Edible Santa Barbara Fall 2012 by Edible Santa Barbara

edible

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

T H E

Sauvignon Blanc Coffee: Grown in Goleta Eating Acorns

SATURDAYS

Downtown Santa Barbara

Corner of Santa Barbara & Cota Street

8:30am – 1:00pm

SUNDAYS

Camino Real Marketplace

In Goleta at Storke & Hollister

10:00am – 2:00pm

TUESDAYS

Old Town Santa Barbara

500 & 600 Blocks of State Street

4:00pm – 7:30pm 3:00pm – 6:30pm (Beginning Nov 4)

WEDNESDAYS

Solvang Village

Copenhagen Drive & 1st Street

2:30pm – 6:30pm

2:30pm – 6:00pm (Beginning Nov 4)

THURSDAYS

Camino Real Marketplace In Goleta at Storke & Hollister 3:00pm – 6:00pm Carpinteria

800 Block of Linden Avenue 3:00pm – 6:30pm

FRIDAYS Montecito

100 & 1200 Block of Coast Village Road 8:00am – 11:15am

facebook.com/SBFarmersMarket

“The Original Essential Oil Towelette”

Pure Fresh Fabulous

Locally Owned and Operated Since 1997

All natural towelette in lavender, lemon, orange, peppermint, eucalyptus. Cleanse hands and kill germs. Toss them in your purse, backpack, briefcase, car, wallet, or gym bag to enjoy their germkilling, mood-lifting, fabulousness everywhere you go!

Order Online at: www.herbanessentials.com

Find us at: Avia Spa • Drishti • Montecito Yoga • Prana • Sage Center for Health

• San Ysidro Pharmacy • Skin Dance • Skin Deep • Santa Barbara Yoga Center

• Whole Foods Santa Barbara

Lavender oil is renowned for its calming and healing properties.

Some of the many uses for our lavender towelettes: inhale aroma to calm and relax; smooth over burns or scrapes to disinfect, ease pain, promote quick healing, and prevent scarring; massage temples and back of neck to relieve headaches and/or stress; inhale aroma and tuck in pillow case to aid in a goodnight’s sleep; rub on skin to repel bugs and relieve itching due to bug bites.

From the grill, from the sea, from the garden join us for Northern and Southern regional Italian cuisine using local ingredients in our family’s trattoria.

Champagne Brunch with a View

Sundays, 10:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., $70 for adults, $35 for children ages 12 & under

Join us for our new Champagne brunch featuring all things local. Executive Chef David Reardon’s regional menu highlights locally-caught seafood, sushi, a fresh-from-the-farm salad station, traditional breakfast favorites, delectable desserts and more – all served in a spectacular indoor and outdoor setting overlooking the best views in Santa Barbara. For reservations, call 805.571.3018 | www.BacaraResort.com

SANTABARBA RA edible ® fall

Pinot Noir - Chardonnay - Pinot Gris - Pinot Blanc - Vin Gris

Richard Sanford tasting through Chardonnay lots, 1983.

photo Tom Allen

FOOD FOR THOUGHT D

Eating local is always a theme of ours, but in this issue we find ourselves eating even closer to home. I remember one fall when I was 5 and my cousins had a walnut tree in front of their house. I loved picking the walnuts and making a big mess taking off the outer husk and smashing the shells to pick out the bits of nuts. I also remember going to visit my grandfather’s ranch and collecting acorns from the many huge oak trees. Some years the ground was covered with acorns. I loved the smooth shapes and the way you could run your hands through the pile of them after they were collected. I always wanted to learn how to process them and make acorn flour, but instead they just accumulated in baskets.

These are just a couple of my fall childhood memories that I get to revisit in this issue with our articles on walnuts and on acorns. The idea of eating local, I realize, might have been planted in my mind quite early on, with my love of picking, collecting and foraging.

Perhaps that is why the Eat Local Challenge, which we are having again this year, holds such appeal for me. I love the idea of having to seek out new foods that grow or are produced in our area. The premise is simple: Just take a personal pledge to eat nothing but locally produced food during the 31 days of October. If you have never taken an Eat Local Challenge, I encourage you to try it this year. And if you have been following along with us for the last three years, please join us again this year. We have a lot of interesting events planned to go along with the Challenge, in conjunction with our partners, the Community Environmental Council and the Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market.

This year I am particularly excited to follow along Charity Dubberly’s experience of eating from her yard for one week as part of the Eat Local Challenge. In addition to the eggs her backyard chickens will provide, she has a garden full of amazing produce. She also plans to do a little neighborhood foraging. You’ll read more about her plan in this issue and on our blog, too.

As a child I loved the idea of eating foods found in my backyard or in the wild. Growing up in a suburban beach community may not have given me much opportunity for it, but the idea has stuck with me. These days, there is a huge oak tree outside my front door. I have been known to collect the acorns, and I still find them around my house stashed in baskets. Perhaps it is my inner squirrel preparing for the Eat Local Challenge.

Krista Harris, Editor

Stay Connected

Read more and subscribe to our email newsletter at EdibleSantaBarbara.com We love to hear from our readers. Please email us at info@ediblesantabarbara.com Follow us on Facebook and Pinterest at Edible Santa Barbara and Twitter at EdibleSB.

PUBLISHERS

Steven Brown & Krista Harris

EDITOR

Krista Harris

RECIPE EDITOR

Nancy Oster

COPY EDITOR

Doug Adrianson

DESIGNER

Steven Brown

PROMOTIONS

Kellyn Baez

WEB DESIGN

Mary Ogle

Contributors

Pascale Beale

Joan S. Bolton

Nell Campbell

Dina Clapinski

Fran Collin

Janice Cook Knight

Shannon Essa

Brian Fagan

Erin Feinblatt

Jill Johnson

Jennifer LeMay

Jeanine Brandi McLychok

Nancy Oster

Carole Topalian

Louis Villard

Advertising Inquiries ads@ediblesantabarbara.com

Edible Santa Barbara® is published quarterly and distributed throughout Santa Barbara County. Subscription rate is $28 annually. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Publisher expressly disclaims all liability for any occurrence which may arise as a consequence of the use of any information or recipes. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you. © 2012 edible Santa Barbara

www.fsc.org

MIX Paper from responsible sources FSC

Edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year

Notables edible

One of the best ways to eat local is to grow your own. But what if all you have is a deck, patio or rooftop? A Tower Garden just might be the perfect solution. It uses a proprietary aeroponic system that allows the plants to grow without the use of soil. Taking up less than three square feet of space, each vertical unit is five feet tall and can grow 20 plants. It uses less than 10% of the water and land that a traditional, soil-based garden would use. You can grow any type of plants except root vegetables, grapevines, bushes or trees. And the unit is made from foodsafe UV-stabilized plastic. They look beautifully sculptural by themselves or in groups. Complete kits are $499, and there are extension units and other accessories.

The Tower Garden is available locally through Joy Kelly and Sandy Campbell of Chapala Gardens; 866 235-0414; ChapalaGardens.com

Succulent Artisan Products

A Locavore Pantry

There is no better way to build your locavore pantry than to stop by Succulent Café & Trading Company in Solvang. All housemade and sourced from local farmers markets, these delectable treats will enhance your meals throughout the Eat Local Challenge and, of course, beyond. The Squash Butter tastes very much like a delicious pumpkin pie filling; the Cherry Lavender Preserves bring back the aroma and taste of summer no matter what time of year it is and the Margerum Sauvignon Blanc Jelly is in a league of its own—this is not the grape jelly of your childhood, it is ambrosia. Oh, and did we mention that they have fantastic Dill Pickles and lots of other pickled vegetables?

Succulent Café & Trading Company is located at 1555 Mission Dr., Solvang; 805 691-9235; SucculentCafe.com

Olive Hill Farm and Creekside

Apple Ranch

Local Vinegars

Locavores searching for vinegar are in luck. You can find a tasty apple cider vinegar from Creekside Apple Ranch, home of Solvang Pie Company and a regular fixture at many area farmers markets. Or try one of the delicious wine vinegars made by Olive Hill Farm. Currently they are producing a Rosé and a Pinot Noir vinegar and the vinegars can be sampled at their tasting room.

Visit solvangpieco.com or olivehillfarm.com for more information.

Pop Culture

Local Organic Artisan Sodas

Drinking local isn’t just about drinking wine. Now we have Pop Culture, a farm-to-bottle soda that owners and Santa Ynez Valley residents Andrew and Elske Daigle have brought to our area. We’d love to see it offered in tasting rooms as an option for designated drivers and those under 21. This is no ordinary-tasting soda. The Blackberry Hibiscus is flavorful and complex—a delicious alternative to wine. And we have developed a serious addiction to the Ginger Pear. It is full of ginger flavor and has lots of possibilities for cocktail mixing or a ginger float. You can feel good about drinking this soda or giving it to your children, since it’s made with locally sourced, organic fruit.

Pop Culture is available at Bell Street Farm, Succulent Café and New Frontiers Market, and they hope to be expanding into more markets soon; PopCultureBeverage.com

House-Made Pancetta

From C’est

Cheese

Eating local is all about sourcing great ingredients, and we couldn’t be happier to discover a delicious house-made pancetta in the case at C’est Cheese. Pancetta is Italian bacon made from pork belly. They start by massaging the meat with spices and chilling in the refrigerator for seven to 10 days so that the salts and sugars can draw the moisture out of the raw meat. Then it is rinsed off, dried, trussed in twine and hung in cold storage for about two weeks to enhance the texture and intensify the flavor. The most important step, according to C’est Cheese, is that they are made with a lot of love. We love how you can use it in Pasta Carbonara and many other Italian recipes, or substitute it in any recipe that calls for bacon.

C’est Cheese is located at 825 Santa Barbara St., Santa Barbara; 805 965-0318; CestCheese.com

vertical TASTING

Drake Family Farms Goat Cheese

Their delicious farmstead, artisan chèvre goat cheese is made from the milk of happy, healthy goats (every one of them has a name) overseen by owner and veterinarian Dan Drake. And they are within less than 150 miles of us, which is particularly good news for those us participating in the Eat Local Challenge this October. We picked four varieties of their delicious fresh chèvre, but they have many more.

Regular Chèvre

This is the classic fresh, creamy and crumbly goat cheese that you can use in so many ways. It has a nice tanginess to it. Like all of them it comes in a lidded storage tub so that you can use a little at a time, if you can possibly ration yourself. Use in any recipe that calls for fresh goat cheese. Try crumbling over a finished dish as a garnish or serve with crackers or bread. It is endlessly versatile.

French Herbs

A blend of herbs that is not too delicate and not too strong—it is the perfect savory complement. It’s almost as easy to use in recipes as the regular chèvre and the extra bit of flavor makes it stand up beautifully on its own. Try pairing it with a little Succulent Margerum Sauvignon Blanc jam and sharing with your very best friends.

Jalapeño

If you need a little heat, this one will do it for you. The blend of jalapeño and red pepper flakes gives it flavor as well as kick. It would be delicious crumbled into some fish tacos. Or put this out with crackers and a little honey to drizzle over as needed, and you will make everyone very happy.

Cranberry Walnut

Overheard at the farmers market: “What are you going to put that on?” Answer: “Anything I can get my hands on.” Somehow it pairs as well with sweet as it does with savory. Try it with scones or on sandwiches. This Thanksgiving we plan to spread it on celery and set it out with hors d’oeuvres before the big meal. But it could equally be at home on a dessert cheese board.

You can find Drake Family Farms cheeses at the Saturday and Tuesday Santa Barbara Farmers Market and the Thursday Carpinteria market, as well as at Plow to Porch. You can also order a number of the varieties at DrakeFamilyFarms.com. And while you’re there, be sure to take a look at the pictures of their goats.

in Season

Apples

Artichokes

Arugula

Asparagus

Avocados

Basil

Bay leaf

Beans

Beets

Blackberries

Blueberries

Bok choy

Broccoli

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Cantaloupe

Carrots

Cauliflower

Celery

Chard

Cherimoya

Chiles

Chives

Cilantro

Collards

Corn

Cucumber

Dandelion

Dill

Eggplant

Fennel

Figs

Grapefruit

Grapes

Honey

Kale

Kiwi

Lavender

Leeks

Lemons

Lettuce

Limes

Melons

Mint

Mustard greens

Nectarines

Onions, green bunching

Oranges, Valencia

Oregano

Parsley

Peaches

Peppers

Plums

Radishes

Raspberries

Rosemary

Sage

Spinach

Sprouts and legumes

Squash, summer

Strawberries

Tangerines/Mandarins

Thyme

Tomatillo

Tomatoes

Turnips

Watermelon

Available Year-Round

Almonds (harvested Aug /Sept)

Dates (harvested Sept/Oct)

Garlic (harvested May/June)

Onions, bulb (harvested May/June)

Pistachios (harvested Sept/Oct)

Potatoes (harvested May/June)

Raisins (harvested Sept/Oct)

Squash, winter (harvested July/Oct)

Walnuts (harvested Sept/Oct)

Yams (harvested Aug/Sept)

Fresh Flowers

Potted Plants/Herbs

Regional Dairy (raw milk, artisanal goat- and cow-milk cheeses, butters, curds, yogurts and spreads)

Local Honey

Locally Produced Breads, Pies and Preserves (bread produced from wheat grown locally; pies and preserves)

Local Meat

(antibiotic-free chicken, rabbit, goat, grass-fed/hormone-free beef and pork)

Local Seafood

Many types of local seafood are available year-round, but here is a list of some that will be in season this fall: anchovy, black cod, California spiny lobster, rock crab, rockfish, sardine, squid, swordfish, white seabass, urchin

Our story:

Since 1980, Ebby’s Organic Farm has been a successful family-run business. Organic from the beginning, we were one of the pioneers at the farmers market in Santa Barbara during the 80s. While much of our produce is shipped to Los Angeles and San Francisco, Ebby’s focus is to keep things local, by networking with restaurants, grocers, and organizations committed to sustainable agriculture. Locally, you can buy our produce at Isla Vista Food Co-Op, Mesa Produce and Santa Barbara Farmers Market.

Our mission is to make organics affordable to everyone, regardless of income. By keeping prices reasonable, we have built a strong customer base, remaining competitive in an increasingly tough market.

We know produce can be expensive but it’s so important to eat healthy. Our main purpose is to change eating habits and help people to learn to spend their money intelligently on good food.

We hope to build community through food, as seen by our involvement in last year’s SOL Food Festival. In addition, we would like to see a greater push towards local at the farmers market.

For Ebby’s Farm

, it’s about the personal connections we have made over the last 30-plus years. With our commitment to organics, our produce is always at the peak of freshness, choosing quality over quantity. Eager to educate and inform shoppers, just ask us for recipe suggestions. We can guarantee it will be flavorful.

Summer brings our famous heirloom tomatoes and mixed cherry tomatoes. They are our best selling items and we offer so many flavors. They are great in all kinds of dishes and we know that because our customers have been asking for weeks. It’s what we’ve built our reputation on. – Mike & Lorena

Come by and say hello to us at the Farmers Market: Thursday and Sunday in Goleta, Friday in Montecito

seasonal

Recipes

Tomato and Bread Soup

Makes 4 servings

This is inspired by the Italian soup Pappa al Pomodoro. It can be made with your late-season tomatoes and day-old bread. Feel free to substitute leeks or shallots for the onions or a parsnip for the carrot or fennel for the celery.

1 onion, diced

1 carrot, diced

1 stalk celery, diced

2 pounds tomatoes, coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 clove garlic, minced

A couple sage leaves, thinly sliced

1 ⁄ 2 loaf of day-old bread, ciabatta or crusty bread, cut into cubes

3–3 1 ⁄ 2 cups vegetable stock, chicken stock or water

A small bunch (about 1 ⁄ 2 cup) fresh basil, thinly sliced

Optional: Grated hard cheese

Put a large, heavy Dutch oven or braising pan in the oven and preheat oven to 450°.

Toss the onion, carrot, celery and tomatoes in a large bowl with the olive oil, salt and pepper. Make sure all the pieces are coated with the olive oil and the seasonings are evenly distributed.

When the oven is up to temperature, carefully add the vegetables into the hot pan. Roast for about 15 minutes and then stir the mixture and continue roasting another 10–20 minutes or until the vegetables are soft.

Remove from the oven and place on the stovetop over medium heat. Add 3 cups of stock, the garlic, sage and the bread. Stir to combine and simmer for about 10 minutes. Taste and add additional salt and pepper as well as stock, if needed.

Add the fresh basil, taste, and adjust the seasonings. Simmer the soup for another minute or so and then serve. Garnish with an extra grind of pepper and, optionally, with a little grated hard cheese.

Walnut Caramel Cake

This simple cake is elevated by a delicious caramel sauce. You can make the sauce ahead of time and keep in a jar in the refrigerator for several days, then reheat before pouring over the cake when it comes out of the oven.

Makes 8 servings

1 ⁄4 cup unsalted butter ( 1 ⁄ 2 stick)

1 cup unbleached all-purpose organic flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 ⁄ 2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 ⁄ 2 teaspoon ground allspice

1 ⁄ 2 teaspoon granulated sea salt

1 ⁄ 2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt

2 eggs, lightly beaten

1 ⁄ 2 cup unbleached organic granulated sugar

1 ⁄ 2 cup local honey

1 ⁄4 cup walnut oil

1 ⁄ 2 cup boiling water

1 ⁄4 cup toasted walnuts, chopped

SALTED CARAMEL SAUCE

1 cup granulated white sugar

3 tablespoons butter

1 ⁄ 2 cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon flaky sea salt

A few extra walnuts for garnish, optional

Walnut Caramel Cake continued

Preheat oven to 350°. Butter and flour a 9-inch-round cake pan. Melt the butter over low heat in a thick-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Whisk the butter as it melts and remove from heat once it turns light brown and has a nutty aroma. Remove from heat and set aside.

Whisk the flour, baking soda, spices and salts together. Add the eggs one at a time, followed by the sugar and honey, and mix until incorporated. Pour the oil, water and reserved brown butter over the mixture. Stir to combine and then fold in the chopped walnuts.

Pour into the prepared pan and bake for 35–40 minutes or until the top springs back when touched or a tester comes out clean.

Meanwhile, put the sugar in a medium, heavy saucepan and heat over medium-high heat, swirling the pan occasionally as the sugar melts. After it is melted, continue cooking until it reaches a rich amber color or until it reaches 350° on a candy thermometer. Remove from heat and add the butter and cream all at once but carefully—it will bubble up vigorously. Whisk in the sea salt until combined and let cool slightly.

Pour some of the sauce over the cake and garnish with walnuts. Serve with additional caramel sauce as needed.

Nancy Nufer is a Santa Barbara native and an actor who has appeared in many local theater productions including over 30 roles at the Ensemble Theatre alone. Nancy is also a playwright; her comedy Food Confessions will run at the Lobero Theatre September 21–23. She has served as marketing director for both the Ensemble and Rubicon Theatres, general manager of Center Stage Theater, and is a founding member of Good Company of Santa Barbara. And, most importantly, she is also a foodie.

Where are you from?

What foods do you miss from where you grew up?

I’m a Santa Barbara native. (Yes, this is what we look like: blonde, a little geeky and freakishly tall.) So the only foods I miss are from restaurants that have closed their doors.

The Rice Bowl on State Street was a family favorite growing up, and where I developed a very serious fixation on fried rice. Plus having a bowling alley next door made it feel like childhood nirvana.

Later I moved my obsession to Jimmy’s Oriental Gardens, which not only offered unique, delicious dishes, they also had those fantastic red leather booths. I’ll miss Jimmy’s forever.

What makes Santa Barbara so special to you? I currently split my time between here and Rhode Island (with my husband, Tom). The moment I see our beautiful mountains in Santa Barbara I feel a renewed sense of gratitude. I’ve lived in San Francisco, New York and Los Angeles during different chapters, but none of them could match the sights, sounds and flavors of “home.”

I’d love to say wheat germ, bulgur

of nuts, dark chocolate and dried

And I keep all my condiments lined up alphabetically. I alphabetdialogue about macaroni and cheese. What is YOUR perfect because who has very strong opinions on how mac She doesn’t believe in adulterating

Done well, this dish can make your heart sing.

But if you add to it, You’re likely to rue it, For I’ll put your arm in a sling.

Name a couple of your favorite food scenes from the movies or the theater.

Well, of course the lascivious scene in Tom Jones where Albert Finney and Joyce Redman allow their feeding frenzy to stoke their sensual desires. I first watched that scene with my mother, who then tried to explain what was going on. Tricky, seeing as I was only 8 years old.

ERIN

FEINBLATT

Nancy Nufer

And I adore the entire film Big Night because the attention to detail is so consummate. Detail is so very important… have I mentioned that I alphabetize my spices?

What are some of your favorite things to eat in Santa Barbara County?

I can’t discuss this without bringing up our wonderful restaurant sponsors for Food Confessions

Opening night is Aldo’s, which has the very best Caesar salad in Santa B. One of my most discerning pals even says so and, believe me… from her, that’s high praise. Plus their lasagna with herbed ricotta will blow your mind.

The first matinee is Fresco Café 5 Points and they do seared ahi beautifully! Either in a salad or a seared ahi sandwich—and both of them make my mouth water. But if you’re in the mood for a slice of heaven—try their coconut cake. Crazy good.

Another evening we have Olio E Limone and their pizzeria is more than just delectable food—it’s as if you’ve stepped onto Italian soil for the evening. And Chef Alberto often comes round to the table with a little “treat” he’s made especially for that meal. Amazing!

And for the final matinee we have the Sojourner Café, which I love for several reasons: First, I’ve been a patron for so long it takes me back in time to walk through those doors. The food is tasty and healthy, the desserts are outrageous and

decadent, and the Mocha Frosted? Well, if you need a new addiction, try one. You’ll never get over it.

Friends are visiting from out of town. What two or three places would you want to visit with them?

I always take guests to the Saturday farmers market… because I’m a show-off. And if you want to brag about the bounty that is Santa Barbara, that one stop will do it.

Spending so much of the year on the East Coast means I’ve learned to accept mealy apples and unripe pears as produce. But when I get back here, look out! I’m likely to lug home enough booty to feed a small, hungry kingdom.

What is it that you like about Edible Santa Barbara magazine? Can you name a favorite article?

Until today I liked the whole magazine, seeing as I’m hooked on both food and Santa Barbara. I leaf through the pages thinking: “I need to try that place,” or “Hmmmm… wonder if I can make that?” So it’s ideal resource material.

But I must confess, now I like the Edible Eater column. Because this month’s personality makes so much sense, doesn’t she? Especially when it comes to alphabetizing spices.

Shannon Essa is the author of restaurant guidebook Chow Venice! and splits her time between Santa Barbara and Europe, writing and leading wine-, beer- and food-based tours in Spain and Italy for Grapehops Tours.

EAT LOCAL CHALLENGE

Eat From Your Yard

by Jennifer LeMay

When Charity Dubberley and her husband, Matt, decided to eat exclusively from their garden for one week as part of the Eat Local Challenge, they knew some planning was in order. An attempt made last year on a whim was not successful, so this time they got a head start by planting a wide variety of edibles and increasing their flock of chickens to 10. “We are taking on the ultimate gardening challenge: sustaining ourselves with what we grow,” says Charity. Part of her inspiration came from reading Novella Carpenter’s book Farm City, a memoir full of stories about Carpenter’s urban farm in Oakland, California.

Mark Fennell, a friend of the Dubberleys who participated in the Eat Local Challenge last year, proposed that they all take on this Eat “Very” Local Challenge for a week to demonstrate how feasible it is to survive—and thrive—on abundant and diverse food production from small spaces like backyard gardens.

They saw additional benefits as well, including an increased connection to their food sources and a fun challenge that would involve growing, harvesting, foraging and cooking creatively. A key element of the challenge is preparing a wide variety of interesting and tasty meals. By documenting their experiences, the participants hope to inspire others.

“One of the reasons for doing this is to step up my game,” says Katie Haldeman, another friend of the Dubberleys who decided to join them by eating exclusively from her own garden during the designated week. She expects to be a better gardener and cook after taking the challenge. All are gaining a better understanding of the challenges of sustainable food production, which have included scrub jays harvesting newly planted beet seeds, the scourge of aphids, and diseased tomato plants. They have embraced the learn-as-you-go approach and accept that there will be some losses along the way.

Their ground rules for the week allow for foraging in public areas, trading among participants and with other local gardeners and noncommercial food producers, and eating previously harvested food (frozen, dehydrated, pickled or fermented). They will also start the week with an allotment of salt, pepper, olive oil and vinegar.

The Dubberleys’ garden on the Mesa boasts an impressive array of edibles, including several kinds of squash and tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants (the Rosa Bianca variety has done exceptionally well throughout the year), herbs, corn (a special semi-dwarf variety called Golden Bantam that grows better in their microclimate), barley, millet, buckwheat and amaranth.

Since they only have a few fruit trees and love to make smoothies, Matt and Charity plan to trade with other gardeners for avocados, frozen blueberries and other essentials. They are planning a number of recipes that call for eggs from their chickens, including vegetable frittatas. Some other mouthwatering dishes on their menu include squash ribbon salad, chili, spaghetti squash with roasted tomato vegetable sauce and Japanese “pizza” featuring cabbage, egg, buckwheat flour and onion. While it will surely be a challenge to rely on über-local food for a week, it also sounds like delicious fun.

Jennifer LeMay is a designer and artist who appreciates great local food. Her business, J. LeMay Studios, provides communication and design services. Visit JLeMay.com.

Follow Charity Dubberley’s journey eating very local as you read her guest blog entries on the EdibleSantaBarbara.com website beginning on October 1.

Charity and Matt Dubberley.

EDIBLESANTA BARBARA

OCTOBER IS Eat Local Month

Edible Santa Barbara is partnering with the Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market and the Community Environmental Council to sponsor an Eat Local Challenge for the month of October. The Challenge encourages people to take a pledge to eat and drink local products October 1–31.

How to Participate in the Eat Local Challenge

• Eat only foods produced within a 100- or 150-mile radius of your home, or within the tri-county region, or within California.

• Decide if you are going to make any exceptions (such as for coffee, tea or spices), but try to stay as local as possible.

• Join the Google Group “SB Eat Local Challenge“

• Join the Facebook Group titled “Eat Local Challenge” and RSVP at the Facebook event titled “Eat Local Challenge October 2012.”

• Follow the blogs at EdibleSantaBarbara.com and CECSB.org

Let Us Know How It’s Going

• Post your progress on Facebook or Twitter on the Edible Santa Barbara, CEC or Farmers Market pages.

• If you are blogging or would like to share your experiences, email us at info@ediblesantabarbara.com

Step Up to Cool-Season Vegetables

by Joan S. Bolton

Warm-season crops are generally big, robust growers that bear fruit in some form or another. These are our sun-kissed tomatoes, elegant squash and zucchini, crunchy bush beans, succulent corn and sweet and fiery peppers. To mature properly, these warm-weather types need at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day, plus plenty of heat. Each has a predictable time line, generally marked on the seed packet or plant tag, with days from planting to harvest ranging from 45 days to 120 days, depending on the variety.

Cool-season crops tend to be more diminutive in stature and yield edible roots (beets and carrots), leaves and stalks (salad greens and Swiss chard) or flower buds (broccoli and cauliflower). There’s nary a fruit in sight.

Cool-season vegetables require far less sunshine. Four to six hours of direct light is sufficient on the days when the sun does shine. If clouds or rain move in, the plants may slow down or take a break. But they suffer no harm. When brighter skies appear, they simply resume growing. As a result, during wetter years—or those gifted with a string of warm, sunny days—it can be difficult to predict when exactly a particular edible will be ready to harvest.

Getting Started

One of the keys to successful warm-season vegetables is providing enough water early on, to keep the young plants and their emerging roots well hydrated.

Count the steps between your kitchen door and your vegetable garden.

That’s as far as you need to go to meet the Local Challenge for at least a portion of what you eat.

And just because we’re heading into winter is no reason to stop growing. With a shift in focus, there are any number of edibles that you can tend and enjoy during cooler weather.

Living on the Central Coast has many virtues, not the least of which is that our mild Mediterranean climate means we can grow garden crops year-round. But instead of four seasons per year, our edibles essentially have two: the warm season and the cool season.

Cool-season crops can face quite the opposite problem. In a rainy year, and depending on your soil type, they may have trouble drying out. Excellent drainage is critical. While your cool-season edibles won’t mind any and all moisture that nature provides, they absolutely detest sitting in cold, boggy soil for days on end.

If you have heavy clay, dig down at least a foot and amend the excavated soil with a generous blend of coarse and finetextured compost to force rough, jagged pathways between the small, slick clay particles. Then shape the amended soil into mounds at least six inches high and 12 to 18 inches wide.

If you have coarse, sandy soil, amend with finer-textured compost. In coarse soils, compost replenishes nutrients and acts

Growing crops year-round.

CAROLE TOPALIAN

like a sponge, preventing the nutrients and water from washing away too quickly.

Growing cool-season edibles in a raised bed provides an opportunity to adjust both your soil composition and drainage. But even if your raised bed soil is tip-top at the moment, be sure to mix in at least an inch or two of compost each time you plant. If you garden in that magical mix of rich, loamy soil that already drains well, still consider applying a soil conditioner that contains humic acid or mycorrhizae to boost beneficial microorganisms in the soil. We add new material every time we plant a new crop, and after 20 years the soil in our raised beds is dark, rich and smells wonderful. Even better, it reliably produces healthy bumper crops.

Also consider growing your cool-season crops in containers, if what you’re growing doesn’t have a big footprint, such as a mixture of leafy greens or several rounds of carrots. Provided they’ll get enough sunshine, you can put the containers close to your front or back door. That way you won’t leave a trail of muddy footsteps each time you traipse to your garden and back.

What to Plant Now

Cool-season root crops include beets, carrots, green onions, kohlrabi, leeks, radishes and turnips. Sow these directly in the garden, as the roots are difficult to transplant. Be sure to net the bed. Foraging birds can pluck the seedlings so rapidly that you might not realize that your seeds ever sprouted.

Leaf and stalk crops include bok choy, cabbage, celery, kale, lettuce, radicchio, salad greens, spinach and Swiss chard. While you can grow any of these from seed, I like to purchase nursery seedlings for their variety. For instance, rather than buying a single seed packet and growing 20 Red Sails lettuce plants, I'd rather spend a little more for an assortment of butter, romaine and loose-leaf lettuces. They’re prettier in the garden and on the plate. And I don’t have to contend with birds gobbling up my tiny little sprouts.

Edible flower buds include artichokes, broccoli and cauliflower. These are the behemoths of the cool-season world, inhabiting far more space in the garden. A single artichoke plant, with its silvery, serrated leaves, can easily grow five feet tall and wide, while broccoli and cauliflower plants grow about two feet tall and wide. With their deep, spreading roots, all three are at their best in fertile, well-drained beds.

Joan S. Bolton is a freelance writer, garden coach and garden designer who confesses to a lifelong love affair with plants. She and her husband, Tom, have filled their four-acre property in western Goleta with natives and other colorful, water-conserving plants. They also maintain avocado, citrus and fruit trees and grow vegetables and herbs year-round. SantaBarbaraGardens.com.

Mesa Harmony Garden Garden of Eatin’

by Jill Johnson

Mesa Harmony Garden rings true to its name. It’s a thriving garden that nourishes harmony with the environment and the diverse neighbors on the Mesa. It may just be a blip in the rearview mirror for most people on their commutes over Carrillo Hill, but the oncebarren land on the corner of Meigs Road and Dolores Avenue contains a bit of Santa Barbara’s history with a blueprint for its future—a sustainable future.

The native Chumash understood and respected the relationship between man and earth, as they knew their lives depended upon the care and nurturing of the land. They used the clay soil of the little corner lot area to create adobe bricks to build structures, to build community. The land was used for many things after the Chumash moved on, but it ultimately became vacant for decades—five decades, to be precise—before the idea to use the land to build and benefit community once again was revived.

The community garden idea blossomed and grew to fruition from a project initiated by Jan Cross, Davis Stella and Chelsea Reinhart, students enrolled in Dr. Adam Green’s Projects in Sustainability course at Santa Barbara City College. The class requires students to work in groups to develop sustainable projects for both the college and the local community. The garden project required working collaboratively with Mesa business and community members and local service groups to create a garden that would ultimately benefit the entire

community by giving purpose to underutilized land while producing and providing food for the Foodbank of Santa Barbara. The idea was brought to Holy Cross Church, owners of the land, who believed in the mission of feeding both body and soul through community involvement. A long-term lease was worked out with the archdiocese.

To create a productive garden that was respectful of the local climate and its quirks and limitations, local Permaculturist and local food production advocate Larry Saltzman was brought in to draw up plans for an “edible food forest.” Forest gardens are one of the oldest forms of land use and have shown to be resilient and sustainable. By applying the principles of ecology and consciously planting food-producing plants and trees alongside flowering plants and ground cover, healthy natural ecosystems are mimicked.

As the forest matures, it will contain seven layers of food production. The canopy consists of large fruit and nut trees, followed by the low tree layer of dwarf fruit trees and the shrub layer of berries and currants. The herbaceous layer is comprised of herbs, beets and comfreys, and the rhizosphere layer is made up of root vegetables. The soil surface layer consists of groundcover plants such as strawberries, and the final layer, the vertical, are the climbers and vines.

The “green trinity” of Mesa Harmony Garden, Josh Kane (president), Hugh Kelly (vice president) and Deacon Randy Saake (secretary/treasurer) have been tasked with growing and

Above from left: Larry Saltzman, Hugh Kelly, Deacon Randy Saake and Jim Sturnot.

maintaining the little corner plot and can often be seen proudly mulching, pruning, shoveling or fixing the owl box for the resident “pest control” agent or leading tours of the property for inquisitive school kids or curious reporters.

They are proud of their progress, for not only has the garden expanded from the original 80 fruit trees, generously donated by LRQA Americas Sustainability, to over 120 trees, but the gardens are becoming an effective “educational hub” where home gardeners can get their questions answered and kids can make friends and have their picture taken with the “not so scary,” in fact slightly jovial, scarecrow. Classes such as gopher getting, Permaculture procedures, mulching and rainwater harnessing have been held, with many more scheduled in the future.

Work parties, generally on Fridays or Saturdays, are held for volunteers to come help with the many tasks involved in the operation of the garden. Chances are offered for all in the community to come learn, work and take ownership of the garden.

This October, Mesa Harmony will be celebrating two years of operation and striving to honor its mission statement of “helping to feed those in need… one fruit or vegetable at a time.” It has engaged other SBCC students, community and volunteers while providing the local Foodbank with apples, peaches, avocados, vegetables and much more. Speaking of donations, Mesa Harmony is now officially a 501(c)3 nonprofit association, making it easier for the public to donate.

Sustainability is fast becoming a key philosophy for many on the SBCC campus and throughout Santa Barbara County,

but it was practiced and taught by the Chumash so many years ago. Three tenets of the Chumash community beliefs were prescient: 1) individuals recognizing and accepting one’s limitations; 2) moderation in taking what is needed from the land and ocean, leaving some for future days and future people; and 3) giving without expecting anything in return, recognizing that compensation comes in many forms that are not always tangible. Mesa Harmony Garden plants and sustains the seeds of that local Chumash spiritual knowledge.

Regenerating the sense of community. Regenerating spirit. Regenerating a healthy ecosystem. Creating a delicious future, locally, sustainably. This little acre of Mesa garden is indeed harmonic.

Jill Johnson is an artistic soul with an inquisitive mind and a hearty appetite for life ... and food. You can find her musings on spilled milk and cookie crumblings at her blog, cookiesinheaven.blogspot.com.

Resources

To get involved in the Mesa Harmony Garden or to find out more, visit the following websites: MesaHarmonyGarden.org Groups.google.com/group/MesaHarmonyGarden/subscribe Facebook.com/MesaHarmonyGarden.org Sustainability.sbcc.edu/

Sauvignon Blanc The Bright, White Wine Future of Santa Barbara County

by Louis Villard

When you’re talking about Sauvignon Blanc, there are certain regions that immediately come to mind.

The French region of the Loire could be the first. Sauvignon Blanc is, in fact, a Bordeaux variety, and it flourishes well in Graves.

In the New World, there is Marlborough, located on the northern tip of the southern island of New Zealand. About 30 years ago, the only grape you could find in New Zealand was the Germanic, fairly grapey, slightly bland, Muller-Thurgau … that and loads of sheep. Sauvignon Blanc, sometimes referred to as the “breakthrough grape,” led to the countrywide mass planting of vineyards. To a lesser extent there are also well made Sauvignon Blancs from Northern Italy, Chile and South Africa.

When you’re talking about Sauvignon Blanc on a global basis, California doesn’t get as much attention. (If it does, it’s along the lines of Robert Mondavi’s ingenious marketing scheme of selling his own Sauvignon Blanc branded as Fumé Blanc.) And in Santa Barbara, although there are some very good producers, the grape hasn’t really defined the region.

That seems to be changing now, especially with the 2009 granting of an American Viticultural Area (AVA) designation to the region of Happy Canyon. The words Sauvignon Blanc and Santa Barbara could soon become synonymous. In fact, Sauvignon Blanc might very well be the next emerging grape out of Santa Barbara County and perhaps garner recognition across the State, and maybe even across the pond.

“That would take it full circle, as most Santa Barbara wine historians will remember that Fred Brander’s Sauvignon Blancs were some of the first celebrated wines from this region,” says Wes Hagen. Hagen, head winemaker at Clos Pepe, was instrumental in the granting of the AVA. The Happy Canyon producers hired him as a consultant to draft their case. “I believe Sauv Blanc will be the rock star of Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara, when history plays out.”

Hagen is not the only one with these thoughts. Kathy Joseph, owner winemaker of Fiddlehead Cellars, says, “I have been purchasing grapes from the Happy Canyon district continuously since 1998. I would have to say I think it is a pretty special place for Sauvignon Blanc.”

The question is, why these accolades? What makes Happy Canyon so special? That can be answered quite easily, with the definitive French word terroir. Cliché as it might sound, the terroir of Happy Canyon is quite unique.

First, there is the temperature in the growing season. During the day it is hot in Happy Canyon, perhaps in the low to mid 90s, and at night it cools down considerably—this is known as diurnal temperature variation. The 30° or more variation between day and night temperatures that sometimes occurs in Happy Canyon is considered quite wide. It is said that this wide variation helps the grape to retain acids during the ripening period, thus allowing for a crisp fruit-flavored wine. The grapes develop phenolic compounds during the day, yet the acidity remains and is preserved at night.

Robbie Meyer, winemaker at Vogelzang Vineyard, says, “I’ve worked with the varietal grown with great care on the Sonoma Coast, Russian River, Knights Valley, Napa … and I believe this is one of the best areas I’ve come across. There is a great diurnal swing during the months of July and August when the Sauv Blanc is really coming into its own.”

Another unique aspect to Happy Canyon is the soil, actually the rocks. Happy Canyon has “a rare combination of chert and serpentine that limits growth and vigor due to an unusual calcium-to-magnesium ratio,” says Hagen. Doug Margerum, of Margerum Wine Company, agrees: “The rocks here are unbelievable. There’s granite, iron, serpentine—it’s all very minerally.”

Serpentinite, a type of rock formed from a family of minerals known as serpentine, happens to be California’s state

Lake Cachuma

Buellton Lompoc

rock. As Brandon Sparks-Gillis, partner at Dragonette Cellars, explains, “Serpentinite is totally amazing. It’s a cool thing, from a geological perspective. It’s formed at tectonic plate boundaries, and it is a sign that at one point in time there was deep ocean subduction and then subsequent compression uplift. It’s found in Santa Barbara County in the high peaks of the Los Padres Mountains. Happy Canyon, being tucked on the eastern side of the valley, sits at the foothills of those mountains. Happy Canyon is the only AVA in the Santa Ynez Valley where I’ve seen it in abundance.”

Besides the climate and soil, one other aspect of our Sauvignon Blanc that will separate it from the rest of the world is the flavor of the wine. Bob Wesley, owner of The Winehound in Santa Barbara, believes very much in this difference. “The Sauvignon Blancs produced there are unlike any others on the planet. To me it approaches a near-tropical, ripe stone fruit character, as far away from grassy and grapefruity as I’ve tasted. I rarely find anything like it from other countries, except perhaps some lusher white Bordeaux blends with Semillon blended in. I guess the cool nights help retain acid balance, otherwise these Happy Canyon Sauvignons would be overbearing and unfocused. They’re anything but, and the complexity factor is remarkable for most of the bottlings I’ve had from the appellation.”

Despite all these stylistic differences in climate, soil and wine there’s one thing that Happy Canyon needs to firmly put itself on the map, and that is age. Bob continues, “I think it will gradually become known outside of this area as one of the finest subsections for Bordeaux-based grapes in the county. That recognition takes a while, though, and it’s still in its infancy.”

Mandy Grassini, director of sales at Grassini Family Vineyards, feels the region’s door of recognition has only just cracked open and that there’s a lot more to come. “We are very excited to see such an incredible upswing for the wines of Happy Canyon. As an AVA we’ve been pushing hard to get exposure, and it seems like it’s taking on its own momentum now.”

Bill Wathen, co-owner and winemaker of Foxen, one of Santa Barbara’s first wineries, is also keeping a keen eye on the region. “As far as Happy Canyon being recognized as a consistent source of good Sauv Blanc fruit, yes, ask any of the players. I think Happy Canyon will be the place in Santa Barbara recognized for its Sauv Blanc.”

Some might say the recognition gears have already started to turn for the Santa Ynez Valley’s most eastern region. In 2011 The Wine Spectator named Margerum’s 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, Sybarite, as one of its top 100 wines of the year, an accolade that does not go unnoticed in the wine world.

It might just be the beginning for the youngest of our local regions, but that could be a good thing. This is especially true for those of us here in Santa Barbara. We can sit back, take note and watch the unveiling of a world-recognized region—because it doesn’t happen often.

Louis Villard has spent the past 15 years working in wine, from making it in the South of France to serving it in London’s Michelin-starred restaurants. Now, he’s trekking his native California and reporting on what’s exciting and new. His blog is SpiltWine.com.

FSeaweed Eating Our Ocean Vegetables

by Nancy Oster

(3 to 4 months old), we wean them onto red algae. Then when they are large enough, they eat the thicker, tougher Macrocystis kelp we harvest from the ocean.”

“Here’s where we grow the red seaweeds,” Doug says as he takes me to another section where the tanks are in the full sun. “We grow dulse in the winter and spring when the water is cooler. When the water heats up, we switch over to ogo.”

Doug reaches into the tank and brings up a handful of fluffy crimson red dulse. He pulls off a piece and hands it to me to taste. It’s salty and crisp. “Imagine this chilled with chopped cucumbers, a shredded radish and a simple dressing of rice vinegar, sesame oil, a little brown sugar and salt to taste.” I can imagine it—the vinaigrette turning a deep red from the pigment in the seaweed.

The texture is flat but fluffy, sort of like Italian parsley. In fact, in Nova Scotia fresh dulse is sold as “sea parsley.” Dulse is reported to have been eaten by St. Columba and the monks of Iona in the sixth century. Called dilisk by the Irish, it was gathered and eaten during the potato famine.

or those of us living along the California coast, local seasonal food is not limited to what grows on the land.

We enjoy an abundance of fish and shellfish food options—meats from the sea. But seaweed? Isn’t that something that is manufactured for wrapping sushi?

Playing with my cousins on the beach as kids, we’d stomp on seaweed bulbs trying to make the loudest pop. Now, as adults, we walk around those tangled piles of seaweed (unless no one is looking). Food for sea urchins, maybe, but not for me!

What I didn’t know is that there are lots of varieties of seaweed in our ocean more palatable than those huge strands of Macrocystis kelp that wash up onto the beach. And even that kelp was once ocean harvested and processed for use as thickeners and emulsifiers in products like ice cream, puddings and salad dressings.

A Taste for Red Seaweed

Doug Bush, general manager at the Cultured Abalone Farm, offered to introduce me to two varieties of fresh edible seaweed: dulse (Palmaria mollis) and ogo (Gracilaria pacifica).

I drove out to the site just north of Goleta where they raise abalone for wholesale distribution. Doug met me in the dirt parking lot and we walked to the long, narrow white tanks where tiny abalones were feasting on crimson-colored dulse. “This is the baby food,” Doug told me. “The abalone start off in the hatchery eating single-celled diatoms, which grow in a film on a plate. When the abalones are about three millimeters

Seaweed is an algae. Nutritionally it contains fiber, protein, calcium and vitamins. With the mineral-rich ocean as a growing medium, it becomes a good dietary source of iron, iodine, potassium, magnesium and vitamin B12.

Warm-Water Seaweed

“Wait until you taste this one,” Doug says. He takes me to another tumble tank where water is being pumped in from 40 feet below the surface of the nearby ocean. Air jets keep the seaweed moving from bottom to surface to absorb energy from the sun. They have recently stocked this tank with about 12 kilos of ogo. In two weeks they will harvest about 35 kilos.

Again we reach into the tank for a sample. Crimson red like dulse, ogo has a more delicate flavor. Its small, branched tubes give it a lovely crunchy texture. We lean over the tank, fishing out bits and discussing ways to use it. Doug suggests adding it to an abalone or albacore poke with soy sauce, ginger, sesame oil, salt and chili. I get a bag of each to take home to experiment.

How to Cook with Seaweed

Seaweeds at local stores are sold dried for use in salads and soups. But what are the characteristics of fresh seaweed? I turned to chef Jeff Olsson of New West Catering in Buellton for a little professional help. Jeff has used dried seaweed since the 1990s when he worked at Café News in New York City.

“We used lots of seaweed,” he says. “We always put seaweed in our salads. It was dried so we’d rehydrate it briefly in a little

ERIN FEINBLATT

Dulse

water first. If we were making green beans with a lamb dish, we’d sauté the green beans with garlic, shallots and ginger and then throw in the seaweed at the end just to heat it through.”

Fresh seaweed doesn’t require the rehydrating step before adding it to a recipe. But it tends to shrivel or break down when cooked—losing that crisp crunchiness. When I put a handful on the barbecue as a moist nest for skewered shrimp, I was surprised to see it turn from deep crimson to bright green. It’s at its finest raw or just lightly cooked.

Jeff says, “I basically use it as a salt element with an underlayer of umami flavor.” He often pairs it with mushrooms—in a gingery shitake mushroom soup, perhaps? Recently Jeff made fresh dulse crisps in a dehydrator to use as a flavorful garnish for a savory appetizer. He says, “I do a lot of greens, Swiss chard and kale. I can totally see just mixing the ogo in as an addition to my greens.”

Storage is easy: Don’t rinse it until you use it. It stores best with a coating of seawater, in a plastic bag or sealed container. Mine was still crisp a week later.

Fresh dulse and ogo are available seasonally at the Santa Barbara Fish Market and the Isla Vista Food Co-op. Call ahead to check the supply or to order more. You can also find dried seaweeds at many of our local markets.

Nancy Oster will not be found eating seaweed off the rocks at low tide, at least not until she takes a class in wild seaweed foraging. In the meantime she’s happy to find a source of locally grown seaweed. If you anticipate inviting her to a potluck, you might want to ask her what she will be putting in that salad—Daylily buds, ogo, dulse, urchin, local ocean salt—you just never know.

Green Beans with Dulse, Ginger and Pine Nuts

Courtesy of Jeff Olsson, New West Catering

Makes 4–6 servings

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 clove garlic, peeled, thinly sliced

1 shallot, peeled, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon ginger, peeled, julienned

2 pounds green beans, cleaned

3 ounces mirin, or a little more as needed

1 ⁄ 2 pound dulse or ogo

2 ounces pine nuts, toasted

Soy sauce and lemon, to taste

Heat olive oil in heavy-bottomed skillet over high heat; add garlic, shallot, ginger and sauté 30 seconds or so.

Add green beans and toss to distribute, then add mirin. When the green beans are tender and the mirin is almost evaporated add dulse, pine nuts, a dash of soy sauce and a squeeze of lemon.

Acorn Eating A Santa Barbara Tradition

by Brian Fagan

Did you know that acorns provided about 20% of the rural diet in Italy and Spain as recently as the 19th century? Acorn consumption was also widespread in Santa Barbara County before Europeans arrived. The oak nuts were a staple of native diet in much of California as early as 3,500 years ago.

At Spanish contact, 300,000 native Californians were harvesting more than 60,000 tons of acorns a year—more than today’s sweet corn harvest. Acorns formed as much as half of the diets of many inland Native American groups and were a vital component in the Chumash diet.

One shouldn’t be surprised: Acorns are nutritious, easily stored and make superb bread meal. An ideal food, one would think. Unfortunately they take a great deal of preparation to remove bitter-tasting tannic acid, which has to be leached away with time-consuming care before consumption. Hardly surprisingly, balanophagy is alive and well in California.

What is balanophagy? The word even defeated my faithful Shorter Oxford Dictionary. I turned to the full-length version, and was stumped again. The ultimate arbiter of the English language had never heard of the word. But I managed to glean enough information from a Latin dictionary to establish that balanophagy is acorn eating. Then I went to the Web, typed the word out of curiosity into Google and was astounded to find dozens of entries on this seemingly obscure subject. Acorn eating is a serious field of study and favorite part of the diet for more than a few people, archaeologists among them, many of them working in California.

California is a vast network of edible landscapes. Late spring and early summer was a special time, when fresh greens abounded and people could feast off miner’s lettuce, the unrolled fronds of bracken ferns, wild pea leaves and many more wild vegetables. Next, wild flowers burst into vibrant color, then into seed for the all-important grass harvest. By late summer and during early fall, blue elderberries, manzanita berries and other fruit reached perfection. Fall was the time of the nut harvests—hazel, piñons and, above all, oak acorns.

Fifteen species of oak grow from Southern California to Oregon, most of which provide a good harvest every two or three years, the yield varying greatly from one grove to the next. Acorns are not only plentiful, but have excellent nutritional value. Once processed into meal before cooking, they have between 4.5% and 18% fat, as high as 70% carbohydrates and about 5% protein, the proportions varying with the species. Compare this food value with maize and wheat, which contain about 1.5% fat, 10.3% protein and 73% carbohydrate. Add to these stellar nutritional qualities a tolerance for storage, and acorns are an ideal food. Some groups stored acorns for up to two years, to compensate for oak crop fluctuations. They kept them in baskets inside their houses or in large, raised outdoor granaries, carefully insulated against moisture and protected against rodents.

Unfortunately, oak acorns are a labor-intensive crop, which accounts for the decline in balanophagy today. The work began with the harvest. These were the two or three busiest weeks of the Indian year. As with grass seeds, the harvest required exquisite timing, reaching the trees before the acorns fell off into the mouths of waiting deer feeding on the nut-rich mast as it rotted on the ground. At harvest time, entire families would camp close to the oaks, the men taking advantage of the rich acorn droppings to hunt deer feasting under the oaks. The yield from a single tree could be as high as 55 pounds or more. But the harvest was easy compared to the necessary processing to make the nuts suitable for consumption. This was when the women’s hard work began.

spoilage rate. Soaking was an inefficient method, which did not produce enough treated acorns to support a large number of people. It also required ample water, so people located their base camps close to streams.

Once acorns became a staple in their own right, many groups switched to a more labor-intensive processing system. Once pounded, the women spread the meal in a porous depression in the ground. Leaching took between two and six hours, carried out by flushing water repeatedly through the meal into the soil below. This long, tedious process consumed enormous amounts of time. For example, Goldschmidt’s six pounds of pounded acorns became 5.3 pounds of meal. Leaching this sample took just under four hours, about 13 4 hours per two pounds. Even today’s cooks, with all their sophisticated technology, still leach acorns by soaking them in repeated batches of hot or cold water.

Acorns were a staff of life for native Californians. Fortunately, both Chumash and other cooks have preserved some of the elements of a unique cuisine from the distant past.

Once leached, acorn meal made excellent bread and a variety of soups and gruels. Acorn bread is sweet and very nice to the taste, but you will probably have to make your own. I have not seen it on store shelves.

The Chumash living inland, away from the rich fisheries of the Santa Barbara Channel, relied heavily on acorns. They also traded nuts or processed meal to people living on the coast. For centuries, canoe loads of acorns crossed the Santa Barbara Channel, where the skippers bartered them for much-valued shell beads, manufactured on Santa Cruz Island. In the centuries before Europeans arrived, shell beads became a form of currency that traveled as far inland as the Sierra and even into the Southwest.

Before the days of food processors, turning shelled nuts into meal took hours of careful pounding, far longer than milling grass seeds. First the women cracked the shells with a hammer stone, then inspected and winnowed them, and finally crushed them into meal with carefully shaped stone pestles and mortars. Once it was pounded to a fine consistency, they sifted the flour through a tightly woven basket, and it was finally ready for leaching. We have few estimates as to how long this lengthy process took. UCLA anthropologist Walter Goldschmidt once observed a woman grind up six pounds of dry shelled acorns in three hours. Even then, the meal was inedible until leached of its acids. You can leach acorns in various simple ways. The simplest, and perhaps the earliest, Indian method required immersing them in water or mud for weeks, even months, before pulverizing. This technique sweetened the acorns, but removed only a fraction of the tannins and involved a high

Today, we’ve almost forgotten about the nourishing acorn, which almost never figures in most peoples’ diet. More’s the pity, for this important ancient California food once sustained thousands of people in Santa Barbara County and elsewhere, through drought and years of plenty. Acorns were a staff of life for native Californians. Fortunately, both Chumash and other cooks have preserved some of the elements of a unique cuisine from the distant past.

Brian Fagan is emeritus professor of anthropology at the University of California, Santa Barbara. Brian is an internationally known writer as well as an expert cruising sailor. His many books include The Little Ice Age; Floods, Famines, and Emperors; and The Long Summer, also Elixir: A History of Humans and Water. For more information visit BrianFagan.com.

Processing Acorns

For detailed instructions on processing acorns using a cold water or a hot water technique, please go to the online article on EdibleSantaBarbara.com.

Goodwill and Guacamole–the recipe for SucceSS! t he c alifornia a vocado Festival provides a community venue where service clubs and nonprofit organizations come together in beautiful downtown c arpinteria to raise funds for their good works.

Epicurian DElights • EntErtainmEnt • EDucation • contEsts t hree G loriou S day S of celebration !

A Cupful of Cherries Locally Grown

Organic Coffee

By Nancy Oster

COLLIN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRAN

A coffee plant with buds, white blossoms, green cherries and red cherries all on the same branch.

I’m anticipating one last cup of coffee at 9pm on September 30… maybe a decaf. The Eat Local Challenge begins at midnight and lasts throughout the month of October.

A whole month without coffee? Maybe an occasional cup of Costa Rican or Ethiopian coffee made from beans roasted in Santa Barbara?

For the past three years as we approached the October challenge, the issue of coffee has come up frequently in discussions with fellow locavores about what is local and what is not. Generally we’ve agreed that locally roasted would be better than no coffee but technically we were stretching the definition of “local.” So the news that Good Land Organics is growing coffee only 14 miles from my house came as a welcome surprise. A search of the website revealed that they offer educational coffee tours with coffee tasting and the opportunity to purchase organic locally grown and roasted coffee. There’s hope!

I contacted owner Jay Ruskey about visiting his farm in the Winchester Canyon foothills to learn more about his coffee beans. The coffee tours are part of a coffee-growing feasibility study he is doing with University of California Cooperative Extension farm advisor Mark Gaskell. (Mark helped develop our local blueberry industry.)

The coffee plants grow amongst avocado trees and other tropical fruit trees at Good Land Organics in the Goleta foothills.

Does Coffee Grow in Santa Barbara?

Most of the world’s coffee grows between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn, approximately 23.5° above and below the equator. Santa Barbara is 34° from the equator. So eight years ago when Jay agreed to work on this project, he didn’t have high expectations. But he decided to give it a try since many other tropical fruits like cherimoya, dragon fruit and passion fruit grow successfully at his location.

Jay planted seedlings Mark had grown from seeds he’d brought back from El Salvador—primarily Caturra and Typica varieties of the Arabica species. There are two species of coffee: Arabica varieties are generally considered more artisanal and grow at higher elevations than the Robusta varieties.

Jay says, “some in and some out of the sun. I used the same nutrient program as we use for the avocados.”

In a few years he saw the first buds and white blossoms appear. “I was still skeptical when I saw blossoms, but then came the berries—wow, another milestone. Then all of sudden we had mature red coffee cherries!”

If it becomes clear that coffee is a profitable crop for local farmers, Jay would like to work with other farms to establish a Santa Barbara Coffee Growers Association.

Jay planted the young coffee plants among the aging avocado trees on his 42-acre ranch. Caturra is a good full-sun variety, but many coffee trees grow more naturally in the shade of a forest canopy. “I just grew them in with the avocados,”

The Answer Is Yes, the Question Is Why?

Jay currently has about 700 producing trees and a trial section of about a dozen other varieties he is testing. He has about 100 trees of the Geisha variety, a very old bean from Ethiopia, highly prized as a single-origin coffee and now grown primarily in Panama. Famed coffee farmer Price Peterson, who rediscovered the delicate floral Geisha variety growing on his Hacienda La Esmeralda farm in Panama, personally brought plants here for Jay to try.

One of the goals of this project is to figure out why these trees that normally grow in tropical highlands at 3,000 to 6,000

Opposite: The many stages of coffee, from red cherries to light-colored freshly dried beans to darker green beans to the familiar brown roasted beans.

Jay Ruskey of Good Land Organics.

feet are thriving at an elevation of only 650 feet, two miles from the ocean. It could be that in the tropics, higher elevations offer cooler night temperatures close to the nights here. Jay’s trees are protected from winds, frost and high heat, but our rainfall and humidity are lower. Irrigation and foggy coastal mornings seem to be supplementing the lack of rainfall and humidity.

Harvesting Ripe Coffee Cherries

Lindsey McManus, Jay’s operations manager, walks with me down the hill into the coffee zone. We are standing in the old avocado orchard among rows of chest-high coffee trees. She reaches out to pick a dark red cherry and hands it to me to taste. She picks another and pops it into her mouth. The cherries taste sweet. At the center are two white seeds. These seeds are what we refer to as coffee beans. We pick more. The deep mahogany-red cherries are sweetest and go into our pail. Lindsey warns me that an unripe cherry can change the flavor of the entire batch.

Jay points to a tree and lifts a branch with nicely spaced coffee cherries. Lindsey is standing next to me. “That is the most beautiful branch I’ve ever seen,” she says. She points out the buds, the white blossoms, green cherries and red cherries all on the same branch. “They usually have to draw pictures to show this.”

The Science of Sustainable Farming

Jay says, “I don’t know if this is good or bad. There’s no rest period for this tree. It could be stressing the tree too much.” There is little research to fall back on for growing coffee trees at our latitude or elevation. Jay is learning through trial and observation.

While the ample harvest is encouraging, Jay is worried that the trees will have shorter lifespans or inconsistent yield. Some visiting Ethiopian coffee farmers warned him recently that overproduction might drain energy from the trees.

During the time the beans ripen on the tree, their flavors concentrate and improve. A long maturation period of six to eight months is considered beneficial. But the cherries on Jay’s trees take 10 to 12 months to ripen, so while the flavor of the ripened bean is likely to be superior, the young beans are competing with the maturing beans for nutrients. It’s all about balance.

The good news is that this year’s harvest will be double or maybe even triple the amount harvested last year and the trees still look healthy. Jay will continue to observe his trees as they mature and document the best local growing conditions for these varieties so other farmers can benefit from his experience.

For optimum flavor the coffee cherries must be picked when they are dark red.

Lindsey McManus operates the hopper to de-pulp the seeds from the cherries.

De-pulping and Drying the Beans

We return to the barn to process the newly picked cherries, which must be de-pulped within 24 hours. Jay loads them into the hopper of his de-pulper and cranks the handle. The seeds roll out of the cherries and drop into a pan of water. They will remain in the water bath to ferment for 24 to 36 hours.

When the stickiness on the outer parchment hulls is gone, the beans are put onto elevated screens to dry for two or more weeks, until they reach the optimum moisture level. Then they sit in the hulls six to eight weeks before being de-hulled and roasted.

De-hulling and Roasting the Beans

Will Stagg arrived at Good Land Organics about five years ago to be Jay’s agricultural technician. Will says, “My job is to make things work.” By that he means keep the equipment running and work alongside Jay to address harvest and post-harvest challenges. One of those challenges has been finding the best way to roast the beans.

The green beans are inside the parchment hull, so they are run through a hand-cranked machine that pinches the parchment. A fan blows the light parchment hulls off the beans as they fall into a pan below the de-huller.

The original plan was to ship the green beans to an industrial roaster when the crop got large enough. But they’ve discovered that industrial roasters can’t handle smaller beans. Their beans fall through the roasters’ screens.

This is not high tech, but it works. Will has repaired and rebuilt his small roaster three or four times. One time it caught fire. It takes eight to 10 minutes to roast about a pound of beans. Color, smell, sound of the beans cracking, volume of smoke and release of the burnt silver skin outer coating help Will identify when the roasting is done. He cools the beans by pouring them back and forth between two strainers. These beans are ready for purchase at the end of the tour, or occasionally at the Tuesday or Saturday downtown Santa Barbara farmers markets.

Will prefers a medium roast. Roasted beans have complex flavors often destroyed by darker roasting. There are approximately 800 aromatic compounds in coffee beans, more aromatic flavor components than in wine.

Will It Be Profitable?

Jay says, “There are a lot of people watching and waiting to see if I can make a local coffee crop profitable.” One Arabica tree yields about seven to eight pounds of ripe cherries or about one pound of roasted coffee beans per year. That’s a lot of picking and processing for what seems like a small yield.

But the value of good coffee has increased. Fifteen years ago, people were happy with standard canned grocery store coffee blends, but today they are looking for more from their cup of coffee. Specialty coffees at coffee tastings, called cuppings, have raised the bar for coffee… and the prices. Kona beans currently sell for $30 to $40 a pound and Geisha can sell for over $150 a pound.

Certified organic beans bring a higher price. Pesticide residues concentrate in seeds. Fungicides are commonly used in conventionally grown coffee, so this is a food where organic really makes a difference.

The seeds of the freshly de-pulped coffee cherries dropping into a water bath.

Coffee beans drying on elevated screens.

Roasting Coffee

At Good Land Organics, Will Stagg does most of the coffee roasting. He says, “I had to learn to roast to get a cup of coffee from our beans.” Lindsey McManus, the new operations manager, says she is learning a lot from Will, even though she has had her own coffee cart business, worked on a coffee farm in Hawaii and does home coffee roasting for family and friends. Between them, they have a lot of roasting experience.

Roasting your own coffee makes a lot of sense. Will says, “Our greatgrandparents roasted their own coffee, probably in a cast-iron skillet on the stove or fire.” He adds, “I’d love to see the world go back to home roasting. After five days your coffee is done, it’s lost its quality and flavor.” In fact, 85% of the aromatic compounds have dissipated.

“You roast to the bean,” Lindsey explains. “It’s important to note the moisture content, density and age of the bean. The goal is to express the origin flavors (usually more subtle) and roast flavors, creating a more complex cup of coffee. Beans of different varieties grown in different regions roasted medium to light, express different nuances in the cup.”

She describes the process Will uses to roast their beans: A rotating drum is heated before he adds the beans. The temperature drops and comes back up as the drum rotates in the hot chamber. Moisture inside the bean converts to steam and breaks the inner walls of the beans, making a cracking sound. Will listens for “first crack,” which indicates that the beans are reaching light roast. The time from first crack to second crack is important. He watches the beans as they turn darker, the silver skin chaff on the beans’ surface begins to burn and fly off and the roaster releases smoke. At “second crack” the inner line under the belly of the bean cracks open. At that point you move into the dark roast range. Will keeps his total roasting time within 8 to 10 minutes. Otherwise the flavors become dull, or “baked.”

When the sound, the smell, the color and the time are all right, Will removes the beans and begins cooling them by pouring them back and forth between strainers. These are medium roast, no charcoal smell or flavor. The darker the roast, the less complex the flavor. Subtle flavors disappear.

Can you do it on the stove? Absolutely. A cast-iron skillet works fine, but you need to keep the beans moving by swirling and flipping beans in the skillet. You’re limited to a handful of beans, but it’s enough coffee to brew up a few cups and really impress your friends.

The coffee tours continue to educate people about coffee quality and provide supplemental income to enhance the profit margin.

Local from Seed to Cup

Studying every aspect of coffee production, Jay gathers seeds from his most successful trees and, with the help of volunteer Master Gardener Jane Swain, grows seedlings for future plantings on his farm and to share with other farmers. Plants may also be available for purchase on the coffee tour.

At this point there aren’t enough roasted coffee beans for sales manager Elizabeth Edelman to ship coffee to customers, but the online sales of a wide variety of exotic fruits interplanted with Hass avocados, cherimoyas and citrus will provide an easy path for orders in the future. For now, access to a cup of locally grown coffee will be limited to coffee tours and the occasional farmers market (especially during the month of October).

Plans for the Future

If it becomes clear that coffee is a profitable crop for local farmers, Jay would like to work with other farms to establish a Santa Barbara Coffee Growers Association with a local brand and shared marketing.

Jay says, “A feasibility study is groundwork for the hard work. I see this as a collaborative process. The coffee market is so large there’s room for everyone.”

The Scientist Farmer

While I began this article with an interest in local coffee production, I came away with a deeper appreciation for farmers like Jay Ruskey who are willing take the risk of planting experimental crops and then waiting eight or 10 years to find out if they will be economically viable.

As the excitement over his potential success builds, so does the pressure to succeed. But Jay remains focused on the health of his crops as the observant farmer, recording what he observes, listening to other farmers and sharing what he learns.

Nancy Oster always thought coffee was an acquired taste until she tasted her son Shaun’s perfectly brewed coffee. Freshly roasted coffee takes even that to a new level. And now she’s developed a taste for coffee cherries as well.

Resources

Take a Tour: Good Land Organics

Tours are held on Saturdays 10am–1pm and include a coffee tasting and walking tour. 805 685-4189; GoodLandOrganics.com

La Nogalera

The Walnut Orchard

by Dina Clapinski

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEANINE BRANDI MCLYCHOK

It was only a year ago that I realized what a walnut tree looked like. I was on an organic farm tour in Goleta and as we walked by the rows of spinach, squash and parsley, the guide pointed to a mature tree, which flaunted a plethora of chartreuse-colored orbs. The guide explained that orchards of these trees once filled this farmland but now only a few remained. Having no idea what type of tree it was, I innocently asked, “What is it?” and was genuinely shocked when he said, “a walnut tree.”

I realized at that moment that even though I’d been eating walnuts for 30-plus years, I had no idea how they grew or what they looked like out of their recognizable brain-like shell. This would be the beginning of uncovering

the fascinating tale of the walnut and how one of our very own Goleta residents played a prominent role in creating America’s walnut industry.

The Royal Nut

Once upon a time, the kings and queens of ancient Persia dined on the highly prized Juglans regia, which literally means “royal walnut.” These heavenly morsels are the oldest known tree-food, dating back thousands of years. Traded along the Asian and Middle Eastern Silk Road routes, walnuts grew in popularity and eventually spread throughout the world by way of sea trade. English sailors transported the nut to the New World; thus they became known as English walnuts.

The walnut orchard at Rancho Encantado.

Walnuts were brought to California by the Franciscans in the late 1700s, and naturally they came to be known as Mission walnuts. The Spanish name for walnut is nogal, and correspondingly the name for a walnut orchard is nogalera Interestingly enough, there was already a native variety of walnut in the Americas, the Juglans nigra, and in California a native variety called Juglans californica. This very thickshelled, tannin-rich nut is referred to as the California Black Walnut, and some locals may have them growing in their backyards. While neither is grown on a large scale, black walnuts are grown around the world as a specialty food and are prized for their beautiful timber.

It Started in Goleta

California cultivation of the English walnut began in Goleta. In 1867 nursery owner Joseph Sexton started planting walnuts both in his nursery and in an orchard of his own. He painstakingly cultivated his walnuts, crossing the soft- and harder-shelled varieties to create the type of walnuts that are produced today. This new variety became the soft-shell walnut of commerce. In some circles, Sexton is known as the “Father of the Walnut Industry” and did more than any other to promote commercial walnut production in California. His variety flourished in our Mediterranean climate, and by the 1870s Southern California’s fertile land accounted for 65% of all Golden State walnut acreage.

While over 100 varieties are recognized, our local growers have chosen to focus mainly on the older heritage varieties (Concord, Placentia, Payne), which they believe are superior in the rich depth of walnut flavor and aroma. Another reason for the variation relates to the harvest; as Art Hibbits of Hibbits Ranch explains, “We harvest significantly longer than the Central Valley does, which results in more intense flavors.”

Jose Baer of Rancho La Viña and Rancho Encantado notes that even within the same variety, taste varies dramatically depending on where they are grown. “Paynes grown in Santa Ynez near the 154 have a very different flavor than the ones over near Lompoc.” When I asked him what was responsible for the differences in flavor, he said, “I wish I could tell you.” I suppose Mother Nature still has a few secrets left.

The Walnut Harvest

A few months after my farm tour, I found myself completely surrounded by walnut trees as my friend Jeanine and I drove through the back hills of Santa Ynez. As we got out of the car, the noise of the antiquated huller machine was deafening. It was harvest time at Rancho La Viña and thousands of walnuts were getting their green outer hulls removed.

With only a few walnut orchards remaining, the ones still in Santa Barbara County represent an important part of the past and are to be cherished.

Sadly, local walnut growing would not last. Production dramatically shifted to the Central Valley, where they experienced better yields, and by the 1950s only a handful of family farms were left. Santa Barbara County was once a player in the walnut industry, but now only accounts for 0.1–0.2% of California’s huge production, which provides 99% of the supply in the United States and 75% of world trade.

With only a few walnut orchards remaining, the ones still in Santa Barbara County represent an important part of the past and are to be cherished. The major growers combined have 360 total acres: Rancho La Viña, Rancho Encantado (each 125 acres), Hibbits Ranch (80 acres) and Edalatpour Ranch (30 acres) make up the major growers in the county. These four ranches are located in the heart of wine country, along the Santa Ynez River between Buellton and Lompoc.

As farmland shifted, so did the types of nuts that were grown. Central Valley orchards moved away from the heirloom walnuts and replaced them with varieties selectively bred for larger meat, thinner shells and higher yields.

Walnuts are harvested between August and November in a process similar to that of other tree nuts. Orchard floors are swept clean. Mechanical shakers clamp an arm-like apparatus to the tree trunk and vigorously shake until it is raining green. Walnuts, along with leaves and branches that also fall from the “miniearthquakes,” are brushed into long rows between the trees, extending the entire length of the orchard floors. Walnuts are separated from the other debris and are driven in huge bins over to the huller, which removes the outer husk.

Damaged nuts or those with the hull still intact are separated out by hand before the now more familiar brownshelled nuts travel to the dehydrating room. Standing in this room is quite an experience. The minute I opened the heavy door, the noisy fans, intense heat and heavy humidity enveloped me. It reminded me of getting off the airplane in Bali and taking my first breath of nonpressurized air. After climbing several stairs and descending across a thin gratelike catwalk, I saw gigantic heaps of multi-colored walnuts in metal bins. The walnuts varied in color depending on moisture content and it is here they sit until optimal moisture levels have been reached. This dehydration step protects the quality of the nut and reduces deterioration.

Top: The walnut harvest at Rancho Encantado. Middle left: Jose Baer. Right: Dried walnuts are transferred to a truck and taken to a facility up north for further processing. Bottom left: The walnuts on the tree, ready for harvest, covered in their green husk.

This operation was quite different before all the machinery became commonplace. Jose recounted his uncle’s memory of how walnuts were once harvested: “Pickers used poles with hooks to shake the walnuts from the tree limbs. The pickers then walked along with a gunnysack between their legs and picked the walnuts up off of the ground, separating the hull from the nut right there in the orchard. The nuts were then spread on screens and left to dry in the sun. The screens were shaken a few times during the day to dry the nuts evenly. Once the nuts were dry they were hauled to Goleta.” Jose chuckled when he told me, “The very first harvest was hauled in a couple of gunnysacks on the top of an old Packard in the ’20s.”

Nutty Goodness

While often associated with oatmeal raisin cookies and banana bread, walnuts are a superfood in their own right. Walnuts bear the distinction of the nut with the highest overall antioxidant activity. Nutritionist Gerri French, RD notes, “Walnuts are one of the few sources of plant-derived omega-3 fatty acids and contain nutrients that stimulate our brain. Most Americans are sorely lacking in these essential anti-inflammatory fats in part because we are not eating plant and animal sources but also due to our intake of highly processed foods.”

low-to-medium temperatures. And once opened it should be stored in the refrigerator, where it can keep for many months.

Along with fiber and protein, walnuts are rich in plant sterols, which are best known for their cholesterol-lowering effects. Vitamins and minerals are packed into these tiny spheres, providing copper, folate, magnesium and vitamin E. Note that all nuts have a high concentration of fats and therefore have a tendency to become rancid. They should be kept in a dark, cool, dry place or, for extended shelf life, may also be stored in the refrigerator or freezer.

Walnuts can be enjoyed alone or in recipes from savory to sweet—in salads, on thick Greek yogurt or sprinkled on ice cream for a delectable treat. They are fabulous in a variety of baked goods or pulsed in a food processer with arugula and Parmesan for pesto. Jose told me this simple trick that his family does once a week. “We take raw walnuts, roast them lightly in a cast-iron skillet and then put them in a glass jar and immediately into the fridge. The walnuts have a great toasted flavor and stay crumbly, which is perfect to add to any food.”

In 2004, Rancho La Viña, Hibbits Ranch and Edalatpour Ranch combined efforts to create a truly exquisite product: La Nogalera Walnut Oil, fittingly named for the walnut orchard. The oil is made using the traditional French method, roasting the shelled walnuts before pressing for maximum flavor. This incredible oil lends itself to a large number of uses, from being tossed with steamed farmers market veggies to drizzled over grilled Santa Barbara seafood—it can even be used in baking. With a smoke point similar to olive oil, walnut oil is best suited to using with

With such a rich history in Santa Barbara County, it’s my hope that the remaining walnut orchards are here to stay. When I asked Jose what he thought of the future of local walnut farming, he responded, “We’ll never compete in the walnut commodities market, but we’ll continue to be competitive in markets where people care about flavor and good-tasting foods.”

La nogalera —the walnut orchard—means many more things to me now. Learning about the local history, the cultivation and the many uses of the walnut have furthered my appreciation of this royal nut.

Dina Clapinski is the co-founder of BeFoodSmart.com, a food additive database dedicated to educating the public about what’s really in food. In addition to writing, she loves speaking about reading food labels and avoiding additives. This Santa Barbara mama has one little cherub and happily supports her hubby’s new homebrewing habit.

Resources

available

toasted and in a couple of flavors. They are available at the Santa Barbara Farmers Markets and at Plow to Porch; RanchoLaVina.com.

La Nogalera Walnut Oil

Available at the Santa Barbara Farmers Markets and at a number of natural foods stores, as well as online at LaNogaleraWalnutOil.com.

See the recipe for Walnut Caramel Cake on page 14.

Rancho La Viña walnuts are

raw,

The chartreuse-colored blossoms of the walnut tree in the spring.

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Ken Jacobsen, Michelle Martinich, Jeff DeVine, and Laurie Leighty

A Campus Garden Marshall Chrostowski at the Pacifica Graduate Institute

by Janice Cook Knight

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIN FEINBLATT

In my wildest fantasy, school grounds would be beautiful, nurturing places for students to learn and for teachers to facilitate that learning. What would it be like if campuses, where adults and especially children spend so much time, were surrounded by lush plant life, some of it edible?

The elementary school I attended in the San Fernando Valley was an “asphalt jungle,” with few trees, minimal landscaping and a tiny garden plot out in back of a bungalow where second-graders could experiment with growing vegetables. This was many years ago, but unfortunately those school grounds haven’t changed much since, and similar schools are the norm in most of the country. Thankfully, in our area many schools are adding edible gardens to educate students about food production and healthy eating. Often, though, the rest of the on-campus landscaping is not remarkable. Students can be hard on landscaping, so the reasoning goes that plants on many school campuses have to be tough. Many college landscapes are not much better.

The Pacifica Graduate Institute presents a far different model. At its 12-acre Lambert campus in Carpinteria (a second campus is located on Ladera Lane, in Montecito), a core group of buildings is surrounded by a seven-acre “greenbelt.” It consists of two acres of row crops, a 3-acre lemon grove, a stone- and pome-fruit orchard, native gardens with riparian wildlife corridor, Mediterranean

gardens, an Australian woodland, a South African garden and a small redwood grove that acts as a windbreak for the row crops.

This campus was once the home of the Chumash native people. In the 20th century, Max Fleischmann, heir to the Fleischmann yeast fortune, built Edgewood Ranch on this site, which once included 1,200 acres of agriculture and fruit trees. Some of those original buildings are still a part of the campus.

In July I did a walkabout at the campus gardens with Marshall Chrostowski, the gardener of record at the Pacifica Graduate Institute since 1989, and since 2000 the garden designer as well. He was trained as a plant ecologist, ethno-botanist and soil scientist and practiced as a tropical ecologist, bio-geographer and ethno-botanist. He studied at Dartmouth, Rutgers and the University of Wisconsin, Madison, before moving to California.

This was my second tour, having visited last year during a tour sponsored by the local chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers. I’d heard that Marshall was growing grains at this property and was curious about what grains could be grown in the Santa Barbara area.

We begin the tour at Pacifica’s diverse vegetable and fruit garden, accented with towering dahlias and red amaranth plants, and in one corner what looks like the biggest “sunflower” plant I’ve ever seen. Actually, it’s a perennial species of Tithonia from

Above from left: chicken, amaranth, sunflower and apple. Opposite: Marshall Chrostowski holding one of the tall stalks of amaranth growing in the vegetable garden.

Growing Grains in Your Home Garden

by Marshall Chrostowski

Some people may want to experiment with growing grains in their home garden. Here are some of my findings

All the grain types are suitable for growing in Santa Barbara, but I would recommend passing up rye, tritiale, oats (bird predation problems), teff, quinoa (long season and hates humidity and, at ripening, any rainfall). The millets are beautiful but likely would require extra effort to harvest, thresh and cook.

Small patches of, say, 50 square feet will yield enough to process and taste the variety. Some of the grains grow very tall and arch outward while others stay compact and tidy. Most of the barleys are well-behaved, as are the spelt and einkorn and even the emmer wheats. Kamut and Sonoran and durum wheats generally tend to be hoggers of space.

Sorghums are wonderful in the landscape, self-fertile and useful as food and ornaments. Seeds are large, the sap of the syrup types is tasty.

Naked wheats and barleys (hull-less varieties) are easily threshed and they are very pretty in the landscape. The ancient varieties of wheats do not thresh clean but are beautiful in the landscape and can be milled for cereals and pastries.

The most drought resistant are the sorghums and pearl millet; the latter having large whitish seeds of excellent flavor and milling properties. Barleys are likely more tolerant of drought than most modern wheats; some of the barleys of India and Tibet are reputed to be very drought tolerant.

For more information and a detailed list of grains to plant by season, visit the online article at EdibleSantaBarbara.com.

Mexico, and the yellow flowers smell like—mmm—chocolate, though it’s not edible.

There are rows of kale, heirloom Kwintus beans (like a Romano bean), squashes, lettuce, eggplant, collards and artichokes. A few fruit trees are here as well, including a delicious Pettingill apple, although I know from my previous visit that most of the fruit trees are located some distance away in a separate orchard area. Marshall consults with an assistant who is preparing a box of produce for a customer, a local monastery. In the packing area a huge box of elephant garlic, the biggest bulbs I’ve ever seen, are drying. “Drying shrinks the bulbs and concentrates the flavor,” Marshall says.

What many people probably don’t realize is that Pacifica’s garden produce is for sale. Students and staff comprise about half of their regular customers, and the rest is available to the community at large. The produce can be delivered; available produce is posted on the garden’s website each week, and customers choose items and place their orders in advance. Excess produce is donated to Foodbank of Santa Barbara County and other outlets for those in need.

Pacifica is hosting a Foodbank event in October, and Marshall is planting to prepare for it. The garden must provide most of the produce for an event that will feed 150 people. The area where the primary vegetable garden is planted was not always prime growing land. In fact this spot once was covered with a driveway, a parking lot and some buildings, and underneath much of it there is still road base. It was easier to layer soil and compost on top of it, effectively turning the whole area into one big raised bed, than to haul the road base away. To this end, in a separate area of the garden compost is being made from garden waste, and several large and productive compost heaps are in various stages of decomposition; when they are finished, the compost goes back to fertilize the garden.

Marshall is a conservator of ancient grains and fava beans. Eight-foot-tall red amaranth is sprinkled throughout the growing area. Marshall grows it mostly for birds and other wildlife—it’s a unique variety that has adapted to his particular location, a cross between several varieties he’s grown there. He’s grown a variety of quinoas, and several kinds of Tibetan and Indian barleys, though only the amaranth and sweet corn were planted when I visited.

“These plants preceded wheat in human usage,” Marshall tells me. “In Asia there are a lot of ‘naked grains,’ grains that grow without a husk. Having a husk makes grains difficult to process,” but these naked grains are much easier for the backyard gardener. “This is a good barley-growing area.” Who knew?

Amaranth, I learned, besides being grown for its seeds, has tasty leaves. “The seeds can be popped, like tiny popcorn,” Marshall says. As he speaks I remember eating sweets in Mexico made of popped amaranth kernels and honey; at the time I wondered why I’d never seen them in the United States.

So many foods, Marshall laments, are available in the world, but we limit ourselves to just a few. He tells me about yacon, a nutritious and tasty root vegetable he grows that is harvested in the fall. It’s native to the Andes, and most North Americans aren’t yet familiar with it. He also grows cardoons, a relative of the artichoke (the stems are eaten, not the flower), another uncommon but delicious crop from the Mediterranean region.

Marshall gave up the academic life to design and work in farms and gardens, but brings all of his knowledge of geology and geography to his current work. During the tour he points out geological land features that affect the growing conditions. He is both farmer and horticulturist as well as geologist and geographer.

“At some point I decided I wanted to be my grandmother,” Marshall tells me. “A Polish peasant, she didn’t speak English, though she could read and write Polish. This is my grandmother’s farm in New Hampshire—I’m just repeating what she did, except this is a demonstration farm. She used to drive us crazy making us work in the fields.” Marshall says his grandmother grew mainly potatoes and pickle cucumbers for the family restaurant and bakery, called, coincidentally, Marshall’s Market.

During the 20-plus years that Marshall has been there, the grounds at Pacifica have been transformed from much open space to thoughtful groups of plantings rich in texture, color

and diversity. In designing this landscape, originally more formal plantings were envisioned, such as might be found at Oxford University or other more typical campuses.

This was not what Marshall had in mind. “Pacifica is a depth psychology, mythology, humanity-oriented institution, trying to walk the talk of sustainability. Jungians say you feed the soul; I’m saying we need to feed the body,” Marshall explains. “Part of feeding the body is the actual physical presence of the gardens in all their lushness and diversity, edible perennials along one side for people, birds, animals. It’s the Permaculture principle.”

Besides the many garden spaces, Marshall recently created a natural-looking grotto complete with a beautiful fountain and plants in soft colors: pinks and lavenders. This grotto and a nearby grove of gingko trees were designed per the request of former students. Part of Pacifica’s mission, and Marshall’s as its garden designer, is to respond to student needs.

Though already serene and beautiful, over time the plants at the grotto will arch over the sandstone boulders, creating a sacred and sheltered spot for students to visit. “The grotto is a crowning achievement because it was a hard thing to build,” Marshall tells me. “The boulders were carefully placed.” Huge sandstone boulders were moved here from another part of the property that was undergoing construction.

We notice a box of Kleenex at the grotto; students who are studying psychology at this level experience wells of their own deep feelings. This is just what this landscape has been designed for: It offers solace.

That dream of a school environment that nurtures students? Turns out it’s already a reality, and in our own community. Perhaps the existence of this garden will inspire others, and even spread to include campuses where young students can thrive and explore.

Janice Cook Knight is the author of two cookbooks for the Follow Your Heart Restaurant in Canoga Park, California. She writes, teaches cooking, facilitates a cookbook-writing workshop and lectures on Julia Child. Janice lives in Santa Barbara with her family, chickens and cat and loves to garden and experiment in the kitchen.

Resources

You can purchase seasonal produce from “Marshall’s Market.”

The order form and more information is available at Pacifica.edu/The_Garden_Order_Form.aspx

The gardens at Pacifica Institute are also available for group tours. Call 805 687-7109 or email Marshall at mcfarm@silcom. com; Pacifica.edu

The Foodbank of Santa Barbara County is celebrating its 30th anniversary with a gala held at the Pacifica Graduate Institute’s Lambert Road Campus on Sunday, October 28, 11:30am–2:30pm. Seating is limited; for information please contact Jane Lindsey at 805 967-5741 x101; jlindsey@foodbanksbc.org.

Saturday, Sept. 29, 2012

Plaza Vera Cruz

10 - 6pm, 130 Cota St.

Local Beer and Wine Garden • Music

SOL Food Chef Competition • Live Animals

Hands-On Workshops • Cooking Demos Indy Foodie Awards • Garden Of Eatin’ Gardening Demos • Kids’ Activities

GROWING A BRIGHTER FOOD FUTURE

The Pleasures of the Autumnal Market

by Pascale Beale

Albert Camus once wrote, “Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower.” I thought of this as I drove back to Santa Barbara through the picturesque rolling hills of the Santa Ynez Valley. I was struck by the beauty of our local landscape, captured in exquisite color on one of those pristine autumnal afternoons. The colors were beginning to change in the local vineyards, and the evenings had started to have a little nip in the air.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIN FEINBLATT

Ihad picked up some local wine in preparation for a dinner with my antipodean cousins. They were here for exactly 18 hours, and I was trying to decide on the best way to highlight the pleasures of living on the Central Coast. As they would not be able to wind their way through the local tasting rooms, I hoped that dinner accompanied by our local wines would be a good substitute. And what better way to showcase the delicious abundance of the local farms than to meet them at the farmers market?

It never ceases to amaze me how taken visitors are with our local markets. We—the local residents—have become used to them, but those who come from afar, even those who come from great culinary hubs, are struck by the variety, quality, flavor and depth of our local produce. It is a great pleasure to introduce friends to Santa Barbara whilst walking along State Street perusing the season’s bounty.

A cellist serenaded passers-by as the sun started its slow descent towards the horizon. Children darted through the crowds, their hands sticky with the last of the late-summer peaches. We wandered past the tables laden with apples, pomegranates, dates and squash, picking up the items we needed for dinner.

My family has scattered to the four corners of the earth but we all have one thing in common: We love good food and sharing it with others. Our conversation turned to meals shared in the past and our travels across France. I remembered spending a similar afternoon in a remote Provencal village during a chestnut festival and eating salads filled with roasted nuts. At that moment we found ourselves in front of La Nogalera’s walnut stand. They make the most sensuous oil, which has the essence of roasted walnuts. Our first course was created on the spot. A pear and walnut salad—what better way to showcase the season?

I had already picked up a local farm-raised chicken and wanted to find some grapes to roast along with it. We munched on different varieties, finally choosing two different kinds to add to the already heavy baskets.

Again my thoughts drifted across the ocean. Our old farmhouse in France has an ancient vine that covers the terrace that is adjacent to the kitchen. We eat most of our meals under the dappled light and grateful shade provided by this vine in the hot summer months. As autumn comes around the leaves turn marvelous shades of Butternut squash and pomegranate red. You might have to sit outside with a sweater on, but that terrace—it is just as welcoming. Despite its ancient age, this vine produces vast quantities of grapes, which we harvest continuously lest they splat on those seated below. I am reminded of this each time I see great mounds of grapes at the market.

Food, I realized, is a delicious memory. We anticipate a taste because it was part of our childhood; a particular dish because a favorite grandmother or aunt prepared it, or a sip of golden wine because it was served on a special occasion. Santa Barbara, with its market, provides such memories. A culinary taste of our terroir.

Everyone stood in the kitchen as we prepared dinner, a glass of wine in hand with some fresh goat cheese from Drake Family Farms in the shape of their delicate and floral Glacier. We made dessert as the chicken was roasting, sending wafts of succulent aromas through the house. Our taste buds anticipated the meal to come. A collage of images from the afternoon drifted through our conversation. A moment for all to treasure, once again linked to the preparing and sharing of a meal. Few things, I think, give as much pleasure as this.

Pascale Beale grew up in England and France surrounded by a family that has always been passionate about food, wine and the arts. She was taught to cook by her French mother and grandmother. She is the author of A Menu for All Seasons—Spring, A Menu for All Seasons—Summer, A Menu for All Seasons—Fall and A Menu for All Seasons—Winter. Visit her website at PascalesKitchen.com.

Recipes

Pear and Walnut Salad

This salad is delicious served with walnut raisin bread.

Makes 8 servings

FOR THE VINAIGRETTE

1 ⁄4 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons walnut oil

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 tablespoon mustard

Salt and pepper

FOR THE SALAD

Olive oil

3 firm pears, cored and thinly sliced (you can use Asian pears for this salad as they add a nice crunch)

3 ⁄4 pound mixed green-colored salad greens

1 ⁄ 2 bunch chives, finely chopped

4 ounces fresh goat cheese, crumbled

2 tablespoons chopped walnuts

Place all the vinaigrette ingredients in the bottom of a large salad bowl and whisk thoroughly together. Place the salad servers over the vinaigrette and then place the salad greens on top of the utensils to keep them out of the vinaigrette. Set aside.

Pour a little olive oil into a wide skillet placed over medium-high heat. Add in the pear slices and cook, shaking the pan frequently, for 1–2 minutes. The pear slices need to be warmed through, but not cooked to the point that they are falling apart. Place the warm pears on top of the salad greens.

Top with the goat cheese and walnuts.

When you are ready to serve, remove the utensils and let the salad fall into the vinaigrette and toss to coat well

Citrus Roasted Chicken with Grapes

Makes 8 servings

4 large sprigs rosemary, stems removed

4 sprigs thyme, stems removed

Zest and juice of 2 lemons (keep the squeezed lemon halves)

Zest and juice of 2 oranges (keep the squeezed orange halves)

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt and pepper

2 organic chickens

11 ⁄ 2 pounds grapes, de-stemmed, plus more for garnish, if desired

Preheat oven to 400°.

Combine the rosemary, thyme, zest and juice of the lemons and oranges, olive oil, salt and pepper in a small bowl and mix well.

Place the chickens in a large roasting pan and rub the outside with the citrus/herb mixture and put the citrus halves in the cavities of the chickens. Place the grapes all around the chickens. Roast in the middle of the oven for 15 minutes and then lower the temperature to 350° and roast for a further 1 hour and 15 minutes, turning the chickens once or twice so that all sides are evenly browned. When the chickens are cooked, remove them from the roasting pan and set aside to rest before carving, loosely covered with foil.

Cut the chickens and serve on hot plates with the grapes and the following Glazed Carrots.

Glazed Carrots with White Wine

Makes 8 servings

3 pounds carrots, assorted varieties and colors if possible, peeled and cut into 3” pieces

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

Salt Pepper

1 ⁄ 3 cup white wine

2 tablespoons chives, finely sliced

Place the carrots in a steamer and cook for 6–7 minutes. They should be just cooked.

Just before serving the carrots, pour the olive oil and add the butter to a large skillet placed over medium-high heat. When the butter is foaming add in the carrots, a large pinch of salt and some black pepper and sauté for 2–3 minutes or until tender. Add in the white wine and cook until it has completely evaporated. This will not take long. Sprinkle the chives over the carrots, toss to combine well and serve immediately.

Espresso

Semifreddo

dessert. It is creamy and similar to ice cream in texture but not as cold. This version combines two of my favorite things: espresso and whipped cream.

Makes 8 servings

1 shot espresso

1 vanilla bean

Freshly ground black pepper

5 large egg whites

2 cups heavy cream

1 ⁄ 3 cup sugar

2 ounces dark chocolate, grated

1 tablespoon cocoa powder

Coarse sea salt

Pour the espresso into a small bowl. Cut the vanilla bean in half lengthways and then scrape the seeds out of each half using the back edge of a knife. Add the vanilla seeds to the espresso. Add 2 or 3 twists of black pepper to the mixture, stir and set aside.

In a second bowl whisk the cream until soft peaks form, being careful not to over-whip them. Set aside.

In a third bowl whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Gradually add in the sugar and beat until the egg whites are firm.

Using a large spatula, carefully fold the espresso mixture into the whipped cream. Then carefully fold the beaten egg whites into the espresso cream mixture. Take care to have a light touch, as you want to incorporate as much air as possible in your dessert. Spoon the semifreddo into a large shallow dish, approximately 8 by 10 inches (a Pyrex dish will work well). Cover and freeze for 2 hours.

Remove the dessert from the freezer 5 minutes before serving. Spoon some of the semifreddo into each bowl. Sprinkle a little of the grated dark chocolate over the semifreddo, dust with some cocoa powder and add a few grains of coarse sea salt.

SEPTEMBER

FALL EDIBLE EVENTS

SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 15

Bread & Roses

4–8pm QAD in Summerland

Bread & Roses is the Fund for Santa Barbara’s largest annual celebration with a gourmet buffet-style dinner from our region’s finest restaurants, wines from local vintners and both a live & silent auction. $75 only available in advance. FundForSantaBarbara.org

OCTOBER

FRIDAY–SUNDAY OCTOBER 5–7

26th Annual California Avocado Festival

Linden Ave. in Carpinteria

Eat your way through the delicious food galleria, enjoy fantastic music and entertainment, visit the kids’ block party, browse the arts and crafts and Avocado Expo Tent and watch or take part in the famous guacamole contest. Free admission; 805 684-0038; AvoFest.com

SATURDAY OCTOBER 13

Carrot Mob

Location to be announced

A reverse boycott by a group of people who collectively drive up sales at a preselected business, while the business agrees to make sustainable improvements to its operations. Location and time will be revealed shortly before the event. Details at CECSB.org

OCTOBER

1–31

Eat Local Challenge

In conjunction with epicure.sb, Edible Santa Barbara, the Santa Barbara Farmers Market and the Community Environmental Council (CEC) are co-sponsoring an Eat Local Challenge for the month of October. For more info visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com and join the Google group: http://groups.google.com/ group/sb-eat-local-challenge

SATURDAY OCTOBER 13

Celebration of Harvest

1–4pm at Rancho Sisquoc Winery in Santa Maria

Celebrate the 2012 Harvest with all 100+ winery members while strolling the beautiful historic grounds of Rancho Sisquoc Winery. Taste local, regional produce interpreted by dozens of the area’s finest restaurants, catering companies and gourmet food creators. 805 688-0881; SBCountyWines.com

FRIDAY–SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 21–23

Food Confessions

Lobero Theatre, 33 E Canon Perdido St. Food Confessions is a delicious, hilarious and original new play by Nancy Nufer combining a large helping of food, a dash of family and a whole lot of crazy. Best bet: their “Supper Club” ticket, which includes light supper and dessert, with premiere seating for $47. Tickets can be purchased through the Lobero Theatre. 805 966-4946; Lobero.com

THURSDAY

OCTOBER 4

First Thursday

5–8pm; downtown Santa Barbara

The tastings, art and performance of this First Thursday are part of epicure.sb, the monthlong celebration of cuisine, libations and culture in Santa Barbara County, with the theme this year of “local ingredients.” 805 962-2098; EpicureSB.com

SATURDAY OCTOBER 6

Cooking in the Vineyard

3pm at Los Olivos Café in Los Olivos Sam and Shawnda Marmorstein, owners of The Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café and Bernat Vineyard & Winery, will host a cooking demonstration by Chef Chris Joslyn and pour their CCOF certified organic Bernat wines. $75 Limited seating. 805 757-1435 or email Lindsey@BuySantaBarbaraWine.com

SATURDAY OCTOBER 13

11th Annual Santa Barbara Harbor & Seafood Festival 10am–5pm at 132-A Harbor Way Santa Barbara

Seafood lovers of all ages can go to the Harbor for delectable regional seafood specialties, cooking demonstrations, interactive maritime education, boat rides, live music and more. Free admission. 805 897-1962; HarborFestival.org

SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 29

SOL Food Festival

10am–6pm at Plaza Vera Cruz Park, 130 East Cota St. (across the street from the Santa Barbara Farmers Market)

A one-day community festival to celebrate farmers, chefs, businesses, organizations and individuals who are dedicated to a sustainable, organic, local food future. Free admission; 805 450-2357; SolFoodFestival.com.

THURSDAY OCTOBER 4

Maritime Tastings

5–7pm at the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum

Each Thursday evening in October beginning on the 4th will feature local seafood and a short talk by a local fisherman or cultivator and a demonstration by a local chef on how to prepare the item followed by a tasting. 805 962-8404; SBMM.org

FRIDAY OCTOBER 12

Santa Barbara’s Rare & Reserve Rhônes Farmers Market Tasting

3–6pm; Zaca Mesa Winery

Sample over 50 reserve and small production Syrahs, Viogniers and other locally grown Rhône varietal wines along with local artisan bakers, organic farmers and grass-fed beef ranchers. Limited tickets. $40–$50. RhoneRangers.org

SATURDAY & SUNDAY OCTOBER

13–14

21st Annual California

Lemon Festival

Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 10am–5pm at Girsch Park in Goleta

Food, fantastic family atmosphere and a variety of entertainment and activities have made this one of the most anticipated events in Goleta. Don’t miss the pieeating contests and the arts and crafts vendors. Free admission. 805 967-2500; LemonFestival.com

SUNDAY OCTOBER 14

Mangia del’ Arte

6pm at the Lobero Theatre, 33 East Canon Perdido St.

Mangia del’ Arte is that place in the imagination tickled by feats of gastronomic delight and artistry. This feast for the senses features captivating entertainment and premier local restaurant fare. This enchanting and exclusive benefit event supports Lobero Theatre. 805 963-0761; Lobero.com

SATURDAY OCTOBER 20

Santa Barbara Beer Festival

12–4pm at Elings Park, 1298 Las Positas Rd., Santa Barbara Micro-breweries, home brewed beer clubs, a selection of fine cigars, delicious food and live music. Proceeds go toward local nonprofits, Elings Park and the Santa Barbara Rugby Association (SBRA). Designated driver tickets available. 21 and up only. SBBeerFestival.com

SUNDAY OCTOBER 14

3rd Annual Taste of Hope

2–5pm at the Santa Barbara Historical Museum

Enjoy the bounty of the Central Coast. Over 30 vintners, breweries and gourmet food purveyors will provide delectable samplings. Live music and a silent auction. Proceeds benefit People’s Self-Help Housing. 805 966-1601; PSHHC.org

MONDAY

OCTOBER 15

Wine Tasting on the Rooftop

5:30–8pm at the Rooftop of the Canary Hotel

As part of Canary Hotel’s Wine Tasting on the Rooftop series on Monday nights, this will be the tasting finale celebration featuring all vendors with added light hors d’oeuvres. Tickets available at the event. 805 884-0300; CanarySantaBarbara.com

SATURDAY OCTOBER 25

Edible Santa Barbara Supper Club

6:30pm at Root 246, Solvang

The Supper Club brings together a small group of people for prix fixe dinners at one of the restaurants in our Dining Guide. Join us for a special Eat Local Challenge dinner at Root 246. For details and tickets visit the Events section on EdibleSantaBarbara.com.

SUNDAY NOVEMBER 4

Empty Bowls Santa Barbara

NOVEMBER

Three seatings: 11am, noon and 1pm, Rockwood Woman’s Club

A benefit for the Foodbank of Santa Barbara County, in an effort to make an immediate difference in our community, through the art of pottery and the power of people learning to feed each other. Get your tickets early. 805 967-5741; EmptyBowlsSantaBarbara.com

SUNDAY OCTOBER 14

Harvest Walk and Brunch

11am–2pm at Buttonwood Farm Winery in Solvang

Walk through the Buttonwood vineyard with winemaker Karen Steinwachs, tasting the wine from each varietal. Walk concludes with a brunch at the pond in the middle of the vineyard. Call 805 688-3032 for details. ButtonwoodWinery.com

THURSDAY OCTOBER 18

4th Annual Sensational Seafood

5:30–7:30pm at Stearns Wharf

Savor sustainability as you taste the wonderful variety of local seafood and watch expert chefs prepare it. Taste local wines and meet local fishermen and chefs who are leading the way to a more sustainable future. 805 682-4711; SBNature.org

SATURDAY OCTOBER 27

DIY Cheese Making Class

2–3pm at Whole Foods, 3761 State St., Santa Barbara

Get expert advice from our experienced cheesemongers. Includes easy and basic recipes for making fresh mozzarella from the comfort of your own home. Free DIY demonstration and cheese samples available for all participants. 805 837-6959; WholeFoods.com

SATURDAY NOVEMBER 10

Zaca Mesa Open House

11am–4pm at Zaca Mesa Winery Open house at Zaca Mesa Winery. Taste new fall releases, enjoy live music and sample gourmet specialties from local vendors. 805 688-9339; ZacaMesa.com

SATURDAY OCTOBER 20

Chef for a Day

At the Farmers Market and Coast Restaurant & Bar at the Canary Hotel Stroll the farmers market with the chef, picking out ingredients for that evening’s dinner. Reconvene for a cooking class using your fresh ingredients and finish with a four-course dinner with local wine pairings served on the restaurant’s terrace. Reservations required. 805 879-9100; CanarySantaBarbara.com

WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 31

Costume Contest

3–6pm at Here’s the Scoop on 1187 Coast Village Rd., Montecito Costume contest and seasonal treat “Worms & Dirt” gelato for kids in costume. Part of the “Ghost Village Road” Halloween events on Coast Village Road. 805 969-7020; SBScoop.com

Dining Guide edible

Santa Barbara County has its own unique food traditions—from Santa Maria barbecue to Santa Barbara spot prawns and the world-class local wines that accompany them—so we’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants that create the distinctively Santa Barbara dining experience. Restaurants are invited to advertise in this guide because of their emphasis on local, seasonal ingredients and their commitment to real food.

South County

Backyard Bowls

Santa Barbara Locations:

331 Motor Way

805 845-5379

3849 State St., La Cumbre (next to Vons) 805 569-0011

Goleta Location:

5668 Calle Real 805 770-2730

BackyardBowls.com

Santa Barbara’s most innovative breakfast and lunch spot featuring Acai Bowls and smoothies. They also offer oatmeal, yogurt, smoothies and more.

Bouchon

9 W. Victoria St.

Santa Barbara

805 730-1160

BouchonSantaBarbara.com

Bouchon sources all of its ingredients using an “asfresh-and-as-local-as-possible” approach. Experience fine dining, excellent regional wines and relaxed service in a warm, inviting ambience. Private dining in the Cork Room is available for groups of 10–20. Dinner nightly from 5–10pm.

Cadiz

509 State St.

Santa Barbara 805 770-2760

CadizSB.com

Cadiz is a Southern Mediterranean restaurant and lounge serving fresh ingredients bought from local farmers markets by Executive Chef John Pettitt.

Happy hour: Tues–Fri 5–7pm; dinner: Sun, Tues, Wed 5:30–9:30pm and Thur–Sat 5:30–10pm; late night dining: Thur–Sat 10pm–midnight.

Carlitos Café y Cantina

1324 State St.

Santa Barbara 805 962-7117

Carlitos.com

Enjoy fresh Mexican cuisine across from the historic Arlington Theatre on State Street in a sun-filled patio while the beautiful dining room features lovely views and a Cantina stocked with 100% Blue Agave tequilas. Member Santa Barbara Sustainable Seafood Program. Open daily 11am–10pm.

Cava Restaurant & Bar

1212 Coast Village Rd. Montecito 805 969-8500

CavaRestaurant.com

Experience the bold flavors of superb Latin cuisine from Spain, Mexico and South America in a romantic setting in Montecito. Member Santa Barbara Sustainable Seafood Program. Open daily 11am–11pm, Sunday brunch 10am–3pm.

Coast Restaurant

31 W. Carrillo St.

Santa Barbara 805 879-9100

CanarySantaBarbara.com

Coast Restaurant and Bar offers savory, accessible comfort food in the heart of downtown Santa Barbara at the Canary Hotel. The food at Coast reflects Santa Barbara’s plentiful bounty of local seafood and farmers market produce. Restaurant serving 7am–10pm daily. Bar open daily until midnight.

Fresco Café

Five Points

3987 B State St.

Santa Barbara; 805 967-6037

FrescoSB.com

Fresco Café offers freshly prepared food—emphasizing organic and natural ingredients and served in a warm atmosphere by friendly and welcoming staff.

Giannfranco’s Trattoria

666 Linden Ave.

Carpinteria 805 684-0720

Giannfrancos.com

Experience authentic Italian regional cuisine at this family-owned and -operated trattoria in downtown Carpinteria. Chef Giovanni prepares each dish from the freshest local and imported foods to offer his creative take on Tuscan grill specialties. Weekday lunch served 11am–3pm. Weekend lunch served noon–3pm. Dinner served 5–9pm. Closed Tuesday.

Goodland Kitchen & Market

231 S. Magnolia Ave.

Old Town Goleta 805 845-4300

GoodlandKitchen.com

The Goodland Market is a grab-and-go eatery in Old Town Goleta, specializing in delicious, locally sourced and affordable meals. They prepare food in small batches and utilize produce from local farmers to provide an exceptional culinary experience. Mon–Fri 8am–2:30pm.

Miró

Bacara Resort & Spa

8301 Hollister Ave.

Goleta 805 968-0100

BacaraResort.com

Miró offers extraordinary New American cuisine and an interior inspired by the Spanish artist Miró and breathtaking views of the Pacific. Chef de Cuisine David Garwacki’s dishes are accented with unique international flavors. Miró Wine Cellar houses an extensive collection of wines spanning 13 countries and 75 international appellations.

Pizza Guru

3534 State St.

Santa Barbara 805 563-3250

PizzaGuru.com

Locally owned and operated, Pizza Guru serves traditional and eccentric gourmet pizzas, salads, panini and pastas made fresh daily from locally sourced, organic ingredients. They also specialize in vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free pizzas. Open Mon–Thurs 11am–9:30pm, Fri–Sun 11am–10pm.

Renaud’s Patisserie & Bistro

Loreto Plaza at 3315 State St.

Santa Barbara 805 569-2400

Arlington Plaza at 1324 State St.

Santa Barbara 805 892-2800

RenaudsBakery.com

Renaud’s is a bakery specializing in French pastries and French-style cakes, as well as a bistro offering an extensive menu for lunch and dinner. Arlington location open daily 7am–3pm; Loreto Plaza open Mon–Sat 7am–5pm, Sunday 7am–3pm.

Seagrass

30 E. Ortega St.

Santa Barbara 805 963-1012

SeagrassRestaurant.com

Seagrass offers a fresh Santa Barbara Coastal Cuisine fine dining experience, procuring the highest quality ingredients available and superior local bounty.

Open Tues–Thu 5:30–9pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10pm; Sun 5:30–9pm.

Silvergreens

791 Chapala St.

Santa Barbara 805 962-8500

900 Embarcadero del Mar

Isla Vista 805 961-1700

Silvergreens.com

Committed to sustainability and nutrition, Silvergreens offers a made-from-scratch menu with soups, salads and sandwiches using fresh, local ingredients. They are also Santa Barbara’s first Certififed Green Restaurant. Catering and School Lunch Program available.

Sly’s

686 Linden Ave.

Carpinteria 805 684-6666

SlysOnline.com

Sly’s is known for great food, with an emphasis on farmers market and local produce, great cocktails and great times in Carpinteria. Open Mon-Fri for lunch 11:30am–3pm, lounge menu weekdays 3–5pm, dinner Sun–Thur 5–9pm, Fri and Sat 5–10pm and weekend brunch & lunch Sat–Sun 9am–3pm.

Sojourner Café

134 E. Cañon Perdido St.

Santa Barbara 805 965-7922

SojournerCafe.com

The Sojourner has been serving unique dishes created with wholesome natural ingredients for over 30 years. They purchase organic produce from local growers, carry local wines and beers and are known for their innovative desserts. Serving lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. Open Sun–Wed 11am–10pm, Thurs–Sat 11am–11pm.

The Bistro

Bacara Resort & Spa

8301 Hollister Ave.

Goleta 805 968-0100

BacaraResort.com

The Bistro offers a casual and relaxed oceanside atmosphere with Mediterranean fusion cuisine that can be enjoyed indoors or al fresco. The Bistro provides exquisite cuisine while still catering to families.

The Wine Cask

813 Anacapa St.

Santa Barbara 805 966-9463

WineCask.com

The Wine Cask Restaurant offers fine dining in their exquisite Gold Room and the Wine Cask Bar Café offers casual dining in the courtyard, patio or by their cozy fireplace. Sample some of the finest wines of Santa Barbara County in their tasting room. Restaurant nightly from 5:30pm; bar and café Mon–Fri 11am–3pm, Sat–Sun 4–10pm; Tasting Room daily noon–6pm.

santa barbara

North County

Avant Tapas & Wine

35 Industrial Way

Buellton

805 686-9400

AvantWines.com

Avant offers a selection of savory tapas, gourmet pizzas and desserts that are the perfect counterpoint to the over 30 wines available for tasting at their state-ofthe-art production facility. Open Mon, Thurs, and Sun 11am–8pm, Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

Bell Street Farm

Eatery & Market

406 Bell St.

Los Alamos 805 344-4609

BellStreetFarm.com

With farm-fresh cuisine and sophisticated yet comfortable design, Bell Street Farm offers a distinct environment to enjoy a meal, snack or a wine tasting. The market showcases picnic baskets and accessories for creating a portable meal, as well as gifts and merchandise from local artisans. Open Fri–Mon 10am–6pm.

Dos Carlitos Restaurant & Tequila Bar

3544 Sagunto St.

Santa Ynez

805 688-0033

DosCarlitosRestaurant.com

Dos Carlitos offers inspired Mexican and Latin cuisine handcrafted from the freshest ingredients to accompany its award-winning 100% Blue Agave margaritas. Dos Carlitos is a place to enjoy friends and family in a relaxed outdoor patio or casual indoor setting. Member Santa Barbara Sustainable Seafood Program. Open daily 11am–10pm.

Full of Life Flatbread

225 W. Bell St.

Los Alamos 805 344-4400

FullofLifeFoods.com

On weekends Full of Life Flatbread converts their production flatbread bakery space into a restaurant and offers an extremely innovative menu based almost entirely on what is grown locally and in season. Open Thu–Sat 5–10pm, Sunday 4–8pm.

Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café

2879 Grand Ave.

Los Olivos

805 688-7265

LosOlivosCafe.com

The Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café brings together the best flavors of the Central Coast. Their awardwinning wine list offers over 500 wines, primarily from Central Coast winemakers, to enjoy with their fresh, seasonal and local cuisine, or to enjoy at home. Open for lunch and dinner daily 11:30am–8:30pm.

Root 246

420 Alisal Rd.

Solvang

805 686-8681

Root-246.com

Root 246 in Solvang offers a full menu of farm-to-table creations and one of the most extensive selections of local wine. The contemporary yet comfortable setting includes a main dining room, a “chefs room” for private dining, two lounges and an outdoor patio. Wed–Sun: bar opens at 4pm with dinner at 5pm.

Succulent Café & Trading Company

1555 Mission Drive

Solvang 805 691-9444

SucculentCafe.com

Succulent Café is a family-owned business specializing in handcrafted and artisan culinary goods. Featuring buttermilk biscuit sandwiches at breakfast, gourmet sandwiches and salads at lunch and unique local-centric plates at dinner. Lunch Wed–Sun 11am–3pm; breakfast Sat–Sun 9am–2pm; dinner Thu–Sat 6–9pm.

The Hitching Post II

406 E. Highway 246

Buellton 805 688-0676

HitchingPost2.com

From Santa Maria–style barbecue to more contemporary cuisine such as smoked duck breast, ostrich, homemade soups and outstanding pastries, The Hitching Post II also offers their own world-class Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Wines. Open daily except major holidays. Cocktails/wine tasting Mon–Fri at 4pm, Sat–Sun at 3pm. Dinners only Mon–Fri 5–9:30pm, Sat–Sun 4–9:30pm.

SANTA BARBARA SUPPER

CLUB

The Supper Club brings together a small group of people for prix fixe dinners at one of the restaurants in this guide.

Our Next Supper Club

The Eat Local Challenge Dinner

• Thursday, October 25

• Root 246 in Solvang

Join us for an amazing locavore meal. For details, visit the Events section on EdibleSantaBarbara.com

edible Source Guide

The Edible Source Guide is a compact listing of all of our advertisers with a description of what they do and the details of their businesses. Please visit these advertisers to pick up your free copy of Edible Santa Barbara and let them know how much you appreciate their support of Edible Santa Barbara.

BREWERIES AND DISTILLERIES

Telegraph Brewing Company

Handcrafting unique American ales that embrace the heritage of California’s early brewing pioneers and use as many locally grown ingredients as possible. Visit the tasting room Thursday 4–6pm, Friday 4–8pm, Saturday 2–6pm. Telegraph beer is available at many restaurants and grocery stores in Santa Barbara County and throughout California. TelegraphBrewing.com

CATERERS AND CHEFS

New West Catering

Uniting the artistry of fine restaurant cuisine with the versatility of full-service catering, New West Catering is your unparalleled choice for special events in the Santa Barbara County wine country and beyond. 805 688-0991; NewWestCatering.com

Nimita’s Cuisine

Nimita Dhirajlal delights in sharing the art of Indian vegetarian cooking using organic, local ingredients. She offers classes, catering, weekly deliveries, as well as prepared foods such as curry, daal, chutney and raita. NimitasCuisine.com

COMMERCIAL KITCHEN SPACE

Goodland Kitchen

Goodland Kitchen, located in downtown Goleta, rents the use of its licensed and insured facility on an hourly basis to local food producers and re-packagers. It is also available as a teaching venue and for special event food processing. 805 845-4300; GoodlandKitchen.com

FARMERS MARKETS

Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market

Eight markets, six days a week. See schedule on the inside front cover. 805 962-5354; SBFarmersMarket.org

FARMS AND RANCHES

Drake Family Farms

Making locally produced farmstead artisan goat cheese in Ontario, California. At Drake Family Farms every goat has a name and their goat cheeses are made on the farm with milk exclusively from the farm’s own animals. Available at local farmers markets and at DrakeFamilyFarms.com

Fat Uncle Farms

Fat Uncle Farms grows almonds in Wasco, just northwest of Bakersfield, and they sell fresh whole raw almonds as well as roasted and flavored almonds and many other almond products at the Saturday, Tuesday, Friday and Thursday farmers markets. 866 290-0219; FatUncleFarms.wordpress.com

Rancho San Julian Beef

Rancho San Julian Beef produces high quality beef from cattle raised humanely and healthfully on an agriculturally sustainable ranch in Santa Barbara County. Available at

the following farmers markets: Saturday in Santa Barbara 8:30am–12:30pm, Tuesday in Santa Barbara 3–6:30pm and Friday in Montecito 8–11:30am as well as at RSJBeef.com

FOOD PRODUCTS

Full of Life Flatbread All Natural Pizza

Each of their frozen line of artisan flatbread pizzas is handmade by their bakers in small batches. Almost all of their ingredients are sourced local from growers and artisans, which reduces food-miles, helps the environment and ensures high quality. Available at grocery and natural food stores throughout the country. FullofLifeFoods.com

Green Star Coffee

Green Star Coffee sources only the finest Certified Organic Fair Trade coffees and teas from the premier growing regions around the world. GreenStarCoffee.com

Joëlle Olive Oil

Joëlle Olive Oil offers a full line of fresh, cold-pressed, extra-virgin olive oil estate grown in California. Award winning in international competitions, all of their oils are unfiltered, extra-virgin and date-stamped for year of production. JoelleOil.com

Niman Ranch

Niman Ranch produces the finest-tasting all-natural meats by raising livestock traditionally, humanely and sustainably on more than 650 U.S. family farms. NimanRanch.com

Simply Pies

Simply Pies specializes in delicious organic pies, potpies, quiches and cheesecakes that are handcrafted with fresh, local organic ingredients. Vegan, gluten free and sugar free options. Open Tuesday–Friday 7:30am–5:30pm; Saturday 10am–5:30pm. 5392 Hollister Ave., Santa Barbara. 805 845-2200; Email: orders@simplypiessb.com; SimplyPiesSB.com

Vibrant Earth Juices

Vibrant Earth Juices are liquid nutrition from the ground up. Offering freshly pressed, raw, organic juices and juice cleanses. Please visit their newly opened juice bar inside Plow to Porch. VibrantEarthJuices.com

GROCERY STORES & PRODUCE DELIVERY

Isla Vista Food Co-op

A community-owned food co-op open to the public and highly regarded for its sustainable business practices and high-quality foods. Highlighting tri-county local, organic, fair-trade, farmer-owned, vegan, vegetarian, kosher, raw, gluten-free and all-around sustainable ways of being. Open daily 8am–10pm. 6575 Seville Rd., Isla Vista. 805 968-1401; IslaVistaFood.coop

Lazy Acres

Santa Barbara’s best source for wholesome, natural and organic foods and products with real people dedicated to providing unmatched personal service. Monday–Saturday, 7am–11pm, Sunday 7am–10pm. 302 Meigs Rd., Santa Barbara; 805 564-4410; LazyAcres.com

Tecolote Book Shop

Since 1925

1470 eaSt Valley rOad upper VillaGe Of MOntecitO 805 969-4977

De Su Propia Cosecha Winery and Tasting Room

Now Open Fri–Sun: 11am–5pm

The Newest Tasting Room in the Lompoc Wine Ghetto 1501 E Chestnut Ct. Suite A “of one’s own harvest”

For more info contact Deanna at 805-345-9355

Mention this ad and get 2 for 1 tasting

GROCERY STORES & PRODUCE DELIVERY

Continued from page 61

Los Olivos Grocery

Los Olivos Grocery offers a wide selection of local products, wines, beers and produce. Their delicatessen is a valley favorite, with a wide lunch menu. Breakfast is served on their enclosed patio. Friday, Saturday and Sunday, BBQ is offered. Open daily 7am–9pm; 2621 W. Highway 154, Santa Ynez; 805 688-5115; LosOlivosGrocery.com

New Frontiers Natural Marketplace

New Frontiers Natural Marketplace is a full service natural foods grocery store and deli. Located in Solvang at 1984 Old Mission Dr. (corner of Alamo Pintado and Mission Dr.); 805 693-1746; NewFrontiersMarket.com

Pacific Health Foods

Offering organic groceries, vitamins, a helpful staff and the best smoothies in town. Open Monday–Friday 9am–6pm; Saturday 10am–6pm. Located at 944 Linden Ave., Carpinteria; 805 684-2115; PacificHealthFood.com

Plow to Porch Organics

Local organic/pesticide free/chemical free and all natural produce delivery service and organic market. The market carries a wide array of seasonal and local produce, meat and food products and is located at 3204 State St., Santa Barbara. Open Monday–Friday 10am–7pm. 805 895-7171; PlowToPorch.com

Whole Foods Market

Founded in 1980 in Austin, Texas, Whole Foods Market, a leader in the natural and organic foods industry and America’s first national certified organic grocer, was named “America’s Healthiest Grocery Store” in 2008 by Health magazine. 3761 State St., Santa Barbara; 805 837-6959; WholeFoodsMarket.com

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

American Riviera Bank

Offering a local and sustainable approach to banking. The founders of American Riviera Bank are a carefully selected group of successful, prominent, experienced and influential community and business leaders who understand the unique needs of the Santa Barbara community. Monday–Thursday 8am–5pm, Friday 8am–6pm. 1033 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara; 805 965-5942. AmericanRivieraBank.com

Center for Sustainable Medicine

Specializing in nutrition, allergies, weight management, women’s health and preventative medicine. Dr. Andrea Seiffertt, DO, o steopathic physician, Board Certified in Internal Medicine, Certified Ayurvedic Practitioner. 805 245-4291; OnePlanetOneHealth.com

Nest

Nest is an integrative medicine spa combining the best of conventional and natural therapies. Dr. Kristi Wrightson ND, RD along with her staff of professionals offer services from preventative primary care to anti-aging treatments, specializing in women's health and hormones, optimal weight control and detoxification. 523 Chapala St., #2, Santa Barbara; 805 770-2607

Rabobank

Rabobank is a valued financial partner for thousands of individuals, businesses, farmers and ranchers, food and agribusiness companies and other select institutions in many California communities, meeting the financial needs of local families, businesses and organizations with great banking products and personalized service. RabobankAmerica.com

RESTAURANTS

See our Edible Dining Guide on page 58.

SCHOOLS

Santa Barbara Montessori School

The main objective of the SB Montessori School is to provide a carefully planned, stimulating environment to help children develop the habits, attitudes and skills essential for a lifetime of creative thinking and learning. 7421 Mirano Dr; 805 685-7600; SBMontessori.com

SPECIALTY RETAILERS & PRODUCTS

Chocolate Maya

Chocolate Maya scours the world for pure, luscious chocolates and offers incredible savory bars, truffles, bonbons and gift baskets as well as a wide choice of organic and fair trade chocolate products. Monday–Friday 10am–6pm, Saturday 10am–5pm, Sunday 10am–4pm. 15 W. Gutierrez St., Santa Barbara. 805 965-5956; ChocolateMaya.com

C’est Cheese

Your local source for the finest cheeses and artisanal foods. In addition to cheese, they offer a host of gourmet foods such as salamis, fine cured hams, olive oils and vinegars, wines, handmade chocolates, catering services, gift baskets and picnic coolers. Monday–Friday 10am–6pm. Saturday 8am–6pm. Closed Sundays. 825 Santa Barbara St., Santa Barbara. 805 965-0318; CestCheese.com

Garlic Gold

USDA certified organic, artisanal, gourmet line of handcrafted garlic condiments including oils, vinaigrettes and seasonings. Products sold at a variety of fine grocers and markets. 800 695-7673; GarlicGold.com

Grapeseed Company

The Grapeseed Company creates botanical spa and skin care products handcrafted from the byproduct of wine plus antioxidant-rich local and organic ingredients. Flagship store in downtown Santa Barbara: 201 W. Carrillo St.: open Monday–Saturday 10:30am–5:30pm. Warehouse store in Carpinteria: 4193 Carpinteria Ave #9: open Monday and Thursday–Saturday 10:30am–5:30pm. 805 456-3655; TheGrapeseedCompany.com

Herban Essentials

Herban Essentials uses the highest-quality, 100% pure, therapeutic-grade, steam-distilled or cold-pressed essential oils to make their line of essential oil towelettes, available in Orange, Lemon, Lavender, Peppermint, Eucalyptus, Pet and Yoga. HerbanEssentials.com

Here’s the Scoop

Here’s the Scoop offers the finest gelato and sorbet made fresh daily from local farms and farmers market fruit. They specialize in seasonal flavors as well as traditional Italian flavors. Monday–Thursday 1–9pm. Friday–Saturday 12–10pm and Sun 12–9pm. 1187 Coast Village Rd., Montecito. 805 969-7020; ScoopSB.com

Olive Hill Farm

Gus Sousoures has been making his olive oils for many years in the Santa Ynez Valley and now you can taste and buy them, along with other oils, vinegars and gourmet food products at his cozy store in Los Olivos. Open daily 11am–5:30pm. 2901 Grand Ave, Los Olivos; 805 693-0700; OliveHillFarm.com

Tecolote Bookstore

Tecolote Bookstore is an independent bookstore located in the upper village of Montecito at 1470 East Valley Rd..

Open Monday–Friday 10am–5:30pm, Saturday 10am5pm, closed Sundays. 805 969-4977

Gift WrappinG • ShippinG • Special OrderS BOOk SearcheS • authOr appearanceS

WINERIES AND WINE RETAILERS

Alma Rosa

With certified organic vineyards in the Sta. Rita Hills, Alma Rosa focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as other food friendly wines with the high acid and extraordinary balance for which Richard Sanford’s wines have been known since 1976. Open 11am–4:30pm daily. 7250 Santa Rosa Rd., Buellton. 805 688-9090; AlmaRosaWinery.com

Au Bon Climat Tasting Room and the Jim Clendenen Wine Library

Celebrating 30 years of winemaking in Santa Barbara County, Au Bon Climat is world renowned for beautifully balanced and elegant Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The tasting room features a large selections of cellar aged library wines and Jim Clendenen’s eclectic smaller labels. Open daily noon–6pm; 813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, next to the Wine Cask. 805 845-8435; AuBonClimat.com

Avant Tapas and Wine

Avant Tapas and Wine is the tasting room for over 30 vintners producing their wine at the Terravant Wine Company’s state-of-the-art production facility. Open for tasting Monday, Thursday and Sunday 11am–9pm, Friday–Saturday 11am–11pm. 35 Industrial Way, Buellton. 805 686-9400; AvantWines.com

BiN 2860 International Wine Shop

With both local and international wines available, BiN 2860 at Fess Parker Wine Country Inn & Spa has one of the best wine selections in the Santa Ynez Valley. 2860 Grand Ave., Los Olivos. 800 446-2455, 805 688-7788; Bin2860.com

Buttonwood Farm Winery

In 1968 Betty Williams came to Buttonwood, creating a life that found expression through a connection with the land. The vineyard now has 33,000 vines with a mix of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Marsanne, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Visit the tasting room at 1500 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang. Open 11am–5pm daily. 805 688-3032; ButtonwoodWinery.com

Cambria Estate Winery

Farming for over 25 years, Cambria specializes in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. They are committed to sustainable practices in both the vineyard and in the winery. Visit the tasting room 10am–5pm. 5475 Chardonnay Lane, Santa Maria; 805 938-7318; CambriaWines.com

Casa Dumetz

Making wine from their organic vineyard in Malibu and from the Tierra Alta vineyard in Santa Ynez. Visit Babi’s tasting room Thursday noon–7pm, Friday–Saturday 11am–7pm, Sunday 11am–6pm or by appointment. 448 Bell St., Los Alamos. 805 344-1900; CasaDumetzWines.com

De Su Propia Cosecha

De Su Propia Cosecha, which means ‘of one’s own harvest,’ has opened a tasting room at the Lompoc Wine Ghetto at 1501 E. Chestnut St., Suite A. Open Friday–Sunday 11am–5pm. 805 345-9355; DeSuPropiaCosecha.com

Foxen Winery & Vineyard

Bill Wathen and Dick Doré have been making wine together since 1985, when they founded Foxen Winery & Vineyard at the historic Rancho Tinaquaic in northern Santa Barbara County. Visit the two tasting rooms at 7200 and 7600 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria. Open daily 11am–4pm. 805 937-4251; FoxenVineyard.com

Longoria Wines

Longoria Wines is a small family owned winery producing acclaimed artisanal wines from some of the finest vineyards in Santa Barbara County. Visit their tasting room in Los Olivos at 2935 Grand Ave., daily 11am–4:30pm or in the Lompoc Wine Ghetto at 1700 Industrial Way, unit A, Saturday and Sunday 11am–4:30pm. 805 688-0305; LongoriaWine.com

Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Cafe

The Wine Merchant specializes in premium California wines with a focus on highlighting the Central Coast. They feature Bernat Wines, which are estate grown and made by owner Sam Marmorstein. In addition they carry a line of signature gourmet products. Open daily 11:30am–8:30pm. 2879 Grand Ave., Los Olivos. 805 688-7265; LosOlivosCafe.com

Moretti Wines

Moretti Wines produces well-balanced, food-friendly wines in the European tradition. Antonio and Jeni Moretti welcome you to taste their soulful creations, expertly crafted by Steve Clifton. Tastings include samples of specialty foods. Thursday–Sunday, 11am–5pm. In the Lompoc Wine Ghetto at 1505 E. Chestnut Ave., Suite C, Lompoc. 805 735-4400; MorettiWines.com.

Qupé

For 30 years, Qupé has been dedicated to producing handcrafted Rhône varietals and Chardonnay from California’s Central Coast. Employing traditional winemaking techniques and biodynamic farming practices, Qupe’s wines are true to type and speak of their vineyard sources. Tasting room is open daily 11am–5pm. 2963 Grand Ave., Suite B, Los Olivos; 805 686-4200; Qupe.com

Riverbench Vineyard & Winery

Since 1973 Riverbench has produced some of Santa Barbara County’s finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. With their initial harvest in 2006, they have now begun producing their own wines with winemaker Chuck Ortman. Tasting room is open 10am–4pm daily. 6020 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria. 805 937-8340; Riverbench.com

The Good Life

A craft beer and wine cellar featuring California craft beers and central coast wines. Open daily Sunday–Wednesday 12–9pm, Thursday–Saturday 12–11pm. 1672 Mission Dr. (Hwy 246) Solvang. TheGoodLifeCellar.com

The Hitching Post II

The Hitching Post II offers their own world-class Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Wines. Open daily except major holidays. Cocktails/wine tasting at 4pm, dinners only 5–9:30pm. 406 E. Highway 246, Buellton. 805 688-0676; HitchingPost2.com

The Winehound

The award-winning Winehound features the world’s best wines—from the everyday to a luxury cuvée—all top dogs, no mutts. Open 11am–7pm Monday through Saturday, noon–6pm Sunday. 1221 Chapala St., Santa Barbara. 805 845-5247; TheWinehound.com

Wine Cask Tasting Room

Wine Cask partner Doug Margerum has brought his wines to downtown Santa Barbara, including his Margerum Wine Company wines, Happy Canyon Vineyards wines and Cimarone/Three Creek Vineyards and CENT ’ANNI, as well as a selection of imported wines. Wine tasting is available from noon to 6pm every day. 813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara; 805 966-9463; MargerumWineCompany.com

Zaca Mesa Winery & Vineyards

Zaca Mesa is a Santa Ynez Valley estate winery dedicated to Rhone varieties. Since 1972, they have handcrafted wines from grapes grown in their vineyards to express their distinct character and genuine quality. Open daily 10am–4pm. 6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos. 805 688-9339 ext. 308; ZacaMesa.com

You can find this source guide online at EdibleSantaBarbara.com. Please visit these advertisers to pick up your free copy of Edible Santa Barbara and let them know how much you appreciate their support.

THE LAST BITE

Buttonwood Farm & Winery

All-Farm Dinner

PHOTOGRAPHY BY NELL CAMPBELL

There’s eating local, and then there’s feasting local. A few years back—before locavore was a common word—

Jeff Olsson from New West Catering was instrumental in developing the concept of this farm-to-vineyard-to-table dinner. Everything on the menu is grown or raised on the Buttonwood Farm—farmraised pork and lamb, goat cheese, vegetables, peaches and, of course, wine. This year photographer Nell Campbell was on hand to document and partake in this amazing event, so that we could all feast our eyes on what is possible when you go local.

Clockwise from top left: Lamb and feta sausage with rosemary; wines of the evening; slow-roasted porchetta with garlic, sage, shallot and jalapeño; chocolate-dipped peach ice cream sandwich and caramelized peach tart and bittersweet chocolate ganache; heirloom tomatoes, peaches and basil with cucumber and cilantro.

Jeff Olsson of New West Catering puts the finishing touches on the Crispy Pig Head with Garlic Aioli appetizer.

The annual Buttonwood All-Farm Dinner was held this year on Saturday, August 4.

STEPHANIE MUTZ, FISHERMAN AND URCHIN DIVER

Commercial Fishermen of Santa Barbara

Cambria Estate Winery is a proud supporter of local purveyors such as Commercial Fishermen of Santa Barbara. Fisherman and Urchin Diver (and President of CFSB), Stephanie Mutz, wants to change the way Californians consume seafood by focusing on locally-caught species such as spiny lobster, rock crab and sea urchin. She promotes fresh seafood to the regional coastal community.

As a Certified Sustainable winery, Cambria partners with others in the community to promote organic and sustainable farming. cambriawines.com

Cambria Winery, Santa Maria, CA