edible
ISSUE 40 • WINTER 2019
Santa Barbara
Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County
Funghi Heirloom e laGreen Cucina Corn Italiana Frittata Talking and Her Shiitake CousinsJetsetter Earth toofTable the Vines Mistaken Comfort Identity Food T E N
Y E A R
L A T OR LYO C/A L L O Y A L A N N I VL O E YA R S
T O
L O C A L
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WIL FERNANDE Z
FR AN COLLIN
winter page 34
Departments 6 Food for Thought
24 Edible Profile
by Krista Harris
Winemaker Matt McKinney by Adam McHugh
8 Small Bites by Rosminah Brown 11 In Season 12 Seasonal Recipes Lemony Fish Piccata Lemony Spaghetti Squash with Goat Cheese and Spinach
16 Edible Voices
Funghi e la Cucina Italiana by Laura Booras
74 Event Calendar
18 Edible Garden
Winter’s Don’t-Miss Dish by Liz Dodder
Cold Brew to Winter’s Rescue by George Yatchisin JOSHUA CURRY
34 Global Local Cuisine
76 Eat Drink Local Guide
22 Drinkable Landscape
2 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
Beer and Wine Get Cozy by Brian Yaeger
A Letter to Our Community by Clark Staub Okey-Dokey Artichokey by Joan S. Bolton
page 12
28 Edible Drinks
80 The Last Bite
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winter
Features by John Cox
58 Getting Wild Baking with Natural Sourdough by Benjamin York
64 Jetsetter of the Vines A Day in the Life of Winemaster Randy Ullom by Sonja Magdevski 68 Comfort Food
by Pascale Beale
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
49 Edible Santa Barbara Wedding Guide
page 73
Recipes in This Issue Soup 70 Carrot and Leek Soup with Zesty Shallots
Side Dishes 14 Lemony Spaghetti Squash with Goat Cheese and Spinach 73 Mashed Spuds with Crème Fraîche 36 Roasted Lion’s Mane Mushrooms 73 Roasted Root Vegetables
Main Dishes 35 Individual Spinach and Oyster Mushroom Lasagna 12 Lemony Fish Piccata 71 Roast Chicken
Dessert 73 Apple Crumble ABOUT THE COVER
Beverage
Trumpet mushrooms. Photo by Erin Feinblatt.
23 The Buzz of Delight
4 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
JOSHUA CURRY
38 Talking Shiitake
EdibleSantaBarbara.com WINTER 2019 | 5
FOOD FOR THOUGHT Issue #40 There is a reason why a decade sounds like an impressive amount of time. Ten years of publishing a magazine is a milestone. And one that we’ll want to celebrate with our 10-year anniversary party in the spring. But this issue, number 40, really gives me a sense of accomplishment, of having survived these years with their ups and downs. Throughout them all I’ve always had hope and a sense of purpose to keep me going. Steve and Krista at Rusack Vineyards. When I started Edible Santa Barbara in the fall of 2008, the economy was tanking, businesses were uncertain and yet there was a resurgence in people thinking about food— comfort food, local food, homemade and homegrown food. I felt that it wasn’t just a trend but a shift in how we thought about food. And I felt that a magazine devoted to local food was just what Santa Barbara County needed. Perhaps naively, I thought that every issue would inspire me and be my creative outlet as much as the first. And that as the magazine grew, it would be just as easy to oversee every little detail. But I quickly realized that the magazine wasn’t my magazine, it was a collaboration with all the contributors, all the advertisers, the subjects of the stories and the readers. People are what have made Edible Santa Barbara come alive in the hearts and minds of this community. I could tell you stories of the generosity of farmers, chefs and winemakers who have supported us over the years. I could tell you about the passion the writers and photographers bring to their work in the pages of every issue. I could mention the copy editor whom I have counted on since the first issue to clean up every article that goes into this magazine. I also have the most amazing writer to help me with social media and a recipe editor who is a treasured colleague and friend. I couldn’t appreciate more the work that my advertising and events manager does for the magazine. And then there is my partner, husband, creative director and co-publisher, Steve Brown. He likes to joke that he is just behind the scenes—doing everything from delivering magazines to balancing the books, when he is not designing the magazine or adjusting every photograph that goes into it. His talented efforts are appreciated by everyone who sees the magazine or holds it in their hands. The strength and success of Edible Santa Barbara is due to all these people. I could not be prouder to be part of this community. I look forward to celebrating with all of you and raising our glass to toast to the next decade!
Krista Harris, Editor and Co-Publisher
We want to see and hear from you. Email us at info@ediblesantabarbara.com. Follow and tag us on Instagram @ediblesb and #ediblesb. 6 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
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SANTA BAR BAR A Member of Edible Communities
Edible Communities James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year (2011)
PUBLISHERS
Steven Brown & Krista Harris EDITOR
Krista Harris RECIPE EDITOR
Nancy Oster COPY EDITING & PROOFING
Doug Adrianson DESIGNER
Steven Brown ADVERTISING & EVENTS
Katie Hershfelt ads@ediblesantabarbara.com SOCIAL MEDIA
Jill Johnson
Contributors Pascale Beale Joan S. Bolton Laura Booras Rosminah Brown Fran Collin John Cox Joshua Curry Liz Dodder Wil Fernandez Sonja Magdevski Adam McHugh Clark Staub Carole Topalian Brian Yaeger George Yatchisin Benjamin York Edible Santa Barbara® is published quarterly and distributed throughout Santa Barbara County. Subscription rate is $28 annually. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Publisher expressly disclaims all liability for any occurrence that may arise as a consequence of the use of any information or recipes. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.
®
Congratulates Edible Santa Barbara on 10 years of making our community a better place with the power of word and image and engagement
“ It isn’t what we say or think that defines us, but what we do.” —Jane Austen Ten Years ago Krista and Steve took a leap of faith and entered into the publishing world at a time when many proclaimed the demise of physical magazines. They dove headlong into the food worlds of those that underpin the very livelihood of Santa Barbara County. They did so with the dedication and care of the true professionals that they are. Since its inception Edible Santa Barbara has been an indispensable resource to readers and inescapable force for farmers, ranchers, bakers and chefs. The depth to which Edible Santa Barbara reaches is awesome and I, for one, am grateful for the contribution they have made in this fertile landscape we call home. — Clark Staub
Full of Life Flatbread was founded in 2003 in the Northern Santa Barbara County enclave of Los Alamos. We have proudly changed our menu weekly for 15 years based on what this amazing landscape offers.In our tenure we have become friends with so many amazing farmers, ranchers, fishermen and food artisans as well as other chefs who always reconfirm the amazingness of our region. Krista and Steve and the dedicated team they have created confirm this with each issue, and we are proud to support what they have created and do.
Open Thursday 4:30–9pm / Friday 4:30–10pm / Saturday 11am–10pm/ Sunday 11am–8pm / Field Bakes 225 West Bell Street, Los Alamos, CA (805) 344-4400 FullofLifeFoods.com @fulloflifefoods
Small Bites
Words and photos by Rosminah Brown
Sweet Treats From Hook & Press
The Wild Posy
Santa Barbara welcomes upscale doughnut shop Hook & Press Donuts to the downtown food scene. It is the product of years of doughnut research by married couple John Burnett and Denisse Salinas. Salinas was already a private chef while Burnett took a left turn from a career in mortgage lending to start making yeasty fried sugary treats.
Making Edible Moments and Memories
Together they come up with seasonal fresh flavors that everyone who loves sugar and gluten can appreciate. There are eight flavors at any one time, yeast-raised and glazed, and they sell out fast. Fresh is best, after all.
The Wild Posy custom creates desserts, like doughnut and ice cream sandwiches drizzled with edible flowers, or popsicles with pourovers of coffee, fizzy juice or wine. These desserts are vibrantly photogenic and utterly delicious—which is exactly what memories of special shindigs are made of. Jaime seeks out local partners for her desserts, like Handlebar Coffee, Hook & Press Donuts, McConnell’s Ice Cream, or baked goods from private chef Lori Stern, and provides the pushcart or trailer that best fits the occasion along with staffing and service.
Hook & Press uses a commissary kitchen to make their doughnuts and shares retail space in the Mosaic Locale with three other businesses, including Buena Onda empanadas, a brewery and fresh juices. In addition to offering combination deals within their shared space, they collaborate with neighboring businesses. For instance, you can get an hour of doughnuts and kitten cuddles at the Cat Therapy cat café around the corner in Victoria Court, or get specialoccasion doughnuts through The Wild Posy. Doughnuts are $3.25 apiece and each is made with love and creativity. You won’t find others like these in town. Oh yes, and they even have doughnuts for doggie friends, too. Hook & Press Donuts: 1131 State St. (inside the Mosaic Locale), Santa Barbara. 805 689-6820; Instagram: @hookandpressdonuts; HookAndPressDonuts.com 8 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
What is a byproduct when you run a wildly successful full-service event-planning business? You get an insight into what people say they want, what they really want, what’s a niche that needs filling and then you build it. Enter The Wild Posy, a mobile dessert service run by Jaime Kostechko, who also heads up Wild Heart Events as owner and creative director. Based in Santa Barbara with a background in food service, Jaime found that the local wedding industry had room for a dessert business that put a spotlight on food as an interactive experience.
Juggling the volume and full-time demand of event planning alongside running the dessert carts would seem like a daunting task, but then again, The Wild Posy does not have a brick-andmortar retail location. It is a mobile business for special events that Wild Heart may already be managing. “Waiting for someone else to fill in the niche didn’t make sense,” says Jaime, “and thankfully, I have an awesome team.” Learn more about The Wild Posy at @thewildposy on Instagram or visit TheWildPosy.com.
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in Season this winter Winter Produce
Year-Round Produce
Winter Seafood
Artichokes Avocados Basil Blood oranges Broccoli rabe (rapini) Brussels sprouts Cabbage Celery Celery root Chanterelle mushrooms Cherimoya Cilantro Citron Collards Dill Escarole Fava beans Fennel Grapefruit Green garlic Kiwi Kohlrabi Kumquats Limes Mustard greens Onions, green bunching Papayas Parsnips Pea greens Peas, snap Persimmon Pineapple guava Pomelos Radicchio Romanesco Rutabagas Sapote Strawberries Sunchokes Sweet potatoes Tangerines/Mandarins Tomatoes, hothouse Turnips
Almonds, almond butter
Halibut Mussels Ridgeback shrimp Rock fish Sardines Spiny lobster Spot prawns White seabass
(harvested Aug/Sept)
Apples Arugula Beans, dried Beets Bok choy Broccoli Carrots Cauliflower Chard Dandelion Dates
(harvested Sept/Oct)
Edible flowers Garlic
(harvested May/June)
Herbs
(Bay leaf, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme)
Kale Leeks Lemons Lettuce Mushrooms Onions, bulb
(harvested May/June)
Oranges Pistachios, pistachio oil (harvested Sept/Oct)
Potatoes Radishes Raisins
(harvested Sept/Oct)
Shallots Spinach Sprouts Squash, winter
Year-Round Seafood Abalone (farmed) Black cod Clams Oysters Rock crab Sanddabs Urchin
Other Year-Round Coffee (limited availability) Dairy
(Regional raw milk, artisanal goat- and cow-milk cheeses, butters, curds, yogurts and spreads)
Eggs Fresh flowers Honey Olives, olive oil Meat
(Beef, chicken, duck, goat, rabbit, pork)
Potted plants/herbs Preserves Wheat
(Wheat berries, wheat flour, bread, pasta and baked goods produced from wheat grown locally)
(harvested July/Oct)
Walnuts, walnut oil (harvested Sept/Oct)
Yams
(harvested Aug/Sept)
EdibleSantaBarbara.com WINTER 2019 | 11
seasonal
Recipes
Lemony Fish Piccata Lemons are almost as ubiquitous in the kitchen as salt and pepper. They appear in both savory and sweet recipes—either as supporting notes or as stars of the dish. Although the height of local lemon season is winter, thankfully we can often find trees with lemons ripening all year long. For a lemon lovers menu, make the Lemony Fish Piccata along with the Lemony Spaghetti Squash with Goat Cheese and Spinach (on page 14). A classic Italian piccata dish is usually made with veal or chicken, but the bright flavors of the lemon and capers work equally well with fish. Makes 2 servings 2 fillets of a mild, white fish, such as local halibut or rock cod Flour
Egg Salad Sandwich
Salt and pepper 1 large lemon or 2 small lemons
What to do with your beautiful onion-skin-dyed Easter Olive oil eggs? First on the list must be a classic egg salad sandwich. Butter, about 3 tablespoons total You have many variations to choose from so you won’t get 1 tablespoon capers, or more to taste tired of them, even if you’ve made dozens of eggs. Makes 2 sandwiches
Parsley, chopped (optional garnish)
3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped
Dredge the fish fillets in a small amount of flour seasoned with salt and pepper on a plate. Zest and juice the lemon (you should have at least 1–2 tablespoons of lemon juice).
2 tablespoons mayonnaise or 1 tablespoon mayonnaise and 1 tablespoon crème fraiche
Heat a splash of olive oil and about 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat until the butter is foamy. Add the Additions: fish and cook for 2–3 minutes, turn and cook another 2–3 minutes, • A tablespoon of something crunchy, such as capers, chopped until lightly browned and opaque all the way through. Remove celery, chopped pickled vegetables, chopped radishes or chopped from the pan and set aside. onion Add the lemon juice and white wine to deglaze the pan; if it evapo• A sprinkling of chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, rates right away add a little more wine. Scrape up any bits clinging cilantro, chervil or tarragon to the pan. Add the capers and cook just until heated. Add about • A dash of something tangy, such as lemon or lime juice, or the a tablespoon of butter along with the reserved lemon zest and stir pickled juice or caper brine if you used either of those or a dash until the sauce is smooth. Taste and add salt and pepper if needed. of white wine vinegar Add the fish to the pan for just a few seconds to warm it back up Bread (sliced bread, baguette, bagel, roll, croissant or slider bun) and serve with the sauce poured over the fish and garnished with a Additional mayonnaise and/or mustard (optional) little parsley. Additional pickled vegetables (optional) — Krista Harris Lettuce Combine the eggs, mayonnaise, seasoning and additions and mix untilBARBARA incorporated but2018 with a still chunky texture. Taste and add 12 | EDIBLE SANTA FALL more seasoning or additions if needed.
JOSHUA CURRY
Salt and pepper, to taste
BALANCED
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seasonal
Recipes
Lemony Spaghetti Squash with Goat Cheese and Spinach Serve this with the Lemony Fish Piccata on page 12 or serve as a light entrée on its own. Makes 2 servings 1 small to medium spaghetti squash Olive oil Salt and pepper 1 lemon 1–2 cloves garlic, minced Red pepper flakes Spinach, sliced if leaves are large 3–4 ounces soft, fresh goat cheese
Preheat oven to 400°. Place whole squash in oven 5–10 minutes to soften. Then cut in half, scoop out seeds and place cut side down on a baking sheet with a little bit of water to just coat the surface. Bake for 20 minutes, or until completely softened. Remove and let cool slightly. Zest and juice the lemon. Scrape the flesh of the squash into a large, warmed bowl with a fork to break into strands. Add the lemon juice and zest, cover to keep warm and set aside.
Add the spinach to the bowl of spaghetti squash, crumble the goat cheese and stir to combine all the ingredients. Drizzle with a little olive oil if it looks dry. Taste and add salt and pepper if needed. — Krista Harris
14 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
JOSHUA CURRY
Heat a large, deep sauté pan over medium heat. Pour in enough olive oil to coat the bottom and the garlic and a pinch of red pepper flakes or more, to taste. Add as much spinach as will fit in the pan and work in batches if needed. Add salt and pepper to the spinach and cook just until tender and wilted.
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EDIBLE VOICES
A Letter to Our Community Regarding the Proposed Relocation of the
Saturday Farmers Market by Clark Staub PHOTOGRAPHY STEVEN BROWN
T
his morning I departed in the early morning and drove 50 minutes to the Saturday morning Santa Barbara Farmers Market, as I have done most every Saturday morning for the 15 years my restaurant, Full of Life Flatbread, has been open. While the weekly journey entails almost two hours of driving, it exemplifies what I feel defines my business: access to fresh, seasonal ingredients and a direct interaction with the very people who have dedicated themselves to producing these goods. It is at the foundation of what I do as a restaurateur. Since I like to schedule my valuable time and route such lengthy “supply” missions, I typically walk across the street from the farmers market to the French Press for my morning coffee, I stop at Smart & Final around the corner and I go to the Santa Barbara Fish Market. To me it is a community trip: My “community” consists of dedicated food professionals and businesses that help me with what I do. In the process I also realize that I am spending my money in a community— Santa Barbara. Although my business is located in Los Alamos— a rural part of northern Santa Barbara County— I consider the city of Santa Barbara to be a part of my community. In 1999 I founded a farmers market in Claremont, California, and I know firsthand what effect such an endeavor can have on a community. In my case, pre-1999 Claremont had a sad, small farmers market in a vacant parking lot that was under-attended and poorly presented. After a strenuous process I was able to move and “relaunch” the market in a vital part of Claremont. I watched a majority of local businesses that were previously closed during the time of our relocated farmers market reopen. Soon “farmers market day” was the busiest day for local businesses. The community spoke with their presence and their dollars. Opposite: Clark Staub at the Saturday Santa Barbara Farmers Market.
16 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
Where to Find Local Urchin Why Relocate the Saturday Farmers Market? The City of Santa Barbara has identified the Saturday Farmers Market location (119 E. Cota St.) as one of two potential sites for a new police station. While we understand that the police department must identify a new location in order to serve our community, a relocation could have serious impacts on our access to local food, as well as the economic viability of our farmers and agricultural producers. We urge our local representatives to carefully consider these impacts. An alternate location for the farmers market should be chosen with input and full support from the Farmers Market Association.
For 15 years I have been attending the Saturday morning Santa Barbara Farmers Market, and it is in a vital location convenient to walking and biking residents, locally flourishing businesses and important and growing tourist centers. As a 35-year historical market, it serves as a hub for both locals and visitors to come and shop and socialize at the market. I have noticed the influx of chefs and customers from as far as Los Angeles beginning to be “regulars” at the Saturday morning market. It is that good of a market! Any relocation of the Saturday Morning Farmers Market has to be done in a way that will not harm the farmers, the community surrounding its current location and the larger community of residents, visitors and businesses that have come to rely on the 35 years of this vital business contribution. Clark Staub is the chef, founder and owner of Full of Life Flatbread in Los Alamos.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com WINTER 2019 | 17
EDIBLE GARDEN
Okey-Dokey Artichokey by Joan S. Bolton
S
pectacular thistle or delectable dish?
Artichokes are a little of both. If you don’t harvest their tasty, tender buds in spring, the prehistoric-looking plants will produce thready, iridescent lavender flowers the size of softballs by summer. Botanically speaking, artichokes are indeed a perennial thistle (Cynara cardunculus var. scolymus). They are also a member of the sunflower family, native to the Mediterranean and ideal for growing on the Central Coast, where they thrive with the same cool, moist winters and warm, dry summers as their homeland. Frost-free pockets along the coast are most desirable. The entire U.S. commercial crop comes from California, with the bulk from Castroville. Locally, just west of Lompoc, with its year-
18 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
round coastal fog and chilly ocean breezes, Baroda Farms grows artichokes on 250 acres and sells more than 100,000 cartons a year. But because artichokes bear their main crop in spring, you can grow them in warmer inland areas as well by taking steps to mitigate summer heat and winter freezes. Even if you never harvest a single bud (perish the thought), they are still fabulous landscape plants, with bold, architectural silhouettes, silvery deeply serrated leaves and gorgeous purple flowers.
Getting Started Artichokes are easiest from bare-root, with nurseries offering dormant divisions through February. If you miss that window, young plants are often available in spring.
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Buy local so you can inspect the roots, which should be plump, moist and smell earthy. Fresh tips may be emerging from the rough, chunky mass. Ideally you will have dug a hole before bringing home your new bare-root plant, to avoid letting it sit, exposed to the world, and dry out. Must-haves in the garden include loose soil, fertility and excellent drainage. Artichokes may live five or six years and send down surprisingly deep roots—to two feet or more. Loose, sandy or loamy soil helps those roots dive deep. Drainage is key. Plants may not survive winter if forced to endure cold puddles for days on end. Keep them away from other permanent plants, including shrubs, vines and trees. Artichokes don’t like to compete for water, nutrients or space. Know that a single plant can span five feet and grow three to four feet tall. They are true behemoths— some might say in a charming, rustic or sculptural sort of way. But you only need one plant, as artichokes do not require a companion for pollination. Although you’ll make quite a statement if you set out a full row.
In the Garden
C AROLE TOPALIAN
There are no second chances with planting a perennial edible: Good soil prep is essential. Choose a spot that receives a minimum of six hours of daily sunlight by early spring. Away from the coast, morning sun is best, with some afternoon shade. Mark a circle at least three feet wide. Loosen the soil down 12 to 18 inches, then mix through the entire profile a third to half that volume of fine-textured compost, well-aged manure or other organic material. Within the top six inches or so, add a slow-release fertilizer containing phosphorous for root development and flowering;
20 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
potassium for overall vigor; and mycorrhizae to help the artichoke more efficiently take up nutrients and moisture. If gophers are an issue, use a large gopher basket. Bury the root chunk with only the growing tips above ground. Shape a watering basin at least three feet wide. My theory is that no basin is too big, because artichokes get huge at their bases and quickly obliterate anything of a more standard size. Fill the basin several times to really soak the soil. Then water once a week if winter rains don’t comply. Keep your plant wellwatered while buds form. After a few good-sized leaves appear, start applying light doses of nitrogen monthly. Or apply earthworm castings, fish emulsion, kelp, weekly drenches of compost tea or some other natural, slow-release product to provide nutrients, trace elements and the like. You may also need to bait for ants, snails, slugs or earwigs.
What to Expect Artichokes often take a year to swing into full production, so don’t be discouraged if your first-year plant doesn’t get enormous or bear scads of luscious buds and flowers. A few smaller buds may appear by fall. But the first real harvest won’t likely begin until next spring, once the roots have bulked out and started sending up stems in earnest. A mature plant produces about 10 stems, with a succession of four to five flowers on each. Harvest the buds while still tightly closed. Slice them off with a few inches of stem, which is edible, too. That first flush of buds will be your largest chokes. Those appearing farther down will be smaller but just as flavorful. After harvest, whack down the foliage almost to the ground. Stop watering to initiate dormancy. About a month later, begin watering again for a fall crop. The buds will be smaller and possibly cone-shaped, but still delicious. You might let some buds go to flower. They’re great for sustaining wild bees and other pollinators, and are beautiful in the garden and in bouquets. However, if you garden in summer heat, do let any remaining spring-time buds go to flower. You won’t be getting that bonus fall crop because your artichoke will go dormant when temperatures reach the mid-80s. Cut down the withered foliage and stop watering until fall. Before any danger of frost, cut any remaining foliage to about a foot, bend it over the crown, then mulch with about 12 inches of straw, chopped leaves or other loose material over winter. Come spring, uncover the crown to greet a new season. After a few years, look for new plants at your artichoke’s base. After the spring or fall harvest, gently cut and lift out the newcomers, taking care not to damage too many roots. Prep new holes and start anew. Joan S. Bolton is a freelance writer, garden coach and garden designer who confesses to a lifelong love affair with plants. She and her husband, Tom, have filled their four-acre property in western Goleta with natives and other colorful, water-conserving plants. They also maintain avocado, citrus and fruit trees and grow vegetables and herbs year-round. SantaBarbaraGardens.com
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DRINKABLE LANDSCAPE
Cold Brew to Winter’s Rescue by George Yatchisin
I
t’s a wonderful age to be cocktail creative, for distillers continually come up with new things for you to play with. In Santa Barbara we have the good fortune to be the home of Cutler’s Artisan Spirits, and Ian Cutler has something delicious up his distilling sleeve: Cold Brew Coffee Liqueur. Now, the problem with most coffee-tinged alcohol products is they seems to assume we all dump four tablespoons of sugar into our coffee mugs, and make their products too sickeningly sweet. Cutler doesn’t do that; as with the rest of his product line, everything is about balance and delivering what you most expect. This liqueur is delicious coffee first, every other note second at best. So while it’s a perfect straight-sipper after dinner, it’s also fun to mix with. That brings us to this issue’s drink, The Buzz of Delight. Its inspiration—as is so much of mixology—is New Orleans, in particular the spectacle of Café Brûlot. As most famously popularized at the venerable Arnaud’s, Café Brûlot is as much theater as a drink, for it involves table service, flames and the blue glow of alcohol-powered coffee working its way down a long spiral of orange peel. Hoping to honor those core flavors of coffee, brandy and orange, I came
22 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
up with The Buzz of Delight. Why use coffee when you can use coffee liqueur? And why not use oranges we can pick in our very own yards? As for brandy, while we don’t quite yet have any local (although Ian Cutler is working on an amazing project with Deborah Hall and truly old-vine Mission grapes to fix that, too), we can try yet another newish product that’s an ungainly mouthful: Francis Ford Coppola’s Maria Gaetana Agnesi 1799 Small Batch American Brandy. And I promise I didn’t pick it simply to help me get to my article’s word count. It’s part of a line of distilled spirits long-time winemaker Coppola is releasing all named after esteemed women; Agnesi was a mathematician ahead of her time who passed away in 1799 —the smooth, easy-sipping brandy is just five years old. Combine the three flavors and they all push and pull at each other’s boundaries: The coffee’s chocolate edges up a notch; the brandy’s vanilla sings a harmony; the orange’s acid keeps everything focused, but of course it’s sort of sweet, too. It does exactly what a three-ingredient drink is supposed to: make you reconsider the joys of geometry and the powers of triangles. And want another. After all, the three-ingredient drink is having a moment; for just one proof check out the 2018 James Beard nominee 3-Ingredient Cocktails: An Opinionated Guide to the Most Enduring Drinks in the Cocktail Canon by Robert Simonson.
The Buzz of Delight Makes 2 cocktails 3 ounces Cutler’s Cold Brew Coffee Liqueur 3 ounces brandy (recommended: Francis Ford Coppola’s Agnesi 1799 American Brandy) 2 ounces freshly squeezed orange juice 2 orange peels 4 dashes per drink of El Guapo Chicory-Pecan Bitters (optional)
Add the coffee liqueur, brandy and orange juice to a cocktail
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shaker with ice. Shake vigorously to chill and combine. Double strain (to keep all the orange pulp out) into 2 clear, low glasses.
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You want it to look like an espresso-style drink when you’re done. And there will be a lovely little foamy layer atop.
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Add the dashes of bitters at this point if you want them. Flame each orange peel and add to the drinks.
wines of vision, balance and character Or have a Manhattan, Margarita or Martini, to just run through three famous, classic alliterative examples. Famed bartender Audrey Saunders put it this way: “The three-ingredient cocktail doesn’t lie.” Easy, pleasing, direct— everything one might want in an age that often thinks its bells need whistles. That said, you can go with one more ingredient if you want to add even more depth and length: a few dashes of bitters. Here we again turn to New Orleans (OK, I might be a bit obsessed) and to the El Guapo Chicory-Pecan Bitters. These bitters bring out similar flavors in the Cold Brew and the Agnesi, making everything a bit more vivid. Especially on the nose. We also get to use a garnish we’ve used before for the Spring 2017 GB Cocktail: flamed orange peels. You might need to practice this move before you do it for guests. Slice off some very fresh orange peel; it is harder to do with an orange that’s been picked for a while as the skin gets drier and you need oils. If you get a bit of pith that’s OK; this trick is easier with a thicker piece of skin. While it’s sort of instinctual to try to squeeze it from long end to long end, instead hold the peel by its narrow sides. Light a flame between the peel and the drink’s surface, and squeeze. The oil in the peel will spark through your flame to the cocktail. The flamed citrus, which you do drop into the drink, mellows the twist a bit and adds a hint of smoke. And while it’s nowhere near as spectacular as a Café Brûlot presentation at Arnaud’s, you’ll get to drinking quicker and save yourself a plane ticket.
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George Yatchisin happily eats, drinks and writes in Santa Barbara. He blogs at GeorgeEats.com.
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EDIBLE PROFILE
Winemaker Matt McKinney by Adam McHugh PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSHUA CURRY
S
o many winemakers arrive at the world of wine by surprising paths, called out of usually more sensible life directions to the pursuit of the right place and the perfect wine. Matt McKinney’s path to making wine began on the back of a Ford F150 on a closed-down freeway in San Juan, Puerto Rico. In January 2010, the professional volleyball team he starred on won the Puerto Rican Superior League Championship. The local police shut down the freeway, so McKinney and his teammates could take a victory lap in the bed of a pickup truck with seemingly the entire volleyball-crazed city parading behind, horns honking. Hours before, his team had trailed 2–0 in the best-out-offive championship match. There was more than volleyball hopes at stake for McKinney. His family owned a ranch in the Santa Ynez Valley, and before the season began, he made a deal with his dad, Harry, and mom, Lee Ann, who moved their family from Woodland Hills to Santa Ynez in 1992. 24 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
“We had 10 acres and we weren’t doing anything with it,” McKinney explains. “I had been asking my dad for years if we could plant a vineyard on our property, but he had always shrugged it off. I made a deal with him that year that if we won the championship, I could plant the vineyard.” Perhaps with the aid of the wine gods, the team rallied to win the final three sets and the match. The frenzied celebration, and McKinney Family Vineyards, was begun. That spring, back in bucolic and much quieter Santa Ynez, the family planted a quarter acre of Syrah and a quarter acre of Viognier. Considered the #1 volleyball prospect in the country coming out of Santa Ynez High School, McKinney was recruited to play volleyball and basketball at UCLA. He broke his foot on the first day of fall practice his sophomore season. In his junior year he led the volleyball team into the NCAA quarterfinals, only to tear the labrum in his shoulder. The injuries, combined with nagging stomach ailments, forced him to medically retire before his senior year.
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Sitting in the guest house on the back of his family property, which also doubles as command center for McKinney Family Vineyards, he still feels the disappointment of his UCLA career. “I grew up in Woodland Hills going to UCLA basketball games, and getting a scholarship was a dream come true,” he says. “My life now looks so dreamy to people from the outside, but there has been so much hardship underneath it all.” After college, he gave volleyball one more chance, practicing with the U.S. National Team in Anaheim, which led to his opportunity in Puerto Rico. The championship there renewed his passion for the sport, and he came home and trained for the AVP tour, the professional beach volleyball league. But when his partner went down in a match with a hamstring injury and the AVP declared bankruptcy, McKinney sensed it was time to think about post-volleyball plans. He moved home and started a new type of training: learning how to make wine. When he interviewed for a harvest internship at the Dierberg Starlane Vineyard in 2015 he sounded very much like an elite athlete. He told their winemaker, Tyler Thomas, he was “prepared to get here early and stretch every day.” The following year, he interned for Dragonette Cellars, where he recalls a serious conversation with one of their winemakers, Brandon Sparks-Gillis. “I told Brandon that I wanted to work harvest with them,” he says. “Brandon looked me dead in the eye and said, ‘Do you have any idea what you are getting yourself into? Do you have any clue how brutally hard this industry is?’” McKinney calls that conversation a gut check. “Just because you are passionate about something doesn’t mean it will happen,” he admits. “I have had to prove to my family and myself, over and over again, that this is what I want to do and that I am willing to put in the work to make it happen.” In addition to the harvest internships, McKinney took viticulture and winemaking classes at nearby Allan Hancock College and sat in on sommelier classes to refine his palate. He also led wine tours with Santa Barbara wine tour company Coastal Concierge. As for his winemaking style, he considers his style a hybrid of Dierberg Starlane and Dragonette. “Dierberg has more of an Old World style: mineral-driven, higher acid, leaner profile,” he explains. “And they rely more on the numbers and science of winemaking. Dragonette is more about feel, about connection with the fruit, the vineyards and the wines. They are the best kind of New World winemakers, with ripe California fruit and lots of viscosity, but there is complexity and acidity as well.” Aside from occasional help from his cousins and vineyard worker friends, McKinney Family Vineyards is a one-man operation. He is vineyard manager and winemaker, wine club manager and accountant. Since the initial planting, McKinney has planted Grenache and Sangiovese on his property, digging the holes for new cuttings himself. He also regularly hosts private tours, inviting guests into his home for a slow afternoon tasting his wines and walking the vineyard. A history major at UCLA, McKinney invokes the history of wine with his bottlings. His flagship white is a Chardonnay called Queen Charlemagne, referencing the legend that King Charlemagne’s wife grew tired of red wine staining his beard and replanted the red varietals of their Burgundian estate with 26 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
McKinney explains the label of his wine: “My dad is a Taurus, my mom is a Libra, I am a Leo. The vineyard brings us all together, and the navigation stars are our family’s journey to the Santa Ynez Valley.”
white. He also makes a wine called Napoleon’s Secret, which is a Bordeaux-style red with a surprise blending partner. “In years when Bordeaux grapes were unripe, winemakers would blend in Syrah from the Rhone River Valley, and that is why I blend some of my Syrah into Napoleon’s Secret,” he explains. “The chateau classifications of Bordeaux were done in the time of Napoleon, and their secret was the Syrah.” He bottled in the spring of 2018 what could become his signature wine, Inspirado, a blend of 92% Syrah and 8% Viognier, all grown on his family vineyard inspired by his victory in Puerto Rico years ago. When pressed as to what drives him, McKinney says that while the winemaking process is important and satisfying to him, he perseveres because of a simple and abiding love for wine: “I love wine because of what it does to people. It is a way of appreciating the end of your day. It’s easy in life to not take the time to say, ‘Good job. You made it through the day. Here is what you accomplished.’ Someone handing you a glass of wine does that for you. It helps you slow down. I can do that for other people, by sharing the product I am making with family and friends. That brings them joy and it brings me joy. I can’t ask for anything else in life than to be a positive influence on my friends and family.” Adam McHugh is an author and Certified Specialist of Wine who lives in Santa Barbara. A former grief counselor, he now leads wine tours and is writing a book about all of it, to be released in 2020.
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Beer and Wine Get Cozy Co-fermenting with Grapes by Brian Yaeger
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nothing hits the spot like a cold, effervescent drink that lacks the complexity of the wines they make and, therefore, doesn’t require a lot of deep assessment. But perhaps this is the bridge that has, increasingly, linked these two worlds. There are some breweries (especially ones along the Central Coast where grape vines are entirely more abundant than hop bines) that are using grape must, juice or pomace in their beer recipes. The results can be mindblowing, both for beer drinkers seeking new styles and for wine lovers who are discovering that not all beers “taste like beer.” In today’s world where anything from black currants to white peaches to Earl Grey tea make their way into experimental beers, Fess Parker’s grandson, Kris Parker, has been experimenting with wine-beer hybrids since even before he launched Santa Barbara’s Third Window Brewing. Back in 2013 Parker began partnering with Orange County’s The Bruery. Fess Parker Winery provided pressed Rieslings for a sour blonde ale called Confession that was reminiscent of a dry yet funky white wine, as well as lateharvest Syrah grapes used in a beer called Wineification (with a base beer of The Bruery’s notorious Black Tuesday Imperial Stout) for a result that was more port-like. These days Third Window focuses less on wine grapes as an ingredient and more on barrel-aging using Fess Parker’s breadth of spent casks. Then again, having been asked to brew a Fess Parker 30th anniversary beer, Kris says to expect something with an element of wild fermented grape beer. FR AN COLLIN
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s noted on the bottle label of Firestone Walker Brewing Company’s Feral Vinifera, I immediately detect the pineapple accents mingling with Meyer lemon. But what’s more I detect hints of pomegranate vinegar. “Soft tannins”? Check. “Mouthwatering acidity”? Roger that. “Finishing with a flinty minerality”? Hey, what’s going on here? I thought this was supposed to be beer! Well, it is and it isn’t, but mostly it is. Before unboxing this paradox, let’s remember the old industry saying: “The road to wine is paved with beer bottles.” Before suggesting that that would make the middle of said road “wine-beers,” know that there’s nothing middle-of-the-road about beers co-fermented with wine grapes. (As a legal footnote, it’s verboten to blend wine and beer, and beer’s fermentables must be over 50% cereal like barley, so we’re talking about beers that ferment grape sugars alongside malted barley.) Firestone Walker’s first foray into this field was the 2013 collaboration of Mikkeller Brewing called Li’l Mikkel but they’re not the only ones doing this. Among the craft brewers along the Central Coast, Paso Robles’s Silva Brewing makes the roséinspired The Pink Stuff from Grenache Blanc grapes. And in Santa Barbara, Telegraph Brewing makes Trophy Fish using 30 gallons (virtually one barrel) of Grenache Blanc must in a batch of this beer that produced just 6.3 barrels of beer. It’s true that winemakers, at the end of a long day, wind up drinking lots of beer—usually the cheap, light stuff—because
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Kris Parker
“I’m trying to obtain equilibrium between yeast esters and hop esters,” says Parker at his brewery tasting room, adjacent to Potek Winery. The brewery hasn’t released much in the way of sour beers yet, but Parker notes, “The interesting thing about using grape pomace in sour beers is you get the bug [microorganism] effect if it sits for a long time. You also have the tannin component if you use grapes and seeds.”
Beer Slash Wine If you’ve seen the film Zoolander, Fabio self-mockingly refers to himself as “the best actor-slash-model, and not the other way around.” If there’s one thing driving this thin branch of the experimental beer category, it’s that both the producers and consumers are game for giving “beer-slash-wine” a shot in a way “wine-slash-beer” doesn’t fly. True, there are some notable exceptions. Field Recordings Wine in Paso Robles makes Foxíe, a rosé featuring grapefruity Simcoe hops; and Buttonwood’s Hop On, a dry-hop barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc, has a cult following. 30 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
FR AN COLLIN
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FR AN COLLIN
Brian Thompson
Jim Crooks
Meanwhile, Brian Thompson, founder of Telegraph Brewing located next to Carr Winery, says that he sees a lot of wine drinkers coming in for Telegraph’s sour beers including Trophy Fish. In 2015, Telegraph’s first wine-beer, as part of its Obscura series of wild ales, was Obscura Estancia co-fermented with grape must (Syrah, Pinot Noir and Viognier). Thompson notes that these beverages aren’t new at all, that much of the ancient fermented beverage making included grapes or other fruits and grains. But whereas those communally created batches likely slaked the thirsts of an entire tribe or village, today’s examples are finding their audience among progressive connoisseurs. Third Window’s Parker sees “the world of beer geekdom and the world of wine geekdom [as] fairly similar.” After 20 years in the brewing industry, brewmaster Chuck Silva parted ways with Green Flash in San Diego to move back to his native Central Coast, where he and his wife settled in Paso Robles to create Silva Brewing. From the get-go, despite exceling at hop-forward IPAs that put Green Flash on the
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map, Silva says, “My vision was to make something brut and champagne-like, not just accented by grapes.” And because Paso is surrounded by vineyards and wineries, it didn’t take long to befriend Anthony Yount, winemaker at Denner Vineyards just up the road from the brewery. Denner’s esteemed rosés weren’t exactly Silva’s inspiration, but obtaining the same free-run, coldstabilized Grenache juice allowed Silva to co-ferment with his kettle-soured ale. After a primary fermentation with a French saison ale yeast, the wine-beer then aged in French oak (previously used to mature white wine) and finished with a champagne yeast. The result—The Pink Stuff, which is as dry and effervescent as Silva aimed for in the realm of his favorite sparkling rosé—became an instant hit in Paso both among wine drinkers and beer drinkers (including the beer-drinking winemakers). Only one barrel was produced, but already the plan is to double, perhaps quadruple, that with this October’s Grenache Blanc crush. “The surprising thing for our customers was that it tastes more wine-like than beer-like,” notes Silva, allowing that the resulting beer displayed plenty of the grape character along with “subtleties of strawberry, raspberry and watermelon.” And therein lies the quandary of what a wine beer is supposed to taste like. When wine descriptions trip over themselves to express notes of lemon verbena or olallieberry coulis, for all their “jamminess,” it’s never grape jam. For ages, people were content to regale beers for their “hoppiness.” More and more, the qualifiers sound vinous. Gone are the days of potently hopped beers simply smacking of pine or citrus. Various hop varietals now throw tropical or stone fruit notes. In fact, industry darling Nelson Sauvin hops are renowned for their Sauvignon expression and by default, a glass of Sauvignon Blanc might be described as Nelson Sauvin-like. At Firestone Walker, Master Blender Jim Crooks is one of the people responsible for the above mentioned Feral Vinifera, which is actually a series of wine grape experiments. His office is the Buellton-based Barrelworks, where he’s got several barrels aging myriad beers co-fermented with mostly white wine grape varietals: Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Muscat, etc. The series is ongoing because the education is ongoing. Brix and titratable acidity aren’t typically the realm of the brewer’s measurements, but Crooks’s barrels are equal parts playground and classroom. Given the results, you’d never know he doesn’t come from a winemaking background, but again, this is serious beer. In fact, Feral Vinifera #4 didn’t merely earn a gold medal at the 2017 Brussels Beer Challenge, one of the most prestigious global beer competitions, it took home the Comac Trophy honoring the most notable “international revelation.” But then again, the Belgians have long understood the complexity and potential of experimental beers. Crooks says Feral Vinifera is “hard to describe using consistent English or German beer terminology. Winemakers have great descriptions and [Feral Vinifera] leans heavily toward tasting like wine.” The grapes came from Andrew Murray Vineyards; Murray is a friend and neighbor of the brewery’s namesake owners Adam 32 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
Resources VISIT Firestone Walker Brewing Company Taproom & Barrelworks Location: 620 McMurray Rd., Buellton FirestoneBeer.com Silva Brewing 525 Pine St. Suite B, Paso Robles SilvaBrewing.com Telegraph Brewing Company 418 N. Salsipuedes St., Santa Barbara TelegraphBrewing.com Third Window Brewing Co. 406 E. Haley St. #3, Santa Barbara ThirdWindowBrewing.com
ANOTHER HYBRID TO TRY Sam Sour by Captain Fatty’s Brewery Made with spent Grenache grapes from their neighbors, Samsara Wine Co. 6489 Calle Real, Suite D, Goleta CaptainFattys.com
JOIN US FOR AN EVENT Santa Barbara Botanic Garden’s Beer Garden Saturday, March 23, 1–4pm To learn more about hybrid-style beers and experience one-of-a-kind local beers, you can attend the Santa Barbara Botanic Garden’s Beer Garden. A beer curator and expert docents help participants learn more about the selected beers and the Garden’s collections. Acoustic music performances, nature education tables and paired finger foods supplied by area restaurants add to this multi-sensory, outdoor experience. Visit SBBG.org for tickets and more information.
Firestone and David Walker. “Andrew was blown away [by the results],” adds Crooks. “His winemaking terminology was like opening a new vocabulary to us.” Hence the pineapple and Meyer lemon notes, the soft tannins, the flinty minerality. Last fall, Firestone Walker threw the first Terroir Project Festival in Buellton. The didn’t pour any of their award-winning IPAs or “beer-flavored beers.” It was all about beers like Feral Vinifera that showcase wine grapes. Not just theirs, but a select group of other breweries’ from around the country and the world. Because if there’s one thing wines champion it’s vineyard terroirs. And with these hybrid-style beers, grapes are now the realm of beer as well. Brian Yaeger is the author of Red, White, and Brew and contributed to the Oxford Companion to Beer. He is an alumnus of UC Santa Barbara, where he developed a beer tasting class through Gaucho REC Classes.
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GLOBAL LOCAL CUISINE
Croissant Bread Pudding.
Individual Spinach and Oyster Mushroom Lasagna.
Funghi e la Cucina Italiana by Laura Booras PHOTOGRAPHY BY WIL FERNANDEZ
S
everal years ago, I was given a kit that claimed it could grow morel mushrooms in my own yard. I chose a cool, shady spot, dug out a 12-inch-deep section, turned the soil and mixed in the “seeds,” which really seemed just like inoculated dirt. When this process was finished, I read the last line of the instructions: “Wait five years.” Clearly, there was more to the mushroom thing than I realized … and I never saw a morel. Because of this disappointing experience, I have a great appreciation for the art of growing fabulous fungi. When I first met Branden Janikowski of Branden’s Gourmet Mushrooms at a Santa Maria farmers market a few years ago, I became immediately intrigued by his fantastic selection of unusual and delicious mushrooms. From blue oysters and lion’s mane 34 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
to shiitakes and chestnuts, Branden grows many varieties of exceptional ’shrooms, each unique and delicious. And the best part of it all? These mushrooms are all grown with love and attention at Branden’s mushroom farm in Orcutt, California. To say that Branden is devoted to his mushroom cultivation is an understatement; in visiting his small facility in the backyard of his home, it is clear that he has researched every possible detail. From choosing the perfect spawns for his mushrooms, to defining the method and humidity of farming, to even building his own equipment, he has created a most perfect environment. While I had pictured a dark, dank underground cave, Branden’s farm is well lit and meticulously organized. Small packets of baby mycelium starters line rows and rows of shelves, each harboring produce in various stages of growth.
Individual Spinach and Oyster Mushroom Lasagna Makes 6 servings 10 lasagna noodles, cooked al dente and set aside 1 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound sweet Italian sausage 3 shallots, chopped 3 pounds fresh spinach, chopped 4 garlic cloves, sliced 1 teaspoon lemon zest 2 tablespoons lemon juice 6 tablespoons butter 8 ounces oyster mushrooms, sliced 1
⁄ 3 cup flour
41 ⁄ 2 cups whole milk, warmed Grated fontina cheese Salt and pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 400°. In a large pan, heat the olive oil and crumble in the sausage until browned and cooked through. Add the shallots and cook another 3 minutes, until soft. Add spinach and wilt, then add the garlic and lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper and wilt the greens completely. Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice. In another pan, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter and add the mushrooms. Brown on all sides, about 4 minutes total. Set aside. In a clean pan, melt the rest of the butter on medium heat. Add the flour and whisk until completely combined. Cook about 2 minutes, until the flour and butter mixture smells like a baked cake. Add the warmed milk and whisk together. Continue to cook until the sauce is thick and creamy. To make the lasagna, put about ¼ cup of the bechamel sauce into the bottom of 6 (5-inch) dishes. Top with a noodle, then a few tablespoons of the spinach mixture. Add a few slices of mushrooms. Top with another noodle and a spoonful of bechamel sauce. Add some more spinach mixture and mushrooms. Top with 1 more noodle and 2 tablespoons grated fontina cheese. Bake for 30 minutes, or until browned and bubbly.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com WINTER 2019 | 35
Laura Booras with Branden Janikowski.
Surprisingly, at least to me, not all mushrooms grow in dark, damp places; in fact, many require certain amounts of sunlight. The blue oyster mushrooms, for example, explode with various shades of blues and greys, and almost resemble a flower bouquet when harvested. Additionally, temperature is important for proper mushroom cultivation. Branden said Santa Maria is an ideal place to cultivate mushrooms since the temperature remains in the mild mid-70s throughout daytime most of the year. Though some mushrooms are seasonal, this longer growing season allows for even and consistent mushroom growing. Mushrooms can, of course, be found in many cuisines around the globe, but generally my favorite mushroom dishes tend to revolve around hearty and rustic Italian food. The meaty texture and slight salinity of the blue oyster mushroom make it an excellent choice for winter lasagna, filled with leafy greens and garlic. And I like to roast the lion’s mane mushrooms for a fun side dish; I give these an Italian flair with rosemary, shallots and wine vinegar. The versatility of mushrooms is astounding, and a handful can easily be thrown into almost any dish to add interesting flavors and textures. Additionally, with such a great umami flavor, most mushroom dishes pair really well with local wines. Santa Barbara County’s diverse growing areas provide many options when it comes to Italian wine, and I found some standout pairings with these mushroom-based dishes and the local Cal-Ital wines. This is, of course, one of the things I love most about our community: the ability to build an exotic meal using local ingredients and pairing with local wines. Be ready to transport yourself to Italy. Read more about Branden and mushrooms in “Talking Shiitake” on page 38. You can find Branden’s Gourmet Mushrooms in local CSA boxes or at your local farmers market. For more information, follow @brandensgourmetmushrooms on Instagram. Recently returned from attending Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, Laura Booras is the general manager at Riverbench Vineyard & Winery in the Santa Maria Valley. She lives on the vineyard, where she regularly hosts food writers, celebrity chefs and wine critics for unique meals prepared with locally sourced ingredients. 36 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
Roasted Lion’s Mane Mushrooms 1 pound lion’s mane mushrooms, cut into 1-inch cubes 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons butter 2 large shallots, sliced 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1
⁄ 4 cup white wine
Salt and pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 375°. In a hot skillet, melt the olive oil and butter and add the mushrooms. Brown on 1 side, then add shallots and flip. Deglaze the pan a little with the vinegar and white wine, then put into the oven. Cook through, about 8 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, and top with rosemary.
Wine Pairings
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2017 Larner Malvasia Bianca This soft wine has flavors of stone fruit and citrus, which brighten the palate. LarnerWine.com 2016 Lepiane Barbera “Walker Vineyard” Vibrant and fresh, this juicy wine is exactly the thing for any pasta dish. LepianeWines.com 2015 Carhartt Estate Grown Sangiovese “11 Oaks Vineyard” This medium-bodied wine is full of bright red fruit and pairs beautifully with earthy mushrooms. CarharttVineyard.com
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Taking a stroll at the farmers market is the perfect way to get inspired with the season’s bounty every week at one of our area’s six markets. Be sure to mark your calendar for this Winter’s Special Cooking Demo.
Saturday, February 2 Sansum Clinic Presents: Farmers Market Cooking Demos Join Edible Santa Barbara and Sansum Clinic this quarter for live cooking demonstrations at the Farmers Market by some of our favorite local chefs, physicians and nutrition experts. You will learn about making food choices for optimal health and discover new techniques for preparing seasonal offerings. Demos will be held at 9am, 10am and 11am.
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Blue oyster mushroom.
Talking Shiitake by John Cox PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN COX
P
oorly prepared mushrooms are a gastronomic tragedy. I still have nightmares of flaccid gray slices weeping a wretched slime onto whatever was unfortunate enough to lie beneath them. As a child, I would carefully sequester these toxic shards into one corner of the plate in order to avoid contaminating the rest of the dish. I grew up believing that I hated all mushrooms. I am not alone in my mycophobia, but cellophane-wrapped supermarket button mushrooms, with their “classic mushroom” shape and ivory complexion, are considered palatable enough for most Americans. My relationship with mushrooms changed the first time I tried a Big Sur chanterelle. It was a revelation. A scruffy-looking forager in muddy hiking boots brought a basket of giant golden chanterelles to the backdoor of the kitchen of the Post Ranch Inn. The chanterelles were still damp from the morning rain and smelled of redwoods and oak leaves. Chef Craig von Foerster picked out a couple of small buttons 38 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
and cooked them in a smoking pan with clarified butter and sea salt. After a few moments the chanterelles took on a rich chestnut color with a crisp exterior that gave way to a rich center scented by the ethereal flavors of the forest. I realized how delicious properly prepared mushrooms could be, and I began a career-long quest to learn all I could about foraging, growing and cooking mushrooms. Technically called Agaricus bisporus, button mushrooms were the first cultivated mushrooms and have been grown in France since the late 1600s. It’s hard to imagine that these are the descendants of rare wild mushrooms harvested for the king in the forests around Paris. One day a group of workers near the catacombs in Paris noticed a few “Champignons de Paris” popping out of a pile of hay and manure inside the stable, likely from spores blown in from the forest or brought in by the horses. It is said that Monsieur Chambry, a farmer for the king, created a system for bringing piles of manure into the quarries
Yellow oyster mushrooms.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com WINTER 2019 | 39
in order to cultivate mushrooms year-round. By the 1880s, when concrete and other building technologies had allowed cultivation to expand beyond the system of caves, there were over 300 documented champignonnières throughout the city. While the Parisian mushrooms may have been A. bisporus, they would have been closer in color to the mushrooms we refer to as crimini or portabella than the white-capped button mushrooms that are so popular in supermarkets today. The ivory-colored cultivated mushrooms we enjoy were discovered by chance in the mushroom beds of a Pennsylvania farmer in 1926. Over the last 90 years they have been selectively bred for their desirable pale color. Agaricus mushrooms, which include button, crimini and portabella, make up over 97% of the mushrooms commercially
Blue oyster mushrooms.
40 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
sold in the United States. Each year more than 900 million pounds of these mushrooms are sold, representing a market value of over $1 billion. When executed properly, an astounding quantity of mushrooms can be grown in a small area. Not only are the yields impressive, two industrial by-products—chicken manure and soiled hay— can be turned into not just mushrooms, but also a nutrient-rich mushroom compost highly sought after by farmers and gardeners. Currently, organic mushrooms represent roughly 10% of total U.S. production. Nevertheless, demand for organic mushrooms has steadily been increasing over the last decade and farms around the country are becoming more incentivized to adopt this approach.
Brown beech mushrooms.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com WINTER 2019 | 41
Far West Fungi, with their flagship store in the San Francisco Ferry Building, has become an emporium for all things mushroom, both wild and domestic. Despite their San Francisco address, the farm is located on Trafton Road in Monterey County’s Moss Landing. The Garrone family began operating Far West Fungi in 1983 in the Hunters Point area of San Francisco. Initially, they focused on button mushrooms and supplies for growing mushrooms at home (they still sell mushroom kits for growing your own). Now, with a 60,000-square-foot facility in Moss Landing and an acclaimed retail operation in San Francisco, they focus on a multitude of cultivated mushrooms. The majority of their production is shiitake, shipping over 10,000 pounds per week, followed by oyster mushrooms at 4,000 pounds. The most exciting element of their operation, however, is their selection of specialty mushrooms. Whether you browse their selection of cultivated mushrooms at the Ferry Building or are fortunate enough to go on one of their farm tours, you will see an incredible array of mushrooms, bursting from the walls in a surreal spectrum of colors and shapes: reishi, which grows as hard as wood; lion’s mane, aptly named for its shaggy appearance; golden, pink and blue oyster mushrooms; and wood ear, which is shaped like a small, wrinkled ear.
Branden is clearly passionate about all things fungi and has personally built his own mushroom production facility in his backyard from various bits of salvaged material found on craigslist and around the community. On a visit to the Far West Farm several years ago, I noticed a beautiful clay cup sitting on Kyle Garrone’s desk. When I asked about the vessel, Kyle laughed and said it was a project he had been working on to mold cups using live reishi mushroom mycelium. I picked it up and was surprised to feel that it was as light as Styrofoam but seemed as firm and durable as clay. While the cup may have just been a fun project, it illustrated the family’s drive for innovation and new ideas. Upon investigation, I discovered other reishi mushroom objects, such as chairs and vases. The possibilities are apparently endless, and the implications for the future of food boundless. In my quest to learn more about mushroom cultivation, I visited Branden Janikowski at his home and small mushroom farm outside Santa Maria. From the outside, Branden’s home doesn’t stand out from the rest of the suburban-feeling neighborhood. Even inside there is nothing particularly unusual: a rack filled with local wines and a nicely appointed living room and kitchen. It’s not until Branden shows me outside the kitchen door and into what appears to be a converted sunroom that things start to get interesting. 42 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
Branden Janikowski at his mushroom farm.
Shiitake (above) and yellow oysters (below) at Branden’s farm.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com WINTER 2019 | 43
Cooking with chanterelle mushrooms.
44 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
Branden is clearly passionate about all things fungi and has personally built his own mushroom production facility in his backyard from various bits of salvaged material found on craigslist and around the community. The room has been lined with layers of insulated panel and almost completely filled with racks of plastic bags filled with incubating mushrooms. While tiny by commercial standards, seeing over a thousand bags of mushrooms hidden just outside a kitchen door was astonishing. On the left-hand side of the converted sunroom there was a further partitioned cubicle that serves as a “clean room.” This small area is sealed off from the rest of the production area and air is supplied through a special HEPA filter to eliminate any undesirable molds or bacteria. Beyond the clean room there is an autoclave, or steamer, that Branden built from more insulated panels and a 50-gallon oil drum that acts as a steamer. Branden starts his mushroom growing process with a mixture of wood pellets, similar to what you might use in a wood burning stove or cat litter box. The pellets are mixed with water in a cement mixer until they reach the right level of hydration. This growing medium, or substrate, is then loaded into another homemade machine that continues mixing the product while a pneumatic arm, operated by a food pedal, dispenses perfect portions of pulp into the growing bags. The filled bags are placed on rolling racks and steamed in the autoclave to create a hermetic environment before being loaded into the clean room, where they are inoculated with spawn for each variety of mushroom. At this point, Branden uses another of his proprietary machines, a large plastic drainage tube with baffles attached to a chain drive. He loads inoculated bags into this slowly rotating slide, where they are rolled around until reaching a production table a minute later. By the time the bags reach the table, the spawn has been evenly distributed throughout the substrate with very little manual labor. While the inoculated bags look at first as if they are filled with loose sawdust, that will change over the coming weeks on the incubation racks. Slowly the mycelium will begin to develop, feeding off the substrate and creating a firm Styrofoamlike structure. Depending on the species, mushrooms can require anywhere from two weeks to three months during the incubation stage. Once the mycelium has taken over and the bags are firm, the mushrooms will begin to “pin,” which is the stage wherein the fruit actually begins to emerge from the mycelium. The pinning bags are transported into the greenhouse, where the bags are slit open and the warmer temperature and sunlight accelerate the fruiting. A high-powered humidifier sprays the greenhouse with mist every few minutes to maintain a high humidity. While there is a misconception that all mushrooms must be grown in the dark, and certainly were grown in dark caves in the 1700s, different species require different light levels. Branden specializes in what he calls “tree mushrooms,” which typically require more light. These species include shiitake, oyster, lion’s mane and reishi.
10 Culinary Commandments of Mushroom Cooking 1
Select mushrooms that have a mild forest aroma (no ammonia or other strong odors). The mushrooms should be dry, but not shriveled or discolored. There should be no slime (with the exception of an incredibly freshly harvested porcini).
2
Never wash mushrooms. Either brush them or scrape them with a paring knife. There is an exception for black trumpet mushrooms and morels because they are less porous than other varieties.
3
If mushrooms feel moist to the touch, lay them out on a clean towel and dry in front of a fan prior to cooking.
4
Use the largest and heaviest pan in your collection on the stove over high heat.
5
Cook the mushrooms with either clarified butter or oil— choose something with a high smoke point so you can get maximum heat.
6
Do not crowd the pan! You should have a single layer of mushrooms in the pan and be able to easily see the pan between the pieces of mushroom.
7
Once the mushrooms are in the pan do not stir or move them until you can see the bottom edges beginning to brown.
8
Use a small pair of tongs or tweezers to turn over each individual mushroom as it browns.
9
Add a small piece of butter to the pan and toss the mushrooms to coat evenly. The solids in the butter will begin to caramelize and accelerate the browning process.
10
Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Be liberal in your seasoning, as much of the salt and pepper will end up on the bottom of the pan. You can always add flavorings of your choice: a touch of sherry, thyme, rosemary or perhaps a touch of truffle butter or lemon.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com WINTER 2019 | 45
A Quick and Non-Definitive Guide to Local Wild and Cultivated Mushrooms Button Mushrooms—Fresh local button mushrooms are nothing to turn your nose up at. For a quick, easy appetizer try the Casanova-inspired dish of an escargot-style mushroom. Simply remove the stems and invert the mushrooms to form a cup. Fill the mushrooms with butter, garlic, parsley and lemon juice then top with a touch of parmesan and breadcrumbs. Cook in a 500° oven until browned. Candycap— One of the world’s most rare mushrooms, these intensely maple-flavored caps add an unexpected depth to ice creams, pancakes and other creative culinary applications. Chanterelle—Not only are the chanterelles of the Central Coast one of the largest varieties of chanterelle in the world, they are also one of the most flavorful. These mushrooms are almost perfect on their own, but a touch of truffle butter takes them to another level. Lion’s Mane—These mushrooms look like little furry pom-poms and can sometimes be found at the farmers market. They are very porous and act like a sponge for flavor. Blue oyster mushroom.
In general, the fruiting mushrooms will double in size each day and are ready to be harvested within a week of pinning. Depending on the species, each block will continue to fruit for several weeks before being turned into the compost pile. I’ve even heard stories of mushroom blocks grown at home that have continued to produce for months with careful harvesting. In our mushroom cave at The Bear and Star, we easily grow enough to serve a range of fresh and unusual varieties in the restaurant year-round. Just as Monsieur Chambry and the stable attendants literally stumbled on the first cultivation method for champignons de Paris, people continue to try and tame wild delicacies from the fungi world. From scientists cultivating chanterelles in Finland, to oak trees inoculated with truffles in Oregon, mycologists and mushroom lovers are eager to unlock the unique riddle of each species. How lucky we are to have access to this bounty of mushrooms in our own backyard— but only if we can cook them correctly! John Cox is the chef partner at The Bear and Star in Los Olivos. When he isn’t in the kitchen, or at home on his boat in Santa Barbara, he loves traveling the world in search of new culinary experiences. This article first appeared in Edible Monterey Bay in the December 2018 issue and was adapted for Edible Santa Barbara. 46 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
Maitake—Also known as hen of the woods, these mushrooms have been shown to help control diabetes. They are delicious pan or deep fried, although that might not be the optimal technique for maximizing their health benefits. Oyster Mushrooms—When available, buy the pink or yellow. They taste the same, but the colors will impress all your foodie friends. Oyster mushrooms love blue cheese. Try adding some reduced cream with leeks and cambozola cheese (this combination was a Post Ranch classic). Porcini and King Bolete —These mushrooms love foggy forests. They are similar to button mushrooms, but can be identified by their lack of traditional gills. These are some of the firmest mushrooms, and when they are young they are delicious shaved over dishes, used in salads or treated like ceviche as a replacement for fish. Be sure to check for worms before you buy them. Shiitake —These are among the most umami of all mushrooms and are great sliced thinly into a broth (such as miso soup) or sautéed. For a fun spin add some freshly grated ginger, brown sugar and soy sauce then mount with a touch of butter. These soyglazed shiitakes are delicious!
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More awards than any other hotel/resort in the United States
We at San Ysidro Ranch are excited to start a New Year. We look forward to welcoming back all our friends and neighbors. We invite you to join us as we celebrate our reopening. Come enjoy the familiar surroundings of our property as we begin a new chapter. We look forward to welcoming you back soon. Call us at 805-565-1700 for restaurant and accommodation reservations or visit our website at www.sanysidroranch.com
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Wedding Guide A planning guide to help you find the wedding resources you seek in Santa Barbara County.
MIKE L ARSON
Chef Clark Staub and Chef Jill Davie
EdibleSantaBarbara.com WINTER 2019 | 49
The Wedding of
JILL & CLARK PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEFFREY BLOOM
W
hen two chefs get married‌ No assigned seating. No predetermined menu. Food for all! Celebratory! Such was the wedding of Chef Clark Staub and Chef Jill Davie who got married in an outdoor celebration on a sunny Monday afternoon and evening in April. Both Clark and Jill knew that they wanted their wedding at Clark’s restaurant in Los Alamos, Full of Life Flatbread, and they wanted the community to be part of it. Over the years Clark has worked with most of the people in town, and they decided to celebrate the unique nature and talents of the town. Stephen Bedford of Bedford Winery put together a team to slow roast a pig for 22 hours. Throughout the night as the pig roasted, team members would grind dried corn with a hand-cranked grinder into polenta while drinking beer and telling stories. Local resident and urchin diver Stephanie Mutze provided seaweed for wrapping around the pig and uni for the meal. Frank Ostini from Hitching Post 2 was also there with his grill. Neal Malony brought his Pacific
The wedding was held at Full of Life Flatbread in Los Alamos.
50 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA W E D D I N G G U I D E
Wedding cake by Dawn Peters of Decadence Fine Cakes & Confections.
A procession led the guests to Bell’s in the center of Los Alamos for appetizers with a string mariachi band and Mexican dancing horses.
Gold Oysters. And farmer Jacob Grant provided produce which the Flatbread team and guest chefs used to create an impromptu menu of dishes. One chef friend flew in from Italy and assisted in making a pig’s head terrine on the spot. Guests were greeted at the iconic restaurant with local lemonade from Los Olivos Lemons, sparkling wine from Sea Smoke Cellars and a special red wine from Stolpman Vineyards called ‘Love You Bunches.’ Dinner was also accompanied by special wedding white and red cuveé wines blended by legendary vintner Au Bon Climat. A cheese and charcuterie table was created by Starr Cornwall. Bread was from Bob’s Well Bread. Wedding cake and cupcakes were by local resident Dawn Peters of Decadence Fine Cakes & Confections in Buellton. There was also a cotton candy cart created by one of Clark’s longtime former employees, Savannah Starr of Haute Sugar Co. The wedding was held on a Monday as that is typically a day chefs have off. Also, being less busy, it allowed them to have a parade down Bell street with a string mariachi band and Mexican dancing horses. The newlyweds spent their first night at the newly reopened Los Alamos landmark, the Skyview Motel. And the convivial community celebration was captured by local resident and photographer Jeffrey Bloom.
The Marriage Between
HOUSE & HOME S AY ‘I D O ’ TO YO U R F U TU RE H O M E!
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The Wedding of
MADI & MIKE G E O F F A N D LY N D S I P H O T O G R A P H Y
Custom signs added a personal touch.
Above and below: Liza Saragosa of I’ll Have What She’s Having and Becky Wilberding of Becky’s Baking the Goods created a 20-foot cheese, charcuterie and dip wonder of food art for the happy hour buffet.
M
adi and Mike had a clear vision of what they wanted when they started their wedding venue search. They are avid trail runners and love the Santa Barbara hills, so they wanted a venue that highlighted the natural beauty of Santa Barbara. When they came across the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History, they knew right away that this was the perfect place. The setting and all their little special touches represented their vision and who they are as a couple. Their goal was to keep things natural and rustic—the food, the floral arrangements and even the use of bamboo plates, cutlery and recyclable wine cups fit into the plan. They sourced local boutique vendors, met with them and built relationships to create their magical day. The photography was done by Geoff and Lyndsi Photography, a husband-and-wife dynamic duo who worked together to capture every moment of the day. Another husband-and-wife team did their florals—MacKenzie and Sean Curtis of Topa Flora Ojai. The pieces they created added the perfect accent to the wedding and reception.
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Brick Barn Wine Estate offers a stunning backdrop for your unforgettable wedding experience. Nestled within our 35-acre estate vineyard, Brick Barn boasts midcentury design, sweeping mountain views, legacy oak trees and exquisite style. We offer a wide range of locations that can accommodate your most exclusive events both intimate and grand. Enjoy Brick Barn’s beautiful property and award-winning wines on your wedding day.
Brick Barn Wine Estate 795 W Hwy 246 Buellton (805) 686-1208 BrickBarnWineEstate.com
I HEART MY GROOM
SARITA RELIS PHOTOGRAPHY
Catering Connection, Santa Barbara's award-winning wedding caterer, has maintained their reputation for quality food, unique design and unwavering attention to details. Their knowledgeable staff and talented chefs will ensure your day is picture perfect.
Nestled in the rustic hills of Alisos Canyon, Martian Ranch & Vineyard offers the ideal setting for an intimate wedding ceremony and reception. Whether near the pond or under the 300-year-old oak trees, we have a variety of signature locations where you and up to 120 guests can enjoy your day with the sweeping scenic views of the vineyard and canyon. At Martian, you’ll receive a one-of-a-kind experience that will create memories to last for years to come.
Catering Connection
Martian Ranch & Vineyard
512 Laguna Street, Suite A, Santa Barbara 805 566-1822 • CateringConnect.com
9110 Alisos Canyon Rd., Los Alamos 805 344-1804 • MartianVineyard.com
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Above: The beautiful, natural setting for the ceremony. Below: A tempting array of desserts.
Below: Their 15-tier chocolate spice and olive oil citrus naked wedding cake, nestled on an engraved tree stump, was the creative vision of Natalie Manning of My Goodness Bakeshop.
Friends, family and couple’s happy dog were decked out for the ceremony.
Local singer Mike Moody sang throughout the ceremony and happy hour, and Gary Ransom of Ransom Entertainment was their DJ. They wanted to take advantage of all the beauty the museum has to offer so they chose to have a happy hour outside immediately following the ceremony. After the 20-foot cheese and charcuterie buffet, they kept dinner simple choosing a tried and true favorite: Tacos by Alvaro. Friends and family helped out too. The bride’s father and groom built the arbor, Carly Holland created signs and they made candles out of tree branches to accent the tables. Family and friends added the rest of the decorative touches. Jaime Mangone of LuJane Events tied all the moving pieces together in the final days leading up to their special day.
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Flowers by MacKenzie and Sean Curtis of Topa Flora Ojai.
Imagine an enchanted locale where nature provides a swoon-worthy setting for any nuptial or cowgirl-chic wedding. The elegant yet rustic barn-meets-ballroom setting at Alisal sets the stage for celebration you will never forget. We will consult with our and your wedding planner to finalize very detail—from the perfect menu to wine, flowers, photography, cake, table linens and spa services.
Alisal River Terrace 150 Alisal Rd., Solvang catering@alisal.com 805 686-7619 • Alisal.com
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Take time for self care and treat your wedding party to a calming and luxurious CBD Bath Bomb massage before the big day.
Making Your Wedding Day the Perfect Day. Full-Service Coordination & Catering.
Life Elements
Rincon Events
805 423-6529 • LifeElements.com
805 566-9933 • EventsByRincon.com
Offering an extensive repertoire to enhance the emotion and spirit of your special day.
Botanicals from wine, made fresh in Santa Barbara. Host a scent bar at your shower, bachelorette party or wedding. Create custom scent products for gifts and wedding favors.
Santa Barbara String Quartet
The Grapeseed Company
805 570-8956 • SantaBarbaraQuartet.com
805-318 1486 • TheGrapeseedCompany.com
The Edible Santa Barbara Wedding Guide
A special advertising feature designed to showcase local businesses providing wedding services that align with our mission. We are excited to have partnered with Santa Barbara Wedding Style for a second year in a row to curate our wedding issue. Since 2001 the Santa Barbara Wedding Style planning resource and blog has celebrated the phenomenal talent and spectacular events unique to our coastal dreamscape. They give couples resources for planning their wedding in Santa Barbara by delivering a seamless blend of curated and comprehensive digital coverage, where each detail is considered. Readers receive location and venue options, fashion, jewelry, beauty, cakes, flowers, stationery, registry, design and local to-do ideas. Visit SantaBarbaraWedding.com to find inspiration, trends, giveaways and insider tips about Santa Barbara weddings. For more resources and additional details on these advertisers, visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com/weddings. To be considered for inclusion in our next edition, contact Katie Hershfelt at 805 722-5324 or Katie@ediblesantabarbara.com.
#LoyalToLocal 56 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA W E D D I N G G U I D E
EdibleSantaBarbara.com WINTER 2019 | 57
Getting Wild
Baking with Natural Sourdough by Benjamin York PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSHUA CURRY
A
s we chatted at the window counter in his cozy The Baker’s Table in Santa Ynez. Montecito bakery, Bree’osh, owner and baker Pierre Pierre and his wife, Nelly, landed in Santa Barbara in 2015 Mousseau suddenly leapt up and said, “Hold on, after an eight-month search for a storefront. After working let me show you something.” He returned displaying a cellas a project manager in HSPC bank in France for 10 years, phone photo of his 2-year-old sourdough starter, the microbial Pierre switched gears in 2012 and enrolled in the Ferrandi powerhouse that leavens all of his products. The starter was culinary school in Paris. He had the urge to bring sourdough rippling with bubbles and all but frothing through the phone into the world of viennoiserie, the category of leavened pastries screen. Pierre smiled, “It looks that encompasses croissants and alive, no?” “Bread is different every day, it’s a challenge brioche. For 4,000 years until the “I was sure that sourdough every day, it’s a puzzle. But it’s rewarding. invention of dry active yeast made the difference, in terms It’s super easy but yet it’s the most difficult of both taste and shelf life,” he during World War II, people baked bread with wild yeast said. “Plus, it is all-natural, no thing you’ll do. It’s got these dichotomies and lactobacillus bacteria—the preservatives, no additives. It was that make it fun.” — Amy Dixon yeast providing carbon dioxide the way, the only way to make good and leavening and the bacteria things.” contributing flavor. While commercial yeast dominated the Pierre is a renegade in this respect. Hardly anyone in France latter half of the 20th century, wild or natural sourdough is uses sourdough in viennoiserie, but at Bree’osh everything is experiencing a comeback. Bread was the first “processed food” leavened by his 2-year-old starter. It took nearly two months ever created, but natural sourdough is the complete antithesis and six types of flour to come up with the final formula for his of modern factory bread. Wild sourdough has a mind (well, sourdough brioche. Pierre took a chance when he decided to use billions of minds) of its own, and it takes the knowledge of a sourdough in the world of pastry, but the risk has paid off. “I’m scientist and hands of an artisan to craft sourdough successfully. really happy because my customers can taste the difference, and it means that my dream is understood here.” Luckily in Santa Barbara County we have a number of bakeries that are producing wonderful artisan sourdough While the early-morning hours can be brutal (he wakes creations. I contacted two of them to find out more—Pierre up as early as 1:30am) Pierre believes the most difficult part Mousseau of Bree’osh Café in Montecito and Amy Dixon of about baking bread is maintaining the quality and consistency,
Opposite: Nelly and Pierre Mousseau of Bree’osh in Montecito.
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Amy Dixon of The Baker’s Table in Santa Ynez.
something that can be challenging when working with wild yeast. “It’s no big deal to do one product one time and do it well; it’s about doing it every day. Every day is a new day and your customer judges you every day.” Yet it is this complexity of wild yeast baking that draws Pierre to the craft. “What I love with bread is that you can give these same three ingredients (flour, water, salt) to 10 different bakers and they will give you 10 different breads. It’s all about the baker, the feeling that you have with the dough, how you handle it. You need to take care of the dough, you need to live with your dough.” Like Pierre, Amy Dixon believes that maintaining consistency is one of the hardest yet most rewarding aspects of her profession. “Bread is different every day, it’s a challenge every day, it’s a puzzle. But it’s rewarding. It’s super easy but yet it’s the most difficult thing you’ll do. It’s got these dichotomies that make it fun. I love working with my hands. There are so many factors and it’s so scientific, but it’s fun to mess around with that and figure out what those variables are.” Amy trained under acclaimed bread guru Peter Reinhart at the California Culinary Academy, where she graduated from her internship in wild yeast baking in 1997. After preparing desserts
in San Francisco restaurants, she moved to Santa Ynez to raise her family, opening The Baker’s Table in 2012 to a receptive audience in Santa Barbara County. “I think people have become more aware of sourdough. It’s definitely a niche; people like it but it’s not as much of a fad down here as it is up in San Francisco. People buy my bread because it’s good solid bread.” Amy has maintained her starter since 2012, and like Pierre’s it is seething with microbial activity. It smells distinctly like apple cider vinegar with just a faint hint of alcohol—a sign that the yeast inside is fermenting with reckless abandon. Bakers control the sourness in their finished products by adjusting the length of fermentation (the first rise) and proofing (the last rise) before baking. Both Pierre and Amy opt for a cold proof in the refrigerator, which develops a more complex flavor and contributes a slight tang in their brioches and boules. Both bakers understand their grasp of sourdough science is for naught if the customer is dissatisfied. Fortunately, they have also mastered the art of hospitality. “It’s kind of like the TV show ‘Cheers’ in here,” said Amy. “I know almost all of my customers and they all know each other as well. They come in, they’re happy and I get to feed them.”
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Looking for artisan bakers who use natural sourdough? Here’s a list of the ones we found in Santa Barbara County—some have online shops, too. The Baker’s Table 3563 Numancia St., Santa Ynez For more info, visit TheBakers-Table.com.
The Brasserie at Third Window Brewing Bread available for purchase at the Brasserie counter. For more info, visit ThirdWindowBrewing.com.
Barbareño Bread available for purchase at restaurant. Visit Barbareno.com or call 805 963-9591 for details.
Bettina Bread available for purchase at restaurant. Visit BettinaPizzeria.com or call 805 770-2383 for details.
Bob’s Well Bread Bakery 550 Bell St., Los Alamos For more info and to order online, visit BobsWellBread.com.
Bree’osh Artisan Bakery 1150 Coast Village Rd., Montecito For more info and to order online, visit Breeosh.com.
Helena Avenue Bakery 131 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara For more info, visit HelenaAvenueBakery.com.
Piedrasassi Bread available at tasting room in Lompoc and farmers markets. For more info, visit Piedrasassi.com/ TheBread.
Riviera Bread Visit RivieraBread.com for more info.
Three Flies on a Knife Visit @threefliesonaknife on Instagram for more info.
Naturally leavened sourdough bread is an inherently magical product. “The whole is greater than the sum of its parts,” as Amy so aptly put it. Baking with wild yeast makes the process even more ethereal, as the thing that differentiates bread from an equivalent mass of flour and water exists simply in the air around us. Bakers like Pierre and Amy never see the microbes that make their breads so special, yet both have successfully corralled these single-celled fermentation machines to provide Santa Barbara with authentic and delicious sourdough products. Benjamin York is a passionate runner, baker and native of Santa Barbara now in his first year of medical school at Tufts University in Boston. He has a 2-year-old sourdough starter named Winston, which has adjusted nicely to life in Boston. 62 | EDIBLE EDIBLESANTA SANTA BARBARA BARBARA WINTER WINTER 2019 2019
“Hippest tasting room ever? Babcock’s hangar-sized retro-rock-and-roll venue…Best of all for fans: The Pinots & Chardonnays.” –Food & Wine Magazine 5175 HWY 246 STA RITA HILLS • BABCOCKWINERY.COM
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Jetsetter of the Vines
A day in the life of Winemaster Randy Ullom by Sonja Magdevski PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRAN COLLIN
R
umor had it that Randy Ullom visited each vineyard for Kendall-Jackson Wines twice a week, each week, during the peak grape harvest months from August to November. Impossible, I thought. I was riveted. Plus, I heard through the grapevine that he loves Los Alamos, where a number of Jackson Family Wines’ vineyards are planted. What? Ullom in my town twice a week and I had yet to meet the legend? This had to change. Using my super sleuth journalistic techniques, I asked a buddy for an introduction and sent Ullom an email. I don’t remember my exact words, though I am sure it went something like this. Dear Randy, We should get together and talk shop next time you are in town. You know, one winemaker to another. I don’t actually believe you can accomplish all that I hear you accomplish, so prove it. Respectfully, Sonja Ullom accepted my challenge and met me in Los Alamos on Thursday, September 20, at 11:30am. He had flown in from Santa Rosa that morning, picked up a rental car in Santa 64 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
Maria and cruised down to Los Alamos to meet with Vineyard Manager Bart Haycraft, who oversees the Los Alamos and Sta. Rita Hills vineyard holdings for Jackson Family Wines (JFW). “Bart is sharp as a tack,” Ullom said. “He is the coolest guy and the smartest vineyard manager I have ever known.” They toured the vineyards west of Los Alamos before Ullom came to pick me up. When I jumped in his car, he had two cell phones on the center console—a flip phone for voice calls and a smart phone for emails. He was wearing a pale pink dress shirt, blue jeans and cowboy boots with a big, welcoming smile to tie it all together. At that moment I realized I was star struck. Meeting Ullom is like meeting the Clint Eastwood of winemaking. Both are dedicated veterans to their craft. Both approach their work in a determined and economical manner mindful of all the moving parts and enormous responsibilities at play. And although I can only vouch for Ullom, they seem to share a wild twinkle in their eyes, the kind that shines from experience, having seen it all in one form or another. The 2018 vintage is Ullom’s 26th harvest with Jackson Family Wines. Founder Jess Jackson lured him away from his previous job at DeLoach Vineyards by promising him he could oversee vineyards in Chile, where Ullom wanted to retire one day. “They have great skiing there,” he told me. Ullom got to
travel to Chile and all over the world, establishing properties there and in Argentina, Australia, France and Italy before becoming winemaster for Kendall-Jackson. Jess Jackson also tasked Ullom with producing the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay with 100% Chardonnay grapes—nothing else. When he started it was 98% Chardonnay, with a touch of Gewürztraminer and Viognier added for aromatic impact. “Ever since it has been a family rule that we are not allowed to blend anything else besides Chardonnay and the wine can only be made with grapes grown in coastal areas,” Ullom said. By planting clonal variations of Chardonnay in unique areas, Ullom has been able to achieve the same zest while adhering to his mission. On any given day during harvest you will find Ullom on a plane or in a car across a swatch of central and northern California checking on flavor development imperative to their coveted template. He oversees 12,800 acres each week from Santa Barbara to Mendocino counties, walking the vine rows, tasting fruit and checking maturity progress in each one before driving or flying off to the next vineyard. During our afternoon Ullom had a 2pm deadline to be in Santa Maria to catch the plane to visit ranches in Monterey, Salinas and Soledad and start all over again in a new vineyard zone. This would be his second trip to Los Alamos this week. Each day is a different route, be it Lakeport, Napa, Sonoma or Russian River, depending on the current hot spots of the day. Harvest generally starts in Lake County with Sauvignon Blanc, which Ullom says has held true every year since he started. On its heels will be Pinot Noir from Santa Maria Valley, then Sauvignon Blanc from Mendocino, then soon after starts Chardonnay from Mendocino. Chardonnay from Los Alamos and Santa Maria start in October and harvest generally ends in November with Chardonnay from Monterrey County. As we gently wind our way through discretely hidden vineyards growing in plain sight all along the 101 freeway, I am continually struck by not only the scope but also the intricacy of our work that Ullom regularly navigates. Does anything make him nervous? I ask. No, he says, he has a great team in place, which is critically important. Years ago their pre-harvest meetings would last two to four days. Now they last two to four hours. Does he ever get overwhelmed? Not usually, he answers, popping a Chardonnay grape in his mouth. Does he ever get tired of tasting grapes? Never. Is Chardonnay his favorite varietal? Yes, on account of its complexity. “There is so much to it because of all the different areas we work with,” Ullom said. Santa Barbara County vineyards make up about a third of Kendall-Jackson’s Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, which has been the number one selling Chardonnay in the United States for the past 25 years. These are meaningful numbers in a world of wine. To give you a reference point, I am responsible for overseeing 3,500 cases of wine for the 2018 vintage among three different wineries. I will tend to 140 barrels. Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay alone will be fermented and aged in approximately 120,000 barrels this year.
Ullom will have harvested 55,000 tons of grapes from Chardonnay to Cabernet Sauvignon and almost everything in between. I will have harvested 65 tons. Ullom visits each vineyard twice a week. I visit once a week. Twice a week would be a luxury.
Q&A
Sonja Magdevski: Why is it so important to visit each vineyard so often? Randy Ullom: Things change so dramatically. Also sometimes you can’t get everything done in just that one day. So you need two. We are really picking everything by flavor and those things can change all of the sudden. It’s not there yet, it’s not there, it’s not there, and then BINGO—there it is! You can do your best to guestimate, but why not do it twice if you can? When you started, Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay was 800,000 cases and now it’s 2.5 million cases. Have you felt the growth? No, because we have done it in a really nice way. As we have grown we have planted vineyards. “It’s all about the source,” Jess would say; 85% of the Chardonnay we use is our own. That is a lot of grapes. We have grown in a way that a lot of people don’t believe. They think we have these gigantic tanks and we blend everything together and ferment everything together, which we never, ever do. We keep everything separate. We keep track individually of all the lots, all the blocks with different clones and rootstocks. Just for chardonnay we will have 800 to 1,000 lots that we will then taste and blend. For all 120,000 barrels of Chardonnay? Just as every one of your barrels is special to you, every one of our barrels is special to the team and me. At the end of the day, within each lot we track everything about each barrel. Whether it is American or French oak, the forest where it was grown, the tightness of the grain—we track all of that. We get right down to the barrel for the appellation wines and the vineyard-designated wines. What are the percentages of the grapes from the various counties that comprise Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay? 50% from Monterey, 35–40% from Santa Barbara County and 10–15% from the North Coast and Mendocino, mostly. This helps with our flavor profiles. I know you can get these flavors everywhere but there is a bell curve when you taste hundreds of these wines. The northern part of Mendocino gives you crisp green apple. Russian River is ripe apple. Carneros is pear and pear oil and the viscosity you get there. Monterey is citrine lemon and lime tones, and then this neck of woods here in Los Alamos and Santa Maria is full-on tropical. This is how it was in the very beginning when Jess started this. Grapes from the Tepusquet bench with Cambria and Byron were in these blends 35 years ago, as well as many ranches in Monterey where we still get grapes from today. We try to keep those ratios the same year after year for consistency. EdibleSantaBarbara.com WINTER 2019 | 65
How important is Santa Barbara County to Jackson Family Wines (JFW)?
How do you feel about 25 years as the top-selling Chardonnay?
It is very important. This is just an opinion, though we have felt there hasn’t been enough of an effort to get Santa Barbara on the world map. We want it to be bigger. We have a huge push ourselves through JFW, with all of our different brands located here, to get it going even more than it is. We are invested heavily down here. We have the biggest chunk of the Santa Maria bench that we share with Bien Nacido and we own the original Tepusquet vineyard, which is the anchor for KendallJackson. In Los Alamos we have five separate ranches, including Bar-M, Neely, Mission Trails, Mission Hills, Mission Peak, not to mention Geoffrey’s and Sainz-Lar. Then in the Sta. Rita hills we have a beautiful new ranch called Perilune.
We are hoping to stay there. With the way we do things, we should.
I was actually surprised that the Sta. Rita Hills ranch was so late in coming. I think it was just waiting for the right opportunity. La Crema likes to make specific varietal wines and the last five years we purchased some brands that are smaller and a handful had already been making wines from the Sta. Rita Hills, so for the our long-term vision we thought it would be better do something there. What’s the most exciting aspect of this job for you? Right now when we get to spend every single day outside trying to determine when to pick. I am the leader of the pack and there are a handful of guys and gals that work with me. So while I am here twice a week, my team is in here ever day monitoring alongside me and we are all very tight. Each person has his or her area and varietal. You were here on Monday and the fruit was not ready. Let’s say today it is ready, so you call a harvest pick for Monday. Does anyone ever tell you no? No, everyone is always ready to start. I am the one who is always saying “Let’s wait a minute, slow down. If you think it is ready, wait a day. Let’s not be in a rush here.” You are the final arbiter of it all?
Yes, absolutely. Are you surprised you get to do this job? It is hard to believe—I am one of the luckiest guys in the world. I am a very lucky person because it is truly cooler than cool and it is just fun. It is hardly work, but don’t tell anyone that. There are some tough times every now and then, of course, though Jess always stressed the importance of taking the high road for quality, quality, quality. That continues today with Barbara Banke and the family. Jess would make decisions for 100–200 years in the future. We are all blessed to have that core value and vision as everything is done for a long-term plan. That is not what most corporations are about today as they tend to only look 90 days out to get the numbers to look good and damn everything else. So this is pretty neat and a very, very special environment.
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What has taught you the most about winemaking? A lot of experience, a lot of people and having the opportunity to do it all. JFW is on the leading edge of new technologies in winery and vineyard investment. We are very proactive in developing new technologies from scratch, like sanitizing tanks with light for instance, or a test for super fast Brettanomyces analysis. We created that whole thing. That is fun. We are again lucky as we are very innovative as a company and support the structures to do so. What do you think has changed the most during your time in winemaking? Viticulture changes are many, with mechanization and tighter vineyards spacing, though I get a kick out of the enological side. Thirty years ago or so there was a big move to stainless steel tanks and bladder presses as people were moving away from basket presses and cement tanks. They thought that stuff was lousy. Now it is flipped to say we need these things and people are falling in love with cement tanks with these cute little cement eggs that are really cool. We get to play around with a few. If you are trying to create a round mouth-filling Chardonnay with no oak, those eggs are like a barrel. We like the barrels ourselves and we are committed to them because when you ferment in a barrel you are filling out that mid-palate, which you can never get in a stainless tank, and then the lees stirring in that fermentation vessel of 60 gallons. With a cement egg it is kind of like a big barrel and it does the same thing for building out that mid-palate. We have done it with some varietals and we also have some dry Riesling for the first time that we bottled using mostly the egg. It is pretty cool! It is not going to pay a lot of bills but it is fun for the tasting room. What do you see for JFW and for yourself in the next 25 years? Our big mission now is to retool some of our vineyards and do as much redevelopment as we can. Some vineyards are 43 years old, like the Camelot vineyard in Santa Maria. To be precise it’s my little baby, still on its own roots. We have been replanting that vineyard and we have saved two acres for heritage blocks with its oily rich lush sensations there. Our team picked their favorite vines from their favorite blocks and JFW took those vines and sent them to Davis to be cleaned up. We will replant several of the blocks with the original vines to keep the legacy going. Our other mission is to help Santa Barbara get the recognition it deserves. This area is critically important to us. Sonja Magdevski is winemaker/owner of Casa Dumetz Wines, Clementine Carter and The Feminist Party wine brands and spends a lot of time in her tasting room in Los Alamos when she isn’t at the winery or investigating her next story.
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Comfort Food by Pascale Beale
I
n his book A Platter of Figs and Other Recipes, David Tanis A series of images came to mind, all linked, oddly, to prefaces the recipes in a chapter entitled “North African walks and the meals that followed. As a child, growing up in Comfort Food” with this passage: London, my family had a penchant for taking long walks across Hampstead Heath, often in bitter, damp weather. After an hour “What a strange idea: ‘comfort food.’ Isn’t every food comforting or two we would adjourn to Louis’s bakery, where we’d slough in its own way! Why are certain foods disqualified? Can’t fancy food off our steaming coats, rubbing our chapped hands together be soothing in the same way as granny food? Must it always be about to get circulation going, and order lashings of tea, cream-filled loaded memories, like Proust’s madeleine? Or can it be merely quirky, meringues and cake. like M.F.K. Fisher’s tangerine ritual: she dried them on a radiator, then cooled them on her Paris windowsill… Comfort food —food On other occasions we’d play, with two large teams of friends, that reassures—is different things to different people.” an elaborate game of hide and seek in Highgate Cemetery between the Victorian monuments Tanis’s menu, which includes a carrot and coriander salad and All of which leads me back to the notion and the graves of Karl Marx and George Eliot in freezing fog. chicken tagine, draws an unexpected that comfort food is more about the Afterwards we would pile into the savory parallel to the very foods I cars, scurry home, pull off layer people you shared that dish with, and call comfort food, namely a carrot after layer of coats and sweaters, toe soup and roast chicken with assorted the environment that enveloped you. off muddy boots and all sit down trimmings. The two sets of very to a giant nosh-up of roast chicken, similar ingredients produce two spuds and vegetables. different flavor profiles, each conjuring up its own emotional response. My family in France was no different when it came to walks followed by food, in clement weather or foul. We hiked up I surmised, after reading this and conducting a little survey, mountains so that we could eat a picnic sitting on top with a that in fact all food is emotional, to a greater or lesser extent, baguette, fromage, jambon in hand; we’d tromp though the snow, eliciting comfort from one person but not necessarily from all. freeze our toes only to rush back, thaw out and truly savor my My quick, unscientific survey consisted of a one-question grandmother’s hachis parmentier (French shepherd’s pie). We’d email to assorted friends: “If I say ‘comfort food,’ I wrote, ‘what walk through alpine valleys, pink cheeked, our feet crunching on is the first thing that comes to mind?’” It produced replies that I frost-covered lanes, only to return, peel off our winter garments, had anticipated: something starchy, rib-sticking or sweet. Soups and delight in the ooey-gooey running cheese that melted in were high on the list, from matzoh ball to chowder. Mashed golden puddles off the raclette machine. potatoes appeared to be the firm favorite, and stews and roast An obvious theme emerged as I circumnavigated the path chicken were mentioned by many, but so too were porridge, along the bluff. For me the notion of comfort food meant walks, French fries, toast crusts, perfectly ripe peaches, a basket of figs, weather cold enough to require a jacket, followed by nourishing cake and a cup of tea. food. The mild climate in Southern California has made me I decided to go for a walk to ponder this further. I often do this wistful for those crisp mornings where a trace of your breath when I write; it helps me clarify my thoughts and pull the thread lingers in the air. I realized that I missed frosty days and pulling of my narrative together. It was a beautifully crisp, cool morning, on warm sweaters, curling up by a fire to read a book, thawing one that necessitated a jacket (more on this in a moment) and light out with a glass of spiced, mulled wine or warm apple cider after scarf. My dog jumped at the chance to romp around the bluffs as running errands outdoors. I mentioned my winter musings to a I meandered through the trees overlooking the ocean. Thin wisps friend in London. of clouds drifted on the horizon, and a brave paddleboarder glided “Are you completely bloody mad?” she said. “You really want across the silken sea below us. I thought about comfort, the food related to it and what it meant to me. to be constantly damp, bone-chillingly cold, surrounded by a
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JOSHUA CURRY
Mashed Spuds with Crème Fraîche
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Carrot and Leek Soup with Zesty Shallots My lovely mum made fresh soup almost every day when I was a little girl. We delighted in those big batches of puréed vegetable soups and mopped up the last remnants in our bowls with big chunks of bread. I have been a big fan of soups ever since. One of my favorites was, and is to this day, carrot soup. This version has leeks in it, which add a silky texture and deepen the sweetness of the carrots. I like to make this if the weather is chilly or perhaps it’s been gray outside for weeks. This soup brings a ray of sunshine and warmth into the kitchen, and warms your tummy. Serves 8 people Olive oil 3 – 4 leeks, halved lengthwise, rinsed clean and finely sliced 1 large yellow onion, peeled, halved and thinly sliced 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves 21 ⁄ 2 pounds carrots, peeled and sliced 1
⁄ 2 teaspoon of salt
8–10 grinds fresh black pepper 8 cups vegetable stock 6 shallots, peeled and sliced 2 tablespoons chives, finely chopped
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Zest and juice of 1 lemon
sniffling populace?” Well, when you look at it that way, perhaps not. All of which leads me back to the notion that comfort food is more about the people you shared that dish with, and the environment that enveloped you. The comfort we find in these familiar dishes is like watching a sepia-colored home movie. We may laugh out loud, reliving the antics on the flickering screen, whilst a bystander would be bemused. Comfort food is personal, so personal it can be a little like marmite (a yeast spread from Britain). If you grew up with it, marmite on toast is pretty fantastic; if you didn’t, it can be repellent. Each of us has our own comfort foods that are uniquely satisfying. While I may not rush at a plate piled high with kidneys on toast, I know those who would. The common denominator is the visceral satisfaction and pleasure we all derive from our particular comfort food, and the ability to share it. As acclaimed chef Heston Blumenthal said, “To me, food is as much about the moment, the occasion, the location and the company as it is about the taste.” 70 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
Heat olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the leeks, onion and thyme and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are soft and lightly browned, 8–10 minutes. Add the carrots, salt and pepper and cook for 5 minutes. Stir occasionally to ensure that the vegetables do not stick. Add the vegetable stock, reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the carrots are soft. Remove from the heat and purée the soup in batches in a food processor or blender or with an immersion blender until smooth. Return the puréed soup to the saucepan and keep warm until ready to serve. Just before serving, prepare the shallots. Warm a little olive oil in a small saucepan or skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and sauté until golden brown. Add the chives, lemon zest and juice, and cook for 30 seconds more. Top each bowl of soup with a spoonful of the shallot mixture.
Roast Chicken There are few dishes that evoke comfort like roast chicken and mashed potatoes. Is it something about the golden skin, the succulent aroma that permeates the kitchen as it sizzles in the oven? Or the cloudlike, buttery, soft mounds of creamy spuds? My grandmother made mashed potatoes with obscene amounts of butter and crème fraîche. It was like diving into a decadent, edible, cozy blanket, the taste so good it enveloped you. I rarely make mashed potatoes now. But when I make this combination, it always puts a smile on my face and makes me think of her. Serves 8 people Olive oil Leaves from 6 sprigs thyme, finely chopped 1 bunch chives, finely chopped 1 small bunch parsley, finely chopped Leaves from 6 sprigs oregano, finely chopped Zest of 2 lemons, then quarter the zested lemons and set aside 2 organic chickens (3½–4 pounds each) 2 large yellow onions, peeled and thinly sliced Salt Pepper
Preheat oven to 400°. Pour 3 tablespoons olive oil into a small bowl. Add the thyme, chives, parsley, oregano and lemon zest. Combine well to form a thick herb mixture. Using a small spoon (which you slip under the skin of the chickens from the neck end), carefully spoon a little of the herb mixture under all of the skin, between and skin and the breast meat. Do this carefully so as not to break the skin. Pour a little olive oil into a large roasting pan and scatter the sliced onions in the pan. Place the chickens on top of the onions and rub the outside of the chickens with a little olive oil. Salt the inside and outside of the chickens. Place 4 lemon quarters in each chicken cavity. Add 7–8 grinds of fresh black pepper over the birds. Roast in the middle of the oven for 15 minutes and then lower the temperature to 375° and roast for a further 1 hour to 1 hour, 15 minutes, turning the chickens once or twice so that all sides are evenly browned. When the chickens are cooked, remove them from the roasting pan and set aside to rest before carving, loosely covered with foil.
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Cut the chickens and serve on hot plates with the onions from the roasting pan, the root vegetables and mashed potatoes.
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JOSHUA CURRY
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Roasted Root Vegetables Winter is root vegetable season. I like to think of it as the time when the earth digs deep, searching for nourishment and, as a result of all that hard work, produces delicious vegetables, rich in minerals and with a wonderful array of flavors. My current favorites, parsnips, are delicious when roasted as they tend to caramelize on the outside but remain tender on the inside. They are also versatile. They add an extra dimension pureéd with potatoes; added in soups they bring an extra earthiness in flavor and texture to the mixture; and in a ragout of vegetables they will enhance the complexity of the dish. Serve this alongside the roasted chicken and it is a scrumptious way to showcase one of the season’s most delicious—if somewhat overlooked—vegetables. Makes 8 servings as a large side dish 3 large parsnips, peeled, quartered and then cut into 3-inchlong strips 1 butternut squash, halved, peeled, seeded and cut into pieces the size of the parsnip strips 1 pound carrots, peeled, quartered and then and cut in half 2–3 red onions, peeled and cut into eighths 10–12 shallots, peeled and cut into quarters 2-inch piece of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
Pass the potatoes through a ricer and return them to the saucepan. Add the butter, milk and crème fraîche and stir until fully incorporated and the potatoes are fluffy and creamy. Season to taste. Serve immediately.
Apple Crumble I cannot think about winter without thinking about apple crumble. More particularly, the apple crumbles my mother taught me to make as a child in London. The recipe was handed down to her by my father’s mother, Ilse. If ever there was a dish to warm you up on a winter’s day this is it. In those days we would go for great long walks across London’s parks, returning home with chilled fingers and toes and everything else in between. A hot cup of tea and apple crumble would instantly thaw us out and we would delight in the crumble’s spices and buttery crust. Coastal California may not be as cold or damp, but the pleasure we derive from this dessert is undiminished. Makes 8 servings
FOR THE APPLES 6– 8 large apples, peeled, cored and chopped into 1-inch pieces Zest and juice of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1
⁄ 3 cup raisins
1
⁄ 4 cup sugar
1
⁄ 3 cup water
Olive oil 1 tablespoon herbes de Provence 5–6 sprigs fresh thyme 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt Freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE CRUMBLE 10 ounces unbleached all-purpose flour 9 ounces butter, cut into little pieces 1
Preheat oven to 400°. Place all the prepared vegetables on a baking sheet. Pour the olive oil over the vegetables and sprinkle them with the herbes de Provence, fresh thyme, the sea salt and some black pepper. Toss all the vegetables so that they are well coated. Roast the vegetables for 1 hour, turning the vegetables once or twice so that they do not stick to the pan.
Mashed Spuds with Crème Fraîche Makes 8 servings 2 pounds Yukon Gold or russet potatoes, peeled and cubed Coarse sea salt 7 ounces butter, softened 1 cup milk 4 ounces crème fraîche
Place the potatoes in a large saucepan of salted, cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a strong simmer. Cook the potatoes until they are fork tender. Drain the potatoes, return them to the saucepan and let them release their steam for 1–2 minutes. Transfer them to a large bowl.
⁄ 3 cup sugar
Preheat oven to 400°. Place all the apple ingredients in a deep baking dish (at least 1½ inches deep and 9–10 inches in diameter) and toss to combine them well. To make the crumble, place the flour in a large bowl. Add 8 ounces of the butter and mix it with the flour, using the tips of your fingers, until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Don’t worry if you have little lumps of butter left—it should look like that! Add the sugar and mix to combine. Cover the apples with the crumble mixture. Sprinkle a little extra cinnamon and sugar over the crumble. Dot the surface with the remaining butter. Bake in the center of the oven for 40 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve with vanilla ice cream or a dollop of crème fraîche—or both! Pascale Beale grew up in England and France surrounded by a family that has always been passionate about food, wine and the arts. She was taught to cook by her French mother and grandmother. She is the author of The Menu for All Seasons, Salade, Les Fruits and Les Legumes. Visit her website and blog: The Market Table at PascalesKitchen.com.
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WW IN I NTTEERR EED DII B L EE EEVVEENNT TS S F R I D AY
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The Crêpe Escape
Sourdough Bread Baking Class
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Estate-Grown Sparkling Flight At Sanford Winery & Tasting Room, 1114 State St., Santa Barbara
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Noon–4pm, Martian Ranch & Vineyard, 9110 Alisos Canyon Rd., Los Alamos
8:30am–12:30pm at Bettina, 1014 Coast Village Rd., Santa Barbara
Add some sparkle to your holiday season! Join us at our Downtown Santa Barbara Tasting Room for a tasting of our estategrown sparkling collection. $20/pp. More info at SanfordWinery.com.
Learn to make authentic crepes from our in-house French Chef Maryvonne. She will teach a class and you will get to enjoy crepes as well as Martian wines paired with them. Very limited seating. $80/ pp, $64/pp Wine Club members. Tickets and more info at MartianVineyard.com/ Events.
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Soulfully Syrah
Street Foods and Appetizers of India and Pakistan
Zest It Up: Weaving Workshop
Edible Wine Tasting with Lumen Wines
11am–2pm at Santa Barbara City College Schott Campus, 310 W Padre St., Santa Barbara
4–7pm at Zaca Mesa Winery & Vineyards, 6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos
The Wine Shepherd, 30 E Ortega St, Santa Barbara
Indulge in small bites accompanied by Zaca Mesa wine while you learn how to make a weaving in this beginner’s class. Each attendee will be provided with their own loom and an assortment of fibers will be provided. $65/pp. Tickets at ZacaMesa.com/calendar-of-events.
Join Edible Santa Barbara for a special blind wine tasting led by Will Henry of Lumen Wines. Three wines will be paired with three tapas from Black Sheep. Tickets $40 in advance at EdibleSantaBarbara.com.
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10am–noon at Zaca Mesa Winery & Vineyards, 6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos Join Zaca Mesa’s Winemaker Kristin Bryden and Assistant Winemaker Randy Gardenhire for a private tasting. Taste through a selection of Syrahs. Lunch included. $75/pp; $60/pp Club Members. More info at ZacaMesa.com/ calendar-of-events.
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This class will reveal easy steps to master some sweet and savory street snacks from bhallay (lentil dumplings) in yogurt sauce to aloo channa chaat seasoned with sweet and spicy dressing. $59/pp. Register at SBCC.edu. Edible Event
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Farmers Market Cooking Demos
Saturday Fishermen’s Market
9am, 10am and 11am at the SB Farmers Market, at corner of Cota and Santa Barbara St.
6–11am on City Pier at the Santa Barbara Harbor
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Sponsored by Sansum Clinic, the market will feature live cooking demonstrations by our favorite local chefs and cooks. You’ll learn tips and techniques for preparing healthy, seasonal offerings at the market.
Master the basic fundamentals and science of baking sourdough bread with head baker and owner Brendan Smith. Includes sourdough starter and recipe for Bettina’s sourdough bread. Coffee, light lunch and wine included. $125/pp. Tickets at BettinaPizzeria.com/Events. Edible Event
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A handful of fishermen can be found on the City Pier (opposite Brophy’s) every Saturday selling catch-of-the-day items— with unbeatable prices and unsurpassed freshness and quality. More info at CFSB. Info/Sat.
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Handmade Pizza and Flatbreads
Santa Maria Style BBQ Series
Wine Country Weekend
10am–3pm at Santa Barbara City College Schott Campus, 310 W Padre St., SB
5–7pm at Alisal Ranch, 1054 Alisal Rd., Solvang
Learn to make your own pizza from scratch. Roll, stretch or toss your dough into a thick, thin or pan-style bottom. Each student will make a pizza in class and will take home dough to later share their skills with friends and family. $60/ pp. Register at SBCC.edu.
Every Monday throughout winter, Alisal’s executive chef and barbecue aficionado Anthony Endy will offer a traditional Santa Maria Style BBQ Buffet. In addition to a full bar, the menu includes oak-grilled tri tip and all the fixings. $25/ pp. More info at Alisal.com.
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Taste from 12+ wineries throughout the Santa Ynez Valley anytime during the long weekend. Passport fee includes signature glass, tote bag and passport. Catered small bites at each location on Saturday; transportation options Saturday and Sunday. $55/pp. For a list of participating wineries and to purchase a passport, visit SantaYnezWineCountry.com.
For updates and more details on these and other events, visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com
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Gluten-Free Baking
Solvang Third Wednesday
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14 Valentine’s Day
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3–7pm in Solvang
10am–3pm at Santa Barbara City College Schott Campus, 310 W Padre St, SB
Solvang’s Third Wednesday Wine and Beer Walk includes a ticket to sample two wines at five participating wine—and/or beer—tasting rooms, a specialty logo glass, and a map to help you navigate your way through all of the fun. $20. solvangthirdwednesday.com/ wine-walk
Discover just the right formulas for baking all types of gluten-free treats that will amaze even the staunchest skeptics. Explore techniques and ingredients for creating delicious gluten-free baked goods that look and taste just like their wheatbased counterparts. $55/pp. Register at SBCC.edu.
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FEB 22–MARCH 3
FEBRUARY
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Santa Barbara Restaurant Week
Pintxos: The Extravagant Tapas of Northern Spain
This tasty 10-day event provides an excellent opportunity for locals and visitors to celebrate Santa Barbara’s flourishing culinary scene, and dine at the area’s best establishments for a great price: $25 two-course lunch and $40 three-course dinner. More info at SBRestaurantWeeks.com.
10am–2pm at Santa Barbara City College Schott Campus, 310 W Padre St, Santa Barbara These tasty morsels are packed with Spanish flavor and tradition and will impress you with their diverse and creative use of fresh, seasonal foods. Learn to make these over-the-top little bites. $92/pp. Register at SBCC.edu. F R I D AY – S AT U R D AY
S AT U R D AY
MARCH
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M A R CH
MARCH
MARCH
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15–16
Easy Fermented Vegetables
Taste of Solvang
Barrel Tasting
9–11:30am at Santa Barbara City College Schott Campus, 310 W Padre St, SB
Taste your way through dozens of restaurants, cafés, bakeries and wine and beer tasting rooms while you explore our authentic architecture, thatched-roof cottages, Old-World craftsmanship, traditional windmills and rich Danish heritage. SolvangUSA.com/taste-ofsolvang for tickets and more info.
Martian Ranch & Vineyard, 9110 Alisos Canyon Rd., Los Alamos
Learn how to add probiotics to a wide variety of vegetables, including carrots, onions, beets and green beans. Learn recipes and tricks using fermented vegetables, enjoy a group lunch made with our made-in-class products and finally take home your own creations. $43/pp. Register at SBCC.edu. Edible Event
Taste the next vintage of wines to be bottled. See how they are developing and place your Futures order to ensure you don’t miss out on their release. Call 805 344-1804 to reserve your seat.
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MARCH
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Nibbles & Sips: Pairing Wine and Food
Santa Barbara Beer Garden
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15 & 22 10am–2pm at Santa Barbara City College Schott Campus, 310 W Padre St., SB Refine your tasting skills, get expert wine-pairing advice, prepare delicious appetizers with a chef and build your appreciation of wine and food by sampling your creations with a perfectly paired sip. Must be 21+. $84/pp. Register at SBCC.edu.
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1–4pm at the Santa Barbara Botanic Garden, 1212 Mission Canyon Rd., SB Experience an exquisite afternoon of music, food and one-of-a-kind beers uniquely paired with locations throughout the historic gardens. Supports the Garden’s programs in environmental education, conservation, research and native plant horticulture. More info and tickets at SBBG.org.
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Zest It Up: Watercolor & Wine 4–6pm at Zaca Mesa Winery & Vineyards, 6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos Enjoy Zaca Mesa wine and delicious snacks from Zest It Up, all while painting al fresco. Learn the fundamentals of watercolor as you work with unique painting techniques. Materials supplied. $65/pp. Tickets at ZacaMesa.com/calendar-of-events.
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SA NTA BARBA R A COUNT Y
E AT DRINK LOC AL GUIDE Santa Barbara County has its own unique food tradition and lifestyle. We’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants, bakeries, food producers and specialty retail shops that contribute to the distinctively Santa Barbara experience. From Ballard to Carpinteria, and from catering to wine tasting, our Guide will help you find what you are looking for and more.
Farms & Ranches Jimenez Family Farm 805 688-0597 JimenezFamilyFarm.com Small family-run local farm specializes in sustainably grown food and their famous handmade pies, quiches and small-batch preserves. Visit them at the farmers market to purchase produce, pies, jams and naturally fed and farm-raised rabbit, lamb, pork, goat and poultry.
Winfield Farm 805 686-9312 WinfieldFarm.us Taste the magic of Winfield Mangalitsa! Mangalitsa ground pork (the real hamburger) and hickory smoked bacon are now featured in the Larder Meat Company’s Larder Club meat box, delivered monthly throughout California (sign up at http://www.lardermeatco.com). You can also order through our Mangalitsa Market on the Winfield Farm website—please call first! Follow us on Facebook (WinfieldFarmBuellton), Twitter (@ WinfieldFarm.us) and Instagram (Winfield_Farm).
Food & Restaurants Backyard Bowls 5668 Calle Real, Goleta, 805 770-2730 3849 State St. Santa Barbara, 805 569-0011 331 Motor Way, Santa Barbara, 805 845-5379 BackyardBowls.com Santa Barbara’s most innovative breakfast and lunch spot featuring Acai Bowls and smoothies. They also offer oatmeal, yogurt and more.
Ballard Inn & Gathering Table 2436 Baseline Ave., Ballard, 805 688-7770 BallardInn.com Elegant accommodations, attentive staff and awardwinning cuisine make the Ballard Inn & Gathering Table one of the most sought-after small luxury inns in the Santa Barbara Wine Country.
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Barbareño 205 W. Canon Perdido St., Santa Barbara 805 963-9591 Barbareno.com Offering an approachable take on the fine-dining experience, Barbareño highlights the traditions and specialties of the Central Coast through creative story-driven dishes and ingredients from local farmers. Sit in the main dining room and enjoy the enticing atmosphere of an open kitchen, or outside on the lush patio alongside the Santa Maria grill. Dinner nightly 5–9:30pm; closed Tue.
Bettina Montecito Country Mart 1014 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 770-2383 BettinaPizzeria.com A cozy neighborhood restaurant serving naturally leavened Neapolitan-style pizza made with seasonal California ingredients. Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or just grabbing a spritz at the bar, Bettina is committed to simplicity, community and hospitality that makes guests feel at home. Open Fri through Sun for lunch and nightly 5–10pm.
Bob’s Well Bread 550 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-3000 BobsWellBread.com Making bread the old-fashioned way: handcrafted in small batches with the finest ingredients and baked to perfection in a custom-built stone-deck oven. Drop in to taste what visitors and journalists are raving about as “worth the drive”—signature Pain au Levain, award-winning artisanal breads, croissants and specialty pastries. All-day menu of made-to-order breakfast, lunch and weekly special dishes. Indoor-outdoor picturesque café. Thu–Mon 7am–6pm. Café closes at 3pm. Closed Tue and Wed.
Bossie’s Kitchen 901 N. Milpas St., Santa Barbara, 805 770-1700 BossiesKitchen.com Located in the historic D’Alfonso building with the cow on top, Bossie’s Kitchen offers seasonal farmers market dishes in a casual counter service setting. Chef-wife team Christina Olufson and Lauren Herman’s menu
features garlic and herb-roasted chicken, sandwiches on house-made bread, soups, salads, sides and nightly specials. Open for lunch Tue–Fri 11:30am–3pm, dinner Tue–Sun 5pm–close, brunch Sat–Sun 10am–2:30pm, happy hour weekdays 4:30–6pm. Closed Mon.
Bouchon 9 W. Victoria St., Santa Barbara, 805 730-1160 BouchonSantaBarbara.com Bouchon sources all of its ingredients using an “as-freshand-as-local-as-possible” approach. Experience fine dining, excellent regional wines and relaxed service in a warm, inviting ambience. Private dining in the Cork Room is available for groups of 10–20. Dinner nightly 5–10pm.
Bragg Live Foods Bragg.com Founded in 1912 by Dr. Paul C. Bragg and now run by his daughter Dr. Patricia Bragg in Goleta, Bragg Live Food Products offers organic and natural health products and publishes self-health books. Available locally at Fairview Gardens’ Farm Stand, Lassen’s, Gladden and Sons, Tri-County Produce, Whole Foods Market, Lazy Acres and in the health section of your neighborhood grocery store.
Bree’Osh 1150 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 969-2500 Breeosh.com Bree’Osh is a French artisan bakery café specializing in sweet and savory brioche bread made with traditional sourdough. Featuring local, organic, high-quality ingredients. Open daily 7am–2pm. Serving breakfast and lunch daily 7am–2pm
Ca’ Dario 37 E. Victoria St., Santa Barbara, 805 884-9419 38 W. Victoria St. (inside the Santa Barbara Public Market), 805 884-9419 250 Storke Rd., Goleta, 805 884-9419 CaDario.net Chef Dario Furlati’s flagship eatery offers a fine Italian dining experience featuring authentic recipes made with fresh, local ingredients. Handmade pastas, local seafood, weekly farmers market specials and an extensive Italian wine list. Located in the heart of the
downtown Arts District. Serving lunch and dinner Sun–Thu 11:30am–10pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–10:30pm. Ca'Dario Pizzeria in the Public Market offers a casual, urban atmosphere to enjoy authentic pizzas, salads and appetizers. Open daily 11am–9pm. Ca' Dario Cucina Italiana in Goleta is open Mon–Sat 11am-9pm.
Chocolate Maya 15 W. Gutierrez St., Santa Barbara, 805 965-5956 ChocolateMaya.com Chocolate Maya handmade chocolate confections: a variety of velvety truffles and chocolate-dipped temptations that are made from the highest-quality chocolate (Valrhona, Felchlin, Mesocacao including some small bean-to-bar artisans couverture) fresh local ingredients and some exotic findings from their travels overseas.
The Hitching Post II
Mosaic Locale
406 E. Hwy. 246, Buellton, 805 688-0676 HitchingPost2.com
1131 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 387-2577 MosaicLocale.com
A favorite of locals and visitors since 1986. Serving wood-grilled fare, prepared in the regional barbecue tradition, along with their highly regarded Hitching Post Wines. Casual and relaxed setting.
A local Santa Barbara establishment created by local craft food and drink purveyors Hook & Press Donuts, Buena Onda Empanadas and Draughtsmen Aleworks. Hook & Press Donuts open 8am–2pm Wed–Mon; closed Tue. Buena Onda Empanadas open daily 11:30am–8:30pm. Draughtsmen Aleworks open daily 11:30am–9pm.
Il Fustino 3401 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-3521 38 W. Victoria St. (located inside the Santa Barbara Public Market), 805 845-4995 ilFustino.com
Olive Hill Farm 2901 Grand Ave., Los Olivos, 805 693-0700 OliveHillFarm.com
Corazón Cocina
Il Fustino is Santa Barbara’s first and finest olive oil and vinegar tasting room. Il Fustino purveys only the finest and freshest olive oils, all grown and milled in California. They also provide an unparalleled selection of artisan vinegars.
38 W. Victoria St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-0282 CorazonCocinaSB.com
Lazy Acres
Pico at The General Store
302 Meigs Rd., Santa Barbara, 805 564-4410 LazyAcres.com
458 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1122 LosAlamosGeneralStore.com
Santa Barbara’s best source for wholesome, natural and organic foods and products with real people dedicated to providing unmatched personal service. Mon–Sat 7am–11pm, Sun 7am–10pm.
Pico at the Los Alamos General Store brings a culinary, wine and shopping experience to “Little LA” in the heart of Santa Barbara’s Wine Country. Chef Drew Terp offers a menu of approachable California cuisine sourced from locally-farmed, seasonal ingredients. Open Tue–Thu 3–9pm, Fri–Sat noon–10pm, Sun noon–9pm; Happy Hour 4–5pm.
Located inside the Santa Barbara Public Market, offering homemade, local, unique and fresh cocina Mexicana. Join Chef Ramón Velazquez for fresh ceviches, mouthwatering tacos and homemade agua frescas. Open Mon–Fri 11am–9pm; Sat–Sun 10am–9pm.
The Food Liaison 1033 Casitas Pass Rd., Carpinteria, 805 200-3030 TheFoodLiaison.com Catering. Counter. Classes. Utilizing many locally grown organic ingredients, enjoy daily rotating entrées and soups, seasonal menu and gourmet salad bar. Corporate and event catering since 2013. Sign up for cooking classes online. Lunch counter Mon–Fri 11am–3pm.
Giannfranco’s Trattoria 666 Linden Ave., Carpinteria, 805 684-0720 Giannfrancos.com Experience authentic Italian regional cuisine at this family-owned and family-operated trattoria in downtown Carpinteria. Chef Giovanni prepares each dish from the freshest local and imported foods to offer his creative take on Tuscan grill specialties. Weekday lunch served 11am–3pm. Weekend lunch served noon–3pm. Dinner served 5–9pm; closed Tue.
Here’s the Scoop 1187 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 969-7020 ScoopSB.com Here’s the Scoop is a local, family-owned business that makes traditional Italian gelato flavors like Stracciatella and Pistachio. Their seasonal farmers market sorbets use local, organic farm-fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs. Sorbets are non-dairy, organic and vegan. Mon–Thu 1–9pm, Fri–Sat noon–10pm, Sun noon–9pm.
Hilton Garden Inn and Valle Eatery & Bar 1201 North H. St., Lompoc, 805 735-1880 HGILompoc.com Offering 156 contemporary and spacious rooms, large and elegantly appointed suites, premium fiber Internet access, event space and full service restaurant just steps away from Santa Barbara Wine Country. Local Executive Chef, Conrad Gonzales, combines big city flavors with seasonal local produce and acclaimed wines from local vintners. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Offering a full service bar featuring Santa Barbara County wine and beer from California.
The Little Door SB 129 E. Anapamu St., Santa Barbara, 805 560-8002 TheLittleDoorSB.com Featuring a charming outdoor patio overlooking the Spanish Colonial architecture of the renowned Courthouse. Offers a magical ambiance and sense of communion around the table. Executive chef Oscar Ledesma draws inspiration from the farmers market and French Mediterranean flavors to accentuate his contemporary American fare. Open Wed–Thur 5–10pm, Fri–Sat 5–10:30pm, Sun 11am–3pm; Happy Hour 4:30–6:30pm.
McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams 120 State St., Suite B, Santa Barbara 728 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 324-4402 McConnells.com McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams, founded in Santa Barbara in 1949, is now in its third generation of family ownership. They make their ice creams as they always have: from scratch, using Central Coast, grass-grazed milk, cream and the finest local, sustainable and organic ingredients from partner farms, artisans and purveyors they’ve worked with for decades. No preservatives. No stabilizers. No additives. Ever. A 70-year sweet legacy of keeping it real.
Montecito Country Mart 1016 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 969-9664 MontecitoCountryMart.com The Montecito Country Mart has been renovated and preserved, with its original barbershop, post office, market and old-fashioned toy store, as well as Rori’s Artisanal Creamery, Bettina, Merci, Caffe Luxxe, CO Collections, Kendall Conrad, Little Alex’s, Malia Mills, Hudson Grace, James Perse and Space NK Apothecary. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat–Sun 10am–5pm.
Montecito Village Grocery 1482 E. Valley Rd., Montecito, 805 969-1112 MontecitoGrocery.com Offering local and organic produce, full service butcher and deli, gourmet cheese, chef prepared dishes, amazing wines and craft beers. Great selection of non-dairy, gluten free, vegetarian and vegan products. Convenient parking and friendly staff. Open daily 7am–8pm.
Specializing in local olive oils, flavored oils and balsamic vinegars as well as many locally produced food products. Olive oil and vinegar tastings with fresh local bread available. Open daily 11am–5pm.
Pig & Butter 323 362-6354 PigAndButter.com Pig & Butter focuses on both quality and merging flavors to make unique, delectable dishes. All dishes are crafted with meticulousness and love. Offering catering, chef’s tables and cooking classes.
Plow to Porch 805 895-7171 PlowToPorch.com Plow to Porch Organics is a local organic/pesticide-free produce and grocery delivery service to members who subscribe. They simplify the purchase of local fresh organic produce and other organic, local foods in order to inspire good nutrition, support local farmers, protect the environment and make eating healthy food fun!
Renaud’s Patisserie & Bistro 3315 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 569-2400 1324 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 892-280 1187 Coast Village Rd., Montecito RenaudsBakery.com Renaud’s is a bakery specializing in French pastries and French-style cakes, as well as a bistro offering an extensive menu for breakfast and lunch. Open Mon–Sat 7am–5pm; Sun 7am–3pm.
Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market 805 962-5354 SBFarmersMarket.org
Six markets, six days a week. Schedule on page 71.
Savoy Café & Deli 24 W. Figueroa St., Santa Barbara, 805 962-6611 TheSavoyCafe.com A family owned and operated café featuring scratch cooking. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner for the past 12 years. Award-winning salad bar, bakery, soup, hot and cold prepared foods, coffee and tea bar and excellent selection of wines by the glass. Cozy atmosphere, dog friendly patio. Open Mon–Sat 7am–8:30pm; closed Sun.
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San Ysidro Ranch 900 San Ysidro Ln., Santa Barbara, 805 565-1724 SanYsidroRanch.com Visit the Stonehouse, named one of the 50 Best Restaurants in America by Open Table, or visit Plow & Angel for a comfortable and convivial atmosphere. Reopening March 2019.
Scratch Kitchen 610 N. H St., Lompoc, 805 819-0829 Scratch-Kitchen.com With a wealth of local and seasonal produce and local wines, Scratch Kitchen aims to highlight all the best culinary elements of the Lompoc and Santa Ynez Valleys. Open for lunch and dinner Tue–Sat 11am–9pm, brunch Sun 10am–2pm and Sun dinner 5pm–9pm.
Solvang Olive Company 1578 Mission Dr., Solvang, 805 213-1399 SolvangOliveCo.com
winery in 1990. Andrew and his team look forward to sharing the AMV experience with you at their stunning Estate Winery and Visitor Center along Foxen Canyon Road. Tasting room open daily 10:30am–5:30pm.
Au Bon Climat 813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, 805 963-7999 AuBonClimat.com The tasting room and the Jim Clendenen Wine Library are known for world-class Chardonnays and Pinots. Jim Clendenen has been making wines of vision and character for over 30 years, along with other varietals. Amazing lineup of current releases and library wines available. Tasting room open Mon–Fri noon–6pm, Sat and Sun 11am–6pm.
August Ridge Vineyards 5 E. Figueroa St., Santa Barbara, 805 770-8442 AugustRidge.com
Solvang Olive features locally grown olive oils, fruit and balsamic vinegar and hand-crafted gourmet olives. The Solvang store also carries olive oil beauty products, tableware and cooking ingredients created by Californian artisans. Tasting room open Wed–Thu 10am–4pm, Fri–Sun 9am–5pm.
August Ridge crafts wine that combines the spirit of California with the restrained, classic elegance of wines from northern and central Italy. Distinctive wines from the Paso Robles region to be opened as you gather for a meal, surrounded by friends, family and loved ones. Tasting room open Sun–Mon, Wed–Thu noon–7pm, Fri–Sat noon–8pm. Happy Hour Mon and Wed 3–6pm. Closed Tuesday.
Straus Family Creamery
Babcock Winery & Vineyards
707 776-2887 StrausFamilyCreamery.com
5175 E. Hwy. 246, Lompoc, 805 736-1455 BabcockWinery.com
Founded in 1994, Straus Family Creamery is a missiondriven, family-owned and -operated business dedicated to making premium organic dairy products, with minimal processing.
A passion for revolutionary farming and conservation continue to define this family-owned Sta. Rita Hills winery. Stunning single-vineyard Pinot Noirs are showcased alongside acclaimed Chardonnays and other varietals. Chill in the super soulful tasting room filled with vintage art and eclectic treasures. Tasting room open daily 11am–5:30pm.
Succulent Café Wine Charcuterie 1555 Mission Dr., Solvang, 805 691-9444 SucculentCafe.com Comfort food with a twist, prepared with seasonal and local farm-fresh ingredients. The best charcuterie plates around feature farm-fresh cheese, house-made jam, pickled vegetables, nuts and fruit. Great local wine, craft beer and signature cocktails. Open Mon, Wed–Fri 10am–9pm, Sat–Sun 8:30am–9pm; Happy Hour 3–5pm; Closed Tuesday.
Babi’s Beer Emporium 380 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1911 BabisBeerEmporium.com
The Wine Cask
Great beer. Impeccable selection. Great fun. Adventurous beer drinkers can discover unique, hardto-find craft beers, ciders and special projects—on tap or in bottle. Stay to have a bite from Valle Fresh’s tacos and tapas menu. Thu 4–8pm, Fri–Sat noon–8pm, Sun noon–6pm.
813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, 805 966-9463 WineCask.com
Buttonwood Farm Winery
The Wine Cask Restaurant features the freshest local ingredients, the best wine list in town and seasonal signature cocktails. They offer fine dining in their exquisite Gold Room and casual dining in the courtyard and at their Intermezzo bar. Lunch: Tue–Fri 11:30am– 3pm. Dinner: Tue–Sun from 5:30pm. Last seating at 9pm Sun–Thu and at 10pm Fri–Sat.
Wine & Beer Alma Rosa Winery 250 Industrial Way A, Buellton, 805 688-9092 AlmaRosaWinery.com Alma Rosa wines express the distinctive spirit and character of the soils, sun exposure, fog, cooling winds and over four decades of experience in this beautiful Sta. Rita Hills sub-region of Santa Barbara wine country. Tasting room open Fri–Sun 11am–5:30pm; Mon–Thur noon–5:30pm.
Andrew Murray Vineyards 5249 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos, 805 686-9604 AndrewMurrayVineyards.com Andrew Murray, a grape-growing pioneer and Rhône varietal visionary in Santa Barbara County, founded his
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1500 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang, 805 688-3032 ButtonwoodWinery.com In 1968 Betty Williams came to Buttonwood, creating a life that found expression through a connection with the land. The vineyard now has 33,000 vines with a mix of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Marsanne, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Tasting room open daily 11am–5pm.
Cambria Estate Winery 5475 Chardonnay Ln., Santa Maria, 805 938-7318 CambriaWines.com Family-owned, sustainably farmed estate winery. Visit and experience the flavors of the Santa Maria Bench. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Viognier and Syrah. Open daily 10am–5pm.
Carr Winery 414 N. Salsipuedes St., Santa Barbara 805 965-7985 CarrWinery.com Carr specializes in limited-production wines including Pinot Noir, Syrah, Pinot Gris and Cabernet Franc. Enjoy the ambiance of a working winery while sipping delicious wines on the patio or at the barrel-top bar.
Wine tasting, wine on tap and wines by the glass served daily. Monthly art shows and live music. Daily 11am–9pm, Sun 11am–6pm.
Carr Warehouse 3563 Numancia St., Santa Ynez 805 688-5757 CarrWinery.com Carr Winery’s 3,800-square-foot tasting room and wine warehouse is where all of the Carr Wines are waxed and bottle aged. The tasting room has an open floor plan with a U-shaped bar and booths, perfect for large groups. Enjoy wine tasting and wines by the glass. Daily 11am–6pm.
Casa Dumetz 388 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1900 CasaDumetzWines.com A boutique winery specializing in Rhône varietals crafted with premier Santa Barbara County fruit. Their wines are sold almost exclusively at their tasting room in historic Los Alamos and through their wine club. Open Thu noon–7pm; Fri–Sat 11am–7pm; Sun 11–6pm, Mon noon–4pm. Vineyard tours and barrel sampling available by appointment.
CrossHatch Winery 436 Alisal Rd. (in the windmill), Solvang 805 691-9192 CrosshatchWinery.com Wine tasting and wines by the glass in a historical windmill featuring blends from Santa Barbara County vineyards. Stop by to enjoy the views from the patio or grab a seat at the bar. Only 800 cases produced. Sun– Mon noon–6pm, Thu–Sat noon–7pm.
Dreamcôte 2933 San Marcos Ave., Los Olivos, 805 691-1200 DreamcoteWines.com Dreamcôte strives to produce 600 cases of delicious, fruit-forward wines—fresh and juicy as the day they were picked. The tasting room is casual, fun and all welcoming. Come taste a unique selection of craft wines plus hard apple ciders alongside fun flavored popcorn. Open Thu–Mon 11am–5pm.
Foxen Vineyard & Winery 7200 and 7600 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-4251 FoxenVineyard.com The Foxen Boys’ winery and tasting room features Burgundian and Rhône-style wines. Visit the historic shack “Foxen 7200” for Italian and Bordeaux-style wines. Picnic tables and scenic views at both locations. Open 11am–4pm daily.
Kitá Winery 300 N. 12th St., Unit 1A, Lompoc 805 819-1372 KitaWines.com Established in 2010 as a small, premium wine producer, Kitá’s focus is on respecting the balance of soil, climate, location and taste. The word “Kitá” means “our valley oak” in the Santa Ynez Chumash language of Samala. Open Thu–Fri 2–6pm, Sat noon–6pm and Sun noon–5pm.
Lama Dog 116 Santa Barbara St., Santa Barbara 805 880-3364 LamaDog.com Craft beer taproom and bottle shop located in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone. Open Sun–Wed 11:30am–10pm, Thu 11:30am–11pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–midnight. @lamadog
Longoria Wines 415 E. Chestnut Ave., Lompoc, 866-759-4637 LongoriaWine.com Longoria Wines is a small family-owned winery with over three decades of producing acclaimed artisanal wines from some of the finest vineyards in Santa Barbara County. Enjoy a tasting or a glass of wine in the tasting room or lounge of the restored historic JM Club at their new winery facility in Lompoc, open daily 11am–4:30pm.
Margerum Wine Company 32 El Paseo in the center courtyard, Santa Barbara, 805 845-8435 59 Industrial Way, Buellton, 805 686-8500 MargerumWines.com Located in the historic El Paseo complex, Margerum offers two venues for tasting in Downtown Santa Barbara. Enjoy a tasting (or a glass) of handcrafted, small production Margerum and Barden wines sourced from top vineyards around Santa Barbara County. Open Mon–Wed noon–5pm, Thu–Sun noon–6pm. Margerum also now offers tasting at their winery on Industrial Way in Buellton. Taste Margerum and Barden releases, sample wine from tank or barrel and tour the winery. Open Sat–Sun noon–5pm.
Martian Ranch & Vineyard 9110 Alisos Canyon Rd., Los Alamos 805 344-1804 MartianVineyard.com The Martian Ranch tasting room is open Wed–Sun 11am–5pm. Taste their estate-grown biodynamically farmed wines for an out-of-this-world experience! Winery tours daily; vineyard tours on the weekends. Enjoy wines by the glass, bocce court, horseshoe pit and dog-friendly picnic areas. Open Wed–Sun 11am–5pm. Mon and Tues by appointment only.
Riverbench Vineyard & Winery 137 Anacapa St., Ste. C., Santa Barbara 805 324-4100 6020 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-8340 Riverbench.com Established in 1973, when the first Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes were planted on the property. For years since then, some of the most renowned wineries have purchased Riverbench fruit for their wines. In 2004, Riverbench began producing their own still and sparkling wines in limited quantities, with many available exclusively through their tasting rooms in Santa Maria and Santa Barbara. Open in Santa Barbara 11am–6pm daily. Open in Santa Maria 10am–4pm daily.
Savoy Wines 18 W. Anapamu St., Santa Barbara 805 962-5353 SavoyWinesSB.weebly.com Locally owned and operated, Savoy Wines is Santa Barbara’s go-to wine shop. Boasting an extensive local and import selection, the shop offers one-ofa-kind ambiance, with knowledgeable, friendly and outgoing staff to assist you in finding that perfect bottle, in a relaxed vibe, smack dab in the middle of downtown Santa Barbara. Open Mon–Sat 11am–7pm, Closed Sun.
tasting room, open Tue–Thu 3–9pm; Fri–Sat 2–10pm; Sun 1–7pm. Telegraph beer is available at many restaurants and grocery stores in Santa Barbara County and throughout California.
Wine Collector’s Room 414 N. Salsipuedes St., Santa Barbara 805 689-3569 WineCollectorsRoom.com Santa Barbara’s newest private wine storage facility. The Wine Collector’s Room has over 40 private, climatecontrolled lockers and a members-only lounge. Daily 11am–9pm, Sun 11am–6pm.
The Wine Shepherd 30 E. Ortega St., Santa Barbara, 805 963-1012 WineShepherdSB.com The Wine Shepherd is a cozy wine bar and retail shop featuring local and international wines with a focus on rare, esoteric and old vintage bottles. Located next to The Black Sheep Restaurant in Santa Barbara’s Presidio neighborhood. Open Tue–Sun noon–10pm.
Zaca Mesa Winery 6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos 805 688-9339 ZacaMesa.com Since 1973, Zaca Mesa Winery has crafted distinctive wines from their unique mesa-top vineyard. As an early pioneer of the region, they now have 150 acres planted, specializing in the production of estate-grown Rhônestyle wines. Tasting room and picnic area open daily 10am–4pm. Call for more information on winery tours and private event space.
Specialty Retail Arvind Group 917 301-2413 ArvindGroupWholesale.com Specializing in flatware, glasses, pizza and pasta plates, ice buckets and more. View the catalog online and call for pricing and ordering.
CBD & Honey Body Care by Life Elements 805 423-6529 CBDNHoney.com Life Elements CBD & Honey body care soothes aches and pains, relieves inflammation, hydrates and repairs dry skin. Locally handcrafted with organic, full spectrum hemp-derived CBD and pure bee goodness of beeswax, honey, propolis, royal jelly and pollen. A natural health alternative for your medicine cabinet.
Grapeseed Company 961 Linden Ave., Carpinteria 120 Santa Barbara St., Santa Barbara, 805 318-1486 TheGrapeseedCompany.com The Grapeseed Company creates botanical spa and skincare products handcrafted from the byproduct of wine plus antioxidant-rich local and organic ingredients. Open in Santa Barbara Mon–Thu 11:30am–6:30pm, Fri–Sun 11:30am–8:30pm and in Carpinteria Mon–Fri 10:30am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 9:30am–5pm.
Telegraph Brewing Co.
Tecolote Bookstore
418 N. Salsipuedes St., Santa Barbara 805 963-5018 TelegraphBrewing.com
1470 E. Valley Rd., Montecito 805 969-4977
Handcrafting unique American ales that embrace the heritage of California’s early brewing pioneers and use as many locally grown ingredients as possible. Visit the
Tecolote Bookstore is an independent bookstore located in the upper village of Montecito. Open Mon–Fri 10am–5:30pm; Sat 10am–5pm; closed Sun.
Professional Services American Riviera Bank 525 San Ysidro Rd., Montecito, 805-335-8110 AmericanRivieraBank.com 1033 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara 805 965-5942 AmericanRivieraBank.com Offering a local and sustainable approach to banking. The founders of American Riviera Bank are a carefully selected group of successful, prominent, experienced and influential community and business leaders who understand the unique needs of the Santa Barbara community. Montecito branch open Mon–Thu 9am–5pm; Fri 9am–5:30pm. Santa Barbara branch open Mon–Thu 8am–5pm, Fri 8am–6pm.
The Foodbank of Santa Barbara County 805 967-5741 FoodbankSBC.org Working every day to move people from hunger into health. The mission of the Foodbank is to provide nourishment to those in need by acquiring and distributing safe nutritious foods via local agencies and providing education to solve hunger and nutrition problems in Santa Barbara County.
On Q Financial 1332 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-0694 OnQFinancial.com Since 2013, On Q Financial’s goal has been to ensure the mortgage process is streamlined and smooth for every client. Their team even works closely with community partners to provide homebuyers’ workshops to the Santa Barbara community. They are ready to help you purchase a home or refinance your existing home loans—in Santa Barbara and beyond.
Sansum Clinic SansumClinic.org Sansum Clinic’s health education programs are designed and conducted by board-certified physicians, registered dietitian nutritionists, registered nurses, certified diabetes educators, physical therapists and other specialized professionals. Many programs are free of charge and are open to all members of our community.
SBCC Foundation 805 730-4401 SBCCFoundation.org The SBCC Foundation was established in 1976 to provide Santa Barbara City College with private philanthropic support. The foundation acts in partnership with the college and bridges the gap between available public funding and institutional need, as determined by the college leadership. The SBCC Foundation provides more than $4 million annually for student success programs, scholarships, book grants and other critical needs of the college in order to support SBCC students as they prepare for careers, transfer to four-year universities and pursue lifelong learning goals.
Visit Santa Maria SantaMariaValley.com Just like our barbecue, the recipe for our way of life requires simplicity, character, soul and a touch of spice. Hit the road and explore all you can do in and around Santa Maria Valley. You’ll find it’s the perfect home base, where you can eat, drink and do more for less.
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Winter’s
Don’t-Miss Dish by Liz Dodder PHOTOGRAPHY BY LIZ DODDER
Green Huevos
at Scarlett Begonia Ask Crista Fleming about any dish on the menu at Scarlett Begonia in Santa Barbara and you’ll get a story. A delicious food story, with characters and influences and reasons for each ingredient, lingers behind each creation being served at breakfast, lunch or the bakery counter. Fleming’s varied background in catering, culinary school, traveling, cooking and editing a food and lifestyle magazine gives her restaurant a rich background in flavors—and the thoughtful dishes show it. On the menu this winter, Green Huevos was inspired by a trip to Big Sur, where Fleming experienced a new kind of huevos rancheros with grilled shrimp and local garnishes. After collaborating with her culinary team, she decided to make her huevos green, using tomatillos and watermelon radishes from Sunrise Organic Farms in Lompoc, and avocados from AvoGanic in Carpinteria. Santa Barbara’s coastal farms provide ideal growing conditions for these veggies even into winter. Fleming loves the bright, tart flavor of tomatillos, whether in this cooked sauce or in a raw salsa. She balances it with fresh guacamole—made simply with just five 80 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA WINTER 2019
ingredients: local avocado, onion, tomato, salt, lemon—and a garnish of big, gorgeous watermelon radish slices. It’s almost too pretty to eat. To make Green Huevos, she roasts tomatillos in the oven until lightly browned, then blends with garlic, onion, water, salt and pepper. She makes guacamole and warms up some black beans. Next, she heats frying oil in a skillet, and lightly fries two corn tortillas. Then she sautés shrimp until just pink (1–2 minutes per side) and, finally, fries an egg to your liking. To assemble, she spreads some tomatillo sauce on the plate, layers the tortillas with beans and sauce and slides the egg on top, sprinkling queso fresco around the plate. Then she tops with the shrimp, fresh guacamole, micro cilantro and big slices of watermelon radish. Liz Dodder is a drinker, eater and traveler who has eaten five kinds of foie gras in one day. She’s also a blogger, writer, photographer, recipe developer, web designer, social media maven and Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW). CaliCoastWineCountry.com
ON COAST VILLAGE AND HOT SPRINGS ROAD THE BAKERY • GEORGE • HUDSON GRACE • INTERMIX • JAMES PERSE KENDALL CONRAD • LITTLE ALEX’S • MALIA MILLS • MATE GALLERY • MERCI TO GO MONTECITO BARBERS • MONTECITO NATURAL FOODS • ONE HOUR MARTINIZING PANINO’S • POPPY STORE • POST OFFICE • PRESSED JUICERY • READ N’ POST • RORI’S ARTISANAL CREAMERY • SPACE N.K. APOTHECARY • TOY CRAZY • UNION BANK • VONS
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