspiration-peaches, plums, apples, pears, chilies (I have a friend who swears by celery!)-it's all good. Try vodka with chilies, brandy or rum with peaches, gin with plums, rum with cranberries, tequila or vodka with citrus, just to name a few.

1 quart glass jar with lid 1-2 C. berries or chopped fruit, 3-4 sprigs fresh herbs or combination 1 t. to 1 T. whole dried spices (optional)

INFUSED SPIRIT RECIPE

1 pint vinegar (preferably distilled white or cider)

Aner straining out the fruit, you can sip infusions chilled and up, use as the base for a custom cocktail, or add sugar to the infusion to conjure up a cordial.

Sterilize the jar by submerging it in boiling water for 10 minutes.

Add flavorings. Bringvinegar just to a boil and pour into jar. Cover jar with a piece of waxed or parchment paper to prevent lid corrosion. Screw on lid. Give the jar a good shake and set it in a cool, dark place for at least a few days and up to one week, shaking daily.

Strain vinegar through a fine mesh sieve. Return vinegar to the cleaned, re-sterilized jar or other decorative food-grade bottle. Vinegar keeps in a cool, dark place for 3-4 months or refrigerate for 6-8 months.

1 quart jar with lid Flavoring agents such as 1-2 cups berries or chopped fruit, 1-2 chiles, 3-4 sprigs fresh herbs, dried spices or a combination 1 pi nt 80 proof spi rits

Y2 cup sugar (optional) Combine flavorings and alcohol in a clean quart jar. Screw on lid. Give the jar a good shake and set it in a cool, dark place for a few days and up to a week or two, shaking daily until you reach the flavor intensity you like. Strain the spirits through a fine mesh sieve, pressing on solids to release all of their juices, and then through a coffee filter to remove any sediment. Return spirits to the cleaned jar or other decorative food grade bottle. Add sugar, if using, and shake to dissolve. Spirits keep in a cool, dark place for up to a year, flavor improves with time.

SHRUB A tasty, refreshing way to enjoy your infused vinegars.

1 cup infused vinegar

Y2-1 cup sugar Seltzer (or club soda)

In a small saucepan, warm vinegar and sugar, stirring to dissolve sugar. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Add two tablespoons of syrup to a tall glass filled with ice, top with seltzer.

MAKES

Sherri Brooks Vinton wants you to "preserve" local agriculture with your food choices.

Her writing, talks and hands-on workshops teach fellow eaters how to find, cook and preserve local, seasonal, farm friendly food. She is currently touring with her latest book, Put 'em Up! To jind out more, visit her: www.sherribrooksvinton.com

8 DRINKS

edible SANTA FE â&#x20AC;˘ Fall 2011

6

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Albuquerque October 8, 12 to 6 2nd Annual New Mexico Brewfest presented by Local- IQ. Spanish Pavilion, State Fair Grounds. nmbrewfestcom

October 9, lito 4 Local Food Festival and Field Day, Gutierrez-Hubbell House,Albuquerque. localfoodnm.org October 15, 1 to 7 Hops and Harvest - ABQ Downtown Growers Market celebrates 15 Years at Marble Brewery. downtowngrowers.com

Santa Fe Octber 13, 5:30 to 7:30 Cook with the Chef Showdown at the Santa Fe Farmers' Market Pavilion George Gundry (Atrisco) vs. Patrick Lambert (Cowgirl BBQ). santafealliance.com October 15, lito 12 Local Baking Competition!

Home bakers showcase their skills with a dessert featuring local ingredients at the Santa Fe Farmers Market Pavillion.

santafealliance.com

~=-

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SANTA FE LocalFood ALBU~ER~E 10 TAOS

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,... ,, ~

SANTA FE ALLIANCE community advocacy local economy

Home Grown & d ebl NEWNlEXIm e t eSANTAFE THANK YOU FOR MAKING THE

IST ANNUAL KITCHEN GARDEN &COOP TOUR A

ROLLICKING SUCCESS!

Special thanks to our friends & sponors: WHOLE FOODS 100'S DINER IHE FEED BIN ELDORADO GARDEN TOUR SANGRE DE CRISTO BEE KEEPERS' Assoc.

MASTER GARDENERS PAUL NAVROT OUR 6 HOME OWNERS AND OUR 60 AWESOME VOLUNTEERS!

See you next year! homegrownnewmexico.org www.ediblesantafe.com

ediblesontofe.com 7

edible SANTA FE· Fal12011

•

harvest In a bowl

BY AMY WHITE • PHOTOS BY SERGIO SALVADOR

A

s the days and nights grow cooler, everyone loves to cozy up with a warm bowl of soup. A great soup is a thing of beauty, and these four hearty soups are a celebration of fall vegetables, packed with flavor and nutrition.

SPINACH SALAD SOUP Spinach soup topped with spinach salad! Gorgeous, delicious, and ultra-healthy, this recipe is adapted from Mr. Sunday's Soups by Lorraine Wallace.

Spinach is such a cold-hardy crop, and it's a great winter staple.

FOR THE

SouP

4 T. olive oil 1 large onion, finely chopped 8 cloves garlic 2 t. dried rosemary

2 10-oz. packages frozen chopped spinach 2 T. Dijon mustard

Y2 C. half-and-half (optional) Salt and freshly ground black pepper FOR THE SALAD

3 T. extra-virgin olive oil 1 T. freshly squeezed lemon juice 1;4 t. salt

Freshly ground black pepper 2 C. loosely packed baby spinach leaves

2 t. dried oregano

2 C. loosely packed watercress or arugula leaves

2 t. dried thyme

3 handfuls of grape tomatoes, cut in half

2 quarts chicken or vegetable stock

4 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

2 large russet potatoes, peeled and

Heat the oil in a large stockpot over medium flame. Add the onion, garlic and herbs,

chopped into bite-size pieces

edible SANTA FE • Fall 2011

8

e

and cook a few minutes until just softened.

Add stock and potatoes, and simmer 5 to 10 minutes until the potatoes are just tender. Stir in the spinach and cook until the soup returns to a boil. Turn off the heat and let cool slightly. Puree with an immersion blender, or in batches in a food processor or blender. Return the soup to the pot, add the mustard and half-and-half, then adjust the seasoning as desired. Keep it warm over low heat while you make the salad.

Whisk together the oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Add the greens and toss to coat evenly. Top each bowl of soup with a generous heap of salad, a few tomato halves and a few curls of cheese shaved with a vegetable peeler. Serves 6 to B.

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Sausage, Cabbage and White Bean Soup

Harira

Turnip and Apple Soup

This Moroccan soup is traditionally served during

Turnips are one of those vegetables many people

Using red cabbage in this filling soup is beautiful,

the Muslim holy month of Ramadan. The stock

have trouble learning to like. This is an excellent way

it's also high in Vitamin C and antioxidants, and

for this soup is made by cooking lamb shanks in

to use them, because the apples, nutmeg and thyme

it's available fall through the winter. Many people don't like cabbage because they've only had it

a crock pot all day, but it will be good if you take

smooth out the turnips' sharp flavor. This soup is

shortcuts like using stew meat and canned stock,

good hot or cold, as a light appetizer or accompani-

boiled or steamed, but browning it brings out its

and even canned chickpeas. Many families add rice

ment to a grilled cheese sandwich made with sharp

wonderful nutty flavors. For the prettiest soup

or vermicelli as well. Some like it thick, while others

cheddar. Garnishes are key here-apple slices,

and highest vitamin content, saute the cabbage

leave it brothy. Recipes vary widely, so feel free to

croutons, cheese, crumbled bacon, toasted nuts or

and add it just before serving. For truly great sau-

experiment.

a chive pesto really make this soup shine.

sages, seek out local sausage makers, such as Joe

2 T. olive oil

2 T. butter

S. Sausage, Alpine Sausage Kitchen, or Red Mesa Meats. If you prefer not to cook with wine, substitute using a can of tomatoes.

21amb shanks (about 1% pounds total)

3 leeks

2 celery stalks with leaves, finely chopped

3 shallots, minced

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 t. dried thyme (better yet, lemon thyme) % t. ground nutmeg

2 T. olive oil

2 T. tomato paste

4 sausages (French garlic sausages, or chicken and apple are great) 1 medium onion, chopped 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 T. fresh thyme 1Y2 C. dry white wine

% t. turmeric

1% pounds turnips, chopped

1 t. ground cinnamon 1 t. red chile powder 1 T. ground ginger

3 apples, chopped 1 C. chicken or vegetable stock Y2 C. cream (optional)

2 t. kosher salt

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 t. pepper

2 15% oz. cans cannellini or other white

2 quarts water

Slice the leeks thinly, swirl them in a bowl of cold water, then let the dirt sink to the bottom and the leeks float to the top. Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat.

Cook the leeks and shallots with nutmeg and thyme until just soft, 3 to 4 minutes.

Add turnips, apples and stock-don't be tempted to add more liquid, because the apples will release plenty. Cover and simmer until tender but not mushy, about 30-40 minutes. Puree with an immersion blender, or in batches in a food processor or blender, adding water to thin the soup as desired. Season with salt and pepper, and stir in cream if desired. Garnish creatively.

Serves 6 to 8.

bean

2 large tomatoes, chopped, or 1 can (28

1 C. chicken stock 2 T. butter 1 lb. cabbage

Y4 C. green lentils, washed and picked over 1 C. dry chickpeas (garbanzo beans),

Salt and freshly ground pepper

washed and picked over

1% C. coarse bread crumbs

% C. flour + 1 cup water, or 2 eggs

Heat oil in a wide stockpot. Brown sausages well over medium heat, and set aside. Add onion, garlic and thyme to the pot, and cook until just softened. Slice the sausages into bite-size chunks and return them to the pot. If you have the time, cook a little longer to brown the cut sides of the sausage and caramelize the onions a bit. Add wine and beans to the pot. Simmer until the wine is reduced by about half, then add the stock.

1 bunch cilantro or parsley, finely chopped 1 lemon, cut into wedges

Quarter and core the cabbage, and slice crosswise into 114 inch ribbons . Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the cabbage, a pinch of salt and a splash of wine. Toss to coat with oil and cook until soft and slightly browned. Stir gently into the soup.

Add a little more butter to the skillet if necessary. Add the bread crumbs and fry until golden, then season them with salt and pepper. Gently mash some of the beans to thicken the stew. Adjust seasoning as desired. Top each bowl of soup with bread crumbs. Serves 6 to 8.

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oz.) crushed tomatoes

Heat the oil in a large stock pot. Brown the lamb shanks on all sides. Add the celery, onion, tomato paste, and spices. Fry for a few minutes, until the tomato paste is bubbling and the onions have begun to soften.

Add the water and tomatoes to deglaze the pot. Transfer to a crock pot and add the chickpeas and lentils. Cook on low heat for about 8 hours, until everything is tender and the stock is flavorful.

Remove the meat from the lamb shanks, chop coarsely, and return to the pot. Shake flour with water and add to the soup in a thin stream, stirring constantly, until the soup is thickened to your liking. (You may not need to use it all.) If you prefer to use eggs for thickening, beat them and add in a thin stream, stirring constantly. Add the cilantro or parsley and cook 5 to 10 minutes more. Garnish with lemon wedges. Serves 6 to 8.

9

Blogger Amy White is totally obsessed with vegetables and fruits. Amys recipes can be found every Friday at ediblesantafe.com, and on her blog, www.veggieobsession.com.

edible DIY

SAUSAGE

BY LORELEI KELLOGG

A

nywhere that people butcher and eat animals, it seems that sausage is an obvious end result.

Whether cured, smoked, dried or simply cooked fresh, sausage can be found in nearly every cuisine.

Sausage-making may seem intimidating, but is really quite simple. Not only does it allow people to use scraps of meat and fat that might otherwise be wasted, but through curing, drying and smoking, sausage can provide storage for a highly desirable nutrient resource.

For now, we'll look at only those types of sausage that use ground meat and fat for the filling. Specialty sausages, such as liverwurst or blood sausage, require many more steps and can be much harder to create successfully. Additionally, cured sausages will not be covered as the curing process needs to be done with complete accuracy in order to avoid potential illness.

For ease of making basic sausage, you will need a meat grinder. You can dice and mix the meat by hand, but may wind up with a less successful product. Some standing mixers have meat grinder attachments, but stand-alone grinders will do the job very well. If you are making link sausages, you will need a stuffing tool and specialty casings as well, .

edible SANTA FE â&#x20AC;˘

Fall 2011

The key to good sausage is the proper balance of fat and spices, and you can modify this to suit your personal taste. As a general rule, the kinds of sausage we are familiar with here in North America has between 30 and 50 percent fat. For best results, use a food scale to get the proportions correct, if you don't have one dry measures are less accurate but will work.

For pork sausage, the best fat to use is fatback.

Fatback is pretty much what it sounds like; fat from the back of a pig. Sausage makers prefer it because of the consistency. Unlike leaflard, pork belly or bacon, fatback is a harder, more solid fat that renders nicely and is less greasy than its softer counterparts. This leads to a flavorful and juicy sausage rather than a greasy, heavy one.

As for spices, these can be as broad as your imagination will allow. There are some standard combinations that yield more traditional flavors such as breakfast sausage or Italian sausage (see below), but I recommend experimenting. Fresh herbs are best if you have access to them, but dried spices also work well. When using leaner meats, such as chicken or game, be sure to increase your fat content to a higher percentage

10

and mix thoroughly to create a juicy, rather than dry, sausage. Begin with both your meat and your fat nearly frozen. The reason for this is that the heat from the grinding process can change the texture of your ingredients for the worse, if you start cold, this will be less of a problem. You will also want to grind the spices into the sausage, the easiest way to do this is to start with cubed portions of both meat and fat in a large bowl, then use your hands to mix the cold meat and fat with the spice mixture of your choice.

Once the meat is ground, keep your sausage loose to make patties or turn it into links. Link sausage requires a few more steps. You will have to find casings (resources below), and you will need a sausage extruder or stuffer tool. While I have seen professionals stuff casing by hand, I wouldn't recommend attempting this your first go around as it is much more difficult than they make it look!

Traditionally, link sausage was made using the cleaned intestines of the animal slaughtered. Hog casings are the most common and can be purchased from a butcher, or you can buy collagen casings online. I prefer hog casings as they have a better consistency and flavor. Generally speaking,

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animal casings need to be soaked in warm water for 30 minutes to one hour to achieve maximum flexibility and the desired texture. Any synthetic casings bought online should be accompanied by directions for use Homemade sausage can be stored refrigerated for 3 to 4 days or can be frozen for long term storage. When cooking homemade link sausage, I prefer to parboil the sausage first in order to retain moisture as natural casings can toughen if cooked using a dry method.

Pork Maple Breakfast Sausage 1 lb. stew pork, chilled and cut into Y2- inch pieces 14 to Yilb. fat back, chilled and cut into Y2 -inch pieces

Y2 t. ground pepper 1 t. coarse salt 1 t. fresh sage chopped* 1 t. fresh th'yme chopped* Y2 t. fresh rosemary chopped* 14 t. nutmeg 1-2 T. pure maple syrup

*/f using dried spices, use half the measurements.

Italian Pork Sausage 1 lb. cubed pork, chilled 1 t. toasted fennel seed, ground

Y2 t. black pepper 1 T. fresh parsley Y2 t. fresh garlic 1 t. salt 14 -1 t. red pepper flakes (optional) Grind the meat with the spices and let sit, refrigerated, for at least 3 hours before using in order to allow the flavors to blend.

Notes: Pork, lamb, venison, moose, rabbit and beef sausage should be cooked until the internal temperature reaches 160'F. Chicken, duck, goose and turkey sausage should be cooked until it reaches 165'F. Hog casings can be purchased locally at Whole Foods Market or online at www.askthemeatman.com or www.sausagemaker.com.

Fatback can also be found at a variety of local butchers, however availability may vary, especially if the butcher makes sausage in house.

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Truffle oils and salt Delicious appetizers Spreads, spices and vinegars Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oils and so much more!

native edibles

tepary beans STORY, RECIPE AND PHOTOGRAPHY

BY LOIS ELLEN FRANK

C

alled bawi by the Tohono O'odham people of southern Arizona, tepary beans (Phaseolus acutifolius) have sustained Native communities for generations. Actually, some ethnobotanists believe that cultivation of the bean began approximately 6000 to 8000 years ago. These resilient plants are one of the most heat and drought-tolerant annual legume crops in the Southwest, if not the world, making them perfectly suited for the desert environment. The bean plants are able to mature under a type of floodplain farming utilizing only the summer monsoon rains, and they can grow with minimal water in other areas.

The same adaptations that allow these food crops to grow in the harsh desert conditions of the American Southwest also make them a very healthy bean, one that is extremely high in protein and low on the glycemic index (41-44). These little beans are a perfect food for people prone to diabetes, and a great energy food for athletes and dieters. They help to regulate blood sugar levels by acting as a "slow-release food:' Full of fiber, they have a delicious rich and nutty flavor. Tepary beans have a higher protein content (23-30 percent) than pinto, kidney and navy beans, and have higher levels of oil, calcium, magnesium, zinc, phosphorus and potassium. Nearly every nutritional index is higher for this type of bean. On the other side, they are lower in polyunsaturated fat and in anti-enzymatic compounds, which make common beans hard to digest.

Small and oval, somewhat flattish or round, these capable beans vary in color from soft white to speckled brown, reddish-brown or purplebrown.

This sturdy little heirloom bean is experiencing a renewed interest by Native and other communities because of all of its qualities. Slow Food USA has added the bean to their Ark of Taste and is helping to publicize its importance and nutritional benefits.

I use white and brown tepary beans on a regular basis. My favorite way to cook them is slowly, overnight in a crock pot. I place a pound of the beans in approximately two and a half quarts of water, bring them to a boil and then turn the crock pot to low and let them cook overnight. The slow cooking process brings out the sweetness of the bean and makes a delicious broth. In addition, the next morning the wonderful aroma of these little legumes is wafting around my house, and I have perfectly cooked beans. I cook one crock pot of white tepary beans, which have a slightly sweet flavor and one crock pot of brown tepary beans, which have a rich, earthy nutty flavor, to make a bean hummus. You can serve this hearty hummus either as an appetizer with any flat bread like pita, tortilla bread, or with blue corn chips, or as a lunch entree in a sandwich accompanied by a salad.

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edible SANTA FE â&#x20AC;˘ Fall 2011

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Slow Food USA has added the bean to

Brown or White Tepary Bean Hummus

their Ark of Taste and is helping to

1 lb. cooked brown or white tepary beans

1 T. olive oil 2 T. freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 112 t. toasted dried Mexican oregano 1 t. toasted ground cumin 1 t. fresh parsley, finely chopped 1 t. New Mexico red chile powder Y2 t. chipotle chile powder 112 t. salt

publicize its importance and nutritional benefits.

1;4 t. freshly ground black pepper

Toast the Mexican oregano and cumin in a dry saute pan over medium heat until lightly browned. Remove from the pan and set aside. Process all the ingredients in a food processor or blender until smooth. Place in a bowl and chill in the refrigerator until cold. For a two-toned hummus, repeat the process with your second color of tepary bean, place in a bowl and chill until cold. Once the two color tepary beans have chilled sufficiently, place a portion of each in the same bowl for a two-tone hummus. Both colors taste great so you can try one or the other or make both.

Top with the red chile powder, chipotle chile powder and chopped fresh parsley. Serve with your favorite flat bread, crackers or chips, or spread on bread to make a delicious sandwich. Makes about 2 cups tepary bean hummus of either color. Serves 4-6.

classic brew

SPECIAL EVENTS ~

Lois Ellen Frank, Ph.D. is a Santa Fe, New Mexico based Native American Chef, Native American joods historian, culinary anthropologist, author and photographer. She is a jeatured instructor jocusing on Native American Foods oj the Southwest Indian Nations at the Santa Fe School oj Cooking, and is chej/owner, along with Native Chej Walter Whitewater oj the Dine Nation, oj Red Mesa Cuisine.

Q

FIELD TO FORK SERIES Autumn Dining, Sept. 22'd & 23,d

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Class - One Pot Cooking Oct. 13'h, 2 pm

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Coulter ~~ Brooks

One Skei n Knitting Class Sept. 18,h, 100m

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For details, reservations, & Inn specials visit www.lospob lanos.com or ca ll (505) 344-9267

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How TO Buy LOCAL

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edible SANTA FE·

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BUYING RETAIL

If you're not reaoy' fino out about local

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Bison/buffalo. §JmltddlllD~Ill'Iil':·!WSI.~.gJ'Ll:'llIiiml~Ii'I!i~I!bli!l

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Meat

SOARING EAGLE RANCH

Directory

MAYNARD CATTLE COMPANY

RED MESA MEATS

(K<lte j\1".Yfl<1rd)

(fim Whit"ko)

(S"ge <!rId Sh"ne };1Idkno)

260 Cactus Patch Way

7 Avenida Vista Grande B7, #413

PO Box 171, Los Ojos, NM 87551

an edible resource guide

Las Cruces, NM 88007, (575)-644-9845

Santa Fe, NM 87508, (575) 421-4255

(575) 588-7424

kmaynard0>ziancr.com

landlogic@hughes.net

info@naturalsteak.com www.naturalsteak.com

CERROS DE TAOS GRASSFED BEEF

(Tony Bemon) PO Box 2848 Taos, NM 87571, (575) 770-8198 hension l@)newmcx.coll1

100 percent grassfed and finished Black Angus beef for quarter sales and individual cuts. Pickup at processor or delivery available to SF and environs for large orders. No hormones, antibiotics or other supplementation.

Order by phone or email.

CIMARRON ANGUS

(Bill ,lnd Bdr/}ie Goebel) RRI, Box 41 Maxwell, NM 87728, (575) 375-2972 bgoebel@bacavalley.com Bill, Barbie, and Ben Goebel raise bect~ lamb, and chicken for quarter sales direct to the consumer. Beef and lamb are 100 percent grass fed on native and irrigated pasture while chickens are raised on green grass

I11mc-Ilc0)zianet,col11

100 percent grass fed and grass-finished

All locally-born and raised New Mexico

beeHor quarter sales and all cuts; also Heri-

Prefer email orders. CSDA-certified, NM

grassfed USDA-inspected beef, from

tage pork from Hampshire and Yorkshire

Organic Scottish Highland grass fed beef

multi-generational New Mexico ranches.

breeds. Over a dozen types of sausage, in-

Holistic range managed. Family packs and

Custom quarters and sides available, or by

cluding green chile, fresh and smoked kil-

quarter sales; orders from 10 lb. up to whole.

the pound. Available at Silver City Food

basa, pork or beefchorizo, and Iralian. Sold

Delivered periodically to SF location, ABQ,

Co-op, Mountain View Market and Tou-

at Santa Fe, EI Dorado, Los Alamos and

Taos, Espanola, Farmington and other. Sold

can ;V(arket (Las Cruces), Nature's Pantry

ABQ downtown fanners' markets, and La

at Espanola Farmers' Market. Also sold

(Alamogordo), Little Sprout (TorC), Wild

Montanita Co-op has sausage. Also halves

at The Mystery Store in Chama, 575-764-

Herb (Ruidoso) and Las Cruces Farmers'

and custom orders direct.

1059. Visits and tours by arrangement.

Market.

RIVER CANYON RANCH ORGANIC

SPAHN & FRIENDS BISON RANCH

MOONBEAM RANCH

BEEF

LLC (Cbri,;tia" <I"d Soni" Sp"b,,)

(Jim or Lind" Rm)

(Al,m Lnkey)

Heartland Rd. A36, PO Box 491

61 Moonbeam Ranch Road

HC72 Box 317 Ribera, NM 87560,

Raton, NM 87740,

Edgewood, NM 87051

(50S) 603-8499

(575) 278-2306 or 2316

(50S) 286-0286 or cdl (505) 328-6329

www.rcrorganic.com

spahnandfriends@bacavalley.com www.spahn-friends.com

linda(q)l11oonbeamranch.com

Grassfed and grass-finished CSDA-certi-

www.moonbeamranch.com

fied organic beef Available individually

Bison (buffalo) meat, 100 percent grassfcd,

Grassfed Angus-Charolais beef. ~arter

and in packages at Santa Fe and Corrales

32 percent less calories than bed~ 74 percent

sales available for pick-up at processor.

Farmers' Markets. \Y/holes and halves sold

less fat. USDA-processed cuts available.

Sold out for 2011, selling again in 2012.

directly from ranch.

Family ranch in Trinchera Pass, NM. Available directly from the rancher.

and insects along with scratch grains. Order

POLLO REAL PASTURED POULTRY

lambs July-Sept. Grassfed angus beef sold

(Tmcey Hmnilton mid Tom Delehanty)

(LItÂŤl,; Sal"::;,,r)

out for 2011.

108 Hope Farm Road

PO Box 296, Manassa, CO 81141

(Timothy Wichfancl, CSA Coo,.dilullOl)

Socorro, NM 87801

(719) 843-5264 or (719) 580-5264

369 Montezuma #538 Santa Fe, NM 87501, (50S) 982-7782

DUN HILL RANCH

(Pete Ditman) PO Box 1155, Mile 1, FR 234 Magdalena,!,>:M 87825, (575) 854-2847 sales@dunhillranch.com; www.dunhillranch.com All-natural, grassfed lamb. No grain, wormers, antibiotics

Of

hormones; quarter sales;

also CSDA-inspected variety or individual packages; home ddivery available Socorro to

SALAZAR NATURAL MEATS, INC.

polloreal@q.com; \Vww.pollorael.com

sa les Cq1sa la za rna tu ral meats .com

Poultry CSA, featuring Gourmet French

www.salazarnaturalmeats.com

twichland@taluswindranch.com

Label Rouge, American Cornish Cross

Organic, USDA-inspected, 100 percent

www.taluswindranch.com

Chickens, Heritage Turkeys, guinea fowl

grass fed and finished lamb and beef, beef

Mostly grassfed bed~ lamb and eggs, with

and eggs. Poultry harvested at the f,mn; no

sticks, jerky and other dried meat products.

occasional goat and chicken and a heritage

pesticides, antibiotics or additives. Sold at

\Y/holes, halves and quarter reservations

tu rkey for Thanksgiving; half share receives

Santa Fe and Los Alamos Farmers' Mar-

accepted; custom packages and individual

10-12 Ibs of meat per month with a dozen

kets and La Montanita.

curs sold at Taos Farmer's Market. Member

eggs. Rio Grande and Standard Bronze tur-

~INTANA FARMS

of Sweetgrass Co-op available at La Mon-

keys; Rambouillet, Sourhdown and !'>:avajo

tan ita Food Co-op. Shipping available.

Churro lamb; Angus beef. Sign up now-De-

Espanola, Socorro Farmers' Market.

(Suztlnne QUillttlfitl)

]X RANCH

8927 CR 21, San Pablo, CO 81153

SHEPHERD'S LAMB

(719) 672-0316; (719) 588-8732

(Antonio imd }I,Jolty A1,m::;<!rla,.e,;)

quintana.suzanne@yahoo.colll

PO Box 307, Tierra Amarilla, NM 87525

USDA-certified grassfed !'>:avajo churro

(575) 588-7792

NATURAL MEATS

(Bill a"d Mimi Sidwell) 6237 Hwy 209, Tucumcari, NM 88401 (575) 487-2419 info@leannaturalbeeC:com www.kannaruralbccfcom 100 percem grass fed beef, hormone and antibiotic-free, Longhorn cows and Charolais. Order now for fall harvest, quarter sales and free delivery to meeting points in Albuquerque, Sama Fe, Alamogordo, Las Vegas

TALUS WIND HERITAGE MEATS

lamb, Dexter beef, natural pork & chick-

shepherd@valornet.com

en. Member of Rio Culebra Co-op; quar-

www.organiclanlb.com

ter sales and variety packs available (via the

Navajo Churro and cross-bred organic

co-op). Taos, La Veta and Crestone Farm-

lamb; wholes and halves as well as individ-

ers' Markets. CSA available in Santa Fe for

ual cuts available. \Y/hole or halves available

all products.

by order, also available at Santa Fe and Al-

RANNEY RANCH (N.m(y R<I""ey)

buquerque Farmers' Markets and La Montan ita Co-op.

cember. Contact by email or phone, deliveries arc to set locations in SF and Galisteo; also available at Whole Foods and restaurants in SF. 460-acre Galisteo ranch.

FOR ADDITIONAL INFO:

Southwest Grassfed Livestock Alliance S\Y/G LA (L.wrie Bozl'o) (50S) 231-3467 info@grassfedlivestock.org www.grassfedlivestock.org An alliance of southwest producers, consumers, land managers, conservationists

and other areas. Variety packs and shipping

Box 376 Corona, NM 88318

available.

(916) 844-8218

SIX BAR EIGHT RANCH

ranneyranchCqlgmail.com

(W"lt lv/anhalt)

man, ecological and animal health, and

www.ranneyranch.com

(575) 421-2465

strengthen local agricultural communi-

100 percent grass fed and finished Angus

Grassfed, grain-finished (3 months) beef,

ties by educating producers and the public

and Angus Cross beef Certified by AGA

no antibiotics or hormones. ~arter sales

about the many benefits of grassfed live-

LAMONT'S WILD WEST BUFFALO

(A1onty <lIni Ld",' F",;twnbt) (50S) 869-4438, (505) 252-0141 lamontbuff@msn.com www.lamol1rbuffalo.com Buffalo meat, 100% range fed, controlled herd size, CSDA inspected. Available direct, shipped, or at the Santa Fe Farmers Market year-round.

and researchers that seeks to improve hu-

and also A\y/A (Animal \Y/e1fHe Associa-

and custom cuts available at varying prices;

stock products. S\Y/GLA offers such ser-

tion). \Y/holes and halves available. Family

contact by phone and pick-up order at Mo-

vices local training workshops f(lr ranchers

ranch using holistic range practices.

riarty processor.

and farmers and meat tastings to introduce consumers to grass fed meat.

LOCAL

GRASS-FED BEEF TASTES

BEST! When you buy LOCAL grass-fed beef, you know where it comes from and who raised it.

La Montaiiita Cooperative Distribution Center distributes LOCAL Sweet Grass Co-op beef.

TASTE THE DIFFERENCE!

EILEEN FISHER

142 LINCOLN AVENUE, SANTA FE

foodshed field trip

honeymoon in the food shed

BY BRUCE T. MILNE AND JESSICA ROWLAND. PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRUCE T. MILNE

T

he honeymoon never ended for 14 students and four instructors in the University of New Mexico's Foodshed Field School during June and July. New Mexico's trove of farms, ranches and acequias offered perfect getaways to learn about our state's food systems and how to marry producers with consumers, land with health, and culture with well-being.

For a first date, the field class was introduced to cattle. "By far, my favorite places were the dairy and the slaughterhouse," said communications student Joe Paul Castillo. "Buying local or knowing the farmer definitely changes the kind of food you're eating."

The Collaborative for Foodshed Development at UNM supports professors from ecology, geography, Spanish, architecture, fine arts, communication and engineering and aims to place students on career paths in the local food system. This year, students with interests in sustainability were recruited from environmental planning, geography, secondary education, chemistry, nutrition and Spanish. They wanted to see where food comes from and to weigh the consequences of food production for land and people. With ample support from the USDA, the group visited 27 agricultural venues, drove 2400 miles and spent 10 nights on the road.

Afi:er the honeymoon comes taking care of your partner. "I loved that every single plant looked like it had individual care," said Kelsy Dotson, speaking about her visit to the Taos Pueblo's Red Willow Education Center. "It really brought home to me how important it is to have everybody in the process." The UNM class happily exchanged field labor for lessons. One such lesson introduced the three sisters-corn, squash and beans-a botanical marriage of crops that compliment each other nutritionally, and themselves represent a partnership that supports families past and present, as well as-in the student's vision-into the future.

Pride that comes with agricultural self-determination resonated with the class during a visit to NAPI, the Navajo Agricultural Products Industry outside of Farmington. There, 70,000 acres of irrigated land are in the capable hands of people such as Roselyn Yazzie. Roselyn manages 10,000 acres of pinto beans. Most of these are sold to food producers who demand high quality ingredients. Chances are good that many New Mexicans are eating Navajo-grown beans, corn and potatoes in products made by NAPI customers such as Del Monte, Wal-Mart, and Frito Lay or milk from cows at Creamland dairies that are fed top-notch NAPI alfalfa.

Are bigger farms better? At Los Poblanos Organics' 36-acre South Valley Farm, owner Monte Skaarsgard told the class, "Organic is a progression, [a customer might start with organic products] at Wal-Mart, the next thing you know [they're] going to the farmers' market, or joining a C SA. If we can keep to our ideals on labor, on taking care of the land,

RIGHT: Student Amy Jones is dwarfed by silos at the NAP I pinto bean processing facility. NEXT PAGE: Students celebrate a successful bout of weeding at Taos Pueblo Red Willow Education Center.

www.ediblesantafe.com

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edible SANTA FE路

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They wanted to see where food comes from and to weigh the consequences of food production for land and people.

taking care of our farmers, then the size of the farm doesn't really matter." Nutrition student Layla Wall concludes, "Local and cultural foods already have the advantage of being familiar, so by reminding people that these foods can support a healthy diet, we can drive the demand for them as a mutually beneficial goal that supports health, supports local producers and ultimately is more sustainable."

In Corona, planning student Stephanie Rodriguez and Spanish major Brittany Herrera were impressed by the Ranney Ranch, now in the hands of the four children and 10 grandchildren of George Ranney, who purchased the 18,000 acre ranch in 1968. His daughter Nancy's training at Harvard Graduate School of Design equipped her to manage the land and to work with neighboring ranchers as they entertained proposals from 14 wind power developers. For Nancy, the rewards of ranching come from working with cherished customers who enjoy the benefits of grassfed and humanely-raised beef.

Nancy explains that "holistic management really means looking at the ecological basis of the ranch, starting with a planned rotational grazing system." This system has cut fuel costs by 50 percent, reduced feed costs by four-fifths, and increased the biodiversity of grasses from a nearmono culture of blue grama to a mixture of over 25 native grasses.

Nancy's leadership extends regionally to involvement in the Southwest Grassfed Livestock Alliance. This is a group of producers, land managers, conservationists, and researchers dedicated to improving ecological, social, animal and human health. Students saw possible applications for this collaborative approach to other sectors of the foodshed. For example, a similar alliance could well be created including reservoir managers, irrigators, fishermen and environmentalists that would make things 'more neighborly,' to borrow a phrase from New Mexico's farmer-laureate, Stanley Crawford.

edible SANTA FE â&#x20AC;˘ Fall 2011

20

Good relationships help to create more affordable food. At the Taos County Economic Development Corporation (TCEDC), the class was inspired by Pati Martinson and Terrie Bad Hand who built this center over the course of three decades by following a life based on sisterhood, shared leadership and kinship systems. Pati said, "I think as women and mothers, and now grandmothers, everything reinforces the idea that if you don't look at the whole picture, you're just throwing band-aids on one issue." From this insight was born one of many innovative TCEDC projects, the Mobile Matanza. This slaughterhouse on wheels serves ranchers in a 100-mile radius and meets the need for USDA-approved meat processing in rural communities.

New Mexico's tradition of community-based agriculture was evident at nearby Sol Feliz Farm, where Miguel Santistevan farms his grandfather's land and serves as mayordomo with the thankless job of coordinating acequia irrigation during a drought. Miguel explains, "We clean the acequia every spring. The community gets together to share the work so the irrigation water can Rowand then we take turns irrigating throughout the growing season, depending on how long the water lasts."

Few academic marriages of students and faculty survive long hours in the sun, uncertainties of travel and challenges of homework on the road.

But this summer, the students' commitment to each other made them socially nimble, tolerant and supportive when it mattered. Or, perhaps it was the impromptu fun of picnic breakfasts, roadside lunches and local beer at the end of the day that kept the honeymoon going.

e

Dr. Bruce T. Milne is a Biology Proftssor and Director o/the Sustainable Studies Program at UNM, Jessica Rowland is an instructor in the Sustainable Studies Program.

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Four R1s: reading, 'riting, 'rithmetic-and Revolution

BY CATHERINE DRY路 PHOTOGRAPHY BY SYA WARFIELD Frito pie may be a weighty cultural icon in our state, but it is also heavy with salt, loaded with fat, and a fixture at many public school cafeterias.

Trying to change what kids eat at school is hard, and no one may know it better than school principals, nutrition directors and cafeteria workers who are often too restricted by financial and political constraints (not to mention fickle appetites) to push through much needed change.

Serving pizza with a whole grain crust is no small task when budgets are tight. While many schools have removed hormone-laced milk, added some whole grain options, and in some cases set up salad bars, there is still much need for improvement when a typical school lunch includes Salisbury steak or pork riblets. Rarely anywhere in the country are fresh, untreated whole foods on the menu. But the situation is even more critical in New Mexico, where due to high levels of pov-

www.ediblesantafe.com

erty a school lunch may be the only reliable meal a child receives each day.

interested in what it calls its triple bottom line: in addition to the usual financial bottom line, the company is committed to having a positive social and ecological impact. So far, this for-profit venture with a strong social mission has been successful on all fronts. "Our growth;' says Kristin Richmond, CEO of Revolution Foods, "has

Now, the good news: change is afoot in northern New Mexico. Many public and private organizations are already working hard to get more fresh food to our kids in school (see Cooking with Kids, p.26), and one more champion of chilbeen driven by demand for higher quality food." dren's nutrition may be about to join the fight in Their impressive expansion in just five years of New Mexico. Its name is Revolution Foods, and operation certainly suggests they have tapped from its base in Oakland, California, it is trying to into a growing market. change what kids eat at schools all over the country. Founded in 2006, the company now serves That market encompasses a wide customer base 60,000 fresh and healthy meals daily (including that includes public, charter, private and parochibreakfast, lunch and snacks) to students in Cali- al schools, as well as after-school, summer, and fornia, Colorado, Texas, the District of Columbia child development programs. Their standards are and New Jersey. The company is now considering simple and strict: no rBST or hormones in milk coming to northern New Mexico. or dairy; no hormones or antibiotics in meat; no fried food; no high fructose corn syrup; no artiAs a social venture business, Revolution Foods is

21

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Revolution Foods is interested in what it calls its triple bottom line: in addition to the usual financial bottom line, the company is committed to having a positive social and ecological impact. ficial flavors, colors or sweeteners; and no trans fats. A typical lunch from Revolution Foods might include all natural chicken tamales with Spanish rice, a pear and an rBST-free milk. Their menus are kid-friendly, grounded in culture and geography, healthy, and as local as possible. Above all, they are made to be delicious. At a recent series of tastings for interested

First, the company charges schools on a sliding scale, with affluent schools paying more and thus subsidizing meals at lower income schools. Also, because of their high nutritional standards, Revolution Foods meals are 100 percent compliant with the USDA standards for reimbursement.

This means that if a school does participate in the National School Lunch

schools hosted by Richmond and executive chef Amy Klein, the spaghetti and meatballs proved popular, and a salad with a crunchy Asian twist was fresh, light and satisfying. Richmond and Klein were ready to change their enchilada recipe to include Christmas, red and green chile-whatever the schools, parents and students wanted. These tastings were just a first step to introduce New Mexican schools to the healthy lunch revolution and get them on board.

Program, they can still receive federal support for meals from Revolution Foods. Finally, the company has a licensed line of packaged snack foods, and sets aside 3 percent of net revenues to help discount prices for lowincome schools.

Needless to say, fresh, natural ingredients cost more. Nationally, the price for a Revolution Foods lunch is between $3.00 and $4.25, compared to $2.00 charged by Albuquerque Middle and High Schools. The federal government chips in $2.77 for each low-income student that qualifies for a free lunch through the National School Lunch Program. Of the nearly 90,000 students in Albuquerque public schools, 56 percent are eligible for free or reduced price lunches. Although the federal reimbursement rate may increase in the next few years, it still leaves a gap between the price tag of a Revolution Foods lunch and what most schools and families can afford.

So how does Revolution Foods serve schools that cannot afford between $3.00 and 4.25 per lunch?

edible SANTA FE â&#x20AC;˘

Fall 2011

22

Can all of this work in New Mexico? Revolution Foods estimates it could afford to operate in the state at $3.00 per meal provided it can serve 8000 meals daily and grow to 25,000 meals in the near term. If they partner with national and local foundations to build a culinary center (as they have done in other places), the price could go down. The question is whether there are enough students who can afford around $3.00 per meal.

Cien Aguas International School in Albuquerque, a dual language K-8 charter school, attended the recent tastings. Director Michael Rodriguez said he was "impressed with the quality of food and use oflocal vendors:'

OPPOSITE PAGE: Healthy spaghetti and sauce, with fresh broccoli from Revolution Foods. BELOW: CEO, Kristin Richmond. Richmond co-founded the company with Kirsten Tobey, friends who met at UC Berkeley'S Haas School of Business.

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However, echoing a concern held by many schools, Rodriguez also said, "I just want to make sure it is affordable for families:' At his school, the 64 percent of students who do not qualify for federal assistance pay $2.75 for lunch. It remains to be seen whether families at Cien Aguas would be willing to pay an extra 25ct: per meal, and whether there are enough other schools who can afford these prices to make the numbers work.

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Richmond addresses the price gap by pointing out that participation rates in school meal programs actually increase when Revolution Foods meals are served. More students buy the tastier, healthier lunch and this means higher revenues for budget-strapped schools. Pat Donovan, Revolution Foods' Colorado Regional Vice President, attributes the increased participation rates to two factors: parents like the healthier meals and opt for buying them at school rather than packing lunch, while kids enjoy eating them more. Schools have also found that when kids eat healthier meals their academic performance improves in the classroom, and so does their behavior. Donovan shares anecdotal evidence to support this claim, saying that ''AXL Academy, a pre-K-8 school in Aurora, Colorado, tracked test scores of students who participated in the Revolution Foods program and found a positive test score differential for students who were participating:'

Come by our new store at 419 Orchard Drive (off Paseo de Peralta, next to Kakawa Chocolate house and across from the Gerald Peters Galley)

Store Hours: Man-Sat 10-5: 30pm Visit our Website: www.milagroherbs.com (505) 820-6321

Featuring quality toys and games from fair-labor manufacturers in America, Europe and ports around the world

Despite these benefits, and despite endorsement from Michelle Obama as part of her "Let's Move" campaign to solve the epidemic of childhood obesity, Revolution Foods has had a hard time tapping into public school districts. A pilot program is currently underway in a small number ofWashington, nc. public schools with an evaluation based on cost, student participation and nutrition soon to be released.

Monday - Thursday 10 - 5ish Friday & Saturday 10 - 5:30ish Sunday 12 - 4ish

reo.\ toys for up\reo.\ ti~es Plaza Mercado • 112 W. San Francisco St. • Suite 212-C • 982-9373

Poverty and limited access to grocery stores in large parts of the state put New Mexico in dire need of programs that can provide fresh, affordable meals to all students. Bringing healthy food to our children will require a collaborative approach, with many organizations, funders, parents and schools working together to create new, perhaps even revolutionary solutions. Incremental change, or adding one new salad bar at a time, is one approach. But a big leap forward in the quality of food served to all kids might just be the radical shift we need. While it may not be able to singlehandedly solve the hunger problem for children in New Mexico, Revolution Foods could be a savvy partner to have in the cafeteria.

THE ESSENCE

e

Go to revfoods.com for more on the company and its principles or call 510-596-9024 if you are a school interested in learning more.

ARoMA LAND® ALL NATURAL - HANDCRAFTED - HARMONY WITH NATURE

Catherine Dry studied international food policy at The Fletcher School at Tufts University. She now lives in Santa Fe, New Mexico with her husband and son. www.ediblesantafe.com

if WELL BEING®

ESSENTIAL OILS - BODY CARE - SOY CANDLES SANTA FE, NM www.aromaland.com 23

edible SANTA FE· Fal12011

IN THE FOOTHILLS OF THE ALPS, FOR BUT A FEW FLEETING SPRING DAYS, THIS MAN WILL GATHER WILD BLOSSOMS FOR "YOUR COCKTAIL.

The blossoms in question are elderflowers, the man a :B'rench farmer, and the cocktail a stylish creation made with St-Germain, the first liqueur in the world created in the artisanal " :B'rench manner from freshly handpicked elderflower blossoms.

Our story, howe~er, does not end there.

These ephemeral elderflowers are harvested for but a few fleeting weeks in the late spring in the Savoie region of the :B'rench Alps. The wild blooms are gently ushered into sacks and prepared for delivery to market. Some of the men who gather these blossoms for your cocktail will mount

bicycles and carefully ride the umbels of starry white flowers to several small collection stations on the hillside. Vraiment.

There are no more than 100 such farmers, and in a matter of days they will have harvested the entirety of what will become St-Germain for that year.

The elderflowers are then trucked to Burgundy, to the town of Dijon, where the production process takes place. Once they reach the distillery, they are submerged in a locally made ea u de vie and mixed with pure cane sugar.

GERMANY

Gulf of Lion

Yes, in this day and age St-Germain is exceedingly special and rare. Consequently, we are able to hand make only very limited quantities.

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AND WHAT OF THE TASTE OF ST-GERMAIN?

It has been said that

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Neither passionfruit nor pear, grapefruit nor lemon, the sublime taste of StGermain hints at each of these and yet none of them exactly. It is a flavor as subtle and delicate as it is captivating.

A little like asking a hummingbird to describe the flavor of its favorite nectar.

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THE ST-GERMAIN COCKTAIL parts

Brut Champagne or Dry Sparkling \Vine

11/2

St-Germain

2

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l>1ethod: In a tall ice-filled Collins glass add Champagne first, then St-Germain, then club soda and stir completely. Think of Paris circa 1947.

Garnish with a lemon twist.

Variation: Think of Sartre circa 1947.

Be the lemon twist.

DELIVERING THE FLOWERS TO MARKET.

ST-GERMAIN Be CHAMPAGNE or La Rosette* 1/2

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1

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St-Germain Brut Champagne, Dry Sparkling \{ine or Brut Rose*

I>1ethod: Pour ingredients into a chilled fluted glass and stir lightly. Float half a strawberry as a garnish. Drink a toast to the elegance of simplicity and the divinity of fraises fraiches.

Variation: Experiment with other garnishes. A lemon twist, or raspberries perhaps. Just don't tell the strawberries - you know how jealous they can get.

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kids cook!

Cooking Comes to School

BY CATHERINE DRY. PHOTOS BY LYNN WALTERS AND KATE RUSSELL

"Who knows what falafel is?" Jane Stacey, program director of Cooking

Cooking with Kids is waging a critical battle, one classroom at a time. In

with Kids, asked a roomful of students at Chaparral Elementary School

New Mexico, nearly one in four adults is obese, and 28 percent of high

during a hands-on cooking class about foods from the Middle East. Over

school students is overweight or obese. Obesity is paradoxically twinned

the course of the school year, Stacey taught the same lesson to some three

with hunger, as high levels of poverty put fresh, affordable foods out of

hundred and fifty kids at different elementary schools and only two knew

reach for many families, leaving a staggering one in five New Mexican

that falafel is a fried chickpea dish. By the end of her two-hour class, all

children food insecure. Eating unprocessed foods has become a luxury

the children knew not just what it was, but how to cook it. They learned

and cooking from scratch is becoming a lost art. Walters and her staff

that falafel is eaten in the Middle East, where the Middle East is, why

encounter great variation in cooking experience as well as economic reali-

chickpeas are good for you, and how to say as-salamu-alaykum or "Peace

ties among students. Some kids never use their kitchen and others don't

be upon you" in Arabic.

even have one.

Since Executive Director Lynn Walters launched the non-profit in 1995,

Last year, Cooking with Kids did its part to turn the tide, conducting

Cooking with Kids has brought experiential cooking and nutrition class-

nearly 3000 hours of cooking lessons and fruit-and-vegetable tastings for

es to kindergarteners through sixth graders all over Santa Fe. Students

nearly 4000 students in ten elementary schools. Lessons go beyond learn-

chop, mix, knead, taste, draw and read about healthy and affordable

ing how to cook, meeting academic standards in math, science, language

foods from around the world. "If children participate, if they recognize

arts, social studies, health education and art. Stacey notes that the classes

what goes into the food, then they're more likely to eat it," says Walters.

are a "perfect platform for math." When you need to measure

And forget about falafel, she says, "Some of these kids had never seen a

chickpeas so that your friend can mash them into falafel balls, math be-

carrot before."

comes more tangible.

edible SANTA FE â&#x20AC;˘ Fall 2011

26

~

cup of

www.ediblesantafe.com

/lif children participate, if they

recognize what goes into the food, then they're more likely to eat it. And forget about falafel, some of these kids had never seen a carrot before. /I

- Lynn Walters, executive director

In schools across the country, when nutrition education happens at all, it is otten separate from handling real food because fresh ingredients can be expensive, need refrigeration, and are otten cumbersome and difficult to manage. But the small, devoted staff at Cooking with Kids brings children the real deal with an emphasis on affordable, fresh foods. No plastic fruit or food puppets in sight. For the Middle East lesson, fiveyear-olds tear up mint leaves into tiny pieces to add to a yogurt sauce, while eleven-year-olds Bip sesame Batbreads on a portable griddle.

Along with all the chopping and slicing, kids measure, draw, pore over maps, read aloud, listen to music and clean up. Once the cooking is done and all activities have been completed, tables are set with napkins, plates and forks, and no one begins until everyone is served. Being respectful at the table is part of the lesson, so teachers remind students to wait patiently with their feet on the Boor and their hands on their lap.

When forks meet mouths, the reviews from the kids are overwhelmingly enthusiastic. "I love these classes," said one student. "It's fun making things and trying different foods. I never used to like beans, but now I do!" Another student added, "Making tamales was my favorite class.

Now I make them at home with my grandma." The impact of the lessons continues beyond the classroom: Cooking with Kids' recipes, created by the program's educators, are used twice a month in all of Santa Fe's public elementary school cafeterias.

Cor~

New Muic&

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505-898-1784

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OPPOSITE PAGE: Math used in cooking curriculum. ABOVE: Boys stirring soup; Matt Romero, a farmer educator. NEXT PAGE: Drawings by ~udentBrianda Leyba

~

•

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edible SANTA FE·

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kids cook

Cooking with Kids has garnered rave reviews at the local and national level, from a Pinon Award in Education from the Santa Fe Community Foundation to a Healthy Living Innovation Award from the USDA. This spring, Sweeney Elementary School's fifth graders took second place in Michelle Obama's "Recipes for Healthy Kids" competition with a "Lentils of the Southwest" recipe, developed with help from Stacey as well as Cooking with Kids' Anna Farrier and chef Rocky Durham.

To attract more community involvement, Cooking with Kids invited chefs to participate in the classes, sharing their expertise and serving as role models as part of a "Super Chefs" program. "Kids get really excited when a real chef in a white coat walks in," she explains. To date, volunteer chefs have included Fernando Olea ofEpazote and Bert's Burger Bowl, Kim Mueller of Real Food Nation,]ames Campbell Caruso of La Boca and Rocky Durham of the Santa Fe School of Cooking. Local farmers also drop by to show children what a blooming apricot branch looks like and talk about where their food comes from.

Cooking with Kids programs are primarily funded through the USDA's Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program Education (SNAP-Ed), but now, capped federal dollars and a changed process of distribution make future funding less secure. Walters and her staff are thinking creatively about how to prepare for an uncertain future. One thing is for sure: If Cooking with Kids can keep teaching Santa Fe children how to cook falafel, tamales, minestrone and more, we'll be seeing happier, healthier kids at school.

e

Catherine Dry studied internationalfood policy at The Fletcher School at Tufts University. She now lives in Santa Fe, New Mexico with her husband and son.

TWENTY CLASSIC & SIGNATURE SALADS BUILT UPON FRESH, ORGANIC GREENS & PRODUCE FROM THE RESTAURANT'S TEN-ACRE FARM IN NAMBE

Delicious meats and seafoods can be paired with each salad, creating innovative combinations such as Grilled Caesar with Seared Diver Scallops or Apple Cheddar Chop with Grilled Pork Tenderloin.

Savory soups, grilled sandwiches, a dozen wines by the glass, and housemade desserts supplement the salad bistro menu.

Want to get involved?

Contact Cooking with Kids to see how you can help.

PO Box 6113, Santa Fe, NM 87502 (505) 438-0098 www.cookingwithkids.net contactus@cookingwithkids.net

edible SANTA FE â&#x20AC;˘ Fall 2011

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SAVE THE DATE! The 6th Annual

~Traditional Aericulture ~ '& Sustainable Living Conference Children of the Earth Unite Sharing Traditional Knowledge to Restore the Health of our World.

October 28th & 29th, 20 I I Northern New Mexico College Auditorium

Keynote Speakers:

Vandana Shiva, Percy Schmeiser, Galen Knight, PhD and others More info available at www.fourbridges.farming.officelive.com. click on Conference Information, email fourbridges@live.com. or cal 518-332-3156. '~_-,

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The 2011·2012 season is funded in and the 1% Lodger's Tax, New Cultural Affairs, and the

CAFE PASQUAL S one organic food and art nation under Katharine

BY ANDREA FEUCHT, PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO SALVADOR

This story is about a restaurant. By reputation or personal experience, it is a place you know well-Cafe Pas qual's in Santa Fe. The restaurant has been there, on that corner one block off the Plaza, seemingly forever. It will be there next week and the weeks and months after that. Given its history and status, we might be tempted to take this Santa Fe institution for granted. After all, the kitchen is consistently serving up exactly the organic sustainable thing for whatever craving takes you by the gullet-breakfast, lunch and dinner-every day since 1979.

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Most diners know the restaurant for two things-weekend brunches and the long wait to get in the door. Believe it or not, there are slow hours in the dining room, often in late afternoon. When the inevitable complaint about the demand and the crowd comes up, anyone of the staff will happily say, "We take dinner reservations" without hesitation or any trace of impatience.

Indeed, the dinner hours offer a mellowing of the crowd and a refinement of the menu. Start with a glass of wine from the carefully chosen biodynamic and organic list, then move on to sustainable and organic meat dishes like Oaxacan Tamales and Lamb Barbacoa Tacos. Next, take a detour to the fish, sourced from sustainable fisheries, or to the enchiladas with the kitchen's famous three-chile red sauce. If a straightup puree of dried New Mexico red chiles is the little black dress of this party, this red sauce is your ball gown. Guajillo, ancho and de arbol meet garlic, onions and oregano in earthy scarlet velvet. Judging by the Sunday line loosely congregating at the corner of Don Gaspar and Water Street, brunch is still king. And why wouldn't it be, with those incomparable Huevos Motulefios and their weirdly delicious peas and fried bananas? Or there's the Smoked Trout Hash to cure any salty craving, and of course, Maga's Cheese Blintzes. I had heard love poems about these blintzes and the poetry is justified-their unsweetened filling of cottage cheese thickened by bread crumbs succumbs blithely to the sour cream and jam topping.

This restaurant's story is about a person. Katharine Kagel is a whirlwind of personality-always eager, always talkative and always hungry for whatever is good in art and eating, but she is especially eager when it comes to feeding others.

Raised in the Berkeley home of an avid cook and humanitarian mother, Katharine was taught an appreciation for the best of anything, whether coffee-she's an aficionado of the die-hard variety-or perfectly ripened fruit. I tasted fresh lychees for the first time under her excited watch. In homage to her California roots, the dessert menu at Cafe Pasqual's always includes in-season fruit for those that adore sweet without the added sugar or butter.

Katharine doesn't want you to become too comfortable with your expectations. To her, taking your dining experience for granted can be dangerous to your health. Recall a meal that you've eaten while distracted, multi-tasking or even driving-did it feed you? Or did it merely add calories to your day? That kind of eating is the antithesis of Pas qual's.

What Katharine exudes in her very being is the idea of food as community and connection.

Immediately after opening the restaurant, Katharine started wondering how her talent for organizing could blend food with community outreach. She started the local organization called The Food Brigade, using a cadre of volunteers to unite food preparers and restaurants with food banks to get surplus prepared and perishable foods to hungry people with speed and care. She was elected to the board of the national organization called Foodchain, has served on the board of directors for the Santa Fe Farmers' Market, and envisioned Santa Fe's Food Depot, home of Kitchen Angels and Food for Santa Fe. It is from Katharine's kind of passionate caring that true community is built.

Opposite: Carta de Musica Salad (left), Katharine Kagel in her upstairs office (right); This Page: Server Frank Wilken on a busy monday afternoon (top), the delicious Smoked Trout Hash (bottom); Next Page: Toasted BLT with green chile and Kale salad

back of the house When the inevitable complaint about the demand and the crowd comes up, any one of the staff will happily say, "We take dinner reservations" without hesitation or any trace of impatience.

This person is abont stories. Katharine believes in stories that are told through hand-crafted art-both edible and the kind that has more permanence. One of her goals is to tell stories through her organic food, not just about the literal origins of each ingredient, but of the interweaving of camaraderie and cooking. Another goal is to build life stories-by taking care of friends and employees over the long haul.

David Coulson is the perfect example of a long-hauler. Katharine's righthand man and general manager, David has been loyal and indispensable to the restaurant since his move from Austin in 1984. He started as a line-cook and has worked all over the restaurant, even making a delicious menu contribution for the gluten-averse (the Five Grain Hot Cereal with nutty teff grains). David serves as prime researcher for why they use the ingredients they select.

Speaking with David, you get the sense that he's one of the lucky ones who found a job fit for his talents and passions. When he learned about my interest in judicious and considered meat consumption, I was presented with a printed copy of one of his favorite articles on pig farming. When you love your work, it shows.

Next door and upstairs from the restaurant, the gallery honors several of Katharine's favorite artists. Featured items in the gallery include the Jicarilla Apache mica clay cook pots, a collection of vessels by Felipe Ortega, Brian Grossnickle and Lorenzo Mendez draws in buyers every single day.

Safe for nearly all cooking surfaces, their luminous shapes impart a bit of earthy flavor to each pot of beans or stew, yet last for decades if handled properly.

CAFE PASQUAL'S PHILOSOPHY: Organic: All vegetables, coffee, olive oil, vinegar, flour, spices, herbs, tortillas and food coloring used on cakes and cookies; over 200 organic ingredients in the pantry alone .

And then there are the paper mache sculptures. Human-shaped figures, clever interpretations of migrating birds and cows circling the moon by artist Rick Phelps occupy much of the vertical space in the gallery and contribute a good deal of eye candy to the restaurant itself.

While the hours flew by and we talked about the restaurant's vision for the future, Katherine, David and I consumed a menu sampler that only increased my love for beets and avocados. A round of desserts was finally served, and we enjoyed the famous family-recipe fudge Della's Cookieand the only recipe that is never given out-along with a contrasting chocolate meringue, all crisp chewiness. Pastry, as Katherine puts it, is "the perfect butter delivery vehicle;' and we tasted a peach pie that preserved-impossibly intact-the off-the-tree glory of the fruit between crumbly sugar-dotted crusts.

Local: Whenever possible.

Sustainable: All meats and fish, as well as organic.

Wines: All organic, biodynamic or sustainably grown.

Meats: Naturally-raised, sustainable and certified organic.

Cafe Pasqual's opened their doors on the day I turned 5 years old, but I've only been lucky enough to consume the restaurant's stories as well as its exquisite meals in the last decade, and I've been savoring the ingredients of Katharine's full story over the last weeks. I love the whole-being satiety I get with every Cafe Pas qual's meal, eaten under the colorful multi-stage mural of Leovigil do Martinez's 'The Moon was at a Fiesta.' His visual story of one whopper of a party put on at the behest of the lonely night-bound moon is a reminder that Pasqual's is available morning, noon and night for

Andrea Feucht has been crafting food tales for nearly a decade. She spends much of her

your own joyful party of one or many.

freelance writing time in Albuquerque where she augments the eating with trail running,

e

but adores Santa Fe for its density of amaZing eateries, especially those as friendly as Cafe Pasqual~,.

edible SANTA FE â&#x20AC;˘

Fall 2011

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edibleCOMMUNITIES PUBLICATIONS Vote Now lor the Sixth Annual

LOCAL HERO AWARDS

THE

ARTICHOKE

Join us in celebrating the Heroes of your local food communities!

C A FE

"W'here Artisan Cocktails Meet Creative Cuisine. " Simply visit the link shown below to vote for your "Best Of" nominations in the following categories:

Seasonal, Sustainable, Organic featuring Niman Ranch Meats

CHEF/REsTAURANT • FOOD/RETAIL SHOP FARM/FARMER • FOOD/BEVERAGE ARTISAN NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATION

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Vote online at: www.ediblecommunities.comlheroes Just click on the link for your community to cast your vote.

It's fast and easy!

This year swinners will be announced in March 2012 at the Edible Communities annual publishers meeting and also in each ofour local communities in the spring 2012 issues.

sergio salvador I photography

505.404.0854 I WWW.SALVADORPHOTO.COM www.ediblesantafe.com

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edible SANTA FE·

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people who feed us

extending an invitation to learn STORY A ND PHOTOS BY SARAH WENTZL-FISCHER

On a dewy and mild summer morning, John Garlisch, a Bernalillo County Extension Agent arrives at the Gutierrez Hubbell House with a cup of coffee, three grocery bags and a mile-wide smile. Today, he will teach the final class in a series that covers planting, garden insects and composting. Kids from 4 to 9 years old attended this summer course given by the extension service of USDA. The Arroyo Family comprises the students for the day's first session: Elijah, Sj Olivia, 7j Sara, 9j Jordan, 10j and Paco, 12. According to their mom, Kimberly Arroyo, John's summer course is the first activity all of her kids have clamored to attend. At the end of each day, she gets a detailed account of the seeds they've planted, how to make compost, the snails they encountered in the garden, and the catchy phrases John uses to help them remember important details.

This is typical ofJohn's magic. He radiates a passion for teaching and gardening, making it irresistible to get your hands dirty, regardless of your age.

John believes that growing your own food, even if it is a single pea vine or tomato plant, teaches positive self-determination.

One of John's favorite parts of the job is hearing a kid say, "1 grew this:' Garlisch loves to see children try something new. During a recent summer session at the Hubbell House, his students tasted onions and carrots fresh out of the garden. All the kids, some very tentative at first, exclaimed at how sweet and delicious the veggies tasted. Through these sorts of activities, John encourages children's curiosity about exploring the unknown and confidence in their ability to learn.

John grew up on a large family farm in rural Illinois where he first developed a love for agriculture, later graduating from the University of Illinois with a Master of Science in Agriculture and Consumer Economics. An opening in the extension service brought John to New Mexico, where he's been enthusiastically spreading his knowledge and passion for growing food for the last year. He offers courses to schools in the county, and to youth through programs like 4-H and community centers like the Hubbell House.

Beyond the confines of his job, John seems to be everywhere there is a conversation or activity that champions local food and its production. He is part of a team of people building an urban farm in downtown Albuquerque, and coordinating with local growers' markets to have extension agents provide educational resources at their markets. He's the guy that raises his hand whenever someone needs a volunteer. His combined energy, enthusiasm and expertise make John a valuable voice and partner in the local food movement -New Mexico is lucky to have you, John!

e

For more info on John's work visit bernalilloextension.nmsu.edu.

Sarah Wentzel-Fisher works tirelessly to feed her friends, family, and community. She advocates local food and economy by managing the Downtown Growers Market, participating in planning processes for development ofstronger local food systems, and contributing in a variety of ways to several Edible Communities publications.

He radiates a passion for teaching and gardening) making it irresistible to get your hands dirty; regardless ofyour age. edible SANTA FE â&#x20AC;˘ Fall 2011

34

www.ediblesantafe.com

edible COMMUNITIES MARKETPLACE

To advertise in the edible COMMUNITIES MARKETPLACE please contact: Tracey Ryder, President & CEO • Email: tracey@ediblecommunities.com • Tel: 805-845-9800 www.ediblecommunities.com

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Southwest Gardens

DELIBERATE DESIGN A SEASONAL ApPROACH TO LANDSCAPE STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHRISTIE GREEN

Our physical surroundings shape our daily habits. Climate and seasons inform our food sources and cycles, and influence our interactions with neighbors and wildlife. We also affect our surroundings, sometimes profoundly. Our actions minor and grand, beneficial and malevolent, determine the fate of our environment and ultimately, ourselves. This story is about slow, intentionallandscape design and involves not only the land and designer, but the landowner and many changes and unforeseen variables along the way.

I came to know the owner and her 2.5 acre property in Espanola five years ago. She called in need of a landscape design for her newly constructed home on a lovely property flanked by mature Siberian Elm and Osage Orange trees. I was struck by her patient demeanor rather than a "need it done now" tone. The property owner wanted to embark on a thoughtful, deliberate planning process that allowed us both adequate time to imagine and observe, refine and implement over many years. She appreciated-and in fact, sought-a collaborative designer with whom she could develop an enlivened, enriched landscape around her newly constructed home. Five years later, the implementation progress on her semi-rural property continues gradually.

but instead continually referred to it as a plan in progress. Drawn in pencil to imply looseness and flexibility, our plan has served as an educated idea rather than an exact prescription.

While this property may be more expansive than yours and involve more diverse planting options, the principles of observation, planning and refinement, along with the seasonal approach to implementation may be applied on any scale.

Your success begins with your vision, plans and observation based on how you experience the land and your changing needs. As you begin your process of implementation both below and above ground, you will continue to refine your vision in a deliberate design process whose success depends on active engagement between land and people.

WATER

After the house was complete, we installed water harvesting, including conveyance lines, gutters and storage tanks. Such excavation and construction for water harvesting is best executed in late fall, when precipitation has slowed, the ground has not frozen and gardening maintenance is easier. From the conceptual design, we knew general placement of plantings and could foresee the types of irrigation required for each area.

We embarked by observing and mapping the After the catchment system was complete, 12 irsite-soil, water, light, shade, wind, circulation rigation zones and main lines were installed for routes and future building plans. Although the the planting areas. owner knew certain elements that she desired SOIL such as edibles, harvested water, an orchard, We next decided to cover and enrich the soil water feature and perennial bloom, she was unin her upper field, where it had been scraped sure of the specific shape they would take. She and turned during the construction process. A was receptive to moving slowly. First, we would mixture of field peas and winter rye were sown, focus on building soil and harvesting rainwater topped with local composted steer manure. while developing a sound infrastructure. Later, Composted manure and shredded bark mulch we'd tackle planting the more showy and richly from a local mill were spread over the entire colored ornamental beds. For economic, ecoproperty, to add nutrients while suppressing logical and emotional ease, she chose a more emergent annual weeds. After a winter's rest, the conscious, moderate approach to land developupper field was shaped into bioswales in which ment. We therefore adopted a seasonal planning we then planted heirloom fruit trees from Tooland implementation approach for the site. From ey's Trees. The majority of the field has now been this, we would continually learn and refine the sown with native grass and perennial wildflower plan along the way. species as cover crop and to attract pollinators.

After multiple site visits, photographs and review of the surroundings, I presented her with a pre(continued page 38) liminary sketch. We did not finalize this design,

edible SANTA FE â&#x20AC;˘ Fall 2011

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Southwest Gardens

FALL GARDEN

To-Do

LIST

SOIL

Sheet mulch with alternate layers of carbon and nitrogen-rich materials.

Carbon: newspaper, cardboard, egg cartons, dry leaves, straw.

Nitrogen: kitchen scraps, manure, grass clippings.

Feed, water and turn compost; spread 2" - 4" finished compost on beds.

Top all beds with 2" - 4" mulch (eg. straw, bark, or pecan shells).

PLANT CARE

Harvest edibles; preserve by drying, canning and freezing.

Cut back annuals and perennials after all above-ground green has browned and died back; incorporate cuttings into compost.

Plant garlic.

STONE

We then mapped out pathways, determined what retaining walls were needed and envisioned possible water features. We also began to search local sources for stone as we defined their placement on the ground. Using spray paint and flags, we outlined pathways, the retaining wall and our chosen water feature. By walking along proposed pathways and seeing the proposed lines and locations of walls, the client was able to envision how she would experience the new landscape features and how best to modify them to suit her needs. Fortunately, we located both character boulders and block stone for steps and walls from a source within ISO miles of Espanola and used these to shape and stabilize the slopes abutting the house.

PLANT

We constructed edible beds from stone, creating shapely raised planters adjacent to her kitchengarage breezeway. All other ornamental planting areas were left fallow, covered with compost and mulch. The edible plantings include annual and perennial crops and are rotated seasonally. Five years later, only about 10 percent of the property features ornamental plantings: the rear courtyard and front entrance, where the majority of activity is centered. Native and adapted trees, shrub perennials and grass species offer flower and fruit for humans and birds. These also add to the scent, texture and form of the landscape, while providing shade and vibrant color through the seasons. The remaining areas intended for ornamental plantings will evolve as finances and time allow. Meanwhile, we continue to nurture the soil while observing how the entire vision comes together.

edible SANTA FE â&#x20AC;˘ Fall 2011

Feed soil with phosphorous-rich food.

WATER

Winterize irrigation systems before hard freeze.

Convert existing plumbing infrastructure to grey water, if available, as primary irrigation source for plantings.

Plan and install rainwater catchment from roof, and or: Create swales and check dams for erosion control and passive surface water harvesting.

PATHS

Reshape and refine existing gravel, stone or bark mulch pathways to improve surface, water runoff and appearance.

MICROCLIMATES

Review where cool and hot spots are; refine plantings as needed to maximize warming and cooling effects.

Cover north-facing patios and walkways or divert water collection away from these areas and avoid ice accumulation in winter.

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Christie Green is the proprietress of Studio Succession and Down to Earth, LLC. Visit her website at studiosuccession.com, Facebook: Studio Succession or call 505.983.5743.

38

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Opposite: La Cumbre Brewing company's Jeff Erway takes a break from the tanks (left), A sample from Nexus Brewery (right); Opposite: Super server Jessica Brown in the II Vicino tap room

BY BRAD KRAUS â&#x20AC;˘ PHOTOGRAPHY BY WES NAMAN

Recent national data released by the Brewers Association show a mid-year IS percent growth in sales of craft beer. Albuquerque certainly seems in on the national trend with the opening of several new breweries. Most interesting, perhaps, are three breweries that recently showed up in close proximity to each other, one an existing brewery reopening in a new location, and two new startups.

Brady McKeown, head brewer at II Vicino, says their move was spurred by losing their lease at the Vassar location. They decided to use the turn of events to their advantage to create a larger, more comfortable space for their customers in the tasting room, which they call the IVB Canteen. Jeff Erway, owner and master brewer at La Cumbre, says that utilities and a central location near 1-25 were deciding factors. Ken Carson, the II Vicino Brewing Company is certainly no new- owner of Nexus Brewery, echoed the centrallocomer on the scene. They first started brewing cation theme as well as saying his customers had in 1995 with a very small system at their Central easy access right off the freeway.

Ave. location before moving to a larger facility on Interestingly, all of these breweries said that their Vassar Dr. NE, close to their current location on close proximity to the other breweries was a plus.

Aztec Road NE. Less than a half mile away on More breweries making good beer give people a Girard Blvd. NE is the first of the two newcom- good reason to go to this neighborhood, which ers, La Cumbre Brewing Company. The other has mainly been for light manufacturing, accordnewcomer, Nexus Brewery, is located just north ing to Jeff and Brady. All agree that devoted beer of Montgomery Blvd NE on the Pan American lovers go to all three breweries, though Ken notFreeway frontage road. When asked what led ed that each attracts its own distinctive crowd. them to choose their locations, all answer that it These three brewers all come from disparate had to do with zoning and affordability.

edible SANTA FE â&#x20AC;˘

Fall 2011

40

backgrounds. Before Nexus, Ken Carson was in banking, having served as the president of the Bank of Belen and as senior vice president of electronic banking at First Community Bank. La Cumbre's Jeff Erway was a gigging musician and guitar instructor, then a music teacher and band director for five years before entering the brewing profession at Chama River Brewing Company in 2007. Brady McKeown started out busing and waiting tables, eventually at II Vicino, where he decided to help out in the little brewery on Central before becoming the head brewer. One thing they all have in common is their love for beer, both the brewing and the history of it, and the positive social aspect of sharing with friends and family.

Each place has its own atmosphere, something that the owners and brewers feel sets them apart from their neighbors. Brady points to II Vicino's large patio, food and live music. Ken says Nexus' interior, with its light color scheme and sense of

www.ediblesantafe.com

space, attracts families, and their food and service make them distinctive.

Jeff says he had no interest in doing food service at La Cumbre, so his focus is the beer and his staff knows how important it is to him.

The consensus among all three is that business is good and that the small, but growing, brewing scene in Albuquerque is sustainable. Brady says even though they might have lost a few customers during their transition, they have gained many new ones and are selling more beer through the taproom than before. Jeff believes there will be even more demand for craft beer, and he envisions ongoing growth from distributing his beer to other local pubs. Ken says their sales have increased by 10-20 percent each week, and as long as they care for the customer, remain flexible and listen to patrons' concerns, they'll be truly successful. All of these brewers say that people appreciate their well-made, local products, so what more reason do you need to visit?

Brad Kraus is a projessional brewer with over 20 years oj experience. He is currently the head brewer jar Blue Corn Brewery and brewmaster jar Abbey Beverage Company-Monks' Ale, as well as a brewery consultant.

II Vicino Brewing

2381 Aztec Rd NE

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BETTER WITH BITTERS

BY KATE GERWIN â&#x20AC;˘ PHOTO BY BILL YORK

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lthough they may sound unappetizing, bitters are quite the opposite - they are the salt and pepper of the cocktail world and right now, they are the hottest trend in the cocktail industry. Historically used for medicinal purposes, bitters stimulate the appetite and aid in digestion.

Bitters is a generic term referring to aromatic infusions or distillations made from herbs, seeds, fruits, roots, spices or barks. Flavors are typically extracted from the herbs by infusing them with a high-proof neutral alcohol, but they can be distilled and created without alcohol, much like perfume. There are drinking bitters like Campari, Pimms or Fernet Branca, and concentrated cocktail bitters, usually only added in small dashes or drops to your cocktail.

For years, bitters fell out of use. Most bars had a crusty-topped bottle wrapped in paper only to be used in the obscure Old Fashioned that was rarely ordered. Those days are gone. Now the top mixology bars in the country are creating their own bitters and turning to aromatic bitter producers to add dimension to and enhance their artistic concoctions.

Artisanal bitters are popping up everywhere, and New Mexico has its very own aromaticus bitteris right here in Santa Fe. Bill York's The Bitter End is now offering five innovative flavors with kick. Ingredients-including fresh and dried spices, herbs, fruits, chiles, and other aromatic botanicals -are hand-selected from premium purveyors. Each batch is mixed, infused, and dispensed by hand in a limited quantity using a closely guarded proprietary formula. Bill uses no extracts, preservatives, or artificial flavorings. At the recent Tales of the Cocktail event in New Orleans, the inventive flavor of Bill's bitters brightened eyes and cracked smiles on the most respected mixologists in the world.

edible SANTA FE â&#x20AC;˘ Fall 2011

42

Bill's super-concentrated Mexican Mole is my favorite. Using the distillation method, he combines poblano, chocolate, cocoa, sesame and cinnamon for a rich and warming heat. The Bitter End's Jamaican Jerk reminds me of the sweet and intense flavors of the Caribbean. Just smelling them makes me hear a steel band somewhere in the distance. A culinary delight, the Moroccan Bitters feel like being in a true chefs kitchen with scents of coriander, lemon, mint and cinnamon wafting through the air. If you really want to create something out of the box, the Memphis Barbeque will add a smoky depth and underlying spicy heat.

If you want to see these bitters in action, swing by Secreto Bar inside Hotel St. Francis and ask for Chris Milligan to make you a drink. The Santa Fe barman and blogger offers a multitude of creations, including the Thai Me Up. This one features The Bitter End's Thai Bitters, along with vodka, pomegranate liqueur, lemon juice and sparkling wine. The mint, galangal, lemongrass and kaffir lime flavors in the Thai Bitters make the bubbles dance and sing in your mouth.

Take the bitter challenge and sample your favorite cocktail without bitters.

Then add just a dash or two of your favorite bitters and try again. Chances are that next time you won't be drinking without your salt and pepper!

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Kate Gerwin is a Certified Sommelier from the International Court of Master Sommeliers, a Certified Specialist of Wine from the Society of Wine Educators, and one of the few women in the country to hold the Expert Diplome es Vins de Bordeaux.

Visit ediblesantafe.com for a recipe to make your own bitters-or visit www.bitterendbitters.com for cocktail recipes and more info.

www.ediblesantafe.com

Eat Local Guide YOUR GUIDE FOR BEST DINING IN NM New Mexico has its own unique food traditions-from Hatch to Chimayo-and we'd like to help you find some of the area restaurants and chefs that create the distinctively New Mexico dining experience. Restaurants are chosen for this dining guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients in their menus and their commitment to real food.

ALBUQUERQUE ARTICHOKE CAFE Celebrating its 20th year in business, the Artichoke Cafe offers casual fine dining, a Wine Spectator Award Winning Wine List and Artisan Cocktails in the full-service bar. Private rooms are available for special occasions and meetings. Off-premise catering. Onpremise parking with attendant on duty.

424 Central Ave Sf, 50.5.243.0.20.0. artichokecafe.com FARINA PIZZERIA & WINE BAR An artisan pizzeria and wine bar with a classic Italian menu with a sophisticated twist Great selection of affordable Italian wines, local Marble Brewery on draught, and delectable home-made desserts in a rennovated historic building Voted "Best New Restaurant" by Albuquerque The Magazine.

510. Central Ave Sf, 50.5.243.0.130. fa rinap izzeria. com FLYING STAR CAFE Fine cuisine in a friendly scene. We're your locally-owned neighborhood cafe serving made from scratch food, desserts and fresh roasted coffee. We're open early and stay open late from breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in between. Diverse magazines and free Wi-Fi.8 locations in Abq, family owned.

723 Silver Ave SW 50.5.244.80.99 80.0.1 Menaul Blvd Nf 50.5.293.6911 3416 Central Ave Sf 50.5.255.6633 450.1 Juan Tabo Nf 50.5.275.8311 40.26 Rio Grande NW 50.5.344.6714 10.70.0. Corrales Rd, 50.5.938.4717 80.0.0. Paseo del Norte, 50.5.923.4211 20.0. S Camino del Pueblo, Bernalillo 50.5.40.4.210.0.

LOS POBLANOS INN Our cuisine is rooted in what comes from our farm as well as the New Mexico Rio Grande River Valley. Cuisine and ambiance reflect chef Jonathan Pemo's aesthetic, and the farm's long established relationships with local farmers.

Please check our website to see when the next dinner will be, or to book your own event or private dining experience: lospoblanos.com PRIME Gourmet sandwiches and delicatessen, fine wines by the bottle, beers and spirits, specialty cheeses and full-service butchery featuring prime cuts of beef and lamb.

6855 4th St NW Los Ranchos,

wwwediblesantafe.com

50.5.890..9150. Man-Fri 10.-6, Sat-Sun 9-3 cutofprime.com SAVOY BAR AND GRILL Savoy is a casual fine dining, locallyowned restaurant in Albuquerque's Northeast Heights. Savoy has a full bar, extensive wine list, serves steaks, oysters, and fresh fish. We have a beautiful patio and lounge, featuring specials and a great happy hour daily.

10.60.1 Montgomery Blvd Lunch' M-F 11-3, Dinner daily at 5.

50.5.294.9463 savoyabq.com SEASONS ROTISSERIE & GRILL Great food and wine with a seasonal flair. Enjoy our wood-fired steaks and seafood while sipping a glass of wine from our award winning wine list Or, relax on our rooftop patio and enjoy our happy hour with a great view of Old Town, Albuquerque.

Lunch. M-F 11.30.-2.30. Dinner daily at 5.

20.31 Mountain Rd, NW 50.5.766.510.0. seasonsabq.com THE GROVE CAFE & MARKET An artisan cafe serving breakfast, lunch and brunch. The Grove features local organic produce and products and always uses the highest quality seasonal ingredients available. Enjoy fine coffee, tea, wine and brunch cocktails and peruse our market for culinary gifts and favorite foodie items. Sunday brunch is a true taste of this bustling cafe scene.

60.0. Central Ave, Sf 50.5.248980.0.

Tues-Sat 7-4, Sun 8-3, Closed Mon thegrovecafemarketcom VERNON'S HIDDEN VALLEY STEAKHOUSE & JAZZ CLUB Voted Best Steakhouse by Albuquerque The Magazine & Top 50 Most Romantic Restaurants in the Nation by Open Table.com! Do you have your password?

6855 4th St. NW Suite A Los Ranchos, 50.5.341.0831. theh iddenstea khouse.com ZINC WINE BAR AND BISTRO A three-level bistro in the heart of Nob Hill, Zinc features contemporary cuisine with a French flair. The intimate cellar bar serves a lighter menu with live music three nights a week. Serving lunch and dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails and tasty bar bites I 30.0.9 Central Avenue, NE. 50.5.254.9462 Lunch T-F 11-2.30., Dinner daily at 5, Weekend brunch 11-230. zincabq.com

43

edible SANTA FE路 Fal12011

Eat Local Guide

Did you know?

YOUR GUIDE FOR BEST DINING IN NM

These items are all organic all the time at

Cafe Pasqual's

(continued next page) SANTA FE

mangoes lemons, AVOCADOS, cilantro, REO POTATOES, acorn squash, BANANAS, limes, blueberries, tanoelos, white mushrooms, leeks, REO CHARD, cher~ tomatoes, red onions, oarll. butternut squash, SUGAR SNAP PEAS, red pears, navol ~rangBs, raspberries, strawberries, shiitake mushroDms, oreen cabbaoe, cele~, YUKON GOLD POTATOES, ,ello. onions, 0' ANJOU PEARS, oreen onions, italian pa"le" red beets, spaohetti squash, ASPARAGUS, bibb lettuce, Donn, smith apples, BEACK BEANS, oat bon, cola, mot beer, oinoer ale, milk, coconut, corn on ~e cob, apple juice, oopetruit juice, ORANGE JUICE, sto.ber~ jam, ospber~ presmes, KETCHUP, maple SIruP, black stop molasses, OLIVE OIL, ,ello. com meal, rolled oats, BA8MATI RICE, jasmine rice, pomeornnate juice, blackberries, sesame seeds, brown sugar, p~wdered sugar, vanillaextract, lemon juice, lime juice, pineapple juice, pumpkin seeds, barte,tlakes, tett, veoetable shortenino, balsamic,ineoar, EGGS, butter, pop PI seeds, ALL FLOUR, portabello mushrooms, rosie's chicken, tolu, HEARTS OF ROMAINE, carrots, chicken li,",s, lood colorino, oarnet yams, red kale, persimmons, eooplant, lennel, heavy cream, HALF AND HALF, cream cheese, Bartlett pears, zucchini, YOGURT. cottaoe cheese, SOUR CREAM, kumquats, kiwilruit, REO BELL PEPPERS, shallots, ginger, plums, valencia oranges, radishes, buttermilk, COFFEE, beer, and WINE

ANDIAMO We prepare the finest, local and seasonal ingredients a la minute with the utmost care and respect Eating sustains more than the body, dining at Andiamo inspires conversation and evokes memories. We see Andiamo as a collective experience for people who love food, our staff is genuinely happy to work with our customers. At the end of the day, we want our guests to feel better for having eaten here. Across the street from the Railyard.

322 Garfield, 505.995.9595. Nightly 5.15 www.andiamoonline.com AZTEC CAFE A Santa Fe Tradition for over 20 yearslocated in the heart of the Guadalupe Arts District, between the Capitol Building and The Santa Fe Farmers Market. House made pastries, organic coffee, smoothies, local fare, patio dining, house-made ice cream, soups, sandwiches, New Mexico specialties.

311 Aztec St, 505820.0025 Breakfast and Lunch: Dinner coming SOON I Family Friendly -Open lam daily. aztecstreetcafe.com

121 Don Gaspar Avenue Breakfast/ Lunch 8-3 Dinner 5:30 - 9:30/10:00

')!

Dinner Reservations Recommended 505'983'9340

"So what's the buzz about?

Flavor, to put it Simply, the combination of spices, meat and veggies, of sweet and tangy, fiery are subtle."

Albuq uerque Journal

African 6- Caribbean Cuisine Chef-Owner· Ahmed 0110

FLYING STAR Fine cuisine in a friendly scene. We're your locally-owned neighborhood cafe serving made from scratch food, desserts and fresh roasted coffee. We're open early and stay open late from breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in between.

Diverse magazines and free Wi-Fi. 500 Market Street, next to the Railyard.

505216.3939 IL PIATTO ITALIAN FARMHOUSE KITCHEN Located One Block North of the Historic Santa Fe Plaza. Nationally acclaimed bustling trattoria featuring farm fresh, local produce, wine bar, private wine room, patio dining, Enoteca. House-made everything - award winning Chef.

95 west Marcy St, 505.984.1091 Lunch Man-Sat, Dinner 1 nights, Enoteca 2-5 Man-Sat il piattosantafe.com JAMBO Check out the buzz! Chef Ahmed Dbo's subtle, East African-inspired cuisine has taken Santa Fe by storm. Try the Souper Bowl-winning peanut, chicken,

Serving Beer& Wine

2010 (errillo! Road (near Hobby Lobby) Santa fe (505) 473-1269 wwwJambocafe.net 11:00 am - 9:00 pm •Monday -saturday · Closed Sunday

edible SANTA FE • Fall 2011

CAFE PASQUAL'S In 1999 we received the James Beard Americas Regional Cooking Classics Award for a "timeless, grassroots restaurant that serves memorable food and is strongly embedded in the fabric of the community." For thirty years we have been serving emphatically flavored cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of New Mexico, Old Mexico and Asia. We are dedicated to using fresh, seasonal, organic and naturally raised foods.

121 Don Gaspar, 505.9839340 or 800.7227612, Open Daily for lunch from 8-3, Sunday Brunch 8-3, Dinner nightly from 5.30pm

44

coconut stew, stuffed phyllo, jerked chicken, succulent locally-raised goat or lamb, curries, wraps, more.

2010 Cerrillos Road. 505.413.1269 Open Man-Sat. 1Jam-9pm Menu atjambocafe.net LA BOCA An intimate 50 seat restaurant in the heart of downtown Santa Fe that feels like a lively European tapas/wine bar.

Exploring widely within the narrow focus of Spanish food, Spanish chef James Campbell Caruso creates small dishes and authentic tapas.

12 W Marcy St. 505.982-3433 labocasf.com LA CASASENA A local favorite for over 27 yearsl Chef Gharrity features modern, sustainable cuisine, infused with Southwestern influences and fresh, local, seasonal ingredients. We also feature an awardwinning wine list Located in the historic Sena plaza.

125 E Palace Ave 505.9885232 Lunch. Man-Sat 11-3, Sun Brunch. 11-3, Dinner 5.30-10 nightly www.lacasasena.com MUSEUM HILL CAFE Museurn Hill Cafe, a beautiful setting situated between two world class rnuseums serves lunch daily. An eclectic rnenu, Asian Shrirnp Tacos, Traditional Reuben, Roast Beef on Grilled Sourdough, Curried Lentil Salad, Cobb Salad, Wine & Beer, lots of free parking.

110 Camino Lejo. 505.984.8900. rn useurnhi Il.org/dine STATION HOUSE CAFE Serving the best coffee and espresso drinks in Santa Fe located in the historic Gross Kelly Warehouse track side at the Santa Fe Depot in the Railyard.

Pastries, grournet sandwiches and all natural Taos Cow ice crearn. Look for the red urnbrellas l 530 S. Guadalupe in the Railyard.

505.9882140. stationcoffeeandtea.com TREE HOUSE PASTRY & CAFE Named one of the country's "Top 100 Farm to Table Restaurants" by Gourmet Magazine, this sweet neighborhood cafe has been serving all-organic, locally-sourced, vegetarian meals-as well as scrumptious cakes and pastries-since 2006. Family friendly, conveniently located Just off Second St 1600 Lena Street, A2 505.414.5543.

Tues-Sat 8.30am- 3.00pm. treehouse pastry.com VINAIGRETTE A bright and lively bistro and wine bar in an historic adobe near downtown Santa Fe. Specializes in creative, gourmet entree salads that highlight local and organic ingredients, including produce from the owner's farm I 109 Don Cubero Alley, 505.8209205 M - S 11am - 9pm, Closed Sun vinaigretteonl ine.com

www.ediblesantafe.com

TAOS DOC MARTIN'S, TAOS INN Doc Martin's Restaurant is a true Taos tradition, an acclaimed dining establishment located in a registered historic landmark. Executive Chef Zippy White specializes in fresh local food with a splash of the southwest, sourcing from regional farms and gardens.

With over 400 wine selections, our world class wine list has earned Wine Spectator's "Best Of" Award of Excellence for twenty one consecutive years.

125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos.

575.7582233 Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving brunch on Saturday and Sunday taosinn.com EL MEZE Regionally inspired rustic New Mexican, Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine from Chef/Food Historian Frederick Muller. Dinner only Monday - Saturday 5:30pm to 9:30pm. Closed Sundays. Located in the historic EI Torreon Hacienda.

1017 Paseo del Pueblo Norte (12 miles north of the TaosPlaza).

575.751.3337 elmeze.com

THE GORGE BAR AND GRILL A fun and casual restaurant, perfect for a delicious meal or cocktails and appetizers to top off the day. The menu is straightforward and yet eclectic, chock full of favorites with the special twist of The Gorge Every dish on the menu is made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible ..

103 East Taos Plaza Taos, NM 575.758.8866 thegorgebarandgri Ilcom TAOS DINER AND TAOS DINER II Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown and organic breakfast, lunch and dinners. Glutenfree choices. Beer and wine. Many ingredients from local farms and ranches. Fair trade organic coffee, where the locals gol 908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575.7582374 or Taos Diner 1/ at 2168 Paseo del Pueblo Sud, 575.751.1989

Edible Communities readers across the country rely on Edible Eat Local Guides to find the restaurants and chefs that are committed to celebrating and bringing diners the very best in local food and drink.

For more information on how you can be listed in Edible's Eat Local Guide in print and online, please email Jili@ediblesantafe.com .

GORGE

8RR ~ GRILL

LOCATED IN THE HISTORIC TAOS PLAZA

FANTASTIC PATIO DAILY SPECIALS HAND SHAKEN MARGARITAS

VOTED IIBEST IN TAOS" 2011

www.ediblesantafe.com

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edible SANTA FE路 Fal12011

edible events

September

September

4

14

HATCH CHILE FESTIVAL

AG COLLABORATIVE MEETING

Hatch hatchchi lefest.com

mrcog-nm.gov

ALBUQUERQUE

September

September

18

21-25

4TH ANNUAL URBAN FARM AND

SANTA FE WINE AND CHILE FIESTA

HARVEST FESTIVAL

SANTA FE

Albuquerque cabq.gov/openspace

santafewinea ndch i le.org

RIO GRANDE AGRICULTURAL LAND TRUST HARVEST DINNER ALBUQUERQUE

rgalt.org

September

September

September

22 & 23

23 & 24

24

FIELD TO FORK

THE WHOLE ENCHILADA FIESTA

ACEQUIA CULTURE INTERNATIONAL

ALBUQUERQUE

LAs CRUCES enchi ladafiesta .com

FROM AL-ANDALUZ TO THE AMERICAS

lospob lanos.com

ALBUQUERQUE

nhccnm.org 9TH ANNUAL HARVEST FESTIVAL AND THE GREAT GRAPE STOMP

Aztec aztecchamber.com

October

October

1

16

HARVEST FESTIVAL

LINCOLN COUNTY COWBOY SYMPOSIUM

LAs GOLONDRINAS go londrinas.org

cowboysymposium.org

RUIDOSO

To Find Updated Edible Events, Visit www.ediblesantafe.com

edible SANTA FE路

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46

www.ediblesantafe.com

edible events

October

October

8

7-9 2011

RED RIVER OKTOBERFEST RED RIVER

MUSIC SHOWCASE

redrivernewmex.com

Albuquerque nmbrewfest.com

October

&

October

9 LOCAL FOOD FESTIVAL

NEW MEXICO BREW FEST

12 & FIELD

DAY

AG COLLABORATIVE MEETING

ALBUQUERQUE

hubbellhousea Ilia nce.org

Albuquerque mrcog-nm.gov

October

October

October

14-15

15

COOK WITH THE CHEF CHALLENGE

LIVING SOIL IS WHERE IT'S AT

FROM FIELD TO FEAST

Santa Fe santafea ll iance.com

Santa Fe carboneconomyseries.com

Albuquerque indianpueblo.org

13

October

21-22 BURQUE BIONEERS CONFERENCE

Albuquerque bbqbq.wordpress.com

November

November

8-10

9

New Agrarians Conference Albuquerque qu iviracoa Iition .org

AG COLLABORATIVE MEETING

Albuquerque mrcog-nm.gov

To Find Updated Edible Events, Visit www.ediblesantafe.com www.ediblesantafe.com

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edible SANTA FE路

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last bite

M

y mother died suddenly, without warning, on Thanksgiving Day nine years ago. It was a strangely symbolic day for her to die, a holiday that revolves around food, one of the great loves that she and I shared.

The year after she died I baked my first bird; a proud moment for most women, indicating the baton had been passed from one generation to the next. For me, the baton hadn't been passed so much as dropped abruptly at my feet. I wanted to put my heart into preparing the foods I love, that my mother loved, but it's all so complicated. My grief was wrapped around the pumpkin pie; the turkey stuffed with sadness. I preferred to let Thanksgiving - the one day on our calendar where food is placed in highest esteem - slide by without notice. Remembering wouldn't allow me to forget.

Last year, finally, I was ready for things to be different. I'm not sure why. Perhaps it's because I spent the previous Thanksgiving holed up in a hotel in New Zealand, where I supped on an entirely too-large steak - jarring enough circumstances to conclude the cycle of wallowing. Whatever the reason, I was ready to pick up the tradition of Thanksgiving again. It was important to start small, to imbue just enough pomp to help the day feel special, but not so much as to feel disappointed if things didn't go as planned. I invited my friend, Tim, a consummate foodie. We built a menu together, drawing on classics while incorporating what we hope will become new favorites. Everyone agreed that rolls were in order, but a fierce debate broke out between homemade, tinned, or store-bought. There had to be pie, but we were divided on what kind, finally settling on pumpkin sour cream, made with real pumpkin puree. We agreed on mashed potatoes and stuffing, and to do without the Jell-o salad.

But the piece de resistance, the only thing I insisted on, was the Heritage turkey. After reading Barbara Kingsolver's Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, where she devotes an entire chapter to this bird, bred for hundreds of years in our country, I knew I had to have one. I ordered my turkey from a local farmer in the spring, and Thanksgiving week I picked up the bird from the back of a dusty white pick-up truck parked in front of a local furniture store, one of only six butchered by the lone farmer's hand that year. Valerie, the farmer, had lost her husband around the holidays the previous year; we shared an instant kinship, participants in a club for which we maintain a reluctant membership.

She handed me the turkey, wrapped in white paper with the words, "Happy Thanksgiving, Elizabeth!" scrawled in black. It was regal and speciaL It was the kind of thing my mom and I would have spent hours talking about, waiting and wondering what the turkey would taste like. It was the perfect way to move forward.

And yet, as I prepared for this modest feast, I could feel the past tugging at me. As I flipped through my recipe file I stumbled upon the recipes

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for the dishes my mother had planned on preparing Thanksgivings ago, pages torn from Country Living and Martha Stewart and stuffed haphazardly in the front pocket. I had found them sitting unceremoniously on the kitchen counter alongside an already-cooked turkey that day, and couldn't bear to throw them out. There was the recipe for the Pumpkin Sage Cream Sauce to dress the pumpkin ravioli, and Cranberry Bean Salad with Butternut Squash and Broccoli Rabe, whose ingredients weren't destined to come together. Why had my mother ripped four pages on roasting vegetables from an obliging magazine? Was she planning on making the roasted carrots or the roasted beets? It wouldn't have mattered; my mother knew I loved both.

When I thumbed through my copy of The New Vegetarian Epicure, searching for inspiration for this year's dinner, I was stopped in my tracks, as I always am, by the recipe for the Walnut Tart. Every time I see that recipe I remember insistently knocking on my mother's apartment door while lay splayed on the cheap blue carpet on the other side of the door, her heart having mysteriously stopped hours earlier. The tart was my contribution that day, my mom having supplied the walnuts, which she received from an itinerant walnut farmer who stopped by her bakery every fall.

I am working hard to free myself of these culinary shackles; you cannot celebrate Thanksgiving without addressing food. I marvel at the fact that my relationship to food is so comfortable the other 364 days, but rather than let myselfbe ruled by discomfort on this day, I am reclaiming the positive. My mother gave me my love of cooking. She'd be proud to see me scurrying with authority around my own grown-up kitchen, basting my heritage turkey. I wish she could be there to sample a slice of my homemade pie. But when we gather around the table this evening, I know her spirit - tucked in the folds of the rolls she taught me to make, nestled in the crinkle of the pie crust she showed me how to prepare - will be with me. My mother is always with me in the kitchen, especially on Thanksgiving.

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Elizabeth Grant Thomas is a mothetj writer and counselor who calls Albuquerque home. She writes regularly at her blog, Lifeinpencil.com

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