edible
ISSUE 37 • SPRING 18
Santa Barbara
Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County
ISSUE
Renewal and Rebuilding A Love Letter to Los Olivos From Grape to Great Winemaking Takes a Journey L O YA L T O L O C A L
edible
SANTA BAR BAR A
®
page 24
ROSMINAH BROWN
STE VEN BROWN
spring page 30
Departments 6 Food for Thought
26 Global Local Cuisine
by Krista Harris
Thai Ocean-Influenced Cuisine
10 Small Bites 12 Wine Tasting Tips 15 In Season 16 Seasonal Recipes Brasato Beef and Vegetables in Red Wine
by Rosminah Brown
36 Edible Voices A Montecito Story
20 Edible Garden
74 Eat Drink Local Guide
72 Event Calendar
by Joan S. Bolton
80 The Last Bite
24 Drinkable Landscape
by Liz Dodder
by George Yatchisin
JOSHUA CURRY
Nocino: A Taste of Italy in Our Backyard
by Kathi King
Oliver’s Offers Montecito Sunshine
2 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
30 Edible DIY
Braised Vegetables in Red Wine Ash Aftermath
page 18
by Laura Booras
Spring’s Don’t-Miss Dish
edible
SANTA BAR BAR A
®
spring
Features by Sonja Magdevski
page 71
50 From Grape to Great A Look at Santa Barbara County Wine from Some of Its Pioneers
Recipes in This Issue
by George Yatchisin
Salads and Side Dishes
54 For the Love of Wine
70 Roasted Fingerlings Stuffed with Pesto 68 Shaved Asparagus, Broccolini and Farro Salad
Four Santa Barbara County Winemakers Who Make Time for Passion Projects by Hana-Lee Sedgwick
60 Winemaking Takes a Journey From Spain to the Central Coast by Carmen Smyth
66 Time to Gather Around the Table by Pascale Beale
Main Dishes 16 Brasato Beef and Vegetables in Red Wine 18 Braised Vegetables in Red Wine 68 Poached Salmon with a Citrus-Cardamom Beurre Blanc 27 Santa Barbara Spot Prawn Green Curry
Desserts 71 Genevieve’s Gateau
Beverages ABOUT THE COVER
Bud break and the first leaves emerge at Brander Vineyard. Photo by Fran Collin.
4 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
25 Little Miss Sunshine 34 Nocino
MEDIA 27
40 A Love Letter to Los Olivos
Visit us online to see our complete line of
An employee-owned B Corporation
organic mattresses, sofas & bedding
Find a Savvy Rest dealer near you at savvyrest.com Savvy Rest and our three production facilities have all been certified to the rigorous GOTS standard
Savvy Rest has achieved GREENGUARD GOLD certification for our organic mattresses, pillows, EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 and mattress toppers.
| 5
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
STE VEN BROWN
Through Rosé-Colored Glasses This issue is dedicated to the optimists. To those who don’t just have hope for the future, but who know that for every disaster and every loss there will be renewal and rebuilding. That we have the opportunity to make our community even better and even more resilient. To me, the image of a bud breaking is the embodiment of optimism. After fire, flood, mud and boulders, there is something heartfelt about a plant’s new growth. I love seeing the bright green color of new leaves each spring in my garden and on the vineyard-dotted hillsides all around us. We had planned last year for this issue to celebrate wine. But while working on it I found that the stories formed a theme of resiliency in the face of the disasters as well as renewal and dreams for the time ahead. Perhaps only an optimist can plant a vineyard or make wine. These are endeavors that require a vision for the future and the ability to weather the fickle behavior of Mother Nature. There are not many who have this ability or wish to choose this path. But both the picturesque vineyards and the resulting bottles of wine benefit all of us who live here. Perhaps wine can make optimists of us all. Wine has a way of magically heightening flavors, enhancing conversation and transforming food into a meal. In the weeks and months that have followed the Thomas Fire, the community has rallied with support for those in need with dinners and fundraisers, donations and the simple act of gathering together. Our local food and wine industry has been, and continues to be, there for us. Maybe that is why we want to encourage everyone to step up their support of local food and wine. The simple act of ordering local wine while eating out at a locally owned restaurant that supports local farmers is a powerful one. Edible Santa Barbara is a small, locally owned business like many of the wineries, restaurants and other businesses that you see advertising in the pages of this magazine. I can’t thank them enough for their support and for believing in us and our community. And I thank all of you, our readers, for taking the time to read this magazine, to share it with others and to spread this message of hope and optimism.
Krista Harris, Editor and Co-Publisher
We want to see and hear from you. Follow and tag us on Instagram @ediblesb and #ediblesb. Sign up for our email newsletter at EdibleSantaBarbara.com 6 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
edible
SANTA BAR BAR A Member of Edible Communities
Edible Communities James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year (2011)
PUBLISHERS
Steven Brown & Krista Harris EDITOR
Krista Harris RECIPE EDITOR
Nancy Oster COPY EDITING & PROOFING
Doug Adrianson Julie Simpson DESIGNER
Steven Brown ADVERTISING & EVENTS
Katie Hershfelt ads@ediblesantabarbara.com SOCIAL MEDIA
Jill Johnson
Contributors Pascale Beale Joan S. Bolton Laura Booras Rosminah Brown Joshua Curry Fran Collin Liz Dodder Wil Fernandez Kathi King Sonja Magdevski Hana-Lee Sedgwick Carmen Smyth Carole Topalian George Yatchisin Edible Santa Barbara® is published quarterly and distributed throughout Santa Barbara County. Subscription rate is $28 annually. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Publisher expressly disclaims all liability for any occurrence that may arise as a consequence of the use of any information or recipes. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.
®
San Ysidro Ranch More awards than any other hotel/resort in the United States
The San Ysidro Ranch offers our heartfelt thanks to our many friends and family for your loving support during this time of devastation. Our hearts go out to our beautiful community and those who have suffered unspeakable loss. We are closed right now, but we are rebuilding and restoring the property. Please stay tuned for more updates as we open back up in phases this year.
SanYsidroRanch.com
Local. Especially Now.
Edible always encourages eating,
drinking and shopping local. Now more than ever, we all need to support the businesses who suffered during and after the devastating fires, smoke, mudslides and road closures.
We thank our communities, residents, businesses and rescue personnel — thank you for your strength, courage, unity and the generous outpouring of love given over the last few months. We are extremely proud to call Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties our homes.
8 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
edible
Ojai & Ventura County
WITH LOVE & SUPPORT FOR OUR SANTA BARBARA COMMUNITY
BRAGG ESTABLISHED 1912 BRAGG Organic Apple Cider Vinegar ®
“I love BRAGG Vinegar Drinks. They’re my secret of all secrets.”
Drinks in 7 Flavors!
– KATY PERRY, Singer
Apple Cider Vinegar was first used by Hippocrates, Father of Medicine, in I00 BC for its amazing natural Cleansing, Healing & Energizing Health Qualities! Now you can get the Health Benefits of Bragg Apple Cider Vinegar in an energizing, refreshing health drink ! Take to work, school, gym and sports.
BRAGG ORGANIC Apple Cider Vinegar MIRACLE CLEANSE CONCENTRATE
NEW
32 oz Glass
A unique blend of all Organic Bragg Apple Cider Vinegar, honey, lemon juice and cayenne. Add I Tbsps to 8 oz. of water to cleanse & refresh anytime! NON-GMO Kosher Certified Gluten-Free
• • •
“I give thanks for my simple, easy-to-follow Bragg Healthy Lifestyle Program. You make my days Healthy!” – CLINT EASTWOOD, Bragg Follower 65 years
Patricia Bragg, ND, PhD. Pioneer Health Crusader Health Educator, Author YouTube.com/PatriciaBragg
NEW
DELICIOUS
SOY-FREE
COCONUT Liquid Aminos 16 & 32 oz Seasoning Glass
& Gallons
10 oz Glass
• Certified Organic • Gluten FREE • Raw & Unfiltered • No GMO’s • Kosher Certified • No Cane Sugar • No Preservatives • No Additives
16 & 32 oz Glass & Gallons
Delicious in smoothies salads, tea, veggies & stir-frys
Try all 8 BRAGG Delicious Dressings
16 & 32 oz Glass
12 12 oz oz Glass Glass
Hawaii Former US Surgeon General, Health Conference Dr. C. EVERETT KOOP said, “Paul Bragg did more for the Health of America than any one person I know of.” Dr. Koop & Dr. Patricia
Paul C. Bragg, ND, PhD. Originator Health Stores Life Extension Specialist BraggHawaiiExercise.com
®
.
BRAGG com
800- 6-1990
BRAGG PRODUCTS AVAILABLE IN HEALTH & GROCERY STORES WORLDWIDE
6 oz Spray, 16 & 32oz 10 oz Glass & Gallons
BRAGG Health Books All 10 $89. & Free Shipping in US. Visit Bragg.com
Cheesy Flavor tasty on soups, salads, veggies and popcorn! Shaker Top
NEW
VEG TIMES Magazine TASTE AWARD Shaker Top
With 20 Vitamins, Minerals & Herbs Shaker Top
Small Bites by Krista Harris & Rosminah Brown
Little cucumber seedlings, $1 for a six-pack.
Opportunity for Growth at the Sunday Farmers Market
Snacking on Wine Wine Rayzn Company
Did you ever wonder why wine grapes aren’t used to make raisins? We’ve wondered why we haven’t seen local wine grapes turned into raisins, but have discovered there is someone in Napa doing just that. Family owned and operated in Napa Valley, the Wine Rayzn Company offers three varietals of wine raisins, plus one that is chocolate covered: CabernayZyn, ChardonayZyn, MerlayZyn and dark-chocolate-covered CabernayZyn. The seeds make them crunchy, and they are tasty as a snack or as an addition to salads, cheese platters or desserts. And they have even more antioxidants than wine, since they are dried on the stem with the skins and seed intact. Wine Rayzyns are available at Pacific Health Foods in Carpinteria and online at Rayzyn.com.
10 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
Every one of our local farmers markets has unique benefits for visiting. At the Sunday market in Goleta, one such perk comes in small sprouts of inspiration. Devereux School (officially Devereux Advanced Behavioral Health California) has a vendor booth and they sell seedlings of assorted fruit, flowers and vegetables, including staple herbs like parsley, cilantro and thyme and seasonal items like tomatoes, kale, peppers and squash. Each pot is just $1, be it a four-inch container or a six-pack tray. This is a great way to start up a simple garden and take a chance on some plants that catch your eye. Like the Asian herb shiso—they sell both green and red varieties. All seedlings are grown at the Devereux greenhouse located on the picturesque Goleta coastline, run by the school’s Adult Day Program as a pre-vocation work opportunity. Participants share the proceeds from sales and gain greenhouse experience and we, the buyers, get a lush vegetable garden for just a few dollars. If you can’t get to the Sunday market, their greenhouse is open to the public for plant sales on Friday mornings. Both are worth a visit. The Sunday Farmers Market is located at El Camino Real Marketplace, 10am–2pm; SBFarmersMarket.org. To visit Devereux on Friday mornings, call 805 968-2525 for hours and directions. Also visit Devereux.org for more info.
Locally family owned and operated.
24 W Figueroa St 805 962-6611 TheSavoyCafe.com
Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Santa Barbara’s Premier Destination Wine Shop.
18 W Anapamu St 805 962-5353 SavoyWines.com
“Plenty of space for wine, no room for snobbery.”
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 11
Wine Tasting Tips When you live in or visit Santa Barbara, there is nothing like drinking local wine with our local food. If you are visiting, chances are you are planning to go wine tasting. But those of us who live here might forget from time to time how lucky we are to have so many world-class wineries and tasting rooms in close proximity. And there’s no better way to find out what wines you like and which ones you want to buy than to hit the tasting trail. You should expect to pay around $15 for a tasting, but the fee is often waived if you purchase wine or join the wine club. There is often value in joining the wine club, especially for locals who can opt to pick up their wine instead of having it shipped. If you taste a wine that you like, you should consider buying it on the spot. Often the specific vintages sell out and are not available outside the tasting room. Here are five more tips for getting the most out of your wine tasting experience:
Narrow Your Focus
With all the options out there, it can be hard to pick where to go and what to taste. Pick a geographic area, an AVA, a type of wine or a specific varietal to focus on. Then select wineries that more or less fit your criteria. Some tasting rooms will even let you narrow your options when tasting—choosing all white wines, for instance.
Try Something (or Learn Something) New
You might be narrowing your focus, but it’s also a good idea to keep your mind open to new things. Try a varietal that you think you don’t like—you might be surprised. Be inquisitive. Many tasting room managers and staff enjoy telling you the story behind the wines and can offer tips on what to pair it with.
Don’t Be Afraid to Dump (or Spit!)
If you are tasting at several wineries, you’ll definitely need to pace yourself. It’s not rude to taste just a bit and pour the remains of your glass in the dump bucket. Or you can do what the pros do—spit after tasting. It’s not uncouth to spit directly into a small paper cup that you can hold discretely in your hand and then dump the contents into the bucket as needed.
Be Considerate
Don’t wear perfume or strongly scented body products, for your own sake as well as others’. It’s difficult to appreciate the aroma and taste of a wine when there’s strong perfume nearby. You should also try not to have any lip balm or lipstick on when tasting. If your lips are chapped, try rubbing just a bit of grape seed oil on them ahead of tasting so it has time to sink in and won’t transfer to your wine and taste buds.
Keep Up Your Strength
12 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
Be sure to stay hydrated and well fed. A good rule of thumb is always to drink more water than wine. Eat a substantial breakfast before tasting, schedule a lunch in between tastings or snack if you start to feel hungry. If you are making a day of it, you might also try olive oil tasting as a break between winery visits. Sightseeing, a hike or a leisurely picnic are also good activities to intersperse with wine tasting.
We want to see and hear about your experiences. If you are wine tasting in Santa Barbara County, tag us on Instagram @ediblesb and #ediblesb. We will repost or share some of the images in upcoming issues.
— Krista Harris
shop local • eat well • be well #MontecitoStrong Open 365 days a year: 7am – 8pm 1482 E. Valley Rd.,Montecito, CA. 93108 805.969.1112 www.montecitogrocery.com
Education is the first step. Just ask tomorrow’s top chefs... The SBCC Promise removes financial barriers to ensure that all local high school graduates have access to an outstanding and affordable education at Santa Barbara City College.
Your gift makes the SBCC Promise possible. sbccpromise.org | (805) 730- 4416
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 13
in Season this spring Spring Produce
Year-Round Produce
Spring Seafood
Artichokes Apricots and apriums Asparagus Avocados Basil Blackberries Blueberries Broccoli rabe (rapini) Brussels sprouts Cabbage Cardoons Celery Chanterelle mushrooms Cherimoya Cherries Cilantro Collards Cucumber Dill Escarole Fava beans Fennel Garlic scapes Grapefruit Green garlic Kiwi Kumquats Limes Loquats Mulberries Mustard greens Nettles Onions, green bunching Papayas Pea greens Peas, shelling and snap Radishes Raspberries Rhubarb Strawberries Summer squash and blossoms Tangerines/Mandarins Tomatoes, hothouse Turnips
Almonds, almond butter
Mussels Ridgeback shrimp Rock fish Sardines Spot prawns White seabass
(harvested Aug/Sept)
Apples Arugula Beans, dried Beets Bok choy Broccoli Carrots Cauliflower Chard Dandelion Dates
(harvested Sept/Oct)
Garlic
(harvested May/June)
Herbs
(Bay leaf, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme)
Edible flowers Kale Leeks Lemons Lettuce Mushrooms Onions, bulb
(harvested May/June)
Oranges Pistachios, pistachio oil (harvested Sept/Oct)
Potatoes Radish Raisins
(harvested Sept/Oct)
Shallots Spinach Sprouts Squash, winter
Year-Round Seafood Abalone (farmed) Black cod Clams Oysters Rock crab Sanddabs Seaweed Urchin
Other Year-Round Eggs Coffee (limited availability) Dairy
(Regional raw milk, artisanal goat- and cow-milk cheeses, butters, curds, yogurts and spreads)
Fresh flowers Honey Olives, olive oil Meat
(Beef, chicken, duck, goat, rabbit, pork)
Potted plants/herbs Preserves Wheat
(Wheat berries, wheat flour, bread, pasta and baked goods produced from wheat grown locally)
(harvested July/Oct)
Walnuts, walnut oil (harvested Sept/Oct)
Yams
(harvested Aug/Sept)
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 15
seasonal
Brasato Beef and Vegetables in Red Wine
Recipes
In Italian, brasato means braised and Brasato al Barolo is a classic dish from Piedmont making use of their well-known wine. Here is our local version making use of ingredients all produced in Santa Barbara County. A local Italian varietal for the wine naturally works well— Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera or Sangiovese. Pick one that you like to drink but is not so crazy expensive that you will mind putting the whole bottle into this dish. You’ll want another bottle to serve along with the meal. Makes 6 –8 servings Boneless beef roast, approximately 3 pounds (chuck, rump roast or other cut with plenty of fat and sinew) 1 bottle of red wine Salt and pepper Olive oil 2 onions, finely chopped 2 carrots, finely chopped 2 stalks celery, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1–2 sprigs rosemary, 6– 8 sprigs thyme and 2 bay leaves, tied with a string
Egg Salad Sandwich What to do with your beautiful onion-skin-dyed Easter eggs? First on the list must be a classic egg salad sandwich. You have many variations to choose from so you won’t get tired of them, even if you’ve made dozens of eggs. Makes 2 sandwiches 3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons mayonnaise or 1 tablespoon mayonnaise and 1 tablespoon crème fraiche Salt and pepper, to taste
Additions: • A tablespoon of something crunchy, such as capers, chopped celery, chopped pickled vegetables, chopped radishes or chopped onion • A sprinkling of chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, cilantro, chervil or tarragon • A dash of something tangy, such as lemon or lime juice, or the pickled juice or caper brine if you used either of those or a dash of white wine vinegar Bread (sliced bread, baguette, bagel, roll, croissant or slider bun) Additional pickled vegetables (optional) Lettuce
JOSHUA CURRY
Additional mayonnaise and/or mustard (optional)
Combine the eggs, mayonnaise, seasoning and additions and mix until incorporated but with 16 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING SPRING 2018 2018a still chunky texture. Taste and add more seasoning or additions if needed.
1 cup beef broth, as needed
Season the beef with salt and pepper. Heat a couple tablespoons of olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown the meat a few minutes on all sides and remove from pan. Add a little more olive oil and then add the onions, carrots, celery and garlic and sauté until slightly colored. Add beef, the wine and the bundled herbs. The liquid should come up about 2/3 of the way on the meat. Bring to a boil and then turn the heat to low, cover and simmer for 2 –3 hours, or until the beef is completely tender. You may want to turn it every 30 minutes or so to keep the top from drying out. Remove the meat and set aside in a warm place or loosely covered with foil. Remove and discard the herbs. Strain the pan juices into a bowl and reserve the vegetables. Heat a couple tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the vegetables and 1 cup of the pan juices. Mash the vegetables with a potato masher and cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid evaporates. Stir in the remaining pan juices and as much of the broth and a little extra olive oil as needed to create a sauce-like consistency. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Slice the meat against the grain and arrange it on a platter with the sauce. — Krista Harris
F R I E N D S
•
F L O W E R S
•
F A M I L Y
•
F O O D
•
F U N
Enjoy Summer at the
7 Markets 6 Days a Week Rain or Shine
What’s in your basket this week? S AT U R D AY S
T U E S D AY S
T H U R S D AY S
F R I D AY S
Downtown Santa Barbara
Old Town Santa Barbara
Camino Real Marketplace
Montecito
Corner of Santa Barbara & Cota Street 8:30am – 1:00pm
500 & 600 Blocks of State Street 4:00pm – 7:30pm
In Goleta at Storke & Hollister 3:00pm – 6:00pm
100 & 1200 Block of Coast Village Road 8:00am – 11:15am
S U N D AY S
W E D N E S D AY S
Camino Real Marketplace
Solvang Village
In Goleta at Storke & Hollister 10:00am – 2:00pm
Copenhagen Drive & 1st Street 2:30pm – 6:30pm
Carpinteria 800 Block of Linden Avenue 3:00pm – 6:30pm
www.sbfarmersmarket.org (805) 962-5354
facebook.com/SBFarmersMarket
Braised Vegetables in Red Wine
seasonal
Recipes
You could think of this as a vegetarian or vegan alternative to a Brasato al Barolo, but it will appeal to anyone who wants a hearty, delicious entree, and it has the added bonus of taking much less time. As with the Brasato, you’ll want to pick an Italian varietal that you like to drink, and there will be some left over to serve or to sip while you are cooking. This is delicious served over polenta with some freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Makes 6 –8 servings Olive oil 1 teaspoon herbs de Provence 2 cups mushrooms, sliced Salt and pepper 1
⁄ 2 cup shelled peas or fava beans
1 bunch spring onions, bulbs quartered, halved or left whole if very small and some of the green tops finely chopped for garnish 4–5 small to medium rainbow carrots, cut into 1 ⁄ 2 -inch angled slices 2 stalks celery, cut into 1 ⁄ 2 -inch angled slices 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 tablespoon butter (or vegan butter) 2 tablespoons flour (or gluten-free flour) 2 cups red wine 1–11 ⁄ 2 cups vegetable broth Parmesan cheese, grated (optional garnish)
Heat a couple tablespoons of olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium high heat. Add the herbs de Provence and sauté the mushrooms until slightly brown, remove from pan and set aside. Add a little more olive oil and then add the peas, onions, carrots, celery, garlic and season with salt and pepper. Sauté until slightly browned. Remove and set aside. Add the butter to the pan and, when melted, whisk in the flour. When the flour is incorporated, add the wine and continue whisking until combined. Cook for a few minutes and add the vegetable broth, bringing to a boil and letting it reduce and thicken. Season with salt and pepper. Then lower the heat and add back in the mushrooms and reserved vegetables. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Continue to cook for another 10–15 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Serve on a deep platter or serving bowl by itself or over polenta. Garnish with a sprinkling of the green onion tops and serve with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.
JOSHUA CURRY
— Krista Harris
18 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
LAMA DOG
TAP ROOM + BOTTLE SHOP
• 20 REVOLVING CRAFT BEER TAPS • WINE ON TAP + IN THE BOTTLE • BOTTLE SHOP WITH OVER 300 DISTINCT BEERS • BEER CLASSES, TAP TAKEOVERS + ART MARKETS
CONNECT WITH US ON FB + IG FOR EVENTS + CLASSES: @LAMADOGTAPROOM
ONLY GOOD BEER OPEN @11:30am EVERY DAY
IN THE FUNK ZONE
FOOD FROM THE NOOK 116 SANTA BARBARA ST. | 805.880.3364 | LamaDog.com
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 19
EDIBLE GARDEN
Ash Aftermath by Joan S. Bolton
Fire and ash have played prominent roles in cultivating land for centuries.
S
pring is a time of new beginnings, especially in the garden. Most years, that fresh start includes clearing out the tattered remains of previous crops and renewing fertility by applying nutrients, tilling in cover crops or working in earthy-scented, lifeaffirming compost to jump-start the biological activity beneath the surface and improve the soil texture throughout. But this spring, there’s an additional consideration: the question of whether the prodigious ash that the Thomas Fire deposited in every nook and cranny outdoors will have a deleterious effect on our gardens, be that to our soil; our permanent fruit trees, grapes and berries; or the new edibles that we plant in the months ahead. Take a deep breath. Thankfully, there’s little worry. Truly, all that ash may even be a plus, delivering a nice dose of potassium, which is an essential element for healthy plant growth and the third of the three letters—N-P-K—in fertilizer. 20 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
Your Odds Are Good Unlike the Santa Rosa Fire last October, which raged through both wildland and city neighborhoods, the Thomas Fire primarily burned wildland. Nearly all of our ash came from trees, shrubs and other chaparral. There was little in the way of manmade materials that could contain potential toxins. Our ash was relatively clean, plant-based material. Also keep in mind that fire and ash have played prominent roles in cultivating land for centuries. Ancient Mayans practiced milpa, slash-and-burn techniques to create new, fertile planting grounds by chopping down sections of forest, then burning the downed vegetation to generate potassiumrich ash that boosted the growth and productivity of their crops. As early as the 1400s, farmers applied a condensed version of wood ash—potash—to their fields. Back then, potash was made by reducing wood ash to a fine powder in pots of boiling water.
JEFFREY BLOOM PHOTOGRAPHY
Elevated Central Coast Comfort Food Extensive Santa Barbara County Beer + Wine List Winemaker Dinners • Private Events • Catering
Tuesday–Sunday Breakfast and Lunch 8am–3pm Dinner Friday Only 5:30–8:00pm Closed Monday 508 Bell Street • Los Alamos, CA 93440 Tel: 805-344-3020 • plentyonbell@gmail.com www.plentyonbell.com
FOXEN
®
V I N E YA R D & W I N E R Y
Wines of Elegance & Balance Since 1985 Solar powered. Sustainable wine growers. Open Daily 11– 4 | 7200 & 7600 Foxen Canyon Road | 805.937.4251 | FoxenVineyard.com EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 21
While potassium is generally present in most soils, its utility in clay and in dry soils can be limited, as it tends to bind to soil minerals rather being available to plants. This can be problematic for permanent edibles, such as fruit and nut trees, berry bushes and grapes, all of which may be planted in native soil that’s reluctant to release potassium. For these plants, Thomas Fire ash may provide a welcome bonus. Likewise, while you’re presumably cultivating your edibles in fertile, well-drained beds rather than in native soil, the new ash can still be a valuable supplement. Indeed, many organic gardeners apply potash to their beds in late winter or early spring every year. Vineyard managers commonly do so as well, as potassium strengthens the vines’ ability to resist disease and boosts fruit development, size and flavor. If you’re still not convinced, think back to how plants have behaved after other wildfires. Roses are one of the most demonstrable beneficiaries of ash, reliably producing extraspectacular blooms the first year after a big fire.
On the Flip Side
Nearly all of our ash came from trees, shrubs and other chaparral.
Today, most potash is mined in the form of potassiumcontaining salts (potassium chloride or muriate of potash, also known as MOP) from underground seabeds. It’s typically applied to commercial carbohydrate crops, such as wheat, oats and barley, that can tolerate added salt. A second form of manufactured potash, sulfate of potassium (SOP) does not contain chloride or salt and is best for the saltsensitive edibles that we home gardeners often grow, including many vegetables, fruits and nuts. Fireplace ash and bits of charcoal—provided they’re the untreated remnants of hardwood, not fake logs—are another source of potassium. Many of us add the remains, which also include phosphorus and micronutrients, to our compost piles.
How Potassium Works First, regarding those N-P-K fertilizer labels—N stands for nitrogen, which promotes green, leafy growth above ground. P represents phosphorous, which helps with root development and flowering. K is potassium or potash (the two words are often used interchangeably) and is responsible for overall plant vigor and health. To wit, potassium aids photosynthesis, helps roots extract nutrients from the soil, regulates proteins and starches in a way that contributes to a plant’s ability to stand erect, and enhances flowering and fruiting. 22 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
But there are steps to take if you’re still concerned that your garden accumulated too much of a good thing. Avoid fertilizing with a product that contains a high K number. Double-dig or rototill at least the first foot of soil to disperse the ash. Over the course of a few months, push the ash deeper into the soil by soaking the area each time the top inch dries out. Better yet, use compost instead of commercial fertilizer. While compost does contain the big three—nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium—it breaks down slowly, so is not likely to overwhelm your edibles. Compost contains important trace elements and beneficial micro-organisms that will improve the texture and drainage capabilities of your soil as well.
Potassium and Particular Plants Because potassium boosts flowers and fruits, your flowering and fruiting plants will benefit the most from replenishing it on a regular basis. The list starts with fruit trees, including avocado, citrus, pome fruit such as apples and pears; stone fruit such as apricots, nectarines, peaches and plums; and nut trees, including almonds, macadamias, pistachios and walnuts. Also think bushes and vines that bear edible fruit, such as blackberries and raspberries, along with grapes, kiwi and passionfruit. Vegetables, including tomatoes, melons, potatoes, pumpkins and squash, round out the list. Note that edibles grown for their leaves, such as salad greens, kale and the like, don’t have as high a demand. Their greatest need is for nitrogen to fuel and sustain their foliage. But all edibles require at least some potassium, whether the source is fertilizer, compost or ash from wildland fire. Joan S. Bolton is a freelance writer, garden coach and garden designer who confesses to a lifelong love affair with plants. She and her husband, Tom, have filled their four-acre property in western Goleta with natives and other colorful, water-conserving plants. They also maintain avocado, citrus and fruit trees and grow vegetables and herbs year-round. SantaBarbaraGardens.com
ChocolateMaya.com 15 West Gutierrez Street • Santa Barbara, California 93101 Phone: (805) 965-5956 Fax: (805) 563-1263
Monday–Friday 10am–6pm, Saturday 10am–5pm, Sunday 10am– 4pm
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 23
DRINKABLE LANDSCAPE
OLIVER’S Offers
Montecito Sunshine
W
hile it’s tricky to make a pitch that drinking alcohol is actually good for you, this issue’s cocktail is up to that challenge. After all, how many drinks help you consume more vegetables? How many let you exercise, for you will, giving it a vigorous stir with a carrot you then get to gnaw upon, a highly antioxidant snack? Welcome to the Little Miss Sunshine. Given the horror and hardship that has befallen Montecito in the aftermath of the Thomas Fire and Mudslides, it seemed that turning to a business there for cocktail inspiration this spring might be a good way to remind the world of the culinary best Montecito has to offer. Even better, Coast Village Road saw the opening of the long-awaited Oliver’s in October 2017, only for its launch to get interrupted for weeks thanks to natural disaster. Luckily, the spot that used to be Peabody’s suffered no mud damage itself, so once again this classy but comfortable plant-based restaurant is ready to please your nonmeat-eating palate. One of its signatures is a cocktail list that works with the Juice Ranch, a company founded in Santa Barbara that sources 90% of its produce from Santa Barbara County farms. All its product is cold-pressed and organic. “Everything they stand for 24 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING SPRING 2018 2018
we stand for,” says Phillip Thompson, assistant GM at Oliver’s. “They stand for freshness and quality of ingredients. We knew we wanted to do liquor and alcohol, and working with them was how we could bring the healthful idea to cocktails —it was a perfect match.” A marathon tasting session with Juice Ranch co-founder Scott Walker, Oliver’s head bartender Josh Burrey and Thompson led to a fascinating list of juice-forward cocktails for the new establishment. Thompson suggested the Little Miss Sunshine — named after its base Juice Ranch juice of carrot, grapefruit, orange, ginger, mint—for a spring potent potable for Edible. “Just as the weather is getting warmer and the days are getting longer,” he says, “this drink has a market-fresh, bright, crisp mix of flavors.” Plus the carrot, pardon the pun, gives it a rootedness most cocktails never match. The drink’s zip comes from gin, and Thompson has a specific suggestion there, too, calling for Greenbar Organic City Bright Gin. Greenbar, when it opened in 2004, was LA’s first distillery since Prohibition, so that’s early on for the craft spirits craze. The Bright Gin isn’t a typical style, either, as its botanicals wander wide beyond just the usual juniper to more exotic realms with ancho chiles, lemongrass and kaffir lime.
STEVEN BROWN
by G eorge Yatchisin
Little Miss Sunshine Makes 2 cocktails 4 ounces Greenbar Organic City Bright Gin (or preferred gin) 6 ounces Little Miss Sunshine (from Juice Ranch)
A Trip to Italy , without the Jet Lag…
½ ounce fresh lemon juice ½ ounce agave nectar 2 dashes orange bitters 2 (4-inch-long) carrots, peeled
Add all the ingredients except the carrots to a shaker full of ice. Give a swirl or 2. Strain into 2 bucket-of-rocks glasses with ice. Garnish each with a carrot. Advise drinkers to stir with carrot as necessary. Eating this stirrer will also be necessary.
Somehow the pushing at the edges of the traditional still stays in pleasing balance, especially mixed into this delight. That said, Thompson says the drink works well with the gin of your choice (well, don’t go genever or navy strength) and the bar can whip up a version with Cutler’s gin or even Nolet’s, if you’re willing to pay for that and want to taste it with as many floral notes as anyone short of a florist can stand. And while you might think, “Hey, this cocktail already has carrot, grapefruit, orange, ginger and mint in it, it’s gotta be OK to skip that lemon juice,” you better think again. First, keep the measurement exact, as too much lemon becomes an acidic issue. But at a half ounce for two drinks, the fresh lemon juice acts more as a chemical agent than a flavor. Remember those old 3M ads about “we don’t make ____, we make it better?” That’s what lemon juice does here — perking everything up, adding brightness like you can with a slider in Photoshop. That’s particularly important with a drink that could get weighed down with the carrot. Which brings us to another important consideration with drinks made based on Juice Ranch products: Using them is not like just adding a clearer fresh citrus juice; it’s all about pulp and texture. That’s great when it’s all you’re drinking for a liquid breakfast and you haven’t spiked it and still want to feel like you ate something even if you didn’t use your teeth, but in a cocktail it causes some issues. Thompson suggests mixing the ingredient over ice, then pouring over ice into a large tumbler, skipping the stirring or shaking. Yes, the drink will start to separate after a bit, but that’s why you garnish it with a whole carrot that ends up a stirrer, a snack, a conversation piece. “We serve many of our drinks with oversized garnishes,” Thompson says, “almost in a kitschy way.” It just happens to be delicious, too. George Yatchisin happily eats, drinks and writes in Santa Barbara. He blogs at GeorgeEats.com.
Delighting Customers Since 2007 2014 Certificate of Excellence Winner from Trip Advisor Offering Gluten-Free Pasta Weekdays: Lunch 11am – 3pm; Dinner 5–9pm Weekends: Lunch 12– 3pm; Dinner 5– 9:30pm Closed Tuesday 666 Linden Ave., Downtown Carpinteria 805 684-0720 • Giannfrancos.com Follow us on Facebook at Giannfranco’s Trattoria
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 25
GLOBAL LOCAL CUISINE
Santa Barbara spot prawns.
Thai Ocean-Influenced Cuisine by Laura Booras PHOTOGRAPHY BY WIL FERNANDEZ
I
took my first Thai cooking class back in Durham, during my time at University of North Carolina. I fell in love with the food immediately—the savory spices, the slightly sweet coconut, even the malodorous fish sauce. But truly, until my visit five years ago, I had no idea what a wonderful country Thailand is. The flowers, the beaches, the temples… If seeing rehabilitated tigers and elephants was not enough, the food certainly took the experience over the top. In additional cooking classes there, I learned the tricks to make perfect curries, and used the tiny Thai eggplants that look like huge green peas in as many dishes as I could. It was at once thrilling and exotic and I couldn’t get enough. Thai food is extremely diverse, but some essential ingredients tie the different regional cuisines together. Coconut milk, slightly sweet and thick, forms the base of most of the 26 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
popular curries, but also plays a role in various sauces and other dishes. Another essential ingredient, fish sauce, is a condiment made from fish coated in salt and fermented—sometimes up to two years. It adds essential umami to Thai dishes and, though it smells slightly funky, it adds a vital element. Thai people use many different types of proteins in their food, from eggs to pork and beef, but the seafood dishes are the ones that usually stand out to me. Luckily, here in Santa Barbara we have an abundance of fresh, beautiful seafood. I recently paid a visit to the Santa Barbara Fish Market, where you can buy fresh, local lobsters and crabs right out of the water. Tanya Topinko took us to the docks to show us the spiny lobster traps, filled to the brim with huge lobsters. “The feisty ones taste the best,” she told me. “They flip their tails hard because they don’t have front claws
A Truly Tasteful Experience!
Santa Barbara Spot Prawn Green Curry Makes 6 servings 4 tablespoons coconut oil 2 Japanese eggplants, cut in half lengthwise then sliced 1 pound Santa Barbara spot prawns
San Roque Plaza 3401 State St., Santa Barbara M–F 11am–6pm, Sat 11am–5pm
888 798-4740
Santa Barbara Public Market 38 West Victoria St., Santa Barbara Daily 10am–8pm
•
ilfustino.com
2 tablespoons chopped garlic 2 tablespoons crushed ginger 1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk 4 – 6 tablespoons green curry paste (depending on how spicy you like your curry) 2 tablespoons fish sauce 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 tablespoon brown sugar 3
⁄ 4 cup green peas
Juice of 1 lime 1
⁄ 4 cup chopped cilantro
In a large skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the coconut oil. Add the eggplant and brown on each side for about 3 minutes per side. Remove from skillet and set aside. Melt the remaining coconut oil, then add the ginger and garlic. Stir until fragrant, about a minute. Add ¼ of the can of coconut milk and the curry paste and warm over medium heat. Once the oil separates just slightly from the coconut milk, add the rest of the can. Simmer for a few minutes until thick. Add the fish sauce, soy sauce and brown sugar. Add the rinsed spot prawns and make sure they are in a single layer. Simmer for about 4 minutes, until the prawns are cooked through. Add the eggplant, peas and lime juice. Serve topped with cilantro.
Real
FOOD you f e e l
that makes
GOOD Goleta
5668 Calle Real Goleta, CA 93117 805.770.2730
Next to Panino, Across from Trader Joe’s
Downtown
331 Motor Way Santa Barbara, CA 93101 805.845.5379 Corner of State and Gutierrez
La Cumbre
3849 State St. Suite i157 Santa Barbara, CA 93105 805.569.0011 In La Cumbre Plaza, next to Vons
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 27
like other lobsters.” When lobsters aren’t in season, you can’t go wrong with local crab. Another one of Santa Barbara’s local luxuries we are lucky to enjoy are the spot prawns. These almost melt in your mouth and the flavor is subtle yet intriguing. Simmering the prawns for a few minutes in coconut milk produces a decadent curry that will transport you to a gorgeous Thai beach for a few minutes. Serving it over brown rice means you can soak up every bit of the delicious coconut milk. I like to round out the seafood dishes above with a noodle dish with vegetables, and then a simple dessert that usually involves fruit. Rice noodles are comfort food, and a salty sauce made with soy and fish sauce makes the perfect accompaniment. For dessert, pineapple caramelized in butter tops off the meal with a smile. Thailand for me means warm, sunny beaches with crystal clear water, exotic and flavorful foods full of fresh vegetables, fresh seafood right out of the water and the kindness and hospitality of the people. There is something about Thailand that captures your heart. I find this true for Santa Barbara County as well; even though we are a long way from Thailand, you can evoke some of that ocean-influenced living right here. Laura Booras is the general manager at Riverbench Vineyard & Winery in the Santa Maria Valley. She lives on the vineyard, where she regularly hosts food writers, celebrity chefs and wine critics for unique meals prepared with locally sourced ingredients.
Tanya Topinko shows Laura some of the spiny lobsters.
28 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
Thai Cuisine Menu • Santa
S
Barbara Spot Prawn Green Curry Barbara Rock Crab or Spiny Lobster with Ginger Sauce • Thai Noodles with Vegetables • Vanilla Ice Cream with Warm Pineapple and Coconut • Santa
WINE NOTES 2016 C Nagy Gewurztraminer—Fresh, light and full of stone fruit, this lovely wine pairs exquisitely with the foods here. CNagyWines.com 2016 Zaca Mesa Z Gris—Rosé accompanies the flavors in Thai food, balancing out some of the subtle heat in the dishes here. ZacaMesa.com 2015 Bravo Pinot Gris—The brightness of this wine is a perfect match for these foods—or any seafood, for that matter! BravoWineCompany.com
For recipes mentioned in this article, visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com/global
Bank on better. When you know your bankers and they know you, solutions happen. N EW
!
Business Banking | Personal Banking | Business Loans | Residential Lending
BU E L LTO N W I N E RY
D OW N TOW N TA S T I N G R O O M S
sat & sun 11-5 59 industrial way, buellton
m-w 12-5 / th-sun 12-6 813 anacapa st. santa barbara 805-845-8435
(behind figueroa mtn. brew)
805-686-8500
AmericanRivieraBank.com • 805.965.5942 WINE IS GOOD LIVING®
Santa Barbara • Montecito • Goleta • Paso Robles
www.margerumwines.com
B E L M O N D E L E N C A N TO, SA N TA B A R B A RA
JOIN US TO CELEBRATE OUR 100-YEAR ANNIVERSARY El Encanto first opened its doors to welcome visitors and locals in 1918. In commemoration of this historic event, we’ve put together a year-long celebration that includes exclusive offers, special events and community activities that pay tribute to the past, present and future of our enchanting resort. For more information and reservations, please call 805 845 5800 or visit belmond.com/elencanto
800 ALVARADO PLACE, SANTA BARBARA, CA 93103 | 805 845 5800 EE Edible SB halfpage F&B 100-Year Anniversary ad 1217.indd 1
12/11/17 3:00 PM EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 29
EDIBLE DIY
Nocino
A Taste of Italy in Our Backyard Words and Photos by Rosminah Brown
30 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
“… and still when spring climbed toward summer You opened once more the curled fingers Of newborn leaves as though nothing had happened You and the seasons spoke the same language…” — Elegy for a Walnut Tree, W.S. Merwin
I
n late spring, the walnuts are still green and it’s time to pick them and make nocino—a dark and sweet Italian liqueur. If you’ve spent time in Italy, a sip of nocino can feel like a taste of that country. Nocino is a form of Amaro, or “bitter,” that is an herbal liqueur—a combination of herbs, barks, flowers and citrus peels infused in a neutral spirit, or wine, and left to age for months or sometimes years to develop a bittersweet flavor. Nocino specifically uses unripe green walnuts with additional flavorings from clove, cinnamon, citrus peel and vanilla. Depending on whether you’re a maker or a consumer of nocino, it is associated with both the summer and winter solstice. In Italy it is traditionally around summer solstice or St. John’s Day on June 24 when the green walnuts are picked and infused with spices in alcohol, then left to develop into liqueur. Winter solstice is when the bottles are first opened and consumed. Patience is a virtue here, as it takes a minimum of six months for the strong bitter flavors to mellow. It would not be unreasonable for nocino to sit for upwards of two years. Regardless, it is a delightful beverage to consume year round. Serve it in small digestif glasses simply as nocino. It can also replace bitters in cocktail recipes, be added to an espresso or drizzled over ice cream. In Santa Barbara County we can make our own nocino, but because the climate is warmer than northern Italy, we might have to pick the walnuts before Summer Solstice. Once the shells of the walnut harden, it is too late to make nocino. Should you have a walnut tree available to you, check the growing walnuts by cutting one open. It will be pale inside, the odd brain shape of the eventual nut will be clear and slightly gelatinous. Wear gloves for this: Once the exposed walnut begins oxidizing, it will darken along with anything else it has touched. Bigger green walnuts will have more flavor to extract, but if you wait too long they will start to mature and become too hard to slice. Once that happens, you will just have walnuts, and no nocino.
Some of the spices that can be used in Nocino.
Opposite: A walnut tree in late spring with green walnuts.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 31
Freshly gathered green walnuts are cut into pieces, placed in glass bottles with spices and then the bottles are filled to the brim with Everclear.
32 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
European walnuts are used in Italian nocino, and by all means use them if you have access to green ones. Up in the Santa Rita Hills between Lompoc and Buellton are the picturesque walnut groves of Rancho La Viña. The organic walnut trees are visible from Santa Rosa Road, spread over 120 acres, and have been in production since 1920. You might also have an English walnut tree growing in your garden, with nuts you’ve been shaking out of the tree in autumn. There is also a native black walnut, Juglans californica, growing in our untamed yards and hills, particularly around slopes and canyons near streams or natural seeps. The Chumash of the area ate the nuts, but in modern times these walnuts are too thick-shelled to have commercial value. The trees, however, make sturdy rootstock for California-grown European walnuts. And it turns out these smaller native black walnuts are just fine for making local nocino. You’ll just need more of them, and these might also need to be picked sooner, depending on your growing conditions. Check to see if you have one growing near you, confirm they are not sprayed by chemicals and get permission to pick some of the green walnuts. Then get together with a few friends to celebrate the season by making nocino.
Sarita’s Nocino I first tackled homemade nocino with a group of friends in downtown Santa Barbara, just around summer in 2008. My friend Sarita had been watching the walnuts ripening in her backyard and declared them to be just right. It was also a three-day weekend, and nobody needed any excuse to come together to brunch, grill and—for the liqueur-inspired—start some batches of nocino. We had no experience making it; it was one big experiment. We did know to wear gloves to keep our hands from getting stained. Most of us brought cheap store-brand vodka in plastic bottles. Matthew, the smart one, brought Everclear, pointing out that the higher proof would extract more flavor. And once it was diluted with simple syrup, it would roughly end up around 80 proof. Matthew was also the smart one to make a spice concoction primarily of vanilla, with a few citrus peels and a tiny pinch of clove, which he removed after a week. The rest of us threw in lavish amounts of clove, cinnamon and star anise, making a deep infusion that stayed in the jars as long as the walnuts did. Only Matthew’s was drinkable six months down the line. The rest of us ended up with darkly strong, potent and bitter liqueur that could pass as medicine but not a digestif. I decided to give mine another half year to mellow out. Then a year and another year. It’s now 2018 and I can now say my first nocino is finally coming into its own. Which is a nice way of saying I cannot believe I let it stick around for a decade in the vague hope it would evolve into something enjoyable. But it did.
Edible’s Nocino Inspiration hit me again. This time I looked to the natural bounty of the California black walnut which Pascal Baudar, author of the New Wildcrafted Cuisine, confirms is ideal for EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 33
nocino (or for pickling). The nuts themselves are small and so thick-shelled they are difficult to consume traditionally as nuts. But their flavor is stronger and the color extracted is a deep, intense black with a hint of dark green if the sunlight hits it just right. My home in the Santa Barbara foothills has patches of native growth adjacent in a small canyon. After aging at least six months, the nocino is Stomping around ready for tasting. just a hundred feet from my back door in the wild grasses and shrubs brought me to a small walnut tree right under an oak with just enough green walnuts within my reach for a liter of high-proof vodka. Within minutes of chopping the walnuts, the alcohol started turning dark. Less than 24 hours in I could no longer see through the glass bottle. I added some lemon peel, a couple cloves and several torn-up pods of vanilla to the infusion. It looked deeply dark and exciting. Meanwhile, up in Los Alamos, my editor had a mature English walnut tree in her backyard. It was a perfect day with blue skies, a few clouds, and the summer heat had not yet begun to bear down on us. It only took a few minutes to pick enough green walnuts for two bottles of nocino. We decided to flavor each bottle differently, with one taking a modest amount but the full range of optional spices—clove, star anise, coffee beans, orange peel and vanilla pods, while the other just had vanilla and a bit of lemon peel so that a truer flavor of walnut could come out. The English walnuts did not pull out as much color as quickly as the native black walnuts did. It took a couple days for the vodka to become a dark but still transparent green. But this was fine—it had six months to transform. True to expectations, the more traditionally spiced nocino evoked memories of Italy for those who’d traveled there. It was dark, spicy and sweet. But the simpler infusion that used just lemon peel and vanilla brought the walnut flavor to the front and wowed us—it was the favorite. Was it authentic? For Italy, probably not, but we are not in Italy. It’s authentically a flavor for Santa Barbara. No wonder we love it. Sadly, shortly after my batch of wild walnut nocino was set to infuse, the mother tree near my home was cut down. Nevertheless, despite our meddling, she will persist, resprout and grow again, although it will take years. What remains now are some stalk-like stumps and a couple valuable jars of dark fragrant liqueur that will not be taken for granted. 34 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
Nocino 1 liter of high-proof neutral spirit, like Everclear 25 unripened green English walnuts or 40 – 50 California native black walnuts Zest of 1 orange or lemon 2 cloves 1-inch stick of cinnamon 2–3 vanilla pods Optional spices: 2 allspice berries, 10 coffee beans, half a star anise pod can be added, but these spices can easily become too strong (don’t say I didn’t warn you) 1 cup sugar 1
⁄ 2 cup water
Additional water (see note below: “Proof Is Important”)
Using gloves, chop the green walnuts into quarters or smaller and place them into a 1- to 2-quart sealable jar. Slice the vanilla pods in half, lengthways, scrape out the seeds and add seeds and pods to the jar. Add the citrus peel, cloves, cinnamon and optional spices. Pour over the alcohol and give the mixture a stir. It will start oxidizing within minutes, and start turning yellow, then green, then it will become dark over a few days. Seal the jar and set it aside. The first week give the jar a shake each day. After a week, open it and (wearing gloves) remove the spices and peel, letting the vanilla and walnuts remain. Let it sit for a minimum of 40 days. Then strain out the walnuts and citrus peel. Make a simple syrup by bringing the sugar and water to a boil in a small saucepan until the sugar dissolves and thickens slightly. Let it cool, and add this to the infused alcohol. Seal the jar again and let it sit for another 40 days minimum. The flavor will keep mellowing with more time. Finally, use a fine chinois or coffee filters to strain out any remaining particles and bottle it in clear glass to show off its fine dark hue. Add additional water to bring your nocino to an alcohol proof of about 80%, and how much you add depends on the proof you began with (see “Proof Is Important” section). The longer the liqueur is stored, the better, up to two years. The trick is letting it last that long.
Proof Is Important The higher the proof of your spirit, the faster and more thoroughly your flavors will be extracted. The final product should be around 80 proof, so you will need to calculate how much water to dilute your liqueur with and also factor in that some of the water will be coming from the simple syrup that sweetens your nocino. If you are using Everclear, the proof is around 150. One liter diluted down to 80 proof will need about 880 milliliters of water. Half a cup of water for the syrup is about 117 milliliters, so subtract that from the total amount, and it takes about 760 milliliters of additional water needed for 80 proof. A lower-proof alcohol will be diluted less. This does not need to be perfect and exact; the ballpark calculations will be fine.
Rosminah Brown is a Santa Barbara native who types fast and eats slow. She is sad for the loss of her walnut tree, which is also a Santa Barbara native, and hopes it will start anew, as though nothing had happened. But just in case, she saved some seeds for planting.
World Class Chardonnays & Pinot Noirs Sta. Rita Hills Beauty Industrial-chic Atmosphere Old School Customer Service Vintage Vinyl & Eclectic Finds VINEYARD TASTING LOUNGE | 5175 E Hwy 246, Lompoc SB WINE COLLECTIVE | 131 Anacapa St., in the Funk Zone
REVOLUTIONARY FARMING babcockwinery.com
1 1 0 1 stat e
5 2 8 anacapa
2 5 0 stor ke R D
d u n eco f f e e r oast e rs.com
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 35
EDIBLE VOICES
A Montecito Story by Kathi King
M
DAVID ME THVEN SCHR ADER
y husband, Jeff, and I moved to Montecito in 1998 to escape the fast pace of Los Angeles and to raise our kids in this semi-rural area with a strong sense of community. We connected with other parents right away and enjoyed dinners in each others’ homes while the kids played together. Jeff is a wonderful cook and he quickly became a regular at our Friday farmers market and grew vegetables in our yard. I volunteered for our school’s PTA and Jeff coached youth basketball and baseball. His signature chocolate chip cookies became a favorite post-game treat. As our children grew, I took classes at Santa Barbara Community College for post-graduate work in environmental studies, following my dream of working to make the world a healthier place for my children’s generation. My new job skills and connections led me to the Community Environmental Council, where I have been on staff since 2008. When we first moved to the Central Coast, we marveled at how much more temperate this area was than Los Angeles. Back then the saying went that “you need air conditioning in Santa Barbara five days a year.” But changes in Santa Barbara County’s climate have been evident to us during the past decade. We have experienced a major drought since 2011 and endured several fires, events that endangered lives, necessitated large-scale evacuations and destroyed structures. And we started to hear people saying that air conditioning is needed far more than “five days a year.” (continued on page 38)
36 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
Extra virgin olive oils, flavored olive oils, olive tapenades, table olives, gourmet vinegars, local food products.
Open Daily 11–5
2901 Grand Ave., Los Olivos 805 693-0700 olivehillfarm.com
Purveyors of European & Domestic Cheeses, Charcuterie and Specialty Foods
Fresh Meats & Poultry Niman Ranch Ham Cascade Creek Lamb Goose, Duck & Pheasant Exotic Meats
OPEN DAILY
Full Service Deli Local Wine & Beer Gourmet Cheese Charcuterie Cheese Pairings
Gift Certificates Gift Baskets Catering Party Platters & Bowls BBQ Saturdays Lunch & Picnic Boxes
Now Open for Breakfast | We’ll be moving to a new location soon
115 East College Avenue, Ste 10, Lompoc, CA 93436 805.717.7675
CentralCoastSpecialtyFoods.com
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 37
On December 4, 2017, the Thomas Fire started, fed They passed the word to the 15 or so other cars in the same by strong Santa Ana winds and dry brush that hadn’t seen situation and helped people out of their cars as needed. significant rain in nearly 200 days. My family was evacuated on Jeff called his friend Dave, who lives near the Montecito December 9 and was out of our home for two weeks. During YMCA and has a four-wheel-drive van. Dave called me and that time, the air quality in Santa Barbara was comparable to together we figured out my position. By then I had gotten fully that of the most polluted places in the world. into the tree as my car felt less steady and I watched a long black We settled back home just before Christmas. It felt like tube that might have been a live wire snake around the back we’d hardly been home at all before another evacuation warning of my car. Dave arrived nearby and found a firefighter and a was issued, this time for potential flooding in Montecito. We neighbor and together they pulled ladders from people’s garages live just inside the “mandatory” zone but we are not on a creek and got onto the roof of the house nearest me. From the roof or other watershed drainage. Across the street is a retirement of the carport the firefighter put both ladders into the muddy community, categorized as “voluntary.” We decided to stay water and “walked” them over to me. I got back on the roof of home but got our cars packed and ready. my car to meet him and together we “walked” the ladders back to the carport and got onto the roof. We used the ladders to get It started raining heavily at about 2am. About an hour later, off the roof on the other side of the house, on higher ground. the sky went orange. It looked like the daytime sky had looked during the fire. Then my phone started blurting Amber Alerts Dave and I sloshed through waist-deep mud to his van. to “get to higher ground.” We stuck with our original plan Three hours later Jeff and our son walked up to Dave’s house, and set out in two cars. I made it quickly to Jameson Lane, the covered with mud. It was then that we started understanding frontage road to the 101 freeway the extent of the destruction and and the border of the “voluntary that lives had been lost, including My story is but one of the many being evacuation” zone. good friends. shared in our community and around As I approached the stop We left Montecito that sign at Hixon Road, I noticed a afternoon, first taking an Army the country. Climate change has arrived van up ahead turning around. I transport to Coast Village Road at our front door. Warmer air and water remember thinking that if a big and then a shuttle bus into the vehicle like that couldn’t make city. We stayed in a hotel that intensify storm strength and changing it through the intersection, first night and then sheltered wind patterns influence drought. then my Prius C would be in at friends’ apartments for the trouble. During the few seconds next three weeks. We slept in Lowering our impact on the planet is it took to turn around, the street unfamiliar beds, cooked in necessary for our continued survival. went from asphalt to river. It unfamiliar kitchens and got to took my brain a few seconds know new neighborhoods. to comprehend that my car was filling with water. I thought: We made two trips back to our house, escorted by sheriff ’s “This is how I die.” I sat there for a few more seconds and then deputies, riding in the back of their cruiser. They were I shook it off and took action. incredibly empathetic, allowing us to pick up essentials in our I rolled down my window and cracked the door, not house (Jeff grabbed his sourdough starter) and checked on my wanting to get caught in a car full of water. I called 911 and my car, still stuck in the mud. Our street had a bit of mud on it but husband, getting no answer from either. The night was black was generally fine. Our neighbors were not as fortunate, as we (the power was out everywhere) but I could see reflected in my discovered up close when we volunteered for the bucket brigade. taillights that there was a driveway behind me. I steered my car/ My story is but one of the many being shared in our boat through the pillars of the driveway, aiming for a carport. I community and around the country. Climate change has arrived made it as far as a small tree next to the driveway and wedged at our front door. Warmer air and water intensify storm strength my car against it. Then I squeezed out the door and onto the and changing wind patterns influence drought. Lowering our roof of the car, wrapping my arms around the lowest branch. impact on the planet is necessary for our continued survival. Water was coming up rapidly; I could hear it rushing past me We can all be responsible climate citizens by reducing and saw large debris floating by, illuminated in my taillights. consumption of disposable products, voting for policies and I called my husband again—no answer. I feared that he and candidates who make environment a priority and supporting my son had been swept away. I called my daughter in Brooklyn, organizations working to make a difference. We are and must thinking I might need to say goodbye. She picked up on the continue to be “Santa Barbara Strong.” first ring. Once she understood the situation, she told me to hang on and that she’d call her dad. She got through. He and Kathi King is the outreach and education director at the Community my son were stranded on the Olive Mill off-ramp, with mud Environmental Council, where she has been on staff for 10 years. She and her husband, Jeff, have lived in Montecito since 1998. coming down in front of and behind them. A first responder told them to shelter in place until the mud stopped flowing. 38 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
Demeter Certified Biodynamic Rhone and Spanish Varietals
Visit Our Tasting Room on Alisos Canyon Road
Wednesday–Sunday 11–5pm » Monday/Tuesday by appt. only Picnic Areas » Horseshoe Pit » Bocce Ball Court » Dog Friendly
MartianVineyard.com
9110 Alisos Canyon Road, Los Alamos 805.344.1804
Uniquely Californian Ales & Lagers
TELEGRAPH BREWING CO. 418 N. Salsipuedes St. Santa Barbara, CA Tasting Room Open Six Days a Week - TelegraphBrewing.com
fresh ceviches, mouthwatering tacos and homemade agua frescas
Eat In, Take Out, Catering & Events 38 W Victoria [inside the Public Market] Open Daily 11am–9pm (805) 845-0282
Facebook: SBCorazonCocina EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 39
A Love Letter to Los Olivos by Sonja Magdevski PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRAN COLLIN
The view from the top of the vineyard at Buttonwood Winery and Farm.
40 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
Karen Steinwachs, of Buttonwood Winery and Farm, walks through the vineyard.
I
t is not peach season when I visit with Karen Steinwachs of Buttonwood Winery and Farm. It is early Santa Barbara winter, the kind of day where the light is so beautiful it makes you cry. The grapevines are dormant, still holding onto the last of their autumnal foliage on this January day. Surprisingly, this is my first visit to tour the vineyards. For years now I have been hearing from devoted fans,“… but have you had their peaches?” No, I answer, only the wines. This inevitably leads them to gush even more. “Yes, of course, but you must taste those peaches.” As Steinwachs and I walk through the vineyards uphill along the pond toward the plateau above, a stunning 360-degree view of the entire Santa Ynez Valley comes into perspective. “We grow peonies, too,” Steinwachs laughs. Peonies, the coveted darling of flower lovers for their luxurious blossom of petals and intoxicating fragrance, are known for growing primarily in cold-hardy Midwest and Eastern states. Buttonwood is the only farm in the area that cultivates them and likely the only farm that also makes pomegranate molasses from their own pomegranate trees, a nod to the owner’s familial heritage.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 41
With astute guidance, Buttonwood has managed to create a unique sense of place with organic vegetables, a variety of fruiting trees, cut flowers, farm animals and, of course, 43 acres of vines in the heart of the new Los Olivos District (LOD) American Viticultural Area (AVA). “Walnut trees were actually planted before the olive trees that our AVA is named after,” said Steinwachs, who discovered this during her historical data search for the new appellation. The LOD is named after Rancho Los Olivos, the site of the first significant agricultural planting in the area. The federal government approved the petition in the early part of 2016. “It was right here,” she said with outstretched arms, “where it all started.” From our hilltop she points in the direction of Happy Canyon to the east and the clear line along the Santa Ynez River below that leads west toward the Sta. Rita Hills. Steinwachs is a petite woman now further dwarfed by the
dramatic view that surrounds her. In 2002, she and a band of winemakers were hosting a dinner for sommeliers when the late Seth Kunin, celebrated for making great wine and being a seminal educator, stood to address the group about their geographic orientation. “He was identifying all our surrounding areas then fell silent when he got to the area where he was standing. We all thought, ‘Well wait, where are we and what are we?’” she said. “Then Fred Brander, who was also at the dinner, got a burr under his saddle and started looking into it. We wanted to feel special, too.” That is the purpose, after all, of an AVA. To create a singular defined geographic space that shares unique characteristics within its borders. AVAs are required to be scientifically supported and have historical significance. The goal is to assist grape growers and wine producers in identifying their distinction from other growing areas, which in turn should
Buttonwood is in the heart of the new Los Olivos District (LOD) American Viticultural Area (AVA).
42 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
Rancho Arroyo Perido
Mirabella
Faith
Los Olivos
Fox Family Brander Cent’ Anni
deLanda
Baehner Fournier Bridlewood Vandale White Scott Calzada Gate Ridge Riata Hampton Family Oaks
Joughin Vincent
Maddahi Ibarra-Young Blackjack Ranch
Santa Maria
Beckmen Old School
Honea
ALAMO P I NTAD
Carhartt
OR
D
Buttonwood Farm Vie Caprice
WilliamsonDoré
Estelle
Camp 4
Lucas & Lewellen
MarioNello
154
Santa Ynez
Dovecote Morehouse
La Presa
Coquelicot
ROBLAR AVE
Ingeborg
Quail Crossing N. REFUGIO RD
Rideau
Rock Hollow
Stage Canyon Mateo
BASELINE AVE
Alamo Pintado Eleven Oaks Stone Crest Kingsley
SANTA MARIA VALLEY A.V.A.
Great Oaks
Pegasus
La Cuesta
101
Roblar
EDISON ST
Rancho Foxen-Canyon
Valley View
Solvang
246 Brave and Maiden Estate Vina de Santa Ynez
Clover Creek Larner
Fangaorne
Mesa Verde
Gainey Home Ranch Evans
Sunstone
LO S A L A M O S VA L L E Y
L os Al a mos
101
STA. RITA HILLS A.V.A.
246
Los O liv os
BALLARD CANYON A.V.A.
LOS OLIVOS DISTRICT A.V.A. S anta Yne z
Buel l ton
246 S olvang 1
1
HAPPY CANYON OF SANTA BARBARA A.V.A.
101
translate into enhanced understanding for the wine consumer. This is why most petitions focus on geographic, geologic and climatic data shared within a prescribed space, which helps explain why certain grapes are grown within its borders. Just like peaches and peonies, there are preferred places where certain varietals grow more easily amidst the anomalies. New AVAs have become a response to the ones that preceded them in order to better define themselves. They are also a reflection of the political and economic climate of the time. The current Los Olivos District exists inside the long-established
154
Lake Cachuma
A.V.A. (American Viticultural Area)
Santa Ynez Valley appellation, created in 1983 at a time when Santa Barbara County wine was a nascent industry with only a handful of growers. The Santa Ynez Valley AVA broadly sweeps along the Santa Ynez River following its watershed, marking its eastern periphery at Happy Canyon while moving westward to encompass the Sta. Rita Hills. The original goal was to be inclusive of everyone in the area at the time who was growing grapes, in addition to distinguishing themselves from the cooler climate Santa Maria Valley, established in 1981—the first in our county.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 43
STE VEN BROWN
Lompoc
SANTA YNEZ VALLEY A.V.A.
An expansive view of Brander Vineyard.
“Have you seen the Santa Ynez Valley map?” Bill Davidge a few years prior, finding land prices in Santa Ynez too spendy asked me during our phone call. He doesn’t know that I have for his liking, according to Davidge. The families chose to been writing about the origins of our appellations for the last plant the market favorites of that time, Cabernet Sauvignon two years and that I am and Riesling, and they “I thought it would be nice to carve out aware of his history as one also partnered with UC of the original signers. His Davis on an experimental an area that was more similar in climate folks partnered with the vineyard to test myriad Bettencourt family in the late varietals, including with the goal of creating an AVA that was 1960s to plant the first postPinot Noir, Sylvaner, cohesive and reflective of this based on Prohibition vineyard in the Chardonnay, Sauvignon Santa Ynez Valley, called Viña scientific parameters.”— Fred Brander Blanc, Gamay and that de Santa Ynez, off Refugio beautiful Gewürztraminer. Road. Yes, I tell him, and I used to buy Gewürztraminer grapes This was unknown territory for premium grape growing. from the original vineyard, the oldest plantings in the area. The It was a young Fred Brander looking for property in the Davidges and Bettencourts, who had a dairy on the property, early 1970s to grow grapes who approached them to not thought growing grapes would be a lucrative option after seeing only buy grapes but to also turn the old dairy into a winery. a PG&E pamphlet at the time endorsing vineyards being For Brander, everything was already in place: The building planted in the Santa Maria Valley. had thick walls for natural insulation and the stainless steel Boyd Bettencourt called on his friend Uriel Nielsen for milking tanks could easily be used for wine. They named it assistance. Nielsen had planted the first vineyard in Santa Maria the Santa Ynez Winery and sold grapes to home winemakers 44 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
Left: In the field at Brander Vineyard. Right: Winemaker Fabian Bravo checking the wine at Brander.
and commercial clients. Brander made their wines in addition to starting his own brand with Sauvignon Blanc, a varietal he would become lauded for throughout his career. “When we started the Santa Ynez Valley AVA, it was a way of marketing our grapes to get the name out there and it helped a lot,” Davidge said. They soon opened a tasting room at the winery and catered to visitors from across the state traveling Highway 101, particularly from Los Angeles and Santa Barbara. The Santa Ynez Valley Viticulture Association, as it was known at the time, hosted parties for tastemakers and toured people to different wineries, including celebrity chef Julia Child and Robert Balzer, wine writer for the Los Angeles Times, who championed California wines. Davidge still owns part of the original vineyard now called Giff ’s and is supportive of the LOD AVA. I ask him if he thinks the area has finally achieved valuable name recognition. “People still think of Napa and Sonoma as the only wine regions in California,” he said. “We have a long way to go but we’ve also come a long way, too.”
About Fred Brander Everyone you speak with will tell you that Fred Brander was and is the driving force behind the creation of the Los Olivos District AVA. Steinwachs calls him the Godfather. Winemaker and longtime friend Doug Margerum said Brander hired all the geologists, hydrologists and other consultants to confirm scientific data, independently funded the project and painstakingly wrote the petition himself. Margerum, who recently acquired farming rights to Honea vineyard within the LOD to focus on his estate fruit program, is thrilled by the approval of the new appellation.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 45
Fred Brander amidst the loads of rock and ash-laden dirt brought from Montecito to his vineyard.
46 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 47
The soil’s ash content will be used in the vineyard and the boulders used to build rock walls.
“It is so beneficial as it fills the gap between Happy Canyon and Ballard Canyon,” he said. “This area needed an identity. It was getting lost in the Santa Ynez Valley AVA and that broader distinction was not going to work anymore. Los Olivos is known to thousands of people with immediate name recognition who know exactly where it is. It is very valuable to have this and I am excited to release the new wines under this designation.” When the LOD AVA approval was announced, a group photo was taken with 40 growers and producers from the area standing shoulder to shoulder in unity. During the public comment period no one opposed the AVA and the government readily approved the petition that encompasses 47 commercial vineyards covering 1,120 acres of grapes, 12 wineries and dozens of other producers who use LOD fruit for their wines. The boundary covers the heart of the Santa Ynez Valley, where the townships of Ballard, Santa Ynez, Los Olivos and Solvang are located. The southern border is the Santa Ynez River and the northern border follows along the 1,000-foot elevation line of the San Rafael Mountain range. Steinwachs joked that the LOD could have been the true Santa Ynez Valley AVA, though, unfortunately, the name was already taken. “I have always known that Santa Barbara is diverse in climate where many varieties do well,” Brander said. “I thought it would be nice to carve out an area that was more similar in climate with the goal of creating an AVA that was cohesive and reflective of this based on scientific parameters. The main impetus for creating the Los Olivos District AVA came with the creation of the Sta. Rita Hills. It was finally time to do something similar so in 2003 I started to look into the possibility.” Brander carefully started researching and writing the petition over the course of 10 years when no one else showed much interest. Every few years he would gather a group to share his findings. When no one opposed he would quietly continue. He discovered the uniformity of the soils, geology and climate throughout the area. The borders reflect where the soils, called the Positas-Ballard-Santa Ynez series, and climate change. The area is covered in gently rolling hills with consistent temperatures throughout. It is slightly warmer than Ballard Canyon just over the western ridgeline, though not as warm as Happy Canyon as it still receives maritime influence from the Pacific Ocean running inland along the wide Highway 246 corridor. 48 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
Santa Barbara
VintnersFestival ——--—--——-——-———----—--——-——-
Many different grape varieties grow here, though not exactly the same ones as the first Santa Ynez Valley vineyard. Warm-loving varietals have found a sweet spot here, including Grenache, Syrah, Merlot, Malbec, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and, of course, Sauvignon Blanc. When I arrive to meet Brander at his vineyard and winery I find him in the barrel room topping Cabernet Sauvignon barrels with his son, Nik, the third generation to make wine on the 52-acre property purchased in 1974, and who now works closely with winemaker Fabian Bravo. It was a natural moment. Many of us in the wine industry know that cellar work can often be calming and reassuring as we frequently monitor our progress, getting lost in the repetitive quiet. This image gracefully softened my last memory of Brander two weeks prior when I literally ran into him in the early morning of January 9. He was walking down Coast Village Road in Montecito wearing an orange rain jacket, his jeans covered in mud from the kneecaps down. He and his son had been emergency rescued from their home in the mudslide zone and taken to a shelter. I learned of the severity of the storm from him in those first few seconds as we were cut off from power and information. I will never forget the look on his face. His family is safe and his home is saved, though his property is covered in rock and dirt from the surrounding mountains. One of the main tenets of winemaking and grape growing is patience and renewal. He has been digging out by bringing loads of rock and ash-laden dirt to his vineyard and plans on using some of the sandstone to build rock walls around the winery—another added layer of his collective history. He searched throughout Ojai and Santa Barbara before committing to this parcel where he planted Bordeaux varietals in 1975, including Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, when the trend at the time was to plant what were called the Noble Four: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling. Brander understood the variables that made wines distinctive. Before making wine, he studied enology at UC Davis, worked for a wine merchant in Santa Barbara and owned his own wine import business, where he sold wines from France and his home country of Argentina, where he was born and raised. Sitting near the fountain in the tasting garden like any other normal day, I ask Brander if the 40 years he has spent working his property has given him a true sense of place for his wine. “It all depends on how you look at wine,” he replied. “Do you see it as a beverage based on hedonistic experience or based on its origin? I think it is important that it gives you more. People can come to the vineyard, see the vines and taste the product of the place. That is my connection with wine. It is not just the grape. It is also the soil and the geography. To me that is magical. That gives value that is solid and you can bank on.”
Sat u r day, A p r i l 2 1 , 2 0 1 8
R iveR P aRk · L omPoc , c a · 1 Pm - 4 Pm
——--—--——-——-———----—--——-——-
grand tasting of wines from over 100 wineries sUPerB food from local foragers, farmers & restaUrants
santa BarBara wine coUntry fo r info rm atio n & tic k e ts vis it: sB co Un tywin es .co m o r c a l l 8 0 5 . 6 8 8 . 0 8 8 1 Santa BarBara
Vintners
ARTISANAL FINE JEWELRY, ART & GIFTS THURSDAYYMONDAY 11AMM5PM 2446 ALAMO PINTADO AVE. LOS OLIVOS, CA
Sonja Magdevski is winemaker/owner of Casa Dumetz Wines, a tiny producer in love with Grenache and specializing in Santa Barbara County Rhône varietals. She is also a reemerging journalist finding her way in the intricate and wonderful world of wine.
RANDDLOSOLIVOS.COM
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 49
From Grape to Great A Look at Santa Barbara County Wine from Some of Its Pioneers by George Yatchisin
Rick Longoria Lane Tanner Bob Lindquist Richard Sanford
A
Jim Clendenen Fred Brander Ken Brown
n aspiring lawyer, a chemist, an ad man and a vet walk into a wine region… that isn’t a wine region yet. That’s just one way to consider Santa Barbara County’s humble beginnings as a great place for grapes over 40 years ago, if you look at a handful of its wine pioneers. That possible lawyer is Rick Longoria, now of Longoria Wines; the chemist Lane Tanner, now of Lumen; the ad man Bob Lindquist, of Qupé; and the Navy vet—who also had studied geology and geography at UC Berkeley—was Richard Sanford, of Alma Rosa. Together their stories, along with many others not included in the scope of this article (especially Jim Clendenen, Fred Brander, Ken Brown) since it’s an article and not a tome, give a hint of how wine became Santa Barbara County’s number one finished agricultural product, and how the county’s wine grape crop is the second-most-valuable agricultural crop—nobody’s knocking off strawberries from number 1.
50 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
All Roads Lead to Wine
It might be hard to believe, but winemakers aren’t that different from the rest of us. They all had some moment when they realized wine was more than a drink—a way into the land, out of history, around community. Rick Longoria had the good fortune, for example, to transfer from UC Santa Barbara to UC Berkeley, and thereby got to explore Sonoma and Napa when his workload as a sociology major allowed. While he still thought he’d be a lawyer, wine enticed, even more so after a trip to South America. Instead of applying to law school, he got back to the States and applied for any winery position he could land. Taking the leap from the like of Lancers in the early 1970s, Bob Lindquist graduated from UC Irvine and got a job in advertising. “One of our customers was a wine shop in Westminster Mall,” he relates. “One time I did some work for them and they offered to pay me in wine instead of money, so I got some bottles that were way above my previous budget of about
two or three dollars. A Simi 1970 Cabernet Sauvignon was one of the wines, retail about $10. I couldn’t believe how good it was and from that moment on I’ve been hooked and always wanted to learn more about wine.” The lab led chemist Lane Tanner into the wine world. After college she started in the air pollution abatement industry, but a winter in Montana was enough to send her back to more temperate California. A temp job labeling bottles at Konocti Winery turned fortuitous when they discovered her chemistry background. The first day she was in the lab, she was introduced to André Tchelistcheff, their consultant (and a man the New York Times called “a seminal figure in the modern California wine industry” in his 1994 obit), as their new enologist. Tanner didn’t know what the word meant. Tchelistcheff kept her busy all day; he liked her so much, Konocti had to keep her on. That’s one lucky way a career can begin. As one of our great Pinot Noir pioneers, it’s only fitting that Richard Sanford learned of the magic of wine thanks to “a beautiful Volnay while in the Navy,” he says. “My ship’s home port was San Diego. I was a navigator on a destroyer, and a shipmate ordered the wine while dining at Bully’s Steakhouse in La Jolla.” That transformative bottle didn’t just make him love Burgundy, but made him hope to create a cool-climate California wine somewhat similar. Little did he know the vineyard where he could do so would end up with his name on it.
All Roads Lead to Santa Barbara “Returning from the Vietnam War, I decided to pursue farming, probably in response to the rejection I felt as a returning serviceman,” Sanford says. “I found great solace in farming and being in nature. I used my background in geography [his major at Berkeley], and remembering that Volnay helped in choosing the site to plant the Sanford & Benedict Vineyard in 1971. We were lucky to find some investors, and lucky for me, the ranch had
never been electrified so I spent six years living with gas lights, physically farming 100 acres of vineyard.” As he points out, it was the first vineyard planting in the Sta. Rita Hills Appellation, decades before distinct Santa Barbara AVAs were a dream in anyone’s head. A retail position brought Bob Lindquist north from Orange County, when he got a job managing a retail wine shop in Los Olivos that was owned by the son of the principal owner of Zaca Mesa Winery. “Long story short [attending a Kinks concert instead of going to work is at the heart of it], but I was fired by the son and hired by the father to be Zaca Mesa’s first tour guide in September 1979, just before harvest,” he says. “We didn’t get many tourists back then, so most of my time was spent working as a cellar hand under the tutelage of assistant winemaker Jim Clendenen. From Jim I learned how to make wine.” It was also the start of a beautiful friendship, as Lindquist and Clendenen, the infamous Mind Behind Au Bon Climat, have shared a winemaking facility since 1989. Turns out Lane Tanner’s patron André Tchelistcheff not only led to her arrival in Santa Barbara but also Rick Longoria’s. Longoria was toiling as a cellarman for Buena Vista in Sonoma, another winery that employed Tchelistcheff, and Rick hung out with the great man whenever he could. André, ever in demand, was consulting on the new Firestone property in Santa Barbara, and suggested Rick head south. In 1976 he became cellar foreman there. Tanner, at André’s recommendation, arrived in 1981 to be Firestone’s enologist. Soon, all four of our pioneers had their own wineries: Longoria, while still working for others (J. Carey and then Gainey) founded Longoria Wines with his wife, Diana, in 1982 and focused only on it starting in 1997; Lindquist founded Qupé Wines in 1982; Sanford first partnered with Michael Benedict starting in 1971, moved on to Sanford Wines in 1980 (with his wife, Thekla), and then Alma Rosa in 2005; Tanner asserts, “I am the first
independent female winemaker in Santa Barbara County, as of 1984,” first under her own name and then, after a break from 2009 to 2012, with Will Henry as a partner in Lumen Wines.
Time Traveling to 1985 While Longoria finally had the opportunity to establish an estate vineyard in 1998, Fe Ciega (or Blind Faith), he also admits if he could go back in time, “I would tell my young self to try to scrape up enough money to buy a small piece of Santa Rita Hills property to plant a vineyard.” This is the winery variation on another typical hope, to slip their younger selves stock tips: “I wish I would have told the young me to invest all I had into Apple Computer,” Lindquist suggests. Hopes for riches in land or money aside, all four, despite any ups and downs they might have had over the decades, would have let things happen as they happened. “Part of the fun of living is learning by making mistakes,” Tanner claims. “If I corrected any of these by telling the young me about future events, then I would not go through them and would not be the person I am today and I really like that person. Wine wise, I have not changed that much since the 1985 version of me.” Sanford puts it even more aphoristically, stating, “Pursue your dreams, do no harm, make excellent wine. Quality is always in demand.” Of course, what varietal of quality can be different. “I made Pinot Noir back in the beginning, as well as Syrah,” Lindquist makes clear, something those who know Qupé for its Rhônes today might be shocked to learn. “After the 1984 harvest I decided to drop Pinot and focus on Syrah,” he says. “I don’t regret focusing on Syrah and Rhône varietals, but I kind of wish I’d also stuck with Pinot, as my retirement account would be a lot stronger!” Of course, someone could make the Sideways of Syrah someday and leave Lindquist with a heartier nest egg.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 51
From left: Rick Longoria, Lane Tanner, Bob Lindquist and Richard Sanford.
Santa Barbara Surprises As a group, all four couldn’t be bigger cheerleaders for the entire region. As Sanford puts it, “[I find] no surprise, this unique region is capable of producing world-class wines!” Longoria gives that notion a twist, however: “I haven’t really been surprised by the growth of the vineyard and winery industry, since it really just reflects my initial feeling that we have a very special place to grow grapes and make world-class wines,” he echoes. “What I have been surprised with is that I feel our region has not been better recognized than it is for the diversity and quality of our wines. My theory is that a lot of our region’s wines don’t fall into the mainstream wine consumer’s taste profiles for California, because of our cooler climate, and so it has taken and will take, a bit longer for our wines to be understood and appreciated.” That is, cooler climate equals lower alcohol and perhaps a bit more tamed fruit—let’s say sophisticated or, better yet, balanced wines.
Tanner gets yet more prickly about it, insisting she’s most surprised “that the Pinot Noirs are not considered equal to Grand Crus. Santa Maria Valley is almost looked down on… and why? Because it has been around so long that it isn’t new and exciting enough to be hailed the most wonderful Pinot Noir region in the USA?” There’s that, too — all the varietals (over 50) and now six AVAs could at times lead to more confusion and competition than clarity for someone looking to make a quick supermarket purchase to have with dinner.
Time Traveling to 2058 Guessing what SB wine might be like 40 years into the future, Tanner takes the even longer view, pointing out, “Hopefully [the wines will be] as good as they are right now. Winemaking is not like technology where there is going to be some big breakthrough. I guess the wildest thought would be having The Wine Spectator actually acknowledging how wonderful Santa Barbara County wines are. That would mean that most of those old men
ABOVE PHOTOS BY STE VEN BROWN, ERIN FEINBL AT T AND SHERRIE CHAVE Z
52 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
with blown-out palates would have to be gone. It will happen some day.” The others had climate change on their minds, and Longoria put the issue most eloquently: “I wish I could be more optimistic about the future of our wine industry— and for all agriculture, for that matter— but I do feel that the changes in climate will be more dramatically felt in 2058, and that with diminished resources such as water there may be a pullback in the amount of acreage devoted to wine grapes, and in the number of wineries able to operate within the higher costs and market challenges that may develop. We may well be enjoying the Golden Age of wines right now and for a short time to come.” It might be better to think of the wine glass as half full, for as Lindquist half-jokes, “Santa Barbara County might be better known for Cabernet Sauvignon than Pinot Noir by then!” George Yatchisin happily eats, drinks and writes in Santa Barbara. He blogs at GeorgeEats.com.
botanical beauty from wine
made fresh daily
3 great locations: 120 Santa Barbara St, the guilded table 21 W ortega Street, santa barbara, ca 4193 Carpinteria Ave #6, carpinteria, ca grapeseedco.com
Opening Summer of 2018 300 North 12th St., Unit 1A Lompoc, CA 93436 805.819.1372
Visit www.KitaWines.com
Local Treats!
Enjoy our Gelato & Sorbet from Locally Grown Farms & Farmer’s Market Fruit
FEATURED SPRING FLAVORS
Strawberry, Persian cucumber w/Mint & Apricot
Santa Ynez Valley Farmed Meat & Produce
.
CHICKEN, LAMB, PORK, ’GOAT, RABBIT FRUIT PIES, QUICHES, JAMS AND PRESERVES SEE US AT THE FARMER S MARKET! 805-688-0597 JIMENEZFAMILYFARM.COM
FRESH
LOCAL
Along with Traditional Italian Flavors • MADE FRESH DAILY ON OUR PREMISES • Family Owned & Operated Since 2004 Come See Us in Our New Street Level Location • 1187 Coast Village Road, Montecito, CA 93108 • 805-969-7020 • ScoopSB.com
1150 COAST VILLAGE ROAD SUITE E, MONTECITO WED–FRI: 7AM–3PM; SAT–SUN: 7AM–2PM; CLOSED MON & TUE
805 570-9151 Breeosh.com
Specializing in Sourcing and Delivering the Best Local Seasonal Organic and Pesticide Free Produce, Local Grass-fed Meats, Pasture Raised Poultry, Fresh Fish and Many More Wonderful Local Artisanal Food Products
Subscriptions start at $25. You control your produce box delivery via our website! • Delivery options include weekly or every other week • Freedom to suspend your delivery • Weekly billing • Various box sizes available • Gift certificates available
www.PlowToPorch.com EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 53
For the Love of Wine
Four Santa Barbara County Winemakers Who Make Time for Passion Projects by Hana-Lee Sedgwick
Egg Salad Sandwich What to do with your beautiful onion-skin-dyed Easter eggs? First on the list must be a classic egg salad sandwich. You have many variations to choose from so you won’t get tired of them, even if you’ve made dozens of eggs. Makes 2 sandwiches
T
here’s a growing community of winemakers in Santa Barbara who are doubling up on their duties, establishing their own labels and/or consulting on side projects they believe in while continuing their “day jobs” as winemakers. It seems as though being involved in more than one project is not only becoming common practice here in, it’s the norm. Whether they’re inspired by a certain grape, by a specific style or winemaking technique or by Santa Barbara County’s varied microclimates and the flexibility they have to explore different varieties here, these “passion projects” give winemakers a chance to experiment, grow and, in many cases, create something of their own. Individuals who fall under the title of “winemaker by day and winemaker by night” share one common thread: They do it because they love it. Here are four of their stories. 54 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons mayonnaise or 1 tablespoon mayonnaise and 1 tablespoon crème fraiche Salt and pepper, to taste
Additions: • A tablespoon of something crunchy, such as capers, chopped chopped pickledmorning vegetables,when chopped radishes chopped It’scelery, a sunny weekday I meet up or with Alison onion
Thomson for coffee at Handlebar’s newest location in Santa • A sprinkling chopped fresha herbs, such as parsley, basil, Barbara. I firstofmet Alison few years back while visiting cilantro, chervil or tarragon JCR Vineyards, where she happily works as winemaker and • A dash of somethingAlison, tangy, such lemon or lime juice,toorstudy the vineyard manager. whoasattended UCSB pickled juice or caper brine if you used either of those or a dash biology and Italian, first fell in love with wine while studying of white wine vinegar in Italy. Bread (sliced bread, baguette, bagel, roll, croissant or slider bun) “I lived in the center of the city of Siena, looking out over Additional and/or mustard olive grovesmayonnaise and churches… it was (optional) ridiculous,” she tells me. vegetables (optional) “IAdditional loved thepickled way food and wine were part of everyday life there. It was truly a magical experience.” Lettuce A few the years after college, seasoning while working part-time in a Combine eggs, mayonnaise, and additions and mix tasting room, Alison decided to pursue winemaking as until incorporated but with a still chunky texture. Taste and add her career. She or applied to ifUC Davis, where she went on to more seasoning additions needed. study viticulture. While there, she went back to Italy on a Create an open-faced or closed sandwich using additional student immersion experience and was introduced to the mayonnaise on each slice if you love mayonnaise—or just mustard, wines of Piedmont. or neither. Pickled vegetables make a great topping as well, such as a couple stalks of Pacific Pickle Works Asparagusto. — Krista Harris
Alison Thomson
ANDRE W SHONEBERGER
“I fell in love with the area,” she says. “I ended up spending a harvest there later on, which really influenced my palate.” In fact, she was so moved by the wines of Piedmont that she decided to launch a side project centered around producing wines from the Italian grapes Nebbiolo and Barbera. In 2013, Alison established L.A. Lepiane, her personal label named after her great-grandfather, Luigi A. Lepiane. A native of Calabria, Italy, Lepiane established a grocery store and winery when he settled in California, naming it L.A. Lepiane. “I actually started my brand ‘Lepiane’ based on a family name before I learned that my great-grandfather had his own wines,” she says. “After my grandmother passed and we were going through old documents, I found this out. That’s when I added ‘L.A.’ to the name.” She adds with a laugh, “I guess wine was in my blood!” While inspired by the vibrant wines of Italy, Alison remarks that her winemaking style has really been shaped by the people
she’s worked with in and around Santa Barbara. Her approach is more minimalistic, aiming to showcase the area’s “beautiful fruit” in her wine. “I’m not trying to be a natural winemaker, but if I can get away without much manipulation, it really shows in the wine.” Though L.A. Lepiane remains her side gig and a way to work with Italian grapes, she shares that part of the reason she loves being a winemaker, in Santa Barbara in particular, is because she gets to work with so many varieties here. “I love that I get to work with grapes like Pinot Noir at JCR, which does so well here,” she says. “And Grenache is a fun challenge. Luckily, Santa Barbara is well suited to Italian varietals, too, so I get to experiment with lesser-grown grapes like Nebbiolo.” For L.A. Lepiane, she also plans to pursue bottling an Italian white wine in the near future. Adds Alison, “It’s really nice that I don’t have to stick to one path.”
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 55
Angela Osborne TRINE BELL
While New Zealand and California are worlds apart—with a whopping 19-hour time difference, no less—I jump on a Skype call with Santa Barbara County winemaker Angela Osborne. Though Angela hails from Auckland, she’s spent the majority of her adult life in California, where she’s worked with wine in both Northern and Southern California— most recently as winemaker for her own label, A Tribute to Grace, and for Folded Hills in Santa Ynez. Winemaking wasn’t always the goal for this talented petite woman. After graduating from film school, Angela put her plans on hold and spent a harvest in Sonoma in 2002. “I was working at a large winery in Sonoma County, and the winemaker took me to his friend’s winery to show me the other end of the production scale,” she says. “That artisan winery was Unti, and when I tried their Grenache my world tipped on its axis. I knew then I wanted to make wine—which was monumental in itself since I wanted to be a filmmaker— and specifically Grenache.” Angela decided to move to London to gain experience in the wine trade, then in 2006 returned to California to follow her dreams of making wine, launching A Tribute to Grace the following year. Starting with two tons of Grenache from the remote Santa Barbara Highlands Vineyard, Angela now makes nine Grenache bottlings from various vineyards throughout California, including a rosé. In fact, A Tribute to Grace is completely dedicated to producing 100% Grenache wines— 56 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
eight single-vineyard and one blend of two vineyards. I ask what she finds so special about working with this grape, a grape that many find difficult to manage. “I love its ability to showcase the feminine, ethereal side of what makes the world slow down,” she tells me. “I love that it encapsulates the yin, and at the same time allows the terroir to speak softly.” It’s obvious that Grenache (and winemaking) is her calling, and this passion is easily recognizable upon first sip of her elegant, graceful wines. In late 2014, Angela met with Kim and Andy Busch, owners of Folded Hills in Santa Ynez, who were looking for a winemaker for their brand. “We met around a copper table in their ranch kitchen,” she says. “I knew it was a perfect fit immediately. They had planted Grenache, family was paramount to them… plus, I love copper,” she adds with a laugh. “It’s been an incredible partnership ever since.” At Folded Hills, she gets to work with her beloved Grenache, as well as other Rhône varietals like Syrah, with some white Rhône grapes on the horizon. Though she has a busy career in winemaking, and is a mom of three, Angela wouldn’t have it any other way. “Like anything, when something speaks so loudly to you that you devote your life to it, then it doesn’t feel like extra work at all. Just focusing on what you love best,” she says, describing why she is passionate about her line of work. “I have an incredibly supportive husband and family. We made a conscious decision early on to work as a team,” she adds. “I feel very blessed.”
Michael Roth on winemaking, because so many people in this industry (and any industry, for that matter) tend to seek perfection. “I like good rather than great. Great makes it seem too precious.” After sourcing grapes from Coquelicot Vineyard for Lo-Fi, Michael approached owner Bernie Rosenson about making the wine for Coquelicot. “He is passionate about organic farming and Old World wines,” Michael says, “so it was a natural fit.” Now that he’s been working for both brands for a couple of years, which he says are “both my passion projects,” I ask Michael how he balances it all. “My life is my hobby. It all revolves around food and wine.” True to form, that’s a surprisingly different way to look at it. In his quest for seeking imperfection, he’s managed to find his perfect recipe.
MIKE ROTH
While some winemakers find their inspiration from working with one or two particular grapes, there are others who are passionate about a certain style of wine. Take, for instance, Michael Roth. As winemaker for Coquelicot as well as for Lo-Fi, the project he co-owns with his longtime friend, Craig Winchester, Michael has made a career out of the lessconventional style known as “natural” winemaking—without the use of additives. A New Jersey native, Michael first got interested in wine while working at a wine shop during college in North Carolina, later heading west to pursue it as a career. After working for noteworthy producers like Saddleback and Grgich Hills, he landed in Santa Barbara County. He worked at Demetria before becoming the head winemaker at Martian Ranch, where he worked alongside his good friend Craig before the two decided to venture out on their own to start Lo-Fi. “We had the impetus to start our own brand,” Michael tells me over the phone. “It’s always hard to interpret someone else’s vision, but we knew the type of wine we wanted to make, the style, so we winged it and hoped for the best.” That style is a leaner, fresher style of wine made with minimal input and intervention, no additives and little to no sulfur, which Michael describes as “really gulpable” wine. “I love the science of wine and fermentation,” he says. “Making ‘natural wine’ isn’t mystical, it’s rooted in science and the understanding of wine chemistry and microbiology.” When I ask how he got into making this style of wine, he tells me he’s always liked the “slightly weirder wines” because they’re different, but it was his friend’s push away from conventional winemaking that inspired him to make the leap, adding, “I like to challenge the perception of what is considered good wine.” I can’t help but chuckle at his refreshingly different perspective
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 57
JOHN LICHT WARDT PHOTOGR APHY
Kyle Knapp
58 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
It’s one of those idyllic sunshine-filled winter mornings in Santa Barbara when I meet up with Kyle Knapp for coffee. Kyle, who lives in Lompoc, tells me that he’s going to take advantage of some surf after our meeting. “Surfing really helps me think and recharge,” he says. “It helps inspire me as a winemaker.” Though winemaking wasn’t a career he aimed for early on, Kyle now works as head winemaker at Stolpman Vineyards in addition to making wine for his own label, Press Gang Cellars. It was during his early 20s while living in Los Olivos that he first got intrigued by the idea of winemaking. “I was meeting a lot of winemakers and trying their wines,” he tells me. “I didn’t know exactly what I wanted to do as a career, but I knew I wanted to do something creative and the idea of winemaking seemed like something I could enjoy.” After getting hooked on Grenache, which he describes as the wine that pulled him into winemaking, in 2005 Kyle “took a leap of faith” and worked his first harvest, followed by a stint in Australia the following year. When he returned, he joined the winemaking team at Stolpman Vineyards, where he worked for three years before moving on to Beckman Vineyards. In 2010, after some encouragement from Steve Clifton, Kyle decided to start his own small wine project, Press Gang Cellars, focusing on small lots sourced from various Santa Barbara County vineyards. “I focus on Grenache mostly and Roussanne and a couple blends,” he says. “The wines are fun and have a lot of character.” Before I can ask my next question, he answers it for me: “I got the idea for the name Press Gang from an old punk rock song. My first wines were done in an old wooden basket press, and my wife and I were there after hours pressing in this vintage press.” “I see, a press gang party of two!” I say, to which he responds with a laugh, “Gang of three if you count my dog.” Today, Kyle’s “gang” is a party of four, including his wife and two children, who often visit him in the cellar. “In winemaking, it’s not just me. My family is involved in Press Gang, and I’m part of the winemaking family at Stolpman. They have been great supporters from the beginning.” Two years ago, Kyle rejoined Stolpman as head winemaker, where he gets to continue working with Grenache and Rhône wines while furthering his passion for the experimental side of winemaking. “Stolpman is always changing and improving— I’m lucky that I’m allowed to experiment and try new things,” Kyle says. “No year, no harvest is ever the same, so nothing is ever stale. Learning different techniques and having an everchanging workflow is what I love about this industry. It inspires me every day.” Hana-Lee Sedgwick is a Santa Barbara native who writes about wine, food and travel. As a freelance writer, editor and wine consultant, she happily spends her downtime eating, drinking and wandering, documenting it on her blog, Wander & Wine.
Artistry in Winemaking SINCE 1982
Longoria Winery & Tasting Room 415 E. Chestnut Ave., Lompoc, CA Open 11am– 4:30pm Daily LongoriaWine.com 866-759-4637
gourmet olive oils & vinegars
Locally grown and handcrafted goods made in California. SolvangOliveCo.com
·
1578 Mission Dr., Solvang
Bringing our delicious food to Goleta Monday – Saturday 11am – 9pm 250 Storke Rd., Goleta
www.cadario.net EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 59
Winemaking Takes a Journey From Spain to the Central Coast Words and photos by Carmen Smyth
Inside Eduard Pié’s winery there is an array of amphoras and barrels.
60 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
Winemaker Rick Longoria examines the two amphoras he had made in Spain and shipped to his winery in Lompoc.
It seems like winemakers are experimental creatures, with an innate curiosity for exploration. That mindset propels the industry to continue to evolve. That’s why when Santa Barbara winemaker Rick Longoria met Catalonian winemaker Eduard Pié in Spain, he had to try making wine in clay amphoras.
“T
hat’s the next thing, going back to these ancient vessels,” Longoria says. “It is the younger generation of winemakers that are interested in getting back to these historic methods. Their thought is, ‘Let’s get back to this region, let’s resurrect native grapes, let’s use clay from that region [to make the amphoras].’” Longoria has been making wine for over 35 years. He started his career at Buena Vista Winery in Sonoma, but was able to return to this area and work at Firestone Winery in 1976. After a short stint in Napa, Longoria returned to the Santa Ynez Valley, believing that it was a better fit for him stylistically. He was hired as winemaker at J. Carey Cellars and worked with Bordeaux varieties. Seeing the growing popularity of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Longoria started his own brand in 1982 and focused on those two varieties. Longoria spent 12 years as winemaker at The Gainey Vineyard before venturing out on his own.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 61
Above left: Eduard Pié kneels in his vineyard in Catalonia Spain and talks about the varietal, Monastrell and his grape-growing philosophy. Above right: Eduard Pié lifts the lid to one of his amphoras buried in the vineyard. Pié has ten 60-liter amphoras buried in two vineyards. Below left: Eduard Pié pours a 2016 Xarelo rosé in his outdoor tasting room overlooking his vineyard. Below right: Eduard Pié stands in front of an open amphora buried in the vineyard.
Always on the cutting edge of innovation, Longoria was the first winery to move to the now-famed Wine Ghetto in Lompoc. In recent years Richard Longoria Winery has expanded and moved into a vintage 1913 building nearby. Longoria likes experimenting and is working with more than eight varieties. He produces about 3,000 cases a year and is considered a boutique winery. His winemaking style is more European and he concentrates on balance with minimal intervention. When Longoria met Pié, he was fascinated and intrigued as he walked into the vineyard in Penedés, an area known for its sparkling wine. Pié was making wine in clay amphoras, just like the Romans. But Pié had taken his experiment even further. He buried some of his amphoras in the ground in the vineyard and fermented and aged his wines there. 62 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
Longoria was captivated with Pie’s techniques. “Boy, I really like those amphoras,” Longoria says after his return from Spain. “I was very much engrossed with Pié and his style of winemaking. You just get inspired.” The visit sparked Longoria’s curiosity so much that, within a year, he had arranged to have two amphoras made in Spain and shipped to his winery in Lompoc. Amphoras—or tinajas, as they are called in Spain—are clay vessels produced in different sizes and shapes, made from different types of clay and fired at high temperatures. They were originally used by the Romans to store olive oil and wine. They have a distinctive oval shape with a narrow bottom. Pié lives in the small town of Bonastre, near the Catalonian coast. He started experimenting with winemaking when he was 16. He worked for other wineries and finally produced his own
label in 2009. His father and grandfather worked the vineyards but he decided that winemaking was his passion. Pié’s vineyard is hidden in the backcountry of Spain over rolling hills, around tight curves and up a dusty, rutted road. At the top of a small hill, the vineyard stretches out over a couple of acres. It is filled with yellow wildflowers and native grasses, sprouting between the rows and vines. The buds were just starting to leaf and the vineyard sparkled green in the early morning light. Pié is a fit young man, with dark eyes and a scruffy beard. He is considered one of the new generation of innovative Catalonian winemakers. “I don’t buy any grapes,” Pié begins, as he starts to walk through the vineyard. “Some are mine and others I have 10–15 contracts.” He manages the vineyards himself with occasional help from his father. “Everything is maintained ecologically. I don’t plow the native grasses, I just cut them. Each parcel only grows one variety,” he continues. “This particular variety is Xarelo, in Catalonian, Cartucha in Tarragonian and in Barcelona it is called Panza Blanca,” he says. “It can get a little confusing.” He also grows Xarelo Gris, Malvasia de Sitges, Mourvedre (called Monastrell in Spain) and Sumoy. Pié sticks to indigenous varieties and single-vineyard designated lots. His philosophy is to let the vineyard and the varietal speak for themselves. That is why he committed to making his wines in clay amphoras following an ancient tradition reaching back to the Romans. He even goes as far as to bury them in the vineyard, use the vineyard variety, the native yeast for fermentation and then age the wine on the skins in the vineyard for seven months. Pié strolls though the vineyard and crouches down into the yellow flower ground cover, then holds a vine in his hand. “These particular vines are 25 years old and planted by my father. Each of these vines produces about 3.3 pounds of grapes. My neighbor’s vines produce around 9 to 11 pounds per vine. I don’t use irrigation and I don’t blend. This way it reflects the maximum from the terroir,” he explains. Pié makes about 3,750 cases a year and 12 varieties. “It’s craziness,” he says. Pié has two labels. One is called Sicus and the other is called Sons. The Sicus label is fermented in amphoras in his winery. The grapes macerate on the skins for 10 days and then age in stainless steel tanks. Some varieties spend a month in amphoras before aging in stainless tanks. The Sons label is made entirely in the vineyard. The bottle has an owl on the label to reflect that the wine was made in a natural environment. Pié has 10 (60-liter) amphoras buried in his vineyards. “I harvest the grapes, de-stem them into the amphoras and then put whole clusters on the top to seal them. The grapes ferment and age on the skins for seven months without touching them. The authentic yeast comes from the vineyard,” he continues. He seals the lid of the clay amphoras with beeswax and doesn’t touch them until bottling. In mid conversation, Pié looks down and points to one of the amphora lids peeking out from the ground. It blended right into the rest of the earth.
T H E G AT H E R I N G TA B L E
AT T H E
(800) 638-2466 • ballardinn.com • 2436 BASELINE
3315 State St. & 1324 State St. Santa Barbara, California www.renaudsbakery.com (805) 569-2400
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 63
Eric Mohseni, director of winemaking at Zaca Mesa Winery, with two amphoras.
Pié follows this protocol and uses amphoras for a specific reason. “The microxygenation from the surrounding earth gives the wine a neutral flavor, the clay does not give wine flavors. But you have to know the clay and have it fired at a high enough temperature. Using clay is like fermenting with oxygenated glass,” he says. After harvesting the grapes, Pié covers the amphora tops with earth and insulates them for the winter. He doesn’t open them again until early April. Pié has done it this way for the last two years. “In 2012, I used to punch down every day. And then I began doing it less and less and noticed the wine was more fresh, more aromatic,” he concludes. Now Pié doesn’t touch the ferments at all until they are ready to bottle. When comparing his wines to wines from California, Pie responds, “I tried a Mourvedre from California, it was like a gorilla, like a King Kong.” “…For me, when a wine has acid, I’m happy. It’s an obsession. That is one of the characteristics that aging in an amphora can produce.” After walking through the vineyard, Pié tastes his wines in his rustic outdoor tasting room overlooking the pristine landscape. All the tables and chairs are made out of wooden pallets. “This is the ultimate technology,” he jokes. The Sicus and Sons labels are both aromatic with plenty of acid and a big mouthfeel. The colors are rich, clear and bright. This passionate winemaker is firm in his ideals and philosophy of minimal-intervention winemaking. It was truly 64 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
a great introduction to the progressive, boutique winemaking movement growing in Spain. Right after Longoria returned from Spain and his encounter with Pié, he started working on obtaining a pair of amphoras. He contacted Pié for help and advice. Pié answered the call and helped Longoria secure one amphora from master tinajero (amphora maker) Juan Padilla, in Castilla de la Mancha. Pié recommended this craftsman for the quality of clay and the process the master uses. The clay is dried slowly in autumn and spring and in May the jars get fired in a wood oven and then are ready to ship. The other vessel came from Girona, from Bonadona Ceramics, with the help of Longoria’s cork distributor David Mendoza. It took an entire year to make and ship the amphoras and they arrived just in time for the 2016 harvest. This size holds about 60 gallons each, approximately the same as a standard wine barrel. The amphoras had to be sanitized with tartaric acid and then coated on the inside with tartaric crystals, rinsed, then sulfured and sealed. Longoria didn’t age the wines in the amphoras because there was no way to seal them properly to keep out the oxygen. “I’ve only fermented in them,” he says. “These ferments were at a slightly warmer temperature.” Longoria took a quarter of his 2016 Albariño harvest (a white Spanish variety) and fermented it in his amphora from Padilla. The remaining grapes were fermented in stainless steel and the two ferments were then blended. In contrast to Pié, Longoria
is not averse to blending. When asked the difference between the wines and how he thought the clay vessel ferment affected the wine, Longoria says, “The difference between the two was that the amphora-fermented Albariño had more body. With the amphora the texture was richer, and the wine more advanced. I found it to be more developed. It felt more harmonious texturally and street-wise… but at the sacrifice of the aromatics. Wine that ferments at a higher temperature has a tendency to lose its aromatics. I thought it was better as a blending component than a stand-alone wine.” He blended the two ferments to produce his 2016 Albariño, which shows characteristics of the traditional Spanish white wine from Rias Biaxas. Longoria also fermented his 2014 Temprañillo in the amphora from Catalonia. “The ferment was slower,” he says. Of the 2014 Temprañillo, 20–25% of the harvest was fermented in amphora. The wine was then blended and is now aging in 35% new American oak for two years. “The difference in the Temprañillo vs. the Albariño wasn’t as great. The minerals in the clay produced less acid and higher pH,” Longoria says. He is looking into sealing the vessels with food-grade tallow and thinks it will function the same way as Pié’s beeswax. “I think Eduard is right: Fermentation and aging is the only way to know what the amphora itself can impart to the wine,”Longoria says. “That would be the interesting thing: to compare an amphora wine to a neutral barrel or stainless wine.” When asked if he would ferment and age on the skins this year like Pié, Longoria answers, “That is a really good question.” “Pié is a young, cutting-edge winemaker,” says Longoria. When asked about tasting his wines, Longoria replies, “I liked them.” That experimental mindset reviving in Spain with amphora technology seems to be taking hold on California’s Central Coast with Longoria being one of the first to experiment. It looks like what was old in winemaking is now becoming new again. Zaca Mesa Winery in Los Olivos has also been experimenting with clay amphoras. They got their first amphora in 2014 and are fermenting and aging their 2015 Syrah in that. They purchased a second amphora in 2016 and are aging a Mourvedre/Grenache blend and are looking to buy a third vessel. “I love the amphoras,” says Director of Winemaking Eric Mohseni. “It brings another spice to the rack. It provides a great expression of the varietal. I thought it captured the freshness of the fruit, more than a barrel. There is a different type of plushness and texture to the wine.” Other California wineries are also experimenting with clay vessels. Traditional cooperage distributors are beginning to offer clay amphoras from Italy and Spain to their traditional barrel customers. Zaca Mesa Winery bought its Italian Terracotta amphoras from iPak wine services in Paso Robles. That distributor is now following the new trend in winemaking and importing amphoras from Italy to meet what could possibly be increasing customer demands. Only time will tell.
OPEN –THURS: 12– 7PM, FRI & SAT: 11AM – 7PM, SUN: 11AM– 6PM, MON: 12– 4 PM
388 Bell Street, Los Alamos, CA 93440 805.344.1900 CasaDumetzWines.com
Catering & Events Tasting Counter at 380 Bell St., Los Alamos • 805 865-2282 • ValleFresh.com
Tecolote Book Shop Since 1925
1470 eaSt Valley rOad (upper VillaGe Of MOntecitO)
805 969-4977 Gift WrappinG • ShippinG • Special OrderS • BOOk SearcheS authOr appearanceS
TASTE The Magic of Mangalitsa USDA certified Mangalista pork
Carmen Smyth is a freelance journalist who lives in Ventura County and likes to report on wine news and trends here and abroad.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 65
66 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
Time to Gather Around the Table by Pascale Beale “If you really want to make a friend, go to someone’s house and eat with him… the people who give you their food give you their heart.” — Cesar Chavez
F
or the past 16-odd years I have met almost every month with a group of friends to discuss books. At least that is the premise of our little “book” club. We discuss a lot more. Over the years, as our lives have crisscrossed and as we have watched our children grow, we have giggled and laughed out loud, cried tears of joy and anguish, cheered on our kids from the sidelines and rejoiced in all the milestones as our families have evolved. We gather around each other’s dinner tables, share a meal and talk. This past January was to be no different. Two days before our get-together the usual string of emails flurried back and forth: “I’m bringing a salad” “I’ll bring dessert” “Wednesday at 7pm—see you then,” and so on. Then came the deluge. The New Year had bought clement weather to the Central Coast and a sense of peace had just begun to settle upon the town, so for everyone who lived through the long, ash-filled, weeks of the Thomas Fire, the very thought of the impending storm on January 9 was ominous. Everyone along the entire coastline held their collective breath and hoped we would all survive the dire weather predicted by the forecasters. Our nerves had already been rattled by weeks of incessant safety alerts on our phones, and everyone was tired: tired of evacuations, tired of packing and unpacking, tired of masks, tired of coughs, tired of the ash that crept into every nook and cranny, just plain tired. I woke up in the middle of the night to the thunderous noise of the rain pounding on the roof. No sooner had I gotten up to check outside than the severe emergency alerts blared again on my phone, announcing flash flood warnings, and to take protective action to stay safe. I kept my fingers crossed for all my friends who lived beneath the burn areas. At daybreak I sent out a message to our little group. “Everyone OK?” “Our house has gone,” was the shocking first reply. “Well, I won’t be hosting book club here anytime soon,” came the second.
“We’ve evacuated.” “We can’t get out…” Over the course of the next few hours it quickly became apparent that Mother Nature had wrought its worst. The mudflows decimated Montecito and the surrounding hillsides. Everyone was in shock. Thousands of people were displaced. Everyone checking in on everyone else and wondering what on earth we could do to help. Helicopters flew incessantly overhead ferrying the wounded and evacuating those trapped. It sounded like footage out of a war zone. Everyone asking questions: Who is missing? What happened to your home? When did you get out? How are you? Where are you going to go? Can you get to work? Can you get home? That first night as my family gathered in the kitchen, displaced friends arrived with their harrowing tales. I did what many people did that night—I cooked for them. Comfort food, lashings of it. Over the next few weeks this became our evening ritual. I cooked more food, more friends arrived, a bottle (or two) of wine was opened. We would nibble on some cheese and then sit down, eat and review the day. As we communed together we found our collective strength. I realized as the days wore on that this catastrophe triggered a visceral reaction in me. Sudden memories popped up at the most unexpected times, reminding me of past natural and not-so-natural disasters that we had lived through, all of them, oddly, occurring in the middle of the night. From fires and earthquakes to intruders, these unsettling events prompted a desire to be with our friends and family, to see and hold each other, and to draw solace from our common experience. We gathered around the table then too. Two-plus weeks into this odyssey our motley book club crew got back together, all of us finally in town, straggling in from disparate parts. We cooked up a storm, as the saying goes, huge bowls of salads, roast vegetables and lasagna. We toasted one another, grateful that we were all in one piece; we shared stories and laughed, and laughed, and laughed. How good that laughter felt!
Opposite: Shaved Asparagus, Broccolini and Farro Salad. MEDIA 27
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 67
After everyone had gone home, I stood in the now-quiet kitchen, putting away the last of the dishes, reflecting on the evening, the extraordinary survival stories and the good fortune that meant we were all still alive. Others—friends and neighbors, fellow Santa Barbarians—had not been so lucky, swept away by a twist of fate and a wall of mud. We mourned those lost, and turned to face the gargantuan task of rebuilding. In that process, a new sense of community and camaraderie emerged from the mudflows, not just in Montecito but throughout the county. People offered strangers their guest rooms, guest houses and couches to sleep on; bucket brigades were formed to clear out the mountains of mud; and cash mobs organized to support local businesses that have been
devastated, up and down the coast, by month-long closures. Social media was flooded with messages championing “buy local, shop local, stay local.” As I drove around town in the weeks and months that followed, picking up vegetables from the farmers market, fish from the harbor and cheese from my favorite fromagerie, I was reminded time and again that in times of crisis, the very act of sharing a meal with friends gives us comfort. Now, as we head into spring I’m looking forward to more spontaneous lunches and dinners in the garden, grateful to be sharing our local bounty, and happy just to be with friends gathered around the table. This is a menu for such an occasion. Bon appetit!
Recipes
Poached Salmon with a Citrus-Cardamom Beurre Blanc
Shaved Asparagus, Broccolini and Farro Salad
I love poached salmon for festive occasions and large gatherings. The beurre blanc sauce is a luscious extravagance (not a sauce I eat every day of the week) but perfect for a special treat.
A lovely, heartier variation of this dish is to add a poached egg onto each person’s salad. The egg is delicious when mixed in with the vegetables and farro. Makes 8 servings 11 ⁄ 2 cups farro, well rinsed Olive oil 1
⁄ 2 pound baby broccoli or broccolini, sliced vertically
Salt Pepper Zest and juice of 1 lemon 1 pound asparagus (thick stalks), shaved with a vegetable peeler into thin strips 1 bunch watercress, tough stems removed 1
⁄ 2 cup almonds, finely chopped
Makes 8 servings
FOR THE COURT BOUILLON 2 carrots, peeled and cut into ½-inch slices 1 leek, cleaned and cut into ½-inch slices 1 onion, coarsely chopped 1 small bouquet garni (1 bay leaf, 6 –8 stems parsley, 6– 8 stems fresh thyme), tied with string 2 quarts water 1 cup white wine 1 large pinch salt
Put all the ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer, cover and cook for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, strain the court bouillon, discard the vegetables and let the liquid cool to room temperature.
3 ounces Parmesan, shaved into thin slices
FOR THE SALMON Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the farro and cook until al dente, and slightly chewy in texture, about 15–25 minutes. The best way to check for doneness is to taste! Drain the farro, fluff with a fork and let cool in a bowl or spread out on a rimmed sheet pan.
3-pound filet salmon
Pour a little olive oil into a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the broccolini, a pinch of salt and 4–5 grinds pepper, and cook for 2–3 minutes, or until just softened.
2 shallots, peeled and finely sliced
Court bouillon, see recipe above 6 sprigs fresh dill or the fronds from 1 fresh fennel bulb
In a large salad bowl, whisk together ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, the lemon zest and juice, a good pinch of salt and 6–7 grinds fresh black pepper to form an emulsion. Place salad servers over the vinaigrette.
Place the salmon on the rack in a fish poacher (it is difficult to poach a fish of this size without one, or use a very large shallow pan) and carefully pour in enough cooled court bouillon to completely cover the fish. Add some fresh dill or fennel fronds and the shallot slices. Bring to a simmer over medium heat.
Add the cooked farro, broccolini, shaved asparagus, watercress and almonds to the bowl, placing everything on top of the utensils. When ready to serve, toss well to combine. Top with the shaved Parmesan. Serve warm.
Simmer the fish gently until cooked through (count on 7–10 minutes cooking time per inch thickness of the fish). Lift the rack out of the poacher and set it on top of the poacher at a slight angle to let the bouillon drain.
68 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
JOSHUA CURRY
Gently turn the salmon over onto a serving platter and remove the skin. Serve with the beurre blanc sauce and roasted potatoes on page 70.
Zest and juice of 1 orange
FOR THE BEURRE BLANC SAUCE
2 tablespoons chives, finely chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil 3 shallots, peeled and finely chopped 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1
â „ 4 cup white wine
1 cup court bouillon or fish stock 3 cardamom pods, slightly crushed 2 tablespoons cream 1 cup unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces Zest and juice of 1 lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pour the olive oil into a medium-sized saucepan placed over mediumhigh heat. Add the shallots and cook for 2–3 minutes, until barely golden brown. Add the vinegar and white wine; cook, stirring occasionally, until almost completely evaporated. Pour the court bouillon (or fish stock) into the pan, add the cardamom pods and bring to a strong simmer. Cook for 3 minutes. Add the cream and continue cooking until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes more. Reduce the heat to low and add the pieces of butter one at a time, whisking constantly. Do not let the sauce boil as this will cause it to separate. Add the lemon juice, lemon zest, orange juice and orange zest, and add the salt and pepper to taste. Finally add the chives and whisk again. EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 69
Roasted Fingerlings Stuffed with Pesto This dish combines two of my favorite foods: fingerling potatoes and pesto. I love to find the first spring potatoes at the market and experiment with different preparations. This one is quick and easy to make. The dish pairs well with green salads, haricots verts and roasted kale, all sorts of roasts and alongside poached salmon. Makes 8 servings as a side dish 2 pounds fingerling potatoes Olive oil Salt Pepper 2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
For the pesto 2 cups packed basil leaves 1 cup parsley leaves 1 cup cilantro leaves 1
⁄ 3 cup grated Parmesan
1
⁄ 3 cup toasted pine nuts
1
⁄ 2 cup olive oil
Preheat oven to 375°. Place the potatoes on a shallow baking tray. Drizzle with a little olive oil, sprinkle with a little salt and add 6–7 grinds pepper. Roast the potatoes until they are golden and fork tender, about 30 minutes. While the potatoes are roasting, prepare the pesto. Place the basil, parsley and cilantro leaves into a food processor. Pulse until the herbs are finely chopped. Add the Parmesan and pine nuts. Pulse a few times more to combine the ingredients. With the machine running, pour in the olive oil and process until well blended but still moderately coarse. Spoon some pesto onto each potato and dot with the crumbled feta. Serve hot.
70 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
MEDIA 27
Slice open each potato lengthwise. Do not slice all the way through.
Preheat oven to 400°. Coat a 10- to 12-inch cake tin with a removable bottom with a little olive oil. Set aside. Whisk the egg whites until they hold firm peaks. Set aside. Place the butter in a large bowl. Using an electric mixer, beat until creamy. Add the sugar and beat 1 minute more. Add the orange juice and beat until smooth. Whisk in the lemon zest and juice, and then add the egg yolks 1 at a time, whisking until you have a smooth mixture. Add the flour, salt and wine to the egg yolk mixture and whisk until well combined. The batter may look a little granulated. Don’t panic.
MEDIA 27
Gently fold the egg whites into the batter. Pour half of the batter into the prepared cake tin. Distribute half of the grapes over the batter. Cover with the remaining batter and then scatter the remaining grapes over the surface. They will sink a little.
Genevieve’s Gateau In the first century AD, Pliny the Elder wrote in his remarkable book Naturalis Historia, “The Muscat grape has been grown for a long time in Beaumes and its wine is remarkable.” My grandmother obviously agreed with him as Muscat de Beaumes de Venise was one of her favorite wines. She loved to have a glass of it as an aperitif. I distinctly remember the first time she allowed me to have a taste. It was light, not too sweet, with the fragrance of orange blossoms and honey. I was therefore intrigued, whilst reading an old magazine on Provençal desserts, when I came across a cake using this wine and adapted the recipe to the cake we have here. Unfortunately my lovely “Mamie” had passed away before I could make it for her. This cake is a tribute to her and to all the “delices” she used to make for me as a child. Makes 8 servings 5 extra-large eggs, separated
Bake the cake for 30 minutes. Open the oven and carefully sprinkle the combined sugars and slivered almonds over the surface of the cake. Bake for a further 5–10 minutes, or until a knife inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean. Remove from the oven and serve at room temperature. Pascale Beale grew up in England and France surrounded by a family that has always been passionate about food, wine and the arts. She was taught to cook by her French mother and grandmother. She is the author of The Menu for All Seasons, Salade, Les Fruits and Les Legumes. Visit her website and blog: The Market Table at PascalesKitchen.com.
Christine Dahl Pastries
Santa Barbara’s Most Celebrated Pastry Chef Since 1995
Contact Christine
805 701-6846 cdpastries@gmail.com
[\
SantaBarbaraCakes.com
4 ounces sugar (1 ⁄ 2 cup plus 1 tablespoon) 5 ounces butter (11 ⁄ 4 sticks) Zest of 2 lemons and the juice of 1 ⁄ 2 lemon Juice of 1 orange
Michael’s Catering
8 ounces all-purpose unbleached flour (1¾ cups) 1
⁄ 2 teaspoon salt
11 ⁄ 3 cups Beaumes de Venise or Muscat wine 1 pound grapes (red or white seedless varieties) 1 tablespoon light brown sugar 1 tablespoon sugar (mix with the light brown sugar above in a small bowl) 1 tablespoon slivered almonds
Chef Michael Hutchings 805 568-1896 michaelscateringsb.com
Classic and Modern Cuisine for All Your Occasions EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 71
WSI PNRTI N E RG EED D I B LLEE EEVVEENNT S TS S AT U R D AY
S AT U R D AY
APRIL
APRIL
A Night in the French Quarter
Santa Barbara Vintners Weekend
Longoria Winemaker Dinner at the Gathering Table
5:30–7:30pm at Zaca Mesa Winery
The Spring Weekend is five days of wine, food and fun throughout Santa Barbara County. Throughout the weekend select wineries host own events: winemaker dinners, library tastings, new wine releases and barrel tastings. Get a Vintners Visa for unique and complimentary offerings at your choice of 12 tasting rooms. SBCountyWines.com
Join Rick and Diana Longoria at this highly anticipated annual dinner. Chef Budi Kazali will prepare a delicious five-course meal, expertly paired with Longoria wines. Reservations are limited. For more information and reservations, please contact The Ballard Inn at 805 688-7770 or 800 638-2466.
APRIL
14
A PR IL
Join Zaca Mesa for “A Night in the French Quarter.” Featuring authentic Cajun food, paired with Zaca Mesa wine, and a Zydeco band. We are bringing New Orleans culture to you! ZacaMesa.com.
19–23
S AT U R D AY
S AT U R D AY – S U N D AY
APRIL
APRIL
21
21–22
Santa Barbara Vintners Festival
Vintners Weekend Open House at the Winery
1– 4pm at River Park, Lompoc
10:30am–5:30pm at Babcock Winery, Lompoc
Join us for the original Santa Barbara County wine festival now in its 36th year. An afternoon of wine country wine tasting, locally crafted cuisine, cooking demos and music! More than 120 wineries and restaurants will participate. For information and tickets, visit SBCountyWines.com
21
6:30pm at the Gathering Table, Ballard
Celebrate Vintners Weekend with fabulous wine and food. Featuring tacos by Alvaro on Saturday and Scratch Kitchen on Sunday. Free to attend, wine and food for purchase. RSVP recommended for lunch. More info at BabcockWinery.com
S AT U R D AY – S U N D AY
S U N D AY
S U N D AY
T H U R S D AY
APRIL
APRIL
APRIL
APRIL
Vineyard Walk & Scavenger Hunt
Spring Open House and New Release Party
10:30am–1:30pm at Buttonwood Winery, Solvang Winemaker Karen Steinwachs will lead the walk around the vineyard with a wacky scavenger hunt and a few “wine stops” along the way. Ends with a seasonal brunch alongside the vineyard pond. Fabulous prizes to be awarded. Call 805 688-3032 or visit ButtonwoodWinery.com.
Noon–3pm at Longoria Winery Tasting Room, Lompoc Celebrate spring at the Longoria tasting room. Enjoy live music from Ben & Ash while you sip the latest Longoria wine releases. Gourmet tacos from Valle Fresh will be available for purchase.
El Encanto’s Winemaker Dinner series continues as guests enjoy regionallyinspired cuisine from executive chef Johan Denizot paired with exquisite Chateau d’Esclans wines. Welcome reception, multi-course meal and wine $120; for reservations call 805 770-3530.
W E D N E S D AY
T H U R S D AY
S AT U R D AY
MAY
MAY
MAY
Gourmet Make-Ahead Meals
Trivia Night with Madalena
Tacos & Trails
21–22 Earth Day Festival Saturday 11am–8pm; Sunday 11am–6pm Alameda Park, Santa Barbara
F E B R U A RY
The Community Environmental Council Earth Day Festival is the signature annual event for the region’s environmental organizations. Local food, live music and performances, 200+ eco-conscious vendors, kids activities, beer and wine garden. Free. For more info visit SBEarthDay.org
22
2
MAY
22
3
26
Winemaker Dinner 6:30pm at El Encanto, 800 Alvarado Pl., Santa Barbara
5
10am–2pm at Rm 27 at Schott Campus
6pm at August Ridge, Santa Barbara
10am–1pm at Zaca Mesa Winery
Save time and effort while you create delicious meals, prepared in advance, and presented to your family and friends as a taste delight. You will discover dishes that are simple and fresh, with a gourmet touch that makes them special. $61/pp; More info at www.sbcc.augusoft.net.
Madalena (local club member, SB tour guide and woman of many talents) leads this exciting night of trivia. Don’t miss this fun-filled evening, complete with $7 glasses of vino and your chance to win a bottle of ARV wine or olive oil to boot. More info at AugustRidge.com.
Join the annual Dog Walk in the Vineyards. Bring along your dogs and accompany the winemakers on a walking tour of the vineyards. Experience the beautiful views of the vineyards while learning about the estate grown wines. Afterwards, come back to the winery and enjoy the afternoon with a glass of wine and a catered taco lunch. ZacaMesa.com.
72 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
For updates and more details on these and other events, visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com S AT U R D AY
S AT U R D AY
S U N D AY
MAY
MAY
MAY
Roar & Pour Wine Festival
Farmers Market Cooking Demos
Foxen Second Sundays
5
5–8pm at Santa Barbara Zoo
M AY
Enjoy tastings from more than 30 local wineries on this spring evening when the animals stay out late and the entire zoo is open for guests to sip and stroll. Tasty treats from food trucks available for an additional cost. VIP ticket offers tasting of reserve wines and pairing of wine with appetizers. For ages 21 and over only. Visit SBZoo.org or call 805 962-5339 for more information.
12
13
10am, 11am and noon at SB Farmers Market at corner of Cota and Santa Barbara St.
12:30–3:30pm at Foxen Vineyard On the second Sunday of every month, Foxen hosts live music and a food truck on the property. This “Foxen Second Sunday” will feature live music by Clark Street Boys and Fire and Wine will have delicious wood-fired pizzas available for purchase. For more information contact Micaela Buchanan at events@ FoxenVineyard.com.
Be sure not to miss the debut of the Saturday Farmers Market Cooking Demos. Join us as we partner with our friends at Edible Santa Barbara to bring you live cooking demonstrations by some of our favorite chefs around town. You’ll learn tips and techniques for preparing seasonal offerings at the market. See EdibleSantaBarbara.com for more info.
S AT U R D AY
F R I D AY
S AT U R D AY
MAY
MAY
MAY
Louisiana-style Crawfish Boil
Date Night Spanish Tapas
Live Music & Wine
Noon at Buttonwood Winery, Solvang
6:30–9:30pm, The Food Liaison
1–4pm at Zaca Mesa Winery
Come out to the Buttonwood vineyard and devour some little mud-bugs and other grub, listen to the Zydeco Zippers and drink delicious Buttonwood wine. Tickets on sale in April. For more info, call 805 688-3032; ButtonwoodWinery.com.
Spend the evening celebrating and enjoying Spanish history, culture and cuisine while sipping wine and tasting food with your loved one. Menu: Sweet Pea Salad with Manchego, Herbs & Black Pepper Vinaigrette, Seared Scallops with Chermoula and Patatas Bravas. For more information, visit TheFoodLiaison.com.
Come spend Memorial Day Weekend at Zaca Mesa for an afternoon full of complimentary live music from Sean Wiggins. This event is free for everyone, so bring your friends, pack a picnic and buy a bottle of wine to enjoy for a great afternoon at the winery. ZacaMesa.com.
19
25
26
T H U R S D AY
S AT U R D AY
JUNE
JUNE
Educational Happy Hour
Los Olivos Jazz and Olive Festival
9
7
JU N E
5–8pm at August Ridge, Santa Barbara
10:30am–1:30pm at Lavinia Campbell Park, Los Olivos
Join us on First Thursday for an Educational Happy Hour at August Ridge. Enjoy $7 glasses of vino complete with fun facts, recipes and more. Don’t miss us on your art saturated night walk. More info at DowntownSB.org/ events/1st-thursday.
Spend a Saturday afternoon in the beautiful Santa Ynez Valley, tasting wine from 30 local wineries, listening to world-class professional jazz musicians and sampling 30 different olive-themed dishes prepared by local chefs. $60; JazzAndOliveFestival.org
S AT U R D AY
S U N D AY
S A T U R D A Y- S U N D A Y
S AT U R D AY
JUNE
JUNE
17
JUNE
23–24
JUNE
Painting in the Vineyard
Boozy Book Club
Summer Sippin’
1– 4pm at Sanford Winery
3:30pm at August Ridge, Santa Barbara
The beautiful valley and expansive vineyard provide a beautiful, stress-free environment that will both inspire your creative spirit and indulge the wine lover in you. Our trained artist will walk you through the entire painting process stepby-step. No previous painting experience necessary. $75; GypsyStudiosArt.com.
Join us for our June Boozy Book Club featuring Tangled Vines: Greed, Murder, Obsession, and an Arsonist in the Vineyards of California by Frances Dinkelspiel. The title says it all... you don’t want to miss this one. Meet at the tasting room for $5 glasses of delicious wine and fabulous discussion.
10am–4pm on the Foxen Canyon Wine Trail
Santa Barbara Wine Festival
16
30
Visit 12+ wineries along this breathtaking piece of Santa Barbara Wine Country and enjoy up to 20 oneounce tastings as you explore. Includes gift bag, commemorative glass and special item. Stops offer tastings, small bites and special activities. Tickets at SummerSipping2018.eventbrite.com
2–5pm at the Santa Barbara Natural History Museum Swirl, sip and savor wines from premier Central Coast wineries complemented with sweet and savory delectable delights on the beautiful grounds of the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History. For details and to purchase tickets visit SBNature.org/winefestival
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 73
edible
SA NTA BARBA R A COUNT Y
E AT DRINK LOC AL GUIDE & MAPS
Santa Barbara County has its own unique food tradition and lifestyle. We’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants, bakeries, food producers and specialty retail shops that contribute to the distinctively Santa Barbara experience. From Ballard to Carpinteria, and from catering to wine tasting, our Guide will help you find what you are looking for and more.
Ballard Ballard Inn & Gathering Table
Carpinteria
Goleta
The Food Liaison
Backyard Bowls
2436 Baseline Ave. 805 688-7770 BallardInn.com
1033 Casitas Pass Rd. 805 200-3030 TheFoodLiaison.com
5668 Calle Real 805 770-2730 BackyardBowls.com
Elegant accommodations, attentive staff and awardwinning cuisine make the Ballard Inn & Gathering Table one of the most sought-after small luxury inns in the Santa Barbara Wine Country.
Catering. Counter. Classes. Utilizing many locally grown organic ingredients, enjoy daily rotating entrées and soups, seasonal menu and gourmet salad bar. Corporate and event catering since 2013. Sign up for cooking classes online. Lunch counter Mon–Fri 11am–3pm.
Santa Barbara’s most innovative breakfast and lunch spot featuring Acai Bowls and smoothies. They also offer oatmeal, yogurt and more.
Buellton Alma Rosa Winery 250 Industrial Way A 805 688-9092 AlmaRosaWinery.com Alma Rosa wines express the distinctive spirit and character of the soils, sun exposure, fog, cooling winds and over four decades of experience in this beautiful Sta. Rita Hills sub-region of Santa Barbara wine country. Tasting room open Fri–Sun 11am–5:30pm; Mon–Thur noon–5:30pm.
Margerum Wine Company 59 Industrial Way 805 686-8500 MargerumWines.com Located at the gateway to the Sta. Rita Hills, Margerum now offers tasting at their winery on Industrial Way in Buellton. Taste Margerum and Barden releases, sample wine from tank or barrel and tour the winery. Open Sat and Sun 11am–5pm.
The Hitching Post II 406 E. Hwy. 246 805 688-0676 HitchingPost2.com A favorite of locals and visitors since 1986. Serving wood-grilled fare, prepared in the regional barbecue tradition, along with their highly regarded Hitching Post Wines. Casual and relaxed setting.
74 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
Giannfranco’s Trattoria 666 Linden Ave. 805 684-0720 Giannfrancos.com Experience authentic Italian regional cuisine at this family-owned and family-operated trattoria in downtown Carpinteria. Chef Giovanni prepares each dish from the freshest local and imported foods to offer his creative take on Tuscan grill specialties. Weekday lunch served 11am–3pm. Weekend lunch served noon–3pm. Dinner served 5–9pm; closed Tue.
HEAT Culinary 4642 Carpinteria Ave. 805 242-1151 HeatCulinary.com Santa Barbara County’s culinary school, food truck and full service caterer. HEAT events are known for personalized service, organic ingredients, large portions and attention to detail. Offering originality and undivided attention to create a memorable event.
Sly’s 686 Linden Ave. 805 684-6666 SlysOnline.com Sly’s is known for great food, with an emphasis on farmers market and local produce, great cocktails and great times in Carpinteria. Open Mon–Fri for lunch 11:30am–3pm; lounge menu weekdays 3–5pm; dinner Sun–Thu 5–9pm, Fri and Sat 5–10pm; and weekend brunch & lunch Sat–Sun 9am–3pm.
Ca’ Dario Cucina Italiana 250 Storke Rd. 805 884-9419 CaDario.net Chef and owner Dario Furlati brings his signature pastas, pizzas and authentic Italian dishes to a casual, family-friendly eatery in the heart of Goleta. Daily specials, friendly service, handsome ambiance and an extensive list of Italian and California wines offer a delightful dining experience in the Goodland. Open Mon–Sat 11am-9pm.
The French Press & Dune Coffee Roasters
250 Storke Rd. 1A 805 968-0493 DuneCoffeeRoasters.com Sourcing, roasting and serving the best coffees from around the world. They love serving their carefully selected coffees and in-house-baked pastries and bread to the community. Visit The French Press & Dune Coffee Roasters and let them show you the magic of coffee! Open Mon–Fri 6am–7pm, Sat–Sun 7am–7pm.
Lompoc Central Coast Specialty Foods 115 E. College Ave., Ste. 10 805 717-7675 CentralCoastSpecialtyFoods.com High-quality local & imported specialty foods, including charcuterie, gourmet cheeses, a fullservice deli, exotic meats (alligator, wild boar, bison and more), specialty foods from around the world,
and local beers and wines. Catering available; small intimate affairs to large special events. Open Mon– Wed 10am–6pm, Thu–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat 10am–6pm and Sun 10am–4pm.
Babcock Winery & Vineyards 5175 E. Hwy. 246, Lompoc 805 736-1455 BabcockWinery.com A passion for revolutionary farming and conservation continue to define this family-owned Sta. Rita Hills winery. Stunning single-vineyard Pinot Noirs are showcased alongside acclaimed Chardonnays and other varietals. Chill in the super soulful tasting room filled with vintage art and eclectic treasures. Tasting room open daily 11am–5:30pm.
Kitá Winery 300 N. 12th St., Unit 1A 805 819-1372 KitaWines.com Established in 2010 as a small, premium wine producer, Kita’s focus is on respecting the balance of soil, climate, location and taste. The word “Kita” means “our valley oak” in the Santa Ynez Chumash language of Samala. Tasting room opening soon.
Longoria Wines 415 E. Chestnut Ave. 866-759-4637 LongoriaWine.com Longoria Wines is a small family-owned winery with over three decades of producing acclaimed artisanal wines from some of the finest vineyards in Santa Barbara County. Enjoy a tasting or a glass of wine in the tasting room or lounge of the restored historic JM Club at their new winery facility in Lompoc, open daily 11am–4:30pm.
Scratch Kitchen 610 N. H St. 805 819-0829 Scratch-Kitchen.com With a wealth of local and seasonal produce and local wines, Scratch Kitchen aims to highlight all the best culinary elements of the Lompoc and Santa Ynez Valleys. Open for lunch and dinner Tue–Sat 11am–9pm, brunch Sun 10am–2pm and Sun dinner 5pm–9pm.
Los Alamos Babi’s Beer Emporium 380 Bell St. 805 344-1911 BabisBeerEmporium.com Great beer. Impeccable selection. Great fun. Adventurous beer drinkers can discover unique, hardto-find craft beers, ciders and special projects—on tap or in bottle. Stay to have a bite from Valle Fresh’s tacos and tapas menu. Thu 4–8pm, Fri–Sat noon–8pm, Sun noon–6pm.
Bob’s Well Bread 550 Bell St. 805 344-3000 BobsWellBread.com Making bread the old-fashioned way: handcrafted in small batches with the finest ingredients and baked to perfection in a custom-built stone-deck oven. Drop in to taste what visitors and journalists are raving about as “worth the drive”—signature Pain au Levain, awardwinning artisanal breads, croissants and specialty pastries. All-day menu of made-to-order breakfast,
lunch and weekly special dishes. Indoor-outdoor picturesque café. Thu–Mon 7am–6pm. Café closes at 3pm. Closed Tue and Wed.
Casa Dumetz 388 Bell St. 805 344-1900 CasaDumetzWines.com A boutique winery specializing in Rhône varietals crafted with premier Santa Barbara County fruit. Their wines are sold almost exclusively at their tasting room in historic Los Alamos and through their wine club. Open Thu noon–7pm; Fri–Sat 11am–7pm; Sun 11–6pm. Vineyard tours and barrel sampling available by appointment.
Martian Ranch & Vineyard 9110 Alisos Canyon Rd. 805 344-1804 MartianVineyard.com The Martian Ranch tasting room is open Wed–Sun 11am–5pm. Taste their estate-grown biodynamically farmed wines for an out-of-this-world experience! Winery tours daily; vineyard tours on the weekends. Enjoy wines by the glass, bocce court, horseshoe pit and dog-friendly picnic areas. Open Wed–Sun 11am–5pm. Mon and Tues by appointment only.
Plenty on Bell 508 Bell St. 805 344-2111 PlentyOnBell.com Longtime Los Alamos chef and local favorite Jesper Johansson is back in the kitchen at Plenty on Bell, serving local, seasonal food. Open for breakfast and lunch Tue–Sat 8am–3pm; dinner Fri only 5:30–8pm. Closed Monday.
Valle Fresh at Babi’s Beer Emporium
388 Bell St. 805-865-2282 ValleFresh.com Tasting counter now open inside Babi’s Beer Emporium in Los Alamos. Specializing in handcrafted, genuine food sourced from local farms, ranches and artisans. This family-owned catering company offers personalized menus for all occasions including weddings, pop-up events, food and wine pairings, themed dinners, gourmet taco bars and more. Thu– Sat noon–8pm, Sun noon–5pm.
Los Olivos Andrew Murray Vineyards 5249 Foxen Canyon Rd. 805 686-9604 AndrewMurrayVineyards.com Andrew Murray, a grape-growing pioneer and Rhône varietal visionary in Santa Barbara County, founded his winery in 1990. Andrew and his team look forward to sharing the AMV experience with you at their stunning Estate Winery and Visitor Center along Foxen Canyon Road. Tasting room open daily 10:30am–5:30pm.
Dreamcôte 2933 San Marcos Ave. 805 691-1200 DreamcoteWines.com
wines plus hard apple ciders alongside fun flavored popcorn. Open Thu–Mon 11am–5pm.
Olive Hill Farm 2901 Grand Ave. 805 693-0700 OliveHillFarm.com Specializing in local olive oils, flavored oils and balsamic vinegars as well as many locally produced food products. Olive oil and vinegar tastings with fresh local bread available. Open daily 11am–5pm.
R&D los olivos 505 999-7752 RandDlosolivos.com R&D los olivos offers an ever-changing curated collection of fine jewelry, art and gifts handmade by artisans. Jewels and treasures for every day, located in Los Olivos, the heart of Santa Barbara wine country. Featuring Diane Dorsey Jewelry, DianeDorsey.com.
Zaca Mesa Winery 6905 Foxen Canyon Rd. 805 688-9339 ZacaMesa.com Since 1973, Zaca Mesa Winery has crafted distinctive wines from their unique mesa-top vineyard. As an early pioneer of the region, they now have 150 acres planted, specializing in the production of estategrown Rhône-style wines. Tasting room and picnic area open daily 10am–4pm. Call for more information on winery tours and private event space.
Montecito American Riviera Bank 525 San Ysidro Rd. 805-335-8110 AmericanRivieraBank.com Offering a local and sustainable approach to banking. The founders of American Riviera Bank are a carefully selected group of successful, prominent, experienced and influential community and business leaders who understand the unique needs of the Santa Barbara community. Open Mon–Thu 9am–5pm; Fri 9am–5:30pm.
Bree’Osh 1150 Coast Village Rd. 805 969-2500 Breeosh.com Bree’Osh is a French artisan bakery café specializing in sweet and savory brioche bread made with traditional sourdough. Featuring local, organic, high-quality ingredients. Open Wed–Fri 7am–3pm; Sat–Sun 7am–2pm. Closed Mon–Tue.
Here’s the Scoop 1187 Coast Village Rd. 805 969-7020 ScoopSB.com Here’s the Scoop is a local, family-owned business that makes traditional Italian gelato flavors like Stracciatella and Pistachio. Their seasonal farmers market sorbets use local, organic farm-fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs. Sorbets are non-dairy, organic and vegan. Mon–Thu 1–9pm, Fri–Sat noon–10pm, Sun noon–9pm.
Dreamcôte strives to produce 600 cases of delicious, fruit-forward wines—fresh and juicy as the day they were picked. The tasting room is casual, fun and all welcoming. Come taste a unique selection of craft
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 75
Montecito Country Mart
Telegraph Brewing Co.
Barbareño
1016 Coast Village Rd. 805 969-9664 MontecitoCountryMart.com
418 N. Salsipuedes St. 805 963-5018 TelegraphBrewing.com
205 W. Canon Perdido 805 963-9591 Barbareno.com
The Montecito Country Mart, built in 1964, has recently been renovated and preserved, with its original barber shop, post office, market, oldfashioned toy store, as well as Rori’s Ice Cream and Merci to Go artisan food shop. Independent boutique shops include Mate Gallery, Kendall Conrad, Calypso, Malia Mills, Hudson Grace, James Perse and Space NK Apothecary. Shops open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat– Sun 10am–5pm.
Handcrafting unique American ales that embrace the heritage of California’s early brewing pioneers and use as many locally grown ingredients as possible. Visit the tasting room, open Tue–Thu 3–9pm; Fri–Sat 2–10pm; Sun 1–7pm. Telegraph beer is available at many restaurants and grocery stores in Santa Barbara County and throughout California.
Offering a casual approach to the classic California tavern, highlighting the traditions and specialties of the Central Coast and its many outstanding purveyors. Sit inside and enjoy the enticing atmosphere of an open kitchen, or outside on the patio alongside the Santa Maria grill. Dinner nightly 5–9:30pm; barbecue lunch Thu–Fri 11:30am–2pm; closed Tue.
Montecito Village Grocery 1482 E. Valley Rd. 805 969-1112 MontecitoGrocery.com Offering local and organic produce, full service butcher and deli, gourmet cheese, chef prepared dishes, amazing wines and craft beers. Great selection of non-dairy, gluten free, vegetarian and vegan products. Convenient parking and friendly staff. Open daily 7am–8pm.
San Ysidro Ranch 900 San Ysidro Ln. Santa Barbara 805 565-1724 SanYsidroRanch.com Visit the Stonehouse, named one of the 50 Best Restaurants in America by Open Table, or visit Plow & Angel for a comfortable and convivial atmosphere. Temporarily closed.
Tecolote Bookstore 1470 E. Valley Rd. 805 969-4977
The Dining Room at Belmond El Encanto 800 Alvarado Pl. 805 770-3530 Belmond.com/ElEncanto Dine in the elegant Dining Room or delight in a romantic dinner under the stars on The Terrace. An innovative menu presented by Chef Johan Denizot offers contemporary California-coastal cuisine, complemented with gracious service and a side of stunning Santa Barbara views. Open 7am–10pm daily.
Santa Barbara (Downtown) American Riviera Bank 1033 Anacapa St. 805 965-5942 AmericanRivieraBank.com Offering a local and sustainable approach to banking. The founders of American Riviera Bank are a carefully selected group of successful, prominent, experienced and influential community and business leaders who understand the unique needs of the Santa Barbara community. Open Mon–Thu 8am–5pm, Fri 8am–6pm.
Au Bon Climat
Tecolote Bookstore is an independent bookstore located in the upper village of Montecito. Open Mon–Fri 10am–5:30pm; Sat 10am–5pm; closed Sun.
813 Anacapa St. 805 963-7999 AuBonClimat.com
Santa Barbara
The tasting room and the Jim Clendenen Wine Library are known for world-class Chardonnays and Pinots. Jim Clendenen has been making wines of vision and character for over 30 years, along with other varietals. Amazing lineup of current releases and library wines available. Tasting room open Mon–Fri noon–6pm, Sat and Sun 11am–6pm.
Backyard Bowls 3849 State St. 805 569-0011 BackyardBowls.com Santa Barbara’s most innovative breakfast and lunch spot featuring Acai Bowls and smoothies. They also offer oatmeal, yogurt and more.
Il Fustino 3401 State St. 805 845-3521 ilFustino.com Il Fustino is Santa Barbara’s first and finest olive oil and vinegar tasting room. Il Fustino purveys only the finest and freshest olive oils, all grown and milled in California. They also provide an unparalleled selection of artisan vinegars.
Renaud’s Patisserie & Bistro 3315 State St. 805 569-2400 RenaudsBakery.com Renaud’s is a bakery specializing in French pastries and French-style cakes, as well as a bistro offering an extensive menu for breakfast and lunch. Open Mon– Sat 7am–5pm; Sun 7am–3pm.
76 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
August Ridge Vineyards 5 E. Figueroa St. 805 770-8442 AugustRidge.com August Ridge crafts wine that combines the spirit of California with the restrained, classic elegance of wines from northern and central Italy. Distinctive wines from the Paso Robles region to be opened as you gather for a meal, surrounded by friends, family and loved ones. Tasting room open Sun–Mon, Wed– Thu noon–7pm, Fri–Sat noon–8pm. Happy Hour Mon and Wed 3–6pm. Closed Tuesday.
Backyard Bowls 331 Motor Way 805 845-5379 BackyardBowls.com Santa Barbara’s most innovative breakfast and lunch spot featuring Acai Bowls and smoothies. They also offer oatmeal, yogurt and more.
Bouchon 9 W. Victoria St. 805 730-1160 BouchonSantaBarbara.com Bouchon sources all of its ingredients using an “asfresh-and-as-local-as-possible” approach. Experience fine dining, excellent regional wines and relaxed service in a warm, inviting ambience. Private dining in the Cork Room is available for groups of 10–20. Dinner nightly 5–10pm.
Ca’ Dario 37 E. Victoria St. 805 884-9419 CaDario.net Chef Dario Furlati’s flagship eatery offers a fine Italian dining experience featuring authentic recipes made with fresh, local ingredients. Handmade pastas, local seafood, weekly farmers market specials and an extensive Italian wine list. Located in the heart of the downtown Arts District. Serving lunch and dinner Sun–Thu 11:30am–10pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–10:30pm.
Ca’ Dario Pizzeria Veloce 38 W. Victoria St. 805 884-9419 CaDarioPizza.net Located inside the Public Market, just a block away from Chef Dario Furlati's flagship eatery, Ca'Dario Pizzeria offers a casual, urban atmosphere to enjoy authentic pizzas, salads and appetizers. Open daily 11am–9pm.
Carr Winery 414 N. Salsipuedes Street 805 965-7985 CarrWinery.com Visit the 1940s Quonset Hut in downtown Santa Barbara and enjoy the ambiance of a working winery while sipping on delicious wines on the patio or at the beautiful barrel top bar. Wines by the glass, wine tasting, and wine on tap served daily. Monthly art shows and live music. Open daily 11am–9pm, Sun 11am–6pm.
C’est Cheese 825 Santa Barbara St. 805 965-0318 CestCheese.com A local source for the finest cheeses and artisanal foods. Open Tue–Fri 9am–6pm; Sat 8am–6pm; Sun 9am–3pm. Closed Mon.
Chocolate Maya
Renaud’s Patisserie & Bistro
15 W. Gutierrez St. 805 965-5956 ChocolateMaya.com
1324 State St. 805 892-2800 RenaudsBakery.com
Chocolate Maya handmade chocolate confections: a variety of velvety truffles and chocolate-dipped temptations that are made from the highest-quality chocolate (Valrhona, Felchlin, Mesocacao including some small bean-to-bar artisans couverture) fresh local ingredients and some exotic findings from their travels overseas.
Renaud’s is a bakery specializing in French pastries and French-style cakes, as well as a bistro offering an extensive menu for breakfast and lunch. Open Mon–Sat 7am–5pm, Sun 7am–3pm.
Corazón Cocina 38 W. Victoria 805 845-0282 CorazonCocinaSB.com Located inside the Santa Barbara Public Market, offering homemade, local, unique and fresh cocina Mexicana. Join Chef Ramón Velazquez for fresh ceviches, mouthwatering tacos and homemade agua frescas. Open daily 11am–9pm.
Grapeseed Company 21 W. Ortega St. 805 456-3655 TheGrapeseedCompany.com The Grapeseed Company creates botanical spa and skin care products handcrafted from the byproduct of wine plus antioxidant-rich local and organic ingredients. Open Mon–Fri 10:30am–6pm, Sat 11am–5pm, closed Sun.
Il Fustino 38 W. Victoria St. 805 845-4995 ilFustino.com Located inside the Santa Barbara Public Market, Il Fustino is Santa Barbara’s first and finest olive oil and vinegar tasting room. Il Fustino purveys only the finest and freshest olive oils, all grown and milled in California. They also provide an unparalleled selection of artisan vinegars. Open daily 10am–8pm.
Margerum Wine Company 813 Anacapa St. 805 845-8435 MargerumWineCompany.com Located in the historic El Paseo complex, Margerum offers two venues for tasting in Downtown Santa Barbara. Enjoy a tasting (or a glass) of handcrafted, small production Margerum and Barden wines sourced from top vineyards around Santa Barbara County. Open Mon–Wed noon–5pm, Thu–Sun noon–6pm.
McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams 728 State St. 805 324-4402 McConnells.com McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams, founded in Santa Barbara in 1949, is now in its third generation of family ownership. They make their ice creams as they always have: from scratch, using Central Coast, grass-grazed milk, cream and the finest local, sustainable and organic ingredients from partner farms, artisans and purveyors they’ve worked with for decades. No preservatives. No stabilizers. No additives. Ever. A 70-year sweet legacy of keeping it real.
Savoy Café & Deli 24 W. Figueroa St. 805 962-6611 TheSavoyCafe.com A family owned and operated café featuring scratch cooking. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner for the past 12 years. Award-winning salad bar, bakery, soup, hot and cold prepared foods, coffee and tea bar and excellent selection of wines by the glass. Cozy atmosphere, dog friendly patio. Open Mon–Sat 7–9pm, Sun 8am–8pm.
Savoy Wines 18 W. Anapamu St. 805 962-5353 SavoyWinesSB.weebly.com Locally owned and operated, Savoy Wines is Santa Barbara’s go-to wine shop. Boasting an extensive local and import selection, the shop offers one-ofa-kind ambiance, with knowledgeable, friendly and outgoing staff to assist you in finding that perfect bottle, in a relaxed vibe, smack dab in the middle of downtown Santa Barbara. Open Mon–Sat 11am–7pm, Sun noon–6pm.
Smithy Kitchen + Bar 7 E. Anapamu St. 805 845-7112 SmithySB.com Smithy Kitchen + Bar features local farm-to-table ingredients that are rustic and approachable while still being nuanced. Featuring small plates meant to be shared family style, Smithy is the perfect place to enjoy a night out. Dine in the whitewashed reclaimed wood interior or outside on rustic benches under hundred-year-old olive trees. Happy hour daily 4–6pm, dinner 4–9:30pm, lunch Mon–Fri 11:30am– 2:30pm, brunch Sun 10am–2pm.
The French Press & Dune Coffee Roasters
1101 State St. and 528 Anacapa St. 805 963-2721/805 962-7733 DuneCoffeeRoasters.com Sourcing, roasting and serving the best coffees from around the world. They love serving their carefully selected coffees and baked-in-house pastries and bread to the community. Visit The French Press & Dune Coffee Roasters and let them show you the magic of coffee! Open Mon–Fri 6am–7pm, Sat–Sun 7am–7pm.
The Wine Cask 813 Anacapa St. 805 966-9463 WineCask.com The Wine Cask Restaurant features the freshest local ingredients, the best wine list in town and seasonal signature cocktails. They offer fine dining in their exquisite Gold Room and casual dining in the courtyard and at their Intermezzo bar. Lunch: Tue–Fri 11:30am–3pm. Dinner: Tue–Sun from 5:30pm. Last seating at 9pm Sun–Thu and at 10pm Fri–Sat.
Santa Barbara (Funk Zone) Lama Dog 116 Santa Barbara St. 805 880-3364 LamaDog.com Craft beer taproom and bottle shop located in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone. Open Sun–Wed 11:30am–10pm, Thu 11:30am–11pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–midnight. @lamadog
The Lark 131 Anacapa St., Ste. A 805 284-0370 TheLarkSB.com The Lark, Santa Barbara’s premier dining destination, features locally sourced seasonal ingredients celebrating the abundant bounty of the Central Coast. Meals are served family-style with handcrafted cocktails and an extensive wine list to complement Chef Jason Paluska’s creations. Open Tue–Sun 5–10pm.
Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant
131 Anacapa St., Ste. B 805 284-0380 LesMarchandsWine.com Les Marchands is a European-style wine bar and retail shop with a world-class team of sommeliers providing unique experiences in wine, food and education. With an extensive wine list, Les Marchands offers something for everyone. Open Sun–Thu 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm.
Lucky Penny 127 Anacapa St. 805 284-0358 LuckyPennySB.com Offering casual dining fare of breakfast goodies, espressos, coffees and teas, wood-fired pizzas, sandwiches and salads, beer and wine. Outdoor patio seating. Located in the heart of Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone. Open Sun–Thu 11am–9pm, Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.
Riverbench Vineyard & Winery 137 Anacapa St., Ste. C 805 324-4100 Riverbench.com Established in 1973, when the first Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes were planted on the property. For years since then, some of the most renowned wineries have purchased Riverbench fruit for their wines. In 2004, Riverbench began producing their own still and sparkling wines in limited quantities, with many available exclusively through their tasting rooms in Santa Maria and Santa Barbara. Open 11am–6pm daily.
Santa Barbara Wine Collective 131 Anacapa St., Ste. C 805 456-2700 SantaBarbaraWineCollective.com Santa Barbara Wine Collective is a downtown tasting room for five local like-minded producers focusing on Santa Barbara County’s unique terroir. Wines are available for tastings, by the glass or bottle or to take home. Open Sun–Thu 11am–7pm, Fri–Sat 11am–8pm.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 77
Santa Barbara (Mesa) Chooket 2018 Cliff Dr. 805 845-5519 Chooket.com Chooket is a French bakery specializing in individual fine pastries, cakes of French traditions, catering events and weddings. This pretty boutique is the kingdom of cream puffs, eclairs, fresh fruit tarts and offers seasonal menus. Artisan bakery, all treats are made on site and only with fresh ingredients. Open Tue–Sat 10am–6pm. Closed Sun–Mon.
Lazy Acres 302 Meigs Rd. 805 564-4410 LazyAcres.com Santa Barbara’s best source for wholesome, natural and organic foods and products with real people dedicated to providing unmatched personal service. Mon–Sat 7am–11pm, Sun 7am–10pm.
Santa Maria Cambria Estate Winery 5475 Chardonnay Ln. 805 938-7318 CambriaWines.com Family-owned, sustainably farmed estate winery. Visit and experience the flavors of the Santa Maria Bench. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Viognier and Syrah. Open daily 10am–5pm.
Foxen Vineyard & Winery 7200 and 7600 Foxen Canyon Rd. 805 937-4251 FoxenVineyard.com The Foxen Boys’ winery and tasting room features Burgundian and Rhône-style wines. Visit the historic shack “Foxen 7200” for Italian and Bordeaux-style wines. Picnic tables and scenic views at both locations. Open 11am–4pm daily.
Riverbench Vineyard & Winery 6020 Foxen Canyon Rd. 805 937-8340 Riverbench.com Established in 1973, when the first Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes were planted on the property. For years since then, some of the most renowned wineries have purchased Riverbench fruit for their wines. In 2004, Riverbench began producing their own still and sparkling wines in limited quantities, with many available exclusively through their tasting rooms in Santa Maria and Santa Barbara. Open 10am–4pm daily.
Santa Ynez Carr Warehouse 3563 Numancia Street 805 688-5757 CarrWinery.com Visit Carr Winery’s 3,800-square-foot climate-controlled wine storage facility in downtown Santa Ynez. The warehouse is where all of the Carr Wines are waxed and bottle aged. The facility has an open floor plan with a u-shaped bar and booths for visitors to enjoy wine tastings and wines by the glass. Live music on the First Friday of each month. Open daily 11am–6pm, Fri 11am–8pm.
78 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
SY Kitchen 1110 Faraday St. 805 691-9794 SYKitchen.com Modern Northern Italian dishes showcasing local ingredients and Chef Luca Crestanelli’s light touch. Specialties include homemade pastas; pizzas served from the wood-fired oven; oak-grilled chicken, seafood, lamb and steak. The bar features dazzling cocktails crafted by Alberto Battaglini. Also featured is The Courtyard, a casual outdoor lounge with full service dining. Lunch daily 11:30am–2:30pm, Aperitivo Mon–Thu 4–5:30pm, Dinner Sun–Thu 5–9pm and Fri–Sat 5–9:45pm.
Solvang Buttonwood Farm Winery 1500 Alamo Pintado Rd. 805 688-3032 ButtonwoodWinery.com In 1968 Betty Williams came to Buttonwood, creating a life that found expression through a connection with the land. The vineyard now has 33,000 vines with a mix of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Marsanne, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Tasting room open daily 11am–5pm.
Solvang Olive Company 1578 Mission Dr. 805 213-1399 SolvangOliveCo.com Solvang Olive features locally grown olive oils, fruit and balsamic vinegar and hand-crafted gourmet olives. The Solvang store also carries olive oil beauty products, tableware and cooking ingredients created by Californian artisans. Tasting room open Wed–Thu 10am–4pm, Fri–Sun 9am–5pm.
Source Guide Bragg Live Foods Bragg.com Founded in 1912 by Dr. Paul C. Bragg and now run by his daughter Dr. Patricia Bragg in Goleta, Bragg Live Food Products offers organic and natural health products and publishes self-health books. Available locally at Fairview Gardens’ Farm Stand, Lassen’s, Gladden and Sons, Tri-County Produce, Whole Foods Market, Lazy Acres and in the health section of your neighborhood grocery store.
Ron Helman Jazz 505 603-3648 RonHelmanMusic.com Ron Helman draws from the great jazz songbook of the 1950s and ’60s to play for big and small Central Coast events. No gimmicks here, just straight-ahead jazz that puts a smile on your face and a dance in your step.
Michael’s Catering 805 568-1896 MichaelsCateringSB.com Offering classic and modern cuisine for all your occasions, Chef Michael Hutchings has the culinary expertise and experience to provide your guests with a memorable dining experience. French, Italian, Thai, American and a host of other great cuisines can grace your table. The possibilities are endless. Enjoy your next party and have a professional chef take all the worry out of catering.
On Q Financial 1332 Anacapa St. 805 845-0694 OnQFinancial.com Since 2013, On Q Financial’s goal has been to ensure the mortgage process is streamlined and smooth for every client. Their team even works closely with community partners to provide homebuyers’ workshops to the Santa Barbara community. They are ready to help you purchase a home or refinance your existing home loans—in Santa Barbara and beyond.
Plow to Porch 805 895-7171 PlowToPorch.com Plow to Porch Organics is a local organic/pesticide-free produce and grocery delivery service to members who subscribe. They simplify the purchase of local fresh organic produce and other organic, local foods in order to inspire good nutrition, support local farmers, protect the environment and make eating healthy food fun!
Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market 805 962-5354 SBFarmersMarket.org Six markets, six days a week. Schedule on page 17.
Santa Barbara–Tree Farm CalAtlanticHomes.com Brand new homes in the foothills of Santa Barbara County in a 26-acre setting.
Christine Dahl Pastries
Sirona Cleanse
805 701-6846 SantaBarbaraCakes.com
The Sirona Cleanse is a mild and easy to follow cleanse that achieves optimum results. Prepared, delicious alkalizing whole foods and juices that are 100% vegan and completely gluten free delivered to your door. Offering 3-day, 5-day and custom programs. SironaCleanse.com
Santa Barbara’s most celebrated pastry chef since 1995, Christine Dahl is renowned for her visually stunning and delicious wedding and special occasion cakes as well as her classic pastries. In an era of mass production, Christine stands out as an old world craftsman creating marvels from fine ingredients. Toppings and fillings like lemon curd, chocolate mousse and buttercream are foils for her hand-applied designs.
Jimenez Family Farm 805 688-0597 JimenezFamilyFarm.com Small family-run local farm specializes in sustainably grown food and their famous handmade pies, quiches and small-batch preserves. Visit them at the farmers market to purchase produce, pies, jams and naturally fed and farm-raised rabbit, lamb, pork, goat and poultry.
Winfield Farm 805 686-9312 WinfieldFarm.us Taste the magic of Winfield Mangalitsa! Mangalitsa ground pork (the real hamburger) and hickory smoked bacon are now featured in the Larder Meat Company’s Larder Club meat box, delivered monthly throughout California (sign up at http://www.lardermeatco.com). You can also order through our Mangalitsa Market on the Winfield Farm website—please call first! Follow us on Facebook (WinfieldFarmBuellton), Twitter (@ WinfieldFarm.us) and Instagram (Winfield_Farm).
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2018 | 79
THE
L
AS
T
Bite
Spring’s
Don’t-Miss Dish Photos & words by Liz Dodder
House Maltagliati with Fava Beans, Cured Egg Yolk, Local Kombu, Smoked Guanciale and Spring Onion Soubise
at Root 246 80 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2018
New roots. Spring brings them every year, along with
some delicacies that can only be enjoyed during these warming days… like fresh fava beans. Spring is the time these legumes behave, and taste, more like fresh new peas than later in the year after they mature, when they firmly join the bean clan (mostly dried or canned). New roots are also springing up for Chef Crystal LeLongpre (known as Chef Pink for her hair color preference) as she takes over the reins at the Corque Hotel’s Root 246 in Solvang. After stints at top kitchens of Los Angeles, the Food Network and running her own restaurant, she knew she could only go where her food philosophy would be shared: hyper-local ingredients, responsible sourcing via close relationships with farmers, stewards of the land. Now, Chef Pink is rejuvenating the kitchen at Root 246, with 95% of its produce coming from local farms, as she moves the restaurant firmly towards its own rebirth. The dinner and bar menus have already been refreshed. In coming months, look for more casual, family-friendly dining, with a love for locals and a redesign focused on comfort. To make this spring comfort dish featuring Maltagliati or “poorly cut” pieces of pasta, you can tear lasagna noodles roughly into irregular pieces. Sauté thinly sliced and diced guanciale or bacon over medium-high heat until it is crispy. Remove the bacon, then add spring onions to the bacon fat and cook over low heat until translucent. Add chicken stock and simmer, then add a handful of fresh fava beans to the pan, season with salt and turn down the heat. Add cooked pasta along with butter and a healthy squeeze of lemon. After simmering for 2–3 minutes, sprinkle with bacon and grate cured egg yolk over the top. Chef Pink also adds locally foraged kombu—the “king of seaweed” used to make dashi—which adds umami richness to the dish. Liz Dodder is a drinker, eater and traveler who has eaten five kinds of foie gras in one day. She’s also a blogger, writer, photographer, recipe developer, web designer, social media maven and Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW). CaliCoastWineCountry.com
WHAT MATTERS IS ON THE INSIDE S ince the 1970’s
Richard Sanford
has pioneered the cultivation of Pinot Noir in Santa Barbara County through sustainability and organic farming.
Visit us today to experience the expression of our passion for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown locally in the Sta. Rita Hills, over 45 years in the making.
winery and vineyards
Open 7 Days a week
181 Industrial Way Suite C - Buellton, CA - 805.691.9395
Text the word “VISIT” to 805.944.1398
www.almarosawinery.com