Edible Santa Barbara Fall 2013

edible

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

We’re boasting the

Foragers Pantry

Enjoy Cupcakes

Flagstone Pantry

The Pasta Shoppe

il Fustino, Oils and Vinegars

Rori’s Artisanal Creamery

JuiceWell

The Kitchen

Wine + Beer

Green Star Coffee

Belcampo Meat Co.

Crazy Good Bread Co.

Adding to our stellar lineup of artisanal purveyors, we’re pleased to welcome

Full of Life Flatbread

who will be part of The Alma del Pueblo community, adjacent to the Market. This local gem will offer seasonal fare in a warm and inviting atmosphere using, of course, the best local and sustainable ingredients.

SANTABARBA RA

STEVEN

FOOD THOUGHTD

It may be a little hard to explain why this issue is the Eat Drink Local issue. We cover eating and drinking local in every issue, don’t we? It’s part of our mission.

But we coined this expression last fall to tie into our yearly Eat Local Challenge. And there is something about fall that makes us want to celebrate the bounty of our local food offerings—to give a shout out to the farmers and food artisans who keep surprising us with new products.

This year we will be sponsoring our fifth Eat Local Challenge for the month of October, and we are pleased to announce the addition of the Foodbank of Santa Barbara County to our partners, the Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market and the Community Environmental Council. What started out as more of a personal challenge that I wanted to share with our readers, has begun to take hold as a community-supported event.

I think that is what particularly appeals to me about doing this Eat Local Challenge. It’s a personal challenge—you make your own choices about just how far you want to take it. But you can also tap into the community that is doing the challenge right along with you. Can’t find local grains? Ask a question on the Facebook group. You’ll get answers. I just recently learned about a farm in Lompoc that is growing and selling green tea. That should make the challenge a little easier this year for me.

It’s the hunt for new local ingredients that is part of the fun. I don’t really think about what I’m giving up or what I can’t have during the month of October. Instead I see it as an opportunity to try new things. Maybe this is the year I’ll finally try making my own yogurt. I hope you try some new things this fall, too. In whatever way you participate or follow the progress of the Eat Local Challenge, there is an opportunity to appreciate what we have in Santa Barbara County.

As Thanksgiving approaches it seems like just the right time to be grateful to those who contribute to putting food on our plates and beverages in the glasses that we lift in a toast. To the farmers, ranchers, fishermen, food artisans, chefs, winemakers, brewers and bakers, thank you. This issue is dedicated to your efforts.

of the Year

PUBLISHERS

Steven Brown & Krista Harris

EDITOR

Krista Harris

RECIPE EDITOR

Nancy Oster

COPY EDITOR

Doug Adrianson

DESIGNER

Steven Brown

OPERATIONS

David Browne

INTERN

Leanne Sturman

Contributors

Pascale Beale

Joan S. Bolton

Jeanine Brandi

Fran Collin

Leela Cyd

Erin Feinblatt

Rachel Hommel

Scott O’Bar

Nancy Oster

Laura Sanchez

Carole Topalian

Louis Villard

George Yatchisin Contact Us info@ediblesantabarbara.com

Advertising Inquiries ads@ediblesantabarbara.com

Krista Harris, Editor

Stay Connected

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Edible Santa Barbara® is published quarterly and distributed throughout Santa Barbara County. Subscription rate is $28 annually. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Publisher expressly disclaims all liability for any occurrence that may arise as a consequence of the use of any information or recipes. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you. © 2013 edible Santa Barbara

Notables edible

Exotic Yet Local

Sama Sama Kitchen

Indonesian fusion cuisine has made its mark on Santa Barbara in the form of Sama Sama Kitchen, which serves a refreshing tapas-style menu featuring fresh, locally sourced ingredients and specialty cocktails. They have a full bar for indoor dining. The culinary team sources an extraordinary amount of their food locally, yet the flavors are as exotic as a trip to the Far East. Try the tempe tacos and gado gado salad. Or if you can’t decide what to order, go with the chef’s selection of five or six items. Sitting outside in their spacious back patio during Sunday brunch is highly recommend—ideally accompanied by their pork belly hash.

Sama Sama is open Mon–Fri 4–10pm, Sat 11am–3pm and 4–11pm, Sun 11am–3pm. They are located at 1208 State St., Santa Barbara; SamaSamaKitchen.com

New Digs

Casa Dumetz and Global Gardens

Yet another reason to visit or live in Los Alamos… Casa Dumetz has moved up the street to open a bigger tasting room adjoining Global Gardens, recently relocated from Los Olivos. Winemaker Sonja Magdevski will feature her Casa Dumetz wines at the new tasting room and the original spot will feature local small-production wines and craft beers as Babi’s Tasting Room. Meanwhile, next to Casa Dumetz, Global Gardens has opened a combination retail shop, olive oil and vinegar tasting room as well as a café, serving owner Theo Stephan’s unique, locally infused “Caliterranean” cuisine.

Casa Dumetz is open Thu noon–7pm, Fri–Sat 11am–7pm, Sun 11am–5pm or by appointment at 388 Bell St., Los Alamos. CasaDumetzWines.com

Global Gardens is open daily 11am–5pm at 380 Bell St., Los Alamos. GlobalGardensOnline.com

Local, Artisanal Cow’s Milk Cheese

The Santa Barbara Cheese Company

There is no need to deny yourself cheese when you’re participating in the Eat Local Challenge this October. The Santa Barbara Cheese Company has a complete line of cheese including white cheddar, blue cheese, jack cheese, gouda-style, mozzarella and queso fresco. Owner Sara Hoekstra makes the cheese from the milk from her family’s dairy in Cuyama. The cows are never treated with hormones and are fed mostly organic and grass feeds. Try their blue cheese in this issue’s recipe for Cauliflower Soup with Stilton and Caramelized Pear Chutney.

You can find their cheese at the Santa Barbara Farmers Market on Friday in Montecito, as well as at Isabella Gourmet Foods, TriCounty Produce and Mesa Produce. You can also order cheese online at TSBCC.com

STEVEN BROWN

A Local Distillery

Cutler’s Artisan Spirits

You didn’t think you were going to have to give up cocktails and spirits when you took on the Eat Local Challenge, did you? The good news is that small-scale craft distilleries are popping up in our area and we couldn’t be more impressed with what Ian Cutler of Cutler’s Artisan Spirits is doing right here in Santa Barbara. His current production includes Cutler’s Vodka, a GMO-free corn based vodka; 33 Straight Bourbon Whiskey, a 6-year-old blended whiskey and Grandma Tommie’s Apple Pie Liqueur, based on vodka with a blend of fresh apple juice and spices that will knock your fleece booties off.

vertical TASTING

Olivos Del Mar Organic Olives

Sometimes it’s almost too easy to eat local in Santa Barbara County. In most parts of the world you would not be able to source olive oil and olives locally, but we have those products in abundance. After trying the lineup of olives from Olivos Del Mar, you may never need to pick up a jar of imported olives again. What’s more, they’re certified organic and the familyowned company has roots that go back more than 10 generations in Santa Barbara.

For use in cooking or as a drink garnish, you’ll want to pit these olives. Here’s a tip: Just crush the olive with the side of a chef’s knife and slip the pit out.

Lemon Citrus Olives

Cutler’s Artisan Spirits is open Thu–Sun 1–6pm for tastings and information. They cannot sell the products at their tasting room, but you can find them at a number of local retailers. 805 845-4040; CutlersArtisan.com

Digging In

Demo Garden at Goleta Water District

The Edible Landscape is the newest section of a demonstration garden located at the Goleta Water District headquarters (4699 Hollister Ave.). It features water-wise edible plants and trees, sustainable drainage and rain catchment techniques and permaculture principles on a site resembling a singlefamily residential front yard. The goal of the garden is to model water-efficient edible landscaping ideas that can be implemented by customers at their own homes. The lowmaintenance plants and trees featured in the edible garden are easy to grow and well suited for our climate. They include pomegranate, pear, apple, apricot and avocado trees; herbs, artichokes, grapes, blueberries, medicinal aloe and more. For more information, visit GoletaWater.com

These are bright, green, crisp and crunchy olives with a fresh taste. The lemon flavor reminds us of Moroccan preserved lemons, and these would make a great addition to a vegetable tagine. Pair these with a nice strong cheese on an appetizer tray.

Country Herb Olives

The herb blend has an Italian zest to it and a nice touch of oregano. The saltier nature of these olives cries out for topping pizza and pasta or pairing with tomatoes. We could also see noshing on these olives while drinking a crisp local brew.

Hot Pepper Olives

These are the perfect Bloody Mary olive. Pit them and put them in the drink or serve them alongside by the bowlful. They are not overly spicy, but instead have a nice balance of heat and flavor, reminiscent of peperoncini. They would also liven up a salad.

Honey Balsamic Black Olives

Rich, dark and intense with a touch of sweetness and subtle notes of a French-roast coffee—it’s hard to believe we’re talking about an olive. But this is no ordinary black olive. This is a dessert olive. Try it on a dessert cheese board with a little local honey for drizzling.

Olivos Del Mar also makes olive oil and other olive products. You can find their olives at many area natural foods, grocery and specialty stores and farmers markets, and products can be ordered on their website. 805 685-2076; OlivosDelMar.com

Season this fall in

Fall Produce

Artichokes

Asparagus

Avocados

Basil

Beans, green

Blackberries

Blueberries

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Cantaloupe

Celery

Cherimoya

Chiles

Chives

Cilantro

Collards

Corn

Year Round Produce

Cucumber

Dill

Eggplant

Fennel

Figs

Grapefruit

Grapes

Kiwi

Lavender

Limes

Melons

Mint

Mustard greens

Nectarines

Almonds, almond butter (harvested Aug/Sept)

Apples

Arugula

Beans, dried

Beets

Bok choy

Broccoli

Carrots

Cauliflower

Chard

Dandelion

Dates (harvested Sept/Oct)

Garlic (harvested May/June)

Herbs

Onions, green bunching

Peaches

Peppers

Persimmon

Plums/Pluots

Pomegranate

Raspberries

Squash, summer

Strawberries

Tangerines/Mandarins

Tomatillo

Tomatoes

Turnips

Watermelon

(Bay leaf, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme)

Edible flowers

Kale

Leeks

Lemons

Lettuce

Mushrooms

Onions, bulb (harvested May/June)

Oranges

Pistachios, pistachio oil (harvested Sept/Oct)

Potatoes

Radish

Raisins

(harvested Sept/Oct)

Spinach

Sprouts

Squash, winter (harvested July/Oct)

Walnuts, walnut oil (harvested Sept/Oct)

Yams

(harvested Aug/Sept)

Fall Seafood

Mussels

Ridgeback shrimp

Rock fish

Sardines

Spiny lobster

Swordfish

White seabass

Yellowtail

Year Round Seafood

Abalone (farmed)

Black cod

Clams

Oysters

Rock crab

Sanddabs

Urchin

Other Year-Round

Eggs

Coffee

Dairy

(Regional raw milk, artisanal goat- and cow-milk cheeses, butters, curds, yogurts and spreads)

Fresh flowers

Honey

Olives, olive oil

Meat

(Beef, chicken, duck, goat, rabbit, pork)

Potted plants/herbs

Preserves

Wheat

(Wheat berries, wheat flour, bread, pasta, pies produced from wheat grown locally)

seasonal Recipes

Making It Local

BEGINNER

Use local produce—green onions, spinach and pomegranate.

EXPERIENCED LOCAVORE

Buy the other main ingredients at the farmers market or local specialty shop—local wheat berries, almonds, olive oil, vinegar, goat cheese.

ULTIMATE LOCAVORE

Make your own sea salt from local seawater and harvest pink peppercorns from local pepper trees.

Wheat Berry Salad

This is inspired by a wheat berry salad in Heidi Swanson’s book Super Natural Cooking, and by the fact that we can now find local wheat berries at the farmers market from Shepherd Farms. Wheat berries are the entire wheat kernel minus the hull. It’s what you can use to mill and make your own wheat flour. Or you can use the whole grains as a substitute in dishes that call for rice or quinoa.

Soaking the grains can help make them easier to digest and shorten the cooking time, but you can also skip the soaking and cook them about 10 minutes longer.

Makes 6–8 servings

2 tablespoons whey, yogurt or fresh lemon juice (optional)

2 cups wheat berries

Sea salt

1 pomegranate

1 ⁄4 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons wine vinegar

Pepper

2–3 green onions, finely chopped, tough green ends trimmed away

1 bunch or bag of spinach, sliced into chiffonade or ribbon-like strips

1 ⁄4 cup sliced almonds

2–3 ounces goat cheese, such as chevre or feta

Soak the wheat berries in enough water to cover them. Add the whey, yogurt or lemon juice and let sit for 12–24 hours. Drain and rinse.

Bring about 6 cups of water to boil in a medium-sized saucepan over high heat. Add the wheat berries and a couple teaspoons of salt. Lower the heat, cover the pan and simmer for about an hour, or until the wheat berries are tender and chewy. Drain the wheat berries. While the wheat berries are cooking, cut and de-seed the pomegranate by cutting partway through the top and then prying open the fruit over a bowl to catch the seeds. Separate and discard the white membrane, then set aside the seeds.

In a large bowl whisk together the olive oil and vinegar and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the still-warm wheat berries, the green onions, spinach, almonds and reserved pomegranate seeds. Stir to combine all the ingredients evenly and to wilt the spinach. Taste and add additional sea salt and a little more vinegar if needed. Then crumble the goat cheese on top with a little more freshly ground pepper and serve at room temperature or slightly chilled.

seasonal Recipes

Sautéed Apples

This is a dessert that has the best part of apple pie—the filling. It’s simple, easy to make and with the addition of Grandma Tommie’s Apple Pie Liqueur by Cutler’s Artisan Spirits, it’s entirely local. Make it nondairy by using olive oil and serving with a scoop of apple sorbet.

Makes 2–4 servings

4 medium apples

3 tablespoons butter or olive oil

2–3 tablespoons honey, depending on the sweetness of your apples

1 ⁄ 2 cup Apple Pie Liqueur

SUGGESTED TOPPINGS

Ice cream, gelato, sorbet, crème fraîche, yogurt or heavy cream

Peel and core the apples, cutting them in quarters and then in smaller slices. Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat and add the butter. Add the apple slices and sauté them for about 5–10 minutes, or until they are tender and translucent. Add the honey and distribute to coat the apples. Taste one of the apples to make sure it is tender and sweet, continue cooking or add additional honey if needed.

Remove the pan from the heat and add the liqueur. Then return the pan to low heat and simmer for a few minutes to cook the alcohol off and infuse the apples with the liqueur. Taste one of the apples to see if it needs additional cooking time. You want the apples to be cooked completely, golden and slightly caramelized. Serve in bowls with one of the following suggested toppings: a scoop of vanilla ice cream or gelato, a scoop of apple sorbet, a dollop of crème fraîche or yogurt or a drizzle of heavy cream. You can also dust the top with a sprinkling of cinnamon.

SATURDAYS

Downtown Santa Barbara

Corner of Santa Barbara & Cota Street

8:30am – 1:00pm

TUESDAYS

Old Town Santa Barbara

500 & 600 Blocks of State Street

4:00pm – 7:30pm 3:00pm – 6:30pm (Beginning Nov 3)

THURSDAYS

Camino Real Marketplace

In Goleta at Storke & Hollister

3:00pm – 6:00pm Carpinteria 800 Block of Linden Avenue

3:00pm – 6:30pm

SUNDAYS

Camino Real Marketplace

In Goleta at Storke & Hollister 10:00am – 2:00pm

WEDNESDAYS

Solvang Village Copenhagen Drive & 1st Street

2:30pm – 6:30pm 2:30pm – 6:00pm (Beginning Nov 3)

FRIDAYS

Montecito

100 & 1200 Block of Coast Village Road 8:00am – 11:15am

3:00pm – 6:00pm (Beginning Nov 3) facebook.com/SBFarmersMarket

Your Guide to Eating Local

The Eat Local Challenge and Beyond

by Krista Harris

Edible Santa Barbara is partnering with the Community Environmental Council, the Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market and the Santa Barbara County Foodbank to sponsor an Eat Local Challenge for the month of October. Now in its fifth year, the Challenge encourages people to take a personal pledge to eat and drink local products October 1–31.

You can choose to eat only foods produced within a 100-mile or 150-mile radius of your home, or within the tri-county region, or within California. You can also decide if you are going to make any exceptions (such as coffee, tea or spices), but the idea is to try to stay as local as possible.

The challenge is a great way to encourage you to think about where your food comes from and to perhaps change the way you shop and the food you buy.

If you are participating in the Eat Local Challenge—and even if you’re not—now is a great time to seek out new local food products and to experience the wide variety of local produce that our area has to offer. We have such a great abundance of local food in Santa Barbara County, it really seems a shame not to take advantage of it.

Fall is a great season to focus on buying more local produce. Many summer fruits and vegetables are still available and the cool-season produce is starting to come in as well. Whether you get hooked on shopping at the farmers market or you start seeking out local produce at the grocery store, co-op or farm stand, here are some tips to help you transition to a more local way of eating.

1 Think Seasonally

It’s fall, so don’t spend your time looking for apricots, shelling peas or fava beans. Check our “In Season” list to find out what you are likely to see in the market. Or pick up the new Southern California Food Wheel, which lists what foods are in season throughout the year.

Be sure to take advantage of when things are at their peak. You may be able to find citrus year round, but many varieties are at their peak in winter and spring, so right now focus on getting perfectly ripe fall fruits like pomegranates, persimmons, grapes and apples. When you buy things that are in the middle or peak of their season, the quality and the

The Southern California Local Food Wheel

Edible Santa Barbara CHA LLENGE

prices are better. When lots of vendors have tomatoes, you know it’s a good time to buy a flat and make tomato sauce. Even fresh flowers and potted plants have their seasons. Look for sunflowers, dahlias and chrysanthemums among others this fall.

2 Step Out of Your Comfort Zone

them for dessert with a little raw whipped cream?

You don’t always have to follow a recipe verbatim. If a recipe calls for shallots, you can substitute onions, garlic or leeks. If you can’t find local rice, try substituting local wheat berries.

Kabocha Squash

At the grocery store you might tend to buy the same carrots, celery and broccoli every week, and even long-time farmers market shoppers get into ruts with what they buy. But the beauty of shopping at our markets is their diversity. Try kabocha squash, persimmons and cranberry beans. If you’re not sure how to prepare something, ask the vendor or other customers that you see buying it. And you can always Google it when you get home. Also, the farmers market isn’t just for produce anymore. Try local meats and poultry, grass-fed beef, seafood, olive oil, nuts, raw milk, cheeses and butter, and all sorts of jams, preserves and bread and pasta made from local wheat. You can even find local convenience foods—jars of tomato sauce, salsa and peanut butter. These tend to be a bit more expensive, but the quality is superior to their massproduced counterparts. During the Eat Local Challenge, you may find yourself giving up a lot of prepared foods, processed food and convenience foods, so you’ll save money in that area. And then you can pick up some locally made, delicious, artisanal food products that will make your life easier.

Some grocery stores identify local products with a special label on the shelves. Keep an eye out for these. And it might be a good time to visit a small specialty shop where you can ask for local food items.

3 Be Flexible

Yes, you can come prepared with a list, but it’s also good to walk through the whole farmers market or produce section to see what is available before making your purchases. You may change your mind about what you are going to buy. And what you find could determine what you make for dinner that night. If you find chanterelle mushrooms at the market, let them inspire a dinner of grilled grass-fed steaks along with grilled mushrooms. And if you find some delicious apples, how about sautéeing them and serving

When you become a regular at the farmers market, you’ll find out which vendors have the best prices, widest variety or highest quality. Many vendors give out samples, so try the apples from various vendors to see which ones you like best. If you are looking for the best selection, get there when the market opens.

4 Bring Your Own Bags

(or basket, container, cart, backpack, etc.)

While the lack of some sort of container shouldn’t keep you from an impulse visit to the farmers market after work, bringing the right container does make things a lot easier. If you buy large quantities, bring something that you can roll—whether it’s a chic rolling basket, a little red wagon with a kid in the back or a dolly with crates like the professional chefs—but do be considerate of the amount of space it takes to wheel these through crowed market aisles.

Handheld baskets are great for keeping delicate things from being crushed and they’re just as useful at the grocery store as they are at the farmers market. Backpacks are handy if you are coming on bike. And lots of people get by quite well with any of the reusable tote bags that are available in every size, design and configuration. Always keep extras in your car. Don’t forget to bring a few smaller fabric or nylon reusable bags for your produce. Also, it’s handy to bring an insulated bag or ice pack to keep things cold, especially if you are going to be buying meat or dairy products.

Wheat Berries

Edible Santa Barbara CHA LLENGE

5 Get Tokens at the Farmers Market

At grocery stores and produce markets you have your choice of how to pay, but some places take only cash. At the Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Markets, you have another option: Stop by the information booth and use your check, credit or debit card to get tokens. There is just a $1 charge to use your debit or credit card. You can get tokens in denominations of $1, $5 and $10, and they can be used at all their markets.

Use the tokens just as you would cash with the vendors, and most often they will give you back your change in cash. Tokens make great gifts. You can also use the tokens as an easy way to set a budget and get a receipt for how much you spend each week.

6 Pick Up and Delivery

You might also consider joining a communitysupported agriculture (CSA) harvest subscription service, where you get a weekly box of produce. This is often a very economical and practical way to get an assortment of high-quality farm-fresh produce every week. The variable nature of what you will get in your box will bring a wonderful diversity to your meals. If you are really pressed for time, choose one that will deliver directly to your home. You can also join a community-supported fishery (CSF) to pick up fresh, locally caught fish each week or every other week.

The Edible Santa Barbara Supper Club at the Arlington Tavern featured Red Wine Braised Rancho San Julian Beef Short Ribs. Chef Ron True shops regularly at the farmers market, sourcing at much as he can locally.

Availability often changes, but servers and chefs are usually happy to let customers know. And the more people ask, the more they will know that sourcing local is appreciated.

Whether you are actively participating in the Eat Local Challenge or not, the important thing is to find out where your food comes from and choose sustainable, organic, local and ethical foods whenever possible. When you buy these types of whole, natural foods instead of processed and imported foods, you are helping our local economy, our environment and your own health.

7 Eating Out

When eating out, it’s not difficult to choose restaurants that serve local food. Check out our Edible Santa Barbara Dining Guide and look for Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market Farm Friendly Dining Certified restaurants. Some menus will list what is local or even the farm that an ingredient comes from. If things aren’t listed, feel free to ask.

Krista Harris is the editor and co-publisher of Edible Santa Barbara. In addition to starting the annual Eat Local Challenge in October 2009, she is on the board of the Center for Urban Agriculture at Fairview Gardens and is a member of the Partnership Council for the Community Environmental Council.

Resources

To find out more about the Eat Local Challenge, visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com or join the event and group Eat Local Challenge on Facebook.

The Southern California Food Wheel can be ordered at LocalFoodWheel.com.

To learn more about eating local and cooking from scratch, attend the SOL Food Festival and visit the Edible Santa Barbara booth on Saturday, September 28, 2013, 10am–6pm in Vera Cruz Park, Santa Barbara; SOLFoodFestival.com.

Join a community-supported agriculture (CSA) or fishery (CSF) harvest subscription service where you get a weekly box of produce or seafood. See a listing of the CSAs and CSFs located throughout Santa Barbara County on EdibleSantaBarbara.com.

DAVID BROWNE

Edible Santa Barbara CHA LLENGE

DRINKABLE LANDSCAPE

You Say Tomato, I Say Wolf Peach

by George Yatchisin

One of the things you learn if you live in Santa Barbara is that fall is really summer. It seems the mercury climbs the highest in September and October. Meanwhile our gardens are just peaking, while people we know around the country have often pulled everything out or gone to crop cover. We are rich in tomatoes and basil, and our citrus tend to thrive.

This article will take that late-summer-into-fall bounty and turn it into a refreshing cocktail anchored by a local distilled spirit.

The base of this cocktail is American Star Vodka from Ascendant Spirits in Buellton, the first distillery to open in Santa Barbara County since Prohibition. If you’re going to be using local tomatoes, and one might hope homegrown tomatoes, it can’t hurt to work with a local vodka. Especially since American Star is delightful, distilled five times, 100% from corn, very clean with just a smidgen of sweetness, not as much sugary as fruity.

That helps stress how a tomato is a fruit, too, and in this drink you juice it more than you pulverize it. Despite the ingredients, this isn’t merely an anemic Bloody Mary.

Part of the reason for that is the other liquor component, Lillet, is a vermouth on subtle steroids, with its quinine, citrus liqueurs and spices. Far from local, Lillet hails from Bordeaux, France, where it’s often drunk as an aperitif. Adding it to this cocktail not only provides more of the lovely rose color, but it also rounds out the flavors and gives depth to a drink that is a bit astringent, in that classic chasing-the-martini way.

The species name for tomatoes is lycopersicum, which loosely translates to “wolf peach” in Latin. It refers to German werewolf tales in which nightshade fruit could turn one into a werewolf, or so it was believed. So the tomato (as part of the nightshade family) got transformed into the “wolf peach” (how a peach is hairy and a tomato isn’t and how that gets you to a werewolf is still a little unclear).

But it’s easy late in the summer to have too many tomatoes. A cocktail is the perfect place to use, and abuse with your muddler, one that’s a bit past its prime in firmness or looks. Indeed, heirloom tomatoes, so often imperfect, practically cry out to be made into this drink.

Similarly, late gardens often end up with basil going to flower. Since you strain all the solids away, even flowers work in the shaker since they are highly aromatic. If you’ve got it, lemon basil adds one more flavor note that sings along with the preserved lemons, and you have to use preserved lemons. They heighten and brighten the lemon flavors, and the salty touch takes the cocktail into a wonderful dimension that few cocktails short of margaritas can do.

You can make your own preserved lemons relatively easily if you’ve got enough lemons (preferably Meyer lemons) and a pint jar. Wash them, quarter them almost to their bottom—keep them connected like a flower opening its petals. Hang on to the juice as you do this process. Salt the lemons with kosher salt. Put salt at the bottom of the jar, and then squeeze in the lemons so they become pasty with juice and salt. Add more salt along the way, so you end up using about a ¼ cup when you’re done (you really can’t oversalt these). Be sure there’s lemon juice all the way to the top of your lemons. Leave a bit of air space, seal and wait for 30 days—that’s the hardest part.

Beyond this cocktail, use the preserved lemons in salad dressing, for fish dishes, anywhere salt and citrus are a good addition. You will never have enough preserved lemon again, so the good news is that you can buy it. Hilltop and Canyon Farms make wonderful ones available at the Santa Barbara Farmers Market. To use, pull out the lemon you need, strip off to the pith, and use only the skin, which you need to rinse, too, unless you are addicted to salt.

George Yatchisin happily eats, drinks and writes in Santa Barbara. He blogs at GeorgeEats.com

The Wolf Peach

About 11 ⁄ 2 tablespoons preserved lemon, rinsed and thinly sliced

Slice tomato into 8 pieces and put in cocktail shaker. If you lose some seeds along the way, that’s fine; you will be straining this drink. Add basil and slivers of preserved lemon, saving 2 to garnish finished cocktails. Add vodka. Muddle well—until the tomato is somewhat broken down. Let sit for 5 minutes. You don’t have to be precise about the timing; it’s just a guideline.

After that time, be sure the tomato seems further decomposed. Add Lillet. Add ice; shake. Strain—and you have to strain this drink as you want a relatively smooth consistency—into cocktail glasses (coupes preferred). Add a sliver of preserved lemon to each glass.

EDIBLE GARDEN Growing Hops

by Joan S. Bolton

“Fresh from the vine” is not a phrase usually associated with home-brewed beer. But grow your own hops, and you can claim just that.

In the garden, hops are fast-growing, perennial vines that can soar 20 feet tall in a flash. They’re also exceedingly deciduous, dying to the ground and vanishing each winter. But in late summer or early fall, their female, cone-shaped flowers grow plump with lupulin—yellow, pollen-like granules—that preserve and add aroma and flavor to beer. The lime-green cones look similar to ornamental oregano and are quite pretty, even if you never harvest them.

Because beer making is a year-round industry and fresh hops are available only during a slim window, brewers most often use bales of compressed, dried hops. But with craft beer enjoying

immense popularity, some artisanal brewers have begun creating specialty “harvest” beers with wet or fresh hops. Typically, wet hops go straight from the field to a brewpot within 24 hours, while fresh hops are dried, then used within a week. Either way, the idea is to capture clean, bright, grassy or floral aromas. Locally, the sweet spot for picking is August or early September. Farther north, into Oregon and Washington, harvests may be as late as October.

Getting Started

Hops need at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. They also need very tall structures to support their exuberant growth. Commercial growers construct elaborate networks of cables for the vines to clamber up. In Buellton, Bob and Colt Blokdyk at Windmill Nursery grow Cascade and Nugget hops on their suitably convenient, landmark windmill.

At home, heavy-duty twine attached to a south-facing chimney or flat two-story wall will do. Or use poles. In my garden, I pounded 12-foot-tall, round tree stakes 2 feet into the ground this past spring, to support new plantings of Cascade, Centennial, Liberty and Nugget hops. If all goes well, I’ll add extensions next year.

In addition, hops like loose, fertile soil. My garden sports heavy clay, so I dug holes 2 feet wide and 18 inches deep, worked in 6 inches of compost to improve the drainage and provide plenty of readily available nutrients, then mounded the mix so that each of my rhizomes had its own mini raised bed. I finished by shaping basins around each, then began watering daily, as hops prefer consistent moisture, especially early on.

Ongoing Care

The first sprouts appear like wild, rambling berries, with each leaf a dark green, pleated and rounded at the base and pointed at the tip. But fairly quickly, the elongating stems exhibit twisting, twining characteristics, and up and out they go. Once the stems are about a foot long, select the strongest two or three and use stretchy green garden tape to attach them to their supports, wrapping them in the clockwise pattern that they’re programmed to grow. Snip off any remaining sprouts to encourage the plants to put all their energy into just a few vines, rather than many.

As the vines grow broader and taller, they’ll begin to shade their own roots and you can taper off watering. Just don’t let the soil dry out completely. An inch or two of organic mulch will retain moisture longer.

Harvest and Beyond

Several weeks after the cones form, start checking the lupulin glands, which are hidden at the base of each overlapping scale. When the glands begin to swell and produce a strong fragrance, it’s time to harvest. To make sure, roll a few cones between your fingers to see if they release the powdery yellow lupulin along with an intense aroma. The cones should feel a little dry, make a slight rustle in the breeze and may even be turning light brown at their tips.

Ideally, you should harvest individual hops as they ripen. But given that they’re intertwined with trailing stems and leaves that are busy scaling trellises or poles that are 15 to 20 feet tall, that may be rather impractical. Instead, yank down the vines and snip off the hops by hand. Chop up the stems and leaves, then toss them in a compost pile or use them as mulch.

Don’t get discouraged if your vines produce only a few dozen cones the first year. Yield will pick up the second year. By the third year, you should see peak production.

Add wet hops within moments of harvest to a batch of home brew that you’ve already started. Or dry the hops for later use. Air drying is easy enough: Spread a layer of hops up to six inches thick on a window screen. Place it in a shady spot, out of the sun. Fluff the hops daily to tease out the moisture. Once the cones are dry—which should take a week or two—pack them into heavy plastic storage bags. Store the bags in your freezer.

In early spring, just before your hops break dormancy, pull away the soil from their crowns and cut off any advancing roots or runners. Also continue to limit each plant to two or three vines when they sprout. Do this faithfully every year. Otherwise, as your hops gain vigor, they may engulf your garden. Then add fresh compost to the soil mix and fresh mulch on top, and check that your trellising system is sturdy enough for another year. Although the first year’s growth may appear puny, mature plants bearing ripe hops can weigh 20 pounds or more, which can easily snap thin twine or topple skinny poles. Mature plants also bear the equivalent of up to two pounds of dried hops. Just a few plants should produce enough to brew several very nice batches of beer. Cheers!

Joan S. Bolton is a freelance writer, garden coach and garden designer who confesses to a lifelong love affair with plants. She and her husband, Tom, maintain avocado, citrus and fruit trees and grow vegetables and herbs year-round. SantaBarbaraGardens.com

LIQUID ASSETS

The Comeback of Lower-Alcohol Wines

by Louis Villard

The latest trend in winemaking is hardly a trend, but rather an appreciation of a style nearly forgotten in California—wines being made with a lower alcohol percentage. There was a time in California when winemakers strived to emulate the wines of France (other Old World places too, but mostly France). This was back in the 1970s and part of the ’80s, when wines were restrained and light in style. By the ’90s, however, the shift had already begun, and California wines were huge. Chardonnay had tons of oak and loads of creamy butterscotch flavors. And the Cabernets were being made into huge, rich fruit bombs with tannins so grippy

they took a layer off your tongue. For the most part these wines were high in alcohol.

Some say these big wines were the product of certain wine critics and publications who favored the more extracted style, while others think it was California developing its own way in the wine world. For whatever reason, these types of higher alcohol wines tended to fit the climate and terroir of California. Better still, they were hugely popular. But like all things in life, trends and popularity change, and what is now creeping up is a resurgence, perhaps even a renaissance, of lowalcohol winemaking.

Bob Wesley, owner of the Winehound, has seen this lowalcohol style before. “It’s a cyclical thing. Back in the 1970s, for example, wines were made with more moderate ripeness,” he noted.

This low-alcohol style started making a comeback in Sonoma in the 2000s. But that’s not to say these types of wines weren’t being made in Santa Barbara already. Many of the county’s original producers including Rick Longoria of Longoria Wines, Craig Jaffurs of Jaffurs Wine Cellars, Bob Lindquist of Qupé and Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat, plus a few more, were all making these low-alcohol style wines from the beginning.

Drake Whitcraft, winemaker of Whitcraft Winery and son of founder Chris Whitcraft, is a younger winemaker with an interest in low-alcohol wines. In fact he has quite an opinion on the subject: “I think here in America, for the most part, we follow what trends are set by whoever is dictating the market. It’s unfortunate. I know of multiple winemakers now ‘toning back’ the alcohol and fruit, ‘striving for more balanced wines,’ even though they could have done that before.”

In

Gavin Chanin, head winemaker of Lutum and his own label Chanin Wine, is a big believer in low-alcohol wine or, as he likes to call it, “normal wine.” He explains, “It’s easy to quantify a low-alcohol wine but when you think about it, it’s not just about alcohol. A lot of us who make this have changed how we talk about it. After the style came into vogue, there were people just making low-alcohol wines. But when you tried some of those wines, which were unbalanced, you realized there are a million other things involved. You can’t just tweak one number and expect good results from it.”

Sashi Moorman is interested in the lower ripeness levels in a slightly different way. A few years back, when he was making wine for Evening Land Vineyards, he worked with grapes from Oregon picked at a far lower phenolic ripeness levels than typically found in California. He was surprised with how great the wines tasted and how well the grapes adapted to his style.

general, 10% to 13.9% can be considered low, 14% to 14.5% is a bit of a no man’s land in the middle and anything above 14.5% is cruising to the high level. However, it’s not always

that clear cut.

So what is considered low alcohol? After chatting to various winemakers I found that in terms of alcohol percentage, the criteria vary. In general, 10% to 13.9% can be considered low, 14% to 14.5% is a bit of a no man’s land in the middle and anything above 14.5% is cruising to the high level. However, it’s not always that clear cut.

Graham Tatomer of Tatomer Wines feels he reluctantly gets pulled into the low-alcohol camp because a couple of his wines are around the 12% mark. However, other wines he makes are, as he says, more balanced at a higher alcohol percentage. Tatomer’s Lafond Riesling comes in at 14.5%, and he says, “I feel there has been a kind of line drawn by the movement, and it has maybe been too low of a number.” Tatomer has a point. Is a perfectly balanced Zinfandel or Syrah at 14.9% a high-alcohol wine?

There is a far bigger picture to discuss when talking about alcohol level, and that is about balance. Let’s say in car terms you want to modify your engine to go faster. You’ll also have to modify your suspension, brakes and whatever else to sustain that new speed. The same is true in wine. If you want to make a wine at a different alcohol level, there are many other factors involved to create the right balance.

You may have heard winemakers discussing Brix when referring to picking their grapes. Degrees Brix is the sugar content of an aqueous solution, and for wine that’s the grape juice. In its most simple terms, the higher the sugar content in the grapes when picked, the higher the potential alcohol of the resulting wine.

“You can make a wine more transparent to the vineyard site. For me it’s important that people can taste the appellation, the vineyard,” says Sashi. He feels that if wines are too ripe they tend to mask the terroir, and the subtleties of that vineyard’s unique expression is lost.

When it comes to matching with food, there seems to be an overwhelming favor for the restrained style. Brian McClintic, the Master Sommelier co-owner of Les Marchands in Santa Barbara, thinks these types of wines are an excellent option with food. “Oftentimes you have wines lower in alcohol and higher in acid made in a restrained style that are much better food wines. They are not going to dominate any dishes. Lower-alcohol wines can be a lot more versatile with food.”

David deLaski is the owner of Solminer, a winery and vineyard he started with his wife, Anna, in 2012. His Austrian varietal wines are very well suited for food pairing. “We do find that more moderate levels of alcohol match better with food. Most chefs and foodies we know are partial to wines that have good acidic structure and lower comparable alcohol because they complement food and don’t take over,” says David.

It appears that the Santa Barbara County winemakers producing this restrained style of lower alcohol wines are really all about balance. It doesn’t matter whether you consider it a new trend, a resurrection or a European influence. Whatever the exact alcohol percentage, the point is to enjoy these wines, and enjoy them with food. We are fortunate in Santa Barbara County to have so many winemakers who focus not on following trends, but making a diverse body of world-class wines.

Louis Villard has spent the past 15 years working in wine, from making it in the South of France to serving it in London’s Michelin-starred restaurants. Now, he’s trekking his native California and reporting on what’s exciting and new. His blog is SpiltWine.com

S aturday, Sept. 14th • 12:00 to 4:00pm Raw Cuisine: Divine Desserts, Cookies

S aturday, Oct. 19th • 12:00 to 4:00pm Raw Cuisine: Happy Holidays

S aturday, Nov. 23rd • 12:00 to 4:00pm

Ihave a fermentation fetish. I’m not sure why, but it makes me weirdly and profoundly happy to observe the energetic pulse of life beneath the surface of things. It’s the same sense of wonder one feels when looking into a tidepool. Fermentation seems to offer a glimpse inside a microcosm. And it’s a delectable one.

Wine began my fascination with fermentation, and I’m continually captivated by it from both an epicurean and microbiological perspective. For the same rush of sciency-sensory excitement, I brew kombucha, bake bread and experiment in the kitchen with maniacal glee. Brewing beer, however, has offered me a fresh adventure—one infused with chemistry and culinary thrills.

It’s as if beer making is a front-row seat to a molecular magic show and you’re privy to the alchemist’s secrets.

For brewing is an opportunity to work with flavors on an intimate scale while observing life on a cellular level. When you make beer, you witness first-hand some of life’s most fundamental microbiological processes. You notice the effects of tiny half molecules and ions in the way minerals in water directly influence the beer’s flavor. You’re face to face with enzymes as they break down barley starches and create sugars. The invisible gold dust of yeast transforms the liquid before your eyes; the gurgle and fizz of carbon dioxide bubbles are audible evidence. It’s as if beer making is a frontrow seat to a molecular magic show and you’re privy to the alchemist’s secrets.

Casting wort or separating liquid sugar and color-rich base beer from the grain in the mash.

A good day in paradise. Island Brewing Co.’s Paradise Pale Ale overflowing.

Guerilla Brewing

As with baking, anyone who can follow a recipe can make perfectly delicious beer. Or you can embellish it with additional grains, spices or hops. In fact, you can adjust the process any way you like to produce a beer that perfectly suits your palate or the dish you’ve dreamed of pairing it with. Beer making is cooking, only nerdier. Which is why I am now hooked.

It’s also relatively inexpensive. For $120 to $200 you can have all the equipment you need to get started. Ingredients run anywhere from $40 to $80 for a five-gallon batch, but that’s about 54 (12-ounce) beers. And, you’ll be able to say that you handcrafted them yourself.

ale called a Saison and a rye-based Black IPA—both from partial boil kits that we picked up at Valley Brewers in Solvang.

We spent a morning cleaning glass jugs, kettles, tubing and funnels. During our boil, we steeped grain bags and hops, essentially making a sweet, grainy tea. We chilled the liquid (called wort) and took our hydrometer readings, important for tracking the wort’s progress from sweetness to dryness throughout fermentation. Into the murky liquid I pitched my first yeast with celebratory flourish, and thus began the microbial fiesta.

In our area, the growth of the craft beer industry has translated into a flourishing beer scene with an ever-increasing number of breweries, brew pubs and locally made beers. Santa Barbara County is thirsty, it seems.

I recently made my first two batches of beer with my friends Kady Fleckenstein and Mike Pickard. They started home brewing a few years ago, inspired by a kit. Since then, they have produced some extraordinary brews and have gathered a wealth of experience. We decided on two recipes—a Belgian farmhouse

After a couple of weeks and a bit of racking (transferring the beer from one vessel to another to remove sediment), we mixed in priming sugar to induce a secondary, carbonating fermentation and sealed each bottle with a cap. When we tasted the beers three weeks later, it seemed nothing short of a miracle that the swampy liquid inside that glass jug had turned into something so complex and deeply pleasurable.

Who knew fermenting could be so much fun? Chris Kelly of Valley Brewers guides novice beer makers and inspires experienced brewers.

“Any commercial beer that you enjoy, we can help you make,” explains Sandy Harrison of Valley Brewers, a wonderland-like homebrew shop in Solvang. “We have books of recipes that outline all you need to make your own Pliny the Elder or Janet’s Brown Ale,” echoes co-owner Chris Kelly. Together they have about eight years of home brewing experience, which allows them to offer the sort of friendly guidance a novice home brewer needs. In fact, answering questions, assembling ingredients and inspiring experimentation are what they do best.

In addition, Chris and Sandy have created several proprietary kits: a Black IPA, a Pale Ale and a collaborative kit with Figueroa Mountain Brewing.

“If you like Fig’s Davy Brown Ale,” says Sandy, “we have a kit that makes it really simple to brew at home.” The pair also sponsors educational programs like beer-blending workshops, sensory seminars and yeast trials in conjunction with local homebrew clubs.

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Chris encourages novice brewers to join a homebrew club like the Santa Barbeerians, Carpinteria and Rincon Point (CARP) HomeBrewers or the Valley Brewers club, since they offer a place to share information and ideas, problem solve and create.

“As brewers we collaborate,” says David Mazzonetto, a founding member of the Valley Brewers club and an avid home brewer. “We bring up issues and talk about them so that we can all make better beers.”

When I ask Mazzonetto’s advice for beginners like me, he says, “Practice. Follow the guidelines, and you’ll make great beer.” But his eyes light up and his words quicken as he tells me about some of his experimentation with wine yeasts and spontaneous fermentations.

“The possibilities are infinite. That’s the fun of yeast strains and adjunct grains—you can embellish any base recipe and make it yours! It just takes a little creativity.”

Kettle to Craft

Ask any commercial brewer how they began making beer and their response will likely be home brewing. Prior to 1978, however, home brewing was illegal in the U.S. When Prohibition came to an end in 1933, the statute that replaced it legalized home winemaking but neglected to include the making of beer—so home brewing remained against the law. It wasn’t until President Jimmy Carter signed H.R. 1337 in 1978 that home brewing became legal again. And a first generation of craft brewers began experimenting.

With each subsequent generation of home brewers, more commercial artisanal brewers emerged on the scene. Today there are approximately 2,360 craft breweries in the U.S. and over a million home brewers, according to the National Homebrew Association. Even President Obama brews his own. And in typical home brewer fashion, he happily shares the recipe for his honey brown ale.

From left: Owner Brian Thompson holding a gate valve and brewer

Paul Rey holding part of a mash mixing rake at the new facility of Telegraph Brewing Co.

Beer Culture in Santa Barbara County

In our area, the growth of the craft beer industry has translated into a flourishing beer scene with an ever-increasing number of breweries, brew pubs and locally made beers. Santa Barbara County is thirsty, it seems.

“People are no longer content buying big-brand beers,” explains A.J. Stoll, brewmaster at Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co. “They want to taste something local, well-crafted and really special.”

As he takes a break from loading grain into the masher and looks around the pub’s lively crowd, he marvels at the mixture of ages and backgrounds. “Beer is a great equalizer. It brings people together. It’s nice to see young families, retirees and mustached hipsters all enjoying the beer where it’s made.” The grain’s oatmealy fragrance infuses this sentiment with even more wholesomeness.

The influence of Santa Barbara’s wine industry on local beer culture is also apparent. “Taste is being in tune. It’s about paying attention,” A.J. explains. “Whether you’ve experienced this with food or appreciating wine or beer, the elements are the same in terms of aroma, flavor and mouthfeel.”

Luke Barret is learning to “clean in place” a fermenter while A.J. Stoll, brewmaster, hoses down the floor behind him at Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co.

A.J. Stoll takes a sample of the finished beer to check for level of carbonation and mouthfeel.

From A.J.’s perspective, local beer drinkers demonstrate more sensory intelligence than the average consumer. “You don’t really need much of a palate to appreciate beers with bracing hops. They require a single neuron to contemplate. But a beer put together in a seamless way requires your whole brain to wrap around it. Beer drinkers here seem to appreciate harmony.”

“There’s no doubt that the wine industry influences beer culture in Santa Barbara County,” says Jeffers Richardson of Firestone Walker Brewing Co.’s Barrelworks Program. From behind the stainless-steel bar of the Buellton Taproom, he explains that local beer aficionados are most likely savvier than the average consumer because of their exposure to wine tasting.

On the production side, Jeffers explains that Firestone invites local winemakers to help blend their Anniversary Ale, an American Strong Ale with complex flavors of bourbon and caramel, dark fruit and bittersweet chocolate.

“Brewers often think in terms of exclamation points,” he says of the tendency to emphasize specific flavor components.

Jeffers Richardson and Jim Crooks (aka “Sour Jim”) sample their “feral beers.” Right: Taking samples of barrel-aged beers.

“Winemakers think in terms of complexity, nuance and balance. In addition to exclamation points, people familiar with wine want nuance and complexity,” a thought that echoes the three tenets of Firestone’s Barrelworks program: balance, barrels and blending.

“People have become more interested in exploring and letting their palates expand,” he says. “They’re excited to try something new. It’s an exciting time for craft beer,” says Jeffers. And in fact, the best way to inform your palate, according to most brewers, is to seek out various beer styles and experience a diverse array of flavor profiles.

As a home brewer, I like to call this sort of beer drinking “research.” Fortunately for us, there are a number of local breweries producing high-quality beers and experimenting with innovative techniques.

Back to the Future

“Clean beer is a blip in beer’s history—a relatively small period in the timeline,” Jeffers explains as he pours a sour, wild yeast beer at Firestone’s Barrelworks in Buellton. “During the Industrial Revolution beer took a technological path. But some of us are going back to how beer was originally made. Which was local and regional, using time-honored techniques like using wood vessels and wild yeasts. So it’s sort of going back in time, but it’s also innovative.”

And in fact, science has come in to help explain the mystery of traditional methods. Wooden barrels, for example, were traditional beer containers. Though challenging to clean and sanitize completely from a microbiological perspective, we now know that barrels facilitate a series of chemical reactions that contribute compounds like vanillin, wood sugars and tannins, while wood’s porosity slowly oxidizes the liquid and creates a nurturing environment for yeasts and bacteria to flourish.

For conventional brewers, these variables and wild yeasts might sound scary. “Essentially everything we’re doing goes against the doctrines of modern brewing and what they teach you in brew school,” says Richardson of his “feral beers.” “We invite bacteria.”

In fact, different strains of microflora impart unique flavors and aromatics as they consume the sugars in beer. Richardson explains that some brewers “collect bugs”—various strains of Lactobacillus, Brettanomyces or Saccharomyces cerevisia —and propagate those with favorable aromas and flavor characteristics.

Firestone’s Barrelworks program started in 2008 with two barrels brewed illicitly by Jim Crooks, the brewery’s master blender and microflora manager, who was also the quality control manager at the time. Because of the potential for wild yeast strains to contaminate other fermenting beverages, the project had to be kept on the down-low and hidden from view. “Owners are in the building,” cellar staff would alert Crooks, “Move the barrels!” And for several years there simply wasn’t a market for sour beers. In time, however, owners Adam Firestone and David Walker began to recognize the relevance and potential of Crooks’ renegade project.

But Firestone’s not alone in stretching beer’s boundaries.

innovation + balance = beautifully crafted beers.

Further Fermentation

On tap at Hollister Brewing Co. is Tiny Bubbles, a German-style sour beer, made with Lactobacillus yeasts. Island Brewing Co. offers oak-aged renditions of several of its brews. In fact, their Barrel Aged Big Island Imperial IPA—which recently earned top honors at both the World Beer Championships and LA International Beer Competition—rests in bourbon barrels to develop its rich, caramel-infused flavor. Fess Parker Winery and The Bruery recently released a collaborative beer called Confession, a wild ale fermented with Riesling grapes from local vineyards.

So are these practices innovative or primitive? It’s interesting to consider that similar mixtures of grain, fruit and wild yeast have been found in beers made by ancient Chinese, Sumerian and Egyptian cultures. Like molecular fingerprints, residues left behind on clay vessels reveal the chemical composition of beers dating back to the Neolithic period. Fermented grains are easily distinguishable, it seems, while tartaric acid indicates the presence of grapes and traces of beeswax suggest that the brews were often sweetened with honey. Contemporary wild ales—with their

earthy, funky aromas, tartness and surprising complexity— represent a return to these ancient brewing practices but with the stabilizing framework of science.

As we sip a golden Reserve Wheat beer from a bottle labeled with masking tape, Paul Rey, brewer at Telegraph Brewing Co., tells me about this fusion of old and new. Each beer in Telegraph’s limited-release Obscura line encapsulates the earthy simplicity of wild yeast fermentation and brewing technology, from the Petit Obscura, a crisp, light-bodied wild ale, to the Obscura Vulpine, a wine-like red ale aged in Syrah barrels. These beers need a lot of attention and care. “They’re all made in tiny batches and take a lot of time—years, even—to mature,” he explains.

He then shows me photographs he’s taken of yeast under the microscope, pointing out the round shapes of Saccharomyces cerevisiae on a slide stained blue. Suddenly we’re electrified with wonder. We’re peering into a different world.

“That’s the exciting part,” Paul says, scrolling to a photo and pointing out the rods of Lactobacillus and the elongated spheres of Brettanomyces. “We’re working with microorganisms that you can’t see with your eyes. But when I look under a microscope and get a feel for the yeast culture and how it’s going to behave as it ferments—that intimate knowledge is the most amazing feeling.”

Beer Essentials

Water

Beer is mostly water. Water brings its own chemical and flavor profile minerals, ions and half molecules from the soils, pipes and rocks it’s traveled over. These minerals lend character to beer.

Santa Barbara’s water profile tends to be fairly hard and mineralladen, which accentuates hop bitterness and fruity esters.

Each type of beer and brewing process has its ideal water chemistry. In fact, brewers looking for a specific flavor profile bring their water to the chemistry of the geographic region in which their beer style was originally made.

Barley

During the malting process, barley is sprouted in water, activating enzymes. It’s then caramelized in the kiln which creates toasty, nutty aromatics, flavors and colors. When the malt is mixed with hot water (called mashing) the enzymes convert starch from grains to sugars. The resulting sweet liquid is called wort.

Hops

Hops grow on a vine in the nettle family. Hop cones are used for beer making. Inside the hop cone is an internal stem surrounded by beads of lupulin, a waxy golden substance made up of aromatic oils and bitter resins. Every variety of hop and growing region produces a different combination of these oils and resins. With boiling, hops release bitter agents. However, during the boil volatile aromas evaporate, so if a brewer wants to add hoppy aromatics, he or she will add hops later in the process.

Yeast

Brewers make wort. Yeast makes beer. The microbial magic begins when the brewer adds yeast. Yeast converts the barley’s sugars to ethanol and carbon dioxide. There are hundreds of brewing strains, each with a signature aroma/flavor profile. Fermentation temperature dictates some of the flavors yeast imparts: low temperatures 40–45° (lagers) yield few byproducts but higher temperatures 55° or above (ales) release fruity, spicy esters and phenolic compounds.

Brettanomyces

Lactobacillus Saccharomy cescerevisiae

Yeast under the microscope

Paul Rey, brewer at Telegraph Brewing Co.

We sip and contemplate the portraits. Is this the Earth from afar or a cellular image? One looks like a cityscape or a screenshot from GoogleMaps. Another is strangely reminiscent of Carl Sagan’s Pale Blue Dot, a reflection of the Earth from 6 billion kilometers away. Together we marvel at the minicosmos within every droplet—a reminder that at its essence, beer is life.

Laura Sanchez has fond memories of childhood sips of her dad’s Coors Light, of cañas of Mahou in Madrid and tart, froth-tinged Lambics in Copenhagen. She is captivated by the interplay of hops, malt and yeast and lives for the intense refreshment of the first sip. Laura@Nectar-Media.com

Where To Do Research

Breweries

The Brewhouse

229 W. Montecito St., Santa Barbara BrewhouseSB.com; 805 884-4664

Captain Fatty’s Craft Brewery (coming soon) CaptainFattys.com

Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co.

45 Industrial Way, Buellton and 137 Anacapa St., Suite F, Santa Barbara FigMtnBrew.com; 805 694-2252

Firestone Walker Brewing Co.

620 McMurray Rd., Buellton FirestoneBeer.com; 805 225-5911

Hollister Brewing

6980 Marketplace Dr., Goleta HollisterBrewCo.com; 805 968-2810

Island Brewing Co.

5049 Sixth St., Carpinteria IslandBrewingCompany.com; 805 745-8272

Pure Order Brewing Co. (coming soon)

410 N. Quarantina St., Santa Barbara PureOrderBrewing.com

Santa Barbara Brewing Co.

501 State St., Santa Barbara SBBrewCo.com; 805 730-1040

Solvang Brewing

1547 Mission Dr., Solvang Solvang Brewing Company on Facebook 805 688-2337

Telegraph Brewing Co.

416 N. Salsipuedes St., Santa Barbara TelegraphBrewing.com; 805 963-5018

Supplies

Valley Brewers

515 Fourth Place, Solvang ValleyBrewers.com; 805 691-9159

Pinot & Sparkling Wine Without Pretense

Tasting Room: Lompoc Wine Ghetto 1520 East Chestnut Court, Unit A Thursday–Monday 11am–4pm Bubbles Bar Open on Weekends FlyingGoatCellars.com 805-736-9032

Putting Permaculture Principles into Practice at Regenerative Earth Farm

by Nancy Oster

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEELA CYD

Leaning over a 300-gallon stainless steel vat, I’m up to my elbows in curds—feta cheese curds. This batch of feta was made yesterday, drained overnight and has just come out of the brine bath. Working next to me is cheesemaker Makaila HarvanThompson and across the vat from us is her cousin and marketing manager Ana Brush.

Breaking large curds into smaller curds releases the sweet fragrance of the rich organic cow’s milk delivered fresh yesterday from a small family dairy in Sonoma, California. As we pile the curds up towards our sides of the vat, the excess whey runs back to the center and out the drain. Makaila leaves to prepare the spicy blend of peppers that we will hand-mix into these curds to produce Spicy Feta (wearing gloves, of course).

I’ve arrived early in the morning on what promises to become a very hot summer’s day. Makaila and Ana have been working since 7am and probably won’t finish up the last batch of cheese until late into the night. They have 72 hours to transform about 1,000 gallons of milk into an array of cheeses. Some cheeses—such as the brie, the cheddar and a semisoft jack—will go into the aging room to sit on shelves among other fragrantly ripening cheeses. The fresh feta we are working with will be packaged for immediate sale or soaked in organic olive oil for flavor and longer shelf life.

Casitas Valley Creamery produced its first cheese in May of this year. The creamery is located off of Highway 150 on the way to Lake Casitas, and it is part of the newly purchased Regenerative Earth Farm.

Harder cheeses, like cheddar, sit on shelves in the aging room.

Opposite: Cousins Makaila Harvan-Thompson and Ana Brush take a break.

Building a Permaculture-Based Model

Permaculture designer and teacher Warren Brush is the visionary behind Regenerative Earth Farm. As co-founders of Quail Springs Learning Oasis & Permaculture Farm and the Wilderness Youth Project, Warren and his wife, Cyndi, have spent the past 25 years teaching kids and adults to observe, learn from and connect with the world around them.

Permaculture design embraces three core ethics: 1) Earth stewardship, 2) caring for one another and 3) sharing and recycling surplus. With the help of a longtime friend and silent investor, Warren is putting his permaculture teachings to the test on this piece of land to prove the economic strength of the permaculture approach. Explaining why attention to the natural capital in our land is important, he says, “The savings account for our next generation is in the soil and nowhere else.”

Many farms along the road are for sale. Most farms, like this one, depend on wholesale mono-crops (usually avocados) as their primary source of income. Warren believes that diversification can revitalize and make these farms more profitable for the next generations of farmers.

A 2009–10 study by Professor David Cleveland and his students at UC Santa Barbara found that more than 99% of the produce grown in Santa Barbara County is exported and more than 95% of the produce consumed here has been imported. “Export usually means large quantities of a single crop sold to distributors at wholesale prices,” says Warren. “Developing multiple enterprises allows a bad avocado year to be offset by sales from another crop or product.”

Selling directly to local consumers would boost a farm’s income, keep money within the community, build relationships and maintain access to fresh food even when imported food is not available.

With the creamery building and equipment already on the property, Regenerative Earth Farm chose to move ahead on this microbusiness, a project led by Warren’s niece Makaila and his daughter Ana.

A Family Enterprise

There are four generations of family living, working and playing together on the farm. This extended family brings a diverse set of skills and energy to the Regenerative Earth project.

During my visit to the creamery, family members drop in to see what is happening and to ask if they can help out now or later in the day. Warren’s wife, Cyndi, will come in the afternoon to make cheese, help clean up between batches and do some packaging.

Makaila’s and Ana’s grandparents, Michael and Sandy Harvan, live in a house near the creamery building. Michael is a retired chef. They frequently prepare family dinners and bring food during the day to the hard-working cheesemakers.

Warren Brush and Aiden Harvan observe the cycle of life in a walnut.

Above left: Warren’s newly installed bees pollinate fruit blossoms and return to the hives with honey nectar from the farm’s flowers and trees. Lower left: Crows beware! Upper and lower right: A kitchen garden provides vegetables for family dinners and hot peppers and herbs for Casitas Creamery cheeses. Makaila Harvan-Thompson, Cyndi Harvan, Ana Brush.

Makaila’s parents, Tamara and Deron Thompson, show up at the creamery in the afternoon, after a day of work in town, to help package cheese. They also help with tastings on the weekends.

Their uncle Marc Harvan also lives on the farm with his wife, Alyssa Reginato. Marc has done most of the construction to update the creamery and helps tend the orchards. Ana’s husband, Jesse Smith, oversees market branding for the farm, shares creamery duties and works at the tasting table at special events. He also makes sure the spicy seasoning is hot enough. Even Makaila’s brother, Zachary Thompson, who is at school in Chicago, calls in to participate in family farm meetings. Makaila laughs, “We put him on speaker phone and prop the phone up in the breadbasket.”

A Walk Around the Farm

My first visit to the farm was last November, just two weeks after Warren took possession of the 49-acre property. Cleanup work on the creamery had already begun and plans were underway to increase the diversity of plants and trees growing on the farm.

I parked my car at the future site of a kitchen garden that now grows the herbs for Warren’s father-in-law’s herb seasoning, used in the herbed cheeses at the creamery.

Walking down the hill past a cluster of persimmon trees, Warren pointed to the sun-ripened fruit. He will send some of this fruit to a new local distillery to be made into brandy as a test product for the farm.

We reached the open area that will eventually be the market garden and Warren pointed out erosion gullies in need of repair. “This valley is prime farmland,” he tells me. “We’re only 2.3 miles from the ocean, so close we can smell the seaweed. We’re above the fog line but protected by these hills from the intense heat of Ojai. This microclimate grows better summer vegetables than the coastal farms.” The soil just needs some tending.

“All economy comes down to the soil,” he explains. “To build soil, you have to have the bacteria and fungi working for you. When you get the soil biology right, you don’t need chemicals. Healthy soil microbiology contains millions or even trillions of extra workers.”

We turn left down a path. On our right is a grove of apple trees. Warren hands me a crisp juicy sweet Granny Smith apple wet from yesterday’s rain. One of the farm dogs trails behind us looking for handouts.

The avocado trees to our left grow up the slope of a steep hill. Warren explains that the trees at the bottom of the slope, where the mulch accumulates, have not been affected by root rot (phytophthora) and appear stronger overall that the trees higher up. With the help of his orchard manager, Loren Luyendyk, he plans to put straw wattles across the contour of the slope to hold mulch and water near the roots of trees higher up. He will pin the straw wattles with young citrus

Opposite: Ana and Makaila prepare their cheese for market.

Below: An acre of apple trees add to the farm’s yearly harvest. Hardworking piglets clean up the rotting fruit after the harvest to prevent coddling moth infestation.

Casitas Valley Creamery labels were designed by Ana’s husband, Jesse Smith.

trees or mulberries that can grow under the canopy provided by the mature avocado trees. Then they plan to inoculate the miles of straw wattle with shitake mushrooms. They will experiment with other understory plants as well such as ginger, cardamom, lemon grass, guava, dragon fruit, goji berries, comfrey and coffee.

The farm’s 22 acres of organic Hass avocado trees produce 250,000 to 300,000 pounds of avocados a year. However, a large proportion are grades B and C. Grade A avocados bring highest dollar sales, so Warren is looking into using a centrifuge to process the B and C grade fruit for avocado oil as a value-added product. This, like the creamery, could become a valuable micro-enterprise.

Pigs, Goats and Chickens

“We’re bringing back the pigs,” Warren tells me. “Back in the ’30s a man named Otto Hopkins had pigs here on Casitas Pass Road,” he says. “Most cities in America used a piggery system for recycling compostable trash.” Hopkins collected trash from local residents, sterilized and fed it to the pigs, then sold the fattened pigs to slaughterhouses in Los Angeles.

The young pigs will be moved around the property to clean up fallen apples, avocados, acorns and even poison oak. This will prevent pest infestations like coddling moth from developing in the decaying fruit and the pigs will fertilize the soil while they are eating. They will recycle the wastes from the avocado oil processing, cheesemaking and even the brandy wastes will come back to the farm for the pigs. Goats will be used to clear brush and chickens will provide bug control, fresh eggs and more soil-building fertilizer.

Challenges

On a visit back to the farm later in the summer to get an update on the progress I can see immediate changes. The kitchen garden where I park my car is filled with herbs, chard, squash, strawberries and flowers. New varieties of apple trees have been planted in the orchard along with sweet white alyssum and orange California poppies to attract pollinating bees from newly installed beehives.

I’m greeted by Ana, Makaila and a couple of farm dogs. We sit at a table outside the creamery. The cheese tastings have been successful and the wholesale and online customer base is growing.

Makaila and Ana are strategizing how to balance supply and demand. The fresh cheeses have a shorter shelf life and the aged cheeses need five or six month to age, so they have to stay ahead of demand. Makaila is negotiating how much milk to purchase for the next batch and how and when it will be transported, knowing that this will continue to change as the business grows.

Ana says, “There are a lot of hoops to jump through. It always takes a little more work than you expect.” They would like to do more direct sales but since the milk is not

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produced on their farm, they cannot sell their cheese at any of the California Certified Farmers Markets, such as the ones in Santa Barbara. They could sell at the Ojai farmers market, but they are still working on how to meet Ventura County regulations. They are also working to get the permits for creamery tours and cheese tastings on the farm. In the meantime, they will start selling at local stores and at some farmers markets in Los Angeles.

New Growth

“Recognizing and responding to challenges and change is an important principle of permaculture,” Ana tells me. First you observe the living systems in your environment and identify ways to work in harmony with them. Then you stand back to observe new growth and make improvements where they

A few minutes later on our way to visit the new piglets, orchard manager Loren Luyendyk stops us. He is holding a foot-high walnut tree that has sprouted in the shell of a decaying walnut from one of the nearby black walnut trees. Seen through the lens of nature, this living sprout symbolizes precisely what the Regenerative Earth Farm project has set out to demonstrate: regeneration, resilience and hope for

As a community we too can help to ensure the economic future and growth of local farms by paying attention to where our food is grown and consciously choosing to purchase whenever possible from within our local food system.

didn’t grow up on a farm but she did spend a lot of time at large family gatherings preparing and eating food purchased from Santa Barbara farms. Her grandparents, who shopped at local vegetable farms, dairies, fish markets and poultry farms, would undoubtedly be surprised today to see how much rich fertile soil has been covered with asphalt and concrete.

Resources Regenerative Earth Farm 805 649-8179; RegenerativeEarth.com

Casitas Valley Creamery

Casitas Valley Creamery cheeses are available at: Carpinteria Farm Cart: 5301 Carpinteria Ave. (Wed 2–6pm), Isabella Gourmet Foods in Santa Barbara, Pierre Lafond in Montecito, Rainbow Bridge in Ojai. 805 649-8179; CasitasValleyCreamery.com

Santa Barbara Organics

Orchard manager Loren Luyendyk offers sustainable landscape and agriculture design and consultation services. SBOrganics.com

From left: Loren Luyendyk with his baby (Amalei Luyendyk), Warren Brush, Jesse Smith. Front row: Aiden Harvan, Tyler Harvan and dog (Riley).

History and Sustainability in the Sta. Rita Hills since 1970

Pinot Noir – Chardonnay – Pinot Gris – Pinot Blanc – Vin Gris

Wine Tasting Daily

11:00 am – 4:30 pm

Alma Rosa Winery and Vineyards Tasting Room and Offices

7250 Santa Rosa Road, Buellton, CA 93427

805.688.9090 – AlmaRosaWinery.com THEKLA & RICHARD SANFORD’S

Thekla and Richard Sanford making Pinot Noir in the Sta. Rita Hills, 1976.

photo

Tom Allen

The Living Laboratory Santa Barbara Aquaponics is Farming for the Future

by Rachel Hommel

PHOTOGRAPHY

BY

JEANINE BRANDI

A range of diverse crops can be grown—including these basil plants..

Care of the Earth. Care of the people. Return of the surplus. These three core tenets of permaculture have set the stage for aquaponics, a self-sustaining system where fish and plant life orchestrate their own living symphony.

This symbiotic relationship has been around for centuries, with its earliest roots in ancient Aztec traditions. Gaining recent popularity in Australia, where crippling droughts have transformed the way water is used, aquaponics offers farmers a water-efficient alternative, utilizing as much as 90% less water than traditional agriculture.

Intrigued by the innovative fusion of hydroponics and aquaculture, I set out to interview Santa Barbara Aquaponics at their hillside location. I found myself in an empty parking lot, hot and dusty from a Santa Barbara heat wave. With no background in aquaponics, I was not sure what to expect amongst the gravel and rock, but there it lay, like a mirage. It was a beauty of a system—kale, leafy greens and tomatoes— sprouting up from what was once abandoned land.

Kevin Childerley and Randy Turner, founders of Santa Barbara Aquaponics, were eager to show me around the site. Their love of experiential learning (as well as teaching) became apparent as they introduced me to their aquatic friends. Kevin’s background in permaculture design has paved the way for this new venture in sustainable agriculture.

“Even in land where soil is very distressed, an aquaponics system can grow,” said Kevin. “We are doing this in a parking lot—a gravel parking lot—and we are growing food. The possibilities are endless.”

His business partner Randy explains, “For the world we are going into, a water-starved world, this can be one solution to growing food for our future.” Randy, a self-described fish head, joined forces with Kevin when they founded the company in September 2012. Randy’s work with the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service brought him to the UCSB Bren School of

Kevin Childerley and Randy Turner, founders of Santa Barbara Aquaponics, in front of their living ecosystem.

Randy holds up a seedling in a net pot.

Environmental Science and Management. Getting his hands dirty in the field, his work affords him the opportunity to find solutions to our environmental problems, particularly regarding water management.

“It has been said that aquaponics uses only 10% of the water that soil farming uses. It’s amazingly water efficient.”

Creating a highly productive polyculture system, aquaponics is the fusion of aquaculture and hydroponics, where fish waste is converted to plant food using natural bacterial cycles.

Aquaponics offers significant potential to help our society grow food both commercially and in our backyards. Creating a highly productive polyculture system, aquaponics is the fusion of aquaculture and hydroponics, where fish waste is converted to plant food using natural bacterial cycles. Fish produce organic nitrogen that plants love and the plants remove the nitrogen that would otherwise kill the fish. A perfect union is born, living and breathing together to grow healthy food for the community.

“In aquaculture, they have this great nutrient load [fish waste] that they are essentially throwing away and polluting our rivers with,” said Randy. “In aquaponics, we are able to recirculate this

The tallest part of the gravity-fed growing system contains catfish, then the water gets filtered through a growing medium with tomatoes.

Kevin uses a tube to see into the fish tank (while Randy catches them in the net).

Channel catfish that live in the system.

nutrient-rich water to feed our plants. The nitrogen waste from fish is a very valuable product.”

Unlike modern-day industrial agriculture, aquaponic farming must avoid pesticides and herbicides, creating healthier produce and healthier fish. Aquaponic farmers simply cannot cheat when it comes to organic certification. If plant disease occurs, chemicals added or sprayed can get into the water and kill the fish, the “engine” to any aquaponic system. Therefore, natural methods of pest management must be incorporated, from incorporating plants to attract beneficial insects to spreading diatomaceous earth nearby to keep ants from bringing aphids into the system.

“We don’t have mercury in our system, we don’t have problems with radiation or pesticides on our plants,” said Kevin. “This is probably some of the purest, nicest, nutritious, most edible food you will ever eat.”

For aquaponics, it is important to choose a hardy fish that can handle variable water quality conditions (but still taste good on the plate). The most popular fish for aquaponics around the world is tilapia, but in California it is illegal to have tilapia north of LA County, as they are very invasive. Santa Barbara Aquaponics raises channel catfish. As a small-scale closed system, the catfish are kept exclusively on site and do not pose a threat to local creek inhabitants. While Santa Barbara Aquaponics is not organically certified due to their small size, their practices and materials, inspired by Friendly Aquaponics in Honokaa, Hawaii (USDA Organic Certified), offer a model for future endeavors into commercial organic production.

Their operation runs entirely on alternative energy. Randy was eager to showcase the system’s energy efficiency, a sustainable alternative that diminishes our dependency on oil. “Our system runs on 87 watts of power, as much energy as an old-school light bulb,” said Randy. “It’s all it takes; we don’t need a dieselpowered tractor to till fields, so our energy inputs are very low.”

With regards to water usage, aquaponics is very efficient, partly because a raft system covers the entire water trough surface, keeping evaporation to a minimum. The rafts float on a pool of water, each with little net pots that allow roots to grow through the raft into the water column. With little surface area where water can be lost, the raft system has shown significant advantages for many crop species, particularly leafy greens and small flowering plants. And with roots still intact, this living produce has a very long shelf life, with crops growing in half the time and space of traditional agriculture.

“It’s like having really thick mulch everywhere, with nutrient rich water flowing directly past the plant roots,” said Randy. “This makes it incredibly easy for plants to absorb nutrients without having to expend a lot of energy plowing through soil.”

Raft systems have become a popular choice for aquaponics, being more ergonomic in nature, lighter in weight and ultimately, more customizable. With the ability to custom size and drill holes for plant spacing, the trough of the system can range anywhere from 20 to 80 feet in commercial systems. The rafts are floated from one end of the trough to another like a conveyor belt, and when vegetables are ready to harvest, the entire raft can be easily lifted out and placed on a table.

Randy holds up one of the planting pots growing kale.

Healthy tomatoes on the vine.

The media bed can support taller plants like tomatoes.

However, these systems do not provide much support for taller or heavier plants.

For heavier plants, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, squash and, yes, even corn, media beds are generally a better option. These systems require gravel or similar material, which provide enough structure to set down roots but also provide space between the rocks for air and water movement. Proper media beds are designed to flood and drain so the root systems avoid becoming waterlogged and starved of oxygen, leading to root disease. This occurs by having a water pump on a timer or a bell siphon, which automatically floods and drains the media bed.

“Water movement in this system is important but high oxygen levels are critical,” said Randy. “The air pump injects air at multiple locations to keep oxygen at saturation level, allowing underwater roots to get enough oxygen to survive and not decay.”

To further reduce fossil fuel use in heating and cooling the water, they incorporate a solar hot water panel. When the water gets too cold, a small water pump will turn on automatically and circulate water through the solar panel, making it easy for working homesteaders to monitor. If the water gets too hot, the controller can be reversed, pumping water through the solar panel at night. This will instantly turn the system into an air conditioner.

large commercial farms in order to lighten the impact of modern agricultural practices. Randy’s initial voyage into aquaponics included a setup in a 40-gallon aquarium at home, showcasing the variable nature of this living ecosystem. Overall, aquaponics is very scalable based on space, time and resources, becoming an eye-opening venture into a fully living and breathing backyard (or home aquarium) system.

While they are not currently selling any produce or fish, they will be offering tours and workshops to the general public beginning this fall. A self-proclaimed labor of love, the project has been funded out of pocket, with plans to charge a small fee to offset costs and pay for small improvements. Eager to move sustainable agriculture forward, they hope to inspire others to grow their own food, offering work parties and events on site to showcase the future of farming

“We have a prototype that’s really working. It has incredible potential,” said Kevin. “When we start expanding, we look forward to having volunteers come in, build with us and become part of the community of aquaponicists!”

An automatic feeder feeds the fish once a day, dropping food in for the hungry fish. I got to witness this first hand, peering down the looking hole into an underwater world. Filling the feeder once a week, the fish eat a diet of fish pellets but also enjoy leafy greens and earthworms as well (so save your compost!). In cooler temperatures fish will eat less than in the warm summer months when their metabolism and appetite speed up. The ammonium fish waste is then converted into nitrate via the biofilter, which doubles as the media bed for the bigger plants. Plants absorb the nitrate and return clean water back to the fish, all with moderate supervision.

“While you have to be vigilant, you don’t have to watch it around the clock,” said Kevin. “Keep an eye on the plants; they will tell you if they are not healthy. The fish will do the same.”

Striving to educate others on aquaponics, Kevin and Randy hope to develop techniques that are scalable from backyards to

With the expansion of their harvest and land, they plan to donate food to the local food bank and other charities. From barrel aquaponics and backyard gardens to future farms on hundreds of acres, the versatility of aquaponics is appealing and rapidly expanding. “Think of all the abandoned gas stations or parking lots that could become community farms without having to do all the toxic soil remediation,” said Randy. “It’s pretty mind blowing when you think about the possibilities of growing food in our community.”

In a sense, aquaponics is shifting the imbalance of energy and food dependency to one of food self-sufficiency and independence. This is the power to grow your own food on a different level—moving from the fields to your backyard. And even if you have never had the desire to be a farmer, the idea of playing scientist in your own living laboratory is a powerful concept.

When not rallying for fair food, Rachel Hommel can be spotted at the farmers market, practicing yoga and dancing to the beet of life. She has written for the Santa Barbara Independent, establishing a “Meet Your Farmer” column to celebrate local agrarians.

Kevin holds up one of the floating rafts with the planted net pots.

The Exotic Edible Street Tree Buffet

Santa Barbara’s LesserKnown Culinary Delights

by Scott O’Bar

Scientists currently estimate that there are over 350,000 species of plants in the world—of which between 20,000 and 30,000 are edible. Yet a minute fraction of these edible plants actually find their way onto our plates. A mere three plant species—rice, corn and wheat—make up 60% of the average person’s caloric intake, and just 20 plant species account for 90% of the average person’s total diet.

So, the question is: Why not experience some of the more unusual, delectable delights that nature graciously grants to our gastronomical whims?

Santa Barbara, with its short rainy season concentrated in the winter and its long dry season spanning the summer, is the quintessential Mediterranean climate. As such, Santa Barbara is blessed with a cornucopia of popular Mediterranean edible plants: olives, figs, pomegranates and grapes.

But beyond these familiar favorites are some more exotic edible trees and plants that appreciate our Mediterranean climate. Many of these can be found in the parks and along streets of Santa Barbara.

Carob

There are a couple Mediterranean crops experiencing much-undeserved neglect in California. One such plant is carob. Visit a local health food shop, look for carob powder and then read the label. Chances are the carob powder will not be a product of California. Most likely it will be from Italy or Spain.

Carob trees (Ceratonia siliqua) are medium-sized evergreen trees that grow well in poor soils and produce delicious fruit pods. The pods are protected with a thick brown skin, and contain a sweet pulp that can be eaten fresh or dried, ground and used as carob powder. Carob seeds are the source of a commonly consumed thickening agent in the food industry known as carob bean gum or locust bean gum.

With a rich, bold flavor and a natural sugar content of up to 56%, carob pulp is a popular cocoa substitute. Perhaps carob trees should be more revered (at least in our climate) than the cacao plant, from which cocoa and chocolate are derived. Carob trees produce fruits that are naturally sweet, and they do so in much drier regions than the tropical rainforest environments to which cacao plants are native. Indeed, carob trees naturally grow in areas with less than 10 inches of annual rainfall, and can tolerate periods of extreme heat above 120°.

One drawback of carob trees for the backyard gardener, however, is that they are usually dioecious, meaning that individual trees are either male or female, and not many people with a small area are willing to plant more than one tree.

Despite this drawback, carob trees have been cultivated for thousands of years, and, as a result, many hermaphroditic trees (having male and female flowers on the same tree) have been discovered. One such example is the cultivar “Santa Fe,” which produces reliably in Santa Barbara and is ideal for people with minimal garden space.

Stone Pine

Another common local plant missing from California’s agricultural cornucopia is the stone pine (Pinus pinea), which produces the international pine nut used in Italian cuisine. Due to its unique umbrella-shaped canopy, the pine has earned its other common name, the umbrella pine. The stone pine is a native of the Mediterranean basin. While most pine species produce edible nuts, the nuts from this pine are exceptional—most likely because of their high fat content (up to 70% in dried samples).

The top stone pine–cultivating countries are Spain, Portugal and Italy. However, in our grocery stores we would be lucky to find pine nuts grown in these European countries. Most of the pine nuts found in local supermarkets have been imported from Asia. These pine nuts are most likely produced from the Korean pine (Pinus koraiensis), an edible species native to Asia.

What is more disconcerting, however, is that in places such as China, nuts from such species as Pinus armandii are being added to batches of pine nuts intended for export. Pinus armandii nuts should be considered only marginally edible, and often cause a metallic taste to persist in one’s mouth for days. Despite this risk of “pine mouth,” Asian batches of pine nuts still command a high price on the world market.

Here we have a great opportunity for California farmers. Currently, imported stone pine nuts sell for about $50 per pound. Furthermore, under controlled laboratory conditions, the roots of stone pine seedlings can be intentionally infected with the edible, ectomycorrhizal fungus Tuber borchii, more commonly known as the Bianchetto truffle. In Europe, it sells for about 400 euros per kilogram (about $240 per pound) and is reliably productive. A stone pine plantation could be quite a lucrative endeavor.

Monkey Seeds

Similar to pine nuts are the seeds produced by trees from the Araucaria genus. Santa Barbara is home to many species of Araucaria including the notable species: Araucaria araucana (monkey puzzle), A. bidwillii (bunya-bunya) and A. heterophylla (star pine). All these species produce edible seeds that are about the size of almonds. The monkey puzzle, a native of southern Chile, has especially noteworthy seeds—and considerable crop potential. It is said that 18 mature trees will provide enough food to feed a man year-round. Indeed, the cones on some of these species are enormous. For example, the cones produced by the bunya-bunya are more massive than a pineapple, can weigh up to 15 pounds and can drop from the tree’s canopy at a height of 75 feet. Wear a helmet! Opposite:

Palms

But the fun doesn’t stop there (unless you forget your helmet). Turning to the palm trees of Santa Barbara, we are again blessed with a variety of edible treats. One species that is native to a similar Mediterranean climate region is the Chilean wine palm (Jubaea chilensis). This is the most massive palm species in the world with a near-sequoia-sized trunk. The palm was mostly decimated in its native habitat, because people felled the trees in order to extract their sweet sap, which can be used to produce copious amounts of a delicious palm wine.

Less destructive products of the tree include its fruits and seeds. The fruits have a low moisture content, and thus they have a long shelf life. The orange-yellow ripe fruits have a refreshing, sweet taste reminiscent of the rose apple (Syzygium jambos), which is another species of tree that can be found locally. The seeds of the Chilean wine palm can also be cracked open and eaten. These seed nuts taste virtually identical to coconuts and, in Chile, are called coquitos —Spanish for “miniature coconuts.”

Another noteworthy palm is the jelly palm (Butia odorata), a native of southern Brazil and Uruguay. The fruits of this palm are often juicy and taste somewhat like a mixture of pineapple and apricot.

Other edible palms of minor interest around town include the Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), a native of the

Canary Islands. The fruits barely have any flesh, but taste identical to traditional dates, and are a fun novelty. The Guadalupe palm a native of Guadalupe Island west of Baja California, also produces fruit with an edible pulp that tastes similar to a date.

Even the ubiquitous queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana) produces edible fruit. The orange fruits are much too fibrous to be eaten out of hand, but they have a high sugar content and unique flavor that is irresistible. The solution is to throw a few pounds of the whole fruits into a pot and add water until they are completely submerged. Then they are vigorously boiled and simmered for 1–2 hours and left to cool. The liquid is strained away from the fruits and drunk as a rich beverage that could very easily form the base of a novel liqueur.

Cactus

One more group of plants remains to be recognized in this botanical tour de force: the cacti. Everyone is familiar with the prickly pear cactus, yet the fruits of all cacti are edible and, depending on the species and the individual specimen, can range in taste from barely palatable, to a tomato impostor, to sweet and watermelon-like.

Many species of columnar tree cacti produce excellent fruits. One such example is a plant that is found commonly around town, the apple cactus (Cereus repandus). This cactus produces spineless fruit and has so much potential that the Israelis developed its fruit as an export crop to Europe. The stems of this cactus are also edible, and make a great addition to roasted nachos.

Chilean wine palm at Alameda Park.

Jelly palm at Alice Keck Park.

Prickly pear cactus at the Santa Barbara Mission.

Local specimens, however, are often devoid of fruit—the reason being that the apple cactus is self-incompatible, and thus requires cross-pollination with another, genetically distinct specimen.

Another cactus that could easily have a future in Santa Barbara is known as the sanky cactus (Corryocactus brevistylus). This tree cactus is native to high altitudes of the Andes in southern Peru and northern Chile. It produces softball-sized fruits that have a taste similar to lemons. Already, at least one Peruvian company is using the fruits to create a new bottled beverage. This species could almost put the lemon industry out of business, because it can be grown wherever lemons grow, yet requires a fraction of the water that lemon trees require, and is about 10° F. more cold-tolerant.

A Few More Unusual Species

A couple other species that may have a future in Santa Barbara are the jacket plum (Pappea capensis) and lucuma (Pouteria lucuma). Jacket plum is native throughout southern Africa, including the Mediterranean climate region of the Western Cape in South Africa. The “jacket” surrounding the “plums” splits open as the bright red fruits ripen. The fruits are juicy and sweet, and the seeds have proven to be a good source of biodiesel fuel.

Lucuma is from the Andes Mountains and shares a similar distribution range with the cherimoya (Annona cherimola). Unlike the cherimoya, lucuma has not received much attention from Californians and is relatively nonexistent in this part of the world. However, lucuma can be grown wherever cherimoyas grow, and some of the best cultivars produce softball-sized fruits that taste like roasted sweet potatoes smothered in maple syrup.

Other overlooked edible trees that can be found in the Santa Barbara area include the loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), kaffir plum (Harpephyllum caffrum), mysore fig (Ficus mysorensis var. subrepanda), strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo), Kei apple (Dovyalis caffra), pineapple guava (Acca sellowiana) and the esteemed white sapote (Casimiroa edulis).

The organization Desert Harvesters, based in Tucson, Arizona, teaches people how to utilize the botanical food resources of their urban environment. It is to be hoped that someday soon a similar organization will spring up in Santa Barbara.

Many residents are already very enthusiastic about our local cornucopia. Entire neighborhoods might wish to plant edible street trees and benefit from the hyper-local bounty, while buffering themselves with a food safety net should supply lines be disrupted following the next major earthquake.

Perhaps small cottage industries might spring up, producing such goods as Kei apple jam or queen palm liqueur. Already one local company uses the acorns from our local oak trees as an ingredient in cookies. Santa Barbara’s unique climate is able to sustain the growth of a myriad of edible plants from exotic corners of the globe and can provide tasty entertainment to tourists and locals alike.

Scott O’Bar is a local horticulturist. He is the author of the new book Alternative Crops for Drylands: Proactively Adapting to Climate Change and Water Shortages. For more information about Scott’s mission, and to order a signed copy of his book, visit his website: CropsForDryLands.com

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Beautiful Soup

by Pascale Beale

PHOTOGRAPHY

BY LEELA CYD

“Soup puts the heart at ease, calms down the violence of hunger, eliminates the tension of the day and awakens and refines the appetite.” —Auguste Escoffier

The building was impossibly narrow, 10 feet wide at most. It stood on the corner of a short London street and looked as though someone had shaved threequarters of the structure, leaving only the decorated façade behind. All four floors housed a single restaurant—40 seats tops. Just a few tables on each floor accessed by an impossibly narrow winding staircase that tray-carrying waiters and patrons nervously navigated.

I preferred sitting at the bar on the ground floor. It felt very grown-up. I think I was 13 the first time I had lunch there with my father. He took me there to eat soup. We ate lobster bisque. It was heavenly—the epitome of sophistication in a bowl.

I have been thinking about soup a lot over the past few weeks as I’ve been writing this article, and I realized that particular soups have played a starring role in many of the cities I called home over the past four decades. In each case linked to a restaurant where I would inevitably eat the same dish, that particular soup.

prime ingredients of good living. For soup can do more to lift the spirits and stimulate the appetite than any other one dish.” No wonder that the age-old remedy for a bad cold is a bowl of chicken soup!

“Good soup is one of the prime ingredients of good living. For soup can do more to lift the spirits and stimulate the appetite than any other one dish.”— Louis P. De Gouy

One of my favorite haunts in Los Angeles had a sensational Soupe de Poisson complete with a rustic rouille and garlicky toasts to float on the surface and soak up all the fragrant juices. Another, in Golfe-Juan, France, served a bouillabaisse that many drove across the country for. I remember a particularly chunky-creamy-yet-not-too-rich clam chowder in Newport, Rhode Island, shared at communal tables in a casual deli, and an earthy mushroom soup in a tiny Paris bistro that I would happily travel halfway around the world to get another taste of.

So what is it about soup that is so appealing?

Ask anyone about soup and what sensations it conjures up for them and a reoccurring theme runs through their answers: It reminds them of home, their grandmother, their mother, their youth, being nurtured and comforted. It’s easy to make. It has endless possibilities. It’s easy to eat, and it’s healthy.

As one of the founders of Gourmet magazine, Louis P. De Gouy, wrote in The Soup Book (1949) “Good soup is one of the

I am no exception to the rule. I grew up eating soup almost every day, as my mother had. Fresh vegetable soup, served puréed or in a clear broth. My grandmother made a wonderful vegetable “potage,” a creamy concoction with seasonal vegetables, leeks, shallots, potatoes and a few fresh herbs. She’d add a dollop of crème fraîche in there sometimes for good measure. It was the perfect food after a day out in the snow. I liked dipping a piece of baguette in the soup so that it would soak it up, which is perhaps just how soup got its name. The word comes from suppa and sop, which both mean bread soaked in broth. Isn’t that one of the best parts of eating a bowl of hearty soup?

There are few dishes that can nourish one as completely as soup does. This was the very comment that Anthony Carroccio (founder and president of the Organic Soup Kitchen) made when I spoke to him about why so much of the food they prepare is centered around a hearty bowl of soup. I agree completely—it is a dish that sustains you.

Everyone I have spoken to is nostalgic about this dish. It’s evocative in a manner that is quite personal to each person. Perhaps that’s why, when I unexpectedly found myself around the corner from that very narrow restaurant on that short London street last year, I immediately rushed over to taste that bowl of soup.

I stood aghast in front of the scaffolding that encased the building, the new building. The old one had been demolished—the restaurant and a 130-plus years of culinary history with it—all in the name of progress. What a shame! However, the memory of that soup lingers with me, and perhaps that makes it all the sweeter.

Opposite: Cauliflower Soup with Stilton and Caramelized Pear Chutney

Recipes

Carrot, Orange and Ginger Soup

Carrots and oranges are marvelous together. Quite apart from the same vibrant color, the sweetness and zest of orange juice marries so well with carrots, enhancing their flavor. This soup has verve and the ginger adds a little spiciness to it.

Makes 8 servings

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 1 ⁄ 2 pounds carrots, peeled and chopped into 1-inch pieces

1-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and diced

Zest and juice of 2 oranges

Salt and pepper

4 cups fresh vegetable stock

1 tablespoon butter

2 tablespoons cilantro, chopped

Pour some olive oil into a large saucepan placed over medium heat. Place the carrots, ginger, orange zest and toss to coat the vegetables well. Sprinkle with a little salt and pepper. Cook for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Pour all of the vegetable stock into the saucepan and continue cooking the carrots for another 30 minutes or until tender. Stir in the orange juice and cook for a few minutes more.

Carefully purée the carrots and stock in batches in a food processor (you get the smoothest soup using this method) but you can also use an immersion blender. If you are using the latter, leave the soup in the saucepan. Pour the puréed soup back into the saucepan if you puréed it in the food processor. Just before serving stir the butter into the soup, check the seasoning, adding a little more salt and pepper if needed. Sprinkle the cilantro on top of each bowl.

Note: A vegetable stock made with red onions, a couple of carrots and a leek makes a wonderful base for this soup.

Cauliflower Soup with Stilton and Caramelized Pear Chutney

This recipe was inspired by Skye Gyngell and a gorgonzola version she has in her book A Year in My Kitchen. I love the mixture of cauliflower with blue cheese and the added pop of the pear chutney creates a tasty juxtaposition between salty and sweet.

Makes 8–10 servings

Olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

2 medium-sized onions, peeled and finely chopped

4 shallots, peeled and finely chopped

4–6 sprigs thyme

2 cauliflowers, leaves trimmed away, florets separated and roughly chopped

1 bay leaf

8 cups vegetable or chicken stock

Salt and pepper

6 ounces Stilton (or other type of blue cheese)

4 tablespoons crème fraîche

Pour a little olive oil and the butter into a large saucepan placed over medium heat. Once the butter has melted, add in the onions, shallots and the thyme, and cook until the onions are soft and translucent, about 5–7 minutes. Add in the cauliflower, bay leaf, stock and season with some salt and pepper. Simmer for 20–30 minutes or until the cauliflower is completely soft.

Remove the bay leaf from the soup, add in the Stilton and then process the soup either in a blender or with an immersion blender until the soup is completely smooth. Whisk in the crème fraîche and keep the soup warm until you are ready to serve it. Serve the soup in warm bowls with a spoonful of the pear chutney in the middle of each bowl.

FOR THE PEAR CHUTNEY

1 ⁄ 3 cup dried golden raisins

1 pinch saffron

2 tablespoons butter

3 pears, cored, peeled and chopped

1 ⁄4 cup apple cider

2 tablespoons sugar

3 sprigs lemon thyme

Zest of 1 lemon

1 cinnamon stick

Coarse sea salt and pepper

Soak the saffron in a small bowl of hot water with the dried fruit for 10 minutes. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan and add the remaining ingredients and any liquid from soaking the dried fruit. Cook for 5 minutes. Add in the dried fruit and saffron and cook for a further 10 minutes. You should have a soft golden mixture. Season with some coarse salt and pepper.

Roasted Parsnip Soup with a Sauté of Wild Mushrooms

Makes 8–10 servings

2 large onions, peeled and diced

2 pounds parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

4 shallots, peeled and roughly diced

1 ⁄4 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon cumin

Salt and pepper

8 cups vegetable stock

1 tablespoon chives, finely chopped

1 tablespoon butter

8 ounces chanterelles (or other wild mushrooms, shiitakes work well), cleaned and thinly sliced

Preheat oven to 400°. Place all the onions, parsnips and shallots into a large roasting pan. Combine the olive oil and cumin in a small bowl and then pour over the vegetables and toss to coat well in the pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place in the oven and roast for 25 minutes.

Pour all of the vegetable stock (or chicken stock) into the roasting pan and continue cooking the parsnips (covered with a piece of foil) for another 35 minutes.

Once the parsnips are fully cooked, carefully remove the pan from the oven. Purée the soup with either an immersion blender or in batches in a food processor until you have a very smooth soup. If you are using the later, be careful not to overfill the bowl of the processor. If the soup is very thick, add a little extra vegetable broth when you purée it.

Keep the soup warm in the pan until you are ready to serve it. Just before serving, stir the chives into the soup so that they are well dispersed. Melt the butter in a medium-sized skillet placed over medium-high heat. Sauté the chanterelles until they are golden brown; set aside.

Ladle the soup into small soup bowls (this soup is very hearty so a small bowl is the perfect size) and spoon some of the mushrooms, and the juices from the pan they cooked in, on top of the soup in each bowl.

Pascale Beale grew up in England and France surrounded by a family that has always been passionate about food, wine and the arts. She was taught to cook by her French mother and grandmother. She is the author of A Menu for All Seasons—Spring, A Menu for All Seasons—Summer, A Menu for All Seasons—Fall and A Menu for All Seasons—Winter. Visit her website at PascalesKitchen.com.

SEPTEMBER

FALL EDIBLE EVENTS

SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 21

Chicken Dinner at Bell Street Farm

6pm at Bell Street Farm, Los Alamos

On the third Saturday of each month, enjoy a prix-fixe chicken dinner at Bell Street Farm. Start with an endless antipasti bar, followed by a family-style rotisserie complete chicken dinner and dessert. $40 per person, not including tax or gratuity. For reservations, call 805 3444609; BellStreetFarm.com. Ongoing.

OCTOBER

Edible Santa Barbara

SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 15

Table of Life Gala Luncheon

11:30am–2:30pm, Pacifica Graduate Institute, Fleischmann Estate

Funds raised will support Foodbank’s award-winning Feed the Future programs, a continuum of innovative programs that foster nutritional health and independence in children from preschool to high school graduation. For more information and tickets contact 805 967-5741; FoodBankSBC.org

SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 28

Santa Barbara County Local Fest

11am–10pm at Ken Adam Park in Lompoc

Santa Barbara County Local Fest highlights local: music, food, beer and art. There will be a home brew competition, local food, gourmet food trucks and more. SBCLocalFest.com

CHA

FRIDAY–SUNDAY OCTOBER 4–6

27th Annual California Avocado Festival

Linden Ave. in Carpinteria

Eat your way through the delicious food galleria, enjoy fantastic music and entertainment, visit the kids’ block party, browse the arts and crafts and Avocado Expo Tent and watch or take part in the famous guacamole contest. Free admission; 805 684-0038; AvoFest.com

WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 18

Three Year Anniversary Celebration

11am–3:30pm, Fresco Valley Café in Solvang

Join in the celebration of Fresco’s first three years with local live music on the patio and $3 beer and wine specials all afternoon. 805 688-8857; FrescoValleyCafe.com

SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 28

SOL Food Festival

10am–6pm at Plaza Vera Cruz Park, 130 East Cota St. (across the street from the Santa Barbara Farmers Market)

A one-day community festival to celebrate farmers, chefs, businesses, organizations and individuals who are dedicated to a sustainable, organic, local food future. Free admission; 805 450-2357; SOLFoodFestival.com

OCTOBER 1–31

Eat Local Challenge

In conjunction with epicure.sb, Edible Santa Barbara, the Santa Barbara Farmers Market and the Community Environmental Council (CEC) are co-sponsoring an Eat Local Challenge for the month of October. For more info visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com and join the Facebook Group and RSVP for the event at Eat Local Challenge.

SATURDAY OCTOBER 5

Figtoberfest 2nd Annual ProAM Homebrew Competition

11am–10pm at Figueroa Mountain Brewery, Buellton Figueroa Mountain Brewery and Valley Brewers co-sponsor this popular homebrew competition. Taste the winning beers, meet the brewers, and enjoy live music. $40; for tickets call Valley Brewers at 805 691-9159 or Figueroa Mountain at 805 694-2252.

FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 20

Edible Santa Barbara Fall Issue Release Party

5–7pm at Telegraph Brewing

Join us to celebrate the release of the fall issue of Edible Santa Barbara and the upcoming Eat Local Challenge. Pick up a copy of the new issue and mingle with the Edible team. Free admission. Local beer and food available for purchase.

SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 28

Figtoberfest

11am–9pm at the Santa Barbara Taproom in the Funk Zone, 137 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara

Figueroa Mountain Brewing’s Oktoberfest event complete with music, German style beer and food. Proceeds benefit the Surfrider Foundation. For more information call 805 694-2255 or email zoe@FigMtnBrew.com.

THURSDAY

OCTOBER 3

First Thursday

5–8pm; downtown Santa Barbara

The tastings, art and performance of this First Thursday are part of epicure. sb, the monthlong celebration of cuisine, libations and culture in Santa Barbara County, with the theme this year of “local ingredients.” 805 962-2098; EpicureSB.com

SATURDAY OCTOBER 5

Sanford Winery Harvest Party

11am–4pm at Sanford Winery, Lompoc Celebrate harvest at Sanford Winery with wine tasting, a BBQ, winery tours, vineyard haywagon rides, live music and more. $30 per person. 800 426-9463; SanfordWinery.com.

FRIDAY

OCTOBER 4

Gainey Vineyard Farmer’s Market

4:30–7pm at Gainey Vineyard, Santa Ynez

Enjoy a glass of Gainey wine while perusing the stalls of many local vendors of fresh produce and prepared foods. Hayrides through the vineyards and live music will add to the fun of this bi-yearly event. 805 688-0558; GaineyVineyard.com

WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 9

Paella Night

Cava Restaurant & Bar, Montecito

A weekly (every Wednesday) event. A 3-course Spanish dinner is offered and includes a glass of house-made Sangria or Segura Viudas Brut Cava and live flamenco guitar. $35. For reservations call 805 969-8500. CavaRestaurant.com

THURSDAY OCTOBER 10

5th Annual Sensational Seafood

5:30–7:30pm at Stearns Wharf

Savor sustainability as you taste the wonderful variety of local seafood and watch expert chefs prepare it. Taste local wines and meet local fishermen and chefs who are leading the way to a more sustainable future. 805 682-4711; SBNature.org

SATURDAY OCTOBER 26

Santa Maria-Style BBQ

Los Olivos Grocery, 2621 Hwy. 154, Santa Ynez

Santa Maria-style oak pit BBQ—chicken, ribs and tri-tip are offered weekly, Friday through Sunday (ongoing.) Price for BBQ: $8.99–$11.99. Enjoy with a glass of local wine on the patio. 805 688-5115

FRIDAY OCTOBER 11

Foxen Winemaker Dinner

Root 246 in Solvang

Join Foxen winemakers Bill Wathen and Dick Doré (along with wives Becky and Jenny) for a special evening to kick off the Celebration of Harvest Weekend. For reservations, please call Root 246 at 805 686-8681.

SATURDAY OCTOBER 12

Alta Maria Winemaker Dinner

6:30 at Trattoria Uliveto, Orcutt

Join Alta Maria Vineyards winemakers Paul Wilkins & James Ontiveros for a multi-course Italian menu matched with Alta Maria Wines. Space is limited; for more info or to RSVP: Stephanie@ altamaria.com or 805 686-1144.

SATURDAY OCTOBER 26

Riverbench Wine Dinner

Wine Cask Restaurant, Santa Barbara Join Wine Cask Executive Chef Brandon Hughes and Riverbench Vineyards General Manager Laura Booras for a special night filled with elegant wine and delicious food made with only the freshest, finest local ingredients. Five course menu $95 per person all inclusive. Reservations: call 805 937-8340 or email Krysta@riverbench.com.

SUNDAY NOVEMBER 3

Empty Bowls Santa Barbara

NOVEMBER

Three seatings: 11am, noon and 1pm, Rockwood Woman’s Club

A benefit for the Foodbank of Santa Barbara County, in an effort to make an immediate difference in our community, through the art of pottery and the power of people learning to feed each other. Get your tickets early. 805 967-5741; EmptyBowlsSantaBarbara.com

SATURDAY OCTOBER 12

Celebration of Harvest 1–4pm at Rancho Sisquoc Winery in Santa Maria Celebrate the 2012 Harvest with all 100+ winery members while strolling the beautiful historic grounds of Rancho Sisquoc Winery. Taste local, regional produce interpreted by dozens of the area’s finest restaurants, catering companies and gourmet food creators. 805 688-0881; SBCountyWines.com

SUNDAY OCTOBER 13

Open House & Library Wine Sale

11am–3pm, Au Bon Climat & Qupé Winery, 4665 Santa Maria Mesa Rd., Santa Maria

Enjoy a rare opportunity to come visit the ABC/Qupe winery for lunch with winemakers Jim Clendenen and Bob Lindquist; sample current releases and library wines. $20 (free for wine club members); reservations are not needed.

SUNDAY OCTOBER 27

Taste of the Central Coast 3pm at Bacara Resort & Spa

The Family Care Network presents the 3rd annual Santa Barbara County Taste of the Central Coast, a fine food and wine tasting event paired with a silent and live auction to benefit children and families affected by trauma. $85 per person; 805 503-6269; TasteOfTheCentralCoast.com

SATURDAY NOVEMBER 9

Zaca Mesa Open House 11am–4pm at Zaca Mesa Winery

Celebrate fall harvest with local purveyors here showcasing their goods. Local bread, honey, jelly, olive oils, chefs preparing signature appetizers, new wine releases and more. 805 688-9339; ZacaMesa.com

SATURDAY OCTOBER 12

12th Annual Santa Barbara Harbor & Seafood Festival

10am–5pm at 132-A Harbor Way

Santa Barbara

Seafood lovers of all ages to can go to the Harbor for delectable regional seafood specialties, cooking demonstrations, interactive maritime education, boat rides, live music and more. Free admission. 805 897-1962; HarborFestival.org

SATURDAY OCTOBER 19

Santa Barbara Beer Festival noon–4pm at Elings Park, 1298 Las Positas Rd., Santa Barbara Enjoy more than 40 local and regional breweries, food and music at Santa Barbara’s oldest beer festival. Proceeds go toward Elings Park and the Santa Barbara Rugby Association. $50 advance purchase and $60 after October 12. Designated driver tickets available. 21 and up only. SBBeerFestival.com

WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 30

Edible Santa Barbara Supper Club

7pm at Sama Sama

The Supper Club brings together a small group of people for prix fixe dinners at one of the restaurants in our Dining Guide. Join us for a special Eat Local Challenge dinner. For details and tickets visit the Events section on EdibleSantaBarbara.com.

SATURDAY NOVEMBER 23

Standing Sun Wines

“Live in the Winery“ Singer Songwriter Series

7–10 pm at Standing Sun Wines, Buellton Roem Baur is the musician for Standing Sun Wines ongoing songwriter and music series. $10 cover; $5–$7 glasses of wine, $6 tacos plates. Ongoing. Check the winery website for more music events. StandingSunWines.com; 805 904-8072.

Dining Guide edible

Santa Barbara County has its own unique food traditions—from Santa Maria barbecue to Santa Barbara spot prawns and the world-class local wines that accompany them—so we’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants that create the distinctively Santa Barbara dining experience. Restaurants are invited to advertise in this guide because of their emphasis on local, seasonal ingredients and their commitment to real food.

South County

Arlington Tavern

21 W. Victoria St.

Santa Barbara 805 770-2626

ArlingtonTavern.com

Offering a winning combination of local, farm-fresh fare, exceptional service and a unique relationship between beer, wine and food. Chef Ron True crafts his seasonal menu using only the highest-quality, simple and honest ingredients. Farm Friendly Dinning Certified. Dinner Mon–Sat 5–10pm, Sun 5–9pm; bar 4pm–midnight, Sun 4–10pm.

Backyard Bowls

Santa Barbara Locations: 331 Motor Way 805 845-5379

3849 State St., La Cumbre 805 569-0011

Goleta Location: 5668 Calle Real 805 770-2730

BackyardBowls.com

Santa Barbara’s most innovative breakfast and lunch spot featuring Acai Bowls and smoothies. They also offer oatmeal, yogurt and more.

Book Ends Café

602 Anacapa St., (upper patio)

Santa Barbara 805 963-3222

Book Ends Café offers unique handcrafted sandwiches and seasonal selections of farm-fresh salads, quiches and treats, all prepared with ingredients sourced from local farmers. Enjoy organic, fair-trade coffee while sitting on the secret and tranquil rooftop patio. Mon–Thu 8am–6:15pm; Fri–Sat 8am–2pm.

Bouchon

9 W. Victoria St.

Santa Barbara 805 730-1160

BouchonSantaBarbara.com

Bouchon sources all of its ingredients using an “as-freshand-as-local-as-possible” approach. Experience fine dining, excellent regional wines and relaxed service in a warm, inviting ambience. Private dining in the Cork Room is available for groups of 10–20. Dinner nightly 5–10pm.

Carlitos

Café y Cantina

1324 State St.

Santa Barbara 805 962-7117

Carlitos.com

Enjoy fresh Mexican cuisine across from the historic Arlington Theatre on State Street in a sun-filled patio while the beautiful dining room features lovely views and a Cantina stocked with 100% Blue Agave tequilas. Member Santa Barbara Sustainable Seafood Program. Open daily 11am–10pm.

Cava Restaurant & Bar

1212 Coast Village Rd. Montecito 805 969-8500

CavaRestaurant.com

Experience the bold flavors of superb Latin cuisine from Spain, Mexico and South America in a romantic setting in Montecito. Member Santa Barbara Sustainable Seafood Program. Open daily 11am–11pm; Sunday brunch 10am–3pm.

C’est Cheese

825 Santa Barbara St. Santa Barbara 805 965-0318

CestCheese.com

In addition to being a local source for the finest cheeses and artisanal foods, C’est Cheese also serves lunch— sandwiches, soups, salads and, of course, grilled cheese sandwiches. Mon–Fri 10am–6pm. Sat 8am–6pm. Closed Sun.

Cielito Restaurant

1114 State St.

Santa Barbara

805 965-4770

CielitoRestaurant.com

Chef Ramon Velazquez explores his passion for Mexican- and Latin American–inspired cuisine with bold, sophisticated flavors showcasing the highest-quality, seasonal ingredients from land and sea. Full bar, awardwinning wine list. Lunch, happy hour, dinner. Private dining available. Tue–Sun 11:30am–2:30pm; Tue–Wed, Sun 5–9pm; Thu–Sat 5–10pm.

Giannfranco’s

Trattoria

666 Linden Ave. Carpinteria 805 684-0720

Giannfrancos.com

Experience authentic Italian regional cuisine at this family-owned and -operated trattoria in downtown Carpinteria. Chef Giovanni prepares each dish from the freshest local and imported foods to offer his creative take on Tuscan grill specialties. Weekday lunch served 11am–3pm. Weekend lunch served noon–3pm. Dinner served 5–9pm. Closed Tuesday.

Goodland Kitchen & Market

231 S. Magnolia Ave. Old Town Goleta 805 845-4300

GoodlandKitchen.com

The Goodland Market is a grab-and-go eatery in Old Town Goleta, specializing in delicious, locally sourced and affordable meals. They prepare food in small batches and utilize produce from local farmers to provide an exceptional culinary experience. Mon–Fri 8am–2:30pm; Sat 8:30–2:30pm.

The Lark

131 Anacapa St.

Santa Barbara 805 284-0370

TheLarkSB.com

The Lark offers a new dining experience in the heart of the Funk Zone, featuring artisanal and seasonal ingredients that celebrate our local community. Enjoy dinner and drinks in the architecturally urban-inspired dining room, at the communal table, the bar or out on the patio by the fire. Open for dinner Tue–Sun 5–10pm; until 11pm on Fri and Sat.

Lucky Penny

131 Anacapa St.

Santa Barbara 805 284-0358

LuckyPennySB.com

The Lucky Penny take-away café offers wood-fired pizza, artisan coffee, handmade pastries, seasonal salads, fresh squeezed juices, beer and wine. Enjoy your meal onsite in the picnic area or grab it to go. The perfect place to stop as you meander along the Urban Wine Trail in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner 7am–9pm seven days a week.

Renaud’s Patisserie & Bistro

Loreto Plaza at 3315 State St.

Santa Barbara 805 569-2400

Arlington Plaza at 1324 State St.

Santa Barbara 805 892-2800

RenaudsBakery.com

Renaud’s is a bakery specializing in French pastries and French-style cakes, as well as a bistro offering an extensive menu for lunch and dinner. Open Mon–Sat 7am–5pm, Sunday 7am–3pm.

Sama Sama Kitchen

1208 State St., Santa Barbara 805 965-4566

SamaSamaKitchen.com

Sama Sama creates meals inspired by Indonesian food and local farms and markets. Their food and cocktail menu is constantly changing depending on availability from our local sources. They are locally owned and operated and part of the Shelter Social Club family. Tue–Fri 11:30am–2pm and 5:30–10pm; Sat 5:30–10pm; Sun Brunch 10am–3pm.

edible

Silvergreens

791 Chapala St.

Santa Barbara 805 962-8500

900 Embarcadero del Mar

Isla Vista 805 961-1700

Silvergreens.com

Committed to sustainability and nutrition, Silvergreens offers a made-from-scratch menu with soups, salads and sandwiches using fresh, local ingredients. They are also Santa Barbara’s first Certififed Green Restaurant. Catering and School Lunch Program available.

Simply Pies

5392 Hollister Ave. Santa Barbara 805 845-2200

SimplyPiesSB.com

The pie cottage offers sweet and savory pies, quiches and salads handcrafted with fresh, local organic ingredients. Vegan, gluten free and sugar-free options. Open Tue–Fri 7:30am–5:30pm; Sat 10am–5:30pm.

Sly’s

686 Linden Ave. Carpinteria 805 684-6666

SlysOnline.com

Sly’s is known for great food, with an emphasis on farmers market and local produce, great cocktails and great times in Carpinteria. Open Mon–Fri for lunch 11:30am–3pm, lounge menu weekdays 3–5pm; dinner Sun–Thu 5–9pm; Fri and Sat 5–10pm; and weekend brunch & lunch Sat–Sun 9am–3pm.

Sojourner Café

134 E. Cañon Perdido St.

Santa Barbara 805 965-7922

SojournerCafe.com

The Sojourner has been serving unique dishes created with wholesome natural ingredients for 35 years. They purchase organic produce from local growers, carry local wines and beers and are known for their innovative desserts. Serving lunch, dinner and weekend brunch 7 days a week.

The Wine Cask

813 Anacapa St. Santa Barbara 805 966-9463

WineCask.com

The Wine Cask Restaurant features the freshest local ingredients, the best wine list in town, and seasonal signature cocktails. They offer fine dining in their exquisite Gold Room and casual dining in the courtyard, and at their Intermezzo bar. Lunch: Tue–Fri 11:30am–3pm.

Dinner: Tue–Sun from 5:30pm. Last seating at 9pm Sun–Thu, 10pm Fri–Sat.

North County

Bell Street Farm

Eatery & Market

406 Bell St.

Los Alamos

805 344-4609

BellStreetFarm.com

With farm-fresh cuisine and sophisticated yet comfortable design, Bell Street Farm offers a distinct environment to enjoy a meal, snack or a wine tasting. The market showcases picnic baskets and accessories for creating a portable meal, as well as gifts and merchandise from local artisans. Open Fri–Mon 10am–6pm.

Cecco Ristorante

475 First St.

Solvang

805 688-8880

CeccoRistorante.com

Award-winning Chef David Cecchini offers rustic Italian cuisine, handmade fresh pasta, artisan pizza from an authentic wood-burning oven, grilled meats, seafood, salads, an extensive wine list including Santa Ynez Valley & Italian varietals, plus premium draft beers. Reservations accepted. Open 11:30am–3pm & 5–9pm.

Dos Carlitos Restaurant & Tequila Bar

3544 Sagunto St.

Santa Ynez

805 688-0033

DosCarlitosRestaurant.com

Dos Carlitos offers inspired Mexican and Latin cuisine handcrafted from the freshest ingredients to accompany its award-winning 100% Blue Agave margaritas. Dos Carlitos is a place to enjoy friends and family in a relaxed outdoor patio or casual indoor setting. Member Santa Barbara Sustainable Seafood Program. Open daily 11am–10pm.

Fresco Valley Café

442 Atterdag Rd.

Solvang

805 688-8857

FrescoValleyCafe.com

Fresco Valley Café offers a broad menu of dishes made from scratch using homemade family recipes and organic and fresh local ingredients. You will also find fresh pastries, a fine list of local beer and wine and a plentiful catering menu. Wed 11am–3:30pm; Thu–Sat 11am–8:30 pm; Sun 11am–3:30 pm.

Full of Life Flatbread

225 W. Bell St. Los Alamos

805 344-4400

FullofLifeFoods.com

On weekends Full of Life Flatbread converts their production flatbread bakery space into a restaurant and offers an extremely innovative menu based almost entirely on what is grown locally and in season. Open Thu–Sat 5–10pm; Sun 4–8pm.

SANTA BARBARA SUPPER CLUB

Our next Supper Club will be held on Wednesday, October 30 at Sama Sama in Santa Barbara.

For details, sign up for our email newsletter and visit the Events section on EdibleSantaBarbara.com

Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café

2879 Grand Ave., Los Olivos 805 688-7265

LosOlivosCafe.com

The Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café brings together the best flavors of the Central Coast. Their award-winning wine list offers over 500 wines, primarily from Central Coast winemakers, to enjoy with their fresh, seasonal and local cuisine, or to enjoy at home. Open for lunch and dinner daily 11:30am–8:30pm.

Succulent Café

Wine Charcuterie 1555 Mission Drive Solvang 805 691-9444

SucculentCafe.com

Succulent Café is a newly renovated family-owned business specializing in handcrafted and artisan culinary goods. Featuring buttermilk biscuit breakfast sandwiches, gourmet sandwiches and salads at lunch and unique local-centric plates at dinner. Breakfast Wed–Monday 8:30am–1:00, Lunch Wed–Monday 11am–2:30pm, Dinner Wed–Sun 5:30–9pm. Charcuterie bar open every day.

The Baker’s Table

3563 Numancia St. Santa Ynez 805 688-4856

TheBakers-Table.com

The Baker’s Table offers artisanal baked goods handcrafted from organic, local and fair-trade ingredients. The café incorporates carefully selected, high quality ingredients in order to offer soups, salads and sandwiches to feed the body and soul. Open Tue–Sat 7:30am–2:30pm.

The Hitching Post II

406 E. Highway 246 Buellton 805 688-0676

HitchingPost2.com

From Santa Maria–style barbecue to more contemporary cuisine such as smoked duck breast, ostrich, homemade soups and outstanding pastries, The Hitching Post II also offers their own world-class Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Wines. Open daily except major holidays. Cocktails/wine tasting Mon–Fri at 4pm, Sat–Sun at 3pm. Dinners only Mon–Fri 5–9:30pm, Sat–Sun 4–9:30pm.

edible Source Guide

The Edible Source Guide is a compact listing of all of our advertisers. Please visit them to pick up your free copy of the magazine and let them know how much you appreciate their support of Edible Santa Barbara.

BREWERIES AND DISTILLERIES

American Harvest

American Harvest vodka is handcrafted in small batches from organic American winter wheat and water from deep beneath the Snake River Plain. AmericanHarvestSpirit.com

Figueroa Mountain Brewery

Quality craft beer has been the focus of family-owned “Fig Mt Brew” since they started production in 2010. Try their famous Davy Brown Ale or Hoppy Poppy IPA at their flagship tasting room and beer garden in Buellton (45 Industrial Way, Open Mon–Thu 1–9pm and Fri–Sat 11am–9pm) or their new tasting room in the Funk Zone in Santa Barbara (137 Anacapa, Suite F, open daily 11am–9pm). 805 694-2252; info@FigMtnBrew.com

Island Brewing Company

Island Brewing Company is a family-run, award-winning microbrewery in Carpinteria, serving beer enthusiasts, bars and restaurants along the Central Coast. They feature an assortment of fresh, flavorful ales, along with seasonal releases, cask ales and occasional barrel-aged offerings. Open daily. 5049 6th St., Carpinteria; 805 745-8272; IslandBrewingCompany.com

Telegraph Brewing Company

Handcrafting unique American ales that embrace the heritage of California’s early brewing pioneers and use as many locally grown ingredients as possible. Visit the tasting room at 418 N. Salsipuedes Street, Santa Barbara , Thursday 4–6pm, Friday 4–8pm, Saturday 2–6pm. Telegraph beer is available at many restaurants and grocery stores in Santa Barbara County and throughout California. TelegraphBrewing.com

CATERERS AND PRIVATE CHEFS

Le Petit Chef

Personal chef, private parties, cooking lessons. With her Weekly Meal Delivery service, Le Petit Chef now proudly offers healthy, gourmet, seasonally inspired dishes delivered to your door every Tuesday and Thursday. Sign up via email to receive weekly menu updates at denisse@lepetitchefsb.com. 805 637-3899; LePetitChefSB.com

Main Course California

Main Course California is a creative, service-driven catering company that specializes in sustainable, from-scratch cuisine and personalized care. They are dedicated to food that is sustainable and delicious—specializing in off-site catering for private parties, corporate events and weddings. 805 658-8900; MainCourseCA.com

New West Catering

Uniting the artistry of fine restaurant cuisine with the versatility of full-service catering, New West Catering is your unparalleled choice for special events in the Santa Barbara County wine country and beyond. 805 688-0991; NewWestCatering.com

Nimita’s Cuisine

Nimita Dhirajlal delights in sharing the art of Indian vegetarian cooking using organic, local ingredients. She offers classes, catering, weekly deliveries, as well as prepared foods such as curry, daal, chutney and raita. NimitasCuisine.com

COMMERCIAL KITCHEN SPACE

Goodland Kitchen

Goodland Kitchen, located in downtown Goleta, rents the use of its licensed and insured facility on an hourly basis to local food producers and re-packagers. It is also available as a teaching venue and for special event food processing. 805 845-4300; GoodlandKitchen.com

FARMERS MARKETS

Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market

Eight markets, six days a week. See schedule on page 19. 805 962-5354; SBFarmersMarket.org

FARMS AND RANCHES

Drake Family Farms

Making locally produced farmstead artisan goat cheese in Ontario, California. At Drake Family Farms every goat has a name and their goat cheeses are made on the farm with milk exclusively from the farm’s own animals. Available at local farmers markets and at DrakeFamilyFarms.com

Ellwood Canyon Farms

Ellwood Canyon Farms grows a wide variety of seasonal vegetables, fruits, herbs and flowers that they sell directly to the local community through their CSA program, farmers markets and their farm produce stand. EllwoodCanyonFarms.com

The Center for Urban Agriculture at Fairview Gardens

Fairview Gardens is a non-profit organization that was established in 1997 to preserve and operate the historic farm where their products are grown. Farm stand is open daily 10am–6pm at 598 N. Fairview Ave., Goleta; 805 967-7369; FairviewGardens.org

Fat Uncle Farms

Fat Uncle Farms grows almonds in Wasco, just northwest of Bakersfield, and they sell fresh whole raw almonds as well as roasted and flavored almonds and many other almond products at the Saturday, Tuesday, Friday and Thursday farmers markets. 866 290-0219; FatUncleFarms.wordpress.com

Montecito Urban Farms

Supplying restaurants and now open to the public for high quality local living produce. Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun 10am–4pm. 2352 Lillie Ave., Summerland; 805 500-6831; MontecitoUrbanFarms.com

Rancho Olivos

Located in beautiful Santa Ynez, Rancho Olivos creates distinctively fresh artisan extra virgin olive oils from their sustainably grown Italian and Spanish varietals of olives. Open for olive oil tasting daily noon–4pm. 805 686-9653; RanchOlivos.com

Rancho San Julian Beef

Rancho San Julian Beef produces high quality beef from cattle raised humanely and healthfully on an agriculturally sustainable ranch in Santa Barbara County. Available at the following farmers markets: Saturday in Santa Barbara 8:30am–12:30pm, Tuesday in Santa Barbara 3–6:30pm and Friday in Montecito 8–11:30am as well as at RSJBeef.com

FOOD PRODUCTS

Goodland Chai Company

Goodland Chai offers the perfect blend of tea, spices and organic sugar in a bulk chai tea that is full-bodied, full of flavor without being overly sweet—what chai should taste like. GoodlandChaiCo.com

Green Star Coffee

Green Star Coffee sources only the finest Certified Organic Fair Trade coffees and teas from the premier growing regions around the world. GreenStarCoffee.com

Joëlle Olive Oil

Joëlle Olive Oil offers a full line of fresh, cold-pressed, extravirgin olive oil estate grown in California. Award winning in international competitions, all of their oils are unfiltered, extravirgin and date-stamped for year of production. JoelleOil.com

GROCERY STORES & PRODUCE DELIVERY

Isla Vista Food Co-op

A community-owned food co-op open to the public and highly regarded for its sustainable business practices and high-quality foods. Highlighting tri-county local, organic, fair-trade, farmer-owned, vegan, vegetarian, kosher, raw, gluten-free and all-around sustainable ways of being. Open daily 8am–10pm. 6575 Seville Rd., Isla Vista. 805 968-1401; IslaVistaFood.coop

Lazy Acres

Santa Barbara’s best source for wholesome, natural and organic foods and products with real people dedicated to providing unmatched personal service. Monday–Saturday, 7am–11pm, Sunday 7am–10pm. 302 Meigs Rd., Santa Barbara; 805 5644410; LazyAcres.com

Los Olivos Grocery

Los Olivos Grocery offers a wide selection of local products, wines, beers and produce. Their delicatessen is a valley favorite, with a wide lunch menu. Breakfast is served on their enclosed patio. Friday, Saturday and Sunday, BBQ is offered. Open daily 7am–9pm; 2621 W. Highway 154, Santa Ynez; 805 688-5115; LosOlivosGrocery.com

New Frontiers Natural Marketplace

New Frontiers Natural Marketplace is a full service natural foods grocery store and deli. Located in Solvang at 1984 Old Mission Dr. (corner of Alamo Pintado and Mission Dr.); 805 693-1746; NewFrontiersMarket.com

Plow to Porch Organics

Local organic/pesticide free/chemical free and all natural produce delivery service and organic market. The market carries a wide array of seasonal and local food products, located at 3204 State St. (walk through Buddha's Garden), Santa Barbara. Open Monday–Friday 10am–7pm. 805 895-7171; PlowToPorch.com

Santa Barbara Public Market

The Santa Barbara Public Market, located in the heart of the performing and cultural arts district, will house handcrafted, regionally sourced and sustainably made food and wine. With an ardent focus on local farms and artisanal ingredients, the Santa Barbara Public Market will present residents and visitors alike with a well stocked pantry for daily foraging.

SBPublicMarket.com

Whole Foods Market

Founded in 1980 in Austin, Texas, Whole Foods Market, a leader in the natural and organic foods industry and America’s first national certified organic grocer, was named “America’s Healthiest Grocery Store” in 2008 by Health magazine. 3761 State St., Santa Barbara; 805 837-6959; WholeFoodsMarket.com

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

American Riviera Bank

Offering a local and sustainable approach to banking. The founders of American Riviera Bank are a carefully selected group of successful, prominent, experienced and influential community and business leaders who understand the unique needs of the Santa Barbara community. Monday–Thursday 8am–5pm, Friday 8am–6pm. 1033 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara; 805 965-5942. AmericanRivieraBank.com

Center For Sustainable Medicine

Specializing in nutrition, allergies, weight management, women’s health and preventative medicine. Dr. Andrea Seiffertt, DO, osteopathic physician, board certified in internal medicine, certified Ayurvedic practitioner. 136 W. Cota St., Santa Barbara; 805 966-0055; CenterForSustainableMedicine.com

Community West Bank

Five, full-service branch offices in Santa Maria, Goleta, Santa Barbara, Ventura and Westlake Village. With an emphasis on business banking, they offer a full range of commercial and retail banking services, focusing on mid-market companies and their owners/operators, agriculture, manufacturers, wholesalers, distributors, technology companies, service companies and retailers. CommunityWestBank.com

Nimita’s Cuisine

Nest

Nest is an integrative medicine spa combining the best of conventional and natural therapies. Dr. Kristi Wrightson ND, RD along with her staff of professionals offer services from preventative primary care to anti-aging treatments, specializing in women's health and hormones, optimal weight control and detoxification. 523 Chapala St., #2, Santa Barbara; 805 770-2607

Patricia Figueredo Interior Design

From kitchen design to residential and commercial interior design, Patricia Figueredo Interior Design provides innovative and quality design services in Santa Barbara County and beyond. Call for more information 760 459-2522; FigueredoInteriorDesign.com

Scent From Heaven

Amy Bacheller, M.Ed, NC, CMT is honored to offer classes, private consults and individual healing sessions in Santa Barbara as part of her Scent From Heaven holistic healing practice. Amy specializes in essential oils and raw foods. 415 450-5000; ScentFromHeaven-SB.com

RESTAURANTS— Edible Dining Guide

A listing of Local Restaurants on page 70.

SPECIALTY RETAILERS & PRODUCTS

Buckaroo Chunk Wood Grills

The unique, patent pending carbon steel air system gets these grills to cooking temperature in minutes. The grills have stainless steel construction, firebrick bottom and use any hardwood chunks. View video demos at Facebook.com/BuckarooChunk WoodGrills. 800 428-1788; BuckarooGrills.com

Chocolats du CaliBressan

Enjoy Jean-Michel Carre's delicious artisan chocolates created fresh right here in Santa Barbara County. Jean-Michel’s experience and creative culinary skills have earned him many world-wide accolades. In Carpinteria, they are open Mon–Fri 10am–6:30pm and Sat 10am–5:30pm at 4193 Carpinteria Ave.; 805 684-6900. In Santa Barbara, they are open Tue–Fri 10:30am–6pm, Sat 10:30am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm at 1114 State St.; 805 568-1313; ChocoCaliBressan.com

Chocolate Maya

Chocolate Maya scours the world for pure, luscious chocolates and offers incredible savory bars, truffles, bonbons and gift baskets as well as a wide choice of organic and fair-trade chocolate products. Monday–Friday 10am–6pm, Saturday 10am–5pm, Sunday 10am–4pm. 15 W. Gutierrez St., Santa Barbara. 805 965-5956; ChocolateMaya.com Grapeseed Company

The Grapeseed Company creates botanical spa and skin care products handcrafted from the byproduct of wine plus antioxidant-rich local and organic ingredients. Located at 21 W. Ortega St., Santa Barbara and open 11am–6pm Mon–Sat. Closed Sun. 805 456-3655; TheGrapeseedCompany.com

Here’s the Scoop

Here’s the Scoop offers the finest gelato and sorbet made fresh daily from local farms and farmers market fruit. They specialize in seasonal flavors as well as traditional Italian flavors. Monday–Thursday 1–9pm. Friday–Saturday noon–10pm and Sun noon–9pm. 1187 Coast Village Rd., Montecito. 805 969-7020; ScoopSB.com

Isabella Gourmet Foods

A boutique artisan grocery combing the down home charm of a New England general store with an upscale boutique setting. 5 E Figueroa St., Santa Barbara; 805 585-5257; IsabellaGourmetFoods.com

McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams

McC’s was founded in Santa Barbara in 1949 with one goal: to make the finest ice cream in the world. 70 years later, the dream is alive. Authentic, uniquely indulgent ice creams, handcrafted with love by people obsessed with getting it right. 728 State St., downtown Santa Barbara. McConnells.com

Olive Hill Farm

Gus Sousoures has been making his olive oils for many years in the Santa Ynez Valley and now you can taste and buy them, along with other oils, vinegars and gourmet food products at his cozy store in Los Olivos. Open daily 11am–5:30pm. 2901 Grand Ave, Los Olivos; 805 693-0700; OliveHillFarm.com

Santa Barbara Gift Baskets

Santa Barbara Gift Baskets creates handmade gift baskets featuring local gourmet foods and area wines and craft beers. Local delivery and nationwide shipping. 805 689-7561. SantaBarbaraGiftBaskets.com

Tecolote Bookstore

Tecolote Bookstore is an independent bookstore located in the upper village of Montecito at 1470 East Valley Rd.. Open Monday–Friday 10am–5:30pm, Saturday 10am–5pm, closed Sundays. 805 969-4977

Wonder

A local, independent boutique, Wonder delights with its eclectic collection of unique, finely crafted gifts, home accents and jewelry. Open daily 10am–6pm; Closed Sun; 805 965-6888; 1324 State St., Arlington Plaza, Santa Barbara; WonderSB.com

Valley Brewers

This local, independent shop supplies everything needed not only for home brewing, but for home winemaking and cheese making. They also offer classes and have a popular homebrewers club with monthly meetings. Open Wed–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 10am–4pm and Mon 10am–6pm. 515 Fourth Pl., Solvang; 805 691-9159; ValleyBrewers.com

WHOLESALE PRODUCE DELIVERY

Harvest Santa Barbara

Delivering freshly harvested wholesale produce—sourced directly from local family farms to schools, restaurants, hospitals and retail businesses. Their mission is to be the catalyst for a healthier, more sustainable food system by strengthening the ties between farmers and the community. 805 696-6930; HarvestSantaBarbara.com

WINERIES AND WINE RETAILERS

Alma Rosa

With certified organic vineyards in the Sta. Rita Hills, Alma Rosa focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as other food friendly wines with the high acid and extraordinary balance for which Richard Sanford’s wines have been known since 1976. Open 11am–4:30pm daily. 7250 Santa Rosa Rd., Buellton. 805 688-9090; AlmaRosaWinery.com

Alta Maria Vineyards

Alta Maria Vineyards and its subsidiary wine brands. They strive to make the best wine possible in a conscious manner utilizing organic and sustainable techniques along with conventional methods, which leave no indelible mark on the people, places and products around us. Tasting room open 11am–5pm daily. 2933 Grand Ave., Suite A, Los Olivos; 805 686-1144; AltaMaria.com

Au Bon Climat Tasting Room and the Jim Clendenen Wine Library

Celebrating 30 years of winemaking in Santa Barbara County, Au Bon Climat is world renowned for beautifully balanced and elegant Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The tasting room features a large selections of cellar aged library wines and Jim Clendenen’s eclectic smaller labels. Open daily noon–6pm; 813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, next to the Wine Cask. 805 845-8435; AuBonClimat.com

Buttonwood Farm Winery

In 1968 Betty Williams came to Buttonwood, creating a life that found expression through a connection with the land. The vineyard now has 33,000 vines with a mix of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Marsanne, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Visit the tasting room at 1500 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang. Open 11am–5pm daily. 805 688-3032; ButtonwoodWinery.com

Cambria Estate Winery

Farming for over 25 years, Cambria specializes in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. They are committed to sustainable practices in both the vineyard and in the winery. Visit the tasting room 10am–5pm. 5475 Chardonnay Lane, Santa Maria; 805 9387318; CambriaWines.com

Carr Vineyards & Winery

Established in 1999, Carr Vineyards & Winery specializes in ultra-premium, limited-production wines from Santa Barbara County. In the heart of Downtown Santa Barbara or in Old Town Santa Ynez: 11am–6pm for wine tasting, wines by the glass, flights of wine, wine on tap at 414 N. Salsipuedes St., Santa Barbara; 805 965-7985; and 3563 Numancia St., #101, Santa Ynez; 805 688-5757; CarrWinery.com

Casa Dumetz

Making wine from their organic vineyard in Malibu and from the Tierra Alta vineyard in Santa Ynez. Visit Babi’s tasting room Thursday noon–7pm, Friday–Saturday 11am–7pm, Sunday 11am–6pm or by appointment. 448 Bell St., Los Alamos. 805 344-1900; CasaDumetzWines.com

De Su Propia Cosecha

De Su Propia Cosecha, which means ‘of one’s own harvest,’ has opened a tasting room at the Lompoc Wine Ghetto at 1501 E. Chestnut St., Suite A. Open Friday–Sunday 11am–5pm. 805 345-9355; DeSuPropiaCosecha.com

Cinque Stelle Winery

Cinque Stelle (“Five Stars” in Italian) is a family owned and operated winery. Stop by their tasting room to taste several varietals including Albarino, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir and Syrah, among others. 2445 Alamo Pintado Ave, Los Olivos; 805 688-4101. CinqueStelleWinery.com

Consilience

Consilience has produced some of Santa Barbara’s boldest, most expressive Syrah. Sister label Tre Anelli carries the tradition in food-friendly Spanish and Italian varietals. Both labels make wines with unique flavor intensity, and source from vineyards in Santa Barbara County. 2923 Grand Ave., Los Olivos; 805 691-1020; ConsilienceWines.com

Flying Goat Cellars

Flying Goat Cellars specializes in vineyard-designated Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and sparkling wine. They offer four expressions of méthode champenoise: Goat Bubbles: Rosé, Crémant, Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs. YNOT is a blend of Pinot Noir from all Santa Barbara County vineyards. Thursday–Monday, 11am–4pm. Lompoc Wine Ghetto, 1520 E. Chestnut Ct., Unit A, Lompoc; 805 736-9032; FlyingGoatCellars.com

Foxen Winery & Vineyard

Bill Wathen and Dick Doré have been making wine together since 1985, when they founded Foxen Winery & Vineyard at the historic Rancho Tinaquaic in northern Santa Barbara County. Visit the two tasting rooms at 7200 and 7600 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria. Open daily 11am–4pm. 805 9374251; FoxenVineyard.com

The Gainey Vineyard

The Gainey Vineyard is part of a large, sustainable farming operation owned and run by the Gainey family for the past 50 years. Winery tours and wine tasting are offered daily 10am–5pm. 3950 E. Hwy. 246 in Santa Ynez; (805) 6880558; GaineyVineyard.com

The Good Life

A craft beer and wine cellar featuring California craft beers and central coast wines. Open daily Sunday–Wednesday noon–9pm, Thursday–Saturday noon–11pm. 1672 Mission Dr. (Hwy 246) Solvang. TheGoodLifeCellar.com

Grassini Family Vineyards

Boutique winery specializing in handcrafted production of Bordeaux varietals. They focus on farming the vineyard to its fullest potential using renewable and sustainable resources. An artisan approach helps make wines that represent the uniqueness of Happy Canyon. Tasting room 813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara; 805 897-3366; GrassiniFamilyVineyards.com

The Hitching Post II

The Hitching Post II offers their own world-class Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Wines. Open daily except major holidays. Cocktails/wine tasting at 4pm, dinners only 5–9:30pm. 406 E. Highway 246, Buellton. 805 688-0676; HitchingPost2.com

Les Marchands Wine Bar and Merchant

A world-class experience in a relaxing atmosphere, free of intimidation. Pick out a bottle from the extensive wine shop or enjoy shared plates and a glass at the wine bar. Open daily 11am–10pm; until midnight Fri and Sat. 131 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara; 805 284-0380; LesMarchandsWine.com

Longoria Wines

Longoria Wines is a small family owned winery producing acclaimed artisanal wines from some of the finest vineyards in Santa Barbara County. Visit their tasting room in Los Olivos at 2935 Grand Ave., daily 11am–4:30pm or in the Lompoc Wine Ghetto at 1700 Industrial Way, unit A, Saturday and Sunday 11am–4:30pm. 805 688-0305; LongoriaWine.com

Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Cafe

Specializing in premium California wines with a focus on highlighting the Central Coast. They feature Bernat Wines, which are estate grown and made by owner Sam Marmorstein. Open daily 11:30am–8:30pm. 2879 Grand Ave., Los Olivos. 805 688-7265; LosOlivosCafe.com

Municipal Winemakers

After spending their formative years traveling and studying terroir and techniques, Municipal Wine is now working hard to make honest, interesting and delicious wines for the people of this world. They do this with love—carefully and slowly. Tasting room open daily 11am–6pm at 22 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara; 805 931-6884; MunicipalWinemakers.com

Qupé

For 30 years, Qupé has been dedicated to producing handcrafted Rhône varietals and Chardonnay from California’s Central Coast. Employing traditional winemaking techniques and biodynamic farming practices, they are true to type and speak of their vineyard sources. Open daily 11am–5pm. 2963 Grand Ave., Suite B, Los Olivos; 805 686-4200; Qupe.com

Riverbench Vineyard & Winery

Since 1973 Riverbench has produced some of Santa Barbara County’s finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. With their initial harvest in 2006, they have now begun producing their own wines with winemaker Chuck Ortman. Tasting room is open 10am–4pm daily. 6020 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria. 805 937-8340; Riverbench.com

Sanford Winery

Home to the oldest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines in Santa Barbara County, Sanford produces distinctly complex wines from their iconic vineyards. Make reservations for a VIP tasting or stop by to sample a flight at their picturesque tasting room. Downtown SB location coming soon! 5010 Santa Rosa Rd., Lompoc; 800 426-9463; SanfordWinery.com

Standing Sun Wines

Standing Sun Wines focus on Rhone variety wines, handcrafted in small lots from some of Santa Ynez Valley’s premiere vineyards. Tasting room at 92 Second St., Unit D, Buellton, is open Thursday–Monday 11am–5pm; 805 904-8072 or 805 691-9413; StandingSunWines.com

The Winehound

The award-winning Winehound features the world’s best wines—from the everyday to a luxury cuvée—all top dogs, no mutts. Open 11am–7pm Monday through Saturday, noon–6pm Sunday. 3849 State St., Santa Barbara. 805 845-5247; TheWinehound.com

Zaca Mesa Winery & Vineyards

A Santa Ynez Valley estate winery dedicated to Rhone varieties. Since 1972, they have handcrafted wines from grapes grown in their vineyards to express their distinct character and genuine quality. Open daily 10am–4pm. 6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos. 805 688-9339 ext. 308; ZacaMesa.com

Tecolote Book Shop

edible Source Guide Maps

Los Alamos

1. Full of Life Flatbread

Buellton

Hitching Post II

Standing Sun W ines

Buellton Visitors Bureau

New West Catering

Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co.

Ken Brown W ines 7. Alma Rosa Vineyards

Sanford W inery

Lompoc Wine Ghetto

Solvang

1. Valley Brewers 2. Succulent Café Wine Charcuterie 3. Fresco Valley Café

4. Solvang Visitors Bureau

5. Cecco Ristorante

6. The Good Life

7. New Frontiers Natural Marketplace

8. Buttonwood Farm Winery

TOBUELLTON,SOLVANG

Los Olivos

4. Alta Maria Vineyards

Consilience and Tre Anelli

Casa Dumetz

1. De Su Propia Cosecha

2. Flying Goat Cellars 3. Longoria W ines

edible Source Guide Maps

Santa Ynez

3.

Goleta

Montecito

Santa Barbara

3. Riverbench W inery

4. Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co.

5. & 33. Backyard Bowls

6. Chocolate Maya

7. McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams

8. Nest

9.

& 30. Renaud’s

the last Bite

Heather Hartley and Alison Hensley Founders of the SOL Food Festival

In 2009 Heather Hartley and Alison Hensley came up with the idea of having a festival devoted to local food. Their vision was expansive—expose thousands of people on a single day to the idea of growing a brighter food future. The very name explained it. SOL, for Sustainable, Organic and Local. On Saturday, October 2, 2010, the vision became reality at the Plaza Vera Cruz Park, across the street from the Saturday farmers market. And the festival has become a treasured annual community gathering ever since.

It not only celebrates the bounty of local, delicious food that Santa Barbara County has to offer, but educates people about the many issues around localizing our food system. Their vision hasn’t wavered. Edible Santa Barbara couldn’t be prouder to partner with and support their efforts over the years.

This year the fourth annual festival will be held on Saturday, September 28, 10am–6pm, once again at the Plaza Vera Cruz Park. Come out to celebrate with Heather and Alison and the many talented and dedicated volunteers and organizations who make it all possible.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIN FEINBLATT

Alison Hensley and Heather Hartley

The hearT of The SanTa riTa hillS

Winery Tour & TasTing

VerTical TasTing

Vineyard Picnic

Wine & Food Pairing

Enjoy a guided tour of our beautiful grounds and architecturally notable winery, ending with a special tasting of six estate wines. Every Saturday and by appointment

Discover the nuances that each unique year brings to our vineyards, with a seated tasting comparing three vintages of two of our estate-grown Pinot Noirs. Every Saturday and by appointment

Take in stunning vineyard views as you dine on your choice of gourmet menu selections and wine flights. Includes a winery tour for a full experience. By appointment only, 2 week advance reservation required

Learn the secrets of pairing, with a guided tasting of six wines accompanied by a menu of small bites or artisan cheeses specially selected by our winemaker. By appointment only, 1 week advance reservation required