Edible Santa Barbara Summer 2022

edible

ISSUE 51 • SUMMER 2022

®

THE Wine ISSUE Wine Label Artwork Contest Tips for Storing Your Wine at Home Schiacciata con l’Uva Celebrating Alisos Canyon AVA Picnic on the Riviera L O YA L

T O

L O C A L

“ My family has been working here 50 years, American Riviera is helping us plan our success for the next 50.”

— ARTURO GONZALEZ, SR.

20

Matthew Limon Twenty years of banking on the Central Coast

This is True Community Banking Arturo Gonzalez, Sr., Founder & Owner, Progressive Environmental Industries, Inc., with Matthew Limon, AVP, Client Relationship Manager

Combining our expertise with yours to find solutions for your unique needs.

Visit us at AmericanRiviera.Bank • 805.965.5942

edible

SANTA BAR BAR A

®

page 24

LIZ DODDER

JANICE COOK KNIGHT

Summer 2022

page 64

Departments 6 Food for Thought

by Krista Harris

8 Small Bites

20 Seasonal Recipe

by Hanna-Lee Sedgwick

Fresh Summer Corn Bisque

22 Drinkable Landscape

by Emily Choi

by George Yatchisin

12 In Season

24 Schiacciata con l’Uva

White Wine Risotto with Cherry Tomatoes

SANDY WELSH, GALLOIS PHOTO

by Jane Chapman

Wine, Beer and Everything In Between

14 Seasonal Recipe

2 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

Farmers Market Summer Crudités

by Jane Chapman

Summer Must-Haves

10 Small Sips

page 20

18 Seasonal Recipe

A Deep-Sea Dive of a Drink

Tuscan Focaccia with Grapes

by Janice Cook Knight

26 Yakitori Guy

by Krista Harris

by Rosminah Brown

16 Seasonal Recipe

62 Support Local Guide

Chardonnay Shallot Sauce

by Krista Harris

64 The Last Bite Summer’s Don’t-Miss-Dish Presqu’ile’s Mezze Picnic

by Liz Dodder

GARDEN TASTINGS

SANTA BARBARA WINE COUNTRY IS WAITING FOR YOU DELICIOUS AND DIVERSE WINES STUNNING LANDSCAPES

VISIT US FROM 11AM-5PM DAILY WWW.BUTTONWOODWINERY.COM

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SANTA BAR BAR A

®

Features 28 Celebrating Alisos Canyon AVA

And the Incredible Past, Present and Future to Come

by Sonya Magdevski

36 Is Plastic Waste the Cost of Eating?

by Emily Payne and Danielle Nierenberg

44 And the Winners are…

Edible Santa Barbara Wine Label Artwork Contest

by Krista Harris

52 Tips for Storing Your Wine at Home

by Hana-Lee Sedgwick

48 Picnic on the Riviera

by Pascale Beale

page 48

Recipes in This Issue Appetizers and Soup 18 Farmers Market Summer Crudités 20 Fresh Summer Corn Bisque 58 Radish, Goat Cheese and Herb Pâté 58 Salmon Rillettes

Main Dishes and Sauces 59 Caramelized Onion, Zucchini, Basil and Arugula Galette 16 Chardonnay Shallot Sauce 14 White Wine Risotto with Cherry Tomatoes

Desserts and Breads 61 Berry Verrines 25 Schiacciata con l’Uva

Beverages 23 The Eight Arms In Cocktail

4 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

PASC ALE BE ALE

Summer 2022

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

STE VEN BROWN

F Krista Harris prepares a picnic in an apron by local company GKP.

ood and wine go together like summer and sun. So I thought it was time we had a wine-themed summer issue. There is something about the foggy mornings turning into sunny afternoons that is the essence of Santa Barbara summers. When the marine layer is extra thick along the coast, I love to escape inland to Los Olivos, Santa Ynez or Solvang.

And when the heat is too much in the valley, we make our way to the beach. Either way, it’s a great time to pack a basket with a supply of food and wine and have a proper picnic.

The romantic nature of picnics has always appealed to me. As a child, I loved eating outdoors. And as soon as I was old enough, I started planning and preparing picnics. One memorable picnic was at Balboa Park in San Diego and involved transporting an entire birthday layer cake.

Later, when I discovered The Silver Palate Cookbook (the original white one), I fantasized about the suggested beach picnic menu that included gazpacho, assorted quiches, Technicolor bean salad, brioche bread, chocolate mousse and strawberries. But I usually ended up making potato salad, sandwiches and brownies. Not that that’s a bad thing. Because, as anyone knows, if it’s lovingly made from scratch and put in a wicker basket, it will be delicious. But I’m always on the hunt for new picnic food inspiration, and Pascale Beale shares some lovely picnic memories and recipes in this issue.

How you pack your picnic can be important, too. Twenty years ago, I received two picnic baskets as wedding gifts, and I use both to this day. These days I also try to pack a plastic-free picnic. Read more about plastic waste in this issue’s story by Emily Payne and Danielle Nierenberg. In addition to choosing unpackaged food right from the start, we can do our part by not reaching for plastic when packing a picnic. Sandwiches can be wrapped in parchment paper, and there are many things that can be neatly put in various-sized mason jars.

I also have stainless steel tiffin containers that I got from Happy Tiffin, a local Santa Barbara company. They are attractive, stackable and easy to transport.

I’ve never complained about transporting a bottle of wine with my picnic, but if weight or glass is an issue, there are delicious local wines in aluminum cans. And that’s yet another reason why a picnic wine tasting at a local vineyard can be such a great idea—no need to bring wine. So pack some food to go with your favorite wine, find some sun and enjoy this summer.

Krista Harris, Editor and Publisher

Visit our website at EdibleSantaBarbara.com and sign up for our email Visit our website at www.EdibleSantaBarbara.com

newsletter or goand directly EdibleSantaBarbara.Substack.com/welcome. followtous on social media @edibleSB

6 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

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SANTA BAR BAR A Member of Edible Communities

Edible Communities James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year (2011)

PUBLISHER & EDITOR

Krista Harris RECIPE EDITOR

Nancy Oster COPY EDITING & PROOFING

Doug Adrianson DESIGNER

Steven Brown ADVERTISING

Amanda Mulvihill SOCIAL MEDIA

Jill Johnson CONTRIBUTORS

Pascale Beale Rosminah Brown Jane Chapman Emily Choi Liz Dodder Janice Cook Knight Sonja Magdevski Danielle Nierenberg Emily Payne Hana-Lee Sedgwick Carole Topalian George Yatchisin ADVISORY GROUP

Pascale Beale, Jordan benShea, Rosminah Brown, Janice Cook Knight, Katie Hershfelt, Jill Johnson, Nancy Oster Edible Santa Barbara® is published quarterly and distributed throughout Santa Barbara County.

Subscription rate is $28 annually. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher.

Publisher expressly disclaims all liability for any occurrence that may arise as a consequence of the use of any information or recipes. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.

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WINER Y & VINEYARDS

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RoblarWinery.com

small

BITES

SU M M E R MUST-HAV ES WORDS BY

Hanna-Lee Sedgwick

With

spring in our rearview mirror, it’s time to officially embrace those summertime vibes. Whether hitting the beach with friends, stocking up on local produce at the farmers market or packing a picnic for a day at the park, here are some Santa Barbara must-haves for making the most of the season.

Riviera Towel Essential Blanket This extra-large blanket is a chic choice for beach outings and backyard movie nights. Made of a lightweight, 100% Turkish cotton fabric, it packs small for easy travel—keep one in your purse for impromptu picnics—while the supersoft texture makes it cozy enough to use as a throw. www.RivieraTowel.com

Love Your Body Oil Made from a blend of organic oils and botanical extracts, this refreshing body oil by esthetician Nina Lafuente is the perfect solution for nourishing dry, summertime skin.

Layer it on after a day at the beach to hydrate and soothe your skin, then let the aromas of lemongrass, lavender and tea tree transport you to the tropics. www.NinaLafuente.com

The Santa Barbara Company Market Basket Carry your fresh fruit and flowers home from the farmers market in this classic market basket, handwoven by Moroccan artisans using natural palm leaf. With its neutral color and large capacity, it’s as versatile as it is stylish. www.SantaBarbaraCompany.com

Pascale’s Kitchen Tomato Lavender Jam This delightful jam—made by Edible Santa Barbara contributor Pascale Beale—highlights in-season tomatoes, sugar and a hint of lavender. Fragrant and complex, it’s our secret ingredient for sweet and savory galettes, but it’s equally delicious smeared on a biscuit with cream cheese. www.PascalesKitchen.com

8 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

Piedrasassi Pizza Dough Known for her naturally leavened, wood-fired bread, Melissa Sorongon also produces noteworthy homemade pizza dough. Top it with a bit of sauce, cheese, herbs and a drizzle of olive oil, then cook it on the grill for an idyllic al fresco pizza night. www.Piedrasassi.com

Lush Life Cookbook Channel your inner host with Valerie Rice’s garden-to-table cookbook—a beautiful collection of recipes celebrating the region’s seasonal bounty. From the summer-worthy Strawberry Mezcal Margaritas to the fresh and vibrant Tomato & Stone Fruit Salad, Lush Life’s recipes and photos are sure to inspire your next gathering. www.EatDrinkGarden.com

Santa Barbara Pistachio Company’s Salt & Pepper Pistachios Organic pistachios from Santa Barbara Pistachio Co. are roasted with sea salt and black pepper, resulting in a salty, zesty snack that’s rather addictive. Pack a bag for a posthike snack, or serve them alongside hors d’oeuvres during cocktail hour with friends. www.SantaBarbaraPistachios.com

Good Kitchen Products Apron Look the part for your next cookout or dinner party with this sustainably made apron designed

by Kazuyo Takeda. The two front pockets conveniently keep your phone and cooking utensils handy, while the hot pink color captures the joyful spirit of summer. www.GKPOfficial.com

Il Fustino 25 Barrel-Aged Balsamic This slightly acidic, slightly sweet vinegar is a cook’s summer companion. Use it to finish caprese salads and to add excitement to grilled veggies, or simply drizzle it over ice cream for a unique treat. The possibilities of this richly layered aged balsamic are nearly endless. www.ilFustino.com

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 9

small

SIPS

Wines, Beers and Everything In Between ON MONDAYS, SUNDAYS AND EVERY DAY IN BETWEEN

M

STE VEN BROWN

Tu

The

post-pandemic age. Two years ago, that term felt like a wavering end of an exhaustingly long, dark tunnel as we struggled with concepts such as N-95 masks and Zoom. However, whether it be by seeing each other’s mask-less smiles in conversations or the recent swelling of crowds in the farmers markets, it is clear that we are now slowly re-familiarizing ourselves with what we used to take for granted, albeit with good caution. In other words, although we haven’t fully reached the unforeseeable postpandemic age yet, we have now entered a time where we are learning to cope and live with the enemy.

With warmer days approaching fast, it’s time to explore new places all over Santa Barbara County or perhaps visit your old favorites. So go put on your favorite outfit and message your loved ones to see if they’re free tonight, because here is a list of places that you can explore with your friends and family, no matter what day—or night— of the week it is!

Be sure to check their Instagram and website for information about their specials, latest news and operating hours.

10 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

SANTA BARBAR A WINE COLLEC TIVE

Emily Choi

STE VEN BROWN

WORDS BY

W

Monday

Island Brewing Company @islandbrewingcompany | 5049 6th St., Carpinteria www.IslandBrewingCompany.com

One of life’s simplest joys is arguably a refreshing, crisp pint of beer, and where else is a more blissful way to end your Monday night than at Island Brewing Company? While their delightful Shaka Seltzers are my personal favorites, the well-loved local brewery has endless options of ales, IPAs and more for everyone to enjoy just a couple blocks from Carpinteria beach.

Tuesday

Draughtsmen Aleworks: Weekly Trivia Night @draughtsmen | 53 Santa Felicia Dr., Goleta www.DraughtsmenAleworks.com

While being a firm believer in how Tuesdays are the new dreary and dreadful Mondays, I also strongly attest that a fun, chaotic night of trivia—especially at Draughtsmen—can cure any and all cases of Tuesday Blues. If anything, who could resist sipping on a pint of Bangers and Mash while being quizzed on which Bowie song is playing?

S

Z AC A MESA

AMANDA MULVIHILL

ROBB KL AUSSEN

STE VEN BROWN

Th

F

Su

Wednesday

Saturday

Santa Barbara Wine Collective: Weekly Trivia Night

The Good Lion

@sbwinecollective | 131 Anacapa St., Suite C, Santa Barbara www.SantaBarbaraWineCollective.com

However, no need to fret if you’re too busy on Tuesday nights, as SB Wine Collective also offers weekly trivia nights to those looking for brain teasers with friends and loved ones. With their commitment to reflecting the bountiful winery culture of Santa Barbara County’s six AVAs, join the excitement in the Funk Zone while inevitably stumbling upon your new favorite wine.

Thursday

Wylde Works: Weekly Live Music Night @wyldeworks | 609 State St., Santa Barbara www.WyldeWorks.com

Located in the bustling center of State Street, Wylde Works has quickly become a local hot spot with its delicious hard kombucha and meads. Aside from their Live Music Nights, they are also planning on hosting exciting events such as Open Mic and Short Story Nights throughout the summer. This is your sign to go enjoy a sip of their elderberry hibiscus hard jun kombucha while being surrounded by joyful and heartwarming individuals.

Friday

Melville Winery @melville_winery | 120 State St., Suite C, Santa Barbara www.MelvilleWinery.com

After a long, grueling week, a visit to Melville Winery’s Santa Barbara Tasting Lounge may be just what you need to wind down and enjoy the rest of your evening. Dedicated to crafting cold-climate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah at their estate vineyards in the Santa Rita Hills, it’s clear that Melville doesn’t disappoint even the most passionate wine enthusiasts. Their tasting room is located near the Funk Zone—a high-spirited, ever-evolving district that makes for a great stroll spot after your tasting.

@thegoodlionbar | 1212 State St., Santa Barbara www.GoodLionCocktails.com

As the first certified Green Business craft cocktail bar by the California Green Business Program on the Central Coast, you can always count on The Good Lion to beautifully capture the luscious taste of Santa Barbara with their cocktails. Their fierce commitment to reflecting our region through sustainable practices, from their space design to their local natural wine selections, is truly inspiring—and delicious. Try their Strawberry Fields Forever cocktail, a blanc vermouth and rosé wine–based drink with notes of citrus, strawberry, mint and rhum agricol: a bright summer afternoon captured in one sip!

Sunday

Zaca Mesa Winery & Vineyards @zacamesawinery | 6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos www.ZacaMesa.com

Sunday: the end of the week, time for rest and recreation. And last but not least, a perfect day to visit Zaca Mesa Winery & Vineyards, one of many beautiful spots along the Foxen Canyon Wine Trail. Enjoy a tasting flight with your friends by the terrace or share a bottle while picnicking with your family. Zaca Mesa offers an idyllic experience for everyone. The spectacular landscape, however, becomes an even more meaningful sight after learning about their rich history and terroir-driven, Rhône-style winemaking approach. Fun fact: Their first winemaker, Ken Brown, planted the very first Syrah in Santa Barbara County, making their Black Bear Block the oldest remaining Syrah vineyard on the entire Central Coast!

Emily Choi is currently an intern at Edible Santa Barbara and a recent UCSB graduate.

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 11

in

Season this summer SUMMER PRODUCE

YEAR-ROUND PRODUCE

SUMMER SEAFOOD

Apricots

Almonds, almond butter (harvested Aug/Sept)

Halibut

Artichokes Asparagus

Apples

Salmon, King

Arugula

Sardines

Basil

Beans, dried

Shark

Beans, green

Beets

Spot prawns

Blackberries

Bok choy

Avocados

CHERRIES

Rock fish

Swordfish ALMONDS

Blueberries

Broccoli

Cabbage

Carrots

White seabass

Cantaloupe

Cauliflower

Yellowtail

Celery

Chard

Cherries

Dandelion

Chiles

Dates (harvested Sept/Oct)

Chives

EGGPLANT

Tuna, albacore

YEAR-ROUND SEAFOOD

Edible flowers

Black cod

Collards

Garlic (harvested May/June)

Clams

Herbs (Bay leaf, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme)

Cucumber Dill Eggplant Grapefruit

DILL

Grapes

Leeks

OTHER YEAR-ROUND

Lemons

Onions, bulb (harvested May/June)

Melons Mint

POTATOES

SQUASH

Onions, green bunching Peaches

Potatoes

Fresh flowers

Radishes

Plums/Pluots

Olives, olive oil

Spinach

Raspberries

Sprouts

Squash, summer

Squash, winter (harvested July/Oct)

Strawberries Tomatillo

Walnuts, walnut oil (harvested Sept/Oct)

Tomatoes Turnips WATERMELON

12 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

Yams (harvested Aug/Sept)

HONEY

Honey

Raisins (harvested Sept/Oct)

Peppers

Coffee (limited availability) Dairy (Regional raw milk, artisanal goat- and cow-milk cheeses, butters, curds, yogurts and spreads)

Pistachios, pistachio oil (harvested Sept/Oct)

Mustard greens

URCHIN

Eggs

Oranges

Mulberries

Watermelon

Urchin

Mushrooms

Limes

Rock crab Sanddabs

Lettuce

Lavender

Nectarines

Oysters BOK CHOY

Kale

Figs

OYSTERS

Abalone (farmed)

Cilantro Corn

SALMON

SPINACH

Meat (Beef, chicken, duck, goat, rabbit, pork) Potted plants/herbs Preserves Wheat (Wheat berries, wheat flour, PASTA bread, pasta and baked goods produced from wheat grown locally)

Tasting Room & Wine Library

12-6 PM Mon-Fri 11AM-6 PM Sat & Sun Taking tasting reservations on Tock

wines of vision, balance and character

Photo: Nell Campbell

813 Anacapa Street, Santa Barbara 805-963-7999 ~ www.aubonclimat.com

The SBCC Promise The SBCC Promise has provided more than 5,000 local high school graduates with the opportunity to pursue their dreams at Santa Barbara City College.

Created in 2016, the SBCC Promise covers all required fees, books, and supplies for two years, and is completely funded by private gifts.

Your gift makes it possible. sbccfoundation.org | (805) 730-4401

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 13

seasonal

Recipe

White Wine Risotto with Cherry Tomatoes

In

the middle of summer there is finally a surplus of delicious, ripe cherry tomatoes in all the shades of yellow, orange, red and sometimes purple and green. At this time of year the tomatoes are so good, they can be the star of this simple risotto.

I like to use a Sauvignon Blanc for this recipe—one that is balanced with fruit flavors and not overly grassy. Arborio rice is often used for risotto, but if you can get your hands on Carnaroli rice, it will be even creamier.

MAKES 2–3 SERVINGS

3 cups vegetable or chicken broth 2 tablespoons butter 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 cup Arborio or Carnaroli rice

⁄

cup Sauvignon Blanc or other white wine

⁄

pint of cherry tomatoes, cut in half

1 2 1 2

A little Italian parsley and/or basil, chopped

⁄

1 2

cup grated Parmesan

Salt and freshly ground black pepper Olive oil

Bring the broth to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cover the broth and keep it warm over very low heat.

Add a cup of hot broth; simmer over medium-low heat until the liquid is absorbed, stirring often, about 6 minutes. Repeat, adding another cup of hot broth 2 more times, stirring often, about 12 minutes longer. Simmer until the rice is just tender and the mixture is creamy, about 5 minutes longer. Stir in the tomatoes, herbs and Parmesan. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Drizzle with a little olive oil and serve.

—Krista Harris

14 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

STEVEN BROWN

Melt the butter in a heavy large saucepan over medium heat.

Add the onion and sauté until translucent, about 8 minutes.

Stir in the garlic and sauté for 30 seconds. Stir in the rice and cook for about 2 minutes until the rice is toasted. Add the wine and stir until it is absorbed, about 1 minute.

FOXEN

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V I N E YA R D & W I N E R Y

Sustainable Wine Growers Since 1985 Foxen’s historic tasting Shack has reopened!

Open Daily by Reservations | 7600 & 7200 Foxen Canyon Road | 805.937.4251 | www.foxenvineyard.com

C E L E B R AT I N G 6 0 Y E AR S AS A SA N TA BA R BA RA W I N E C O U N T RY P I O N E E R

Santa Bar b ar a Winery S A N TA B A R B A R A TA S T I N G R O O M I N T H E F U N K Z O N E 2 8 A N A C A PA S T R E E T, S A N TA B A R B A R A | 8 0 5 . 9 6 3 . 3 6 3 3 W W W . S B W I N E R Y. C O M

L a fo nd Winery & Vineya rds E S TAT E L A B E L & V I N E YA R D I N T H E S TA . R I TA H I L L S 6 8 5 5 S A N TA R O S A R O A D , B U E L LT O N | 8 0 5 . 6 8 8 . 7 9 2 1 W W W . L A F O N D W I N E R Y. C O M

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 15

seasonal

Chardonnay Shallot Sauce

KRISTA HARRIS

Recipe A

splash of white wine is a great way to deglaze a pan and makes a delicious sauce for sautéed chicken, fish or vegetables. But even if you haven’t sautéed something, you can make a delicious pan sauce with shallots. This is not a creamy sauce, but more of tangy, bright addition to whatever you serve it with—perhaps some grilled seafood or vegetables.

While you could use any white wine, a crisp Chardonnay is perfect for this sauce—especially if it’s the same local Chardonnay that you’ll be drinking with your meal. I like to use an unoaked, stainlesssteel-fermented Chardonnay with hints of green apple, which is very easy to find in Santa Barbara County.

Summer is the time to find locally grown shallots at the market, and although you could substitute onion or garlic, shallots are the ideal flavor pairing with the wine. Also, don’t use a nonstick skillet when making this sauce. You want a surface that will get that golden brown fond that adds so much flavor to the sauce.

MAKES 2–3 SERVINGS

Olive oil 2 small shallots, finely chopped

⁄

3 4 cup

Chardonnay or other white wine

3 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper, to taste Optional flavor additions: capers, parsley, basil or other fresh herbs

Add enough olive oil to coat the bottom of a skillet and sauté the shallots over medium heat until golden—you should have some slightly brown bits sticking to the surface of your skillet.

Add the wine carefully (it may splatter), and with a wooden spatula scrape the residue off the bottom of the pan. Let the wine cook and reduce by about half. Then add the butter and stir or whisk until it is incorporated and slightly emulsified.

Add some salt and pepper to taste. You can also add capers or freshly minced herbs for additional flavor. Serve with something just off the grill or anything you like.

—Krista Harris

LEARN. TASTE. EXPLORE.

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EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 17

seasonal

SANDY WELSH, GALLOIS PHOTO

Recipe

18 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

Farmers Market Summer Crudités

This

no-fuss and easily assembled recipe is a quintessential celebration of summer and is created from the seasonal bounty of local organic produce at our farmers market. Meandering though the market, taking in the vibrant colors of the summer, meeting local farmers and tasting samples adds to the joy of this infinitely adaptable recipe.

MAKES 6–8 SERVINGS

FOR THE VEGETABLES 1 small bunch carrots, sliced into long wedges 1 head Romanesco broccoli, cut into bite-size florets 1 yellow beet, shaved on a mandoline 4–6 Persian cucumbers, sliced into long wedges 1 large handful Sugar Snap peas 1 bulb fennel, shaved on a mandoline 2 bunches assorted small radishes 1–2 watermelon radishes, shaved on a mandoline 4 Baby Gem lettuces, sliced in half or quarters 3 small purple artichokes (cooked ahead and chilled)

TO MAKE THE SALMON DIP

In a small bowl shred the salmon. In a separate bowl mix the remaining ingredients. Once the sour cream and mayonnaise are smooth, gently fold in the smoked salmon. Be careful not to over stir and break the salmon as you want to keep it shredded rather than make it into a paste.

TO MAKE THE VINAIGRETTE

Whisk all ingredients together, taste and adjust seasoning. Assemble your crudités by placing a bowl filled with your smoked fish dip on one area of the platter and a bowl of vinaigrette on another. Next, neatly arrange the vegetables around the two bowls on your platter and serve.

TO MAKE AHEAD

Assemble the vegetables on the platter and cover with a damp tea towel in the refrigerator until you are ready to serve. You may prep vegetables and store up to one day ahead as long as the towel remains damp. The vinaigrette and dip may be made and chilled a few days in advance.

Simply bring the vinaigrette to room temperature about 20 minutes before you serve the crudités.

Jane Chapman is a Santa Barbara native whose parents, Mark and Margaret Huston, are both professional chefs and the owners of Jane restaurants and the beloved Montecito Café. After 20 years of experience in the restaurant business, Jane’s newest venture, The Communal Table Santa Barbara, combines her love of food with meaningful and curated conversations for women. www.CommunalTableSB.com

1 bunch asparagus (trimmed, blanched ahead and chilled)

FOR THE SALMON DIP 15 ounces smoked California King Salmon, gently pulled apart and shredded with a fork 3 scallions, white portion only, finely chopped

⁄

1 4

cup dill, finely chopped

2 teaspoons fresh-squeezed lemon juice 2 3

⁄

cup organic sour cream

⁄

cup organic mayonnaise

⁄

teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 3 1 2

FOR THE VINAIGRETTE

⁄

1 4

cup Yuzu Sideyard Shrub

(local fruit vinegar, www.drinksideyard.com)

⁄

1 2

cup extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon whole-grain mustard Coarse salt Freshly ground black pepper

Wash and prep the vegetables, then prepare dip and vinaigrette.

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 19

seasonal

Recipe

Fresh Summer Corn Bisque

I

call this dish a bisque because the hand-straining process makes it smooth, but unlike other bisques this recipe does not include cream. Instead it relies on the creaminess of a potato. And the use of a chinois or finemesh strainer leaves a silky and elegant mouthfeel.

Makes 6–8 servings 4 teaspoons unsalted butter 1 large white onion, chopped 1 carrot, peeled and chopped 1 stalk celery, chopped 1 teaspoon coarse salt 2 quarts organic chicken stock 1–2 small Melody (or other yellow) potatoes, peeled and cubed 8–10 ears of sweet white corn, husk and silk discarded and kernels removed for use. (Set aside 3–4 of the cleaned cobs to use in the soup.)

Finely ground white pepper to taste Purple basil leaves for garnish

Melt butter in soup pan to sauté the onion, carrot and celery.

Add salt and cook until the vegetables are soft and onions are translucent.

Turn heat to high and fill pot with the chicken stock. Once at a boil, lower heat to create a gentle boil. Add the cubed potato and 3 corn cobs you’ve set aside (kernels removed).

Once the potato is soft, about 5–10 minutes, add the raw corn kernels and cook about 3–5 minutes, or until soft. Remove a cup or two of stock and set aside.

Remove the soup from heat and let cool a few minutes and then begin blending the soup with your immersion blender. Next, working in small batches, place the chinois over a stockpot and begin ladling the blended soup through your strainer.

Serve right away or store in the refrigerator for several days and reheat when ready to serve. Garnish the bisque with a small handful of raw corn kernels, freshly ground black pepper and chopped purple basil.

—Jane Chapman

20 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

SANDY WELSH, GALLOIS PHOTO

In between batches, gently remove the excess corn pulp or rinse the strainer. Once you have strained the soup you may add the fine white pepper to taste and adjust the thickness of the bisque by pouring in small amounts of the stock you have set aside.

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to savor the extraordinary.

In Monterey County, some experiences are best enjoyed at a slower pace. It’s easy to get lost in a stunning vista, the creativity of a dish, or a good conversation with great friends. So, come explore the flavor of this place. At your own speed.

SeeMonterey.com/Now EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 21

drinkable

LANDSCAPE

I’m

A Deep-Sea

going to fess up: I’m offering you a not-quitewine drink in this wine issue. The Eight Arms In Cocktail is built around piquette, which has been having a moment the past few years, even if it’s been around for centuries. Think of piquette as wine by-product —people rehydrate the pomace often tossed out. Sometimes it’s called “third wine,” following the free-run juice and the wine made from pressed grapes.

Historically piquette was a drink for the people who couldn’t afford wine or those who couldn’t afford to consume higher-alcohol drinks —it generally comes in between 5–7% ABV. (It is to wine what porter traditionally is to beer: a luncheon drink for the working masses.) The word means prickle in French. And piquette certainly does that, offering a pleasing effervescence and usually a bright fruitiness. Perfect for fieldworkers to consume midday and then to get back into the vineyards to make “real” wine for the rich folks.

Dive of a Drink WORDS BY

George Yatchisin

Like so many other once-humble foodstuffs (see lobster), piquette has now become hip. In their trend article about it, Bon Appétit got all bitchy and called piquette White Claw for wine lovers, but at least that’s not as bad as the old Italian term for piquette: acqua pazza, or “crazy water.” All this nomenclature is patently unfair, given winemakers have been using the method to invent all sorts of new deliciousness.

Take the ever-inventive Dave Potter right here in Santa Barbara. Winemaker for Muni Wines, Potek Winery and Nowadays Wines, Potter is crafting an Ocean Flor Piquette that couldn’t be more of our region. Start with that seeming typo in the name. Flor is the term for the yeast that ends up on top of wine during its making, something crucial, say, to give sherry its distinctive kick. Potter opted to go for some flor direct from the Pacific.

STE VEN BROWN

As the website puts it: “We rehydrated fresh grape skins out of the press and macerated them with smoked and dried kelps that were harvested for us off the Channel Islands. This low alcohol dashi-piquette was aged under flor yeast in old French oak barrels. After five months in barrel, the wine was re-energized with Riesling juice and a splash of seawater for bottle fermentation.”

Any such description would, of course, prick my interest, being a fan of smoky and salty flavors. And the Nowadays Piquette is refreshing and intriguing all on its own, almost tasting more like a saison than a wine. Muddler that I am, that didn’t stop me from wanting to tinker with it and make it into a cocktail—something simple, as this is summertime and the drinking should be easy.

The Eight Arms In (check out the great label art for the name’s inspiration) multiplies the notes in the piquette itself.

I’ve always thought of mezcal as tequila’s more intriguing cousin, someone with a mysterious, smoky past. So that seemed 22 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

a natural to add. And then I wanted to round the drink out, underline the floral notes. That led me to St-Germain, the elderflower liqueur that quickly got nicknamed bartender’s ketchup as it works so well bringing pretty much every cocktail together. We shouldn’t hate it just because it’s popular.

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As for which mezcal to use, that’s up to you and your budget, although wasting an expensive sipping one for a mere half ounce per drink might be an extravagance to the level of profligacy. El Silencio and Del Maguey Vida are generally available, affordable, and fine starter-level mezcals. If you want something a bit fancier, Bosscal Damiana, with its added infusion of the damiana flower, not only kicks in some more floral power, but it’s also supposed to be an aphrodisiac. Edible can neither confirm nor deny those effects.

Putting this drink together is particularly easy, as it’s a built cocktail—you do it directly into the glass. Measure the mezcal and St-Germain into a wine glass. Carefully pour the piquette over. Since it’s got bubbles, it will want to foam and make a mess, and you don’t want to waste any. Gently swirl the glass’s contents to mix. Then drop in three frozen grapes. Frozen grapes are tasty summer snack treats all on their own, and here they make a visual pun on olives and serve as a kind of ice cube to chill the drink down.

Note the drink is made small, three ounces total. That keeps it bracing and crisp as you enjoy it on your back patio, watching the hummingbirds at your feeder and chatting with friends. Just keep making the drinks fresh. Or finish the bottle all on its own.

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Be sure to toast to the rescue of what could have been waste product, as piquette gives life to the generally discarded seeds, pulp and skins. Think of it as reuse before we got all serious about saving the world (please tell me we are serious about saving the world).

George Yatchisin happily eats, drinks and writes in Santa Barbara.

He blogs at GeorgeEats.com.

RECIPE

The Eight Arms In Cocktail MAKES 1 COCKTAIL

2 ounces chilled Nowadays 2020 Ocean Flor Piquette

⁄ ounces mezcal

1 2

⁄ ounces St-Germain

1 2

3 frozen grapes (the muscat grapes Mesa Produce sells work particularly well)

In a Rhone-style wine glass (not a balloon glass), pour ½ ounce of mezcal and ½ ounce of St-Germain. Then pour 2 ounces of the piquette slowly over to mix. (Yes, it’s going to foam up, so be patient.) Garnish with 3 frozen grapes.

Garden or Indoor Dining

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EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 23

Schiacciata con l ’ Uva Tuscan Focaccia with Grapes WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Janice Cook Knight

If

you are lucky enough to be in Tuscany at the beginning of the autumn harvest season, bakeries will offer a rather thick focaccia-like bread with wine grapes liberally sprinkled across the top and nestled deep within. It’s called Schiacciata con l’uva, and fortunately you can make it at home.

Grape season begins in late summer/early fall. I often see wine grapes at our Santa Barbara Farmers Market beginning in September.

Sangiovese grapes are what’s usually used in Tuscany, and I often find Sangiovese at our market. They are the grapes used to make Chianti.

But other wine grapes will work as well. Concord grapes would also be delicious. Don’t mind about the seeds: I find it too much trouble to remove them, and after they are baked no one minds a little crunchiness. The Italians don’t bother to seed theirs. And if you can’t find wine grapes, do not despair! Just use flavorful red or black table grapes; it will still be delicious.

The word schiacciata (pronounced ski-ah-CHA-ta) means “pressed,” referring to the way the dough is stretched, then pressed, into the pan. It is very much like a focaccia, except it’s made with two layers of dough, with half of the grapes sandwiched in between the layers, the other half sprinkled on top.

I adapted this recipe from one by Carol Field from her excellent book, The Italian Baker.

Often schiacciata is made with a simple pizza dough that is simply sprinkled with grapes and sugar and some olive oil. I’ve tried it that way, but prefer this recipe, because the dough is enriched with eggs and butter, making a tastier, more tender schiacciata. It has just a little added sugar because grapes are so sweet already.

ABOUT FLOURS

Here I’ve specified a combination of all-purpose white flour and whole-wheat pastry or bread flour. However, I’ve often prepared this recipe using a combination of white spelt flour and whole spelt flour. Spelt, a kind of ancient wheat, contains less gluten, and makes a more tender dough. I like its texture, but if you use it you’ll need to add ½–1 cup more flour. Spelt absorbs moisture differently and is more delicate to work with, i.e., harder to stretch out.

If you are gluten-free, Aran Goyoaga has a similar focacciastyle recipe, Roasted Concord Grape Bread, in her excellent book, Cannelle et Vanille Bakes Simple.

Our farmers market sells a kind of heritage whole-wheat flour called Red Fife that I love to use in focaccia, and I used it to test this recipe. It has a particularly nutty flavor. Plus, it’s fun to buy wheat that is grown locally.

Janice Cook Knight is an award-winning writer, cookbook author and cooking teacher based in Santa Barbara. She enjoys gardening, music and the science of cooking, and is thrilled by a good recipe. She blogs with her daughter Sarah Migliaccio Barnes at TriedAndTrueKitchen.com and can be found on Instagram @triedtruekitchen.

24 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

Schiacciata con l’Uva FOR THE SPONGE 1 3⁄4 teaspoon active dry yeast, or 12 grams fresh yeast 3 tablespoons granulated organic or unbleached sugar 1 cup warm water (between 105–110°F)

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2 large eggs 1 3⁄4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

FOR THE DOUGH

www.ellaandlouie.com

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, divided 1 3⁄4 cups whole-wheat pastry or bread flour, such as Red Fife 1 teaspoon kosher salt

FOR THE FILLING 2 pounds wine grapes, such as Sangiovese, or Concord or red or black

R E N A U D ’ S

P A T I S S E R I E

S ant a B ar b ara | Lo n g B e ac h | La Can ad a | M o ntec ito w w w. re n au d sb i st ro. co m

seedless grapes, stemmed and washed (4–5 cups stemmed grapes) 4 tablespoons granulated, organic or unbleached sugar 1 teaspoon crushed fennel seed, divided

TO MAKE THE SPONGE

Using a large mixing bowl, stir the yeast and sugar into the water. Let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes. Beat the eggs into the yeast mixture with a wooden spoon. Stir in the all-purpose flour and mix well.

Cover with a plate or cloth and let stand until bubbly, about 30 minutes.

TO MAKE THE DOUGH

Beat 2 tablespoons of the butter into the sponge. Stir in the whole-wheat flour and salt, and add the rest of the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time. Knead on a lightly floured surface 6 to 7 minutes. Alternatively, you can put the dough in a mixer and knead it with the dough hook for about 3 minutes.

The dough should be stiff enough to hold its shape when you pinch it.

FIRST RISE

Place the dough in an oiled bowl, cover with a cloth or plate and let rise until doubled, about 1½ hours.

Prepare a half sheet pan (13- by 18-inch): Line with parchment to fit.

SECOND RISE

Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and cut in half without punching down the dough. It will be soft and stretchy. Stretch 1 piece onto the prepared pan so that it measures 1 by 11 inches. Sprinkle with half of the grapes and 2 tablespoons of the sugar, and sprinkle ½ teaspoon of the crushed fennel evenly over the surface. Stretch the remaining dough to the same size and place it on top of the first. If your dough is stiff, stretch it out, fold it in half to place it onto the bottom layer and then unfold it. If you use a softer flour like spelt or einkorn, stretch it out onto a peel, another pan or a piece of parchment paper and then ease it onto the bottom layer.

Sprinkle the remaining grapes, sugar and fennel over this piece. Cover the pan loosely with a cloth and let rise until puffy and doubled, about 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 400°F. BAKING

Bake schiacciata for about 30–40 minutes, or until nicely browned and baked through. Check partway through to see if it is browning too quickly. If so, cover the top with aluminum foil. To test for doneness, lift and tap the bread, it should sound hollow. Cool a few minutes in the pan, then remove from the pan and cool completely on a rack. When cooled, cut into squares, and serve.

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 25

Yakitori Guy.

Yakitori Guy WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Have

Rosminah Brown

you ever eaten something that was so delicious refer to any assortment of meat or vegetables grilled over the and fascinating that you up and left your job, fire. Yakitori is a small bite, literally, and when done right, it is a rebranded your name and life to revolve entirely around this delightful preparation of chicken—juicy and grilled to perfection favorite food? And you made it your personal journey to learn on the spot. It is carefully cultivated, fanned with smoke, spritzed about it, make it and spread the word to others? That’s what with sake and, by the end, it is the edible embodiment of your yakitori did to one young man, now relationship with the cook, the heat and known simply as Yakitori Guy. the chicken itself.

Yakitori is a Japanese preparation of Yakitori is a Japanese preparation Yakitori Guy graduated from UCSB grilled chicken and comes from the of grilled chicken and comes from in environmental studies, where his the words yaki (grill) and tori time working in the campus dining words yaki (grill) and tori (chicken). (chicken). It has erroneously been commons directly influenced his turned into a generic term for grilled food interests. Who says a university things on skewers dipped in teriyaki sauce. But Yakitori Guy is education is just about taking classes? It’s the whole experience! here to inform you that it’s strictly grilled chicken.

After college, he worked in the Bay Area tech industry, but the The traditional Japanese sauce is known as tare (pronounced call of yakitori kept beckoning him. Eventually, he was making TAH-ray) rather than teriyaki, but can you see where the tareyakitori every weekend in his apartment for friends. Finally, he yaki came from. The term robatayaki, however, can be used to resolved to devote himself full-time to the art. He quit his tech 26 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

job and traveled with Japan to learn under the yakitori masters, with the intent to visit yearly for study and experience.

Unfortunately, the pandemic had other plans. Once lockdown occurred, he pivoted to spread the word of yakitori online, and his following grew from there. Using YouTube, he practiced breaking down a chicken step by step. He showed that a single chicken could result in about two dozen different skewers, each spotlighting a different cut or texture, or enhanced by a dab of wasabi or umeboshi paste or dipped into his pot of tare.

Tare, like a well-cared-for sourdough starter or ramen stock, takes on distinct character over time and is often unique to its owner. It’s not unusual for tare to be many years old, especially for yakitori masters, but one made from scratch is still delicious and will develop more flavor in time.

Yakitori Guy’s video of the full chicken breakdown is over an hour. It was originally done live during lockdown for viewers to work with him in real time. An edited version is also available.

Start at the beginning of his videos, and you’ll see his production skills develop as well as his viewership. There are also videos showing specific skewers using breast meat, skin, thighs and the ubiquitous negima, or chicken with spring onions.

Yakitori Guy has shied away from using his real name, and although he might not be the type to use the term influencer, he does indeed influence the western world’s understanding and appreciation of yakitori.

Traditional yakitori is done on a specialized grill over a Japanese white charcoal called binchotan, but it is an expensive setup. He wholeheartedly encourages people to get started on simpler electric grills. In fact, he talked up a specific brand of electric grill listed on Amazon so much that it completely sold out. But when you’re ready to take the next steps, he has a suggested shopping list for tools ranging from specialty Japanese chicken cutting knives to a collection of finishing sauces and pastes for a range of budgets.

Now based in Los Angeles, Yakitori Guy has a strong following on YouTube, Instagram and TikTok. Rather than calling them followers, he sees them as fellow yakitori enthusiasts and warmly refers to them as “Yakigang.” He doesn’t see himself as an expert but more as an advocate. He has definitely learned a lot in the years he has devoted himself to yakitori and the yakitori community. And he is quick to point out that the masters he trained under have likewise been learning more in that time as well. As with any craft, there is a starting point but no end—only a long line of progress, practice and, ideally, turning back to reach out and encourage others to join.

Yakitori Guy has an approachable and enthusiastic personality, but most of all he is authentic. The art of yakitori may have a nuanced depth—both in the final product for the customer and in the creation by the chef—but it’s easy to get started. It’s that same journey that Yakitori Guy is on, and he invites you to join that path. Go at your own pace, make new paths and, most of all, enjoy the ride in the Yakigang!

Rosminah Brown is a Santa Barbara native who types fast and eats slow.

When she isn’t fleeing wildfires in the foothills, she can often be found around the San Marcos Preserve, especially now. She hopes everyone is staying safe and looking after each other.

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Yakitori Guy Resources You can watch the Yakitori Guy on YouTube at www.YouTube.com/c/YakitoriGuy. If you’re not ready to sharpen your own yakitori skills, you can find robatayaki at Sachi Ramen and Robata Bar in downtown Santa Barbara. For more info, visit www.SachiRamenBarSB.com.

In North County, robata has been spotted at pop-ups by Nick Priedite and Brendan Dawn of Priedite BBQ at Bell’s and Bar Le Cote. Let’s hope this becomes a frequent thing. Check the calendar at www.PriediteBBQ.com or follow them on Instagram @prieditebarbecue.

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 27

28 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

Celebrating Alisos Canyon AVA And the Incredible Past, Present and Future to Come WORDS BY

Sonya Magdevski

PHOTOGRAPHY AND MAPS BY STEVEN BROWN

When

Noah Rowles purchased Thompson Vineyard back in 2014, he was seeking a respite to raise his young family away from the noise of Los Angeles, where he grew up. He longed for open space, a smaller community and a connection to his neighbors. His mother is a Master Gardener, he had been surrounded by the nurturing magic of plants his whole life, but the rigors of owning a vineyard were not part of his vision for a renewed stress-free existence.

He intended to move his family to this 250-acre ranch and continue employing Coastal Vineyard Care & Associates (CVCA) to manage farming for the 42-acre vineyard planted in 1989–91. The fruit was primarily sold to longtime winemaking clients, making owning a vineyard even more attractive. Still, being a founder and former CEO of a global software company, Rowles sensed he needed to ask a few questions before fully settling in.

“I wanted this to be our home, and the vineyard happened to come along with it,” Rowles said. “And it wasn’t a negative.

I have always been a wine lover, and I love the outdoors, connecting with the earth and the land. It was a huge opportunity for me to learn something.”

He consulted with Jeff Newton, one of the founders of CVCA who planted the vineyard, and asked the top three things he’d recommend Rowles do to improve what was already there were. “Jeff strongly suggested that the Alisos Canyon area needed its own American Viticultural Area (AVA),” Rowles recalled. “Jeff said it had been difficult to find someone motivated to take on that project. It is a long, arduous process.

And that was my prompt. He recommended I connect with Wes Hagen. Wes was supportive and believed the same thing, and we started working together.”

Before he even closed escrow on the property, Rowles arranged a meeting with Hagen at The Hitching Post restaurant.

Hagen had successfully written three previously approved AVA petitions (Sta. Rita Hills, Happy Canyon and the Los Olivos

District), and his knowledge of the area runs deep. It is safe to say Hagen, currently brand ambassador for Miller Family Wines, loves this stuff. He brought two older vintages of Syrah produced from Thompson Vineyard fruit to the dinner—a 1997 and 1998, as Rowles recalls—and the rest is AVA history.

After conducting extensive research for more than three years with the requisite climatologists and geologists to determine diurnal shifts, growing degree day differences, the topography of the canyon expanse, soil types and human interaction/ intervention, they finalized their conclusions for Alisos Canyon.

They submitted their proposal to the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau in 2017. Comprised of 5,774 acres that gently drape across both sides of Alisos Canyon Road between U.S. Highway 101 and Foxen Canyon Road, the area currently has nine established vineyards that predominantly grow Rhône varieties. The region is 20 miles east of the Pacific Ocean within the larger east-west-oriented Los Alamos Valley and experiences foggy mornings, warm afternoons and cold nights. Soil types are sand, shale, limestone and flint that complement an extended grape-growing season that can stretch into December.

Had previous attempts to create a Los Alamos Valley AVA come to fruition, Alisos Canyon would have become a subAVA of its potential parent. (As an aside, I have the paperwork collected by Dale Hampton for his work championing a Los Alamos Valley AVA that never garnered enough support from the stakeholders at the time. Hampton, some may recall, spearheaded the creation of the Santa Maria Valley AVA in 1981, the second in California after Napa Valley, among so many other things.) Before approval, Alisos Canyon existed in a gorgeous vacuum, an intimate corridor of rolling hills beloved by those in the know, relatively anonymous to the outside world. The area did not fall within any of Santa Barbara’s six AVAs. Only the larger Santa Barbara County district appellation was suitable for wine label approval. The creation of Alisos Canyon was a perfect next step. It just needed Noah Rowles to advocate and to fund

Opposite: The Alisos Canyon AVA crosses both sides of Alisos Canyon Road from Highway 101 to Foxen Canyon Road.

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 29

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the cause. Federal approval of the Alisos Canyons AVA arrived in late August 2020. Rowles’s planned celebrations were put on pause for the moment.

“The Alisos Canyon AVA is so unique,” Rowles said.

“For the whole of the Los Alamos Valley, you have Grüner Veltliner and Riesling growing on the west side and Syrah and Cabernet on the other end, where we are. For such a small area, the diversity is so vast here. Par for the course for Santa Barbara County. This is one of the main reasons I thought it was worthwhile to create the AVA. I’ve heard from winemakers and estates that it has allowed consumers to intentionally select wines from this area. This has huge value. It has brought much-needed attention to this very quiet place. It isn’t on the tourist map. And while we’d like to keep it quiet, it is nice to identify it for people looking to experience our wines.”

As we belatedly celebrate in this magazine this seventh addition to our American Viticultural Areas with Alisos Canyon, I am reflecting on how I started this endeavor to 30 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

Saarloos + Sons El Camino Real

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track AVA history in the first place. When I began in 2015, it was only Santa Maria, Santa Ynez Valley, Sta. Rita Hills, Happy Canyon and Ballard Canyon on the designated map.

Los Olivos District was still pending approval (2016). The idea came when a colleague brought a bottle of estate-grown Sanford & Benedict Cabernet Sauvignon vintage 1976 to a wine gathering.

Let that sit with you for a moment.

Sanford & Benedict was the first vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills before there was a Sta. Rita Hills AVA. The Santa Rita Hills was a place where ranchers, bean and barley farmers and flower growers worked the land. It was unique farmland, though the future accolades for coveted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vineyards weren’t even twinkles in anyone’s eyes.

Back in the late 1960s, when Richard Sanford and Michael Benedict hatched their partnership, ranchers simply snickered.

These two Santa Barbara sailing buddies with a taste for fine wine—one a geologist and Vietnam war veteran, the other a

SOURCE : SANTA BARBAR A VINTNERS

R d.

ALISOS CANYON AVA 101

Rd. n yon

Santa Maria

Top: The impressive entrance to Nolan Vineyards. Bottom: Nolan Vineyards seen from Alisos Canyon Road.

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 31

Martian Ranch Vineyard.

Dovecote at Thompson Vineyard.

32 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

Alisos Canyon is a lovely stretch of rolling hills and picturesque vistas.

Rancho Los Alamos Vineyard.

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 33

botanist—were looking for investors to build a future.

The pair did their research and conducted in-depth investigations. They were looking for locations with ample sunshine, cool temperatures and maritime influences, aka “refrigerated sunshine,” that mirrored French wine-growing regions. One high-tech scientific study consisted of driving around the Santa Rita Hills in an old Mercedes with a thermometer taped to it, looking to locate a zone where the mercury didn’t rise above 80°F most days.

They bought vineyard cuttings from Uriel Nielson in Santa Maria, who planted his vineyard in 1964 with some success.

Ten cents a cutting for Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling. They took these cuttings to a spot near the beach to root them before transferring to their future vineyard site off Santa Rosa Road in 1971. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were planted the following year. Eventually, the Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling and Merlot on the property were grafted over in the 1980s. The area was deemed a bit too refrigerated to ripen these varieties.

When I sipped that lovely 1976 Cabernet Sauvignon, it was going back in time, tasting dreams, youth and determination, tangibly experiencing history with every sense we humans have.

Today the idea of Cabernet Sauvignon grown in Santa Rita Hills is the stuff of memoirs, along with the Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc and Gewürztraminer that were also once planted. The entire landscape has changed and will continue to do so. More AVAs will be created when new voices stake a claim. Riesling has recently been re-introduced in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. There is also a tiny planting of Koshu, a Japanese variety.

The story of the AVAs is the story of land, wine, trends and the people, places and things that cultivate its evolution, oftentimes against all odds. But regardless of the hard work and romance, wine is a product that is bought and sold. The basic question always remains: With so much distraction and selection in the marketplace, how valuable are these distinctive AVAs to the consumer?

I decided to ask our preeminent Santa Barbara wine expert Matt Kettmann, editor for Wine Enthusiast and The Santa Barbara Independent, who regularly tastes 200–300 wines from the Central Coast each month, for his perspective.

How valuable are AVAs for the industry and the consumer?

I think they are incredibly valuable the deeper you get into appreciating wine. It is not something that the average entry-level wine consumer is going to care too much about.

The more you get into it, it is another layer of education and information you can add into your appreciation of wines.

What do you think it provides to understanding a sense of place?

It can be as much or as little of the story as you want it to be. You can delineate what sets them [AVAs] apart through elevation and soil types, different aspects and microclimates. Even in the smallest of districts, and even in vineyards themselves, you are going to have differences 34 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

of soil and aspect. It just depends on how granular you want to get. I think they are useful, particularly for understanding what grapes excel in certain places, but just like any field where experts are involved, the more you know, the more you realize how little you know. While we know the Sta. Rita Hills AVA is great for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, we are also learning it is great for Syrah and Grenache and maybe Grüner Veltliner. I think it is a mistake to take the appellations themselves as some sort of word from the Divine. Then you throw in winemaker personality, and you can make completely different wine from the same grapes.

When you look at a place like Santa Barbara County, this is a big region that struggled for years to figure out what grows best where. So AVAs are a kind of tip sheet. And a lot of the AVAs are place names, too. The AVA creation process relates to historic names. We can’t just make up a name. It has to relate to some sort of geographic sense. Also, it involves history and people and all of this is as much a part of the terroir itself as the physical attributes. This is sometimes overlooked as people constantly debate what terroir is.

Do you think the Alisos Canyon AVA filled a gap in our region?

Yes. You had the Santa Maria Valley and the Santa Ynez Valley and several sub-appellations within the Santa Ynez Valley that got more and more specific over time. Our region, because of the way it is shaped east to west with the opening to the ocean on one end, there are fairly distinct differences as you move inland. A Los Alamos Valley AVA would have predated an Alisos Canyon AVA, but because of potential politics involving the larger vineyard owners in the past in Los Alamos, they did not want to go that route. I think Alisos Canyon provides a tight argument for a defined canyon that is a unique space that doesn’t involve that many vineyards. It deserves its recognition. Obviously, this involves money and politics and people who will drive their car to get to the area more than anything. I am all for AVAs. Since the Santa Ynez Valley has so many sub-AVAs embedded within it, do you think the Santa Ynez Valley AVA has run its course?

No, because people will still make blends that reflect the Santa Ynez Valley. There will also be a desire to maintain older names like that. I don’t think we are there yet though we may see a return to promoting Santa Ynez Valley as a whole versus just the sub-AVAs. What I think Santa Barbara County should have done, way back when, was have conjunctive labeling so that everybody would have known that all of these little places are from Santa Barbara because people don’t know that around the country.

Sonja Magdevski is winemaker/owner of Casa Dumetz Wines, Clementine Carter and The Feminist Party wine brands and spends a lot of time in her tasting room in Los Alamos when she isn’t at the winery or investigating her next story.

Santa Barbara County American Viticultural Areas

101

Santa Maria

Sa

S ANTA BARBA R A COUNT Y

n Lu is Ob

ALISOS CANYON AVA

isp o

101

Los Alamos Lompoc

246

154 246

1 101

1

Sant a Maria

Lake Cachuma

154

Santa Barbara

1 Santa Maria Valley AVA 101

American Viticultural Area (AVA) 1. Santa Maria Valley (Established in 1981)

2. Santa Ynez Valley (Established in 1983)

3. Sta. Rita Hills (Established in 2001)

4. Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara (Established in 2009)

LOS ALAMOS

5. Ballard Canyon

7

VALLE Y

(Established in 2013)

Alisos Canyon

6. Los Olivos District (Established in 2016)

AVA

L os A la mos

7. Alisos Canyon (Established in 2020)

101

2 Santa Ynez Valley

Sta. Rita Hills AVA

246

Los Olivos

Ballard Canyon

AVA

AVA Buellton

6

Los Olivos District

AVA Santa Ynez

4 Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara AVA

246

Solvang 154

1

Lake Cachuma

San 1

101

Top Wine Grape Varietals Planted (Acres) 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

S a n ta B a rb a ra

Pinot Noir (5504) Chadonnay (4176) Syrah (1233) Sauvignon Blanc (785) Cabernet Sauvignon (473) Misc. Red (470)

7. Grenache (377) 8. Misc. Whites (321) 9. Pinot Gris (303) 10. Merlot (255) 11. Viognier (160) 12. Mourvedre (119)

SOURCE : SANTA BARBAR A VINTNERS

3

Lompoc

154

5

ta B arb ara

36 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

edible Communities |

S IG N AT U RE

S E C T ION

IS PLASTIC WASTE THE COST OF EATING? STO RY

BY

E M I LY

PAY N E

A N D

DA N I E LLE

N I E R E N B E R G

About a year ago, a comedian—not a scientist or environmentalist—enlightened consumers about a product they use every day that is harmful to the planet.

“A lot less plastic winds up getting recycled than you might think,” John Oliver said on that particular episode of Last Week

recycling bins or items that are not clean—the most common culprit is food residue.

Tonight, which has now been viewed more than 4 million times.

Further, recycling facilities are often underfunded and over-

In the United States and Canada, less than 9 percent of plastics

whelmed. In 2018, China stopped importing most plastic waste

is recycled. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection

from both the U.S. and Canada. That ban upended recycling

Agency (EPA), packaging comprises the largest percent of U.S.

systems that relied on exports, and neither country has been

plastic waste. Since the pandemic disrupted curbside pickup

successful in building a domestic recycling market.

and put more emphasis on single-use products, especially in food service, these numbers have only worsened.

Consumers often see plastic food packaging as the cost of eating: tubs of salad greens; clear clamshells for berries; and even, pre-wrapped cucumbers and other produce.

And while many plastics are recyclable, they still end up in landfills, oceans and, ultimately, in our bodies.

Now, however, in an exciting wave of innovation, businesses and entrepreneurs are rethinking how to package food.

For example, Stamford, Connecticut made $95,000 selling recyclables in 2017; after 2018, it paid $700,000 for removal.

And Bakersfield, California, earned $65 per ton from recyclables; it now pays $25 a ton to get rid of them.

The recycling system is also wrought with environmental injustice. “Recycling facilities are predominantly built in marginalized communities, in part due to the traditional invisibility of and bias against low-income communities of color and Indigenous peoples,” says Nilda Mesa, director of urban sustainability and equity planning at Columbia University’s Center for

RE A L LY RE CYC L E D? “Much food packaging is made from plastic, and most plastics

Sustainable Urban Development.

Amid pressure to transform the recycling system, experts are

are never recycled—though the plastics industry has long worked

advocating for circularity in food packaging. Circular systems pre-

to convince us otherwise,” says Dianna Cohen, co-founder and

vent waste from reaching recycling facilities by implementing strat-

CEO of the Plastic Pollution Coalition.

egies to reuse and repurpose plastics already created. A shift in this

One-quarter of packaging reaching recycling facilities is

direction requires the food industry to rethink packaging materials

contaminated and, thus, sent to landfills, the EPA estimates.

and to consider what the reuse and disposal of plastics (eventually)

Contamination can occur from contact with non-recyclables in

would look like, especially for packaging that is compostable.

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 37 ediblecommunities.com

“The real game changer will be when people buy less plastic, reuse what they have and minimize what goes in the trash and into recycling,”

CO M P OSTA BL E I S CO MP L I C AT E D Unilever and PepsiCo include compostable packaging as part of their strategies to reduce waste. Chipotle and Sweetgreen use

“Along with the innovation in more sustainable packaging, pricing has come down dramatically, and it’s only a small premium to conventional or fossil fuel-based packaging now,” Gailmor says.

Ecovative’s technology upcycles farming and forestry byproducts

compostable material for take-out meals.

Compostables are made of plant-based materials—corn, starch or sugarcane—unlike plastics derived from petroleum.

Compostable packaging isn’t always sustainable, though. Without the right infrastructure, pricing and awareness, compostables can contribute to the food packaging waste problem.

through mycelium to create plastic-free and home-compostable products for the food, leather, beauty, foam and packaging industries.

Gailmor is hopeful that more options can be available at large scale as consumer demand rises.

“If you’d asked me two years ago, I wouldn’t have been as enthu-

“Compostable is often referring to packaging that must be

siastic,” says Gailmor, “but I am very confident now.” Consumer

transported to an industrial composting facility—which it often

demand drives innovation, lower prices and more sustainable op-

isn’t, and just ends up in a landfill versus recycled,” says Emily

tions for small businesses like Brass Roots, but the onus can’t be only

Stucker, vice president of menu innovation and product integrity

on eaters.

at Farmer’s Fridge.

This is, in part, because composting facilities are not available nationally. Mixing compostables into curbside bins can contaminate recycling streams. Throwing compostables in the trash gets them sent to landfills, where they emit methane.

When proper infrastructure and education are in place, processing compost can be sustainable, especially given that munici-

T H E POWE R O F PRO CU RE ME NT One powerful solution is for government and institutional procurement practices to help reduce or eliminate plastic packaging.

“We can do this on an individual level and also need to support systems shifts, from our schools to our workplaces to policy and legislation,” says Cohen.

San Francisco, California, was one of the first cities to make a

palities pay for waste processing by weight.

“A municipality that can figure out how to minimize its organic

zero-waste commitment in 2003—it diverts 80 percent of its waste

waste stream will be saving funds over the long run, as well as cutting

from landfills. Vendors use either compostable or recyclable contain-

greenhouse gas emissions and producing material that will enrich

ers, and every event must offer recycling and composting. The city

soils… It’s a win all over,” says Mesa. But only if they can afford it.

also requires individuals and businesses to separate waste into recy-

“We would have loved to be in all compostable packaging from

clable, compostable and trash bins.

the beginning, but for a small company starting out, pricing for

“Moving away from single-serve meals and snacks is probably the

small runs and guaranteed shelf life for new products with un-

most impactful way to reduce packaging waste in an institutional

known velocity can be prohibitive,” says Logan Farley, chief operat-

setting,” says the Center for Good Food Purchasing, a nonprofit that

ing officer at Brass Roots, a plant-based snack company based in

aims to use procurement to build a more equitable food system.

According to the Center, buying bulk items can help institu-

New Orleans, Louisiana.

tions reduce both packaging waste and food waste—a win for tight IF T HE P RI C E I S R I GH T

budgets, too.

Food businesses consider pricing, shelf life and quality of pre-

For example, many elementary school districts are required to

sentation for packaging, and it’s been cheaper to choose plastic

serve milk which is distributed in single-serve cartons. Students take

packaging. Brass Roots Founder Aaron Gailmor believes the tide

a carton, drink some or none of it and throw it in the trash. But

is turning, however.

when the Austin Independent School District in Texas transitioned

38 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

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EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 39

40 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 41

42 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

to bulk milk, they reduced so much waste that it was able to transi-

NatureSeal coating combines vitamins, salts and minerals to extend

tion to all organic milk for the same cost of single-serve cartons.

the shelf life of sliced fruits for up to 28 days.

Other institutions are increasing demand for sustainable food

Meanwhile, Notpla aims to eliminate the need for single-use

services—within the Center’s partner institutions, there has been a

plastic bottles. Its condiments and water sachets are made from

more than 30 percent increase in environmentally sustainable pur-

seaweed, which can be composted or actually eaten. And Sway’s

chasing over the last few years.

seaweed packaging integrates seamlessly with existing machinery, eliminating the costs for manufacturers.

LEA D I N G T H E WAY

Gupta-Fonner’s waste-free delivery service aims to do the fun-

Meanwhile, some of the largest industry players are tackling packaging and plastic waste internally.

damental work of building a circular supply chain from the ground up. For her, waste is an issue of design. “Linear supply chains are not

In 2021, Driscoll’s diverted more than 10 million pounds of packaging from landfills. The company’s circular clamshell initiative

designed for this,” says Gupta-Fonner.

Designing the infrastructure for circularity—a system that in-

requires packaging suppliers to incorporate recycled clamshells back

herently limits waste—can create an easy and affordable choice for

into new clamshells.

all eaters.

Clover Sonoma released the first fully plant-based milk carton in 2022. Meanwhile, Danone aims to make every piece of packaging reusable, recyclable or compostable by 2025.

PACKAG E LE SS E AT ING There’s no silver bullet to solving the food packaging crisis. It’s

This focus on waste reduction can drive investment in better sorting infrastructure, reducing widespread contamination and making recycling easier for all.

complex and requires both top-down solutions and bottom-up changes by consumers and businesses.

“The real game changer will be when people buy less plastic, reuse

“Private industry has the opportunity to create the demand to kickstart or revive strong and stable recycling end markets for the

what they have and minimize what goes in the trash and into recycling,” says Mesa.

circular economy, and we hope more brands and manufacturers will

Cohen recommends prioritizing unpackaged food. Whole

step up to the design and sourcing challenge,” says Camille Herrera,

Foods, Sprouts and co-ops allow customers to purchase bulk food

packaging development and sustainability manager at Driscoll’s.

More than 70 brands have committed to the One Step Closer to Zero Waste Packaging campaign, which launched in January 2022. It aims to improve infrastructure, labeling and the responsibility of producers.

in reusable containers, while zero-waste shops are becoming more common across the country. And farmers’ markets offer a way to avoid plastics in grocery.

Kroger partnered with TerraCycle to test a reusable packaging program in 25 Fred Meyer stores. Customers will be able to pur-

The campaign also supports the Break Free from Plastic Pollu-

chase products from brands like Arbor Teas, Nature’s Heart and Na-

tion Act. It mandates reduced production of a variety of materials,

ture’s Path in reusable containers that they can return to be cleaned

including plastic, and requires producers of packaging, containers

and reused.

and food service products to boost recycling and composting efforts.

If unpackaged foods or reusable containers aren’t available, Co-

Companies that fundamentally change the way they think about

hen says to choose easily recyclable materials like paper, glass and

packaging, rather than simply swapping plastics for another single-

metal. Consumers can also look for products with instructions on

use material, can build true circularity.

how to dispose of their packaging.

“To make any kind of single-use packaging including composta-

“If you want true systemic change, it means taking a stand against

bles, you’re using precise raw materials, energy and water,” says

things that derail the broader conversation, just like you take a stand

Anukampa Freedom Gupta-Fonner, co-founder and CEO of Spr-

for the organizations that are actually solving the problem,” says Gup-

ingEats.com, an online grocery store achieving zero-waste delivery

ta-Fonner.

from farm to table.

There also is the need for a cultural shift. “When you acknowledge that there are resources, natural elements and actually pieces

Z ERO PAC KAGI N G

of real life and habitats that went into making this packaging,” says

The best way to reduce packaging waste, though, is by using no

Gupta-Fonner, “then reuse is compassion.”

packaging at all.

Apeel makes plant-derived coatings that growers, suppliers and retailers use to keep produce fresh two to three times longer. And

edible Communities |

S IG N AT U RE

S E C TI O N

Emily Payne is Food Tank’s copy editor, and Danielle Nierenberg is the president and co-founder of Food Tank.

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 43 For more on this story, visit ediblecommunities.com

edible

SANTA BARBAR A

2022

& WINE COUNTRY

BENIDIC T83

ARTWORK CONTEST

AND THE

Winners

ARE…

Edible Santa Barbara

WINE LABEL ARTWORK CONTEST

Can

you judge a wine by its label? Perhaps not, but it is certainly part of the whole package when it comes to selecting and enjoying a bottle. So we asked three design professionals to judge wine labels based on artistic quality and graphic design for our second annual Wine Label Artwork Contest. In order to showcase local artistic design, the contest was open only to wineries in Santa Barbara County. There were so many excellent submissions and so much variety that we had to break them down by category. Kudos to these winning labels and many thanks to all who entered. You can see an expanded list of all the entries on our website (www.EdibleSantaBarbara.com/ Wine2022). There is no shortage of talent in Santa Barbara County on the outside (or inside) of the wine bottles.

TREAD 2019 PINOT NOIR

Best Concept Overall

Design by Leo Basica. The judges loved the idea and the execution of every element of this label. The abstract artwork plays off the name of the wine—the image simultaneously taking the viewer up to a lofty aerial view of the vineyard and down to the boots in the soil. Subtle and distinctive. Spare yet emotional. Tread Wines focus on Burgundian varietals Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, sourcing grapes from vineyards such as Sierra Madre, Bien Nacido and La Encantada. www.TreadWines.com

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 45

Best Modern Classic

HAND ON HEART 2020 CABERNET SAUVIGNON Design by Denomination. Captivating at first glance. One judge said they immediately wanted to know all about it.

More than one judge thought “Alcohol Removed” was a fine designation, rather than “Alcohol Free,” and this wine bottle would look right at home at even the most sophisticated wine bar or tasting event.

Just as their wine promotes balance, wellness and harmony, the well-composed design of the label is both engaging and elegant. www.HandOnHeartWine.com

Best Traditional with a Twist MARGERUM 2018 MUTE-AGE Design and illustration by Tom Adler and Evan Backes.

Judges praised this logo for managing to be classy and whimsical at the same time. There’s a clever word play on the name. Mutage is a winemaking term for making sweet wines by adding a high-proof, neutral grape spirit to the wine before fermentation is complete to preserve some of the natural sugars of the grapes. Margerum describes their Mute-Age as “silently baking and aging in 34-liter demijohns on the Margerum Wine Company roof.” www.MargerumWines.com

46 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

Most Elegant

ALMA ROSA 2020 STA. RITA HILLS PINOT NOIR Design by Stars Align. The luxurious metallic foil lettering and edging caught the attention of the judges, who praised this label for its beautiful rendering of the Santa Rita Hills in a subtle, abstract way. They felt the deep, rich colors reflected the depth and richness of the Pinot Noir, and the label was evocative of the terroir. www.AlmaRosaWinery.com

Best Typography

CARHARTT 2019 GRENACHE Design by Sebastian Fraye and Megan Kearney. Judges loved this fun, clever label and praised the way it conveyed a lot of information without feeling cluttered. The use of vintage typography gives the design a surprisingly modern flair.

One judge said that it conveys a wine made with intention. Indeed. Carhartt says that they carefully place every single detail on the label—from the perforation to the color—to showcase exactly who they are, and what they stand for. www.CarharttFamilyWines.com

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 47

Most Meaningful

LA LIEFF 2021 ROSÉ Design by Janine Wareham. Judges thought this label exuded a sense of joy and heartfelt passion for great wine and the women winemakers behind it. The beautiful illustration, front and center, tells the whole story without having to shout. Gretchen Lieff, founder and president, is joined by winemakers Kris Curran, Lauren Rava and Sally Sigouin, along with an all-female crew. They chose Gaia, the Goddess of the Earth, to represent their commitment to the natural world—tapping into her nurturing energy and the bounty of the fruit of the vine that connects us all via wine. www.LaLieffWines.com

Best Illustration

Illustration by Thomas Van Stein. Judges really appreciated the clever play on words that this beautiful drawing conveyed. They also complimented the appropriate use of the quill-style typeface and the distinctive deckled edge. Owner and winemaker Ryan Carr said the labels were inspired by the antique winemaking equipment he and his dad have collected over the years. Local Santa Barbara artist Thomas Van Stein used the crosshatch technique to draw the image of the barrels. And the wine in this bottle is made using two of the most “textural” grape varietals: Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. www.CrossHatchWinery.com

48 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

MAT T DAYK A

CROSSHATCH TEXTURE 2018

CARR RED WINE GROWLER Illustration by Jon Carr. Technically, this isn’t a label at all. But judges couldn’t help calling it out as a welcome sustainable approach to selling a bottle of wine. Judges found the illustration printed directly on the glass to be a lovely and appealing option.

For Carr’s wine on tap, the winemaking process is exactly the same, but instead of going from barrel to bottle, it goes barrel to keg. At the tasting room, they offer wine on tap by the glass or to take home in these stylish one-liter growers.

Most Sustainable Bottle

MAT T DAYK A

www.CarrWinery.com

Most Contemporary The Joy Fantastic

THE JOY FANTASTIC 2020 CHARDONNAY Design by Michael Kirts. The landscape and botanical paintings with the type convey a sense of place, as well as a balance between tranquility and excitement thanks to the bold letterforms and dynamic color palette. One judge called it a contemporary classic that is stunningly beautiful. The Joy Fantastic wines come from the owners’ five-acre certified organic estate in western Santa Rita Hills. www.TheJoyFantastic.com

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 49

2020

DOVECOTE 2020 REDTAIL

Most Eye Catching

The original hawk artwork, titled “Sky Father” (ink on hide), was created by tattoo artist David Hale. The artwork was digitally adapted and the label designed by Noah Rowles in conjunction with design firm Makers & Allies. The judges praised the intricacy of this stunning geometric illustration. One judge pointed out that the notches at the sides are purposeful, and there is no question that this would command attention on a retail wine shelf. The wine is a tribute to the lords of the sky at the Dovecote estate— their numerous resident families of beautiful red-tailed hawks. www.DovecoteWine.com

There’s more! To see all the entries, visit www.EdibleSantaBarbara.com/Wine2022.

Many thanks to the judges: Harriet Eckstein, Jennifer LeMay and Michael Nicola.

—Krista Harris

50 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

join us!

Santa Barbara

Vintners

A RT W O R K : B E V E R L E Y B A R B E R

Festival ———--——-——-

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 8, 2022 1PM - 4PM M ission s anta i nes s olvang , C alifornia

———--——-——for tickets and information

Santa BarBara

Vintners

www.sbvintnersweekend.com

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 51

Storing Wine AT HOME

TIPS FOR YOUR

WORDS BY

If

Hanna-Lee Sedgwick

you enjoy drinking wine on occasion, chances are you have a couple bottles on hand—maybe even a couple dozen. While it seems harmless enough to store a few bottles in the fridge or on a rack in your living room, you might not realize that the places you stash your bottles can make or break the taste and quality of your wine. If you’ve ever experienced the disappointment of opening a bottle of wine at home only to find it damaged or flawed, then you know it’s a real bummer.

Luckily, there are several precautions you can take to maintain the quality of your wine and ensure it stays tasting great, whether you plan to drink it in a month or in a few years.

52 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

WINE STORAGE 101 If you purchased a bottle at a wine shop and plan to drink it later that night or the next day, you don’t have to worry too much about where you store it, as long as it’s not left in your hot car all day or sitting beside a hot oven (more on that later). However, if you have a special bottle on hand, or one that you plan to keep for a while, how you store it is a crucial factor in how the wine will taste later. Of course, having a cellar or wine fridge is great, but you don’t necessarily have to invest in a temperature-controlled storage solution to keep your wine happy, you just need to be mindful of a few things. Here are some tips for storing wine at home.

TIP: FIND A COOL, STABLE ENVIRONMENT

Wine deteriorates much faster when stored at room temperature (around 70°) than in a cool, stable environment, so find a cool place in your house where the temperature stays relatively consistent, ideally around 55°.

You want to avoid a hot environment because heat can take an extreme toll on wine, increasing the wine’s aging rate in an undesirable way and prematurely oxidizing the wine so it tastes old, flat or cooked. On the flip side, cold temperatures can actually stunt the aging process, but more importantly, an environment that’s too cold can cause the liquid inside the bottle to expand as it freezes, putting pressure on the cork (or bursting the bottle altogether) and damaging the wine.

TIP: AVOID LIGHT

Just as wine thrives in cooler, stable environments, it also likes to hole up in dark places, away from direct light. There’s a reason why underground wine cellars have been the rage since, well, the early days of wine!

Too much exposure to light can actually alter a wine’s chemical makeup, specifically the compounds and molecules that allow wine to age gracefully, damaging the aromas, taste and structure of the juice. That’s why wine bottles, especially those for red and/or age-worthy wines, are usually dark green or amber colored, which helps minimize the amount of light exposure.

most inexpensive bottles (under $25 or so) are made to be drunk young, so plan to enjoy those within a year or so. And when it comes to wine type, some varietals are particularly known for their age-ability, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling and Nebbiolo, but just note that ageworthiness can vary greatly based on producer and region.

When in doubt, the best way of discerning a wine’s aging potential is to consult the people who know the wine best: the vintners and winemakers themselves. Don’t hesitate to go straight to the source to ask; most producers are more than happy to share their insights.

In conclusion, when it comes to storing wine at home, it really comes down to three things: temperature, humidity and light. Find a cool, dark spot—like a hall closet or basement—that won’t fluctuate in temperature too much, and your wines will likely be just fine. If your wine collection is starting to take over your entire house, however, then it may be time to invest in proper storage so you can rest easy knowing your wine is primed for the long haul.

Hana-Lee Sedgwick is a Santa Barbara native who writes about wine, food and travel. As a freelance writer, editor and wine consultant, she happily spends her downtime eating, drinking and wandering, documenting it on her blog, Wander & Wine.

TIP: KEEP THE CORK WET

Over time, a dry cork gets porous and allows air to seep in, and air is no good for unopened wine. Storing bottles on their side ensures the wine stays up against the cork, keeping it moistened and intact by preventing it from drying out and letting oxygen in.

TIP: CONSIDER HUMIDITY LEVELS

Humidity is also an important thing to consider when storing wine, particularly those bottles with corks versus screw tops. As mentioned above, a dry cork can damage the juice inside, so if the outside of the cork dries out, it will also allow air in and oxidize the wine. Storing your wine in a location with 65–75% humidity is ideal. That means avoiding keeping wine in your fridge for long periods of time, as it lacks proper humidity levels, as well as in places like the laundry room, which fluctuates in both temperature and humidity.

TIP: DO YOUR RESEARCH ON A WINE’S LIFELINE

What if you’ve found a great spot to store your wine, but you’re wondering how long to keep it lying down? Well, how long you “age” a wine is up to you, but there are a few factors to consider—like price and varietal. While a high price tag doesn’t always equate to an age-worthy bottling,

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54 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

Picnic on the Riviera WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Pascale Beale

“Wherever it is done, picnicking can be one of the supreme pleasures of outdoor life. At its most elegant, it calls for the accompaniment of the best linens and crystal and china; at its simplest, it needs only a bottle of wine and items purchased from the local delicatessen as one passes through town. The color and charm of the countryside can make the most modest meal taste superb. Have a picnic at the slightest excuse. It is even fun to have a box lunch and a hot drink in the car on a wintry day, while you look out at a dazzling stretch of landscape.”

—James Beard, James Beard’s Menus for Entertaining, c.1965

When

I read about James Beard’s exuberant love of outdoor meals, I cannot help but think of my Uncle Yves, a bon vivant and grand gourmet if ever there was one. All meals in my aunt and uncle’s home were approached with a dedication to planning and with such gusto that one could not help but be swept up in the preparation and ultimate consummation.

Upholding a century-long family tradition of grand dining is something every subsequent generation has taken very seriously, whether the meal be indoors or out. Even picnics taken on eight-hour-long epic mountain hikes took judicious organization. The meal, bottles of wine included, was carefully packed into the backpacks of everyone present. And it was only consumed once a suitable spot had been chosen—preferably near a stream of alpine water or mountain lake in which the wine had been properly chilled.

The children carried less precious, although still essential, cargo: butter, radishes, baguettes. The older you got, the more important the victuals, the heavier the pack. This was, as with all things food-related in my family, important business.

My French grandparents had long perfected the art of le piquenique by the time I was born. It was a finely orchestrated dance into the countryside. These outdoor excursions took on gargantuan proportions, akin to moving a small platoon

complete with regulation tables, seating, linens, silverware, china, glasses, etc.

The meal would be commensurate with the occasion.

An abundant selection of salads, herb omelets, chilled meats, roasted chickens, plateaus of cheese, baguettes, fougasse, saucisson, pâtés, melon and prosciutto, fresh fruit, tea cakes, madeleines and fresh coffee. All this washed down with bottles of rosé, a little Chablis or a lightly chilled Burgundy. The adults all needed a sieste after the feast. Yves Montand singing Ma Bicyclette serenaded us from a little transistor radio. My brother and I chased butterflies and picked wildflowers. I think Mr. Beard would have felt at ease.

Lest my French relations feel that they had cornered the market on how to dine outdoors in style, the English side of my family manifested a certain skill set when it came to entertaining in nature — although often in more inclement weather. More than once we had to hurriedly repack hampers as the heavens opened up.

Whereas in France our picnics took on a more gastronomic flair, in England they were often more eccentric— including a regular outing to Highgate Cemetery, where we played I Spy behind Karl Marx’s tomb before we regrouped to eat. Hot tea was often the beverage of choice. Though the weather was often cold and damp, our enthusiasm for open-air adventures never waned.

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56 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

In an effort to keep up both sides of the family tradition I continued the practice of Le Grand Piquenique when I moved to California. Among the precious items I lugged across the Atlantic was a copy of Mrs. Beeton’s Book of Household Management.

This book has a treasure trove of information (some tips still valid today and recipes that have stood the test of time) including, under the entry numbered 3026 in the 1890 edition, the following suggestion: “One of the pleasantest forms of entertainment is a well-arraigned picnic.” She proceeds to list all that is required, including a suggested luncheon menu for 20 persons. She, my grandmother, aunts and uncles obviously all adhered to the same school of thought:

5 lbs of cold salmon Mayonnaise sauce 1 quarter of lamb Mint Sauce 1 large galantine of veal 2 Boiled chickens 1 Ham 2 Pigeon pies Salad. Dressing.

2 Cucumbers 2 Fruit tarts Pastry sandwiches 2 Jellies 2 Creams Custard 1 gallon strawberries 3 lbs grapes 1 lb cheese 1 ⁄ lb butter 2 4 loaves bread, or rolls Wines

Bottled beer Soda water Lemonade Plates Knives Forks Spoons Glasses Tumblers Tablecloth Serviettes Glass cloths Pepper Cayenne Salt Mustard Oil Vinegar Castor Sugar Corkscrews Champagne opener

Ten years ago, I decided to throw a giant birthday picnic in a vineyard, complete with all the accoutrements. To say that I felt I had a tradition to uphold was an understatement. I followed Mrs. Beeton’s advice and drew on family lore. It was Downton Abbey-esque —minus the footmen.

Ten years on I toyed with the idea of doing this again.

But, as the reality of the logistical task sunk in, I pondered the question: Do all picnics have to resemble Le Diner en Blanc where linen-covered tables are de rigueur? Those picnics all had one thing in common: They were a lot of work. Did I need to drive a few hours to find the idyllic spot? Or load up 10 picnic baskets? Was there a simple way to do this? I could feel my grandmother raising an ancestral eyebrow in concern.

I was mulling this over whilst sitting on a bench in the local park watching the ducks frolic in the pond. I had a flakey croissant in one hand, a piping hot espresso in the other. It occurred

to me at that moment that I was in fact enjoying an impromptu breakfast picnic with nary a tablecloth in sight. The thought made me smile. I walked home.

Later that day I went for another walk. It’s how I solve problems; I’ll mull them over as I wander about. Without any fixed destination in mind, I found myself at the rose garden in front of the Santa Barbara Mission. The bells had just pealed 6 o’clock and the sun painted the hills the sort of pink hue that sends artists racing for their paintbrushes. A patchwork of colorful throws decorated the expanse of the gently sloping lawn like dots on a ladybug.

As I walked past the rose beds I spied little vignettes, outdoor “rooms” created by their occupants. Hidden amongst the bushes, blankets askew, electric bikes piled up, parked side by side creating a mobile barricade, a group of giggling gangly girls feasted on sweet treats; at the base of the lawn an elegantly dressed couple sat facing each other in beach chairs, cheese, crackers and wine on a gingham-covered low table next to them. They smiled as small children rolled down the hillside, as others did handstands around their supine parents. Two pairs of feet suddenly shot up behind an eruption of Julia Child roses, swaying in time with the tottering limbs. The legs disappeared as I rounded the corner where I saw a group of friends, with their jackets used as blankets, laughing at each other’s antics, pizza boxes tossed higgledy-piggledy, grabbing a bite together after a long workday.

I circumnavigated the lawn witnessing the lexicon of picnics: the impromptu, the planned, the celebration, the romantic (complete with matching easels and canvases on which to capture the setting sun), the very grand (three tables festooned with giant bouquets and groaning with food) and the very modest (a bag of chips and a dip).

As I watched, a young couple, two-up on a blue bicycle, circling between the groups, music trailing behind them like streamers, floating out from the tiny speakers lodged in the bike’s basket, until they found the right spot and marked their territory with a neon towel. They parked the bike (niftily acting as a de facto bar and table) and unpacked a smorgasbord of delicious-looking salads. A picnic, obviously, could take on many guises. I rethought the giant feast.

Over the past few months, walking up and down the Riviera, I’ve discovered some hidden gems. Small pocket gardens, little perches (some with great views), little-used parks, charming alcoves and the odd fountain all make charming picnic venues.

Sometimes I’ll pack up some leftovers, take a good book and park myself under a beautiful tree to read and eat. I’ve discovered I also rather like impromptu gatherings. Are you free for dinner I may ask? Shall we meet at…?

As Margaret Visser wrote in The Rituals of Dinner: “Fresh air and natural beauty, adventure, no cooking and no tables and chairs — a good picnic is a thrilling reversal of normal rules … and the freedom we grant ourselves to lounge about on a blanket eating cold food with our hands.” With apologies to my ancestors, this sounds like the perfect recipe.

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RECIPES

Radish, Goat Cheese and Herb Pâté MAKES 4 SERVINGS

6 ounces goat cheese 4–6 radishes, finely chopped 1 tablespoon finely chopped chives 1 tablespoon finely chopped dill 5–6 grinds black pepper

Place all of the ingredients into a food processor fitted with a metal blade.

Using repeated 2- to 3-second pulses, mix the ingredients to form the pâté. The texture should look like a thick, slightly chunky hummus.

Spoon into a mason jar and refrigerate until ready to serve. Eat with baguette, crackers or as part of a raw vegetable platter.

Salmon Rillettes MAKES 4 SERVINGS Olive oil

⁄

1 2

pound skinless salmon fillet (preferably wild)

2 teaspoons Herbes de Poisson (or 1 tablespoon each fennel, coriander and mustard seeds mixed with 1 ⁄2 teaspoon salt)

⁄

1 4

cup (or more) Greek yogurt

1 tablespoon capers 2 tablespoons diced fennel bulb 1 tablespoon finely chopped chives 1 tablespoon finely chopped dill

⁄

1 2

tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Good pinch of salt, 5 grinds black pepper

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the salmon in a small baking dish. Drizzle with a little olive oil, just enough to very lightly coat the salmon. Sprinkle the Herbes de Poisson over the salmon. Bake for 18–20 minutes. The salmon should be just cooked through.

Place the cooked salmon in a mixing bowl. Add all the remaining ingredients to the bowl. Gently mix just to combine the ingredients. You want the salmon to break apart a little.

STE VEN BROWN

Serve with crackers or a baguette.

58 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

Caramelized Onion, Zucchini, Basil and Arugula Galette MAKES 8 SERVINGS

FOR THE PASTRY DOUGH 9 ounces (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour 5 ounces butter, chilled, cut into small pieces.

1 teaspoon thyme leaves, finely chopped 1 large egg Zest of 1 lemon Pinch of salt

FOR THE FILLING Olive oil 3 large yellow onions, peeled, halved and finely sliced Salt and pepper Olive oil 1 pound zucchini, thinly sliced on a bias

⁄

1 2

tablespoon Herbes de Provence

Salt and pepper 4 ounces slightly soft goat cheese, at room temperature 2 tablespoons finely chopped chives

⁄

1 2

cup basil leaves

1 cup baby arugula leaves

Place all the pastry dough ingredients into the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Pulse until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs, then use longer pulses until the dough forms a ball. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

While the dough is resting, pour a little olive oil into a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions, a large pinch of salt and 5–6 grinds of black pepper, stir frequently and cook until the onions are completely soft and slightly golden. This will take at least 15 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Preheat oven to 400°. Pour 2 tablespoons olive oil into a medium-sized mixing bowl. Add the zucchini and Herbes de Provence, 1 ⁄2 teaspoon of salt and 10 grinds pepper. Toss to mix and coat well. Place the zucchini slices onto a sheet pan or shallow baking dish. Roast for 15–20 minutes or until the zucchini are golden in color. Remove from the oven.

Place the unwrapped dough on a lightly floured work surface. Roll out the dough to a 14-inch round, 1 ⁄4 inch thick. The dough edge will be ragged.

That’s OK. Place the dough onto a parchment-lined sheet pan.

Using a spoon, cream together the goat cheese and chives. Spread the mixture over the dough leaving a 1-inch border. Spoon the cooked onions onto the goat cheese and spread them to the edge. Cover the onions with the roasted zucchini. Carefully fold the unadorned pastry edge over the vegetables, pressing gently to enclose the border. Bake in the oven for 30–35 minutes, or until the pastry is a deep golden-brown color.

Once the galette has cooled, scatter the basil and arugula leaves over the top. Leave the galette in the pan for ease of transportation.

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60 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

Berry Verrines MAKES 8 SERVINGS 2 pints strawberries, rinsed clean if necessary, hulled and halved

⁄

2 3

cup sugar

8–10 grinds black pepper Zest and juice of 2 lemons (keep the rinds) 8 ounces mascarpone 1 tablespoon wildflower honey 4 cups assorted berries, sliced 1 cup heavy whipping cream 2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract or vanilla paste 1 4

⁄

cup toasted pecans

⁄

cup sliced almonds

1 4

1 tablespoon powdered sugar

Place the strawberries, sugar, pepper, lemon juice and the squeezedout lemon rinds in a large saucepan placed over medium heat. As the strawberries begin to render some juice, mash the strawberries using a large fork or a potato masher. It’s OK if there are some larger pieces— the jam is not supposed to be completely smooth.

Cook for 10–13 minutes, skimming off any foam that forms on the surface of the jam. The jam is ready when it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. Leave in the saucepan until ready to use. You can leave the lemon rinds in the jam, just don’t eat them unless they are Meyer lemons.

In a small bowl combine the mascarpone, lemon zest and honey.

Divide the mixture into eight pint-sized mason jars.

Spoon a half cup of sliced berries into each jar, on top of the mascarpone mixture.

Whip the cream with the sugar and vanilla extract (or paste) until it holds just firm peaks. You do not want to over-whip the cream. Spoon the whipped cream over the chopped fruit.

Top the whipped cream with a spoonful of the strawberry jam.

In a small bowl combine the toasted pecans, almonds and powdered sugar. Sprinkle the nut mixture over the jam and serve.

Pascale Beale grew up in England and France surrounded by a family that has always been passionate about food, wine and the arts. She was taught to cook by her French mother and grandmother. She is the author of The Menu for All Seasons, Salade II, Les Fruits and Les Legumes. Visit her website and blog: The Market Table at PascalesKitchen.com.

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STEVEN BROWN

COLIN QUIRT

ROB HATHERILL

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SANTA BARBAR A & WINE COUNTRY

SUPPORT LOCAL GUIDE

Now more than ever, it’s important to seek out and support local businesses. Here is our guide of the current advertisers that we fully support and hope you will, too. Visit the websites to get more information about what they offer and any updated hours of operation.

Farms & Ranches Babé Farms 805 925-4144 www.BabeFarms.com Babé Farms boasts a year-round harvest of colorful baby and specialty vegetables, grown in the Santa Maria Valley. Family-owned and -operated, Babé Farms is the “couture” label top chefs and fine retailers look to for their gourmet vegetable needs.

Winfield Farm 805 686-9312 www.WinfieldFarm.us Taste the magic of Winfield Mangalitsa! Mangalitsa ground pork (the real hamburger) and hickory-smoked bacon are now featured in the Larder Meat Company’s Larder Club meat box, delivered monthly throughout California (sign up at www.LarderMeatCo.com). You can also order through our Mangalitsa Market on the Winfield Farm website—please call first! Follow us on Facebook (WinfieldFarmBuellton), Twitter (@WinfieldFarm.us) and Instagram (Winfield_Farm).

Food & Restaurants Bob’s Well Bread 550 Bell St., Los Alamos, CA 805 344-3000 2249 Baseline Ave., Ballard, CA 805 691-9549 www.BobsWellBread.com Now in two locations with convenient online ordering, Bob’s makes bread the old-fashioned way: handcrafted in small batches with the finest ingredients and baked to perfection in a custom-built stone-deck oven. Drop in to taste what visitors and journalists are raving about as “worth the drive” about—signature Pain au Levain, award-winning artisanal breads, croissants and specialty pastries. All-day menu of made-to-order breakfast, lunch and weekly special dishes. Indooroutdoor picturesque café. Los Alamos: Thu–Mon 7am–4pm. Ballard: Thu–Mon 8am–4pm. Café closes at 3pm. Closed Tue and Wed.

62 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

Bree’Osh

Pico

1150 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 969-2500 2700 De la Vina St., Santa Barbara, 805 770-2238 www.Breeosh.com

458 Bell St., Los Alamos 805 344-1122 www.PicoLosAlamos.com

Bree’Osh is a French artisan bakery café specializing in sweet and savory brioche bread made with traditional sourdough. Featuring local, organic, highquality ingredients. Serving breakfast and lunch daily 7am–2pm (kitchen open until 1:30pm).

Located in the historic 1880 General Store, offering a casual dining experience with innovative cuisine made from locally sourced ingredients. The extensive wine list has earned a Wine Enthusiast “Top 100 Wine Restaurant” award two years running. Open Tue–Thu 3–9pm; Fri– Sat noon–10pm; Sun Burger Night noon–9pm.

Chocolate Maya 15 W. Gutierrez St., Santa Barbara 805 965-5956 www.ChocolateMaya.com Chocolate Maya handmade chocolate confections: a variety of velvety truffles and chocolate-dipped temptations that are made from the highest-quality chocolate (Valrhona, Felchlin, Conexion, including small bean-to-bar artisans couverture) fresh local ingredients and exotic findings from their travels overseas. Covid-19 hours noon–5pm every day. Closed on Wednesday.

Il Fustino La Arcada 1100 State St. San Roque Plaza, 3401 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-3521 www.ilFustino.com Il Fustino is Santa Barbara’s first and finest olive oil and vinegar tasting room. Il Fustino purveys only the finest and freshest olive oils, all grown and milled in California. They also provide an unparalleled selection of artisan vinegars. San Roque Plaza: Open Mon–Sun 11am–5pm. La Arcada: Open Thu–Sun noon–4pm.

Olive Hill Farm 2901 Grand Ave., Los Olivos 805 693-0700 www.OliveHillFarm.com Specializing in local olive oils, flavored oils and balsamic vinegars as well as many locally produced food products. Olive oil and vinegar tastings with fresh local bread available. Open Thu–Mon 11am–5pm.

Plow to Porch 805 895-7171 www.PlowToPorch.com Plow to Porch Organics is a local organic/pesticide-free produce and grocery delivery service to members who subscribe. They simplify the purchase of local fresh organic produce and other organic, local foods in order to inspire good nutrition, support local farmers, protect the environment and make eating healthy food fun!

Subscriptions start at $22.50.

Renaud’s Patisserie & Bistro 3315 State St., Santa Barbara 805 569-2400 1324 State St., Santa Barbara 805 892-280 1187 Coast Village Rd., Montecito 805 324-4200 www.RenaudsBistro.com Renaud’s is a bakery specializing in French pastries and French-style cakes, as well as a bistro offering an extensive menu for breakfast and lunch. Open Mon– Sat 7am–4pm; Sun 7am–3pm.

Wine & Beer Au Bon Climat 813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara 805 963-7999 www.AuBonClimat.com The tasting room and the Jim Clendenen Wine Library are known for world-class Chardonnays and Pinots, yet other varietals are available. Jim Clendenen made wines of vision and character for over 30 years.

Amazing lineup of current releases and library wines on hand. Tasting room open Mon–Fri noon–6pm, Sat and Sun 11am–6pm. Outdoor wine tasting daily.

Reservations recommended.

Babi’s Beer Emporium 380 Bell St., Los Alamos 805 344-1911 www.BabisBeerEmporium.com Great beer. Impeccable selection. Great fun.

Adventurous beer drinkers can discover unique, hardto-find craft beers, ciders and special projects—on tap or in bottle. Stay to have a bite from Dim Sama’s menu.

Thu–Sat noon–7pm, Sun noon–6pm, Mon noon–4pm, Tue–Wed by appointment only.

Buttonwood Farm Winery 1500 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang 805 688-3032 www.ButtonwoodWinery.com Since 1983, the vineyard and its award-winning wines have been hand-raised and hand-crafted with the goal of environmental responsibility. The vineyard now has 38,000 vines highlighted by Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc, along with small blocks of Semillon, Grenache Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Grenache, Syrah, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting daily by appointment 11am–3:30pm.

Casa Dumetz 388 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1900 www.CasaDumetzWines.com A boutique winery specializing in Rhône varietals crafted with premier Santa Barbara County fruit. Their wines are sold almost exclusively at their tasting room in historic Los Alamos and through their wine club.

Thu–Sat noon–7pm, Sun noon–6pm, Mon noon–4pm, Tue–Wed by appointment only.

Foxen Vineyard & Winery 7600 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-4251 www.FoxenVineyard.com The Foxen Boys’ winery and tasting room features Burgundian and Rhône-style wines. Visit the historic shack “Foxen 7200” for Italian and Bordeaux-style wines.

Picnic tables and scenic views at both locations. Open daily by reservation.

J. Wilkes Wine 35 State St. Suite B, Santa Barbara 805 456-6376 www.JWilkes.com

outdoor patio seating, with an indoor mezzanine that can host private events. Handcrafted Rhône varietal wines from Margerum Estate Vineyard and from grapes grown at top Santa Barbara County vineyards. All complemented with a simple fare menu—cheese and charcuterie, pizzas, paninis, salads and other foods to complement the wine. The winery in Buellton is open by appointment for wine tasting and winery tours.

Meritage Wine Market 18 W. Anapamu St., Santa Barbara 805 845-0777 SantaBarbara.MeritageWineMarket.com Meritage Wine Market offers the best personal wine experience with the core belief that making great wine is a complex process but choosing one shouldn’t be. They manage their customers’ needs with wine selections specifically chosen for their individual purpose and fulfilling the highest-quality wine within budget. Open Tue–Sat 10am–6pm.

Refugio Ranch Wines 2990 Grand Ave., Los Olivos 805 697-5289 www.RefugioRanch.com Refugio Ranch is a 415-acre former cattle ranch nestled into the Santa Ynez mountains. The 28 acres of vineyards are farmed and harvested by hand, with a focus on low yields and concentration of fruit. Visit the tasting room in Los Olivos—a converted early-1900s warehouse now home to two tasting bars, a VIP lounge and an expansive outdoor deck.

Riverbench Vineyard & Winery 137 Anacapa St., Ste. C., Santa Barbara 805 324-4100 6020 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-8340 Riverbench.com Established in 1973, when the first Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes were planted on the property. For years since then, some of the most renowned wineries have purchased Riverbench fruit for their wines. In 2004, Riverbench began producing their own still and sparkling wines in limited quantities, with many available exclusively through their tasting rooms in Santa Maria and Santa Barbara.

Zaca Mesa Winery 6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos 805 688-9339 www.ZacaMesa.com Since 1973, Zaca Mesa Winery has crafted distinctive wines from their unique mesa-top vineyard. As an early pioneer of the region, they now have 150 acres planted, specializing in the production of estate-grown Rhône-style wines. Tasting room and picnic area open daily 10am–4pm. Call for more information on winery tours and private event space.

Specialty Retail ella & louie www.EllaAndLouie.com Floral designer Tracey Morris has two great loves: flowers and people. Relying on more than 25 years of design experience, Morris helps clients celebrate their big occasions with exquisite and expressive floral arrangements.

Ella & Louie produces a range of looks from classic elegant designs to unusual and stylish. Local delivery.

Professional Services American Riviera Bank 525 San Ysidro Rd., Montecito, 805-335-8110 www.AmericanRivieraBank.com 1033 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara 805 965-5942 www.AmericanRivieraBank.com Offering a local and sustainable approach to banking.

The founders of American Riviera Bank are a carefully selected group of successful, prominent, experienced and influential community and business leaders who understand the unique needs of the Santa Barbara community. Montecito branch open Mon–Thu 9am–5pm; Fri 9am–5:30pm. Santa Barbara branch open Mon–Thu 8am–5pm, Fri 8am–6pm.

Monterey County SeeMonterey.com/Now

SBCC Foundation 805 730-4401 www.SBCCFoundation.org

Sourced from the unique sub-AVAs of California’s Central Coast, J. Wilkes offers an extraordinary range of meticulously crafted wines defined by ocean influence and worthy of exploration.

Roblar Winery and Vineyards

Lafond Winery

Located in an oak-studded 40-acre vineyard in the heart of Santa Barbara County, Roblar Winery and Vineyards reflects the spirit of Santa Ynez Valley—rustic, authentic and bold. They showcase the variety and beauty that Santa Ynez has to offer, with a diverse lineup of delicious wines, a menu of truly farm-to-table, locally sourced foods and their fantastic estate-driven experiences.

The SBCC Foundation was established in 1976 to provide Santa Barbara City College with private philanthropic support. The foundation acts in partnership with the college and bridges the gap between available public funding and institutional need, as determined by the college leadership. The SBCC Foundation provides more than $4 million annually for student success programs, scholarships, book grants and other critical needs of the college in order to support SBCC students as they prepare for careers, transfer to fouryear universities and pursue lifelong learning goals.

Santa Barbara Winery

SEEAG

28 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara 805 963-3633 www.SBWinery.com

805 901-0213 www.SEEAG.org

6855 Santa Rosa Rd., Buellton, 805 688-7921 www.LafondWinery.com Lafond Winery & Vineyards is the sister label to neighbor Santa Barbara Winery. With the first grapes belonging to Lafond Vineyards being planting in 1962, owner Pierre Lafond established the first commercial winery in Santa Barbara County. The Lafond label specializes in Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah. Visit the tasting room in the Sta. Rita Hills 11am–5pm daily.

Margerum & Barden Tasting Room at the Hotel Californian, corner Winery Tasting Room, 59 Industrial Way, Buellton; 805 686-8500 www.MargerumWines.com Enjoy wine tasting, order from their menu and stock up on provisions at the combined Margerum and Barden Tasting Room across the street from Hotel Californian in the Santa Barbara Funk Zone. Indoor and

3010 Roblar Ave., Santa Ynez 805 686-2603 www.RoblarWinery.com

Santa Barbara Winery is the oldest winery in Santa Barbara County. Established in 1962, Pierre Lafond pioneered the commercial vineyard business under the Santa Barbara Winery label in the Sta. Rita Hills. The winery and tasting room is located in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone and is one of the only fully operating wineries of its kind in the urban district. Tasting room open 11am–6pm daily.

Since 2008, the nonprofit Students for Eco-Education & Agriculture (SEEAG) has impacted the lives of over 60,000 students, offering a variety of agricultural education programs free of charge, including the annual Santa Barbara County Farm Day, held this year on September 18. Their mission is to educate students and the greater community about the farm origins of our food and agriculture’s contribution to our nutritional well-being.

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2022 | 63

AS

T

THE

L

Summer’s

Don’t-Miss Dish Words and photos by Liz Dodder

Presqu’ile’s Mezze Picnic At Presqu’ile Vineyard & Winery, food and wine are symbiotic. This modern winery was established in 2007, specializing in cool-climate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah from Santa Barbara County. The name means “almost an island” in French (pronounced press-KEEL) and was named after a property the family lost to Hurricane Katrina, as well as perfectly describing this sheltered oasis in Santa Maria Valley.

Presqu’ile’s 200-acre property on Clark Avenue contains estate vineyards, gardens, winery buildings and spaces, a pond and a one-acre farm. The farm is the epicenter of the menu at Presqu’ile, helmed by French-born Chef Julie Simon, who’s been running the kitchen since late 2019.

Chef Simon has an accomplished resume spanning a decade throughout the Central Coast, where she has worked with acclaimed kitchens, events and farmto-table endeavors. Having developed an obsession with growing her own food, she began planting and managing a small farm plot, to create food for herself and dinner events for friends.

Presqu’ile’s belief in a “sense of place” plus the promise of her own acre of land to farm undoubtedly lured Simon to the winery. Creating a permaculture garden and growing produce sustainably and organically is a perfect fit for the in-house chef, where she creates locally sourced dinners and menus to pair with the wines.

Since the garden’s inception, Simon has worked it herself, propagating seeds in her home, planting and weeding and even setting gopher traps. Her favorite part of the job is working the garden each morning, picking garnishes for that day’s dishes and being in the dirt.

This labor of love pays off in the fresh simplicity of her dishes in the Mezze Picnic served alongside the current wine flight. With Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and Californian influences, Simon’s picnic spread is more than just appetizers paired with wine; it thoughtfully dishes up all the flavors of this land and the season.

The Mezze Picnic consists of five or six small dishes, tailored to the season. Summer’s offering includes gazpacho made with the garden’s overripe and notso-perfect-looking tomatoes and other produce, which changes with the seasons.

To make Simon’s Summer Gazpacho, gather together the ripest fresh tomatoes; shallots or white onion; garlic and a little watermelon (or stone fruit). It’s OK if the produce is overripe and/or bruised. Cut the tomatoes, shallots/onions and garlic in half, and mix with salt, olive oil, sherry vinegar and lemon zest. Let this sit and macerate 1– 4 hours on your countertop. Blend the whole mixture in a high-speed blender, slowly adding fresh olive oil for a few minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with basil and edible flowers.

Liz Dodder is a drinker, eater and traveler who has eaten five kinds of foie gras in one day. She’s also a blogger, writer, photographer, recipe developer, web designer, social media maven and Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW). www.CaliCoastWineCountry.com

64 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2022

2009

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Spring 2009 / Number 1

SANTA BARBARA Celebrating the Food Culture of Santa Barbara County

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Summer 2009 / Number 2

SANTA BARBARA

Celebrating the Food Culture of Santa Barbara County

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Fall 2009 / Number 3

SANTA BARBARA Celebrating the Food Culture of Santa Barbara County

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Winter 2009 / Number 4

SANTA BARBARA Celebrating the Food Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE FIVE • SPRING 2010

SANTA BARBARA

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Heirloom Heaven Abalone Palmina Winery The Hidden Promise of Suburbia Food from the Hearth

Local Honeybees Culinary Bootcamp Edible Landscape Thanksgiving Santa Barbara Channel Seafood

Chocolate: From Cacao Bean to Confection Salmon A Seasonal Stew Endless Pastabilities

Eggs Backyard Chickens Beekeeping Salt: The Essential Ingredient Artichokes Community-Supported Agriculture

Member of Edible Communities

Member of Edible Communities

Member of Edible Communities

Member of Edible Communities

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

Celebrating the Food Culture of Santa Barbara County

Celebrating the Food Culture of Santa Barbara County

Grass-Fed Beef In the Kitchen with Bradley Ogden What the Kids Are Growing Canning Farmers Market

Wine Caves: Down to Earth Stone Fruit Recycling Edible Flowers

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

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ISSUE 8 • WINTER 2010 MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

SANTA BARBARA

Celebrating the Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE 9 • SPRING 2011 MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

SANTA BARBARA

Celebrating the Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE 10 • SUMMER 2011 MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

SANTA BARBARA Celebrating the Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE 11 • FALL 2011 MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

SANTA BARBARA Celebrating the Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE 12 • WINTER 2011 MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

SANTA BARBARA Celebrating the Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE 13 • SPRING 2012

Where’s the

An Interview with

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Winter Blossoms

Scoop?

One of TIME magazine’s “100 most influential people of 2010” talks to us about his garden, cooking and his upcoming lecture in Santa Barbara

Croissants!

Unsung Heroes

Bob and Ellie Patterson’s Artisanal Gelato and Sorbet

Wild Yeast Bread Profound Pairings A Passion for Spices

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Salt of the Sea Sorrel and Rhubarb The Rituals of a Meal

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Pistachio Harvest La Huerta Mission Gardens Farmer to Table

Biodynamics

Nothing Like Chocolate The Lazy Gardener

edible

edible

ISSUE 16 • WINTER 2012

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

edible

ISSUE 17 • SPRING 2013

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

edible

ISSUE 18 • SUMMER 2013

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

EAT DRINK

Giannfranco’s Trattoria Culinary Inspirations Edible Mushrooms

For Love of Pinot The Art in Artisan Bread Zaca University

Santa Maria-Style Barbecue Lompoc Beans Ice Cream

Regenerative Earth Farms Aquaponics Exotic Edible Trees

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

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ISSUE 22 • SUMMER 2014

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE 23 • FALL 2014

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE 24 • WINTER 2014

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Santa Barbara

The COOKS Issue

The Art of Small Farming Tending Henry The Perfect Salad

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

5 YEAR

Santa Barbara

edible

ISSUE 26 • SUMMER 2015

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Anniversary Issue

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

edible

ISSUE 25 • SPRING 2015

ISSUE 21 • SPRING 2014

Santa Barbara

Guerilla Brewing and Feral Fermentation

WINE & BREAD ISSUE

Funk Zone

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ISSUE 20 • WINTER 2013

ISSUE

COOKS ISSUE MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

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MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

LIVING BEER

LOCAL T HE BE L LY OF T HE

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ISSUE 19 • FALL 2013

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

THE

Sauvignon Blanc Coffee: Grown in Goleta Eating Acorns

Eating in Los Alamos Market Walk with Patricia Perfect Picnics

Diving for California Gold Fish on Friday Fisherman’s Market MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

ISSUE 15 • FALL 2012

Santa Barbara

Lompoc Wine Ghetto Culinary Lavender Pasta and Water

Eating Daylilies

Almonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend

of the Harvest

Renaud’s Patisserie & Bistro

ISSUE 14 • SUMMER 2012

Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Michael Pollan

ISSUE SEVEN • FALL 2010

SANTA BARBARA

SANTA BARBARA

Celebrating the Food Culture of Santa Barbara County

Sustainable Seafood Fairview Gardens A Culinary Journey The Pod Squad Whitcraft Winery

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ISSUE SIX • SUMMER 2010

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE 27 • FALL 2015

ISSUE 28 • WINTER 2015

Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

EAT DRINK

LOCAL ISSUE

The

EAT DRINK

COOKS

LOCAL The New Solvang The Thrill of the Grill All Aboard to Carpinteria

The Season for Persimmons Eating Lotus Santa Maria Agriculture

Fine Chocolate Solvang’s Kringle and Crown Do Your Kids Cook?

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

Strawberries: A Love Story The Pig Next Door Decorative Eggs

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

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ISSUE 29 • SPRING 2016

Issue

The COOKS Issue

ISSUE

edible

ISSUE 30 • SUMMER 2016

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Gaviota Wine Without Water Home Off The Range Grunion

The Shrimping Life Unleashing the Yeast Savoring Wildlands

E AT • D R I N K • R E A D • T H I N K

E AT • D R I N K • R E A D • T H I N K

E AT • D R I N K • R E A D • T H I N K

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ISSUE 31 • FALL 2016

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE 32 • WINTER 2017

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

E AT • D R I N K • R E A D • T H I N K

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ISSUE 33 • SPRING 2017

Interwoven: Santa Maria In Search of Masa Chef Justin West

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ISSUE 34 • SUMMER 2017

Santa Barbara

ISSUE 35 • FALL 2017

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Harvest & Holiday

Harvest

& Holiday

ISSUE

ISSUE

Building

SANTA BARBARA COUNTY

Farm

ISSUE

Food

GUIDE

Communities

SPECIAL INSERT

The Tiny Mess A Big Taste of a Small Town No Cider House Rules

Santa Maria AVA The Channel Islands Eyes On Hives Girls Inc.

The Papaya Man Santa Ynez AVA Cottage Industry

The Fervor for Fermentation Year of the Rooster The Apiary

A Passion for Peaches Happy Canyon AVA The Beer Trail

A Sicilian Christmas Reverie Loyal to the Soil Fairview Gardens

E AT • D R I N K • R E A D • T H I N K

L O YA L T O L O C A L

L O YA L T O L O C A L

L O YA L T O L O C A L

L O YA L T O L O C A L

L O YA L T O L O C A L

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ISSUE 36 • WINTER 18

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Bringing the Homestead

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ISSUE 37 • SPRING 18

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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• SPRING ISSUE ISSUE 38 •37 SUMMER 2018 18

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE ISSUE 37 39 •• SPRING FALL 2018 18

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE 40 • WINTER 2019

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE ISSUE 40 41 •• WINTER SPRING 2019

S anta B arbara Santa Barbara

ISSUE 42 • SUMMER 2019

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

The

Home

ISSUE

Wine Issue

ISSUE

Ten Glas s es Celebr ating Ten Year s

In Search of

Local Sea Renewal and Rebuilding

Renewal and Rebuilding

Cookbooks: Culinary Journeys Teach Kids to Cook Blue Sky Center in Cuyama

A Love Letter to Los Olivos From Grape to Great Winemaking Takes a Journey

Barbara County in this Issue A Love LetterSanta to Los Olivos From Grape Farm to GreatGuide Winemaking Takes a Journey

L O YA L T O L O C A L

L O YA L T O L O C A L

L O YA L T O L O C A L L O YA L T O L O C A L

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ISSUE 43 • FALL 2019

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

edible

Harvest & Holiday ISSUE

San Ysidro Ranch

Urchin

ISSUE 44 • WINTER 2020

Santa Barbara & Wine Country

Meyer Lemon Tart at the Stonehouse

Heirloom Green Corn Frittata and Her Cousins Earth to Table Mistaken Identity

Funghi e la Cucina Italiana Talking Shiitake Jetsetter of the Vines Comfort Food

L O YA L T O L O C A L

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ISSUE 45 • SUMMER/FALL 2020

Santa Barbara & Wine Country

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T E N

A N N I V E R S A R Y

/

L O Y A L

T O

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ISSUE 46 • WINTER 2020 –21

Santa Barbara & Wine Country

Y E A R

L O C A L

T E N

& Wine Country

Y E A R

L A T OR LYO C/A L L O Y A L A N N I VL O E YA R S

T O

Wishful Recycling Wine Trailblazers A Beer in Every Kitchen Noey Turk

L O C A L

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ISSUE 47 • SUMMER 2021

Santa Barbara

®

Heirloom Green Corn Frittata and Her Cousins Earth to Table Mistaken Identity

T E N

Y E A R

A N N I V E R S A R Y

/

L O Y A L

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ISSUE 48 • FALL 2021

Santa Barbara & Wine Country

®

T O

L O C A L

ISSUE 50 • SPRING 2022

®

The

Sustainability Issue

Nourish & Nurture

Issue

I S SUE

I Sea Olives Drinking the Landscape Everything But the Bird Dry Hopped Wine T E N

Y E A R

A N N I V E R S A R Y

/

L O Y A L

T O

L O C A L

Julia Child in Santa Barbara A Trio of Chef Memories Demystifying the Sommelier L O Y A L

T O

L O C A L

Julia Child in Santa Barbara A Trio of Chef Memories Demystifying the Sommelier LOYAL

TO

LOCAL

Gather. Nurture. Feed. Repeat. From Garden to Breadboard Baking Bread with Wild Yeast A Taste of Macedonia in Los Alamos Building a Better Meat System L O Y A L

T O

L O C A L

Sustainability & Wine

Finding Solutions to Food Waste

Rosé: Life Seen Through Pink Colored Glasses L O YA L

T O

L O C A L

The Birds & The Beef Day Trippin’

Purple Urchin Pearl Munak Rethinking Hunger The Sea Cellar Nurturing Nature Food Security and Cooking from Scratch Nine New Santa Barbara County Wines L O YA L

T O

L O C A L

ISSUE 49 • WINTER 2021–22

Cooks

Brunch Home Winemaking Brings Community Together Compost Isn’t Sexy, and Yet… Alcohol-free Alternatives to Wine for the Sober Curious Crowd Herbacious L O YA L

T O

L O C A L

2022

Thank you Santa Barbara County for all your support!

If you would like to be in our Fall 2022 issue, please email us at ads@EdibleSantaBarbara.com

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COME FOR THE WINE , STAY FOR THE OCEAN VIEW

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J. Wilkes Tasting Room