Edible Santa Barbara Winter 2011 by Edible Santa Barbara

SANTA BARBARA

edible institute 2012

March 10 & 11

Santa Barbara, California

Join us for a weekend of talks, presentations, workshops, and local food & wine tastings by some of the food movement’s most influential thinkers, writers, and producers.

For the latest information about the speakers, topics, conference details and how to purchase tickets, go to ediblecommunities.com/institute or scan the code below:

“The Original Essential Oil Towelette”

Pure Fresh Fabulous

Locally Owned and Operated Since 1997

All natural towelette in lavender, lemon, orange, peppermint, eucalyptus. Cleanse hands and kill germs. Toss them in your purse, backpack, briefcase, car, wallet, or gym bag to enjoy their germkilling, mood-lifting, fabulousness everywhere you go!

Order Online at: www.herbanessentials.com

Find us at: Avia Spa • Drishti • Montecito Yoga • Prana • Sage Center for Health

• San Ysidro Pharmacy • Skin Dance • Skin Deep • Santa Barbara Yoga Center

• Whole Foods Santa Barbara

Choose Antioch

Making a difference star ts with Antioch University

Santa Barbara. Our strong focus on social responsibility helps graduates create meaningful careers. And our quar terly public ﬁlm and discussion series at AUSB’s new downtown campus provides a forum for the community to learn more about contemporary social, educational, and environmental issues.

Peppermint oil is invigorating and energizing. Some of the many uses for our peppermint towelettes: inhale aroma to clear the mind and combat mental fatigue; rub on upset tummies to dispel nausea; press on pulse points and breathe in aroma to relieve motion sickness; and tuck in car air conditioner vents to clean air and pep up the driver.

our degree programs

Bachelor of Arts

MA in Education

Teacher Credentialing

MA in Clinical Psychology

PsyD in Clinical Psychology

For more information, visit www.antiochsb.edu/choose

Antioch University is a fully-accredited, private, non-proﬁt institution.

Transforming Our Community

c om mu n i ty c al e n da r

social justice series: human rights

films: Tapestries of Hope and ﬁlms from Human Rights Watch Film Festival

book: Half the Sky by Kristof & WuDunn

Co-sponsored by AUSB & The Fund for Santa Barbara

environmental series: seasonal migrators in sb

lecture: Seasonal Migrators in SB field trip: Harbor Seals & Monarch Butter ﬂies

Co-sponsored by AUSB and Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History

All events are free & open to the public.

For a full calendar with locations, visit www.antiochsb.edu/community

RA

STEVEN BROWN

MICHAEL GARDNER

SANTABARBA RA edible ® winter

FOOD FOR THOUGHT D

I’ve been accused of being a glass-is-halffull kind of a person. I’m one of those who think the grass is greener on our side of the fence. Recognizing what we have is better than worrying about what we don’t have. And I can’t help thinking that things are essentially all going to work out just fine.

However, there are times when my glass starts to look a little empty. When I read about industrialized agribusiness, privatization of water and, even closer to home, the loss of farmland in Goleta, I wonder if the tide has turned so far that it will be impossible to set things right.

But for me the antidote to pessimism is people. The people in our community, and beyond, who are doing extraordinary things, are my steadying force. And I learn from them in each issue.

I was a little nervous at first about interviewing Tom Colicchio, but in no time I realized that he’s one of those people who has transcended his popular celebrity-chef status and is actually an activist and an agent of change. He’s someone you’d want to have a nice, long conversation with over dinner. Or at least hear him speak when he comes to Santa Barbara this February. And he’s not the only one who is speaking out in the pages of this issue.

Nancy Oster’s article on biodynamics demystifies the subject by letting us hear from people who are passionate about the subject. I remember a rainy day last year when I went to a talk given by biodynamic consultant Philippe Coderey at Ampelos Vineyard. I was fascinated by the subject and wanted to learn more. Coincidently, Nancy Oster had just been on a Santa Barbara Food and Farm Adventures tour to Healing Grounds Nursery and heard in depth about biodynamics from Oscar Carmona.

Oscar Carmona happens to be one of those people who continually give me hope that our community is well on the way to setting things right. Oscar is not just knowledgeable about biodynamics and soil and growing things, he’s got the insight on how to grow a community. When you see him at the farmers market, ask him about the role gardens can play in making our neighborhoods thrive. Every time something is planted in the ground, it’s a life-affirming act.

So here’s to the people profiled and talked about in this issue. Your words, your thoughts, your actions are encouraging us all. You fill our glasses—and we raise this toast to you.

Krista Harris, Editor

Stay Connected

We love to hear from our readers. Please email us at info@ediblesantabarbara.com You can subscribe to our free email newsletter at ediblesantabarbara.com

PUBLISHERS

Steven Brown & Krista Harris

EDITOR

Krista Harris

RECIPE EDITOR

Nancy Oster

COPY EDITOR

Doug Adrianson

DESIGNER

Steven Brown

INTERN

Kellyn Baez

WEB DESIGN

Mary Ogle

Contributors

Becky Green Aaronson

Pascale Beale

Jeanine Brandi McLychok

Joan S. Bolton

Fran Collin

Janice Cook Knight

Shannon Essa

Erin Feinblatt

Michael Gardner

Jennifer LeMay

Nancy Oster

Carole Topalian Contact Us info@ediblesantabarbara.com

Advertising Inquiries ads@ediblesantabarbara.com

Edible Santa Barbara® is published quarterly and distributed throughout Santa Barbara County. Subscription rate is $28 annually. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Publisher expressly disclaims all liability for any occurrence which may arise as a consequence of the use of any information or recipes. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.

www.fsc.org MIX Paper from responsible sources FSC © C020739

Edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year

Krista Harris during the photo shoot of Oscar Carmona for The Last Bite.

ERIN FEINBLATT

Notables edible

Succulent

Café & Trading Company

Two passionate, talented local chefs, Brian and Cynthia Champlin, have opened up the latest, hottest thing in Solvang. Succulent Café & Trading Company specializes in house-made artisan food products and gourmet food. Amazing picnic lunches can be assembled from the array of cheeses, homemade pickles and their own charcuterie. They even make their own crackers. Or try some of their menu items like the BBQ Meatloaf Sandwich or the Buttermilk Fried Chicken Salad. And if it isn’t made from scratch on the premises, then it’s probably made by another local artisan— they carry Jessica Foster chocolate truffles and, of course, local beers and wines.

They are open Wednesday through Sunday 11:30am–4pm, and are located at 1555 Mission Drive, Solvang; 805 691-9235. succulentcafe.com

Twenty-Four Blackbirds

Bean-to-Bar Chocolate

It is surprising and yet so wonderful to know that there is an artisan like Twenty-Four Blackbirds making chocolate, literally making chocolate, right here in Santa Barbara. They source raw, unroasted cacao beans from single-origin estates and roast the beans to their exacting standards. The chocolate is made in small batches using traditional stone melangers, which grind the beans to chocolate liquor. The chocolate is hand-poured into their unique feather-embossed molds—an exquisite local product that also happens to be delicious.

Pick up their bars or drinking chocolate kits at many area shops and visit twentyfourblackbirds.wordpress.com

IxCacao

Local Brownie Artisan

Named for the Mayan goddess of chocolate, IxCacao (pronounced “ish kuh-KOW”) makes an incredibly decadent and delicious line of brownies. The taste of premium chocolate and high-quality ingredients comes shining through, and the texture is sublime. Their classic chocolate flavor is hard to surpass, but lovers of orange will gravitate to the California Orange; spice fiends will appreciate the Mayan Cacao with its touch of chipotle chile; and it’s doubtful that anyone will be able resist the Salted Caramel. We can’t help thinking that owner Heidi Whitney should be called the brownie goddess.

You can find them locally at C’est Cheese, Pierre Lafond, Bakery Des Reves in Gelson’s, Goodland Kitchen Market and online at ixcacaobrownies.com

TM IxCacao Brownies

Bell Street Farm

Eatery & Market

Bell Street Farm has just given us all another reason to go to Los Alamos. Like its friendly neighbor up the street, Full of Life Flatbread, it is one of those culinary destinations worth driving for—whether it’s for a mid-morning snack, lunch, picnic supplies or afternoon wine. They even have a great selection of cookbooks and kitchen products in one of the most stylish retail spaces on the Central Coast. Owner Jamie Gluck has created an incredible experience, and the food with its local and farm-fresh ingredients takes it to yet another level. You must try the rotisserie pork and chicken—the Rotisserie Pork Salad with its hot and crispy pork-belly-wrapped shoulder on top of Butterleaf lettuce, roasted potatoes and green beans dressed with a mustard vinaigrette. And definitely save room for their freshly baked cookies and desserts. They are open Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday 10am–6pm, and are located at 406 Bell St., Los Alamos; 805 344-4609; bellstreetfarm.com

vertical TASTING

Blistered Almonds

Fat Uncle Farms is a familiar stand at many of our area farmers markets. Their almond orchard is in Wasco, about 150 miles from Santa Barbara, in the Central Valley with the temperatures that the almond trees thrive on. We thrive on their delicious blistered almonds and have chosen four to highlight this season. For more about almonds and Fat Uncle Farms, read Becky Green Aaronson’s article in this issue “Almonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend.”

Original with Sea Salt

This is where the addiction begins. The crunchy, light texture makes them incredibly snack worthy. Remind yourself how good almonds are for you as you finish the bag. Perfect for lunch, dinner and those times in between. Pair with pears, cheese and salumi.

Rosemary

Adding rosemary to the mix takes it to the next level. You can put these out for hors d’oeuvres at even your fanciest parties, but be warned that they do go quickly. They are great with Italian and Spanish food. You could also chop them up and add them to a turkey breast stuffing or sprinkle them on top of a salad. Pair with prosciutto, jamón ibérico and dates.

Cajun

For those who like a little heat, the Cajun has a fantastic blend of spices, both fiery and pungent. These are the perfect nut to put out at Super Bowl parties and backyard barbecues. You can’t eat just one. Pair with cold beer, jambalaya and breath mints.

Cinnalmond

This is the almond for all those out there with a sweet tooth. It’s the dessert almond. The cinnamon adds a punch of flavor and evokes the wintery holiday season. Chop them up and add them to pumpkin bread or mix them into some eggnog ice cream. They also make a nice present for Valentine’s Day. Pair with chocolate, ice wine and someone sweet.

You can find Fat Uncle Farms almonds at most area farmers markets and at fatunclefarms.com

Notable edible Winner Larry Nobles

Mixologist and restaurant manager of Stella Mare’s, Larry Nobles was recently named the Santa Barbara regional winner in the St-Germain Can-Can Cocktail Classic. Larry’s drink, the Cognac De Fleur, was chosen by the St-Germain selection committee as the regional winner and will now compete with approximately 50 other Edible Communities regional winners for the grand prize of $10,000 and the national title.

Larry and his wife, Rachel, moved to Santa Barbara about three years ago from Hawaii, and he has been at Stella Mare’s for over a year. His passion for exquisite and unusual cocktails has been with him for over a decade. And Stella Mare’s owner, Philippe Rousseau, supports him in that quest and encourages him to develop innovative cocktails for an increasingly appreciative market. Larry’s approach is to use fresh, local ingredients in conjunction with the best-quality liquors. St-Germain, in particular, appeals to him for its versatility and approachability.

He created the winning cocktail using Martell cognac and Meyer lemons grown right outside on the restaurant patio. The drink is both beautiful and refreshingly delicious, not to mention that it pairs perfectly with Stella Mare’s French country cuisine. Larry suggests having it as an aperitif with their tasty and well-known Oak-Grilled Artichoke. The citrus and floral flavors in the drink balance the flavor of the artichoke and its roasted garlic aioli. And it’s the perfect way to start a meal.

Cognac De Fleur

1 ounce of Martell VSOP cognac

1.5 ounce St-Germain elderflower liqueur

1 ounce of fresh-squeezed local Meyer lemon juice

.5 ounce of local Buddha’s Hand citrus-infused simple syrup

Garnished with candied local Meyer lemon zest or local micro flowers

Pour cognac, St-Germain, Meyer lemon juice and simple syrup into a pint glass and then add ice. Lightly stir with a mixing spoon and strain into an ice-filled tulip glass or martini bowl. Finish off by adding a pinch of the candied zest to the top of the cocktail. Thank you and I hope you enjoy!

Stella Mare’s is located at 50 Los Patos Way in Santa Barbara (across from the bird refuge); 969-6705; stellamares.com. You can find out more about the St-Germain Can-Can Cocktail Classic at stgermain.fr/cancanclassic and Facebook.com/StGermain

STEVEN BROWN

Season in

Almonds (harvested Aug/Sept)

Apples (harvested July–Oct)

Artichokes

Arugula

Avocados

Bay leaf

Beans, dried

Beets

Bok choy

Broccoli

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Carrots

Cauliflower

Celery

Chard

Cherimoya

Chiles (various)

Cilantro

Collards

Dandelion

Dates (harvested Sept/Oct)

Dill

Fennel

Garlic (harvested May/June)

Grapefruit

Honey

Kale

Kiwi

Leeks

Lemons

Lettuce

Limes

Mustard greens

Onions, green bunching

Onions, bulb (harvested May/June)

Oranges, blood

Oranges, navel

Oranges, Valencia

Parsley

Peas, snap

Pistachios (harvested Sept/Oct)

Potatoes (harvested May/June)

Radishes

Raisins (harvested Sept/Oct)

Rosemary

Sage

Spinach

Sprouts and legumes

Squash, winter (hard) (harvested July/Oct)

Strawberries

Sweet potatoes (harvested Aug/Sept)

Tangerines/Mandarins

Tomatoes, hothouse

Turnips

Walnuts (harvested Sept/Oct)

Yams (harvested Aug/Sept)

Fresh Flowers

Potted Plants/Herbs

Regional Dairy

(raw milk, artisanal goat- and cow-milk cheeses, butters, curds, yogurts and spreads)

Locally Produced Breads, Pies and Preserves

(bread produced from wheat grown locally; pies and preserves)

Local Meat

(antibiotic-free chicken, duck, Cornish game hens, rabbit, goat, grass-fed/hormone-free beef and pork)

Local Seafood

Many types of local seafood are available year round, but here is a list of some that will be in season this winter:

Squid

Sardines

Anchovies

Urchins

Rock crab

Prawns

Lobster

California halibut

Rockfish

Black cod

seasonal Recipes

Radicchio

Radicchio is a type of chicory with a beautiful deep red color. At the markets look for either the round headed type or the elongated variety called Treviso. Radicchio has a pleasant bitterness when raw, making it a nice addition to a salad. When cooked it mellows considerably, and in Italy they use it to quite good effect as a delicious filling for ravioli. Or if you want something as incredibly easy as it is satisfying, try grilling it.

Radicchio Ravioli

Makes 6 servings

2 heads of radicchio

2 leeks, sliced and thoroughly washed

Olive oil

3 ounces finely chopped pancetta

Coarse sea salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 ⁄ 2 cup red wine

2 ounces of soft goat cheese, crumbled

1 pound pasta dough, made with all-purpose flour or Italian 00 flour

1–2 tablespoons butter

1 ⁄ 2 cup white wine

1 ⁄ 2 cup heavy cream

4–5 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated, plus a little more for garnish

Whole milk, if needed for thinning

Finely chop the radicchio heads and leeks and set aside a couple tablespoons of each for the sauce.

In a large, heavy skillet over medium heat add the pancetta and a little olive oil to coat the bottom. When the pancetta just starts to brown, add the radicchio and leeks, season with a little salt and pepper and cook until they are soft and translucent, but not brown, about 10 minutes. Add the red wine and cook just long enough to let it evaporate. Place the mixture in a bowl, add the goat cheese and stir to combine.

Roll out your pasta dough and fill ravioli with the radicchio mixture.

To make the sauce, add the butter to a large, heavy skillet and sauté the reserved leeks until soft, just a few minutes. Then add the reserved radicchio, season with salt and pepper and continue sautéing for a couple minutes. Add the white wine and stir to deglaze the pan. Add the cream and Parmesan cheese. If the sauce is too thick, add a little milk. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to boil, add salt and cook the ravioli for 3–4 minutes. Drain them and add them to the sauce and sauté briefly in the sauce and stir gently to coat them with the sauce. Serve with a little more freshly ground black pepper and an additional shaving of Parmesan cheese, if desired.

Grilled Radicchio

Makes 4 servings

2 heads of round radicchio, quartered

1 ⁄ 8 cup olive oil

Juice of half an orange

Coarse sea salt

Freshly ground pepper

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

Prepare the grill for medium to high heat. In a medium bowl combine the radicchio quarters with the olive oil, orange juice, salt and pepper until thoroughly coated and let sit for a few minutes absorb the flavors.

Place radicchio on the grill and cook, turning occasionally for about 5–10 minutes—just until it is softened and slightly charred. Serve with a little grated Parmesan cheese on top.

Shallots

Finley Farms has the most amazing variety of shallot this winter called the Picador. They are very large, making them easy to peel and use in all sorts of recipes.

Caramelized Shallots

Use these as a topping for pasta, vegetables or just about anything.

Makes 4 servings

4 large shallots, approximately 1½ pounds

1 tablespoon butter

Olive oil

Coarse sea salt

1–2 tablespoons apple bouquet or apple cider vinegar

Cut off the root end and peel the shallots. Cut in ¼ inch slices, lengthwise. In a large, heavy skillet over medium heat add the butter and enough olive oil to thoroughly cover the bottom. When heated, add the shallots, stir and add a sprinkling of salt. Sauté for about 10 minutes until soft and golden colored. Turn down the heat if they start to get too brown. Add the vinegar and sauté another 5–10 minutes until they are very tender and caramel brown. Taste and add a little more salt if needed.

edible

Books Winter Reading Guide

We know how much our Edible readers love to read cookbooks. Here are a few must-have books for yourself or for gifts this winter. And visit ediblesantabarbara.com for even more selections.

Holiday Dinners with Bradley Ogden (Running Press)

Bradley Ogden with Lydia Scott, photographs by Jeremy Ball

280 pages, hardcover, $30

Number of recipes: 150

This cookbook covers the most important culinary times of our lives: the holidays. Although Bradley Ogden is an award-winning celebrity chef who has created several renowned restaurants including our local Root 246, his recipes are approachable and destined to become your classics. And there is a recipe for every aspect or type of holiday meal, from cocktails to desserts and from the lavish feast to a simple dinner for two. He also gives you a very handy preparation schedule and lots of technique tips. Finally, the recipes are downright delectable. Try Thanksgiving’s Three-Layer Pumpkin Pie, the Honey- and Cider-Vinegar-Basted Rack of Pork for Christmas or celebrate New Year’s Day with Black-Eyed Peas with Smoked Bacon and Spinach. The book is perfect for anyone who cooks during the holidays, and it makes a great hostess gift.

Edible Brooklyn: The Cookbook

(Sterling Epicure)

Edited by Rachel Wharton, foreword by Tracey Ryder, photographs by Carole Topalian

157 pages, hardcover, $18.95

Number of recipes: 100

As members of Edible Communities, we admit we may be a bit biased, but this book was one we just couldn’t leave off the list. From the moment you touch the uncoated paper on the cover (the dust jacket even folds out into a fantastic map of the neighborhoods of Brooklyn) you know this is something special. The recipes are carefully selected from just the kind of amazing chefs and food purveyors you would expect from Brooklyn, with innovative things like Chocolate-Covered Kale Chips and Egg Noodles with Creamy Red Cabbage and Sweet Corn—serious foodie comfort food. The book is for anyone who lives in Brooklyn, hails from Brooklyn, has visited Brooklyn or just loves good food.

Homegrown & Handmade: A

Practical

Guide to More Self-Reliant Living

(New Society Publishers)

By Deborah Niemann

272 pages, softcover, $22.95

Number of recipes: 25

More and more people are getting into urban homesteading, suburban homesteading, Permaculture or the particularly apt term “self-reliant living.” This is a fantastic book for covering the basics of everything from growing a sustainable garden to raising backyard poultry, managing a home dairy and even raising a fiber flock to supply your own wool. The book is perfect for anyone who has a little plot of land and wants to do more with it.

The Cheesemonger’s Kitchen: Celebrating Cheese in 90 Recipes

(Chronicle Books)

By Chester

Hastings, photographs by Joseph De Leo

224 pages, hardcover, $35

Number of recipes: 90

This is one of the most exciting and beautifully designed books we’ve come across. Author Chester Hastings is a writer, chef and cheesemonger in Los Angeles (Joan’s on Third) who has brought us a book with a new way of looking at cheese. The exquisite recipes enhance and bring out the best in the artisan cheeses that they showcase. He had us with the very first recipe in the book: Fresh Goat Cheese “Pears” with Pistachio Dust. These are the recipes that you dream about—Burrata with Asparagus, Pine Nuts and Golden Raisins; Roasted Garlic and Cauliflower Soup with Aged Cheddar; Twice-Baked Potatoes with Midnight Moon Goat Cheese and desserts like Coach Farm Triple-Cream Goat Cheesecake with Lemon Cream. Sigh. This book is just the right thing for anyone who has a penchant for cheese.

Interviewed by Shannon Essa Marc Grandle

Edible Santa Barbara reader

Marc Grandle is our subject this quarter for a Q&A on all things edible. Marc is a Bay Area native who now practices as a chiropractor in the Funk Zone. He lives in Santa Barbara with his wife, Karen (owner of Thriving Essentials, a sustainability concierge service), and their children, Lea and Rowan. Marc volunteers all over town—at his kids’ classes at Roosevelt School, on the rugby pitch at Elings Park with the Santa Barbara Grunion and at the annual Surf Happens Rincon Classic. We first met Marc at Backyard Bowls. Or wait, maybe it was Chocolate Maya? Actually it could have been both.

Where are you from?

What foods do you miss from where you grew up?

I was born and raised in Redwood City, California, one of many cities along the San Francisco peninsula. I miss burritos from a taqueria/mercado called La Azteca. It is a mainstay in town that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and has a very well-stocked Mexico-centric market where we would buy fresh posole and chicharones.

What brought you to Santa Barbara?

What keeps you here—and what makes Santa Barbara so special to you?

We feel Santa Barbara has many of the best things the world has to offer all in one spot: climate, surf, opportunity, people, natural beauty. My wife, two young children and I traveled the California coast from Napa and Sonoma counties to San Diego searching for the ideal spot to live and work. It was not an easy transition from life in the Pacific Northwest, where we had spent the previous five years, but once we got settled life became idyllic. The more we get to know Santa

Barbara and the surrounding areas, the better it gets.

Name three things that are always in your kitchen.

Fresh seasonal fruit from our expanding garden, great coffee and lavender (gifts from my daughter) are always present. I have to add a fourth, since we are so excited: eggs from our chickens that we raised from chicks! I highly recommend this experience for young families.

What music are you into right now?

Classical. My daughter is learning to play piano and my son recently discovered the theme track to Indiana Jones. I prefer to listen to it in the car with the kids because it’s rated-G and they enjoy it.

What celebrity chef do you totally dig?

Although she hasn’t quite caught on in popular culture, my wife is HUGE in our house!

What are some of your favorite things to eat in Santa Barbara County?

The pot de crème from San Ysidro Ranch, which I have compared with other world-renowned dining establishments, is a favorite; I have yet to find one that compares. I love the nuances between all the burritos from literally every taqueria in town, anything from Backyard Bowls, sandwiches on the patio at Metropulos and whatever random magical treats Katie offers on occasion at Montecito Confections.

Name your top five local guilty pleasures.

Chocolate Maya, Renaud’s Patisserie, Santa Barbara Roasting Co., Montecito Confections and Spoon Gelato.

And to drink?

Pellegrino with limes, muddled.

While we are on the subject, what is your favorite hangover cure?

Prevention is the key ;) If you do get a hangover: IntraMAX liquid multi-vitamin, clean water and exercise is nearly 100% effective.

Friends are visiting from out of town. What two or three places would you want to visit with them? (Doesn’t have to be food-related.)

A trip out to the Channel Islands is a must, as it is a pretty unique resource we have. The beach at Hammonds, although I am forced to blindfold all our guests before going. A visit to the Museum of Art followed immediately by a tour through the nearby art galleries like Arts & Letters Café, for those who can appreciate it.

Describe the perfect “food day” in Santa Barbara County.

Start with breakfast at East Beach if only for the nostalgia, as it was one of our original haunts, followed by coffee from Santa Barbara Roasting Co., picnic lunch with food from Lazy Acres at Leadbetter’s, a barbecue tri-tip (work in progress) dinner at my house, ending with a nightcap and desserts at Stonehouse.

What is the most offbeat food or dish you have ever tasted?

I was once directed to slurp the innards out of the head of a langostino at a tapas bar in Seville, Spain—this stands out as one of my most memorable culinary experiences. Let’s just say it is a taste I have yet to acquire.

What is it that you like about Edible Santa Barbara magazine? Can you name a couple of your favorite articles?

I like everything about Edible Santa Barbara from the feel/texture of the cover to the flow of the layout. I especially enjoy the introductions to local people and places. The interview with Michael Pollan and one about bees from an early issue (that I can’t seem to find) are two articles I really enjoyed. I always look forward to the recipes and I am amazed at how quickly copies are “borrowed” from my office.

Interested in being profiled as an Edible Eater or know someone who should be? Email Shannon Essa at Shannon@ediblesantabarbara.com.

Shannon Essa is a California native whose beverage of choice is Santa Barbara Pinot Noir. She is the author of restaurant guidebook Chow Venice! and splits her time between Santa Barbara and Europe, writing and leading wine-, beer- and foodbased tours in Spain and Italy for Grapehops Tours.

AN INTERVIEW WITH Tom Colicchio

by Krista Harris

om Colicchio grew up in New Jersey, cooking with his Italian-American mother and grandmother. In 1994 he co-opened the Gramercy Tavern in New York City. In 2001, he opened up Craft. Later, he expanded with Craftbar and ’wichcraft. In 2010 Colicchio was named the nation’s top chef by the James Beard Foundation, one of the most prestigious prizes in the culinary world. He is the author of Think Like a Chef, Craft of Cooking and ’wichcraft. As the lead judge on Bravo’s “Top Chef,” Tom has won numerous awards and has served as a mentor to many of the chefs on the series. He will be speaking in Santa Barbara on February 22, 2012, so we took the opportunity to talk to him about his restaurants, politics and—yes, of course— whether there will be another season of “Top Chef.”

“Top Chef” is a big part of why people know you, but it’s just a part of what you do. Tell us about your restaurants. Do you get to cook at your restaurants?

Well, chefs don’t cook in their restaurants. In the same way that if you go to the symphony, the person who gets the billing is really the conductor, but do you expect the conductor to jump into the pit and start playing a violin? No, the conductor is there to make sure that everyone is playing their part, doing things at a certain time. And that’s pretty much how it is for a chef in the kitchen. It’s the chef’s ideas and the chef’s recipes. Depending on how collaborative that chef is he’ll either bring people into that process or not. So the people who are cooking are the cooks— that’s what they do. In any of my restaurants there are usually six cooks working the stoves, there’s usually two people in gardemanger and two people in pastry. If I’m in my kitchen I’m usually working with the sous-chef who’s calling out the orders, making sure everything is coming up at the right time, making sure that everything is seasoned right. So you’re tasting little bits and pieces of things as they’re being cooked, you’re walking around the kitchen and sometimes you jump in directly when someone gets behind, but you’re not cooking. But I do spend a lot of time in the kitchen—I’m usually not very visible in the front of the house.

I know you like to source food from farmers markets and small family farms. Are there any challenges in doing that at your restaurants?

It’s not that challenging at all, especially now. It’s becoming easier and easier, though using local farms is not a new thing for me. I’ve been doing it for 20-plus years. It’s just part of what we do.

We buy local as much as possible, but in New York come December, January and February, you’re not buying local. There’s not much local to buy. In LA we’re buying local all year round, because you can. In Las Vegas we’re buying from mostly California farms. Wherever we open a restaurant, whether we open in Atlanta or Dallas, one of the first things we do is contact as many local suppliers as possible and go out to visit them and talk to them. But how far do you take it? If you’re a locavore in New York, are you using olive oil or oranges? For me in a restaurant it’s more about supporting small growers—local when possible. It’s the large industrial ag business that we’re trying to avoid, and for so many reasons I try to avoid them. What it’s really all about is supporting the small producer, whether it’s wine, produce or a small producer going out and fishing on a day boat. It’s about taking care of the small family farms and small producers.

And how about ranchers raising livestock?

Yes, to me that’s even the harder part. The problem they have is actually slaughterhouses—there’s so few. What this country needs is more small or mobile slaughterhouses.

And more people entering small farming?

Yes, and this is where I start to get political. I’m very active on the issue of hunger. My wife [Lori Silverbush] and her partner [Kristi Jacobson] are working on a film focusing on domestic hunger. And we feel that there is a role that government plays and one of the biggest issues is what we choose to subsidize in this country: wheat, soy and corn, which go into processed foods. If they would take some of that money and give it to small producers you’d see the price of real food—fruits and vegetables—go down. And that’s a big problem when it comes to hunger. It’s very easy to point your finger at someone who’s buying chips and soda for their family to eat. Well, that might be all they can afford. If they could afford to buy whole foods, and foods that are obviously healthier and more nutritious, they would. They just can’t afford them or they can’t find them. So to tie that in, I think many small farms go out of business because they can’t compete any more, especially with the cost of land. A land trust that buys development rights can be a great way to go. So farmers can still stay on their land and farm.

Can you tell us more about the film on hunger?

In the last 25 years or so I’ve been involved in raising money for organizations that fight hunger. During that time, we’ve seen the problem just get worse. We’re raising more money and yet the

problem keeps growing. So my wife and her partner thought: Would it be possible to change the face of hunger? Too often Americans think of hunger as flies buzzing around the distended stomach of a child in Africa. And yes, that is a major problem in the world, but right here in this country we have people—we have children, we have seniors, we have working families—that are struggling every single day to find food to put on their tables. So we thought that the first thing we could do is really change the face of hunger and show how deep the problem is here.

“For me in a restaurant it’s more about supporting small growers—local when possible. It’s the large industrial ag business that we’re trying to avoid.

More than 50 million Americans, one in six, are having a hard time putting food on their table. It’s insane when you think about it—and it’s about 13 million children! You have to ask yourself at a certain point: Is this is the kind thing that we should allow to happen here. We don’t pretend to have the answer. We felt that it was really important for the public to understand the issue, and then to hopefully get behind it and force politicians and force government to address it. And we’re also showing that this is a nonpartisan issue. We all need to address it. Every president since Nixon has promised to do something about it, but nothing’s been done. So, that’s what we’re trying to accomplish with the film. We’re trying to change the narrative. And get people focused on the problem and hopefully come up with some solutions.

You testified at the hearing for the Child Nutrition Act last year. What brought you to become involved and to speak out on this issue?

The School Lunch Program is one of the safety nets. Ironically, it was started back in the 1940s because recruits showing up to fight during World War II were malnourished. My mom ran a school cafeteria. When we tried to get her to retire, she said, “I’m not ready to retire yet because there are a lot of kids who come into my lunchroom, and I know that this is all they eat all day long and I want to make sure they have something healthy.” Some people believe that school lunch should be completely free. There is a book by Janet Poppendiek called Free for All: Fixing School Food in America —a great read if it’s something you’re interested in.

So, there are these days when an average person can go and testify and you can get on the slate and get in there. So I thought, hey, let’s speak up and see if we can make a difference. Unfortunately, we didn’t. I mean, they finally raised the money that they’re giving to school lunches, but it’s woefully inadequate. The president was asking for $10 billion over 10 years and Representative [George] Miller [D-California] sponsored a bill in the House that was for $8 billion over 10 years and the Senate bill was down to $4.5 billion. The real travesty of that was that half of the $4.5 billion came from food stamps. It’s like robbing Peter to pay Paul. It’s absolutely

ridiculous. But this is politics. So at the end I think it came out to about six cents additional for school lunch and it did create more breakfast programs, after-school and summer meals. So that was helpful.

And finally, since we’re already most of the way through season nine of “Top Chef.” Will there be a season 10?

I’m sure there will be. There’s talk of a season 10 already.

You can find out more about the hunger film at hungryinamerica.net. You can also find Tom Colicchio as head judge on Bravo’s “Top Chef” (bravotv.com) and you can hear from Tom in person when he comes to the Santa Barbara area for a talk on February 22, 2012, at Campbell Hall. Learn more at artsandlectures.sa.ucsb.edu

EDIBLE GARDEN Earthworms

by Joan S. Bolton

There’s something fundamentally satisfying about scooping up a handful of damp earth from the garden over winter and discovering a few plump earthworms wriggling through your fingers.

That those primitive creatures show signs of life during a quiet time of year bodes well for fertility and tilth—both of which are important components of healthy soil.

Put in a little effort now and, come spring, your garden will be teeming with earthworms.

Why Earthworms Are So Fabulous

Earthworms are stealth heroes in our gardens, silently and tirelessly improving the soil. They contribute to better drainage as they tunnel through the earth. Their passageways make it easier for water to flow, oxygen to reach roots and carbon dioxide to escape.

They also mix and redistribute organic material while feeding on dead roots, dead plants and miscellaneous garden litter. Some earthworms literally eat dirt, grinding their way through the grit to glean nutrition from microbes that grow in it. Whatever their diet, they ingest larger, complicated pieces of matter, blend it and partially decompose it in their guts, then excrete it as castings of finer particles that present nutrients in a form that’s more readily accessible to plant roots than ordinary, “raw” organic material.

Castings are an excellent soil conditioner as well. In combination with a lubricating mucus that earthworms secrete that binds soil particles together, the castings open up pores in the soil. That also helps to prevent crusting or caking on the surface, which slows erosion.

How to Entice Earthworms

Most likely, your garden is already home to at least a few earthworms. But to get more is not a simple case of ordering a few dozen and setting them loose. Ask any soil scientist, and you’ll learn that the number of earthworms currently toiling through your soil is as many as your soil can support.

Instead, you must beef up the space. Fortunately, earthworms and edibles like the same conditions: loose, fertile soil; good drainage and consistent moisture.

For starters, aim for loamy or silty soil. Soils with too much sand can drain too fast, while brick-hard adobe clay is tough to tunnel through. Either way, add lots of medium- to rough-textured organic material, such as compost, soil conditioner or very old manure. If your soil is severely compacted, break it up first with a shovel, rototiller or even a backhoe. Or figure on building mounds or raised beds tall enough that the new surface is at least a couple of feet above anything hard or impenetrable.

Along with improving the soil structure and supplying nutrients, that organic material provides food for your expanding population of earthworms to munch on. The wriggly guys especially like nitrogen. Once you’ve worked in all that amendment, apply a thin layer of lawn clippings, no thicker than an inch, on top, or lightly work the clippings into the soil with a steel rake.

This time of year, you can substitute with a two- to fourinch layer of shredded leaves. Other seasons, you might use fine-textured compost or manure—although, if the manure smells like ammonia, age it longer first, as ammonia can kill earthworms on contact.

Don’t worry about tilling the mulch. The more you tear up the soil, the more you risk killing existing earthworms and interfering with any deep burrows. Over time, the mulch will decompose and enter the soil, or the worms will tunnel to the surface to retrieve it.

If our seasonal rains fail to appear, water the area occasionally. Moisture and drainage are intertwined. Earthworms depend on water, but they don’t want to sit in it. That’s why they emerge on pavement or bare dirt after heavy rains. They breathe through their skin, and saturated soil sends them to the surface, in search of oxygen.

Why Type Matters

Once you’ve built up your soil, you may be tempted to jump-start the process by buying worms. The trouble is, worms raised on a worm farm are great for bait, but may not survive in the ground.

Altogether, there are some 7,000 species of earthworms— with differences often indistinguishable to all but helminthologists. But conveniently, they are lumped into three types: shallow dwellers, nightcrawlers and surface dwellers.

Locally, shallow dwellers are by far the most common. These are the squirmy ones that dig through the top 10 inches of soil, chewing up and redistributing organic matter and microbes. They live a year or two and generally reproduce in spring and fall, producing 10 to 100 cocoons about an eighth of an inch in size each year.

Nightcrawlers are rare. They’re more widespread in the eastern and central United States, where they travel up and down tunnels to burrows that they’ve dug three feet deep.

Surface-dwelling worms eat top litter. In our climate, these are the redworms that survive only in worm composting bins.

An Extra Dose of Caution

The single most important thing you can do to sustain earthworms is to avoid using harmful chemicals in your garden. Although generally applied above ground, chemicals can leach into the soil. And earthworms come out at night to pull organic material into their tunnels, and when the soil becomes saturated.

Take care with organic controls as well. For instance, the copper in copper sulfate is toxic to earthworms. For dormant disease control of fruit trees, lay down a tarp beneath your trees before you spray, or use lime sulfur, which is less toxic, instead.

Joan S. Bolton is a freelance writer, garden coach and garden designer who confesses to a lifelong love affair with plants. She and her husband, Tom, have filled their four-acre property in western Goleta with natives and other colorful, water-conserving plants. They also maintain avocado, citrus and fruit trees and grow vegetables and herbs year-round. SantaBarbaraGardens.com

Santa Barbara

CERTIFIED

SUNDAYS

Camino Real Marketplace In Goleta at Storke & Hollister 10:00am – 2:00pm

TUESDAYS

Old Town Santa Barbara 500 & 600 Blocks of State Street 3:00pm – 6:30pm

WEDNESDAYS

Solvang Village Copenhagen Drive & 1st Street 2:30pm – 6:00pm

Harding Elementary School 1625 Robbins Street 3:00pm –6:30pm

THURSDAYS

Camino Real Marketplace In Goleta at Storke & Hollister 3:00pm – 6:00pm

Carpinteria 800 Block of Linden Avenue 3:00pm – 6:00pm

FRIDAYS

Montecito

1100 & 1200

Block of Coast Village Road 8:00am – 11:15am

SATURDAYS

Downtown Santa Barbara Corner of Santa Barbara & Cota Streets 8:30am –1:00pm

Biodynamics

Tuning In to the Heartbeat of the Soil

by Nancy Oster

PHOTOGRAPHY

FRAN COLLIN

To be honest, I don’t really like white wines, but I’m sipping this Verdad 2010 Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard Albariño while listening to biodynamic farming consultant Philippe Armenier describe how he helps vineyards harmonize earthly forces with cosmic forces to put rhythm back into their soil. I’m not sure what that means, but this wine is light and crisp, with a delicate complexity that makes me hesitant to pour the remaining sips into the nearby bucket even though I know I have seven more wines to taste.

From top to bottom: nettles, chamomile, yarrow and horsetail, herbs that are used in biodynamic infusions.

Opposite: Cow manure is packed in cow horns and buried, then later dug up for use in biodynamic preparations.

What Exactly Is Biodynamics?

Introduced to biodynamics during a tour at Oscar Carmona’s Healing Grounds Nursery, I’d learned enough from Oscar to want to dig a little deeper. Oscar told us, “Biodynamics is about place—your backyard as a window to the broader cosmos. A farmer must be a great observer. There are no books written about your own backyard. You have to learn where the shadows fall at any time of year, feel the temperature changes and recognize changes in your soil.”

Oscar attributed this holistic approach to Rudolf Steiner, an Austrian spiritualist, philosopher and scientist who gave a series of lectures on agriculture to a group of German farmers in 1924. The farmers were seeing a decline in the health and quality of their crops. Steiner warned the farmers about the destructive effect of chemical fertilizers and pesticides and advocated a step back to a time when farmers aligned their farming practices more closely with the rhythms of the earth and the movement of the sun, moon, and planets. These lectures became the foundation for biodynamic farming.

Oscar, like Steiner, points to the microbial content of the soil as the source of plant health. He makes his own compost tea inoculated with beneficial microorganisms that go to work in the soil to process the organic matter and minerals that nourish his seedlings.

Survival of all living things on Earth depends on the life found in the thin layer of fertile soil that forms on exposed surfaces of the Earth. Living plants collect solar energy, which is passed through the food chain and eventually reaches the soil as excrement and decay. Microbes process this organic matter into nutrients that feed the plants. And so the rhythm continues.

Oscar also makes his own compost teaming with beneficial microorganisms. A single teaspoon of fertile soil contains hundreds of millions, maybe even billions, of microorganisms.

Biodynamic Vineyards

Today biodynamic farming practices are being embraced by vintners who emphasize the importance of place or a terroir and its unique flavor characteristics.

Philippe Armenier, a biodynamic consultant for over 30 wineries in the United States, saw the decline of his own vineyard, Domaine Marcoux, in France in the 1990s, in a region where his family had grown wine grapes since the 1300s. He says, “I was farming conventionally. When you go outside and look at your plants, you should be receptive of what the plants are telling you. What they were telling me was not so great.” Twenty years later, he is teaching other winegrowers the biodynamic techniques that restored his grapevines to awardwinning health.

Louisa Lindquist, winemaker and owner of Verdad and co-owner of Qupé, holding a glass of her Albariño.

He teaches winegrowers to use the nine biodynamic preparations. Three are used as sprays at specific times of the year and the other six go into dairy cow compost. Of the six compost infusions—yarrow blossoms, chamomile blossoms, stinging nettles, oak bark, dandelion flowers and valerian flowers—some are pre-processed in male deer bladders, cow intestines or the skulls of domesticated animals. The three sprays are cow manure or powdered quartz packed into cow horns and horsetail tea. The horns are buried at specific times of the year, then dug up for use. The sprays are diluted to homeopathic concentrations. For example, about a half cup of the horn manure stirred into dynamized water treats one acre of land. Water is dynamized to add oxygen and energy. As it is stirred clockwise, it forms a deep vortex. The stirring is stopped to let the vortex collapse. Then it’s stirred the other direction, to create chaos and develop a new vortex. This is repeated for an hour.

“Our biodynamic vineyard has shiny bright vibrant green leaves. The vines reach up into the sky and the soil smells good.”

Philippe evaluates the needs of each vineyard and then consults a biodynamic astral calendar to identify the best days to work with the leaf, root, fruit or flower portions of the vines. Like the Farmer’s Almanac, the biodynamic calendar tracks the orbit of the moon but goes beyond the moon to include other celestial bodies and manage their effects on plant growth.

Says Louisa Lindquist, co-owner and winemaker at Qupé, “A couple of years ago I got a flat of seedlings just before the full moon. I had it sitting in front of the house. I noticed visible growth overnight during the full moon—about two inches over a 24-hour period. That’s when it hit home about the power of the moon.”

The ultimate goal of the biodynamic farmer is to work with the forces of Nature to maximize the health of the vines. Louisa says, “When you drive down the road, you notice the color and the opaqueness of the vines. Our biodynamic vineyard has shiny bright vibrant green leaves. The vines reach up into the sky and the soil smells good.” Fragrant soil indicates an abundance of healthy aerobic bacteria.

Healing the World with Biodynamics

Denise Ritchie, co-owner of Malibu Compost, plans to heal the soil of the world one yard at a time. She discovered biodynamics as a landscape designer in Southern California. She remembers a landscaping job on the cliffs of Malibu when she looked out at the ocean and realized that the smelly runoff from the soil amendments she was using was probably toxic enough to kill a pod of dolphins. That’s when she decided to change the course of her landscaping business. Shortly thereafter she saw an issue of Wine Spectator magazine that featured an article on biodynamic farming.

As a former screenwriter, Denise was used to making phone calls and following leads. It wasn’t long until she connected up with Gena Nonini at Marian Farms in Fresno, California, and

got a sample of biodynamic compost to try out. She says, “I had hundreds of heirloom roses at my home. I brought in praying mantis, built insectaries, tried ladybugs, neem oil and soaps. But every year the rust, the black spot, aphids and spider mites would come sooner and there would be more. Guess what? The minute I started using biodynamic compost on my soil, they were gone.”

Denise incorporated biodynamic compost into her landscape work, and then she formed Malibu Compost to market and sell Gena’s compost to the home gardener. “Heal the soil to heal the planet,” she says. While countries around the world are trying to protect their six to eight inches of topsoil, Denise’s attention goes a little deeper… into the subsoil.

She says, “Healthy subsoil should work like your kitchen sponge —with air pockets and holding pockets. The soil should hold water in areas where it needs to be held and the excess should drain through the air pockets down into the water table.”

She describes living soil as “the heartbeat of the planet.” The cow manure used in Steiner’s compost is the perfect growth medium for beneficial microbes. Live bacteria turn decaying organic matter and minerals into plant nutrients. Mycorrhizal fungi form networks within the plant roots, feed on plant sugars, then spread out their networks to bring water and nutrients to the plant. Plants with symbiotic fungi develop up to 10 times more root mass.

Denise says, “The job of plant roots between winter and spring is to act as rototillers and create more topsoil. They literally drill into the harder soil.” That’s where most of the soil’s nutrients and water are found. “They can’t do that if their immune system is weak. If they hit hardpan, they travel back up towards the surface. The plant gets weaker and weaker.” Microbes keep them healthy and strong.

Biodynamic methods are being used throughout the world to revitalize poor soil, most notably in Europe, New Zealand and India.

Denise Ritche, co-owner of Malibu Compost.

A Visit to the Vineyard

Martian Ranch & Vineyard in Los Alamos is not certified by Demeter USA, which provides biodynamic certification, but they are farming biodynamically with plans for certification.

Owner Nan Helgeland put me in touch with her winemaker Michael Roth, who also makes wines for Demetria Estate, another local winery that uses biodynamic farming techniques.

Michael meets me at the bottom of a steep driveway. From the top he drives me down into the vineyard. I am expecting shiny vibrant green leaves. But the peak of the season has passed. Gold and brown leaves are falling from the vines. The Grenache has been picked and the Mouvedre will be picked as the sun goes down. We sample the remaining grapes. They are plump, sweet and coated with the waxy bloom that captures the vineyard’s wild yeast. As we walk along the rows, I taste and Michael evaluates.

The grapes are at their peak as the leaves drop. I’m remembering what Denise told me, “Between winter and spring in the plant kingdom, the part of the plant above the soil goes to sleep, while the plant’s ecosystem below to comes to life.” Rains will soften the soil so the roots can dig in deeper, microbes will convert the decaying leaves into nutrient-rich humus. During the winter, Nature turns its attention to rejuvenation of the soil.

Michael tells me he farms the soil, not the plants. “Instead of worrying about the plants, I worry about the soil structure and the amount of humus in the soil. Healthy soil creates healthy plants and a healthy plant can fend off diseases. What’s under the ground is what keeps the plant alive.” He explains, “In biodynamic farming the growing season begins in the fall. If the canopy is

still green, we’ll spray the quartz preparation on vines after the harvest, just before we bed them down for the winter.” He might add a little Biodynamic Compound (a version of the plant-infused compost) to boost the microorganisms in the soil and he will plant ground cover between the rows.

According to Philippe Armenier, “The earth breathes in all the cosmic forces in the winter. In the spring the earth is breathing out.”

Michael has worked as a winemaker at biodynamic vineyards in Napa as well as Santa Barbara. I asked him if he ever questioned the cosmic aspect of biodynamics. He told me about his grandmother in Sweden, who had a large beautiful garden. During one part of the year they applied cow manure to the garden. Later in the year they would go find horse manure to put on the garden. Why? Because it worked. He says, “I’m scienceminded but there are some things you have to let go. You can just let them be because they are.” In the case of biodynamics the proof is in the results.

A biodynamic farmer sees the whole farm as a living organism, biodiverse and as self-sufficient as possible—a way of life that emphasizes the communication and relationships between human, animal, plant, soil and the universe.

To increase biodiversity and self-sufficiency, Nan plans to bring cows, chickens, horses and miniature Brahma cattle onto the ranch. She already has goats. Nan and Michael have taken classes and set up their own beehives for pollination. Bees are part of the living organism. Steiner studied the bees and warned in 1924 that modern artificial breeding methods would eventually have dire consequences.

Winemaker Michael Roth holding a sprig of yarrow that is grown in the vineyard.

They’ve set aside an area for growing vegetables and at the end of each row of grapevines they have planted the flowering plants and herbs that will be infused into their own biodynamic compost. A spring-fed pond supplies water, but they hope to move toward more dry farming.

The biodynamic winemaker honors the subtle characteristics of the place where the grapes are grown—a unique time and place preserved in a wine bottle. Michael uses the indigenous yeasts from the skins of the grapes for fermentation and adds no sugar or acidity enhancements to his wines.

I thank Michael for the visit. As I drive back to Santa Barbara I think about how each of these farmers has helped me see beyond the stuffing of cow horns and creation of water vortices to gain a deeper appreciation for biodynamic principles. They have given me an appreciation for the rhythms of life above and below the soil and made me aware of the valuable interconnection of all life forms to the health and heartbeat of our planet. Denise may be right that the key to saving the planet is in the soil.

Nancy Oster just returned from a two-week trip driving though the Southwest, where she observed, breathed in and tasted soil of all colors and textures in desert landscapes and from the rim of the Grand Canyon. Millions of years of painfully slow soil building and the rugged determination of plants to establish homes in the most inhospitable of soils is awe-inspiring. You can see photos and read about this trip on her blog at nancyoster.blogspot.com.

Resources for Home Gardeners

Malibu Compost

Biodynamic compost and compost tea products. Available locally at 7 Day Nursery, Aqua-Flo Supply Goleta and Santa Barbara, Island Seed and Feed, Island View Nursery, Terra Sol Garden Center. (malibucompost.com)

Healing Grounds Nursery

Vegetable and herb seedlings. Available locally at Terra Sol Garden Center, La Sumida, 7 Day Nursery, Island Seed and Feed, Home Improvement Center, Island View Nursery, Santa Ynez Valley Hardware, Seaside Gardens. (healinggroundsnursery.com)

Resources for Farmers and Wineries

Philippe Armenier, biodynamic consultant. (biodynamicsoil.com)

Philippe Coderey, biodynamic consultant. (growbdc.com)

Wineries in Santa Barbara County Using Biodynamic Methods

Ampelos Cellars and Vineyard

Tasting room: 11am–5pm, Thursday–Sunday or by appointment

312 N. Ninth St., Lompoc, CA 93436 805 736-9957 (ampeloscellars.com)

Beckmen Vineyards

Tasting room: 11am–5pm daily

2670 Ontiveros, Los Olivos, CA 93441 805 688-8664 (beckmenvineyards.com)

Demetria Estate

Call for tasting appointments

6701 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos, CA 93441 805 686-2345 (demetriaestate.com)

Martian Ranch & Vineyard 888 999-8604 (martianvineyard.com)

Melville Vineyards and Winery

Tasting room: 11am–4pm daily

5185 E. Hwy 246, Lompoc, CA 93436 805 735-5310 (melvillewinery.com)

Presidio Vineyard & Winery

Tasting room: 11am–6 pm daily

1603 Copenhagen Dr. #1, Solvang, CA 805 693-8585 (presidiowinery.com)

Qupé and Verdad

Tasting room: 11am–5pm daily 2963 Grand Ave. Suite B, Los Olivos, CA 93441 805 686-4200 (qupe.com and verdadwines.com)

I Am a Lazy Gardener (So I Can Spend More Time Cooking)

by Janice Cook Knight

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAROLE TOPALIAN

Shhhh … don’t tell anybody, but I’m a lazy gardener. If a plant requires lots of fuss, I’m probably not going to grow it. I like plants that help themselves.

Some edible plants are very easy to grow and, once established, low-maintenance. Many plants come back or simply stay every year without having to be replanted, reseeded or fussed over. This little secret is something I’ve had to learn over time. My first gardens contained more annuals, like tomatoes, cucumbers, peas and beans, which needed to be replanted every year. And because I love eating those foods, I’m still willing to fuss with some of them in the summer. The truth is, my husband is usually the one who likes planting those. What I relish are the plants and herbs that stay for several years or more, producing fruits or vegetables or tasty leaves and flowers with minimal effort.

What are a few of my favorites? Artichokes are a great plant for our climate. With their attractive gray-green foliage, they are beautiful in the landscape. They’re large plants: several feet across and three or four feet tall. In spring and early summer they send up the chokes that we love to steam and eat.

Cut the first big artichoke, and many side shoots will then produce smaller chokes, which can be picked very small and even eaten whole. And if you get tired of artichokes, or just want to add a little more beauty to your yard, don’t pick the remaining chokes and they will turn into the most gorgeous purple blossoms—like giant thistles, which is exactly what they are. In the fall the leaves will die back and all but disappear; a few months later new shoots emerge, and by late winter you’ll have a large plant again, ready to produce another round of chokes in the spring.

Fennel is another plant that is surprisingly resilient. The first year I grew it, I assumed that when I cut the bulbs that was it, I would have to replant. But I discovered a huge root system below the bulb. I had pulled it out, but I replanted the root, just to see what would happen. Three or four years later, I am still harvesting the bulbs (several from the same root), trimming them off at the base above the root. I do this about twice a year. Sometimes I’ve let one of the fennel bulbs go to seed, and in this case the seeds get scattered in the garden and may come back as new plants. So it’s a double miracle with

Above from left: fennel, borage, aspargus, artichokes in bloom.

very little work on my part: keeping them watered, and adding fresh fertilizer occasionally.

There’s nothing quite like the taste of just-picked asparagus, which is even delicious raw. Five years ago my husband, Jim, and I decided to establish an asparagus bed. We bought the asparagus rootlets, known as “crowns,” in January when they are available at nurseries. We planted them in soil that had been amended with sand and compost. You want the soil to be nice and loose, and it should be deep. We waited two years for our first harvest, because it gives the plants a chance to get established. Later I learned this was probably not necessary, as the asparagus crowns are often two years old already when offered for purchase. Happily we now harvest asparagus two or three times a week from March into the beginning of June. In summer, we let the plants go to seed: We stop harvesting and let the remaining asparagus send up tall shoots that soon burst into feathery fronds. In fall, the plants sport small red berries that are very pretty. In November and December the stalks turn brown, and we cut them down to the ground. And in spring, they start all over and we begin harvesting. Amazingly, an asparagus bed can survive for 20–30 years! We do fertilize with rich compost at least once a year.

Edible herbs and flowers are part of our permanent landscape. Most of these are perennials: lovage (a relative of celery, with leaves that taste similar), bay laurel (makes a lovely tree), winter savory, several varieties of thyme, lemon balm, lemon verbena, lemongrass, mint, rosemary and sage are plants we use often for seasoning, or to make tea. Borage, with its pretty blue edible flowers (nice in salads), reseeds itself every year. At the edge of a small koi pond we’re growing watercress, which grows like a weed, and is harvested often for tasty soups and salad. Roses are a perennial that provide tasty and attractive blossoms in salads.

Friends of mine have discovered their own easy edibles. One grows sorrel in a planter box, a plant she’s had for years. It’s quite large and just keeps giving her sorrel in every season, though it tastes sweeter in cool weather. It gives a delicate lemony taste in soups.

Another friend has a patch of nasturtiums that reseed themselves in spring and summer. I see nasturtiums growing wild all over town. Pick the (unsprayed) flowers to make a golden pesto.

Fruit trees provide lots of edible food with very little care. Most need pruning once a year, and adequate water, though many are fairly drought tolerant once established. Citrus are amazing for the amount of fruit one tree can provide. The fruit needn’t be harvested all at once—it can hang there for many months, just waiting to provide juice or a snack. And the other fruit trees—Panamint-variety nectarines, for example—provide such a delicious treat that even with a fairly short season (June) they are worth it. Most years I spend one winter day pruning the apple, apricot, plum and other deciduous fruit trees.

Eat Local Food… in Italy!

Torino. Pasta. Monferrato. Asti. Langhe. Goat Cheese. Barolo. Lake Maggiore. Salumi. Pasta. White Truffle Hunt.

A Unique “edible” Tour of Italy’s Piemonte Region

September 22–29, 2012

Spend a week with the publishers of Edible Santa Barbara as you enjoy an in-depth and all-inclusive seven-day, culinary tour of the stunning Piemonte (Piedmont) region of Italy. Piemonte is famous for truffles, wine and amazing food, and fall is the best time to experience it. We will visit wineries, craft breweries, artisan food makers and cheese producers.

Our tour is geared for the food and wine lover who wants a unique experience in a small, friendly group of like-minded foodies, with an all-inclusive price ($2,995 per person, double occupancy) and the fulltime services of a professional guide and local experts.

To Find Out More…

Go to ediblesantabarbara.com

“Events” or scan the code at right for a detailed itinerary. Or call Shannon at GrapeHops: 866 335-3397

You won’t see me growing cilantro, because it goes to seed so fast it never seems worth it. You’ll see me picking that up at the farmers market. But you will see me cooking asparagus, fennel and artichokes in the spring, making a nectarine tart in the summer and applesauce in the fall—and all this lazy gardener did was help them grow.

Janice Cook Knight is the author of Follow Your Heart’s Vegetarian Soup Cookbook and The Follow Your Heart Cookbook: Recipes from the Vegetarian Restaurant. She has taught cooking for over 25 years and currently teaches a cookbook-writing workshop. She lives in Santa Barbara with her family. janicecookknight.com

Lazy Tips

• Artichokes can be grown from seed but it’s easier to buy them bare-root in January and February. Buy bare-root asparagus plants then also.

• Buy edible plants in six-packs rather than starting from seed. You’ll have greater success, and it gives us lazy gardeners a head start of several weeks.

• If you live in a gopher habitat, as I do, line your garden beds with gopher wire first, or use gopher baskets for individual plants, available at nurseries. This saves a great deal of plant loss, money and heartache.

• If you don’t have a drip system, invest in a few soaker hoses for your fruit trees and garden beds. Give plants a long slow drink of water a couple of times a week. You’ll use less water and water more deeply than using overhead sprinklers.

• Use good organic compost to feed your soil. Healthy soil creates healthy plants, with minimal work on my part. I’m currently using Malibu Compost’s biodynamic “Bu’s Blend” in my garden. I love that it comes from organically fed cows—it’s a clean garden product.

Recipe

Broiled Fennel with Parmesan

Fennel bulbs are crisp and refreshing sliced raw in salads. The bulbs are also delicious roasted or broiled, as in this recipe. Adapted from Lee Bailey’s Soup Meals by Lee Bailey

Serves 6–8

3 large fennel bulbs (about 11 ⁄ 2 pounds), trimmed top and bottom and cut lengthwise into generous ¼-inch slices

6 or more tablespoons good-quality olive oil

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 ⁄4 pound pancetta (Italian unsmoked bacon), sliced thin (optional)*

6 or more tablespoons coarsely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Preheat broiler.

Place slices of fennel in a single layer in a shallow pan. Smear generously with the olive oil, then sprinkle with salt and generously pepper. Broil for about 5 minutes. Some edges will blacken slightly. Carefully cover fennel completely with the pancetta and return to the broiler. Broil until pancetta is crisp, about 11 ⁄ 2 minutes. (If not using pancetta, simply broil fennel about 6 or 7 minutes.) Using tongs, turn over the individual slices of fennel with or without pancetta so that the pancetta is on bottom. Place under broiler for 3 more minutes. Remove and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, making sure all surfaces are coated. Return to broiler until cheese starts to brown, about 11 ⁄ 2 to 2 minutes.

Allow to remain in the pan until ready to serve. Do not refrigerate, but serve at room temperature. Pour oil from the pan over each serving, adding additional oil if needed. Add more pepper if desired.

*When you purchase the pancetta, have the very thin slices placed on a sheet of wax paper, not touching or overlapping. If one slice is put on top of the other without paper in between, they will stick together.

Fennel

Alfonso-Curran Samsara, Verdad, Paige 23 Wine by the Glass Tasting Flights Beer Tastings

Ken Jacobsen, Michelle Martinich, Jeff DeVine, and Laurie Leighty

Almonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend

By Becky Green Aaronson

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEANINE BRANDI M C LYCHOK

Zaya in the February almond orchard with her family dog Buttercup. Her parents, Nate and Bekki Siemens, own Fat Uncle Farms in Wasco. This orchard is on the same land where Bekki grew up.

OK,

I’ll admit it: I’m addicted. Totally, completely, hopelessly addicted. The first step to recovery is ’fessing up, right? Well, there. I did it.

As I type these words, my daily habit is propelling me to munch on almond after delicious almond and sip coffee swimming in almond milk. Later I’ll have almond crunch cereal and almond butter on my toast, then most likely slivered almonds on a salad before finally topping my day off with something sweet like chocolate-covered almonds, or maybe even more decadent marzipan, which is made with almonds and sugar. Yep, this divine little nut has a grip on me. Instead of entering AA (Almonds Anonymous), I’ve decided to find out more about these delectable nuts to see if I can justify my habit. Turns out, it’s one of the best things I’ve ever done. I no longer have to feel guilty about my addiction. In fact, I’ve become the lead singer in the Almond ’Allelujah Choir because these heavenly little nuts are great for me … and you!

Almonds are one of the most nutrient-dense tree nuts around, packing such a powerful nutritional punch they’re considered one of the top 10 “super foods.” Just one tiny ounce, or about 20–25 almonds, provides 35% of our recommended daily dose of vitamin E. Almonds also contain compounds called phytochemicals, which may help protect against cardiovascular disease and cancer. They’re also high in protein, having as much, ounce for ounce, as red meat—but without the cholesterol. And since they’re a plant-based protein, most of the fat in almonds is monosaturated, also known as the “good” fat.

Honey-covered almonds in a mixing bowl, waiting to be coated in sugar and coconut flakes.

Every February at Fat Uncle Farms the almond trees are in spectacular bloom.

Fat Uncle Farms in February. They keep their own bees, which play a critical role in pollinating the blossoms in the orchard. Once a blossom is pollinated, a seed grows and becomes the almond.

The almond orchard in the summer. Right: The almonds on the tree just before harvest with their fuzzy outer hull.

The crew at Fat Uncle Farms. Back row standing from left: Dane Uhler, Jillie Uhler, Brandon McGillic, Krista Colbry, Carly Uhler, Nate Siemens (owner). Front row from left: Christabel Siemens, Elias Siemens, Ben Bingham and Mike Vergeer.

Fat Uncle Farms at fatunclefarms.com

These powerhouse nuts are also an excellent source of magnesium, potassium, phosphorous and zinc, and they contain a load of healthy fiber. And let’s not forget folic acid, which is important for pregnant women and also aids in preventing anemia and high blood pressure; not to mention calcium, which helps prevent osteoporosis.

I say forget the diamonds … almonds are a girl’s best friend. Hear that, guys? Nothing says, “I love you” like a pound of fresh almonds. Just be sure to sneak some for yourself too, so you also get all the healthy benefits as well.

Where did these little gems come from, you ask? Nowhere near the diamond mines of South Africa, but rather the warm climes of the Mediterranean—specifically the Middle East. They’ve been around since ancient times and, in fact, are mentioned in the Bible several times. From Turkey and Syria, almonds were brought along the shores of the Mediterranean into northern Africa and southern Europe—mainly Greece, Italy and Spain—before arriving in California with the Spanish padres in the early 1800s. When the California Gold Rush brought new settlers called the 49ers who mined for gold, they also became interested in the fertile soil and began experimenting with various crops like olives, grapes and almonds.

Now almonds are California’s largest tree crop and one of our state’s top agricultural exports. In fact, California’s multibilliondollar industry produces 80% of the world’s supply and 100% of our country’s supply. Almonds have become such a valuable commodity, there are even reports of almond rustling in the Central Valley. One Fresno farmer reported 88,000 pounds of his almonds stolen from his shipping yard, with an estimated street value of $260,000.

It’s easy to understand why almonds are in such high demand. They are, in a nutshell (yes, pun intended), divine. Nothing quite compares to biting into a fresh, regionally grown almond. It makes your taste buds feel like they’re spinning through the air on a warm summer day.

On a recent outing to Santa Barbara’s farmers market, I had the pleasure of sampling almonds and specialty almond products from Fat Uncle Farms. Owners Nate and Bekki Siemens and their young family make

the three-hour drive down from Wasco, northwest of Bakersfield, several times a week to bring their almonds to the farmers market. Nate, whose father and grandfather were both almonds growers, is quick to smile as he hands out his samples. “Try these,” he says as he opens a brown bag and pours a few “blistered almonds” into my hand. “These are our original creations. They’re similar to ‘blistered peanuts,’ but we’ve taken almonds to a whole different level.”

As I munch on a Cajun-flavored almond, not only do I taste its zippy flavor, I notice the nut itself is much lighter and crunchier than a raw almond. Nate explains: “When we make ‘blistered’ almonds, we first soak the shelled, blanched almonds in water, then season them before roasting them. The ‘blistered effect’ is a result of air pockets forming during the roasting process, which then evaporate, making the almonds lighter and crunchier.”

Nate, Bekki and their employees have created several distinct and popular flavors— everything from Cajun to “cinnalmond” to Chinese to rosemary and garlic-herb. Their most popular flavor is honey-roasted, which I find myself unable to stop eating. The fiveounce re-sealable bags are priced at $5 each, or two bags for $8.

Fat Uncle Farms also sells fresh whole raw and sea-salt-roasted almonds, almond butter, almond flour, Dutch and North African marzipan (almond paste) and, occasionally, almond milk. They do a brisk business, selling 40,000 pounds a year from their 18-acre family farm, which they’ve been operating since 1981. Prior to that, Bekki’s family owned it.

Every February, when almond trees are in spectacular bloom in the Central Valley, bees are brought in from all over the United States to pollinate them. It is one of the largest managed pollination projects in the world— taking 1.2 million bees to do the job. But it is not without controversy. Transporting and trucking the bees long distances has been linked to the declining health of the nation’s honeybees.

Fat Uncle Farms keeps its own bees for its orchard, and also lends a hand to surrounding farms during the pollination process. Responsible growers like Nate and

Bekki are trying to help the bees by providing other types of flowering plants before and after the almond bloom.

Depending on weather, harvest usually happens in late July or early August. Machines are brought in to shake the trees, making the nuts fall to the ground, then another machine comes in behind to sweep them up so they can be taken to a processing plant. California’s largest almond factory, which processes 2 million pounds a day, is located in Sacramento.

While almonds are one of the healthiest foods around, they also make for some of our most decadent desserts. Just walk into Andersen’s Bakery on State Street and see what I mean. Stepping through the front door is like entering almond dessert heaven. The sweet smell alone will lift you a few feet off the ground.

Inside Andersen’s, I search for one of my favorite almond horn cookies, but immediately find myself sidetracked by the exquisite marzipan petit fours dazzling the display case. Designed in the shape of delicate

gift-wrapped presents, at first they seem too beautiful to eat, looking more like little boxes that would hold diamond earrings. When owner Birgit Andersen slices one open for me, though, I know what’s inside is far better than jewels; these little beauties are gifts sent from heaven. One bite sends me flying into the clouds.

“We make all of our desserts with almond meal [flour] and we use three tons of marzipan a year,” Birgit explains to me. As I look around the bakery and witness the sea of grins on customers’ faces, I know the secret is in the almonds.

After sampling petit fours, an almond kringle, an almond macaroon cookie, then topping it off with an almond horn, I leave Andersen’s Bakery, wondering if it’s safe for me to drive. I hope I’m not pulled over for being under the influence of marzipan.

Renaud’s Patisserie and Bistro is famous for its almond croissants, so later in the week I venture to Loreto Plaza on upper State Street in search of one. When I find the display case devoid of their signature pastry, the

young brunette behind the counter says, “I’m sorry, we’re already sold out. They’re our most popular item, so you have to get here early in the morning before they’re all gone.”

After finally getting my hands on one of these gems late in the week, it became instantly clear why these pastries are in such high demand: The delicate and flaky croissant filled with fresh almond paste and sprinkled with slivered almonds is wickedly delicious.

Unfortunately, most of the health benefits disappear in this decadent form, but every once in a while, a girl’s gotta do what a girl’s gotta do. Thankfully, my husband senses my overindulgence and once again brings home a bag of fresh raw almonds. He knows that Marilyn Monroe may prefer diamonds, but almonds will always be this girl’s best friend.

Becky Green Aaronson is an award-winning writer who lives with her husband and daughter in Santa Barbara. She’s currently writing a book, The Art of an Improbable Life: My Twenty Years with an International Photojournalist, and writes a blog with the same title (animprobablelife.com).

WHAT THE WINEMAKERS ARE DRINKING: BEER

There’s a saying that’s often repeated around Santa Ynez Valley: “It takes a lot of great beer to make good wine.” Or is it good beer and great wine? Well, luckily we have both around here. With beer so often being the beverage of choice among people who work in the wine industry, we thought it fitting to invite a small group of winemakers to taste a sampling of local brews.

Our guests for the tasting were Karen Steinwachs of Buttonwood Farm Winery, Rick Longoria of Longoria Wines, Jason Barrette of Margerum Wine Company, Nick Morello of Morello Wines and Dave Potter of Municipal Winemakers. They tasted, they swallowed, they talked about the brews and occasionally about wine, and they even told us what they love about beer—there’s nothing more refreshing after a hard day’s work.

Rye Extra Pale Ale — Telegraph Brewing Company

We started off our tasting with the lightest of the beers and, coincidently, one that was specifically created by Telegraph for winemakers to help get them through the hard work of harvest. Well, Telegraph must know what winemakers like, because all five of ours loved this beer. They liked the fact that it only had 4% alcohol and said it could almost be dubbed the forklift operator’s beer. But beyond being just refreshing, they complimented the not-too-fruity and well-balanced flavors of the beer, picking up a little beeswax character and rich texture. It paired beautifully with cheese, which brought out an extra bit of creaminess in the beer. (telegraphbrewing.com)

Davy Brown Ale — Figueroa Mountain Brewing Company

This beer, named after an eccentric character who lived in the back country near Figueroa Mountain in the late 1800s, was pretty well known to our winemakers and was immediately named super drinkable. With nutty, caramel, mocha and chocolate flavors it manages to be rich but fresh at the same time. We liked the not overly carbonated texture that allowed the flavor to really come through. One winemaker said it was light on its feet and that it goes really well with hot wings. We found that it paired nicely with beer-battered onion rings, beef carbonnade and any cheese we threw at it. (figmtnbrew.com)

Hippie Kicker IPA — Hollister Brewing Company

This India Pale Ale is described as a bold and brash American-style IPA. And it’s true that the aroma hits you smack in the face with its intense floral quality. But with one sip you realize just how balanced this beer is. Any more hoppiness would be too much, but the nice bitter notes and superb silky texture are just right. It paired perfectly with a warm spinach bacon salad but would also be great with grilled cheese, steaks, barbecue and, in a nod to its origins, Indian food. One taster said, “I don’t normally drink IPAs, but this one is great.” (hollisterbrewco.com)

Black Mamba Ale — Island Brewing Company

A Black Mamba is an American Black Ale or a Black IPA. It’s a real sleight-of-hand trick—looking like a dark stout, but tasting more like an IPA. The color on this one was nice and dark and the flavor had hints of Scotch and pine. One person said it was the perfect cigar beer and others said it was more of a fireside beer. Cheese was definitely a nice companion. We all wondered could the opposite sleight-of-hand trick be possible, a light-colored beer that tasted like a stout? (islandbrewingcompany.com)

Doppel Dunkel Weizen Bock — The

Brewhouse

Pronunciation and saying the name of this beer a few times fast proved challenging (hint: Dunkel doesn’t rhyme with uncle). This is also an unusual style of beer—a dark Bavarian-style wheat beer. The special strain of yeast used creates a pronounced banana flavor and a fruity nose. It’s a real dessert beer—sweet, unfiltered and strong (around 9% alcohol). We tried pairing it with some dessert cheeses—an aged Gouda and a decadent triple-crème cheese, but it could also be quite decadent with chocolate. (brewhousesb.com)

Velvet Merlin — Firestone Walker Brewing Company

This is a classic oatmeal stout, nicely balanced with so much flavor. Our winemakers noted the malty, roasty and rich charred flavors, saying that it had a really attractive espresso quality to it. One winemaker said it was a great end of the day beer, a reward after a long day of work. It’s also very much a winter beer. Serve it at 55°–60°, a little warmer than your typical lager, and you’ll appreciate it on our colder evenings. We paired it with gelato and brown butter sea salt shortbread cookies, and it was delicious. But it is also so flavorful and well balanced that it could stand on its own. (firestonebeer.com)

We should note that we tasted all of these beers from growlers, which are half gallon glass jugs that you can buy and get refilled at all of these breweries. Telegraph, Figueroa Mountain, Island and Firestone are also available in bottles at area stores and on tap in many local restaurants.

You don’t have to be a winemaker to appreciate good beer, but it sure doesn’t hurt to have a thriving wine industry in an area that is increasingly becoming known for its great beer, too.

Krista Harris contributed to this piece with input from our intrepid team of winemakers—Karen Steinwachs, Rick Longoria, Jason Barrette, Nick Morello and Dave Potter

Dining Guide edible

Santa Barbara County

has its own unique food traditions—from Santa Maria barbecue to Santa Barbara spot prawns and the world-class local wines that accompany them—so we’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants that create the distinctively Santa Barbara dining experience. Restaurants are chosen for this dining guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients in their menus and their commitment to real food.

Santa Barbara and Carpinteria

Backyard Bowls

Santa Barbara Locations:

331 Motor Way 805 845-5379

3849 State St., La Cumbre (next to Vons) 805 569-0011

Goleta Location: 5668 Calle Real 805 770-2730 backyardbowls.com

Santa Barbara’s most innovative breakfast and lunch spot featuring Acai Bowls and smoothies. They also offer oatmeal, yogurt, smoothies and more. Mon–Fri 7am–6pm; Sat–Sun 8am–6pm. La Cumbre open till 9pm.

Bouchon

9 W. Victoria St.

Santa Barbara 805 730-1160

bouchonsantabarbara.com

Bouchon sources all of its ingredients using an “as-fresh-and-as-local-as-possible” approach, and Chef Greg Murphy is a familiar sight at the local farmers markets. Experience fine dining, excellent regional wines and relaxed service in a warm, inviting ambience. Private dining in the Cork Room is available for groups of 10–20. Dinner nightly from 5:30pm.

Carlitos Café y Cantina

1324 State St.

Santa Barbara 805 962-7117

carlitos.com

Enjoy fresh Mexican cuisine across from the historic Arlington Theatre on State Street in a sun-filled patio while the beautiful dining room features lovely views and a Cantina stocked with 100% Blue Agave tequilas. Member Santa Barbara Sustainable Seafood Program. Open daily 11am–10pm.

Cava Restaurant & Bar

1212 Coast Village Rd.

Montecito 805 969-8500

cavarestaurant.com

Experience the bold flavors of superb Latin cuisine from Spain, Mexico and South America in a romantic setting in Montecito. Member Santa Barbara Sustainable Seafood Program. Open daily 11am–11pm, weekend breakfast from 8am.

Coast Restaurant

31 W. Carrillo St.

Santa Barbara

805 879-9100

canarysantabarbara.com

Coast Restaurant and Bar offers savory, accessible comfort food in the heart of downtown Santa Barbara at the Canary Hotel. The food at Coast reflects Santa Barbara’s plentiful bounty of local seafood and farmers market produce. Restaurant serving 7am–10pm daily. Bar open Mon–Thurs 11am–11pm and Fri–Sat 11am–midnight.

Giannfranco’s Trattoria

666 Linden Ave.

Carpinteria

805 684-0720

giannfrancos.com

Experience authentic Northern and Southern Italian regional cuisine at this family-owned and -operated trattoria in downtown Carpinteria. Chef Giovanni prepares each dish from the freshest local and imported foods to offer his creative take on Tuscan grill specialties. Weekday lunch served 11am–3pm. Weekend lunch served noon–3pm. Dinner served 5–9pm. Closed Tuesday.

Goodland Kitchen & Market

231 S. Magnolia Ave.

Old Town Goleta 805 845-4300

goodlandkitchen.com

The Goodland Market is a grab-and-go eatery in Old Town Goleta, specializing in delicious, locally sourced and affordable meals. They prepare food in small batches and utilize produce from local farmers to provide an exceptional culinary experience. Mon–Fri 7am–2:30pm; Sat 8am–2pm.

Pizza Guru

3534 State St.

Santa Barbara 805 563-3250

pizzaguru.com

Locally owned and operated, Pizza Guru serves traditional and eccentric gourmet pizzas, salads, panini and pastas made fresh daily from locally sourced, organic ingredients. They also specialize in vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free pizzas. Mon–Sat 11am–9:30pm, Sunday 11:30–8:30pm.

Renaud’s Patisserie & Bistro

Loreto Plaza at 3315 State St.

Santa Barbara 805 569-2400

1324 State St.

Santa Barbara 805 892-2800

renaudsbakery.com

Renaud’s is a bakery specializing in French pastries and French-style cakes, as well as a bistro offering an extensive menu for lunch and dinner. Open daily 7am–3pm, and until 5pm Mon–Sat at Loreto Plaza.

Seagrass

30 E. Ortega St.

Santa Barbara 805 963-1012

seagrassrestaurant.com

Seagrass offers a fresh Santa Barbara Coastal Cuisine fine dining experience, procuring the highest quality ingredients available and superior local bounty. Open Mon–Thu 5:30–10pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10:30pm; Sun 5:30–9:30pm.

Sojourner Café

134 E. Cañon Perdido St.

Santa Barbara 805 965-7922

sojournercafe.com

The Sojourner has been serving unique dishes created with wholesome natural ingredients for over 30 years. They purchase organic produce from local growers, carry local wines and beers and are known for their innovative desserts. Serving lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. Open daily 11am–11pm, Sunday 11am–10pm.

The Wine Cask

813 Anacapa St.

Santa Barbara 805 966-9463

winecask.com

The Wine Cask Restaurant offers fine dining in their exquisite Gold Room and the Wine Cask Bar Café offers casual dining in the courtyard, patio or by their cozy fireplace. Their food is sourced from area farms and local purveyors. They also have a tasting room where you can sample some of the finest wines of Santa Barbara County. Restaurant nightly from 5:30pm; bar and café Mon–Fri 11am–10pm, Sat–Sun 4–10pm; Tasting Room daily noon–6pm.

santa barbara

bouchon

Santa Ynez Valley

Avant Tapas & Wine

35 Industrial Way

Buellton

805 686-9400

avantwines.com

Avant offers a selection of savory tapas, gourmet pizzas and desserts that are the perfect counterpoint to the over 30 wines available for tasting at their state-of-the-art production facility. Open Monday, Thursday and Sunday 11am–8pm, Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

Dos Carlitos Restaurant & Tequila Bar

3544 Sagunto St.

Santa Ynez

805 688-0033

doscarlitosrestaurant.com

Dos Carlitos offers inspired Mexican and Latin cuisine handcrafted from the freshest ingredients to accompany its award-winning 100% Blue Agave margaritas. Dos Carlitos is a place to enjoy friends and family in a relaxed outdoor patio or casual indoor setting. Member Santa Barbara Sustainable Seafood Program. Open daily 11am–10pm.

Full of Life Flatbread

225 W. Bell St.

Los Alamos

805 344-4400

fulloflifefoods.com

FULL of LIFE

Flatbread

On weekends Full of Life Flatbread converts their production flatbread bakery space into a restaurant and offers an extremely innovative menu based almost entirely on what is grown locally and in season. Open Fri–Sat 5–10pm, Sunday 4–8pm.

Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café

2879 Grand Ave.

Los Olivos

805 688-7265

losolivoscafe.com

The Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café brings together the best flavors of the Central Coast. Their award-winning wine list offers over 500 wines, primarily from Central Coast winemakers, to enjoy with their fresh, seasonal and local cuisine, or to enjoy at home. Open for lunch and dinner daily 11:30am–8:30pm.

Root 246

420 Alisal Rd.

Solvang

805 686-8681

root-246.com

Root 246 in Solvang offers a full menu of farmto-table creations and one of the most extensive selections of local wine. The contemporary yet comfortable setting includes a main dining room, a “chefs room” for private dining, two lounges and an outdoor patio. Wed–Sun: bar opens at 4pm with dinner at 5pm.

The Hitching Post II

406 E. Highway 246

Buellton

805 688-0676

hitchingpost2.com

From Santa Maria–style barbecue to more contemporary cuisine such as smoked duck breast, ostrich, homemade soups and outstanding pastries, The Hitching Post II also offers their own world-class Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Wines. Open daily except major holidays. Cocktails/wine tasting Mon–Fri at 4pm, Sat–Sun at 3pm. Dinners only Mon–Fri 5–9:30pm, Sat–Sun 4–9:30pm.

IThe Zest of Winter

MEYER LEMONS AND BLOOD ORANGES

by Pascale Beale

were developed that the culinary uses of the fruit that originated in India (in the form of pickles and condiments) and North Africa (in the form of preserved fruit) made their way into the cuisines of France, England and Spain.

n 1520, as Ferdinand Magellan struggled to find the passage around South America, his crews slowly perished from scurvy. Out of 230 aboard, 208 were lost, mostly to this disease. Twenty years earlier, as Vasco da Gama opened up the spice routes to India, 60% of his crew also died from scurvy— and yet herbal and dietary cures had been known for millennia.

As Jonathan Lamb describes in his book Preserving the Self in the South Seas 1680–1840, more than two million sailors lost their lives to this debilitating illness between 1500–1800. How ironic it is, then, that as they opened up trade routes and explored new territories to the west, they carried within their ship holds the very substance that could cure them: the saplings of lemons, limes and oranges.

It was not until 1747, when James Lind, a Scottish physician in the service of the Royal Navy, proved that scurvy could be treated with daily doses of citrus fruit. Vitamin C was the antidote to the disease. Why it took the Navy another 100-plus years to adopt this regimen is somewhat mysterious, but so essential to survival at sea, it became part of English ordinances on all trade and war vessels. British ships were commonly known as “limejuicers” and their sailors “Limeys,” a nickname for all British people that remains to this day.

Although the precise origin of lemons remains unknown, there is evidence to suggest that they initially grew in India and parts of Southeast Asia. Indeed, India is the world’s largest grower of lemons and limes.

They were introduced to Europe by the Arabs and by the fourth century were farmed in Northern Africa, Sicily and Spain. Lemons became widespread in Medieval Europe but were often used as an ornamental plant, rather than for fruit. It was only as trade routes

From there they migrated westward and were introduced to the Americas by Christopher Columbus, who brought them in 1493 on his second sea voyage, to Haiti. Subsequent Spanish conquests throughout those territories furthered the spread of the fruit, but it wasn’t until the arrival of Spanish missionaries on the California coast in 1757 that lemons and oranges were established here. Nearly 100 years later as California’s population grew with the advent of the Gold Rush, so too did the cultivation of the citrus groves. California is now the largest producer of America’s

“It was only as I arrived in California that I really discovered the pleasures and versatility of cooking with lemons.”

lemon industry. Goleta was once a well-known lemon-producing region. Today most of the orchards have given way to housing developments, although lemons are still the 12th-ranked crop in Santa Barbara County.

As the lemon migrated westward, so too have I. My travels and upbringing, I realize, were, oddly enough, flavored with lemons. One of my earliest childhood memories is that of standing in a very small, old and quaint sweet shop. Large bottles, glass containers that looked like apothecary jars and vast bowls were all lined up on wooden shelves and in ornate glass cases. They held jewel-toned sweets of every possible description and color. Traditional British candies such as sherberts, Berwick cockles, barley sugar and Liquorice Allsorts lay in tempting mounds. Lollipops in all shapes and sizes lined the tops of the cases, but best of all were the lemon bonbons. Covered in confectioners sugar, these pale golden orbs—the size of a small grape—were deceptive. You’d pop one in your mouth and once past the sugar that powdered your lips, an intense lemon-flavored sweet would slowly dissolve in your mouth. Your lips would pucker, you’d squeeze your eyes shut and suck in the sides of your cheeks. It was intense and fantastic all at once.

Lemons have been imprinted on my taste buds ever since. My childhood in London was filled with lemon-flavored dishes: a luscious lemon chicken in our favorite Chinese restaurant; an unbelievably hot lemon relish in the local Indian restaurant that brought tears to your eyes, but somehow always left you wanting more; a delicately flavored Avgolemono soup from the Greek delicatessen around the corner and ethereal lemon tarts that came from my favorite French patisserie.

These were classics, but it was only as I arrived in California that I really discovered the pleasures and versatility of cooking with lemons, influenced by the multi-ethnic cuisines that are part of the state’s immigrant tapestry. It was here that I first tasted Meyer lemons. They were a revelation. Their thin, delicate skin and sweeter flavor made them perfect for salads, and vinaigrettes made with these lemons had a distinctive flavor. Being able to eat the skin—like the preserved lemons of Morocco—they transformed dishes that I had previously made with regular lemons. The halibut recipe included with this article is such a dish.

Lemons are a natural flavor enhancer. They are also filled with natural pectin, making them indispensible in making preserves and act as the curing agent in ceviche, gravlax and other fish preparations. I think I have been on a lemon craze ever since. Everywhere I turned there were lemon and orange trees. People had citrus fruit falling all over their gardens. Whereas I grew up observing citrus trees confined to the, albeit beautiful, surroundings of an orangery, here they were en masse on street corners literally raining fruit on the pavement. It’s hard to describe how fabulous that was to someone who lived in a climate where the temperature rarely rose above 50° for six months of the year. It was akin to having permanent sunshine in your kitchen.

I started making marmalade year round. Myriad varieties: classic tart orange, but also lemon-orange or four citrus, which included limes, and then I discovered blood oranges. I remember having blood orange juice in Italy when I was small, but again it wasn’t until I lived in Southern California that they became regular fixtures in my farmers market basket. Orange salads using this variety are visually dramatic and have an added floral note. Their sensational purple-orange color comes from anthocyanins, which are enhanced by the cool nights and warm days that are a feature of our winter Mediterranean climate. They are also rich in antioxidants and vitamin C. There are three main varieties: Moro, Sanguinello and Tarroco. The latter is the sweetest variety. All three can be found in Southern California during their November-to-May season.

It always seemed odd to me that what is thought of as the ubiquitous year-round fruit is in fact in season during winter. The great pleasure, however, is that even on the coldest, wettest winter day you can have an invigorating dash of sunshine in the form of a Meyer lemon or a blood orange. Both will enliven your food and bring a certain zest to the season.

Pascale Beale grew up in England and France surrounded by a family that has always been passionate about food, wine and the arts. She was taught to cook by her French mother and grandmother. She is the author of A Menu for All Seasons—Spring, A Menu for All Seasons—Summer, A Menu for All Seasons— Fall and A Menu for All Seasons—Winter. She is a member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals and lives in Santa Barbara with her family.

Recipes

Winter Citrus Salad

Winter is often seen as a time for warm, hearty dishes and yet it is prime time for lots of citrus fruit, Meyer lemons and blood oranges in particular. Inspired by the classic orange and red onion salad of Spain and the North African tradition of preserved lemons, this salad is a nod to both. Meyer lemons, which are so delicately skinned, lend themselves marvelously to this dish. From A Menu For All Seasons—Winter (reprinted with permission from M27 Editions)

Makes 8 servings

4 oranges, peeled and thinly sliced

4 blood oranges, peeled and thinly sliced

1 Meyer lemon, very thinly sliced with the skin on

1 ⁄4 cup olive oil

Juice of 1 ⁄ 2 lemon

1 teaspoon orange flower water

1 pinch cumin

1 pinch sumac

1 pinch cinnamon

Coarse sea salt

Black pepper

2 tablespoons chives, finely chopped

2 tablespoons cilantro leaves, left whole

MIKE VERBOIS

Place sliced oranges, blood oranges and Meyer lemons on a platter and arrange them in an appealing pattern.

In a separate bowl mix together all the remaining ingredients except for the cilantro and chives. Whisk the mixture together well to form an emulsion. Pour the vinaigrette ov er the oranges and then dot with the chives and cilantro.

Parchment-Baked Halibut with Meyer Lemons and Shallots

Makes 8 servings

4 Meyer lemons, thinly sliced Olive oil

Coarse sea salt

8–10 large shallots, peeled and thinly sliced

4–5 sprigs lemon thyme

2 1 ⁄ 2 pounds local halibut, cut into eight equal parts

Salt and pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 300°.

Place lemons on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with coarse sea salt. Bake for 20 minutes.

Pour a little olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pan placed over medium heat. Add in the shallot slices and lemon thyme and cook until soft and translucent, about 5–8 minutes.

Place 1 8 of the shallots on a separate 12- by 10-inch piece of parchment paper. Place one of the halibut slices on top of the shallots, season with salt and pepper and then cover the surface of the fish with some of the baked lemon slices. Drizzle with a little more olive oil. Fold the parchment over the fish and seal the parchment. Repeat with the remaining pieces. Place the eight packages on a baking sheet.

Bake the fish for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven, taking care when you open the parchment as this will release some steam. Serve with the juices from the parchment package.

This is excellent served with sautéed bok choy, spinach or steamed green beans.

Lemon Tart

From the new edition of A Menu For All Seasons—Spring due out in January 2012 (reprinted with permission from M27 Editions).

Makes 8–10 servings

FOR THE DOUGH

This makes enough to line a 10-inch round tart pan (with a little left over) or to make 2 rectangular tarts

7 ounces flour (11 ⁄ 3 cups)

4 ounces almond meal ( 3 ⁄4 cup)

5 ounces unsalted butter (1 stick plus 2 tablespoons

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 egg

1 tablespoon confectioner’s sugar

1 tablespoon pine nuts

Zest of 1 lemon

Pinch of coarse sea salt

Preheat oven to 400°.

Place all ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until just combined. Remove dough from the bowl and place on a large piece of plastic wrap and flatten out a little—the dough will be slightly sticky. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Lightly flour a clean work surface. Remove the dough from the fridge and place in the center of the work surface. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, gently roll out the dough so that it is 1 4 inch thick. Carefully transfer the dough to a pre-buttered tart pan. If it falls apart, just piece it back together in the pan. The pan can be any shape you like as long as the tart pan has a removable bottom. Trim the edges of the dough with a sharp knife and then prick the dough with the tines of a fork. Cover the dough with some parchment paper and place pie weights or dried beans on top to prevent the dough from rising whilst baking. Bake the tart in the oven for 10 minutes, remove the parchment and weights and bake for 5 minutes more. Remove from the oven and let cool.

FOR THE FILLING

Grated zest and juice of 4 lemons

4 whole eggs, beaten together in a small bowl

3 egg yolks, beaten together in a small bowl

6 ounces sugar ( 3 ⁄4 cup plus 1 tablespoon)

3 ounces butter, melted ( 3 ⁄4 stick)

Place the lemon juice and zest in a large bowl. Place the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and heat up the lemon juice until warm to the touch.

Whisk in the whole eggs and then the egg yolks, being careful not to let the mixture boil as this will cause the eggs to curdle. Add in the sugar and melted butter, stirring until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. This will take a little time, so be patient and do not turn the heat up. If you use a thermometer, the finished temperature for the curd should be 165°. Pour the lemon mixture into the partially baked tart and bake a further 7–8 minutes or until the tart dough is golden brown. The lemon curd should not move if you jiggle the pan. Let the tart cool to room temperature before serving.

www.cecsb.org/carrot-mob

Edible Profile Erika Heinemann

by Krista Harris

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL GARDNER

From growing up in Santa Barbara to attending culinary school in San Francisco, training under Thomas Keller of French Laundry fame and now returning to Santa Barbara, Erika Heinemann brings her savvy way with wine and food back home.

Sometimes it’s necessary to interview someone at Renaud’s Patisserie with a cup of cappuccino and an almond croissant. This was one of those times. I was meeting Erika Heinemann, a new chef in town. Or rather a returning chef, and I knew we would have a lot to talk about. And as I listened to her story amidst the pleasant clatter of the tiny shop, I felt that she and I were very much at home.

Like many raised in Santa Barbara, she left home to get a taste of the outside world—in her case the Bay Area, to go to college. But after a degree in broadcast journalism and some travel in Europe, she realized that if she won the lottery the first thing she’d want to do would be to go to culinary school. So, rather than wait for that, she decided quite sensibly to test the waters by working at the Montecito Café. And then she headed off to the San Francisco Culinary Institute.

“I loved being a student,” Erika says. “I sat in the front row, asked tons of questions and volunteered for anything.” And after she graduated, she was determined to get one of the coveted spots at Thomas Keller’s famous restaurant, French Laundry in Napa Valley. She succeeded, and thrived under Keller’s tutelage.

Erika realized that pairing wine and food was a passion of hers, and she took an executive chef position at Duckhorn Winery and later started her own business, Savvy Wine Food, so that she could offer her services to other wineries.

Then the lure of Santa Barbara and her extended family here drew her back. Also, she felt the time was right to do what she had been doing in Napa here in Santa Barbara. The food was here, the wine was here, but no one was really providing what she could. In addition to her incredible skill as a chef for private parties or winemaker dinners, Erika acts as a consultant to wineries— developing wine and food pairings, menu consultation and prepared food.

Erika recently created a sophisticated seven-course meal for a private party that was arranged by Merryl Brown Events. The menu reads like an epicurean fantasy with dishes like Foie Gras Tochon, Fresh Fig and Lemon-Thyme Gastrique, Toasted Brioche; Wild Alaskan Sockeye Salmon in Fig Leaves with Nasturtium Butter; Five-Spice Braised Beef Short Rib with Napa CabbageOrzo Stew, Roquefort Trifle with French Butter Pear Relish; Cardamom Spice Cake with Orange Blossom Cream and Fleur de Sel Caramels, served with exquisite chocolates from Sweet Nuit.

Erika looks at Santa Barbara these days with a renewed sense of inspiration and enthusiasm. “I’m rediscovering Santa Barbara,” Erika says. “The farmers markets are better than ever. Even in Napa, which has a great farmers market, it isn’t year-round.”

This winter we’ll probably find her at the farmers market picking out all the wonderful root vegetables and winter greens. This time of year she favors braising techniques with a variety of flavors and spices that can offer lots of pairing opportunities with wine. I think this is where Erika brings something unique to the table. As a chef who has worked extensively with wineries, Erika is as much about wine as she is about food. And in Santa Barbara, that is a very winning combination.

Find out more about Erika at savvywinefood.com

Krista

Harris is the editor and publisher of Edible Santa Barbara

Above from left: Rock Shrimp Lollipops with Spicy Almond Sauce; Foie Gras Tochon, Fresh Fig and Lemon-Thyme Syrup, Toasted Brioche; Wild Alaskan Sockeye Salmon in Fig Leaves with Nasturtium Butter; Roquefort Trifle with French Butter Pear Relish; Cardamom Spice Cake with Orange Blossom Cream.

Erika Heinemann at work.

Nothing Like Chocolate A FILM BY Kum-Kum Bhavnani

by Jennifer LeMay

Where does chocolate come from? The simple answer is that it comes from the fruit of an improbable plant (the cacao tree, Theobroma cacao) that bears

When filmmaker Kum-Kum Bhavnani learned that children harvest much of the world’s cocoa (as the fruit of the cacao is confusingly known), and that some are trafficked to and

enslaved in West Africa, she decided her next film would focus on the chocolate industry and bring attention to their plight.* Her approach would be to highlight examples of ethical and sustainable chocolate making and show how these practices are so different from—and superior to—those of the mainstream chocolate industry.

“I wanted to make a film that is not only about suffering, but about people who are doing things right,” explained Bhavnani, who is also a professor of sociology at UC Santa Barbara. In this way, her film Nothing Like Chocolate follows in the same vein as her award-winning earlier film The Shape of Water, which depicts intimate stories of women working for social justice around the world, and how some of them are making tremendous strides.

In her search for exemplary chocolate-making operations, she hit filmmaker pay dirt when she came across the Grenada Chocolate Factory and its eccentric founder, who would become the focus of the film. Nestled in lush cocoa groves in Grenada’s pristine rainforest, the factory produces high-quality organic dark chocolate from its own world-famous cocoa beans. Anarchist chocolate maker Mott Green, who founded the company in 1999, is magnetic on camera as he passionately describes the bean-to-bar process that yields some of the world’s

* A 2009 Tulane University study estimated that in the previous year, 819,921 children in the Ivory Coast and 997,357 children in Ghana worked on cocoa-related activities, and that only 5%–10% received pay for their labor. It is difficult to track the actual number of enslaved children in West Africa, as many work on their families’ land. Tulane University, under contract with the U.S. Department of Labor to oversee public and private efforts to eliminate the worst forms of child labor in the cocoa sector in the Ivory Coast and Ghana, is working with governments and industry to monitor and promote measures to improve the situation.

Filmmaker Kum-Kum Bhavnani.

finest chocolate. He outlines the many ways the company is “doing things right,” which include paying high wages to the farmers and factory workers—all of whom are part of a cooperative established by the company—and by growing and processing the cocoa in an environmentally sustainable manner.

Growing and Processing Cocoa at the Grenada Chocolate Factory

Cacao beans are white and pulpy, and sit snugly inside brightly colored pods. Grenada Chocolate Factory beans are certified organic (and as such, fetch a higher price), fermented and dried naturally in the sun and processed in a small factory that is solar-powered and equipped with updated, refurbished antique machinery built specifically for producing the highest quality chocolate. It’s not surprising that the attention and care that goes into this artisan chocolate making correlates with taking care of the workers and the land that have made it possible.

Nothing Like Chocolate gives us a glimpse of the fascinating chocolate-making process that is a mystery to so many chocolate lovers, and shows how cocoa farmers involved in most industrial chocolate manufacturing operations are unfamiliar with the finished products made from their beans. Mott explains in the film that his company is

The impetus and principle of his cooperative company is to change the cocoachocolate system that typically keeps the cocoa production separate from the chocolate making, and establish a system in which cocoa farmers are empowered and reap their share of the benefits. It’s a system that also benefits the consumer, as this kind of chocolate production invariably results in a better product. At the Grenada Chocolate Factory, for instance, onsite fermentation and cocoa butter production yield an extra rich and chocolaty flavor.

The Grenada Chocolate Factory has 150 acres of organic cocoa farms in its cooperative and harvests the trinitario bean, a flavorful variety that accounts for only 5%–10% of the world’s cocoa. Grenadian trinitario cocoa derives its distinct flavors from a combination of genetics, climate and soil. Last year, the company brought in 20 tons of cocoa beans and produced 250,000 chocolate bars. Everything is done at the factory, including packaging. One-third of the bars are sold in Grenada, and the remainder are exported, mainly to Europe and also to the United States. Consumers get to enjoy the company’s excellent products, including a bar called “Nib-A-Licious” that contains cocoa nibs (tiny pieces of roasted cocoa), while knowing where and how the cocoa was grown and processed. Industrial

Interview with Mott Green at the Grenada Chocolate Company.

ASHOKE GHOSH

SKYE

BORGMAN

chocolate operations usually mix cocoa beans from many places, making it impossible to know their origins.

One of the newest farmers about to join the cooperative, Nelice Stewart, also grows other crops, including citrus, peas, nutmeg and bananas. Like Mott, she is passionate about working the land and says she “loves it all” when it comes to growing food. Her unique perspective as a woman farmer in Grenada adds yet another dimension to the film. She was delighted to learn that another benefit of joining the cooperative is that the company comes to each farm to collect the beans and then takes them to the factory, where they are weighed, meticulously documented, fermented and then dried in large drawers that open to the sunshine for 10 days before being roasted. The people who work at the chocolate factory are as dedicated as the farmers, and look like they’re having fun, too—in the film, singing and celebration seem to be an integral part of the factory’s chocolate-making operation.

Cacao: From Mystical and Sacred Plant to Industrial Product

Vandana Shiva, renowned activist and physicist, explains in Nothing Like Chocolate, “Cocoa is a very sacred plant for traditional cultures. In Mexico the original bartering was through the cocoa pod—it was currency.” Historically, the beans were consumed in a strong, bitter beverage and were praised as a “food of the gods.” She stresses that the problem of child slave labor in the cocoa industry is not to be blamed on the local areas where it is happening, but on the global monopolies and control by corporations that have engendered the practice. “As with any product—whether it be clothing, coffee or chocolate—giant businesses that are dictating terms, in order to maximize [profit] margins, create the conditions for slavery.”

Above left to right: Making chocolate from cacao beans; Nelice Stewart with her daughter; one of the cocoa pods cut open. Below: Grenada landscape.

ASHOKE GHOSH

Shiva contends that decentralized, artisanal production of many kinds of products is vital, as it generates dignified work, increases skill sets and deters adulteration of products such as industrial chocolate.

Shiva finds it a tragedy that “the honest, ethical producer is burdened with having to say ‘I’ve done it right’—that unfair trade is the rule and fair trade the exception.” Cocoa can only be grown in the equatorial regions, and she points out that farmers must be able to grow crops to feed their communities in addition to growing cocoa, in order to be sustainable. “Localization does not mean that people should only live on what they can produce locally, but it does mean that local economies must not be destroyed in order to supply commodities more cheaply someplace else.” She says that such a system is, in the long run, like a house without a foundation.

Moving away from inexpensive, exploitative, inferior cocoa products to high-quality, ethically and sustainably produced chocolate may seem daunting. Michael Pollan, bestselling author of The Omnivore’s Dilemma, points out in the film that successful boycotts in protest of working conditions have a history in the United States and elsewhere. For instance, people in England in the 1800s boycotted sugar to protest slavery. There is a movement afoot, says Pollan, of bringing values to our decisions about what to eat. He calls it “voting with your fork.” In his opinion, the organic industry should have included labor conditions in its certification standards.

While industry has been successful in driving down the price of food—including chocolate—it has often done so at the expense of product quality and social and environmental justice. Pollan explains that the pressure to cut costs at every step has led to replacing expensive ingredients, such as cocoa butter, with less expensive ones like palm or corn oil. He notes that imitation products are rarely labeled as such, and wonders when chocolate will no longer be chocolate. He adds that cheap food may not really be so cheap, when one factors in corn and soy subsidies, the costs to the environment, and increased health care expenses.

Nothing Like Chocolate sheds light on the many ways that humans have connected to the cacao plant, and to the chocolate that comes from it. Neurobiologist David Presti says that cocoa has a rich history of being revered for thousands of years and creates an elusive kind of euphoria when ingested, adding that he sees “great potential for the development of a true alchemical, artisan industry that would be beneficial for everyone involved.”

Thanks to Nothing Like Chocolate, more people will know where their chocolate comes from, and appreciate the many benefits of ethical and sustainable production.

Visit the film website at NothingLikeChocolate.com

Nothing Like Chocolate will be screened in Santa Barbara in January or February 2012. Check the film website for more information.

Jennifer LeMay is a designer and artist who appreciates great local food. Her communication design firm, J. LeMay Studios, provides outreach strategy and design services. Visit her website at jlemay.com.

Resources

Chocolate Maya

A wide collection of organic and fair trade chocolate from reliable sources (including Grenada Chocolate Factory bars) as well as handmade, organic chocolate truffles and confections.

15 W. Gutierrez St. Santa Barbara chocolatemaya.com

Chocolate Opulence

Handmade chocolates using traditional European methods and high quality, natural ingredients.

819 State St. (Paseo Nuevo), Santa Barbara chocolateopulence.com

Chocolats du CaliBressan

Handmade, artisan, French chocolates made locally and sourcing fair trade chocolate.

4193 Carpinteria Ave., Suite 4, Carpinteria 1114 State St., #25 (La Arcada), Santa Barbara chococalibressan.com

Jessica Foster Confections

Local, handmade, gourmet chocolates from ethical and sustainable sources. jessicafosterconfections.com

L’Artisan du Chocolat

Freshly made chocolate confections from Los Angeles, Rainforest Alliance, fair trade certified. artisanduchocolat.com

Patchi

Handmade, artisanal chocolate supporting fair trade. patchi.us

Santa Barbara Chocolate Company

Specializing in fair trade organic chocolate truffles, wholesale and bulk chocolate. santabarbarachocolate.com

Sweet Earth Chocolates

Specializing in fair trade organic chocolates. sweetearthchocolates.com

Sweet Nuit

Handcrafted, organic, vegan, raw, molded chocolates from Santa Monica, using ethical and sustainable sources. sweetnuit.com

Twenty-Four Blackbirds

Locally produced bean to bar chocolate using ethical and sustainable sources. 24blackbirdschocolate.com

DECEMBER

WINTER EDIBLE EVENTS

DECEMBER

Christmas Day

JANUARY 2012

SATURDAY JANUARY 21

Carrot Mob

Location to be announced

A reverse boycott by a group of people who collectively drive up sales at a preselected business, while the business agrees to make sustainable improvements to its operations. Location and time will be revealed shortly before the event. cecsb.org/carrot-mob

THURSDAY DECEMBER 29

Wandering Dog Wine Bar

Blind Tasting Thursday

1539C Mission Dr., Solvang

The theme is sparkling wines. Challenge your palate and learn about wine at the same time. Come by anytime between 4–7pm. Wine Society $10, general public $15, no reservations required. 805 6869126; wanderingdogwinebar.com

SATURDAY JANUARY 7

Local Artists Market

3761 State St., Santa Barbara

Support local artists at the Whole Foods Market outdoor arts and crafts show noon–5pm. 805 837-6959; wholefoodsmarket.com

DECEMBER

Hanukkah Begins

FRIDAY JANUARY 13

Riverbench & Bell Street Farm Dinner

Bell Street Farm and Riverbench Winery are teaming up to bring you a delightful epicurean experience. $100 per person, includes wine. Contact amber@riverbench.com or call 805 937-8340 to reserve your spot. Limit 26 guests.

JANUARY 22 THROUGH JANUARY 28

Santa Ynez Valley Restaurant Week

Restaurants throughout the Santa Ynez Valley are offering special three-course tasting menus for the price of $20.12 (excluding tax, tip & beverages).

Restaurants include: Avant Tapas & Wine, Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café, Root 246, Dos Carlitos and many others. Visit visitthesantaynezvalley.com for details and a list of participants.

THURSDAY DECEMBER 22

Wandering Dog Wine Bar

Blind Tasting Thursday

1539C Mission Dr., Solvang

The theme is Rhone varietals. Challenge your palate and learn about wine at the same time. Come by anytime between 4–7pm. Wine Society $10, general public $15, no reservations required. 805 6869126; wanderingdogwinebar.com

THURSDAY DECEMBER 31

Black & Blue Ball at Avant

35 Industrial Way, Buellton

Five course, wine paired dinner, games, prizes, DJ, dancing, champagne toast at midnight. Black tie/blue jeans attire, must be 21. 7:30pm to midnight, dinner begins at 8pm. Limited seating. Tickets in advance only, $125. Call 805 6864742 to purchase tickets. avantwines.com

SATURDAY JANUARY 21

Oreana Winery Hangover Hat Day Extravaganza

205 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara; 6pm Live music in a festive, winter-like setting with ice sculptures, chillin’ wintry sounds and warm hot cider. Admission is free if you wear a hat. 805 962-5857; oreanawinery.com

JANUARY 26 THROUGH FEBRUARY 5

Santa Barbara International Film Festival

Visit sbiff.org for a complete listing of screenings and special events.

THURSDAY FEBRUARY 2

Santa Barbara vs. Italy

FEBRUARY 14

Valentine’s Day

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 18

FEBRUARY MARCH

“Blind” Wine Dinner

Los Olivos Café and Wine Merchant

The Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café will put the Golden Boot to the test in a five-course wine dinner in their Blind Wine Dinner series. Reservations are required. $89 per person. Contact Jon at 805 688-7265 x 203 or email jon@ buysantabarbarawine.com

WEDNESDAY FEBRUARY 22

An Evening with Tom Colicchio

UCSB Campbell Hall, 8pm

Five-time James Beard Award winner for Outstanding Chef Tom Colicchio is one of the culinary world’s most celebrated figures and lead judge on Bravo’s Emmynominated show “Top Chef.” Tickets $35–$50, UCSB students $20. 805 8933535; artsandlectures.sa.ucsb.edu

THURSDAY FEBRUARY 23

Riverbench & Bell Street Farm Dinner

Bell Street Farm and Riverbench Winery are teaming up to bring you a delightful epicurean experience. $100 per person, includes wine. Contact amber@ riverbench.com or call 805 937-8340 to reserve your spot. Limit 26 guests.

MARCH 10–11

Edible Institute

Mar Monte Hotel, Santa Barbara Edible Communities presents Edible Institute—a weekend of talks, presentations, workshops and local food & wine tastings by some of the local food movement’s most influential thinkers, writers and producers. ediblecommunities.com

For the Love of Archery and Chocolate

Come show off your archery skills at Riverbench Winery. $15 per person includes a one-hour lesson and tasting. And then stay for an afternoon chocolate treat with Chocolats du CaliBressan who will be on site showcasing their delicious local artisan chocolates. Contact info@ riverbench.com or call 805 937-8340 to reserve your spot. Limit 26 guests.

MARCH 2–3

12th Annual World of Pinot Noir

The Cliffs Resort in Shell Beach Bringing extraordinary Pinot Noir producers from around the globe together with Pinot Noir enthusiasts for a weekend celebration and education. To purchase tickets for the tastings, seminars and dinners, go to worldofpinotnoir.com.

MARCH 16–18

Taste of Solvang

Since 1993 Solvang has celebrated its rich culinary and cultural heritage with the Taste of Solvang Food & Wine Festival featuring local desserts, delicacies, wines and live entertainment. Advance ticket purchases are highly recommended and can be made online at SolvangUSA.com or call 800 7199106 to purchase by phone.

edible Source Guide

The Edible Source Guide is a compact listing of all of our advertisers with a description of what they do and the details of their businesses. Please visit these advertisers to pick up your free copy of Edible Santa Barbara and let them know how much you appreciate their support of Edible Santa Barbara.

BREWERIES AND DISTILLERIES

Telegraph Brewing Company

Handcrafting unique American ales that embrace the heritage of California’s early brewing pioneers and use as many locally grown ingredients as possible. Visit the tasting room Thursday 4–6pm, Friday 4–8pm, Saturday 2–6pm. Telegraph beer is available at many restaurants and grocery stores in Santa Barbara County and throughout California. telegraphbrewing.com

St-Germain Liqueur

St-Germain is the first liqueur in the world created in the artisanal French manner from freshly handpicked elderflower blossoms. To find out more, visit their website at stgermain.fr

CATERERS AND CHEFS

New West Catering

Uniting the artistry of fine restaurant cuisine with the versatility of full-service catering, New West Catering is your unparalleled choice for special events in the Santa Barbara County wine country and beyond. 805 688-0991; newwestcatering.com

COMMERCIAL KITCHEN SPACE

Goodland Kitchen

Goodland Kitchen, located in downtown Goleta, rents the use of its licensed and insured facility on an hourly basis to local food producers and re-packagers. It is also available as a teaching venue and for special event food processing. 805 845-4300; goodlandkitchen.com

FARMERS MARKETS

Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market

Eight markets, six days a week. See schedule on page 23. 805 962-5354; sbfarmersmarket.org

FARMS AND RANCHES

Rancho San Julian Beef

Rancho San Julian Beef produces high quality beef from cattle raised humanely and healthfully on an agriculturally sustainable ranch in Santa Barbara County. Available at the following farmers markets: Saturday in Santa Barbara 8:30am–12:30pm, Tuesday in Santa Barbara 3–6:30pm and Friday in Montecito 8–11:30am as well as on their website rsjbeef.com

Shepherd Farms

Organic since 1973, Shepherd Farms brings produce from the farm directly to your plate. Join the CSA program, or visit them at the farmers market or at the farm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday 1–5pm and Saturday 11am–3pm. 6701 Casitas Pass Rd., Carpinteria; shepherdfarmscsa.com

FOOD PRODUCTS

Full of Life Flatbread All Natural Pizza

Each of their frozen line of artisan flatbread pizzas is handmade by their bakers in small batches. Almost all of their ingredients are sourced local from growers and artisans, which reduces food-miles, helps the environment and ensures high quality. Available at grocery and natural food stores throughout the country. fulloflifefoods.com

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FOOD PRODUCTS (CONTINUED)

IxCacao

IxCacao makes intensely rich, premium chocolate brownies in a variety of flavors, including Chocolate, Mayan Cacao, Caribbean, Sweet Indian Chai, Salted Caramel and California Orange. They are available at area gourmet food markets and online at ixcacaobrownies.com

Jessica Foster Confections

Jessica Foster Confections creates handmade gourmet chocolate truffles and confections using the finest, freshest ingredients. The truffles are hand rolled and dipped, making each one a delicious work of art, and available in gift boxes, as personalized favors for weddings and special events and for corporate gifts. Available at local gourmet markets and online at jessicafosterconfections.com

Joëlle Olive Oil

Joëlle Olive Oil offers a full line of fresh, cold-pressed, extra-virgin olive oil estate grown in California. Award winning in international competitions, all of their oils are unfiltered, extra-virgin and date-stamped for year of production. joelleoil.com

North Valley Farms Chévre

This small family farm utilizes sustainable farming methods and produces award-winning handcrafted fresh and aged goat cheeses using only the milk produced by their pastured goat herd. Order online at northvalleyfarms.com

Simply Pies

Simply Pies specializes in delicious organic pies, potpies, quiches and cheesecakes that are handcrafted with fresh, local organic ingredients. Vegan, gluten free and sugar free options. Open Tuesday–Saturday 7am–5:30pm; Saturday 10am–5:30pm. 5392 Hollister Ave., Santa Barbara. 805 8452200; Email: orders@simplypiessb.com; simplypiessb.com

GROCERY STORES & PRODUCE DELIVERY

Isla Vista Food Co-op

A community-owned food co-op open to the public and highly regarded for its sustainable business practices and high-quality foods. Highlighting tri-county local, organic, fair-trade, farmer-owned, vegan, vegetarian, kosher, raw, gluten-free and all-around sustainable ways of being. Open daily 8am–10pm. 6575 Seville Rd., Isla Vista. 805 968-1401; islavistafood.coop

Lassen’s Natural Foods & Vitamins

Lassen’s has been providing the finest natural foods and supplements for 40 years and now has nine stores in California. In Goleta at 5154 Hollister and in Santa Maria at 1790 S. Broadway. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm; lassens.com

New Frontiers Natural Marketplace

New Frontiers Natural Marketplace is a full service natural foods grocery store and deli. Located in Solvang at 1984 Old Mission Dr. (corner of Alamo Pintado and Mission Dr.) Call 805 693-1746 for hours and additional information. They are also located in San Luis Obispo at 1531 Froom Ranch Way (on Los Osos Valley Rd. near Home Depot).

Plow to Porch Organics

Local organic/pesticide free/chemical free and all natural produce delivery service and organic market. The market carries a wide array of seasonal and local produce, meat and food products and is located at 3204 State St., Santa Barbara. Open Monday–Friday 10am–7pm. 805 895-7171; plowtoporch.com

Whole Foods Market

Founded in 1980 in Austin, Texas, Whole Foods Market, a leader in the natural and organic foods industry and America’s first national certified organic grocer, was named “America’s Healthiest Grocery Store” in 2008 by Health magazine. 3761 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 837-6959; wholefoodsmarket.com

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

American Riviera Bank

Offering a local and sustainable approach to banking. The founders of American Riviera Bank are a carefully selected group of successful, prominent, experienced and influential community and business leaders who understand the unique needs of the Santa Barbara community. Lobby hours Monday–Thursday 8am–5pm, Friday 8am–6pm. 1033 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara. 805 965-5942. americanrivierabank.com

Rabobank

Rabobank is a valued financial partner for thousands of individuals, businesses, farmers and ranchers, food and agribusiness companies and other select institutions in many California communities, meeting the financial needs of local families, businesses and organizations with great banking products and personalized service. rabobankamerica.com

Women’s Economic Ventures

Women’s Economic Ventures (WEV) provides training, consulting, coaching and loans to small businesses in Santa Barbara County as well as Ventura and Kern Counties. WEV helps small businesses succeed by providing a nationally recognized training program, access to start-up and growth capital and ongoing assistance. wevonline.org

RESTAURANTS

See our Edible Dining Guide on page 44.

SCHOOLS

Antioch University Santa Barbara

Antioch University Santa Barbara is dedicated to academic excellence and provides students with an intimate campus environment, offering degrees in psychology, liberal studies and organizational management. 602 Anacapa St.; 805 962-8179; antiochsb.edu

SPECIALTY RETAILERS & PRODUCTS

Chocolate Maya

Chocolate Maya scours the world for pure, luscious chocolates and offers incredible savory bars, truffles, bonbons and gift baskets as well as a wide choice of organic and fair trade chocolate products. Monday–Friday 11am–6pm, Saturday 10am–4pm. 15 W. Gutierrez St., Santa Barbara. 805 965-5956; chocolatemaya.com

C’est Cheese

C’est Cheese is your local source for the finest cheeses and artisanal foods. In addition to cheese, they offer a host of gourmet foods such as salamis, fine cured hams, olive oils and vinegars, wines, handmade chocolates, catering services, gift baskets and picnic coolers. Monday–Friday 10am–6pm. Saturday 8am–6pm. Closed Sundays. 825 Santa Barbara St., Santa Barbara. 805 965-0318; cestcheese.com

Global Gardens

Global Gardens uses only the freshest of organic or natural, pesticide-free ingredients to make their exclusive line of extra virgin olive oils, fruit vinegars, appetizer spreads, glazes, savory snacks and confections. Open daily 11am–5pm. 2477 Alamo Pintado Ave., Los Olivos. 805 693-1600; oliverevolution.com

Grapeseed Company

The Grapeseed Company creates eco-friendly spa and skin-care handcrafted from a byproduct of wine plus antioxidant rich local and organic botanicals. TuesdaySaturday 10:30am–5:30pm; Sunday noon–5pm. 201 W. Carrillo St., Santa Barbara 805 456-3655; thegrapeseedcompany.com

Herban Essentials

Herban Essentials uses the highest-quality, 100% pure, therapeutic-grade, steam-distilled or cold-pressed essential oils to make their line of essential oil towelettes, available in Orange, Lemon, Lavender, Peppermint, Eucalyptus, Pet and Yoga. herbanessentials.com

Here’s the Scoop

Here’s the Scoop offers the finest gelato and sorbet made fresh daily from local farms and farmers market fruit. They specialize in seasonal flavors as well as traditional Italian flavors. 1187 Coast Village Rd., Montecito. 805 969-7020; heresthescoop@cox.net

WINERIES AND WINE RETAILERS

Alma Rosa

With certified organic vineyards in the Sta. Rita Hills, Alma Rosa focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir-Vin Gris. All wines are food friendly with the high acid and extraordinary balance for which Richard Sanford’s wines have been known since 1976. Open 11am–4:30pm daily. 7250 Santa Rosa Rd., Buellton. 805 688-9090; almarosawinery.com

Avant Tapas and Wine

Avant Tapas and Wine is the tasting room for over 30 vintners producing their wine at the Terravant Wine Company’s state-of-the-art production facility, in Santa Barbara County. Open for tasting Monday, Thursday and Sunday 11am–8pm, Friday–Saturday 11am–10pm. 35 Industrial Way, Buellton. 805 686-9400; avantwines.com

BiN 2860 International Wine Shop

With both local and international wines available, BiN 2860 at Fess Parker Wine Country Inn & Spa has one of the best wine selections in the Santa Ynez Valley. 2860 Grand Ave., Los Olivos. 800 446-2455, 805 688-7788; bin2860.com

Buttonwood Farm Winery

In 1968 Betty Williams came to Buttonwood, creating a life that found expression through a connection with the land. The vineyard now has 33,000 vines with a mix of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Marsanne, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Visit the tasting room at 1500 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang. Open 11am–5pm daily. 805 688-3032; buttonwoodwinery.com

Foxen Winery & Vineyard

Bill Wathen and Dick Doré have been making wine together since 1985, when they founded Foxen Winery & Vineyard at the historic Rancho Tinaquaic in northern Santa Barbara County. Visit the two tasting rooms at 7200 and 7600 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria. Open daily 11am–4pm. 805 937-4251; foxenvineyard.com

Kenneth Volk Vineyards

Proprietor Ken Volk has been making Santa Barbara and Central Coast wines for more than a quarter century. He is known for crafting world-class wines, particularly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Their tasting room is open daily 10:30am–4:30pm. 5230 Tepusquet Rd., Santa Maria. 805 938-7896; volkwines.com

Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Cafe

The Wine Merchant specializes in premium California wines with a focus on highlighting the Central Coast. They feature Bernat Wines which are estate grown and made by owner Sam Marmorstein. In addition they carry a line of signature gourmet products. Open daily 11:30am–8:30pm. 2879 Grand Ave., Los Olivos. 805 688-7265; losolivoscafe.com

Oreana Winery & Marketplace

Oreana Winery & Marketplace is a tasting room, wine shop, gourmet gift market and fully-functional winery housed in a historic tire shop. From their small batches

of Pinot Noir to their sizable red table wine, Oreana has a wine for everyone. Open daily 11am–5pm. 205 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara. 805 962-5857; oreanawinery.com

Qupé

Qupé is dedicated to producing handcrafted Rhône varietals and Chardonnay from California’s Central Coast. They employ traditional winemaking techniques to make wines that are true to type and speak of their vineyard sources. Their tasting room is open daily 11am–5pm. 2963 Grand Ave., Suite B, Los Olivos. 805 686-4200; qupe.com

Riverbench Vineyard & Winery

Since 1973 Riverbench has produced some of Santa Barbara County’s finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. With their initial harvest in 2006, they have now begun producing their own wines with winemaker Chuck Ortman. Tasting room is open 10am–4pm daily. 6020 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria. 805 937-8340; riverbench.com

Roblar Winery and Vineyards

The spirit of easygoing hospitality is central to Roblar’s philosophy. Come by for a taste of their current releases, browse the gift shop and deli, or stay for lunch. Open for tasting Saturday–Sunday 10am–5pm, Monday–Friday 11am–4pm. 3010 Roblar Ave., Santa Ynez. 805 686-2603; roblarwinery.com

Tessa Marie Wines

Sangiovese is the cornerstone of winemaker Tessa Marie’s efforts, but she has recently expanded her portfolio to include several new varieties in her all Italian lineup. The tasting room is open Thursday–Monday 11:30am–5pm and is located at 2901 Grand Ave. Suite C, Los Olivos. 805 688-6081; www.tessamariewines.com

Valley Vino Wine Bar & Merchant

Newly opened in Solvang, this wine bar features outstanding wines by local winemakers and beer on tap. 1557 Mission Dr., Solvang; valleyvinowinebar.com

Wandering Dog

Wandering Dog Wine Bar offers the most interesting and delicious wines from artisan producers along the Central Coast, as well as from around the world. Sample one of their tasting flights or create your own from the nearly 50 wines available by the glass every day. Monday–Thursday 1pm–8ish, Friday–Saturday 11am–10ish; Sunday 11am–8ish. 1539 C Mission Dr., Solvang. 805 686-9126; wanderingdogwinebar.com

The Winehound

The award-winning Winehound features the world’s best wines—from the everyday to a luxury cuvée—all top dogs, no mutts. Open 11am–7pm Monday through Saturday, noon–6pm Sunday. 1221 Chapala St., Santa Barbara. 805 845-5247; thewinehound.com

Wine Cask Tasting Room

Wine Cask partner Doug Margerum has brought his wines to downtown Santa Barbara, including his Margerum Wine Company wines, Happy Canyon Vineyards wines and Cimarone/Three Creek Vineyards and CENT 'ANNI, as well as a selection of imported wines. Wine tasting is available from noon to 6pm every day. 813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara; 805 966-9463; MargerumWineCompany.com

Zaca Mesa Winery & Vineyards

Zaca Mesa is a Santa Ynez Valley estate winery dedicated to Rhone varieties. Since 1972, they have handcrafted wines from grapes grown in their vineyards to express their distinct character and genuine quality. Open daily 10am–4pm. 6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos. 805 688-9339 ext. 308; zacamesa.com

THE LAST BITE by Nancy Oster

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIN FEINBLATT

Oscar Carmona

Inside Oscar Carmona’s greenhouses, healthy young plants reach for the sky, warmed by sunlight, storing sun energy in their cells and absorbing nutrients from the soil. As a farmer, Oscar orchestrates this harmony of cosmic and earthly forces by recycling vegetation and coffee grounds into compost piles vibrant with microbial life and brewing living compost into tea to nourish the leaves and roots of his seedlings.

Oscar began organic farming here in Santa Barbara after graduation from UCSB in 1983. Three years later, he started a gardening therapy program for adults with developmental disabilities at the Alpha Resource Center of Santa Barbara. In 1991 he became director of gardening programs for the Community Environmental Council (CEC), where he created innovative gardening programs for local youth and

managed CEC’s Urban Farm and the City of Santa Barbara’s community gardens.

In 2004 he left CEC to develop the Healing Grounds Horticultural Therapy Program for adults with mental illness. Oscar says, “Farming allows you to feel a sense of place and balance.” He adds, “When you create and put microorganisms back into the soil, you’re reinvesting in the very source of life that will sustain you.”

The training program ended with County budget cuts, but Oscar continues to connect people in the community through classes, workshops and lectures on composting and gardening. He sells his organic vegetable and herb seedlings at local nurseries and at the Saturday and Sunday farmers markets.

Healing Grounds Nursery

Edible Santa Barbara Winter 2011

SANTA BARBARA

edible institute 2012

March 10 & 11

Santa Barbara, California

Pure Fresh Fabulous

Choose Antioch

RA

SANTABARBA RA edible ® winter

FOOD FOR THOUGHT D

Stay Connected

Notables edible

Succulent

Café & Trading Company

Twenty-Four Blackbirds

IxCacao

Bell Street Farm

vertical TASTING

Blistered Almonds

Original with Sea Salt

Rosemary

Cajun

Cinnalmond

Notable edible Winner Larry Nobles

Cognac De Fleur

Season in

seasonal Recipes

Radicchio

Radicchio Ravioli

Grilled Radicchio

Shallots

Caramelized Shallots

edible

Books Winter Reading Guide

Holiday Dinners with Bradley Ogden (Running Press)

Edible Brooklyn: The Cookbook

Homegrown & Handmade: A

Guide to More Self-Reliant Living

The Cheesemonger’s Kitchen: Celebrating Cheese in 90 Recipes

Interviewed by Shannon Essa Marc Grandle

AN INTERVIEW WITH Tom Colicchio

EDIBLE GARDEN Earthworms

Why Earthworms Are So Fabulous

How to Entice Earthworms

Why Type Matters

An Extra Dose of Caution

Santa Barbara

CERTIFIED

Biodynamics

Tuning In to the Heartbeat of the Soil

What Exactly Is Biodynamics?

Biodynamic Vineyards

Healing the World with Biodynamics

A Visit to the Vineyard

I Am a Lazy Gardener (So I Can Spend More Time Cooking)

Eat Local Food… in Italy!

A Unique “edible” Tour of Italy’s Piemonte Region

September 22–29, 2012

To Find Out More…

Lazy Tips

Recommended Reading

Recipe

Broiled Fennel with Parmesan

Almonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend

OK,

WHAT THE WINEMAKERS ARE DRINKING: BEER

Hippie Kicker IPA — Hollister Brewing Company

Black Mamba Ale — Island Brewing Company

Doppel Dunkel Weizen Bock — The

Velvet Merlin — Firestone Walker Brewing Company

Dining Guide edible

Santa Barbara and Carpinteria

Bouchon

Carlitos Café y Cantina

The Wine Cask

Santa Ynez Valley

Full of Life Flatbread

FULL of LIFE

Flatbread

Root 246